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diff --git a/12296-h/12296-h.htm b/12296-h/12296-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..10439f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/12296-h/12296-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,14159 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + Camps and Trails in China, by Roy Chapman Andrews—A Project Gutenberg eBook + </title> + <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover_epub.jpg" /> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +p { + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} +@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + border-collapse: collapse; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; +} /* page numbers */ + +.tdl {text-align: left;} +.tdc {text-align: center;} +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +h1, h2, .caption2, .caption3, .caption4 {font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent:0;} +h1 {font-size:2.00em; margin-top: 1.5em;} +h2 {font-size:1.50em; margin-top: 1.0em;} +.caption2 {font-size:1.50em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 1.0em;} +.caption3 {font-size:1.25em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 0.5em;} +.caption3nb {font-size:1.25em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 0.5em;} +.caption4 {font-size:1.125em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 0.5em;} +.pmt4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.pmb4 {margin-bottom: 4em;} +.smaller {font-size: 0.8em;} +.larger {font-size: 1.25em;} +.blockquot p {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; font-size: 0.75em; text-align: justify;} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} + +.fig_caption { + font-size: 0.75em; +} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poetry-container {text-align: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} +.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} +/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ +.poetry {display: inline-block;} /* */ +.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} +.poetry .verse {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em;} +/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ +@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } +.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:smaller; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; } + + +/* Poetry indents */ +.poetry .indent0 {text-indent: -3em;} +.poetry .indent1 {text-indent: -2.5em;} + + + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12296 ***</div> + ***</div> + + + + +<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 287px;"> + <img src="images/cover.png" width="287" height="439" alt="Camps and Trails in China, by Roy Chapman Andrews" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">- i -</span></p> + + + + + + +<h1>CAMPS AND TRAILS<br /> + +IN CHINA</h1> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">- ii -</span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" id="frontispiece" style="width: 250px;"> + <img src="images/frontispiece.png" width="219" height="591" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp on the Snow Mountain +at an Altitude of 12,000 Feet</span></div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">- iii -</span></p> + +<h1 class="nobreak" id="CAMPS_AND_TRAILS">CAMPS AND TRAILS<br /> +IN CHINA</h1> +</div> + +<p class="tdc">A NARRATIVE OF EXPLORATION, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT<br /> +IN LITTLE-KNOWN CHINA</p> + + +<h2>ROY CHAPMAN ANDREWS, M.A.</h2> + +<p class="tdc smaller">ASSOCIATE CURATOR OF MAMMALS IN THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AND<br /> +LEADER OF THE MUSEUM'S ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION OF 1916-1917;<br /> +FELLOW NEW YORK ACADEMY OF SCIENCES; CORRESPONDING MEMBER<br /> +ZOÖLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; MEMBER OF THE BIOLOGICAL<br /> +SOCIETY OF WASHINGTON; AUTHOR "WHALEHUNTING<br /> +WITH GUN AND CAMERA"</p> + +<p class="tdc">AND</p> + +<h2>YVETTE BORUP ANDREWS</h2> + +<p class="tdc smaller">PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="logo" style="width: 59px;"> + <img src="images/logo.png" width="59" height="72" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="tdc">ILLUSTRATED</p> + + +<p class="tdc larger">D. APPLETON AND COMPANY<br /> +NEW YORK<span style="letter-spacing: 2em;"> </span>LONDON<br /> +1918</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">- iv -</span></p> + +<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc smcap">Copyright, 1918, by<br /> +D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</p> + + + +<p class="tdc pmt4 pmb4">Printed in the United States of America</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">- v -</span></p> + + +<p class="tdc pmt4">THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO</p> + +<p class="tdc larger">PRESIDENT HENRY FAIRFIELD OSBORN</p> + +<p class="tdc pmb4">AS AN EXPRESSION OF GRATITUDE<br /> +AND ADMIRATION</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">- vii -</span></p> + + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">"Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;</div> + <div class="verse indent1">Let us journey to a lonely land I know.</div> + <div class="verse indent1">There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to guide us,</div> + <div class="verse indent1">And the Wild is calling, calling ... let us go."</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="tdr">—<i>Service</i>.<br /></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">- viii -</span></p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">- ix -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> +</div> + + +<p>The object of this book is to present a popular narrative +of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum +of Natural History to China in 1916-17. Details of a purely +scientific nature have been condensed, or eliminated, and emphasis +has been placed upon our experiences with the strange +natives and animals of a remote and little known region in the +hope that the book will be interesting to the general reader.</p> + +<p>The scientific reputation of the Expedition will rest upon +the technical reports of its work which will be published in due +course by the American Museum of Natural History. To +these reports we would refer those readers who desire more +complete information concerning the results of our researches. +At the time the manuscript of this volume was sent to press +the collections were still undergoing preparation and the study +of the different groups had just begun.</p> + +<p>Although the book has been largely written by the senior +author, his collaborator has contributed six chapters marked +with her initials; all the illustrations are from her photographs +and continual use has been made of her daily journals; she has, +moreover, materially assisted in reference work and in numerous +other ways.</p> + +<p>The information concerning the relationships and distribution +of the native tribes of Yün-nan is largely drawn from +the excellent reference work by Major H. R. Davies and we +have followed his spelling of Chinese names.</p> + +<p>Parts of the book have been published as separate articles +in the <i>American Museum Journal</i>, <i>Harper's Magazine</i>, and +<i>Asia</i> and to the editors of the above publications our acknowledgments +are due.</p> + +<p>That the Expedition obtained a very large and representative +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">- x -</span> +collection of small mammals is owing in a great measure +to the efforts of Mr. Edmund Heller, our companion in the +field. He worked tirelessly in the care and preservation of the +specimens, and the fact that they reached New York in excellent +condition is, in itself, the best testimony to the skill +and thoroughness with which they were prepared.</p> + +<p>Our Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, contributed largely +to the success of the Expedition. His faithful and enthusiastic +devotion to our interests and his tact and resourcefulness +under trying circumstances won our lasting gratitude and affectionate +regard.</p> + +<p>The nineteen months during which we were in Asia are among +the most memorable of our lives and we wish to express our +deepest gratitude to the Trustees of the American Museum of +Natural History, and especially to President Henry Fairfield +Osborn, whose enthusiastic endorsement and loyal support +made the Expedition possible. Director F. A. Lucas, Dr. J. A. +Allen and Mr. George H. Sherwood were unfailing in furthering +our interests, and to them we extend our hearty thanks.</p> + +<p>To the following patrons, who by their generous contributions +materially assisted in the financing of the Expedition, we +wish to acknowledge our great personal indebtedness as well +as that of the Museum; Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer, +Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, Messrs. George Bowdoin, +Lincoln Ellsworth, James B. Ford, Henry C. Frick, Childs +Frick, and Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline.</p> + +<p>The Expedition received many courtesies while in the field +from the following gentlemen, without whose coöperation it +would have been impossible to have carried on the work successfully. +Their services have been referred to individually in +subsequent parts of the book: The Director of the Bureau of +Foreign Affairs of the Province of Yün-nan; M. Georges +Chemin Dupontès, Director de l'Exploration de la Compagnie +Française des Chemins de Fer de l'Indochine et du Yün-nan, +Hanoi, Tonking; M. Henry Wilden, Consul de France, Shanghai; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">- xi -</span> +M. Kraemer, Consul de France, Hongkong; Mr. Howard +Page, Standard Oil Co., Yün-nan Fu; the Hon. Paul Reinsch, +Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the +Chinese Republic, Mr. J. V. A. McMurray, First Secretary of +the American Legation, Peking; Mr. H. G. Evans, British-American +Tobacco Co., Hongkong; the Rev. William Hanna, +Ta-li Fu; the Rev. A. Kok, Li-chiang Fu; Ralph Grierson, +Esq., Teng-yueh; Herbert Goffe, Esq., H. B. M. Consul General, +Yün-nan Fu; Messrs. C. R. Kellogg, and H. W. Livingstone, +Foochow, China; the General Passenger Agent, Canadian +Pacific Railroad Company, Hongkong; and the Rev. H. R. +Caldwell, Yen-ping, who has read parts of this book in manuscript +and who through his criticisms has afforded us the +benefit of his long experience in China.</p> + +<p>To Miss Agnes F. Molloy and Miss Anna Katherine Berger +we wish to express our appreciation of editorial and other assistance +during the preparation of the volume.</p> + +<p class="tdr"><span class="smcap">Roy Chapman Andrews</span><br /> + <span class="smcap">Yvette Borup Andrews</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Justamere Home</span>,<br /> + <i>Lawrence Park,<br /> + Bronxville, N. Y.</i><br /> +<i>May 10, 1917.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">- xiii -</span></p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> +</div> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER I</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Object of the Expedition</p> + +<p class="tdr smaller">PAGE</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The importance of the scientific exploration of Central +Asia—The region which the Asiatic Zoölogical +Expedition investigated—Personnel of the +Expedition—Equipment—Applicants for positions upon the +Expedition</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1-6</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER II</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">China in Turmoil</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Yuan Shi-kai—Plot to become emperor of China—The Rebellion—Our +arrival in Peking—Passports for Fukien Province—Admiral +von Hintze, the German Minister—<i>En +route</i> to Shanghai—Death of Yuan Shi-kai</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">7-14</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER III</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Up the Min River</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Arrival at Foochow—Foochow—We leave for Yen-ping—The +Min River—Our first night in a <i>sampan</i>—Miss Mabel +Hartford—Brigands at Yuchi—Yen-ping—Trapping at +Yen-ping</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">15-25</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER IV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">A Bat Cave in the Big Ravine</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The Temple in the Big Ravine—Hunting serow—A bat apartment house</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">26-81</a></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">- xiv -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER V</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Yen-ping Rebellion</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>A message from Mr. Caldwell—Refugees from Yen-ping—Situation +in the city—Fighting on Monday morning—Wounded +men at the hospital—We do Red Cross work—More +fighting—A Chinese puzzle—The missionaries save +the city—The narrow escape of a young Chinese—The +mission cook—Return to Foochow</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">82-48</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Hunting the Great Invisible</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Tiger lairs—Mr. Caldwell's method of hunting—His first +tiger—Habits of tigers—Experiences with the Great +Invisible—Killing a man-eater—Chinese superstitions—Hunting +in the lair</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">44-58</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Blue Tiger</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Arriving at Lung-tao—The blue tiger—Mr. Caldwell's first +view of the beast—The lair in the Long Ravine—Bad luck +with the tiger—A meeting in the dark—Ling-suik monastery—Life +at the temple—Fukien Province as a collecting ground</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">54-66</a></p> + + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Women of China</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Schools for girls—Position of women—The Confucian rules—Woman's +life in the home—Foot binding—Early marriage—A +Chinese wedding</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">67-73</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">- xv -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER IX</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Voyaging to Yün-nan</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Outfitting in Hongkong—Food—Guns—Cameras—<i>En route</i> +to Tonking—The Island of Hainan—We engage a cook +at Paik-hoi—Arrival in Haiphong—Loss of our Ammunition—Hanoi—The +railroad to Yün-nan Fu—Yün-nan—The +Chinese Foreign Office endorses our plans</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">74-83</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER X</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">On the Road to Ta-li Fu</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Oar caravan—The Yün-nan pack saddle—Temple camps—Chinese +<i>mafus</i>—Roads—Country—Ignorance of a Chinese +scholar—New mammals—Village life—Opium +growing—An opium scandal—Goitre—The Chinese +"Mountain schooner"—Horses—Miss Morgan—Brigands—Our +guard of soldiers</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">84-98</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Ta-li Fu</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Hsia-kuan—Summer temperature—Lake—Graves—Pagodas—Mr. +H. G. Evans—Foreigners of Ta-li Fu—Chinese +mandarins—Mammals at Ta-li—Caravan horses and +mules—The cook becomes ill</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">99-106</a></p> + + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Li-chiang, and the "Temple of the Flowers"</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Traveling to Li-chiang—Our entrance into the city—The +surprise of the foreigners—The temple—Excellent collecting—Small +mammals—The Moso natives—Customs—The +Snow Mountain—Baron Haendel-Mazzetti</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">107-113</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">- xvi -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Camping in the Clouds</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Moso hunters—Primitive guns—Crossbows and poisoned +arrows—Dogs—porcupine—New mammals—We find a +new camp on the mountain</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">114-119</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The First Goral</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Killed near camp—A sacrifice to the God of the Hunt—Small +mammals—The second goral</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">120-125</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">More Gorals</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Gorals almost invisible—Heller shoots a kid—Collecting material +for a Museum group—A splendid hunt—Two +gorals—A crested muntjac</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">126-188</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Snow Mountain Temple</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The first illness in camp—Serow—Death of the leading dog—Rain—Two +more serows—Lolos—Non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">184-189</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Gorals and Serows</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Relationship—Appearance of the serow—Habits—Gorals</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">140-148</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">- xvii -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The "White Water"</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Our new camp—serow—We go to Li-chiang—A burial ceremony—Ancestor +worship</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">140-156</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIX</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Across the Yangtze Gorge</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Traveling to the river—Inaccuracy of the Chinese—First view +of the gorge—The Taku ferry—Cares</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">157-163</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XX</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Through Unmapped Country</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Along the rim of the gorge—A beautiful camp at Habala—New +mammals—Photographic work—Phete village—Stupid +inhabitants—Strange natives—The "Windy Camp"—Hotenfa</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">164-171</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Traveling Toward Tibet</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>A hard climb—Our highest camp—A Lolo village—Thanksgiving +with the Lolos</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">172-177</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Stalking Tibetans with a Camera</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Caravans—Tibetans—Dress—Appearance—Photographing +frightened natives—Reason for suspicion</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">178-181</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">- xviii -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Westward to the Mekong River</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Snow—Photographing natives—The Snow Mountain again—The +Shih-ku ferry—Cranes—"Brahminy ducks"—A +well-deserved beating—Chinese soldiers</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">182-189</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Down the Mekong Valley</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Arrival at Wei-hsi—The Mekong River—Lutzu natives—Difficulties +in the valley—An unexpected goral—Christmas—The +salt wells—A snow covered pass—Duck shooting—Return +to Ta-li Fu</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">190-201</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Missionaries We Have Known</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Our observations on work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan +Provinces—Mode of living—Servants—Voluntary +exile—Medical missionaries—A missionary's experience +with the brigands at Yuchi</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">202-211</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Chinese New Year at Yung-chang</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Traveling to Yung-chang—New Year's customs—Inhabitants +of the city—Foot-binding—Caves—Water buffaloes—Chinese +cow-caravans—Yung-chang mentioned by Marco Polo</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">212-222</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">- xix -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Traveling Toward the Tropics</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Shih-tien plain—Curious inhabitants of the city—A tropical +valley at Ma-po-lo—"A little more far"—A splendid +camp—Many new mammals—Preparing specimens +Sambur—Trapping</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">223-232</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Meng-ting: a Village of Many Tongues</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The first Shan Village—Priscilla and John Alden—Meng-ting—The +Shan mandarin—Young priests—The market—Photographing +under difficulties—Suppression of opium growing</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">233-343</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIX</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Camping on the Nam-ting River</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>A beautiful camp—The "Dying Rabbit"—Sambur hunting—Jungle +fowl—Civets—Pole cats and other animals</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">244-251</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXX</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Monkey Hunting</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Strange calls in the jangle—Our first gibbons—Relationship +and habits—Langurs and baboons—A night in the jungle</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">252-259</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Shans of the Burma Border</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>An unfriendly chief—Honest natives—Houses at Nam-ka—Tattooing—Shan +tribe—Dress</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">260-263</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">- xx -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Prisoners of War in Burma</p> + +<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The mythical Ma-li-ling—Across the frontier into Burma—The +<i>mafus</i> rebel—Ma-li-pa—Captain Clive—Guarding +the border—Life at Ma-li-pa</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">264-272</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Hunting Peacocks on the Salween River</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The Valley at Changlung—The ferry—Peacocks—The stalker +stalked—Habits of peafowls</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">273-280</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXIV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">The Gibbons of Ho-mu-shu</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Climbing out of the Salween Valley—A Shan Village—Ho-mu-shu—Camping +on a mountain pass—Gibbons—An exciting +hunt and a narrow escape—Habits of the "hoolock"</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV">281-290</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXV</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Teng-yueh: a Link with Civilization</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Tai-ping-pu—Flying squirrels—Lisos—A bat cave—Mail—Teng-yueh—Mr. +Ralph Grierson—Tibetan bear cubs</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV">291-297</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVI</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">A Big Game Paradise</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Gorals at Hui-yao—Deer—Splendid hunts</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI">298-304</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxi">- xxi -</span></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Serow and Sambur</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Monkeys at Hai-yao—Muntjacs—A new serow—We move +camp to Wa-tien—A fine sambur</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVII">305-314</a></p> + + +<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVIII</p> + +<p class="caption3 smcap">Last Days in China</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Return to Teng-yueh—Packing the specimens—Results of +the Expedition—On the road to Bhamo—The chair +coolies—Burma <i>vs.</i> China—In civilisation again—Farewell +to the Orient</p> +</div> + +<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVIII">315-322</a></p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiii">- xxiii -</span></p> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +</div> + + +<table summary="LOI"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr smaller">FACING<br />PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Our camp on the Snow Mountain at an altitude of 12,000 feet</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Yvette Borup Andrews with a pet Yün-nan squirrel</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4a">4</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Edmund Heller</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4b">4</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Roy Chapman Andrews and a goral</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4c">4</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Chinese hunter and a muntjac</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f28a">28</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Brigands killed in the Yen-ping Rebellion</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f28b">28</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The Ling-suik monastery</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f62a">62</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A priest of Ling-suik</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f62b">62</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Chinese mother with her children</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f70a">70</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Chinese women of the coolie class with bound feet</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f70b">70</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Cormorant fishers on the lake at Yün-nan Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f84a">84</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Our camp at Chou Chou on the way to Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f84b">84</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The Pagodas at Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f96a">96</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The dead of China</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f96b">96</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The residence of Rev. William J. Hanna at Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f102a">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The gate and main street of Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f102b">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">One of the pagodas at Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f108a">108</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Moso herder</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f112a">112</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Moso woman</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f112b">112</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The Snow Mountain</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f116a">116</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A cheek gun used by one of our hunters</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f118a">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The first goral killed on the Snow Mountain</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f118b">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Hotenfa, one of oar Moso hunters, bringing in a goral + <span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiv">- xxiv -</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f120a">120</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Another Moso hunter with a porcupine</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f120b">120</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A typical goral cliff on the Snow Mountain</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f132a">132</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A serow killed on the Snow Mountain</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f140a">140</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The head of a serow</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f140b">140</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The "white water"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f152a">152</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Liso hunter carrying a flying squirrel</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f162a">162</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The chief of our Lolo hunters</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f162b">162</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Lolo village</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f174a">174</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Lolos seeing their photographs for the first time</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f174b">174</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Travelers in the Mekong valley</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f180a">180</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Two Tibetans</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f180b">180</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The gorge of the Yangtze River</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f184a">184</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A quiet curve of the Mekong River</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f190a">190</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The temple in which we camped at Ta-li Fu</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f200a">200</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A crested muntjac</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f200b">200</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The south gate at Yung-chang</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f210a">210</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Chinese bride returning to her mother's home at New Year's</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f210b">210</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Chinese patriarch</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f224a">224</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Young China</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f224b">224</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Shan village</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f234a">234</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Shan woman spinning</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f234b">234</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Kachin woman in the market at Meng-ting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f240a">240</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">One of our Shan hunters with two yellow gibbons</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f240b">240</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Our camp on the Nam-ting River</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f246a">246</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The Shan village at Nam-ka</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f246b">246</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The head of a gibbon killed on the Nam-ting River</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f254a">254</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A civet</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f254b">254</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Shan girl<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxv">- xxv -</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f260a">260</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A Shan boy</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f260b">260</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A suspension bridge</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f288a">288</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Mrs. Andrews feeding one of our bear cubs</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f288b">288</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A sambur killed at Wa-tien</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f302a">302</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The head of a muntjac</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f302b">302</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">A mountain chair</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f312a">312</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">The waterfall at Teng-yueh</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f312b">312</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Map I. The red line indicates the travels of the Expedition</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#map_i_sm">318</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Map II. Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#map_ii_sm">320</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">- 1 -</span></p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h1 class="nobreak">CAMPS AND TRAILS<br /> +IN CHINA</h1> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> earliest remains of primitive man probably will +be found somewhere in the vast plateau of Central +Asia, north of the Himalaya Mountains. From this +region came the successive invasions that poured into +Europe from the east, to India from the north, and to +China from the west; the migration route to North +America led over the Bering Strait and spread fanwise +south and southeast to the farthest extremity of South +America. The Central Asian plateau at the beginning +of the Pleistocene was probably less arid than it is today +and there is reason to believe that this general region +was not only the distributing center of man but also of +many of the forms of mammalian life which are now +living in other parts of the world. For instance, our +American moose, the wapiti or elk. Rocky Mountain +sheep, the so-called mountain goat, and other animals +are probably of Central Asian origin.</p> + +<p>Doubtless there were many contributing causes to +the extensive wanderings of primitive tribes, but as +they were primarily hunters, one of the most important +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">- 2 -</span> +must have been the movements of the game upon which +they lived. Therefore the study of the early human +races is, necessarily, closely connected with, and dependent +upon, a knowledge of the Central Asian mammalian +life and its distribution. No systematic palæontological, +archæological, or zoölogical study of this region on +a large scale has ever been attempted, and there is no +similar area of the inhabited surface of the earth about +which so little is known.</p> + +<p>The American Museum of Natural History hopes in +the near future to conduct extensive explorations in +this part of the world along general scientific lines. +The country itself and its inhabitants, however, present +unusual obstacles to scientific research. Not only is the +region one of vast intersecting mountain ranges, the +greatest of the earth, but the climate is too cold in winter +to permit of continuous work. The people have a +natural dislike for foreigners, and the political events +of the last half century have not tended to decrease +their suspicions.</p> + +<p>It is possible to overcome such difficulties, but the +plans for extensive research must be carefully prepared. +One of the most important steps is the sending +out of preliminary expeditions to gain a general knowledge +of the natives and fauna and of the conditions to +be encountered. For the first reconnaissance, which was +intended to be largely a mammalian survey, the Asiatic +Zoölogical Expedition left New York in March, 1916.</p> + +<p>Its destination was Yün-nan, a province in southwestern +China. This is one of the least known parts +of the Chinese Republic and, because of its southern +latitude and high mountain systems, the climate and +faunal range is very great. It is about equal in size to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">- 3 -</span> +the state of California and topographically might be +likened to the ocean in a furious gale, for the greater +part of its surface has been thrown into vast mountain +waves which divide and cross one another in hopeless +confusion.</p> + +<p>Yün-nan is bordered on the north by Tibet and +S'suchuan, on the west by Burma, on the south by Tonking, +and on the east by Kwei-chau Province. Faunistically +the entire northwestern part of Yün-nan is essentially +Tibetan, and the plateaus and mountain peaks +range from altitudes of 8,000 feet to 20,000 feet above +sea level. In the south and west along the borders of +Burma and Tonking, in the low fever-stricken valleys, +the climate is that of the mid-tropics, and the native +life, as well as the fauna and flora, is of a totally different +type from that found in the north.</p> + +<p>The natives of Yün-nan are exceptionally interesting. +There are about thirty non-Chinese tribes in the +province, some of whom, such as the Shans and Lolos, +represent the aboriginal inhabitants of China, and it is +safe to say that in no similar area of the world is there +such a variety of language and dialects as in this region.</p> + +<p>Although the main work of the Expedition was to be +conducted in Yün-nan, we decided to spend a short time +in Fukien Province, China, and endeavor to obtain a +specimen of the so-called "blue tiger" which has been +seen twice by the Reverend Harry R. Caldwell, a missionary +and amateur naturalist, who has done much +hunting in the vicinity of Foochow.</p> + +<p>The white members of the first Asiatic Zoölogical +Expedition included Mr. Edmund Heller, my wife +(Yvette Borup Andrews) and myself. A Chinese +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">- 4 -</span> +interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, with five native assistants and +ten muleteers, completed the personnel.</p> + +<p>Mr. Heller is a collector of wide experience. His +early work, which was done in the western United States +and the Galapagos Islands, was followed by many years +of collecting in Mexico, Alaska, South America, and +Africa. He first visited British East Africa with Mr. +Carl E. Akeley, next with ex-President Theodore +Roosevelt, and again with Mr. Paul J. Rainey. During +the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition Mr. Heller devoted +most of his time to the gathering and preparation +of small mammals. He joined our party late in July +in China.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Andrews was the photographer of the Expedition. +She had studied photography as an amateur in +Germany, France, and Italy, as well as in New York, +and had devoted especial attention to the taking of +photographs in natural colors. Such work requires +infinite care and patience, but the results are well worth +the efforts expended.</p> + +<p>Wu Hung-tao is a native of Foochow, China, and +studied English at the Anglo-Chinese College in that +city. He lived for some time in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan, +in the employ of Mr. F. W. Carey, Commissioner of +Customs, and not only speaks mandarin Chinese but +also several native dialects. He acted as interpreter, +head "boy," and general field manager. My own work +was devoted mainly to the direction of the Expedition +and the hunting of big game.</p> + +<table summary="plates"> +<tr> + <td><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4a" style="width: 178px;"> + <img src="images/img_f4a.png" width="178" height="299" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Yvette Borup Andrews + with a Pet Yün-nan Squirrel</span></div> + </div></td> + <td><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4b" style="width: 171px;"> + <img src="images/img_f4b.png" width="171" height="298" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Edmund Heller</span></div> + </div></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="2"><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4c" style="width: 362px;"> + <img src="images/img_f4c.png" width="362" height="288" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Roy Chapman Andrews and a Goral</span></div> + </div></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">- 5 -</span></p> + +<p>In order to reduce the heavy transportation charges +we purchased only such equipment in New York as +could not be obtained in Shanghai or Hongkong. +Messrs. Shoverling, Daly & Gales furnished our guns, +ammunition, tents, and general camp equipment, and +gave excellent satisfaction in attention to the minor details +which often assume alarming importance when an +expedition is in the field and defects cannot be remedied. +All food and commissary supplies were purchased in +Hongkong (<i>see</i> Chapter IX).</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>When the announcement of the Expedition was made +by the American Museum of Natural History it received +wide publicity in America and other parts of the +world. Immediately we began to discover how many +strange persons make up the great cities of the United +States, and we received letters and telegrams from hundreds +of people who wished to take part in the Expedition. +Men and boys were the principal applicants, but +there was no lack of women, many of whom came to the +Museum for personal interviews.</p> + +<p>Most of the letters were laughable in the extreme. +One was from a butcher who thought he might be of +great assistance in preparing our specimens, or defending +us from savage natives; another young man offered +himself to my wife as a personal bodyguard; a third +was sure his twenty years' experience as a waiter would +fit him for an important position on the Expedition, +and numerous women, young and old, wished to become +"companions" for my wife in those "drear wastes."</p> + +<p>Applicants continued to besiege us wherever we +stopped on our way across the continent and in San +Francisco until we embarked on the afternoon of Mardi +28 on the S. S. <i>Tenyo Maru</i> for Japan.</p> + +<p>Our way across the Pacific was uneventful and as +the great vessel drew in toward the wharf in Yokohama +she was boarded by the usual crowd of natives. We +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">- 6 -</span> +were standing at the rail when three Japanese approached +and, bowing in unison, said, "We are report +for leading Japanese newspaper. We wish to know +all thing about Chinese animal." Evidently the speech +had been rehearsed, for with it their English ended +abruptly, and the interview proceeded rather lamely, +on my part, in Japanese.</p> + +<p>Japan was reveling in the cherry blossom season when +we arrived and for a person interested in color photography +it was a veritable paradise. We stayed three +weeks and regretfully left for Peking by way of Korea. +But before we continue with the story of our further +travels, we would like briefly to review the political +situation in China as a background for our early work +in the province of Fukien.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">- 7 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">CHINA IN TURMOIL</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the time the Expedition was preparing to +leave New York, China was in turmoil. Yuan Shi-kai +was president of the Republic, but the hope of his heart +was to be emperor of China. For twenty years he had +plotted for the throne; he had been emperor for one +hundred miserable days; and now he was watching, +impotently, his dream-castles crumble beneath his feet. +Yuan was the strong man of his day, with more power, +brains, and personality than any Chinese since Li-Hung +Chang. He always had been a factor in his political +world. His monarchical dream first took definite form +as early as 1901 when he became viceroy of Chi-li, the +province in which Peking is situated.</p> + +<p>It was then that he began to modernize and get control +of the army which is the great basis of political +power in China. Properly speaking, there was not, and +is not now, a Chinese national army. It is rather a collection +of armies, each giving loyalty to a certain general, +and he who secures the support of the various commanders +controls the destiny of China's four hundred +millions of people regardless of his official title.</p> + +<p>Yuan was able to bind to himself the majority of +the leading generals, and in 1911, when the Manchu +dynasty was overthrown, his plots and intrigues began +to bear fruit. By crafty juggling of the rebels and +Manchus he managed to get himself elected president +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">- 8 -</span> +of the new republic, although he did not for a moment +believe in the republican form of government. He was +always a monarchist at heart but was perfectly willing +to declare himself an ardent republican so long as such +a declaration could be used as a stepping stone to the +throne which he kept ever as his ultimate goal.</p> + +<p>As president he ruled with a high hand. In 1918 +there was a rebellion in protest against his official acts +but he defeated the rebels, won over more of the older +generals, and solidified the army for his own interests, +making himself stronger than ever before.</p> + +<p>At this time he might well have made a <i>coup d'état</i> +and proclaimed himself emperor with hardly a shadow +of resistance, but with the hereditary caution of the +Chinese he preferred to wait and plot and scheme. He +wanted his position to be even more secure and to have +it appear that he reluctantly accepted the throne as a +patriotic duty at the insistent call of the people.</p> + +<p>Yuan's ways for producing the proper public sentiment +were typically Chinese but entirely effective, and +he was making splendid progress, when in May, 1915, +Japan put a spoke in his wheel of fortune by taking advantage +of the European war and presenting the historical +twenty-one demands, to most of which China +agreed.</p> + +<p>This delayed his plans only temporarily, and Yuan's +agents pushed the work of making him emperor more +actively than ever, with the result that the throne was +tendered to him by the "unanimous vote of the people." +To "save his face" he declined at first but at the second +offer he "reluctantly" yielded and on December 12, +1916, became emperor of China.</p> + +<p>But his triumph was short-lived, for eight days later +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">- 9 -</span> +tidings of unrest in Yün-nan reached Peking. General +Tsai-ao, a former military governor of the province, appeared +in Yün-nan Fu, the capital, and, on December +28, sent an ultimatum to Yuan stating that he must +repudiate the monarchy and execute all those who had +assisted him to gain the throne, otherwise Yün-nan +would secede; which it forthwith did on December 25.</p> + +<p>Without doubt this rebellion was financed by the Japanese +who had intimated to Yuan that the change from +a republican form of government would not meet with +their approval The rebellion spread rapidly. On January +21, Kwei-chau Province, which adjoins Yün-nan, +seceded, and, on March 18, Kwang-si also announced its +independence.</p> + +<p>About this time the Museum authorities were becoming +somewhat doubtful as to the advisability of proceeding +with our Expedition. We had a long talk with +Dr. Wellington Koo, the Chinese Minister to the United +States, at the Biltmore Hotel in New York. Dr. Koo, +while certain that the rebellion would be short-lived, +strongly advised us to postpone our expedition until +conditions became more settled. He offered to cable +Peking for advice, but we, knowing how unwelcome +to the government of the harassed Yuan would be a +party of foreigners who wished to travel in the disturbed +area, gratefully declined and determined to proceed +regardless of conditions. We hoped that Yuan +would be strong enough to crush this rebellion as he +had that of 1918, but day by day, as we anxiously +watched the papers, there came reports of other provinces +dropping away from his standard.</p> + +<p>On the <i>Tenyo Maru</i> we met the Honorable Charles +Denby, an ex-American Consul-General at Shanghai +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">- 10 -</span> +and former adviser to Yuan Shi-kai when he was viceroy +of Chi-li. Mr. Denby was interested in obtaining +a road concession near Peking and was then on his +way to see Yuan. His anxiety over the political situation +was not less than ours and together we often paced +the decks discussing what might happen; but every wireless +report told of more desertions to the ranks of the +rebels.</p> + +<p>It seemed to be the beginning of the end, for Yuan +had lost his nerve. He had decided to quit, and one +hundred days after he became emperor elect he issued +a mandate canceling the monarchy and restoring the +republic. But the rebellious provinces were not satisfied +and demanded that he get out altogether.</p> + +<p>About this time we reached Peking, literally blown +in by a tremendous dust storm which seemed an elemental +manifestation of the human turmoil within the +grim old walls. Our cousin, Commander Thomas Hutchins, +Naval Attaché of the American Legation, was +awaiting us on the platform, holding his hat with one +hand and wiping the dust from his eyes with the other.</p> + +<p>The news we received from him was by no means +comforting for in the Legation pessimism reigned supreme. +The American Minister, Dr. Reinsch, was not +enthusiastic about our going south regardless of conditions, +but nevertheless he set about helping us to obtain +the necessary visé for our passports.</p> + +<p>We wished first to go to Foochow, in Fukien Province, +where we were to hunt tiger until Mr. Heller +joined us in July for the expedition into Yün-nan. +Fukien was still loyal to Yuan, but the strong Japanese +influence in this province, which is directly opposite the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span> +island of Formosa, was causing considerable uneasiness +in Peking.</p> + +<p>We were armed with telegrams from Mr. C. R. +Kellogg, of the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we +were to stay while in Foochow, assuring us that all was +quiet in the province, and through the influence of Dr. +Reinsch, the Chinese Foreign Office viséd our passports. +The huge red stamp which was affixed to them +was an amusing example of Chinese "face saving." +First came the seal of Yuan's impotent dynasty of Hung-Hsien, +signifying "Brilliant Prosperity," and directly +upon it was placed the stamp of the Chinese Republic. +One was almost as legible as the other and thus the +Foreign Office saved its face in whichever direction the +shifting cards of political destiny should fall.</p> + +<p>At a luncheon given by Dr. Reinsch at the Embassy +in Peking, we met Admiral von Hintze, the German +Minister, who had recently completed an adventurous +trip from Germany to China. He was Minister to +Mexico at the beginning of the war but had returned +to Berlin incognito through England to ask the Kaiser +for active sea service. The Emperor was greatly elated +over von Hintze's performance and offered him the +appointment of Minister to China if he could reach +Peking in the same way that he had traveled to Berlin. +Von Hintze therefore shipped as supercargo on a Scandinavian +tramp steamer and arrived safely at Shanghai, +where he assumed all the pomp of a foreign diplomat +and proceeded to the capital.</p> + +<p>The Americans were in a rather difficult position at +this time because of the international complications, +and social intercourse was extremely limited. Dinner +guests had to be chosen with the greatest care and one +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span> +was very likely to meet exactly the same people wherever +one went.</p> + +<p>Peking is a place never to be forgotten by one who +has shared its social life. In the midst of one of the +most picturesque, most historical, and most romantic +cities of the world there is a cosmopolitan community +that enjoys itself to the utmost. Its talk is all of horses, +polo, racing, shooting, dinners, and dances, with the +interesting background of Chinese politics, in which +things are never dull. There is always a rebellion of +some kind to furnish delightful thrills, and one never +can tell when a new political bomb will be projected +from the mysterious gates of the Forbidden City.</p> + +<p>We spent a week in Peking and regretfully left by +rail for Shanghai. <i>En route</i> we passed through Tsinan-fu +where the previous night serious fighting had occurred +in which Japanese soldiers had joined with the +rebels against Yuan's troops. On every side there was +evidence of Japan's efforts against him. In the foreign +quarter of Shanghai just behind the residence of Mr. +Sammons, the American Consul-General, one of Yuan's +leading officers had been openly murdered, and Japanese +were directly concerned in the plot. We were told +that it was very difficult at that time to lease houses in +the foreign concession because wealthy Chinese who +feared the wrath of one party or the other were eager +to pay almost any rent to obtain the protection of that +quarter of the city.</p> + +<p>A short time later it became known to a few that +Yuan was seriously ill. He was suffering from Bright's +disease with its consequent weakness, loss of mental +alertness, and lack of concentration. French doctors +were called in, but Yuan's wives insisted upon treating +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span> +him with concoctions of their own, and on June 6, shortly +after three o'clock in the morning, he died.</p> + +<p>Even on his death-bed Yuan endeavored to save his +face before the country, and his last words were a reiteration +of what he knew no one believed. The story of +his death is told in the China Press of June 7, 1916:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>According to news from the President's palace the condition +of Yuan became critical at three o'clock in the morning. Yuan +asked for his old confidential friend, Hsu Shih-chang, who came +immediately. On the arrival of Hsu, Yuan was extremely weak, +but entirely conscious.</p> + +<p>With tears in his eyes, Yuan assured his old friend that he +had never had any personal ambition for an emperor's crown; +he had been deceived by his <i>entourage</i> over the true state of +public opinion and thus had sincerely believed the people wished +for the restoration of the monarchy. The desire of the South +for his resignation he had not wished to follow for fear that +general anarchy would break out all over China. Now that +he felt death approaching he asked Hsu to make his last words +known to the public.</p> + +<p>In the temporary residence of President Li Yuan-hung, +situated it, the Yung-chan-hu-tung (East City) and formerly +owned by Yang Tu, the prominent monarchist, the formal +transfer of the power to Li Yuan-hung took place this morning +at ten o'clock. Yuan Chi-jui, Secretary of State and Premier, +as well as all the members of the cabinet. Prince Pu Lun +as chairman of the State Council, and other high officials were +present.</p> + +<p>The officials, wearing ceremonial dress, were received by Li-Yuan-hung +in the main hall and made three bows to the new +president, which were returned by the latter. The same ceremony +will take place at two o'clock, when all the high military +officials will assemble at the President's residence.</p> + +<p>The Cabinet, in a circular telegram has informed all the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span> +provinces that Vice-President Li-Yuan-hung, in accordance +with the constitution, has become president of the Chinese Republic +(Chung-hua-min-kuo) from the seventh instance.</p> +</div> + +<p>So ended Yuan Shi-kai's great plot to make himself +an emperor over four hundred millions of people, a +plot which could only have been carried out in China. +He failed, and the once valiant warrior died in the humiliation +of defeat, leaving thirty-two wives, forty children +and his country in political chaos.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">UP THE MIN RIVER</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Three</span> days after leaving Shanghai we arrived at +Pagoda Anchorage at the mouth of the Min River, +twelve miles from Foochow.</p> + +<p>We boarded a launch which threaded its way through +a fleet of picturesque fishing vessels, each one of which +had a round black and white eye painted on its crescent-shaped +bow. When asked the reason for this decoration +a Chinese on the launch looked at us rather pityingly +for a moment and then said: "No have eye. No +can see." How simple and how entirely satisfactory!</p> + +<p>The instant the launch touched the shore dozens of +coolies swarmed like flies over it, fighting madly for +our luggage. One seized a trunk, the other end of +which had been appropriated by another man and, in +the argument which ensued, each endeavored to deafen +the other by his screams. The habit of yelling to enforce +command is inherent with the Chinese and appears to +be ineradicable. To expostulate in an ordinary tone +of voice, pausing to listen to his opponent's reply, seems +a psychological impossibility.</p> + +<p>There had been a mistake about the date of our arrival +at Foochow, and we were two days earlier than +we had been expected, so that Mr. C. R. Kellogg, of +the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we were to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span> +stay, was not on the jetty to meet us. We were at a +loss to know where to turn amidst the chaos and confusion +until a customs officer took us in charge and, +judiciously selecting a competent looking woman from +among the screaming multitude, told her to get two +sedan chairs and coolies to carry our luggage. She disappeared +and ten minutes later the chairs arrived. Dashing +about among the crowd in front of us, she chose +the baggage for such men as met with her approval +and after the usual amount of argument the loads were +taken.</p> + +<p>We mounted our chairs and started off with apparently +all Foochow following us. As far as we could see +down the narrow street were the heads and shoulders of +our porters. We felt as if we were heading an invading +army as, with our thirty-three coolies and sixteen hundred +pounds of luggage, we descended upon the homes +of people whom we did not know and who were not +expecting us. But our sudden arrival did not disturb +the Kelloggs and our welcome was typical of the warm +hospitality one always finds in the Far East.</p> + +<p>No matter how long one has lived in China one remains +in a condition of mental suspense unable to decide +which is the filthiest city of the Republic. The +residents of Foochow boast that for offensiveness to +the senses no town can compare with theirs, and although +Amoy and several other places dispute this questionable +title, we were inclined to grant it unreservedly +to Foochow. It is like a medieval city with its narrow, +ill-paved streets wandering aimlessly in a hopeless maze. +They are usually roofed over so that by no accident +can a ray of purifying sun penetrate their dark comers. +With no ventilation whatsoever the oppressive air reeks +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span> +with the odors that rise from the streets and the steaming +houses.</p> + +<p>In Foochow, as in other cities of China, the narrow +alleys are literally choked with every form of industrial +obstruction. Countless workmen plant themselves in the +tiny passageways with the pigs, children, and dogs, and +women bring their quilts to spread upon the stones. +There is a common saying that the Chinese do little +which is not at some time done on the street.</p> + +<p>The foreign residents, including consuls of all nationalities, +missionaries, and merchants, live well out of +the city on a hilltop. Their houses are built with very +high ceilings and bare interiors, and as the occupants +seldom go into the city except in a sedan chair and have +"punkahs" waving day and night, life is made possible +during the intense heat of summer.</p> + +<p>A telegram was awaiting us from the Reverend Harry +Caldwell, with whom we were to hunt, asking us to +come to his station two hundred miles up the river, and +we passed two sweltering days repacking our outfit +while Mr. Kellogg scoured the country for an English-speaking +cook.</p> + +<p>One middle-aged gentleman presented himself, but +when he learned that we were going "up country," he +shook his head with an assumption of great filial devotion +and said that he did not think his mother would +let him go. Another was afraid the sun might be too +hot. Finally on the eve of our departure we engaged +a stuttering Chinese who assured us that he was a remarkable +cook and exceptionally honest</p> + +<p>If you have never heard a Chinaman stutter you +have something to live for, and although we discovered +that our cook was a shameless rascal he was worth all +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span> +he extracted in "squeeze," for whenever he attempted +to utter a word we became almost hysterical. He sounded +exactly like a worn-out phonograph record buzzing +on a single note, and when he finally did manage to +articulate, his "pidgin" English in itself was screamingly +funny.</p> + +<p>One day he came to the <i>sampan</i> proudly displaying a +piece of beef and, after a series of vocal gymnastics, +eventually succeeded in shouting: "Missie, this meat +no belong die-cow. Die-cow not so handsome." Which +meant that this particular piece of beef was not from +an animal which had died from disease.</p> + +<p>The first stage of our trip began before daylight. +We rode in four-man sedan chairs, followed by a long +procession of heavily laden coolies with our cameras, +duffle-sacks, and pack baskets. The road lay through +green rice fields between terraced mountains, and we +jogged along first on the crest of a hill, then in the +valley, passing dilapidated temples with the paint flaking +off and picturesque little huts half hidden in the +reeds of the winding river. It was a relief to get into +the country again after passing down the narrow village +streets and to breathe fresh air perfumed with +honeysuckle.</p> + +<p>A passenger launch makes the trip to Cui-kau at the +beginning of the rapids, but it leaves at two o'clock in +the morning and is literally crowded to overflowing +with evil-smelling Chinese who sprawl over every available +inch of deck space, so that even the missionaries +strongly advised us against taking it. The passengers +not infrequently are pushed off into the water. One +of the missionaries witnessed an incident which illustrates +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span> +in a typical way the total lack of sympathy of the +average Chinese.</p> + +<p>A coolie on the Cui-kau launch accidentally fell overboard, +and although a friend was able to grasp his hand +and hold him above the surface, no one offered to help +him; the launch continued at full speed, and finally +weakening, the poor man loosed his hold and sank. This +is by no means an isolated case. Some years ago a +foreign steamer was burned on the Yangtze River, and +the crowds of watching Chinese did little or nothing +to rescue the passengers and crew. Indeed, as fast as +they made their way to shore many of them were robbed +even of their clothing and some were murdered outright.</p> + +<p>Our first day on the Min River was the most luxurious +of the entire Expedition, for we were fortunate +in obtaining the Standard Oil Company's launch +through the kindness of Mr. Livingstone, their agent. +It was large and roomy, and the trip, which would +have been worse than disagreeable on the public boat, +was most delightful. The Min is one of the most beautiful +rivers of all China with its velvet green mountains +rising a thousand feet or more straight up from the +water and often terraced to the summits.</p> + +<p>Perched on the bow of our boat was a wizened little +gentleman with a pigtail wrapped around his head, who +said he was a pilot, but as he inquired the channel of +everyone who passed and ran us aground a dozen times +or more to the tremendous agitation of our captain, +we felt that his claim was not entirely justified.</p> + +<p>The river life was a fascinating, ever-changing picture. +One moment we would pass a <i>sampan</i> so loaded +with branches that it seemed like a small island floating +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span> +down the stream. Next a huge junk with bamboo-ribbed +sails projecting at impossible angles drifted by, +followed by innumerable smaller crafts, the monotonous +chant of the boatmen coming faintly over the water to +us as they passed.</p> + +<p>When evening came we had reached Cui-kau. The +<i>sampans</i> in which we were to spend eight days were +drawn up on the beach with twenty or thirty others. +Right above us was the straggling town looking very +much like the rear view of tenement houses at home. +Darkness blotted out the filth of our surroundings but +could do nothing to lessen the odors that poured down +from the village, and we ate our dinner with little relish.</p> + +<p>Our beds were spread in the <i>sampans</i> which we shared +in common with the four river men who formed the +crew. There was only a mosquito net to screen the +end of the boat, but all our surroundings were so strange +that this was but a minor detail. As we lay in our cots +we could look up at the stars framed in the half oval +of the <i>sampan's</i> roof and listen to the sounds of the +water life grow fainter and fainter as one by one the +river men beached their boats for the night. It seemed +only a few minutes later when we were roused by a +rush of water, but it was daylight, and the boats had +reached the first of the rapids which separated us from +Yen-ping, one hundred and twenty miles away.</p> + +<p>In the late afternoon we arrived at Chang-hu-fan +where Mr. Caldwell stood on the shore waving his hat +to us amidst scores of dirty little children and the explosion +of countless firecrackers. Wherever we went +crackers preceded and followed us—for when a Chinese +wishes to register extreme emotion, either of joy or sorrow, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span> +its expression always takes the form of firecrackers.</p> + +<p>There had been a good deal of persecution of the +native Christians in the district, and only recently a band +of soldiers had strung up the native pastor by the +thumbs and beaten him senseless. He was our host that +night and seemed to be a bright, vivacious, little man +but quite deaf as a result of his cruel treatment. He +never recovered and died a few weeks later. Mr. Caldwell +had come to investigate the affair, for the missionaries +are invested by the people themselves with a good +deal of authority.</p> + +<p>We spent that night in the parish house just behind +the little church, a bare schoolroom being turned over +to us for our use, and it seemed very luxurious after we +had set up our cots, tables, chairs, and bath tub; but the +house was in the center of the town and the high walls +shut out every breath of pure air. The barred windows +opened on a street hardly six feet wide, and while we +were preparing for bed there was a buzz of subdued +whispers outside. We switched on a powerful electric +flashlight and there stood at least forty men, women +and children gazing at us with rapt attention, but they +melted away before the blinding glare like snow in a +June sun.</p> + +<p>That night was not a pleasant one. The heat was +intense, the mosquitoes worse, and every dog and cat +in the village seemed to choose our court yard as a +dueling ground in which to settle old scores. The climax +was reached at four o'clock in the morning, when +directly under our windows there came a series of ear-splitting +squeals followed by a horrible gurgle. The +neighbors had chosen that particular spot and how to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span> +kill the family pig, and the entire process which followed +of sousing it in hot water and scraping off the hair was +accompanied by unceasing chatter. Boiling with +rage we dressed and went for a walk, vowing not to +spend another night in the place but to sleep in the +<i>sampans</i>.</p> + +<p>On the whole our river men were nice fellows but +they had the love of companionship characteristic of +all Chinese and the inherent desire to huddle together +as closely as possible wherever they were. On the way +up the river to Yuchi every evening they insisted on +stopping at some foul-smelling village, and it was difficult +to induce them to spend the night away from a town. +Moreover, at our stops for luncheon they would invariably +ignore a shady spot and choose a sand bank where +the sun beat down like a blast furnace.</p> + +<p>The Chinese never appear to be affected by the sun +and go bareheaded at all seasons of the year, shading +their eyes with one hand or a partly opened fan. A +fan is the prime requisite, and it is not uncommon to +see coolies almost devoid of clothing, dragging a heavy +load and with the perspiration streaming from their +naked bodies, energetically fanning themselves meanwhile.</p> + +<p>Mr. Caldwell was <i>en route</i> to Yuchi, one of his mission +stations far up a branch of the Min River, and as +there was a vague report of tiger in that vicinity we +joined him instead of proceeding directly to Yen-ping. +The tiger story was found to be merely a myth, but +our trip was made interesting by meeting Miss Mabel +Hartford, the only foreign resident of the place. She +has lived in Yuchi for two years and at one time did +not see a white person for eight months with the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span> +exception of Mr. Caldwell who was in the vicinity for +three days. It requires four weeks to obtain supplies +from Foochow, there is no telegraph, and mails are +very irregular, but she enjoys the isolation and is passionately +fond of her work.</p> + +<p>She has had an interesting life and one not devoid +of danger. In 1895 she was wounded and barely escaped +death in the Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain) massacre +in which ten women and one man were brutally murdered +by a mob of fanatic natives known as "Vegetarians." +The Chinese Government was required to pay +a considerable indemnity to Miss Hartford, which she +accepted only under protest and characteristically devoted +to missionary work in Kucheng where the massacre +occurred.</p> + +<p>Conditions at Yuchi when we arrived were most unsettled +and for some months there had been a veritable +"reign of terror." A large band of brigands was established +in the hills not far from the city, and we were +warned by the mandarin not to attempt to go farther +up the river. A few months earlier several companies +of soldiers had been sent from Foochow, and the result +of turning loose these ruffians upon the town was to +make "the remedy worse than the disease."</p> + +<p>The soldiers were continually arresting innocent peasants, +accusing them of being brigands or aiding the +bandits, and shooting them without a hearing. At one +time accurate information concerning the camp of the +robbers was received and the soldiers set bravely off, +but when within a short distance of the brigands the +commanders began to quarrel among themselves, guns +were fired, and the bandits escaped. A Chinaman must +always "save his face," however, and when they returned +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span> +to Yuchi they arrested dozens of people on mere suspicion +and executed them without the vestige of a trial. +Finally conditions became so intolerable that no one +was safe, and after repeated complaints by the missionaries, +a new mandarin of a somewhat better type was +sent to Yuchi.</p> + +<p>As it was impossible to do any collecting farther up +the river because of the bandits, we left for Yen-ping +two days after arriving at Yuchi. Yen-ping is a wonderfully +picturesque old city, situated on a hill at a fork +of the river and surrounded by high stone walls pierced +and loopholed for rifle fire. Such walls, while of little +use against artillery, nevertheless offer a formidable +obstacle to anything less than field guns as we ourselves +were destined to discover.</p> + +<p>The Methodist mission compound encloses a considerable +area on the very summit of the hill, backed by +the city wall, and besides the four dwelling houses, comprises +two large schools for boys and girls. Mr. Caldwell's +residence commands a wonderful view down the +river and in the late afternoon sunlight when the hills +are bathed in pink and lavender and purple a more +beautiful spot can hardly be imagined.</p> + +<p>But the delights of Yen-ping are somewhat tempered +by the abominable weather. In summer the heat is almost +unbearable and the air is so nearly saturated from +continual rain that it is impossible to dry anything except +over a fire. From all reports winter must be almost +as bad in the opposite extreme for the cold is damp +and penetrating; but the early fall is said to be delightful.</p> + +<p>The larger part of Fukien, like many other provinces +in China, has been denuded of forests, and the groves +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span> +of pine which remain have all been planted. This deforestation +consequently has driven out the game, and +except for tigers, leopards, wolves, wild pigs, serows and +gorals, none of the large species is left. However, the +dense growth of sword grass and the thorny bushes +which clothe the hills and choke the ravines give cover to +muntjac, or barking deer, and many species of small +cats, civets, and other Viverines. These animals come +to the rice paddys, which fill every valley, to hunt for +frogs and fish, but it is difficult to catch them because +of the Chinese who are continually at work in the fields.</p> + +<p>We spent a week trapping about Yen-ping and although +we caught a good many animals they were almost +always stolen together with the traps. We had this +same difficulty in Yün-nan as well as in Fukien. None +of us had ever seen natives in any part of the world who +were such unmitigated thieves as the Chinese of these +two provinces. The small mammals are hardly more +abundant than the larger ones for the natives wage an +unceasing war on those about the rice paddys and have +exterminated nearly all but a few widely distributed +forms.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">A BAT CAVE IN THE BIG RAVINE</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> days after our arrival in Yen-ping we went +with Mr. Caldwell and his son Oliver to a Taoist temple +seven miles away in a lonely ravine known as Chi-yuen-kang. +The walk to the temple in the early morning +was delightful. The "bamboo chickens" and francolins +were calling all about us and on the way we shot +enough for our first day's dinner. Both these birds +are abundant in Fukien Province but it is by no means +easy to kill them for they live in such thick cover that +they can only be flushed with difficulty.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning we frequently heard the francolins +crowing in the trees or on the top of a hill and +when a cock had taken possession of such a spot the intrusion +of another was almost sure to cause trouble +which only ended when one of them had been driven +off.</p> + +<p>For two miles and a half the Big Ravine is a narrow +cut between perpendicular rock walls thickly clothed +to their very summits with bamboo and a tangle of +thorny vines. In the bottom of the gorge a mountain +torrent foams among huge bowlders but becomes a gentle, +slow moving stream when it leaves the cool darkness +of the cañon to spread itself over the terraced rice +fields.</p> + +<p>About a mile from the entrance two old temples nestle +into the hillside. One stands just over the water, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span> +but the other clings to the rock wall three hundred feet +above the river, and it was there that we made our +camp.</p> + +<p>The old priest in charge did not appear especially +delighted to see us until I slipped a Mexican dollar into +his hand—then it was laughable to see his change of +face. The far end of the balcony was given up to us +while Mr. Caldwell and Oliver put up their beds at +the feet of a grinning idol in the main temple.</p> + +<p>We had come to Chi-yuen-kang to hunt serow (<i>see</i> +Chapter XVII) and had brought with us only a few +traps for small mammals. Harry had seen several +serow exhibited for sale on market days in towns along +the river, and all were reported to have been killed near +this ravine. There was a village of considerable size +at the upper end and here we collected a motley lot of +beaters with half a dozen dogs to drive the top of a +mountain which towered about two thousand five hundred +feet above the river.</p> + +<p>Never will we forget that climb! We tried to start +at daylight but it was well toward six o'clock before we +got our men together. A Chinaman would drive an +impatient man to apoplexy and an early grave for it +is well-nigh impossible to get him started within an +hour of the appointed time, and with a half dozen the +difficulty is multiplied as many times. Just when you +think all is ready and that there can be no possible reason +for delaying longer, the whole crowd will disappear +suddenly and you discover that they have gone +for "chow." Then you know that the end is really in +sight, for chow usually is the last thing.</p> + +<p>We waited nearly two hours on this particular morning +before we started on the long climb to the top of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span> +mountain. The sun was simply blazing, and in fifteen +minutes we were soaked with perspiration. When we +were half way up the dogs disappeared in a small +ravine overgrown with bamboo and sword grass and +suddenly broke into a chorus of yelps. They had found +a fresh trail and were driving our way.</p> + +<p>Harry ran to a narrow opening in the jungle, shouting +to us to watch another higher up. We were hardly +in position when his rifle banged, followed by such a +bedlam of yells and barks that we thought he must +have killed nothing less than one of the hunters. Before +we reached them Harry appeared, smiling all over, +and dragging a muntjac (<i>Muntiacus</i>) by the fore legs. +He had just made a beautiful shot, for the clearing he +had been watching was not more than ten feet wide and +the muntjac flashed across it at full speed. Caldwell +fired while it was in mid-air and his bullet caught the +animal at the base of the neck, rolling it over stone +dead.</p> + +<p>This beautiful little deer in Fukien is hardly larger +than a fox. Its antlers are only two or three inches in +length and rise from an elongated skin-covered pedicel +instead of from the base of the skull as in all other members +of the deer family. On each side of the upper jaw +is a slender tusk, about two inches long, which projects +well beyond the lips and makes a rather formidable +weapon.