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diff --git a/12236-h/12236-h.htm b/12236-h/12236-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b86f63 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/12236-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,16851 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of DEATH VALLEY IN '49, by William Lewis Manly</title> +<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg"> +<style type="text/css"> + +P { text-align: justify; margin-right: 80px; margin-left: 80px } + +</style> +</head> + +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12236 ***</div> + +<p>[Transcriber's Note: Several variant spellings of, for example, +"medecine" and "Mormon", have been retained from the original.]</p> + + <div align=center> + <hr> + <h3><u>INDEX OF CHAPTERS</u></h3> + <table width="381" border="1" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="0"> + <tr> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-38985">I.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-43074">II.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="41" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-24444">III.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-16153">IV.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-14349">V.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-57841">VI.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-44899">VII.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-34642">VIII.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-12684">IX.</a></div> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-1376">X.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-1554">XI.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="41" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-4887">XII.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-47487">XIII.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-42598">XIV.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-37990">XV.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-27012">XVI.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"> + <a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-54752">XVII.</a></div> + </td> + <td width="40" height="30"> + <div align="center"></div> + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <br> + <br> + <h3><u>INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS</u></h3> + <a href="#Anchor-24201">Leaving Death Valley—The Manly Party on the March After Leaving Their Wagons.<br> + <br> + </a><a href="#Anchor-43659">The Oxen Get Frisky.<br> + <br> + </a><a href="#Anchor-8071">Pulling the Oxen Down the Precipice.</a> + <br> + <br> + <br> + <hr> + <br> + <img height=688 alt="" src="images/frontispiece.png" width=500 border=0> + <hr> + <br> + <br> + <h1>DEATH VALLEY<br> + <br> + IN '49.</h1> + <br> + _____________________<br> + <br> + <font size="2">IMPORTANT CHAPTER OF</font><br> + <font size="5">California Pioneer History.</font><br> + _____________________ + <br> + <br> + <font size="2">—THE—<br> + <br> + AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A PIONEER, DETAILING HIS LIFE FROM A<br> + HUMBLE HOME IN THE GREEN MOUNTAINS TO THE<br> + GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA; AND PARTICULARLY<br> + RECITING THE SUFFERINGS OF THE BAND<br> + OF MEN, WOMEN AND CHILDREN WHO<br> + GAVE "DEATH VALLEY" ITS NAME.<br> + <br> + <br> + <br> + </font>_____________________<br> + <br> + BY WILLIAM LEWIS MANLY.<br> + _____________________<br> + <br> + <br> + <font size="2">SAN JOSE. CAL.:<br> + THE PACIFIC TREE AND VINE CO.<br> + 1894. </font> + <br> + <hr> + <br> + <br> + <font size="2">Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1894, by<br> + WM. L. MANLEY,<br> + In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C.</font><font size=-1><br> + <br> + <br> + <br> + </font> + <hr> + <br> + <br> + TO<br> + THE PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,<br> + THEIR CHILDREN AND GRANDCHILDREN,<br> + THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED,<br> + WITH THAT HIGH RESPECT AND REGARD<br> + SO OFTEN EXPRESSED IN ITS PAGES,<br> + BY THE AUTHOR.<br> + <br> + <br> + <br> + <hr> + <br> + <p><b><font size="4">CONTENTS. </font></b></p> + </div> + <br> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-38985">CHAPTER I</a></b>.<br> + Birth, Parentage.—Early Life in Vermont.—Sucking Cider through a Straw.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-43074">CHAPTER II.</a> </b><br> + The Western Fever.—On the Road to Ohio.—The Outfit.—The Erie Canal.—In the Maumee Swamp.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-24444">CHAPTER III.</a> </b><br> + At Detroit and Westward.—Government Land.—Killing Deer.—"Fever 'N Agur."</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-16153">CHAPTER IV.</a> </b><br> + The Lost Filley Boy.—Never Was Found.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-14349">CHAPTER V.</a></b><br> + Sickness.—Rather Catch Chipmonks in the Rocky + Mountains than Live in Michigan.—Building the + Michigan Central R.R.—Building a + Boat.—Floating down Grand River.—Black + Bear.—Indians Catching Mullet.—Across the Lake + to Southport.—Lead Mining at Mineral + Point.—Decides to go Farther West.—Return to + Michigan.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-57841">CHAPTER VI.</a> </b><br> + Wisconsin.—Indian Physic.—Dressed for a Winter + Hunting Campaign.—Hunting and Trapping in the + Woods.—Catching Otter and Marten.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-44899">CHAPTER VII.</a> </b><br> + Lead Mining.—Hears about Gold in + California.—Gets the Gold Fever.—Nothing will + cure it but California.—Mr. Bennett and the Author + Prepare to Start.—The Winnebago Pony.—Agrees + to Meet Bennett at Missouri River.—Delayed and Fails + to Find Him.—Left with only a Gun and + Pony.—Goes as a Driver for Charles + Dallas.—Stopped by a Herd of + Buffaloes.—Buffalo Meat.—Indians.—U.S. + Troops.—The Captain and the Lieutenant.—Arrive + at South Pass.—The Waters Run toward the + Pacific.—They Find a Boat and Seven of them Decide + to Float down the Green River.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-34642">CHAPTER VIII.</a> + </b><br> + Floating down the River.—It begins to + roar.—Thirty Miles a Day.—Brown's + Hole.—Lose the Boat and make two + Canoes.—Elk.—The Cañons get + Deeper.—Floundering in the Water.—The Indian + Camp.—Chief Walker proves a Friend.—Describes + the Terrible Cañon below Them.—Advises Them + to go no farther down.—Decide to go + Overland.—Dangerous Route to Salt Lake.—Meets + Bennett near there.—Organize the Sand Walking + Company.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-12684">CHAPTER IX.</a> </b><br> + The Southern Route.—Off in Fine Style.—A + Cut-off Proposed.—Most of Them Try it and + Fail.—The Jayhawkers.—A New + Organization.—Men with Families not + Admitted.—Capture an Indian Who Gives Them the + Slip.—An Indian Woman and Her Children.—Grass + Begins to Fail.—A High Peak to the West.—No + Water.—An Indian Hut.—Reach the Warm + Spring.—Desert Everywhere.—Some One Steals + Food.—The Water Acts Like a Dose of + Salts.—Christmas Day.—Rev. J.W. Brier Delivers + a Lecture to His Sons.—Nearly Starving and + Choking.—An Indian in a Mound.—Indians Shoot + the Oxen.—Camp at Furnace Creek.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-1376">CHAPTER X.</a> </b><br> + A Long, Narrow Valley.—Beds and Blocks of + Salt.—An Ox Killed.—Blood, Hide and Intestines + Eaten.—Crossing Death Valley.—The Wagons can + go no farther.—Manley and Rogers Volunteer to go for + Assistance.—They Set out on Foot.—Find the + Dead Body of Mr. Fish.—Mr. Isham Dies.—Bones + along the Road.—Cabbage Trees.—Eating Crow and + Hawk.—After Sore Trials They Reach a Fertile + Land.—Kindly Treated.—Returning with Food and + Animals.—The Little Mule Climbs a Precipice, the + Horses are Left Behind.—Finding the Body of Captain + Culverwell.—They Reach Their Friends just as all + Hope has Left Them.—Leaving the Wagons.—Packs + on the Oxen.—Sacks for the Children.—Old + Crump.—Old Brigham and Mrs. Arcane.—A Stampede + [<a href="#Anchor-43659">Illustrated.</a>]—Once more + Moving Westward.—"Good-bye, Death + Valley."</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-1554">CHAPTER XI.</a> </b><br> + Struggling Along.—Pulling the Oxen Down the + Precipice [<a + href="#Anchor-8071">Illustrated.</a>]—Making + Raw-hide Moccasins.—Old Brigham Lost and + Found.—Dry Camps.—Nearly + Starving.—Melancholy and Blue.—The Feet of the + Women Bare and Blistered.—"One Cannot form an + Idea How Poor an Ox Will Get."—Young Charlie + Arcane very Sick.—Skulls of Cattle.—Crossing + the Snow Belt.—Old Dog Cuff.—Water Dancing + over the Rocks.—Drink, Ye Thirsty + Ones.—Killing a Yearling.—See the + Fat.—Eating Makes Them Sick.—Going down + Soledad Cañon—A Beautiful + Meadow.—Hospitable Spanish People.—They + Furnish Shelter and Food.—The San Fernando + Mission.—Reaching Los Angeles.—They Meet Moody + and Skinner.—Soap and Water for the First Time in + Months.—Clean Dresses for the Women.—Real + Bread to Eat.—A Picture of Los + Angeles.—Black-eyed Women.—The Author Works in + a Boarding-house.—Bennett and Others go up the + Coast.—Life in Los Angeles.—The Author + Prepares to go North.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-4887">CHAPTER XII.</a> </b><br> + Dr. McMahon's Story.—McMahon and Field, Left behind + with Chief Walker, Determine to go down the + River.—Change Their Minds and go with the + Indians.—Change again and go by + themselves.—Eating Wolf Meat.—After much + Suffering they reach Salt Lake.—John Taylor's Pretty + Wife.—Field falls in Love with her.—They + Separate.—Incidents of Wonderful Escapes from + Death.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-47487">CHAPTER XIII.</a> + </b><br> + Story of the Jayhawkers.—Ceremonies of + Initiation—Rev. J.W. Brier.—His Wife the best + Man of the Two.—Story of the Road across Death + Valley.—Burning the Wagons.—Narrow Escape of + Tom Shannon.—Capt. Ed Doty was Brave and + True.—They reach the Sea by way of Santa Clara + River.—Capt. Haynes before the Alcalde.—List + of Jayhawkers.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-42598">CHAPTER XIV.</a> </b><br> + Alexander Erkson's Statement.—Works for Brigham + Young at Salt Lake.—Mormon Gold Coin.—Mt. + Misery.—The Virgin River and Yucca Trees.—A + Child Born to Mr, and Mrs. Rynierson.—Arrive at + Cucamonga.—Find some good Wine which is good for + Scurvy.—San Francisco and the Mines.—Settles + in San Jose.—Experience of Edward Coker.—Death + of Culverwell, Fish and Isham.—Goes through Walker's + Pass and down Kern River.—Living in Fresno in + 1892.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-37990">CHAPTER XV.</a> </b><br> + The Author again takes up the History.—Working in a + Boarding House, but makes Arrangements to go + North.—Mission San Bueno Ventura.—First Sight + of the Pacific Ocean.—Santa Barbara in + 1850.—Paradise and Desolation.—San Miguel, + Santa Ynez and San Luis Obispo.—California Carriages + and how they were used.—Arrives in San Jose and + Camps in the edge of Town.—Description of the + place.—Meets John Rogers, Bennett, Moody and + Skinner.—On the road to the Mines.—They find + some of the Yellow Stuff and go Prospecting for + more—Experience with <i>Piojos</i>—Life and + Times in the Mines—Sights and Scenes along the Road, + at Sea, on the Isthmus, Cuba, New Orleans, and up the + Mississippi—A few Months Amid Old Scenes, then away + to the Golden State again.</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-27012">CHAPTER XVI.</a></b><br> + St. Louis to New Orleans, New Orleans to San + Francisco—Off to the Mines Again—Life in the + Mines and Incidents of Mining Times and + Men—Vigilance Committee—Death of Mrs. + Bennett</p> + <p><b><a href="#Anchor-CHAPTE-54752">CHAPTER XVII.</a></b><br> + Mines and Mining—Adventures and Incidents of the + Early Days—The Pioneers, their Character and + Influence—Conclusion</p> + <br> + <hr> + <div align=center> + <br> + <br> + <font size="5">DEATH VALLEY IN '49.</font><br> + <font size="4">THE</font><br> + <font size="5">AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A</font><br> + <font size="7">PIONEER<br> + </font><font size="3"><br> + </font> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-38985"></a>CHAPTER I.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>St. Albans, Vermont is near the eastern shore of Lake + Champlain, and only a short distance south of + "Five-and-forty north degrees" which separates the + United States from Canada, and some sixty or seventy miles + from the great St. Lawrence River and the city of Montreal. + Near here it was, on April 6th, 1820, I was born, so the + record says, and from this point with wondering eyes of + childhood I looked across the waters of the narrow lake to the + slopes of the Adirondack mountains in New York, green as the + hills of my own Green Mountain State.<br> + </p> + <p>The parents of my father were English people and lived near + Hartford, Connecticut, where he was born. While still a little + boy he came with his parents to Vermont. My mother's maiden + name was Phoebe Calkins, born near St. Albans of Welch + parents, and, being left an orphan while yet in very tender + years, she was given away to be reared by people who provided + food and clothes, but permitted her to grow up to womanhood + without knowing how to read or write. After her marriage she + learned to do both, and acquired the rudiments of an + education.<br> + </p> + <p>Grandfather and his boys, four in all, fairly carved a farm + out of the big forest that covered the cold rocky hills. Giant + work it was for them in such heavy timber—pine, hemlock, + maple, beech and birch—the clearing of a single acre + being a man's work for a year. The place where the maples were + thickest was reserved for a sugar grove, and from it was made + all of the sweet material they needed, and some besides. + Economy of the very strictest kind had to be used in every + direction. Main strength and muscle were the only things + dispensed in plenty. The crops raised consisted of a small + flint corn, rye oats, potatoes and turnips. Three cows, ten or + twelve sheep, a few pigs and a yoke of strong oxen comprised + the live stock—horses, they had none for many years. A + great ox-cart was the only wheeled vehicle on the place, and + this, in winter, gave place to a heavy sled, the runners cut + from a tree having a natural crook and roughly, but strongly, + made.<br> + </p> + <p>In summer there were plenty of strawberries, raspberries, + whortleberries and blackberries growing wild, but all the + cultivated fruit was apples. As these ripened many were peeled + by hand, cut in quarters, strung on long strings of twine and + dried before the kitchen fire for winter use. They had a way + of burying up some of the best keepers in the ground, and + opening the apple hole was quite an event of early spring.<br> + </p> + <p>The children were taught to work as soon as large enough. I + remember they furnished me with a little wooden fork to spread + the heavy swath of grass my father cut with easy swings of the + scythe, and when it was dry and being loaded on the great + ox-cart I followed closely with a rake gathering every + scattering spear. The barn was built so that every animal was + housed comfortably in winter, and the house was such as all + settlers built, not considered handsome, but capable of being + made very warm in winter and the great piles of hard wood in + the yard enough to last as fuel for a year, not only helped to + clear the land, but kept us comfortable. Mother and the girls + washed, carded, spun, and wove the wool from our own sheep + into good strong cloth. Flax was also raised, and I remember + how they pulled it, rotted it by spreading on the green + meadow, then broke and dressed it, and then the women made + linen cloth of various degrees of fineness, quality, and + beauty. Thus, by the labor of both men and women, we were + clothed. If an extra fine Sunday dress was desired, part of + the yarn was colored and from this they managed to get up a + very nice plaid goods for the purpose.<br> + </p> + <p>In clearing the land the hemlock bark was peeled and traded + off at the tannery for leather, or used to pay for tanning and + dressing the hide of an ox or cow which they managed to fat + and kill about every year. Stores for the family were either + made by a neighboring shoe-maker, or by a traveling one who + went from house to house, making up a supply for the + family—whipping the cat, they called it then. They paid + him in something or other produced upon the farm, and no money + was asked or expected.<br> + </p> + <p>Wood was one thing plenty, and the fireplace was made large + enough to take in sticks four feet long or more, for the more + they could burn the better, to get it out of the way. In an + outhouse, also provided with a fireplace and chimney, they + made shingles during the long winter evenings, the shavings + making plenty of fire and light by which to work. The shingles + sold for about a dollar a thousand. Just beside the fireplace + in the house was a large brick oven where mother baked great + loaves of bread, big pots of pork and beans, mince pies and + loaf cake, a big turkey or a young pig on grand occasions. + Many of the dishes used were of tin or pewter; the milk pans + were of earthenware, but most things about the house in the + line of furniture were of domestic manufacture.<br> + </p> + <p>The store bills were very light. A little tea for father + and mother, a few spices and odd luxuries were about all, and + they were paid for with surplus eggs. My father and my uncle + had a sawmill, and in winter they hauled logs to it, and could + sell timber for $8 per thousand feet.<br> + </p> + <p>The school was taught in winter by a man named Bowen, who + managed forty scholars and considered sixteen dollars a month, + boarding himself, was pretty fair pay. In summer some smart + girl would teach the small scholars and board round among the + families.<br> + </p> + <p>When the proper time came the property holder would send + off to the collector an itemized list of all his property, and + at another the taxes fell due. A farmer who would value his + property at two thousand or three thousand dollars would find + he had to pay about six or seven dollars. All the money in use + then seemed to be silver, and not very much of that. The whole + plan seemed to be to have every family and farm + self-supporting as far as possible. I have heard of a note + being given payable in a good cow to be delivered at a certain + time, say October 1, and on that day it would pass from house + to house in payment of a debt, and at night only the last man + in the list would have a cow more than his neighbor. Yet those + were the days of real independence, after all. Every man + worked hard from early youth to a good old age. There were no + millionaires, no tramps, and the poorhouse had only a few + inmates.<br> + </p> + <p>I have very pleasant recollections of the neighborhood + cider mill. There were two rollers formed of logs carefully + rounded and four or five feet long, set closely together in an + upright position in a rough frame, a long crooked sweep coming + from one of them to which a horse was hitched and pulled it + round and round. One roller had mortices in it, and projecting + wooden teeth on the other fitted into these, so that, as they + both slowly turned together, the apples were crushed. A huge + box of coarse slats, notched and locked together at the + corners, held a vast pile of the crushed apples while clean + rye straw was added to strain the flowing juice and keep the + cheese from spreading too much; then the ponderous screw and + streams of delicious cider. Sucking cider through a long rye + straw inserted in the bung-hole of a barrel was just the best + of fun, and cider taken that way "awful" good while + it was new and sweet.<br> + </p> + <p>The winter ashes, made from burning so much fuel and + gathered from the brush-heaps and log-heaps, were carefully + saved and traded with the potash men for potash or sold for a + small price. Nearly every one went barefoot in summer, and in + winter wore heavy leather moccasins made by the Canadian + French who lived near by.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=200 alt="" src="images/ch_01.png" width=200 border=0><br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-43074"></a>CHAPTER II.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>About 1828 people began to talk about the far West. Ohio + was the place we heard most about, and the most we knew was, + that it was a long way off and no way to get there except over + a long and tedious road, with oxen or horses and a cart or + wagon. More than one got the Western fever, as they called it, + my uncle James Webster and my father among the rest, when they + heard some traveler tell about the fine country he had seen; + so they sold their farms and decided to go to Ohio, Uncle + James was to go ahead, in the fall of 1829 and get a farm to + rent, if he could, and father and his family were to come on + the next spring.<br> + </p> + <p>Uncle fitted out with two good horses and a wagon; goods + were packed in a large box made to fit, and under the wagon + seat was the commissary chest for food and bedding for daily + use, all snugly arranged. Father had, shortly before, bought a + fine Morgan mare and a light wagon which served as a family + carriage, having wooden axles and a seat arranged on wooden + springs, and they finally decided they would let me take the + horse and wagon and go on with uncle, and father and mother + would come by water, either by way of the St. Lawrence river + and the lakes or by way of the new canal recently built, which + would take them as far as Buffalo.<br> + </p> + <p>So they loaded up the little wagon with some of the + mentioned things and articles in the house, among which I + remember a fine brass kettle, considered almost indispensable + in housekeeping. There was a good lot of bedding and blankets, + and a quilt nicely folded was placed on the spring seat as a + cushion.<br> + </p> + <p>As may be imagined I was the object of a great deal of + attention about this time, for a boy not yet ten years old + just setting out into a region almost unknown was a little + unusual. When I was ready they all gathered round to say good + bye and my good mother seemed most concerned. She + said—"Now you must be a good boy till we come in + the spring. Mind uncle and aunt and take good care of the + horse, and remember us. May God protect you." She + embraced me and kissed me and held me till she was exhausted. + Then they lifted me up into the spring seat, put the lines in + my hand and handed me my little whip with a leather strip for + a lash. Just at the last moment father handed me a purse + containing about a dollar, all in copper cents—pennies + we called them then. Uncle had started on they had kept me so + long, but I started up and they all followed me along the road + for a mile or so before we finally separated and they turned + back. They waved hats and handkerchiefs till out of sight as + they returned, and I wondered if we should ever meet + again.<br> + </p> + <p>I was up with uncle very soon and we rolled down through + St. Albans and took our road southerly along in sight of Lake + Champlain. Uncle and aunt often looked back to talk to me, + "See what a nice cornfield!" or, "What nice + apples on those trees," seeming to think they must do all + they could to cheer me up, that I might not think too much of + the playmates and home I was leaving behind.<br> + </p> + <p>I had never driven very far before, but I found the horse + knew more than I did how to get around the big stones and + stumps that were found in the road, so that as long as I held + the lines and the whip in hand I was an excellent driver.<br> + </p> + <p>We had made plans and preparations to board ourselves on + the journey. We always stopped at the farm houses over night, + and they were so hospitable that they gave us all we wanted + free. Our supper was generally of bread and milk, the latter + always furnished gratuitously, and I do not recollect that we + were ever turned away from any house where we asked shelter. + There were no hotels, or taverns as they called them, outside + of the towns.<br> + </p> + <p>In due time we reached Whitehall, at the head of Lake + Champlain, and the big box in Uncle's wagon proved so heavy + over the muddy roads that he put it in a canal boat to be sent + on to Cleveland, and we found it much easier after this for + there were too many mud-holes, stumps and stones and log + bridges for so heavy a load as he had. Our road many times + after this led along near the canal, the Champlain or the + Erie, and I had a chance to see something of the canal boys' + life. The boy who drove the horses that drew the packet boat + was a well dressed fellow and always rode at a full trot or a + gallop, but the freight driver was generally ragged and + barefoot, and walked when it was too cold to ride, threw + stones or clubs at his team, and cursed and abused the + packet-boy who passed as long as he was in hearing. Reared as + I had been I thought it was a pretty wicked part of the world + we were coming to.<br> + </p> + <p>We passed one village of low cheap houses near the canal. + The men about were very vulgar and talked rough and loud, + nearly every one with a pipe, and poorly dressed, loafing + around the saloon, apparently the worse for whisky. The + children were barefoot, bare headed and scantly dressed, and + it seemed awfully dirty about the doors of the shanties. Pigs, + ducks and geese were at the very door, and the women I saw + wore dresses that did not come down very near the mud and big + brogan shoes, and their talk was saucy and different from what + I had ever heard women use before. They told me they were + Irish people—the first I had ever seen. It was along + here somewhere that I lost my little whip and to get another + one made sad inroads into the little purse of pennies my + father gave me. We traveled slowly on day after day. There was + no use to hurry for we could not do it. The roads were muddy, + the log ways very rough and the only way was to take a + moderate gait and keep it. We never traveled on Sunday. One + Saturday evening my uncle secured the privilege of staying at + a well-to do farmer's house until Monday. We had our own food + and bedding, but were glad to get some privileges in the + kitchen, and some fresh milk or vegetables. After all had + taken supper that night they all sat down and made themselves + quiet with their books, and the children were as still as mice + till an early bed time when all retired. When Sunday evening + came the women got out their work—their sewing and their + knitting, and the children romped and played and made as much + noise as they could, seeming as anxious to break the Sabbath + as they had been to have a pious Saturday night. I had never + seen that way before and asked my uncle who said he guessed + they were Seventh Day Baptists.<br> + </p> + <p>After many days of travel which became to me quite + monotonous we came to Cleveland, on Lake Erie, and here my + uncle found his box of goods, loaded it into the wagon again, + and traveled on through rain and mud, making very slow + headway, for two or three days after, when we stopped at a + four-corners in Medina county they told us we were only 21 + miles from Cleveland. Here was a small town consisting of a + hotel, store, church, schoolhouse and blacksmith shop, and as + it was getting cold and bad, uncle decided to go no farther + now, and rented a room for himself and aunt, and found a place + for me to lodge with Daniel Stevens' boy close by. We got good + stables for our horses.<br> + </p> + <p>I went to the district school here, and studied reading, + spelling and Colburn's mental arithmetic, which I mastered. It + began very easy—"How many thumbs on your right + hand?" "How many on your left?" "How many + altogether?" but it grew harder further on.<br> + </p> + <p>Uncle took employment at anything he could find to do. + Chopping was his principal occupation. When the snow began to + go off he looked around for a farm to rent for us and father + to live on when he came, but he found none such as he needed. + He now got a letter from father telling him that he had good + news from a friend named Cornish who said that good land + nearly clear of timber could be bought of the Government in + Michigan Territory, some sixty or seventy miles beyond + Detroit, and this being an opportunity to get land they needed + with their small capital, they would start for that place as + soon as the water-ways were thawed out, probably in April.<br> + </p> + <div align="left"> + <p>We then gave up the idea of staying here and prepared + to go to Michigan as soon as the frost was out of the + ground. Starting, we reached Huron River to find it + swollen and out of its bank, giving us much trouble to get + across, the road along the bottom lands being partly + covered with logs and rails, but once across we were in + the town and when we enquired about the road around to + Detroit, they said the country was all a swamp and 30 + miles wide and in Spring impassible. They called it the + Maumee or Black Swamp. We were advised to go by water, + when a steamboat came up the river bound for Detroit we + put our wagons and horses on board, and camped on the + lower deck ourselves. We had our own food and were very + comfortable, and glad to have escaped the great + mudhole.</p> + </div> + <div align=center> + <br> + <img height=88 alt="" src="images/ch_03.png" width=93 border=0> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-24444"></a>CHAPTER III.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>We arrived in Detroit safely, and a few minutes answered to + land our wagons and goods, when we rolled outward in a + westerly direction. We found a very muddy roads, stumps and + log bridges plenty, making our rate of travel very slow. When + out upon our road about 30 miles, near Ypsilanti, the thick + forest we had been passing through grew thinner, and the trees + soon dwindled down into what they called oak openings, and the + road became more sandy. When we reached McCracken's Tavern we + began to enquire for Ebenezer Manley and family, and were soon + directed to a large house near by where he was stopping for a + time.<br> + </p> + <p>We drove up to the door and they all came out to see who + the new comers were. Mother saw me first and ran to the wagon + and pulled me off and hugged and kissed me over and over + again, while the tears ran down her cheeks. Then she would + hold me off at arm's length, and look me in the eye and + say—"I am so glad to have you again"; and then + she embraced me again and again. "You are our little + man," said she, "You have come over this long road, + and brought us our good horse and our little wagon." My + sister Polly two years older than I, stood patiently by, and + when mother turned to speak to uncle and aunt, she locked arms + with me and took me away with her. We had never been separated + before in all our lives and we had loved each other as good + children should, who have been brought up in good and moral + principles. We loved each other and our home and respected our + good father and mother who had made it so happy for us.<br> + </p> + <p>We all sat down by the side of the house and talked pretty + fast telling our experience on our long journey by land and + water, and when the sun went down we were called to supper, + and went hand in hand to surround the bountiful table as a + family again. During the conversation at supper father said to + me—"Lewis, I have bought you a smooth bore rifle, + suitable for either ball or shot." This, I thought was + good enough for any one, and I thanked him heartily. We spent + the greater part of the night in talking over our adventures + since we left Vermont, and sleep was forgotten by young and + old.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning father and uncle took the horse and little + wagon and went out in search of Government land. They found an + old acquaintance in Jackson county and Government land all + around him, and, searching till they found the section corner, + they found the number of the lots they wanted to locate + on—200 acres in all. They then went to the Detroit land + office and secured the pieces they had chosen.<br> + </p> + <p>Father now bought a yoke of oxen, a wagon and a cow, and as + soon as we could get loaded up our little emigrant train + started west to our future home, where we arrived safely in a + few days and secured a house to live in about a mile away from + our land. We now worked with a will and built two log houses + and also hired 10 acres broken, which was done with three or + four yoke of oxen and a strong plow. The trees were scattered + over the ground and some small brush and old limbs, and logs + which we cleared away as we plowed. Our houses went up very + fast—all rough oak logs, with oak puncheons, or hewed + planks for a floor, and oak shakes for a roof, all of our own + make. The shakes were held down upon the roof by heavy poles, + for we had no nails, the door of split stuff hung with wooden + hinges, and the fire place of stone laid up with the logs, and + from the loft floor upward the chimney was built of split + stuff plastered heavily with mud. We have a small four-paned + window in the house. We then built a log barn for our oxen, + cow and horse and got pigs, sheep and chickens as fast as a + chance offered.<br> + </p> + <p>As fast as possible we fenced in the cultivated land, + father and uncle splitting out the rails, while a younger + brother and myself, by each getting hold of an end of one of + them managed to lay up a fence four rails high, all we small + men could do. Thus working on, we had a pretty well cultivated + farm in the course of two or three years, on which we produced + wheat, corn and potatoes, and had an excellent garden. We + found plenty of wild cranberries and whortleberries, which we + dried for winter use. The lakes were full of good fish, black + bass and pickerel, and the woods had deer, turkeys, pheasants, + pigeons, and other things, and I became quite an expert in the + capture of small game for the table with my new gun. Father + and uncle would occasionally kill a deer, and the Indians came + along and sold venison at times.<br> + </p> + <p>One fall after work was done and preparations were made for + the winter, father said to me:—"Now Lewis, I want + you to hunt every day—come home nights—but keep on + till you kill a deer." So with his permission I started + with my gun on my shoulder, and with feelings of considerable + pride. Before night I started two deer in a brushy place, and + they leaped high over the oak bushes in the most affrighted + way. I brought my gun to my shoulder and fired at the bounding + animal when in most plain sight. Loading then quickly, I + hurried up the trail as fast as I could and soon came to my + deer, dead, with a bullet hole in its head. I was really + surprised myself, for I had fired so hastily at the almost + flying animal that it was little more than a random shot. As + the deer was not very heavy I dressed it and packed it home + myself, about as proud a boy as the State of Michigan + contained. I really began to think I was a capital hunter, + though I afterward knew it was a bit of good luck and not a + bit of skill about it.<br> + </p> + <p>It was some time after this before I made another lucky + shot. Father would once in a while ask me:—"Well + can't you kill us another deer?" I told him that when I + had crawled a long time toward a sleeping deer, that I got so + trembly that I could not hit an ox in short range. + "O," said he, "You get the buck + fever—don't be so timid—they won't attack + you." But after awhile this fever wore off, and I got so + steady that I could hit anything I could get in reach of.<br> + </p> + <p>We were now quite contented and happy. Father could plainly + show us the difference between this country and Vermont and + the advantages we had here. There the land was poor and stony + and the winters terribly severe. Here there were no stones to + plow over, and the land was otherwise easy to till. We could + raise almost anything, and have nice wheat bread to eat, far + superior to the "Rye-and-Indian" we used to have. + The nice white bread was good enough to eat without butter, + and in comparison this country seemed a real paradise.<br> + </p> + <p>The supply of clothing we brought with us had lasted until + now—more than two years—and we had sowed some flax + and raised sheep so that we began to get material of our own + raising, from which to manufacture some more. Mother and + sister spun some nice yarn, both woolen and linen, and father + had a loom made on which mother wove it up into cloth, and we + were soon dressed up in bran new clothes again. Domestic + economy of this kind was as necessary here as it was in + Vermont, and we knew well how to practice it. About this time + the emigrants began to come in very fast, and every piece of + Government land any where about was taken. So much land was + ploughed, and so much vegetable matter turned under and + decaying that there came a regular epidemic of fever and ague + and bilious fever, and a large majority of the people were + sick. At our house father was the first one attacked, and when + the fever was at its height he was quite out of his head and + talked and acted like a crazy man. We had never seen any one + so sick before, and we thought he must surely die, but when + the doctor came he said:—"Don't be alarmed. It is + only 'fever 'n' agur,' and no one was ever known to die of + that." Others of us were sick too, and most of the + neighbors, and it made us all feel rather sorrowful. The + doctor's medicines consisted of calomel, jalap and quinine, + all used pretty freely, by some with benefit, and by others to + no visible purpose, for they had to suffer until the cold + weather came and froze the disease out. At one time I was the + only one that remained well, and I had to nurse and cook, + besides all the out-door work that fell to me. My sister + married a man near by with a good farm and moved there with + him, a mile or two away. When she went away I lost my real + bosom companion and felt very lonesome, but I went to see her + once in a while, and that was pretty often, I think. There was + not much going on as a general thing. Some little neighborhood + society and news was about all. There was, however, one + incident which occurred in 1837, I never shall forget, and + which I will relate in the next chapter.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=169 alt="" src="images/ch_04.png" width=135 border=0><br> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-16153"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>About two miles west father's farm in Jackson county Mich., + lived Ami Filley, who moved here from Connecticut and settled + about two and a half miles from the town of Jackson, then a + small village with plenty of stumps and mudholes in its + streets. Many of the roads leading thereto had been paved with + tamarac poles, making what is now known as corduroy roads. The + country was still new and the farm houses far between.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Filley secured Government land in the oak openings, and + settled there with his wife and two or three children, the + oldest of which was a boy named Willie. The children were + getting old enough to go to school, but there being none, Mr. + Filley hired one of the neighbor's daughters to come to his + house and teach the children there, so they might be prepared + for usefulness in life or ready to proceed further with their + education—to college, perhaps in some future day.<br> + </p> + <p>The young woman he engaged lived about a mile a half + away—Miss Mary Mount—and she came over and began + her duties as private school ma'am, not a very difficult task + in those days. One day after she had been teaching some time + Miss Mount desired to go to her father's on a visit, and as + she would pass a huckleberry swamp on the way she took a small + pail to fill with berries as she went, and by consent of + Willie's mother, the little boy went with her for company. + Reaching the berries she began to pick, and the little boy + found this dull business, got tired and homesick and wanted to + go home. They were about a mile from Mr. Filley's and as there + was a pretty good foot trail over which they had come, the + young woman took the boy to it, and turning him toward home + told him to follow it carefully and he would soon see his + mother. She then filled her pail with berries, went on to her + own home, and remained there till nearly sundown, when she set + out to return to Mr. Filley's, reaching there yet in the early + twilight. Not seeing Willie, she inquired for him and was told + that he had not returned, and that they supposed he was safe + with her. She then hastily related how it happened that he had + started back toward home, and that she supposed he had safely + arrived.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Filley then started back on the trail, keeping close + watch on each side of the way, for he expected he would soon + come across Master Willie fast asleep. He called his name + every few rods, but got no answer nor could he discover him, + and so returned home again, still calling and searching, but + no boy was discovered. Then he built a large fire and put + lighted candles in all the windows, then took his lantern and + wont out in the woods calling and looking for the boy. + Sometimes he thought he heard him, but on going where the + sound came from nothing could be found. So he looked and + called all night, along the trail and all about the woods, + with no success. Mr. Mount's home was situated not far from + the shore of Fitch's Lake, and the trail went along the + margin, and in some places the ground was quite a boggy marsh, + and the trail had been fixed up to make it passably good + walking.<br> + </p> + <p>Next day the neighbors were notified, and asked to assist, + and although they were in the midst of wheat harvest, a great + many laid down the cradle and rake and went out to help + search. On the third day the whole county became excited and + quite an army of searchers turned out, coming from the whole + country miles around.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Filley was much excited and quite worn out an beside + himself with fatigue and loss of sleep. He could not eat. + Yielding to entreaty he would sit at the table, and suddenly + rise up, saying he heard Willie calling, and go out to search + for the supposed voice, but it was all fruitless, and the + whole people were sorry indeed for the poor father and + mother.<br> + </p> + <p>The people then formed a plan for a thorough search. They + were to form in a line so near each other that they could + touch hands and were to march thus turning out for nothing + except in passable lakes, and thus we marched, fairly sweeping + the county in search of a sign. I was with this party and we + marched south and kept close watch for a bit of clothing, a + foot print or even bones, or anything which would indicate + that he had been destroyed by some wild animal. Thus we + marched all day with no success, and the next went north in + the same careful manner, but with no better result. Most of + the people now abandoned the search, but some of the neighbors + kept it up for a long time.<br> + </p> + <p>Some expressed themselves quite strongly that Miss Mount + knew where the boy was, saying that she might have had some + trouble with him and in seeking to correct him had + accidentally killed him and then hidden the body + away—perhaps in the deep mire of the swamp or in the + muddy waters on the margin of the lake. Search was made with + this idea foremost, but nothing was discovered. Rain now set + in, and the grain, from neglect grew in the head as it stood, + and many a settler ate poor bread all winter in consequence of + his neighborly kindness in the midst of harvest. The bread + would not rise, and to make it into pancakes was the best way + it could be used.<br> + </p> + <p>Still no tidings ever came of the lost boy. Many things + were whispered, about Mr. Mount's dishonesty of character and + there were many suspicions about him, but no real facts could + be shown to account for the boy. The neighbors said he never + worked like the rest of them, and that his patch of cultivated + land was altogether too small to support his family, a wife + and two daughters, grown. He was a very smooth and affable + talker, and had lots of acquaintances. A few years afterwards + Mr. Mount was convicted of a crime which sent him to the + Jackson State Prison, where he died before his term expired. I + visited the Filley family in 1870, and from them heard the + facts anew and that no trace of the lost boy had ever been + discovered.<br> + <br> + </p> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-14349"></a>CHAPTER V.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>The second year of sickness and I was affected with the + rest, though it was not generally so bad as the first year. I + suffered a great deal and felt so miserable that I began to + think I had rather live on the top of the Rocky Mountains and + catch chipmuncks for a living than to live here and be sick, + and I began to have very serious thoughts of trying some other + country. In the winter of 1839 and 1840 I went to a + neighboring school for three months, where I studied reading, + writing and spelling, getting as far as Rule of Three in + Daboll's arithmetic. When school was out I chopped and split + rails for Wm. Hanna till I had paid my winter's board. After + this, myself and a young man named Orrin Henry, with whom I + had become acquainted, worked awhile scoring timber to be used + in building the Michigan Central Railroad which had just then + begun to be built. They laid down the ties first (sometimes a + mudsill under them) and then put down four by eight wooden + rails with a strips of band iron half an inch thick spiked on + top. I scored the timber and Henry used the broad axe after + me. It was pretty hard work and the hours as long as we could + see, our wages being $13 per month, half cash.<br> + </p> + <p>In thinking over our prospect it seemed more and more as if + I had better look out for my own fortune in some other place. + The farm was pretty small for all of us. There were three + brothers younger than I, and only 200 acres in the whole, and + as they were growing up to be men it seemed as if it would be + best for me, the oldest, to start out first and see what could + be done to make my own living. I talked to father and mother + about my plans, and they did not seriously object, but gave me + some good advice, which I remember to this + day—"Weigh well every thing you do; shun bad + company; be honest and deal fair; be truthful and never fear + when you know you are right." But, said he, "Our + little peach trees will bear this year, and if you go away you + must come back and help us eat them; they will be the first we + ever raised or ever saw." I could not promise.<br> + </p> + <p>Henry and I drew our pay for our work. I had five dollars + in cash and the rest in pay from the company's store. We + purchased three nice whitewood boards, eighteen inches wide, + from which we made us a boat and a good sized chest which we + filled with provisions and some clothing and quilts. This, + with our guns and ammunition, composed the cargo of our boat. + When all was ready, we put the boat on a wagon and were to + haul it to the river some eight miles away for embarkation. + After getting the wagon loaded, father said to + me;—"Now my son, you are starting out in life + alone, no one to watch or look after you. You will have to + depend upon yourself in all things. You have a wide, wide + world to operate in—you will meet all kinds of people + and you must not expect to find them all honest or true + friends. You are limited in money, and all I can do for you in + that way is to let you have what ready money I have." He + handed me three dollars as he spoke, which added to my own + gave me seven dollars as my money capital with which to start + out into the world among perfect strangers, and no + acquaintances in prospect on our Western course.<br> + </p> + <p>When ready to start, mother and sister Poll came out to see + us off and to give us their best wishes, hoping we would have + good health, and find pleasant paths to follow. Mother said to + me:—"You must be a good boy, honest and + law-abiding. Remember our advice, and honor us for we have + striven to make you a good and honest man, and you must follow + our teachings, and your conscience will be clear. Do nothing + to be ashamed of; be industrious, and you have no fear of + punishment." We were given a great many "Good + byes" and "God bless you's" as with hands, hats + and handkerchiefs they waved us off as far as we could see + them. In the course of an hour or so we were at the water's + edge, and on a beautiful morning in early spring of 1840 we + found ourselves floating down the Grand River below + Jackson.<br> + </p> + <p>The stream ran west, that we knew, and it was west we + thought we wanted to go, so all things suited us. The stream + was small with tall timber on both sides, and so many trees + had fallen into the river that our navigation was at times + seriously obstructed. When night came we hauled our boat on + shore, turned it partly over, so as to shelter us, built a + fire in front, and made a bed on a loose board which we + carried in the bottom of the boat. We talked till pretty late + and then lay down to sleep, but for my part my eyes would not + stay shut, and I lay till break of day and the little birds + began to sing faintly.<br> + </p> + <p>I thought of many things that night which seemed so long. I + had left a good dear home, where I had good warm meals and a + soft and comfortable bed. Here I had reposed on a board with a + very hard pillow and none too many blankets, and I turned from + side to side on my hard bed, to which I had gone with all my + clothes on. It seemed the beginning of another chapter in my + pioneer life and a rather tough experience. I arose, kindled a + big fire and sat looking at the glowing coals in still further + meditation.<br> + </p> + <p>Neither of us felt very gleeful as we got our breakfast and + made an early start down the river again. Neither of us talked + very much, and no doubt my companion had similar thoughts to + mine, and wondered what was before us. But I think that as a + pair we were at that moment pretty lonesome. Henry had rested + better than I but probably felt no less keenly the separation + from our homes and friends. We saw plenty of squirrels and + pigeons on the trees which overhung the river, and we shot and + picked up as many as we thought we could use for food. When we + fired our guns the echoes rolled up and down the river for + miles making the feeling of loneliness still more keen, as the + sound died faintly away. We floated along generally very + quietly. We could see the fish dart under our boat from their + feeding places along the bank, and now and then some tall + crane would spread his broad wings to get out of our way.<br> + </p> + <p>We saw no houses for several days, and seldom went on + shore. The forest was all hard wood, such as oak, ash, walnut, + maple, elm and beech. Farther down we occasionally passed the + house of some pioneer hunter or trapper, with a small patch + cleared. At one of these a big green boy came down to the bank + to see who we were. We said "How d'you do," to him, + and, getting no response, Henry asked him how far is was to + Michigan, at which a look of supreme disgust came over his + features as he replied—"'Taint no far at + all."<br> + </p> + <p>The stream grew wider as we advanced along its downward + course, for smaller streams came pouring in to swell its tide. + The banks were still covered with heavy timber, and in some + places with quite thick undergrowth. One day we saw a black + bear in the river washing himself, but he went ashore before + we were near enough to get a sure shot at him. Many deer + tracks were seen along the shore, but as we saw very few of + the animals themselves, they were probably night visitors.<br> + </p> + <p>One day we overtook some canoes containing Indians, men, + women and children. They were poling their craft around in all + directions spearing fish. They caught many large mullet and + then went on shore and made camp, and the red ladies began + scaling the fish. As soon as their lords and masters had + unloaded the canoes, a party started out with four of the + boats, two men in a boat, to try their luck again. They ranged + all abreast, and moved slowly down the stream in the still + deep water, continually beating the surface with their spear + handles, till they came to a place so shallow that they could + see the bottom easily, when they suddenly turned the canoes + head up stream, and while one held the craft steady by + sticking his spear handle down on the bottom, the other stood + erect, with a foot on either gunwale so he could see whatever + came down on either side. Soon the big fish would try to pass, + but Mr. Indian had too sharp an eye to let him escape + unobserved, and when he came within his reach he would turn + his spear and throw it like a dart, seldom missing his aim. + The poor fish would struggle desperately, but soon came to the + surface, when he would be drawn in and knocked in the head + with a tomahawk to quiet him, when the spear was cut out and + the process repeated. We watched them about an hour, and + during that time some one of the boats was continually hauling + in a fish. They were sturgeon and very large. This was the + first time we had ever seen the Indian's way of catching fish + and it was a new way of getting grub for us. When the canoes + had full loads they paddled up toward their camp, and we + drifted on again.<br> + </p> + <p>When we came to Grand Rapids we had to go on shore and tow + our boat carefully along over the many rocks to prevent + accident. Here was a small cheap looking town. On the west + bank of the river a water wheel was driving a drill boring for + salt water, it seemed through solid rock. Up to this time the + current was slow, and its course through a dense forest. We + occasionally saw an Indian gliding around in his canoe, but no + houses or clearings. Occasionally we saw some pine logs which + had been floated down some of the streams of the north. One of + these small rivers they called the "Looking-glass," + and seemed to be the largest of them.<br> + </p> + <p>Passing on we began to see some pine timber, and realized + that we were near the mouth of the river where it emptied into + Lake Michigan. There were some steam saw mills here, not then + in operation, and some houses for the mill hands to live in + when they were at work. This prospective city was called Grand + Haven. There was one schooner in the river loaded with lumber, + ready to sail for the west side of the lake as soon as the + wind should change and become favorable, and we engaged + passage for a dollar and a half each. While waiting for the + wind we visited the woods in search of game, but found none. + All the surface of the soil was clear lake sand, and some + quite large pine and hemlock trees were half buried in it. We + were not pleased with this place for it looked as if folks + must get their grub from somewhere else or live on fish.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning we were off early, as the wind had changed, + but the lake was very rough and a heavy choppy sea was + running. Before we were half way across the lake nearly all + were sea-sick, passengers and sailors. The poor fellow at the + helm stuck to his post casting up his accounts at the same + time, putting on an air of terrible misery.<br> + </p> + <p>This, I thought was pretty hard usage for a land-lubber + like myself who had never been on such rough water before. The + effect of this sea-sickness was to cure me of a slight fever + and ague, and in fact the cure was so thorough that I have + never had it since. As we neared the western shore a few + houses could be seen, and the captain said it was Southport. + As there was no wharf our schooner put out into the lake again + for an hour or so and then ran back again, lying off and on in + this manner all night. In the morning it was quite calm and we + went on shore in the schooner's yawl, landing on a sandy + beach. We left our chest of clothes and other things in a + warehouse and shouldered our packs and guns for a march across + what seemed an endless prairie stretching to the west. We had + spent all our lives thus far in a country where all the + clearing had to be made with an axe, and such a broad field + was to us an entirely new feature. We laid our course westward + and tramped on. The houses were very far apart, and we tried + at every one of them for a chance to work, but could get none, + not even if we would work for our board. The people all seemed + to be new settlers, and very poor, compelled to do their own + work until a better day could be reached. The coarse meals we + got were very reasonable, generally only ten cents, but + sometimes a little more.<br> + </p> + <p>As we travelled westward the prairies seemed smaller with + now and then some oak openings between. Some of the farms + seemed to be three or four years old, and what had been laid + out as towns consisted of from three to six houses, small and + cheap, with plenty of vacant lots. The soil looked rich, as + though it might be very productive. We passed several small + lakes that had nice fish in them, and plenty of ducks on the + surface.<br> + </p> + <p>Walking began to get pretty tiresome. Great blisters would + come on our feet, and, tender as they were, it was a great + relief to take off our boots and go barefoot for a while when + the ground was favorable. We crossed a wide prairie and came + down to the Rock river where there were a few houses on the + east side but no signs of habitation on the west bank. We + crossed the river in a canoe and then walked seven miles + before we came to a house where we staid all night and + inquired for work. None was to be had and so we tramped on + again. The next day we met a real live Yankee with a one-horse + wagon, peddling tin ware in regular Eastern style. We inquired + of him about the road and prospects, and he gave us an + encouraging idea—said all was good. He told us where to + stop the next night at a small town called Sugar Creek. It had + but a few houses and was being built up as a mining town, for + some lead ore had been found there. There were as many Irish + as English miners here, a rough class of people. We put up at + the house where we had been directed, a low log cabin, rough + and dirty, kept by Bridget & Co. Supper was had after dark + and the light on the table was just the right one for the + place, a saucer of grease, with a rag in it lighted and + burning at the edge of the saucer. It at least served to made + the darkness apparent and to prevent the dirt being visible. + We had potatoes, beans and tea, and probably dirt too, if we + could have seen it. When the meal was nearly done Bridget + brought in and deposited on each plate a good thick pancake as + a dessert. It smelled pretty good, but when I drew my knife + across it to cut it in two, all the center was uncooked + batter, which ran out upon my plate, and spoiled my + supper.<br> + </p> + <p>We went to bed and soon found it had other occupants beside + ourselves, which, if they were small were lively and spoiled + our sleeping. We left before breakfast, and a few miles out on + the prairie we came to a house occupied by a woman and one + child, and we were told we could have breakfast if we could + wait to have it cooked. Everything looked cheap but cheery, + and after waiting a little while outside we were called in to + eat. The meal consisted of corn bread, bacon, potatoes and + coffee. It was well cooked and looked better than things did + at Bridget's. I enjoyed all but the coffee, which had a rich + brown color, but when I sipped it there was such a bitter + taste I surely thought there must be quinine in it, and it + made me shiver. I tried two or three times to drink but it was + too much for me and I left it. We shouldered our loads and + went on again. I asked Henry what kind of a drink it was. + "Coffee," said he, but I had never seen any that + tasted like that and never knew my father to buy any such + coffee as that.<br> + </p> + <p>We labored along and in time came to another small place + called Hamilton's Diggings where some lead mines were being + worked. We stopped at a long, low log house with a porch the + entire length, and called for bread and milk, which was soon + set before us. The lady was washing and the man was playing + with a child on the porch. The little thing was trying to + walk, the man would swear terribly at it—not in an angry + way, but in a sort of careless, blasphemous style that was + terribly shocking. I thought of the child being reared in the + midst of such bad language and reflected on the kind of people + we were meeting in this far away place. They seemed more + wicked and profane the farther west we walked. I had always + lived in a more moral and temperate atmosphere, and I was + learning more of some things in the world than I had ever + known before. I had little to say and much to see and listen + to and my early precepts were not forgotten. No work was to be + had here and we set out across the prairie toward Mineral + Point, twenty miles away. When within four miles of that place + we stopped at the house of Daniel Parkinson, a fine looking + two-story building, and after the meal was over Mr. Henry + hired out to him for $16 per month, and went to work that day. + I heard of a job of cutting cordwood six miles away and went + after it, for our money was getting very scarce, but when I + reached the place I found a man had been there half an hour + before and secured the job. The proprietor, Mr. Crow, gave me + my dinner which I accepted with many thanks, for it saved my + coin to pay for the next meal. I now went to Mineral Point, + and searched the town over for work. My purse contained + thirty-five cents only and I slept in an unoccupied out house + without supper. I bought crackers and dried beef for ten cents + in the morning and made my first meal since the day before, + felt pretty low-spirited. I then went to Vivian's smelting + furnace where they bought lead ore, smelted it, and run it + into pigs of about 70 pounds each. He said he had a job for me + if I could do it. The furnace was propelled by water and they + had a small buzz saw for cutting four-foot wood into blocks + about a foot long. These blocks they wanted split up in pieces + about an inch square to mix in with charcoal in smelting ore. + He said he would board me with the other men, and give me a + dollar and a quarter a cord for splitting the wood. I felt + awfully poor, and a stranger, and this was a beginning for me + at any rate, so I went to work with a will and never lost a + minute of daylight till I had split up all the wood and filled + his woodhouse completely up. The board was very + coarse—bacon, potatoes, and bread—a man cook, and + bread mixed up with salt and water. The old log house where we + lodged was well infested with troublesome insects which worked + nights at any rate, whether they rested days or not, and the + beds had a mild odor of pole cat. The house was long, low and + without windows. In one end was a fireplace, and there were + two tiers of bunks on each side, supplied with straw only. In + the space between the bunks was a stationary table, with + stools for seats. I was the only American who boarded there + and I could not well become very familiar with the + boarders.<br> + </p> + <p>The country was rolling, and there were many beautiful + brooks and clear springs of water, with fertile soil. The + Cornish miners were in the majority and governed the locality + politically. My health was excellent, and so long as I had my + gun and ammunition I could kill game enough to live on, for + prairie chickens and deer could be easily killed, and meat + alone would sustain life, so I had no special fears of + starvation. I was now paid off, and went back to see my + companion, Mr. Henry. I did not hear of any more work, so I + concluded I would start back toward my old home in Michigan, + and shouldered my bundle and gun, turning my face eastward for + a long tramp across the prairie. I knew I had a long tramp + before me, but I thought best to head that way, for my capital + was only ten dollars, and I might be compelled to walk the + whole distance. I walked till about noon and then sat down in + the shade of a tree to rest for this was June and pretty warm. + I was now alone in a big territory, thinly settled, and + thought of my father's home, the well set table, all happy and + well fed at any rate, and here was my venture, a sort of + forlorn hope. Prospects were surely very gloomy for me here + away out west in Wisconsin Territory, without a relative, + friend or acquaintance to call upon, and very small means to + travel two hundred and fifty miles of lonely + road—perhaps all the way on foot. There were no laborers + required, hardly any money in sight, and no chance for + business. I knew it would be a safe course to proceed toward + home, for I had no fear of starving, the weather was warm and + I could easily walk home long before winter should come again. + Still the outlook was not very pleasing to one in my + circumstances.<br> + </p> + <p>I chose a route which led me some distance north of the one + we travelled when we came west, but it was about the same. + Every house was a new settler, and hardly one who had yet + produced anything to live upon. In due time I came to the Rock + River, and the only house in sight was upon the east bank. I + could see a boat over there and so I called for it, and a + young girl came over with a canoe for me. I took a paddle and + helped her hold the boat against the current, and we made the + landing safely. I paid her ten cents for ferriage and went on + again. The country was now level, with burr-oak openings. Near + sundown I came to a small prairie of about 500 acres + surrounded by scattering burr-oak timber, with not a hill in + sight, and it seemed to me to be the most beautiful spot on + earth. This I found to belong to a man named Meachem, who had + an octagon concrete house built on one side of the opening. + The house had a hollow column in the center, and the roof was + so constructed that all the rain water went down this central + column into a cistern below for house use. The stairs wound + around this central column, and the whole affair was quite + different from the most of settlers' houses. I staid here all + night, had supper and breakfast, and paid my bill of + thirty-five cents. He had no work for me so I went on again. I + crossed Heart Prairie, passed through a strip of woods, and + out at Round Prairie. It was level as a floor with a slight + rise in one corner, and on it were five or six settlers. Here + fortune favored me, for here I found a man whom I knew, who + once lived in Michigan, and was one of our neighbors there for + some time. His name was Nelson Cornish. I rested here a few + days, and made a bargain to work for him two or three days + every week for my board as long as I wished to stay. As I got + acquainted I found some work to do and many of my leisure + hours I spent in the woods with my gun, killing some deer, + some of the meat of which I sold. In haying and harvest I got + some work at fifty cents to one dollar per day, and as I had + no clothes to buy, I spent no money, saving up about fifty + dollars by fall. I then got a letter from Henry saying that I + could get work with him for the winter and I thought I would + go back there again.<br> + </p> + <p>Before thinking of going west again I had to go to + Southport on the lake and get our clothes we had left in our + box when we passed in the spring. So I started one morning at + break of day, with a long cane in each hand to help me along, + for I had nothing to carry, not even wearing a coat. This was + a new road, thinly settled, and a few log houses building. I + got a bowl of bread and milk at noon and then hurried on + again. The last twenty miles was clear prairie, and houses + were very far apart, but little more thickly settled as I + neared Lake Michigan. I arrived at the town just after dark, + and went to a tavern and inquired about the things. I was told + that the warehouse had been broken into and robbed, and the + proprietor had fled for parts unknown. This robbed me of all + my good clothes, and I could now go back as lightly loaded as + when I came. I found I had walked sixty miles in that one day, + and also found myself very stiff and sore so that I did not + start back next day, and I took three days for the return + trip—a very unprofitable journey.<br> + </p> + <p>I was now ready to go west, and coming across a pet deer + which I had tamed, I knew if I left it it would wander away + with the first wild ones that came along, and so I killed it + and made my friends a present of some venison. I chose still a + new route this time, that I could see all that was possible of + this big territory when I could do it so easily. I was always + a great admirer of Nature and things which remained as they + were created, and to the extent of my observation, I thought + this the most beautiful and perfect country I had seen between + Vermont and the Mississippi River. The country was nearly + level, the land rich, the prairies small with oak openings + surrounding them, very little marsh land and streams of clear + water. Rock River was the largest of these, running south. + Next west was Sugar River, then the Picatonica. Through the + mining region the country was rolling and abundantly watered + with babbling brooks and health-giving springs.<br> + </p> + <p>In point of health it seemed to me to be far better than + Michigan. In Mr. Henry's letter to me he had said that he had + taken a timber claim in "Kentuck Grove," and had all + the four-foot wood engaged to cut at thirty-seven cents a + cord. He said we could board ourselves and save a little money + and that in the spring he would go back to Michigan with me. + This had decided me to go back to Mineral Point. I stopped a + week or two with a man named Webb, hunting with him, and sold + game enough to bring me in some six or seven dollars, and then + resumed my journey.<br> + </p> + <p>On my way I found a log house ten miles from a neighbor + just before I got to the Picatonica River. It belonged to a + Mr. Shook who, with his wife and three children, lived on the + edge of a small prairie, and had a good crop of corn. He + invited me to stay with him a few days, and as I was tired I + accepted his offer and we went out together and brought in a + deer. We had plenty of corn bread, venison and coffee, and + lived well. After a few days he wanted to kill a steer and he + led it to a proper place while I shot it in the head. We had + no way to hang it up so he rolled the intestines out, and I + sat down with my side against the steer and helped him to pull + the tallow off.<br> + </p> + <p>It was now getting nearly dark and while he was splitting + the back bone with an axe, it slipped in his greasy hands and + glancing, cut a gash in my leg six inches above the knee. I + was now laid up for two or three weeks, but was well cared for + at his house. Before I could resume my journey snow had fallen + to the depth of about six inches, which made it rather + unpleasant walking, but in a few days I reached Mr. Henry's + camp in "Kentuck Grove," when after comparing notes, + we both began swinging our axes and piling up cordwood, + cooking potatoes, bread, bacon, coffee and flapjacks + ourselves, which we enjoyed with a relish.<br> + </p> + <p>I now went to work for Peter Parkinson, who paid me + thirteen dollars per month, and I remained with him till + spring. While with him a very sad affliction came to him in + the loss of his wife. He was presented by her with his first + heir, and during her illness she was cared for by her mother, + Mrs. Cullany, who had come to live with them during the + winter. When the little babe was two or three weeks old the + mother was feeling in such good spirits that she was left + alone a little while, as Mrs. Cullany was attending to some + duties which called her elsewhere. When she returned she was + surprised to see that both Mrs. Parkinson and the babe were + gone. Everyone turned out to search for her. I ran to the + smokehouse, the barn, the stable in quick order, and not + finding her a search was made for tracks, and we soon + discovered that she had passed over a few steps leading over a + fence and down an incline toward the spring house, and there + fallen, face downward, on the floor of the house which was + covered only a few inches deep with water lay the unfortunate + woman and her child, both dead. This was doubly distressing to + Mr. Parkinson and saddened the whole community. Both were + buried in one grave, not far from the house, and a more + impressive funeral I never beheld.<br> + </p> + <p>I now worked awhile again with Mr. Henry and we sold our + wood to Bill Park, a collier, who made and sold charcoal to + the smelters of lead ore. When the ice was gone in the + streams, Henry and I shouldered our guns and bundles, and made + our way to Milwaukee, where we arrived in the course of a few + days. The town was small and cheaply built, and had no wharf, + so that when the steamboat came we had to go out to it in a + small boat. The stream which came in here was too shallow for + the steamer to enter. When near the lower end of the lake we + stopped at an island to take on food and several cords of + white birch wood. The next stopping place was at + Michilamackanac, afterward called Mackinaw. Here was a short + wharf, and a little way back a hill, which seemed to me to be + a thousand feet high, on which a fort had been built. On the + wharf was a mixed lot of people—Americans, Canadians, + Irish, Indians, squaws and papooses. I saw there some of the + most beautiful fish I had ever seen. They would weigh twenty + pounds or more, and had bright red and yellow spots all over + them. They called them trout, and they were beauties, really. + At the shore near by the Indians were loading a large white + birch bark canoe, putting their luggage along the middle + lengthways, and the papooses on top. One man took a stern seat + to steer, and four or five more had seats along the gunwale as + paddlers and, as they moved away, their strokes were as even + and regular as the motions of an engine, and their crafts + danced as lightly on the water as an egg shell. They were + starting for the Michigan shore some eight or ten miles away. + This was the first birch bark canoe I had ever seen and was a + great curiosity in my eyes.<br> + </p> + <p>We crossed Lake Huron during the night, and through its + outlet, so shallow that the wheels stirred up the mud from the + bottom; then through Lake St. Clair and landed safety at + Detroit next day. Here we took the cars on the Michigan + Central Railroad, and on our way westward stopped at the very + place where we had worked, helping to build the road, a year + or more before. After getting off the train a walk of two and + one half miles brought me to my father's house, where I had a + right royal welcome, and the questions they asked me about the + wild country I had traveled over, how it looked, and how I got + along—were numbered by the thousand.<br> + </p> + <p>I remained at home until fall, getting some work to do by + which I saved some money, but in August was attacked with + bilious fever, which held me down for several weeks, but + nursed by a tender and loving mother with untiring care, I + recovered, quite slowly, but surely. I felt that I had been + close to death, and that this country was not to be compared + to Wisconsin with its clear and bubbling springs of + health-giving water. Feeling thus, I determined to go back + there again.<br><br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=120 alt="" src="images/ch_05.png" width=122 border=0> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-57841"></a>CHAPTER VI.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>With the idea of returning to Wisconsin I made plans for my + movements. I purchased a good outfit of steel traps of several + kinds and sizes, thirty or forty in all, made me a pine chest, + with a false bottom to separate the traps from my clothing + when it was packed in traveling order, the clothes at the top. + My former experience had taught me not to expect to get work + there during winter, but I was pretty sure something could be + earned by trapping and hunting at this season, and in summer I + was pretty sure of something to do. I had about forty dollars + to travel on this time, and quite a stock of experience. The + second parting from home was not so hard as the first one. I + went to Huron, took the steamer to Chicago, then a small, + cheaply built town, with rough sidewalks and terribly muddy + streets, and the people seemed pretty rough, for sailors and + lake captains were numerous, and knock downs quite frequent. + The country for a long way west of town seemed a low, wet + marsh or prairie.<br> + </p> + <p>Finding a man going west with a wagon and two horses + without a load, I hired him to take me and my baggage to my + friend Nelson Cornish, at Round Prairie. They were glad to see + me, and as I had not yet got strong from my fever, they + persuaded me to stay a while with them and take some medicine, + for he was a sort of a doctor. I think he must have given me a + dose of calomel, for I had a terribly sore mouth and could not + eat any for two or three weeks. As soon as I was able to + travel I had myself and chest taken to the stage station on + the line for the lake to Mineral Point. I think this place was + called Geneva. On the stage I got along pretty fast, and part + of the time on a new road. The first place of note was Madison + the capital of the territory, situated on a block of land + nearly surrounded by four lakes, all plainly seen from the big + house. Further on at the Blue Mounds I left the stage, putting + my chest in the landlord's keeping till I should come or send + for it.<br> + </p> + <p>I walked about ten miles to the house of a friend named A. + Bennett, who was a hunter and lived on the bank of the + Picatonica River with his wife and two children. I had to take + many a rest on the way, for I was very weak.<br> + </p> + <p>Resting the first few days, Mrs. Bennett's father, Mr. J.P. + Dilly, took us out about six miles and left us to hunt and + camp for a few days. We were quite successful, and killed five + nice, fat deer, which we dressed and took to Mineral Point, + selling them rapidly to the Cornish miners for twenty-five + cents a quarter for the meat. We followed this business till + about January first, when the game began to get poor, when we + hung up our guns for a while. I had a little money left yet. + The only money in circulation was American silver and British + sovereigns. They would not sell lead ore for paper money nor + on credit. During the spring I used my traps successfully, so + that I saved something over board and expenses.<br> + </p> + <p>In summer I worked in the mines with Edwin Buck of + Bucksport, Maine, but only found lead ore enough to pay our + expenses in getting it. Next winter I chopped wood for + thirty-five cents per cord and boarded myself. This was poor + business; poorer than hunting. In summer I found work at + various things, but in the fall Mr. Buck and myself concluded + that as we were both hunters and trappers, we would go + northward toward Lake Superior on a hunting expedition, and, + perhaps remain all winter. We replenished our outfit, and + engaged Mr. Bennett to take us well up into the north country. + We crossed the Wisconsin River near Muscoda, went then to + Prairie du Chien, where we found a large stone fur trading + house, owned by Mr. Brisbois, a Frenchman, from whom we + obtained some information of the country further on. He + assured us there was no danger from the Indians if we let them + alone and treated them fairly.<br> + </p> + <p>We bought fifty pounds of flour for each of us, and then + started up the divide between the Wisconsin and Mississippi + Rivers. On one side flowed the Bad River, and on the other the + Kickapoo. We traveled on this divide about three days, when + Mr. Bennett became afraid to go any further, as he had to + return alone and the Indians might capture him before he could + get back to the settlement. We camped early one night and went + out hunting to get some game for him. I killed a large, black + bear and Mr. Bennett took what he wanted of it, including the + skin, and started back next morning.<br> + </p> + <p>We now cachéd our things in various places, + scattering them well. Some went in hollow logs, and some under + heaps of brush or other places, where the Indians could not + find them. We then built a small cabin about six by eight feet + in size and four feet high, in shape like a A. We were not + thoroughly pleased with this location and started out to + explore the country to the north of us, for we had an idea + that it would be better hunting there.<br> + </p> + <p>The first day we started north we killed a bear, and filled + our stomachs with the fat, sweet meat. The next night we + killed another bear after a little struggling. The dog made + him climb a tree and we shot at him; he would fall to the + ground as if dead, but would be on his feet again in an + instant, when, after the dog had fastened to his ham, he would + climb the tree again. In the third trial he lay in the fork + and had a good chance to look square at his tormentor. I shot + him in the head, and as he lay perfectly still, Buck + said:—"Now you have done it—we can't get + him." But in a moment he began to struggle, and soon came + down, lifeless.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we camped on the edge of the pine forest, ate all the + fat bear meat we could, and in the morning took separate + routes, agreeing to meet again a mile or so farther up a small + brook. I soon saw a small bear walking on a log and shot him + dead. His mate got away, but I set my dog on him and he soon + had to climb a tree. When I came up to where the dog was + barking I saw Mr. Bear and fired a ball in him that brought + him down. Just then I heard Mr. Buck shoot close by, and I + went to him and found he had killed another and larger bear. + We stayed here another night, dressed our game and sunk the + meat in the brook and fastened it down, thinking we might want + to get some of it another time.<br> + </p> + <p>We were so well pleased with this hunting ground that we + took the bear skins and went back to camp. When we got there + our clothes were pretty well saturated with bear's oil, and we + jokingly said it must have soaked through our bodies, we had + eaten so much bear meat. I began to feel quite sick, and had a + bad headache. I felt as if something must be done, but we had + no medicine. Mr. Buck went down by the creek and dug some + roots he called Indian Physic, then steeped them until the + infusion seemed as black as molasses, and, when cool told me + to take a swallow every fifteen minutes for an hour, then half + as much for another hour as long as I could keep it down. I + followed directions and vomited freely and for a long time, + but felt better afterward, and soon got well. It reminded me + some of the feelings I had when I was seasick on Lake + Michigan.<br> + </p> + <p>It may be interesting to describe how we were dressed to + enter on this winter campaign. We wore moccasins of our own + make. I had a buckskin jumper, and leggins that came up to my + hips. On my head a drab hat that fitted close and had a rim + about two inches wide. In fair weather I went bare-headed, + Indian fashion. I carried a tomahawk which I had made. The + blade was two inches wide and three inches long—the poll + two inches long and about as large round as a dime; handle + eighteen or twenty inches long with a knob on the end so it + would not easily slip from the hand. Oiled patches for our + rifle balls on a string, a firing wire, a charger to measure + the powder, and a small piece of leather with four nipples on + it for caps—all on my breast, so that I could load very + rapidly. My bed was a comfort I made myself, a little larger + than usual. I lay down on one side of the bed and with my gun + close to me, turned the blanket over me. When out of camp I + never left my gun out of my reach. We had to be real Indians + in custom and actions in order to be considered their equals. + We got our food in the same way they did, and so they had + nothing to ask us for. They considered themselves the real + kings of the forest.<br> + </p> + <p>We now determined to move camp, which proved quite a job as + we had to pack everything on our backs; which we did for ten + or fifteen miles to the bank of a small stream where there + were three pine trees, the only ones to be found in many + miles. We made us a canoe of one of them. While we were making + the canoe three Indians came along, and after they had eaten + some of our good venison, they left us. These were the first + we had seen, and we began to be more cautious and keep + everything well hid away from camp and make them think we were + as poor as they were, so they might not be tempted to molest + us.<br> + </p> + <p>We soon had the canoe done and loaded, and embarked on the + brook down stream. We found it rather difficult work, but the + stream grew larger and we got along very well. We came to one + place where otter signs seemed fresh, and stopped to set a + trap for them. Our dog sat on the bank and watched the + operation, and when we started on we could not get him to ride + or follow. Soon we heard him cry and went back to find he had + the trap on his fore foot. To get it off we had to put a + forked stick over his neck and hold him down, he was so + excited over his mishap. When he was released he left at full + speed and was never seen by us after.<br> + </p> + <p>When we got well into the pine woods we camped and cached + our traps and provisions on an island, and made our camp + further down the stream and some little distance from the + shore. We soon found this was very near a logging camp, and as + no one had been living there for a year, we moved camp down + there and occupied one of the empty cabins. We began to set + dead-fall traps in long lines in many different directions, + blazing the trees so we could find them if the snow came on. + West of this about ten miles, where we had killed some deer + earlier, we made a A-shaped cabin and made dead falls many + miles around to catch fishes, foxes, mink and raccoons. We + made weekly journeys to the places and generally staid about + two nights.<br> + </p> + <p>One day when going over my trap lines I came to a trap + which I had set where I had killed a deer, and saw by the snow + that an eagle had been caught in the trap and had broken the + chain and gone away. I followed on the trail he made and soon + found him. He tried to fly but the trap was too heavy, and he + could only go slowly and a little way. I fired and put a ball + in him and he fell and rolled under a large log on the + hillside. As I took the trap off I saw an Indian coming down + the hill and brought my gun to bear on him. He stopped + suddenly and made signs not to shoot, and I let him come up. + He made signs that he wanted the feathers of the bird which I + told him to take, and then he wanted to know where we slept. I + pointed out the way and made him go ahead of me there, for I + did not want him behind me. At camp he made signs for + something to eat, but when I showed him meat he shook his + head. However he took a leg of deer and started on, I + following at a good distance till satisfied that he would not + come back.<br> + </p> + <p>We had not taken pains to keep track of the day of the week + or month; the rising and setting of the sun and the changes of + the moon were all the almanacs we had. Then snow came about a + foot deep, and some days were so cold we could not leave our + camp fire at all. As no Indians appeared we were quite + successful and kept our bundle of furs in a hollow standing + tree some distance from camp, and when we went that way we + never stopped or left any sign that we had a deposit + there.<br> + </p> + <p>Some time after it was all frozen up solid, some men with + two yoke of oxen came up to cut and put logs in the river to + raft down when the ice went out. With them came a shingle + weaver, with a pony and a small sled, and some Indians also. + We now had to take up all of our steel traps, and rob all our + dead-falls and quit business generally—even then they + got some of our traps before we could get them gathered in. We + were now comparatively idle.<br> + </p> + <p>Until these loggers came we did not know exactly where we + were situated, but they told us we were on the Lemonai river, + a branch of the Wisconsin, and that we could get out by going + west till we found the Mississippi river and then home. We + hired the shengle man with his pony to take us to Black River, + farther north which we reached in three days, and found a saw + mill there in charge of a keeper. Up the river farther we + found another mill looked after by Sam Ferguson. Both mills + were frozen up. The Indians had been here all winter. They + come from Lake Superior when the swamps froze up there, to + hunt deer, till the weather gets warm, then they returned to + the Lake to fish.<br> + </p> + <p>Of course the presence of the Indians made game scarce, but + the mill men told us if we would go up farther into the marten + country they thought we would do well. We therefore made us a + hand sled, put some provisions and traps on board, and started + up the river on the ice. As we went the snow grew deeper and + we had to cut hemlock boughs for a bed on top of the snow. It + took about a half a cord of wood to last us all night, and it + was a trouble to cut holes in the ice to water, for it was + more than two feet thick. Our fire kindled on the snow, would + be two or three feet below on the ground, by morning. This + country was heavily timbered with cedar, or spruce and + apparently very level.<br> + </p> + <p>One day we saw two otters coming toward us on the ice. We + shot one, but as the other gun missed fire, the other one + escaped, for I could not overtake it in the woods. We kept on + up the river till we began to hear the Indians' guns, and then + we camped and did not fire a gun for two days, for we were + afraid we might be discovered and robbed, and we knew we could + not stay long after our grub was gone. All the game we could + catch was the marten or sable, which the Indians called + <i>Waubusash</i>. The males were snuff color and the female + much darker. Mink were scarce, and the beaver, living in the + river bank, could not be got at till the ice went out in the + spring.<br> + </p> + <p>We now began to make marten traps or dead-falls, and set + them for this small game. There were many cedar and tamarack + swamps, indeed that was the principal feature, but there were + some ridges a little higher where some small pines and beech + grew. Now our camp was one place where there was no large + timber caused by the stream being dammed by the beaver. Here + were some of the real Russian Balsam trees, the most beautiful + in shape I had ever seen. They were very dark green, the + boughs very thick, and the tree in shape like an inverted top. + Our lines of trips led for miles in every direction marked by + blazed trees. We made a trap of two poles, and chips which we + split from the trees. These were set in the snow and covered + with brush. We sometimes found a porcupine in the top of a + pine tree. The only signs of his presence were the chips he + made in gnawing the bark for food. They never came down to the + ground as we saw. They were about all the game that was good + to eat. I would kill one, skin it and drag the carcass after + me all day as I set traps, cutting off bits for bait, and + cooking the rest for ourselves to eat. We tried to eat the + marten but it was pretty musky and it was only by putting on + plenty of salt and pepper that we managed to eat them. We were + really forced to do it if we remained here. We secured a good + many of these little fellows which have about the the best fur + that is found in America.<br> + </p> + <p>We were here about three weeks, and our provisions giving + out and the ice becoming tender in the swamp were two pretty + strong reasons for our getting out, so we shouldered our packs + of fur and our guns and, getting our course from a + pocket-compass, we started out. As we pushed on we came to + some old windfalls that were troublesome to get through. The + dense timber seemed to be six feet deep, and we would + sometimes climb over and sometimes crawl under, the fallen + trees were so thickly mixed and tangled.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Buck got so completely tired that he threw away his + traps. We reached our starting place at O'Neil's saw-mill + after many days of the hardest work, and nearly starved, for + we had seen no game on our trip. We found our traps and furs + all safe here and as this stream was one of the tributaries of + the Mississippi, we decided to make us a boat and float down + toward that noted stream. We secured four good boards and + built the boat in which we started down the river setting + traps and moving at our leisure. We found plenty of fine + ducks, two bee trees, and caught some cat-fish with a hook and + line we got at the mill. We also caught some otter, and, on a + little branch of the river killed two bears, the skin of one + of them weighing five pounds. We met a keel boat being poled + up the river, and with the last cent of money we possessed + bought a little flour of them.<br> + </p> + <p>About the first of May we reached Prairie du Chien. Here we + were met with some surprise, for Mr. Brisbois said he had + heard we were killed or lost. He showed us through his + warehouses and pointed out to us the many bales of different + kinds of furs he had on hand. He told us we were the best fur + handlers he had seen, and paid us two hundred dollars in + American gold for what we had. We then stored our traps in the + garret of one of his warehouses, which was of stone, two + stories and an attic, as we thought of making another trip to + this country if all went well.<br> + </p> + <p>We now entered our skiff again and went on down the great + river till we came to a place nearly opposite Mineral Point, + when we gave our boat to a poor settler, and with guns and + bundles on our backs took a straight shoot for home on foot. + The second day about dark we came in the edge of the town and + were seen by a lot of boys who eyed us closely and with much + curiosity, for we were dressed in our trapping suits. They + followed us, and as we went along the crowd increased so that + when we got to Crum. Lloyd's tavern the door was full of boys' + heads looking at us as if we were a circus. Here we were + heartily welcomed, and every body was glad to see us, as they + were about to start a company to go in search of their + reported murdered friends. It seems a missionary got lost on + his way to Prairie La Crosse and had come across our deserted + cabin, and when he came in he reported us as no doubt + murdered.<br> + </p> + <p>I invested all of my hundred dollars in buying eighty acres + of good Government land. This was the first $100 I ever had + and I felt very proud to be a land owner. I felt a little more + like a man now than I had ever felt before, for the money was + hard earned and all mine.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=173 alt="" src="images/ch_06.png" width=185 border=0><br> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-44899"></a>CHAPTER VII.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Mr. Buck and myself concluded we would try our luck at lead + mining for the summer and purchased some mining tools for the + purpose. We camped out and dug holes around all summer, + getting just about enough to pay our expenses—not a very + encouraging venture, for we had lived in a tent and had picked + and shoveled and blasted and twisted a windlass hard enough to + have earned a good bit of money.<br> + </p> + <p>In the fall we concluded to try another trapping tour, and + set out for Prairie du Chien. We knew it was a poor place to + spend money up in the woods, and when we got our money it was + all in a lump and seemed to amount to something. Mr. Brisbois + said that the prospects were very poor indeed, for the price + of fur was very low and no prospect of a better market. So we + left our traps still on storage at his place and went back + again. This was in 1847, and before Spring the war was being + pushed in Mexico. I tried to enlist for this service, but + there were so many ahead of me I could not get a chance.<br> + </p> + <p>I still worked in the settlement and made a living, but had + no chance to improve my land. The next winter I lived with Mr + A. Bennett, hunted deer and sold them at Mineral Point, and in + this way made and saved a few dollars.<br> + </p> + <p>There had been from time to time rumors of a better country + to the west of us and a sort of a pioneer, or western fever + would break out among the people occasionally. Thus in 1845 I + had a slight touch of the disease on account of the stories + they told us about Oregon. It was reported that the Government + would give a man a good farm if he would go and settle, and + make some specified improvement. They said it was in a + territory of rich soil, with plenty of timber, fish and game + and some Indians, just to give a little spice of adventure to + the whole thing. The climate was very mild in winter, as they + reported, and I concluded it would suit me exactly. I began at + once to think about an outfit and a journey, and I found that + it would take me at least two years to get ready. A trip to + California was not thought of in those days, for it did not + belong to the United States.<br> + </p> + <p>In the winter of 1848-49 news began to come that there was + gold in California, but not generally believed till it came + through a U.S. officer, and then, as the people were used to + mines and mining, a regular gold fever spread as if by swift + contagion. Mr. Bennett was aroused and sold his farm, and I + felt a change in my Oregon desires and had dreams at might of + digging up the yellow dust. Nothing would cure us then but a + trip, and that was quickly decided on.<br> + </p> + <p>As it would be some weeks yet before grass would start, I + concluded to haul my canoe and a few traps over to a branch of + the Wisconsin, and make my way to Prairie du Chien, do a + little trapping, get me an Indian pony on which to ride to + California. There were no ponies to be had at Mineral Point. + Getting a ride up the river on a passing steamboat I reached + Prairie La Crosse, where the only house was that of a Dutch + trader from whom I bought a Winnebago pony, which he had + wintered on a little brushy island, and I thought if he could + winter on brush and rushes he must be tough enough to take me + across the plains. He cost me $30, and I found him to be a + poor, lazy little fellow. However, I thought that when he got + some good grass, and a little fat on his ribs he might have + more life, and so I hitched a rope to him and drove him ahead + down the river. When I came to the Bad Axe river I found it + swimming full, but had no trouble in crossing, as the pony was + as good as a dog in the water.<br> + </p> + <p>Before leaving Bennett's I had my gun altered over to a + pill lock and secured ammunition to last for two years. I had + tanned some nice buckskin and had a good outfit of clothes + made of it, or rather cut and made it myself. Where I crossed + the Bad Axe was a the battle ground where Gen. Dodge fought + the Winnebago Indians. At Prairie du Chien I found a letter + from Mr. Bennett, saying that the grass was so backward he + would not start up for two or three weeks, and I had better + come back and start with them; but as the letter bore no date + I could only guess at the exact time. I had intended to strike + directly west from here to Council Bluffs and meet them there, + but now thought perhaps I had better go back to Mineral Point + and start out with them there, or follow on rapidly after them + if by any chance they had already started.<br> + </p> + <p>On my way back I found the Kickapoo river too high to ford, + so I pulled some basswood bark and made a raft of a couple of + logs, on which to carry my gun and blanket; starting the pony + across I followed after. He swam across quickly, but did not + seem to like it on the other side, so before I got across, + back he came again, not paying the least attention to my + scolding. I went back with the raft, which drifted a good way + down stream, and caught the rascal and started him over again, + but when I got half way across he jumped and played the same + joke on me again. I began to think of the old puzzle of the + story of the man with the fox, the goose and a peck of corn, + but I solved it by making a basswood rope to which I tied a + stone and threw across, then sending the pony over with the + other end. He staid this time, and after three days of + swimming streams and pretty hard travel reached Mineral Point, + to find Bennett had been gone two weeks and had taken my + outfit with him as we first planned.<br> + </p> + <p>I was a little troubled, but set out light loaded for + Dubuque, crossed the river there and then alone across Iowa, + over wet and muddy roads, till I fell in with some wagons west + of the Desmoines River. They were from Milwaukee, owned by a + Mr. Blodgett, and I camped with them a few nights, till we got + to the Missouri River.<br> + </p> + <p>I rushed ahead the last day or two and got there before + them. There were a few California wagons here, and some + campers, so I put my pony out to grass and looked around. I + waded across the low bottom to a strip of dry land next to the + river, where there was a post office, store, and a few cabins. + I looked first for a letter, but there was none. Then I began + to look over the cards in the trading places and saloons, and + read the names written on the logs of the houses, and + everywhere I thought there might be a trace of the friends I + sought. No one had seen or knew them. After looking half a day + I waded back again to the pony—pretty blue. I thought + first I would go back and wait another year, but there was a + small train near where I left the pony, and it was not + considered very safe to go beyond there except with a pretty + good train. I sat down in camp and turned the matter over in + my mind, and talked with Chas. Dallas of Lynn, Iowa, who owned + the train. Bennett had my outfit and gun, while I had his + light gun, a small, light tent, a frying pan, a tin cup, one + woolen shirt and the clothes on my back. Having no money to + get another outfit, I about concluded to turn back when Dallas + said that if I would drive one of his teams through, he would + board me, and I could turn my pony in with his loose horses; I + thought it over, and finally put my things in the wagon and + took the ox whip to go on. Dallas intended to get provision + here, but could not, so we went down to St. Jo, following the + river near the bluff. We camped near town and walked in, + finding a small train on the main emigrant road to the west. + My team was one yoke of oxen and one yoke of cows. I knew how + to drive, but had a little trouble with the strange animals + till they found I was kind to them, and then they were all + right.<br> + </p> + <p>This was in a slave state, and here I saw the first negro + auction. One side of the street had a platform such as we + build for a political speaker. The auctioneer mounted this + with a black boy about 18 years old, and after he had told all + his good qualities and had the boy stand up bold and straight, + he called for bids, and they started him at $500. He rattled + away as if he were selling a steer, and when Mr. Rubideaux, + the founder of St. Jo bid $800, he went no higher and the boy + was sold. With my New England notions it made quite an + impression on me.<br> + </p> + <p>Here Dallas got his supplies, and when the flour and bacon + was loaded up the ferryman wanted $50 to take the train + across. This Dallas thought too high and went back up the + river a day's drive, where he got across for $30. From this + crossing we went across the country without much of a road + till we struck the road from St. Jo, and were soon on the + Platte bottom.<br> + </p> + <p>We found some fine strawberries at one of the camps across + the country. We found some hills, but now the country was all + one vast prairie, not a tree in sight till we reached the + Platte, there some cottonwood and willow. At the first camp on + the Platte I rolled up in my blanket under the wagon and + thought more than I slept, but I was in for it and no other + way but to go on. I had heard that there were two forts, new + Ft. Kearny and Ft. Laramie, on the south side of the river, + which we must pass before we reached the South Pass of the + Rocky Mountains, and beyond there there would be no place to + buy medicine or food. Our little train of five wagons, ten + men, one woman and three children would not be a formidable + force against the indians if they were disposed to molest us, + and it looked to me very hazardous, and that a larger train + would be more safe, for Government troops were seldom molested + on their marches.<br> + </p> + <p>If I should not please Mr. Dallas and get turned off with + only my gun and pony I should be in a pretty bad shape, but I + decided to keep right on and take the chances on the savages, + who would get only my hair and my gun as my contribution to + them if they should be hostile. I must confess, however, that + the trail ahead did not look either straight or bright to me, + but hoped it might be better than I thought. So I yoked my + oxen and cows to the wagon and drove on. All the other teams + had two drivers each, who took turns, and thus had every other + day off for hunting if they chose, but I had to carry the whip + every day and leave my gun in the wagon.<br> + </p> + <p>When we crossed Salt Creek the banks were high and we had + to tie a strong rope to the wagons and with a few turns around + a post, lower them down easily, while we had to double the + teams to get them up the other side.<br> + </p> + <p>Night came on before half the wagons were over, and though + it did not rain the water rose before morning so it was ten + feet deep. We made a boat of one of the wagon beds, and had a + regular ferry, and when they pulled the wagons over they sank + below the surface but came out all right. We came to Pawnee + Village, on the Platte, a collection of mud huts, oval in + shape, and an entrance low down to crawl in at. A ground owl + and some prairie dogs were in one of them, and we suspected + they might be winter quarters for the Indians.<br> + </p> + <p>Dallas and his family rode in the two-horse wagon. Dick + Field was cook, and the rest of us drove the oxen. We put out + a small guard at night to watch for Indians and keep the stock + together so there might be no delay in searching for them. + When several miles from Ft. Kearney I think on July 3rd, we + camped near the river where there was a slough and much + cottonwood and willow. Just after sundown a horse came + galloping from the west and went in with our horses that were + feeding a little farther down. In the morning two soldiers + came from the fort, inquiring after the stray horse, but + Dallas said he had seen none, and they did not hunt around + among the willows for the lost animal. Probably it would be + the easiest way to report back to the fort—"Indians + got him." When we hitched up in the morning he put the + horse on the off side of his own, and when near the fort, he + went ahead on foot and entertained the officers while the men + drove by, and the horse was not discovered. I did not like + this much, for if we were discovered, we might be roughly + handled, and perhaps the property of the innocent even + confiscated. Really my New England ideas of honesty were + somewhat shocked.