</p> + +<p>We hoped that this muntjac was going to prove a +"good joss," but instead a disappointing day was in +store for us. When we had worked our way to the very +summit of the mountain under a merciless sun and over +a trail which led through a smothering bamboo jungle, +we saw dozens of fresh serow tracks. The animals were +there without a doubt and we were on the <i>qui vive</i> with +excitement.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f28a" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f28a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Hunter and a Muntjac</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f28b" style="width: 351px;"> + <img src="images/img_f28b.png" width="351" height="288" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Brigands Killed in the Yen-ping Rebellion</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span></p> + +<p>We selected positions and the men made a long circuit +to drive toward us as Caldwell had directed. After +half an hour had passed we heard them yelling as they +closed in, but what was our disgust to see them solemnly +parading in single file up the bottom of the valley on +an open trail and carefully avoiding all thickets where +a serow could possibly be. As Harry expressed it, "all +the animals had to do was to sit tight and watch the +noble procession pass." The beaters very evidently knew +nothing whatever about driving nor were we able to +teach them, for they seriously objected to leaving the +open trails and going into the bush.</p> + +<p>We worked hard for serow but the men were hopeless +and it was impossible to "still hunt" the animals +at that time of the year. The natives say that in September +when the mushrooms are abundant in the lower +forests the serow leave the mountain tops and thick +cover to feed upon the fungus, and that they may be +killed without the aid of beaters, but at any time the +hunt would involve a vast amount of labor with only a +moderate chance of success. After we had left Fukien, +Mr. Caldwell purchased a fine male and female serow +for us which are especially interesting as they represent +a different subspecies (<i>Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes</i>) +from those we killed in Yün-nan.</p> + +<p>Chi-yuen-kang did yield us results, however, for we +discovered a wonderful bat cave less than a mile from +our temple. Its entrance was a low round hole half +covered with vegetation, and opening into a high circular +gallery; from this three long corridors branched +off like fingers from the palm of a giant's hand. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span> +cave was literally alive with bats. There must have +been ten thousand and on the first day we killed a +hundred, representing seven species and at least four +genera. This was especially remarkable as it is unusual +to find more than two or three species living together.</p> + +<p>The cave was a regular bat apartment house for each +corridor was divided by rock partitions into several +small rooms in every one of which bats of different +species were rearing their families. The young in most +instances were only a few days old but were thickly +clustered on the walls and ceilings, and each and every +one was squeaking at the top of its tiny lungs. The +place must have been occupied for scores, if not hundreds, +of years for the floor was knee-deep with dung.</p> + +<p>When we returned the day after our first visit we +found that many of the young bats had been removed +by their parents and in some instances entire rooms +had been vacated. After the first day the odor of the +cave was so nauseating that to enable us to go inside +it was necessary to wear gauze pads of iodoform over +our noses.</p> + +<p>The bats at this place were killed with bamboo +switches but later we always used a long gill net which +had been especially made in New York. We could hang +the net over the entrance to a cave and, when all was +ready, send a native into the galleries to stir up the +animals. As they flew out they became entangled in +the net and could be caught or killed before they were +able to get away. It was sometimes possible to catch +every specimen in a cavern, and moreover, to secure them +in perfect condition without broken skulls or wings.</p> + +<p>If a bat escaped from the net it would never again +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span> +strike it, for the animals are wonderfully accurate in +flight and most expert dodgers. Even while in a cave, +where hundreds of bats were in the air, they seldom +flew against us, although we might often be brushed +by their wings; and it was a most difficult thing to hit +them with a bamboo switch. Their ability in dodging +is without doubt a necessary development of their feeding +habits for, with the exception of a few species, bats +live exclusively upon insects and catch them in the +air.</p> + +<p>It is a rather terrifying experience for a girl to sit +in a bat cave especially if the light has gone out and +she is in utter darkness. Of course she has a cap tightly +pulled over her ears, for what girl, even if she be a +naturalist's wife, would venture into a den of evil bats +with one wisp of hair exposed!</p> + +<p>All about is the swish of ghostly wings which brush +her face or neck and the air is full of chattering noises +like the grinding of hundreds of tiny teeth. Sometimes +a soft little body plumps into her lap and if she dares +to take her hands from her face long enough to disengage +the clinging animal she is liable to receive a vicious +bite from teeth as sharp as needles. But, withal, it is +good fun, and think how quickly formalin jars or collecting +trays can be filled with beautiful specimens!</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE YEN-PING REBELLION</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> Sunday, June 18, we went to the bat cave to +obtain a new supply of specimens. Upon our return, +just as we were about to sit down to luncheon, four +excited Chinese appeared with the following letter from +Mr. Caldwell:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Roy:</span></p> + +<p>There was quite a lively time in the city at an early hour this +morning. The rebels have taken Yen-ping and it looks as +though there was trouble ahead. Northern soldiers have been +sent for and the chances are that either tonight or tomorrow +morning there will be quite a battle. Bankhardt, Dr. Trimble +and myself have just made a round of the city, visiting the +telegraph office, post office and other places, and while we do +not believe that the foreigners will be molested, nevertheless it +is impossible to tell just what to expect. It is certain, however, +that the Consul will order all of us to Foochow if news of +the situation reaches there. Owing to the uncertainty, I think +you had better come in to Yen-ping so as to be ready for any +eventuality.</p> + +<p>After talking the situation over with Dr. Trimble and Mr. +Bankhardt, we all agreed that the wisest thing is for you to +come in immediately. I am sending four burden-bearers for it +will be out of the question to find any tomorrow, if trouble +occurs tonight. The city gates are closed so you will have to +climb up the ladder over the wall behind our compound. Best +wishes.</p> + +<p class="tdr"> +<span class="smcap">Harry.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span></p> + +<p>P. S.—Later: It is again reported that Northern soldiers +are to arrive tonight. If they do and trouble occurs your only +chance is to get to Yen-ping today.</p> + +<p class="tdr"> +H. C.<br /> +</p> +</div> + +<p>The camp immediately was thrown into confusion for +Da-Ming, the cook, and the burden-bearers were jabbering +excitedly at the top of their voices. The servants +began to pack the loads at once and meanwhile +we ate a roast chicken faster than good table manners +would permit—in fact, we took it in our fingers. We +were both delighted at the prospect of some excitement +and talked almost as fast as the Chinese.</p> + +<p>In just one hour from the time Harry's letter had +been received, we were on the way to Yen-ping. It was +the hottest part of the day, and we were dripping with +perspiration when we left the cool darkness of the ravine +and struck across the open valley, which lay shimmering +in a furnace-like heat. At the first rest house +an the top of the long hill we waited nearly an hour +for our bearers who were struggling under the heavy +loads.</p> + +<p>Three miles farther on a poor woman tottered past +us on her peglike feet leaning on the arm of a man. A +short distance more and we came to the second rest +house. We had been there but a few moments when +three panting women, steadying themselves with long +staves and barely able to walk on feet not more than +four inches long, came up the hill. With them were +several men bearing household goods in large bundles +and huge red boxes.</p> + +<p>The exhausted women sank upon the benches and +fanned themselves while the perspiration ran down their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span> +flushed faces. They looked so utterly miserable that +we told the cook to give them a piece of cake which +Mrs. Caldwell had sent us the day before. Their gratitude +was pitiful, but, of course, they gave the larger +share to the men.</p> + +<p>It was not long before other women and children +appeared on the hill path, all struggling upward under +heavy loads, or tottering along on tightly bound feet. +Probably these women had not walked so far in their +entire lives, but the fear of the Northern soldiers and +what would happen in the city if they took possession +had driven them from their homes.</p> + +<p>Farther on we had a clear view across the valley +where a long line of people was filing up to a temple +which nestled into the hillside. Half a mile beyond +were two other temples both crowded with refugees +and their goods. Hundreds of families were seeking +shelter in every little house beside the road and were +overflowing into the cowsheds and pigpens.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock we stood on the summit of the hill overlooking +the city and half an hour later were clambering +up the ladder over the high wall of the compound, just +behind Dr. Trimble's house. We were wet through and +while cooling off heard the story of the morning's fighting. +It seemed that a certain element in the city was in +coöperation with the representatives of the revolutionary +organization. These men wished to obtain possession +of Yen-ping and, after the rebellion was well started, +to gather forces, march to Foochow, and force the Governor +to declare the independence of the province.</p> + +<p>The plot had been hatching for several days, but the +death of Yuan Shi-kai had somewhat delayed its fruition. +Saturday, however, it was known throughout the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span> +city that trouble would soon begin. Sunday morning +at half past three, a band of one hundred men from +Yuchi had marched to Yen-ping where they were received +by a delegation of rebels dressed in white who +opened to them the east gate of the city. Immediately +they began to fire up the streets to intimidate the people +and in a short time were in a hot engagement with +the seventeen Northern soldiers, some of whom threw +away their guns and swam across the river. The remaining +city troops were from the province of Hunan +and their sympathies were really with the South in the +great rebellion. These immediately joined the rebels, +where they were received with open arms. It was reported +that the <i>tao-tai</i> (district mandarin) had asked +for troops from Foochow and that these might be expected +at any moment; thus when they arrived a real +battle could be expected and it was very likely that the +city would be partly destroyed.</p> + +<p>We had a picnic supper on the Caldwell's porch and +discussed the situation. It was the opinion of all that +the foreigners were in no immediate danger, but nevertheless +it was considered wise to be prepared, and we +decided upon posts for each man if it should become +necessary to protect the compound.</p> + +<p>Hundreds of people were besieging the missionaries +with requests to be allowed to bring their goods and +families inside the walls, but these necessarily had to be +refused. Had the missionaries allowed the Chinese to +bring their valuables inside it would have cost them the +right of Consular protection and, moreover, their compound +would have been the first to be attacked if looting began.</p> + +<p>On Monday morning while we were sitting on the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span> +porch of Mr. Caldwell's house preparing some bird +skins, there came a sharp crackle of rifle fire and then +a roar of shots. Bullets began to whistle over us and +we could see puffs of smoke as the deep bang of a +black powder gun punctuated the vicious snapping of +the high-power rifles. The firing gradually ceased after +half an hour and we decided to go down to the city to +see what had happened, for, as no Northern troops had +appeared, the cause of the fighting was a mystery.</p> + +<p>We went first to the mission hospital which lay +across a deep ravine and only a few yards from the +quarters of the soldiers. At the door of the hospital +compound lay a bloody rag, and we found Dr. Trimble +in the operating room examining a wounded man who +had just been brought in. The fellow had been shot +in the abdomen with a 45-caliber lead ball that had gone +entirely through him, emerging about three inches to +the right of his spine.</p> + +<p>From the doctor we got the first real news of the +puzzling situation. It appeared that all the men who had +arrived Sunday morning from Yuchi to join the Yen-ping +rebels were in reality brigands and, to save their +own lives, the Hunan soldiers quartered in the city had +played a clever trick. They had pretended to join the +rebels but at a given signal had turned upon them, +killing or capturing almost every one. Although their +sympathies were really with the South, the Hunan men +knew that the rebels in Yen-ping could not hold the +city against the Northern soldiers from Foochow and, +by crushing the rebellion themselves, they hoped to +avert a bigger fight.</p> + +<p>As we could not help the doctor he suggested that +we might be of some assistance to the wounded in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span> +city, and with rude crosses of red cloth pinned to our +white shirt sleeves we left the hospital, accompanied +by four Chinese attendants bearing a stretcher. In +the compound we met a chair in which was lying an old +man groaning loudly and dripping with blood. Beside +him were his wife and several boys. The poor woman +was crying quietly and, between her sobs, was offering +the wounded man mustard pickles from a small +dish in her hand! Poor things, they have so little to +eat that they believe food will cure all ills!</p> + +<p>The bearers set the chair down as we appeared and +lifted the filthy rag which covered a gaping wound in +the man's shoulder, over which had been plastered a +great mass of cow dung. Just think of the infection, +but it was the only remedy they knew!</p> + +<p>We took the man upstairs where Dr. Trimble was +preparing to operate on the fellow who had been shot +in the abdomen. The doctor was working steadily and +quietly, making every move count and inspiring his native +hospital staff with his own coolness; the way this +young missionary handled his cases made us glad that +he was an American.</p> + +<p>On the way down the hill several soldiers passed us, +each carrying four or five rifles and slung about with +cartridge belts—plunder stripped from the men who +had been killed. A few hundred yards farther on we +found two brigands lying dead in a narrow street. The +nearest one had fallen on his face and, as we turned him +over, we saw that half his head had been blown away; +the other was staring upward with wide open eyes on +which the flies already were settling in swarms.</p> + +<p>There was little use in wasting time over these men +who long ago had passed beyond need of our help, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span> +we went on rapidly down the alley to the main thoroughfare. +Guided by a small boy, we hurried over the +rough stones for fifteen minutes, and suddenly came +to a man lying at the side of the street, his head propped +on a wooden block. An umbrella once had partly covered +him but had fallen away, leaving him unprotected +in the broiling sun. His face and a terrible wound in +his head were a solid mass of flies, and thousands of +insects were crawling over the blood clots on the stones +beside him. At first we thought he was dead but soon +saw his abdomen move and realized that he was breathing. +It did not seem possible that a human being could +live under such conditions; and yet the bystanders told +us that he had been lying there for thirty hours—he +had been shot early the previous morning and it was +now three o'clock of the next afternoon.</p> + +<p>The man was a poor water-carrier who lived with his +wife in the most utter poverty. He had been peering +over the city wall when the firing began Sunday morning +and was one of the first innocent bystanders to pay +the penalty of his curiosity. I asked why he had not +been taken to the hospital, and the answer was that +his wife was too poor to hire anyone to carry him and +he had no friends. So there he lay in the burning sun, +gazed at by hundreds of passers-by, without one hand +being lifted to help him.</p> + +<p>Our hospital attendants brushed away the flies, placed +him in the stretcher and started up the long hill, followed +by the haggard, weeping wife and a curious crowd. +On every hand were questions: "Why are these men +taking him away?" "What are they going to do with +him?" But several educated natives who understood +said, "<b>Ing-ai-gidaiie</b>" (A work of love). They got right +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span> +there a lesson in Christianity which they will not soon +forget. It is seldom that Chinese try to help an injured +man, for ever present in their minds is the possibility +that he may die and that they will be responsible for +his burial expenses.</p> + +<p>We left the stretcher bearers at the corner of the main +street with orders to return as soon as they had deposited +the man in the hospital and, under the guidance +of a boy, hurried toward the east gate where it was said +seven or eight men had been shot. Our guide took us +first to a brigand who had been wounded and left to +die beside the gutter. The corpse was a horrible sight +and with a feeling of deathly nausea we made a hurried +examination and walked to the gate at the end +of the street.</p> + +<p>A dozen soldiers were on guard. We learned from +the officer that there were no wounded in the pile of +dead just beyond the entrance, so we turned toward the +river bank and rapidly patrolled the alleys leading to +the <i>tao-tai's yamen</i> (official residence) where the firing +had been heaviest. The <i>yamen</i> was crowded with soldiers, +and we were informed that the dead had all been +removed and that there were no wounded—a grim +statement which told its own story.</p> + +<p>The <i>yamen</i> is but a short distance from the hospital +so we climbed the hill to the compound. The sun was +simply blazing and I realized then what the wounded +men must have suffered lying in the heat without shelter. +We returned to the house and were resting on the +upper porch when suddenly, far down the river, we +saw the glint of rifle barrels in the sunlight, and with +field glasses made out a long line of khaki-clad men +winding along the shore trail. At the same time two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span> +huge boats filled with soldiers came into view heading +for the water gate of the city. These were undoubtedly +the Northern troops from Foochow who were expected Monday night.</p> + +<p>Even as we looked there came a sudden roar of +musketry and a cloud of smoke drifted up from the +barracks right below us—then a rattling fusillade of +shots. We could see soldiers running along the walls +firing at men below and often in our direction. Bullets +hummed in the air like angry bees and we rushed for +cover, but in a few moments the firing ceased as suddenly +as it began.</p> + +<p>We were at a loss to know what it all meant and +why the troops were firing upon the Northern soldiers +whom they wished to placate. It was still a mystery +when we sat down to dinner at half past seven, but a +few minutes later Mr. Bankhardt rushed in saying that +he had just received a note from the <i>tao-tai</i>. The mandarin's +personal servant had brought word that the +Northern soldiers, who had just entered the city, were +going to kill him and he begged the missionaries for +assistance. Bankhardt also told us of the latest developments +in the situation. It seems that the city soldiers +supposed the Northern troops to be brigands and +had fired upon them and killed several before they discovered +their mistake. A very delicate situation had +thus been precipitated, for the Northern commander +believed that it was treachery and intended to attack +the barracks in the morning and kill every man whom +he found with a rifle, as well as all the city officials.</p> + +<p>The story of the way in which the missionaries acted +as peacemakers, saved the <i>tao-tai</i>, and prevented the +slaughter which surely would have taken place in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span> +morning, is too long to be told here, for it was accomplished +only after hours of the talk and "face saving" +so dear to the heart of the Oriental. Suffice it to say +that through the exercise of great tact and a thorough +understanding of the Chinese character they were able +to settle the matter without bloodshed.</p> + +<p>The following day twenty brigands were given a so-called +trial, marched off to the west gate, beheaded amid +great enthusiasm, and the incident was closed. In the +afternoon a messenger called and delivered to each of +us an official letter from the commander of the Northern +troops thanking us for the part we had played in averting +trouble and bringing the matter to a peaceful end.</p> + +<p>An interesting sidelight on the affair was received +a few days later. A young man, a Christian, who was +born in the same town from which a number of the +brigands had come, went to his house on Monday night +after the fight and found seven of the robbers concealed +in his bedroom. He was terrified because if they were +discovered he and all his family would be killed for aiding +the bandits. He told them they must leave at once, +but they pleaded with him to let them stay for they +knew there were soldiers at every corner and that it +would be impossible to get away.</p> + +<p>While he was imploring them to go, a knock sounded +at the door. He pushed the brigands into the courtyard, +and opened to three soldiers. They said: "We +understand you have brigands in your house." He +was trembling with fear, but answered, "Come in and +see for yourself, if you think so."</p> + +<p>The soldiers were satisfied by his frank open manner +and, as they knew him to be a good man, did not +search the house, but went away. The poor fellow was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span> +frightened nearly to death, but as his place was being +watched it was impossible for the brigands to leave +during the day.</p> + +<p>At night they stripped themselves, shaved their heads, +and dressed like coolies, and were able to get to the +ladder down the city wall just below the mission compound +where they could escape into the hills.</p> + +<p>The day after this occurrence, about four o'clock in +the afternoon, a breathless Chinese appeared at the +house with a note to Mr. Bankhardt saying that his +Chinese teacher and the mission school cook had been +arrested by the Northern soldiers and were to be beheaded +in an hour. We hurried to the police office +where they were confined and found that not only the +two men but three others were in custody.</p> + +<p>The mission cook owned a small restaurant under the +management of one of his relatives and, while Bankhardt's +teacher and the other man were sitting at a +table, some Northern soldiers appeared, one of whom +owed the restaurant keeper a small amount of money. +When asked to pay, the soldier turned upon him and +shouted: "You have been assisting the brigands. I saw +some of them carrying goods into your house." Thereupon +the soldiers arrested everyone in the shop.</p> + +<p>The police officials were quite ready to release the +teacher and the other man upon our statements, but +they would not allow the cook to go. His hands were +kept tightly bound and he was chained to a post by +the neck. The soldier who arrested him was his sole +accuser, but of course, others would appear to uphold +him in his charge if it were necessary.</p> + +<p>The cook was as innocent as any one of the missionaries, +but it required several hours of work and threats +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span> +of complaint to the government at Foochow to prevent +the man from being summarily executed.</p> + +<p>We were not able to get any mail from Foochow +during the rebellion because the constant stream of +Northern soldiers on their way up the river had paralyzed +the entire country to such an extent that all the +river men had fled.</p> + +<p>The soldiers were firing for target practice upon +every boat they saw on the river and dozens of men +had been killed and then robbed. The Northern commander +told us frankly that this could not be prevented, +and when we announced that we were going to +start with all the missionaries down the river on the +following day, he was very much disturbed. He insisted +that we have American flags displayed on our +boats to prevent being fired upon by the soldiers.</p> + +<p>Although it had taken eight days to work our way +laboriously through the rapids and up the river from +Foochow to Yen-ping, we covered the same distance +down the river in twenty-four hours and had breakfast +with Mr. Kellogg at his house the morning after we +left Yen-ping. In two days our equipment was repacked +and ready for the trip to Futsing to hunt the +blue tiger.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">HUNTING THE "GREAT INVISIBLE"</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">For</span> many years before Mr. Caldwell went to Yen-ping +he had been stationed at the city of Futsing, about +thirty miles from Foochow. Much of his work consisted +of itinerant trips during which he visited the +various mission stations under his charge. He almost +invariably went on foot from place to place and carried +with him a butterfly net and a rifle, so that to so +keen a naturalist each day's walk was full of interest.</p> + +<p>The country was infested with man-eating tigers, +and very often the villagers implored him to rid their +neighborhood of some one of the yellow raiders which +had been killing their children, pigs, or cattle. During +ten years he had killed seven tigers in the Futsing +region. He often said that his gun had been just as +effective in carrying Christianity to the natives as had +his evangelistic work. Although Mr. Caldwell has been +especially fortunate and has killed his tigers without +ever really hunting them, nevertheless it is a most uncertain +sport as we were destined to learn. The tiger is +the "Great Invisible"—he is everywhere and nowhere, +here today and gone tomorrow. A sportsman in China +may get his shot the first day out or he may hunt for +weeks without ever seeing a tiger even though they +are all about him; and it is this very uncertainty that +makes the game all the more fascinating.</p> + +<p>The part of Fukien Province about Futsing includes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span> +mountains of considerable height, many of which are +planted with rice and support a surprising number of +Chinese who are grouped in closely connected villages. +While the cultivated valleys afford no cover for tiger +and the mountain slopes themselves are usually more or +less denuded of forest, yet the deep and narrow ravines, +choked with sword grass and thorny bramble, offer an +impenetrable retreat in which an animal can sleep during +the day without fear of being disturbed. It is +possible for a man to make his way through these lairs +only by means of the paths and tunnels which have been +opened by the tigers themselves.</p> + +<p>Mr. Caldwell's usual method of hunting was to lead +a goat with one or two kids to an open place where +they could be fastened just outside the edge of the lair, +and then to conceal himself a few feet away. The bleating +of the goats would usually bring the tiger into the +open where there would be an opportunity for a shot +in the late afternoon.</p> + +<p>Mr. Caldwell's first experience in hunting tigers was +with a shotgun at the village of Lung-tao. His burden-bearers +had not arrived with the basket containing his +rifle, and as it was already late in the afternoon, he suggested +to Da-Da, the Chinese boy who was his constant +companion, that they make a preliminary inspection +of the lair even though they carried only shotguns loaded +with lead slugs about the size of buckshot.</p> + +<p>They tethered a goat just outside the edge of the +lair and the tiger responded to its bleating almost immediately. +Caldwell did not see the animal until it +came into the open about fifty yards away and remained +in plain view for almost half an hour. The +tiger seemed to suspect danger and crouched on the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span> +terrace, now and then putting his right foot forward +a short distance and drawing it slowly back again. He +had approached along a small trail, but before he could +reach the goat it was necessary to cross an open space +a few yards in width, and to do this the animal flattened +himself like a huge striped serpent. His head +was extended so that the throat and chin were touching +the ground, and there was absolutely no motion +of the body other than the hips and shoulders as the +beast slid along at an amazingly rapid rate. But at +the instant the cat gained the nearest cover it made +three flying leaps and landed at the foot of the terrace +upon which the goat was tied.</p> + +<p>"Just then he saw me," said Mr. Caldwell, "and +slowly pushed his great black-barred face over the edge +of the grass not fifteen feet away.</p> + +<p>"I fired point-blank at his head and neck. He leaped +into the air with the blood spurting over the grass, +and fell into a heap, but gathered himself and slid down +over the terraces. As he went I fired a second load of +slugs into his hip. He turned about, slowly climbed the +hill parallel with us, and stood looking back at me, his +face streaming with blood.</p> + +<p>"I was fumbling in my coat trying to find other +shells, but before I could reload the gun he walked +unsteadily into the lair and lay down. It was already +too dark to follow and the next morning a bloody trail +showed where he had gone upward into the grass. +Later, in the same afternoon, he was found dead by +some Chinese more than three miles away."</p> + +<p>During his many experiences with the Futsing tigers +Mr. Caldwell has learned much about their habits and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span> +peculiarities, and some of his observations are given +in the following pages.</p> + +<p>"The tiger is by instinct a coward when confronted +by his greatest enemy—man. Bold and daring as he +may be when circumstances are in his favor, he will hurriedly +abandon a fresh kill at the first cry of a shepherd +boy attending a flock on the mountain-side and will +always weigh conditions before making an attack. If +things do not exactly suit him nothing will tempt him +to charge into the open upon what may appear to be an +isolated and defenseless goat.</p> + +<p>"An experience I had in April, 1910, will illustrate +this point. I led a goat into a ravine where a tiger which +had been working havoc among the herds of the farmers +was said to live. This animal only a few days previous +to my hunt had attacked a herd of cows and killed three +of them, but on this occasion the beast must have suspected +danger and was exceedingly cautious. He advanced +under cover along a trail until within one hundred +feet of the goat and there stopped to make a survey +of the surroundings. Peering into the valley, he +saw two men at a distance of five hundred yards or +more cutting grass and, after watching intently for a +time, the great cat turned and bounded away into the +bushes.</p> + +<p>"On another occasion this tiger awaited an opportunity +to attack a cow which a farmer was using in +plowing his field. The man had unhitched his cow +and squatted down in the rice paddy to eat his mid-day +meal, when the tiger suddenly rushed from cover and +killed the animal only a few yards behind the peasant. +This shows how daring a tiger may be when he is able +to strike from the rear, and when circumstances seem +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span> +to favor an attack. I have known tigers to rush at a +dog or hog standing inside a Chinese house where there +was the usual confusion of such a dwelling, and in almost +every instance the victim was killed, although it +was not always carried away.</p> + +<p>"There is probably no creature in the wilds which +shows such a combination of daring strategy and slinking +cowardice as the tiger. Often courage fails him +after he has secured his victim, and he releases it to dash +off into the nearest wood.</p> + +<p>"I knew of two Chinese who were deer hunting on a +mountain-side when a large tiger was routed from his +bed. The beast made a rushing attack on the man +standing nearest to the path of his retreat, and seizing +him by the leg dragged him into the ravine below. +Luckily the man succeeded in grasping a small tree +whereupon the tiger released his hold, leaving his victim +lying upon the ground almost paralyzed with pain and +fear.</p> + +<p>"A group of men were gathering fuel on the hills +near Futsing when a tiger which had been sleeping in +the high grass was disturbed. The enraged beast +tinned upon the peasants, killing two of them instantly +and striking another a ripping blow with his paw which +sent him lifeless to the terrace below. The beast did +not attempt to drag either of its victims into the bush +or to attack the other persons near by.</p> + +<p>"The strength and vitality of a full grown tiger are +amazing. I had occasion to spend the night a short time +ago in a place where a tiger had performed some remarkable +feats. Just at dusk one of these marauders +visited the village and discovered a cow and her six-months-old +calf in a pen which had been excavated in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span> +the side of a hill and adjoined a house. There was no +possible way to enter the enclosure except by a door +opening from the main part of the dwelling or to descend +from above. The tiger jumped from the roof +upon the neck of the heifer, killing it instantly, and the +inmates of the house opened the door just in time to see +the animal throw the calf out bodily and leap after it +himself. I measured the embankment and found that +the exact height was twelve and a half feet.</p> + +<p>"The same tiger one noon on a foggy day attacked +a hog, just back of the village and carried it into the +hills. The villagers pursued the beast and overtook +it within half a mile. When the hog, which dressed +weighed more than two hundred pounds, was found, +it had no marks or bruises upon it other than the deep +fang wounds in the neck. This is another instance +where courage failed a tiger after he had made off with +his kill to a safe distance. The Chinese declare that +when carrying such a load a tiger never attempts to +drag its prey, but throws it across its back and races +off at top speed.</p> + +<p>"The finest trophy taken from Fukien Province in +years I shot in May, 1910. Two days previous to my +hunt this tiger had killed and eaten a sixteen-year-old +boy. I happened to be in the locality and decided to +make an attempt to dispose of the troublesome beast. +Obtaining a mother goat with two small kids, I led them +into a ravine near where the boy had been killed. The +goat was tied to a tree a short distance from the lair, +and the kids were concealed in the tall grass well in +toward the place where the tiger would probably be. +I selected a suitable spot and kneeled down behind a +bank of ferns and grass. The fact that one may be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span> +stalked by the very beast which one is hunting adds to +the excitement and keeps one's nerves on edge. I expected +that the tiger would approach stealthily as long +as he could not see the goat, as the usual plan of attack, +so far as my observation goes, is to creep up under +cover as far as possible before rushing into the open. +In any case the tiger would be within twenty yards of +me before it could be seen.</p> + +<p>"For more than two hours I sat perfectly still, alert +and waiting, behind the little blind of ferns and grass. +There was nothing to break the silence other than the +incessant bleating of the goats and the unpleasant rasping +call of the mountain jay. I had about given up hope +of a shot when suddenly the huge head of the man-eater +emerged from the bush, exactly where I had expected +he would appear and within fifteen feet of the +kids. The back, neck, and head of the beast were in +almost the same plane as he moved noiselessly forward.</p> + +<p>"I had implicit confidence in the killing power of the +gun in my hand, and at the crack of the rifle the huge +brute settled forward with hardly a quiver not ten +feet from the kids upon which he was about to spring. +A second shot was not necessary but was fired as a +matter of precaution as the tiger had fallen behind rank +grass, and the bullet passed through the shoulder blade +lodging in the spine. The beast measured more than +nine feet and weighed almost four hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>"Upon hearing the shots the villagers swarmed into +the ravine, each eager not so much to see their slain tormentor +as to gather up the blood. But little attention +was paid to the tiger until every available drop was +sopped up with rags torn from their clothing, whilst men +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span> +and children even pulled up the blood-soaked grass. I +learned that the blood of a tiger is used for two purposes. +A bit of blood-stained cloth is tied about the +neck of a child as a preventive against either measles +or smallpox, and tiger flesh is eaten for the same purpose. +It is also said that if a handkerchief stained with +tiger blood is waved in front of an attacking dog the +animal will slink away cowed and terrified.</p> + +<p>"From the Chinese point of view the skin is not the +most valuable part of a tiger. Almost always before a +hunt is made, or a trap is built, the villagers hum incense +before the temple god, and an agreement is made +to the effect that if the enterprise be successful the skin +of the beast taken becomes the property of the gods. +Thus it happens that in many of the temples handsome +tiger-skin robes may be found spread in the chair occupied +by the noted 'Duai Uong,' or the god of the +land. When a hunt is successful, the flesh and bones are +considered of greatest value, and it often happens that +a number of cows are killed and their flesh mixed with +that of the tiger to be sold at the exorbitant price cheerfully +paid for tiger meat. The bones are boiled for a +number of days until a gelatine-like product results, +and this is believed to be exceptionally efficacious medicine.</p> + +<p>"Notwithstanding the danger of still-hunting a tiger +in the tangle of its lair, one cannot but feel richly rewarded +for the risk when one begins to sum up one's +observations. The most interesting result of investigating +an oft-frequented lair is concerning the animal's +food. That a tiger always devours its prey upon the +spot where it is taken or in the adjacent bush is an +erroneous idea. This is often true when the kill is too +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span> +heavy to be carried for a long distance, but it is by no +means universally so. Not long ago the remains of a +young boy were found in a grave adjacent to a tiger's +lair a few miles from Futsing city. No child had +been reported missing in the immediate neighborhood +and everything indicated that the boy had been brought +alive to this spot from a considerable distance. The +sides of the grave were besmeared with the blood of +the unfortunate victim, indicating that the tiger had +tortured it just as a cat plays with a mouse as long as it +remains alive.</p> + +<p>"In the lair of a tiger there are certain terraces, or +places under overhanging trees, which are covered with +bones, and are evidently spots to which the animal +brings its prey to be devoured. On such a terrace one +will find the remains of deer, wild hog, dog, pig, porcupine, +pangolin, and other animals both domestic and +wild. A fresh kill shows that with its rasp-like tongue +the tiger licks off all the hair of its prey before devouring +it and the hair will be found in a circle around what +remains of the kill. The Chinese often raid a lair in +order to gather up the quills of the porcupine and the +bony scales of the pangolin which are esteemed for +medicinal purposes.</p> + +<p>"In addition to the larger animals, tigers feed upon +reptiles and frogs which they find among the rice fields. +On the night of April 22, 1914, a party of frog catchers +were returning from a hunt when the man carrying the +load of frogs was attacked by a tiger and killed. The +animal made no attempt to drag the man away and it +would appear that it was attracted by the croaking of +the frogs.</p> + +<p>"One often finds trees 'marked' by tigers beside some +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span> +trail or path in, or adjacent to, a lair. Catlike, the +tiger measures its full length upon a tree, standing in a +convenient place, and with its powerful claws rips +deeply through the bark. This sign is doubly interesting +to the sportsman as it not only indicates the presence +of a tiger in the immediate vicinity but serves to +give an accurate idea as to the size of the beast. The +trails leading into a lair often are marked in a different +way. In doing this the animal rakes away the grass +with a forepaw and gathers it into a pile, but claw +prints never appear."</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE BLUE TIGER</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">After</span> one has traveled in a Chinese <i>sampan</i> for several +days the prospect of a river journey is not very +alluring but we had a most agreeable surprise when we +sailed out of Foochow in a chartered house boat to hunt +the "blue tiger" at Futsing. In fact, we had all the +luxury of a private yacht, for our boat contained a large +central cabin with a table and chairs and two staterooms +and was manned by a captain and crew of six +men—all for $1.50 per day!</p> + +<p>In the evening we talked of the blue tiger for a long +time before we spread our beds on the roof of the +boat and went to sleep under the stars. We left the +boat shortly after daylight at Daing-nei for the six-mile +walk to Lung-tao. To my great surprise the +coolies were considerably distressed at the lightness of +our loads. In this region they are paid by weight and +some of the bearers carry almost incredible burdens. As +an example, one of our men came into camp swinging a +125-pound trunk on each end of his pole, laughing and +chatting as gayly as though he had not been carrying +250 pounds for six miles under a broiling sun.</p> + +<p>Mr. Caldwell's Chinese hunter, Da-Da, lived at +Lung-tao and we found his house to be one of several +built on the outskirts of a beautiful grove of gum and +banyan trees. Although it was exceptionally clean for +a Chinese dwelling, we pitched our tents a short +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span> +distance away. At first we were somewhat doubtful about +sleeping outside, but after one night indoors we decided +that any risk was preferable to spending another +hour in the stifling heat of the house.</p> + +<p>It was probable that a tiger would be so suspicious +of the white tents that it would not attack us, but nevertheless +during the first nights we were rather wakeful +and more than once at some strange night sound seized +our rifles and flashed the electric lamp into the darkness.</p> + +<p>Tigers often come into this village. Only a few hundred +yards from our camp site, in 1911, a tiger had +rushed into the house of one of the peasants and attempted +to steal a child that had fallen asleep at its play +under the family table. All was quiet in the house +when suddenly the animal dashed through the open +door. The Chinese declare that the gods protected +the infant, for the beast missed his prey and seizing the +leg of the table against which the baby's head was resting, +bolted through the door dragging the table into the +courtyard.</p> + +<p>This was the work of the famous "blue tiger" which +we had come to hunt and which had on two occasions +been seen by Mr. Caldwell. The first time he heard of +this strange beast was in the spring of 1910. The animal +was reported as having been seen at various places +within an area of a few miles almost simultaneously and +so mysterious were its movements that the Chinese declared +it was a spirit of the devil. After several unsuccessful +hunts Mr. Caldwell finally saw the tiger at +close range but as he was armed with only a shotgun +it would have been useless to shoot.</p> + +<p>His second view of the beast was a few weeks later +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span> +and in the same place. I will give the story in his own +words:</p> + +<p>"I selected a spot upon a hilltop and cleared away +the grass and ferns with a jack-knife for a place to tie +the goat. I concealed myself in the bushes ten feet +away to await the attack, but the unexpected happened +and the tiger approached from the rear.</p> + +<p>"When I first saw the beast he was moving stealthily +along a little trail just across a shallow ravine. I supposed, +of course, that he was trying to locate the goat +which was bleating loudly, but to my horror I saw that +he was creeping upon two boys who had entered the +ravine to cut grass. The huge brute moved along lizard-fashion +for a few yards and then cautiously lifted his +head above the grass. He was within easy springing +distance when I raised my rifle, but instantly I realized +that if I wounded the animal the boys would certainly +meet a horrible death.</p> + +<p>"Tigers are usually afraid of the human voice so +instead of firing I stepped from the bushes, yelling and +waving my arms. The huge cat, crouched for a spring, +drew back, wavered uncertainly for a moment, and then +slowly slipped away into the grass. The boys were +saved but I had lost the opportunity I had sought for +over a year.</p> + +<p>"However, I had again seen the animal about which +so many strange tales had been told. The markings +of the beast are strikingly beautiful. The ground color +is of a delicate shade of maltese, changing into light +gray-blue on the underparts. The stripes are well defined +and like those of the ordinary yellow tiger."</p> + +<p>Before I left New York Mr. Caldwell had written +me repeatedly urging me to stop at Futsing on the way +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span> +to Yün-nan to try with him for the blue tiger which +was still in the neighborhood. I was decidedly skeptical +as to its being a distinct species, but nevertheless it was +a most interesting animal and would certainly be well +worth getting.</p> + +<p>I believed then, and my opinion has since been +strengthened, that it is a partially melanistic phase of +the ordinary yellow tiger. Black leopards are common +in India and the Malay Peninsula and as only a single +individual of the blue tiger has been reported the evidence +hardly warrants the assumption that it represents +a distinct species.</p> + +<p>We hunted the animal for five weeks. The brute +ranged in the vicinity of two or three villages about +seven miles apart, but was seen most frequently near +Lung-tao. He was as elusive as a will o' the wisp, killing +a dog or goat in one village and by the time we +had hurried across the mountains appearing in another +spot a few miles away, leaving a trail of terrified natives +who flocked to our camp to recount his depredations. +He was in truth the "Great Invisible" and it +seemed impossible that we should not get him sooner or +later, but we never did.</p> + +<p>Once we missed him by a hair's breadth through sheer +bad luck, and it was only by exercising almost super-human +restraint that we prevented ourselves from doing +bodily harm to the three Chinese who ruined our hunt. +Every evening for a week we had faithfully taken a +goat into the "Long Ravine," for the blue tiger had +been seen several times near this lair. On the eighth +afternoon we were in the "blind" at three o'clock as +usual. We had tied a goat to a tree nearby and her two +kids were but a few feet away.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span></p> + +<p>The grass-filled lair lay shimmering in the breathless +heat, silent save for the echoes of the bleating goats. +Crouched behind the screen of branches, for three long +hours we sat in the patchwork shade,—motionless, +dripping with perspiration, hardly breathing,—and +watched the shadows steal slowly down the narrow +ravine.</p> + +<p>It was a wild place which seemed to have been cut +out of the mountain side with two strokes of a mighty +ax and was choked with a tangle of thorny vines and +sword grass. Impenetrable as a wall of steel, the only +entrance was by the tiger tunnels which drove their +twisting way through the murderous growth far in toward +its gloomy heart.</p> + +<p>The shadows had passed over us and just reached a +lone palm tree on the opposite hillside. By that I knew +it was six o'clock and in half an hour another day of +disappointment would be ended. Suddenly at the left +and just below us there came the faintest crunching +sound as a loose stone shifted under a heavy weight; +then a rustling in the grass. Instantly the captive goat +gave a shrill bleat of terror and tugged frantically at +the rope which held it to the tree.</p> + +<p>At the first sound Harry had breathed in my ear +"Get ready, he's coming." I was half kneeling with my +heavy .405 Winchester pushed forward and the hammer +up. The blood drummed in my ears and my neck +muscles ached with the strain but I thanked Heaven +that my hands were steady.</p> + +<p>Caldwell sat like a graven image, the stock of his +little 22 caliber high power Savage nestling against his +cheek. Our eyes met for an instant and I knew in that +glance that the blue tiger would never make another +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span> +charge, for if I missed him, Harry wouldn't. For ten +minutes we waited and my heart lost a beat when twenty +feet away the grass began to move again—but rapidly +and <i>up the ravine</i>.</p> + +<p>I saw Harry watching the lair with a puzzled look +which changed to one of disgust as a chorus of yells +sounded across the ravine and three Chinese wood cutters +appeared on the opposite slope. They were taking +a short cut home, shouting to drive away the tigers—and +they had succeeded only too well, for the blue +tiger had slipped back to the heart of the lair from +whence he had come.</p> + +<p>He had been nearly ours and again we had lost him! +I felt so badly that I could not even swear and it wasn't +the fact that Harry was a missionary which kept me +from it, either. Caldwell exclaimed just once, for his +disappointment was even more bitter than mine; he had +been hunting this same tiger off and on for six years.</p> + +<p>It was useless for us to wait longer that evening and +we pushed our way through the sword grass to the entrance +of the tunnel down which the tiger had come. +There in the soft earth were the great footprints where +he had crouched at the entrance to take a cautious +survey before charging into the open.</p> + +<p>As we looked, Harry suddenly turned to me and said: +"Roy, let's go into the lair. There is just one chance +in a thousand that we may get a shot." Now I must +admit that I was not very enthusiastic about that little +excursion, but in we went, crawling on our hands and +knees up the narrow passage. Every few feet we passed +side branches from the main tunnel in any one of which +the tiger might easily have been lying in wait and +could have killed us as we passed. It was a foolhardy +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span> +thing to do and I am free to admit that I was scared. +It was not long before Harry twisted about and said: +"Roy, I haven't lost any tigers in here; let's get out." +And out we came faster than we went in.</p> + +<p>This was only one of the times when the "Great +Invisible" was almost in our hands. A few days later +a Chinese found the blue tiger asleep under a rice bank +early in the afternoon. Frightened almost to death he +ran a mile and a half to our camp only to find that +we had left half an hour before for another village +where the brute had killed two wild cats early in the +morning.</p> + +<p>Again, the tiger pushed open the door of a house at +daybreak just as the members of the family were getting +up, stole a dog from the "heaven's well," dragged +it to a hillside and partly devoured it. We were in camp +only a mile away and our Chinese hunters found the +carcass on a narrow ledge in the sword grass high up +on the mountain side. The spot was an impossible +one to watch and we set a huge grizzly bear trap which +had been carried with us from New York.</p> + +<p>It seemed out of the question for any animal to return +to the carcass of the dog without getting caught +and yet the tiger did it. With his hind quarters on the +upper terrace he dropped down, stretched his long neck +across the trap, seized the dog which had been wired +to a tree and pulled it away. It was evident that he +was quite unconscious of the trap for his fore feet had +actually been placed upon one of the jaws only two +inches from the pan which would have sprung it.</p> + +<p>One afternoon we responded to a call from Bui-tao, +a village seven miles beyond Lung-tao, where the blue +tiger had been seen that day. The natives assured us +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span> +that the animal continually crossed a hill, thickly +clothed with pines and sword grass just above the village +and even though it was late when we arrived Harry +thought it wise to set the trap that night.</p> + +<p>It was pitch dark before we reached the ridge carrying +the trap, two lanterns, an electric flash-lamp and a +wretched little dog for bait. We had been engaged for +about fifteen minutes making a pen for the dog, and +Caldwell and I were on our knees over the trap when +suddenly a low rumbling growl came from the grass +not twenty feet away. We jumped to our feet just as +it sounded again, this time ending in a snarl. The tiger +had arrived a few moments too early and we were in +the rather uncomfortable position of having to return +to the village by way of a narrow trail through the +jungle. With our rifles ready and the electric lamp +cutting a brilliant path in the darkness we walked slowly +toward the edge of the sword grass hoping to see the +flash of the tiger's eyes, but the beast backed off beyond +the range of the light into an impenetrable tangle where +we could not follow. Apparently he was frightened by +the lantern, for we did not hear him again.</p> + +<p>After nearly a month of disappointments such as +these Mr. Heller joined us at Bui-tao with Mr. Kellogg. +Caldwell thought it advisable to shift camp to the +Ling-suik monastery, about twelve miles away, where +he had once spent a summer with his family and had +killed several tigers. This was within the blue tiger's +range and, moreover, had the advantage of offering a +better general collecting ground than Bui-tao; thus with +Heller to look after the small mammals we could begin +to make our time count for something if we did not get +the tiger.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span></p> + +<p>Ling-suik is a beautiful temple, or rather series of +temples, built into a hillside at the end of a long narrow +valley which swells out like a great bowl between bamboo +clothed mountains, two thousand feet in height. On +his former visit Mr. Caldwell had made friends with the +head priest and we were allowed to establish ourselves +upon the broad porch of the third and highest building. +It was an ideal place for a collecting camp and +would have been delightful except for the terrible heat +which was rendered doubly disagreeable by the almost +continual rain.</p> + +<p>The priests who shuffled about the temples were a +hard lot. Most of them were fugitives from justice and +certainly looked the part, for a more disreputable, diseased +and generally undesirable body of men I have +never seen.</p> + +<p>Our stay at Ling-suik was productive and the temple +life interesting. We slept on the porch and each morning, +about half an hour before daylight, the measured +strokes of a great gong sounded from the temple just +below us. <i>Boom—boom—boom—boom</i> it went, then +rapidly <i>bang, bang, bang</i>. It was a religious alarm +clock to rouse the world.</p> + +<p>A little later when the upturned gables and twisted +dolphins on the roof had begun to take definite shape in +the gray light of the new day, the gong boomed out +again, doors creaked, and from their cell-like rooms +shuffled the priests to yawn and stretch themselves before +the early service. The droning chorus of hoarse +voices, swelling in a meaningless half-wild chant, harmonized +strangely with the romantic surroundings of +the temple and become our daily <i>matin</i> and evensong.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f62a" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f62a.png" width="286" height="359" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Ling-suik Monastery</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f62b" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f62b.png" width="286" height="355" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Priest of Ling-suik</span></div> +</div> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span></p> + +<p>At the first gong we slipped from beneath our +mosquito nets and dressed to be ready for the bats which +fluttered into the building to hide themselves beneath +the tiles and rafters. When daylight had fully come we +scattered to the four winds of heaven to inspect traps, +hunt barking deer, or collect birds, but gathered again +at nine o'clock for breakfast and to deposit our spoil. +Caldwell and I always spent the afternoon at the blue +tiger's lair but the animal had suddenly shifted his +operations back to Lung-tao and did not appear at +Ling-suik while we were there.</p> + +<p>Our work in Fukien taught us much that may be of +help to other naturalists who contemplate a visit to this +province. We satisfied ourselves that summer collecting +is impracticable, for the heat is so intense and the +vegetation so heavy that only meager results can be obtained +for the efforts expended. Continual tramping +over the mountains in the blazing sun necessarily must +have its effect upon the strongest constitution, and even +a man like Mr. Caldwell, who has become thoroughly +acclimated, is not immune.</p> + +<p>Both Caldwell and I lost from fifteen to twenty +pounds in weight during the time we hunted the blue +tiger and each of us had serious trouble from abscesses. +I have never worked in a more trying climate—even +that of Borneo and the Dutch East Indies where I collected +in 1909-10, was much less debilitating than +Fukien in the summer. The average temperature was +about 95 degrees in the shade, but the humidity was so +high that one felt as though one were wrapped in a wet +blanket and even during a six weeks' rainless period +the air was saturated with moisture from the sea-winds.</p> + +<p>In winter the weather is raw and damp, but collecting +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span> +then would be vastly easier than in summer, not only on +account of climatic conditions, but because much of the +vegetation disappears and there is an opportunity for +"still hunting."</p> + +<p>Trapping for small mammal is especially difficult because +of the dense population. The mud dykes and the +rice fields usually are covered with tracks of civets, mongooses, +and cats which come to hunt frogs or fish, but if +a trap is set it either catches a Chinaman or promptly +is stolen. Moreover, the small mammals are neither +abundant nor varied in number of species, and the larger +forms, such as tiger, leopard, wild pig and serow are exceedingly +difficult to kill.</p> + +<p>While our work in the province was done during an +unfavorable season and in only two localities, yet enough +was seen of the general conditions to make it certain +that a thorough zoölogical study of the region would +require considerable time and hard work and that the +results, so far as a large collection of mammals is concerned, +would not be highly satisfactory. Work in the +western part of the province among the Bohea Hills +undoubtedly would be more profitable, but even there +it would be hardly worth while for an expedition with +limited time and money.</p> + +<p>Bird life is on a much better footing, but the ornithology +of Fukien already has received considerable attention +through the collections of Swinhoe, La Touche, +Styan, Ricketts, Caldwell and others, and probably not +a great number of species remain to be described.</p> + +<p>Much work could still be done upon the herpetology +of the region, however, and I believe that this branch of +zoölogy would be well worth investigation for reptiles +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span> +and batrachians are fairly abundant and the natives +would rather assist than retard one's efforts.</p> + +<p>The language of Fukien is a greater annoyance than +in any other of the Chinese coast provinces. The Foochow +dialect (which is one of the most difficult to learn) +is spoken only within fifty or one hundred miles of the +city. At Yen-ping Mr. Caldwell, who speaks "Foochow" +perfectly, could not understand a word of the +"southern mandarin" which is the language of that +region, and near Futsing, where a colony of natives +from Amoy have settled, the dialect is unintelligible to +one who knows only "Foochow."</p> + +<p>Travel in Fukien is an unceasing trial, for transport +is entirely by coolies who carry from eighty to one hundred +pounds. The men are paid by distance or weight; +therefore, when coolies finally have been obtained there +is the inevitable wrangling over loads so that from one +to two hours are consumed before the party can start.</p> + +<p>But the worst of it is that one can never be certain +when one's entire outfit will arrive at its new destination. +Some men walk much faster than others, some will delay +a long time for tea, or may give out altogether if +the day be hot, with the result that the last load will +arrive perhaps five or six hours after the first one.</p> + +<p>As horses are not to be had, if one does not walk the +only alternative is to be carried in a mountain chair, +which is an uncomfortable, trapeze-like affair and only +to be found along the main highways. On the whole, +transport by man-power in China is so uncertain and +expensive that for a large expedition it forms a grave +obstacle to successful work, if time and funds be limited.</p> + +<p>On the other hand, servants are cheap and usually +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span> +good. We employed a very fair cook who received +monthly seven dollars Mexican (then about three and +one-half dollars gold), and "boys" were hired at from +five to seven dollars (Mexican). As none of the servants +knew English they could be obtained at much lower +wages, but English-speaking cooks usually receive from +fifteen to twenty dollars (Mexican) a month.</p> + +<p>It was hard to leave Fukien without the blue tiger +but we had hunted him unsuccessfully for five weeks +and there was other and more important work awaiting +us in Yün-nan. It required thirty porters to transport +our baggage from the Ling-suik monastery to Daing-nei, +twenty-one miles away, where two houseboats were +to meet us, and by ten o'clock in the evening we were +lying off Pagoda Anchorage awaiting the flood tide to +take us to Foochow. We made our beds on the deck +house and in the morning opened our eyes to find the +boat tied to the wharf at the Custom House on the +Bund, and ourselves in full view of all Foochow had it +been awake at that hour.</p> + +<p>The week of packing and repacking that followed was +made easy for us by Claude Kellogg, who acted as our +ministering angel. I think there must be a special +Providence that watches over wandering naturalists and +directs them to such men as Kellogg, for without divine +aid they could never be found. When we last saw him, +he stood on the stone steps of the water front waving +his hat as we slipped away on the tide, to board the +S. S. <i>Haitan</i> for Hongkong.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE WOMEN OF CHINA</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> schools for native girls at Foochow and Yen-ping +interested us greatly, even when we first came to +China, but we could not appreciate then as we did later +the epoch-making step toward civilization of these institutions.</p> + +<p>How much the missionaries are able to accomplish +from a religious standpoint is a question which we do +not wish to discuss, but no one who has ever lived among +them can deny that the opening of schools and the diffusing +of western knowledge are potent factors in the +development of the people. The Chinese were not slow +even in the beginning to see the advantages of a foreign +education for their boys and now, along the coast at +least, some are beginning to make sacrifices for their +daughters as well. The Woman's College, which was +opened recently in Foochow, is one of the finest buildings +of the Republic, and when one sees its bright-faced +girls dressed in their quaint little pajama-like garments, +it is difficult to realize that outside such schools they are +still slaves in mind and body to those iron rules of Confucius +which have molded the entire structure of Chinese +society for over 2400 years.</p> + +<p>The position of women in China today, and the rules +which govern the household of every orthodox Chinese, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span> +are the direct heritage of Confucianism. The following +translation by Professor J. Legge from the <i>Narratives +of the Confucian School</i>, chapter 26, is illuminating:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Confucius said: "Man is the representative of heaven and +is supreme over all things. Woman yields obedience to the instructions +of man and helps to carry out his principles. On +this account she can determine nothing of herself and is subject +to the rule of the three obediences.</p> + +<p>"(1) When young she must obey her father and her elder +brother;</p> + +<p>"(2) When married, she must obey her husband;</p> + +<p>"(3) When her husband is dead she must obey her son.</p> + +<p>"She may not think of marrying a second time. No instructions +or orders must issue from the harem. Women's +business is simply the preparation and supplying of drink and +food. Beyond the threshold of her apartments she shall not be +known for evil or for good. She may not cross the boundaries +of a state to attend a funeral. She may take no steps on her +own motive and may come to no conclusion on her own deliberation."</p> + +<p>The grounds for divorce as stated by Confucius are:</p> + +<p>"(1) Disobedience to her husband's parents;</p> + +<p>"(2) Not giving birth to a son;</p> + +<p>"(3) Dissolute conduct;</p> + +<p>"(4) Jealousy of her husband's attentions (to the other inmates +of his harem);</p> + +<p>"(5) Talkativeness, and</p> + +<p>"(6) Thieving."</p> +</div> + +<p>A Chinese bride owes implicit obedience to her +mother-in-law, and as she is often reared by her husband's +family, or else married to him as a mere child, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span> +and is under the complete control of his mother for a +considerable period of her existence, her life in many +instances is one of intolerable misery. There is generally +little or no consideration for a girl under the best +of circumstances until she becomes the mother of a male +child; her condition then improves but she approaches +happiness only when she in turn occupies the enviable +position of mother-in-law.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to imagine a life of greater dreariness +and vacuity than that of the average Chinese woman. +Owing to her bound feet and resultant helplessness, if +she is not obliged to work she rarely stirs from the narrow +confinement of her courtyard, and perhaps in her +entire life she may not go a mile from the house to +which she was brought a bride, except for the periodical +visits to her father's home.</p> + +<p>It has been aptly said that there are no real homes in +China and it is not surprising that, ignored and despised +for centuries, the Chinese woman shows no ability to +improve the squalor of her surroundings. She passes +her life in a dark, smoke-filled dwelling with broken +furniture and a mud floor, together with pigs, chickens +and babies enjoying a limited sphere of action under the +tables and chairs, or in the tumble-down courtyard without. +Her work is actually never done and a Chinese +bride, bright and attractive at twenty, will be old and +faded at thirty.</p> + +<p>But without doubt the crowning evil which attends +woman's condition in China is foot binding, and nothing +can be offered in extenuation of this abominable custom. +It is said to have originated one thousand years +before the Christian era and has persisted until the present +day in spite of the efforts directed against it. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span> +Empress Dowager issued edicts strongly advising its +discontinuation, the "Natural Foot Society," which was +formed about fifteen years ago, has endeavored to educate +public opinion, and the missionaries refuse to admit +girls so mutilated to their schools; but nevertheless the +reform has made little progress beyond the coast cities. +"Precedent" and the fear of not obtaining suitable husbands +for their daughters are responsible for the continuation +of the evil, and it is estimated that there are +still about seventy-four millions of girls and women who +are crippled in this way.</p> + +<p>The feet are bandaged between the ages of five and +seven. The toes are bent under the sole of the foot +and after two or three years the heel and instep are so +forced together that a dollar can be placed in the cleft; +gradually also the lower limbs shrink away until only +the bones remain.</p> + +<p>The suffering of the children is intense. We often +passed through streets full of laughing boys and tiny +girls where others, a few years older, were sitting on the +doorsteps or curbstones holding their tortured feet and +crying bitterly. In some instances out-houses are constructed +a considerable distance from the family dwelling +where the girls must sleep during their first crippled +years in order that their moans may not disturb the +other members of the family. The child's only relief +is to hang her feet over the edge of the bed in order to +stop the circulation and induce numbness, or to seek +oblivion from opium.</p> + +<p>If the custom were a fad which affected only the +wealthy classes it would be reprehensible enough, but +it curses rich and poor alike, and almost every day we +saw heavily laden coolie women steadying themselves +by means of a staff, hobbling stiff-kneed along the roads +or laboring in the fields.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f70a" style="width: 283px;"> + <img src="images/img_f70a.png" width="283" height="358" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Mother with Her Children</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f70b" style="width: 276px;"> + <img src="images/img_f70b.png" width="276" height="354" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Chinese Women of the Coolie Class +with Bound Feet</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">- 71 -</span></p> + +<p>Although the agitation against foot binding is undoubtedly +making itself felt to a certain extent in the +coast provinces, in Yün-nan the horrible practice continues +unabated. During the year in which we traveled +through a large part of the province, wherever there +were Chinese we saw bound feet. And the fact that +virtually <i>every</i> girl over eight years old was mutilated in +this way is satisfactory evidence that reform ideas have +not penetrated to this remote part of the Republic.</p> + +<p>I know of nothing which so rouses one's indignation +because of its senselessness and brutality, and China can +never hope to take her place among civilized nations +until she has abandoned this barbarous custom and liberated +her women from their infamous subjection.</p> + +<p>There has been much criticism of foreign education +because the girls who have had its advantages absorb +western ideas so completely that they dislike to return +to their homes where the ordinary conditions of a +Chinese household exist. Nevertheless, if the women of +China are ever to be emancipated it must come through +their own education as well as that of the men.</p> + +<p>One of the first results of foreign influence is to delay +marriage, and in some instances the early betrothal with +its attendant miseries. The evil which results from this +custom can hardly be overestimated. It happens not +infrequently that two children are betrothed in infancy, +the respective families being in like circumstances at the +time. The opportunity perhaps is offered to the girl to +attend school and she may even go through college, but +an inexorable custom brings her back to her parents' +home, forces her to submit to the engagement made in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">- 72 -</span> +babyhood and perhaps ruins her life through marriage +with a man of no higher social status or intelligence than +a coolie.</p> + +<p>Among the few girls imbued with western civilization +a spirit of revolt is slowly growing, and while it is impossible +for them to break down the barriers of ages, yet in +many instances they waive aside what would seem an unsurmountable +precedent and insist upon having some +voice in the choosing of their husbands.</p> + +<p>While in Yen-ping we were invited to attend the semi-foreign +wedding of a girl who had been brought up in the +Woman's School and who was qualified to be a "Bible +Woman" or native Christian teacher. It was whispered +that she had actually met her betrothed on several occasions, +but on their wedding day no trace of recognition +was visible, and the marriage was performed with all the +punctilious Chinese observances compatible with a Christian +ceremony.</p> + +<p>Precedent required of this little bride, although she +might have been radiantly happy at heart, and undoubtedly +was, to appear tearful and shrinking and as she was +escorted up the aisle by her bridesmaid one might have +thought she was being led to slaughter. White is not becoming +to the Chinese and besides it is a sign of mourning, +so she had chosen pink for her wedding gown and +had a brilliant pink veil over her carefully oiled hair.</p> + +<p>After the ceremony the bride and bridegroom proceeded +downstairs to the joyous strain of the wedding +march, but with nothing joyous in their demeanor—in +fact they appeared like two wooden images at the reception +and endured for over an hour the stares and loud +criticism of the guests. He assumed during the ordeal +a look of bored indifference while the little bride sat with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">- 73 -</span> +her head bowed on her breast, apparently terror stricken. +But once she raised her face and I saw a merry twinkle +in her shining black eyes that made me realize that perhaps +it wasn't all quite so frightful as she would have us +believe. I often wonder what sort of a life she is leading +in her far away Chinese courtyard.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">- 74 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">VOYAGING TO YÜN-NAN</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had a busy week in Hongkong outfitting for our +trip to Yün-nan. Hongkong is one of the best cities in +the Orient in which to purchase supplies of almost any +kind, for not only is the selection excellent, but the best +English goods can be had for prices very little in excess +of those in London itself.</p> + +<p>The system which we used in our commissary was that +of the unit food box which has been adopted by most +large expeditions. The boxes were packed to weigh +seventy pounds each and contained all the necessary +staple supplies for three persons for one week; thus only +one box needed to be opened at a time, and, moreover, if +the party separated for a few days a single box could be +taken without the necessity of repacking and with the assurance +that sufficient food would be available.</p> + +<p>Our supplies consisted largely of flour, butter, sugar, +coffee, milk, bacon, and marmalade, and but little tinned +meat, vegetables, or fruit because we were certain to be +able to obtain a plentiful supply of such food in the +country through which we were expecting to travel.</p> + +<p>Our tents were brought from New York and were +made of light Egyptian cotton thoroughly waterproof, +but we also purchased in Hongkong a large army tent +for the servants and two canvas flies to protect loads and +specimens. We used sleeping bags and folding cots, +tables and chairs, for when an expedition expects to remain +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">- 75 -</span> +in the field for a long time it is absolutely necessary +to be as comfortable as possible and to live well; +otherwise one cannot work at one's highest efficiency.</p> + +<p>For clothing we all wore khaki or "Dux-back" suits +with flannel shirts and high leather shoes for mountain +climbing, and we had light rubber automobile shirts and +rubber caps for use in rainy weather. The auto shirt is +a long, loose robe which slips over the head and fastens +about the neck and, when one is sitting upon a horse, can +be so spread about as to cover all exposed parts of the +body; it is especially useful and necessary, and hip +rubber boots are also very comfortable during the rainy +season.</p> + +<p>Our traps for catching small mammals were +brought from New York. We had two sizes of wooden +"Out of Sight" for mice and rats, and four or five sizes +of Oneida steel traps for catching medium sized animals +such as civets and polecats. We also carried a half +dozen No. 5 wolf traps. Mr. Heller had used this size +in Africa and found that they were large enough even +to hold lions.</p> + +<p>Mr. Heller carried a 250-300 Savage rifle, while I +used a 6½ mm. Mannlicher and a .405 Winchester. All +of these guns were eminently satisfactory, but the choice +of a rifle is a very personal matter and every sportsman +has his favorite weapon. We found, however, that a flat +trajectory high-power rifle such as those with which we +were armed was absolutely essential for many of our +shots were at long range and we frequently killed gorals +at three hundred yards or over.</p> + +<p>The camera equipment consisted of two 3A Kodaks, +a Graphic 4 × 5 tripod camera, and Graflex 4 × 5 for +rapid work. We have found after considerable field +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">- 76 -</span> +experience that the 4 × 5 is the most convenient size to +handle, for the plate is large enough and can be obtained +more readily than any other in different parts of the +world. The same applies to the 3A Kodak "post-card" +size film, for there are few places where foreign goods +are carried that 3A films cannot be purchased.