<br> + </p> + <p>Reaching the South Platte, it took us all day to ford the + sandy stream, as we had first to sound out a good crossing by + wading through ourselves, and when we started our teams across + we dare not stop a moment for fear the wagons would sink deep + into the quicksands. We had no mishaps in crossing, and when + well camped on the other side a solitary buffalo made his + appearance about 200 yards away and all hands started after + him, some on foot. The horsemen soon got ahead of him, but he + did not seem inclined to get out of their way, so they opened + fire on him. He still kept his feet and they went nearer, Mr. + Rogers, being on a horse with a blind bridle, getting near + enough to fire his Colt's revolver at him, when he turned, and + the horse, being unable to see the animal quick enough to get + out of the way, suffered the force of a sudden attack of the + old fellow's horns, and came out with a gash in his thigh six + inches long, while Rogers went on a flying expedition over the + horse's head, and did some lively scrambling when he reached + the ground. The rest of them worried him along for about half + a mile, and finally, after about forty shots he lay down but + held his head up defiantly, receiving shot after shot with an + angry shake, till a side shot laid him out. This game gave us + plenty of meat, which though tough, was a pleasant change from + bacon. I took no part in this battle except as an observer. On + examination it was found that the balls had been many of them + stopped by the matted hair about the old fellow's head and + none of them had reached the skull.<br> + </p> + <p>A few days after this we were stopped entirely by a herd of + buffaloes crossing our road. They came up from the river and + were moving south. The smaller animals seemed to be in the + lead, and the rear was brought up by the old cows and the + shaggy, burly bulls. All were moving at a smart trot, with + tongues hanging out, and seemed to take no notice of us, + though we stood within a hundred yards of them. We had to + stand by our teams and stock to prevent a stampede, for they + all seemed to have a great wonder, and somewhat of fear at + their relatives of the plains. After this we often saw large + droves of them in the distance. Sometimes we could see what in + the distance seemed a great patch of brush, but by watching + closely we could see it was a great drove of these animals. + Those who had leisure to go up to the bluffs often reported + large droves in sight. Antelopes were also seen, but these + occupied the higher ground, and it was very hard to get near + enough to them to shoot successfully. Still we managed to get + a good deal of game which was very acceptable as food.<br> + </p> + <p>One prominent land mark along the route was what they + called Court House Rock, standing to the south from the trail + and much resembled an immense square building, standing high + above surrounding country. The farther we went on the more + plentiful became the large game, and also wolves and prairie + dogs, the first of which seemed to follow the buffaloes + closely.<br> + </p> + <p>About this time we met a odd looking train going east, + consisting of five or six Mormons from Salt Lake, all mounted + on small Spanish mules. They were dressed in buckskin and + moccasins, with long spurs jingling at their heels, the rowels + fully four inches long, and each one carried a gun, a pistol + and a big knife. They were rough looking fellows with long, + matted hair, long beards, old slouch hats and a generally back + woods get-up air in every way. They had an extra pack mule, + but the baggage and provisions were very light. I had heard + much about the Mormons, both at Nauvoo and Salt Lake, and some + way or other I could not separate the idea of horse thieves + from this party, and I am sure I would not like to meet them + if I had a desirable mule that they wanted, or any money, or a + good looking wife. We talked with them half an hour or so and + then moved on.<br> + </p> + <p>We occasionally passed by a grave along the road, and often + a small head board would state that the poor unfortunate had + died of cholera. Many of these had been torn open by wolves + and the blanket encircling the corpse partly pulled away. Our + route led a few miles north of Chimney Rock, standing on an + elevated point like a tall column, so perfect and regular on + all sides, that from our point it looked as if it might be the + work of the stone cutters. Some of the party went to see it + and reported there was no way to ascend it, and that as far as + a man could reach, the rocks were inscribed with the names of + visitors and travelers who passed that way.<br> + </p> + <p>At Scott's Bluffs, the bluffs came close to the river, so + there was considerable hill climbing to get along, the road in + other places finding ample room in the bottom. Here we found a + large camp of the Sioux Indians on the bank of a ravine, on + both sides of which were some large cottonwood trees. Away up + in the large limbs platforms had been made of poles, on which + were laid the bodies of their dead, wrapped in blankets and + fastened down to the platform by a sort of a network of + smaller poles tightly lashed so that they could not be dragged + away or disturbed by wild animals. This seemed a strange sort + of cemetery, but when we saw the desecrated earth-made graves + we felt that perhaps this was the best way, even if it was a + savage custom.<br> + </p> + <p>These Indians were fair-sized men, and pretty good looking + for red men. Some of our men went over to their camp, and some + of their youths came down to ours, and when we started on they + seemed quite proud that they had learned a little of the + English language, but the extent of their knowledge seemed to + be a little learned of the ox-drivers, for they would swing + their hands at the cattle and cry out "Whoa! haw, g-d + d--n." Whether they knew what was meant, I have my + doubts. They seemed pretty well provided for and begged very + little, as they are apt to do when they are hard pressed.<br> + </p> + <p>We saw also some bands of Pawnee Indians on the move across + the prairies. They would hitch a long, light pole on each side + of a pony, with the ends dragging behind on the ground, and on + a little platform at the hind end the children sat and were + dragged along.<br> + </p> + <p>As we passed on beyond Scott's Bluff the game began to be + perceptibly scarcer, and what we did find was back from the + traveled road, from which it had apparently been driven by the + passing hunters.<br> + </p> + <p>In time we reached Ft. Laramie, a trading post, where there + were some Indian lodges, and we noticed that some of the + occupants had lighter complexions than any of the other + Indians we had<br> + </p> + <p>seen. They had cords of dried buffalo meat, and we + purchased some. It was very fat, but was so perfectly cured + that the clear tallow tasted as sweet as a nut. I thought it + was the best dried meat I had ever tasted, but perhaps a good + appetite had something to do with it.<br> + </p> + <p>As we passed Ft. Laramie we fell in company with some U.S. + soldiers who were going to Ft. Hall and thence to Oregon. We + considered them pretty safe to travel with and kept with them + for some time, though their rate of travel was less than ours. + Among them were some Mormons, employed as teamsters, and in + other ways, and they told us there were some Missourians on + the road who would never live to see California. There had + been some contests between the Missourians and the Mormons, + and I felt rather glad that none of us hailed from Pike + county.<br> + </p> + <p>We turned into what they called the Black Hills, leaving + the Platte to the north of us. The first night on this road we + had the hardest rain I ever experienced, and the only one of + any account on our journey. Our camp was on a level piece of + ground on the bank of a dry creek, which soon became a very + wet creek indeed, for by morning it was one hundred yards wide + and absolutely impassible. It went down, however, as quickly + as it rose, and by ten o'clock it was so low that we easily + crossed and went on our way. We crossed one stream where there + were great drifts or piles of hail which had been brought down + by a heavy storm from higher up the hills. At one place we + found some rounded boulders from six to eight inches in + diameter, which were partly hollow, and broken open were found + to contain most beautiful crystals of quartz, clear as purest + ice. The inside was certainly very pretty, and it was a + mystery how it came there. I have since learned that such + stones are found at many points, and that they are called + geodes.<br> + </p> + <p>We came out at the river again at the mouth of Deer Creek, + and as there was some pretty good coal there quite easy to + get, we made camp one day to try to tighten our wagon tires, + John Rogers acting as blacksmith. This was my first chance to + reconnoitre, and so I took my gun and went up the creek, a + wide, treeless bottom. In the ravines on the south side were + beautiful groves of small fir trees and some thick brush, wild + rose bushes I think. I found here a good many heads and horns + of elk, and I could not decide whether they had been killed in + winter during the deep snow, or had starved to death.<br> + </p> + <p>There was a ferry here to cross the river and go up along + north side. Mr. Dallas bought the whole outfit for a small sum + and when we were safely over he took with him such ropes as he + wanted and tied the boat to the bank The road on this side was + very sandy and led over and among some rolling hills. In + talking with the men of the U.S. troops in whose company we + still were, I gathered much information concerning our road + further west. They said we were entirely too late to get + through to California, on account of crossing the Sierra + Nevada mountains, which, they said would be covered with snow + by November, or even earlier, and that we would be compelled + to winter at Salt Lake. Some of the drivers overheard Mr. + Dallas telling his family the same thing, and that if he + should winter at Salt Lake, he would discharge his drivers as + soon as he arrived, as he could not afford to board them all + winter.<br> + </p> + <p>This was bad news for me, for I had known of the history of + them at Nauvoo and in Missouri, and the prospect of being + thrown among them with no money to buy bread was a very sorry + prospect for me. From all I could learn we could not get a + chance to work, even for our board there, and the other + drivers shared my fears and disappointment. In this dilemma we + called a council, and invited the gentleman in to have an + understanding. He came and our spokesman stated the case to + him, and our fears, and asked him what he had to say to us + about it. He flew quite angry at us, and talked some and swore + a great deal more, and the burden of his speech + was:—"This train belongs to me and I propose to do + with it just as I have a mind to, and I don't care a d--n what + you fellows do or say. I am not going to board you fellows all + winter for nothing, and when we get to Salt Lake you can go + where you please, for I shall not want you any longer." + We talked a little to him and under the circumstances to talk + was about all we could do. He gave us no satisfaction and left + us apparently much offended that we had any care for + ourselves.<br> + </p> + <p>Then we had some talk among ourselves, at the time, and + from day to day as we moved along. We began to think that the + only way to get along at all in Salt Lake would be to turn + Mormons, and none of us had any belief or desire that way and + could not make up our minds to stop our journey and lose so + much time, and if we were not very favored travelers our lot + might be cast among the sinners for all time.<br> + </p> + <p>We were now on the Sweetwater River, and began to see the + snow on the Rocky Mountains ahead of us, another reminder that + there was a winter coming and only a little more than half our + journey was done. We did not feel very happy over it, and yet + we had to laugh once in a while at some of the funny things + that would happen.<br> + </p> + <p>The Government party we were with had among them a German + mule driver who had a deal of trouble with his team, but who + had a very little knowledge of the English language. When the + officers tried to instruct him a little he seemed to get out + of patience and would say something very like + <i>Sacramento</i>. We did not know exactly what this meant. We + had heard there was a river of that name or something very + near like that; and then again some said that was the Dutch + for swearing. If this latter was the truth then he was a very + profane mule driver when he got mad.<br> + </p> + <p>The Captain of the company had a very nice looking lady + with him, and they carried a fine wall tent which they + occupied when they went into camp. The company cook served + their meals to them in the privacy of their tent, and they + seemed to enjoy themselves very nicely. Everybody thought the + Captain was very lucky in having such an accomplished + companion, and journey along quietly to the gold fields at + government expense.<br> + </p> + <p>There seemed to be just a little jealousy between the + Captain and the Lieutenant, and one day I saw them both + standing in angry attitude before the Captain's quarters, both + mounted, with their carbines lying across their saddles before + them. They had some pretty sharp, hot words, and it looked as + if they both were pretty nearly warmed up to the shooting + point. Once the Lieutenant moved his right hand a little, and + the Captain was quick to see it, shouting;—"Let + your gun alone or I will make a hole through you," at the + same time grasping his own and pointing it straight at the + other officer. During all this time the Captain's lady stood + in the tent door, and when she saw her favorite had the drop + on the Lieutenant she clapped her delicate, little hands in a + gleeful manner:—"Just look at the Captain! Ain't he + spunky?" and then she laughed long and loud to see her + lord show so much military courage. She seemed more pleased at + the affair than any one else. I don't know exactly what the + others thought, but I never could believe that the lady and + the Captain were ever married.<br> + </p> + <p>The Lieutenant was no coward, but probably thinking that + prudence was the better part of valor, refrained from handling + his gun, and the two soon rode away in opposite + directions.<br> + </p> + <p>We passed a lone rock standing in the river bottom on the + Sweetwater, which they named Independence Rock. It was covered + with the names of thousands of people who had gone by on that + road. Some were pretty neatly chiseled in, some very rudely + scrawled, and some put on with paint. I spent all the time I + could hunting Mr. Bennett's name, but I could not find it + anywhere. To have found his name, and thus to know that he had + safely passed this point would have been a little re-assuring + in those rather doubtful days. Some had named the date of + their passing, and some of them were probably pretty near the + gold fields at this time.<br> + </p> + <p>All along in this section we found alkali water near the + road, some very strong and dangerous for man or beast to use. + We traveled on up the Sweetwater for some time, and at last + came to a place where the road left the river, and we had a + long, hard hill to pull up. When we reached the top of this we + were in the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, the backbone of + the American continent. To the north of us were some very high + peaks white with snow, and to the south were some lower hills + and valleys. The summit of the mountains was not quite as + imposing as I expected, but it was the summit, and we were + soon surely moving down the western side, for at Pacific + Springs the water ran to the westward, toward the Pacific + coast. The next day we came to the nearly dry bed of the + river—the Big Sandy. The country round about seemed + volcanic, with no timber, but plenty of sage brush, in which + we were able to shoot an occasional sage hen. The river bed + itself was nothing but sand, and where there was water enough + to wet it, it was very miry and hard traveling over it. There + are two streams, the Big Sandy and Little Sandy, both + tributaries to Green River, which we soon reached and + crossed.<br> + </p> + <p>It was a remarkable clear and rapid stream and was now low + enough to ford. One of the Government teams set out to make + the crossing at a point where it looked shallow enough, but + before the lead mules reached the opposite shore, they lost + their footing and were forced to swim. Of course the wagon + stopped and the team swung round and tangled up in a bad + shape. They were unhitched and the wagon pulled back, the load + was somewhat dampened, for the water came into the wagon box + about a foot. We camped here and laid by one day, having thus + quite a little chance to look around.<br> + </p> + <p>When we came to the first water that flowed toward the + Pacific Coast at Pacific Springs, we drivers had quite a + little talk about a new scheme. We put a great many + "ifs" together and they amounted to about + this:—If this stream were large enough; if we had a + boat; if we knew the way: if there were no falls or bad + places; if we had plenty of provisions; if we were bold enough + set out on such a trip, etc., we might come out at some point + or other on the Pacific Ocean. And now when we came to the + first of the "ifs," a stream large enough to float a + small boat; we began to think more strongly about the other + "ifs".<br> + </p> + <p>In the course of our rambles we actually did run across the + second "if" in the shape of a small ferry boat + filled up with sand upon a bar, and it did not take very long + to dig it out and put it into shape to use, for it was just + large enough to hold one wagon at a time. Our military escort + intended to leave us at this point, as their route now bore + off to the north of ours. I had a long talk with the surgeon + who seemed well informed about the country, and asked him + about the prospects. He did not give the Mormons a very good + name. He said to me:—"If you go to Salt Lake City, + do not let them know you are from Missouri, for I tell you + that many of those from that State will never see California. + You know they were driven from Missouri, and will get revenge + if they can." Both the surgeon and the captain said the + stream came out on the Pacific Coast and that we had no + obstacles except cataracts, which they had heard were pretty + bad. I then went to Dallas and told him what we proposed doing + and to our surprise he did not offer any objections, and + offered me $60 for my pony. He said he would sell us some + flour and bacon for provisions also.<br> + </p> + <p>We helped them in crossing the river, which was somewhat + difficult, being swift, with boulders in the bottom but we got + all safely over and then made the trade we had spoken of. + Dallas paid me for my pony and we took what flour and bacon he + would let go. He gave us some ropes for head and stern lines + to our boat and a couple of axes, and we laid these, and our + provisions in a pile by the roadside. Six of us then gave up + our whips. Mr. S. McMahon, a driver, hesitated for some time, + but being pressed by Dallas for a decision, at last threw down + his whip and said:—"I will go with the boys." + This left Dallas with only one driver, but he took a whip + himself, and with the aid of the children and his wife who + drove the two-horse wagon, they got along very well. I paid + for such provisions as we had taken, as the rest of the + fellows had almost no money.<br> + </p> + <p>So we parted company, the little train slowly moving on its + way westward. Our military captain, the soldier boys, and the + gay young lady taking the route to Oregon, and we sitting on + the bank of the river whose waters flowed to the great + Pacific. Each company wished the other good luck, we took a + few long breaths and then set to work in earnest to carry out + our plans.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=478 alt="" src="images/ch_07.png" width=357 border=0><br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-34642"></a>CHAPTER VIII.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>About the first thing we did was to organize and select a + captain, and, very much against my wishes, I was chosen to + this important position. Six of us had guns of some sort, + Richard Field, Dallas's cook, was not armed at all. We had one + regular axe and a large camp hatchet, which was about the same + as an axe, and several very small hatchets owned by the men. + All our worldly goods were piled up on the bank, and we were + alone.<br> + </p> + <p>An examination of the old ferry boat showed it to be in + pretty good condition, the sand with which it had been filled + keeping it very perfectly. We found two oars in the sand under + the boat, and looked up some poles to assist us in navigation. + Our cordage was rather scant but the best we could get and all + we could muster. The boat was about twelve feet long and six + or seven feet wide, not a very well proportioned craft, but + having the ability to carry a pretty good load. We swung it up + to the bank and loaded up our goods and then ourselves. It was + not a heavy load for the craft, and it looked as if we were + taking the most sensible way to get to the Pacific, and almost + wondered that everybody was so blind as not to see it as we + did.<br> + </p> + <p>This party was composed of W.L. Manley, M.S. McMahon, + Charles and Joseph Hazelrig, Richard Field, Alfred Walton and + John Rogers. We untied the ropes, gave the boat a push and + commenced to move down the river with ease and comfort, + feeling much happier than we would had we been going toward + Salt Lake with the prospect of wintering there.<br> + </p> + <p>At the mouth of Ham's Fork we passed a camp of Indians, but + we kept close to the opposite shore to avoid being boarded by + them. They beckoned very urgently for us to come ashore, but I + acted as if I did not understand them, and gave them the + go-by.<br> + </p> + <p>As we were floating down the rapid stream it became more + and more a rapid, roaring river, and the bed contained many + dangerous rocks that were difficult to shun. Each of us had a + setting-pole, and we ranged ourselves along the sides of the + boat and tried to keep ourselves clear from the rocks and + dangers. The water was not very deep and made such a dashing + noise as the current rushed among the rocks that one had to + talk pretty loud to be heard. As we were gliding along quite + swiftly, I set my pole on the bottom and gave the boat a + sudden push to avoid a boulder, when the pole stuck in the + crevice between two rocks, and instead of losing the pole by + the sudden jerk I gave, I was the one who was very suddenly + yanked from the boat by the spring of the pole, and landed in + the middle of the river. I struck pretty squarely on my back, + and so got thoroughly wet, but swam for shore amid the shouts + of the boys, who waved their hats and hurrahed for the captain + when they saw he was not hurt. I told them that was nothing as + we were on our way to California by water any way, and such + things must be expected.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day after this I went on shore and sighted a + couple of antelope, one of which I shot, which gave us good + grub, and good appetites we already had. As near as we could + estimate we floated about thirty miles a day, which beat the + pace of tired oxen considerably. In one place there was a + fringe of thick willows along the bank, and a little farther + back a perpendicular bluff, while between the two was a strip + of fine green grass. As we were passing this we scared up a + band of elk in this grass meadow, and they all took a run down + the river like a band of horses. One of them turned up a small + ravine with walls so steep he could not get out, so we posted + a guard at the entrance, and three of us went up the + cañon after him, and after the others had each fired a + shot, I fired the third and brought him down. This was about + the finest piece of Rocky Mountain beef that one could see. We + took the carcass on board and floated on again.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus far we had a very pleasant time, each taking his turn + in working the boat while the others rested or slept. About + the fifth day when we were floating along in very gently + running water, I had lay down to take a rest and a little + sleep. The mountains here on both sides of the river were not + very steep, but ran gradually for a mile or so. While I was + sleeping the boat came around a small angle in the stream, and + all at once there seemed to be a higher, steeper range of + mountains right across the valley. The boys thought the river + was coming to a rather sudden end and hastily awoke me, and + for the life of me I could not say they were not right, for + there was no way in sight for it to go to. I remembered while + looking over a map the military men had I found a place named + Brown's Hole, and I told the boys I guessed we were elected to + go on foot to California after all, for I did not propose to + follow the river down any sort of a hole into any mountain. We + were floating directly toward a perpendicular cliff, and I + could not see any hole any where, nor any other place where it + could go. Just as we were within a stone's throw of the cliff, + the river turned sharply to the right and went behind a high + point of the mountain that seemed to stand squarely on edge. + This was really an immense crack or crevice, certainly 2000 + feet deep and perhaps much more, and seemed much wider at the + bottom than it did at the top, 2000 feet or more above our + heads. Each wall seemed to lean in toward the water as it + rose.<br> + </p> + <p>We were now for some time between two rocky walls between + which the river ran very rapidly, and we often had to get out + and work our boat over the rocks, sometimes lifting it off + when it caught. Fortunately we had a good tow line, and one + would take this and follow along the edge when it was so he + could walk. The mountains seemed to get higher and higher on + both sides as we advanced, and in places we could see quite a + number of trees overhanging the river, and away up on the + rocks we could see the wild mountain sheep looking down at us. + They were so high that they seemed a mile away, and + consequently safe enough. This was their home, and they seemed + very independent, as if they dared us fellows to come and see + them. There was an old cottonwood tree on bank with marks of + an axe on it, but this was all the sign we saw that any one + had ever been here before us. We got no game while passing + through this deep cañon and began to feel the need of + some fresh provisions very sorely.<br> + </p> + <p>We passed many deep, dark cañons coming into the + main stream, and at one place, where the rock hung a little + over the river and had a smooth wall, I climbed up above the + high water mark which we could clearly see, and with a mixture + of gunpowder and grease for paint, and a bit of cloth tied to + a stick for a brush, I painted in fair sized letters on the + rock, CAPT. W.L. MANLEY, U.S.A. We did not know whether we + were within the bounds of the United States or not, and we put + on all the majesty we could under the circumstances. I don't + think the sun ever shone down to the bottom of the + cañon, for the sides were literally sky-high, for the + sky, and a very small portion of that was all we could + see.<br> + </p> + <p>Just before night we came to a place where some huge rocks + as large as cabins had fallen down from the mountain, + completely filling up the river bed, and making it completely + impassible for our boat. We unloaded it and while the boys + held the stern line, I took off my clothes and pushed the boat + out into the torrent which ran around the rocks, letting them + pay the line out slowly till it was just right. Then I sang + out to—"Let go"—and away it dashed. I + grasped the bow line, and at the first chance jumped overboard + and got to shore, when I held the boat and brought it in below + the obstructions. There was some deep water below the rocks; + and we went into camp. While some loaded the boat, others with + a hook and line caught some good fish, which resembled + mackerel.<br> + </p> + <p>While I was looking up toward the mountain top, and along + down the rocky wall, I saw a smooth place about fifty feet + above where the great rocks had broken out, and there, painted + in large black letters, were the words "ASHLEY, + 1824." This was the first real evidence we had of the + presence of a white man in this wild place, and from this + record it seems that twenty-five years before some venturesome + man had here inscribed his name. I have since heard there were + some persons in St. Louis of this name, and of some + circumstances which may link them with this early + traveler.<br> + </p> + <p>When we came to look around we found that another big rock + blocked the channel 300 yards below, and the water rushed + around it with a terrible swirl. So we unloaded the boat again + and made the attempt to get around it as we did the other + rocks. We tried to get across the river but failed. We now, + all but one, got on the great rock with our poles, and the one + man was to ease the boat down with the rope as far as he + could, then let go and we would stop it with our poles and + push it out into the stream and let it go over, but the + current was so strong that when the boat struck the rock we + could not stop it, and the gunwale next to us rose, and the + other went down, so that in a second the boat stood edgewise + in the water and the bottom tight against the big rock, and + the strong current pinned it there so tight that we could no + more move it than we could move the rock itself.<br> + </p> + <p>This seemed a very sudden ending to our voyage and there + were some very rapid thoughts as to whether we would not safer + among the Mormons than out in this wild country, afoot and + alone. Our boat was surely lost beyond hope, and something + must be done. I saw two pine trees, about two feet through, + growing on a level place just below, and I said to them that + we must decide between going afoot and making some canoes out + of these pine trees. Canoes were decided on, and we never let + the axes rest, night or day till we had them completed. While + my working shift was off, I took an hour or two, for a little + hunting, and on a low divide partly grown over with small + pines and juniper I found signs, old and new, of many elk, and + so concluded the country was well stocked with noble game. The + two canoes, when completed were about fifteen feet long and + two feet wide, and we lashed them together for greater + security. When we tried them we found they were too small to + carry our load and us, and we landed half a mile below, where + there were two other pine trees—white pine—about + two feet through, and much taller than the ones we had used. + We set at work making a large canoe of these. I had to direct + the work for I was the only one who had ever done such work. + We worked night and day at these canoes, keeping a big fire at + night and changing off to keep the axes busy. This canoe we + made twenty-five or thirty feet long, and when completed they + made me captain of it and into it loaded the most valuable + things, such as provisions, ammunition, and cooking utensils. + I had to take the lead for I was the only skillful canoeist in + the party. We agreed upon signals to give when danger was + seen, or game in sight, and leading off with my big canoe we + set sail again, and went flying down stream.<br> + </p> + <p>This rapid rate soon brought us out of the high mountains + and into a narrow valley when the stream became more moderate + in its speed and we floated along easily enough. In a little + while after we struck this slack water, as we were rounding a + point, I saw on a sand bar in the river, five or six elk, + standing and looking at us with much curiosity. I signaled for + those behind to go to shore, while I did the same, and two or + three of us took our guns and went carefully down along the + bank, the thick brush hiding us from them, till we were in + fair range, then selecting our game we fired on them. A fine + doe fell on the opposite bank, and a magnificent buck which + Rogers and I selected, went below and crossed the river on our + side. We followed him down along the bank which was here a + flat meadow with thick bunches of willows, and soon came + pretty near to Mr. Elk who started off on a high and lofty + trot. As he passed an opening in the bushes I put a ball + through his head and he fell. He was a monster. Rogers, who + was a butcher, said it would weigh five hundred or six hundred + pounds. The horns were fully six feet long, and by placing the + horns on the ground, point downwards, one could walk under the + skull between them. We packed the meat to our canoes, and + staid up all night cutting the meat in strips and drying it, + to reduce bulk and preserve it, and it made the finest kind of + food, fit for an epicure.<br> + </p> + <p>Starting on again, the river lost more and more of of its + rapidity as it came out into a still wider valley, and became + quite sluggish. We picked red berries that grew on bushes that + overhung the water. They were sour and might have been high + cranberries. One day I killed an otter, and afterward hearing + a wild goose on shore, I went for the game and killed it on a + small pond on which there were also some mallard duck. I + killed two of these. When I fired, the ones not killed did not + fly away, but rather swam toward me. I suppose they never + before had seen a man or heard the report of a gun. On the + shore around the place I saw a small bear track, but I did not + have time to look for his bearship, and left, with the game + already killed, and passed on down through this beautiful + valley.<br> + </p> + <p>We saw one place where a large band of horses had crossed, + and as the men with them must have had a raft, we were pretty + sure that the men in charge of them were white men. Another + day we passed the mouth of a swollen stream which came in from + the west side. The water was thick with mud, and the fish, + about a foot long, came to the top, with their noses out of + water. We tried to catch some, but could not hold them. One + night we camped on an island, and I took my gun and went over + toward the west side where I killed a deer. The boys hearing + me shoot, came out, guns in hand, thinking I might need help, + and I was very glad of their assistance. To make our flour go + as far as possible we ate very freely of meat, and having + excellent appetites it disappeared very fast.<br> + </p> + <p>It took us two or three days to pass this beautiful valley, + and then we began to get into a rougher country again, the + cañons deeper and the water more tumultuous. McMahon + and I had the lead always, in the big canoe. The mountains + seemed to change into bare rocks and get higher and higher as + we floated along. After the first day of this the river became + so full of boulders that many times the only way we could do + was to unload the canoes and haul them over, load up and go + ahead, only to repeat the same tactics in a very short time + again. At one place where the river was more than usually + obstructed we found a deserted camp, a skiff and some heavy + cooking utensils, with a notice posted up on an alder tree + saying that they had found the river route impracticable, and + being satisfied that the river was so full of rocks and + boulders that it could not be safely navigated, they had + abandoned the undertaking and were about to start overland to + make their way to Salt Lake. I took down the names of the + parties at the time in my diary, which has since been burned, + but have now forgotten them entirely. They were all strangers + to me. They had taken left such heavy articles as could not be + carried on foot. This notice rather disconcerted us, but we + thought we had better keep on and see for ourselves, so we did + not follow them, but kept on down the rocky river. We found + generally more boulders than water, and the down grade of the + river bed was heavy.<br> + </p> + <p>Some alders and willows grew upon the bank and up quite + high on the mountains we could see a little timber. Some days + we did not go more than four or five miles, and that was + serious work, loading and unloading our canoes, and packing + them over the boulders, with only small streams of water + curling around between them. We went barefoot most of the + time, for we were more than half of the time in the water + which roared and dashed so loud that we could hardly heard + each other speak. We kept getting more and more venturesome + and skillful, and managed to run some very dangerous rapids in + safety.<br> + </p> + <p>On the high peaks above our heads we could see the Rocky + Mountain sheep looking defiantly at us from their mountain + fastnesses, so far away they looked no larger than jack + rabbits. They were too far off to try to shoot at, and we had + no time to try to steal up any nearer for at the rate we were + making, food would be the one thing needful, for we were + consuming it very fast. Sometimes we could ride a little ways, + and then would come the rough-and-tumble with the rocks + again.<br> + </p> + <p>One afternoon we came to a sudden turn in the river, more + than a right angle, and, just below, a fall of two feet or + more. This I ran in safety, as did the rest who followed and + we cheered at our pluck and skill. Just after this the river + swung back the other way at a right angle or more, and I + quickly saw there was danger below and signaled them to go on + shore at once, and lead the canoes over the dangerous rapids. + I ran my own canoe near shore and got by the rapid safely, + waiting for the others to come also. They did not obey my + signals but thought to run the rapid the same as I did. The + channel here was straight for 200 yards, without a boulder in + it, but the stream was so swift that it caused great, rolling + waves in the center, of a kind I have never seen anywhere + else. The boys were not skillful enough to navigate this + stream, and the suction drew them to the center where the + great waves rolled them over and over, bottom side up and + every way. The occupants of our canoe let go and swam to + shore. Fields had always been afraid of water and had worn a + life preserver every day since we left the wagons. He threw up + his hands and splashed and kicked at a terrible rate, for he + could not swim, and at last made solid ground. One of the + canoes came down into the eddy below, where it lodged close to + the shore, bottom up. Alfred Walton in the other canoe could + not swim, but held on to the gunwale with a death grip, and it + went on down through the rapids. Sometimes we could see the + man and sometimes not, and he and the canoe took turns in + disappearing. Walton had very black hair, and as he clung fast + to his canoe his black head looked like a crow on the end of a + log. Sometimes he would be under so long that we thought he + must be lost, when up he would come again still clinging + manfully.<br> + </p> + <p>McMahon and I threw everything out of the big canoe and + pushed out after him. I told Mc. to kneel down so I could see + over him to keep the craft off the rocks, and by changing his + paddle from side to side as ordered, he enabled me to make + quick moves and avoid being dashed to pieces. We fairly flew, + the boys said, but I stood up in the stern and kept it clear + of danger till we ran into a clear piece of river and overtook + Walton clinging to the overturned boat; McMahon seized the + boat and I paddled all to shore, but Walton was nearly dead + and could hardly keep his grasp on the canoe. We took him to a + sandy place and worked over him and warmed him in the sun till + he came to life again, then built a fire and laid him up near + to it to get dry and warm. If the canoe had gone on 20 yards + farther with him before we caught it, he would have gone into + another long rapid and been drowned. We left Walton by the + fire and crossing the river in the slack water, went up to + where the other boys were standing, wet and sorry-looking, + say-that all was gone and lost. Rogers put his hand in his + pocket and pulled out three half dollars and said + sadly:—"Boys, this is all I am worth in the + world." All the clothes he had were a pair of overalls + and a shirt. If he had been possessed of a thousand in gold he + would have been no richer, for there was no one to buy from + and nothing to buy. I said to them: "Boys, we can't help + what has happened, we'll do the best we can. Right your canoe, + get the water out, and we'll go down and see how Walton + is." They did as I told them, and lo and behold when the + canoe rolled right side up, there were their clothes and + blankets safe and sound. These light things had floated in the + canoe and were safe. We now tried by joining hands to reach + out far enough to recover some of the guns, but by feeling + with their feet they found the bottom smooth as glass and the + property all swept on below, no one knew where. The current + was so powerful that no one could stand in it where it came up + above his knees. The eddy which enabled us to save the first + canoe with the bedding and clothes was caused by a great + boulder as large as a house which had fallen from above and + partly blocked the stream. Everything that would sink was + lost.<br> + </p> + <p>We all got into the two canoes and went down to Walton, + where we camped and staid all night for Walton's benefit. + While we were waiting I took my gun and tried to climb up high + enough to see how much longer this horrible cañon was + going to last, but after many attempts, I could not get high + enough to see in any direction. The mountain was all bare + rocks in terraces, but it was impossible to climb from one to + the other, and the benches were all filled with broken rocks + that had fallen from above.<br> + </p> + <p>By the time I got back to camp, Walton was dry and warm and + could talk. He said he felt better, and pretty good over his + rescue. When he was going under the water, it seemed sometimes + as if he never would come to the top again, but he held on and + eventually came out all right. He never knew how he got to + shore, he was so nearly dead when rescued.<br> + </p> + <p>The next morning Walton was so well we started on. We were + now very poorly armed. My rifle and McMahon's shotgun were all + the arms we had for seven of us, and we could make but a poor + defence if attacked by man or beast, to say nothing of + providing ourselves with food. The mountains on each side were + very bare of timber, those on the east side particularly so, + and very high and barren. Toward night we were floating along + in a piece of slack water, the river below made a short turn + around a high and rocky point almost perpendicular from the + water. There was a terrace along the side of this point about + fifty feet up, and the bench grew narrower as it approached + the river. As I was coming down quite close under this bank I + saw three mountain sheep on the bench above, and, motioning to + the boys, I ran on shore and, with my gun in hand, crept down + toward them, keeping a small pine tree between myself and the + sheep. There were some cedar bushes on the point, and the + pines grew about half way up the bank. I got in as good a + range as possible and fired at one of them which staggered + around and fell down to the bottom of the cliff. I loaded and + took the next largest one which came down the same way. The + third one tried to escape by going down the bend and then + creeping up a crevice, but it could not get away and turned + back, cautiously, which gave me time to load again and put a + ball through it. I hit it a little too far back for instant + death, but I followed it up and found it down and helpless, + and soon secured it. I hauled this one down the mountain, and + the other boys had the two others secure by this time. McMahon + was so elated at my success that he said: "Manley, if I + could shoot as you do I would never want any better + business." And the other fellows said they guessed we + were having better luck with one gun than with six, so we had + a merry time after all. These animals were of a bluish color, + with hair much finer than deer, and resembled a goat more than + a sheep. These three were all females and their horns were + quite straight, not curved like the big males. We cut the meat + from the bones and broke them up, making a fine soup which + tasted pretty good. They were in pretty good order, and the + meat like very good mutton.<br> + </p> + <p>We kept pushing on down the river. The rapids were still + dangerous in many places, but not so frequent nor so bad as + the part we had gone over, and we could see that the river + gradually grew smoother as we progressed.<br> + </p> + <p>After a day or two we began to get out of the + cañons, but the mountains and hills on each side were + barren and of a pale yellow caste, with no chance for us to + climb up and take a look to see if there were any chances for + us further along. We had now been obliged to follow the + cañon for many miles, for the only way to get out was + to get out endwise, climbing the banks being utterly out of + the question. But these mountains soon came to an end, and + there was some cottonwood and willows on the bank of the + river, which was now so smooth we could ride along without the + continual loading and unloading we had been forced to practice + for so long. We had begun to get a little desperate at the + lack of game, but the new valley, which grew wider all the + time, gave us hope again, if it was quite barren everywhere + except back of the willow trees.<br> + </p> + <p>We were floating along very silently one day, for none of + us felt very much in the mood for talking, when we heard a + distant sound which we thought was very much like the firing + of a gun. We kept still, and in a short time a similar sound + was heard, plainer and evidently some ways down the stream. + Again and again we heard it, and decided that it must be a gun + shot, and yet we were puzzled to know how it could be. We were + pretty sure there were no white people ahead of us, and we did + not suppose the Indians in this far-off land had any firearms. + It might be barely possible that we were coming now to some + wagon train taking a southern course, for we had never heard + that there were any settlements in this direction and the + barren country would preclude any such thing, as we viewed it + now. If it was a hostile band we could not do much with a + rifle and a shot gun toward defending ourselves or taking the + aggressive. Some of the boys spoke of our scalps ornamenting a + spear handle, and indulged in such like cheerful talk which + comforted us wonderfully.<br> + </p> + <p>Finally we concluded we did not come out into that wild + country to be afraid of a few gunshots, and determined to put + on a bold front, fight if we had to, run away if we could not + do any better, and take our chances on getting scalped or + roasted. Just then we came in sight of three Indian lodges + just a little back from the river, and now we knew for certain + who had the guns. McMahon and I were in the lead as usual, and + it was only a moment before one of the Indians appeared, gun + in hand, and made motions for us to come on shore. A + cottonwood tree lay nearly across the river, and I had gone so + far that I had to go around it and land below, but the other + boys behind were afraid to do otherwise than to land right + there as the Indian kept his gun lying across his arm. I ran + our canoe below to a patch of willows, where we landed and + crawled through the brush till we came in sight of the other + boys, where we stood and waited a moment to see how they + fared, and whether our red men were friends or enemies. There + were no suspicious movements on their part, so we came out and + walked right up to them. There was some little talk, but I am + sure we did not understand one another's language, and so we + made motions and they made motions, and we got along better. + We went with them down to the tepee, and there we heard the + first word that was at all like English and that was + "Mormonee," with a sort of questioning tone. Pretty + soon one said "Buffalo," and then we concluded they + were on a big hunt of some sort. They took us into their + lodges and showed us blankets, knives, and guns, and then, + with a suggestive motion, said all was "Mormonee," + by which we understood they had got them from the Mormons. The + Indian in the back part of the lodge looked very pleasant and + his countenance showed a good deal of intelligence for a man + of the mountains. I now told the boys that we were in a + position where we were dependent on some one, and that I had + seen enough to convince me that these Indians were perfectly + friendly with the Mormons, and that for our own benefit we had + better pass ourselves off for Mormons, also. So we put our + right hand to our breast and said "Mormonee," with a + cheerful countenance, and that act conveyed to them the belief + that we were chosen disciples of the great and only Brigham + and we became friends at once, as all acknowledged. The + fine-looking Indian who sat as king in the lodge now, by + motions and a word or two, made himself known as Chief Walker, + and when I knew this I took great pains to cultivate his + acquaintance.<br> + </p> + <p>I was quite familiar with the sign language used by all the + Indians, and found I could get along pretty well in making him + understand and knowing what he said. I asked him first how + many "sleeps"' or days it was from there to + "Mormonee." In answer he put out his left hand and + then put two fingers of his right astride of it, making both + go up and down with the same motion of a man riding a horse. + Then he shut his eyes and laid his head on his hand three + times, by which I understood that a man could ride to the + Mormon settlement in three sleeps or four days. He then wanted + to know where we were going, and I made signs that we were + wishing to go toward the setting sun and to the big water, and + I said "California." The country off to the west of + us now seemed an open, barren plain, which grew wider as it + extended west. The mountains on the north side seemed to get + lower and smaller as they extended west, but on the south or + east side they were all high and rough. It seemed as if we + could see one hundred miles down the river, and up to the time + we met the Indians we thought we had got through all our + troublesome navigation and could now sail on, quietly and + safely to the great Pacific Ocean and land of gold.<br> + </p> + <p>When I told Chief Walker this he seemed very much + astonished, as if wondering why we were going down the river + when we wanted to get west across the country. I asked him how + many sleeps it was to the big water, and he shook his head, + pointed out across the country and then to the river and shook + his head again; by which I understood that water was scarce, + out the way he pointed. He then led me down to a smooth sand + bar on the river and then, with a crooked stick, began to make + a map in the sand. First he made a long crooked mark, ten feet + long or so, and pointing to the river to let me know that the + mark in the sand was made to represent it. He then made a + straight mark across near the north end of the stream, and + showed the other streams which came into the Green river which + I saw at once was exactly correct. Then he laid some small + stones on each side of the cross mark, and making a small hoop + of a willow twig, he rolled it in the mark he had made across + the river, then flourished his stick as if he were driving + oxen. Thus he represented the emigrant road. He traced the + branches off to the north where the soldiers had gone, and the + road to California, which the emigrants took, all of which we + could see was correct. Then he began to describe the river + down which we had come. A short distance below the road he put + some small stones on each side of the river to represent + mountains. He then put down his hands, one on each side of the + crooked mark and then raised them up again saying e-e-e-e-e-e + as he raised them, to say that the mountains there were very + high. Then he traced down the stream to a place below where we + made our canoes; when he placed the stone back from the river + farther, to show that there was a valley there; then he drew + them in close again farther down, and piled them up again two + or three tiers high, then placing both fists on them he raised + them higher than the top of his head, saying e-e-e-e-e-e and + looking still higher and shaking his head as if to say:— + "Awful bad cañon", and thus he went on describing the river + till we understood that we were near the place where we now + were, and then pointed to his tepee, showing that I understood + him all right. It was all correct, as I very well knew and + assured me that he knew all about the country.<br> + </p> + <p>I became much interested in my new found friend, and had + him continue his map down the river. He showed two streams + coming in on the east side and then he began piling up stones + on each side of the river and then got longer ones and piled + them higher and higher yet. Then he stood with one foot on + each side of his river and put his hands on the stones and + then raised them as high as he could, making a continued + e-e-e-e-e-e as long as his breath would last, pointed to the + canoe and made signs with his hands how it would roll and + pitch in the rapids and finely capsize and throw us all out. + He then made signs of death to show us that it was a fatal + place. I understood perfectly plain from this that below the + valley where we now were was a terrible cañon, much + higher than any we had passed, and the rapids were not + navigable with safety. Then Walker shook his head more than + once and looked very sober, and said "Indiano" and + reaching for his bow and arrows, he drew the bow back to its + utmost length and put the arrow close to my breast, showing + how I would get shot. Then he would draw his hand across his + throat and shut his eyes as if in death to make us understand + that this was a hostile country before us, as well as rough + and dangerous.<br> + </p> + <p>I now had a description of the country ahead and believed + it to be reliable. As soon as I could conveniently after this, + I had a council with the boys, who had looked on in silence + while I was holding the silent confab with the chief. I told + them where we were and what chances there were of getting to + California by this route, and that for my part I had as soon + be killed by Mormans as by savage Indians, and that I believed + the best way for us to do was to make the best of our way to + Salt Lake. "Now" I said, "Those of you who + agree with me can follow—and I hope all will."<br> + </p> + <p>McMahon said that we could not understand a word the old + Indian said, and as to following his trails, I don't believe a + word of it, and it don't seem right.<br> + </p> + <p>He said he had a map of the country, and it looked just as + safe to him to go on down the river as to go wandering across + a dry and desolate country which we knew nothing of. I said to + McMahon—"I know this sign language pretty well. It + is used by almost all the Indians and is just as plain and + certain to me as my talk is to you. Chief Walker and his + forefathers were borne here and know the country as well as + you know your father's farm, and for my part, I think I shall + take one of his trails and go to Salt Lake and take the + chances that way. I have no objections to you going some other + way if you wish to and think it is best". McMahon and + Fields concluded they would not follow me any farther.<br> + </p> + <p>I then went to Chief Walker and had him point out the trail + to "Mormonie" as well as he could. He told me where + to enter the mountains leading north, and when we got part way + he told me we would come to an Indian camp, when I must follow + some horse tracks newly made; he made me know this by using + his hands like horse's forefeet, and pointed the way.<br> + </p> + <p>Some of the young men motioned for me to come out and shoot + at a mark with them, and as I saw it would please them I did + so and took good care to beat them every time too. Then they + wanted to swap (narawaup) guns with me which I declined doing. + After this the Chief came to me and wanted me to go and hunt + buffalo with them. I told him I had no horse, and then he went + and had a nice gray one brought up and told me I could ride + him if I would go. He took his bow and arrow and showed me how + he could shoot an arrow straight through a buffalo just back + of his short ribs and that the arrow would go clear through + and come out on the other side without touching a bone. Those + fellows were in fine spirit, on a big hunt, and when Walker + pointed out his route to me he swung his hand around to Salt + Lake.<br> + </p> + <p>They all spoke the word buffalo quite plainly. I took his + strong bow and found I could hardly pull it half way out, but + I have no doubt he could do as he said he could. I hardly knew + how to refuse going with him. I asked him how long it would be + before he would get around his long circuit and get to Salt + Lake, to which he replied by pulverizing some leaves in his + hands and scattering them in the air to represent snow, which + would fall by the time he got to "Mormonee". I + shivered as he said this and by his actions I saw that I + understood him right.<br> + </p> + <p>I told him I could not go with him for the other boys would + depend on me to get them something to eat, and I put my finger + into my open mouth to tell him this. I think if I had been + alone I should have accepted his offer and should have had a + good time. I gave them to understand that we would swap + (narawaup) with them for some horses so he brought up a pair + of nice two year-old colts for us. I offered him some money + for them, he did not want that, but would take clothing of + almost any kind. We let them have some that we could get along + without, and some one let Walker have a coat. He put it on, + and being more warmly dressed than ever before, the sweat ran + down his face in streams. We let them have some needles and + thread and some odd notions we had to spare. We saw that + Walker had some three or four head of cattle with him which he + could kill if they did not secure game at the time they + expected.<br> + </p> + <p>McMahon and Field still persisted they would not go with us + and so we divided our little stock of flour and dried meat + with them as fairly as possible and decided we would try the + trail. When our plans were settled we felt in pretty good + spirits again, and one of the boys got up a sort of corn-stalk + fiddle which made a squeaking noise and in a little while + there was a sort of mixed American and Indian dance going on + in which the squaws joined in and we had a pretty jolly time + till quite late at night. We were well pleased that these wild + folks had proved themselves to be true friends to us.<br> + </p> + <p>The morning we were to start I told the boys a dream I had + in which I had seen that the course we had decided on was the + correct one, but McMahon and Field thought we were foolish + and said they had rather take the chances of going with the + Indians, or going on down the river. He seemed to place great + stress on the fact that he could not understand the + Indians.<br> + </p> + <p>Said he:—"This Indian may be all right, and + maybe he will lead us all into a dreadful trap. They are + treacherous and revengeful, and for some merely fancied wrong + done by us, or by some one else of whom we have no control or + knowledge, they may take our scalps, wipe us out of existence + and no one will ever know what became of us. Now this map of + mine don't show any bad places on this river, and I believe we + can get down easily enough, and get to California some time. + Field and I cannot make up our minds so easily as you fellows. + I believe your chances are very poor."<br> + </p> + <p>The boys now had our few things loaded on the two colts, + for they had fully decided to go with me, and I was not in the + least put back by McMahon's dire forbodings. We shook hands + with quivering lips as we each hoped the other would meet good + luck, and find enough to eat and all such sort of friendly + talk, and then with my little party on the one side and + McMahon and Field, whom we were to leave behind, on the other, + we bowed to each other with bared heads, and then we started + out of the little young cottonwoods into the broad plain that + seemed to get wider and wider as we went west.<br> + </p> + <p>The mountains on the northern side grew smaller and less + steep as we went west, and on the other hand reached down the + river as far as we could see. The plain itself was black and + barren and for a hundred miles at least ahead of us it seemed + to have no end. Walker had explained to us that we must follow + some horse tracks and enter a cañon some miles to the + northwest. He had made his hands work like horses' feet, + placing then near the ground as if following a trail. We were + not much more than a mile away when on looking back, we saw + Chief Walker coming towards us on a horse at full speed; and + motioning for us to stop. This we did, though some of the boys + said we would surely be marched back and scalped. But it was + not for that he came. He had been watching us and saw that we + had failed to notice the tracks of the horses he told us about + so he rode after us, and now took us off some little distance + to the right, got off his horse and showed us the faint horse + tracks which we were to follow and said "Mormonie". + He pointed out to us the exact cañon we were to enter + when we reached the hills; and said after three + "sleeps" we would find an Indian camp on top of the + mountain. He then bade us good bye again and galloped back to + his own camp.<br> + </p> + <p>We now resumed our journey, keeping watch of the tracks + more closely, and as we came near the spurs of the mountain + which projected out into the barren valley we crossed several + well marked trails running along the foot hills, at right + angles to our own. This we afterwards learned was the regular + trail from Santa Fé to Los Angeles. At some big rocks + further on we camped for the night, and found water in some + pools or holes in the flat rocks which held the rain.<br> + </p> + <p>Reading people of to-day, who know so well the geography of + the American continent, may need to stop and think that in + 1849 the whole region west of the Missouri River was very + little known, the only men venturesome enough to dare to + travel over it were hunters and trappers who, by a wild life + had been used to all the privations of such a journey, and + shrewd as the Indians themselves in the mysterious ways of the + trail and the chase. Even these fellows had only investigated + certain portions best suited to their purpose.<br> + </p> + <p>The Indians here have the reputation of being blood thirsty + savages who took delight in murder and torture, but here, in + the very midst of this wild and desolate country we found a + Chief and his tribe, Walker and his followers who were as + humane and kind to white people as could be expected of any + one. I have often wondered at the knowledge of this man + respecting the country, of which he was able to make us a good + map in the sand, point out to us the impassable cañon, + locate the hostile indians, and many points which were not + accurately known by our own explorers for many years + afterward. He undoubtedly saved our little band from a watery + grave, for without his advice we had gone on and on, far into + the great Colorado cañon, from which escape would have + been impossible and securing food another impossibility, while + destruction by hostile indians was among the strong + probabilities of the case. So in a threefold way I have for + these more than forty years credited the lives of myself and + comrades to the thoughtful interest and humane consideration + of old Chief Walker.<br> + </p> + <p>In another pool or pond near the one where we were camped I + shot a small duck. Big sage was plenty here for fuel and we + had duck for supper. Our party consisted of five men and two + small ponies only two years old, with a stock of provisions + very small including that the old chief had given us. We + started on in the morning, following our faint trail till we + came to the cañon we had in view, and up this we turned + as we had been directed, finding in the bottom a little + running stream. Timber began to appear as we ascended, and + grass also. There were signs of deer and grouse but we had no + time to stop to hunt, for I had the only gun and while I + hunted the others must lie idly by. We reached the summit at a + low pass, and just above, on the north side of the higher + mountains were considerable banks of snow. Following the + Chief's instructions we left the trail and followed some horse + tracks over rolling hills, high on the mountain side. We found + the Indian camp exactly as the Chief had described, consisting + of two or three lodges. The men were all absent hunting, but + the women were gathering and baking some sort of a root which + looked like a carrot. They made a pile of several bushels and + covered it with earth, then made a fire, treating the pile + some as a charcoal burner does his pit of coal. When + sufficiently cooked they beat them up and made the material + into small cakes which were dried in the sun. The dried cakes + were as black as coal and intended for winter use. These roots + before roasting were unfit for food, as they contained a sort + of acrid juice that would make the tongue smart and very sore + but there was a very good rich taste when cooked. The woman + pointed to our horses and said "Walker", so we knew + they were aware that we got them of him, and might have taken + us for horse thieves for aught I know. As it was not yet night + when we came to the camp, we passed on and camped on a clear + mountain brook where grew some pine trees. After a little some + of the Indians belonging to the camp we had passed came in, + bringing some venison, for which we traded by giving them some + needles and a few other trinkets. I beat these fellows + shooting at a mark, and then they wanted to trade guns, which + I declined. This piece of meat helped us along considerably + with our provisions, for game was very scarce and only some + sage hens had come across our trail. One day I scared a hawk + off the ground, and we took the sage hen he had caught and was + eating, and made some soup of it.<br> + </p> + <p>After being on this trail six or seven days we began to + think of killing one of our colts for food, for we had put + ourselves on two meals a day and the work was very hard; so + that hunger was all the time increasing. We thought this was a + pretty long road for Walker to ride over in three sleeps as he + said he could, and we began also to think there might be some + mistake somewhere, although it had otherwise turned out just + as he said. On the eighth day our horse-tracks came out into a + large trail which was on a down grade leading in a northward + direction. On the ninth day we came into a large valley, and + near night came in sight of a few covered wagons, a part of a + train that intended going on a little later over the southern + route to Los Angeles but were waiting for the weather to get a + little cooler, for a large part of the route was over almost + barren deserts. We were very glad to find these wagons, for + they seemed to have plenty of food and the bountiful supper + they treated us to was the very thing we needed. We camped + here and told them of the hardships we had passed through. + They had hired a guide, each wagon paying him ten dollars for + his service. Our little party talked over the situation among + ourselves, and concluded that as we were good walkers we must + allow ourselves to be used in any way so that we had grub and + concluded as many of us as possible would try to get some + service to do for our board and walk along with the party. + John Rogers had a dollar and a half and I had thirty dollars, + which was all the money we had in our camp. We found out we + were about 60 miles south of Salt Lake City. Some of the boys + next day arranged to work for their board, and the others + would be taken along if they would furnish themselves with + flour and bacon. This part of the proposition fell to me and + two others, and so Hazelrig and I took the two colts and + started for the city, where they told us we could get all we + needed with our little purse of money. We reached Hobble Creek + before night, near Salt Lake where there was a Mormon fort, + and were also a number of wagons belonging to some prospecting + train. There seemed to be no men about and we were looking + about among the wagons for some one to inquire of, when a + woman came to the front of the last wagon and looked out at + us, and to my surprise it was Mrs. Bennett, wife of the man I + had been trying to overtake ever since my start on this long + trip. Bennett had my entire outfit with him on this trip and + was all the time wondering whether I would ever catch up with + them. We stayed till the men came in with their cattle towards + night, and Bennett was glad enough to see me, I assure you. We + had a good substantial supper and then sat around the campfire + nearly all night telling of our experience since leaving + Wisconsin. I had missed Bennett at the Missouri River. I knew + of no place where people crossed the river except Council + Bluff, here I had searched faithfully, finding no trace of + him, but it seems they had crossed farther up at a place + called Kanesville, a Mormon crossing, and followed up the + Platte river on the north side. Their only bad luck had been + to lose a fine black horse, which was staked out, and when a + herd of buffaloes came along he broke his rope and followed + after them. He was looked for with other horses, but never + found and doubtless became a prize for some enterprising Mr. + Lo. who was fortunate enough to capture him. Hazelrig and I + told of our experience on the south side of the Platte; why we + went down Green River; what a rough time we had; how we were + stopped by the Indians and how we had come across from the + river, arriving the day before and were now on our way to Salt + Lake to get some flour and bacon so we could go on with the + train when it started as they had offered to haul our grub for + our service if we could carry ourselves on foot.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Bennett would not hear of my going on to Salt Lake + City, for he said there must be provisions enough in the party + and in the morning we were able to buy flour and bacon of John + Philips of Mineral Point Wis. and of Wm. Philips his brother. + I think we got a hundred pounds of flour and a quantity of + bacon and some other things. I had some money which I had + received for my horse sold to Dallas, but as the others had + none I paid for it all, and told Hazelrig to take the ponies + and go back to camp with a share of the provisions and do the + best he could. I had now my own gun and ammunition, with some + clothing and other items which I had prepared in Wisconsin + before I started after my Winnebago pony, and I felt I ought + to share the money I had with the other boys to help them as + best I could. I felt that I was pretty well fixed and had + nothing to fear.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Bennett told me much of the trip on the north side of + the Platte. He said they had some cholera, of which a few + people died, and related how the outer if not the inner nature + of the men changed as they left civilization, law and the + courts behind them. Some who had been raised together, and + lived together all their lives without discord or trouble, who + were considered model men at home and just the right people to + be connected with in such an expedition, seemed to change + their character entirely out on these wild wastes. When + anything excited their displeasure their blood boiled over, + and only the interference of older and wiser heads on many + occasions prevented bloodshed. Some dissolved the solemn + contract they had made to travel together systematically and + in order and to stand, by, even unto death, and when they + reached the upper Platte, the journey only half over, talked + of going back, or splitting up the outfit and join others they + had taken a fancy to. Some who could not agree upon a just + division of a joint outfit, thinking one party was trying to + cheat, would not yield but would cut their wagons in two + lengthwise just for spite so that no carts could be made and + the whole vehicle spoiled for both parties. The ugly + disagreements were many and the cloven foot was shown in many + ways. Guns were often drawn and pointed but some one would + generally interfere and prevent bloodshed. Others were honest + and law abiding to the last degree beyond law and churches, + and would act as harmoniously as at home, obeying their chosen + captain in the smallest particular without any grumbling or + dissension, doing to every one as they would be done by. These + were the pride of the train. The trains were most of them + organized, and all along the river bottom one was hardly ever + out of sight of some of the wagons, all going west. Buffalo + and antelope were plenty and in great droves, followed always + by wolves great and small, who were on the lookout for + crippled or dead animals with which to fill their hungry + stomachs. Buffalo meat was plenty and much enjoyed while + passing this section of the road and this opportunity of + replenishing, enabled the stock to last them over more + desolate regions where game was scarce.<br> + </p> + <p>After Bennett had told his stories, and I had related more + of our own close escapes I began to ask him why he went this + way which seemed to be very circuitous and much longer than + the way they had first intended to go. He said that it was too + late in the season to go the straight-road safely, for there + was yet 700 miles of bad country to cross and do the best they + could it would be at the commencement of the rainy season + before the Sierra Nevada mountains could be reached and in + those mountains there was often a snow fall of 20 feet or + more, and anyone caught in it would surely perish. If they + tried to winter at the base of the mountains it was a long way + to get provisions, and no assurance of wild game, and this + course was considered very hazardous for any one to undertake. + This they had learned after consulting mountaineers and others + who knew about the regions, and as there was nothing doing + among the Latter Day Saints to give employment to any one, it + was decided best to keep moving and go the southern route by + way of Los Angeles. No wagons were reported as ever getting + through that way, but a trail had been traveled through that + barren desert country for perhaps a hundred years, and the + same could be easily broadened into a wagon road.<br> + </p> + <p>After days of argument and camp-fire talks, this Southern + route was agreed upon, and Capt. Hunt was chosen as guide. + Capt. Hunt was a Mormon, and had more than one wife, but he + had convinced them that he knew something about the road. Each + agreed to give him ten dollars to pilot the train to San + Bernardino where the Mormon Church had bought a Spanish grant + of land, and no doubt they thought a wagon road to that place + would benefit them greatly, and probably gave much + encouragement for the parties to travel this way. It was + undoubtedly safer than the northern mountain route at this + season of the year. It seemed at least to be a new venture for + west-bound emigrant trains, at least as to ultimate success, + for we had no knowledge of any that had gone through + safely.<br> + </p> + <p>Some western people remembered the history of the Mormons + in Illinois and Missouri, and their doings there, feared + somewhat for their own safety now that they were so completely + under their power, for they knew the Mormons to be revengeful + and it was considered very unsafe for any traveler to + acknowledge he was from Missouri. Many a one who had been born + there, and lived there all his life, would promptly claim some + other state as his native place. I heard one Mormon say that + there were some Missourians on the plains that would never + reach California. "They used us bad," said he, and + his face took on a really murderous look.<br> + </p> + <p>These Mormons at Salt Lake were situated as if on an island + in the sea, and no enemy could reach any adjoining state or + territory if Brigham Young's band of destroying angels were + only warned to look after them.<br> + </p> + <p>At a late hour that night we lay down to sleep, and morning + came clear and bright. After breakfast Mr. Bennett said to + me:—"Now Lewis I want you to go with me; I have two + wagons and two drivers and four yoke of good oxen and plenty + of provisions. I have your outfit yet, your gun and ammunition + and your two good hickory shirts which are just in time for + your present needs. You need not do any work. You just look + around and kill what game you can for us, and this will help + as much as anything, you can do." I was, of course glad + to accept this offer, and thanks to Mr. Bennett's kind care of + my outfit, was better fixed then any of the other boys.<br> + </p> + <p>We inquired around among the other wagons as to their + supply of flour and bacon; and succeeded to getting flour from + Mr. Philips and bacon from some of the others, as much as we + supposed the other boys would need, which I paid for, and when + this was loaded on the two colts Hazelrig started back alone + to the boys in camp. As I was so well provided for I gave him + all my money for they might need some, and I did not.<br> + </p> + <p>The wagons which composed the intended train were very much + scattered about, having moved out from Salt Lake at pleasure, + and it was said to be too early to make the start on the + southern route, for the weather on the hot, barren desert was + said to grow cooler a little later in the season, and it was + only at this cool season that the south west part of the + desert could be crossed in safety. The scattering members of + the train began to congregate, and Capt. Hunt said it was + necessary to have some sort of system about the move, and that + before they moved they must organize and adopt rules and laws + which must be obeyed. He said they must move like an army, and + that he was to be a dictator in all things except that in case + of necessity a majority of the train could rule otherwise. It + was thought best to get together and try a march out one day, + then go in camp and organize.<br> + </p> + <p>This they did, and at the camp there was gathered one + hundred and seven wagons, a big drove of horses and cattle, + perhaps five hundred in all. The train was divided into seven + divisions and each division was to elect its own captain. + Division No. 1 should lead the march the first day, and their + men should take charge of the stock and deliver them to the + wagons in the morning, and then No. 1 should take the rear, + with No. 2 in the lead to break the road. The rear division + would not turn a wheel before 10 o'clock the next day, and it + would be about that time at night before they were in camp and + unyoked. The numbers of animals cleaned out the feed for a + mile or two each side of the camp and a general meeting was + called for the organization of the whole. Mr. L. Granger got + up so he could look over the audience and proceeded to explain + the plan and to read a preamble and resolutions which had been + prepared as the basis for government. I remember that it begun + thus:—"This Organization shall be known and + designated as the Sand Walking Company, and shall consist of + seven divisions etc," detailing the manner of marching as + we have recited. Capt J. Hunt was chosen commander and guide, + and his orders must be obeyed. All possible trouble that we + could imagine might come was provided against in our written + agreement, and all promised to live up to it.<br> + </p> + <div align="center"> + <img height=308 alt="" src="images/ch_08.png" width=236 + border=0><br> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-12684"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>We moved off in good style from this camp. After a day or + two and before we reached what is called Little Salt Lake, an + attempt was made to make a short cut, to save distance. The + train only went on this cut off a day or two when Capt. Hunt + came back from the front and said they had better turn back to + the old trail again, which all did. This was a bad move, the + train much broken and not easy to get them into regular + working order again. We were now approaching what they called + the Rim of the Basin. Within the basin the water all ran to + the north or toward Great Salt Lake, but when we crossed the + rim, all was toward the Colorado River, through which it + reached the Pacific Ocean. About this time we were overtaken + by another train commanded by Capt. Smith. They had a map with + them made by one Williams of Salt Lake a mountaineer who was + represented to know all the routes through all the mountains + of Utah, and this map showed a way to turn off from the + southern route not far from the divide which separated the + waters of the basin from those which flowed toward the + Colorado, and pass over the mountains, coming out in what they + called Tulare valley, much nearer than by Los Angeles.<br> + </p> + <p>This map was quite frequently exhibited and the matter + freely discussed in camp, indeed speeches were made in the + interest of the cut-off route which was to be so much shorter. + A clergyman, the Rev. J.W. Brier, was very enthusiastic about + this matter and discaused learnedly and plausibly about it. + The more the matter was talked about the more there were who + were converted to the belief that the short road would be the + best. The map showed every camp on the road and showed where + there was water and grass, and as to obstacles to the wagons + it was thought they could easily be overcome. A general + meeting was called for better consideration of the question. + Capt. Hunt said: "You all know I was hired to go by way + of Los Angeles, but if you all wish to go and follow Smith I + will go also. But if even one wagon decides to go the original + route, I shall feel bound to go with that wagon."<br> + </p> + <p>A great many were anxious to get the opinion of Capt. Hunt + on the feasibility of the new route for he was a mountain man + and could probably give us some good advice. He finally + consented to talk of it, and said he really knew no more then + the others about this particular route, but he very much + doubted if a white man ever went over it, and that he did not + consider it at all safe for those who had wives and children + in their company to take the unknown road. Young men who had + no family could possibly get through, and save time even if + the road was not as good as Los Angeles road. But said he + "If you decide to follow Smith I will go will go with + you, even if the road leads to Hell."<br> + </p> + <p>On the route from near Salt Lake to this point we found the + country to grow more barren as we progressed. The grass was + thinner, and sage brush took the place of timber. Our road + took us in sight of Sevier Lake, and also, while going through + the low hills, passed Little Salt Lake, which was almost dry, + with a beach around it almost as white as snow. It might have + had a little more the dignity of a lake in wet weather, but it + was a rather dry affair as we saw it.<br> + </p> + <p>At one point on this route we came into a long narrow + valley, well covered with sage brush, and before we had gone + very far we discovered that this was a great place for long + eared rabbits, we would call them Jack Rabbits now. Every one + who had a gun put it into service on this occasion, and there + was much popping and shooting on every side. Great clouds of + smoke rolled up as the hunters advanced and the rabbits ran in + every direction to get away. Many ran right among the horses, + and under the feet of the cattle and under the wagons, so that + the teamsters even killed some with a whip. At the end of the + valley we went into camp, and on counting up the game found we + had over 500, or about one for every person in camp. This gave + us a feast of fresh meat not often found.<br> + </p> + <p>It was on this trip that one of Mr. Bennett's ox drivers + was taken with a serious bowel difficulty, and for many days + we thought he would die, but he eventually recovered. His name + was Silas Helmer.<br> + </p> + <p>It was really a serious moment when the front of the train + reached the Smith trail. Team after team turned to the right + while now and then one would keep straight ahead as was at + first intended. Capt. Hunt came over to the larger party after + the division was made, and wished them all a hearty farewell + and a pleasant happy journey. My friend Bennett whose fortune + I shared was among the seceders who followed the Smith party. + This point, when our paths diverged was very near the place + afterward made notorious as Mountain Meadows, where the famous + massacre took place under the direction of the Mormon + generals. Our route from here up to the mountain was a very + pleasant one, steadily up grade, over rolling hills, with + wood, water and grass in plenty. We came at last to what + seemed the summit of a great mountain, about three days + journey on the new trail. Juniper trees grew about in bunches, + and my experience with this timber taught me that we were on + elevated ground.<br> + </p> + <p>Immediately in front of us was a cañon, impassible + for wagons, and down into this the trail descended. Men could + go, horses and mules, perhaps, but wagons could no longer + follow that trail, and we proposed to camp while explorers + were sent out to search a pass across this steep and rocky + cañon. Wood and bunch grass were plenty, but water was + a long way down the trail and had to be packed up to the camp. + Two days passed, and the parties sent out began to come in, + all reporting no way to go farther with the wagons. Some said + the trail on the west side of the cañon could be + ascended on foot by both men and mules, but that it would take + years to make it fit for wheels.<br> + </p> + <p>The enthusiasm about the Smith cut-off had begun to die and + now the talk began of going back to follow Hunt. On the third + morning a lone traveler with a small wagon and one yoke of + oxen, died. He seemed to be on this journey to seek to regain + his health. He was from Kentucky, but I have forgotten his + name. Some were very active about his wagon and, some thought + too much attention was paid to a stranger. He was decently + buried by the men of the company.<br> + </p> + <p>This very morning a Mr. Rynierson called the attention of + the crowd and made some remarks upon the situation. He said: + "My family is near and dear to me. I can see by the + growth of the timber that we are in a very elevated place. + This is now the seventh of November, it being the fourth at + the time of our turning off on this trail. We are evidently in + a country where snow is liable to fall at any time in the + winter season, and if we were to remain here and be caught in + a severe storm we should all probably perish. I, for one, feel + in duty bound to seek a safer way than this. I shall hitch up + my oxen and return at once to the old trail. Boys (to his + teamsters) get the cattle and we'll return." This was + decisive, and Mr. Rynierson would tarry no longer. Many others + now proceeded to get ready and follow, and as Mr. Rynierson + drove out of camp quite a respectable train fell in behind + him. As fast as the hunters came in and reported no road + available, they also yoked up their oxen and rolled out. Some + waited awhile for companions yet in the fields, and all were + about ready to move, when a party came in with news that the + pass was found and no trouble could be seen ahead. About + twenty-seven wagons remained when this news came, and as their + proprietors had brought good news they agreed to travel on + westward and not go back to the old trail.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Bennett had gone only a short distance out when he had + the misfortune to break the axle of his wagon and he then went + back to camp and took an axle out of the dead man's wagon and + by night had it fitted into his own. He had to stay until + morning, and there were still a few others who were late in + getting a start, who camped there also. Among these were J.B. + Arcane, wife and child; two Earhart brothers and sons and some + two or three other wagons.<br> + </p> + <p>When all was ready we followed the others who had gone + ahead. The route led at first directly to the north and a pass + was said to be in that direction. Of the Green River party + only Rodgers and myself remained with this train. After the + wagons straightened out nicely, a meeting was called to + organize, so as to travel systematically. A feeling was very + manifest that those without any families did not care to bind + themselves to stand by and assist those who had wives and + children in their party and there was considerable debate, + which resulted in all the family wagons being left out of the + arrangements.<br> + </p> + <p>A party who called themselves "The Jayhawkers" + passed us, and we followed along in the rear, over rolling + hills covered with juniper timber, and small grassy valleys + between where there was plenty of water and went well, for + those before us had broken out the road so we could roll along + very pleasantly.<br> + </p> + <p>At the organization Jim Martin was chosen captain. Those + who were rejected were Rev. J.W. Brier and, his family, J.B. + Arcane and family, and Mr. A. Bennett and family, Mr. Brier + would not stay put out, but forced himself in, and said he was + going with the rest, and so he did. But the other families + remained behind. I attended the meeting and heard what was + said, but Mr. Bennett was my friend and had been faithful to + me and my property when he knew not where I was, and so I + decided to stand by him and his wife at all hazards.<br> + </p> + <p>As I had no team to drive I took every opportunity to climb + the mountains along the route, reaching the highest elevations + even if they were several miles from the trail. I sometimes + remained out all night. I took Mr. Arcane's field glass with + me and was thus able to see all there was of the country. I + soon became satisfied that going north was not taking us in + the direction we ought to go. I frequently told them so, but + they still persisted in following on. I went to the leaders + and told them we were going back toward Salt Lake again, not + making any headway toward California. They insisted they were + following the directions of Williams, the mountaineer; and + they had not yet got as far north as he indicated. I told + them, and Mr. Bennett and others, that we must either turn + west, or retrace our steps and get back into the regular Los + Angeles road again. In the morning we held another + consultation and decided to turn west here, and leave the + track we had been following.<br> + </p> + <p>Off we turned at nearly right angles to our former course, + to the west now, over a piece of table land that gave us + little trouble in breaking our own road. When we camped, the + oxen seemed very fond of a white weed that was very plenty, + and some borrowed a good deal of trouble thinking that perhaps + it might be poison. I learned afterwards that this plant was + the nutritious white sage, which cattle eat freely, with good + results. We now crossed a low range and a small creek running + south, and here were also some springs. Some corn had been + grown here by the Indians. Pillars of sand stone, fifteen feet + high and very slim were round about in several places and + looked strange enough. The next piece of table land sloped to + the east, and among the sage grew also a bunch grass a foot + high, which had seeds like broom-corn seeds. The Indians had + gathered the grass and made it in piles of one hundred pounds + or so, and used it for food as I found by examining their + camps.<br> + </p> + <p>One day I climbed a high mountain where some pine grew, in + order to get a view of the country. As I neared its base I + came to a flat rock, perhaps fifty feet square. I heard some + pounding noise as I came near, but what ever it was, it ceased + on my approach. There were many signs of the rock being used + as a camp, such as pine burrs, bones of various kinds of + animals, and other remains of food which lay every where about + and on the rock. Near the center was a small oblong stone + fitted into a hole. I took it out and found it covered a fine + well of water about three feet deep and was thus protected + against any small animal being drowned in it. I went on up the + mountain and from the top I saw that the land west of us + looked more and more barren.<br> + </p> + <p>The second night the brave Jayhawkers who had been so firm + in going north hove in sight in our rear. They had at last + concluded to accept my advice and had came over our road quite + rapidly. We all camped together that night, and next morning + they took the lead again. After crossing a small range they + came to a basin which seemed to have no outlet, and was very + barren. Some of the boys in advance of the teams had passed + over this elevation and were going quite rapidly over the + almost level plain which sloped into the basin, when they saw + among the bunches of sage brush behind them a small party of + Indians following their road, not very far off, but still out + of bow and arrow range. The boys were suddenly able to take + much longer steps than usual and a little more rapidly too, + and swinging round toward the teams as soon as possible, for + they already had some fears that an arrow might be sticking in + their backs in an unpleasantly short space of time, for the + Indians were good travelers. When they came in sight of the + wagons, the Indians vanished as quickly as if they had gone + into a hole, with no sign remaining, except a small dog which + greatly resembled a prairie wolf, and kept a safe distance + away. No one could imagine where the fellows went so + suddenly.<br> + </p> + <p>We drove to the west side of this basin and camped near the + foot of a low mountain. The cattle were driven down into the + basin where there was some grass, but at camp we had only the + water in our kegs.<br> + </p> + <p>Some of the boys climbed the mountain on the north but + found no springs: Coming down a cañon they found some + rain water in a basin in the rocks and all took a good drink. + Lew West lay down and swallowed all he could and then told the + boys to kill him for he never would feel so good again. They + finished the pool, it was so small, before they left it. In + going on down the cañon they saw an Indian dodge behind + some big rocks, and searching, they found him in a cave as + still as a dead man. They pulled him out and made him go with + them, and tried every way to find out from him where they were + and where Owen's Lake was, as they had been told the lake was + on their route. But he proved to be no wiser than a man of + mud, and they led him along to camp, put a red flannel shirt + on him to cover his nakedness, and made him sleep between two + white men so he could not get away easily. In the morning they + were more successful, and he showed us a small ravine four + miles away which had water in it, enough for our use, and we + moved up and camped there, while the boys and the Indian + started over a barren, rocky mountain, and when over on the + western slope they were led to a water hole on a steep rocky + cliff where no one but an Indian would ever think of looking + for water. They took out their cups and had a good drink all + around, then offered the Indian some, but he disdained the + civilized way, and laying down his bow and arrows took a long + drink directly out of the pool. He was so long in getting a + good supply that the boys almost forgot him as they were + gazing over the distant mountain and discussing prospects, + till attracted by a slight noise they looked and saw Mr. + Indian going down over the cliffs after the fashion of a + mountain sheep, and in a few bounds he was out of sight. They + could not have killed him if they had tried, the move so + sudden and unlooked for. They had expected the fellow to show + them the way to Owen's lake, but now their guide was gone, and + left nothing to remember him by except his bow and arrows. So + they returned to their wagons not much wiser than before.<br> + </p> + <p>All kinds of game was now very scarce, and so seldom seen + that the men got tired of carrying their guns, and grew + fearless of enemies. A heavy rifle was indeed burdensome over + so long a road when there was no frequent use for it. The + party kept rolling along as fast as possible but the mountains + and valleys grew more barren and water more scarce all the + time. When found, the water would be in hole at the outlet of + some cañon, or in little pools which had filled up with + rain that had fallen on the higher ground. Not a drop of rain + had fallen on us since we started on this cut-off, and every + night was clear and warm. The elevated parts of the country + seemed to be isolated buttes, with no running streams between + them but instead, dry lakes with a smooth clay bed, very light + in color and so hard that the track of an ox could not be seen + on its glittering surface. At a distance those clay beds + looked like water shining in the sun and were generally about + three times as far as any one would judge, the air was so + clear. This mirage, or resemblance to water was so perfect as + often to deceive us, and almost to our ruin on one or two + occasions.<br> + </p> + <p>I took Arcane's field glass and took pains to ascend all + the high buttes within a day's walk of the road, and this + enabled me to get a good survey of the country north and west. + I would sometimes be gone two or three days with no luggage + but my canteen and gun. I was very cautious in regard to + Indians, and tried to keep on the safe side of surprises. I + would build a fire about dark and then travel on till I came + to a small washed place and lie down and stay till morning, so + if Mr. Indian did come to my fire he would not find any one to + kill. One day I was going up a wide ravine leading to the + summit, and before I reached the highest part I saw a smoke + curl up before me. I took a side ravine and went cautiously, + bowed down pretty low so no one could see me, and when near + the top of the ridge and about one hundred yards of the fire I + ventured to raise slowly up and take a look to see how many + there were in camp: I could see but two and as I looked across + the ravine an Indian woman seemed looking at me also, but I + was so low she could only see the top of my head, and I sank + down again out of sight. I crawled further up so as to get a + better view, and when I straightened up again she got a full + view of me. She instantly caught her infant off its little + pallet made of a small piece of thin wood covered with a + rabbit skin, and putting the baby under one arm, and giving a + smart jerk to a small girl that was crying to the top of her + voice, she bounded off and fairly flew up the gentle slope + toward the summit, the girl following after very close. The + woman's long black hair stood out as she rushed along, looking + over her shoulder every instant as if she expected to be + slain. The mother flying with her children, untrammeled with + any of the arts of fashion was the best natural picture I ever + looked upon, and wild in the extreme. No living artist could + do justice to the scene as the lady of the desert, her little + daughter and her babe, passed over the summit out of sight. I + followed, but when I reached the highest summit, no living + person could be seen. I looked the country over with my glass. + The region to the north was black rocky, and very mountainous. + I looked some time and then concluded I had better not go any + further that way, for I might be waylaid and filled with + arrows at some unsuspected moment. We saw Indian signs almost + every day, but as none of them ever came to our camp it was + safe to say they were not friendly. I now turned back and + examined the Indian woman's camp. She had only fire enough to + make a smoke. Her conical shaped basket left behind, contained + a few poor arrows and some cactus leaves, from which the + spines had been burned, and there lay the little pallet where + the baby was sleeping. It was a bare looking kitchen for + hungry folks.<br> + </p> + <p>I now went to the top of a high butte and scanned the + country very carefully, especially to the west and north, and + found it very barren. There were no trees, no fertile valleys + nor anything green. Away to the west some mountains stood out + clear and plain, their summits covered white with snow. This I + decided was our objective point: Very little snow could be + seen elsewhere, and between me and the snowy mountains lay a + low, black rocky range, and a wide level plain, that had no + signs of water, as I had learned them in our trip thus far + across the country. The black range seemed to run nearly north + and south, and to the north and northwest the country looked + volcanic, black and desolate.<br> + </p> + <p>As I looked and thought, I believed that we were much + farther from a fertile region then most of our party had any + idea of. Such of them as had read Fremont's travels, and most + of them going to California had fortified themselves before + starting by reading Fremont; said that the mountains were near + California and were fertile from their very summits down to + the sea, but that to the east of the mountains it was a desert + region for hundred of miles. As I explained it to them, and so + they soon saw for themselves, they believed that the snowy + range ahead of us was the last range to cross before we + entered the long-sought California, and it seemed not far off, + and prospect quite encouraging.<br> + </p> + <p>Our road had been winding around among the buttes which + looked like the Indian baskets turned upside down on the great + barren plain. What water we found was in small pools in the + wash-out places near the foothills at the edge of the valley, + probably running down the ravines after some storm. There were + dry lake beds scattered around over the plain, but it did not + seem as if there had ever been volume of water enough lately + to force itself out so far into the plain as these lakes were. + All the lakes appeared about the same, the bed white and + glistening in the sun, which made it very hard for the eyes, + and so that a man in passing over it made no visible track. It + looked as if it one time might have been a smooth bed of + plastic mortar, and had hardened in the sun. It looked as if + there must have been water there sometime, but we had not seen + a drop, or a single cloud; every day was clear and sunny, and + very warm, and at night no stars forgot to shine.<br> + </p> + <p>Our oxen began to look bad, for they had poor food. Grass + had been very scarce, and now when we unyoked them and turned + them out they did not care to look around much for something + to eat. They moved slowly and cropped disdainfully the dry + scattering shrubs and bunches of grass from six inches to a + foot high. Spending many nights and days on such dry food and + without water they suffered fearfully, and though fat and + sleek when we started from Salt Lake, they now looked gaunt + and poor, and dragged themselves slowly along, poor faithful + servants of mankind. No one knew how long before we might have + to kill some of them to get food to save our own lives.<br> + </p> + <p>We now traveled several days down the bed of a broad + ravine, which led to a southwest direction. There seemed to be + a continuous range of mountains on the south, but to the north + was the level plain with scattered buttes, and what we had all + along called dry lakes, for up to this time we had seen no + water in any of them. I had carried my rifle with me every day + since we took this route, and though I was an experienced + hunter, a professional one if there be such a thing, I had + killed only one rabbit, and where no game lived I got as + hungry as other folks.<br> + </p> + <p>Our line soon brought us in sight of a high butte which + stood apparently about 20 miles south of our route, and I + determined to visit and climb it to get a better view of + things ahead. I walked steadily all day and reached the summit + about dusk. I wandered around among the big rocks, and found a + projecting cliff where I would be protected from enemies, wind + or storm, and here I made my camp. While the light lasted I + gathered a small stock of fuel, which consisted of a stunted + growth of sage and other small shrubs, dry but not dead, and + with this I built a little fire Indian fashion and sat down + close to it. Here was a good chance for undisturbed meditation + and someway I could not get around doing a little meditating + as I added a new bit of fuel now and then to the small fire + burning at my side. I thought it looked dark and troublesome + before us. I took a stone for a pillow with my hat on it for a + cushion, and lying down close under the shelving rock I went + to sleep, for I was very tired, I woke soon from being cold, + for the butte was pretty high, and so I busied myself the + remainder of the night in adding little sticks to the fire, + which gave me some warmth, and thus in solitude I spent the + night. I was glad enough to see the day break over the eastern + mountains, and light up the vast barren country I could see on + every hand around me. When the sun was fairly up I took a good + survey of the situation, and it seemed as if pretty near all + creation was in sight. North and west was a level plain, fully + one hundred miles wide it seemed, and from anything I could + see it would not afford a traveler a single drink in the whole + distance or give a poor ox many mouthfuls of grass. On the + western edge it was bounded by a low, black and rocky range + extending nearly north and south for a long distance and no + pass though it which I could see, and beyond this range still + another one apparently parallel to it. In a due west course + from me was the high peak we had been looking at for a month, + and lowest place was on the north side, which we had named + Martin's Pass and had been trying so long to reach. This high + peak, covered with snow, glistened to the morning sun, and as + the air was clear from clouds or fog, and no dust or haze to + obscure the view, it seemed very near.<br> + </p> + <p>I had learned by experience that objects a day's walk + distant seemed close by in such a light, and that when clear + lakes appeared only a little distance in our front, we might + search and search and never find them. We had to learn how to + look for water in this peculiar way. In my Wisconsin travel I + had learned that when I struck a ravine I must go down to look + for living water, but here we must invariably travel upward + for the water was only found in the high mountains.