</p> + +<p>All of our plates and films were sealed in air-tight tin +boxes before we left America, and thus the material was +in perfect condition when the cans were opened. We +used plates almost altogether in the finer photographic +work, for although they are heavier and more difficult to +handle than films, nevertheless the results obtained are +very superior. A collapsible rubber dark room about +seven feet high and four feet in diameter was an indispensable +part of the camera equipment. This tent was +made for us by the Abercrombie & Fitch Company, of +New York, and could be hung from the limb of a tree or +the rafters of a building and be ready for use in five +minutes.</p> + +<p>The motion pictures were taken with a Universal +camera, and like all other negatives were developed in +the field by means of a special apparatus which had been +designed by Mr. Carl Akeley of the American Museum +of Natural History. This work required a much larger +space than that of the portable dark room and we consequently +had a tent made of red cloth which could be tied +inside of our ordinary sleeping tent.</p> + +<p>Our equipment was packed in fiber army trunks and +in wooden boxes with sliding tops. The latter arrangement +is especially desirable in Yün-nan, for the loads can +be opened without being untied from the saddle, thus +saving a considerable amount of time and trouble.</p> + +<p>It was by no means an easy matter to get our supplies +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">- 77 -</span> +together, but the Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong +pushed the making and packing of our boxes in a +remarkably efficient manner; as the manager of one of +their departments expressed it, "the one way to hurry a +Chinaman is to get more Chinamen," and they put a +small army at work upon our material, which was ready +for shipment in just a week.</p> + +<p>While in Hongkong we were joined by Wu Hung-tao, +of Shanghai, who acted as interpreter and "head +boy" as well as a general field manager of the expedition. +He formerly had been in the employ of Mr. F. W. Cary, +when the latter was Commissioner of Customs in Teng-yueh, +Yün-nan, and he was educated at the Anglo-Chinese +College of Foochow. Wu proved to be the most +efficient and trustworthy servant whom we have ever +employed, and the success of our work was due in no +small degree to his efforts.</p> + +<p>We left for Tonking on the S. S. <i>Sung-kiang</i>, commanded +by Harry Trowbridge, a congenial and well-read +gentleman whose delightful personality contributed +much toward making our week's stay on his +ship most pleasant. On our way to Haiphong the +vessel stopped at the island of Hainan and anchored +about three miles off the town of Hoi-hau. This +island is 90 by 150 miles long, is mountainous in its center, +but flat and uninteresting at the northwest.</p> + +<p>A large part of the island is unexplored and in the interior +there is a mountain called "the Five Fingers" +which has never been ascended, for it is reported that the +hill tribes are unfriendly and that the tropical valleys +are reeking with deadly malaria. The island undoubtedly +would prove to be a rich field for zoölogical work as +is shown by the collections which the American Museum +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">- 78 -</span> +of Natural History has already received from a native +dealer; these include monkeys, squirrels, and other small +mammals, and bears, leopards, and deer are said to be +among its fauna.</p> + +<p>The next night's steaming brought us to the city of +Paik-hoi on the mainland. In the afternoon we went +ashore with Captain Trowbridge to visit Dr. Bradley of +the China Inland Mission who is in charge of a leper hospital, +which is a model of its kind. The doctor was away +but we made ourselves at home and when he returned he +found us in his drawing room comfortably enjoying afternoon +tea. He remarked that he knew of a Chinese +cook who was looking for a position, and half an hour +later, while we were watching some remarkably fine +tennis, the cook arrived. He was about six feet two +inches high, and so thin that he was immediately christened +the "Woolworth Building" and, although not a +very prepossessing looking individual he was forthwith +engaged, principally because of his ability to speak English. +This was at six o'clock in the afternoon and we had +to be aboard the ship at eight. The doctor sent a note to +the French Consul and the cook returned anon with his +baggage and passport. Obtaining this cook was the +only really rapid thing which I have ever seen done in +China!</p> + +<p>When the <i>Sung-kiang</i> arrived in Haiphong the next +afternoon we were besieged by a screaming, fighting mob +of Annamits who seized upon our baggage like so many +vultures, and it was only by means of a few well-directed +kicks that we could prevent it from being scattered to +the four winds of Heaven. After we had designated a +<i>sampan</i> to receive our equipment the unloading began +and several trunks had gone over the side, when Mr. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">- 79 -</span> +Heller happened to glance down just in time to see one +of the ammunition boxes drop into the water and sink +like lead. The Annamits, believing that it had not been +noticed, went on as blithely as before and volubly denied +that anything had been lost. We stopped the unloading +instantly and sent for divers. The box had sunk in thirty +feet of muddy water and it seemed useless to hope that +it could ever be recovered, but the divers went to work +by dropping a heavy stone on the end of a rope and going +down it hand over hand.</p> + +<p>After two hours the box was located and brought dripping +to the surface. Fortunately but little of the ammunition +was ruined, and most of it was dried during the +night in the engine room. Because of this delay we had +to leave Haiphong on the following day, and with Captain +Trowbridge, we went by train to Hanoi, the capital +of the colony.</p> + +<p>Hanoi is a city of delightful surprises. It has broad, +clean streets, overhung with trees which often form a cool +green canopy overhead, beautiful lawns and well-kept +houses, and in the center of the town is a lovely lake +surrounded by a wide border of palms. At the far end, +like a jewel in a crystal setting, seems to float a white +pagoda, an outpost of the temple which stands in the +midst of a watery meadow of lotus plants. The city +shops are excellent, but in most instances the prices are +exceedingly high.</p> + +<p>Like all the French towns in the Orient the hours for +work are rather confusing to the foreigner. The shops +open at 6:30 in the morning and close at 11 o'clock to reopen +again at 8 in the afternoon and continue business +until 7:30 or 8 o'clock in the evening. During the middle +of the day all houses have the shutters closely drawn, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">- 80 -</span> +and because of the intense heat and glare of the sun the +streets are absolutely deserted, not even a native being +visible. In the morning a <i>petit déjeuner</i>, remarkable especially +for its "petitness," is served, and a real <i>déjeuner</i> +comes later anywhere from 10 to 12:30.</p> + +<p>About 6 o'clock in the evening the open <i>cafés</i> and restaurants +along the sidewalk are lined with groups of +men and women playing cards and dice and drinking gin +and bitters, vermouth or absinthe. There is an air of +happiness and life about Hanoi which is typically Parisian +and even during war time it is a city of gayety. An +immense theater stands in the center of the town, but has +not been opened since the beginning of the war.</p> + +<p>We had letters to M. Chemin Dupontès, the director +of the railroads, as well as to the Lieutenant-Governor +and other officials. Without exception we were received +in the most cordial manner and every facility and convenience +put at our disposal. M. Dupontès was especially helpful.</p> + +<p>Some time before our arrival a tunnel on the railroad +from Hanoi to Yün-nan Fu had caved in and for almost +a month trains had not been running. It was now in operation, +however, but all luggage had to be transferred +by hand at the broken tunnel and consequently must not +exceed eighty-five pounds in weight. This meant repacking +our entire equipment and three days of hard +work. M. Dupontès arranged to have our 4000 pounds +of baggage put in a special third class carriage with our +"boys" in attendance and in this way saved the expedition +a considerable amount of money. He personally +went with us to the station to arrange for our comfort +with the <i>chef de gare</i>, telegraphed ahead at every station +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">- 81 -</span> +upon the railroad, and gave us an open letter to all officials; +in fact there was nothing which he left undone.</p> + +<p>The railroad is a remarkable engineering achievement +for it was constructed in great haste through a difficult +mountainous range. Yün-nan is an exceedingly rich +province and the French were quick to see the advantages +of drawing its vast trade to their own seaports. +The British were already making surveys to construct +a railroad from Bhamo on the headwaters of the Irawadi +River across Yün-nan to connect with the Yangtze, and +the French were anxious to have their road in operation +some time before the rival line could be completed.</p> + +<p>Owing to its hasty construction and the heavy rainfall, +or perhaps to both, the tunnels and bridges frequently +cave in or are washed away and the railroad is +chiefly remarkable for the number of days in the year in +which it does not operate; nevertheless the French deserve +great credit for their enterprise in extending their +line to Yün-nan Fu over the mountains where there is a +tunnel or bridge almost every mile of the way. While it +was being built through the fever-stricken jungles of +Tonking the coolies died like flies, and it was necessary +to suspend all work during the summer months.</p> + +<p>The scenery along the railroad is marvelous and the +traveling is by no means uncomfortable, but the hotels +in which one stops at night are wretched. One of our +friends in Hongkong related an amusing experience +which he had at Lao-kay, the first hotel on the railroad. +He asked for a bath and discovered that a tub of hot +water had been prepared. He wished a cold bath, and +seeing a large tank filled with cold water in the corner of +the room he climbed in and was enjoying himself when +the hotel proprietor suddenly rushed upstairs exclaiming, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">- 82 -</span> +"Mon Dieu, Mon Dieu, you are in the tank of +drinking water."</p> + +<p>When we arrived at Yün-nan Fu we found a surprisingly +cosmopolitan community housed within its grim +old walls; some were consuls, some missionaries, some +salt, telegraph, or customs officials in the Chinese employ, +and others represented business firms in Hongkong, +but all received us with open-handed hospitality +characteristic of the East.</p> + +<p>We thought that after leaving Hongkong our evening +clothes would not again be used, but they were requisitioned +every night for we were guests at dinners given +by almost everyone of the foreign community. Mr. +Howard Page, a representative of the Standard Oil +Company, proved a most valuable friend, and through +him we were able to obtain a caravan and make other arrangements +for the transportation of our baggage. M. +Henry Wilden, the French Consul, an ardent sportsman +and a charming gentleman, took an active interest in our +affairs and arranged a meeting for us with the Chinese +Commissioner of Foreign Affairs. Moreover, he later +transported our trunks to Hongkong with his personal +baggage and assisted us in every possible way.</p> + +<p>We went to the Foreign Office at half past ten and +were ushered into a large room where a rather imposing +lunch had already been spread. The Commissioner, a +fat, jolly little man, who knew a few words of French +but none of English, received us in the most cordial way +and immediately opened several bottles of champagne in +our honor. He asked why our passports had not been +viséd in Peking, and we pleased him greatly by replying +that at the time we were in the capital Yün-nan was an +independent province and consequently the Peking Government +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">- 83 -</span> +had not the temerity to put their stamp upon +our passports.</p> + +<p>Inasmuch as Yün-nan was infested with brigands we +had expected some opposition to our plans for traveling +in the interior, but none was forthcoming, and with the +exception of an offer of a guard of soldiers for our trip +to Ta-li Fu which we knew it would be impolitic to refuse, +we left the Foreign Office with all the desired +permits.</p> + +<p>The Chinese Government appeared to be greatly interested +in our zoölogical study of Yün-nan, offered to +assist us in every way we could suggest, and telegraphed +to every mandarin in the north and west of the province, +instructing them to receive us with all honor and to facilitate +our work in every way. None of the opposition +which we had been led to expect developed, and it is difficult +to see how we could have been more cordially received.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">- 84 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">ON THE ROAD TO TA-LI FU</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> August 6, we dispatched half our equipment to +Ta-li Fu, and three days later we ourselves left Yün-nan +Fu at eleven o'clock in the morning after an interminable +wait for our caravan. Through the kindness +of Mr. Page, a house boat was put at our disposal and +we sailed across the upper end of the beautiful lake +which lies just outside the city, and intercepted the caravan +twenty-five <i>li</i><a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> from Yün-nan Fu.</p> + +<p>On the way we passed a number of cormorant fishers, +each with ten or a dozen birds sitting quietly upon the +boat with outspread wings drying their feathers. Every +bird has a ring about its neck, and is thus prevented +from swallowing the fish which it catches by diving into +the water.</p> + +<p>After waiting an hour for our caravan we saw the +long train of mules and horses winding up the hill +toward us. There were seventeen altogether, and in +the midst of them rode the cook clinging desperately +with both hands to a diminutive mule, his long legs +dangling and a look of utter wretchedness upon his +face. Just before the caravan reached us it began to +rain, and the cook laboriously pulled on a suit of yellow +oilskins which we had purchased for him in Yün-nan +Fu. These, together with a huge yellow hat, completed +a picture which made us roar with laughter; +Heller gave the caption for it when he shouted, "Here +comes the 'Yellow Peril.'"</p> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> A <i>li</i> in this province equals one-third of an English mile.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f84a" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f84a.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Cormorant Fishers on the Lake at Yün-nan Fu</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f84b" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f84b.png" width="365" height="287" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp at Chou Chou on the Way to Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">- 85 -</span></p> + +<p>We surveyed the tiny horses with dismay. As Heller +vainly tried to get his girth tight enough to keep the +saddle from sliding over the animal's tail he exclaimed, +"Is this a horse or a squirrel I'm trying to ride?" But +it was not so bad when we finally climbed aboard and +found that we did not crush the little brutes.</p> + +<p>A seventy-pound box on each side of the saddle with +a few odds and ends on top made a pack of at least +one hundred and sixty pounds. This is heavy even for +a large animal and for these tiny mules seemed an impossibility, +but it is the usual weight, and the business-like +way in which they moved off showed that they +were not overloaded.</p> + +<p>The Yün-nan pack saddle is a remarkably ingenious +arrangement. The load is strapped with a rawhide to +a double A-shaped frame which fits loosely over a second +saddle on the animal's back and is held in place +by its own weight. If a mule falls the pack comes off +and, moreover, it can be easily removed if the road is +bad or whenever a stop is made. It has the great disadvantage, +however, of giving the horses serious back +sores which receive but scanty attention from the <i>mafus</i> +(muleteers).</p> + +<p>When we were fairly started upon our long ride to +Ta-li Fu the time slipped by in a succession of delightful +days. Since this was the main caravan route the +<i>mafus</i> had regular stages beyond which they would not +go. If we did not stop for luncheon the march could +be ended early in the afternoon and we could settle +ourselves for the night in a temple which always proved +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">- 86 -</span> +a veritable "haven of rest" after a long day in the saddle. +A few pages from my wife's "Journal" of September +fifteenth describes our camp at Lu-ho-we and +our life on the road to Ta-li Fu.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>We are sitting on the porch of an old, old temple. It is on +a hilltop in a forest grove with the gray-walled town lying at +our feet. The sun is flooding the flower-filled courtyard and +throwing bars of golden light through the twisted branches of +a bent old pine, over the stone well, and into the dim recesses +behind the altar where a benevolent idol grins down upon us.</p> + +<p>We have been in the saddle for eight hours and it is enchanting +to rest in this peaceful, aged temple. Outside children +are shouting and laughing but all is quiet here save for +the drip of water in the well, and the chatter of a magpie on +the pine tree. Today we made the stage in one long march +and now we can rest and browse among our books or wander +with a gun along the cool, tree-shaded paths.</p> + +<p>The sun is hot at mid-day, although the mornings and evenings +are cold, and tonight we shall build a fragrant fire of +yellow pine, and talk for an hour before we go to sleep upon +the porch where we can see the moon come up and the stars +shining so low that they seem like tiny lanterns in the sky.</p> + +<p>It is seven days since we left Yün-nan Fu and each night +we have come to temples such as this. There is an inexpressible +charm about them, lying asleep, as it were, among the trees +of their courtyards, with stately, pillared porches, and picturesque +gables upturned to the sky. They seem so very, very +old and filled with such great calm and peace.</p> + +<p>Sometimes they stand in the midst of a populous town and +we ride through long streets between dirty houses, swarming +with ragged women, filthy men, and screaming children; suddenly +we come to the dilapidated entrance of our temple, pass +through a courtyard, close the huge gates and are in another +world.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">- 87 -</span></p> + +<p>We leave early every morning and the boys are up long before +dawn. As we sleepily open our eyes we see their dark +figures silhouetted against the brilliant camp fire, hear the +yawns of the <i>mafus</i> and the contented crunching of the mules +as they chew their beans.</p> + +<p>Wu appears with a lantern and calls out the hour and before +we have fully dressed the odor of coffee has found its way +to the remotest corner of the temple, and a breakfast of pancakes, +eggs, and oatmeal is awaiting on the folding table +spread with a clean white cloth. While we are eating, the +beds are packed, and the loads retied, accompanied by a running +fire of exhortations to the <i>mafus</i> who cause us endless +trouble.</p> + +<p>They are a hard lot, these <i>mafus</i>. Force seems to be the only +thing they understand and kindness produces no results. If +the march is long and we stop for tiffin it is well-nigh impossible +to get them started within three hours without the aid of +threats. Once after a long halt when all seemed ready, we rode +ahead only to wait by the roadside for hours before the caravan +arrived. As soon as we were out of sight they had begun +to shoe their mules and that night we did not make our stage +until long after dark.</p> + +<p>In the morning when we see the first loads actually on the +horses we ride off at the head of the caravan followed by a +straggling line of mules and horses picking their way over +the jagged stones of the road. It is delightful in the early +morning for the air is fresh and brisk like that of October at +home, but later in the day when the sun is higher it is uncomfortably +hot, and we are glad to find a bit of shade where we +can rest until the caravan arrives.</p> + +<p>The roads are execrable. The Chinese have a proverb which +says: "A road is good for ten years and bad for ten thousand," +and this applies most excellently to those of Yün-nan. +The main caravan highways are paved with huge stones to +make them passable during the rainy season, but after a few +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">- 88 -</span> +years' wear the blocks become broken and irregular, the earth is +washed from between them and they are upturned at impossible +angles. The result is a chaotic mass which by no stretch +of imagination can be called a road. Where the stones are +still in place they have been worn to such glasslike smoothness +by the thousands of passing mules that it is well-nigh impossible +to walk upon them. As a result a caravan avoids the +paving whenever it can find a path and sometimes dozens of +deeply-cut trails wind over the hills beside the road.</p> + +<p>We are seldom on level ground, for ten per cent of the entire +province is mountainous and we soon lost count of the ranges +which we crossed. It is slow, hard work, toiling up the steep +mountain-sides, but once on the ridges where the country is +spread out below us like a great, green relief map, there is a +wonderful exhilaration, and we climb higher with a joyous sense +of freedom.</p> + +<p>Yün-nan means "south of the cloud" and every morning the +peaks about us are shrouded in fog. Sometimes the veil-like +mists still float about the mountain tops when we climb into +them, and we are suddenly enveloped in a wet gray blanket +which sends us shivering into the coats tied to our saddles.</p> +</div> + +<p>For centuries this road has been one of the main +trade arteries through the province, and with the total +lack of conservation ideas so characteristic of the Chinese, +every available bit of natural forest has been cut +away. As a result the mountains are desert wastes of +sandstone alternating with grass-covered hills sometimes +clothed with groves of pines or spruces. These trees +have all been planted, and ere they have reached a +height of fifteen or twenty feet will yield to the insistent +demand for wood which is ever present with +the Chinese.</p> + +<p>The ignorance of the need of forest conservation +is an illuminating commentary on Chinese education. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">- 89 -</span> +Mr. William Hanna, a missionary of Ta-li Fu, +told us that one day he was riding over this same road +with a Chinese gentleman, a deep scholar, who was +considered one of the best educated men of the province. +Pointing to the barren hills washed clean of soil +and deeply worn by countless floods, Mr. Hanna remarked +that all this could have been prevented, and +that instead of a rocky waste there might have been +a fertile hillside, had the trees been left to grow.</p> + +<p>The Chinese scholar listened in amazement to facts +which every western schoolboy has learned ere he is +twelve years old, but of which he was ignorant because +they are not a part of Confucius' teachings. To study +modern science is considered a waste of time by the orthodox +Chinese for "everything good must be old," and +all his life he delves into the past utterly neglectful of +the present.</p> + +<p>Every valley along the road was green with rice fields +and this, together with the deforestation of the mountains, +is responsible for the almost total lack of animal +life. Night after night we set traps about our temple +camps only to find them untouched in the morning. +There were no mammals with the exception of a few +red-bellied squirrels (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i> subsp.) +and now and then a tree shrew (<i>Tupaia belangeri chinensis</i>).</p> + +<p>The latter is an interesting species. Although it is +an Insectivore, and a relative of the tiny shrews which +live in holes and under logs, it has squirrel-like habits +and in appearance is like a squirrel to which it is totally +unrelated. Instead of the thinly haired mouselike +tails of the ordinary shrews the tupaias have developed +long bushy tails and in fact look and act so much like +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">- 90 -</span> +squirrels that it is difficult to convince the white residents +of Yün-nan, who are accustomed to see them run +about the hedges and walls of their courtyards that the +two are quite unrelated.</p> + +<p>The tree shrews are found only in Asia and are one +of the most remarkable instances of a superficial resemblance +between unrelated animals with similar habits. +A study of their anatomy has revealed the fact that +they represent a distinct group which is connected with +the monkeys (lemurs).</p> + +<p>Although birds were fairly abundant the species were +not varied. We were about a month too early for the +ducks and geese, which during the winter swarm into +Yün-nan from the north, and without a dog, pheasants +are difficult to get. In fact we were greatly disappointed +in the game birds, for we had expected good +pheasant shooting even along the road and virtually +none were to be found.</p> + +<p>The main caravan roads of Yün-nan held little of +interest for us as naturalists, but as students of native +customs they were fascinating, for the life of the province +passed before us in panoramic completeness. Chinese +villages wherever we have seen them are marvels +of utter and abandoned filth and although those of Yün-nan +are no exception to the rule, they are considerably +better than the coast cities.</p> + +<p>Pigs, chickens, horses and cows live in happy communion +with the human inmates of the houses, the pigs +especially being treated as we favor dogs at home. On +the door steps children play with the swine, patting and +pounding them, and one of my friends said that he +had actually seen a mother bring her baby to be nursed +by a sow with her family of piglets.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">- 91 -</span></p> + +<p>The natives were pleasant and friendly and seemed +to be industrious. Wherever the deforestation had left +sufficient soil on the lower hillsides patches of corn +took the place of the former poppy fields for opium. +In 1906, the Empress Dowager issued an edict prohibiting +the growing of opium, and gave guarantees +to the British that it would be entirely stamped out +during the next ten years. Strangely enough these +promises have been faithfully kept, and in Yün-nan +the hillsides, which were once white with poppy blossoms, +are now yellow with corn. In all our 2000 miles +of riding over unfrequented trails and in the most out-of-the-way +spots we found only one instance where +opium was being cultivated.</p> + +<p>The mandarin of each district accompanied by a +guard of soldiers makes periodical excursions during the +seasons when the poppy is in blossom, cuts down the +plants if any are found, and punishes the owners. China +deserves the greatest credit for so successfully dealing +with a question which affects such a large part of her +four hundred millions of people and which presents +such unusual difficulties because of its economic importance.</p> + +<p>Just across the frontier in Burma, opium is grown +freely and much is smuggled into Yün-nan. Therefore +its use has by no means been abandoned, especially in +the south of the province, and in some towns it is +smoked openly in the tea houses. In August, 1916, just +before we reached Yün-nan Fu there was an <i>exposé</i> +of opium smuggling which throws an illuminating side +light on the corruption of some Chinese officials.</p> + +<p>Opium can be purchased in Yün-nan Fu for two +dollars (Mexican) an ounce, while in Shanghai it is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">- 92 -</span> +worth ten dollars (Mexican). Tang (the Military Governor), +the Minister of Justice, the Governor's brother +and three members of Parliament had collected six hundred +pounds of opium which they undertook to transfer +to Shanghai.</p> + +<p>Their request that no examination of their baggage +be made by the French during their passage through +Tonking was granted, and a similar favor was procured +for them at Shanghai. Thus the sixty cases were safely +landed, but a few hours later, through the opium +combine, foreign detectives learned of the smuggling +and the boxes were seized.</p> + +<p>The Minister of Justice denied all knowledge of the +opium, as did the three Parliament members, and Governor +Tang was not interrogated as that would be quite +contrary to the laws of Chinese etiquette; however, he +will not receive reappointment when his official term +expires.</p> + +<p>As we neared Ta-li Fu, and indeed along the entire +road, we were amazed at the prevalence of goitre. At a +conservative estimate two out of every five persons were +suffering from the disease, some having two, or even +three, globules of uneven size hanging from their throats. +In one village six out of seven adults were affected, but +apparently children under twelve or fourteen years are +free from it as we saw no evidences in either sex. Probably +the disease is in a large measure due to the drinking +water, for it is most prevalent in the limestone regions +and seems to be somewhat localized.</p> + +<p>Every day we passed "chairs," or as we named them, +"mountain schooners," in each of which a fat Chinaman +sprawled while two or four sweating coolies bore him up +hill. The chair is rigged between a pair of long bamboo +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">- 93 -</span> +poles and consists of two sticks swung by ropes on which +is piled a heap of bedding. Overhead a light bamboo +frame supports a piece of yellow oil-cloth, which completely +shuts in the occupant, except from the front and +rear.</p> + +<p>The Chinese consider it undignified to walk, or even +to ride, and if one is about to make an official visit nothing +less than a four-man chair is required. Haste is just +as much tabooed in the "front families" as physical exertion, +and is utterly incomprehensible to the Chinese. +Major Davies says that while he was in Tonking before +the railroad to Yün-nan Fu had been constructed, M. +Doumer, the Governor-General of French Indo-China, +who was a very energetic man, rode to Yün-nan Fu in an +extraordinarily short time. While the Europeans greatly +admired his feat, the Chinese believed he must be in some +difficulty from which only the immediate assistance of +the Viceroy of Yün-nan could extricate him.</p> + +<p>In Yün-nan it is necessary to carry one's own bedding +for the inns supply nothing but food, and consequently +when a Chinaman rides from one city to another he piles +a great heap of blankets on his horse's back and climbs on +top with his legs astride the animal's neck in front. The +horses are trained to a rapid trot instead of a gallop, and +I know of no more ridiculous sight than a Chinaman +bouncing along a road on the summit of a veritable +mountain of bedding with his arms waving and streamers +flying in every direction. He is assisted in keeping +his balance by broad brass stirrups in which he usually +hooks his heels and guides his horse by means of a rawhide +bridle decorated with dozens of bangles which make +a comforting jingle whenever he moves.</p> + +<p>On the sixth day out when approaching the city of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">- 94 -</span> +Chu-hsuing Fu we took a short cut through the fields +leaving the caravan to follow the main road. The trail +brought us to a river about forty feet wide spanned by a +bridge made from two narrow planks, with a wide +median fissure. We led our horses across without trouble +and Heller started to follow. He had reached the center +of the bridge when his horse shied at the hole, jumped +to one side, hung suspended on his belly for a moment, +and toppled off into the water.</p> + +<p>The performance had all happened behind Heller's +back and when he turned about in time to see his horse +diving into the river, he stood looking down at him with +a most ludicrous expression of surprise and disgust, +while the animal climbed out and began to graze as +quietly as though nothing had happened.</p> + +<p>Chu-hsuing was interesting as being the home of Miss +Cordelia Morgan, a niece of Senator Morgan of Virginia. +We found her to be a most charming and determined +young woman who had established a mission +station in the city under considerable difficulties. The +mandarin and other officials by no means wished to +have a foreign lady, alone and unattended, settle down +among them and become a responsibility which might +cause them endless trouble, and although she had rented +a house before she arrived, the owner refused to allow +her to move in.</p> + +<p>She could get no assistance from the mandarin and +was forced to live for two months in a dirty Chinese inn, +swarming with vermin, until they realized that she was +determined not to be driven away. She eventually obtained +a house and while she considers herself comfortable, +I doubt if others would care to share her life +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">- 95 -</span> +unless they had an equal amount of determination and enthusiasm.</p> + +<p>At that time she had not placed her work under the +charge of a mission board and was carrying it on independently. +Until our arrival she had seen but one white +person in a year and a half, was living entirely upon +Chinese food, and had tasted no butter or milk in months.</p> + +<p>We had a delightful dinner with Miss Morgan and the +next morning as our caravan wound down the long hill +past her house she stood at the window to wave good-by. +She kept her head behind the curtains, and doubtless if +we could have seen her face we would have found tears +upon it, for the evening with another woman of her kind +had brought to her a breath of the old life which she had +resolutely forsaken and which so seldom penetrated to +her self-appointed exile.</p> + +<p>On our ninth day from Yün-nan Fu we had a welcome +bit of excitement. We were climbing a long mountain +trail to a pass over eight thousand feet high and were +near the summit when a boy dashed breathlessly up to +the caravan, jabbering wildly in Chinese. It required +fifteen minutes of questioning before we finally learned +that bandits had attacked a big caravan less than a mile +ahead of us and were even then ransacking the loads.</p> + +<p>He said that there were two hundred and fifty of them +and that they had killed two <i>mafus</i>; almost immediately +a second gesticulating Chinaman appeared and gave the +number as three hundred and fifty and the dead as five. +Allowing for the universal habit of exaggeration we felt +quite sure that there were not more than fifty, and subsequently +learned that forty was the correct number and +that no one had been killed.</p> + +<p>Our caravan was in a bad place to resist an attack but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">- 96 -</span> +we got out our rifles and made for a village at the top of +the pass. There were not more than a half dozen mud +houses and in the narrow street between them perfect +bedlam reigned. Several small caravans had halted to +wait for us, and men, horses, loads, and chairs were +packed and jammed together so tightly that it seemed +impossible ever to extricate them. Our arrival added to +the confusion, but leaving the <i>mafus</i> to scream and chatter +among themselves, we scouted ahead to learn the true +condition of affairs.</p> + +<p>Almost within sight we found the caravan which had +been robbed. Paper and cloth were strewn about, loads +overturned, and loose mules wandered over the hillside. +The frightened <i>mafus</i> were straggling back and told us +that about forty bandits had suddenly surrounded the +caravan, shooting and brandishing long knives. Instantly +the <i>mafus</i> had run for their lives leaving the +brigands to rifle the packs unmolested. The goods +chiefly belonged to the retiring mandarin of Li-chiang, +and included some five thousand dollars worth of jade +and gold dust, all of which was taken.</p> + +<p>Yün-nan, like most of the outlying provinces of China, +is infested with brigands who make traveling very unsafe. +There are, of course, organized bands of robbers +at all times, but these have been greatly augmented +since the rebellion by dismissed soldiers or deserters who +have taken to brigandage as the easiest means to avoid +starvation.</p> + +<p>The Chinese Government is totally unable to cope with +the situation and makes only half-hearted attempts to +punish even the most flagrant robberies, so that unguarded +caravans carrying valuable material which +arrive at their destination unmolested consider themselves +very lucky.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f96a" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f96a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Pagoda at Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f96b" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f96b.png" width="367" height="291" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Dead of China</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">- 97 -</span></p> + +<p>So far as our expedition was concerned we did not feel +great apprehension for it was generally known that we +carried but little money and our equipment, except for +guns, could not readily be disposed of. Throughout the +entire expedition we paid our <i>mafus</i> and servants a part +of their wages in advance when they were engaged, and +arranged to have money sent by the mandarins or the +British American Tobacco Co., to some large town which +would be reached after several months. There the balance +on salaries was paid and we carried with us only +enough money for our daily needs.</p> + +<p>Before we left Yün-nan Fu we were assured by the +Foreign Office that we would be furnished with a guard +of soldiers—an honor few foreigners escape! The first +day out we had four, all armed with umbrellas! These +accompanied us to the first camp where they delivered +their official message to the <i>yamen</i> and intrusted us to +the care of others for our next day's journey.</p> + +<p>Sometimes they were equipped with guns of the vintage +of 1872, but their cartridges were seldom of the' +same caliber as the rifles and in most cases the ubiquitous +umbrella was their only weapon. Just what good +they would be in a real attack it is difficult to imagine, +except to divert attention by breaking the speed limits +in running away.</p> + +<p>Several times in the morning we believed we had escaped +them but they always turned up in an hour or two. +They were not so much a nuisance as an expense, for +custom requires that each be paid twenty cents (Mexican) +a day both going and returning. They are of some +use in lending an official aspect to an expedition and in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">- 98 -</span> +requisitioning anything which may be needed; also they +act as an insurance policy, for if a caravan is robbed +a claim can be entered against the government, whereas +if the escort is refused the traveler has no redress.</p> + +<p>It is amusing and often irritating to see the cavalier +way in which these men treat other caravans or the peasants +along the road. Waving their arms and shouting +oaths they shoe horses, mules or chairs out of the way regardless +of the confusion into which the approaching +caravan may be thrown. They must also be closely +watched for they are none too honest and are prone to +rely upon the moral support of foreigners to take whatever +they wish without the formality of payment.</p> + +<p>We were especially careful to respect the property on +which we camped and to be just in all our dealings with +the natives, but it was sometimes difficult to prevent the +<i>mafus</i> or soldiers from tearing down fences for firewood +or committing similar depredations. Wherever such acts +were discovered we made suitable payment and punished +the offenders by deducting a part of their wages. Foreigners +cannot respect too carefully the rights of the +peasants, for upon their conduct rests the reception +which will be accorded to all others who follow in their +footsteps.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">- 99 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">TA-LI FU</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> Friday, September 28, we were at Chou Chou and +camped in a picturesque little temple on the outskirts +of the town. As the last stage was only six hours we +spent half the morning in taking moving pictures of the +caravan and left for Ta-li at eleven-thirty after an early +<b>tiffin</b>.</p> + +<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon we reached Hsia-kuan, +a large commercial town at the lower end of the +lake. Its population largely consists of merchants and +it is by all means the most important business place of interior +Yün-nan; Ta-li, eight miles away, is the residence +and official city.</p> + +<p>At Hsia-kuan we called upon the salt commissioner, +Mr. Lui, to whom Mr. Bode, the salt inspector at Yün-nan +Fu, had very kindly telegraphed money for my account, +and after the usual tea and cigarettes we went oil +to Ta-li Fu over a perfectly level paved road, which was +so slippery that it was well-nigh impossible for either +horse or man to move over it faster than a walk.</p> + +<p>This was the hottest day of our experience in Northern +Yün-nan, the thermometer registering 85°+ in the +shade, which is the usual mid-summer temperature, but +the moment the sun dropped behind the mountains it +was cool enough for one to enjoy a fire. Even in the +winter it is never very cold and its delightful summer +should make Northern Yün-nan a wonderful health +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">- 100 -</span> +resort for the residents of fever-stricken Burma and +Tonking.</p> + +<p>We rode toward Ta-li with the beautiful lake on our +right hand and on the other the Ts'ang Shan mountains +which rise to a height of fourteen thousand feet. +As we approached the city we could see dimly outlined +against the foothills the slender shafts of three ancient +pagodas. They were erected to the <i>feng-shui</i>, the spirits +of the "earth, wind, and water," and for fifteen hundred +years have stood guard over the stone graves which, +in countless thousands, are spread along the foot of +the mountains like a vast gray blanket. In the late afternoon +sunlight the walls of the city seemed to recede +before us and the picturesque gate loomed shadowy and +unreal even when we passed through its gloomy arch +and clattered up the stone-paved street.</p> + +<p>We soon discovered the residence of Mr. H. G. Evans, +agent of the British American Tobacco Company, to +whose care our first caravan had been consigned, and he +very hospitably invited us to remain with him while we +were in Ta-li Fu. This was only the beginning of Mr. +Evans' assistance to the Expedition, for he acted as its +banker throughout our stay in Yün-nan, cashing checks +and transferring money for us whenever we needed +funds.</p> + +<p>The British American Tobacco Company and the +Standard Oil Company of New York are veritable +"oases in the desert" for travelers because their agencies +are found in the most out-of-the-way spots in Asia +and their employees are always ready to extend the cordial +hospitality of the East to wandering foreigners.</p> + +<p>Besides Mr. Evans the white residents of Ta-li Fu include +the Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife and two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">- 101 -</span> +other ladies, all of the China Inland Mission. Mr. +Hanna is doing a really splendid work, especially along +educational and medical lines. He has built a beautiful +little chapel, a large school, and a dispensary in connection +with his house, where he and his wife are occupied +every morning treating the minor ills of the natives, +Christian and heathen alike.</p> + +<p>Ta-li Fu was the scene of tremendous slaughter at +the time of the Mohammedan war, when the Chinese +captured the city through the treachery of its commander +and turned the streets to rivers of blood. The +Mohammedans were almost exterminated, and the +ruined stone walls testify to the completeness of the Chinese +devastation.</p> + +<p>The mandarin at Ta-li Fu was good-natured but dissipated +and corrupt. He called upon us the evening of +our arrival and almost immediately asked if we had any +shotgun cartridges. He remarked that he had a gun +but no shells, and as we did not offer to give him any +he continued to hint broadly at every opportunity.</p> + +<p>The mandarins of lower rank often buy their posts +and depend upon what they can make in "squeeze" +from the natives of their district for reimbursement and +a profit on their investment. In almost every case +which is brought to them for adjustment the decision +is withheld until the magistrate has learned which of +the parties is prepared to offer the highest price for a +settlement in his favor. The Chinese peasant, accepting +this as the established custom, pays the bribe without +a murmur if it is not too exorbitant and, in fact, would +be exceedingly surprised if "justice" were dispensed in +any other way.</p> + +<p>My personal relations with the various mandarins +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">- 102 -</span> +whom I was constantly required to visit officially were +always of the pleasantest and I was treated with +great courtesy. It was apparent wherever we were +in China that there was a total lack of antiforeign feeling +in both the peasant and official classes and except +for the brigands, who are beyond the law, undoubtedly +white men can travel in perfect safety anywhere in the +republic. Before my first official visit Wu gave me a +lesson in etiquette. The Chinese are exceedingly punctilious +and it is necessary to conform to their standards +of politeness for they do not realize, or accept in excuse, +the fact that Western customs differ from their +own.</p> + +<p>At the end of the reception room in every <i>yamen</i> +is a raised platform on which the visitor sits at the <i>left +hand</i> of the mandarin; it would be exceedingly rude for +a magistrate to seat the caller on his right hand. Tea is +always served immediately but is not supposed to be +tasted until the official does so himself; the cup must then +be lifted to the lips with both hands. Usually when the +magistrate sips his tea it is a sign that the interview is +ended. When leaving, the mandarin follows his visitor +to the doorway of the outer court, while the latter continually +bows and protests asking him not to come so +far.</p> + +<p>Ta-li Fu and Hsia-kuan are important fur markets +and we spent some time investigating the shops. One +important find was the panda (<i>Ælurus fulgens</i>). The +panda is an aberrant member of the raccoon family but +looks rather like a fox; in fact the Chinese call it the +"fire fox" because of its beautiful, red fur. Pandas were +supposed to be exceedingly rare and we could hardly +believe it possible when we saw dozens of coats made +from their skins hanging in the fur shops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f102a" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f102a.png" width="365" height="283" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Residence of Rev. William J. Hanna at Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f102b" style="width: 364px;"> + <img src="images/img_f102b.png" width="364" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Gate and Main Street of Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">- 103 -</span></p> + +<p>Skins of the huge red-brown flying squirrel, <i>Petaurista +yunnanensis</i>, were also used for clothing and the +abundance of this animal was almost as great a surprise +as the finding of the pandas. This is often true in the +case of supposedly rare species. A few specimens may +be obtained from the extreme limits of its range, or +from a locality where it really is rare, and for years +it may be almost unique in museum collections but eventually +the proper locality may be visited and the animals +found to be abundant.</p> + +<p>We saw several skins of the beautiful cat (<i>Felis +temmincki</i>) which, with the snow leopard (<i>Felis uncia</i>), it +was said came from Tibet. Civets, bears, foxes, and +small cats were being used extensively for furs and pangolins +could be purchased in the medicine shops. The +scales of the pangolin are considered to be of great +value in the treatment of certain diseases and the skins +are usually sold by the pound as are the horns of deer, +wapiti, gorals, and serows.</p> + +<p>Almost all of the fossil animals which have been obtained +in China by foreigners have been purchased in +apothecary shops. If a Chinaman discovers a fossil bed +he guards it zealously for it represents an actual gold +mine to him. The bones are ground into a fine powder, +mixed with an acid, and a phosphate obtained which in +reality has a certain value as a tonic. When a considerable +amount of faith and Chinese superstition is added +its efficacy assumes double proportions.</p> + +<p>Every year a few tiger skins find their way to Hsia-kuan +from the southern part of the province along the +Tonking border, but the good ones are quickly sold at +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">- 104 -</span> +prices varying from twenty-five to fifty dollars (Mexican). +Ten dollars is the usual price for leopard skins.</p> + +<p>Marco Polo visited Ta-li Fu in the thirteenth century +and, among other things, he speaks of the fine horses +from this part of the province. We were surprised to +find that the animals are considerably larger and more +heavily built than those of Yün-nan Fu and appear to +be better in every way. A good riding horse can be +purchased for seventy-five dollars (Mexican) but mules +are worth about one hundred and fifty dollars because +they are considered better pack animals.</p> + +<p>On the advice of men who had traveled much in the +interior of Yün-nan we hired our caravan and riding animals +instead of buying them outright, and subsequent +experience showed the wisdom of this course. Saddle +ponies, which are used only for short trips about the city, +cannot endure continual traveling over the execrable +roads of the interior where often it is impossible to feed +them properly. If an entire caravan were purchased +the leader of the expedition would have unceasing trouble +with the <i>mafus</i> to insure even ordinary care of the +animals, an opportunity would be given for endless +"squeeze" in the purchase of food, and there are other +reasons too numerous to mention why in this province +the plan is impracticable.</p> + +<p>However, the caravan ponies do try one's patience to +the limit. They are trained only to follow a leader, and +if one happens to be behind another horse it is well-nigh +impossible to persuade it to pass. Beat or kick the beast +as one will, it only backs up or crowds closely to the +horse in front. On the first day out Heller, who was on +a particularly bad animal, when trying to pass one of +us began to cavort about like a circus rider, prancing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">- 105 -</span> +from side to side and backward but never going forward. +We shouted that we would wait for him to go on but +he replied helplessly, "I can't, this horse isn't under my +management," and we found very soon that our animals +were not under our management either!</p> + +<p>In a town near Ta-li Fu we were in front of the +caravan with Wu and Heller: Wu stopped to buy a +basket of mushrooms but his horse refused to move +ahead. Beat as he would, the animal only backed in a +circle, ours followed, and in a few moments we were +packed together so tightly that it was impossible even +to dismount. There we sat, helpless, to the huge delight +of the villagers until rescued by a <i>mafu</i>. As soon as he +led Wu's horse forward the others proceeded as quietly +as lambs.</p> + +<p>We paid forty cents (Mexican) a day for each animal +while traveling, and fifteen or twenty cents when +in camp, but the rate varies somewhat in different parts +of the province, and in the west and south, along the +Burma border fifty cents is the usual price. When +a caravan is engaged the necessary <i>mafus</i> are included +and they buy food for themselves and beans and hay +for the animals.</p> + +<p>Ever since leaving Yün-nan Fu the cook we engaged +at Paik-hoi had been a source of combined irritation and +amusement. He was a lanky, effeminate gentleman who +never before had ridden a horse, and who was physically +and mentally unable to adapt himself to camp life. +After five months in the field he appeared to be as helpless +when the caravan camped for the night as when we +first started, and he would stand vacantly staring until +someone directed him what to do. But he was a good +cook, when he wished to exert himself, and had the great +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">- 106 -</span> +asset of knowing a considerable amount of English. +While we were in Ta-li Fu Mr. Evans overheard him +relating his experiences on the road to several of the +other servants. "Of course," said the cook, "it is a fine +way to see the country, but the riding! My goodness, +that's awful! After the third day I didn't know whether +to go on or turn back—I was so sore I couldn't sit down +even on a chair to say nothing of a horse!"</p> + +<p>He had evidently fully made up his mind not to "see +the country" that way for the day after we left Ta-li Fu +<i>en route</i> to the Tibetan frontier he became violently ill. +Although we could find nothing the matter with him he +made such a good case for himself that we believed he +really was quite sick and treated him accordingly. The +following morning, however, he sullenly refused to proceed, +and we realized that his illness was of the mind +rather than the body. As he had accepted two months' +salary in advance and had already sent it to his wife in +Paik-hoi, we were in a position to use a certain amount +of forceful persuasion which entirely accomplished its +object and illness did not trouble him thereafter.</p> + +<p>The loss of a cook is a serious matter to a large expedition. +Good meals and varied food must be provided +if the personnel is to work at its highest efficiency and +cooking requires a vast amount of thought and time. In +Yün-nan natives who can cook foreign food are by no +means easy to find and when our Paik-hoi gentleman +finally left us upon our return to Ta-li Fu we were fortunate +in obtaining an exceedingly competent man to +take his place through the good offices of Mr. Hanna.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">- 107 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">LI-CHIANG AND "THE TEMPLE OF THE FLOWERS"</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left a part of our outfit with Mr. Evans at Ta-li +Fu and with a new caravan of twenty-five animals traveled +northward for six days to Li-chiang Fu. By taking +a small road we hoped to find good collecting in the +pine forests three days from Ta-li, but instead there was +a total absence of animal life. The woods were beautiful, +parklike stretches which in a country like California +would be full of game, but here were silent and deserted. +During the fourth and fifth days we were still in the +forests, but on the sixth we crossed a pass 10,000 feet +high and descended abruptly into a long marshy plain +where at the far end were the gray outlines of Li-chiang +dimly visible against the mountains.</p> + +<p>Wu and I galloped ahead to find a temple for our +camp, leaving Heller and my wife to follow. A few +pages from her journal tell of their entry into the +city.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>We rode along a winding stone causeway and halted on the +outskirts of the town to wait until the caravan arrived. Neither +Roy nor Wu was in sight but we expected that the <i>mafus</i> +would ask where they had gone and follow, for of coarse we +could not speak a word of the language. Already there was +quite a sensation as we came down the street, for our sudden +appearance seemed to have stupefied the people with amazement. +One old lady looked at me with an indescribable expression and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">- 108 -</span> +uttered what sounded exactly like a long-drawn "Mon Dieu" +of disagreeable surprise.</p> + +<p>I tried smiling at them but they appeared too astonished to +appreciate our friendliness and in return merely stared with +open mouths and eyes. We halted and immediately the street +was blocked by crowds of men, women, and children who poured +out of the houses, shops, and cross-streets to gaze in rapt attention. +When the caravan arrived we moved on again expecting +that the <i>mafus</i> had learned where Roy had gone, but they +seemed to be wandering aimlessly through the narrow winding +streets. Even though we did not find a camping place we afforded +the natives intense delight.</p> + +<p>I felt as though I were the chief actor in a circus parade +at home, but the most remarkable attraction there could not +have equaled our unparalleled success in Li-chiang. On the second +excursion through the town we passed down a cross-street, +and suddenly from a courtyard at the right we heard feminine +voices speaking English.</p> + +<p>"It's a girl. No, it's a boy. No, no, can't you see her hair, +it's a girl!" Just then we caught sight of three ladies, unmistakably +foreigners although dressed in Chinese costume. They +were Mrs. A. Kok, wife of the resident Pentecostal Missionary, +and two assistants, who rushed into the street as soon as +they had determined my sex and literally "fell upon my neck." +They had not seen a white woman since their arrival there +four years ago and it seemed to them that I had suddenly +dropped from the sky.</p> + +<p>While we were talking Wu appeared to guide us to the +camp. They had chosen a beautiful temple with a flower-filled +courtyard on the summit of a hill overlooking the city. It was +wonderfully clean and when our beds, tables, and chairs were +spread on the broad stone porch it seemed like a real home.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f108a" style="width: 368px;"> + <img src="images/img_f108a.png" width="368" height="532" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">One of the Pagodas at Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">- 109 -</span></p> + +<p>The next days were busy ones for us all, Roy and Heller +setting traps, and I working at my photography. We let it be +known that we would pay well for specimens, and there was an +almost uninterrupted procession of men and boys carrying long +sticks, on which were strung frogs, rats, toads, and snakes. +They would simply beam with triumph and enthusiasm. Our +fame spread and more came, bringing the most ridiculous tame +things—pigeons, maltese cats, dogs, white rabbits, caged birds, +and I even believe we might have purchased a girl baby or two, +for mothers stood about with little brown kiddies on their +backs as though they really would like to offer them to us but +hardly dared.</p> + +<p>The temple priest was a good looking, smooth-faced chap, +and hidden under his coat he brought dozens of skins. I believe +that his religious vows did not allow him to handle animals—openly—and +so he would beckon Roy into the darkness of the +temple with a most mysterious air, and would extract all sorts +of things from his sleeves just like a sleight-of-hand performer. +He was a rich man when we left!</p> + +<p>The people are mostly tribesmen—Mosos, Lolos, Tibetans, +and many others. The girls wear their hair "bobbed off" in +front and with a long plait in back. They wash their hair +once—on their wedding day—and then it is wrapped up in +turbans for the rest of their lives. The Tibetan women dress +their hair in dozens of tiny braids, but I don't believe there is +any authority that they ever wash it, or themselves either.</p> +</div> + +<p>Li-chiang was our first collecting camp and we never +had a better one. On the morning after our arrival +Heller found mammals in half his traps, and in the +afternoon we each put out a line of forty traps which +brought us fifty mammals of eleven species. This was +a wonderful relief after the many days of travel through +country devoid of animal life.</p> + +<p>Our traps contained shrews of two species, meadow +voles, Asiatic white-footed mice, spiny mice, rats, squirrels, +and tree shrews. The small mammals were exceedingly +abundant and easy to catch, but after the first day +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">- 110 -</span> +we began to have difficulty with the natives who stole +our traps. We usually marked them with a bit of cotton, +and the boys would follow an entire line down a +hedge, taking every one. Sometimes they even brought +specimens to us for sale which we knew had been caught +in our stolen traps!</p> + +<p>The traps were set under logs and stumps and in the +grass where we found the "runways" or paths which +mice, rats and voles often make. These animals begin +to move about just after dark, and we usually would +inspect our traps with a lantern about nine o'clock in +the evening. This not only gave the trap a double chance +to be filled but we also secured perfect specimens, for +such species as mice and shrews are cannibalistic, and +almost every night, if the specimens were not taken out +early in the evening, several would be partly eaten.</p> + +<p>Small mammals are often of much greater interest +and importance scientifically than large ones, for, especially +among the Insectivores, there are many primitive +forms which are apparently of ancestral stock and +throw light on the evolutionary history of other living +groups.</p> + +<p>Li-chiang is a fur market of considerable importance +for the Tibetans bring down vast quantities of skins for +sale and trade. Lambs, goats, foxes, cats, civets, pandas, +and flying squirrels hang in the shops and there are dozens +of fur dressers who do really excellent tanning.</p> + +<p>This city is a most interesting place especially on +market day, for its inhabitants represent many different +tribes with but comparatively few Chinese. By far the +greatest percentage of natives are the Mosos who are +semi-Tibetan in their life and customs. They were originally +an independent race who ruled a considerable part +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">- 111 -</span> +of northern Yün-nan, and Li-chiang was their ancient +capital. To the effeminate and "highly civilized" Chinese +they are "barbarians," but we found them to be +simple, honest and wholly delightful people. Many of +those whom we met later had never seen a white woman, +and yet their inherent decency was in the greatest contrast +to that of the Chinese who consider themselves so +immeasurably their superior.</p> + +<p>The Mosos have large herds of sheep and cattle, +and this is the one place in the Orient except in large +cities along the coast, where we could obtain fresh milk +and butter. As with the Tibetans, buttered tea and +<i>tsamba</i> (parched oatmeal) are the great essentials, but +they also grow quantities of delicious vegetables and +fruit. Buttered tea is prepared by churning fresh butter +into hot tea until the two have become well mixed. +It is then thickened with finely ground <i>tsamba</i> until a +ball is formed which is eaten with the fingers. The +combination is distinctly good when the ingredients are +fresh, but if the butter happens to be rancid the less +said of it the better.</p> + +<p>The natives of this region are largely agriculturists +and raise great quantities of squash, turnips, carrots, +cabbage, potatoes, onions, corn, peas, beans, oranges, +pears, persimmons and nuts. While traveling we filled +our saddle pockets with pears and English walnuts or +chestnuts and could replenish our stock at almost any +village along the road.</p> + +<p>Everything was absurdly cheap. Eggs were usually +about eight cents (Mexican) a dozen, and we could +always purchase a chicken for an empty tin can, or +two for a bottle. In fact, the latter was the greatest +desideratum and when offers of money failed to induce +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">- 112 -</span> +a native to pose for the camera a bottle nearly always +would decide matters in our favor.</p> + +<p>In Li-chiang we learned that there was good shooting +only twelve miles north of the city on the Snow Mountain +range, the highest peak of which rises 18,000 feet +above the sea. We left a part of our outfit at Mr. +Kok's house and engaged a caravan of seventeen mules +to take us to the hunting grounds. Mr. Kok assisted +us in numberless ways while we were in the vicinity +of Li-chiang and in other parts of the country. He took +charge of all our mail, sending it to us by runners, loaned +us money when it was difficult to get cash from Ta-li Fu +and helped us to engage servants and caravans.</p> + +<p>It had rained almost continually for five days and a +dense gray curtain of fog hung far down in the valley, +but on the morning of October 11 we awoke to find ourselves +in another world. We were in a vast amphitheater +of encircling mountains, white almost to their bases, +rising ridge on ridge, like the foamy billows of a mighty +ocean. At the north, silhouetted against the vivid blue +of a cloudless sky, towered the great Snow Mountain, +its jagged peaks crowned with gold where the morning +sun had kissed their summits. We rode toward it across +a level rock-strewn plain and watched the fleecy clouds +form, and float upward to weave in and out or lose themselves +in the vast snow craters beside the glacier. It +was an inspiration, that beautiful mountain, lying so +white and still in its cradle of dark green trees. Each +hour it seemed more wonderful, more dominating in its +grandeur, and we were glad to be of the chosen few to +look upon its sacred beauty.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f112a" style="width: 282px;"> + <img src="images/img_f112a.png" width="282" height="354" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Moso Herder</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f112b" style="width: 246px;"> + <img src="images/img_f112b.png" width="246" height="355" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Moso Woman</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">- 113 -</span></p> + +<p>In the early afternoon we camped in a tiny temple +which nestled into a grove of spruce trees on the +outskirts of a straggling village. To the north the Snow +Mountain rose almost above us, and on the east and +south a grassy rock-strewn plain rolled away in gentle +undulations to a range of hills which jutted into the valley +like a great recumbent dragon.</p> + +<p>A short time after our camp was established we had +a visit from an Austrian botanist, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, +who had been in the village for two weeks. He had +come to Yün-nan for the Vienna Museum before the +war, expecting to remain a year, but already had been +there three. Surrounded as he was by Tibet, Burma, +and Tonking, his only possible exit was by way of the +four-month overland journey to Shanghai. He had little +money and for two years had been living on Chinese +food. He dined with us in the evening, and his enjoyment +of our coffee, bread, kippered herring, and other +canned goods was almost pathetic.</p> + +<p>A week after our arrival Baron Haendel-Mazzetti +left for Yün-nan Fu and eventually reached Shanghai +which, however, became a closed port to him upon +China's entry into the European war. It is to be hoped +that his collections, which must be of great scientific +value and importance, have arrived at a place of safety +long ere this book issues from the press.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">- 114 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">CAMPING IN THE CLOUDS</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> hired four Moso hunters in the Snow Mountain +village. They were picturesque fellows, supposedly +dressed in skins, but their garments were so ragged and +patched that it was difficult to determine the original +material of which they were made.</p> + +<p>One of them was armed with a most extraordinary +gun which, it was said, came from Tibet. Its barrel was +more than six feet long, and the stock was curved like +a golf stick. A powder fuse projected from a hole in +the side of the barrel, and just behind it on the butt was +fastened a forked spring. At his waist the man carried +a long coil of rope, the slowly burning end of which +was placed in the crotched spring. When about to shoot +the native placed the butt of the weapon against his +cheek, pressed the spring so that the burning rope's end +touched the powder fuse, and off went the gun.</p> + +<p>The three other hunters carried crossbows and poisoned +arrows. They were remarkably good shots and +at a distance of one hundred feet could place an arrow +in a six-inch circle four times out of five. We found +later that crossbows are in common use throughout the +more remote parts of Yün-nan and were only another +evidence that we had suddenly dropped back into the +Middle Ages and, with our high-power rifles and twentieth +century equipment, were anachronisms.</p> + +<p>The natives are able to obtain a good deal of game +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">- 115 -</span> +even with such primitive weapons for they depend largely +upon dogs which bring gorals and serows to bay +against a cliff and hold them until the men arrive. The +dogs are a mongrel breed which appears to be largely +hound, and some are really excellent hunters. White is +the usual color but a few are mixed black and brown, or +fox red. Hotenfa, one of our Mosos, owned a good pack +and we all came to love its big red leader. This fine dog +could be depended upon to dig out game if there was +any in the mountains, but his life with us was short for +he was killed by our first serow. Hotenfa was inconsolable +and the tears he shed were in sincere sorrow for +the loss of a faithful friend.</p> + +<p>Almost every family owns a dog. Some of those we +saw while passing through Chinese villages were nauseating +in their unsightliness, for at least thirty per cent +of them were more or less diseased. Barely able to +walk, they would stagger across the street or lie in the +gutter in indescribable filth. One longed to put them +out of their misery with a bullet but, although they +seemed to belong to nobody, if one was killed an owner +appeared like magic to quarrel over the damages.</p> + +<p>The dogs of the non-Chinese tribes were in fairly +good condition and there seemed to be comparatively +little disease among them. Our hunters treated their +hounds kindly and fed them well, but the animals themselves, +although loyal to their masters, manifested but +little affection. In Korea dogs are eaten by the natives, +but none of the tribes with which we came in contact in +Yün-nan used them for food.</p> + +<p>On our first day in the temple Heller went up the +Snow Mountain for a reconnaissance and the party secured +a fine porcupine. It is quite a different animal +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">- 116 -</span> +from the American tree porcupines and represents a +genus (<i>Hystrix</i>) which is found in Asia, Africa, and +southern Europe. This species lives in burrows and, +when hunting big game, we were often greatly annoyed +to find that our dogs had followed the trail of one of +these animals. We would arrive to see the hounds dancing +about the burrow yelping excitedly instead of having +a goral at bay as we had expected.</p> + +<p>Some of the beautiful black and ivory white quills +are more than twelve inches long and very sharp. A porcupine +will keep an entire pack of dogs at bay and is almost +sure to drive its murderous weapons into the bodies +of some of them unless the hunters arrive in a short +time. The Mosos eat the flesh which is white and fine.</p> + +<p>Although we were only twelve miles from Li-chiang +the traps yielded four shrews and one mouse which were +new to our collection. The natives brought in three +bats which we had not previously seen and began a +thriving business in toads and frogs with now and then +a snake.</p> + +<p>The temple was an excellent place for small mammals +but it was evident that we would have to move high up +on the slopes of the mountain if gorals and other big +game were to be obtained. Accordingly, while Heller +prepared a number of bat skins we started out on horse-back +to hunt a camp site.</p> + +<p>It was a glorious day with the sun shining brilliantly +from a cloudless sky and just a touch of autumn snap +in the air. We crossed the sloping rock-strewn plain +to the base of the mountain, and discovered a trail which +led up a forested shoulder to the right of the main +peaks. An hour of steady climbing brought us to +the summit of the ridge where we struck into the woods +toward a snow-field on the opposite slope. The trail +led us along the brink of a steep escarpment from which +we could look over the valley and away into the blue +distance toward Li-chiang. Three thousand feet below +us the roof of our temple gleamed from among the sheltering +pine trees, and the herds of sheep and cattle +massed themselves into moving patches on the smooth +brown plain.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f116a" style="width: 471px;"> + <img src="images/img_f116a.png" width="471" height="368" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Snow Mountain</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">- 117 -</span></p> + +<p>We pushed our way through the spruce forest with +the glistening snow bed as a beacon and suddenly +emerged into a flat open meadow overshadowed by the +ragged peaks. "What a perfectly wonderful place to +camp," we both exclaimed. "If we can only find water, +let's come tomorrow."</p> + +<p>The hunters had assured us that there were no streams +on this end of the mountain but we hoped to find a snow +bank which would supply our camp for a few days at +least. We rode slowly up the meadow reveling in the +grandeur of the snow-crowned pinnacles and feeling +very small and helpless amid surroundings where nature +had so magnificently expressed herself.</p> + +<p>At the far end of the meadow we discovered a dry +creek bed which led upward through the dense spruce +forest. "Where water has been, water may be again," +we argued and, leading the horses, picked our way +among the trees and over fallen logs to a fairly open +hill slope where we attempted to ride, but our animals +were nearly done. After climbing a few feet they stood +with heaving sides and trembling legs the breath rasping +through distended nostrils. We felt the altitude +almost as badly as the horses for the meadow itself was +twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea and the +air was very thin.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">- 118 -</span></p> + +<p>There seemed to be no hope of finding even a suitable +snow bank when it was slowly borne in upon us +that the subdued roaring in our ears was the sound of +water and not the effect of altitude as we both imagined. +Above and to the left was a sheer cliff, hundreds of +feet in height, and as we toiled upward and emerged +beyond timber line we caught a glimpse of a silver ribbon +streaming down its face. It came from a melting +snow crater and we could follow its course with our +eyes to where it swung downward along a rock wall not +far from the upper end of the meadow. It was so hidden +by the trees that had we not climbed above timber +line, it never would have been discovered.</p> + +<p>This solved the question of our camp and we looked +about us happily. On the way through the forest we +had noticed small mammal runways under almost every +log and, when we stood above the tree limit, the grassy +slope was cut by an intricate network of tiny tunnels. +These were plainly the work of a meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>) +and at this altitude it certainly would prove to be a +species new to our collection.</p> + +<p>The sun had already dropped behind the mountain +and the meadow was in shadow when we reached it again +on our homeward way. By five o'clock we were in the +temple eating a belated tiffin and making preparations +for an early start. But our hopes were idle, for in the +morning three of the mules had strayed, and we did not +arrive at the meadow until two o'clock in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>Our camp was made just at the edge of the spruce +forest a few hundred yards from the snow stream. As +soon as the tents were up we climbed to the grassy slope +above timber line, with Heller, to set a string of traps +in the vole runways and under logs and stumps in the +forest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f118a" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f118a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Cheek Gun Used by One of Our Hunters</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f118b" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f118b.png" width="367" height="261" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The First Goral Killed on the Snow Mountain</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">- 119 -</span></p> + +<p>The hunters made their camp beside a huge rock a +short distance away and slept in their ragged clothes +without a blanket or shelter of any kind. It was delightfully +warm, even at this altitude, when the sun was +out, but as soon as it disappeared we needed a fire and +the nights were freezing cold; yet the natives did not +seem to mind it in the slightest and refused our offer +of a canvas tent fly.</p> + +<p>We never will forget that first night on the Snow +Mountain. As we sat at dinner about the camp-fire +we could see the somber mass of the forest losing itself +in the darkness, and felt the unseen presence of +the mighty peaks standing guard about our mountain +home. We slept, breathing the strong, sweet perfume +of the spruce trees and dreamed that we two were wandering +alone through the forest opening the treasure +boxes of the Wild.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">- 120 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE FIRST GORAL</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were awakened before daylight by Wu's long +drawn call to the hunters, "<i>L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o, +L-a-o-u H-o.</i>" The steady drum of rain on our tent shot +a thrill of disappointment through me as I opened my +eyes, but before we had crawled out of our sleeping-bags +and dressed it lessened to a gentle patter and soon +ceased altogether. It left a cold, gray morning with +dense clouds weaving in and out among the peaks but, +nevertheless, I decided to go out with the hunters to +try for goral.</p> + +<p>Two of the men took the dogs around the base of a +high rock shoulder sparsely covered with scrub spruce +while I went up the opposite slope accompanied by +the other two. We had not been away from camp half +an hour when the dogs began to yelp and almost immediately +we heard them coming around the summit of +the ridge in our direction. The hunters made frantic +signs for me to hurry up the steep slope but in the +thin air with my heart pounding like a trip hammer I +could not go faster than a walk.</p> + +<p>We climbed about three hundred yards when suddenly +the dogs appeared on the side of the cliff near +the summit. Just in front of them was a bounding +gray form. The mist closed in and we lost both dogs +and animals but ten minutes later a blessed gust of wind +drifted the fog away and the goral was indistinctly +visible with its back to a rock ledge facing the dogs. The +big red leader of the pack now and then dashed in for +a nip at the animal's throat but was kept at bay by its +vicious lunges and sharp horns.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f120a" style="width: 282px;"> + <img src="images/img_f120a.png" width="282" height="366" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Hotenfa, One of Our Moso Hunters, +Bringing in a Goral</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f120b" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f120b.png" width="286" height="371" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Another Moso Hunter with a Porcupine</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">- 121 -</span></p> + +<p>It was nearly three hundred yards away but the cloud +was drifting in again and I dropped down for a shot. +The hunters were running up the slope, frantically +waving for me to come on, thinking it madness to shoot +at that distance. I could just see the gray form through +the sights and the first two shots spattered the loose +rock about a foot low. For the third I got a dead rest +over a stone and as the crash of the little Mannlicher +echoed up the gorge, the goral threw itself into the air +whirling over and over onto the rocks below.</p> + +<p>The hunters, mad with excitement, dashed up the hill +and down into the stream bed, and when I arrived the +goral lay on a grassy ledge beside the water. The +animal was stone dead, for my bullet had passed through +its lungs, and, although the front teeth had been smashed +on the rocks, its horns were uninjured and the beautiful +gray coat was in perfect condition. It so happened +that this ram was the largest which we killed on the +entire trip.</p> + +<p>When the hunters were carrying the goral to camp +we met Yvette and Heller on their way to visit the +traps just below snow line, and she returned with me +to photograph the animal and to watch the ceremonies +which I knew would be performed. One of the natives +cut a leafy branch, placed the goral upon it and at the +first cut chanted a prayer. Then laying several leaves +one upon the other he sliced off the tip of the heart, +wrapped it carefully in the leaves and placed it in a +nearby tree as an offering to the God of the Hunt.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">- 122 -</span></p> + +<p>I have often seen the Chinese and Korean hunters +perform similar ceremonies at the death of an animal, +and the idea that it is necessary to propitiate the God +of the Hunt is universal. When I was shooting in +Korea in 1912, and also in other parts of China, if +luck had been against us for a few days the hunters +would invariably ask me to buy a chicken, or some +animal to sacrifice for "good joss."</p> + +<p>After each dog had had a taste of the goral's blood +we again climbed the cliff at the end of the meadow. +When we were nearly 2,000 feet above camp the clouds +shut in and, as the impenetrable gray curtain wrapped +itself about us, we could only sit quietly and wait for +it to drift away.</p> + +<p>After an hour the fog began to thin and the men +sent the hounds toward a talus slope at the base of the +highest peak. Almost immediately the big red dog +picked up a trail and started across the loose rock with +the pack yelping at his heels. We followed as rapidly +as possible over such hard going but before we reached +the other side the dogs had rounded a sharp pinnacle +and disappeared far below us. Expecting that the goral +would swing about the base of the peak the hunters sent +me back across the talus to watch for a shot, but the +animal ran down the valley and into a heavily wooded +ravine where the dogs lost his trail only a short distance +above camp.</p> + +<p>I returned to find that Heller had secured a rich +haul from the traps. As we supposed, the runways which +Yvette and I had discovered above timber line were +made by a meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>) and in the forest +almost every trap had caught a white-footed mouse +(<i>Apodemus</i>). He also had several new shrews and we +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">- 123 -</span> +caught eight different species of these important little +animals at this one camp.</p> + +<p>Wu, the interpreter, hearing us speak of shrews, came +to me one day in great perplexity with his Anglo-Chinese +dictionary. He had looked up the word "shrew" +and found that it meant "a cantankerous woman!"</p> + +<p>The following day Heller went out with the hunters +and saw two gorals but did not get a shot. In the +meantime Yvette and I ran the traps and prepared the +small mammals. While we were far up on the mountain-side, +Baron Haendel-Mazzetti appeared armed with +ropes and an alpine snow ax. He was about to attempt +to climb the highest peak which had never been ascended +but the drifts turned him back several hundred feet +from the summit. He dined at our camp and as all +of us carefully refrained from "war talk" we spent a +very pleasant evening. During his three years in Yün-nan +he had explored and mapped many sections of the +province which had not been visited previously by foreigners +and from him we obtained much valuable information.</p> + +<p>On the third morning we were up before daylight and +I left with the hunters in the gray dawn. We climbed +steadily for an hour after leaving camp and, when well +up on the mountain-side, skirted the base of a huge peak +through a dense forest of spruce and low bamboo thickets, +emerging upon a steep grassy meadow; this abutted +on a sheer rock wall at the upper end, and below ran +into a thick evergreen forest.</p> + +<p>As we entered the meadow the big red leading dog, +trotted off by himself toward the rock wall above us, +and in a few moments we heard his sharp yelps near +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">- 124 -</span> +the summit. Instantly the pack was off stringing out +in a long line up the hillside.</p> + +<p>We had nearly crossed the open slope and were +standing on the edge of a deep gully when the dogs +gave tongue and as soon as the hunters were sure they +were coming in our direction we hurried to the bottom +of the gorge and began the sharp ascent on the other +side. It was almost straight up and before we had gone +a hundred feet we were all gasping for breath and my +legs seemed like bars of lead, but the staccato yelps of +the dogs sounding closer and closer kept us going.</p> + +<p>When we finally dropped on the summit of the hill +I was absolutely done. I lay flat on my back for a few +minutes and got to my knees just as the goral appeared +on the opposite cliff. The sight of the magnificent animal +bounding like rubber from ledges which his feet +seemed hardly to touch down the face of a sheer wall, +will remain in my memory as long as I live. He seemed +the very spirit of the mountains, a thing born of peaks +and crags, vibrant with the breath of the clouds. Selecting +a spot which he must touch in the next flying +leap, I waited until his body darkened the sights and +then pulled the trigger.</p> + +<p>The game little brute collapsed, then struggled to +his feet, and with a tremendous leap landed on a projecting +shelf of rock four yards below. Instantly I +fired again and he sank down in a crumpled gray mass +not two feet from the edge of the precipice which fell +away in a dizzy drop of six hundred feet.</p> + +<p>The dogs were on him long before we had worked +our way down the cañon and up to the shelf where +he lay. He was a fine ram nearly as large as the first +one I had killed. I wanted to rest the dogs for they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">- 125 -</span> +were very tired from their two days of hunting, so I +decided to return to camp with the men. On the way a +second goral was started but it swung about the summit +of the wooded ridge instead of coming in my direction, +giving one of the hunters a shot with his crossbow, +which he missed.</p> + +<p>It was a beautiful day. Above us the sky was clear +and blue but the clouds still lay thickly over the meadow +and the camp was invisible. The billowy masses clung +to the forest line, but from the slopes above them we +could look far across the valley into the blue distance +where the snow-covered summits of range after range +of magnificent mountains lay shining in the sun like +beaten silver. There was a strange fascination about +those mountains, and I thrilled with the thought that +for twelve long months I was free to roam where I willed +and explore their hidden mysteries.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">- 126 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">MORE GORALS</p> + + +<p>Both gorals were fine old rams with perfect horns. +Their hair was thick and soft, pale olive-buff tipped +with brownish, and the legs on the "cannon bones" were +buff-yellow like the margins of the throat patches. Their +color made them practically invisible against the rocks +and when I killed the second goral my only distinct impression +as he dashed down the face of the precipice, was +of four yellowish legs entirely separated from a body +which I could hardly see.</p> + +<p>This invisibility, combined with the fact that the +Snow Mountain gorals lived on almost inaccessible cliffs +thickly covered with scrub spruce forest, made "still +hunting" impossible. In fact. Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, +who had explored this part of the Snow Mountains fairly +thoroughly in his search for plants, had never seen +a goral, and did not know that such an animal existed +there.</p> + +<p>Heller hunted for two days in succession and, although +he saw several gorals, he was not successful in +getting one until we had been in camp almost a week. +His was a young male not more than a year old with +horns about an inch long. It was a valuable addition +to our collection for I was anxious to obtain specimens +of various ages to be mounted as a "habitat group" in +the Museum and we lacked only a female.</p> + +<p>The preparation of the group required the greatest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">- 127 -</span> +care and study. First, we selected a proper spot to +reproduce in the Museum, and Yvette took a series of +natural color photographs to guide the artist in painting +the background. Next she made detail photographs +of the surroundings. Then we collected portions of the +rocks and typical bits of vegetation such as moss and +leaves, to be either dried or preserved in formalin. In +a large group, perhaps several thousand leaves will be +required, but the field naturalist need select typical specimens +of only five or six different sizes from each of +which a plaster mold can be made at the Museum and +the leaves reproduced in wax.</p> + +<p>After two days of rain during which I had a hard +and unsuccessful hunt for serows we decided to return +to the temple at the foot of the mountain which was +nearer to the forests inhabited by these animals. We +had already been in our camp on the meadow for nine +days and, besides the gorals, had gathered a large and +valuable collection of small mammals. The shrews were +especially varied in species and, besides a splendid series +of meadow voles, Asiatic mice and rats, we obtained +a new weasel and a single specimen of a tiny rock-cony +or little chief hare, an Asiatic genus (<i>Ochotona</i>) which +is also found in the western part of North America on +the high slopes of the Rocky Mountains. Although we +set dozens of traps among the rocks we did not get another +on the entire expedition nor did we see indications +of their presence in other localities.</p> + +<p>The almost complete absence of carnivores at this +camp was a great surprise. Except for weasels we saw +no others and the hunters said that foxes or civets did +not occur on this side of the mountain even though food +was abundant.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">- 128 -</span></p> + +<p>On the day before we went to the temple I had a +magnificent hunt. We left camp at daylight in a heavy +fog and almost at once the dogs took up a serow trail. +We heard them coming toward us as we stood at the +upper edge of a little meadow and expected the animal +to break cover any moment, but it turned down the +mountain and the hounds lost the trail in the thick spruce +woods.</p> + +<p>We climbed slowly toward the cliffs until we were +well above the clouds, which lay in a thick white blanket +over the camp, and headed for the cañon where I had +shot my second goral. Hotenfa wished to go lower +down into the forests but I prevailed upon him to stay +along the open slopes and, while we were resting, the +big red dog suddenly gave tongue on a ridge above and +to the right of us. It was in the exact spot where my +second goral had been started and we were on the <i>qui +vive</i> when the rest of the pack dashed up the mountain-side +to join their leader.</p> + +<p>In a few moments they all gave tongue and we heard +them swinging about in our direction. Just then the +clouds, which had been lying in a solid bank below us, +began to drift upward in a long, thin finger toward the +cañon. On and on it came, and closer sounded the yelps +of the dogs. I was trembling with impatience and +swearing softly as the gray vapor streamed into the +gorge. The cloud thickened, sweeping rapidly up the +ravine, until we were enveloped so completely that I +could hardly see the length of my gun barrel. A moment +later we heard the goral leaping down the cliff +not a hundred yards away.</p> + +<p>With the rifle useless in my hands I listened to each +hoof beat and the stones which his flying feet sent +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">- 129 -</span> +rattling into the gorge. Then the dogs came past, and +we heard them follow down the rocks, their yelps growing +fainter and fainter in the valley far below. The +goral was lost, and as though the Fates were laughing +at us, ten minutes later a puff of wind sucked the cloud +out of the cañon as swiftly as it had come, and above +us shone a sky as clear and blue as a tropic sea.</p> + +<p>Hotenfa's disgust more than equaled my own for I +had loaned him my three-barrel gun (12 gauge and .808 +Savage) and he was as excited as a child with a new +toy. He was a remarkably intelligent man and mastered +the safety catches in a short time even though +he had never before seen a breach-loading gun.</p> + +<p>There was nothing to do but hurry down the mountain +for the dogs might bring the goral to bay on one +of the cliffs below us, and in twenty minutes we stood +on a ridge which jutted out from the thick spruce forest. +One of the hunters picked his way down the rock +wall while Hotenfa and I circled the top of the spur.</p> + +<p>We had not gone a hundred yards when the hunter +shouted that a goral was running in our direction. Hotenfa +reached the edge of the ridge before me, and I +saw him fire with the three-barrel gun at a goral which +disappeared into the brush. His bullet struck the dirt +only a few feet behind the animal although it must have +been well beyond a hundred yards and almost straight +below us.</p> + +<p>Hardly had we drawn back when a yell from the other +hunter brought us again to the edge of the cliff just in +time to see a second goral dash into the forest a good +three hundred yards away in the very bottom of the +gorge.</p> + +<p>Rather disappointed we continued along the ridge and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">- 130 -</span> +Hotenfa made signs which said as plainly as words, "I +told you so. The gorals are not on the peaks but down +in the forest. We ought to have come here first."</p> + +<p>There were not many moments for regret, however, +for this was "our busy day." Suddenly a burst of frantic +yelps from the red dog turned us off to the left and +we heard him nearing the summit of the spur which +we had just left. One of the other hunters was standing +there and his crossbow twanged as the goral passed +only a few yards from him, but the wicked little poisoned +dart stuck quivering into a tree a few inches +above the animal's back.</p> + +<p>The goral dashed over the ridge almost on top of the +second hunter who was too surprised to shoot and only +yelled that it was coming toward us on the cliff below. +Hotenfa leaped from rock to rock, almost like a goat +himself, and dashed through the bushes toward a jutting +shelf which overhung the gorge.</p> + +<p>We reached the rim at the same moment and saw +a huge ram standing on a narrow ledge a hundred +yards below. I fired instantly and the noble animal, +with feet wide spread, and head thrown back, launched +himself into space falling six hundred feet to the rocks +beneath us.</p> + +<p>As the goral leaped Hotenfa seemed suddenly to +go insane. Yelling with joy, he threw his arms about +my neck, rubbing my face with his and pounding me +on the back until I thought he would throw us both off +the cliff. I was utterly dumbfounded but seized his three-barrel +gun to unload it for in his excitement there was +imminent danger that he would shoot either himself or +me.</p> + +<p>Then I realized what it was all about. We had both +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">- 131 -</span> +fired simultaneously and neither had heard the other's +shot. By mistake Hotenfa had discharged a load of +buckshot and it was my bullet which had killed the +goral but his joy was so great that I would not for anything +have disillusioned him.</p> + +<p>It was a half hour's hard work to get to the place +where the goral had fallen. The dogs were already there +lying quietly beside the animal when we arrived. My bullet +had entered the back just in front of the hind leg and +ranged forward through the lungs flattening itself +against the breast bone; the jacket had split, one piece +tearing into the heart, so that the ram was probably +dead before it struck the rocks.</p> + +<p>I photographed the goral where it lay and after it +had been eviscerated, and the hunters had performed +their ceremonies to the God of the Hunt, I sent one +of them back with it while Hotenfa and I worked toward +the bottom of the cañon in the hope of finding the other +animals.</p> + +<p>It was a delightfully warm day and Hotenfa told me +in his vivid sign language that the gorals were likely to +be asleep on the sunny side of the ravine; therefore we +worked up the opposite slope.</p> + +<p>It was the hardest kind of climbing and for two hours +we plodded steadily upward, clinging by feet and hands +to bushes and rocks, and were almost exhausted when +we reached a small open patch of grass about two thirds +of the way to the summit.</p> + +<p>We rested for half an hour and, after a light tiffin, +toiled on again. I had not gone thirty feet, and Hotenfa +was still sitting down, when I saw him wave his arm +excitedly and throw up his gun to shoot. I leaped down +to his side just as he fired at a big female goral which +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">- 132 -</span> +was sound asleep in an open patch of grass on the +mountain-side.</p> + +<p>Hotenfa's bullet broke the animal's foreleg at the +knee but without the slightest sign of injury she dashed +down the cliff. I fired as she ran, striking her squarely +in the heart, and she pitched headlong into the bushes +a hundred feet below.</p> + +<p>How Hotenfa managed to pack that animal to the +summit of the ridge I never can understand, for with a +light sack upon my back and a rifle it was all I could +do to pull myself up the rocks. He was completely +done when we finally threw ourselves on the grass at +the edge of the meadow which we had left in the morning. +Hotenfa chanted his prayer when we opened the +goral, but the God of the Hunt missed his offering for +my bullet had smashed the heart to a pulp.</p> + +<p>On our way back to camp the red dog, although dead +tired, disappeared alone into the heavy forest below us. +Suddenly we heard his deep bay coming up the hill in +our direction. Hotenfa and I dropped our burdens +and ran to an opening in the forest where we thought +the animal must pass.</p> + +<p>Instead of coming out where we expected, the dog appeared +higher up at the heels of a crested muntjac +(<i>Elaphodus</i>), which was bounding along at full speed, +its white flag standing straight up over its dark bluish +back. I had one chance for a shot at about one hundred +and fifty yards as the pair crossed a little opening in +the trees, but it was too dangerous to shoot for, had I +missed the deer, the dog certainly would have been +killed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f132a" style="width: 373px;"> + <img src="images/img_f132a.png" width="373" height="647" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Typical Goral Cliff on the Snow Mountain</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">- 133 -</span></p> + +<p>I was heart-broken over losing this animal, for it is +an exceedingly rare species, but a few days later a +shepherd brought in another which had been wounded +by one of our Lolo hunters and had run down into the +plains to die.</p> + +<p>When we reached the hill above camp Yvette ran out +to meet us, falling over logs and bushes in her eagerness +to see what we were carrying. No dinner which I have +ever eaten tasted like the one we had of goral steak +that night and after a smoke I crawled into my sleeping +bag, dead tired in body but with a happy heart.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">- 134 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE SNOW MOUNTAIN TEMPLE</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> October 22, we moved to the foot of the mountain +and camped in the temple which we had formerly occupied. +This was directly below the forests inhabited +by serow, and we expected to devote our efforts exclusively +toward obtaining a representative series of these +animals.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately I developed a severe infection in the +palm of my right hand almost immediately, and had it +not been for the devoted care of my wife I should not +have left China alive. Through terrible nights of delirium +when the poison was threatening to spread over +my entire body, she nursed me with an utter disregard +of her own health and slept only during a few restless +hours of complete exhaustion. For three weeks I could +do no work but at last was able to bend my "trigger +finger" and resume hunting although I did not entirely +recover the use of my hand for several months.</p> + +<p>However, the work of the expedition by no means +ceased because of my illness. Mr. Heller continued to +collect small mammals with great energy and the day +after we arrived at the temple we engaged eight new +native hunters. These were Lolos, a wandering unit +from the independent tribe of S'suchuan and they +proved to be excellent men.</p> + +<p>The first serow was killed by Hotenfa's party on our +third day in the temple. Heller went out with the hunters +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">- 135 -</span> +but in a few hours returned alone. A short time +after he had left the natives the dogs took up the trail +of a huge serow and followed it for three miles through +the spruce forest. They finally brought the animal to +bay against a cliff and a furious fight ensued. One +dog was ripped wide open, another received a horn-thrust +in the side, and the big red leader was thrown +over a cliff to the rocks below. More of the hounds +undoubtedly would have been killed had not the hunters +arrived and shot the animal.</p> + +<p>The men brought the serow in late at night but our +joy was considerably dampened by the loss of the red +dog. Hotenfa carried him in his arms and laid him +gently on a blanket in the temple but the splendid animal +died during the night. His master cried like a +child and I am sure that he felt more real sorrow than +he would have shown at the loss of his wife; for wives +are much easier to get in China than good hunting +dogs.</p> + +<p>The serow was an adult male, badly scarred from +fighting, and had lost one horn by falling over a cliff +when he was killed. He was brownish black, with rusty +red lower legs and a whitish mane. His right horn was +nine and three-quarters inches in length and five and +three-quarters inches in circumference at the base and +the effectiveness with which he had used his horns against +the dogs demonstrated that they were by no means +only for ornaments. In the next chapter the habits +and relationships of the gorals and serows will be considered +more fully.</p> + +<p>On the morning following the capture of the first +serow the last rain of the season began and continued for +nine days almost without ceasing. The weather made +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">- 136 -</span> +hunting practically impossible for the fog hung so +thickly over the woods that one could not see a hundred +feet and Heller found that many of his small traps were +sprung by the raindrops. The Lolos had disappeared, +and we believed that they had returned to their village, +but they had been hunting in spite of the weather and +on the fifth day arrived with a fine male serow in perfect +condition. It showed a most interesting color variation +for, instead of red, the lower legs were buff with +hardly a tinge of reddish.</p> + +<p>November 2, the sun rose in an absolutely cloudless +sky and during the remainder of the winter we had as +perfect weather as one could wish. Yvette's constant +mussing and efficient surgery combined with the devotion +of our interpreter, Wu, had checked the spread +of the poison in my hand and my nights were no longer +haunted with the strange fancies of delirium, but I +was as helpless as a babe. I could do nothing but sit +with steaming cloths wrapped about my arm and rail +at the fate which kept me useless in the temple.</p> + +<p>The Lolos killed a third serow on the mountain just +above our camp but the animal fell into a rock fissure +more than a hundred feet deep and was recovered only +after a day's hard work. The men wove a swinging +ladder from tough vines, climbed down it, and drew the +serow bodily up the cliff; as it weighed nearly three +hundred pounds this was by no means an easy undertaking.</p> + +<p>Our Lolo hunters were tall, handsome fellows led +by a slender young chief with patrician features who +ruled his village like an autocrat with absolute power +of life and death. The Lolos are a strange people who +at one time probably occupied much of the region south +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">- 137 -</span> +of the Yangtze River but were pushed south and west +by the Chinese and, except in one instance, now exist +only in scattered units in the provinces of Kwei-chau +and Yün-nan.</p> + +<p>In S'suchuan the Lolos hold a vast territory which +is absolutely closed to the Chinese on pain of death +and over which they exercise no control. Several expeditions +have been launched against the Lolos but all +have ended in disaster.</p> + +<p>Only a few weeks before we arrived in Yün-nan a +number of Chinese soldiers butchered nearly a hundred +Lolos whom they had encountered outside the independent +territory, and in reprisal the Lolos burned +several villages almost under the walls of a fortified city +in which were five hundred soldiers, massacred all the +men and boys, and carried off the women as slaves.</p> + +<p>The pure blood Lolos "are a very fine tall race, with +comparatively fair complexions, and often with straight +features, suggesting a mixture of Mongolian with some +more straight-featured race. Their appearance marks +them as closely connected by race with the eastern Tibetans, +the latter being, if anything, rather the bigger men +of the two."<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> They are great wanderers and over a very +large part of Yün-nan form the bulk of the hill population, +being the most numerous of all the non-Chinese +tribes in the province.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> "Yün-nan, the Link between India and the Yangtze," by Major +H. R. Davies, 1909, p. 389.</p> + +</div> + +<p>Like almost every race which has been conquered by +the Chinese or has come into continual contact with them +for a few generations, the Lolos of Yün-nan, where they +are in isolated villages, are being absorbed by the Chinese. +We found, as did Major Davies, that in some +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">- 138 -</span> +instances they were giving up their language and beginning +to talk Chinese even among themselves. The +women already had begun to tie up their feet in the +Chinese fashion and even disliked to be called Lolos.</p> + +<p>Those whom we employed were living entirely by +hunting and, although we found them amiable enough, +they were exceedingly independent. They preferred to +hunt alone, although they recognized what an increased +chance for game our high-power rifles gave them, and +eventually left us while I was away on a short trip, +even though we still owed them considerable money.</p> + +<p>The Lolos are only one of the non-Chinese tribes of +Yün-nan. Major Davies has considered this question +in his valuable book to which I have already referred, +and I cannot do better than quote his remarks here.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The numerous non-Chinese tribes that the traveler encounters +in western China, form perhaps one of the most interesting +features of travel in that country. It is safe to assert that in +hardly any other part of the world is there such a large variety +of languages and dialects, as are to be heard in the country +which lies between Assam and the eastern border of Yün-nan +and in the Indo-Chinese countries to the south of this +region.</p> + +<p>The reason of this is not hard to find. It lies in the physical +characteristics of the country. It is the high mountain ranges +and the deep swift-flowing rivers that have brought about the +differences in customs and language, and the innumerable +tribal distinctions, which are so perplexing to the enquirer into +Indo-Chinese ethnology.</p> + +<p>A tribe has entered Yün-nan from their original Himalayan +or Tibetan home, and after increasing in numbers have found +the land they have settled on not equal to their wants. The natural +result has been the emigration of part of the colony. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">- 139 -</span> +emigrants, having surmounted pathless mountains and crossed +unbridged rivers on extemporized rafts, have found a new +place to settle in, and have felt no inclination to undertake +such a journey again to revisit their old home.</p> + +<p>Being without a written character in which to preserve their +traditions, cut off from all civilizing influence of the outside +world, and occupied merely in growing crops enough to support +themselves, the recollection of their connection with their +original ancestors has died out. It is not then surprising that +they should now consider themselves a totally distinct race from +the parent stock. Inter-tribal wars, and the practice of slave +raiding so common among the wilder members of the Indo-Chinese +family, have helped to still further widen the breach. In +fact it may be considered remarkable that after being separated +for hundreds, and perhaps in some case for thousands, +of years, the languages of two distant tribes of the same family +should bear to each other the marked general resemblance +which is still to be found.</p> + +<p>The hilly nature of the country and the consequent lack of +good means of communication have also naturally militated +against the formation of any large kingdoms with effective control +over the mountainous districts. Directly we get to a flat +country with good roads and navigable rivers, we find the +tribal distinctions disappear, and the whole of the inhabitants +are welded into a homogeneous people under a settled government, +speaking one language.</p> + +<p>Burmese as heard throughout the Irrawaddy valley is the +same everywhere. A traveler from Rangoon to Bhamo will +find one language spoken throughout his journey, but an expedition +of the same length in the hilly country to the east or +to the west of the Irrawaddy valley would bring him into contact +with twenty mutually unintelligible tongues.</p> + +<p>The same state of things applies to Siam and Tonking—one +nation speaking one language in the flat country and a +Tower of Babel in the hills (<i>loc. cit.</i>, pp. 332-883).</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">- 140 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">GORALS AND SEROWS</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Gorals</span> and serows belong to the subfamily <i>Rupicaprinæ</i> +which is an early mountain-living offshoot of the +<i>Bovidæ</i>; it also includes the chamois, takin, and the +so-called Rocky Mountain goat of America. The animals +are commonly referred to as "goat-antelopes" in +order to express the intermediate position which they +apparently hold between the goats and antelopes. They +are also sometimes called the Rupicaprine antelopes +from the scientific name of the chamois (<i>Rupicapra</i>).</p> + +<p>The horns of all members of the group are finely +ridged, subcylindrical and are present in both sexes, +being almost as long in the female as in the male. Although +no one would suspect that the gorals are more +closely related to the takins than to the serows, which +they resemble superficially, such seems to be the case, +but the cranial differences between the two genera are +to a certain extent bridged over by the skull of the small +Japanese serow (<i>Capricornulus crispus</i>). This species +is most interesting because of its intermediate position. +In size it is larger than a goral but smaller than a serow; +its long coat and its horns resemble those of a goral but +it has the face gland and short tail of a serow. It is +found in Japan, Manchuria and southern Siberia.</p> + +<p>The principal external difference between the gorals +and serows, besides that of size, is in the fact that the +serows have a short tail and a well developed face gland, +which opens in front of the eyes by a small orifice, while +the gorals have a long tail and no such gland.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f140a" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f140a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Serow Killed on the Snow Mountain</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f140b" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f140b.png" width="367" height="288" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Serow</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">- 141 -</span></p> + +<p>In the cylindrical form of their horns the serows are +similar to some of the antelopes but in their clumsy +build, heavy limbs and stout hoofs as well as in habits +they resemble goats. The serow has a long, melancholy-looking +face and because of its enormous ears the Chinese +in Fukien Province refer to it as the "wild donkey" +but in Yün-nan it is called "wild cow."</p> + +<p>The specific relationships of the serows are by no +means satisfactorily determined. Mr. Pocock, Superintendent +of the London Zoölogical Society's Gardens, +has recently devoted considerable study to the serows +of British India and considers them all to be races of +the single species <i>Capricornis sumatrensis</i>. With this +opinion I am inclined to agree, although I have not yet +had sufficient time in which to thoroughly study the subject +in the light of our new material.</p> + +<p>These animals differ most strikingly in external coloration, +and fall into three groups all of which partake +more or less of the characters of each other. Chinese +serows usually have the lower legs rusty red, while in +Indian races they are whitish, and black in the southern +Burma and Malayan forms.</p> + +<p>The serows which we killed upon the Snow Mountain +can probably be referred to <i>Capricornis +sumatrensis milne-edwardsi</i>, those of Fukien obtained by Mr. +Caldwell represent the white-maned serow <i>Capricornis +sumatrensis argyrochætes</i> and one which I shot in May, +1917, near Teng-yueh, not far from the Burma frontier, +is apparently an undescribed form.</p> + +<p>Our specimens have brought out the fact that a remarkable +individual variation exists in the color of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">- 142 -</span> +legs of these animals; this character was considered to +be of diagnostic value, and probably is in some degree, +but it is by no means as reliable as it was formerly supposed +to be.</p> + +<p>Two of the serows killed on the Snow Mountain +have the lower legs rusty red, while in two others these +parts are buff colored. The animals, all males of +nearly the same age, were taken on the same mountain, +and virtually at the same time. Their skulls exhibit no +important differences and there is no reason to believe +that they represent anything but an extreme individual +variation.</p> + +<p>The two specimens obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping +are even more surprising. The old female is coal +black, but the young male is distinctly brownish-black +with a chestnut stripe from the mane to the tail along +the mid-dorsal line where the hairs of the back form a +ridge. The horns of the female are nearly parallel for +half their extent and approach each other at the tips; +their surfaces are remarkably smooth. The horns of the +young male diverge like a V from the skull and are very +heavily ridged. The latter character is undoubtedly due +to youth.</p> + +<p>These serows are an excellent example of the necessity +for collecting a large number of specimens from +the same locality. Only by this means is it possible to +learn how the species is affected by age, sex and individual +variation and what are its really important characters. +In the case of the gorals, our Expedition obtained +at Hui-yao such a splendid series of all ages +that we have an unequaled opportunity for intelligent +study. Serows are entirely Asian and found in China, +Japan, India, Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">- 143 -</span></p> + +<p>On the Snow Mountain we found them living singly +at altitudes of from 9,000 to 13,000 feet in dense spruce +forests, among the cliffs. The animals seemed to be +fond of sleeping under overhanging rocks, and we were +constantly finding beds which gave evidence of very extensive +use. Apparently serows seldom come out into +the open, but feed on leaves and grass while in the +thickest cover, so that it is almost impossible to kill +them without the aid of dogs or beaters.</p> + +<p>Sometimes a serow will lead the dogs for three or +four miles, and eventually lose them or it may turn at +bay and fight the pack after only a short chase; a large +serow is almost certain to kill several of the hounds if +in a favorable position with a rock wall at its back. +The animal can use its strong curved horns with deadly +effect for it is remarkably agile for a beast of its size.</p> + +<p>In Fukien we hunted serows on the summit of a high +mountain clothed with a dense jungle of dwarf bamboo. +It was in quite different country from that which the +animals inhabit in Yün-nan for although the cover was +exceedingly thick it was without such high cliffs and +there were extensive grassy meadows. We did not see +any serows in Fukien because of the ignorance of our +beaters, although the trails were cut by fresh tracks. +The natives said that in late September the animals +could often be found in the forests of the lower mountain +slopes when they came to browse upon the new +grown mushrooms.</p> + +<p>Mr. Caldwell purchased for us in the market the skin +of a splendid female serow and a short time later obtained +a young male. The latter was seen swimming +across the river just below the city wall and was caught +alive by the natives. The female weighed three +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">- 144 -</span> +hundred and ten pounds and the male two hundred and +ninety pounds.</p> + +<p>Serows are rare in captivity and are said to be rather +dangerous pets unless tamed when very young. We +are reproducing a photograph taken and kindly loaned +by Mr. Herbert Lang, of one formerly living in the +Berlin Zoölogical Garden; we saw a serow in the Zoölogical +Park at Calcutta and one from Darjeeling is +owned by the London Zoölogical Society.</p> + +<p>Gorals are pretty little animals of the size of the +chamois. The species which we killed on the Snow +Mountain can probably be referred to <i>Næmorhedus griseus</i>, +but I have not yet had an opportunity to study our +specimens carefully. Unlike the serows these gorals +have blackish brown tails which from the roots to the +end of the hairs measure about 10 inches in length. The +horns of both sexes are prominently ridged for the basal +half of their length and perfectly smooth distally. The +male horns are strongly recurved and are thick and +round at the base but narrow rapidly to the tips; the +female horns are straighter and more slender. The +longest horns in the series which we received measured +six inches in length and three and three-quarters inches +in circumference at the base. Like the serows, gorals +are confined to Asia and are found in northern India, +Burma, and China, and northwards through Korea and +southern Manchuria.</p> + +<p>We hunted gorals with dogs on the Snow Mountain +for in this particular region they could be killed in no +other way. There was so much cover, even at altitudes +of from 12,000 to 15,000 feet and the rocks were so +precipitous, that a man might spend a month "still +hunting" and never see a goral. They are vicious fighters, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">- 145 -</span> +and often back up to a cliff where they can keep +the dogs at a distance. One of our best hounds while +hunting alone, brought a goral to bay and was found +dead next day by the hunters with its side ripped open.</p> + +<p>On the Snow Mountain we found the animals singly +but at Hui-yao, not far from the Burma frontier, where +we hunted another species in the spring, they were +almost universally in herds of from six to seven or +eight. It was at the latter place that we had our best +opportunity to observe gorals and learn something of +their habits. We were camping on the banks of a +branch of the Shweli River, which had cut a narrow +gorge for itself; on one side this was seven or eight hundred +feet deep. A herd of about fifty gorals had been +living for many years on one of the mountain sides not +far from the village, and although they were seen constantly +the natives had no weapons with which to kill +them; but with our high-power rifles it was possible to +shoot across the river at distances of from two hundred +to four hundred yards.</p> + +<p>We could scan every inch of the hillside through our +field glasses and watch the gorals as they moved about +quite unconscious of our presence. At this place they +were feeding almost exclusively upon the leaves of low +bushes and the new grass which had sprung up where +the slopes had been partly burned over. We found them +browsing from daylight until about nine o'clock, and +from four in the afternoon until dark. They would +move slowly among the bushes, picking off the new +leaves, and usually about the middle of the morning +would choose a place where the sun beat in warmly upon +the rocks, and go to sleep.</p> + +<p>Strangely enough they did not lie down on their sides, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">- 146 -</span> +as do many hoofed animals, but doubled their forelegs +under them, stretched their necks and hind legs straight +out, and rested on their bellies. It was a most uncomfortable +looking attitude, and the first time I saw an +animal resting thus I thought it had been wounded, but +both Mr. Heller and myself saw them repeatedly at +other times, and realized that this was their natural position +when asleep.</p> + +<p>When frightened, like our own mountain sheep or +goats, they would run a short distance and stop to look +back. This was usually their undoing, for they offered +excellent targets as they stood silhouetted against the +sky. They were very difficult to see when lying down +among the rocks, but our native hunters, who had most +extraordinary eyesight, often would discover them when +it was almost impossible for me to find them even with +the field glasses. We never could be sure that there +were no gorals on a mountain-side, for they were adepts +at hiding, and made use of a bunch of grass or the smallest +crevice in a rock to conceal themselves, and did it +so completely that they seemed to have vanished from +the earth.</p> + +<p>Like all sheep and goats, they could climb about where +it seemed impossible for any animal to move. I have +seen a goral run down the face of a cliff which appeared +to be almost perpendicular, and where the dogs dared +not venture. As the animal landed on a projecting rock +it would bounce off as though made of rubber, and leap +eight or ten feet to a narrow ledge which did not seem +large enough to support a rabbit.</p> + +<p>The ability to travel down such precipitous cliffs is +largely due to the animal's foot structure. Professor +Henry Fairfield Osborn has investigated this matter in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">- 147 -</span> +the mountain goat and as his remarks apply almost +equally well to the goral, I cannot do better than quote +them here:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The horny part of the foot surrounds only the extreme +front. Behind this crescentic horn is a shallow concavity which +gives the horny hoof a chance to get its hold. Both the main +digits and the dewclaws terminate in black, rubber-like, rounded +and expanded soles, which are of great service in securing a +firm footing on the shelving rocks and narrow ledges on which +the animal travels with such ease. This sole, Smith states, +softens in the spring of the year, when the snow is leaving the +ground, a fresh layer of the integument taking its place. The +rubber-like balls with which the dewclaws are provided are by +no means useless; they project back below the horny part of +the hoof, and Mr. Smith has actually observed the young captive +goats supporting themselves solely on their dewclaws on +the edge of a roof. It is probable that they are similarly used +on the rocks and precipices, since on a very narrow ledge they +would serve favorably to alter the center of gravity by enabling +the limb to be extended somewhat farther forward.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> "Mountain Goat Hunting with the Camera," by Henry Fairfield +Osborn. Reprinted from the tenth <i>Annual Report of the New +York Zoölogical Society</i>, 1906, pp. 18-14.</p> + +</div> + +<p>There were certain trails leading over the hill slopes +at Hui-yao which the gorals must have used continually, +judging by the way in which these were worn. We also +found much sign beneath overhanging rocks and on +projecting ledges to indicate that these were definite +resorts for numbers of the animals. Many which we +saw were young or of varying ages running with the +herds, and it was interesting to see how perfectly they +had mastered the art of self-concealment even when +hardly a year old. Although at Hui-yao almost all +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">- 148 -</span> +were on the east side of the river, they did not seem to +be especially averse to water, and several times I +watched wounded animals swim across the stream.</p> + +<p>Gorals are splendid game animals, for the plucky little +brutes inspire the sportsman with admiration, besides +leading him over peaks which try his nerve to the +utmost, and I number among the happiest hours of my +life the wonderful hunts in Yün-nan, far above the +clouds, at the edge of the snow.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">- 149 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE "WHITE WATER"</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">October</span> had slipped into November when we left +the temple and shifted camp to the other side of the +Snow Mountain at the "White Water." It was a brilliant +day and the ride up the valley could not have been +more beautiful. Crossing the <i>gangheisa</i> or "dry sea," +a great grassy plain which was evidently a dry lake +basin, we followed the trail into the forest and down +the side of a deep cañon to a mountain stream where +the waters spread themselves in a thin, green veil over +a bed of white stones.</p> + +<p>We pitched our tents on a broad terrace beside the +stream at the edge of the spruce forest. Above us towered +the highest peak of the mountain, with a glacier +nestling in a basin near its summit, and the snow-covered +slopes extending in a glorious shining crescent about +our camp. The moon was full, and each night as we +sat at dinner before the fire, the ragged peaks turned +crimson in the afterglow of the sun, and changed to +purest silver at the touch of the white moonlight. We +have had many camps in many lands but none more +beautiful than the one at the "White Water."</p> + +<p>The weather was perfect. Every day the sun shone +in a cloudless blue sky and in the morning the ground +was frozen hard and covered with snowlike frost, but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">- 150 -</span> +the air was marvelously stimulating. We felt that we +could be happy at the "White Water" forever, but it +did not prove to be as good a hunting ground as that +on the other side of the mountain. The Lolos killed +a fine serow on the first day and Hotenfa brought in +a young goral a short time later, but big game was by +no means abundant. At the "White Water" we obtained +our first Lady Amherst's pheasant (<i>Thaumalea +amherstiæ</i>) one of the most remarkable species of a +family containing the most beautiful birds of the world. +The rainbow colored body and long tail of the male are +made more conspicuous by a broad white and green ruff +about the neck. The first birds brought alive to England +were two males which had been presented to the +Countess Amherst after whom the species was named. +We found this pheasant inhabiting thick forests where +it is by no means easy to discover or shoot. It is fairly +abundant in Yün-nan, Eastern Tibet and S'suchuan +but its habits are not well known. Although the camp +yielded several small mammals new to our collection, +we decided to go into Li-chiang to engage a new caravan +for our trip across the Yangtze River while Heller +remained in camp.</p> + +<p>The direct road to Li-chiang was considerably shorter +than by way of the Snow Mountain village and at three +o'clock in the afternoon our beloved "Temple of the +Flowers" was visible on the hilltop overlooking the city. +As we rode up the steep ascent we saw a picturesque +gathering on the porch and heard the sound of many +voices laughing and talking. The beautiful garden-like +courtyard was filled with women and children of every +age and description, and all the doors from one side +of the temple had been removed, leaving a large open +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">- 151 -</span> +space where huge cauldrons were boiling and steaming.</p> + +<p>We sat down irresolutely on the inner porch but the +young priest was delighted to see us and insisted that +we wait until Wu arrived. We were glad that we did +not seek other quarters for we were to witness an +interesting ceremony, which is most characteristic of +Chinese life. It seemed that about five years before +a gentleman of Li-chiang had "shuffled off this mortal +coil." His soul may have found rest, but "his mortal +coil" certainly did not. Unfortunately his family inherited +a few hundred dollars several years later and +the village "astrologer" informed them that according +to the <i>feng-shui</i>, or omnipotent spirits of the earth, +wind, and water, the situation of the deceased gentleman's +grave was ill-chosen and that if they ever hoped +to enjoy good fortune again they must dig him up, +give the customary feast in his honor and have another +burial site chosen.</p> + +<p>Every village has a "wise man" who is always called +upon to select the resting place of the dead, his remuneration +varying from two dollars to two thousand +dollars according to the circumstances of the deceased's +relatives. The astrologer never will say definitely whether +or not the spot will prove a propitious one and if the +family later sell any property, receive a legacy, or are +known to have obtained money in other ways, the astrologer +usually finds that the <i>feng-shui</i> do not favor +the original place and he will exact another fee for +choosing a second grave.</p> + +<p>The dead are never buried until the astrologer has +named an auspicious day as well as an appropriate site, +with the result that unburied coffins are to be seen +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">- 152 -</span> +in temples, under roadside shelters, in the fields and in +the back yards of many houses.</p> + +<p>Any interference by foreigners with this custom is +liable to bring about dire results as in the case of the +rioting in Shanghai in 1898. A number of French residents +objected to a temple near by being used to store +a score or more of bodies until a convenient time for +burial and the result was the death of many people in +the fighting which ensued. Mr. Tyler Dennet cites an +amusing anecdote regarding the successful handling +of the problem by a native mandarin in Yen-ping where +we visited Mr. Caldwell:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The doctor pointed out how dangerous to public health was +the presence of these coffins in Yen-ping. The magistrate +had a census taken of the coffins above ground in the city and +found that they actually numbered sixteen thousand. The city +itself is estimated to have only about twenty thousand inhabitants.</p> + +<p>It was a difficult problem for the magistrate. He might easily +move in such a way as to bring the whole city down about his +head. But the Chinese are clever in such situations, perhaps +the cleverest people on earth. He finally devised a way out. A +proclamation was issued levying a tax of fifty cents on every +unburied coffin. The Chinese may be superstitious, but they +are even more thrifty. For a few weeks Yen-ping devoted itself +to funerals, a thousand a week, and now this little city, +one of the most isolated in China, can truly be said to be on +the road to health.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> "Doctoring China," by Tyler Dennet, <i>Asia</i>, February, 1918, +p. 114.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f152a" style="width: 368px;"> + <img src="images/img_f152a.png" width="368" height="500" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The "White Water"</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">- 153 -</span></p> + +<p>There are very few such progressive cities in China, +however, and a missionary told us that recently a young +child and his grandfather were buried on the same day +although their deaths had been nearly fifty years apart. +The funeral rites are in themselves fairly simple, but +it is the great ambition of every Chinese to have his +resting place as near as possible to those of his ancestors. +That is one of the reasons why they are so loath to +emigrate.</p> + +<p>We often passed eight or ten coolies staggering under +the load of a heavy coffin, transporting a body sometimes +a month's journey or more to bury it at the dead +man's birthplace. A rooster usually would be fastened +to the coffin for, according to the Yün-nan superstition, +the spirit of the man enters the bird and is conveyed +by it to his home.</p> + +<p>There is a strange absence of the fear of death among +the Chinese. One often sees large planks of wood stored +in a corner of a house and one is told that these are +destined to become the coffins of the man's father or +mother, even though his parents may at the time be enjoying +the most robust health. Indeed, among the +poorer classes, a coffin is considered a most fitting gift +for a son to present to his father.</p> + +<p>We established our camp on the porch of the temple +at Li-chiang and from its vantage point could watch +the festivities going on about us. The feasting continued +until after dark and at daylight the kettles were +again steaming to prepare for the second day's celebration.</p> + +<p>By ten o'clock the court was crowded and a hour +later there came a partial stillness which was broken by +a sudden burst of music (?) from Chinese violins and +pipes. Going outside we found most of the guests +standing about an improvised altar. The foot of the +coffin was just visible in the midst of the paper decorations +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">- 154 -</span> +and in front of it were set half a dozen dishes +of tempting food. These were meant as an offering +to the spirit of the departed one, but we knew this would +not prevent the sorrowing relatives from eating the food +with much relish later on.</p> + +<p>In a few moments a group of women approached, supporting +a figure clothed in white with a hood drawn +over her face. She was bent nearly to the ground and +muffled shrieks and wails came from the depths of her +veil as she prostrated herself in front of the altar. For +more than an hour this chief mourner, the wife of the +deceased, lay on her face, her whole figure shaking +with what seemed the most uncontrollable anguish. This +same lady, however, moved about later among her guests +an amiable hostess, with beaming countenance, the gayest +of the gay. But every morning while the festivities +lasted, promptly at eleven o'clock she would prostrate +herself before the coffin and display heartrending grief +in the presence of the unmoved spectators in order to +satisfy the demands of "custom."</p> + +<p>Custom and precedent have grown to be divinities +with the Chinese, and such a display of feigned emotion +is required on certain prescribed occasions. As one +missionary aptly described it "the Chinese are all face +and no heart." Mr. Caldwell told us that one night +while passing down a deserted street in a Chinese village +he was startled to hear the most piercing shrieks +issuing from a house nearby. Thinking someone was +being murdered, he rushed through the courtyard only +to find that a girl who was to be married the following +day, according to Chinese custom, was displaying the +most desperate anguish at the prospect of leaving her +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">- 155 -</span> +family, even though she probably was enchanted with +the idea.</p> + +<p>On the third day of the celebration in the temple at +Li-chiang the feasting ended in a burst of splendor. +From one o'clock until far past sundown the friends +and relatives of the departed one were fed. Any person +could receive an invitation by bringing a small present, +even if it were only a bowl of rice or a few hundred cash +(ten or fifteen cents).</p> + +<p>All during the morning girls and women flocked up +the hill with trays of gifts. There were many Mosos +and other tribesmen among them as well as Chinese. +The Moso girls wore their black hair cut short on the +sides and hanging in long narrow plaits down their +backs. They wore white leather capes (at least that was +the original shade) and pretty ornaments of silver and +coral at their throats, and as they were young and gay +with glowing red cheeks and laughing eyes they were +decidedly attractive. The guests were seated in groups +of six on the stones of the temple courtyard. Small +boys acted as waiters, passing about steaming bowls of +vegetables and huge straw platters heaped high with rice. +As soon as each guest had stuffed himself to satisfaction +he relinquished his place to someone else and the +food was passed again. We were frequently pressed +to eat with them and in the evening when the last guest +had departed the "chief mourner" brought us some delicious +fruit candied in black sugar. She told Wu that +they had fed three hundred people during the day and +we could well believe it. The next morning the coffin +was carried down the hill to the accompaniment of anguished +wails and we were left once more to the peace +and quiet of our beautiful temple courtyard.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">- 156 -</span></p> + +<p>Sometimes a family will plunge itself into debt for +generations to come to provide a suitable funeral for +one of its members, because to bury the dead without +the proper display would not only be to "lose face" +but subject them to the possible persecution of the angered +spirits. This is only one of the pernicious results +of ancestor worship and it is safe to say that most +of the evils in China's social order today can be traced, +directly or indirectly, to this unfortunate practice.</p> + +<p>A man's chief concern is to leave male descendants +to worship at his grave and appease his spirit. The +more sons, grandsons, and great-grandsons who walk in +his funeral procession, the more he is to be envied. As +a missionary humorously says "the only law of God +that ever has been obeyed in China is to be fruitful and +multiply." Craving for progeny has brought into existence +thousands upon thousands of human beings who +exist on the very brink of starvation. Nowhere in the +civilized world is there a more sordid and desperate +struggle to maintain life or a more hopeless poverty. +But fear and self-love oblige them to continue their blind +breeding. The apparent atrophy of the entire race is +due to ancestor worship which binds it with chains of +iron to its dead and to its past, and not until these bonds +are severed can China expect to take her place among +the progressive nations of the earth.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">- 157 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">ACROSS THE YANGTZE GORGE</p> + + +<p>In mid-November we left the White Water with a +caravan of twenty-six mules and horses. Following the +road from Li-chiang to the Yangtze, we crossed the +"Black Water" and climbed steadily upward over several +tremendous wooded ridges, each higher than the +last, to the summit of the divide.</p> + +<p>The descent was gradual through a magnificent pine +and spruce forest. Some of the trees were at least one +hundred and fifty feet high, and were draped with +beautiful gray moss which had looped itself from +branch to branch and hung suspended in delicate +streamers yards in length. The forest was choked with +underbrush and a dense growth of dwarf bamboo, and +the hundreds of fallen logs, carpeted with bronze moss, +made ideal conditions for small mammal collecting. +However, as all the species would probably be similar +to those we had obtained on the Snow Mountain, we +did not feel that it was worth while stopping to trap.</p> + +<p>At four-thirty in the afternoon we camped upon a +beautiful hill in a pine forest which was absolutely +devoid of underbrush, and where the floor was thinly +overlaid with brown pine needles. Although the Moso +hunter, who acted as our guide, assured us that the river +was only three miles away, it proved to be more than +fifteen, and we did not reach the ferry until half past +one the next afternoon.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">- 158 -</span></p> + +<p>We were continually annoyed, as every traveler in +China is, by the inaccuracy of the natives, and especially +of the Chinese. Their ideas of distance are most +extraordinary. One may ask a Chinaman how far it +is to a certain village and he will blandly reply, "Fifteen +<i>li</i> to go, but thirty <i>li</i> when you come back." After a +short experience one learns how to interpret such an +answer, for it means that when going the road is down +hill and that the return uphill will require double the +time.</p> + +<p>Caravans are supposed to travel ten <i>li</i> an hour, although +they seldom do more than eight, and all calculations +of distance are based upon time so far as the +<i>mafus</i> are concerned. If the day's march is eight hours +you invariably will be informed that the distance is +eighty <i>li</i>, although in reality it may not be half as +great.</p> + +<p>In "Chinese Characteristics," Dr. Arthur H. Smith +gives many illuminating observations on the inaccuracy +of the Chinese. In regard to distance he says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>It is always necessary in land travel to ascertain, when the +distance is given in "miles" (<i>li</i>), whether the "miles" are +"large" or not! That there is some basis for estimates of distances +we do not deny, but what we do deny is that these estimates +or measurements are either accurate or uniform.</p> + +<p>It is, so far as we know, a universal experience that the moment +one leaves a great imperial highway the "miles" become +"long." If 120 <i>li</i> constitute a fair day's journey on the main +road, then on country roads it will take fully as long to go 100 +<i>li</i>, and in the mountains the whole day will be spent in getting +over 80 <i>li</i> (p. 51).</p> + +<p>In like manner, a farmer who is asked the weight of one of +his oxen gives a figure which seems much too low, until he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">- 159 -</span> +explains that he has omitted to estimate the bones! A servant +who was asked his height mentioned a measure which was +ridiculously inadequate to cover his length, and upon being +questioned admitted that he had left out of account all above his +shoulders! He had once been a soldier, where the heft of the +men's clavicle is important in assigning the carrying of burdens. +And since a Chinese soldier is to all practical purposes +complete without his head, this was omitted.</p> + +<p>Of a different sort was the measurement of a rustic who +affirmed that he lived "ninety <i>li</i> from the city," but upon cross-examination +he consented to an abatement, as this was reckoning +both to the city and back, the real distance being as he admitted, +only "forty-five <i>li</i> one way!" (p. 49) ...</p> + +<p>The habit of reckoning by "tens" is deep-seated, and leads +to much vagueness. A few people are "ten or twenty," a "few +tens," or perhaps "ever so many tens," and a strictly accurate +enumeration is one of the rarest of experiences in China.... +An acquaintance told the writer that two men had spent "200 +strings of cash" on a theatrical exhibition, adding a moment +later, "It was 173 strings, but that is the same as 200—is it +not?" (p. 64).</p> + +<p>A man who wished advice in a lawsuit told the writer that +he himself "lived" in a particular village, though it was obvious +from his narrative that his abode was in the suburbs of a city. +Upon inquiry, he admitted that he did not <i>now</i> live in the village, +and further investigation revealed the fact that the removal +took place nineteen generations ago! "But do you not +almost consider yourself a resident of the city now?" he was +asked. "Yes," he replied simply, "we do live there now, but +the old root is in that village."</p> + +<p>... The whole Chinese system of thinking is based on a +line of assumptions different from those to which we are accustomed, +and they can ill comprehend the mania which seems to +possess the Occidental to ascertain everything with unerring +exactness. The Chinese does not know how many families there +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">- 160 -</span> +are in his native village, and he does not wish to know. What +any human being can want to know this number for is to him +an insoluble riddle. It is "a few hundred," "several hundreds" +or "not a few," but a fixed and definite number it never was +and never will be. (p. 65.)</p> +</div> + +<p>After breaking camp on the day following our departure +from the "White Water" we rode along a +broad trail through a beautiful pine forest and in the +late morning stood on an open summit gazing on one +of the most impressive sights which China has to offer. +At the left, and a thousand feet below, the mighty +Yangtze has broken through the mountains in a gorge +almost a mile deep; a gorge which seems to have been +carved out of the solid rock, sharp and clean, with a +giant's knife. A few miles to the right the mountains +widen, leaving a flat plain two hundred feet above the +river. Every inch of it, as well as the finger-like valleys +which stretch upward between the hills, is under +cultivation, giving support for three villages, the largest +of which is Taku.</p> + +<p>The ferry is in a bad place but it is the only spot for +miles where the river can be crossed. The south bank +is so precipitous that the trail from the plain twists and +turns like a snake before it emerges upon a narrow +sand and gravel beach. The opposite side of the river +is a vertical wall of rock which slopes back a little at +the lower end to form a steep hillside covered with short +grass. The landing place is a mass of jagged rocks +fronting a small patch of still water and the trail up the +face of the cliff is so steep that it cannot be climbed by +any loaded animal; therefore all the packs must be unstrapped +and laboriously carted up the slope on the +backs of the <i>mafus</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">- 161 -</span></p> + +<p>At two-thirty in the afternoon we were loading the +boat, which carried only two animals and their packs, +for the first trip across the river. It was difficult to +get the mules aboard for they had to be whipped, shoved +and actually lifted bodily into the dory. One of the +ferrymen first drew the craft along the rocks by a long +rope, then climbed up the face of what appeared to be +an absolutely flat wall, and after pulling the boat close +beneath him, slid down into it. In this way the dory was +worked well up stream and when pushed into the swift +current was rowed diagonally to the other side.</p> + +<p>After four loads had been taken over, the boatmen +decided to stop work although there was yet more than +an hour of daylight and they could not be persuaded to +cross again by either threats or coaxing. It was an +uncomfortable situation but there was nothing to do +but camp where we were even though the greater part +of our baggage was on the other side, with only the +<i>mafus</i> to guard it, and therefore open to robbery.</p> + +<p>About a third of a mile from the ferry we found a +sandy cornfield on a level shelf just above the water, +and pitched our tents. A slight wind was blowing and +before long we had sand in our shoes, sand in our beds, +sand in our clothes, and we were eating sand. Heller +went down the river with a bag of traps while we set +forty on the hills above camp, and after a supper of +goral steak, which did much to allay the irritation of +the day, we crawled into our sandy beds.</p> + +<p>At daylight Hotenfa visited the ferry and reported +that the loads were safe but that one of the boatmen +had gone to the village and no one knew when he would +return. We went to the river with Wu as soon as +breakfast was over and spent an aggravating hour trying +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">- 162 -</span> +by alternate threats and cajoling to persuade the +remaining ferryman to cross the river to us. But it +was useless, for the louder I swore the more frightened +he became and he finally retired into a rock cave from +which the <i>mafus</i> had to drag him out bodily and drive +him into the boat.</p> + +<p>The second boatman ambled slowly in about ten +o'clock and we felt like beating them both, but Wu +impressed upon us the necessity for patience if we ever +expected to get our caravan across and we swallowed +our wrath; nevertheless, we decided not to leave until +the loads and mules were on the other side, and we ate +a cold tiffin while sitting on the sand.</p> + +<p>Heller employed his time by skinning the twenty +small mammals (one of which was a new rat) that our +traps had yielded. We took a good many photographs +and several rolls of "movie" film showing the efforts of +the <i>mafus</i> to get the mules aboard. Some of them went +in quietly enough but others absolutely refused to step +into the boat. One of the <i>mafus</i> would pull, another +push, a third twist the animal's tail and a fourth lift its +feet singly over the side. With the accompaniment of +yells, kicks, and Chinese oaths the performance was +picturesque to say the least.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f162a" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f162a.png" width="286" height="356" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Liso Hunter Carrying a Flying Squirrel</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f162b" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f162b.png" width="286" height="353" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Chief of Our Lolo Hunters</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">- 163 -</span></p> + +<p>By five o'clock the entire caravan had been taken +across the racing green water and we had some time +before dark in which to investigate the caverns with +which the cliffs above the river are honeycombed. They +were of two kinds, gold quarries and dwelling caves. +The latter consist of a long central shaft, just high +enough to allow a man to stand erect; this widens into +a circular room. Along the sides of the corridor shallow +nests have been scooped out to serve as beds and all +the cooking is done not far from the door. The caves, +although almost dark, make fairly comfortable living +quarters and are by no means as dirty or as evil smelling +as the ordinary native house. The mines are straight +shafts dug into the cliffs where the rock is quarried +and crushed by hand.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">- 164 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THROUGH UNMAPPED COUNTRY</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left the Taku ferry by way of a steep trail +through an open pine and spruce forest along the rim +of the Yangtze gorge where the view was magnificent. +Someone has said that when a tourist sees the Grand +Cañon for the first time he gasps "Indescribable" and +then immediately begins to describe it. Thus it was +with us, but no words can picture the grandeur of this +titanic chasm. In places the rocks were painted in +delicate tints of blue and purple; in others, the sides +fell away in sheer drops of hundreds of feet to the +green torrent below rushing on to the sea two thousand +five hundred miles away.</p> + +<p>The caravan wound along the edge of the gorge all +day and we were left far behind, for at each turn a +view more beautiful than the last opened out before +us, and until every color plate and negative in the +holders had been exposed we worked steadily with the +camera.</p> + +<p>We were traveling northwestward through an unmapped +region which Baron Haendel-Mazzetti had +skirted and reported to be one of vast forests and probably +rich in game. After six hours of riding over almost +bare mountain-sides we passed through a parklike +spruce forest and reached Habala, a long thin village +of mud and stone houses scattered up the sides of +a narrow valley.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">- 165 -</span></p> + +<p>Above and to the left of the village rose ridge after +ridge of dense spruce forest overshadowed by a snow-crowned +peak and cut by deep ravines, the gloomy +depths of which yielded fascinating glimpses of rocky +cliffs—a veritable paradise for serow and goral. Our +camping place was a grassy lawn as flat and smooth as +the putting green of a golf course. Just below the +tents a streamlet of ice-cold water murmured comfortably +to itself and a huge dead tree was lying crushed +and broken for the camp fire.</p> + +<p>The boys turned the beautiful spot into "home" in +half an hour and, after setting a line of traps, we wandered +slowly back through the darkness guided by the +brilliant flames of the fires which threw a warm yellow +glow over our little table spread for dinner.</p> + +<p>We sent men to the village to bring in hunters and +after dinner four or five picturesque Mosos appeared. +They said that there were many serow, goral, muntjac +and some wapiti in the forests above the village, and +we could well believe it, for there was never a more +"likely looking" spot. Although the men did not claim +to be professional hunters, nevertheless they said that +they had good dogs and had killed many muntjac and +other animals.</p> + +<p>They agreed to come at daylight and arrived about +two hours late, which was doing fairly well for natives. +It was a brilliant day just warm enough for comfort +in the sun and we left camp with high hopes. However +it did not take many hours to demonstrate that +the men knew almost nothing about hunting and that +their dogs were useless. Because of the dense cover +"still hunting" was out of the question and, after a +hard climb. We returned to camp to spend the remainder +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">- 166 -</span> +of the afternoon developing photographs and preparing +small mammals.</p> + +<p>Our traps had yielded three new shrews and a silver +mole as well as a number of mice, rats, and meadow +voles of species identical with those taken on the Snow +Mountain. It was evident, therefore, that the Yangtze +River does not act as an effective barrier to the distribution +of even the smallest forms and that the region +in which we were now working would not produce a +different fauna. This was an important discovery from +the standpoint of our distribution records but was also +somewhat disappointing.</p> + +<p>The photographic work already had yielded excellent +results. The Paget color plates were especially +beautiful and the fact that everything was developed +in the field gave us an opportunity to check the quality +of each negative.</p> + +<p>For this work the portable dark room was invaluable. +It could be quickly erected and suspended from +a tree branch or the rafters of a temple and offered an +absolutely safe place in which to develop or load plates. +The moving-picture film required special treatment because +of its size and we usually fastened in the servants' +tent the red lining which had been made for this +purpose in New York. Even then the space was so +cramped that we were dead tired at the end of a few +hours' work.</p> + +<p>One who sits comfortably in a theater or hall and +sees moving-picture film which has been obtained in +such remote parts of the world does not realize the +difficulties in its preparation. The water for developing +almost invariably was dirty and in order to insure +even a moderately clear film it always had to be strained. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">- 167 -</span> +For washing the negative pailful after pailful had to +be carried sometimes from a very long distance, and the +film exposed for hours to the carelessness or curiosity +of the natives. In our cramped quarters perhaps a corner +of the tent would be pushed open admitting a +stream of light; the electric flash lamp might refuse to +work, leaving us in complete darkness to finish the developing +"by guess and by gosh," or any number of +other accidents occur to ruin the film. At most we +could not develop more than three hundred feet in an +afternoon and we never breathed freely until it finally +was dried and safely stored away in the tin cans.</p> + +<p>We left Habala, on November 28, for a village called +Phete where the natives had assured us we would find +good hunters with dogs. For almost the entire distance +the road skirted the rim of the Yangtze gorge and +there the view of the great chasm was even more magnificent +than that we had left. While its sides are not +fantastically sculptured and the colors are softer than +those of the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, nevertheless +its grandeur is hardly less imposing and awe-inspiring. +If Yün-nan is ever made accessible by railroads this +gorge should become a Mecca for tourists, for it is +without doubt one of the most remarkable natural sights +in the world.