<br> + </p> + <p>Prospects now seemed to me so hopeless, that I heartily + wished I was not in duty bound to stand by the women and small + children who could never reach a land of bread without + assistance. If I was in the position that some of them were + who had only themselves to look after, I could pick up my + knapsack and gun and go off, feeling I had no dependent ones + to leave behind. But as it was I felt I should be morally + guilty of murder if I should forsake Mr. Bennett's wife and + children, and the family of Mr. Arcane with whom I had been + thus far associated. It was a dark line of thought but I + always felt better when I got around to the determination, as + I always did, to stand by my friends, their wives and children + let come what might.<br> + </p> + <p>I could see with my glass the train of wagons moving slowly + over the plain toward what looked to me like a large lake. I + made a guess of the point they would reach by night, and then + took a straight course for it all day long in steady travel. + It was some time after dark, and I was still a quarter of a + mile from the camp fires, where in the bed of a cañon I + stepped into some mud, which was a sign of water. I poked + around in the dark for a while and soon found a little pool of + it, and having been without a drop of it for two days I lay + down and took a hasty drink. It did not seem to be very clear + or clean, but it was certainly wet, which was the main thing + just then. The next morning I went to the pond of water, and + found the oxen had been watered there. They stirred up the mud + a good deal and had drank off about all the clean part, which + seemed to refresh them very much. I found the people in the + camp on the edge of the lake I had seen from the mountain, and + fortunately it contained about a quarter of an inch of water. + They had dug some holes here, which filled up, and they were + using this water in the camp.<br> + </p> + <p>The ambitious mountain-climbers of our party had by this, + time, abandoned that sort of work, and I was left alone to + look about and try to ascertain the character of the road they + were to follow. It was a great deal to do to look out for food + for the oxen and for water for the camp, and besides all this + it was plain there were Indians about even if we did not see + them. There were many signs, and I had to be always on the + lookout to outgeneral them. When the people found I was in + camp this night they came around to our wagons to know what I + had seen and found, and what the prospects were ahead. Above + all they wanted to know how far it was, in my opinion to the + end of our journey. I listened to all their inquiries and told + them plainly what I had seen, and what I thought of the + prospect. I did not like telling the whole truth about it for + fear it might dampen their spirits, but being pressed for an + opinion I told them in plain words that it would at least be + another month before their journey would be ended. They seemed + to think I ought to be pretty good authority, and if I was not + mistaken, the oxen would get very poor and provisions very + scarce before we could pull through so long. I was up at day + break and found Mr. Bennett sitting by the fire. About the + first thing he said:—"Lewis, if you please I don't + want you hereafter to express your views so openly and + emphatically as you did last night about our prospects. Last + night when I went to bed I found Sarah (his wife) crying and + when pressed for the cause, she said she had heard your + remarks on the situation, and that if Lewis said so it must be + correct, for he knows more about it than all of you. She felt + that she and the children must starve."<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning Jayhawkers, and others of the train that + were not considered strictly of our own party, yoked up and + started due west across the level plain which I had predicted + as having no water, and I really thought they would never live + to get across to the western border. Mr. Culverwell and Mr. + Fish stayed with us, making another wagon in our train. We + talked about the matter carefully, I did not think it possible + to get across that plain in less than four or six days, and I + did not believe there was a drop of water on the route. To the + south of us was a mountain that now had considerable snow upon + its summit, and some small pine trees also. Doubtless we could + find plenty of water at the base, but being due south, it was + quite off our course. The prospects for reaching water were so + much better in that way that we finally decided to go there + rather than follow the Jayhawkers on their desolate tramp over + the dry plain.<br> + </p> + <p>So we turned up a cañon leading toward the mountain + and had a pretty heavy up grade and a rough bed for a road. + Part way up we came to a high cliff and in its face were + niches or cavities as large as a barrel or larger, and in some + of them we found balls of a glistening substance looking + something like pieces of varigated candy stuck together. The + balls were as large as small pumpkins. It was evidently food + of some sort, and we found it sweet but sickish, and those who + were so hungry as to break up one of the balls and divide it + among the others, making a good meal of it, were a little + troubled with nausea afterwards. I considered it bad policy to + rob the Indians of any of their food, for they must be pretty + smart people to live in this desolate country and find enough + to keep them alive, and I was pretty sure we might count them + as hostiles as they never came near our camp. Like other + Indians they were probably revengeful, and might seek to have + revenge on us for the injury. We considered it prudent to keep + careful watch for them, so they might not surprise us with a + volley of arrows.<br> + </p> + <p>The second night we camped near the head of the + cañon we had been following, but thus far there had + been no water, and only some stunted sage brush for the oxen, + which they did not like, and only ate it when near the point + of starvation. They stood around the camp looking as sorry as + oxen can. During the night a stray and crazy looking cloud + passed over us and left its moisture on the mountain to the + shape of a coat of snow several inches deep. When daylight + came the oxen crowded around the wagons, shivering with cold, + and licking up the snow to quench their thirst. We took + pattern after them and melted snow to get water for + ourselves.<br> + </p> + <p>By the looks of our cattle it did not seem as if they could + pull much, and light loads were advisable on this up grade. + Mr. Bennett was a carpenter and had brought along some good + tools in his wagon. These he reluctantly unloaded, and almost + everything else except bedding and provisions, and leaving + them upon the ground, we rolled up the hills slowly, with + loads as light as possible.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers and I went ahead with our guns to look out the way + and find a good camping place. After a few miles we got out of + the snow and out upon an incline, and in the bright clear + morning air the foot of the snowy part of the mountain seemed + near by and we were sure we could reach it before night. From + here no guide was needed and Rogers and I, with our guns and + canteens hurried on as fast as possible, when a camp was found + we were to raise a signal smoke to tell them where it was. We + were here, as before badly deceived as to the distance, and we + marched steadily and swiftly till nearly night before we + reached the foot of the mountain.<br> + </p> + <p>Here was a flat place in a table land and on it a low brush + hut, with a small smoke near by, which we could plainly see as + we were in the shade of the mountain, and that place lighted + up by the nearly setting sun. We looked carefully and + satisfied ourselves there was but one hut, and consequently + but few people could be expected. We approached carefully and + cautiously, making a circuit around so as to get between the + hut and the hill in case that the occupants should retreat in + that direction. It was a long time before we could see any + entrance to this wickiup, but we found it at last and + approached directly in front, very cautiously indeed: We could + see no one, and thought perhaps they were in ambush for us, + but hardly probable, as we had kept closely out of sight. We + consulted a moment and concluded to make an advance and if + possible capture some one who could tell us about the country, + as we felt we were completely lost. When within thirty yards a + man poked out his head out of a doorway and drew it back again + quick as a flash. We kept out our guns at full cock and ready + for use, and told Rogers to look out for arrows, for they + would come now if ever. But they did not pull a bow on us, and + the red-man, almost naked came out and beckoned for us to come + on which we did.<br> + </p> + <p>We tried to talk with the fellow in the sign language but + he could understand about as much as an oyster. I made a + little basin in the ground and filled it with water from our + canteens to represent a lake, then pointed in an inquiring way + west and north, made signs of ducks and geese flying and + squawking, but I did no seem to be able to get an idea into + his head of what we wanted. I got thoroughly provoked at him + and may have shown some signs of anger. During all this time a + child or two in the hut squalled terribly, fearing I suppose + they would all be murdered. We might have lost our scalps + under some circumstances, but we appeared to be fully the + strangest party, and had no fear, for the Indian had no weapon + about him and we had both guns and knives. The poor fellow was + shivering with cold, and with signs of friendship we fired off + one of the guns which waked him up a little and he pointed to + the gun and said "Walker," probably meaning the same + good Chief Walker who had so fortunately stopped us in our + journey down Green River. I understood from the Indian that he + was not friendly to Walker, but to show that he was all right + with us he went into the hut and brought out a handful of corn + for us to eat. By the aid of a warm spring near by they had + raised some corn here, and the dry stalks were standing + around.<br> + </p> + <p>As we were about to leave I told him we would come back, + next day and bring him some clothes if we could find any to + spare, and then we shouldered our guns and went back toward + the wagons, looking over our shoulders occasionally to see if + we were followed. We walked fast down the hill and reached the + camp about dark to find it a most unhappy one indeed. Mrs. + Bennett and Mrs. Arcane were in heart-rending distress. The + four children were crying for water but there was not a drop + to give them, and none could be reached before some time next + day. The mothers were nearly crazy, for they expected the + children would choke with thirst and die in their arms, and + would rather perish themselves than suffer the agony of seeing + their little ones gasp and slowly die. They reproached + themselves as being the cause of all this trouble. For the + love of gold they had left homes where hunger had never come, + and often in sleep dreamed of the bounteous tables of their + old homes only to be woefully disappointed in the morning. + There was great gladness when John Rogers and I appeared in + the camp and gave the mothers full canteens of water for + themselves and little ones, and there was tears of joy and + thankfulness upon their cheeks as they blessed us over and + over again.<br> + </p> + <p>The oxen fared very hard. The ground was made up of broken + stone, and all that grew was a dry and stunted brush not more + than six inches high, of which the poor animals took an + occasional dainty bite, and seemed hardly able to drag + along.<br> + </p> + <p>It was only seven or eight miles to the warm spring and all + felt better to know for a certainty that we would soon be safe + again. We started early, even the women walked, so as to favor + the poor oxen all we could. When within two miles of the water + some of the oxen lay down and refused to rise again, so we had + to leave them and a wagon, while the rest pushed on and + reached the spring soon after noon. We took water and went + back to the oxen left behind, and gave them some to drink. + They were somewhat rested and got up, and we tried to drive + them in without the wagons, but they were not inclined to + travel without the yoke, so we put it on them and hitched to + the wagon again. The yoke and the wagon seemed to brace them + up a good deal, and they went along thus much better than when + alone and scattered about, with nothing to lean upon.<br> + </p> + <p>The warm spring was quite large and ran a hundred yards or + more before the water sank down into the dry and thirsty + desert. The dry cornstalks of last years crop, some small + willows, sagebrush, weeds and grass suited our animals very + well, and they ate better than for a long time, and we thought + it best to remain two or three days to give them a chance to + get rest. The Indian we left here the evening before had gone + and left nothing behind but a chunk of crystallized rock salt. + He seemed to be afraid of his friends.<br> + </p> + <p>The range we had been traveling nearly parallel with seemed + to come to an end here where this snow peak stood, and + immediately north and south of this peak there seemed to be a + lower pass. The continuous range north was too low to hold + snow. In the morning I concluded to go to the summit of that + pass and with my glass have an extensive view. Two other boys + started with me, and as we moved along the snow line we saw + tracks of our runaway Indian in the snow, passing over a low + ridge. As we went on up hill our boys began to fall behind, + and long before night I could see nothing of them. The ground + was quite soft, and I saw many tracks of Indians which put me + on my guard. I reached the summit and as the shade of its + mountain began to make it a little dark, I built a fire of + sage brush, ate my grub, and when it was fairly dark, renewed + the fire and passed on a mile, where in a small ravine with + banks two feet high I lay down sheltered from the wind and + slept till morning. I did this to beat the Indian in his own + cunning.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning I reached the summit about nine o'clock, and + had the grandest view I ever saw. I could see north and south + almost forever. The surrounding region seemed lower, but much + of it black, mountainous and barren. On the west the snow peak + shut out the view in that direction. To the south the + mountains seemed to descend for more than twenty miles, and + near the base, perhaps ten miles away, were several smokes, + apparently from camp fires, and as I could see no animals or + camp wagons anywhere I presumed them to be Indians. A few + miles to the north and east of where I stood, and somewhat + higher, was the roughest piece of ground I ever saw. It stood + in sharp peaks and was of many colors, some of them so red + that the mountain looked red hot, I imagined it to be a true + volcanic point, and had never been so near one before, and the + most wonderful picture of grand desolation one could ever + see.<br> + </p> + <p>Toward the north I could see the desert the Jayhawkers and + their comrades had under taken to cross, and if their journey + was as troublesome as ours and very much longer, they might by + this time be all dead of thirst. I remained on this summit an + hour or so bringing my glass to bear on all points within my + view, and scanning closely for everything that might help us + or prove an obstacle to our progress. The more I looked the + more I satisfied myself that we were yet a long way from + California and the serious question of our ever living to get + there presented itself to me as I tramped along down the grade + to camp. I put down at least another month of heavy weary + travel before we could hope to make the land of gold, and our + stock of strength and provisions were both pretty small for so + great a tax upon them. I thought so little about anything else + that the Indians might have captured me easily, for I jogged + along without a thought of them. I thought of the bounteous + stock of bread and beans upon my father's table, to say + nothing about all the other good things, and here was I, the + oldest son, away out in the center of the Great American + Desert, with an empty stomach and a dry and parched throat, + and clothes fast wearing out with constant wear. And perhaps I + had not yet seen the worst of it. I might be forced to see + men, and the women and children of our party, choke and die, + powerless to help them. It was a darker, gloomier day than I + had ever known could be, and alone I wept aloud, for I + believed I could see the future, and the results were bitter + to contemplate. I hope no reader of this history may ever be + placed in a position to be thus tried for I am not ashamed to + say that I have a weak point to show under such circumstances. + It is not in my power to tell how much I suffered in my lonely + trips, lasting sometimes days and nights that I might give the + best advice to those of my party. I believed that I could + escape at any time myself, but all must be brought through or + perish, and with this all I knew I must not discourage the + others. I could tell them the truth, but I must keep my worst + apprehensions to myself lest they loose heart and hope and + faith needlessly.<br> + </p> + <p>I reached the camp on the third day where I found the boys + who went part way with me and whom I had out-walked. I related + to the whole camp what I had seen, and when all was told it + appeared that the route from the mountains westerly was the + only route that could be taken, they told me of a discovery + they had made of a pile of squashes probably raised upon the + place, and sufficient in number so that every person could + have one. I did not approve of this for we had no title to + this produce, and might be depriving the rightful owner of the + means of life. I told them not only was it wrong to rob them + of their food, but they could easily revenge themselves on us + by shooting our cattle, or scalp us, by gathering a company of + their own people together. They had no experience with red men + and were slow to see the results I spoke of as possible.<br> + </p> + <p>During my absence an ox had been killed, for some were + nearly out of provisions, and flesh was the only means to + prevent starvation. The meat was distributed amongst the + entire camp, with the understanding that when it became + necessary to kill another it should be divided in the same + way. Some one of the wagons would have to be left for lack of + animals to draw it. Our animals were so poor that one would + not last long as food. No fat could be found on the entire + carcass, and the marrow of the great bones was a thick liquid, + streaked with blood resembling corruption.<br> + </p> + <p>Our road led us around the base of the mountain; There were + many large rocks in our way, some as large as houses, but we + wound around among them in a very crooked way and managed to + get along. The feet of the oxen became so sore that we made + moccasins for them from the hide of the ox that was killed, + and with this protection they got along very well. Our trains + now consisted of seven wagons. Bennett had two; Arcane two; + Earhart Bros. one. Culverwell, Fish and others one; and there + was one other, the owners of which I have forgotten. The + second night we had a fair camp with water and pretty fair + grass and brush for the oxen. We were not very far from the + snow line and this had some effect on the country. When + Bennett retired that night he put on a camp kettle of the + fresh beef and so arranged the fire that it would cook slowly + and be done by daylight for breakfast. After an hour or so Mr. + Bennett went out to replenish the fire and see how the cooking + was coming on, and when I went to put more water in the + kettle, he found that to his disappointment, the most of the + meat was gone. I was rolled up in my blanket under his wagon + and awoke when he came to the fire and saw him stand and look + around as if to fasten the crime on the right party if + possible, but soon he came to me, and in a whisper said: + "Did you see anyone around the fire after we went to + bed?" I assured him I did not, and then he told me some + one had taken his meat. "Do you think," said he + "that any one is so near out of food as to be + starving?" "I know the meat is poor, and who ever + took it must be nearly starving." After a whispered + conversation we went to bed, but we both rose at daylight and, + as we sat by the fire, kept watch of those who got up and came + around. We thought we knew the right man, but were not sure, + and could not imagine what might happen if stealing grub + should begin and continue. It is a sort of unwritten law that + in parties such as ours, he who steals provisions forfeits his + life. We knew we must keep watch and if the offense was + repeated the guilty one might be compelled to suffer. Bennett + watched closely and for a few days I kept closely with the + wagons for fear there might be trouble. It was really the most + critical point in our experience. After three or four days all + hope of detecting the criminal had passed, and all danger was + over out of any difficulty.<br> + </p> + <p>One night we had a fair camp, as we were close to the base + of the snow butte, and found a hole of clear or what seemed to + be living water. There were a few minnows in it not much more + than an inch long. This was among a big pile of rocks, and + around these the oxen found some grass.<br> + </p> + <p>There now appeared to be a pass away to the south as a sort + of outlet to the great plain which lay to the north of us, but + immediately west and across the desert waste, extending to the + foot of a low black range of mountains, through which there + seemed to be no pass, the distant snowy peak lay still farther + on, with Martin's pass over it still a long way off though we + had been steering toward it for a month. Now as we were + compelled to go west this impassable barrier was in our way + and if no pass could be found in it we would be compelled to + go south and make no progress in a westerly direction.<br> + </p> + <p>Our trail was now descending to the bottom of what seemed + to be the narrowest part of the plain, the same one the + Jayhawkers had started across, further north, ten days before. + When we reached the lowest part of this valley we came to a + running stream, and, as dead grass could be seen in the bed + where the water ran very slowly, I concluded it only had water + in it after hard rains in the mountains, perhaps a hundred + miles, to the north. This water was not pure; it had a bitter + taste, and no doubt in dry weather was a rank poison. Those + who partook of it were affected about as if they had taken a + big dose of salts.<br> + </p> + <p>A short distance above this we found the trail of the + Jayhawkers going west, and thus we knew they had got safely + across the great plain and then turned southward. I hurried + along their trail for several miles and looked the country + over with field glass becoming fully satisfied we should find + no water till we reached the summit, of the next range, and + then fearing the party had not taken the precaution to bring + along some water I went back to them and found they had none. + I told them they would not see a drop for the next forty + miles, and they unloaded the lightest wagon and drove back + with everything they had which would hold water, to get a good + supply.<br> + </p> + <p>I turned back again on the Jayhawker's road, and followed + it so rapidly that well toward night I was pretty near the + summit, where a pass through this rocky range had been found + and on this mountain not a tree a shrub or spear of grass + could be found—desolation beyond conception. I carried + my gun along every day, but for the want of a chance to kill + any game a single load would remain in my gun for a month. + Very seldom a rabbit could be seen, but not a bird of any + kind, not even a hawk buzzard or crow made their appearance + here.<br> + </p> + <p>When near the steep part of the mountain, I found a dead ox + the Jayhawkers had left, as no camp could be made here for + lack of water and grass, the meat could not be saved. I found + the body of the animal badly shrunken, but in condition, as + far as putrefaction was concerned, as perfect as when alive. A + big gash had been cut in the ham clear to the bone and the sun + had dried the flesh in this. I was so awful hungry that I took + my sheath knife and cut a big steak which I devoured as I + walked along, without cooking or salt. Some may say they would + starve before eating such meat, but if they have ever + experienced hunger till it begins to draw down the life + itself, they will find the impulse of self preservation + something not to be controlled by mere reason. It is an + instinct that takes possession of one in spite of himself.<br> + </p> + <p>I went down a narrow, dark cañon high on both sides + and perpendicular, and quite so in many places. In one of the + perpendicular portions it seemed to be a varigated clay + formation, and a little water seeped down its face. Here the + Indians had made a clay bowl and fastened it to the wall so + that it would collect and retain about a quart of water, and I + had a good drink of water, the first one since leaving the + running stream. Near here I staid all night, for fear of + Indians who I firmly believe would have taken my scalp had a + good opportunity offered. I slept without a fire, and my + supply of meat just obtained drove hunger away.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning I started down the cañon which + descended rapidly and had a bed of sharp, volcanic, broken + rock. I could sometimes see an Indian track, and kept a sharp + lookout at every turn, for fear of revenge on account of the + store of squashes which had been taken. I felt I was in + constant danger, but could do nothing else but go on and keep + eyes open trusting to circumstances to get out of any sudden + emergency that might arise.<br> + </p> + <p>As I recollect this was Christmas day and about dusk I came + upon the camp of one man with his wife and family, the Rev. + J.W. Brier, Mrs. Brier and two sons. I inquired for others of + his party and he told me they were somewhere ahead. When I + arrived at his camp I found the reverend gentleman very cooly + delivering a lecture to his boys on education. It seemed very + strange to me to hear a solemn discourse on the benefits of + early education when, it seemed to me, starvation was staring + us all in the face, and the barren desolation all around gave + small promise of the need of any education higher than the + natural impulses of nature. None of us knew exactly where we + were, nor when the journey would be ended, nor when + substantial relief would come. Provisions were wasting away, + and some had been reduced to the last alternative of + subsisting on the oxen alone. I slept by the fire that night, + without a blanket, as I had done on many nights before and + after they hitched up and drove on in the morning I searched + the camp carefully, finding some bacon rinds they had thrown + away. As I chewed these and could taste the rich grease they + contained, I thought they were the sweetest morsels I ever + tasted.<br> + </p> + <p>Here on the north side of the cañon were some + rolling hills and some small weak springs, the water of which + when gathered together made a small stream which ran a few + yards down the cañon before it lost itself in the rocks + and sand. On the side there stood what seemed to be one half + of a butte, with the perpendicular face toward the + cañon. Away on the summit of the butte I saw an Indian, + so far away he looked no taller than my finger, and when he + went out of sight I knew pretty well he was the very fellow + who grew the squashes. I thought it might be he, at any + rate.<br> + </p> + <p>I now turned back to meet the teams and found them seven or + eight miles up the cañon, and although it was a down + grade the oxen were barely able to walk slowly with their + loads which were light, as wagons were almost empty except the + women and children. When night came on it seemed to be cloudy + and we could hear the cries of the wild geese passing east. We + regarded this as a very good sign and no doubt Owen's Lake, + which we expected to pass on this route, was not very far off. + Around in those small hills and damp places was some coarse + grass and other growths, but those who had gone before + devoured the best, so our oxen had a hard time to get anything + to eat.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning I shouldered my gun and followed down the + cañon keeping the wagon road, and when half a mile + down, at the sink of the sickly stream, I killed a wild goose. + This had undoubtedly been attracted here the night before by + the light of our camp fire. When I got near the lower end of + the cañon, there was a cliff on the north or right hand + side which was perpendicular or perhaps a little overhanging, + and at the base a cave which had the appearance of being + continuously occupied by Indians. As I went on down I saw a + very strange looking track upon the ground. There were hand + and foot prints as if a human being had crawled upon all + fours. As this track reached the valley where the sand had + been clean swept by the wind, the tracks became more plain, + and the sand had been blown into small hills not over three or + four feet high. I followed the track till it led to the top of + one of these small hills where a small well-like hole had been + dug and in this excavation was a kind of Indian mummy curled + up like a dog. He was not dead for I could see him move as he + breathed, but his skin looked very much like the surface of a + well dried venison ham. I should think by his looks he must be + 200 or 300 years old, indeed he might be Adam's brother and + not look any older than he did. He was evidently crippled. A + climate which would preserve for many days or weeks the + carcass of an ox so that an eatable round stake could be cut + from it, might perhaps preserve a live man for a longer period + than would be believed.<br> + </p> + <p>I took a good long look at the wild creature and during all + the time he never moved a muscle, though he must have known + some one was in the well looking down at him. He was probably + practicing on one of the directions for a successful political + career looking wise and saying nothing. At any rate he was not + going to let his talk get him into any trouble. He probably + had a friend around somewhere who supplied his wants. I now + left him and went farther out into the lowest part of the + valley. I could look to the north for fifty miles and it + seemed to rise gradually in that direction. To the south the + view was equally extended, and down that way a lake could be + seen. The valley was here quite narrow, and the lofty + snow-capped peak we had tried so hard to reach for the past + two months now stood before me. Its east side was almost + perpendicular and seemed to reach the sky, and the snow was + drifting over it, while here the day sun was shining + uncomfortably hot. I believe this mountain was really miles + from its base to its summit, and that nothing could climb it + on the eastern side except a bird and the only bird I had seen + for two months was the goose I shot. I looked every day for + some sort of game but had not seen any.<br> + </p> + <p>As I reached the lower part of the valley I walked over + what seemed to be boulders of various sizes, and as I stepped + from one to another the tops were covered with dirt and they + grew larger as I went along. I could see behind them and they + looked clear like ice, but on closer inspection proved to be + immense blocks of rock salt while the water which stood at + their bases was the strongest brine. After this discovery I + took my way back to the road made by the Jayhawkers and found + it quite level, but sandy. Following this I came to a campfire + soon after dark at which E. Doty and mess were camped. As I + was better acquainted I camped with them. They said the water + there was brackish and I soon found out the same thing for + myself. It was a poor camp; no grass, poor water and + scattering, bitter sage brush for food for the cattle. It + would not do to wait long here, and so they hurried on.<br> + </p> + <p>I inquired of them about Martin's Pass, as they were now + quite near it, and they said it was no pass at all, only the + mountain was a little lower than the one holding the snow. No + wagon could get over it, and the party had made up their minds + to go on foot, and were actually burning their wagons as fuel + with which to dry the meat of some of the oxen which they had + killed. They selected those which were weakest and least + likely to stand the journey, and by drying it the food was + much concentrated. They were to divide the provisions equally + and it was agreed thereafter every one must lookout for + himself and not expect any help from anyone. If he used up his + own provisions, he had no right to expect anyone else to + divide with him. Rice, tea and coffee were measured out by the + spoonful and the small amount of flour and bacon which + remained was divided out as evenly as possible. Everything was + to be left behind but blankets and provisions for the men were + too weak to carry heavy packs and the oxen could not be relied + on as beasts of burden and it was thought best not to load + them so as to needlessly break them down.<br> + </p> + <p>When these fellows started out they were full of spirit, + and the frolic and fun along the Platte river was something + worth laughing at but now they were very melancholy and talked + in the lowest kind of low spirits. One fellow said he knew + this was the Creator's dumping place where he had left the + worthless dregs after making a world, and the devil had + scraped these together a little. Another said this must be the + very place where Lot's wife was turned into a pillar of salt, + and the pillar been broken up and spread around the country. + He said if a man was to die he would never decay on account of + the salt. Thus the talk went on, and it seemed as if there + were not bad words enough in the language to properly express + their contempt and bad opinion of such a country as this. They + treated me to some of their meat, a little better than mine, + and before daylight in the morning I was headed back on the + trail to report the bad news I had learned of the + Jayhawkers.<br> + </p> + <p>About noon I met two of our camp companions with packs on + their backs following the wagon trail, and we stopped and had + a short talk. They were oldish men perhaps 50 years old, one a + Mr. Fish of Indiana and another named Gould. They said they + could perhaps do as well on foot as to follow the slow ox + teams, but when I told them what those ahead of them were + doing, and how they must go, they did not seem to be entirely + satisfied, as what they had on their backs would need to be + replenished, and no such chance could be expected. They had an + idea that the end of the journey was not as far off as I + predicted. Mr. Fish had a long nicely made, whiplash wound + around his waist, and when I asked him why he carried such a + useless thing, which he could not eat, he said perhaps he + could trade it off for something to eat. After we had set on a + sand hill and talked for awhile, we rose and shook each other + by the hand, and bade each other good bye with quivering lips. + There was with me a sort of expression I could not repel that + I should never see the middle aged men again.<br> + </p> + <p>As my road was now out and away from the mountains, and + level, I had no fear of being surprised by enemies, so walked + on with eyes downcast, thinking over the situation, and + wondering what would be the final outcome. If I were alone, + with no one to expect me to help them, I would be out before + any other man, but with women and children in the party, to go + and leave them would be to pile everlasting infamy on my head. + The thought almost made me crazy but I thought it would be + better to stay and die with them, bravely struggling to escape + than to forsake them in their weakness.<br> + </p> + <p>It was almost night before I reached our camp, and sitting + around our little fire I told, in the most easy way I could + the unfavorable news of the party in advance. They seemed to + look to me as a guide and adviser, I presume because I took + much pains to inform myself on every point and my judgment was + accepted with very little opposing opinion, they moved as I + thought best. During my absence from camp for the two days the + Indians had shot arrows into three of our oxen, and one still + had an arrow in his side forward of the hip which was a + dangerous place. To be sure and save him for ourselves we + killed him. Some were a little afraid to eat the meat thinking + perhaps the arrow might be poisoned, but I agreed that they + wanted meat themselves and would not do that. I told them if + they got a shot themselves it would be very likely to be a + poisoned arrow and they must take the most instant measures to + cut it out before it went into the blood. So we ventured to + dry the meat and take it with us.<br> + </p> + <p>Now I said to the whole camp "You can see how you have + displeased the red men, taking their little squashes, and when + we get into a place that suits them for that purpose, they may + meet us with a superior force and massacre us, not only for + revenge but to get our oxen and clothing." I told them we + must ever be on guard against a surprise, as the chances were + greatly against us.<br> + </p> + <p>We pulled the arrows out of the other oxen, and they seemed + to sustain no great injury from the wounds. This little faint + stream where we camped has since been named as Furnace Creek + and is still known as such. It was named in 1862 by some + prospectors who built what was called an air furnace on a + small scale to reduce some ore found near by, which they + supposed to contain silver, but I believe it turned out to be + lead and too far from transportations to be available.<br> + <br> + </p> + <hr> + <br> + <div align="center"> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-1376"></a>CHAPTER X.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Bennett and Arcane now concluded not to wait for me to go + ahead and explore out a way for them to follow, as I had done + for a long time, but to go ahead as it was evidently the best + way to turn south and make our own road, and find the water + and passes all for ourselves. So they hitched up and rolled + down the cañon, and out into the valley and then turned + due south. We had not gone long on this course before we saw + that we must cross the valley and get over to the west side. + To do this we must cross through some water, and for fear the + ground might be miry, I went to a sand hill near by and got a + mesquite stick about three feet long with which to sound out + our way. I rolled up my pants pulled off my moccasins and + waded in, having the teams stand still till I could find out + whether it was safe for them to follow or not by ascertaining + the depth of the water and the character of the bottom.<br> + </p> + <p>The water was very clear and the bottom seemed uneven, + there being some deep holes. Striking my stick on the bottom + it seemed solid as a rock, and breaking off a small projecting + point I found it to be solid rock salt. As the teams rolled + along they scarcely roiled the water. It looked to me as if + the whole valley which might be a hundred miles long might + have been a solid bed of rock salt. Before we reached this + water there were many solid blocks of salt lying around + covered with a little dirt on the top.<br> + </p> + <p>The second night we found a good spring of fresh water + coming out from the bottom of the snow peak almost over our + heads. The small flow from it spread out over the sand and + sank in a very short distance and there was some quite good + grass growing around.<br> + </p> + <p>This was a temporary relief, but brought us face to face + with stranger difficulties and a more hopeless outlook.<br> + </p> + <p>There was no possible way to cross this high steep range of + mountains anywhere to the north and the Jayhawkers had + abandoned their wagons and burned them, and we could no longer + follow on the trail they made. It seemed that there was no + other alternative but for us to keep along the edge of the + mountain to the south and search for another pass. Some who + had read Fremont's travels said that the range immediately + west of us must be the one he described, on the west side of + which was a beautiful country, of rich soil and having plenty + of cattle, and horses, and containing some settlers, but on + the east all was barren, dry, rocky, sandy desert as far as + could be seen. We knew this eastern side answered well the + description and believed that this was really the range + described, or at least it was close by.<br> + </p> + <p>We had to look over the matter very carefully and consider + all the conditions and circumstances of the case. We could see + the mountains were lower to the south, but they held no snow + and seemed only barren rocks piled up in lofty peaks, and as + we looked it seemed the most God-forsaken country in the + world.<br> + </p> + <p>We had been in the region long enough to know the higher + mountains contained most water, and that the valleys had bad + water or none at all, so that while the lower altitudes to the + south gave some promise of easier crossing it gave us no + promise of water or grass, without which we must certainly + perish. In a certain sense we were lost. The clear night and + days furnished us with the mean of telling the points of + compass as the sun rose and set, but not a sign of life in + nature's wide domain had been seen for a month or more. A vest + pocketful of powder and shot would last a good hunter till he + starved to death for there was not a living thing to shoot + great or small.<br> + </p> + <p>We talked over our present position pretty freely, and + every one was asked to speak his unbiased mind, for we knew + not who might be right or who might be wrong, and some one + might make a suggestion of the utmost value. We all felt + pretty much downhearted. Our civilized provisions were getting + so scarce that all must be saved for the women and children, + and the men must get along some way on ox meat alone. It was + decided not a scrap of anything that would sustain life must + go to waste. The blood, hide and intestines were all prepared + in some way for food. This meeting lasted till late at night. + If some of them had lost their minds I should not have been + surprised, for hunger swallows all other feelings. A man in a + starving condition is a savage. He may be as blood-shed and + selfish as a wild beast, as docile and gentle as a lamb, or as + wild and crazy as a terrified animal, devoid of affection, + reason or thought of justice. We were none of us as bad as + this, and yet there was a strange look in the eyes of some of + us sometimes, as I saw by looking round, and as others no + doubt realized for I saw them making mysterious glances even + in my direction.<br> + </p> + <p>Morning came and all were silent. The dim prospect of the + future seemed to check every tongue. When one left a water + hole he went away as if in doubt whether he would ever enjoy + the pleasure of another drop. Every camp was sad beyond + description, and no one can guide the pen to make it tell the + tale as it seemed to us. When our morning meal of soup and + meat was finished, Bennett's two teams, and the two of + Arcane's concluded their chances of life were better if they + could take some provisions and strike out on foot, and so they + were given what they could carry, and they arranged their + packs and bade us a sorrowful good bye hoping to meet again on + the Pacific Coast. There were genuine tears shed at the + parting and I believe neither party ever expected to see each + other in this life again.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett's two men were named Silas Helmer and S.S. or C.C. + Abbott, but I have forgotten the names of Arcane's men. Mr. + Abbott was from New York, a harness maker by trade, and he + took his circular cutting knife with him, saying it was light + to carry and the weapon he should need. One of them had a gun. + They took the trail taken by the Jayhawkers. All the + provisions they could carry besides their blankets could not + last them to exceed 10 days, and I well knew they could hardly + get off the desert in that time. Mr. Abbott was a man I loved + fondly. He was good company in camp, and happy and sociable. + He had shown no despondency at any time untill the night of + the last meeting and the morning of the parting. His chances + seemed to me to be much poorer than my own, but I hardly think + he realized it. When in bed I could not keep my thoughts back + from the old home I had left, where good water and a bountiful + spread were always ready at the proper hour. I know I dreamed + of taking a draft of cool, sweet water from a full pitcher and + then woke up with my mouth and throat as dry as dust. The good + home I left behind was a favorite theme about the campfire, + and many a one told of the dream pictures, natural as life, + that came to him of the happy Eastern home with comfort and + happiness surrounding it, even if wealth was lacking. The home + of the poorest man on earth was preferable to this place. + Wealth was of no value here. A hoard of twenty dollar gold + pieces could now stand before us the whole day long with no + temptation to touch a single coin, for its very weight would + drag us nearer death. We could purchase nothing with it and we + would have cared no more for it as a thing of value than we + did the desert sands. We would have given much more for some + of the snow which we could see drifting over the peak of the + great snow mountains over our heads like a dusty cloud.<br> + </p> + <p>Deeming it best to spare the strength as much as possible, + I threw away everything I could, retaining only my glass, some + ammunition, sheath knife and tin cup. No unnecessary burden + could be put on any man or beast, lest he lie down under it, + never to rise again. Life and strength were sought to be + husbanded in every possible way.<br> + </p> + <p>Leaving this camp where the water was appreciated we went + over a road for perhaps 8 miles and came to the mouth of a + rocky cañon leading up west to the summit of the range. + This cañon was too rough for wagons to pass over. Out + in the valley near its mouth was a mound about four feet high + and in the top of this a little well that held about a pailful + of water that was quite strong of sulphur. When stirred it + would look quite black. About the mouth of the well was a wire + grass that seemed to prevent it caving in. It seems the + drifting sand had slowly built this little mound about the + little well of water in a curious way. We spent the night here + and kept a man at the well all night to keep the water dipped + out as fast as it flowed, in order to get enough for ourselves + and cattle. The oxen drank this water better than they did the + brackish water of the former camp.<br> + </p> + <p>The plain was thinly scattered with sage brush, and up near + the base of the mountain some greasewood grew in little + bunches like currant bushes.<br> + </p> + <p>The men with wagons decided they would take this + cañon and follow it up to try to get over the range, + and not wait for me to go ahead and explore, as they said it + took too much time and the provisions, consisting now of only + ox meat were getting more precarious every day. To help them + all I could and if possible to be forewarned a little of + danger, I shouldered my gun and pushed on ahead as fast as I + could. The bottom was of sharp broken rock, which would be + very hard for the feet of the oxen, although we had rawhide + moccasins for them for some time, and this was the kind of + foot-gear I wore myself. I walked on as rapidly as I could, + and after a time came to where the cañon spread out + into a kind of basin enclosed on all sides but the entrance, + with a wall of high, steep rock, possible to ascend on foot + but which would apparently bar the further progress of the + wagons, and I turned back utterly disappointed. I got on an + elevation where I could look over the country east and south, + and it looked as if there was not a drop of water in its whole + extent, and there was no snow on the dark mountains that + stretched away to the southward and it seemed to me as if + difficulties beset me on every hand. I hurried back down the + cañon, but it was nearly dark before I met the wagons. + By a mishap I fell and broke the stock of my gun, over which I + was very sorry, for it was an excellent one, the best I ever + owned. I carried it in two pieces to the camp and told them + the way was barred, at which they could hardly endure their + disappointment. They turned in the morning, as the cattle had + nothing to eat here and no water, and not much of any food + since leaving the spring; they looked terribly bad, and the + rough road coming up had nearly finished them. They were yoked + up and the wagons turned about for the return. They went + better down hill, but it was not long before one of Bennett's + oxen lay down, and could not be persuaded to rise again. This + was no place to tarry in the hot sun, so the ox was killed and + the carcass distributed among the wagons. So little draft was + required that the remaining oxen took the wagon down. When + within two or three miles of the water hole one of Arcane's + oxen also failed and lay down, so they turned him out and when + he had rested a little he came on again for a while, but soon + lay down again.<br> + </p> + <p>Arcane took a bucket of water back from camp and after + drinking it and resting awhile the ox was driven down to the + spring.<br> + </p> + <p>This night we had another meeting to decide upon our course + and determine what to do. At this meeting no one was wiser + than another, for no one had explored the country and knew + what to expect. The questions that now arose were "How + long can we endure this work in this situation? How long will + our oxen be able to endure the great hardship on the small + nourishment they receive? How long can we provide ourselves + with food?"<br> + </p> + <p>We had a few small pieces of dry bread. This was kept for + the children giving them a little now and then. Our only food + was in the flesh of the oxen, and when they failed to carry + themselves along we must begin to starve. It began to look as + if the chances of leaving our bones to bleach upon the desert + were the most prominent ones.<br> + </p> + <p>One thing was certain we must move somewhere at once. If we + stay here we can live as long as the oxen do, and no longer, + and if we go on it is uncertain where to go, to get a better + place. We had guns and ammunition to be sure, but of late we + had seen no living creature in this desert wild. Finally Mr. + Bennett spoke and said:—<br> + </p> + <p>"Now I will make you a proposition. I propose that we + select two of our youngest, strongest men and ask them to take + some food and go ahead on foot to try to seek a settlement, + and food, and we will go back to the good spring we have just + left and wait for their return. It will surely not take them + more than ten days for the trip, and when they get back we + shall know all about the road and its character and how long + it will take us to travel it. They can secure some other kind + of food that will make us feel better, and when the oxen have + rested a little at the spring we can get out with our wagons + and animals and be safe. I think this is the best and safest + way."<br> + </p> + <p>"Now what do you all say?" After a little + discussion all seemed to agree that this was the best, and now + it remained to find the men to go. No one offered to accept + the position of advance messengers. Finally Mr. Bennett said + he knew one man well enough to know that he would come back if + he lived, and he was sure he would push his way through. + "I will take Lewis (myself) if he will consent to + go." I consented, though I knew it was a hazardous + journey, exposed to all sorts of things, Indians, climate and + probable lack of water, but I thought I could do it and would + not refuse. John Rogers a large strong Tennessee, man was then + chosen as the other one and he consented also.<br> + </p> + <p>Now preparations began, Mr. Arcane killed the ox which had + so nearly failed, and all the men went to drying and preparing + meat. Others made us some new mocassins out of rawhide, and + the women made us each a knapsack.<br> + </p> + <p>Our meat was closely packed, and one can form an idea how + poor our cattle were from the fact that John and I actually + packed seven-eighths of all the flesh of an ox into our + knapsacks and carried it away. They put in a couple of + spoonfuls of rice and about as much tea. This seemed like + robbery to the children, but the good women said that in case + of sickness even that little bit might save our lives. I wore + no coat or vest, but took half of a light blanket, while + Rogers wore a thin summer coat and took no blanket. We each + had a small tin cup and a small camp kettle holding a quart. + Bennett had me take his seven-shooter rifle, and Rogers had a + good double barreled shot gun. We each had a sheath knife, and + our hats were small brimmed, drab affairs fitting close to the + head and not very conspicuous to an enemy as we might rise up + from behind a hill into possible views. We tried on our packs + and fitted the straps a little so they would carry easy. They + collected all the money there was in camp and gave it to us. + Mr. Arcane had about $30 and others threw in small amounts + from forty cents upward. We received all sorts of advice. + Capt. Culverwell was an old sea faring man and was going to + tell us how to find our way back, but Mr. Bennett told the + captain that he had known Lewis as a hunter for many years, + and that if he went over a place in the daytime he could find + his way back at night every time. Others cautioned us about + the Indians and told us how to manage. Others told us not to + get caught in deep snow which we might find on the + mountains.<br> + </p> + <p>This advice we received in all the kindness in which it was + given, and then we bade them all good bye. Some turned away, + too much affected to approach us and others, shook our hands + with deep feeling, grasping them firmly and heartily hoping we + would be successful and be able to pilot them out of this + dreary place into a better land. Every one felt that a little + food to make a change from the poor dried meat would be + acceptable. Mr. and Mrs. Bennett and J.B. Arcane and wife were + the last to remain when the others had turned away. They had + most faith in the plan and felt deeply. Mrs. Bennett was the + last, and she asked God to bless us and bring some food to her + starving children.<br> + </p> + <p>We were so much affected that we could not speak and + silently turned away and took our course again up the canyon + we had descended the night before.<br> + </p> + <p>After a while we looked back and when they saw us turn + around, all the hats and bonnets waved us a final parting.<br> + </p> + <p>Those left in the camp were Asabel, Bennett and Sarah his + wife, with three children, George, Melissa, and Martha; J.B. + Arcane and wife with son Charles. The youngest children were + not more than two years old. There were also the two Earhart + brothers, and a grown son, Capt. Culverwell, and some others I + cannot recall; eleven grown people in all, besides a Mr. Wade, + his wife and three children who did not mingle with our party, + but usually camped a little distance off, followed our trail, + but seemed to shun company. We soon passed round a bend of the + cañon, and then walked on in silence.<br> + </p> + <p>We both of us meditated some over the homes of our fathers, + but took new courage in view of the importance of our mission + and passed on as fast as we could.<br> + </p> + <p>By night we were far up the mountain, near the + perpendicular rough peak, and far above us on a slope we could + see some bunches of grass and sage brush. We went to this and + found some small water holes. No water ran from them they were + so small. Here we staid all night. It did not seem very far to + the snowy peak to the north of us. Just where we were seemed + the lowest pass, for to the south were higher peaks and the + rocks looked as if they were too steep to be got over.<br> + </p> + <p>Through this gap came a cold breeze, and we had to look + round to get a sheltered place in which to sleep. We lay down + close together, spoon fashion, and made the little blanket do + as cover for the both of us. In the morning we filled our + canteens, which we had made by binding two powder cans + together with strips of cloth, and started for the summit near + by. From this was the grandest sight we ever beheld. Looking + east we could see the country we had been crawling over since + November 4th. "Just look at the cursed country we have + come over!" said Rogers as he pointed over it. To the + north was the biggest mountain we ever saw, peaks on peaks and + towering far above our heads, and covered with snow which was + apparently everlasting.<br> + </p> + <p>This mountain seemed to have very few trees on it, and in + extent, as it reached away to the north seemed interminable. + South was a nearly level plain, and to the west I thought I + could dimly see a range of mountains that held a little snow + upon their summits, but on the main range to the south there + was none. It seemed to me the dim snowy mountains must be as + far as 200 miles away, but of course I could not judge + accurately. After looking at this grand, but worthless + landscape long enough to take in its principal features we + asked each other what we supposed the people we left behind + would think to see mountains so far ahead. We knew that they + had an idea that the coast range was not very far ahead, but + we saw at once to go over all these mountains and return + within the limits of fifteen days which had been agreed upon + between us, would probably be impossible, but we must try as + best we could, so down the rocky steep we clambered and + hurried on our way. In places the way was so steep that we had + to help each other down, and the hard work made us perspire + freely so that the water was a prime necessity. In one place + near here, we found a little water and filled our canteens, + besides drinking a good present supply. There were two low, + black rocky ranges directly ahead of us which we must + cross.<br> + </p> + <p>When part way down the mountain a valley or depression + opened up in that direction up which it seemed as if we could + look a hundred miles. Near by and a short distance north was a + lake of water and when we reached the valley we crossed a + clear stream of water flowing slowly toward the lake.<br> + </p> + <p>Being in need of water, we rushed eagerly to it and + prepared to take a big drink, but the tempting fluid was as + salt as brine and made our thirst all the more intolerable. + Nothing grew on the bank of this stream and the bed was of + hard clay, which glistened in the sun.<br> + </p> + <p>We now began the ascent of the next ridge, keeping a + westernly course, and walked as fast as we could up the rough + mountain side. We crossed the head of a cañon near the + summit about dark, and here we found a trail, which from + indications we knew to be that of the Jayhawkers, who had + evidently been forced to the southward of the course they + intended to take. They had camped here and had dug holes in + the sand in search of water, but had found none.<br> + </p> + <p>We staid all night here and dug around in some other places + in the bottom of the cañon, in the hope to have better + luck than they did, but we got no water anywhere.<br> + </p> + <p>We seemed almost perishing for want of water, the hard + exercise made us perspire so freely. In the morning we started + on, and near the summit we came to the dead body of Mr. Fish, + laying in the hot sun, as there was no material near here with + which his friends could cover the remains. This Mr. Fish was + the man who left camp some two weeks before in company with + another and who carried the long whiplash wound about his + body, in hope he could somewhere be able to trade it for + bread. No doubt in this very place where he breathed his last, + his bones still lie.<br> + </p> + <p>As we came in sight of the next valley, we could see a lake + of water some distance south of our western course.<br> + </p> + <p>We had followed the Jayhawkers trail thus far, but as we + found no water in small holes in the rocks as we were likely + to do when we were the first to pass, we decided to take a new + route in the hope to find a little water in this way, for we + had no hope of finding it in any other. This valley we now + crossed seemed to come to an end about ten miles to the north + of us. To the south it widened out, enclosing the lake spoken + of. This valley was very sandy and hard to walk over. When + about halfway across we saw some ox tracks leading toward the + lake, and in the hope we might find the water drinkable we + turned off at right angles to our course and went that way + also. Long before we reached the water of the lake, the bottom + became a thin, slimy mud which was very hard on our mocassins. + When we reached the water we found it to be of a wine color, + and so strongly alkaline as to feel slippery to the touch, and + under our feet.<br> + </p> + <p>This side trip, had cost us much exertion and made us feel + more thirsty than ever.<br> + </p> + <p>We turned now west again, making for a cañon, up + which we passed in the hope we should at some turn find a + little basin of rain water in some rock. We traveled in it + miles and miles, and our mouths became so dry we had to put a + bullet or a small smooth stone in and chew it and turn it + around with the tongue to induce a flow of saliva. If we saw a + spear of green grass on the north side of a rock, it was + quickly pulled and eaten to obtain the little moisture it + contained.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus we traveled along for hours, never speaking, for we + found it much better for our thirst to keep our mouths closed + as much as possible, and prevent the evaporation. The dry air + of that region took up water as a sponge does. We passed the + summit of this ridge without finding any water, and on our way + down the western side we came to a flat place where there was + an Indian hut made of small brush. We now thought there surely + must be some water near and we began a thorough search. The + great snow mountain did not seem far off, but to the south and + southwest a level or inclined plain extended for a long + distance. Our thirst began to be something terrible to endure, + and in the warm weather and hard walking we had secured only + two drinks since leaving camp.<br> + </p> + <p>We were so sure that there must be water near here that we + laid our knapsacks down by the little hut and looked around in + every possible place we could think of. Soon it got dark and + then we made a little fire as a guide and looked again. Soon + the moon arose and helped us some, and we shouted frequently + to each other so as not to get lost.<br> + </p> + <p>We were so nearly worn out that we tried to eat a little + meat, but after chewing a long time, the mouth would not + moisten it enough so we could swallow, and we had to reject + it. It seemed as if we were going to die with plenty of food + in our hand, because we could not eat it.<br> + </p> + <p>We tried to sleep but could not, but after a little rest we + noticed a bright star two hours above the horizon, and from + the course of the moon we saw the star must be pretty truly + west of us. We talked a little, and the burden of it was a + fear that we could not endure the terrible thirst a while + longer. The thought of the women and children waiting for our + return made us feel more desperate than if we were the only + ones concerned. We thought we could fight to the death over a + water hole if we could only secure a little of the precious + fluid. No one who has ever felt the extreme of thirst can + imagine the distress, the dispair, which it brings. I can find + no words, no way to express it so others can understand.<br> + </p> + <p>The moon gave us so much light that we decided we would + start on our course, and get as far as we could before the hot + sun came out, and so we went on slowly and carefully in the + partial darkness, the only hope left to us being that our + strength would hold out till we could get to the shining snow + on the great mountain before us. We reached the foot of the + range we were descending about sunrise. There was here a wide + wash from the snow mountain, down which some water had + sometime run after a big storm, and had divided into little + rivulets only reaching out a little way before they had sunk + into the sand.<br> + </p> + <p>We had no idea we could now find any water till we at least + got very near the snow, and as the best way to reach it we + turned up the wash although the course was nearly to the + north. The course was up a gentle grade and seemed quite sandy + and not easy to travel. It looked as if there was an all day + walk before us, and it was quite a question if we could live + long enough to make the distance. There were quite strong + indications that the water had run here not so very long ago, + and we could trace the course of the little streams round + among little sandy islands. A little stunted brush grew here + but it was so brittle that the stems would break as easy as an + icicle.<br> + </p> + <p>In order to not miss a possible bit of water we separated + and agreed upon a general course, and that if either one found + water he should fire his gun as a signal. After about a mile + or so had been gone over I heard Roger's gun and went in his + direction. He had found a little ice that had frozen under the + clear sky. It was not thicker than window glass. After putting + a piece in our mouths we gathered all we could and put it into + the little quart camp kettle to melt. We gathered just a + kettle full, besides what we ate as we were gathering, and + kindled a little fire and melted it.<br> + </p> + <p>I can but think how providential it was that we started in + the night for in an hour after the sun had risen that little + sheet of ice would have melted and the water sank into the + sand. Having quenched our thirst we could now eat, and found + that we were nearly starved also. In making this meal we used + up all our little store of water, but we felt refreshed and + our lives renewed so that we had better courage to go on.<br> + </p> + <p>We now took our course west again taking a bee line for a + bluff that lay a little to the south of the big snow mountain. + On and on we walked till the dark shadow of the great mountain + in the setting sun was thrown about us, and still we did not + seem more than half way to the bluff before us.<br> + </p> + <p>All the way had been hill and very tiresome walking. There + was considerable small brush scattered about, here and there, + over this steeply inclined plain.<br> + </p> + <p>We were still several miles from the base of this largest + of the mountains and we could now see that it extended west + for many miles. The buttes to the south were low, black and + barren, and to the west as far as we could see there were no + mountains with any snow. As the sun got further down we could + see a small smoke curling up near the base of the mountain, + and we thought it must be some signal made by the Indians, as + we had often seen them signal in that way, but we stopped and + talked the matter over, and as we were yet a long way from the + bluff which had been our objective point, we concluded we + would investigate the smoke signal a little closer. So we set + off toward it in the dusk and darkness and when within about a + mile we found we were in a tract that had been somewhat + beaten. Feeling with my fingers I was quite sure I could + distinguish ox tracks, and then was quite sure that we had + overtaken the Jayhawkers, or at least were on their trail. And + then I thought perhaps they had fallen among the Indians, who + now might be feasting on their oxen and it became necessary to + use great caution in approaching the little smoke.<br> + </p> + <p>We took a circuitous route and soon saw that the persons + were on a little bench above us and we kept very cautious and + quiet, listening for any sounds that might tell us who they + were.<br> + </p> + <p>If they were Indians we should probably hear some of their + dogs, but we heard none, and kept creeping closer and closer, + till we were within fifty yards without hearing a sound to + give us any idea of who they were.<br> + </p> + <p>We decided to get our guns at full cock and then hail the + camp, feeling that we had a little the advantage of position. + We hailed and were answered in English. "Don't + Shoot" said we and they assured us they had no idea of + such a thing, and asked us to come in. We found here to our + surprise, Ed Doty, Tom Shannon, L.D. Stevens, and others whom + I do not recollect, the real Jayhawkers. They gave us some + fresh meat for supper, and near the camp were some water holes + that answered well for camp purposes.<br> + </p> + <p>Here an ox had given out and they had stopped long enough + to dry the meat, while the others had gone on a day ahead.<br> + </p> + <p>Coming around the mountain from the north was quite a well + defined trail, leading to the west and they said they were + satisfied some one lived at the end of it, and they were going + to follow it if it lead to Mexico or anywhere else. They said + that Mr. Brier and his family were still on behind, and alone. + Every one must look out for himself here, and we could not do + much for another in any way.<br> + </p> + <p>We inquired of them about the trail over which they had + come, and where they had found water, and we told them of our + experience in this respect. We then related how our train + could not go over the mountains with wagons, how they had + returned to the best spring, and that we started to go through + to the settlements to obtain relief while they waited for our + return. We explained to them how they must perish without + assistance. If we failed to get through, they could probably + live as long as the oxen lasted and would then perish of + starvation. We told them how nearly we came to the point of + perishing that very morning, of thirst, and how we were saved + by finding a little patch of ice in an unexpected place, and + were thus enabled to come on another days travel.<br> + </p> + <p>These men were not as cheerful as they used to be and their + situation and prospects constantly occupied their minds. They + said to us that if the present trail bore away from the + mountain and crossed the level plain, that there were some of + them who could not possibly get along safely to the other + side. Some were completely discouraged, and some were + completely out of provisions and dependent on those who had + either provisions or oxen yet on hand. An ox was frequently + killed, they said, and no part of it was wasted. At a camp + where there was no water, for stewing, a piece or hide would + be prepared for eating by singeing off the hair and then + roasting in the fire. The small intestines were drawn through + the fingers to clean them, and these when roasted made very + fair food.<br> + </p> + <p>They said they had been without water for four or five days + at a time and came near starving to death, for it was + impossible to swallow food when one became so thirsty. They + described the pangs of hunger as something terrible and not to + be described. They were willing to give us any information we + desired and we anxiously received all we could, for on our + return we desired to take the best possible route, and we thus + had the experience of two parties instead of one. They told us + about the death of Mr. Fish and Mr. Isham, and where we would + find their bodies if we went over their trail.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning we shouldered our packs again and took the + trail leading to the west, and by night we had overtaken the + advance party of the Jayhawkers, camped in a cañon + where there was a little water, barely sufficient for their + use. We inquired why they did not take the trail leading more + directly west at the forks, and they said they feared it would + lead them into deep snow which would be impassible. They said + they considered the trail they had taken as altogether the + safest one.<br> + </p> + <p>We met Bennett and Arcane's teamsters, and as we expected + they were already out of grub and no way to get anymore. When + the party killed an ox they had humbly begged for some of the + poorest parts, and thus far were alive. They came to us and + very pitifully told us they were entirely out, and although an + ox had been killed that day they had not been able to get a + mouthful. We divided up our meat and gave them some although + we did not know how long it would be before we would ourselves + be in the same situation.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus far we had not seen anything to shoot, big or little + although we kept a sharp lookout.<br> + </p> + <p>The whole camp was silent, and all seemed to realize their + situation. Before them was a level plain which had the + appearance of being so broad as to take five or six days to + cross. Judging by the look from the top of the mountain as we + came over, there was little to hope for in the way of water. + We thought it over very seriously. All the water we could + carry would be our canteens full, perhaps two drinks apiece + and the poor meat had so little nourishment that we were weak + and unable to endure what we once could.<br> + </p> + <p>We were alone, Rogers and I, in interest at any rate, even + if there were other men about. For the time it really seemed + as if there was very little hope for us and I have often + repeated the following lines as very closely describing my own + feelings at that time.<br> + </p> + <div align="center"> + Oh hands, whose loving, gentle grasp I loosed.<br> + When first this weary journey was begun.<br> + If I could feel your touch as once I could.<br> + How gladly would I wish my work undone.<br> + <i>Harriet Keynon</i>.<br> + </div> + <p>During the evening, I had a talk with Capt. Asa Haines, in + which he said he left a good home in Illinois, where he had + everything he could wish to eat, and every necessary comfort, + and even some to spare, and now he felt so nearly worn out + that he had many doubts whether he could live to reach the + mountains, on the other side. He was so deeply impressed that + he made me promise to let his wife and family know how I found + him and how he died, for he felt sure he would never see the + California mines. I said I might not get through myself, but + he thought we were so young and strong that we would struggle + through. He said if he could only be home once more he would + be content to stay. This was the general tenor of the + conversation. There was no mirth, no jokes, and every one + seemed to feel that he was very near the end of his life, and + such a death as stood before them, choking, starving in a + desert was the most dreary outlook I ever saw.<br> + </p> + <p>This camp of trouble, of forlorn hope, on the edge of a + desert stretching out before us like a small sea, with no hope + for relief except at the end of a struggle which seemed almost + hopeless, is more than any pen can paint, or at all describe. + The writer had tried it often. Picture to yourself, dear + reader the situation and let your own imagination do the rest. + It can never come up to the reality.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning, as Rogers and I were about to start, + several of the oldest men came to us with their addresses and + wished us to forward them to their families if we ever got + within the reach of mails. These men shed tears, and we did + also as we parted. We turned silently away and again took up + our march.<br> + </p> + <p>As we went down the cañon we came to one place where + it was so narrow, that a man or a poor ox could barely squeeze + through between the rocks, and in a few miles more reached the + open level plain. When three or four miles out on the trail + and not far from the hills we came to a bunch of quite tall + willows. The center of the bunch had been cut out and the + branches woven in so as to make a sort of corral. In the + center of this was a spring of good water and some good grass + growing around. This was pretty good evidence that some one + had been here before. We took a good drink and filled our + canteens anew, for we did not expect to get another drink for + two or three days at least.<br> + </p> + <p>We took the trail again and hurried on as the good water + made us feel quite fresh. After a few miles we began to find + the bones of animals, some badly decayed and some well + preserved. All the heads were those of horses, and it puzzled + us to know where they came from. As we passed along we noticed + the trail was on a slight up grade and somewhat crooked. If we + stepped off from it the foot sank in about two inches in dirt + finer than the finest flour. The bones were scattered all + along, sometimes the bones of several animals together. Was it + the long drive, poison water, or what? It was evident they had + not been killed but had dropped along the way.<br> + </p> + <p>It was a dreary trail at best, and these evidences of death + did not help to brighten it in the least. We wondered often + where it led to and what new things would be our experience. + After walking fast all day we came to quite an elevation, + where we could stand and look in all directions. The low black + range where we left the Jayhawkers was in sight, and this spur + of the great snowy mountains extended a long way to the south, + and seemed to get lower and lower, finally ending in low rocky + buttes, a hundred miles away. Some may think this distance + very far to see, but those who have ever seen the clear + atmosphere of that region will bear me out in these + magnificent distances. Generally a mountain or other object + seen at a distance would be three or four times as far off as + one would judge at first sight, so deceptive are appearances + there. The broad south end of the great mountain which we + first saw the next morning after we left the wagons, was now + plain in sight, and peak after peak extending away to the + north, all of them white with snow. Standing thus out in the + plain we could see the breadth of the mountain east and west, + and it seemed as though it must have been nearly a hundred + miles. The south end was very abrupt and sank as one into a + great plain in which we stood, twenty miles from the + mountain's base.<br> + </p> + <p>To the northwest we could see a clay lake, or at least that + was what we called it, and a line of low hills seemed to be an + extension of the mountain in a direction swinging around to + the south to enclose this thirsty, barren plain before us, + which was bounded by mountains or hills on these sides. To the + south this range seemed to get higher, and we could see some + snow capped mountains to the south of our westerly course. The + low mountains as those seen in the northwest direction is the + same place now crossed by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and + known as the Tehachipi pass, the noted loop, in which the + railroad crosses itself, being on the west slope and Ft. Tejon + being on the same range a little further south where the + Sierra Nevada mountains and the Coast Range join. The first + mountain bearing snow, south of our course was probably what + is known as Wilson's peak, and the high mountains still + farther south, the San Bernardino mountains. There were no + names there known to us nor did we know anything of the + topography of the country except that we supposed a range of + mountains was all that separated us from California.<br> + </p> + <p>We were yet in the desert, and if we kept our due west + course, we must cross some of the snow before us which if + steep gave us some doubts whether we could get through or + not.<br> + </p> + <p>We did not know exactly what the people left behind would + do if we were gone longer than we intended, but if they + started on it was quite plain to us they would be lost, and as + seven days had already passed we were in serious trouble for + fear we could not complete the trip in the time allotted to + us. We surveyed the plain and mountains to learn its situation + and then started, on following our trail. As we went on we + seemed to be coming to lower ground, and near our road stood a + tree of a kind we had not seen before. The trunk was about six + or eight inches through and six or eight feet high with arms + at the top quite as large as the body, and at the end of the + arms a bunch of long, stiff bayonet shaped leaves.<br> + </p> + <p>It was a brave little tree to live in such a barren + country. As we walked on these trees were more plenty and some + were much larger than the first. As we came to the lowest part + of the valley there seemed to be little faint water ways + running around little clouds of stunted shrubs, but there was + no signs that very much water ever run in them. We thought + that these were the outlet of the big sandy lake which might + get full of water and overflow through these channels after + some great storm.<br> + </p> + <p>As this low ground was quite wide we lost our trail in + crossing it, and we separated as we went along, looking to + find it again, till nearly dark when we looked for a camping + place. Fortunately we found a little pond of rain water, and + some of our strange trees that were dead gave us good material + for a fire, so that we were very comfortable indeed, having + both drink and fire.<br> + </p> + <p>Starting on again our course was now ascending slightly, + and we came across more and more of the trees, and larger ones + than at first. We saw some that seemed to have broken down + with their own weight. The bayonet shaped leaves seemed to + fall off when old and the stalk looked so much like an old + overgrown cabbage stump that we name them "Cabbage + trees," but afterward learned they were a species of + Yucca. We were much worried at loosing our trail and felt that + it would be quite unsafe to try to cross the mountain without + finding it again, so we separated, Rogers going northwest, and + I southwest, agreeing to swing round so as to meet again about + noon, but when we met, neither of us had found a trail, and we + were still about 10 miles from the foothills. Rogers said he + had heard some of the people say that the trail leading from + Salt Lake to Los Angeles crossed such a mountain in a low + pass, with very high mountains on each side, and he supposed + that the high mountain to the south must be the one where the + trail crossed, but as this would take us fully fifty miles + south of our course as we supposed it was we hesitated about + going there, and concluded we would try the lowest place in + the mountain first, and if we failed we could then go and try + Roger's route, more to the south.<br> + </p> + <p>So we pushed on, still keeping a distance apart to look out + for the trail, and before night, in the rolling hills, we saw + here and there faint traces of it, which grew plainer as we + went along, and about sundown we reached some water holes and + from some old skulls of oxen lying around the ground showing + that it had at some previous time been a camping ground. We + found some good large sage brush which made a pretty good + fire, and if we could have had a little fresh meat to roast we + thought we were in a good position for supper. But that poor + meat was pretty dry food. However it kept us alive, and we + curled up together and slept, for the night was cool, and we + had to make the little blanket do its best. We thought we + ought to find a little game, but we had not seen any to shoot + since we started.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning the trail led us toward the snow, and as we + went along, a brave old crow surprised us by lighting on a + bush near the trail, and we surprised him by killing him with + a charge of shot. "Here's your fresh meat," said + Rogers as he put it into his knapsack to cook for supper, and + marched on. As we approached the summit we could see, on the + high mountains south of us, some trees, and when we came near + the highest part of our road there were some juniper trees + near it, which was very encouraging. We crossed over several + miles of hard snow, but it moistened up our moccassins and + made them soft and uncomfortable. After we had turned down the + western slope we killed a small hawk. "Here's your + meat" said I, as the poor thin fellow was stowed away for + future grub, to cook with the crow.<br> + </p> + <p>When we got out of the snow we had lost the trail again but + the hills on the sides were covered with large brush, and on a + higher part of the mountain south, were some big trees, and we + began to think the country would change for the better pretty + soon. We followed down the ravine for many miles, and when + this came out into a larger one, we were greatly pleased at + the prospect, for down the latter came a beautiful little + running brook of clear pure water, singing as it danced over + the stones, a happy song and telling us to drink and drink + again, and you may be sure we did drink, for it had been + months and months since we had had such water, pure, sweet, + free from the terrible alkali and stagnant taste that had been + in almost every drop we had seen. Rogers leveled his shot gun + at some birds and killed a beautiful one with a top knot on + his head, and colors bright all down his neck. It was a + California quail. We said birds always lived where human + beings did, and we had great hopes born to us of a better + land. I told John that if the folks were only there now I + could kill game enough for them.<br> + </p> + <p>We dressed our three birds and got them boiling in the camp + kettle, and while they were cooking talked over the outlook + which was so flattering that our tongues got loose and we + rattled away in strange contrast to the ominous silence of a + week ago. While eating our stew of crow and hawk, we could see + willows alders and big sage brush around and we had noticed + what seemed to be cottonwoods farther down the cañon, + and green trees on the slope of the mountain. We were sure we + were on the edge of the promised land and were quite light + hearted, till we began to tell of plans to get the good people + out who were waiting for us beside the little spring in the + desert. We talked of going back at once, but our meat was too + near gone, and we must take them something to encourage them a + little and make them strong for the fearful trip. As to these + birds—the quail was as superb a morsel as ever a man did + eat; the hawk was pretty fair and quite good eating; but that + abominable crow! His flesh was about as black as his feathers + and full of tough and bony sinews. We concluded we did not + want any more of that kind of bird, and ever since that day, + when I have heard people talk of "eating crow" as a + bitter pill, I think I know all about it from experience.<br> + </p> + <p>There seemed to be no other way for us but to push on in + the morning and try to obtain some relief for the poor women + and children and then get back to them as fast as ever we + could, so we shouldered our packs and went on down the + cañon as fast as we could. We came soon to evergreen + oaks and tall cottonwoods, and the creek bottom widened out to + two hundred yards. There were trees on the south side and the + brush kept getting larger and larger. There was a trail down + this cañon, but as it passed under fallen trees we knew + it could not have been the same one we had been following on + the other side of the summit, and when we discovered a bear + track in a soft place we knew very well it was not a trail + intended for human beings, and we might be ordered out almost + any moment.<br> + </p> + <p>On the high bold grassy point about four hundred yards we + saw two horses that held their heads aloft and gave a snort, + then galloped away out of sight. About 10 o'clock I felt a + sudden pain in my left knee, keen and sharp, and as we went + along it kept growing worse. I had to stop often to rest, and + it was quite plain that if this increased or continued I was + sure enough disabled, and would be kept from helping those + whom we had left. Nerved with the idea we must get help to + them, and that right soon, I hobbled along as well as I could, + but soon had to say to Rogers that he had better go on ahead + and get help and let me come on as best I could, for every + moment of delay was a danger of death to our party who trusted + us to get them help. Rogers refused to do this, he said he + would stay with me and see me out, and that he could not do + much alone, and had better wait till I got better. So we + worked along through the tangled brush, being many times + compelled to wade the stream to get along, and this made our + moccasins soft and very uncomfortable to wear. I endured the + pain all day, and we must have advanced quite a little + distance in spite of my lameness, but I was glad when night + came and we camped in the dark brushy cañon, having a + big fire which made me quite comfortable all night, though it + was quite cold, and we had to keep close together so as to use + the blanket. I felt a little better in the morning and after + eating some of our poor dried meat, which was about as poor as + crow, and I don't know but a little worse, we continued on our + way.<br> + </p> + <p>The tangle got worse and worse as we descended, and at + times we walked in the bed of the stream in order to make more + headway, but my lameness increased and we had to go very slow + indeed. About noon we came to what looked like an excavation, + a hole four feet square or more it looked to be, and on the + dirt thrown out some cottonwood trees had grown, and one of + the largest of these had been cut down sometime before. This + was the first sign of white men we had seen and it was + evidently an attempt at mining, no one knows how long ago. It + encouraged us at any rate, and we pushed on through brush and + briers, tangles of wild rose bushes and bushes of every sort, + till all of a sudden we came out into an open sandy valley, + well covered with sage brush and perhaps a hundred yards wide; + probably more.<br> + </p> + <p>The hills on the south side had on them some oak trees and + grassy spots, but the north side was thickly covered with + brush. Our beautiful little brook that had kept us company + soon sank into the dry sand out of sight, and we moved rather + slowly along every little while we spoke of the chances of + wagons ever getting through the road we had come, and the hope + that my lameness might not continue to retard our progress in + getting back to the place of our starting, that the poor + waiting people might begin to get out of the terrible country + they were in and enjoy as we had done, the beautiful running + stream of this side of the mountain. If I did not get better + the chances were that they would perish, for they never could + come through alone, as the distance had proved much greater + than we had anticipated, and long dry stretches of the desert + were more than they would be prepared for. As it was we feared + greatly that we had consumed so much time they would get + impatient and start out and be lost.<br> + </p> + <p>I continued to hobble along down the barren valley as well + as I could and here and there some tracks of animals were + discovered, but we could not make out whether they were those + of domestic cattle or elk. Soon, on the side of a hill, rather + high up a pack of prairie wolves were snarling around the + carcass of some dead animal, and this was regarded as another + sign that more and better meat could be found, for these + animals only live where some sort of game can be found, and + they knew better than we that it was not for their health to + go into the barren desert.<br> + </p> + <p>Before us now was a spur from the hills that reached nearly + across our little valley and shut out further sight in that + direction and when we came to it we climbed up over it to + shorten the distance. When the summit was reached a most + pleasing sight filled our sick hearts with a most + indescribable joy. I shall never have the ability to + adequately describe the beauty of the scene as it appeared to + us, and so long as I live that landscape will be impressed + upon the canvas of my memory as the most cheering in the + world. There before us was a beautiful meadow of a thousand + acres, green as a thick carpet of grass could make it, and + shaded with oaks, wide branching and symmetrical, equal to + those of an old English park, while all over the low mountains + that bordered it on the south and over the broad acres of + luxuriant grass was a herd of cattle numbering many hundreds + if not thousands. They were of all colors shades and sizes. + Some were calmly lying down in happy rumination, others + rapidly cropping the sweet grass, while the gay calves worked + off their superfluous life and spirit in vigorous exercise or + drew rich nourishment in the abundant mother's milk. All + seemed happy and content, and such a scene of abundance and + rich plenty and comfort bursting thus upon our eyes which for + months had seen only the desolation and sadness of the desert, + was like getting a glimpse of Paradise, and tears of joy ran + down our faces. If ever a poor mortal escapes from this world + where so many trials come, and joys of a happy Heaven are + opened up to him, the change cannot be much more that this + which was suddenly opened to us on that bright day which was + either one of the very last of December 1849 or the first of + January 1850, I am inclined to think it was the very day of + the new year, but in our troubles, the accuracy of the + calendar was among the least of our troubles. If it was, as I + believe the beginning of the year, it was certainly a most + auspicious one and one of the most hopeful of my life.<br> + </p> + <p>And <i>now if the others were only here</i>, was the burden + of our thought, and a serious awakening from the dream of + beauty and rich plenty spread out before us. This + ring-streaked and speckled herd might be descended directly + from Jacob's famous herd, blessed of the Lord, and while we + could not keep our thoughts from some sad doubts as to the + fate of those whom we had left behind, we tried to be + generally hopeful and courageous and brightened up our steps + to prepare for a relief and return to the hot dry plain beyond + the mountains where they were awaiting us, no doubt with much + tribulation.<br> + </p> + <p>I now thought of myself and my failing knee and we sat down + under the shade of an oak to rest, and after a little, better + feeling seemed to come. Down by a deep gully cut by the rains + a yearling steer was feeding, and I took the rifle and crawled + down near him and put first one ball through him, and then + another, before he fell dead on the other side of the wash, + when we sprang with all the agility of a deer. We quickly got + some good meat and had it roasted and eaten almost quicker + than can be told. We hardly realized how near starved we were + till we had plenty before us again. We ate till we were + satisfied for once, and for the first time in many long dreary + weeks. We kindled a fire and commenced drying the meat, one + sleeping while the other kept the fire, and changing off every + few hours. What a rest that was! One who has never been nearly + worn out and starved, down nearly to the point of death can + never know what it is to rest in comfort. No one can tell. It + was like a dream, a sweet, restful dream where troubles would + drown themselves in sleep. How we felt the strength come back + to us with that food and the long draughts of pure clear + water.<br> + </p> + <p>The miserable dried meat in our knapsacks was put away and + this splendid jerked beef put in its place. The wolves came to + our camp and howled in dreadful disappointment at not getting + a meal. Rogers wanted me to shoot the miserable howlers, but I + let them have their concert out, and thought going without + their breakfast must be punishment enough for them. As our + moccasins were worn out we carefully prepared some sinews from + the steer and made new foot gear from the green hide which + placed us in shape for two or three week's walking.<br> + </p> + <p>The morning was clear and pleasant. We had our knapsacks + filled with good food we had prepared, and were enjoying the + cool breeze which came up the valley, when we heard faintly + the bark of a dog, or at least we thought we did. If this were + true there must be some one living not very far away and we + felt better. I was still very lame and as we started along the + walking seemed to make it worse again, so that it was all I + could do to follow John on the trail down the valley. As we + went along a man and woman passed us some distance on the + left, and they did not seem to notice us, though we were in + plain sight. They were curiously dressed. The woman had no + hoops nor shoes, and a shawl wound about her neck and one end + thrown over her head, was a substitute bonnet. The man had + sandals on his feet, with white cotton pants, a calico shirt, + and a wide rimmed, comical, snuff-colored hat. We at once put + them down as Spaniards, or then descendants of Mexico, and if + what we had read about them in books was true, we were in a + set of land pirates, and blood thirsty men whom we might have + occasion to be aware of. We had never heard a word of Spanish + spoken, except perhaps a word or two upon the plains which + some fellow knew, and how we could make ourselves known and + explain who we were was a puzzle to us.<br> + </p> + <p>Difficulties began to arise in our minds now we were in an + apparent land of plenty, but in spite of all we went along as + fast as my lame knee would permit me to do. A house on higher + ground soon appeared in sight. It was low, of one story with a + flat roof, gray in color, and of a different style of + architecture from any we had ever seen before. There was no + fence around it, and no animals or wagons in sight, nor person + to be seen. As we walked up the hill toward it I told John our + moccasins made of green hide would betray us as having + recently killed an animal, and as these people might be the + owners and detain us by having us arrested for the crime, and + this would be especially bad for us just now. We determined to + face the people, and let the fact of our close necessities be + a sufficient excuse for us, if we could make them understand + our circumstances.<br> + </p> + <p>As we came near the house no person was seen, but a mule + tied to a post told us there was some one about, and a man + soon made an appearance, dressed about the same style as the + one we had passed a short time before. As we came near we + saluted him, bidding him good morning, and he in turn touched + his hat politely, saying something in reply which we were not + able to understand. I showed him that I was lame, and taking + out some money pointed to the mule, but he only shook his head + and said something I could not comprehend. Rogers now began + looking around the house, which was built of sun-dried bricks + about one by two feet in size, and one end was used as a + storehouse. As he looked in, a man came to him and wanted a + black, patent leather belt which Rogers wore, having a + watch-pocket attached to it. He offered a quart or more of + coarse corn meal, and Rogers made the trade.<br> + </p> + <p>We tried to inquire where we were or where ought to go, but + could get no satisfactory answer from the man, although when + we spoke San Francisco he pointed to the north. This was not + very satisfactory to us and we seemed as badly lost as ever, + and where or which way to go we did not seem very successful + in finding out. So we concluded to go on a little way at + least, and I hobbled off in the direction he pointed, which + was down the hill and past a small, poorly fenced field which + was sometimes cultivated, and across the stream which followed + down the valley. Passing on a mile or two we stopped on a big + patch of sand to rest.<br> + </p> + <p>I told Rogers I did not think this course would lead us to + any place in a month, and just now a delay was ruinous to us + and to those who were waiting for us, and it would not do for + us to go off to the north to find a settlement. While I was + expressing my opinion on matters and things, Rogers had wet up + a part of his meal with water and put it to bake on the cover + of his camp kettle. There was a fair sized cake for each of + us, and it was the first bread of any kind we had eaten for + months, being a very acceptable change from an exclusively + meat diet. Looking up the valley we could see a cloud of dust, + thick and high, and soon several men on horseback who came at + a rushing gallop. I told Rogers they were after us, and + believed them to be a murderous set who might make trouble for + us. I hastily buried our little store of money in the sand, + telling him that if they got us, they would not get our money. + Putting our guns across our laps in an easy position we had + them cocked and ready for business, and our knives where we + could get them handy, and awaited their arrival.<br> + </p> + <p>They came on with a rush until within a short distance and + halted for consultation just across the creek, after which one + of them advanced toward us and as he came near us we could see + he was a white man, who wished us good evening in our own + language. We answered him rather cooly, still sitting in the + sand and he no doubt saw that we were a little suspicious of + the crowd. He asked us where we were from, and we told him our + circumstances and condition and that we would like to secure + some means of relief for the people we had left in the desert, + but our means were very limited and we wanted to do the best + we could. He said we were about 500 miles from San Francisco, + not far from 100 miles from the coast and thirty miles from + Los Angeles. We were much afraid we would not be able to get + anything here, but he told us to go across the valley to a + large live oak tree which he pointed out, and said we would + find an American there, and we should wait there till morning. + He said he would go back and stay at the house we had passed, + and would do what he could to assist us to go to Los Angeles + where we could get some supplies. Then he rode away, and as we + talked it over we saw no way but to follow the directions of + our newfound friend.<br> + </p> + <p>It seemed now that my lameness had indeed been a blessing. + If I had been able to walk we would now have been well on + toward the seashore, where we could have found no such friend + as this who had appeared to us. The way seemed clearer to us, + but the time for our return was almost up and there was no way + of getting back in fifteen days as we had agreed upon, so + there was great danger to our people yet. It seemed very + likely to take us twenty four or thirty days at best, and + while they probably had oxen enough to provide them food for + so long a time they might take a notion to move on, which + would be fatal.<br> + </p> + <p>At the big live oak tree we found an American camper, who + was on his way to the gold mines. He was going a new route and + said the mines could be reached much quicker than by going up + the coast by way of San Francisco. A new company with wagons + was soon to start out to break the road, and when they crossed + the east end of the valley he would follow them. I think this + man's name was Springer. He had come by way of the Santa Fe + route, and the people of Los Angeles had told him this route + was an easy one being often traveled by saddle horses, and if + the company could make it possible for wagons they could have + all the cattle they wanted to kill along the road as their pay + for doing the work. Our new friend lay down early, and as he + saw we were scant in blankets he brought some to us for our + use, which were most thankfully received.<br> + </p> + <p>As soon as we were alone Rogers mixed up some more of the + meal which we baked in our friend's frying pan, and we baked + and ate and baked and ate again, for our appetites were + ravenous, and the demand of our stomachs got the better of the + judgment of our brains.<br> + </p> + <p>It was hard to find time to sleep, we were so full of the + plans about the way, which we must manage to get relief for + the people. We had many doubts if animals could ever come over + the route we had come over, from deliberation we decided that + by selecting a route with that idea in our minds, we could get + mules and perhaps horses over the country. We perhaps could go + more to the north and take the Jayhawkers trail, but this + would take us fully a hundred miles farther and four or five + days longer, at the best, and every moment of delay was to be + carefully avoided as a moment of danger to our friends.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus again, our sleep was troubled from another cause. + Being so long unaccustomed to vegetable food, and helped on, + no doubt, by our poor judgment in gauging the quantity of our + food, we were attacked by severe pains in the stomach and + bowels, from which we suffered intensely. We arose very early + and with a very light breakfast, for the sickness admonished + us, we started back for the house we had first passed, at + which our friend on horseback, said he would spend the night + and where we were to meet him this morning. He said he could + talk Spanish all right and would do all he could to help + us.<br> + </p> + <p>Our suffering and trouble caused us to move very slowly, so + that it was nine or ten o'clock before we reached the house, + and we found they had two horses all ready for us to go to Los + Angeles. There were no saddles for us, but we thought this + would be a good way to cure my lameness. The people seemed to + be friends to us in every way. We mounted, having our packs on + our backs, and our guns before us, and with a friendly parting + to the people who did not go, all four of us started on a trip + of thirty miles to the town of Los Angeles.<br> + </p> + <p>When we reached the foot of the mountain which was very + steep but not rocky, John and I dismounted and led our animals + to the top, where we could see a long way west, and south, and + it looked supremely beautiful. We could not help comparing it + to the long wide, desert we had crossed, and John and myself + said many times how we wished the folks were here to enjoy the + pleasant sight, the beautiful fertile picture.<br> + </p> + <p>There appeared to be one quite large house in sight, and + not far off, which the man told us was the Mission of San + Fernando, a Roman Catholic Church and residence for priests + and followers. The downward slope of the mountain was as steep + as the other side and larger, and John and I did not attempt + to mount till we were well down on the level ground again, but + the other two men rode up and down without any trouble. We + would let our leaders get half a mile or so ahead of us and + then mount and put our horses to a gallop till we overtook + them again. We had walked so long that riding was very + tiresome to us, and for comfort alone we would have preferred + the way on foot, but we could get along a little faster, and + the frequent dismounting kept us from becoming too lame from + riding.