</p> + +<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon we saw three +clusters of houses on a tableland which juts into a chasm +cut by a tributary of the great river. One of them was +Phete and it seemed that we would reach the village in +half an hour at least, but the road wound so tortuously +around the hillside, down to the stream and up again +that it was an hour and a half before we found a camping +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">- 168 -</span> +place on a narrow terrace a short distance from the +nearest houses.</p> + +<p>Next day we could not go to the village to find +hunters until mid-forenoon because the natives of this +region are very late risers and often have not yet opened +their doors at ten o'clock. This is quite contrary to the +custom in many other parts of China where the inhabitants +are about their work in the first light of dawn.</p> + +<p>The hills above Phete are bare or thinly forested and +every available inch of level ground is under cultivation +with corn and a few rice paddys near the creek; the +latter were a great surprise, for we had not expected +to find rice so far north. The village itself was exceedingly +picturesque but never have we met people of such +utter and hopeless stupidity as its inhabitants. They +were pleasant enough and always greeted us with a +smile and salutation, but their brains seemed not to +have kept pace with their bodies and when asked the +simplest question they would only stare stupidly without +the slightest glimmering of intelligence.</p> + +<p>It required an hour's questioning of a dozen or more +people to glean that there were no hunters in the village +where they had lived all their lives, but Wu, our +interpreter, finally discovered a Chinese who told us of +a hunter in the mountains. He asked how far and the +answer was "Not very far."</p> + +<p>"Well, is it ten <i>li!</i>"</p> + +<p>"I don't know how many <i>li</i>."</p> + +<p>"Have you ever been there?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; it is only a few steps."</p> + +<p>"How long will it take to get there?"</p> + +<p>"About the time of one meal."</p> + +<p>We were not to be deceived, for we had had experience +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">- 169 -</span> +with native ideas of distance, and we ate our tiffin +before starting out on the "few steps." A steep trail +led up the valley and after three hours of steady riding +we reached the hunter's village of three large houses on +a flat strip of cleared ground in the midst of a dense +forest.</p> + +<p>The people looked much like those of Phete but were +rather anemic specimens, and five out of eight had enormous +goiters. They were exceedingly shy at first, +watching us with side glances and through cracks in the +wall. Wu learned that we were the first white persons +they had ever seen. I imagine that much of their unhealthiness +was due to too close intermarriage, for these +families had little intercourse with the people in Phete +who were only "a few steps" away.</p> + +<p>As we were leaving they began to eat their supper +in the courtyard. The principal dish consisted of mixed +cornmeal and rice, boiled squash and green vegetables. +All the women were busy husking corn which was hung +to dry on great racks about the house. These racks +we had noticed in every village since leaving Li-chiang +and they seemed to be in universal use in the north.</p> + +<p>The hunter had a flock of sheep and we purchased +one for $4.40 (Mexican) but there was considerable +difficulty in paying for it since these people had never +seen Chinese money even though living in China itself. +For currency they used chunks of silver the size of a +walnut and worth about one dollar (Mexican). The +Chinese guide finally persuaded the people of the genuineness +of our money and we purchased a few eggs +and a little very delicious wild honey besides the sheep. +These people as well as those of Phete spoke the Li-chiang +dialect but with such variation that even our +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">- 170 -</span> +<i>mafus</i> could understand them only with the greatest +difficulty.</p> + +<p>When we returned to camp we found that the coolie +who had been engaged to carry the motion-picture camera +and tripod had left without the formality of saying +"good-by" or asking for the money which was due him. +We had had considerable trouble with the camera +coolies since leaving Li-chiang. The first one carried +the camera to the Taku ferry with many groans, and +there engaged a huge Chinaman to take his place, for +he thought the load too heavy. It only weighed fifty +pounds, and in the Fukien Province where men seldom +carry less than eighty pounds and sometimes as much +as one hundred and fifty, it would have been considered +as only half a burden. In Yün-nan, however, animals +do most of the pack carrying, and coolies protest at +even an ordinary load.</p> + +<p>We left Phete in the early morning and camped +about five hundred feet above the hunter's cabin in a +beautiful little meadow. It was surrounded with splendid +pine trees, and a clear spring bubbled up from a +knoll in the center and spread fan-shaped in a dozen +little streams over the edge of a deep ravine where a +mountain torrent rushed through a tangled bamboo +jungle. The gigantic fallen trees were covered inches +deep with green moss, and altogether it was an ideal +spot for small mammals. Our traps, however, yielded +no new species, although we secured dozens of specimens +every night.</p> + +<p>There were a few families of Lolos about two miles +away and these were engaged as hunters. They told +us that serow and muntjac were abundant and that +wapiti were sometimes found on the mountains several +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">- 171 -</span> +miles to the northward. Although the men had a large +pack of good dogs they were such unsatisfactory hunters +that we gave up in disgust after three days. They +never would appear until ten or eleven o'clock in the +morning when the sun had so dried the leaves that the +scent was lost and the dogs could not follow a trail even +if one were found. Moreover, the camp was a very uncomfortable +one, due to the wind which roared through +the trees night and day.</p> + +<p>We were rejoined here by Hotenfa, who had left us +at the Taku ferry to see if he could get together a pack +of dogs. He brought three hounds with him which he +praised exuberantly, but we subsequently found that +they did not justify our hopes. Nevertheless, we were +glad to have Hotenfa back, for he was one of the most +intelligent, faithful, and altogether charming natives +whom we met in all Yün-nan. He was an uncouth savage +when he first came to us, but in a very short time +he had learned our camp ways and was as good a servant +as any we had.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">- 172 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">TRAVELING TOWARD TIBET</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Since</span> the hunters at the "Windy Camp" had proved +so worthless and the traps had yielded no small mammals +new to our collection, we decided to cross the +mountains toward the Chung-tien road which leads into +Tibet.</p> + +<p>The head <i>mafu</i> explored the trail and reported that +it was impassable but, after an examination of some of +the worst barriers, we decided that they could be cleared +away and ordered the caravan to start at half past seven +in the morning.</p> + +<p>Before long we found that the <i>mafus</i> were right. +The trail was a mass of tangled underbrush and fallen +logs and led straight up a precipitous mountain through +a veritable jungle of dwarf bamboo. It was necessary +to stop every few yards to lift the loads over a barrier +or cut a passage through the bamboo thickets, and had +it not been for the adjustable pack saddles we never +could have taken the caravan over the trail.</p> + +<p>Late in the afternoon the exhausted men and animals +dragged themselves to the summit of the mountain, for +it was not a pass. In a few hours we had come from +autumn to mid-winter where the ground was frozen and +covered with snow. We were at an altitude of more +than 15,000 feet and far above all timber except the +rhododendron forest which spread itself out in a low +gray mass along the ridges. It was difficult to make +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">- 173 -</span> +the slightest exertion in the thin air and a bitterly cold +wind swept across the peaks so that it was impossible +to keep warm even when wrapped in our heaviest coats.</p> + +<p>The servants and <i>mafus</i> suffered considerably but it +was too late to go on and there was no alternative but +to spend the night on the mountain. As soon as the +tents were up the men huddled disconsolately about the +fire, but we started out with a bag of traps while Heller +went in the opposite direction. We expected to catch +some new mammals during the night, for there were +great numbers of runways on the bare hillsides. The +ground was frozen so solidly that it was necessary to +cut into the little <i>Microtus</i> tunnels with a hatchet in +order to set the traps and we were almost frozen before +the work was completed. The next morning we had +caught twenty specimens of a new white-bellied meadow +vole and a remarkable shrew with a long curved proboscis.</p> + +<p>Everyone had spent an uncomfortable night, for it +was bitterly cold even in our sleeping bags and the men +had sat up about the fire in order to keep from freezing. +There was little difficulty in getting the caravan started +in the gray light of early dawn and after descending +abruptly four thousand feet on a precipitous trail to a +Lolo village strung out along a beautiful little valley +we were again in the pleasant warmth of late autumn.</p> + +<p>The natives here had never before seen a white person +and in a few moments our tents were surrounded by +a crowd of strange-looking men and boys. The chief +of the village presented us with an enormous rooster +and we made him happy by returning two tins of cigarettes. +The Lolo women, the first we had seen, were +especially surprising because of their graceful figures +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">- 174 -</span> +and handsome faces. Their flat turbans, short jackets, +and long skirts with huge flounces gave them a rather +old-fashioned aspect, quite out of harmony with the +metal neck-bands, earrings, and bracelets which they +all wore.</p> + +<p>The men were exceedingly pleasant and made a picturesque +group in their gray and brown felt capes which +they gather about the neck by a draw string and, to +the Lolos and Mosos alike, are both bed and clothing. +We collected all the men for their photographs, and +although they had not the slightest idea what we were +about they stood quietly after Hotenfa had assured +them that the strange-looking instrument would not +go off. But most interesting of all was their astonishment +when half an hour later they saw the negative and +were able to identify themselves upon it.</p> + +<p>The Lolos are apparently a much maligned race. +They are exceedingly independent, and although along +the frontier of their own territory in S'suchuan they +wage a war of robbery and destruction it is not wholly +unprovoked. No one can enter their country safely unless +he is under the protection of a chief who acts as a +sponsor and passes him along to others. Mr. Brooke, +an Englishman, was killed by the Lolos, but he was not +properly "chaperoned," and Major D'Ollone of the +French expedition lived among them safely for some +time and gives them unstinted praise.</p> + +<p>Whenever we met tribesmen in Yün-nan who had +not seen white persons they behaved much like all other +natives. They were, of course, always greatly astonished +to see our caravan descend upon them and were +invariably fascinated by our guns, tents, and in fact +everything about us, but were generally shy and decidedly +less offensive in their curiosity than the Chinese +of the larger inland towns to whom foreigners are by +no means unknown. As a matter of fact we have found +that our white skins, light eyes, and hair are a never +failing source of interest and envy to almost all Orientals.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f174a" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f174a.png" width="367" height="284" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Lolo Village</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f174b" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f174b.png" width="366" height="282" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Lolos Seeing Their Photographs for the First Time</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">- 175 -</span></p> + +<p>Yvette usually excited the most curiosity, especially +among the women, and as she wore knickerbockers and +a flannel shirt there were times when the determination +of her sex seemed to call forth the liveliest discussion. +Her long hair, however, usually settled the matter, and +then the women had decided the question of gender +satisfactorily they often made timid, and most amusing, +advances. One woman said she greatly admired her +fair complexion and asked how many baths she took to +keep her skin so white. Another wondered whether it +was necessary to ever comb her hair and almost everyone +wished to feel her clothes and shoes. She always +would command more attention than anyone else by her +camera operations, and a group would stand in speechless +amazement to see her dodge in and out of the portable +dark room when she was developing photographs +or loading plates.</p> + +<p>We made arrangements to go with a number of the +Lolos to a spot fifteen miles away on the Chung-tien +road to hunt wapiti (probably <i>Cervus macneilli</i>) which +the natives call <i>maloo</i>. Our American wapiti, or elk, +is a migrant from Asia by way of the Bering Strait and +is probably a relative of the wapiti which is found in +Central Asia, China, Manchuria and Korea.</p> + +<p>At present these deer are abundant in but few places. +Throughout the Orient, and especially in China, the +growing horns when they are soft, or in the "velvet," +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">- 176 -</span> +are considered of great medicinal value and, during the +summer, the animals are trapped and hunted relentlessly +by the natives. In Yün-nan, when we were there, +a pair of horns were worth $100 (Mexican).</p> + +<p>Thanksgiving morning dawned gray and raw with +occasional flurries of haillike snow, but we did not heed +the cold, for the trail led over two high ridges and along +the rim of a tremendous gorge. To the south the white +summits of the Snow Mountain range towered majestically +above the surrounding peaks and, in the gray +light, the colors were beautiful beyond description. To +the north we could see heavily wooded mountain slopes +interspersed with open parklike meadows—splendid +wapiti country.</p> + +<p>Our tents were pitched two hundred yards from the +Chung-tien road just within the edge of a stately, moss-draped +forest. That night we celebrated with harmless +bombs from the huge fires of bamboo stalks which exploded +as they filled with steam and echoed among the +trees like pistol shots. Marco Polo speaks of the same +phenomenon which he first witnessed in this region over +six hundred and thirty years ago.</p> + +<p>About nine o'clock in the evening we ran our traps +with a lantern and besides several mice (<i>Apodemus</i>) +found two rare shrews and a new mole (<i>Blarina</i>). I +went out with the hunters at dawn but saw nothing except +an old wapiti track and a little sign. All during +the following day a dense fog hung close to the ground +so that it was impossible to hunt, and, on the night of +December 2, it snowed heavily. The morning began +bright and clear but clouded about ten o'clock and became +so bitterly cold that the Lolos would not hunt. +They really suffered considerably and that night they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">- 177 -</span> +all left us to return to their homes. We were greatly +disappointed, for we had brilliant prospects of good +wapiti shooting but without either men or dogs and in +an unknown country there was little possibility of successful +still hunting.</p> + +<p>The <i>mafus</i> were very much worried and refused to go +further north. They were certain that we would not be +able to cross the high passes which lay between us and +the Mekong valley far to the westward and complained +unceasingly about the freezing cold and the lack of food +for their animals. It was necessary to visit the Mekong +River, for even though it might not be a good big game +region it would give us a cross-section, as it were, of the +fauna and important data on the distribution of small +mammals. Therefore we decided to leave for the long +ride as soon as the weather permitted.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">- 178 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">STALKING TIBETANS WITH A CAMERA</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> road near which we were camped was one of the +great trade routes into Tibet and over it caravans were +continually passing laden with tea or pork. Many of +them had traveled the entire length of Yün-nan to +S'su-mao on the Tonking frontier where a special kind +of tea is grown, and were hurrying northward to cross +the snow-covered passes which form the gateways to +the "Forbidden Land."</p> + +<p>The caravans sometimes stopped for luncheon or to +spend the night near our camp. As the horses came up, +one by one the loads were lifted off, the animals turned +loose, and after their dinner of buttered tea and +<i>tsamba</i><a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> each man stretched out upon the ground +without shelter of any kind and heedless of the freezing +cold. It is truly the life of primitive man and has bred +a hardy, restless, independent race, content to wander +over the boundless steppes and demanding from the +outside world only to be let alone.</p> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> <i>Tsamba</i> is parched oats or barley, ground finely.</p> + +</div> + +<p>They are picturesque, wild-looking fellows, and in +their swinging walk there is a care-free independence +and an atmosphere of the bleak Tibetan steppes which +are strangely fascinating. Every Tibetan is a study +for an artist. He wears a fur cap and a long loose coat +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">- 179 -</span> +like a Russian blouse thrown carelessly off one shoulder +and tied about the waist, blue or red trousers, and high +boots of felt or skin reaching almost to the knees. A +long sword, its hilt inlaid with bright-colored bits of +glass or stones, is half concealed beneath his coat, and +he is seldom without a gun or a murderous looking +spear.</p> + +<p>In the breast of his loose coat, which acts as a pocket, +he carries a remarkable assortment of things; a pipe, +tobacco, tea, <i>tsamba</i>, cooking pots, a snuff box and, +hanging down in front, a metal charm to protect him +from bullets or sickness.</p> + +<p>The eastern Tibetans are men of splendid physique +and great strength, and are frequently more than six +feet in height. They have brick-red complexions and +some are really handsome in a full-blooded masculine +way. Their straight features suggest a strong mixture +of other than Mongolian stock and they are the direct +antithesis of the Chinese in every particular. Their +strength and virility and the dashing swing of their +walk are very refreshing after contact with the ease-loving, +effeminate Chinaman whom one sees being carried +along the road sprawled in a mountain chair.</p> + +<p>Of all natives whom we tried to photograph the +Tibetans were the most difficult. It was almost impossible +to bribe them with money or tin cans to stand for +a moment and when they saw the motion picture camera +set up beside the trail they would make long detours to +avoid passing in front of it.</p> + +<p>What we could not get by bribery we tried to do by +stealth and concealed ourselves behind bushes with the +camera focused on a certain spot upon the road. The +instant a Tibetan discovered it he would run like a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">- 180 -</span> +frightened deer and in some mysterious way they seemed +to have passed the word along that our camp was a +spot to be avoided. Sometimes a bottle was too great +a temptation to be resisted, and one would stand timidly +like a bird with wings half spread, only to dash +away as though the devil were after him, when he saw +my head disappear beneath the focusing hood.</p> + +<p>Wu and a <i>mafu</i> who could speak a little Tibetan +finally captured one picturesque looking fellow. He +carefully tucked the tin cans, given for advance payment, +inside his coat, and with a great show of bravery +allowed me to place him where I wished. But the instant +the motion picture camera swung in his direction +he dodged aside, and jumped behind it. Wu tried to +hold him but the Tibetan drew his sword, waved it +wildly about his head and took to his heels, yelling at +the top of his lungs. He was well-nigh frightened to +death and when he disappeared from sight at a curve in +the road he was still "going strong" with his coat tails +flapping like a sail in the wind.</p> + +<p>One caravan came suddenly upon the motion picture +camera unawares. There were several women in the +party and, as soon as the men realized that there was +no escape, each one dodged behind a woman, keeping +her between him and the camera. They were taking no +chances with their precious selves, for the women could +be replaced easily enough if necessary.</p> + +<p>The trouble is that the Tibetan not unnaturally has +the greatest possible suspicion and dislike for strangers. +The Chinese he loathes and despises, and foreigners he +knows only too well are symptoms of missionaries and +punitive expeditions or other disturbances of his immemorial +peace. He is confirmed in his attitude by the +Church which throughout Tibet has the monopoly of +all the gold in the country. And the Church utterly +declines to believe that any foreigner can come so far +for any end less foolish than the discovery of gold and +the infringing of the ecclesiastical monopoly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f180a" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f180a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Travelers in the Mekong Valley</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f180b" style="width: 364px;"> + <img src="images/img_f180b.png" width="364" height="284" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Two Tibetans</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">- 181 -</span></p> + +<p>Major Davies, who saw much of the Yün-nan Tibetans, +has remarked that it is curious how little impression +the civilization and customs of the Chinese have +produced on the Tibetans. Elsewhere, one of the principal +characteristics of Chinese expansion is its power +of absorbing other races, but with the Tibetans exactly +the reverse takes place. The Chinese become Tibetanized +and the children of a Chinaman married to a Tibetan +woman are usually brought up in the Tibetan customs.</p> + +<p>Probably the great cause which keeps the Tibetan +from being absorbed is the cold, inhospitable nature of +his country. There is little to tempt the Chinese to emigrate +into Tibet and consequently they never are there +in sufficient numbers to influence the Tibetans around +them. A similar cause has preserved some of the low-lying +Shan states from absorption, the heat in this case +being the reason that the Chinese do not settle there.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">- 182 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">WESTWARD TO THE MEKONG RIVER</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the night of December 4, there was a heavy +fall of snow and in the morning we awoke to find ourselves +in fairyland. We were living in a great white +palace, with ceiling and walls of filmy glittering webs. +The long, delicate strands of gray moss which draped +themselves from tree to tree and branch to branch were +each one converted into threads of crystal, forming a +filigree lacework, infinitely beautiful.</p> + +<p>It was hard to break camp and leave that silver palace, +for every vista through the forest seemed more +lovely than the one before, but we knew that another +fall of snow would block the passes and shut us out from +the Mekong valley. The <i>mafus</i> even refused to try the +direct route across the mountains to Wei-hsi and insisted +on going southward to the Shih-ku ferry and up +the Yangtze River on the main caravan route.</p> + +<p>It was a long trip and we looked forward with no +pleasure to eight days of hard riding. The difficulty +in obtaining hunters since leaving the Snow Mountain +had made our big game collecting negligible although we +had traveled through some excellent country. The +Mekong valley might not be better but it was an unknown +quantity and, whether or not it yielded specimens, +the results from a survey of the mammal distribution +would be none the less important, and we felt that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">- 183 -</span> +it must be done; otherwise we should have turned our +backs on the north and returned to Ta-li Fu.</p> + +<p>As we rode down the mountain trail we passed caravan +after caravan of Tibetans with heavily loaded +horses, all bound for that land of mystery beyond the +snow-capped barriers. Often we tried to stop some of +the red-skinned natives and persuade them to pose for +a color photograph, but usually they only shook their +heads stubbornly and hurried past with averted faces. +We finally waylaid a Chinese and a Tibetan who were +walking together. The Chinaman was an amiable fellow +and by giving each of them a glass jam tumbler +they halted a moment. As soon as the photograph had +been taken the Chinese indicated that he expected us +to produce one and was thoroughly disgusted when we +showed him that it was impossible.</p> + +<p>Repassing the Lolo village, we followed the river +gorge at the upper end of which Chung-tien is located +and left the forests when we emerged on the main road. +From the top of a ten thousand foot pass there was a +magnificent view down the cañon to the snow-capped +mountains, which were beautiful beyond description in +their changing colors of purple and gold.</p> + +<p>Just after leaving the pass we met a caravan of several +hundred horses each bearing two whole pigs bent +double and tied to the saddles. The animals had been +denuded of hair, salted, and sewn up, and soon would +be distributed among the villages somewhere in the interior +of Tibet.</p> + +<p>On the second day we saw before us seven snow-crowned +peaks as sharp and regular as the teeth of a +saw rising above the mouth of the stream where it +spreads like a fan over a sandy delta and empties into +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">- 184 -</span> +the Yangtze. Here the mighty river, flowing proudly +southward from its home in the wind-blown steppes of +the "Forbidden Land," countless ages ago found the +great Snow Mountain range barring its path. Thrust +aside, it doubled back upon itself along the barrier's +base, still restlessly seeking a passage through the wall +of rock. Far to the north it bit hungrily into the mountain's +side again, broke through, and swung south +gathering strength and volume from hundreds of tributaries +as it rushed onward to the sea.</p> + +<p>For two days we rode along the river bank and +crossed at the Shih-ku ferry. There was none of the +difficulty here which we had experienced at Taku, for +the river is wide and the current slow. It required only +two hours to transport our entire caravan while at the +other ferry we had waited a day and a half. Strangely +enough, although there are dozens of villages along the +Yangtze and the valley is highly cultivated, we saw no +sign of fishing. Moreover, we passed but three boats +and five or six rafts and it was evident that this great +waterway, which for fifteen hundred miles from its +mouth influences the trade of China so profoundly, is +here used but little by the natives.</p> + +<p>On the ride down the river we had good sport with +the huge cranes (probably <i>Grus nigricollis</i>) which, in +small flocks, were feeding along the river fields. The +birds stood about five feet high and we could see their +great black and white bodies and black necks farther +than a man was visible. It was fairly easy to stalk them +to within a hundred yards, but even at that distance they +offered a rather small target, for they were so largely +wings, neck, legs, and tail. We were never within shotgun +range and indeed it would be difficult to kill the +birds with anything smaller than BB or buckshot unless +they were very near.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f184a" style="width: 368px;"> + <img src="images/img_f184a.png" width="368" height="506" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Gorge of the Yangtze River</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">- 185 -</span></p> + +<p>Heller shot our first cranes with his .250-.300 Savage +rifle. He stole upon five which were feeding in a meadow +and fired while two were "lined up." One of the huge +birds flapped about on the ground for a few moments +and lay still, but the larger was only wing-tipped and +started off at full speed across the fields. Two <i>mafus</i> +left the caravan, yelling with excitement, and ran for +nearly half a mile before they overtook the bird. Then +they were kept at bay for fifteen minutes by its long +beak which is a really formidable weapon. As food the +cranes were perfectly delicious when stuffed with chestnut +dressing and roasted. Each one provided two meals +for three of us with enough left over for hash and our +appetites were by no means birdlike.</p> + +<p>Although the natives attempt to kill cranes they are +not often successful, for the birds are very watchful and +will not allow a man within a hundred yards. Such a +distance for primitive guns or crossbows might as well +be a hundred miles, but with our high-power rifles we +were able to shoot as many as were needed for food.</p> + +<p>The birds almost invariably followed the river when +flying and fed in the rice, barley, and corn fields not far +from the water. It was an inspiring sight to see a flock +of the huge birds run for a few steps along the ground +and then launch themselves into the air, their black and +white wings flashing in the sunlight. They formed into +orderly ranks like a company of soldiers or strung out +in a long thin line across the sky.</p> + +<p>When we disturbed a flock from especially desirable +feeding grounds they would sometimes whirl and circle +above the fields, ascending higher and higher in great +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">- 186 -</span> +spirals until they were lost to sight, their musical voices +coming faintly down to us like the distant shouts of +happy children.</p> + +<p>When we returned to Ta-li Fu in early January, +cranes were very abundant in the fields about the lake. +They had arrived in late October and would depart in +early spring, according to Mr. Evans. We often saw +the birds on sand banks along the Yangtze, but they +were usually resting or quietly walking about and were +not feeding; apparently they eat only rice, barley, corn, +or other grain.</p> + +<p>This species was discovered by the great traveler and +naturalist, Lieutenant Colonel Prjevalsky, who found +it in the Koko-nor region of Tibet, and it was later recorded +by Prince Henri d'Orleans from Ts'ang in the +Tibetan highlands. Apparently specimens from Yün-nan +have not been preserved in museums and the bird +was not known to occur in this portion of China.</p> + +<p>Along the Yangtze on our way westward we shot a +good many mallard ducks (<i>Anas boscas</i>) and ruddy +sheldrakes (<i>Casarca casarca</i>); the latter are universally +known as "brahminy ducks" by the foreigners in Burma +and Yün-nan, but they are not true ducks. The name +is derived from the bird's beautiful buff and rufous color +which is somewhat like that of the robes worn by the +Brahmin priests. In America the name "sheldrake" is +applied erroneously to the fish-eating mergansers, and +much confusion has thus arisen, for the two are quite +unrelated and belong to perfectly distinct groups. The +mergansers have narrow, hooked, saw-toothed beaks +quite unlike those of the sheldrakes, and their habits are +entirely dissimilar.</p> + +<p>The brahminy ducks, although rather tough, are not +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">- 187 -</span> +bad eating. We usually found them feeding in fields +not far from the river or in flooded rice dykes, and very +often sitting in pairs on the sand banks near the water. +They have a bisyllabic rather plaintive note which is +peculiarly fascinating to me and, like the honk of the +Canada goose, awakens memories of sodden, wind-blown +marshes, bobbing decoys, and a leaden sky shot +through with V-shaped lines of flying birds.</p> + +<p>Mallards were frequently to be found with the sheldrakes, +and we had good shooting along the river and +in ponds and rice fields. We also saw a few teal but +they were by no means abundant. Pheasants were +scarce. We shot a few along the road and near some of +our camps, but we found no place in Yün-nan where one +could have even a fair day's shooting without the aid of +a good dog. This is strikingly different from Korea +where in a walk over the hillsides a dozen or more +pheasants can be flushed within an hour.</p> + +<p>After two and one-half days' travel up the Yangtze +we turned westward toward Wei-hsi and camped on a +beautiful flat plain beside a tree-bordered stream. It +was a cold clear night and after dinner and a smoke +about the fire we all turned in.</p> + +<p>Both of us were asleep when suddenly a perfect bedlam +of angry exclamations and Chinese curses roused +the whole camp. In a few moments Wu came to our +tent, almost speechless with rage and stammered, +"Damn fool soldiers come try to take our horses; say if +<i>mafu</i> no give them horses they untie loads. Shall I tell +<i>mafu</i> break their heads?" We did not entirely understand +the situation but it seemed quite proper to give +the <i>mafus</i> permission to do the head-breaking, and they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">- 188 -</span> +went at it with a will. After a volley of blows, there +was a scamper of feet on the frozen ground and the +soldiers retired considerably the worse for wear.</p> + +<p>When the battle was over, Wu explained matters +more fully. It appeared that a large detachment of +soldiers had recently passed up this road to A-tun-tzu +and four or five had remained behind to attend to the +transport of certain supplies. Seeing an opportunity +for "graft" the soldiers were stopping every caravan +which passed and threatening to commandeer it unless +the <i>mafus</i> gave a sufficient bribe to buy their immunity. +Our <i>mafus</i>, with the protection which foreigners gave +them, had paid off a few old scores with interest. That +they had neglected no part of the reckoning was quite +evident when next morning two of the soldiers came to +apologize for their "mistake." One of them had a black +and swollen eye and the other was nursing a deep cut +on his forehead; they were exceedingly humble and did +not venture into camp until they had been assured +that we would not again loose our terrible <i>mafus</i> upon +them.</p> + +<p>Such extortions are every day occurrences in many +parts of China and it is little wonder that the military +is cordially hated and feared by the peasants. The soldiers, +taking advantage of their uniform, oppress the +villagers in numberless ways from which there is no redress. +If a complaint is made a dozen soldiers stand +ready to swear that the offense was justified or was +never committed, and the poor farmer is lucky if he +escapes without a beating or some more severe punishment. +It is a disgrace to China that such conditions are +allowed to exist, and it is to be hoped that ere many +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">- 189 -</span> +years have passed the country will awake to a proper +recognition of the rights of the individual. Until she +does there never can be a national spirit of patriotism +in China and without patriotism the Republic can be +one in name only.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">- 190 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">DOWN THE MEKONG VALLEY</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> December 11, we had tiffin on the summit of a +twelve thousand foot pass in a beautiful snow-covered +meadow, from which we could see the glistening peaks +of the vast mountain range which forms the Mekong-Salween +divide. In the afternoon we readied Wei-hsi +and camped in a grove of splendid pine trees on a hill +overlooking the city. The place was rather disappointing +after Li-chiang. The shops were poor and it was +difficult to buy rice even though the entire valley was +devoted to paddy fields, but we did get quantities of +delicious persimmons.</p> + +<p>Wu told us that seven different languages were +spoken in the city, and we could well believe it, for we +recognized Mosos, Lolos, Chinese, and Tibetans. This +region is nearly the extreme western limit of the Moso +tribe which appears not to extend across the Mekong +River.</p> + +<p>The mandarin at Wei-hsi received us hospitably and +proved to be one of the most courteous officials whom +we met in Yün-nan. We were sorry to learn that he +was killed in a horrible way only a few weeks after our +visit. Trouble arose with the peasants over the tax on +salt and fifteen hundred rebelled, attacked the city, and +captured it after a sharp fight. It was reported that +they immediately beheaded the mandarin's wives and +children, and boiled him alive in oil.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f190a" style="width: 515px;"> + <img src="images/img_f190a.png" width="515" height="366" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Quiet Curve of the Mekong River</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">- 191 -</span></p> + +<p>Although the magistrate offered to assist us in every +way we could obtain no information concerning either +hunting grounds or routes of travel. The flying squirrels +which we had hoped to find near the city were reported +to come from a mountain range beyond the Mekong +in Burma, and Wei-hsi was merely a center of distribution +for the skins. Moreover, the natives said it +would be impossible to obtain squirrels at that time of +the year, for the mountain passes were so heavily covered +with snow that neither men nor caravans could cross +them.</p> + +<p>It was desirable, however, to descend to the Mekong +River in order to determine whether there would be a +change in fauna, and on Major Davies' map a small road +was marked down the valley. A stiff climb of a day and +a half over a thickly forested mountain ridge, frozen +and snow-covered, brought us in sight of the green waters +of the Mekong which has carved a gorge for itself +in an almost straight line from the bleak Tibetan +plateaus through Yün-nan and Indo-China to the sea.</p> + +<p>Our second camp was on the river at the mouth of a +deep valley, near a small village. Wu said that the natives +were Lutzus and I was inclined to believe he was +right, although Major Davies indicates this region to be +inhabited by Lisos. At any rate these people both in +physical appearance and dress were quite distinct from +the Lisos whom we met later.</p> + +<p>They were exceedingly pleasant and friendly and the +chief, accompanied by four venerable men, brought a +present of rice. I gave him two tins of cigarettes and +the natives returned to the village wreathed in smiles.</p> + +<p>The garments of the Lutzus were characteristic and +quite unlike those of the Mosos, Lisos or Tibetans. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">- 192 -</span> +women wore a long coat or jacket of blue cloth, trousers, +and a very full pleated skirt. The men were dressed in +plum colored coats and trousers.</p> + +<p>The natives said that monkeys (probably <i>Pygathrix</i>) +were often seen when the corn was ripe and that even yet +they might be found in the forest across the river. Heller +spent a day hunting them, but found none and we obtained +only one new mammal in our traps. It was a tiny +mouse (<i>Micromys</i>) but the remainder of the fauna was +essentially the same as that of the Yangtze valley and the +intervening country.</p> + +<p>For three days we traveled down the Mekong River. +Although the natives said that the trail was good, we discovered +when it was too late that it was too narrow and +difficult to make it practicable for a caravan such as +ours. It was necessary to continually remove the loads +in order to lift them around sharp corners or over rocks, +and the <i>mafus</i> sometimes had to cut away great sections +of the bank. Usually only six or seven miles could be +traversed after eight or nine hours of exhausting work, +and we were glad when we could leave the river.</p> + +<p>The Mekong, on an average, is not more than a hundred +yards wide in this region and, like the Yangtze, the +water is very green from the Tibetan snows. The prevailing +rock is red slate or sandstone instead of limestone, +as in the country to the eastward, and the sides of the +valley are so precipitous that it seems impossible for a +human being to walk over them, and yet they are patched +with brown corn fields from the summit to the water. +Considering the small area available for cultivation there +are a considerable number of inhabitants, who have gathered +into villages and seldom live in isolated houses +as in the Yangtze valley. Wherever a stream comes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">- 193 -</span> +down from the mountain-side or can be diverted by irrigating +ditches, the ground is beautifully terraced for +rice paddys, but in other places, corn and peas appear to +be the principal crops. Very few vegetables, such as turnips, +squash, carrots or potatoes are raised, which is +rather remarkable, as they are so abundant in all the +country between the Mekong and the Yangtze rivers. +In several places the water was spanned by rope bridges. +The cables are made of twisted bamboo, and as one end +must necessarily be higher than the other, there are always +two ropes, one to cross each way. The traveler is +tied by leather thongs in a sitting position to a wooden +"runner" which slides along the bamboo cable and shoots +across the river at tremendous speed.</p> + +<p>The valley is hopeless from a zoölogical standpoint. +It is too dry for small mammals and the mountain slopes +are so precipitous, thinly forested, and generally undesirable, +that, except for gorals, no other large game +would live there. The bird life is decidedly uninteresting. +There are no cranes or sheldrakes and, except for +a few flocks of mallards which feed in the rice fields, we +saw no other ducks or geese.</p> + +<p>On December 20, we turned away from the Mekong +valley and began to march southeast by east across an +unmapped region toward Ta-li Fu. We camped at +night on a pretty ridge thickly covered with spruce trees +just above a deep moist ravine. In the morning our +traps contained several rare shrews, five silver moles, a +number of interesting mice, and a beautiful rufous +spiny rat. It was too good a place to leave and I sent +Hotenfa to inquire from a family of natives if there was +big game of any sort in the vicinity. He reported that +there were goral not far away, and at half past eight +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">- 194 -</span> +we rode down the trail for three miles when I left my +horse at a peasant's house. They told us that the goral +were on a rocky, thinly forested mountain which rose +two thousand feet above the valley, and for an hour +and a half we climbed steadily upward.</p> + +<p>We were resting near the summit on the rim of a deep +cañon when Hotenfa excitedly whispered, "<i>gnai-yang</i>" +and held up three fingers. He tried to show the animals +to me and at last I caught sight of what I thought was a +goral standing on a narrow ledge. I fired and a bit of +rock flew into the air while the three gorals disappeared +among the trees two hundred feet above the spot where +I had supposed them to be.</p> + +<p>I was utterly disgusted at my mistake but we started +on a run for the other side of the gorge. When we arrived, +Hotenfa motioned me to swing about to the right +while he climbed along the face of the rock wall. No +sooner had he reached the edge of the precipice than I +saw him lean far out, fire with my three-barrel gun, and +frantically wave for me to come. I ran to him and, +throwing my arms about a projecting shrub, looked +down. There directly under us stood a huge goral, but +just as I was about to shoot, the earth gave way beneath +my feet and I would have fallen squarely on the animal +had Hotenfa not seized me by the collar and drawn me +back to safety.</p> + +<p>The goral had not discovered where the shower of dirt +and stones came from before I fired hurriedly, breaking +his fore leg at the knee. Without the slightest sign of +injury the ram disappeared behind a corner of the rock. +I dashed to the top of the ridge in time to see him running +at full speed across a narrow open ledge toward a +thick mass of cover on the opposite side of the cañon. I +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">- 195 -</span> +fired just as the animal gained the trees and, at the +crash of my rifle, the goral plunged headlong down the +mountain, stone dead.</p> + +<p>It fell on a narrow slide of loose rock which led nearly +to the bottom of the valley and, slipping and rolling in a +cloud of red dust, dropped over a precipice. The ram +brought up against an unstable boulder five hundred +feet below us, and it required half an hour's hard work +to reach the spot.</p> + +<p>When I finally lifted its head one of the horns which +had been broken in the fall slipped through my fingers, +and away went the goral on another rough and tumble +descent, finally stopping on a rock ledge nearly eleven +hundred feet from the place where it had been shot. We +returned to camp at noon bringing joy with us, for, as +my wife had remarked the day before, "We will soon +have to eat chickens or cans."</p> + +<p>Heller hunted the gorals unsuccessfully the following +day and we left on December 23, camping at night on a +flat terrace beside a stream at the end of a moist ravine. +We intended to spend Christmas here for it was a beautiful +spot, surrounded by virgin forest, but our celebration +was to be on Christmas Eve. The following day +dawned bright and clear. There had not been a drop of +rain for nearly a month and the weather was just warm +enough for comfort in the sun with one's coat off, but at +night the temperature dropped to about 16°+ or 20°+ +Fahr. The camp proved to be a good one, giving us two +new mammals and, just after tiffin, Hotenfa came running +in to report that he had discovered seven gray monkeys +(probably <i>Pygathrix</i>) in a cornfield a mile away.</p> + +<p>The monkeys had disappeared ere we arrived, but +while we were gone Yvette had been busy and, just +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">- 196 -</span> +before dinner, she ushered us into our tent with great ceremony. +It had been most wonderfully transformed. At +the far end stood a Christmas tree, blazing with tiny +candles and surrounded by masses of white cotton, +through which shone red holly berries. Holly branches +from the forest and spruce boughs lined the tent and +hung in green waves from the ridge pole. At the base of +the tree gifts which she had purchased in Hongkong in +the preceding August were laid out.</p> + +<p>Heller mixed a fearful and wonderful cocktail from +the Chinese wine and orange juice, and we drank to each +other and to those at home while sitting on the ground +and opening our packages. We had purchased two Tibetan +rugs in Li-chiang and Wei-hsi, as Christmas presents +for Yvette. These rugs usually are blue or red, +with intricate designs in the center, and are well woven +and attractive.</p> + +<p>To the servants and <i>mafus</i> we gave money and cigarettes. +When the muleteers were brought to the tent to +receive their gifts they evidently thought our blazing +tree represented an altar, for they kneeled down and began +to make the "chin, chin joss" which is always done +before their heathen gods.</p> + +<p>Our Christmas dinner was a masterpiece. Four days +previously I had shot a pair of mallard ducks and they +formed the <i>pièce de résistance</i>. The dinner consisted of +soup, ducks stuffed with chestnuts, currant jelly, baked +squash, creamed carrots, chocolate cake, cheese and +crackers, coffee and cigarettes.</p> + +<p>Christmas day we traveled, and in the late afternoon +passed through a very dirty Chinese town in a deep valley +near some extensive salt wells. Red clay dust lay +thick over everything and the filth of the streets and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">- 197 -</span> +houses was indescribable. We camped in a cornfield a +mile beyond the village, but were greatly annoyed by the +Chinese who insisted on swarming into camp. Finally, +unable longer to endure their insolent stares, I drove +them with stones to the top of the hill, where they sat in +row upon row exactly as in the "bleachers" at an +American baseball game.</p> + +<p>When we left the following day we passed dozens of +caravans and groups of men and women carrying great +disks of salt. Each piece was stamped in red with the +official mark for salt is a government monopoly and only +licensed merchants are allowed to deal in it; moreover, +the importation of salt from foreign countries is forbidden. +For the purposes of administration, China is +divided into seven or eight main circuits, each of which +has its own sources of production and the salt obtained +in one district may not be sold in another.</p> + +<p>In Yün-nan the salt of the province is supplied from +three regions. The water from the wells is boiled in +great cauldrons for several days, and the resulting deposit +is earth impregnated with salt. This is crushed, mixed +with water, and boiled again until only pure salt remains. +After passing a village of considerable size called Peiping, +we began the ascent of an exceedingly steep mountain +range twelve thousand feet high. All the afternoon +we toiled upward in the rain and camped late in the evening +at a pine grove on a little plateau two-thirds of the +way to the summit. During the night it snowed heavily +and we awoke to find ourselves in a transformed world.</p> + +<p>Every tree and bush was dressed in garments of purest +white and between the branches we could look westward +across the valley toward the Mekong and the purple +mountain wall of the Burma border. There were +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">- 198 -</span> +still one thousand feet of climbing between us and the +summit of the pass. The trail was almost blocked, but +by slow work we forced our way through the drifts. +Some of the mules were already weak from exposure and +underfeeding, and two of them had to be relieved of their +loads; they died the next day. Our <i>mafus</i> did not appear +to suffer greatly although their legs were bare from +the knees down and their feet had no covering except +straw sandals. Indeed when we discovered, on the summit +of the pass, a tiny hut in which a fire was burning, +they waited only a few moments to warm themselves.</p> + +<p>We met two other caravans fighting their way up the +mountain from the other side, and by following the trail +which they had broken through the drifts we made fairly +good time on the descent. There had been no snow on +the broad, flat plain which we reached in the late afternoon +and we found that its ponds and fields were alive +with ducks, geese, and cranes. The birds were wild but +we had good shooting when we broke camp in the morning +and killed enough to last us several days.</p> + +<p>On December 31, our weary days of crossing range +after range of tremendous mountains were ended, and +we stood on the last pass looking down upon the great +Chien-chuan plain. Outside the grim walls of the old +city, which lies on the main A-tun-tzu-Ta-li Fu road, +are two large marshy ponds and, away to the south, is an +extensive lake. We camped just without the courtyard +of a fine temple, and at four o'clock Yvette and I went +over to the water which was swarming with ducks and +geese.</p> + +<p>Neither of us will ever forget that shoot in the glorious +afternoon sunlight. Cloud after cloud of ducks rose as +we neared the pond and circled high above our heads, but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">- 199 -</span> +now and then a straggling mallard or "pin tail" would +swing across the sky within range; as my gun roared out +the birds would whirl to the ground like feathered bombs +or climb higher with frightened quacks if the shot went +wild. An hour before dark the brahminy ducks began to +come in. We could hear their melodious plaintive calls +long before we could see the birds, and we flattened ourselves +out in the grass and mud. Soon a thin, black line +would streak the sky, and as they drew nearer, Yvette +would draw such seductive notes from a tiny horn of +wood and bone that the flock would swing and dive toward +us in a rush of flashing wings. When we could see +the brown bodies right above our heads I would sit up +and bang away.</p> + +<p>Now and then a big white goose would drop into the +pond or an ibis flap lazily overhead, seeming to realize +that it had nothing to fear from the prostrate bodies +which spat fire at other birds. The stillness of the marsh +was absolute save for the voices of the water fowl mingled +in the wild, sweet clamor so dear to the heart of +every sportsman. As the day began to die, hung about +with ducks and geese, we walked slowly back across the +rice fields, to the yellow fires before our tents. It was +our last camp for the year and, as if to bid us farewell as +we journeyed toward the tropics, the peaks of the great +Snow Mountain far to the north, had draped themselves +in a gorgeous silver mantle and glistened against a sky +of lavender and gold like white cathedral spires.</p> + +<p>On January 3, we camped early in the afternoon on a +beautiful little plain beside a spring overhung with giant +trees at the head of Erh Hai, or Ta-li Fu Lake, which is +thirty miles long. The fields and marshes were alive +with ducks, geese, cranes, and lapwings, and we had a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">- 200 -</span> +glorious day of sport over decoys and on the water before +we went on to Ta-li Fu.</p> + +<p>Mr. Evans was about to leave for a long business trip +to the south of the province and we took possession of a +pretty temple just within the north gate of the city. +Here we read a great accumulation of mail and learned +that a thousand pounds of supplies which we had ordered +from Hongkong had just arrived.</p> + +<p>Through the good offices of Mr. Howard Page, manager +of the Standard Oil Company of Yün-nan Fu, their +passage through Tonking had been facilitated, and he +had dispatched the boxes by caravan to Ta-li Fu. Mr. +Page rendered great assistance to the Expedition in +numberless ways, and to him we owe our personal thanks +as well as those of the American Museum of Natural +History.</p> + +<p>All the servants except our faithful Wu left at Ta-li +Fu but, with the aid of Mr. Hanna, we obtained a much +better personnel for the trip to the Burma frontier. The +cook, who was one of Mr. Hanna's converts, was an especially +fine fellow and proved to be as energetic and +competent as the other had been lazy and helpless.</p> + +<p>Our work in the north had brought us a collection of +thirteen hundred mammals, as well as several hundred +birds, much material for habitat groups, and a splendid +series of photographic records in Paget color plates, +black and white negatives, and motion picture film. But +what was of first importance, we had covered an enormous +extent of diverse country and learned much about +the distribution of the fauna of northern Yün-nan. The +thirteen hundred mammals of our collection were taken +in a more or less continuous line across six tremendous +mountain ranges, and furnish an illuminating cross section +of the entire region from Ta-li Fu, north to Chung-tien, +and west to the Mekong River.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f200a" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f200a.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Temple in which We Camped at Ta-li Fu</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f200b" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f200b.png" width="365" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Crested Muntjac</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">- 201 -</span></p> + +<p>It is apparent that in this part of the province, which +is all within one "life zone" even the smallest mammals +are widely spread and that the principal factor in determining +distribution is the flora. Neither the highest +mountain ridges nor such deep swift rivers as the +Yangtze and the Mekong appear to act as effective +barriers to migration, and as long as the vegetation +remains constant, the fauna changes but little.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">- 202 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">MISSIONARIES WE HAVE KNOWN</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">During</span> our work in Fukien Province and in various +parts of Yün-nan we came into intimate personal contact +with a great many missionaries; indeed every traveler in +the interior of China will meet them unless he purposely +avoids doing so. But the average tourist seldom sees the +missionary in his native habitat because, for the most +part, he lives and works where the tourist does not go.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, that does not prevent the coastwise +traveler from carrying back with him from the East a +very definite impression of the missionary, which he has +gained on board ships or in Oriental clubs where he hears +him "damned with faint praise." Almost unconsciously +he adopts the popular attitude just as he enlarges his +vocabulary to include "pidgin English" and such unfamiliar +phrases as "tiffin," "bund" and "cumshaw."</p> + +<p>This chapter is not a brief for the missionary, but +simply a matter of fair play. We feel that in justice +we ought to present our observations upon this subject, +which is one of very general interest, as impartially as +upon any phase of our scientific work. But it should be +distinctly understood that we are writing <i>only</i> of those +persons whom we met and lived with, and whose work +we had an opportunity to know and to see; <i>we are not +attempting generalizations on the accomplishments of +missionaries in any other part of China</i>.</p> + +<p>There are three charges which we have heard most +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">- 203 -</span> +frequently brought against the missionary: that he +comes to the East because he can live better and more +luxuriously than he can at home; that he often engages +in lucrative trade with the natives; and that he accomplishes +little good, either religious or otherwise. It is +said that his converts are only "rice Christians," and +treaty-port foreigners have often warned us in this +manner, "Don't take Christian servants; they are more +dishonest and unreliable than any others."</p> + +<p>It is often true that the finest house in a Chinese town +will be that of the resident missionary. In Yen-ping the +mission buildings are imposing structures, and are placed +upon a hill above and away from the rest of the city. +Any white person who has traveled in the interior of +China will remember the airless, lightless, native houses, +opening, as they all do, on filthy streets and reeking +sewers and he will understand that in order to exist at all +a foreigner must be somewhat isolated and live in a clean, +well-ventilated house.</p> + +<p>Every missionary in China employs servants—many +more servants than he could afford at home. So does +every other foreigner, whatever his vocation. There is +no such thing in China as the democracy of the West, +and the missionary's status in the community demands +that certain work in his house be done by servants; otherwise +he and his family would be placed on a level with +the coolie class and the value of his words and deeds be +discounted. But the chief reason is that the missionary's +wife almost always has definite duties to which +she could not attend if she were not relieved from some +of the household cares. She leads in work among the +women of the community by organizing clubs and "Mutual +Improvement Societies" and in teaching in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">- 204 -</span> +schools or hospitals where young men and women are +learning English as an asset to medical work among +their own people. Servants are unbelievably cheap. +While we were in Foochow a cook received $8.50 +(gold) per month, a laundryman $1.75 (gold) per +month, and other wages were in proportion.</p> + +<p>In Fukien Province the missionaries receive two +months' vacation. Anyone who has lived through a +Fukien summer in the interior of the province will know +why the missionaries are given this vacation. If they +were not able to leave the deadly heat and filth and disease +of the native cities for a few weeks every year, +there would be no missionaries to carry on the work. +The business man can surround himself with innumerable +comforts both in his home and in his office which +the missionary cannot afford and, during the summer, +life is not only made possible thereby but even pleasant.</p> + +<p>Yen-ping is eight days' travel from Foochow up the +Min River and it is by no means the most remote station +in the province. Very few travelers reach these places +during the year and the white inhabitants are almost isolated. +Miss Mabel Hartford lives alone at Yuchi and at +one time she saw only one foreigner in eight months. +Miss Cordelia Morgan is the sole foreign resident of +Chu-hsuing Fu, a large Chinese city six days from +Yün-nan Fu. In Ta-li Fu, Reverend William J. Hanna, +his wife and two other women, are fourteen days' ride +from the nearest foreign settlement. In Li-chiang, Reverend +and Mrs. A. Kok and their three small children +live with two women missionaries. They are twenty-one +days' travel from a doctor, and for four years previous +to our visit they had not seen a white woman.</p> + +<p>These are some instances of missionaries whom we met +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">- 205 -</span> +in China who have voluntarily exiled themselves to remote +places where they expect to spend their entire lives +surrounded by an indifferent if not hostile population. +Can anyone possibly believe that they have chosen this +life because it is easier or more luxurious than that at +home?</p> + +<p>Some of the men whom we met had left lucrative business +positions to take up medical or evangelistic work in +China where their compensation is pitifully small—not +one-third of the salary they were commanding at home. +We did not meet any missionaries who were engaging +in trade with the natives even though in some places +there were excellent business opportunities.</p> + +<p>Consider the doctors as examples of the civilizing influences +which missionaries bring with them. We saw +them in various parts of China doing a magnificent wort +Dr. Bradley has established a great leper hospital at +Paik-hoi where these human outcasts are receiving the +latest and most scientific treatment and beginning to +look at life with a new hope. In Yen-ping, at the time +of the rebellion, we saw Dr. Trimble working hour after +hour over wounded and broken men without a thought of +rest. In Yün-nan Fu, Dr. Thompson's hospital was +filled with patients suffering from almost every known +disease. In Ta-li Fu we saw Mr. Hanna and his wife +dispensing medicines and treating the minor ills of patients +waiting by the dozen, the fees received being not +enough to pay for the cost of the medicines. Why is +it that every traveling foreigner in the interior of China +is supposed to be able to cure diseases? Certainly an +important reason is because of the work done by the +medical missionaries who have penetrated to the farthest +corners of the most remote provinces.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">- 206 -</span></p> + +<p>Aside from their medical work, missionaries are in +many instances the real pioneers of western civilization. +They bring to the people new standards of living, both +morally and physically. They open schools and emancipate +the Chinese children in mind and body. They fight +the barbarous customs of foot binding and the killing +and selling of girl babies. Until recent years it was +not unusual to meet the village "baby peddler" with +from two to six tiny infants peddling his "goods" from +village to village. Not many years ago such a man +appeared before the mission compound at Ngu-cheng +(Fukien) with four babies in his basket. Three of +these had expired from exposure and the kerosene oil +which had been poured down their throats to stupefy +them and drown their cries. The fourth was purchased +by the wife of the native preacher for ten cents in order +to save its life. This child was reared and has since +graduated from the mission schools with credit. In +Foochow a stone tablet bearing the following inscription +stands beside a stagnant pool: "Hereafter the +throwing of babies into this pool will be punished by +law." This was a result of the work of the missionaries.</p> + +<p>Their task is by no means easy and, as Mr. Hanna +once remarked, "Yün-nan Province has broken the heart +of more than one missionary." The Chinese do not understand +their point of view, and it is difficult to make +them see it. A Chinaman is a rank materialist and pure +altruism does not enter into his scheme of life. As a rule +he has but two thoughts, his stomach and his cash bag. +It is well-nigh impossible to make him realize that the +missionary has not come with an ulterior motive—if not +to engage in trade, perhaps as a spy for his government. +Others believe that it is because China is so vastly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">- 207 -</span> +superior to the rest of the world that the missionaries wish +to live there. Eventually the suspicions of the natives +become quieted and they accept the missionary at some +part of his true worth.</p> + +<p>At the time of the rebellion in Yen-ping we saw +Harry Caldwell, Mr. Bankhardt and Dr. Trimble save +the lives of hundreds of people and the city from partial +destruction because the Chinese officers of the opposing +forces would trust the missionaries when they would +not trust each other.</p> + +<p>An excellent piece of practical missionary work was +done in Fukien Province, not long after our visit there. +As we have related in Chapter III, several large bands +of brigands were established in the hills about Yuchi. +Brigandage began there in the following way. During +a famine when the people were on the verge of starvation, +a wealthy farmer, Su Ek by name, decided to do +his share in relieving conditions by offering for sale a +quantity of rice which he had accumulated. He approached +another man of similar wealth who agreed +with him to sell his grain at a reasonable price. Su Ek +accordingly disposed of his rice to the suffering people +and, when he had remaining only enough to sustain his +own family until the following harvest, he sent the +peasants to the second man who had also agreed to +dispose of his grain.</p> + +<p>This farmer refused to sell at the stipulated price, +and the people, angered at his treachery, looted his +sheds. He immediately went to Foochow and reported +to the governor that there was a band of brigands abroad +in Yuchi County under the leadership of Su Ek, and +that they had robbed and plundered his property.</p> + +<p>Without warning a company of soldiers swooped +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">- 208 -</span> +down upon the community and arrested a number of +men whose names the informer had given. Su Ek made +his escape to the hills but he was pursued as a brigand +chief, and was later joined by other farmers who had +been similarly persecuted. Unable to return to their +homes on pain of death they were forced to rob in order +to live.</p> + +<p>Su Ek and others were finally decoyed to Foochow +upon the promise that their lives would be spared if +they would induce their band to surrender. They met +the conditions but the government officials broke faith +and the men were executed. Similar attempts were +made to enter into negotiations with the brigands and +in 1915 two hundred were trapped and beheaded after +pardons had been promised them. Naturally the robbers +refused to trust the government officials again.</p> + +<p>The months which elapsed between this act of treachery +and the spring of 1916, were filled with innumerable +outrages. Many townships were completely devastated, +either by the bandits or the Chinese soldiers. +Little will ever be known of what actually took place +under the guise of settling brigandage, behind the +mountains which separate Yuchi from the outer world. +It is well that it should not be known.</p> + +<p>During the spring of 1916 a missionary visited Yuchi. +Business called him outside the city wall and just beyond +the west gate he saw the bodies of ten persons who +had that day been executed. Among these were two +children, brothers, the sons of a man who was reported +to have "sold rice to the brigands." The smaller child +had wept and pleaded to be permitted to kneel beside +his older brother further up in the row. He was too +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">- 209 -</span> +small to realize what it all meant but he wanted to die +beside his brother.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the field lay a man whose head was +partly severed from his body and who had been shot +through and through by the soldiers. He was lying +upon his back in the broiling sun pleading for a cup of +tea or for someone to put him out of his misery. The +missionary learned the man's story. It appeared that +years ago a law suit in which his father had been concerned +had been decided in his favor. In order to +square the score between the clans, the son of the man +who had lost the suit had reported that he had seen this +man carrying rice to the brigands. He had been arrested +by the soldiers, partially killed, and left to lie in +the glaring sun from nine o'clock in the morning until +dark suffering the agonies of crucifixion. Not one +of those who heard his moans dared to moisten the +parched lips with tea lest he too be executed for having +administered to a brigand.</p> + +<p>The missionary returned to the city that night vowing +that he would make a recurrence of such a thing +impossible or he would leave China. He took up the +matter with the authorities in Peking in a quiet way +and later with the military governor in Foochow. He +was well known to the brigands by reputation and visited +several of the chiefs in their strongholds. They +declared that they had confidence in him but none in the +government or its representatives. It was only after +assuming full responsibility for any treachery that the +brigands agreed to discuss terms.</p> + +<p>Upon invitation to accompany him to the 24th Township, +the missionary was escorted out to civilization by +twenty-five picked men to whom the chief had entrusted +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">- 210 -</span> +an important charge. As the group neared the township +the missionary sent word ahead to the commander +of the northern soldiers to prepare to receive the +brigands.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="seal" style="width: 262px;"> + <img src="images/seal.png" width="262" height="373" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Seal of a Pardoned Brigand.</span></div> +</div> + +<p>As the twenty-five bandits appeared upon the summit +of a hill overlooking the city, soldiers could be seen +forming into squads outside the barracks. Instantly +the brigands halted, snapped back the bolts of their +rifles, and threw in shells. The missionary realized that +they suspected treachery and turning about he said, "I +am the guarantee for your lives. If a short is fired kill +me first."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f210a" style="width: 370px;"> + <img src="images/img_f210a.png" width="370" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The South Gate at Yung-chang</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f210b" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f210b.png" width="367" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Bride Returning to Her Mother's +Home at New Year's</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">- 211 -</span></p> + +<p>With two loaded guns at his back and accompanied +by the brigands he marched into the city, where they +were received by the officials with all the punctilious +ceremony so dear to the heart of the Chinese. It had +been a dangerous half hour for the missionary. If a +rifle had been fired by mistake, and Chinese are always +shooting when they themselves least expect to, he would +have been instantly killed.</p> + +<p>This conference, and others which followed, resulted +in several hundred pardons being distributed to +the brigands by the missionary himself. The men +then returned to their abandoned homes and again took +up their lives as respectable farmers. Thus the reign +of terror in this portion of the province was ended +through the efforts of one courageous man. It is such +applied Christianity that has made us respect the missionary +and admire his work.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">- 212 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">CHINESE NEW YEAR AT YUNG-CHANG</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> last half of the expedition began January 18 +when we left Ta-li Fu with a caravan of thirty miles for +Yung-chang, eight days' travel to the south. The <i>mafus</i> +although they had promised faithfully to come "at daylight" +did not arrive until nearly noon and in consequence +it was necessary to camp at Hsia-kuan at the +foot of the lake.</p> + +<p>We improved our time there in hunting about for +skins and finally purchased two fine leopards and a tiger. +The latter had been brought from the Tonking frontier. +There were a number of Tibetans wandering about the +market place and in the morning a caravan of at least +two hundred horses followed by twenty or thirty Tibetans, +passed into the city while it was yet gray dawn. +They were bringing tea from P'u-erh and S'su-mao in +the south of the province and although they had already +been nearly a month upon their journey there was still +many long weeks of travel before them ere they reached +the wind-blown steppes of their native land.</p> + +<p>The trip to Yung-chang proved uninteresting and uneventful. +We crossed a succession of dry, thinly forested +mountains from 7,000 to 8,000 feet high which near their +summits were often clothed with a thick growth of rhododendron +trees. The beautiful red flowers flashed like +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">- 213 -</span> +fire balls among the green leaves, peach trees were in +full blossom and in some spots the dry hills seemed +about to break forth in the full glory of their spring +verdure. We crossed the Mekong near a village called +Shia-chai on a picturesque chain suspension bridge of a +type which is not unusual in the southern and western +part of the province. Several heavy iron chains are +firmly fastened to huge rock piers on opposite sides of +the river and the roadway formed by planks laid upon +them. Although the bridge shakes and swings in a +rather alarming manner when a caravan is crossing, it +is perfectly safe if not too heavily loaded.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of January 21, we rode down the +mountain to the great Yung-chang plain, and for two +hours trotted over a hard dirt road. The plain is +eighteen miles long by six miles wide and except for its +scattered villages, is almost entirely devoted to paddy +fields. The city itself includes about five thousand +houses. It is exceedingly picturesque and is remarkable +for its long, straight, and fairly clean streets which contrast +strongly with those of the usual Chinese town. At +the west, but still within the city walls, is a picturesque +wooded hill occupied almost exclusively by temples.</p> + +<p>We ourselves camped between two ponds in the courtyard +of a large and exceptionally clean temple just outside +the south gate of the city. It was the Chinese New +Year and Wu told us that for several days at least it +would be impossible to obtain another caravan or expect +the natives to do any work whatever. It was a very +pleasant place in which to stay although we chafed at the +enforced delay, but we made good use of our time in +photographing and developing motion picture film, collecting +birds and making various excursions.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">- 214 -</span></p> + +<p>Chinese New Year is always interesting to a foreigner +and at Yung-chang we saw many of the customs attending +its celebration. It is a time of feasting and merry +making and no native, if he can possibly avoid it, will +work on that day. Chinese families almost always live +under one roof but should any male member be absent at +this season the circumstances must be exceptional to prevent +him from returning to his home.</p> + +<p>It is customary, too, for brides to revisit their mother's +house at New Year's. On our way to Yung-chang and +for several days after leaving the city, we were continually +passing young women mounted on mules or horses +and accompanied by servants returning to their homes. +New clothes are a leading feature of this season and the +dresses of the brides and young matrons were usually +of the most unexpected hues for, according to our conception +of color, the Chinese can scarcely be counted conspicuous +for their good taste. Purple and blue, orange +and red, pink and lavender clash distressingly, but are +worn with inordinate pride.</p> + +<p>These visits are not an unalloyed pleasure to the +bride's family. Dr. Smith says in "Chinese Characteristics":</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>When she goes to her mother's home, she goes on a strictly +business basis. She takes with her it may be a quantity of +sewing for her husband's family, which the wife's family must +help her get through with. She is accompanied on each of +these visits by as many of her children as possible, both to +have her take care of them and to have them out of the way +when she is not at hand to look after them, and most especially +to have them fed at the expense of the family of the +maternal grandmother for as long a time as possible. In +regions where visits of this sort are frequent, and where there +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">- 215 -</span> +are many daughters in a family, their constant raids on the +old home are a source of perpetual terror to the whole family, +and a serious tax on the common resources.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> "Chinese Characteristics," by Arthur H. Smith, p. 200.</p> + +</div> + +<p>Religious rites and ceremonies form a conspicuous +part in the New Year's celebration. At this time the +"Kitchen God," according to current superstition, returns +to heaven to render an account of the household's +behavior. The wily Chinese, however, first rubs the +lips of the departing deity with candy in order to +"sweeten" his report of any evil which he may have witnessed +during the year.</p> + +<p>Usually all the members of the family gather before +the ancestral tablets, or should these be lacking as +among many of the laboring classes, a scroll with a part +of the genealogy is displayed and the spirits of the departed +are appeased and honored by the burning of incense +and the mumbling of incantations. While strict +attention is paid to the religious observance to the dead, +at New Year's the most punctilious ceremony is rendered +to the living.