<br> + </p> + <p>We passed the Mission about noon or a little after, and a + few miles beyond met a man on horseback who lived up to the + north about a hundred miles. His name was French and he had a + cattle range at a place called Tejon (Tahone). Our friends + told him who we were, and what assistance we needed. Mr. + French said he was well acquainted in Los Angeles and had been + there some time, and that all the travelers who would take the + Coast route had gone, those who had come by way of Salt Lake + had got in from two to four weeks before, and a small train + which had come the Santa Fe Route was still upon the road. He + said Los Angeles was so clear of emigrants that he did not + think we could get any help there at the present time.<br> + </p> + <p>"Now," said Mr. French—"You boys can't + talk Spanish and it is not very likely you will be able to get + any help. Now I say, you boys turn back and go with me and I + will give you the best I have, I will let you have a yoke of + gentle oxen, or more if you need them, and plenty of beans, + which are good food for I live on them; besides this I can + give an Indian guide to help you back. Will that do?" + After a moment we said we doubted if oxen could be got over + the road, and if they were fat now they would soon get poor, + and perhaps not stand it as well as the oxen which had became + used to that kind of life, and of those they had in camp all + they needed. We wanted to get something for the women and + children to ride, for we knew they must abandon the wagons, + and could not walk so far over that dry, rough country. + "Well," said Mr. French:—"I will stop at + the place you were this morning—I know them + well—and they are good folks, and I am sure when I tell + them what you want they will help you if they possibly can. + This looks to me to be the most sensible course." After + talking an hour our two companions advised us that the + proposition of Mr. French seemed the most reasonable one that + appeared. But for us to go clear back to his range would take + up so much valuable time that we were almost afraid of the + delay which might mean the destruction of our friends. French + said he had a pack saddle, with him taking it home, and we + could put it on one of our horses, and when we came back to + Los Angeles could leave it at a certain saloon or place he + named and tell them it belonged to him and to keep it for him. + I have forgotten the name of the man who kept the saloon. We + agreed to this, and bidding our two companions farewell, we + turned back again with Mr. French.<br> + </p> + <p>When night came we were again at the Mission we had passed + on the way down. We were kindly treated here, for I believe + Mr. French told them about us. They sent an Indian to take our + horses, and we sat down beside the great house. There were + many smaller houses, and quite a large piece of ground fenced + in by an adobe wall. The roof of the buildings was like that + of our own buildings in having eaves on both, sides, but the + covering was of semi circular tiles made and burned like + brick. Rows of these were placed close together, the hollow + sides up, and then another course over the joints, placed with + the round side up, which made a roof that was perfectly + waterproof, but must have been very heavy. These tiles were + about two feet long. All the surroundings, and general make up + of the place were new to us and very wonderful. They gave us + good dried meat to eat and let us sleep in the big house on + the floor, which was as hard as granite, and we turned over a + great many times before daylight, and were glad when morning + came. We offered to pay them, but they would take nothing from + us, and we left leading our horses over the steep mountain, + and reaching the house again late in the day. They turned our + horses loose and seemed disposed to be very friendly and + disposed to do for us what they could.<br> + </p> + <p>We were very tired and sat down by the side of the house + and rested, wondering how we would come out with our + preparations. They were talking together, but we could not + understand a word. A dark woman came out and gave each of us a + piece of cooked squash. It seemed to have been roasted in the + ashes and was very sweet and good. These were all signs of + friendship and we were glad of the good feeling. We were given + a place to sleep in the house, in a store room on a floor + which was not soft. This was the second house we had slept in + since leaving Wisconsin, and it seemed rather pent-up to + us.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning we were shown a kind of mill like a coffee + mill, and by putting in a handful of wheat from a pile and + giving the mill a few turns we were given to understand we + should grind some flour for ourselves. We went to work with a + will, but found it, hard, slow work.<br> + </p> + <p>After a little, our dark woman came and gave us each a + pancake and a piece of meat, also another piece of roasted + squash, for our breakfast, and this, we thought, was the best + meal we had ever eaten. The lady tried to talk to us but we + could not understand the words, and I could convey ideas to + her better by the sign language than any other way. She + pointed out the way from which we came and wanted to know how + many day's travel it might be away, and I answered by putting + my hand to my head and closing my eyes, which was repeated as + many times as there had been nights on our journey, at which + she was much surprised that the folks were so far away. She + then place her hand upon her breast and then held it up, to + ask how many women there were, and I answered her by holding + up three fingers, at which she shrugged her shoulders and + shook her head. Then pointing to a child by her side, four or + five years old, and in the same way asked how many children, I + answered by holding up four fingers, and she almost cried, + opening her mouth in great surprise, and turned away.<br> + </p> + <p>I said to Rogers that she was a kind, well meaning woman, + and that Mr. French had no doubt told her something of our + story. Aside from her dark complexion her features reminded me + of my mother, and at first sight of her I thought of the best + woman on earth my own far off mother, who little knew the + hardships we had endured. We went to work again at the mill + and after a while the woman came again and tried to talk and + to teach us some words of her own language. She place her + finger on me and said <i>ombre</i> and I took out my little + book and wrote down <i>ombre</i> as meaning man, and in the + same way she taught me that <i>mujer</i>, was woman; + <i>trigo</i>, wheat; <i>frijoles</i>, beans; <i>carne</i>, + meat; <i>calazasa</i>, pumpkin; <i>caballo</i>, horse; + <i>vaca</i>, cow; <i>muchacho</i>, boy, and several other + words in this way.<br> + </p> + <p>I got hold of many words thus to study, so that if I ever + came back I could talk a little and make myself understood as + to some of the common objects and things of necessary use. + Such friendly, human acts shown to us strangers, were + evidences of the kindest disposition. I shall never forget the + kindness of those original Californians. When in Walker's camp + and finding he was friendly to Mormonism we could claim that + we were also Mormons, but the good people though well known + Catholics, did not so much as mention the fact nor inquire + whether we favored that sect or not. We were human beings in + distress and we represented others who were worse even than + we, and those kind acts and great good will, were given freely + because we were fellow human beings.<br> + </p> + <p>The provisions we prepared were, a sack of small yellow + beans; a small sack of wheat, a quantity of good dried meat, + and some of the coarse, unbolted flour we had made at the + mills. They showed us how to properly pack the horse, which + was a kind of work we had not been use to, and we were soon + ready for a start. I took what money we had and put it on a + block, making signs for them to take what the things were + worth. They took $30, and we were quite surprised to get two + horses, provisions, pack-saddles and ropes, some of the latter + made of rawhide and some of hair, so cheaply, but we afterward + learned that the mares furnished were not considered of much + value, and we had really paid a good fair price for + everything. To make it easy for us they had also fixed our + knapsacks on the horses.<br> + </p> + <p>The good lady with the child, came out with four oranges + and pointed to her own child and then to the East, put them in + the pack meaning we should carry them to the children. With a + hearty good bye from them, and a polite lifting of our hats to + them we started on our return, down toward the gentle decline + of the creek bottom, and then up the valley, the way we came. + Toward night we came to a wagon road crossing the valley, and + as we well knew we could not go up the tangled creek bed with + horses we took this road to the north, which took a dry ravine + for its direction, and in which there was a pack trail, and + this the wagons were following. We kept on the trail for a few + miles, and overtook them in their camp, and camped with them + over night. We told them we considered our outfit entirely too + small for the purpose intended, which was to bring two women + and four children out of the desert, but that being the best + we could get, we were taking this help to them and hoped to + save their lives. Our mission became well known and one man + offered to sell us a poor little one-eyed mule, its back all + bare of covering from the effect of a great saddle sore that + had very recently healed. He had picked it up somewhere in + Arizona where it had been turned out to die, but it seemed the + beast had enough of the good Santa Ana stock in it to bring it + through and it had no notion of dying at the present time, + though it was scarcely more than a good fair skeleton, even + then. The beast became mine at the price of $15, and the + people expressed great sympathy with us and the dear friends + we were going to try to save.<br> + </p> + <p>Another man offered a little snow-white mare, as fat as + butter, for $15, which I paid, though it took the last cent of + money I had. This little beauty of a beast was broken to lead + at halter, but had not been broken in any other way. Rogers + said he would ride her where he could, and before she got to + the wagons she would be as gentle as a lamb. He got a bridle + and tried her at once, and then there was a scene of rearing, + jumping and kicking that would have made a good Buffalo Bill + circus in these days. No use, the man could not be thrown off, + and the crowd cheered and shouted to Rogers + to—"Hold her level."<br> + </p> + <p>After some bucking and backing on the part of the mare and + a good deal of whipping and kicking on the part of the man, + and a good many furious clashes in lively, but very awkward + ways, the little beast yielded the point, and carried her load + without further trouble.<br> + </p> + <p>The people gave us a good supper and breakfast, and one man + came and presented us with 25 pounds of unbolted wheat flour. + They were of great assistance to us in showing us how to pack + and sack our load, which was not heavy and could be easily + carried by our two animals which we had at first. However we + arranged a pack on the mule and this gave me a horse to ride + and a mule to lead, while Rogers rode his milk-white steed and + led the other horse. Thus we went along and following the + trail soon reached the summit from which we could see off to + the East a wonderful distance, probably 200 miles, of the dry + and barren desert of hill and desolate valley over which we + had come.<br> + </p> + <p>The trail bearing still to the north from this point, we + left and turned due east across the country, and soon came to + a beautiful lake of sweet fresh water situated well up toward + the top of the mountain. This lake is now called Elizabeth + Lake. Here we watered our animals and filled our canteens, + then steered a little south of east among the Cabbage trees, + aiming to strike the rain water hole where we had camped as we + came over. We reached the water hole about noon and here found + the Jayhawkers trail, which we took. They had evidently + followed us and passed down the same brushy cañon while + we having taken a circuitous route to the north, had gone + around there. Getting water here for ourselves and horses, we + went back to the trail and pushed on as fast as the animals + could walk, and as we now knew where we could get water, we + kept on till after dark, one of us walking to keep the trail, + and some time in the night reached the Willow corral I have + spoken of before. There was good water here, but the + Jayhawker's oxen had eaten all the grass that grew in the + little moist place around, and our animals were short of feed. + One of us agreed to stand guard the fore part of the night and + the other later, so that we might not be surprised by Indians + and lose our animals. I took the first watch and let the blaze + of the fire go out so as not to attract attention and as I sat + by the dull coals and hot ashes I fell asleep. Rogers happened + to wake and see the situation, and arose and waked me again + saying that we must be more careful or the Indians would get + our horses. You may be sure I kept awake the rest of my + watch.<br> + </p> + <p>Next day we passed the water holes at the place where we + had so stealthily crawled up to Doty's camp when coming out. + These holes held about two pails of water each, but no stream + run away from them. Our horses seemed to want water badly for + when they drank they put their head in up to their eyes and + drank ravenously.<br> + </p> + <p>Thirty miles from here to the next water, Doty had told us, + and night overtook us before we could reach it, so a dry camp + was made. Our horses began now to walk with drooping heads and + slow, tired steps, so we divided the load among them all and + walked ourselves. The water, when reached proved so salt the + horses would not drink it, and as Doty had told us the most + water was over the mountain ahead of us, we still followed + their trail which went up a very rocky cañon in which + it was hard work for the horses to travel. The horses were all + very gentle now and needed some urging to make them go. + Roger's fat horse no longer tried to unseat its rider or its + pack, but seemed to be the most downhearted of the train. The + little mule was the liveliest, sharpest witted animal of the + whole. She had probably traveled on the desert before and knew + better how to get along. She had learned to crop every spear + of grass she came to, and every bit of sage brush that offered + a green leaf was given a nip. She would sometimes leave the + trail and go out to one side to get a little bunch of dry + grass, and come back and take her place again as if she knew + her duty. The other animals never tried to do this. The mule + was evidently better versed in the art of getting a living + than the horses.<br> + </p> + <p>Above the rough bed of the cañon the bottom was + gravelly and narrow, and the walls on each side nearly + perpendicular. Our horses now poked slowly along and as we + passed the steep wall of the cañon the white animal + left the trail and walked with full force, head first, against + the solid rock. She seemed to be blind, and though we went + quickly to her and took off the load she carried, she had + stopped breathing by the time we had it done. Not knowing how + far it was to water, nor how soon some of our other horses + might fall, we did not tarry, but pushed on as well as we + could, finding no water. We reached the summit and turned down + a ravine, following the trail, and about dark came to the + water they had told us about, a faint running stream which + came out of a rocky ravine and sank almost immediately in the + dry sand. There was water enough for us, but no grass. It + seemed as if the horses were not strong enough to carry a + load, and as we wanted to get them through if possible, we + concluded to bury the wheat and get it on our return. We dug a + hole and lined it with fine sticks, then put in the little bag + and covered it with dry brush, and sand making the surface as + smooth as if it had never been touched, then made our bed on + it. The whole work was done after dark so the deposit could + not be seen by the red men and we thought we had done it + pretty carefully.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning the little mule carried all the remaining + load, the horses bearing only their saddles, and seemed hardly + strong enough for that. There was now seven or eight miles of + clean loose sand to go over, across a little valley which came + to an end about ten miles north of us, and extended south to + the lake where we went for water on our outward journey and + found it red alkali. Near the Eastern edge of the valley we + turned aside to visit the grave of Mr. Isham, which they had + told us of. They had covered his remains with their hands as + best they could, piling up a little mound of sand over it. Our + next camp was to be on the summit of the range just before us, + and we passed the dead body of Mr. Fish, we had seen before, + and go on a little to a level sandy spot in the ravine just + large enough to sleep on. This whole range is a black mass + rocky piece of earth, so barren that not a spear of grass can + grow, and not a drop of water in any place. We tied our horses + to rocks and there they staid all night, for if turned loose + there was not a mouthful of food for them to get.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning an important question was to be decided, and + that was whether we should continue to follow the Jayhawker's + trail which led far to the north to cross the mountain, which + stood before us, a mass of piled-up rocks so steep that it + seemed as if a dog could hardly climb it. Our wagons were + nearly due east from this point over the range, and not more + than fifty miles away, while to go around to the north was + fully a hundred miles, and would take us four or five days to + make. As we had already gone so long we expected to meet them + any day trying to get out, and if we went around we might miss + them. They might have all been killed by Indians or they might + have already gone. We had great fears on their account. If + they had gone north they might have perished in the snow.<br> + </p> + <p>The range was before us, and we must get to the other side + in some way. We could see the range for a hundred miles to the + north and along the base some lakes of water that must be + salt. To the south it got some lower, but very barren and + ending in black, dry buttes. The horses must have food and + water by night or we must leave them to die, and all things + considered it seemed to be the quickest way to camp to try and + get up a rough looking cañon which was nearly opposite + us on the other side. So we loaded the mule and made our way + down the rocky road to the ridge, and then left the + Jayhawker's trail, taking our course more south so as to get + around a salt lake which lay directly before us. On our way we + had to go close to a steep bluff, and cross a piece of ground + that looked like a well dried mortar bed, hard and smooth as + ice, and thus got around the head of a small stream of clear + water, salt as brine. We now went directly to the mouth of the + cañon we had decided to take, and traveled up its + gravelly bed. The horses now had to be urged along constantly + to keep them moving and they held their heads low down as they + crept along seemingly so discouraged that they would much + rather lie down and rest forever than take another step. We + knew they would do this soon in spite of all our urging, if we + could not get water for them. The cañon was rough + enough where we entered it, and a heavy up grade too, and this + grew more and more difficult as we advanced, and the rough + yellowish, rocky walls closed in nearer and nearer together as + we ascended.<br> + </p> + <p>A perpendicular wall, or rather rise, in the rocks was + approached, and there was a great difficulty to persuade the + horses to take exertion to get up and over the small + obstruction, but the little mule skipped over as nimbly as a + well-fed goat, and rather seemed to enjoy a little variety in + the proceedings. After some coaxing and urging the horses took + courage to try the extra step and succeeded all right, when we + all moved on again, over a path that grew more and more + narrow, more and more rocky under foot at every moment. We + wound around among and between the great rocks, and had not + advanced very far before another obstruction, that would have + been a fall of about three feet had water been flowing in the + cañon, opposed our way. A small pile of lone rocks + enabled the mule to go over all right, and she went on looking + for every spear of grass, and smelling eagerly for water, but + all our efforts were not enough to get the horses along + another foot. It was getting nearly night and every minute + without water seemed an age. We had to leave the horses and go + on. We had deemed them indispensable to us, or rather to the + extrication of the women and children, and yet the hope came + to us that the oxen might help some of them out as a last + resort. We were sure the wagons must be abandoned, and such a + thing as women riding on the backs of oxen we had never seen, + still it occurred to us as not impossible and although leaving + the horses here was like deciding to abandon all for the + feeble ones, we saw we must do it, and the new hope arose to + sustain us for farther effort. We removed the saddles and + placed them on a rock, and after a few moments hesitation, + moments in which were crowded torrents of wild ideas, and + desperate thoughts, that were enough to drive reason from its + throne, we left the poor animals to their fate and moved + along. Just as we were passing out of sight the poor creatures + neighed pitifully after us, and one who has never heard the + last despairing, pleading neigh of a horse left to die can + form no idea of its almost human appeal. We both burst into + tears, but it was no use, to try to save them we must run the + danger of sacrificing ourselves, and the little party we were + trying so hard to save.<br> + </p> + <p>We found the little mule stopped by a still higher + precipice or perpendicular rise of fully ten feet. Our hearts + sank within us and we said that we should return to our + friends as we went away, with our knapsacks on our backs, and + the hope grew very small. The little mule was nipping some + stray blades of grass and as we came in sight she looked + around to us and then up the steep rocks before her with such + a knowing, intelligent look of confidence, that it gave us new + courage. It was a strange wild place. The north wall of the + cañon leaned far over the channel, overhanging + considerably, while the south wall sloped back about the same, + making the wall nearly parallel, and like a huge crevice + descending into the mountain from above in a sloping + direction.<br> + </p> + <p>We decided to try to get the confident little mule over + this obstruction. Gathering all the loose rocks we could we + piled them up against the south wall, beginning some distance + below, putting up all those in the bed of the stream and + throwing down others from narrow shelves above we built a sort + of inclined plane along the walls gradually rising till we + were nearly as high as the crest of the fall. Here was a + narrow shelf scarcely four inches wide and a space of from + twelve to fifteen feet to cross to reach the level of the + crest. It was all I could do to cross this space, and there + was no foundation to enable us to widen it so as to make a + path for an animal. It was forlorn hope but we made the most + of it. We unpacked the mule and getting all our ropes + together, made a leading line of it. Then we loosened and + threw down all the projecting points of rocks we could above + the narrow shelf, and every piece that was likely to come + loose in the shelf itself. We fastened the leading line to her + and with one above and one below we thought we could help her + to keep her balance, and if she did not make a misstep on that + narrow way she might get over safely. Without a moments + hesitation the brave animal tried the pass. Carefully and + steadily she went along, selecting a place before putting down + a foot, and when she came to the narrow ledge leaned gently on + the rope, never making a sudden start or jump, but cautiously + as a cat moved slowly along. There was now no turning back for + her. She must cross this narrow place over which I had to + creep on hands and knees, or be dashed down fifty feet to a + certain death. When the worst place was reached she stopped + and hesitated, looking back as well as she could. I was ahead + with the rope, and I called encouragingly to her and talked to + her a little. Rogers wanted to get all ready and he said, + "holler" at her as loud as he could and frighten her + across, but I thought the best way to talk to her gently and + let her move steadily.<br> + </p> + <p>I tell you, friends, it was a trying moment. It seemed to + be weighed down with all the trails and hardships of many + months. It seemed to be the time when helpless women and + innocent children hung on the trembling balance between life + and death. Our own lives we could save by going back, and + sometimes it seemed as if we would perhaps save ourselves the + additional sorrow of finding them all dead to do so at once. I + was so nearly in despair that I could not help bursting in + tears, and I was not ashamed of the weakness. Finally Rogers + said, "Come Lewis" and I gently pulled the rope, + calling the little animal, to make a trial. She smelled all + around and looked over every inch of the strong ledge, then + took one careful step after another over the dangerous place. + Looking back I saw Rogers with a very large stone in his hand, + ready to "holler" and perhaps kill the poor beast if + she stopped. But she crept along trusting to the rope to + balance, till she was half way across, then another step or + two, when calculating the distance closely she made a spring + and landed on a smooth bit of sloping rock below, that led up + to the highest crest of the precipice, and safely climbed to + the top, safe and sound above the falls. The mule had no shoes + and it was wonderful how her little hoofs clung to the smooth + rock. We felt relieved. We would push on and carry food to the + people; we would get them through some way; there could be no + more hopeless moment than the one just past, and we would save + them all.<br> + </p> + <p>It was the work of a little while to transfer the load up + the precipice, and pack the mule again, when we proceeded. + Around behind some rocks only a little distance beyond this + place we found a small willow bush and enough good water for a + camp. This was a strange cañon. The sun never shown + down to the bottom in the fearful place where the little mule + climbed up, and the rocks had a peculiar yellow color. In + getting our provisions up the precipice, Rogers went below and + fastened the rope while I pulled them up. Rogers wished many + times we had the horses up safely where the mule was, but a + dog could hardly cross the narrow path and there was no hope. + Poor brutes, they had been faithful servants, and we felt + sorrowful enough at their terrible fate.<br> + </p> + <p>We had walked two days without water, and we were + wonderfully refreshed as we found it here. The way up this + cañon was very rough and the bed full of sharp broken + rocks in loose pieces which cut through the bottoms of our + moccasins and left us with bare feet upon the acute points and + edges. I took off one of my buckskin leggins, and gave it to + Rogers, and with the other one for myself we fixed the + moccasins with them as well as we could, which enabled us to + go ahead, but I think if our feet had been shod with steel + those sharp rocks would have cut through.<br> + </p> + <p>Starting early we made the summit about noon, and from here + we could see the place where we found a water hole and camped + the first night after we left the wagons. Down the steep + cañon we turned, the same one in which we had turned + back with the wagons, and over the sharp broken pieces of + volcanic rock that formed our only footing we hobbled along + with sore and tender feet. We had to watch for the smoothest + place for every step, and then moved only with the greatest + difficulty. The Indians could have caught us easily if they + had been around for we must keep our eyes on the ground + constantly and stop if we looked up and around. But we at last + got down and camped on some spot where we had set out + twenty-five days before to seek the settlements. Here was the + same little water hole in the sand plain, and the same strong + sulphur water which we had to drink the day we left. The mule + was turned loose dragging the same piece of rawhide she had + attached to her when we purchased her, and she ranged and + searched faithfully for food finding little except the very + scattering bunches of sage brush. She was industrious and + walked around rapidly picking here and there, but at dark came + into camp and lay down close to us to sleep.<br> + </p> + <p>There was no sign that any one had been here during our + absence, and if the people had gone to hunt a way out, they + must either have followed the Jayhawker's trail or some other + one. We were much afraid that they might have fallen victims + to the Indians. Remaining in camp so long it was quite likely + they had been discovered by them and it was quite likely they + had been murdered for the sake of the oxen and camp equipage. + It might be that we should find the hostiles waiting for us + when we reached the appointed camping place, and it was small + show for two against a party. Our mule and her load would be a + great capture for them. We talked a great deal and said a + great many things at that camp fire for we knew we were in + great danger, and we had many doubts about the safety of our + people, that would soon be decided, and whether for joy or + sorrow we could not tell.<br> + </p> + <p>From this place, as we walked along, we had a wagon road to + follow, in soft sand, but not a sign of a human footstep could + we see, as we marched toward this, the camp of the last hope. + We had the greatest fears the people had given up our return + and started out for themselves and that we should follow on, + only to find them dead or dying. My pen fails me as I try to + tell the feelings and thoughts of this trying hour. I can + never hope to do so, but if the reader can place himself in my + place, his imagination cannot form a picture that shall go + beyond reality.<br> + </p> + <p>We were some seven or eight miles along the road when I + stopped to fix my moccasin while Rogers went slowly along. The + little mule went on ahead of both of us, searching all around + for little bunches of dry grass, but always came back to the + trail again and gave us no trouble. When I had started up + again I saw Rogers ahead leaning on his gun and waiting for + me, apparently looking at something on the ground. As I came + near enough to speak I asked what he had found and he + said—"Here is Capt. Culverwell, dead." He did + not look much like a dead man. He lay upon his back with arms + extended wide, and his little canteen, made of two powder + flasks, lying by his side. This looked indeed as if some of + our saddest forebodings were coming true. How many more bodies + should we find? Or should we find the camp deserted, and never + find a trace of the former occupants.<br> + </p> + <p>We marched toward camp like two Indians, silent and alert, + looking out for dead bodies and live Indians, for really we + more expected to find the camp devastated by those rascals + than to find that it still contained our friends. To the east + we could plainly see what seemed to be a large salt lake with + a bed that looked as if of the finest, whitest sand, but + really a wonder of salt crystal. We put the dreary steps + steadily one forward of another, the little mule the only + unconcerned one of the party, ever looking for an odd blade of + grass, dried in the hot dry wind, but yet retaining + nourishment, which she preferred.<br> + </p> + <p>About noon we came in sight of the wagons, still a long way + off, but in the clear air we could make them out, and tell + what they were, without being able to see anything more. Half + a mile was the distance between us and the camp before we + could see very plainly, as they were in a little depression. + We could see the covers had been taken off, and this was an + ominous sort of circumstance to us, for we feared the + depredations of the Indians in retaliation for the capture of + their squashes. They had shot our oxen before we left and they + have slain them this time and the people too.<br> + </p> + <p>We surely left seven wagons. Now we could see only four and + nowhere the sign of an ox. They must have gone ahead with a + small train, and left these four standing, after dismantling + them.<br> + </p> + <p>No signs of life were anywhere about, and the thought of + our hard struggles between life and death to go out and + return, with the fruitless results that now seemed apparent + was almost more than human heart could bear. When should we + know their fate? When should we find their remains, and how + learn of their sad history if we ourselves should live to get + back again to settlements and life? If ever two men were + troubled, Rogers and I surely passed through the furnace.<br> + </p> + <p>We kept as low and as much out of sight as possible, + trusting very much to the little mule that was ahead, for we + felt sure she would detect danger in the air sooner than we, + and we watched her closely to see how she acted. She slowly + walked along looking out for food, and we followed a little + way behind, but still no decisive sign to settle the awful + suspense in which we lived and suffered. We became more and + more convinced that they had taken the trail of the + Jayhawkers, and we had missed them on the road, or they had + perished before reaching the place where we turned from their + trail.<br> + </p> + <p>One hundred yards now to the wagons and still no sign of + life, no positive sign of death, though we looked carefully + for both. We fear that perhaps there are Indians in ambush, + and with nervous irregular breathing we counsel what to do. + Finally Rogers suggested that he had two charges in his shot + gun and I seven in the Coll's rifle, and that I fire one of + mine and await results before we ventured any nearer, and if + there are any of the red devils there we can kill some of them + before they get to us. And now both closely watching the + wagons I fired the shot. Still as death and not a move for a + moment, and then as if by magic a man came out from under a + wagon and stood up looking all around, for he did not see us. + Then he threw up his arms high over his head and + shouted—"The boys have come. The boys have + come!" Then other bare heads appeared, and Mr. Bennett + and wife and Mr. Arcane came toward us as fast as ever they + could. The great suspense was over and our hearts were first + in our mouths, and then the blood all went away and left us + almost fainting as we stood and tried to step. Some were safe + perhaps all of those nearest us, and the dark shadow of death + that had hovered over us, and cast what seemed a pall upon + every thought and action, was lifted and fell away a heavy + oppression gone. Bennett and Arcane caught us in their arms + and embraced us with all their strength, and Mrs. Bennett when + she came fell down on her knees and clung to me like a maniac + in the great emotion that came to her, and not a word was + spoken. If they had been strong enough they would have carried + us to camp upon their shoulders. As it was they stopped two or + three times, and turned as if to speak, but there was too much + feeling for words, convulsive weeping would choke the + voice.<br> + </p> + <p>All were a little calmer soon, and Bennett soon found voice + to say:—"I know you have found some place, for you + have a mule," and Mrs. Bennett through her tears, looked + staringly at us as she could hardly believe our coming back + was a reality, and then exclaimed:—"Good boys! O, + you have saved us all! God bless you forever! Such boys should + never die!" It was some time before they could talk + without weeping. Hope almost died within them, and now when + the first bright ray came it almost turned reason from its + throne. A brighter happier look came to them than we had seen, + and then they plied us with questions the first of which + was:—"Where were you?"<br> + </p> + <p>We told them it must be 250 miles yet to any part of + California where we could live. Then came the + question;—"Can we take our wagons?" "You + will have to walk," was our answer, for no wagons could + go over that unbroken road that we had traveled. As rapidly + and carefully as we could we told them of our journey, and the + long distance between the water holes; that we had lost no + time and yet had been twenty six days on the road; that for a + long distance the country was about as dry and desolate as the + region we had crossed east of this camp. We told them of the + scarcity of grass, and all the reasons that had kept us so + long away from them.<br> + </p> + <p>We inquired after the others whom we had left in camp when + we went away, and we were told all they knew about them. + Hardly were we gone before they began to talk about the state + of affairs which existed. They said that as they had nothing + to live on but their oxen it would be certain death to wait + here and eat them up, and that it would be much better to move + on a little every day and get nearer and nearer the goal + before the food failed. Bennett told them they would know + surely about the way when the boys returned, and knowing the + road would know how to manage and what to expect and work for, + and could get out successfully. But the general opinion of all + but Mr. Bennett and Mr. Arcane and their families was, as + expressed by one of them:—"If those boys ever get + out of this cussed hole, they are d----d fools if they ever + come back to help anybody."<br> + </p> + <p>Some did not stay more than a week after we were gone, but + took their oxen and blankets and started on. They could not be + content to stay idly in camp with nothing to occupy their + minds or bodies. They could see that an ox when killed would + feed them only a few days, and that they could not live long + on them, and it stood them in hand to get nearer the western + shore as the less distance the more hope while the meat + lasted. Bennett implored them to stay as he was sure we would + come back, and if the most of them deserted him he would be + exposed to the danger of the Indians, with no hope of a + successful resistance against them.<br> + </p> + <p>But the most seemed to think that to stay was to die, and + it would be better to die trying to escape than to set idly + down to perish. These men seemed to think their first duty was + to save themselves, and if fortunate, help others afterward, + so they packed their oxen and left in separate parties, the + last some two weeks before. They said that Capt. Culverwell + went with the last party. I afterward learned that he could + not keep up with them and turned to go back to the wagons + again, and perished, stretched out upon the sand as we saw + him, dying all alone, with no one to transmit his last words + to family or friends. Not a morsel to eat, and the little + canteen by his side empty. A sad and lonely death indeed!<br> + </p> + <p>There was no end to the questions about the road we had to + answer, for this was uppermost on their minds, and we tried to + tell them and show them how we must get along on our return. + We told them of the great snow mountains we had seen all to + the north of our road, and how deep the snow appeared to be, + and how far west it extended. We told them of the black and + desolate ranges and buttes to the south, and of the great dry + plains in the same direction. We told them of the Jayhawkers + trail; of Fish's dead body; of the salt lake and slippery + alkali water to which we walked, only to turn away in + disappointment; of the little sheets of ice which saved our + lives; of Doty's camp and what we knew of those gone before; + of the discouraged ones who gave us their names to send back + to friends; of the hawk and crow diet; of my lameness; of the + final coming out into a beautiful valley, in the midst of fat + cattle and green meadows, and the trouble to get the help + arranged on account of not knowing the language to tell the + people what we needed. They were deeply impressed that my + lameness had been a blessing in disguise, or we would have + gone on to the coast and consumed more time than we did in + walking slowly to favor the cripple knee. Our sad adventures + and loss of the horses in returning was sorrowfully told and + we spoke of the provisions we had been able to bring on the + little mule which had clambered over the rocks like a cat; + that we had a little flour and beans, and some good dried meat + with fat on it which we hoped would help to eke out the poorer + fare and get them through at last. They were so full of + compliments that we really began to think we had been brought + into the world on purpose to assist some one, and the one who + could forecast all things had directed us, and all our ways, + so that we should save those people and bring them to a better + part of God's footstool, where plenty might be enjoyed, and + the sorrows of the desert forgotten. It was midnight before we + could get them all satisfied with their knowledge of our + experience.</p> + <br> + <div align="center"> + <p><img src="images/leaving_dv.png" alt="Leaving Death + Valley--The Manly Party on Foot After Leaving Their + Wagons" width="100%" border="0"><a + name="Anchor-24201"></a></p> + <p><b>LEAVING DEATH VALLEY—THE MANLY PARTY ON FOOT + AFTER LEAVING THEIR WAGONS.</b></p> + </div> + <br> + <p>It was quite a treat to us to sleep again between good + blankets, arranged by a woman's hand, and it was much better + resting than the curled up, cramped position we had slept in + while away, with only the poor protection of the half blanket + for both of us, in nights that were pretty chilly.<br> + </p> + <p>We had plenty of water here, and there being no fear of the + mule going astray we turned her loose. As the party had seen + no Indians during our absence we did not concern ourselves + much about them. At breakfast we cautioned them about eating + too much bread, remembering, our own experience in that + way.<br> + </p> + <p>They said they had about given up our coming back a week + before, and had set about getting ready to try to move on + themselves. Bennett said he was satisfied that they never + could have got through alone after what we had told them of + the route and its dangers. He said he knew it now that not one + of them would have lived if they had undertaken the journey + alone without knowledge of the way.<br> + </p> + <p>They had taken off the covers of the wagons to make them + into houses for the oxen, so they could be used as pack + animals. The strong cloth had been cut into narrow strips and + well made into breast straps and breeching, for the cattle + were so poor and their hide so loose it was almost impossible + to keep anything on their backs. They had emptied the feathers + out of the beds to get the cloth to use, and had tried to do + everything that seemed best to do to get along without wagons. + The oxen came up for water, and the mule with them. They + looked better than when we left, but were still poor. They had + rested for some time and might feel able to go along willingly + for a few days at least. I was handy with the needle, and + helped them to complete the harness for the oxen, while + Bennett and John went to the lake to get a supply of salt to + take along, a most necessary article with our fresh meat. I + looked around a little at our surroundings, and could see the + snow still drifting over the peak of the snowy mountain as we + had seen it farther east, where we were ourselves under the + burning sun. This was now pretty near February first, or + midwinter. The eastern side of this great mountain was too + steep to be ascended, and no sign of a tree could be seen on + the whole eastern slope. The range of mountains on the east + side of this narrow valley were nearly all the volcanic, + barren in the extreme, and the roughest of all the mountains + we had ever seen. I had now looked pretty thoroughly, and + found it to be pretty nearly a hundred miles long, and this + was the only camp I had seen where water could be had.<br> + </p> + <p>When Mrs. Bennet was ready to show me what to do on the + cloth harness, we took a seat under the wagon, the only shady + place and began work. The great mountain, I have spoken of as + the snow mountain has since been known as Telescope Peak, + reported to be 11,000 feet high. It is in the range running + north and south and has no other peak so high. Mrs. Bennett + questioned me closely about the trip, and particularly if I + had left anything out which I did not want her to know. She + said she saw her chance to ride was very slim, and she spoke + particularly of the children, and that it was impossible for + them to walk. She said little Martha had been very sick since + we had been gone, and that for many days they had expected her + to die. They had no medicine to relieve her and the best they + could do was to select the best of the ox meat, and make a + little soup of it and feed her, they had watched her carefully + for many days and nights, expecting they would have to part + with her any time and bury her little body in the sands. + Sometimes it seemed as if her breath would stop, but they had + never failed in their attentions, and were at last rewarded by + seeing her improve slowly, and even to relish a little food, + so that if no relapse set in they had hopes to bring her + through. They brought the little one and showed her to me, and + she seemed so different from what she was when we went away. + Then she could run about camp climb out and in the wagons, and + move about so spry that she reminded one of a quail. Now she + was strangely misshapen. Her limbs had lost all the flesh and + seemed nothing but skin and bones, while her body had grown + corpulent and distended, and her face had a starved pinched + and suffering look, with no healthy color in it.<br> + </p> + <p>She told me of their sufferings while we were gone, and + said she often dreamed she saw us suffering fearfully for + water, and lack of food and could only picture to herself as + their own fate, that they must leave the children by the trail + side, dead, and one by one drop out themselves in the same + way. She said she dreamed often of her old home where bread + was plenty, and then to awake to find her husband and children + starving was a severe trial indeed, and the contrast terrible. + She was anxious to get me to express an opinion as to whether + I thought we could get the oxen down the falls where we had so + much trouble.<br> + </p> + <p>I talked to her as encouragingly as I could, but she did + not cheer up much and sobbed and wept over her work most all + the time. It was not possible to encourage her much, the + outlook seemed so dark. Mrs. Arcane sat under another wagon + and said nothing, but she probably heard all we had to say, + and did not look as if her hopes were any brighter. Bennett + and Rogers soon returned with a supply of salt and said the + whole shore of the lake was a winrow of it, that could be + shoveled up in enormous quantities.<br> + </p> + <p>We now in a counsel of the whole, talked over the matter, + and the way which seemed most promising. If we went by the + Jayhawkers trail, there was a week of solid travel to get over + the range and back south again as far as a point directly + opposite our camp, and this had taken us only three days to + come over as we had come. The only obstacle in the way was the + falls, and when we explained that there was some sand at the + bottom of them, Bennett said he thought we could get them over + without killing them, and that, as we knew exactly where the + water was, this was the best trail to take. Arcane was quite + of the same opinion, the saving of a week of hard and tiresome + travel being in each case the deciding reason. They then + explained to me what they had decided on doing if we had not + come back. They had selected two oxen for the women to ride + one to carry water and one to carry the four children. There + were no saddles but blankets enough to make a soft seat, and + they proposed to put a band or belt around the animals for + them to hold on by, and the blankets would be retained in + place by breast and breeching straps which we had made. They + had found out that it was very difficult to keep a load of any + kind upon an ox, and had devised all this harness to meet the + trouble.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett had one old bridle ox called Old Crump, which had + been selected to carry the children, because he was slow and + steady. "How in the world do you expect it to keep the + children on?"—said I. "Well"— said + Bennett, with a sort of comical air, about the first relief + from the sad line of thought that had possessed us + all—"We have taken two strong hickory shirts, + turned the sleeves inside, sewed up the necks, then sewed the + two shirts together by the tail, and when these are placed on + the ox they will make two pockets for the youngest children, + and we think the two others will be able to cling to his back + with the help of a band around the body of the ox to which + they can cling to, with their hands." Now if Old Crump + went steady and did not kick up and scatter things, he thought + this plan would operate first rate. Now as to the mule they + proposed as we knew how to pack the animal, that we should use + her to pack our provisions so they would go safe.<br> + </p> + <p>From a piece of hide yet remaining John and I made + ourselves some new moccasins, and were all ready to try the + trip over our old trail for now the third time, and the last, + we hoped.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Arcane had taken our advice, and in + cooking had not put too much of the flour or beans into the + soup for the children and they had gotten along nicely, and + even began to smile a little with satisfaction after a full + meal. They got along better than John and I did when we got + hold of the first nutritions after our arrival on the other + side.<br> + </p> + <p>We must leave everything here we can get along without. No + clothing except that on our backs. Only a camp kettle in which + to make soup, a tin cup for each one, and some knives and + spoons which each happen to have. Each one had some sort of a + canteen for water, which we must fill up at every opportunity, + and we decided to carry a shovel along, so we might bury the + body of Capt. Culverwell, and shovel up a pile of sand at the + falls to enable us to get the oxen over. Every ox had a cloth + halter on his head, so he might be led, or tied up at night + when we had a dry camp, and they would most assuredly wander + off if not secured. Old Crump was chosen to lead the train, + and Rogers was to lead him. We had made an extra halter for + this old fellow, and quite a long strip of bed ticking sewed + into a strap to lead him by.<br> + </p> + <p>This packing business was a new idea, and a hard matter to + get anything firmly fixed on their backs.<br> + </p> + <p>We had made shoulder straps, hip straps, breast straps and + breeching as the correct idea for a harness. The only way we + could fasten the band around the animals was for one to get on + each side and pull it as tight as possible then tie a knot, as + we had no buckles or ring in our harness.<br> + </p> + <p>The loads of the oxen consisted of blankets and bedding and + a small, light tent of their sheeting about four by six feet + in size. We rose early and worked hard till about the middle + of the forenoon getting all things ready. They had been in a + state of masterly inactivity so long in this one camp that + they were anxious to leave it now forever. Only in progress + was there hope, and this was our last and only chance. We must + succeed or perish. We loaded the animals from the wagons, and + some of the oxen seemed quite afraid at this new way of + carrying loads. Old Crump was pretty steady, and so was the + one with the two water kegs one on each side but the other + oxen did not seem to think they needed any blankets on these + warm days.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Arcane was from a city, and had fondly conveyed thus + far some articles of finery, of considerable value and much + prized. She could not be persuaded to leave them here to deck + the red man's wife, and have her go flirting over the + mountains with, and as they had little weight she concluded + she would wear them and this perhaps would preserve them. So + she got out her best hat and trimmed it up with extra ribbon + leaving some with quite long ends to stream out behind. Arcane + brought up his ox Old Brigham, for he had been purchased at + Salt Lake and named in honor of the great Mormon Saint.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Arcane also dressed her little boy Charlie up In his + best suit of clothes, for she thought they might as well wear + them out as to throw them away. She made one think of a fairy + in gay and flying apparel. In the same way all selected their + best and most serviceable garments, for it was not considered + prudent to carry any load, and poor clothes were good enough + to leave for Indians. We set it down as a principle that we + must save ourselves all we could, for it would be a close + contested struggle with us and death, at the very best, and we + wanted to get all the advantage for ourselves we could. As we + were making the preparations the women grew more hopeful, as + it seemed as if something was really going to be + accomplished.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett and Arcane were emphatic in their belief and + expressions that we would succeed, "I know it—Don't + you Sally?" said Bennett very cheerfully, but after all + Mrs. Bennett could not answer quite as positively, but said + "I hope so."—Mrs. Bennett's maiden name was + Sarah Dilley, which I mention here as I may otherwise forget + it afterward. She realized that hers was no easy place to + ride, that they would have hard fare at best, and that it must + be nearly or quite a month before they could reach a fertile + spot on which to place her feet. One could easily see that the + future looked quite a little dark to her, on account of her + children, as a mother naturally would.<br> + </p> + <p>High overhead was the sun, and very warm indeed on that day + in the fore part of February 1850, when the two children were + put on Old Crump to see if he would let them ride. The two + small children were placed in the pockets on each side, face + outward, and they could stand or sit as they should choose. + George and Melissa were placed on top and given hold of the + strap that was to steady them in their place. I now led up + Mrs. Bennett's ox and Mr. Bennett helped his wife to mount the + animal, on whose back as soft a seat as possible had been + constructed. Mrs. Arcane in her ribbons was now helped to her + seat on the back of Old Brigham and she carefully adjusted + herself to position, and arranged her dress and ornaments to + suit, then took hold of the strap that served to hold on by as + there were no bridles on these two.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers led the march with his ox; Bennett and I started the + others along, and Arcane followed with Old Crump and the + children. Bennett and Arcane took off their hats and bade the + old camp good bye. The whole procession moved, and we were + once more going toward our journey's end we hoped. The road + was sandy and soft, the grade practically level, and + everything went well for about four miles, when the pack on + one of the oxen near the lead got loose and and turned over to + one side, which he no sooner saw thus out of position, then he + tried to get away from it by moving sidewise. Not getting + clear of the objectionable load in this way he tried to kick + it off, and thus really got his foot in it, making matters + worse instead of better. Then he began a regular waltz and + bawled at the top of his voice in terror. Rogers tried to + catch him but his own animal was so frisky that he could not + hold him and do much else, and the spirit of fear soon began + to be communicated to the others and soon the whole train + seemed to be taken crazy.<br> + </p> + <p>They would jump up high and then come down, sticking their + fore feet as far as possible into the sand after which, with + elevated tails, and terrible plunges would kick and thrash and + run till the packs came off, when they stopped apparently + quite satisfied. Mrs. Bennett slipped off her ox as quick as + she could, grabbed her baby from the pocket on Old Crump, and + shouting to Melissa and George to jump, got her family into + safe position in pretty short order. Arcane took his Charley + from the other pocket and laid him on the ground, while he + devoted his own attention to the animals. Mrs. Arcane's ox + followed suit, and waltzed around in the sand, bawled at every + turn, fully as bad as any of the others, but Mrs. Arcane + proved to be a good rider, and hard to unseat, clinging + desperately to her strap as she was tossed up and down, and + whirled about at a rate enough to to make any one dizzy. Her + many fine ribbons flew out behind like the streamers from a + mast-head, and the many fancy fixin's she had donned fluttered + in the air in gayest mockery. Eventually she was thrown + however, but without the least injury to herself, but somewhat + disordered in raiment. When I saw Bennett he was standing half + bent over laughing in almost hysterical convulsion at the + entirely impromptu circus which had so suddenly performed an + act not on the program. Arcane was much pleased and laughed + heartily when he saw no one was hurt. We did not think the + cattle had so much life and so little sense as to waste their + energies so uselessly. The little mule stepped out one side + and looked on in amazement, with out disarranging any article + of her load.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Bennett, carrying her baby and walking around to keep + out of the way, got very much exhausted, and sat down on the + sand, her face as red as if the blood were about to burst + through the skin, and perspiring freely. We carried a blanket + and spread down for her while we gathered in the scattered + baggage. Then the oxen were got together again, and submitted + to being loaded up again as quietly as if nothing had + happened. Myself and the women had to mend the harness + considerably, and Arcane and his ox went back for some water, + while Rogers and Bennett took the shovel and went ahead about + a mile to cover up the body of Capt. Culverwell, for some of + the party feared the cattle might be terrified at seeing it. + All this took so much time that we had to make a camp of it + right here.<br> + </p> + <p>We put the camp kettle on two stones, built a fire, put in + some beans and dried meat cut very fine, which cooked till + Arcane came with more water, which was added, and thickened + with a little of the unbolted flour, making a pretty good and + nutritious soup which we all enjoyed. We had to secure the + animals, for there was neither grass nor water for them, and + we thought they might not be in so good spirits another + day.<br> + </p> + <p>We had little trouble in packing up again in the morning, + and concluded to take a nearer route to the summit, so as to + more quickly reach the water holes where Rogers and I camped + on our first trip over the country. This would be a hard rocky + road on its course leading up a small rocky cañon, hard + on the feet of the oxen, so they had to be constantly urged + on, as they seemed very tender footed. They showed no + disposition to go on a spree again and so far as keeping the + loads on, behaved very well indeed. The women did not attempt + to ride but followed on, close after Old Crump and the + children who required almost constant attention, for in their + cramped position they made many cries and complaints. To think + of it, two children cramped up in narrow pockets, in which + they could not turn around, jolted and pitched around over the + rough road, made them objects of great suffering to themselves + and anxiety and labor on the part of the mothers.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Bennett said she would carry her baby if she could, + but her own body was so heavy for her strength that she could + not do it. Bennett, Rogers and myself hurried the oxen all we + could, so that we could reach the water, and let Bennett go + back with some to meet the rest and refresh them for the end + of the day's march, and he could take poor little Martha from + the pocket and carry her in his arms, which would be a great + relief to her. Arcane also took his child when he met them, + throwing away his double barrel gun, saying:—"I + have no use for you."<br> + </p> + <p>When the women reached camp we had blankets already spread + down for them, on which they cast themselves, so tired as to + be nearly dead. They were so tired and discouraged they were + ready to die, for they felt they could not endure many days + like this.<br> + </p> + <p>We told them this was the first day and they were not used + to exercise therefore more easily tired than after they became + a little used to it. We told them not to be discouraged, for + we knew every water hole, and all the road over which we would + pilot them safely. They would not consent to try riding again, + after their circus experience, and Mrs. Arcane said her limbs + ached so much she did not think she could even go on the next + day. They had climbed over the rocks all day, and were lame + and sore, and truly thought they could not endure such another + day. The trail had been more like stairs than a road in its + steep ascent, and our camp was at a narrow pass in the range. + The sky was clear and cloudless, as it had been for so long + for thus far upon this route no rain had fallen, and only once + a little snow, that came to us like manna in the desert. For + many days we had been obliged to go without water both we and + our cattle, and over the route we had come we had not seen any + signs of a white man's presence older than our own. I have no + doubt we were the first to cross the valley in this location, + a visible sink hole in the desert.<br> + </p> + <p>The women did not recover sufficient energy to remove their + clothing, but slept as they were, and sat up and looked around + with uncombed hair in the morning, perfect pictures of + dejection. We let them rest as long as we could, for their + swollen eyes and stiffened joints told how sadly unprepared + they were to go forward at once. The sun came out early and + made it comfortable, while a cool and tonic breeze, came down + from the great snow mountain the very thing to brace them up + after a thorough rest.<br> + </p> + <p>The slope to the east was soon met by a high ridge and + between this and the main mountain was a gentle slope + scattered over with sage brush, and a few little stools of + bunch grass here and there between. This gave our oxen a + little food and by dipping out the water from the holes and + letting them fill up again we managed to get water for camp + use and to give the animals nearly all they wanted.<br> + </p> + <p>While waiting for the women Bennett and Arcane wanted to go + out and get a good view of the great snowy mountain I had told + them so much about. The best point of view was near our camp, + perhaps three or four hundred yards away, and I went with + them. This place where we now stood was lower than the + mountains either north or south, but were difficult to climb, + and gave a good view in almost every direction, and there, on + the back bone of the ridge we had a grand outlook, but some + parts of it brought back doleful recollections. They said they + had traveled in sight of that mountain for months and seen + many strange formations, but never one like this, as developed + from this point. It looked to be seventy-five miles to its + base, and to the north and west there was a succession of + snowy peaks that seemed to have no end. Bennett and Arcane + said they never before supposed America contained mountains so + grand with peaks that so nearly seemed to pierce the sky. + Nothing except a bird could ever cross such steep ranges as + that one.<br> + </p> + <p>West and south it seemed level, and low, dark and barren + buttes rose from the plain, but never high enough to carry + snow, even at this season of the year. I pointed out to them + the route we were to follow, noting the prominent points, and + it could be traced for fully one hundred and twenty-five miles + from the point on which we stood. This plain, with its barren + ranges and buttes is now known as the Mojave Desert. This part + of the view they seemed to study over, as if to fix every + point and water hole upon their memory. We turned to go to + camp, but no one looked back on the country we had come over + since we first made out the distant snow peak, now so near us, + on November 4th 1849. The only butte in this direction that + carried snow was the one where we captured the Indian and + where the squashes were found.<br> + </p> + <p>The range next east of us across the low valley was barren + to look upon as a naked, single rock. There were peaks of + various heights and colors, yellow, blue firery red and nearly + black. It looked as if it might sometime have been the center + of a mammoth furnace. I believe this range is known as the + Coffin's Mountains. It would be difficult to find earth enough + in the whole of it to cover a coffin.<br> + </p> + <p>Just as we were ready to leave and return to camp we took + off our hats, and then overlooking the scene of so much trial, + suffering and death spoke the thought uppermost + saying:—"<i>Good bye Death Valley!"</i> then + faced away and made our steps toward camp. Even after this in + speaking of this long and narrow valley over which we had + crossed into its nearly central part, and on the edge of which + the lone camp was made, for so many days, it was called Death + Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>Many accounts have been given to the world as to the origin + of the name and by whom it was thus designated but ours were + the first visible footsteps, and we the party which named it + the saddest and most dreadful name that came to us first from + its memories.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=116 alt="" src="images/ch_10.png" width=165 + border=0><br> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-1554"></a>CHAPTER XI.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Out of Death Valley we surely were. To Rogers and I, the + case seemed hopeful, for we had confidence in the road and + believed all would have power to weather difficulties, but the + poor women—it is hard to say what complaints and sorrows + were not theirs. They seemed to think they stood at death's + door, and would about as soon enter, as to take up a farther + march over the black, desolate mountains and dry plains before + them, which they considered only a dreary vestibule to the + dark door after all. They even had an idea that the road was + longer than we told them, and they never could live to march + so far over the sandy, rocky roads. The first day nearly + satisfied them that it was no use to try, Rogers and I counted + up the camps we ought to reach each day and in this way could + pretty near convince them of time that would be consumed in + the trip. We encouraged them in every way we could; told them + we had better get along a little every day and make ourselves + a little nearer the promised land, and the very exercise would + soon make them stronger and able to make a full day's + march.<br> + </p> + <p>John and I told them we felt in much better spirits now + than we did when we set out alone, and now that nothing but + the arrows of an Indian could stop us. We said to them. + "We are not going to leave you two ladies out here to die + for there is not a sign of a grave to put you in,—" + and it was a pretty tough place to think of making one. We + told them of the beautiful flowery hillsides over the other + side and begged them to go over there to die, as it would be + so much better and easier to perform the last sad rites there + instead of here on the top of the dismal mountain. It seemed + quite like a grim joke, but it produced a reaction that turned + the tide of thoughts and brought more courage. We only laid + out the march for this day as far as the falls and after a + little prepared to move. The cattle seemed to have quit their + foolishness, and they were loaded without trouble. The + children fitted into the pockets better than usual, and the + mothers with full canteens strapped across their shoulders + picked out soft places on which to place their poor blistered + feet at every step. They walked as if they were troubled with + corns on every toe and on their heels into the bargain, and + each foot was so badly affected, that they did not know on + which one to limp. But still they moved, and we were once more + on our way westward. They often stopped to rest, and Arcane + waited for them with Old Crump, while they breathed and + complained awhile and then passed on again.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + <img height="75%" alt="The Oxen Get Frisky." + src="images/frisky_oxen.png" border=0><a name="Anchor-43659"></a> + <h4><b>THE OXEN GET FRISKY</b></h4> + <br> + </div> + <p>The route was first along the foot of the high peak, over + bare rocks and we soon turned south somewhat so as to enter + the cañon leading down to the falls. The bottom of this + was thick with broken rock, and the oxen limped and picked out + soft places about as bad as the women did. A pair of moccasins + would not last long in such rocks and we hoped to get out of + them very soon. Rogers and I hurried along, assisting Arcane + and his party as much as we could, while Bennett staid behind + and assisted the women as much as possible, taking their arms, + and by this means they also reached camp an hour behind the + rest.<br> + </p> + <p>A kettle of hot steaming soup, and blankets all spread out + on which to rest, was the work Rogers and I had done to + prepare for them, and they sank down on the beds completely + exhausted. The children cried some but were soon pacified and + were contented to lie still. A good supper of hot soup made + them feel much better all around.<br> + </p> + <p>The first thing Bennett and Arcane did was to look round + and see the situation at the falls, and see if the obstacle + was enough to stop our progress, or if we must turn back and + look for a better way. They were in some doubt about it, but + concluded to try and get the animals over rather than to take + the time to seek another pass, which might take a week of + time. We men all went down to the foot of the fall, and threw + out all the large rocks, then piled up all the sand we could + scrape together with the shovel, till we had quite a pile of + material that would tend to break a fall. We arranged + everything possible for a forced passage in the morning, and + the animals found a few willows to browse and a few bunches of + grass here and there, which gave them a little food, while the + spring supplied them with enough water to keep them from + suffering with thirst.<br> + </p> + <p>Early in the morning we took our soup hastily and with + ropes lowered our luggage over the small precipice, then the + children, and finally all the ropes were combined to make a + single strong one about thirty feet long. They urged one of + the oxen up to the edge of the falls, put the rope around his + horns, and threw down the end to me, whom they had stationed + below. I was told to pull hard when he started so that he + might not light on his head and break his neck. We felt this + was a desperate undertaking, and we fully expected to lose + some of our animals, but our case was critical and we must + take some chances. Bennett stood on one side of the ox, and + Arcane on the other, while big Rogers was placed in the rear + to give a regular Tennessee boost when the word was given. + "Now for it," said Bennett, and as I braced out on + the rope those above gave a push and the ox came over, + sprawling, but landed safely, cut only a little by some + angular stones in the sand pile. "Good enough," said + some one and I threw the rope back for another ox. "We'll + get 'em all over safely" said Arcane, "if Lewis down + there, will keep them from getting their necks broken." + Lewis pulled hard every time, and not a neck was broken. The + sand pile was renewed every time and made as high and soft as + possible, and very soon all our animals were below the falls. + The little mule gave a jump when they pushed her and lighted + squarely on her feet all right. With the exception of one or + two slight cuts, which bled some, the oxen were all right and + we began loading them at once.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett and Arcane assisted their wives down along the + little narrow ledge which we used in getting up, keeping their + faces toward the rocky wall, and feeling carefully for every + footstep. Thus they worked along and landed safely by the time + we had the animals ready for a march. We had passed without + disaster, the obstacle we most feared, and started down the + rough cañon, hope revived, and we felt we should get + through. After winding around among the great boulders for a + little while we came to the two horses we had left behind, + both dead and near together. We pointed to the carcasses, and + told them those were the horses we brought for the women to + ride, and that is the way they were cheated out of their + passage. The bodies of the animals had not been touched by + bird or beast. The cañon was too deep and dark for + either wolves or buzzards to enter, and nothing alive had been + seen by us in the shape of wild game of any sort. Firearms + were useless here except for defence against Indians, and we + expected no real trouble from them.<br> + </p> + <p>From what we could see, it was my opinion that no general + rain ever fell in that region. There was some evidence that + water had at times flowed down them freely after cloud bursts, + or some sudden tempest, but the gravel was so little worn that + it gave no evidence of much of a stream.<br> + </p> + <p>We hurried on as rapidly as possible so as to get into the + Jayhawker's beaten trail which would be a little easier to + follow. When we reached the lowest part of the valley we had + to turn south to get around a little, slow running stream of + salt water, that moved north and emptied into a Salt Lake. No + source of the stream could be seen from this point, but when + we reached a point where we could cross, we had a smooth, hard + clay bed to march over. It seemed to have been, some day, a + bed of mortar, but now baked hard, and the hoofs of the oxen + dented into it no more than half an inch. On our left hand was + a perpendicular cliff, along which we traveled for quite a + little way. The range of mountains now before us to cross was + black, nothing but rocks, and extremely barren, having no + water in it that we knew of, so when we reached the summit we + camped, tied all our animals to rocks, where they lay down and + did not rise till morning. The women were so tired they were + over two hours late, and we had the fire built, the soup + cooked and the beds made. As we did not stop at noon all were + very hungry, and ate with a relish. The poor animals had to go + without either grass or water. When Old Crump and the party + came in the men were carrying the babies, and their wives were + clinging to their arms, scarcely able to stand. When they + reached the beds they fell at full length on them, saying + their feet and limbs ached like the tooth ache. It seemed to + be best for them to rest a little before eating. Mrs. Bennett + said that the only consolation was that the road was getting + shorter every day, but were it not for the children she would + sooner die than follow the trail any farther. Their soup was + carried to them in the bed, and they were covered up as they + lay, and slept till morning. This day's walk was the hardest + one yet, and probably the longest one of the whole journey, + but there was no other place where we could find a place large + enough to make a camp and free enough of rocks so that a bed + could be made.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers and I had the kettle boiling early, and put in the + last of the meat, and nearly all that was left of the flour. + At the next camp an ox must be killed. Just as it was fairly + light I went about 200 yards south where the dead body of Mr. + Fish lay, just as he died more than a month before. The body + had not been disturbed and looked quite natural. He was from + Oscaloosa, Iowa.<br> + </p> + <p>The folks arose very reluctantly this morning, and appeared + with swollen eyes and uncombed hair, for there was no means of + making a toilet, without a drop of water, except what we had + used in getting breakfast. We set the soup kettle near the + foot of the bed so the women could feed the children and + themselves. Now as we loaded the oxen, it was agreed that + Rogers and I should go ahead with all but Old Crump, and get + in camp as soon as possible, and they were to follow on as + best they could. There was a little water left in the canteens + of Bennett and Arcane, to be given only to the children, who + would cry when thirsty, the very thing to make them feel the + worst.<br> + </p> + <p>We were to kill an ox when we reached camp, and as each of + the men had an equal number on the start each was to furnish + one alternately and no disputing about whose were better or + stronger, in any emergency.<br> + </p> + <p>Our road now led down the western slope of the mountain, + and loose, hard, broken rocks were harder on the feet of our + animals than coming up, and our own moccasins were wearing + through. The cattle needed shoes as well as we. Any one who + has never tried it can imagine how hard it is to walk with + tender feet over broken rock. It was very slow getting along + at the best, and the oxen stumbled dreadfully in trying to + protect their sore feet. At the foot of the mountain we had + several miles of soft and sandy road. The sun shone very hot, + and with no water we suffered fearfully. A short way out in + the sandy valley we pass again the grave of Mr. Isham, where + he had been buried by his friends. He was from Rochester, N.Y. + He was a cheerful, pleasant man, and during the forepart of + the journey used his fiddle at the evening camps to increase + the merriment of his jolly companions. In those days we got no + rain, see no living animals of any kind except those of our + train, see not a bird nor insect, see nothing green except a + very stunted sage, and some dwarf bushes. We now know that the + winter of 1849-50 was one of the wettest ever seen in + California, but for some reason or other none of the wet + clouds ever came to this portion of the State to deposit the + most scattering drops of moisture.<br> + </p> + <p>Quite a long way from the expected camp the oxen snuffed + the moisture, and began to hurry towards it with increased + speed. A little while before it did not seem as if they had + ambition enough left to make a quick move, but as we + approached the water those which had no packs fairly trotted + in their haste to get a drink. This stream was a very small + one, seeping out from a great pile of rocks, and maintaining + itself till it reached the sands, where it disappeared + completely. A few tufts of grass grew along the banks, + otherwise everything surrounding was desolate in the + extreme.<br> + </p> + <p>As soon as we could get the harness off the oxen, we went + to look for our little buried sack of wheat, which we were + compelled to leave and hide on our way out. We had hidden it + so completely, that it took us quite a little while to strike + its bed but after scratching with our hands awhile, we hit the + spot, and found it untouched. Although the sand in which it + was buried seemed quite dry, yet the grain had absorbed so + much moisture from it, that the sack was nearly bursting. It + was emptied on a blanket, and proved to be still sound and + sweet.<br> + </p> + <p>Our first work now was to kill an ox and get some meat to + cook for those who were coming later. We got the kettle over + boiling with some of the wheat in it, for the beans were all + gone. We killed the ox saving the blood to cook. Cutting the + meat all off the bones, we had it drying over a fire as soon + as possible, except what we needed for this meal and the next. + Then we made a smooth place in the soft sand on which to + spread the blankets, the first good place we had found to + sleep since leaving Death Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>The next job was to make moccassins for ourselves and for + the oxen, for it was plain they could not go on another day + barefooted. We kept busy indeed, attending the fires under the + meat and under the kettle, besides our shoemaking, and were + getting along nicely about sundown, when Old Christian Crump + appeared in sight followed by the women and the rest of the + party. The women were just as tired as ever and dropped down + on the blankets the first thing. "How many such days as + this can we endure?"—they said. We had them count + the days gone by, and look around to see the roughest part of + the road was now behind them. They said that only five days + had passed, and that two thirds of the distance still remained + untraveled, and they knew they could never endure even another + five day's work like the last. We told them to be brave, and + be encouraged, for we had been over the road and knew what it + was, and that we felt sure of being able to do it nicely. They + were fed in bed as usual, and there they lay till morning. We + men went to making moccasins from the green hide, and when we + had cut out those for the men and women the balance of the + hide was used in preparing some also for the oxen, + particularly the worst ones, for if I remember correctly there + was not enough to go round.<br> + </p> + <p>The morning came, bright and pleasant, as all of them were, + and just warm enough for comfort in the part of the day. The + women were as usual, and their appearance would remind one + quite strongly of half-drowned hens which had not been long + out of trouble. Hair snarled, eyes red, nose swollen, and out + of fix generally. They did not sleep well so much fatigued, + for they said they lived over their hard days in dreams at + night, and when they would close their eyes and try to go to + sleep, the visions would seem to come to them half waking and + they could not rest.<br> + </p> + <p>There was now before us a particularly bad stretch of the + country as it would probably take us four or five days to get + over it, and there was only one water hole in the entire + distance. This one was quite salt, so much so that on our + return trip the horses refused to drink it, and the little + white one died next day. Only water for one day's camp could + be carried with us, and that was for ourselves alone and not + for the animals.<br> + </p> + <p>When the moccasins were finished in the morning we began to + get our cattle together when it was discovered that Old + Brigham was gone, and the general belief was that the Indians + had made a quiet raid on us and got away with the old fellow. + We circled around till we found his track and then Arcane + followed it while we made ready the others. Arcane came in + with the stray namesake of the polygamous saint about this + time shouting:—"I've got him—No + Indians." The ox had got into the wash ravine below camp + and passed out of sight behind, in a short time. He had been + as easily tracked as if he walked in snow. There was larger + sage brush in the wash than elsewhere, and no doubt Brigham + had thought this a good place to seek for some extra blades of + grass.<br> + </p> + <p>Immediately south of this camp now known as Providence + Springs, is the salt lake to which Rogers and I went on the + first trip and were so sadly disappointed in finding the water + unfit to use.<br> + </p> + <p>As soon as ready we started up the cañon, following + the trail made by the Jayhawkers who had proceeded us, and by + night had reached the summit, but passed beyond, a short + distance down the western slope, where we camped in a valley + that gave us good large sage brush for our fires, and quite a + range for the oxen without their getting out of sight. This + being at quite a high elevation we could see the foot as well + as the top, of the great snow mountain, and had a general good + view of the country.<br> + </p> + <p>This proved to be the easiest day's march we had + experienced, and the women complained less than on any other + night since our departure. Their path had been comparatively + smooth, and with the new moccasins their feet had been well + protected, they had come through pretty nicely. We told them + they looked better, and if they would only keep up good + courage they would succeed and come out all right to the land + where there was plenty of bread and water, and when safely + out, they might make good resolutions never to get in such a + trap again. Mrs. Bennett said such a trip could never be done + over again, and but for the fact that Rogers and I had been + over the road, and that she believed all we had said about it; + she never would have had the courage to come thus far. Now, + for the children's sake, she wished to live, and would put + forth any effort to come through all right.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day we had a long cañon to go down, and in + it passed the dead body of the beautiful white mare Rogers had + taken such a fancy to. The body had not decomposed, nor had it + been disturbed by any bird or beast. Below this point the bed + of the cañon was filled with great boulders, over which + it was very difficult to get the oxen along. Some of them had + lost their moccasins and had to suffer terribly over the + rocks.<br> + </p> + <p>Camp was made at the salt water hole, and our wheat and + meat boiled in it did not soften and get tender as it did in + fresh water. There was plenty of salt grass above; but the + oxen did not eat it any more than the horses did, and wandered + around cropping a bite of the bitter brush once in awhile, and + looking very sorry. This was near the place where Rogers and I + found the piece of ice which saved our lives. The women did + not seriously complain when we reached this camp, but little + Charley Arcane broke out with a bad looking rash all over his + body and as he cried most of the time it no doubt smarted and + pained him like a mild burn. Neither his mother nor any one + else could do anything for him to give him any relief. We had + no medicines, and if he or any one should die, all we could do + would be to roll the body in a blanket and cover it with a + light covering of sand.<br> + </p> + <p>From this camp to the next water holes at the base of the + great snow mountain, it was at least 30 miles, level as to + surface, and with a light ascending grade. The Jayhawkers had + made a well marked trail, and it it was quite good walking. + The next camp was a dry one, both for ourselves and the oxen, + nothing but dry brush for them, and a little dried meat for + ourselves, but for all this the women did not complain so very + much. They were getting use to the work and grew stronger with + the exercise. They had followed Old Crump and the children + every day with the canteens of water and a little dried meat + to give them if they cried too much with hunger, and Arcane + had led his ox day after day with a patience that was + remarkable, and there was no bad temper shown by any one. This + was the way to do, for if there were any differences, there + was no tribunal to settle them by.<br> + </p> + <p>In all this desert travel I did not hear any discontent and + serious complaint, except in one case, and that was at the + Jayhawker's camp, where they burned their wagons at the end of + the wagon road, in Death Valley. Some could not say words bad + enough to express their contempt, and laid all the trouble of + salt water to Lot's wife. Perhaps she was in a better position + to stand the cursing than any of the party present.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day we reached the water holes at the place where + Rogers and I stole up to camp fire in the evening, supposing + it to be Indians, but finding there Capt. Doty and his mess, a + part of the Jayhawker's band. By dipping carefully from these + holes they filled again, and thus, although there was no flow + from them we gradually secured what water we needed for the + camp, which was a small amount after so long a time without. + There was some low brush here called greasewood, which grew + about as high as currant bushes, and some distance up the + mountain the oxen could find some scattery bunch grass, which, + on the whole, made this camp a pretty good one. The women, + however, were pretty nearly exhausted, and little Charley + Arcane cried bitterly all day and almost all night. All began + to talk more and feel more hopeful of getting through. The + women began to say that every step brought them so much nearer + to the house we had told them about on the other side and + often said the work was not so very hard after all. Really it + was not so bad travelling as we had at first. We were now nine + days from the wagons. "Are we half way?" was the + question they began to ask. We had to answer them that more + than one half the hard days were over, if one half the + distance had not been traveled, and with the better walking + and getting hardened to the work, they would get over the last + half better than the first. One thing was a little hard. All + of our beans and flour had been used up, and now the wheat was + about gone also. We had cooked it, and it seemed best, trying + to build up our strength, where it was most needed for the + greatest trials, and now we thought they would be able to get + along on the meat. We had reached the base of the great snow + mountain. It seems strange with the mass of snow resting + above, and which must be continually thawing more or less, no + ravines or large streams of water were produced flowing down + this side. It seemed dry all around its base, which is is very + singular, with the snow so near.<br> + </p> + <p>We had now our barren cañon to go down, and right + here was the big trail coming down from the north, which we + took and followed. We said all these good things about the + road, and encouraged the people all we could to keep in good + spirits and keep moving. We told them we thought we knew how + to manage to get them safe over the road if they only fully + endeavored to do it. We were all quite young, and not in the + decline of life as were most of them who had perished by the + way. No reader can fully realize how much we had to say and do + to keep up courage, and it is to this more than anything else + that we did which kept up the lagging energies and inspired + the best exertion. I don't know but we painted some things a + little brighter than they were, and tried to hide some of the + most disheartening points of the prospects ahead, for we found + the mind had most to do with it after all. We have no doubt + that if we had not done all we could to keep up good courage, + the women would have pined away and died before reaching this + far. Whenever we stopped talking encouragingly, they seemed to + get melancholy and blue.<br> + </p> + <p>There was some pretty good management to be exercised + still. The oxen were gradually growing weaker, and we had to + kill the weakest one every time, for if the transportation of + our food failed, we should yet be open to the danger of + starvation. As it was, the meat on their frames was very + scarce, and we had to use the greatest economy to make it last + and waste nothing. We should now have to kill one of our oxen + every few days, as our other means of subsistence had been so + completely used up. The women contracted a strange dislike to + this region and said they never wanted to see any part of it + again.<br> + </p> + <p>As the sun showed its face over the great sea of mountains + away to the east of Death Valley, and it seemed to rise very + early for winter season we packed up and started west on the + big trail. Rogers and I took the oxen and mule and went on, + leaving the others to accompany Old Crump and his little + charges. Arcane had found it best to carry Charley on his + back, as it relieved the burning sensation, caused by the + eruption on his skin, which was aggravated by the close + quarters of the pockets. Thus leaving the pockets unbalanced, + Bennett had to carry his baby also. This made it harder for + them, but every one tried to be just as accommodating as they + could and each one would put himself to trouble to accommodate + or relieve others.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers and I made camp when we reached the proper place + which was some distance from the mountain, on a perfectly + level plain where there was no water, no grass, nothing but + sage brush would grow on the dry and worthless soil. We let + the oxen go and eat as much of this as they chose, which was + very little and only enough to keep them from absolute + starvation. The great trail had a branch near here that turned + north, and went up a ravine that would seem to reach the snow + in a little while. This was believed to be impassable at this + time of year. This route is known as Walker's Pass, leading + over a comparatively low ridge, and coming out the south fork + of the Kern River.<br> + </p> + <p>We made our camp here because it was as long a march as the + women could make, and, for a dry one, was as good a location + as we could find. The cool breeze came down from the snow to + the north of us, not so very many miles away, and after a + little it became uncomfortably cold. We gathered greasewood + bushes and piled them up to make a wind-break for our heads. + The oxen, even, would come and stand around the fire, seeming + greatly to enjoy the warm smoke, which came from burning the + greasewood brush, which by the way, burns about the best of + any green wood. When we were ready to lie down we tied the + animals to bunches of brush, and they lay contentedly till + morning.<br> + </p> + <p>To the north of us, a few miles away we could see some + standing, columns of rock, much reminding one of the great + stone chimney of the boiler house at Stanford Jr., University; + not quite so trim and regular in exterior appearance, but + something in that order. We reckon the only students in the + vicinity would be lizards.<br> + </p> + <p>When the women arrived in camp they were very tired, but + encouraged themselves that they were much nearer the promised + land than they were in the morning. Mrs. Bennett said she was + very careful never to take a step backward, and to make every + forward one count as much as possible. "That's a good + resolution, Sally," said Mr Bennett. "Stick to it + and we will come out by and bye."<br> + </p> + <p>From near this camp we have a low range of mountains to + cross, a sort of spur or offshoot of the great snow mountain + that reaches out twenty miles or more to the southeast, and + its extremity divides away into what seems from our point of + view a level plain. We had attained quite an elevation without + realizing it, so gradual had been the ascent, and our course + was now down a steep hillside and into a deep cañon. In + its very bottom we found a small stream of water only a few + yards long, and then it sank into the sands. Not a spear of + grass grew there, and if any had grown it had been eaten by + the cattle which had gone before. This was the same place, + where Rogers and I had overtaken the advance portion of the + Jayhawkers when we were on our outward trip in search of + relief, and where some of the older men were so discouraged + that they gave us their home addresses in Illinois so that we + could notify their friends of their precarious situation, and + if they were never otherwise heard from they could be pretty + sure they had perished from thirst and starvation when almost + at their journey's end.<br> + </p> + <p>The scenes of this camp on that occasion made so strong an + impression on my memory that I can never forget it. There were + poor dependent fellows without a morsel to eat except such + bits of poor meat as they could beg from those who were + fortunate enough to own oxen. Their tearful pleadings would + soften a heart of stone. We shared with some of them even when + we did not know the little store upon our backs would last us + through. Our oxen here had water to drink, but nothing more. + It might be a little more comfortable to drink and starve, + than both choke and starve, but these are no very pleasant + prospects in either one.<br> + </p> + <p>Both ourselves and the oxen were getting barefoot and our + feet very tender. The hill we had just come down was very + rough and rocky and our progress very slow, every step made in + a selected spot. We could not stop here to kill an ox and let + the remainder of them starve, but must push on to where the + living ones could get a little food. We fastened the oxen and + the mule to keep them from wandering, and slept as best we + could. The women and children looked worse than for some time, + and could not help complaining. One of the women held up her + foot and the sole was bare and blistered. She said they ached + like toothache. The women had left their combs in the wagons, + and their hair was getting seriously tangled. Their dresses + were getting worn off pretty nearly to their knees, and showed + the contact with the ground that sometimes could not be + avoided. They were in a sad condition so far as toilet and + raiment were concerned. Life was in the balance, however, and + instead of talking over sad things, we talked of the time when + we would reach the little babbling brook where Rogers and I + took such long draughts of clear, sweet water and the waiter + at our dinner gave us the choice of <i>Crow</i>, <i>Hawk</i> + or <i>Quail</i>, and where we took a little of all three.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + <a name="Anchor-8071"></a><img height="75%" alt="Pulling + the Oxen Down the Precipice." src="images/pulling_oxen.png" + border=0> + <h4>PULLING THE OXEN DOWN THE PRECIPICE.</h4> + <br> + </div> + <p>In the morning we were off again down the cañon, + limping some as we trod its coarse gravelly bed with our + tender feet and stiffened joints, but getting limbered up a + little after a bit, and enduring it pretty well. We set out to + try to reach the bunch of willows out on the level plain, + where the cattle could get some water and grass, but night + overtook us at the mouth of the cañon, and we were + forced to go into camp. This cañon is now called Red + Cañon. This was on an elevated plain, with a lake near + by, but as we had been so often deceived by going to the lake + for water, and finding them salt in every instance, or poison + on account of strong alkali, we did not take the trouble to go + and try this one.<br> + </p> + <p>Near us was some coarse grass and wet ground where we found + water enough for our moderate use, and the oxen, by + perseverance, could get something to eat and drink. After + supper we were out of meat and we would have to kill an ox to + get some food for breakfast. In the night a storm came on, + much to our surprise, for we had seen none since the night on + the mountain east of Death Valley more than two months before. + We tried to fix up a shelter to protect the children and + ourselves, but were not very successful. We tried to use our + guns for tent poles, but could not keep them in place. We laid + down as close as pigs in cold weather, and covered up as best + we could, but did not keep dry, and morning found us wet to + the skin, cold and shivering. We gathered big sage brush for a + fire in the morning, and the tracks of our nearly bare feet + could be plainly seen in the snow which lay like a blanket + awhile over the ground, about two inches deep. Some lay in bed + and we warmed blankets before the fire and put over them to + keep them comfortable till the sun should rise and warm the + air. We selected an ox and brought him up before the fire + where I shot him, and soon there was meat roasting over the + fire and blood cooking in the camp kettle. We had nothing to + season the blood pudding with but salt, and it was not very + good, but answered to sustain life. We ate a hasty meal, then + packed our animals and started for the willow patch about four + miles away. The snow was about gone.<br> + </p> + <p>I staid in camp to keep it till they could get through to + the willows and some one to come back with the mule to carry + forward the portion of meat that could not be taken at first. + We intended to dry it at the willows, and then we could carry + it along as daily food over the wide plain we had yet to + cross. Having carried the meat forward, we made a rack of + willows and dried it over the fire, making up a lot of + moccasins for the barefooted ones while we waited. We were + over most of the rocky road, we calculated that our shoemaking + would last us through. This was a very pleasant camp. The + tired ones were taking a rest. No one needed it more than our + women and children, who were tired nearly out. They were in + much better condition to endure their daily hardships than + when they started out, and a little rest would make them feel + quite fresh again. They understood that this was almost on the + western edge of this desert country and this gave them good + hope and courage.<br> + </p> + <p>This wonderful spot in the level plain, with a spring of + pure water making an oasis of green willows and grass has been + previously spoken of as:—"A spring of good water, + and a little willow patch in a level desert away from any + hill." In all our wanderings we had never seen the like + before. No mountaineer would ever think of looking here for + water, much less ever dream of finding a lone spring away out + in the desert, several miles from the mountain's base. Where + the range we just came through leaves the mother mountain + stands a peak, seemingly alone, and built up of many colored + rocks, in belts, and the whole looks as if tipped with + steel.<br> + </p> + <p>Arcane's boy Charley still suffered from his bogus measles + or whatever else his disorder might be, and Bennett's little + Martha grew more quiet and improved considerably in health, + though still unable to walk, and still abdominally corpulent. + The other two children George and Melissa seemed to bear up + well and loved to get off and walk in places where the trail + was smooth and level. Bennett, Arcane and Old Crump usually + traveled with the same party as the women, and as each of them + had a small canteen to carry water, they could attend to the + wants of the children and keep them from worrying and getting + sick from fretfulness. They often carried the two younger ones + on their backs to relieve and rest them from their cramped + position on the ox.<br> + </p> + <p>Arcane used to say he expected the boys—meaning + Rogers and I—would try to surprise the party by letting + them get very near the house before they knew how near they + were. "Be patient Mr. Arcane," said we, "we can + tell you just how many camps there must be before we reach it, + and we won't fool you or surprise you in any way." + "Well," said he. "I was almost in hopes you + would, for I like to be disappointed in that way." + "What do you think the folks will say when we tell them + that our little mule packed most of the meat of an ox four + miles from one camp to another?" "What will they say + when we tell them that the oxen were so poor that there was no + marrow in the great thigh bones?" Instead of marrow there + was a thick dark liquid something like molasses in + consistency, but streaked with different colors which made it + look very unwholesome. Arcane said the whole story was so + incredible, that he never should fight anyone, even if he + should tell him he lied when he related the strange sad truth. + He said he had no doubt many a one would doubt their story, it + was so much beyond what people had ever seen or heard of + before, and they might be accused of very strong romancing in + the matter.<br> + </p> + <p>They all felt more like talking; for we were thus far safe + and sound, and though there was a desperate struggle of + seventy-five miles or more, from this place to the next water + in the foot-hills. Possibly the snow storms had left a little + in some of the pools, but we made no calculations on any. The + promised land we had so steadily been approaching, and now + comparatively so near, gave us great hope, which was better + than food and drink to give us strength.<br> + </p> + <p>There were surely two camps between this and the little + pond John and I found, among the Cabbage trees, and not more + than six by ten feet square. As we worked away at our + foot-wear we talked more in an hour than we had in a whole day + before. We were slowly leaving Death Valley behind us with its + sad memories and sufferings. We were leaving behind the dead + bodies of several who had traveled with us and been just as + strong and hopeful as we. We had left behind us all in our + possession in that terrible spot, and simply with our lives we + hoped to escape, and trust to Providence and humanity on the + other side. Arcane now admitted that they could not have got + along half as well, if we had not gone ahead and looked out + the land. It was such a gain to know exactly where the next + water hole was, so it could be steered for and struggled + toward. He even went so far as to say they would have no + chance alone, and that as he now saw the road, he was sure + they have would all perished even before reaching as far as + this. We had strong hopes of the morrow, when we would be all + rested, all were shod, and would make every footstep count in + our western progress.<br> + </p> + <p>It seems quite a strange occurrence that the only two + storms we had had since we turned westward on this route, Nov. + 4th, were snow storms, and that both had come while we were + asleep, so that all our days were cloudless. Sometimes the sun + was uncomfortably warm even in the heart of the winter. One + would have naturally expected that the great rainfall all over + the California coast in the winter of 1849-50, and the deep + snows that came in the Sierra Nevada mountains the same + winter, would have extended southerly the few hundred miles + that separated the two places. Modern science has shown the + tracks of the storms and partially explains the reasons for + this dry and barren nature of this region. When rains do come + they are so out of the regular order, that they are called + cloud-bursts or waterspouts, and the washes in the + cañons and their mouths show how great has been the + volume of water that sometimes rushed down the slope. If + clouds at a warm or moderate temperature float against these + snow peaks all the water they contain is suddenly + precipitated. The country is an arid one and unless wealth + should appear in the shape of mines, the country can never be + inhabited. We considered ourselves very fortunate in finding + the little pools and holes of water which kept us alive. It + was not very good drinking water, but to us thirsty folks it + was a blessing and we never passed it by on account of any + little stagnant bitter taste. Salt water we could not drink of + course, though we sometimes used it to cook with.<br> + </p> + <p>We were as well prepared next morning as possible for a + move, and the long walk before us, the last one between us and + the fertile land. They all talked of how delighted they would + be to