</p> + +<p>After the family have paid their respects to one another +the younger male members go from house to +house "kowtowing" to the elders who are there to receive +them. The following days are devoted to visits +to relatives living in the neighboring towns and villages, +and this continues, an endless routine, until fourteen +days later the Feast of the Lanterns puts an end +to the "epoch of national leisure."</p> + +<p>The Chinese are inveterate gamblers and at New +Year's they turn feverishly to this form of amusement +which is almost their only one. But they also have to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">- 216 -</span> +think seriously about paying their debts for it is absolutely +necessary for all classes and conditions of men to +meet their obligations at the end of the year.</p> + +<p>Almost everyone owes money in China. According +to the clan system an individual having surplus cash +is obliged to lend it (though at a high rate of interest) +to any members of his family in need of help. However, +a Chinaman never pays cash unless absolutely +obliged to and almost never settles a debt until he has +been dunned repeatedly.</p> + +<p>The activity displayed at New Year's is ludicrous.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Each separate individual [says Dr. Smith] is engaged in +the task of trying to chase down the men who owe money to him, +and compel them to pay up, and at the same time in trying to +avoid the persons who are struggling to track him down and +corkscrew from him the amount of his indebtedness to them! +The dodges and subterfuges to which each is obliged to resort, +increase in complexity and number with the advance of the season, +until at the close of the month, the national activity is +at fever heat. For if a debt is not secured then, it will go +over till a new year, and no one knows what will be the status +of a claim which has actually contrived to cheat the annual +Day of Judgment. In spite of the excellent Chinese habit of +making the close of a year a grand clearing-house for all debts, +Chinese human nature is too much for Chinese custom, and +there are many of these postponed debts which are a grief +of mind to many a Chinese creditor.</p> + +<p>The Chinese are at once the most practical and the most +sentimental of the human race. New Year mist not be violated +by duns for debts, and the debts must be collected New +Year though it be. For this reason one sometimes sees an urgent +creditor going about early on the first day of the year +carrying a lantern looking for his creditor [= debtor]. His +artificial light shows that by a social fiction the sun has not yet +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">- 217 -</span> +risen, it is still yesterday and the debt can still be claimed. . . .</p> + +<p>We have but to imagine the application of the principles +which we have named, to the whole Chinese Empire, and we +get new light upon the nature of the Chinese New Year festivities. +They are a time of rejoicing, but there is no rejoicing +so keen as that of a ruined debtor, who has succeeded by shrewd +devices in avoiding the most relentless of his creditors and +has thus postponed his ruin for at least another twelve months.</p> + +<p>For, once past the narrow strait at the end of the year, +the debtor finds himself again in the broad and peaceful waters, +where he cannot be molested. Even should his creditors +meet him on New Year's day, there could be no possibility +of mentioning the fact of the previous day's disgraceful flight +and concealment, or indeed of alluding to business at all, for +this would not be "good form" and to the Chinese "Good Form" +(otherwise known as custom), is the chief national divinity.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> "Village Life in China," by Arthur H. Smith, 1907, +pp. 208-209.</p> + +</div> + +<p>Yung-chang appears to be almost entirely inhabited +by Chinese and in no part of the province did we see +foot-binding more in evidence. Practically every +woman and girl, young or old, regardless of her station +in life was crippled in this brutal way. The women +wear long full coats with flaring skirts which hang +straight from their shoulders to their knees. When the +trousers are tightly wrapped about their shrunken ankles, +they look in a side view exactly like huge umbrellas.</p> + +<p>One day we visited a cave thirty <i>li</i> north of the city +where we hoped to find new bats. A beautiful little +temple has been built over the entrance to the cavern +which does not extend more than forty or fifty feet into +the rock. But twenty <i>li</i> south of Yung-chang, just beyond +the village of A-shih-wo, there is an enormous cave +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">- 218 -</span> +which is reported to extend entirely through the hill. +Whether or not this is true we can not say for although +we explored it in part we did not reach the end. The +central corridor is about thirty feet wide and at least +sixty or seventy high. We followed the main gallery +for a long distance, and turned back at a branch which +led off at a sharp angle. We were not equipped with +sufficient candles to pursue the exploration more extensively +and did not have time to visit it again. The +cave contained some beautiful stalactites of considerable +size, but the limestone was a dull lead color. We +found only one bat and these animals appear not to +have used it extensively since there was little sign upon +the floor.</p> + +<p>At Yung-chang we saw water buffaloes for the first +time in Yün-nan but found them to be in universal use +farther to the south and west. The huge brutes are as +docile as a kitten in the hands of the smallest native child +but they do not like foreigners and discretion is the better +part of valor where they are concerned.</p> + +<p>Water buffaloes are only employed for work in the +rice fields but Chinese cows are used as burden bearers +in this part of the province. Such caravans travel +much more slowly than do mule trains although the animals +are not loaded as heavily. Two or three of the +leading cows usually carry upon their backs large bells +hung in wooden frameworks and the music is by no +means unmelodious when heard at a distance. Marco +Polo, the great Venetian traveler, refers to Yung-chang +as "Vochang." His account of a battle which +was fought in its vicinity in the year 1272 between the +King of Burma and Bengal and one of Kublai Khan's +generals is so interesting that I am quoting it below:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">- 219 -</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>When the king of Mien [Burma] and Bangala [Bengal], +in India, who was powerful in the number of his subjects, in +extent of territory, and in wealth, heard that an army of Tartars +had arrived at Vochang [Yung-chang] he took the resolution +of advancing immediately to attack it, in order that by +its destruction the grand khan should be deterred from again +attempting to station a force upon the borders of his dominions. +For this purpose he assembled a very large army, including +a multitude of elephants (an animal with which his +country abounds), upon whose backs were placed battlements +or castles, of wood, capable of containing to the number of +twelve or sixteen in each. With these, and a numerous army +of horse and foot, he took the road to Vochang, where the grand +khan's army lay, and encamping at no great distance from it, +intended to give his troops a few days of rest.</p> + +<p>As soon as the approach of the king of Mien, with so great +a force, was known to Nestardin, who commanded the troops of +the grand khan, although a brave and able officer, he felt much +alarmed, not having under his orders more than twelve thousand +men (veterans, indeed, and valiant soldiers); whereas the +enemy had sixty thousand, besides the elephants armed as has +been described. He did not, however, betray any sign of apprehension, +but descending into the plain of Vochang, took a +position in which his flank was covered by a thick wood of large +trees, whither, in case of a furious charge by the elephants, +which his troops might not be able to sustain, they could retire, +and from thence, in security, annoy them with their arrows....</p> + +<p>Upon the king of Mien's learning that the Tartars had descended +into the plain, he immediately put his army in motion, +took up his ground at the distance of about a mile from the +enemy, and made a disposition of his force, placing the elephants +in the front, and the cavalry and infantry, in two extended +wings, in their rear, but leaving between them a considerable +interval. Here he took his own station, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">- 220 -</span> +proceeded to animate his men and encourage them to fight valiantly, +assuring them of victory, as well from the superiority +of their numbers, being four to one, as from their formidable +body of armed elephants, whose shock the enemy, who had +never before been engaged with such combatants, could by +no means resist. Then giving orders for sounding a prodigious +number of warlike instruments, he advanced boldly with his +whole army towards that of the Tartars, which remained firm, +making no movement, but suffering them to approach their +entrenchments.</p> + +<p>They then rushed out with great spirit and the utmost eagerness +to engage; but it was soon found that the Tartar horses, +unused to the sight of such huge animals, with their castles, +were terrified, and by wheeling about endeavored to fly; nor +could their riders by any exertions restrain them, whilst the +king, with the whole of his forces, was every moment gaining +ground. As soon as the prudent commander perceived this +unexpected disorder, without losing his presence of mind, he +instantly adopted the measure of ordering his men to dismount +and their horses to be taken into the wood, where they +were fastened to the trees.</p> + +<p>When dismounted, the men without loss of time, advanced +on foot towards the line of elephants, and commenced a brisk +discharge of arrows; whilst, on the other side, those who were +stationed in the castles, and the rest of the king's army, shot +volleys in return with great activity; but their arrows did not +make the same impression as those of the Tartars, whose bows +were drawn with a stronger arm. So incessant were the discharges +of the latter, and all their weapons (according to the +instructions of their commander) being directed against the +elephants, these were soon covered with arrows, and, suddenly +giving way, fell back upon their own people in the rear, who +were thereby thrown into confusion. It soon became impossible +for their drivers to manage them, either by force or address. +Smarting under the pain of their wounds, and terrified +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">- 221 -</span> +by the shouting of the assailants, they were no longer governable, +but without guidance or control ran about in all directions, +until at length, impelled by rage and fear, they rushed +into a part of the wood not occupied by the Tartars. The +consequence of this was, that from the closeness of the branches +of large trees, they broke, with loud crashes, the battlements +or castles that were upon their backs, and involved in the destruction +those who sat upon them.</p> + +<p>Upon seeing the rout of the elephants the Tartars acquired +fresh courage, and filing off by detachments, with perfect order +and regularity, they remounted their horses, and joined +their several divisions, when a sanguinary and dreadful combat +was renewed. On the part of the king's troops there was no +want of valor, and he himself went amongst the ranks entreating +them to stand firm, and not to be alarmed by the accident +that had befallen the elephants. But the Tartars by their +consummate skill in archery, were too powerful for them, and +galled them the more exceedingly, from their not being provided +with such armor as was worn by the former.</p> + +<p>The arrows having been expended on both sides, the men +grasped their swords and iron maces, and violently encountered +each other. Then in an instant were to be seen many +horrible wounds, limbs dismembered, and multitudes falling to +the ground, maimed and dying; with such effusion of blood as +was dreadful to behold. So great also was the clangor of +arms, and such the shoutings and the shrieks, that the noise +seemed to ascend to the skies. The king of Mien, acting as became +a valiant chief, was present wherever the greatest danger +appeared, animating his soldiers, and beseeching them to maintain +their ground with resolution. He ordered fresh squadrons +from the reserve to advance to the support of those that +were exhausted; but perceiving at length that it was impossible +any longer to sustain the conflict or to withstand the +impetuosity of the Tartars, the greater part of his troops +being either killed or wounded, and all the field covered with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">- 222 -</span> +the carcasses of men and horses, whilst those who survived were +beginning to give way, he also found himself compelled to take +to flight with the wreck of his army, numbers of whom were +afterwards slain in the pursuit....</p> + +<p>The Tartars having collected their force after the slaughter +of the enemy, returned towards the wood into which the elephants +had fled for shelter, in order to take possession of them, +where they found that the men who had escaped from the overthrow +were employed in cutting down trees and barricading +the passages, with the intent of defending themselves. But +their ramparts were soon demolished by the Tartars, who +slew many of them, and with the assistance of the persons accustomed +to the management of the elephants, they possessed +themselves of these to the number of two hundred or more. +From the period of this battle the grand khan has always +chosen to employ elephants in his armies, which before that +time he had not done. The consequences of the victory were, +that he acquired possession of the whole of the territories of +the king of Bangala and Mien, and annexed them to his dominions.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> "The Travels of Marco Polo the Venetian." Everyman's +Library. J. M. Dent & Sons, Ltd., London; pp. 255-256.</p> + +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">- 223 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">TRAVELING TOWARD THE TROPICS</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Yung-chang with no regret on Monday, +January 28. Our stay there would have been exceedingly +pleasant under ordinary conditions but it was impossible +not to chafe at the delay occasioned by the +caravan. Traveling southward for two days over bare +brown mountain-sides, their monotony unrelieved except +by groves of planted pine and fir trees, we descended +abruptly into the great subtropical valley at +Shih-tien.</p> + +<p>Mile after mile this fertile plain stretches away in +a succession of rice paddys and fields of sugar cane +interspersed with patches of graceful bamboo, their summits +drooping like enormous clusters of ostrich plumes; +the air is warm and fragrant and the change from the +surrounding hills is delightful. However, we were disappointed +in the shooting for, although it appeared to +be an ideal place for ducks and other water birds, we +killed only five teal, and the great ponds were almost +devoid of bird life. Even herons, so abundant in the +north, were conspicuous by their absence and we saw +no sheldrakes, geese, or mallards.</p> + +<p>At Shih-tien we camped in a beautiful temple yard +on the outskirts of the town, and with Wu I returned +to the village to inquire about shooting places. We +seated ourselves in the first open tea house and within +ten minutes more than a hundred natives had filled the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">- 224 -</span> +room, overflowed through the door and windows, and +formed a mass of pushing, crowding bodies which completely +blocked the street outside. It was a simple way +of getting all the village together and Wu questioned +everyone who looked intelligent.</p> + +<p>We learned that shooting was to be found near Gen-kang, +five days' travel south, and we returned to the temple +just in time to receive a visit from the resident mandarin. +He was a good-looking, intellectual man, with +charming manners and one of the most delightful gentlemen +whom we met in China.</p> + +<p>During his visit, and until dinner was over and we +had retired to our tents, hundreds of men, women and +children crowded into the temple yard to gaze curiously +at us. After the gates had been closed they climbed +the walls and sat upon the tiles like a flock of crows. +Their curiosity was insatiable but not unfriendly and +nowhere throughout our expedition did we find such +extraordinary interest in our affairs as was manifested +by the people in this immediate region. They were +largely Chinese and most of them must have met foreigners +before, yet their curiosity was much greater than +that of any natives whom we knew were seeing white +persons for the first time.</p> + +<p>Just before camping the next day we passed through +a large village where we were given a most flattering +reception. We had stopped to do some shooting and +were a considerable distance behind the caravan. The +<i>mafus</i> must have announced our coming, for the populace +was out <i>en masse</i> to greet us and lined the streets +three deep. It was a veritable triumphal entry and +crowds of men and children followed us for half a +mile outside the town, running beside our horses and +staring with saucer-like eyes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f224a" style="width: 286px;"> + <img src="images/img_f224a.png" width="286" height="364" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Patriarch</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f224b" style="width: 285px;"> + <img src="images/img_f224b.png" width="285" height="355" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Young China</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">- 225 -</span></p> + +<p>On the second day from Shih-tien we climbed a high +mountain and wound down a sharp descent for about +4,000 feet into a valley only 2,800 feet above sea level. +We had been cold all day on the ridges exposed to a +biting wind and had bundled ourselves into sweaters and +coats over flannel shirts. After going down about 1,000 +feet we tied our coats to the saddle pockets, on the +second thousand stripped off the sweaters, and for the +remainder of the descent rode with sleeves rolled up +and shirts open at the throat. We had come from mid-winter +into summer in two hours and the change was +most startling. It was as though we had suddenly +ridden into an artificially heated building like the rooms +for tropical plants at botanical gardens.</p> + +<p>Our camp was on a flat plain just above the river +where we had a splendid view of the wide valley which +was like the bottom of a well with high mountains rising +abruptly on all sides. It was a place of strange contrasts. +The bushes and trees were in full green foliage +but the grass and paddy fields were dry and brown as +in mid-winter. The thick trees at the base of the hills +were literally alive with doves but there were few mammal +runways and our traps yielded no results. That +night a muntjac, the first we had heard, barked hoarsely +behind the tents.</p> + +<p>The <i>yamen</i> "soldier" who accompanied us from Shih-tien +delivered his official dispatch at the village (Ma-po-lo) +which lies farther down the valley. The magistrate, +who proved to be a Shan native, arrived soon +after with ten or twelve men and we discovered that +there was but one man in the village who spoke Chinese.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">- 226 -</span></p> + +<p>The magistrate at Ma-po-lo by no means wished to +have the responsibility of our safety thrust upon him +and consequently assured us that there were neither +game nor hunters in this village. Although his anxiety +to be rid of us was apparent, he was probably telling +the truth, for the valley is so highly cultivated (rice), +and the cover on the mountain-sides so limited, that it +is doubtful if much game remains.</p> + +<p>In the morning the entire valley was filled with a +dense white fog but we climbed out of it almost immediately, +and by noon were back again in winter on +the summits of the ridges. The country through which +we passed <i>en route</i> to Gen-kang was similar to that +which had oppressed us during the preceding week—cultivated +valleys between high barren mountains relieved +here and there by scattered groves of planted fir +trees. It was a region utterly hopeless from a naturalist's +standpoint and when we arrived at a large +town near Gen-kang we were well-nigh discouraged.</p> + +<p>During almost a month of travel we had been guided +by native information which without exception had +proved worthless. It seemed useless to rely upon it further, +and yet there was no other alternative, for none +of the foreigners whom we had met in Yün-nan knew +anything about this part of the province. We were certain +to reach a tropical region farther south and the +fact that there were a few sambur skins for sale in the +market offered slight encouragement. These were said +to come from a village called Meng-ting, "a little more +far," to the tune of four or five days' travel, over on +the Burma frontier.</p> + +<p>With gloom in our hearts, which matched that of +the weather, we left in a pouring rain on February 6, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">- 227 -</span> +to slip and splash southward through veritable rivers of +mud for two long marches. In the afternoon of the +second day the country suddenly changed. The trail +led through a wide grassy valley, bordered by heavily +forested hills, into a deep ravine. Along the banks of +a clear stream the earth was soft and damp and the moss-covered +logs and dense vegetation made ideal conditions +for small mammalian life.</p> + +<p>We rode happily up the ravine and stood in a rocky +gateway. At the right a green-clothed mountain rose +out of a tangle of luxuriant vegetation; to the left wave +after wave of magnificent forested ridges lost themselves +in the low hung clouds; at our feet lay a beautiful valley +filled with stately trees which spread into a thick +green canopy overhead.</p> + +<p>We camped in a clearing just at the edge of the +forest. While the tents were being pitched, I set a +line of traps along the base of the opposite mountain +and found a "runway" under almost every log. About +eight o'clock I ran my traps and, with the aid of a +lantern, stumbled about in the bushes and high grass, +over logs and into holes. When I emptied my pockets +there were fifteen mice, rats, shrews, and voles, representing +seven species and <i>all new to our collection</i>. Heller +brought in eight specimens and added two new species. +We forthwith decided to stay right where we were +until this "gold mine" had been exhausted.</p> + +<p>In the morning our traps were full of mammals and +sixty-two were laid out on the table ready for skinning. +The length, tail, hind foot, and ear of each specimen was +first carefully measured in millimeters and recorded in +the field catalogue and upon a printed label bearing our +serial number; then an incision was made in the belly, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">- 228 -</span> +the skin stripped off, poisoned with arsenic, stuffed with +cotton, and sewed up. The animal was then pinned in +position by the feet, nose, and tail in a shallow wooden +tray which fitted in the collecting trunk.</p> + +<p>The specimens were put in the sun on every bright +day until they were thoroughly dry and could be +wrapped in cotton and packed in water-tight trunks or +boxes. We have found that the regulation U. S. Army +officer's fiber trunk makes an ideal collecting case. It +measures thirty inches long by thirteen deep and sixteen +inches wide and will remain quite dry in an ordinary +rain but, of course, must not be allowed to stand in +water. The skulls of all specimens, and the skeletons +of some, are numbered like the skin, strung upon a wire, +and dried in the sun. Also individuals of every species +are injected and preserved in formalin for future anatomical +study.</p> + +<p>Larger specimens are always salted and dried. As +soon as the skin has been removed and cleaned of flesh +and fat, salt is rubbed into every part of it and the hide +rolled up. In the morning it is unwrapped, the water +which has been extracted by the salt poured off, and +the skin hung over a rope or a tree branch to dry. If +it is not too hot and the air is dry, the skin may be kept +in the shade to good advantage, but under ordinary field +conditions it should be placed in the sun. Before it becomes +too hard, the hide is rolled or folded into a +convenient package hair side in, tied into shape and allowed +to become "bone dry." In this condition it will +keep indefinitely but requires constant watching, for the +salt absorbs moisture from the air and alternate wetting +and drying is fatal.</p> + +<p>We soon trained two of our Chinese boys to skin +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">- 229 -</span> +both large and small animals and they became +quite expert. They required constant watching, however, +and after each hide had been salted either Mr. Heller or +I examined it to make sure that it was properly treated.</p> + +<p>On our first day in camp we sent for natives to the +village of Mu-cheng ten <i>li</i> distant. The men assured +us that there were sambur, serow, and muntjac in the +neighborhood, and they agreed to hunt. They had no +dogs and were armed with crossbows, antiquated guns, +and bows and arrows, but they showed us the skins of +two sambur in proof of their ability to secure game.</p> + +<p>Like most of the other natives, with the exception +of the Mosos on the Snow Mountain, these men had +no definite plan in hunting. The first day I went out +with them they indicated that we were to drive a hill +not far from camp. Without giving me an opportunity +to reach a position in front of them, they began to +work up the hill, and I had a fleeting glimpse of a +sambur silhouetted against the sky as it dashed over the +summit.</p> + +<p>Two days later while I was out with ten other men +who had a fairly good pack of dogs, the first party succeeded +in killing a female sambur. The animal weighed +at least five hundred pounds but they brought it to our +camp and we purchased the skin for ten <i>rupees</i>. South +of Gen-kang the money of the region, like all of Yün-nan +for some distance from the Burma frontier, is the +Indian <i>rupee</i> which equals thirty-three cents American +gold in that part of the province adjoining Tonking, +French Indo-China money is current.</p> + +<p>My Journal of February 8 tells of our life at this +camp, which we called "Good Hope."</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">- 230 -</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>The weather is delightful for the sun is just warm enough +for comfort and the nights are clear and cold. How we do +sleep! It seems hardly an hour from the time we go to bed +until we hear Wu rousing the servants, and the crackle of the +camp-fire outside the tent. We half dress in our sleeping bags +and with chattering teeth dash for the fire to lace our high +boots in its comfortable warmth.</p> + +<p>After breakfast when it is full daylight, my wife and I +inspect the traps. The ground is white with frost and the +trees and bushes are dressed in silver. Every trap holds an +individual interest and we follow the line through the forest, +resetting some, and finding new mammals in others. Yvette +has conquered her feminine repugnance far enough to remove +shrews or mice from the traps by releasing the spring and +dropping them on to a broad green leaf, but she never touches +them.</p> + +<p>We go back to meet the hunters and while I am away with +the men, the lady of the camp works at her photography. I +return in the late afternoon and after tea we wander through +the woods together. It is the most delightful part of the day +when the sun goes down and the shadows lengthen. We sit on +a log in a small clearing where we can watch the upper +branches of a splendid tree. It is the home of a great colony of +red-bellied squirrels (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i> subsp.) and +after a few moments of silence we see a flash of brown along +a branch, my gun roars out, and there is a thud upon the +ground.</p> + +<p>Yvette runs to find the animal and ere the echoes have died +away in the forest the gun bangs again. We have already +shot a dozen squirrels from this tree and yet more are there. +Sometimes a tiny, striped chipmunk (<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i> +subsp.) will appear on the lower branches, searching the bark +for grubs, and after he falls we have a long hunt to find him in +the brown leaves. When it is too dark to see the squirrels, we +wander slowly back to camp and eat a dinner of delicious +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">- 231 -</span> +broiled deer steak in front of the fire; over the coffee we smoke +and talk of the day's hunting until it is time to "run the traps."</p> + +<p>Of all the work we enjoy this most. With lanterns and a +gun we pick our way among the trees until we strike the trail +along which the traps are set. On the soft ground our feet +are noiseless and, extinguishing the lanterns, we sit on a log +to listen to the night sounds. The woods are full of life. Almost +beside us there is a patter of tiny feet and a scurry among +the dry leaves; a muntjac barks hoarsely on the opposite +hillside, and a fox yelps behind us in the forest. Suddenly +there is a sharp snap, a muffled squeal, and a trap a few yards +away has done its work. Even in the tree tops the night life +is active. Dead twigs drop to the ground with an unnatural +noise, and soft-winged owls show black against the sky as they +flit across an opening in the branches.</p> + +<p>We light the lanterns again and pass down the trail into +a cuplike hollow. Here there are a dozen traps and already +half of them are full. In one is a tiny brown shrew caught by +the tail as he ran across the trap; another holds a veritable +treasure, and at my exclamation of delight Yvette runs up excitedly. +It is a rare Insectivore of the genus <i>Hylomys</i> and +possibly a species new to science. We examine it beside the +lantern, wrap it carefully in paper, and drop it into a pocket +by itself.</p> + +<p>The next bit of cotton clings to a bush above a mossy log. +The trap is gone and for ten minutes we hunt carefully over +every inch of ground. Finally my wife discovers it fifteen feet +away and stifles a scream for in it, caught by the neck and still +alive, is a huge rat nearly two feet long; it too is a species +which may prove new.</p> + +<p>When the last trap has been examined, we follow the trail +to the edge of the forest and into the clearing where the tents +glow in the darkness like great yellow pumpkins. Ours is +delightfully warmed by the charcoal brazier and, stretched comfortably +on the beds, we write our daily records or read Dickens +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">- 232 -</span> +for half an hour. It is with a feeling of great contentment +that we slip down into the sleeping bags and blow out the +candles leaving the tent filled with the soft glow of the moonlight.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">- 233 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">MENG-TING: A VILLAGE OF MANY TONGUES</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the eight days in which we remained at the +"Good Hope" camp, two hundred specimens comprising +twenty-one species were added to our collection. Although +the altitude was still 5,000 feet, the flora was +quite unlike that of any region in which we had previously +collected, and that undoubtedly was responsible +for the complete change of fauna. We were on the very +edge of the tropical belt which stretches along the Tonking +and Burma frontiers in the extreme south and west +of the province.</p> + +<p>It was already mid-February and if we were to work +in the fever-stricken valleys below 2,000 feet, it was high +time we were on the way southward. The information +which we had obtained near Gen-kang had been supplemented +by the natives of Mu-cheng, and we decided to +go to Meng-ting as soon as possible.</p> + +<p>The first march was long and uneventful but at its +end, from the summit of a high ridge, we could see a +wide valley which we reached in the early morning of +the second day. The narrow mountain trail abruptly +left us on a jutting promontory and wandered uncertainly +down a steep ravine to lose itself in a veritable +forest of tree ferns and sword grass. The slanting rays +of the sun drew long golden paths into the mysterious +depths of the mist-filled valley. To the right a giant +sentinel peak of granite rose gaunt and naked from out +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">- 234 -</span> +the enveloping sea of green which swelled away to the +left in huge ascending billows.</p> + +<p>We rested in our saddles until the faint tinkle of +the bell on the leading mule announced the approach +of the caravan and then we picked our way slowly down +the steep trail between walls of tangled vegetation. +In an hour we were breathing the moist warm air of +the tropics and riding across a wide valley as level as a +floor. The long stretches of rank grass, far higher than +our heads, were broken by groves of feathery bamboos, +banana palms, and splendid trees interlaced with tangled +vines.</p> + +<p>Near the base of the mountains a Shan village nestled +into the grass. The bamboo houses, sheltered by trees +and bushes, were roofed in the shape of an overturned +boat with thatch and the single street was wide and +clean. Could this really be China? Verily, it was a +different China from that we had seen before! It +might be Burma, India, Java, but never China!</p> + +<p>Before the door of a tiny house sat a woman spinning. +A real Priscilla, somewhat strange in dress to +be sure and with a mouth streaked with betel nut, but +Priscilla just the same. And in his proper place beside +her stood John Alden. A pair of loose, baggy trousers, +hitched far up over one leg to show the intricate +tattoo designs beneath, a short coat, and a white turban +completed John's attire, but he grasped a gun almost +as ancient in design as that of his Pilgrim fathers. Priscilla +kept her eyes upon the spinning wheel, but John's +gaze could by no stretch of imagination be called ardent +even before we appeared around a corner of the house +and the pretty picture resolved into its rightful components—a +surprised, but not unlovely Shan girl and +a well-built, yellow-skinned native who stared with wide +brown eyes And open mouth at what must have seemed +to him the fancy of a disordered brain.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f234a" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f234a.png" width="366" height="284" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Village</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f234b" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f234b.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Woman Spinning</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">- 235 -</span></p> + +<p>For into his village, filled with immemorial peace and +quiet, where every day was exactly like the day before, +had suddenly ridden two big men with white skins and +blue eyes, and a little one with lots of hair beneath a +broad sun helmet. And almost immediately the little one +had jumped from the horse and pointed a black box with +a shiny front at him and his Priscilla. At once, but +without loss of dignity, Priscilla vanished into the house, +but John Alden stood his ground, for a beautiful new +tin can had been thrust into his hand and before he had +really discovered what it was the little person had smiled +at him and turned her attention to the charming street +of his village. There the great water buffaloes lazily +chewed their cuds standing guard over the tiny brown-skinned +natives who played trustingly with the calves +almost beneath their feet.</p> + +<p>Such was our invasion of the first Shan village we had +ever seen, and regretfully we rode away across the plain +between the walls of waving grass toward the Nam-ting +River. Two canoes, each dug out of a single log, and +tightly bound together, formed the ferry, but the packs +were soon across the muddy stream and the mules were +made to swim to the other bank. Shortly after leaving +the ferry we emerged from the vast stretches of rank +grass on to the open rice paddys which stretched away in +a gently undulating plain from the river to the mountains. +Strangely enough we saw no ducks or geese, but +three great flocks of cranes (probably <i>Grus communis</i>) +rose from the fields and wheeled in ever-widening spirals +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">- 236 -</span> +above our heads until they were lost in the blue depths +of the sky.</p> + +<p>Away in the distance we saw a wooded knoll with a +few wisps of smoke curling above its summit, but not +until we were well-nigh there did we realize that its beautiful +trees sheltered the thatched roofs of Meng-ting. +But this was only the "'residential section" of the village +and below the knoll on the opposite side of a shallow +stream lay the shops and markets.</p> + +<p>We camped on a dry rice dyke where a fringe of +jungle separated us from the nearest house. As soon +as the tents were up I announced our coming to the +mandarin and requested an interview at five o'clock. +Wu and I found the <i>yamen</i> to be a large well-built +house, delightfully cool and exhibiting several foreign +articles which evinced its proximity to Burma.</p> + +<p>We were received by a suave Chinese "secretary" who +shortly introduced the mandarin—a young Shan not +more than twenty years old who only recently had succeeded +his late father as chief of the village. The boy +was dressed in an exceedingly long frock coat, rather +green and frayed about the elbows, which in combination +with his otherwise typical native dress gave him a +most extraordinary appearance.</p> + +<p>We soon discovered that the Chinese secretary who +did all the talking was the "power behind the throne." +He accepted my gift of a package of tea with great +pleasure, but the information about hunting localities +for which we asked was not forthcoming. He first said +that he knew of a place where there were tiger and +leopard, but that he did not dare to reveal it to us for +we might be killed by the wild animals and he would be +responsible for our deaths; bringing to his attention the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">- 237 -</span> +fact that tigers had never been recorded from the Meng-ting +region did not impress him in the slightest.</p> + +<p>It did tend to send him off on another track, however, +and he next remarked that if he sent us to a place +where the hunting was disappointing we probably would +report him to the district mandarin. Assurances to the +contrary had no effect. It was perfectly evident that he +wished only to get us out of his district and thus relieve +himself of the responsibility of our safety. During the +conversation, which lasted more than an hour, the young +Shan was not consulted and did not speak a word; he +sat stolidly in his chair, hardly winking, and except for +the constant supply of cigarettes which passed between +his fingers there was no evidence that he even breathed.</p> + +<p>The interview closed with assurances from the Chinaman +that he would make inquiries concerning hunting +grounds and communicate with us in the morning. We +returned to camp and half an hour later a party of natives +arrived from the <i>yamen</i> bearing about one hundred +pounds of rice, a sack of potatoes, two dozen eggs, three +chickens, and a great bundle of fire wood. These were +deposited in front of our tent as gifts from the mandarin.</p> + +<p>We were at a loss to account for such generosity until +Wu explained that whenever a high official visited a +village it was customary for the mandarin to supply his +entire party with food during their stay. It would be +quite polite to send back all except a few articles, however, +for the supplies were levied from the inhabitants +of the town. We kept the eggs and chickens, giving the +<i>yamen</i> "runners" considerably more than their value in +money, and they gratefully returned with the rice and +potatoes.</p> + +<p>On the hill high above our camp was a large Shan +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">- 238 -</span> +Buddhist monastery, bamboo walled and thatched with +straw, and at sunset and daybreak a musical chant of +childish voices floated down to us in the mist-filled valley. +All day long tiny yellow-robed figures squatted on the +mud walls about the temple like a flock of birds peering +at us with bright round eyes. They were wild as hawks, +these little priests and, although they sometimes left the +shelter of their temple walls, they never ventured below +the bushy hedge about our rice field.</p> + +<p>In the village we saw them often, wandering about +the streets or sitting in yellow groups beneath the giant +trees which threw a welcome shade over almost every +house. They were not all children, and finely built +youths or men so old that they seemed like wrinkled bits +of lemon peel, passed to and fro to the temple on the hill.</p> + +<p>There is no dearth of priests, for every family in the +village with male children is required to send at least +one boy to live a part of his life under the tutelage of +the Church. He must remain three years, and longer, if +he wishes. The priests are fed by the monastery, and +their clothing is not an important item of expenditure +as it consists merely of a straw hat and a yellow robe. +They lead a lazy, worthless life, and from their sojourn +in religious circles they learn only indolence and idleness.</p> + +<p>The day following our arrival in Meng-ting the +weekly market was held, and when Wu and I crossed +the little stream to the business part of the village, we +found ourselves in the midst of the most picturesque +crowd of natives it has ever been my fortune to see. It +was a group flashing with color, and every individual +a study for an artist. There were blue-clad Chinese, +Shans with tattooed legs, turbans of pink or white, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">- 239 -</span> +Burmans dressed in brilliant purple or green, Las, yellow-skinned +Lisos, flat-faced Palaungs, Was, and +Kachins in black and red strung about with beads or +shells. Long swords hung from the shoulders of those +who did not carry a spear or gun, and the hilts of wicked +looking daggers peeped from beneath their sashes. +Every man carried a weapon ready for instant use.</p> + +<p>Nine tribes were present in the market that day and +almost as many languages were being spoken. It was +a veritable Babel and half the trading was done by signs. +The narrow street was choked with goods of every kind +spread out upon the ground: fruit, rice, cloth, nails, +knives, swords, hats, sandals, skins, horns, baskets, mats, +crossbows, arrows, pottery, tea, opium, and scores of +other articles for food or household use.</p> + +<p>Dozens of natives were arriving and departing, bringing +new goods or packing up their purchases; under +open, thatched pavilions were silent groups of men gambling +with cash or silver, and in the "tea houses" white-faced +natives lay stretched upon the couches rolling +"pills" of opium and oblivious to the constant stream of +passers-by.</p> + +<p>It was a picturesque, ever changing group, a kaleidoscopic +mass of life and color, where Chinese from civilized +Canton drank, and gambled, and smoked with wild +natives from the hills or from the depths of fever-stricken +jungles.</p> + +<p>After one glimpse of the picture in the market I +dashed back to camp to bring the "Lady of the Camera." +On the way I met her, hot and breathless, half coaxing, +half driving three bewildered young priests resplendent +in yellow robes. All the morning she had been trying +vainly to photograph a priest and had discovered these +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">- 240 -</span> +splendid fellows when all her color plates had been exposed. +She might have succeeded in bringing them to +camp had I not arrived, but they suddenly lost courage +and rushed away with averted faces.</p> + +<p>When the plate holders were all reloaded we hurried +back to the market followed by two coolies with the +cameras. Leaving Yvette to do her work alone I set +up the cinematograph. Wu was with me and in less +than a minute the narrow space in front of us was +packed with a seething mass of natives. It was impossible +to take a "street scene" for the "street" had suddenly +disappeared. Making a virtue of necessity I focused +the camera on the irregular line of heads and swung it +back and forth registering a variety of facial expressions +which it would be hard to duplicate. For some +time it was impossible to bribe the natives to stand even +for a moment, but after one or two had conquered their +fear and been liberally rewarded, there was a rush for +places. Wu asked several of the natives who could +speak Chinese if they knew what we were doing but +they all shook their heads. None of them had ever seen +a camera or a photograph.</p> + +<p>The Kachin women were the most picturesque of all +the tribes as well as the most difficult to photograph. +Yvette was not able to get them at all, and I could do +so only by strategy. When Wu discovered two or three +squatting near their baskets on the ground I moved +slowly up behind them keeping in the center of the +crowd. After the "movie camera" was in position Wu +suddenly "shooed" back the spectators and before the +women realized what was happening they were registered +on twenty-five or thirty feet of film.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f240a" style="width: 285px;"> + <img src="images/img_f240a.png" width="285" height="355" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Kachin Woman in the Market<br /> + at Meng-ting</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f240b" style="width: 281px;"> + <img src="images/img_f240b.png" width="281" height="366" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">One of Our Shan Hunters with Two Yellow +Gibbons</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">- 241 -</span></p> + +<p>One of the Kachin men, who had drunk too much, +suddenly became belligerent when I pointed the camera +in his direction, and rushed at me with a drawn knife. +I swung for his jaw with my right fist and he went down +in a heap. He was more surprised than hurt, I imagine, +but it took all of the fight out of him for he received no +sympathy from the spectators.</p> + +<p>Poor Yvette had a difficult time with her camera +operations and a less determined person would have +given up in despair. The natives were so shy and suspicious +that it was well-nigh impossible to bribe them to +stand for a second and it was only after three hours of +aggravating work in the stifling heat and dust that she +at last succeeded in exposing all her plates. Her +patience and determination were really wonderful and +I am quite sure that I should not have obtained half her +results.</p> + +<p>The Kachin women were extraordinary looking individuals. +They were short, and strongly built, with a +mop of coarse hair cut straight all around, and thick +lips stained with betel nut. Their dress consisted of a +short black jacket and skirt reaching to the knees, and +ornamented with strings of beads and pieces of brass or +silver. This tribe forms the largest part of the population +in northern Burma and also extends into Assam. +Yün-nan is fortunate in having comparatively few of +them along its western frontier for they are an uncivilized +and quarrelsome race and frequently give the British +government considerable trouble.</p> + +<p>There were only a few Burmans in the market +although the border is hardly a dozen miles to the west, +but the girls were especially attractive. Their bright +pretty faces seemed always ready to break into a smile +and their graceful figures draped in brilliant sarongs +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">- 242 -</span> +were in delightful contrast to the other, not over-dean, +natives.</p> + +<p>The Burma girls were not chewing betel nut, which +added to their distinction. The lips of virtually every +other woman and man were stained from the red juice, +which is in universal use throughout India, the Malay +Peninsula, and the Netherlands Indies. In Yün-nan +we first noted it at the "Good Hope" camp, and the +Shans are generally addicted to the practice.</p> + +<p>The permanent population of Meng-ting is entirely +Shan, but during the winter a good many Cantonese +Chinamen come to gamble and buy opium. The drug is +smuggled across the border very easily and a lucrative +trade is carried on. It can be purchased for seventy-five +cents (Mexican) an ounce in Burma and sold for two +dollars (Mexican) an ounce in Yün-nan Fu and for ten +dollars in Shanghai.</p> + +<p>Opium is smoked publicly in all the tea houses. The +drug is cooked over an alcohol lamp and when the "pill" +is properly prepared it is placed in the tiny bowl of the +pipe, held against the flame and the smoke inhaled. The +process is a rather complicated one and during it the +natives always recline. No visible effect is produced +even after smoking several pipefuls, but the deathly +paleness and expressionless eye marks the inveterate +opium user.</p> + +<p>There can be no doubt that the Chinese government +has been, and is, genuinely anxious to suppress the use +of opium and it has succeeded to a remarkable degree. +We heard of only one instance of poppy growing in +Yün-nan and often met officials, accompanied by a +guard of soldiers, on inspection trips. Indeed, while we +were in Meng-ting the district mandarin arrived. We +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">- 243 -</span> +were sitting in our tents when the melodious notes of +deep-toned gongs floated in through the mist. They +were like the chimes of far away cathedral bells sounding +nearer and louder, but losing none of the sweetness. +Soon a long line of soldiers appeared and passed the +camp bearing in their midst a covered chair. The mandarin +established himself in a spacious temple on the +opposite side of the village, where I visited him the following +day and explained the difficulty we had had at +the Meng-ting <i>yamen</i>. He aided us so effectually that +all opposition to our plans ended and we obtained a +guide to take us to a hunting place on the Nam-ting +River, three miles from the Burma border.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">- 244 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">CAMPING ON THE NAM-TING RIVER</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Every</span> morning the valley at Meng-ting was filled +with a thick white mist and when we broke camp at daylight +each mule was swallowed up in the fog as soon as +it left the rice field. We followed the sound of the leader's +bell, but not until ten o'clock was the entire caravan +visible. For thirty U the valley is broad and flat as at +Meng-ting and filled with a luxuriant growth of rank +grass, but it narrows suddenly where the river has carved +its way through a range of hills.</p> + +<p>The trail led uncertainly along a steep bank through +a dense, tropical jungle. Palms and huge ferns, broad-leaved +bananas, and giant trees laced and interlaced with +thorny vines and hanging creepers formed a living wall +of green as impenetrable as though it were a net of steel. +We followed the trail all day, sometimes picking our +way among the rocks high above the river or padding +along in the soft earth almost at the water's edge. At +night we camped in a little clearing where some adventurous +native had fought the jungle and been defeated; +his bamboo hut was in ruins and the fields were overgrown +with a tangle of throttling vegetation.</p> + +<p>We had seen no mammals, but the birds along the road +were fascinating. Brilliant green parrots screamed in +the tree tops and tiny sun-birds dressed in garments of +red and gold and purple, flashed across the trail like living +jewels. Once we heard a strange whirr and saw a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">- 245 -</span> +huge hornbill flapping heavily over the river, every +beat of his stiff wing feathers sounding like the motor +of an aëroplane. Bamboo partridges called from the +bushes and dozens of unfamiliar bird notes filled the air.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock on the following morning we passed +two thatched huts in a little clearing beside the trail and +the guide remarked that our camping place was not far +away. We reached it shortly and were delighted. Two +enormous trees, like great umbrellas, spread a cool, dark +shade above a sparkling stream on the edge of an abandoned +rice field. From a patch of ground as level as a +floor, where our tents were pitched, we could look across +the brown rice dykes to the enclosing walls of jungle +and up to the green mountain beyond. A half mile +farther down the trail, but hidden away in the jungle, +lay a picturesque Shan village of a dozen huts, where the +guide said we should be able to find hunters.</p> + +<p>As soon as tiffin was over we went up the creek with +a bag of steel traps to set them on the tiny trails which +wound through the jungle in every direction. Selecting +a well-beaten patch we buried the trap in the center, +covered it carefully with leaves, and suspended the body +of a bird or a chunk of meat by a wire over the pan +about three feet from the ground. A light branch was +fastened to the chain as a "drag." When the trap is +pulled this invariably catches in the grass or vines and, +while holding the animal firmly, still gives enough +"spring" to prevent its freeing itself.</p> + +<p>Trapping is exceedingly interesting for it is a contest +of wits between the trapper and the animal with +the odds by no means in favor of the former. The +trap may not be covered in a natural way; the surroundings +may be unduly disturbed; a scent of human hands +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">- 246 -</span> +may linger about the bait, or there may be numberless +other possibilities to frighten the suspicious animal.</p> + +<p>In the evening our guide brought a strange individual +whom he introduced as the best hunter in the village. +He was a tall Mohammedan Chinese who dressed +like a Shan and was married to a Shan woman. He +seemed to be afflicted with mental and physical inertia, +for when he spoke it was in slow drawl hardly louder +than a whisper, and every movement of his body was correspondingly +deliberate. We immediately named him +the "Dying Rabbit" but discovered very shortly that +he really had boundless energy and was an excellent +hunter.</p> + +<p>The next morning he collected a dozen Shans for +beaters and we drove a patch of jungle above camp but +without success. There were many sambur tracks in +the clearings, but we realized at once that it was going to +be difficult to get deer because of the dense cover; the +open places were so few and small that a sambur had +every chance to break through without giving a shot.</p> + +<p>Nearly all the beaters carried guns. The "Dying +Rabbit" was armed with a .45-caliber bolt action rifle +into which he had managed to fit a .808 shell and several +of the men had Winchester carbines, model 1875. +The guns had all been brought from Burma and most +were without ammunition, but each man had an assortment +of different cartridges and used whichever he could +force into his rifle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f246a" style="width: 364px;"> + <img src="images/img_f246a.png" width="364" height="283" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp on the Nam-ting River</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f246b" style="width: 364px;"> + <img src="images/img_f246b.png" width="364" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Shan Village at Nam-ka</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">- 247 -</span></p> + +<p>The men worked splendidly under the direction of the +"Dying Rabbit." On the second day they put up a +sambur which ran within a hundred feet of us but was +absolutely invisible in the high grass. When we returned +to camp we found that a civet (<i>Viverra</i>) had +walked past our tent and begun to eat the scraps about +the cook box, regardless of the shouts of the <i>mafus</i> and +servants who were imploring Heller to bring his gun. +After considerable difficulty they persuaded him that +there really was some cause for their excitement and he +shot the animal. It was probably ill, for its flesh was +dry and yellow, but the skin was in excellent condition.</p> + +<p>Civets belong to the family <i>Viverridæ</i> and are found +only in Asia and Africa. Although they resemble cats +superficially they are not directly related to them and +their claws are only partly retractile. They are very +beautiful animals with a grayish body spotted with +black, a ringed tail, and a black and white striped +pointed head. A scent gland near the base of the tail +secretes a strong musk-like odor which, although penetrating, +is not particularly disagreeable. The animals +move about chiefly in the early morning and evening and +at night and prey upon birds, eggs, small mammals, fish, +and frogs. One which we caught and photographed had +a curious habit of raising the hair on the middle of its +back from the neck to the tail whenever it was angry or +frightened.</p> + +<p>Although there were no houses within half a mile of +camp we were surprised on our first night to hear cocks +crowing in the jungle. The note was like that of the +ordinary barnyard bird, except that it ended somewhat +more abruptly. The next morning we discovered Chanticleer +and all his harem in a deserted rice field, and he +flew toward the jungle in a flash of red and gold.</p> + +<p>I dropped him and one of his hens with a right and left +of "sixes" and found that they were jungle fowl (<i>Gallus +gallus</i>) in full plumage. The cock was a splendid bird. +The long neck feathers (hackles) spread over his back +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">- 248 -</span> +and wings like a shimmering golden mantle, but it was +hardly more beautiful than the black of his underparts +and green-glossed tail. Picture to yourself a "black-breasted +red" gamecock and you have him in all his +glory except that his tail is drooping and he is more +pheasant-like in his general bearing. The female was a +trim little bird with a lilac sheen to her brown feathers +and looked much like a well-kept game bantam hen.</p> + +<p>The jungle fowl is the direct ancestor of our barnyard +hens and roosters which were probably first domesticated +in Burma and adjacent countries long before the dawn +of authentic history. According to tradition the Chinese +received their poultry from the West about 1400 B.C. +and they are figured in Babylonian cylinders between the +sixth and seventh centuries B.C.; although they were +probably introduced in Greece through Persia there is +no direct evidence as to when and how they reached +Europe.</p> + +<p>The black-breasted jungle fowl (<i>Gallus gallus</i>) inhabit +northern India, Burma, Indo-Chinese countries, +the Malay Peninsula, and the Philippine Islands; a +related species, <i>G. lafayetti</i>, is found in Ceylon; another, +<i>G. sonnerati</i>, in southern India, and a fourth, <i>G. varius</i>, +in Java.</p> + +<p>We found the jungle fowl wild and hard to kill even +where they were seldom hunted. During the heat of the +day they remain in thick cover, but in cloudy weather +and in the early morning and evening they come out into +clearings to feed. At our camp on the Nam-ting River +we could usually put up a few birds on the edge of the +deserted rice fields which stretched up into the jungle, +but they were never far away from the edge of the +forest.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">- 249 -</span></p> + +<p>We sometimes saw single birds of either sex, but +usually a cock had with him six or eight hens. It was +interesting to watch such a flock feeding in the open. +The male, resplendent in his vivid dress, shone like a +piece of gold against the dull brown of the dry grass and +industriously ran about among his trim little hens, +rounding up the stragglers and directing his harem with +a few low-toned "clucks" whenever he found some unusually +tempting food.</p> + +<p>It was his duty, too, to watch for danger and he usually +would send the flock whirring into the jungle while +they were well beyond shotgun range. When flushed +from the open the birds nearly always would alight in +the first large tree and sit for a few moments before flying +deeper into the jungle. We caught several hens in +our steel traps, and one morning at the edge of a swamp +I shot a jungle fowl and a woodcock with a "right and +left" as they flushed together.</p> + +<p>We were at the Nam-ting camp at the beginning of +the mating season for the jungle fowl. It is said that +they brood from January to April according to locality, +laying from eight to twelve creamy white eggs under a +bamboo clump or some dense thicket where a few leaves +have been scratched together for a nest. The hen announces +the laying of an egg by means of a proud cackle, +and the chicks themselves have the characteristic "peep, +peep, peep" of the domestic birds. After the breeding +season the beautiful red and gold neck hackles of the +male sometimes are molted and replaced by short blackish +feathers.</p> + +<p>There seems to be some uncertainty as to whether the +cocks are polygamous, but our observations tend to show +that they are. We never saw more than one male in a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">- 250 -</span> +flock and in only one or two instances were the birds in +pairs. The cocks are inveterate fighters like the domestic +birds and their long curved spurs are exceedingly effective +weapons.</p> + +<p>We set a trap for a leopard on a hill behind the Nam-ting +River camp and on the second afternoon it contained +a splendid polecat. This animal is a member of +the family Mustelidæ which includes mink, otter, weasels, +skunks, and ferrets, and with its brown body, deep +yellow throat, and long tail is really very handsome. +Polecats inhabit the Northern Hemisphere and are +closely allied to the ferret which so often is domesticated +and used in hunting rats and rabbits. We found them +to be abundant in the low valleys along the Burma border +and often saw them during the day running across +a jungle path or on the lower branches of a tree. The +polecat is a blood-thirsty little beast and kills everything +that comes in its way for the pure love of killing, even +when its appetite has been satisfied.</p> + +<p>On the third morning we found two civets in the traps. +The cook told me that some animal had stolen a chicken +from one of his boxes during the night and we set a trap +only a few yards from our tent on a trail leading into +the grass. The civet was evidently the thief for the cook +boxes were not bothered again.</p> + +<p>Inspecting the traps every morning and evening was +a delightful part of our camp life. It was like opening +a Christmas package as we walked up the trails, for each +one held interesting possibilities and the mammals of +the region were so varied that surprises were always in +store for us. Besides civets and polecats, we caught +mongooses, palm civets, and other carnivores. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">- 251 -</span> +small traps yielded a new <i>Hylomys</i>, several new rats, +and an interesting shrew.</p> + +<p>We saw a few huge squirrels (<i>Ratufa gigantea</i>) and +shot one. It was thirty-six inches long, coal black above +and yellow below. The animals were very shy and as +they climbed about in the highest trees they were by no +means easy to see or shoot. They represent an interesting +group confined to India, Siam, the Malay Peninsula, +the islands of the Dutch East Indies, and Borneo.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">- 252 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">MONKEY HUNTING</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> most exciting sport at the Nam-ting camp was +hunting monkeys. Every morning we heard querulous +notes which sounded much like the squealing of very +young puppies and which were followed by long, siren +wails; when the shrill notes had reached their highest +pitch they would sink into low mellow tones exceedingly +musical.</p> + +<p>The calls usually started shortly after daylight and +continued until about nine o'clock, or later if the day was +dark or rainy. They would be answered from different +parts of the jungle and often sounded from half a dozen +places simultaneously. The natives assured us that the +cries were made by <i>hod-zu</i> (monkeys) and several times +we started in pursuit, but they always ceased long before +we had found a way through the jungle to the spot from +which they came. At last we succeeded in locating the +animals.</p> + +<p>We were inspecting a line of traps placed along a +trail which led up a valley to a wide plateau. Suddenly +the puppy-like squealing began, followed by a low +tremulous wail. It seemed almost over our heads but +the trees were empty. We stole silently along the trail +for a hundred yards and turned into a dry creek bed +which led up the bottom of the forested ravine. With +infinite caution, breathing hard from excitement, we +slipped along, scanning the top of every tree. A hornbill +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">- 253 -</span> +sitting on a dead branch caught sight of us and +flapped heavily away emitting horrid squawks. A flock +of parrots screamed overhead and a red-bellied squirrel +followed persistently scolding at the top of its voice, but +the monkeys continued to call.</p> + +<p>The querulous squealing abruptly ceased and we stood +motionless beside a tree. For an instant the countless +jungle sounds were hushed in a breathless stillness; then, +low and sweet, sounded a moaning wail which swelled +into deep full tones. It vibrated an instant, filling all +the forest with its richness, and slowly died away. Again +and again it floated over the tree tops and we listened +strangely moved, for it was like the music of an exquisite +contralto voice. At last it ceased but, ere the echoes had +reached the valley, the jungle was ringing with an unlovely +siren screech.</p> + +<p>The spell was broken and we moved on, alert and +tense. The trees stretched upward full one hundred and +fifty feet, their tops spread out in a leafy roof. Long +ropelike vines festooned the upper branches and a luxuriant +growth of parasitic vegetation clothed the giant +trunks in a swaying mass of living green. Far above +the taller trees a gaunt gray monarch of the forest +towered in splendid isolation. In its topmost branches +we could just discern a dozen balls of yellow fur from +which proceeded discordant squeals.</p> + +<p>It was long range for a shotgun but the rifles were all +in camp. I fired a charge of B.B.'s at the lowest monkey +and as the gun roared out the tree tops suddenly sprang +into life. They were filled with running, leaping, hairy +forms swinging at incredible speed from branch to +branch; not a dozen, but a score of monkeys, yellow, +brown, and gray.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">- 254 -</span></p> + +<p>The one at which I had shot seemed unaffected and +threw itself full twenty feet to a horizontal limb, below +and to the right. I fired again and he stopped, ran a +few steps forward and swung to the underside of the +branch. At the third charge he hung suspended by one +arm and dropped heavily to the ground stone dead.</p> + +<p>We tossed him into the dry creek bed and dashed up +the hill where the branches were still swaying as the +monkeys traveled through the tree tops. They had a +long start and it was a hopeless chase. At every step +our clothes were caught by the clinging thorns, our +hands were torn, and our faces scratched and bleeding. +In ten minutes they had disappeared and we turned +about to find the dead animal. Suddenly Yvette saw a +splash of leaves in the top of a tree below us and a +big brown monkey swung out on a pendent vine. I +fired instantly and the animal hung suspended, whirled +slowly around and dropped to the ground. Before I had +reloaded my gun it gathered itself together and dashed +off through the woods on three legs faster than a man +could run. The animal had been hiding on a branch +and when we passed had tried to steal away undiscovered.</p> + +<p>We found the dead monkey, a young male, in the +creek bed and sat down to examine it. It was evidently +a gibbon (<i>Hylobates</i>), for its long arms, round head, +and tailless body were unmistakable, but in every species +with which I was familiar the male was black. This one +was yellow and we knew it to be a prize. That there +were two other species in the herd was certain for we +had seen both brown and gray monkeys as they dashed +away among the trees, but the gibbons were far more +interesting than the others.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f254a" style="width: 367px;"> + <img src="images/img_f254a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Gibbon Killed on the Nam-ting River</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f254b" style="width: 368px;"> + <img src="images/img_f254b.png" width="368" height="288" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Civet</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">- 255 -</span></p> + +<p>Gibbons are probably the most primitive in skull and +teeth of all the anthropoid, or manlike, apes,—the group +which also includes the gorilla, chimpanzee, and orangutan. +They are apparently an earlier offshoot of the +anthropoid stem, as held by most authorities, and the +giant apes and man are probably a later branch. Gibbons +are essentially Oriental being found in India, +Burma, Siam, Tonking, Borneo, and the Islands of +Hainan, Sulu, Sumatra, and Java.</p> + +<p>For the remainder of our stay at the Nam-ting River +camp we devoted ourselves to hunting monkeys and +soon discovered that the three species we had first seen +were totally different. One was the yellow gibbon, another +a brown baboon (<i>Macacus</i>), and the third a huge +gray ape with a long tail (<i>Pygathrix</i>) known as the +"langur." On the first day all three species were together +feeding upon some large green beans and this +happened once again, but usually they were in separate +herds.</p> + +<p>The gibbons soon became extremely wild. Although +the same troop could usually be found in the +valley where we had first discovered them, they chose +hillsides where it was almost impossible to stalk them +because of the thorny jungle. Usually when they +called, it was from the upper branches of a dead tree +where they could not only scan every inch of the ground +below, but were almost beyond the range of a shotgun. +Sometimes we climbed upward almost on our hands +and knees, grasping vines and creepers, drawing ourselves +up by tree trunks, crawling under thorny shrubs +and bushes, slipping, falling, scrambling through the +indescribable tangle. We went forward only when the +calls were echoing through the jungle, and stood +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">- 256 -</span> +motionless as the wailing ceased. But in spite of all our +care they would see or hear us. Then in sudden silence +there would be a tremor of the branches, splash after +splash of leaves, and the herd would swing away +through the trackless tree tops.</p> + +<p>The gibbons are well named <i>Hylobates</i> or "tree-walkers" +for they are entirely arboreal and, although +awkward and almost helpless on the ground, once +their long thin hands touch a branch they become transformed +as by a miracle.</p> + +<p>They launch themselves into space, catch a limb +twenty feet away, swing for an instant, and hurl themselves +to another. It is possible for them to travel +through the trees faster than a man can run even on +open ground, and when one examines their limbs the +reason is apparent. The fore arms are so exceedingly +long that the tips of the fingers can touch the ground +when the animal stands erect, and the slender hands are +longer than the feet.</p> + +<p>The gibbons were exceedingly difficult to kill and +would never drop until stone dead. Once I shot an +old male with my 6½ mm. Mannlicher rifle at about +one hundred yards and, even though the ball had gone +clear through his body, he hung for several minutes before +he dropped into a tangle of vines.</p> + +<p>It was fifteen minutes before we were able to work +our way through the jungle to the spot where the animal +had fallen, and we had been searching for nearly +half an hour when suddenly my wife shouted that a +monkey was running along a branch above our heads. I +fired with the shotgun at a mass of moving leaves and +killed a second gibbon which had been hiding in the +thick foliage. Instead of running the animals would +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">- 257 -</span> +sometimes disappear as completely as though they had +vanished in the air. After being fooled several times +we learned to conceal ourselves in the bushes where we +could watch the trees, and sooner or later the monkeys +would try to steal away.</p> + +<p>The langurs and baboons were by no means as wild +as the gibbons and were found in larger herds. Some +of the langurs were carrying babies which clung to their +mothers between the fore legs and did not seem to impede +them in the slightest on their leaps through the +tree tops.</p> + +<p>The young of this species are bright orange-red and +strangely unlike the gray adults. As they grow older +the red hair is gradually replaced by gray, but the tail +is the last part of the body to change. Heller captured +one of the tiny red monkeys and brought it back to +camp in his coat pocket. The little fellow was only a +few days old, and of course, absolutely helpless.</p> + +<p>When it was wrapped in cotton with only its queer +little wizened face and blue eyes visible it had a startling +resemblance to a human baby until its long tail +would suddenly flop into sight and dispel the illusion. +It lived only four days in spite of constant care.</p> + +<p>There are fifty-five species of langurs (<i>Pygathrix</i>) +all of which are confined to the Orient. In some parts +of India the animals are sacred and climb about the +houses or wander in the streets of villages quite without +fear. At times they do so much damage to crops +that the natives who do not dare to kill the animals +themselves implore foreigners to do so. The langurs +are not confined to the tropics, but in the Tibetan mountains +range far up into the snow and enjoy the cold +weather. In the market at Li-chiang we saw several +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">- 258 -</span> +skins of these animals which had been brought down +by the Tibetans; the hair was long and silky and was +used by the Chinese for rugs and coats.</p> + +<p>The species which we killed at the Nam-ting River +camp, like all others of the genus <i>Pygathrix</i>, was interesting +because of the long hairs of the head which form +a distinct ridge on the occiput. We never heard the +animals utter sounds, but it is said that the common +Indian langur, <i>Pygathrix entellus</i>, gives a loud whoop +as it runs through the tree tops. Often when a tiger +is prowling about the jungle the Indian langurs will +follow the beast, keeping in the branches just above its +head and scolding loudly.</p> + +<p>The baboon, or macaque, which we killed on the Nam-ting +was a close relative of the species (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>) +which one sees parading solemnly about the streets of +Calcutta, Bombay, and other Indian cities. In Agra, +the home of the beautiful Taj Mahal, the Monkey +Temple is visited by every tourist. A large herd of +macaques lives in the grounds and at a few chuckling +calls from the native attendants will come trooping over +the walls for the food which is kept on sale at the gate. +These animals are surprisingly tame and make most +amusing pets.</p> + +<p>On one of our hunts my wife and I discovered a water +hole in the midst of a dense jungle where the mud was +trodden hard by sambur, muntjac, wild boar, and other +animals. We decided to spend a night watching beside +it, but the "Dying Rabbit" who was enthusiastic in the +day time lost his courage as the sunlight waned. Very +doubtfully he consented to go.</p> + +<p>Although the trip netted us no tangible results it +was an experience of which we often think. We +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">- 259 -</span> +started just at dusk and installed ourselves in the +bushes a few yards from the water hole. In half an +hour the forest was enveloped in the velvety blackness +of the tropic night. Not a star nor a gleam of light +was visible and I could not see my hand before my face.</p> + +<p>We sat absolutely motionless and listened to the +breath of the jungle, which although without definite +sound, was vibrant with life. Now and then a muntjac +barked hoarsely and the roar of a sambur stag +thrilled us like an electric shock. Once a wild boar +grunted on the opposite bank of the river, the sound +coming to us clear and sharp through the stillness although +the animal was far away.</p> + +<p>Tiny forest creatures rustled all about us in the +leaves and a small animal ran across my wife's lap, leaping +frantically down the hill as it felt her move. For +five hours we sat there absolutely motionless. Although +no animals came to the water hole we were silent +with a great happiness as we groped our way back +to camp, for we had been close to the heart of the jungle +and were thrilled with the mystery of the night.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">- 260 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE SHANS OF THE BURMA BORDER</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> saw many Shans at the Nam-ting River, for not +only was there a village half a mile beyond our camp, +but natives were passing continually along the trail on +their way to and from the Burma frontier. The village +was named Nam-ka. Its chief was absent when +we arrived, but the natives were cordial and agreed to +hunt with us; when the head man returned, however, +he was most unfriendly. He forbade the villagers +from coming to our camp and arguments were of no +avail. It soon became evident that only force could +change his attitude, and one morning, with all our servants +and <i>mafus</i>, we visited his house. He was informed +that unless he ceased his opposition and ordered +his men to assist us in hunting we would take him to +Meng-ting for trial before the mandarin. He grudgingly +complied and we had no further trouble.</p> + +<p>We found the Shans at Nam-ka to be simple and +honest people but abnormally lazy. During our three +weeks' stay not a single trap was stolen, although the +natives prized them highly, and often brought to us +those in which animals had been caught. Shans were +continually about our camp where boxes were left unlocked, +but not an article of our equipment was missed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f260a" style="width: 278px;"> + <img src="images/img_f260a.png" width="278" height="355" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Girl</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f260b" style="width: 273px;"> + <img src="images/img_f260b.png" width="273" height="357" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Boy</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">- 261 -</span></p> + +<p>The Nam-ka Shans elevated their houses on six-foot +poles and built an open porch in front of the door, while +the dwellings at Meng-ting and farther up the valley +were all placed upon the ground. The thatched roofs +overhung several feet and the sides of the houses were +open so that the free passage of air kept them delightfully +cool. Moreover, they were surprisingly clean, +for the floors were of split bamboo, and the inmates, if +they wore sandals, left them at the door. In the center +of the single room, on a large flat stone, a small fire +always burned, but much of the cooking was done on +the porch where a tiny pavilion had been erected over +the hearth.</p> + +<p>The Shans at Nam-ka had "no visible means of support." +The extensive rice paddys indicated that in the +past there had been considerable cultivation but the +fields were weed-grown and abandoned. The villagers +purchased all their vegetables from the Mohammedan +hunter and two other Chinese who lived a mile up the +trail, or from passing caravans whom they sometimes +entertained. In all probability they lived upon the +sale of smuggled opium for they were only a few miles +from the Burma border.</p> + +<p>Virtually every Shan we saw in the south was heavily +tattooed. Usually the right leg alone, but sometimes +both, were completely covered from the hip to the knee +with intricate designs in black or red. The ornamentations +often extended entirely around the body over the +abdomen and waist, but less frequently on the breast +and arms.</p> + +<p>All the natives were inordinately proud of these decorations +and usually fastened their wide trousers in +such a way as to display them to the best advantage. +We often could persuade a man to pose before the +camera by admiring his tattoo marks and it was most +amusing to watch his childlike pleasure.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">- 262 -</span></p> + +<p>The Shan tribe is a large one with many subdivisions, +and it is probable that at one time it inhabited a +large part of China south of the Yangtze River; indeed, +there is reason to believe that the Cantonese Chinamen +are chiefly of Shan stock, and the facial resemblance +between the two races certainly is remarkable.</p> + +<p>Although the Shans formerly ruled a vast territory +in Yün-nan before its conquest by the Mongol emperors +of China in the thirteenth century A. D., and at one +time actually subdued Burma and established a dynasty +of their own, at present the only independent kingdom +of the race is that of Siam. By far the greatest number +of Shans live in semi-independent states tributary +to Burma, China, and Siam, and in Yün-nan inhabit +almost all of the southern valleys below an altitude of +4,000 feet.</p> + +<p>The reason that the Chinese allow them to hold such +an extent of fertile land is because the low plains are +considered unhealthy and the Chinese cannot, or will +not, live there. Whether or not the malarial fever of +the valleys is so exceedingly deadly remains to be +proved, but the Chinese believe it to be so and the result +is the same. Where the Shans are numerous +enough to have a chief of their own they live in a semi-independent +state, for although their head man is subordinate +to the district Chinese official, the latter seldom +interferes with the internal affairs of the tribe.</p> + +<p>The Shans are a short, strongly-built race with a distinct +Mongolian type of features and rather fair complexions. +Their dress varies decidedly with the region, +but the men of the southern part of the province on the +Nam-ting River wear a pair of enormous trousers, so +baggy that they are almost skirtlike, a white jacket, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">- 263 -</span> +and a large white or pink turban surmounted by a huge +straw hat. The women dress in a white jacket and +skirt of either striped or dark blue cloth; their turbans +are of similar material and may be worn in a high cylinder, +a low oval, or many other shapes according to the +particular part of the province in which they live.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">- 264 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">PRISONERS OF WAR IN BURMA</p> + +<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> camp at Nam-ka was a supremely happy one +and we left it on March 7, with much regret. Its resources +seemed to be almost exhausted and the Mohammedan +hunter assured us that at a village called +Ma-li-ling we would find excellent shooting. We +asked him the distance and he replied, "About a long +bamboo joint away." It required three days to get +there!</p> + +<p>Whether the man had ever been to Ma-li-ling we do +not know but we eventually found it to be a tiny village +built into the side of a hill in an absolutely barren +country where there was not a vestige of cover. +Our journey there was not uneventful. We left +Nam-ka with high hopes which were somewhat dampened +after a day's unsuccessful hunting at the spot +where our caravan crossed the Nam-ting River.</p> + +<p>With a Shan guide we traveled due north along a +good trail which led through dense jungle where there +was not a clearing or a sign of life. In the afternoon +we noted that the trail bore strongly to the west and +ascended rapidly. Soon we had left the jungle and +emerged into an absolutely treeless valley between high +barren hills. We knew that the Burma frontier could +not be far away, and in a few moments we passed a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">- 265 -</span> +large square "boundary stone"; a hundred yards on the +other side the hills were covered with bright green +stalks and here and there a field glistened with white +poppy blossoms. The guide insisted that we were on +the direct road to Ma-li-ling which for the first time he +said was in Burma. On our map it was marked well +over the border in Chinese territory and we were +greatly puzzled.</p> + +<p>About six o'clock the brown huts of a village were +silhouetted against the sky on a tiny knoll in the midst +of a grove of beautiful trees, and we camped at the +edge of a water hole. The pool was almost liquid mud, +but we were told that it was the only water supply of +the village and its cattle. As though to prove the +statement a dozen buffalos ambled slowly down the hill, +and stood half submerged in the brown liquid, placidly +chewing their cuds; meanwhile blue-clad Shan women +with buckets in their hands were constantly arriving at +the pond for their evening supply of water. We had +no filter and it was nauseating to think of drinking the +filthy liquid but there was no alternative and after repeated +boiling and several strainings we settled it with +alum and disguised its taste in tea and soup.</p> + +<p>After dinner we questioned the few natives who +spoke Chinese, but we became only more and more confused. +They knew of no such place as Ma-li-ling and +our Shan guide had discreetly disappeared. But they +were familiar with the trail to Ma-li-pa, a village farther +west in Burma and, moreover, they said that two +hundred foreign soldiers were stationed there. We +were quite certain that they must be native Indian +troops but thought that a white officer might perhaps +be in command.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">- 266 -</span></p> + +<p>We did not wish to cross the frontier because of possible +political difficulties since we had no permits to +shoot in Burma, but there seemed to be no alternative, +for we were hopelessly bewildered by the mythical Ma-li-ling. +We eventually discovered that there were two +villages by that name—one in Burma, and the other +in China, where it was correctly placed on the map +which we were using.</p> + +<p>While we were discussing the matter a tremendous +altercation arose between the Chinese <i>mafus</i> and the +servants. For some time Roy did not interfere, supposing +it to be a personal quarrel, but the disturbance +at last became unbearable. Calling Wu we learned +that because we had been so careful to avoid English +territory the <i>mafus</i> had conceived the idea that for some +reason we were afraid to meet other foreigners. Since +we had inadvertently crossed into Burma it appeared +to them that it would be an opportune time to extort +an increase of wages. They announced, therefore, that +unless extra money was given them at once they would +untie the loads and leave us.</p> + +<p>They were hardly prepared for what followed, however. +Taking his Mannlicher rifle, Roy called the +<i>mafus</i> together and told them that if any man touched +a load he would begin to shoot the mules and that if +they made the slightest resistance the gun would be +turned on them. A <i>mafus'</i> mules represent all his +property and they did not relish the turn affairs had +taken. They subsided at once, but we had the loads +guarded during the night. In the morning the <i>mafus</i> +were exceedingly surprised when they learned that we +were going to Ma-li-pa and their change of front was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">- 267 -</span> +laughable; they were as humble and anxious to please +as they had been belligerent the night before.</p> + +<p>The trail led over the same treeless rolling hills +through which we had passed on the previous afternoon. +There was only one village, but it was surrounded +by poppy fields in full blossom. It must be a +rather difficult matter for a native living in China near +the border to understand why he should not be allowed +to produce the lucrative opium while only a few yards +away, over an imaginary line, it can be planted without +restriction. Poppies seem to grow on hillsides better +than on level ground. The plants begin to blossom in +late February and the petals, when about to fall, are collected +for the purpose of making "leaves" with which to +cover the balls of opium. The seed pods which are left +after the petals drop off are scarified vertically, at intervals +of two or three days, by means of a sharp cutting instrument. +The operation is usually performed about +four o'clock in the afternoon, and the opium, in the form +of dried juice, is collected the next morning. When +China, in 1906, forbade the consumption of opium and +the growing of poppies, it was estimated that there were +from twenty-five to thirty millions of smokers in the +Empire.</p> + +<p>We reached Ma-li-pa about one o'clock in the afternoon +and found it to be a straggling village built on +two sides of a deep ravine, with a mixed population of +Shans and Chinese. It happened to be the weekly market +day and the "bazaar" was crowded. A number of +Indian soldiers in khaki were standing about, and I +called out to Roy, "I wonder if any of them speak +English." Instantly a little fellow approached, with +cap in hand, and said, "Yes, Madame, I speak English."</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">- 268 -</span></p> + +<p>One cannot realize how strange it seemed to hear our +own language from a native in this out-of-the-way spot I +He was the "compounder," or medical assistant, and +told us that the hundred native troops were in charge +of a white officer whose house was on the opposite side +of the river gorge. He guided us to a temple and, +while the mules were being unloaded, in walked a tall, +handsome young British officer who introduced himself +as Captain Clive. He was almost speechless with +surprise at seeing me, for he had not spoken a sentence +in English or seen a white person since his arrival at +this lonely post five months before.</p> + +<p>He asked us at once to come to his quarters for tiffin +and we accepted gladly. On the way he gave us our +first news of the outside world, for we had been beyond +communication of any sort for months, and we learned +that the United States had severed diplomatic relations +with Germany.</p> + +<p>Captain Clive's bungalow was a two-room bamboo +house with a broad verandah and thatched with straw. +It was delightfully cool and dark after the glare of the +yellow sun-baked plains about us, and in perfect order. +The care which Britishers take to keep from "letting +down" while guarding the frontiers of their vast +empire is proverbial, and Captain Clive was a splendid +example of the Indian officer. He was as clean-shaved +and well-groomed as though he had been expecting us +for days and the tiffin to which we sat down was as +dainty and well served as it could have been in the midst +of civilization.</p> + +<p>The great Lord Clive of India was an ancestor of +our young officer who had been temporarily detached +from his regiment, the 129th Baluchis, and sent on border +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">- 269 -</span> +duty. He was very unhappy, for his brother officers +were in active service in East Africa, and he had +tried to resign several times, but the Indian government +would not release him. When we reached Rangoon +some months later we were glad to learn that he had rejoined +his regiment and was at the front. Ma-li-pa +was a recently established "winter station" and in May +would be abandoned when the troop returned to Lashio, +ten days' journey away. Comfortable barracks, cook +houses, and a hospital had been erected beside a large +space which had been cleaned of turf for a parade +ground.</p> + +<p>Captain Clive was in communication by heliograph +with Lashio, at the end of the railroad, and received a +<i>résumé</i> of world news two or three times a week. With +mirrors during the day and lanterns at night messages +were flashed from one mountain top to another and, +under favorable conditions, reached Lashio in seven or +eight hours.</p> + +<p>We pitched our tents a short distance from the barracks +in an open field, for there was no available shade. +Although Captain Clive was perfectly satisfied with +our passports and credentials he could not let us proceed +until he had communicated with the Indian government +by heliograph. The border was being +guarded very closely to prevent German sympathizers +from crossing into Burma from China and inciting +the native tribes to rebellion.</p> + +<p>In December, 1915, a rather serious uprising among +the Kachins in the Myitkyina district on the upper +waters of the Irawadi River had been incited by a foreigner, +I believe, and Clive had assisted in suppressing +it. The Indian government was taking no further +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">- 270 -</span> +chances and had given strict orders to arrest and hold +anyone, other than a native, who crossed the border +from China.</p> + +<p>Very fortunately H. B. M. Consul-General Goffe +at Yün-nan Fu had communicated with the Lieutenant-Governor +of Burma concerning our Expedition and +we consequently expected no trouble, but Captain Clive +could not let us proceed until he had orders to do so +from the Superintendent of the Northern Shan States. +Through a delayed message this permission did not +reach him for five days and in the meantime we made +the most of the limited collecting resources which Ma-li-pa +afforded.</p> + +<p>Clive ordered his day like all the residents of Burma. +He rose at six o'clock and after coffee and rolls had +drill for two hours. At half past ten a heavy meal took +the place of breakfast and tiffin; tea, with sandwiches +and toast, was served at three o'clock, and dinner at +eight. His company was composed of several different +native tribes, and each religious caste had its own cook +and water carrier, for a man of one caste could not prepare +meals for men of another. It is an extraordinary +system but one which appears to operate perfectly well +under the adaptable English government. Certainly +one of the great elements in the success of the British +as colonizers is their respect for native customs and +superstitions!</p> + +<p>The company drilled splendidly and we were surprised +to hear all commands given in English although +none of the men could understand that language. This +is done to enable British and Indian troops to maneuver +together. Captain Clive, himself, spoke Hindustani to +his officers. In the evening the men played football +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">- 271 -</span> +on the parade ground and it seemed as though we had +suddenly been transported into civilization on the magic +carpet of the Arabian Nights.</p> + +<p>Every morning we went shooting at daylight and returned +about nine o'clock. Conditions were not favorable +for small mammals and although we could undoubtedly +have caught a few civets, mongooses, and cats +we did not set a line of steel traps for we expected to +leave at any time. Our attention was mostly devoted +to bird collecting and we obtained about two hundred +interesting specimens.</p> + +<p>We had our mid-morning meal each day with Captain +Clive and he dined with us in the evening. He +had brought with him from Lashio a large quantity of +supplies and lived almost as well as he could have done +at home. Although the days were very warm, the +nights were cold and a camp fire was most acceptable.</p> + +<p>Captain Clive was on excellent terms with the Chinese +authorities and, while we were there, a very old +mandarin, blind and infirm, called to present his compliments. +He had been an ardent sportsman and was +especially interested in our guns; had we been willing +to accept the commission he would have paid us the +money then and there to purchase for him a Savage +.250-.300 rifle like the one we were carrying. The old +gentleman always had been very loyal to the British +and had received several decorations for his services.</p> + +<p>A few days after our arrival a half dead Chinaman +crawled into camp with his throat terribly cut. He had +been attacked by brigands only a few miles over the +border and had just been able to reach Ma-li-pa. The +company "compounder" took him in charge and, when +Clive asked him about the patient, his evasive answers +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">- 272 -</span> +were most amusing; like all Orientals he would not +commit himself to any definite statement because he +might "lose face" if his opinion proved to be wrong.</p> + +<p>Captain Clive said to him, "Do you think the Chinaman +will die?" Looking very judicial the native replied, +"Sir, he <i>may</i> die, and yet, he may live." "But," +said Clive, "he will probably die, won't he?" "Yes," +was the answer, "and yet perhaps he will live." That +was all the satisfaction he was able to get.</p> + +<p>Clive told us of another native who formerly had +been in his company. He had been transferred and +one day the Captain met him in Rangoon. When +asked if his pay was satisfactory the answer was typical, +"Sir, it is good, but not <i>s-o-o</i> good!"</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of our fourth day in Ma-li-pa a +heliograph from Rangoon announced that "The Asiatic +Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum +of Natural History is especially commended to His +Majesty's Indian Government and permission is +hereby granted to carry on its work in Burma wherever +it may desire." This was only one of the many courtesies +which we received from the British.</p> + +<p>The morning following the receipt of the heliogram +we broke camp at daylight. When the last mule of +the caravan had disappeared over the brown hills +toward China we regretfully said farewell and rode +away. If we are ever again made "prisoners of war" +we hope our captor will be as delightful a gentleman as +Captain Clive.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">- 273 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII">CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">HUNTING PEACOCKS ON THE SALWEEN RIVER</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Ma-li-pa we traveled almost due north to the +Salween River. The country through which we +passed was a succession of dry treeless hills, brown and +barren and devoid of animal life. On the evening of +the third day we reached the Salween at a ferry a few +miles from the village of Changlung where the river +begins its great bend to the eastward and sweeps across +the border from China into Burma.</p> + +<p>The stream has cut a tremendous gorge for itself +through the mountains and the sides are so precipitous +that the trail doubles back upon itself a dozen times before +it reaches the river 3,500 feet below. The upper +half of the gorge is bare or thinly patched with trees, +but in the lower part the grass is long and rank and a +thin dry jungle straggles along the water's edge. The +Salween at this point is about two hundred yards wide, +but narrows to half that distance below the ferry and +flows in a series of rapids between rocky shores.</p> + +<p>The valley is devoid of human life except for three +boatmen who tend the ferry, but the deserted rice fields +along a narrow shelf showed evidence of former cultivation. +On the slopes far up the side of the cañon is +a Miao village, a tribe which we had not seen before. +Probably the valley is too unhealthy for any natives to +live close to the water's edge and, even at the time of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">- 274 -</span> +our visit in early March, the heated air was laden with +malaria.</p> + +<p>The ferrymen were stupid fellows, half drugged with +opium, and assured us that there were no mammals +near the river. They admitted that they sometimes +heard peacocks and, while our tents were being pitched +on a steep sand bank beneath a giant tree, the weird +catlike call of a peacock echoed up the valley. It was +answered by another farther down the river, and the +report of my gun when I fired at a bat brought forth +a wild "pe-haun," "pe-haun," "pe-haun" from half a +dozen places.</p> + +<p>The ferry was a raft built of long bamboo poles +lashed together with vines and creepers. It floated just +above the surface and was half submerged when loaded. +The natives used a most extraordinary contrivance in +place of oars. It consisted of a piece of tightly woven +bamboo matting three feet long and two feet wide at +right angles to which was fastened a six-foot handle. +With these the men nonchalantly raked the water +toward them from the bow and stem when they had +poled the raft well into the current. The invested capital +was not extensive, for when the ferry or "propellers" +needed repairs a few hours' work in the jungle sufficed +to build an entirely new outfit.</p> + +<p>All of the peacocks were on the opposite side of the +river from our camp where the jungle was thickest. +On the first morning my wife and I floated down the +river on the raft for half a mile and landed to stalk a +peacock which had called frequently from a rocky point +near the water's edge. We picked our way through +the jungle with the utmost caution but the wary old +cock either saw or heard us before we were within range, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">- 275 -</span> +and I caught just a glimpse of a brilliant green neck +as he disappeared into the bushes. A second bird +called on a point a half mile farther on, but it refused +to come into the open and as we started to stalk it in +the jungle we heard a patter of feet among the dry +leaves followed by a roar of wings, and saw the bird +sail over the tree tops and alight on the summit of a +bush-clad hill.</p> + +<p>This was the only peacock which we were ever able +to flush when it had already gained cover. Usually the +birds depend entirely upon their ability to hide or run +through the bushes. After several attempts we learned +that it was impossible to stalk the peacocks successfully. +The jungle was so crisp and parched that the dry leaves +crackled at every step and even small birds made a +loud noise while scratching on the ground.</p> + +<p>The only way to get the peacocks was to watch for +them at the river when they came to drink in the early +morning and evening. Between two rocky points +where we had first seen the birds there was a long +curved beach of fine white sand. One morning Heller +waited on the point nearest camp while my wife and I +posted ourselves under a bush farther down the river. +We had been sitting quietly for half an hour when we +heard a scratching in the jungle. Thinking it was a +peacock feeding we turned our backs to the water and +sat motionless peering beneath the bushes. Meanwhile, +Heller witnessed an interesting little drama enacted +behind us.</p> + +<p>An old male peacock with a splendid train stole +around the point close to the water, jumped to a high +stone within thirty yards of us and stood for a full minute +craning its beautiful green neck to get a better view +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">- 276 -</span> +as we kneeled in front of him totally unconscious of his +presence. After he had satisfied his curiosity he hopped +off the observation pinnacle and, with his body flattened +close to the ground, slipped quietly away. It was an +excellent example of the stalker being stalked and had +Heller not witnessed the scene we should never have +known how the clever old bird had fooled us.</p> + +<p>The following morning we got a peahen at the same +place. Heller had concealed himself in the bushes on +one side of the point while I watched the other. +Shortly after daylight an old female sailed out of the +jungle on set wings and alighted at the water's edge. +She saw Heller almost instantly, although he was completely +covered by the vines, and started to fly, but he +dropped her with a broken wing. Recovering herself, +she darted around the rocky point only to meet a +charge of B.B.'s from my gun. She was a beautiful +bird with a delicate crown of slender feathers, a yellow +and blue face patch and a green neck and back, but +her plumes were short and inconspicuous when compared +with those of the male.</p> + +<p>Probably these birds had never before been hunted +but they were exceedingly shy and difficult to kill. +Although they called more or less during the entire day and +we could locate them exactly, they were so far back +in the jungle that the crackling of the dry leaves made +a stalk impossible. We tried to drive them but were +unsuccessful, for the birds would never flush unless +they happened to be in the open and cut off from cover. +Apparently realizing that their brilliant plumage made +them conspicuous objects, the birds relied entirely upon +an actual screen of bushes and their wonderful sight +and hearing to protect themselves from enemies.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">- 277 -</span></p> + +<p>They usually came to the river to drink very early in +the morning and just before dusk in the afternoon, but +on cloudy days they might appear at almost any hour. +If undisturbed they would remain near the water's +edge for a considerable time or strut about the sand +beach just at the edge of the jungle. At the sound of +a gun or any other loud sharp noise the peacocks would +answer with their mournful catlike wail, exactly as the +domesticated birds will do.</p> + +<p>The Chinese believe that the flesh of the peafowl is +poison and our servants were horrified when they +learned that we intended to eat it. They fully expected +that we would not survive the night and, even when +they saw we had experienced no ill effects, they could +not be persuaded to touch any of it themselves. An +old peacock is too tough to eat, but the younger birds +are excellent and when stuffed with chestnuts and +roasted they are almost the equal of turkey.</p> + +<p>The species which we killed on the Salween River is +the green peafowl (<i>Pavo munticus</i>) which inhabits +Burma, Sumatra, Java, and the Malay Peninsula. Its +neck is green, instead of purple, as is that of the common +Indian peacock (<i>Pavo cristatus</i>), and it is said that it +is the most beautiful bird of the world.</p> + +<p>The long ocellated tail coverts called the "train" are +dropped about August and the birds assume more simple +barred plumes, but the molt is very irregular; usually +the full plumage is resumed in March or even +earlier. The train is, of course, an ornament to attract +the female and, when a cock is strutting about with +spread plumes, he sometimes makes a most peculiar +rustling sound by vibrating the long feathers.</p> + +<p>The eight or ten eggs are laid on the bare ground +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">- 278 -</span> +under a bush in the dense jungle, are dull brownish white +and nearly three inches long. The chicks are sometimes +domesticated, but even when born in captivity, it is said +they are difficult to tame and soon wander away. The +birds are omnivorous, feeding on insects, grubs, reptiles, +flower buds, young shoots, and grain.</p> + +<p>The common peafowl (<i>Pavo cristatus</i>) is a native of +India, Ceylon, and Assam. It is held sacred by some +religious castes and we saw dozens of the birds wandering +about the grounds of the temples in Benares, Agra, +and Delhi. Peafowl are said to be rather disagreeable +pets because they often attack infirm persons and children +and kill young poultry.</p> + +<p>In some parts of Ceylon and India the birds are so +abundant and easily killed that they do not furnish even +passable sport, but in other places they are as wild and +difficult to shoot as we found them to be on the Salween +River. In India it is a universal belief among sportsmen +that wherever peafowls are common, there tiger +will be found.</p> + +<p>A very beautiful variety which seems to have arisen +abruptly in domestication is the so-called "japanned" +or black-shouldered peacock named <i>Pavo nigripennis</i> by +Mr. Sclater. In some respects it is intermediate between +<i>P. munticus</i> and <i>P. cristatus</i> and apparently +"breeds true" but never has been found in a wild state. +Albino specimens are by no means unusual and are a +feature of many zoölogical gardens.</p> + +<p>Peacocks have been under domestication for many +centuries and are mentioned in the Bible as having been +imported into Palestine by Solomon; although the bird +is referred to in mythology, the Greeks probably had but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">- 279 -</span> +little knowledge of it until after the conquests of Alexander.</p> + +<p>In the thick jungle only a few hundred yards from +our camp on the Salween River I put up a silver pheasant +(<i>Euplocamus nycthemerus</i>), one of the earliest +known and most beautiful species of the family Phasianidæ. +Its white mantle, delicately vermiculated with +black, extends like a wedding veil over the head, back +and tail, in striking contrast to the blue-black underparts, +red cheek patches, and red legs.</p> + +<p>This bird was formerly pictured in embroidery upon +the heart and back badges of the official dresses of civil +mandarins to denote the rank of the wearer, and is found +only in southern and western China. It is by no means +abundant in the parts of Yün-nan which we visited and, +moreover, lives in such dense jungle that it is difficult to +find. The natives sometimes snare the birds and offer +them for sale alive.</p> + +<p>We also saw monkeys at our camp on the Salween +River, but were not successful in killing any. They +were probably the Indian baboon (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>) +and, for animals which had not been hunted, were most +extraordinarily wild. They were in large herds and +sometimes came down to the water to skip and dance +along the sand and play among the rocks. The monkeys +invariably appeared on the opposite side of the river +from us and by the time we hunted up the boatmen and +got the clumsy raft to the other shore the baboons had +disappeared in the tall grass or were merrily running +through the trees up the mountain-side.</p> + +<p>The valley was too dry to be a very productive trapping +ground for either small or large mammals, but +the birds were interesting and we secured a good many +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">- 280 -</span> +species new to our collection. Jungle fowl were abundant +and pigeons exceedingly so, but we saw no ducks +along the river and only two cormorants.</p> + +<p>Very few natives crossed at the ferry during our stay, +for it is a long way from the main road and the climb +out of the gorge is too formidable to be undertaken if +the Salween can possibly be crossed higher up where +the valley is wide and shallow. While we were camped +at the river the heat was most uncomfortable during +the middle of the day and was but little mitigated by +the wind which blew continually. During mid-summer +the valley at this point must be a veritable furnace and +doubtless reeks with fever. We slept under nets at +night and in the early evening, while we were watching +for peacocks, the mosquitoes were very troublesome.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">- 281 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIV">CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">THE GIBBONS OF HO-MU-SHU</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is a long hard climb out of the Salween valley. +We left on March 24 and all day crawled up the steep +sides on a trail which doubled back and forth upon itself +like an endless letter S. From our camp at night +the river was just visible as a thin green line several +thousand feet below, and for the first time in days, we +needed a charcoal fire in our tents.</p> + +<p>We were <i>en route</i> to Lung-ling, a town of considerable +size, where there was a possibility that mail might +be awaiting us in care of the mandarin. Although ordinarily +a three days' journey, it was more than four +days before we arrived, because I had a sharp attack +of malaria shortly after leaving the Salween River and +we had to travel half stages.</p> + +<p>When we were well out of the valley and at an altitude +of 6,000 feet, we arrived at a Chinese town. Its +dark evil-smelling houses, jammed together in a crowded +mass, and the filthy streets swarming with ragged +children and foot-bound women, were in unpleasant +contrast to the charming little Shan villages which we +had seen in the low country. The inhabitants themselves +appeared to no better advantage when compared with +their Shan neighbors, for their stares and insolent curiosity +were almost unbearable.</p> + +<p>The region between the Salween River at Changlung +and Lung-ling is as uninteresting to the zoölogist +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">- 282 -</span> +as it could possibly be, for the hills are dry and bare +and devoid of animal life. Lung-ling is a typical Chinese +town except that the streets are wide and it is not as +dirty as usual. The mandarin was a jolly rotund little +fellow who simulated great sympathy when he informed +me that he had received no mail for us. We had left +directions to have a runner follow us from Yung-chang +and in the event that he did not find our camp to proceed +to Lung-ling with the mail. We learned some +weeks later that the runner had been frightened by brigands +and had turned back long before he reached +Meng-ting.</p> + +<p>We had heard from our <i>mafus</i> and other natives that +black monkeys were to be found on a mountain pass +not far from the village of Ho-mu-shu, on the main +Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road and, as we were certain +that they would prove to be gibbons, we decided to make +that our next hunting camp. It was three stages from +Lung-ling and, toward evening of the second day, we +again descended to the Salween River.</p> + +<p>The valley at this point is several miles wide and is +so dry that the few shrubs and bushes seem to be parched +and barely able to live. At the upper end a picturesque +village is set among extensive rice fields. Although a +few Chinese live there, its inhabitants are chiefly Shans +who are in a transitory state and are gradually adopting +Chinese customs. The houses are joined to each other +in the Chinese way and are built of mud, thatched with +straw. In shape as well as in composition they are quite +unlike the dwellings of the southern Shans. The women +wore cylindrical turbans, about eighteen inches high, +which at a distance looked like silk hats, and the men +were dressed in narrow trousers and jackets of Chinese +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">- 283 -</span> +blue. I believe that some of the Shan women also had +bound feet but of this I cannot be certain.</p> + +<p>We camped on a little knoll under an enormous tree +at the far end of the village street, and a short time +after the tents were up we had a visit from the Shan +magistrate. He was a dapper energetic little fellow +wearing foreign dress and quite <i>au courant</i> with foreign +ways. He even owned a breech-loading shotgun, +and, before we left, sent to ask for shells. He presented +us with the usual chickens and I returned several tins +of cigarettes. He appeared to be quite a sportsman +and directed us to a place on the mountain above the +village where he said monkeys were abundant.</p> + +<p>We left early in the morning with a guide and, after +a hard climb, arrived at a little village near the forest +to which the magistrate had directed us. Not only did +the natives assure us that they had never seen monkeys +but we discovered for ourselves that the only water was +more than a mile away, and that camping there was +out of the question.</p> + +<p>The next day, April 1, we went on to Ho-mu-shu. +It is a tiny village built into the mountain-side with +hardly fifty yards of level ground about it, but commanding +a magnificent view over the Salween valley. +Although we reached there at half past two in the afternoon +the <i>mafus</i> insisted on camping because they swore +that there was no water within fifty <i>li</i> up the mountain. +Very unwillingly I consented to camp and the next +morning found, as usual, that the <i>mafus</i> had lied for +there was a splendid camping place with good water not +two hours from Ho-mu-shu. It was useless to rage for +the Chinese have no scruples about honesty in such small +matters, and the head <i>mafu</i> blandly admitted that he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">- 284 -</span> +knew there was a camping place farther on but that he +was tired and wanted to stop early.</p> + +<p>As we gained the summit of the ridge we were greeted +with a ringing "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa," from the +forest five hundred feet below us; they were the calls of +gibbons, without a doubt, but strikingly unlike those +of the Nam-ting River. We decided to camp at once +and, after considerable prospecting, chose a flat place +beside the road. It was by no means ideal but had the +advantage of giving us an opportunity to hunt from +either side of the ridge which for its entire length was +scarcely two hundred feet in width. The sides fell away +for thousands of feet in steep forest-clad slopes and, +as far as our eyes could reach, wave after wave of +mountains rolled outward in a great sea of green.</p> + +<p>Our camp would have been delightful except for the +wind which swept across the pass night and day in an +unceasing gale. My wife and I set a line of traps +along a trail which led down the north side of the ridge, +while Heller chose the opposite slope. We were entranced +with the forest. The trees were immense +spreading giants with interlaced branches that formed +a solid roof of green 150 feet above the soft moss carpet +underneath. Every trunk was clothed in a smothering +mass of vines and ferns and parasitic plants and, from +the lower branches, thousands of ropelike creepers +swayed back and forth with every breath of wind. Below, +the forest was fairly open save for occasional +patches of dwarf bamboo, but the upper canopy was so +close and dense that even at noon there was hardly more +than a somber twilight beneath the trees.</p> + +<p>Our first night on the pass was spent in a terrific gale +which howled up the valley from the south and swept +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">- 285 -</span> +across the ridge in a torrent of wind. The huge trees +around us bent and tossed, and our tents seemed +about to be torn to shreds. Amid the crashing of +branches and the roar of the wind it was impossible to +hear each other speak and sleep was out of the question. +We lay in our bags expecting every second to have the +covering torn from above our heads, but the tough cloth +held, and at midnight the gale began to lull. In the +morning the sun was out in a cloudless sky but the wind +never ceased entirely on the pass even though there was +a breathless calm among the trees a few hundred feet +below.</p> + +<p>My wife and I had just returned from inspecting our +line of traps about nine o'clock in the morning when the +forest suddenly resounded with the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," +"hu-wa" of the gibbons. It seemed a long way off at +first, but sounded louder and clearer every minute. At +the first note we seized our guns and dashed down the +mountain-side, slipping, stumbling, and falling. The +animals were in the giant forest about five hundred feet +below the summit of the ridge and as we neared them we +moved cautiously from tree to tree, going forward only +when they called. It was one of the most exciting stalks +I have ever made, for the wild, ringing howls seemed +always close above our heads.</p> + +<p>We were still a hundred yards away when a huge black +monkey leaped out of a tree top just as I stepped from +behind a bush, and he saw me instantly. For a full half +minute he hung suspended by one arm, his round head +thrust forward staring intently; then launching himself +into the air as though shot from a catapult he caught a +branch twenty feet away, swung to another, and literally +flew through the tree tops. Without a sound save the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">- 286 -</span> +swish of the branches and splash after splash in the +leaves, the entire herd followed him down the hill. It +was out of range for the shotgun and my wife was ten +feet behind me with the rifle, but had I had it in my +hand I doubt if I could have hit one of those flying +balls of fur.</p> + +<p>We returned to camp with sorrow in our hearts, but +two days later we redeemed ourselves and brought in the +first new gibbons. We were sitting on a bed of fragrant +pine needles watching for a squirrel which had been +chattering in the upper branches of a giant tree, when +suddenly the wild call of the monkeys echoed up the +mountain-side.</p> + +<p>They were far away to the left, and we ran toward +them, stumbling and slipping on the moss-covered rocks +and logs, the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" sounding +louder every moment. They seemed almost under us +at times and we would stand motionless and silent only +to hear the howls die away in the distance. At last we +located them on the precipitous side of a deep gorge +filled with an impenetrable jungle of palms and thorny +plants. It was an impossible place to cross, and we sat +down, irresolute and discouraged. In a few moments +a chorus of howls broke out and we saw the big black +apes swinging along through the trees, two hundred +yards away. Finally they stopped and began to feed. +They were small marks at that distance but I rested +my little Mannlicher on a stump and began to shoot +while Yvette watched them with the glasses. One big +fellow swung out on a branch and hung with one arm +while he picked a cluster of leaves with the other. Yvette +saw my first shot cut a twig above his head but he did +not move, and at the roar of the second he dropped +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">- 287 -</span> +heavily into the vines below. A brown female ran +along the branch a few seconds later and peered down +into the jungle where the first monkey had fallen. I +covered her carefully with the ivory head of the front +sight, pulled the trigger, and she pitched headlong off +the tree.</p> + +<p>For a few seconds there was silence, then a splash of +leaves and three huge black males leaped into full view +from the summit of a tall tree. They were silhouetted +against a patch of sky and I fired twice in quick succession +registering two clean misses. The bullets must +have whizzed too close for comfort and they faded instantly +into the forest like three black shadows.</p> + +<p>For ten minutes we strained our eyes into the dense +foliage hoping to catch a glimpse of a swaying branch. +Suddenly Yvette heard a rustling in the low tree beneath +which we were sitting and seized me violently by +the arm, screaming excitedly, "There's one, right above +us. Quick, quick, he's going!"</p> + +<p>I looked up and could hardly believe my eyes for not +twenty feet away hung a huge brown monkey half the +size of a man. Almost in a daze I fired with the shotgun. +The gibbon stopped, slowly pivoted on one long +arm and a pair of eyes blazing like living coals, stared +into mine. I fired again point blank as the huge mouth, +baring four ugly fangs, opened and emitted a blood-curdling +howl. The monkey slowly swung back again, +its arm relaxed and the animal fell at my feet, stone +dead.</p> + +<p>It was a magnificent old female. By a lucky chance +we had chosen, from all the trees in the forest, to sit +under the very one in which the gibbon had been hiding +and she had tried to steal away unnoticed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">- 288 -</span></p> + +<p>While my wife waited to direct me from the rim of +the gorge, I climbed down into the jungle to try and +make my way up the opposite side where the other +monkeys had fallen. It was dangerous work, for the +rocks were covered with a thin layer of earth which +supported a dense growth of vegetation. If I tried to +let myself down a steep slope by clinging to a thick fern +it would almost invariably strip away with a long layer +of dirt and send me headlong.</p> + +<p>After two bad falls I reached the bottom of the ravine +where a mountain torrent leaped and foamed over +the rocks and dropped in a beautiful cascade to a pool +fifty or sixty feet below. The climb up the opposite +side was more difficult than the descent and twice I had +to return after finding the way impassable.</p> + +<p>A sheer, clean wall almost seventy feet high separated +me from the spot where the gibbons had fallen. +I skirted the rock face and had laboriously worked my +way around and above it when a vine to which I had +been clinging stripped off and I began to slide. Faster +and faster I went, dragging a mass of ferns and creepers +with me, for everything I grasped gave way.</p> + +<p>I thought it was the end of things for me because I +was hardly ten feet above the precipice which fell away +to the jagged rocks of the stream bed in a drop of seventy +feet. The rifle slung to my back saved my life. +Suddenly it caught on a tiny ragged ledge and held me +flattened out against the cliff. But even then I was +far from safe, as I realized when I tried to twist about +to reach a rope of creepers which swung outward from +a bush above my head.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f288a" style="width: 361px;"> + <img src="images/img_f288a.png" width="361" height="288" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Suspension Bridge</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f288b" style="width: 355px;"> + <img src="images/img_f288b.png" width="355" height="287" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Mrs. Andrews Feeding One of Our Bear Cubs</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">- 289 -</span></p> + +<p>How I managed to crawl back to safety among the +trees I can remember only vaguely. I finally got down +to the bottom of the cañon, but felt weak and sick and +it was half an hour before I could climb up to the place +where my wife was waiting. She was already badly +frightened for she had not seen me since I left her an +hour before and, when I answered her call, she was +about to follow into the jungle where I had disappeared. +We left the two monkeys to be recovered from above +and went slowly back to camp.</p> + +<p>The gibbons of Ho-mu-shu are quite unlike those of +the Nam-ting River. They represent a well-known +species called the "hoolock" (<i>Hylobates hoolock</i>) which +is also found in Burma.</p> + +<p>The males, both old and young, are coal black with a +fringe of white hairs about the face, and the females are +light brown. Their note is totally unlike the Nam-ting +River gibbons and, instead of sitting quietly in the top +of a dead tree to call to their neighbors across the jungle +for an hour or two, the hoolocks howl for about twenty +minutes as they swing through the branches and are silent +during the remainder of the day. They called +most frequently on bright mornings and we seldom +heard them during cloudy weather.</p> + +<p>Apparently they had regular feeding grounds, which +were visited every day, but the herds seemed to cover +a great deal of territory. Like the gibbons of the Nam-ting +River, the hoolocks traveled through the tree tops +at almost unbelievable speed, and one of the most amazing +things which I have ever witnessed was the way in +which they could throw themselves from one tree to +another with unerring precision.</p> + +<p>On April 5, we received the first mail in nearly three +months and our share amounted to 105 letters besides +a great quantity of magazines. Wu had ridden to Teng-yueh +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">- 290 -</span> +for us and, as well as the greatly desired mail, had +a basket of delicious vegetables and a sheaf of Renter's +cablegrams which were kindly sent by Messrs. Palmer +and Abertsen, gentlemen in the employ of the Chinese +Customs, who had cared for our mail. Mr. Abertsen +also sent a note telling us of a good hunting ground +near Teng-yueh.</p> + +<p>We spent an entire afternoon and evening over our +letters and papers and, through them, began to get in +touch with the world again. It is strange how little one +misses the morning newspaper once one is beyond its +reach and has properly adjusted one's mental perspective. +And it is just as strange how essential it all seems +immediately one is again within reach of such adjuncts +of civilization.</p> + +<p>On April 6, we had the first rain for weeks. The water +fell in torrents, and the roar, as it drummed upon the +tent, was so incessant that we could barely hear each +other shout. Because of the long dry spell our camp +had not been made with reference to weather and during +the night I waked to find that we were in the middle +of a pond with fifteen inches of water in the tent. Shoes, +clothes, guns, and cameras were soaked, and the surface +of the water was only an inch below the bottoms of our +cots. This was the beginning of a ten days' rain after +which we had six weeks of as delightful weather as one +could wish.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">- 291 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXV">CHAPTER XXXV</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">TENG-YUEH; A LINK WITH CIVILIZATION</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">After</span> a week on the pass above Ho-mu-shu we +shifted camp to a village called Tai-ping-pu, ten miles +nearer Teng-yueh on the same road. The ride along +the summit of the mountain was a delight, for we passed +through grove after grove of rhododendrons in full +blossom. The trees were sometimes thirty feet in height +and the red flowers glowed like clusters of living coals +among their dark green leaves. In the northern part of +Yün-nan the rhododendrons grow above other timber +line on mountains where it is too high even for spruces.</p> + +<p>It rained continually during our stay at Tai-ping-pu. +I had another attack of the Salween malaria and for +five or six days could do little work. Heller, however, +made good use of his time and killed a beautiful horned +pheasant, Temminck's tragopan (<i>Ceriornis temmincki</i>), +besides half a dozen langurs of the same species as +those we had collected on the Nam-ting River. He also +was fortunate in shooting one of the huge flying squirrels +(<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>) which we had hoped to +get at Wei-hsi. He saw the animal in the upper branches +of a dead tree on the first evening we were in Tai-ping-pu +but was not able to get a shot. The next night he +watched the same spot and killed the squirrel with a +charge of "fours." It measured forty-two and one-quarter +inches from the nose to the end of the tail and was a +rich mahogany red grizzled with whitish above; the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">- 292 -</span> +underparts were cream white. As in all flying squirrels, +the four legs were connected by a sheet of skin +called the "patagium" which is continuous with the body. +This acts as a parachute and enables the animal to sail +from tree to tree for, of course, it cannot fly like a +bat As these huge squirrels are strictly nocturnal, they +are not often seen even by the natives. We were told +by the Lutzus on the Mekong River that by building +huge fires in the woods they could attract the animals +and shoot them with their crossbows.</p> + +<p>A few weeks later we purchased a live flying squirrel +from a native and kept it for several days in the hope +that it might become tame. The animal was exceedingly +savage and would grind its teeth angrily and spring at +anyone who approached its basket. It could not be +tempted to eat or drink and, as it was a valuable specimen, +we eventually chloroformed it.</p> + +<p>Just below our camp in a pretty little valley a half +dozen families of Lisos were living, and we hired the +men to hunt for us. They were good-natured fellows, +as all the natives of this tribe seem to be, and worked +well. One day they brought in a fine muntjac buck +which had been killed with their crossbows and poisoned +darts. The arrows were about twelve inches long, made +of bamboo and "feathered" with a triangular piece of +the same wood. Those for shooting birds and squirrels +were sharpened to a needle point, but the hunting darts +were tipped with steel or iron. The poison they extracted +from a plant, which I never saw, and it was said +that it takes effect very rapidly.</p> + +<p>The muntjac which the Lisos killed had been shot +in the side with a single arrow and they assured us that +only the flesh immediately surrounding the wound had +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">- 293 -</span> +been spoiled for food. These natives like the Mosos, +Lolos, and others carried their darts in a quiver made +from the leg skin of a black bear, and none of the men +wished to sell their weapons; I finally did obtain a +crossbow and quiver for six dollars (Mexican).</p> + +<p>Two days before we left Tai-ping-pu, three of the +Lisos guided my wife and me to a large cave where +they said there was a colony of bats. The cavern was +an hour's ride from camp, and proved to be in a difficult +and dangerous place in the side of a cliff just above +a swift mountain stream. We strung our gill net across +the entrance and then sent one of the natives inside to stir +up the animals while we caught them as they flew out. +In less than half an hour we had twenty-eight big brown +bats, but our fingers were cut and bleeding from the +vicious bites of their needle-like teeth. They all represented +a widely distributed species which we had already +obtained at Yün-nan Fu.</p> + +<p>From Lung-ling I had sent a runner to Mr. Evans +at Ta-li Fu asking him to forward to Teng-yueh the +specimens which we had left in his care, and the day +following our visit to the bat cave the caravan bearing +our cases passed us at Tai-ping-pu. We, ourselves, +were about ready to leave and two days later at ten +o'clock in the morning we stood on a precipitous mountain +summit, gazing down at the beautiful Teng-yueh +plain which lay before us like a relief map. It is as +flat as a plain well can be and, except where a dozen +or more villages cluster on bits of dry land, the valley +is one vast watery rice field. Far in the distance, outside +the gray city walls, we could see two temple-like +buildings surrounded by white-walled compounds, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">- 294 -</span> +Wu told us they were the houses of the Customs officials.</p> + +<p>Teng-yueh, although only given the rank of a "ting" +or second-class Chinese city, is one of the most important +places in the province, for it stands as the door +to India. All the trade of Burma and Yün-nan flows +back and forth through the gates of Teng-yueh, over +the great caravan road to Bhamo on the upper Irawadi.</p> + +<p>An important post of the Chinese Foreign Customs, +which are administered by the British government as +security for the Boxer indemnity, is situated in this +city, and we were looking forward with the greatest +interest to meeting its white population. At the time +of our visit the foreigners included Messrs. H. G. +Fletcher and Ralph C. Grierson, respectively Acting +Commissioner and Assistant Commissioner of Customs; +Messrs. W. R. Palmer and Abertsen, also of the Customs; +Mr. Eastes, H. B. M. Consul; Dr. Chang, Indian +Medical Officer, and Reverend and Mrs. Embry of the +China Inland Mission; Mr. Eastes, accompanied by the +resident mandarin, was absent on a three months' opium +inspection tour so that we did not meet him.</p> + +<p>We reached Teng-yueh on Sunday morning and +camped in a temple outside the city walls. Immediately +after tiffin we called upon Mr. Grierson and went with +him to the Customs House where Messrs. Abertsen and +Palmer were living. We found there a Scotch botanist, +Mr. Forrest, an old traveler in Yün-nan who +was <i>en route</i> to A-tun-tzu on a three-year plant-hunting +expedition for an English commercial firm. We had +heard much of Forrest from Messrs. Kok and Hanna +and were especially glad to meet him because of his +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">- 295 -</span> +wide knowledge of the northwestern part of the province. +Mr. Forrest was interested chiefly in primroses +and rhododendrons, I believe, and in former years obtained +a rather remarkable collection of these plants.</p> + +<p>From Mr. Grierson we first learned that the United +States had declared war on Germany. It had been announced +only a week before, and the information had +reached Teng-yueh by cable and telegraph almost immediately. +It came as welcome news to us Americans +who had been vainly endeavoring to justify to ourselves +and others our country's lethargy in the face of Teuton +insolence, and made us feel that once again we could +acknowledge our nationality with the pride we used +to feel.</p> + +<p>On Monday Mr. Grierson invited us to become his +guests and to move our caravan and belongings to his +beautiful home. We were charmed with it and our host. +The house was built with upturned, temple-like gables, +and from his cool verandah we could look across an +exquisite flower-filled garden to the blue mountains +from which we had had our first view of Teng-yueh +the day before. The interior of the dwelling was as +attractive as its surroundings, and the beautifully served +meals were as varied and dainty as one could have had +in the midst of a great city.</p> + +<p>Like all Britishers, the Customs men had carried their +sport with them. Just beyond the city walls an excellent +golf course had been laid out with Chinese graves as +bunkers, and there was a cement tennis court behind +the Commissioner's house. Mr. Grierson had two excellent +polo ponies, besides three trained pointer dogs, +and riding and shooting over the beautiful hills gave +him an almost ideal life. We found that Mr. Fletcher +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">- 296 -</span> +had a really remarkable selection of records and an excellent +Victrola. After dinner, as we listened to the +music, we had only to close our eyes and float back to +New York and the Metropolitan Opera House on the +divine harmony of the sextet from "Lucia" or Caruso's +matchless voice. But none of us wished to be there +in body for more than a fleeting visit at least, and the +music already brought with it a lingering sadness because +our days in the free, wild mountains of China +were drawing to a close.</p> + +<p>During the week we spent with Mr. Grierson we +dried and packed all our specimens in tin-lined boxes +which were purchased from the agent of the British +American Tobacco Company in Teng-yueh. They were +just the right size to carry on muleback and, after the +birds and mammals had been wrapped in cotton and +sprinkled with naphthalene, the cases were soldered and +made air tight. The most essential thing in sending +specimens of any kind through a moist, tropical climate +such as India is to have them perfectly dry before the +boxes are sealed; otherwise they will arrive at their +destination covered with mildew and absolutely ruined.</p> + +<p>On the day of our arrival in Teng-yueh we purchased +from a native two bear cubs (<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>) about a +week old. Each was coal black except for a V-shaped +white mark on the breast and a brown nose. When they +first came to us they were too young to eat and we fed +them diluted condensed milk from a spoon.</p> + +<p>The little chaps were as playful as kittens and the +story of their amusing ways as they grew older is a +book in itself. After a month one of the cubs died, +leaving great sorrow in the camp; the other not only +lived and flourished but traveled more than 16,000 miles.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">- 297 -</span></p> + +<p>He went with us on a pack mule to Bhamo, down the +Irawadi River to Rangoon, and across the Bay of Bengal +to Calcutta. He then visited many cities in India, +and at Bombay boarded the P. & O. S. S. <i>Namur</i> for +Hongkong and became the pet of the ship. From China +we took him to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, +and finally to our home at Lawrence Park, Bronxville, +New York. After an adventurous career as a house +pet, when his exploits had made him famous and ourselves +disliked by all the neighbors, we regretfully sent +him to the National Zoölogical Park, Washington, +D. C, where he is living happily at the present time. He +was the most delightful little pet we have ever owned +and, although now he is nearly a full grown bear, his +early life is perpetuated in motion pictures and we can +see him still as he came to us the first week. He might +well have been the model for the original "Teddy Bear" +for he was a round ball of fur, mostly head and ears +and sparkling little eyes.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">- 298 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVI">CHAPTER XXXVI</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">A BIG GAME PARADISE</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> months previous to our arrival, Mr. Abertsen +had discovered a splendid hunting ground near the village +of Hui-yao, about eighty <i>li</i> from Teng-yueh. He +had been shooting rabbits and pheasants and, while +passing through the village, the natives told him that +a large herd of <i>gnai-yang</i> or "wild goats" lived on the +side of a hill through which a branch of the Shweli River +had cut a deep gorge.</p> + +<p>Although Abertsen was decidedly skeptical as to the +accuracy of the report he spent two days hunting and +with his shotgun killed two gorals; moreover, he saw +twenty-five others. We examined the two skins and +realized at once that they represented a different species +from those of the Snow Mountain. Therefore, when +we left Teng-yueh our first camp was at Hui-yao.</p> + +<p>Heller and I started with four natives shortly after +daylight. We crossed a tumble-down wooden bridge +over the river at a narrow cañon where the sides were +straight walls of rock, and followed down the gorge for +about two miles. On the way Heller, who was in front, +saw two muntjac standing in the grass on an open +hillside, and shot the leader. The deer pitched headlong +but got to its feet in a few moments and struggled off +into the thick cover at the edge of the meadow. It had +disappeared before Heller reached the clearing but he +saw the second deer, a fine doe, standing on a rock. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">- 299 -</span> +Although his bullet passed through both lungs the animal +ran a quarter of a mile, and he finally discovered +her several hours later in the bushes beside the river.</p> + +<p>In a short time we reached an open hillside which +rose six or seven hundred feet above the river in a +steep slope; the opposite side was a sheer wall of rock +bordered on the rim by an open pine forest. We separated +at this point. Heller, with two natives, keeping +near the river, while I climbed up the hill to work along +the cliffs half way to the summit.</p> + +<p>In less than ten minutes Heller heard a loud snort +and, looking up, saw three gorals standing on a ledge +seventy-five yards above him. He fired twice but missed +and the animals disappeared around a corner of the +hill. A few hundred yards farther on he saw a single +old ram but his two shots apparently had no effect.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile I had continued along the hillside not far +from the summit for a mile or more without seeing an +animal. Fresh tracks were everywhere and well-cut +trails crossed and recrossed among the rocks and grass. +I had reached an impassable precipice and was returning +across a steep slope when seven gorals jumped out +of the grass where they had been lying asleep. I was +in a thick grove of pine trees and fired twice in quick +succession as the animals appeared through the branches, +but missed both times.</p> + +<p>I ran out from the trees but the gorals were then +nearly two hundred yards away. One big ram had left +the herd and was trotting along broadside on. I +aimed just in front of him and pulled the trigger as his +head appeared in the peep sight. He turned a beautiful +somersault and rolled over and over down the hill, finally +disappearing in the bushes at the edge of the water.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">- 300 -</span></p> + +<p>The other gorals had disappeared, but a few seconds +later I saw a small one slowly skirting the rocks on the +very summit of the hill. The first shot kicked the dirt +beside him, but the second broke his leg and he ran +behind a huge boulder. I rested the little Mannlicher +on the trunk of a tree, covering the edge of the rock +with the ivory head of the front sight and waited. I +was perfectly sure that the goral would try to steal +out, and in two or three minutes his head appeared. +I fired instantly, boring him through both shoulders, +and he rolled over and over stone dead lodging against +a rock not fifty yards from where we stood.</p> + +<p>The two natives were wild with excitement and, yelling +at the top of their lungs, ran up the hill like goats +to bring the animal down to me. It was a young male +in full summer coat, and with horns about two inches +long. Our pleasure was somewhat dampened, however, +when we went to recover the first goral for we +found that when it had landed in the grass at the edge +of the river it had either rolled or crawled into the water. +We searched along the bank for half a mile but without +success and returned to Hui-yao just in time for tiffin.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we shifted camp to a beautiful little +grove on the opposite side of the river behind the +hunting grounds. Heller, instead of going over with the +caravan, went back along the rim of the gorge in the +pine forest where he could look across the river to the +hill on which we had hunted in the morning. With his +field glasses he discovered five gorals in an open meadow, +and opened fire. It was long shooting but the animals +did not know which way to run, and he killed three of +the herd before they disappeared. Our first day had, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">- 301 -</span> +therefore, netted us one deer and four gorals which was +better than at any other camp we had had in China.</p> + +<p>We realized from the first day's work that Hui-yao +would prove to be a wonderful hunting ground, and the +two weeks we spent there justified all our hopes. At +other places the cover was so dense or the country so +rough that it was necessary to depend entirely upon +dogs and untrained natives, but here the animals were +on open hillsides where they could be still hunted with +success. Moreover, we had an opportunity to learn +something about the habits of the animals for we could +watch them with glasses from the opposite side of the +river when they were quite unconscious of our presence.</p> + +<p>There was only one day of our stay at Hui-yao that +we did not bring in one or more gorals and even after +we had obtained an unrivaled series, dozens were left. +Shooting the animals from across the river was rather +an unsportsmanlike way of hunting but it was a very +effective method of collecting the particular specimens +we needed for the Museum series. The distance was so +great that the gorals were unable to tell from where the +bullets were coming and almost any number of shots +might be had before the animals made for cover. It +became simply a case of long range target shooting at +seldom less than three hundred yards.</p> + +<p>Still hunting on the cliffs was quite a different matter, +however, and was as good sport as I have ever had. +The rocks and open meadow slopes were so precipitous +that there was very real danger every moment, for one +misstep would send a man rolling hundreds of feet to +the bottom where he would inevitably be killed.</p> + +<p>The gorals soon learned to lie motionless along the +sheerest cliffs or to hide in the rank grass, and it took +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">- 302 -</span> +close work to find them. I used most frequently to ride +from camp to the river, send back the horse by a <i>mafu</i>, +and work along the face of the rock wall with my two +native boys. Their eyesight was wonderful and they +often discovered gorals lying among the rocks when I +had missed them entirely with my powerful prism +binoculars. Their eyes had never been dimmed by +study and I suppose were as keen as those of primitive +man who possibly hunted gorals or their relatives thousands +of years ago over these same hills.</p> + +<p>There were many glorious hunts and it would be +wearisome were I to describe them all, but one afternoon +stands out in my memory above the others. It +was a brilliant day, and about four o'clock I rode away +from camp, across the rice fields and up the grassy valley +to the long sweep of open meadow on the rim of the +river gorge.</p> + +<p>Sending back the horse, "Achi," my native hunter, +and I crawled carefully to a jutting point of rocks and +lay face down to inspect the cliffs above and to the left. +With my glasses I scanned every inch of the gray wall, +but could not discover a sign of life. Glancing at Achi +I saw him gazing intently at the rock which I had just +examined, and in a moment he whispered excitedly +"<i>gnai-yang</i>." By putting both hands to the side of his +head he indicated that the animal was lying down, and +although he pointed with my rifle, it was full five minutes +before I could discover the goral flat upon his belly +against the cliff, with head stretched out, and fore legs +doubled beneath his body. He was sound asleep in +the sun and looked as though he might remain forever.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f302a" style="width: 365px;"> + <img src="images/img_f302a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Sambur Killed at Wa-tien</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f302b" style="width: 363px;"> + <img src="images/img_f302b.png" width="363" height="285" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Muntjac</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">- 303 -</span></p> + +<p>By signs Achi indicated that we were to climb up +above and circle around the cliff to a ragged promontory +which jutted into space within a hundred yards of +the animal. It was a good three quarters of an hour +before we peered cautiously between two rocks opposite +the ledge where the goral had been asleep. The +animal was gone. We looked at each other in blank +amazement and then began a survey of the ground +below.</p> + +<p>Halfway down the mountain-side Achi discovered the +ram feeding in an open meadow and we began at once +to make our way down the face of the cliff. It was +dangerous going, but we gained the meadow in safety +and worked cautiously up to a grassy ridge where the +goral had been standing. Again we crawled like snakes +among the rocks and again an empty slope of waving +grass met our eyes. The goral had disappeared, and +even Achi could not discover a sign of life upon the +meadow.</p> + +<p>With an exclamation of disgust I got to my feet and +looked around. Instantly there was a rattle of stones +and a huge goral leaped out of the grass thirty yards +away and dashed up the hill. I threw up my rifle and +shot hurriedly, chipping a bit of rock a foot behind the +animal. Swearing softly at my carelessness, I threw in +another shell, selected a spot in front of the ram, and +fired. The splendid animal sank in its tracks without +a quiver, shot through the base of the neck.</p> + +<p>I had just ejected the empty shell when Achi seized +me by the arm, whispering "<i>gnai-yang, gnai-yang, gnai-yang, +na, na, na, na</i>" and pointing to the cliffs two +hundred yards above us. I looked up just in time to +see another goral flash behind a rock on the very summit +of the ridge. An instant later he appeared again and +stopped broadside on with his noble head thrown up, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">- 304 -</span> +silhouetted against the sky. It was a perfect target +and, resting my rifle on a flat rock, I covered the animal +with the white bead and centered it in the rear +sight. As I touched the hair trigger and the roar of +the high-power shell crashed back from the face of the +cliff, the animal leaped with legs straight out, whirling +over and over down the meadow and bringing up +against a boulder not twenty yards from the first goral.</p> + +<p>That night as I walked over the hills in the cool dusk +I would not have changed my lot with any man on earth. +The breathless excitement of the stalk and the wild thrill +of exultation at the clean kill of two splendid rams were +still rioting in my veins. I came out of the valley and +across the rice fields to the blazing camp fire. Yvette +ran to the edge of the grove, her hands filled with wet +photographic negatives. "How many?" she called. +"Two," I answered, "and both big ones. How many +for you?" "Fourteen color plates," she sung back +happily, "and all good."</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">- 305 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVII">CHAPTER XXXVII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">SEROW AND SAMBUR</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had a delightful visit from Mr. Grierson during +our first week in camp. He rode out on Thursday afternoon +and remained until Sunday, bringing us mail, +war news, and fresh vegetables, and returning with +goral meat for all the foreigners in Teng-yueh. On the +afternoon of his visit I had killed three monkeys which +represented a different species from any we had obtained +before. They were the Indian baboon (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>) +and were probably like those of the Salween River at +Changlung.</p> + +<p>I found two great troupes of the monkeys running +along the opposite river bank. The first herd was climbing +up the almost perpendicular rock walls, swinging +on the bushes and sometimes almost disappearing in +the tufts of grass. I could not approach nearer than +one hundred and fifty yards and did some very bad +shooting at the little beasts, but a running monkey at +that distance is a pretty uncertain mark, and it requires +a much better shot than I am to register more hits than +misses. I did kill two, but both dropped into the river +and promptly sank, so that I gave it up.</p> + +<p>Less than a half mile farther on another and larger +troupe appeared among the boulders just at the water's +edge. Profiting by my experience, I kept out of sight +among the bushes and watched the animals play about +until one hopped to a rock and sat quietly for an instant. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">- 306 -</span> +I got six in this way, but we were able to recover only +three of them from the water.</p> + +<p>Heller shot three muntjac at Hui-yao, besides the +doe which he killed on the first day. One of the largest +bucks had a pair of beautiful antlers three and one half +inches long from the burr to the tip. The skin-covered +projections, or pedicels, of the frontal bone, from the +summits of which the antlers grow, measured two and +one-half inches from the skull to the burrs. Evidently +the muntjac are somewhat irregular in shedding for, although +they were all in full summer pelage, two already +had lost their antlers while the other had not. I can +think of no more delicious meat than the flesh of these +little deer and they seem to be as highly esteemed by +the English sportsmen of India as they are by the foreigners +of China.</p> + +<p>I did not see a muntjac while at Hui-yao, but was +fortunate in killing a splendid coal-black serow which +represents a subspecies new to science; although the +natives said that serow were known to occur in the thick +jungle on the south side of the river, none had been seen +for years. Heller and I had gone to this part of the +gorge to hunt for a troupe of monkeys which he had +located on the previous day. We had separated. Heller +keeping close to the water while I skirted the cliffs near +the summit not far from the road which led through the +pine forest.</p> + +<p>I was walking just under the rim of the gorge when +suddenly with a snort a large animal dashed out of a +thicket below and to the left. I caught a glimpse of a +great coal-black body and a pair of short curved horns +as the beast disappeared in a shallow gully, and realized +that it was a serow. A few seconds later it reappeared, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">- 307 -</span> +running directly away from me along the upper edge +of the gorge. I fired and the animal dropped, gave +a convulsive twist, rolled over, and plunged into the +cañon.</p> + +<p>As the serow disappeared we heard a chorus of excited +yells from below, and it was evident that some +natives near the water had seen it fall. I had slight hope +that they might have rescued it from the river, but my +heart was heavy as we worked along the cliff trying +to find a place where it was possible to descend. A +wood cutter whom we discovered a short distance away +guided us down a trail so steep that it seemed impossible +for a human being to walk along it, and in proof +I slid the last half of the way to the rocks at the river's +edge, narrowly escaping a broken neck.</p> + +<p>When we reached the stream it was only to find a +flat wall against which the water surged in a mass of +white foam, separating us from the place where the +serow had fallen. I tried to wade around the rock +but in two steps the water was above my waist. It was +evident that we would have to swim, and I began to +undress, inviting Achi and the wood cutter to follow; +the former refused, but the latter pulled off his few +clothes with considerable hesitation.</p> + +<p>It was a swim of only about forty feet around the +face of the cliff but the current was strong and it was +no easy matter to fight my way to the other side. After +I had climbed out upon the rocks I called to the wood +cutter to follow and he slipped into the water. Evidently +the current was more than he had bargained for and a +look of fear crossed his face, but he went manfully at it.</p> + +<p>He had almost reached the rock on which I was +standing with outstretched hand when his strength +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">- 308 -</span> +seemed suddenly to go and he cried out in terror. I +jumped into the water, hanging to the rocks with one +hand and letting my legs float out behind. The wood +cutter just managed to reach my big toe, to which he +clung as if it had in reality been the straw of the drowning +man and I dragged him up stream until, to my intense +relief, he could grasp the rocks.</p> + +<p>We picked our way among the boulders for a few +yards and suddenly came upon the serow lying partly +in the water. I felt like dancing with delight but the +sharp rocks were not conducive to any such demonstrations +and I merely yelled to Achi who understood from +the tone, if not from my words, that the animal was +safe.</p> + +<p>The men who had shouted when the animal fell over +the cliff were only fifty feet away, but they too were +separated from it by a wall of rock and surging water. +They said that there was an easier way up the cliff +than the one by which we had descended, and prepared +a line of tough vines, one end of which they let down to +us. We made it fast to the serow and I kept a second +vine rope in my hands, swimming beside the animal as +they dragged it to the other shore. It was landed safely +and the wood cutter was hauled over by the same means.</p> + +<p>I had intended to swim back for my clothes but discovered +that Achi had disappeared, taking my garments +and those of the wood cutter with him. He evidently +intended to meet us on the hilltop, but it left us in +the rather awkward predicament of making our way +through the thick brush with only the proverbial smile +and minus even the necktie.</p> + +<p>The men fastened together the serow's four legs, +slipped a pole beneath them and toiled up the steep +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">- 309 -</span> +slope preceded by a naked brown figure and followed +by a white one. The side of the gorge was covered with +vines and creepers, many of them thorny, and pushing +through them with no bodily protection was far from +comfortable.</p> + +<p>When we arrived at the road on the rim of the gorge +I was dismayed to find that Achi was not there with my +clothes. The wood cutter did not appear to be greatly +worried and indicated that we would find him farther +up the road. I walked on dubiously, expecting every +second to meet some person, and sure enough, a Chinese +woman suddenly appeared over a little hill. I dived +into the tall ferns beside the road, burrowing like a +rabbit, and from the frightened way in which she hurried +past, she must have thought she had seen one of her +ancestral spirits stalking abroad. We eventually found +the boy, and, decently dressed, I faced the world again +with confidence and happiness.</p> + +<p>On the way back to camp we saw a goral on the +cliffs across the river. It was high up and fully three +hundred and fifty yards away but, of course, quite unconscious +of our presence. My first two shots struck +close beside the animal, but at the third it rolled over +and over down the hill, lodging among the rocks just +above the river.</p> + +<p>Our entry into camp was triumphal, for fully half +the village acted as an escort to the serow, an animal +which few had ever seen. It was a female, and probably +weighed about two hundred and fifty pounds. The +mane was short and black and strikingly unlike the long +white manes of the Snow Mountain serows; the horns +were almost smooth. Getting this specimen was one of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">- 310 -</span> +the lucky chances which sometimes come to a sportsman, +for one might hunt for weeks in the same place without +ever seeing another serow, as the jungle is exceedingly +dense and the cliffs so steep that it is impossible to walk +except in a few spots. The animal had been feeding on +the new grass just at the edge of the heavy cover and +probably had been sleeping under a bush when she was +disturbed.</p> + +<p>Besides mammals and birds we made a fairly good +collection of reptiles and lizards at Hui-yao, but in all +other parts of the province which we visited they were +exceedingly scarce. In fact, I have never been in a +place where there were so few reptiles and batrachians. +We obtained only one species of poisonous snake here. +It was a small green viper which we sometimes saw +coiled on a low bush watching mouse holes in the grass. +Several species of nonpoisonous snakes were more common +but were nowhere really abundant.</p> + +<p>We left Hui-yao the day after I killed the serow for +a village called Wa-tien where there was a report of +sambur. None of us had any real hope of finding the +huge deer after our former unsuccessful hunts, but we +camped in the early afternoon on an open hilltop five +miles from Wa-tien where the natives assured us the +animals often came to eat the young rice during the +night.</p> + +<p>We engaged four men with three dogs as hunters, +but awoke to find a dense fog blanketing the valley and +mountains. It was not until half past nine that the gray +mist yielded to the sun and left the hills clear enough +for us to hunt. We climbed a wooded ridge directly +behind the camp and skirted the edge of a heavily forested +ravine which the men wished to drive.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">- 311 -</span></p> + +<p>Heller took a position in a bean field while I climbed +to a sharp ridge above and beyond him. In less than +half an hour the dogs began to yelp in an uncertain +way. I saw one of them running down hill, nose to +the ground, and a few seconds later Heller fired twice +in quick succession. Two sambur had skirted the edge +of the wood less than one hundred yards away, but he +had missed with both shots.</p> + +<p>The trail led into a deep ravine filled with dense +underbrush. In a few moments the dogs began to yelp +again and, while Heller remained on the hillside to watch +the open fields, I followed the hounds along the creek +bed. Suddenly the whiplike crack of his Savage 260-800 +rifle sounded five times in quick succession just above +our heads, and we climbed hurriedly out of the gorge.</p> + +<p>Heller shouted that he had fired at a huge sambur +running along the edge of a bean field but the animal +showed no sign of being hit. We easily picked up the +trail in the soft earth and in a few moments found +several drops of blood, showing that at least one bullet +had found its mark. The blood soon ceased and we +began to wonder if the sambur had not been merely +scratched.</p> + +<p>Heller had seen the deer disappear in a second ravine, +a branch of the one out of which it had first been driven, +and while he watched the upper side I worked my way +to the bottom to look for tracks. A few moments later +the natives began to shout excitedly just above me, and +Heller called out that they had found the deer, which +was lying stone dead half way down the side of the gorge +in a mass of thick ferns. The sambur had been hit only +once but the powerful Savage bullet had crashed +through the shoulder into the lungs; it was quite +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">- 312 -</span> +sufficient to do the work even on such a huge animal and +the deer had run less than one hundred yards from the +place where it had been shot.</p> + +<p>It was a splendid male, carrying a magnificent pair +of antlers which measured twenty-seven inches in length. +The deer was about the size of an American wapiti, or +elk, and must have weighed at least seven hundred +pounds, for it required eight men to lift it. The Chinese +hunters were wild with excitement, but especially so +when we began to eviscerate the animal, for they wished +to save the blood which is considered of great medicinal +value. They filled caps, sacks, bamboo joints, and every +receptacle which they could find after each man had +drunk all he could possibly force down his throat and +had eaten the huge clots which choked the thorax.</p> + +<p>When the sambur was brought to camp a regular +orgy was held by our servants, <i>mafus</i>, and dozens of +villagers who gathered to buy, beg, or steal some of the +blood. Our interpreter, Wu, took the heart as his perquisite, +carefully extracted the blood, and dried it in a +basin. The liver also seemed to be an especial desideratum, +and in fact every part of the viscera was saved +Because the antlers were hard they were not considered +of especial value, but had they been in the velvet we +should have had to guard them closely; then they would +have been worth about one hundred dollars (Mexican).</p> + +<p>We expected from our easy hunt of the morning that +it would not be difficult to get sambur, and indeed, +Heller did see another in the afternoon but failed to +kill it. Unfortunately, a relative of one of the hunters +died suddenly during the night and all the men went +off with their dogs to the burial feast which lasted several +days, and we were not able to find any other good +hounds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f312a" style="width: 366px;"> + <img src="images/img_f312a.png" width="366" height="279" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Mountain Chair</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" id="img_f312b" style="width: 363px;"> + <img src="images/img_f312b.png" width="363" height="283" alt="" /> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Waterfall at Teng-yueh</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">- 313 -</span></p> + +<p>There were undoubtedly several sambur in the vicinity +of our camp but they fed entirely during the +night and spent the day in such thick cover that it was +impossible to drive them out except with good beaters +or dogs. We hunted faithfully every morning and +afternoon but did not get another shot and, after a +week, moved camp to the base of a great mountain +range six miles away near a Liso village.</p> + +<p>The scenery in this region is magnificent. The mountain +range is the same on which we hunted at Ho-mu-shu +and reaches a height of 11,000 feet near Wa-tien. +It is wild and uninhabited, and the splendid forests +must shelter a good deal of game.</p> + +<p>The foothills on which we were camped are low wooded +ridges rising out of open cultivated valleys, which +often run into the jungle-filled ravines in which the +sambur sleep. Why the deer should occur in this particular +region and not in the neighboring country is a +mystery unless it is the proximity of the great forested +mountain range. But in similar places only a few miles +away, where there is an abundance of cover, the natives +said the animals had never been seen, and neither were +they known on the opposite side of the mountain range +where the Teng-yueh-Ta-li Fu road crosses the Salween +valley.</p> + +<p>On May 20, we started back to Hui-yao to spend three +or four days hunting monkeys before we returned to +Teng-yueh to pack our specimens and end the field +work of the Expedition. On the way my wife and I +became separated from the caravan but as we had one +of our servants for a guide we were not uneasy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">- 314 -</span></p> + +<p>The man was a lazy, stupid fellow named Le Ping-sang +(which we had changed to "Leaping Frog" because +he never did leap for any cause whatever), and +before long he had us hopelessly lost.</p> + +<p>It would appear easy enough to ask the way from +the natives, but the Chinese are so suspicious that they +often will intentionally misdirect a stranger. They do +not know what business the inquirer may have in the +village to which he wishes to go and therefore, just on +general principles, they send him off in the wrong direction.</p> + +<p>Apparently this is what happened to us, for a farmer +of whom we inquired the way directed us to a road +at nearly right angles to the one we should have taken, +and it was late in the afternoon before we finally found +the caravan.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">- 315 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVIII">CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2> +</div> + +<p class="caption3">LAST DAYS IN CHINA</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was of paramount importance to pack our specimens +before the beginning of the summer rains. They +might be expected to break in full violence any day +after June 1, and when they really began it would +be impossible to get our boxes to Bhamo, for virtually +all caravan travel ceases during the wet season. Therefore +our second stay at Hui-yao was short and we returned +to Teng-yueh on May 24, ending the active field +work of the Expedition exactly a year from the time +it began with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping +in Fukien Province.</p> + +<p>Mr. Grierson had kindly invited us again to become +his guests and no place ever seemed more delightful, +after our hot and dusty ride, than his beautiful garden +and cool, shady verandah where a dainty tea was served. +Our days in Teng-yueh were busy ones, for after the +specimens were packed and the boxes sealed it was necessary +to wrap them in waterproof covers; moreover, +the equipment had to be sorted and sold or discarded, +a caravan engaged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture +film developed. This was done in the spacious +dark room connected with Mr. Grierson's house +which offered a welcome change from the cramped quarters +of the tent which we had used for so many months.</p> + +<p>Much of the success of our motion film lay in the +fact that it was developed within a short time after +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">- 316 -</span> +exposure, for had we attempted to bring or send it to +Shanghai, the nearest city with facilities for doing such +work, it would inevitably have been ruined by the climatic +changes. Although cinematograph photography +requires an elaborate and expensive outfit and is a +source of endless work, nevertheless, the value of an +actual moving record of the life of such remote regions +is worth all the trouble it entails.</p> + +<p>The Paget natural color plates proved to be eminently +satisfactory and were among the most interesting +results of the expedition. The stereoscopic effects and +the faithful reproduction of the delicate atmospheric +shading in the photographs are remarkable. Although +the plates had been subjected to a variety of climatic +conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones +were exposed in Burma, a year and a half after their +manufacture, they showed no signs of deterioration even +when the ordinary negatives which we brought with us +from America had been ruined. The other photographs, +some of which are reproduced in this book, speak for +themselves.</p> + +<p>The entire collections of the Expedition were packed +in forty-one cases and included the following specimens:</p> + +<table summary="data"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">2,100</td> + <td class="tdl">mammals</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">800</td> + <td class="tdl">birds</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdl">reptiles and batrachians</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdl">skeletons and formalin preparations for + anatomical study</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + <td class="tdl">Paget natural color plates</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">500</td> + <td class="tdl">photographic negatives</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">10,000</td> + <td class="tdl">feet of motion-picture film.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Since the Expedition was organized primarily for +the study of the mammalian fauna and its distribution, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">- 317 -</span> +our efforts were directed very largely toward this +branch of science, and other specimens were gathered +only when conditions were especially favorable. I believe +that the mammal collection is the most extensive +ever taken from China by a single continuous expedition, +and a large percentage undoubtedly will prove to +represent species new to science. Our tents were pitched +in 108 different spots from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet +above sea level, and because of this range in altitudes, +the fauna represented by our specimens is remarkably +varied. Moreover, during our nine months in Yün-nan +we spent 115 days in the saddle, riding 2,000 miles on +horse or mule back, largely over small roads or trails +in little known parts of the province.</p> + +<p>In Teng-yueh we were entertained most hospitably +and the leisure hours were made delightful by golf, tennis, +riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a charming +host who placed himself, as well as his house and servants, +at our disposal, utter strangers though we were, +and we shall never forget his welcome.</p> + +<p>We decided to take four man-chairs to Bhamo because +of the rain which was expected every day, and +the coolies made us very comfortable upon our sleeping +bags which were swung between two bamboo poles and +covered with a strip of yellow oil-cloth. They were the +regulation Chinese "mountain schooner," at which we +had so often laughed, but they proved to be infinitely +more desirable than riding in the rain.</p> + +<p>With the forty-one cases of specimens we left Teng-yueh +on June 1, behind a caravan of thirty mules for the +eight-day journey to Bhamo on the outskirts of civilization. +Our chair-coolies were miserable specimens of +humanity. They were from S'suchuan Province and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">- 318 -</span> +were all unmarried which alone is almost a crime in +China. Every cent of money, earned by the hardest +sort of work, they spent in drinking, gambling, and +smoking opium. As Wu tersely put it "they make +how much—spend how much!"</p> + +<p>About every two hours they would deposit us unceremoniously +in the midst of a filthy village and disappear +into some dark den in spite of our remonstrances. +We would grumble and fume and finally, getting out +of our chairs, peer into the hole. In the half light we +would see them huddled on a "kang" over tiny yellow +flames sucking at their pipes. At tiffin each one would +stretch out under a tree with a stone for a pillow and +his broad straw hat propped up to screen him from the +wind. With infinite care he would extract a few black +grains from a dirty box, mix them with a little water, +and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium +bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then placing +it lovingly in the bowl of his pipe he would hold it against +the flame and draw in long breaths of the sickly-sweet +smoke. The men could work all day without food, but +opium was a prime necessity.</p> + +<p>It was almost impossible to start them in the morning +and it became my regular duty to make the rounds +of the filthy holes in which they slept, seize them by the +collars and drag them into the street. Force made the +only appeal to their deadened senses and we were +heartily sick of them before we reached Bhamo.</p> + +<p>The road to Bhamo is a gradual descent from five +thousand feet to almost sea level. Because of the fever +the valleys are largely inhabited by "Chinese Shans" +who differ in dress and customs from the Southern +Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were +tattooed and the women all wore the enormous cylindrical +turban which we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" id="map_i_sm" style="width: 638px;"> + <a href="images/map_i_lg.png"><img src="images/map_i_sm.png" width="638" height="632" alt="" /></a> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Map I:</span> The red line indicates the travels + of the Expedition<br /> + <span class="smaller">Click on image to view larger sized.</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">- 319 -</span></p> + +<p>At noon of the fifth day we crossed the Yün-nan +border into Burma. It is a beautiful spot where a foaming +mountain torrent rushes out of the jungle in a series +of picturesque cascades and loses itself in a living wall +of green. The stream is spanned by a splendid iron +bridge from which a fine wide road of crushed stone +leads all the way to Bhamo.</p> + +<p>What a difference between the country we were leaving +and the one we were about to enter! It is the +"deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On +the one side is China with her flooded roads and bridges +of rotting timber, the outward and visible signs of a +nation still living in the Middle Ages, fighting progress, +shackled by the iron doctrines of Confucius to the long +dead past. Across the river is English Burma, with +eyes turned forward, ever watchful of the welfare of +her people, her iron bridges and macadam roads representing +the very essence of modern thought and progress.</p> + +<p>With paternal care of her officials the British government +has provided <i>dâk</i> (mail) bungalows at the end +of each day's journey which are open to every foreign +traveler. They are comfortable little houses set on +piles. Each one has a spacious living room, with +a large teakwood table and inviting lounge chairs. In +a corner stands a cabinet of cutlery, china, and glass, +all clean and in perfect order. The two bedrooms are +provided with adjoining baths and a covered passageway +connects the kitchen with the house. All is ready +for the tired traveler, and a boy can be hired for a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">- 320 -</span> +trifling sum to make the punkah "punk." Such comforts +can only be appreciated when one has journeyed for +months in a country where they do not exist.</p> + +<p>Our last night on the road was spent at a <i>dâk</i> bungalow +near a village only a few miles from Bhamo. We +were seated at the window, when, with a rattle of wheels, +the first cart we had seen in nine months passed by. +That cart brought to us more forcibly than any other +thing a realization that the Expedition was ended and +that we were standing on the threshold of civilization.</p> + +<p>As Yvette turned from the window her eyes were +wet with unshed tears, and a lump had risen in my +throat. Not all the pleasures of the city, the love of +friends or relatives, could make us wish to end the wild, +free life of the year gone by. Silently we left the house +and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of graceful, +drooping palms; a white pagoda gleamed between +the trees, and the pungent odor of wood smoke filled +the air.</p> + +<p>The spot was redolent with the atmosphere of the lazy +East; the East which, like the fabled "Lorelei," weaves +a mystic spell about the wanderer whom she has loved +and taken to her heart, while yet he feels it not. And +when he would cast her off and return to his own again +she knows full well that her subtle charm will bring +him back once more.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>The next morning we entered Bhamo. It is a city of +low, cool houses, wide lawns and tree-decked streets +built on the bank of the muddy Irawadi River. Only +a few miles away the railroad reaches Katha, and palatial +steamers run to Mandalay and Rangoon. We +called upon Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner, +who offered the hospitality of the "Circuit House" and +in the evening took us with him to the Club.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" id="map_ii_sm" style="width: 571px;"> + <a href="images/map_ii_lg.png"><img src="images/map_ii_sm.png" width="571" height="637" alt="" /></a> + <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Map II:</span> Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan<br /> + <span class="smaller">Click on image to view larger sized.</span></div> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">- 321 -</span></p> + +<p>A military band was playing and men in white, well-dressed +women, and officers in uniform strolled about or +sipped iced drinks beside the tennis court. We felt +strange and shy but doubtless we seemed more strange +to them for we were newly come from a far country +which they saw only as a mystic, unknown land.</p> + +<p>On June 9, at noon, we embarked for the 1,200-mile +journey to Rangoon, exactly nine months after +we had ridden away from Yün-nan Fu toward the +Mountain of Eternal Snow. Our further travels need +not be related here. When we reached civilization we +expected that our transport difficulties were ended; instead +they had only begun. India was well-nigh isolated +from the Pacific and to expose our valuable collection +to the attacks of German pirates in the Mediterranean +and Atlantic was not to be considered even +though it necessitated traveling two thirds around the +world to reach America safely.</p> + +<p>We left Rangoon for Calcutta, crossed India with +all our baggage to Bombay, and after a seemingly endless +wait eventually succeeded in arriving at Hongkong +by way of Singapore. There we separated from our +faithful Wu and sent him to his home in Foochow. It +was hard to say "good-by" to Wu, for his efficient service, +his enthusiastic interest in the work of the Expedition, +and, above all, his willingness to do whatever needed +to be done, had won our gratitude and affection. We +ourselves went northward to Japan, across the Pacific +to Vancouver, and overland to New York, arriving on +October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months from the time +we left. We were never separated from our collections +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">- 322 -</span> +for, had we left them, I doubt if they would ever have +reached America. It was difficult enough to gather +them in the field, but infinitely more so to guide the +forty-one cases through the tangled shipping net of a +war-mad world.</p> + +<p>They reached New York without the loss of a single +specimen and are now being prepared in the American +Museum of Natural History for the study which will +place the scientific results of the Asiatic Zoölogical +Expedition before the public.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>The story of our travels is at an end. Once more +we are indefinable units in a vast work-a-day world, +bound by the iron chains of convention to the customs +of civilized men and things. The glorious days in our +beloved East are gone, and yet, to us, the Orient seems +not far away, for the miles of land and water can be +traversed in a thought. Again we stand before our +tent with the fragrant breath of the pines about us, +watching the glistening peaks of the Snow Mountain +turn purple and gold in the setting sun; again, we feel +the mystic spell of the jungle, or hear the low, sweet +tones of a gibbon's call. We have only to shut our eyes +to bring back a picture of the bleak barriers of the Forbidden +Land or the sunlit streets of a Burma village. +Thank God, we saw it all together and such blessed +memories can never die.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">- 323 -</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> +</div> + + +<p> +Abercrombie & Fitch Co., <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br /> +Abertsen, Mr., Chinese Customs, employee of, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovered hunting ground near Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed two gorals, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></span><br /> +Africa, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Akeley, Carl E., <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br /> +Alaska, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Allen, Dr. J. A., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +American flags, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br /> +American Legation, Peking, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +American Museum Journal, <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a><br /> +American Museum of Natural History, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trustees of, specimens being prepared at, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br /> +Americans, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +Ammunition, loss of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +Amoy, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<i>Anas boscas</i> (Mallard ducks), <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Anglo-Chinese College, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Animal life, lack of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br /> +Annamits, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> +Antlers, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a><br /> +Ape, gray (<i>Pygathrix</i>), <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br /> +<i>Apodemus</i> (white-footed mouse), <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +Asia, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +<i>Asia</i> Magazine, quoted from, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br /> +Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">members of, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span><br /> +Assam, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> +Assistants, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +A-tun-tzu, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +<br /> +Babies, killing and selling of, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> +Baboon, brown (<i>Macacus</i>), <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br /> +Baboon, Indian (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>), <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br /> +Bamboo chickens, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> +Bandits, attack of, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +Bankhardt, Mr., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br /> +Bat apartment house, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +Bat cave, description of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">experience of girl in, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br /> +Bats, method of killing, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +Batrachians, <a href="#Page_310">310</a><br /> +Bear cubs (<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>), purchased at Teng-yueh, <a href="#Page_296">296</a><br /> +Bedding, <a href="#Page_93">93</a><br /> +Berger, Anna Katherine, acknowledgment to, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +Bering Strait, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Betel nut, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br /> +Bhamo, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railroad from, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></span><br /> +Big Ravine, description of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">temples near, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +Birds, game, <a href="#Page_90">90</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">- 324 -</span> +<i>Blarina</i>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +Boat, Chinese, eye on, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +Bode, Mr., <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br /> +Bohea Hills, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +Bound feet, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br /> +Bowdoin, George, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Bradley, Dr., <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">established leper hospital at Paik-hoi, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br /> +Brahmin priests, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Brahminy docks, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></span><br /> +Bridge, suspension, description of, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br /> +Bridges, rope, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +Brigand, seal of a pardoned, <a href="#Page_210">210</a><br /> +Brigandage, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a><br /> +Brigands, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beheading of, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">infest Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></span><br /> +British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +British East Africa, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Brooke, Englishman, killed by Lolos, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +Buffaloes, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></span><br /> +Bui-tao, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br /> +Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Director of, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Burial, expenses of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br /> +Burma, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">border of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">girls of, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals caught near, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">frontier of, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boundary of, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></span><br /> +Burmans, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> +<br /> +Calcutta, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">house of, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stationed at Futsing, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tiger hunting, method of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">obtains serows at Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">purchases serow skins in Fukien, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br /> +California, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> +<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br /> +Camera equipment, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, General Passenger Agent of, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +Cantonese, chiefly of Shan stock, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br /> +<i>Capricornulus crispus</i>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +<i>Capricornis sumatrensis</i>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +<i>Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes</i>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +<i>Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi</i>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +Caravan, robbing of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>; buying of, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>; renting of, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br /> +Caravan ponies, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br /> +Caravans, distance traveled by, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br /> +Cary, F. W., Commissioner of Customs, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br /> +<i>Casarca casarca</i> (ruddy sheldrake), <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Caverns, <a href="#Page_162">162</a><br /> +Central Asia, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Central Asian plateau, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +<i>Cervus macneilli</i>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br /> +Chair-coolies, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">- 325 -</span> +Chairs, description of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br /> +Chang, Dr., <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Chang-hu-fan, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>; night at, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br /> +Changlung, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ferry at, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a></span><br /> +Chien-chuan, <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br /> +Chi-li, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> +China, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">aboriginal inhabitants of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">press, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inland mission, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br /> +Chinaman, Cantonese, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br /> +Chinese, Republic, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">army of, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">face saving, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Foreign Office, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">screaming, habit of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lack of sympathy of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">not affected by sun, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">love of companionship, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bride of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wedding of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dress of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, meeting with, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">education of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages, description of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">etiquette of, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">New Year, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting debts of, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></span><br /> +Chipmunk (<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i>), <a href="#Page_230">230</a><br /> +Chi-yuen-kang, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> +Chou Chou, <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br /> +Christians, native, persecution of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br /> +Christianity, lesson in, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> +Christmas, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">celebration of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></span><br /> +Chu-hsuing Fu, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br /> +Chung-tien, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><br /> +Civet (<i>Viverra</i>), <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br /> +Clive, Captain, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br /> +Clothing, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +Colgate, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Collecting case, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +Color plates, <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> +Confucius, rules of, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +Cook, difficulty in obtaining, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span><br /> +Coolies, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> +Cormorants, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br /> +Corn, <a href="#Page_91">91</a><br /> +Cows, used as burden-bearers by Chinese, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br /> +Cranes, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>; habits of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br /> +Crossbows, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br /> +Cui-kau, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Da-Da, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> +Daing-nei, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<i>Dâk</i> (mail) bungalows, <a href="#Page_319">319</a><br /> +Da-Ming, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br /> +Darjeeling, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +Davies, Major H. R., <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quoted, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></span><br /> +Dead, burying of, <a href="#Page_151">151</a><br /> +Deer, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a><br /> +Deer, barking, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +Denby, Hon. Charles, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +Dennet, Tyler, quoted, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br /> +D'Ollone, Major, member French Expedition, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +D'Orleans, Prince Henri, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Dog, red, death of, <a href="#Page_135">135</a><br /> +Dogs, description of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">for food, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></span><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">- 326 -</span> +Doumer, M., Governor-General of French Indo-China, <a href="#Page_93">93</a><br /> +Duai Uong, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br /> +Ducks, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brahminy, shooting off 199</span><br /> +Dupontès, Georges Chemin, assistance of, to expedition, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +<br /> +Eastes, Mr., Consul, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Education, foreign, <a href="#Page_71">71</a><br /> +<i>Elaphodus</i>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> +Elephants, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +Elk, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Ellsworth, Lincoln, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Embry, Rev. and Mrs., China Inland Mission, members of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Empress Dowager, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">issued edict prohibiting opium growing, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></span><br /> +Equipment, purchase of, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +Etiquette, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> +Europe, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +European war, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> +Evans, H. G., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assistance of, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></span><br /> +Expedition, announcement of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">applicants for positions on, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">results of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></span><br /> +Expeditions, preliminary, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> +Eye on Chinese boat, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Farmer, Mr., <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br /> +Fauna, mammalian, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br /> +<i>Felis temmincki</i>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> +<i>Felis uncia</i>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> +Ferry, <a href="#Page_160">160</a><br /> +Fletcher, H. G., <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a><br /> +Flying squirrel, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a><br /> +Foochow, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign residents of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">streets of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mail from, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schools for native girls at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woman's college at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br /> +Food box, <a href="#Page_74">74</a><br /> +Foot binding, origin of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">method of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Natural Foot Society of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">agitation against, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br /> +Forbidden City, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br /> +Ford, James B., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Foreign Office, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +Forest conservation, lack of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a><br /> +Formosa, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +Forrest, Mr., <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Fossil animals, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beds, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></span><br /> +Francolins, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> +French Consul, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> +Frick, Childs, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Frick, Henry C, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Fukien Province, China, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">deforestation of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals of, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate and temperature of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting in summer at, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">herpetology of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trapping for small mammals at, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogical study of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">travel in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">servants in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">serows hunted in, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">missionary work in, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br /> +Funeral customs, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">- 327 -</span> +Futsing, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blue tiger hunting at, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Galapagos Islands, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +<i>Gallus gallus</i>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br /> +<i>Gallus lafayetti</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br /> +<i>Gallus sonnerati</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br /> +<i>Gallus varius</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br /> +Gamblers, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +Geese, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br /> +Gen-kang, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> +Gibbon (<i>Hylobates</i>), <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_285">285</a></span><br /> +Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, <a href="#Page_270">270</a><br /> +Goitre, prevalence of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> +Gorals, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first hunt for, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ceremonies at death of, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting for groups, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">color of, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">invisibility of, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horns of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">distribution of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fighting of, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feet of, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, at Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></span><br /> +Great Invisible, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> +Grierson, Ralph C, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br /> +<i>Grus communis</i>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br /> +<i>Grus nigricollis</i>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br /> +<br /> +Habala, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>; hunting at, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a><br /> +Haendel-Mazzetti, Baron, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br /> +Hainan, description of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fauna of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span><br /> +Haiphong, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span><br /> +Hanna, Rev. William J., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Hanoi, description of, <a href="#Page_x">x</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<i>Harper's Magazine</i>, <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a><br /> +Hartford, Mabel, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br /> +Heller, Edmund, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></span><br /> +Himalaya Mountains, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Hoi-hau, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br /> +Homes, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +Ho-mu-shu, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys found near, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br /> +Hongkong, purchase of supplies at, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Hoolock (<i>Hylobates hoolock</i>), <a href="#Page_289">289</a><br /> +Hornbill, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a><br /> +Horses, size of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br /> +Hospital attendants, <a href="#Page_38">38</a><br /> +Hotenfa, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> +Hsia-kuan, description of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reptiles and lizards found at, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></span><br /> +Hunan, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a><br /> +Hung-Hsien, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +Hunters, <a href="#Page_114">114</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">- 328 -</span> +Hutchins, Commander Thomas, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br /> +Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br /> +<i>Hylobates</i>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a><br /> +<i>Hylomys</i>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br /> +<i>Hystrix</i>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> +<br /> +India, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Inns, <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +Irawadi River, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br /> +<br /> +Japan, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> +Japanese newspaper reporters, <a href="#Page_6">6</a><br /> +Joline, Mrs. Adrian Hoffman, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Jungle fowl, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Kachins, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">women, appearance of, <a href="#Page_241">241</a></span><br /> +Katha, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br /> +Kellogg, C. R., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +Kok, Rev. and Mrs. A., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pentecostal missionary, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assistance of, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></span><br /> +Koko-nor, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Koo, Wellington, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +Korea, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pheasants found in, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></span><br /> +Kraemer, M., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +Kucheng, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br /> +Kwang-si, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +Kwei-chau Province, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br /> +<br /> +Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br /> +Lang, Herbert, photograph of serow loaned by, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +Languages and dialects, number of, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reason for, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></span><br /> +Langur, <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br /> +Langurs (<i>Pygathrix</i>), <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> +Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +Lapwings, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +Las, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> +Lashio, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br /> +Legge, Prof. J., quoted, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> +Leopards, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +Leper hospital, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> +<i>Li</i>, length of, <a href="#Page_84">84</a><br /> +Li-chiang, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">animal life on route to, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp in, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting in, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals of, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">important fur market at, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inhabitants of, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a></span><br /> +Li-Hung Chang, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> +Ling-suik, monastery of, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">priests at, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting at, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span><br /> +Lisos, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br /> +Livingstone, H. W., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br /> +Loads, weight of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> +Lolos, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">depredations of, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">independence of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dress of, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capes worn by, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></span><br /> +London Zoölogical Society's Garden, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +Long Ravine, blue tiger seen at, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> +Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgement to, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">- 329 -</span> +Lui, Mr., salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br /> +Lung-ling, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Lung-tao, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +Lutzus, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br /> +<br /> +McMurray, J. V. A., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +<i>Macacus rhesus</i>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a><br /> +<i>Mafus</i>, description of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a><br /> +Mail, <a href="#Page_290">290</a><br /> +Malaria, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br /> +Malay Peninsula, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> +Ma-li-ling, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a><br /> +Ma-li-pa, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poppy fields at, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></span><br /> +Mallard ducks, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +Mammals, small, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>mportance of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preparing of, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></span><br /> +Man, primitive, migrations of, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Man-eater, killing of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br /> +Mandalay, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br /> +Mandarins, relations with, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a><br /> +Ma-po-lo, low valley at, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">game at, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fog in, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></span><br /> +Marco Polo, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br /> +Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +Meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>), <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a><br /> +Mekong, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br /> +Mekong river, description of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br /> +Mekong-Salween divide, <a href="#Page_190">190</a><br /> +Mekong valley, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vegetables in, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogy of, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></span><br /> +Meng-ting, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mandarin of, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buddhist monastery at, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">market at, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cantonese visit and buy opium at, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fog at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">valley at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a></span><br /> +Mergansers, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Methodist mission, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><br /> +Mexico, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Miao village, <a href="#Page_273">273</a><br /> +Mice, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<i>Micromys</i>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br /> +<i>Microtus</i>, meadow vole, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br /> +Min River, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">life on, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></span><br /> +Mission hospital, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">China Inland, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br /> +Missionaries, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">servants of, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives trading with, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">civilizing influence of, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></span><br /> +Mohammedan Chinese, married to a Shan, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br /> +Mohammedan hunter, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br /> +Mohammedan war, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> +Mole, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +Molloy, Agnes F., acknowledgment to, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br /> +Money, carrying of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transmitting of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></span><br /> +Monkey, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> +Monkey temple, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> +Moose, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Morgan, Cordelia, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">- 330 -</span> +Mosos, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capes worn by, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></span><br /> +Motion pictures, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">developing of, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></span><br /> +Mountain goat, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +"Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, <a href="#Page_147">147</a><br /> +Mouse (<i>Micromys</i>), <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br /> +Moving picture film, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br /> +Mu-cheng, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br /> +Muntjac, description of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br /> +Museum authorities, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +Mustelidæ, <a href="#Page_250">250</a><br /> +Myitkyina district, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Næmorhedus griseus</i>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +Nam-ka, Shans at, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp at, <a href="#Page_264">264</a></span><br /> +Nam-ting River, ferry at, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camping at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunters at, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp on, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">polecat trapped at, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys, hunting at, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hornbill, seen at, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys found at, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shans seen at, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caravan crossed, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br /> +<i>Namur</i>, S. S., <a href="#Page_297">297</a><br /> +Natives, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inaccuracy of, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></span><br /> +New York, return to, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Ngu-cheng, <a href="#Page_205">205</a><br /> +Non-Chinese tribes, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> +North America, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Northern soldiers, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br /> +Northern troops, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br /> +<br /> +Opium, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">growing of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inspection of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scandal, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smuggling of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smoking of, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br /> +Osborn, Henry Fairfield, quoted, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a><br /> +<br /> +Pack saddle, description of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br /> +Pack, weight of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br /> +Page, Howard, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a><br /> +Paget color plates, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br /> +Pagoda Anchorage, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +Paik-hoi, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leper hospital at, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br /> +Palaungs, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> +Palmer, Mr., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br /> +Pandas, coats of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br /> +Pangolin, scales of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br /> +Parrots, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> +Partridges, bamboo, <a href="#Page_245">245</a><br /> +Passports, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +<i>Pavo cristatus</i>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br /> +<i>Pavo munticus</i>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br /> +Peacock, black-shouldered, <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br /> +Peacock, hunting of, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eggs of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">domestication of, <a href="#Page_278">278</a></span><br /> +Peacock, Indian, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br /> +Peafowl, killed on Salween River, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flesh of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br /> +Peking, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br /> +Phasianidæ, <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br /> +Pheasants, shooting of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Amherst's, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">silver, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horned, <a href="#Page_291">291</a></span><br /> +Phete, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>; country about, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;<br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">- 331 -</span> +Photographic work, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br /> +Photographs in natural colors, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Photography, cinematograph, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br /> +Pigeons, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br /> +Pigs, killing of, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wild, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treatment of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br /> +Pin-toil, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +Pleistocene, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Pocock, Mr., <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +Polecat, <a href="#Page_250">250</a><br /> +Polo, Marco, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quoted, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></span><br /> +Poppy blossoms, <a href="#Page_265">265</a><br /> +Poppy fields, <a href="#Page_91">91</a><br /> +Porcupine, description of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a><br /> +Portable dark room, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br /> +Prjevalsky, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +P'u-erh, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +<i>Pygathrix</i> (monkeys), <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> +<br /> +Railroad, Hanoi to Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br /> +Rain, last of the season, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br /> +Rainey, Paul J., <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Rangoon, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +<i>Ratufa gigantea</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br /> +Rebellion of 1918, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> +Reinsch, Hon. Paul, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +Republic, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +Rhododendrons, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br /> +Rice, <a href="#Page_168">168</a><br /> +Rice fields, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br /> +Rifle, Mannlicher, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savage, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winchester, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span><br /> +Riot in Shanghai, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br /> +Roads, descriptions of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a><br /> +Rocky Mountain sheep, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br /> +Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +<i>Rupicapra</i>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +Rupicaprine antelopes, horns of, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +<br /> +Salt, preparation of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br /> +Salween River, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heat of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></span><br /> +Sambur, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blood of, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></span><br /> +Sammons, Mr., American Consul-General, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br /> +Sampans, first night in, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br /> +San Francisco, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> +Scandinavian steamer, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +Schools for native girls, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +Sclater, Mr., <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br /> +Screaming, Chinese habit of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +Sedan chairs, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +Serows, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunt for, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting for, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">color variation of, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Japanese, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">difference from gorals, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horns of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">relationship of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">appearance of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed on Snow Mountain, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">distribution of, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of at Hoi-yao, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></span><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">- 332 -</span> +Servants, wages of, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br /> +Shanghai, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">riot in, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></span><br /> +Shans, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of village of, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">houses of, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heavily tattooed, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribes of, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br /> +Sheldrakes, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> +Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to Expedition by, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br /> +Shia-chai, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br /> +Shih-tien, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bird life at, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives, curiosity of, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></span><br /> +Shih-ku ferry, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br /> +Shoverling, Daly & Gales, ammunition, guns, tents, furnished by, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Shrew, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br /> +Shweli River, <a href="#Page_145">145</a><br /> +Singapore, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Slave raiding, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +Smith, Arthur H., quoted, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +Snow Mountain, camp at, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">traveling to, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of hunters at, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammalogy of, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp on slopes of, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals collected at, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">serows killed on, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></span><br /> +Soldiers, guard of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guns of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">expense of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">use of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treatment by natives of, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fight with, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extortions of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br /> +South America, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Specimens, packing of, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br /> +Squirrel, flying (<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>), <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Ratufa gigantea</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">red-bellied (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i>), <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a></span><br /> +S'suchuan Province, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +S'su-mao, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +Standard Oil Co., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">launch of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></span><br /> +Su Ek, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br /> +Sun-birds, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> +<i>Sung-kiang</i>, S. S., <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> +<br /> +Tablets, ancestral, description of, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +Tai-ping-pu, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a><br /> +Taku, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br /> +Taku ferry, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br /> +Ta-li Fu, soldiers guard to, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">graves at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lake at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mandarin at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pagodas at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></span><br /> +Ta-li Fu Lake, description of, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> +<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br /> +Taoist temple, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> +Tao-tai, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br /> +Tartars, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +Temple, camp in, <a href="#Page_86">86</a><br /> +Teng-yueh, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></span><br /> +Tents, <a href="#Page_74">74</a><br /> +<i>Tenyo Maru</i>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +Thompson, Dr., <a href="#Page_205">205</a><br /> +Tibet, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monopoly of gold in, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br /> +Tibetan plateaus, <a href="#Page_191">191</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">- 333 -</span> +Tibetans, description of, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">photographing of, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dislike for strangers of, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">influence of Chinese on, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></span><br /> +Tiger, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">man-eating, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lairs of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stalking a goat, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">daring of, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">strength of, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">excitement of hunting, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blood of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skins in temples of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">food of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting in lair of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flesh and bones of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">marking trees by, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skins of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span><br /> +Tiger, blue, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trying to trap, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></span><br /> +Tonking, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +Tragopan, Temminck's, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br /> +Transportation, difficulties of, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br /> +Trapping, methods of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +Traps, steel, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">method of setting, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></span><br /> +Trees, marking of, by tiger, <a href="#Page_52">52</a><br /> +Tribes, non-Chinese, description of, <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br /> +Trimble, Dr., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">house of, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br /> +Trowbridge, Captain Harry, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +Tsai-ao, General, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +<i>Tsamba</i>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br /> +Ts'ang mountains, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +Tsinan-fu, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br /> +<i>Tupaia belangeri chinensis</i>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br /> +<br /> +United States, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br /> +Universal Camera, <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br /> +<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a><br /> +<br /> +Vegetarians, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +<i>Viverra</i>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br /> +Viverridæ, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br /> +Vochang, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br /> +Vole, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br /> +Von Hintze, Admiral, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +<br /> +Wapiti, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br /> +War, Mohammedan, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> +Was, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> +Waterhole, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> +Wa-tien, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a><br /> +Wei-hsi, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a><br /> +White Water, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp at, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weather at, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></span><br /> +Wild boar, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> +Wilden, Henry M., French Consul, <a href="#Page_82">82</a><br /> +Wolves, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> +Woman's college at Foochow, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +Women, position of, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>n China, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +Worship, ancestor, <a href="#Page_156">156</a><br /> +Wu Hung-tao, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>nterpreter, <a href="#Page_x">x</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<i>Yamen</i>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> +Yangtze River, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crossing of, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">barrier to mammals, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a></span><br /> +Yangtze gorge, description of, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a><br /> + +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">- 334 -</span> +Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">residence of Mr. Caldwell at, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Methodist Mission at, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trapping at, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rebellion in, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">refugees from, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fighting in, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attacked by rebels in, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wounded in, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schools for native girls at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chinese wedding at, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">missionary buildings of, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br /> +Yokohama, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> +Yuan, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br /> +Yuan Shi-kai, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death of, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span><br /> +Yuchi, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brigands at, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></span><br /> +Yung-chang, Chinese New Year at, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water buffaloes at, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">battle at, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></span><br /> +Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road, <a href="#Page_282">282</a><br /> +Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">size of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">topography of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boundaries of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fauna of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">infested with brigands, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogical study of, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meaning of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summer climate of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span><br /> +Yün-nan Fu, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>;<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign residents of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign office at, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Thompson's hospital at, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Zoölogical Garden, Berlin, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +Zoölogical Park, Calcutta, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<div class="transnote"> + +<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p> + +<p>Minor typos corrected. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most +frequently utilized version. Text was rearranged to avoid splitting by +images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy seem to both apply to the same +River and valley. Both names retained.</p> + +</div> + + + + + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12296 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |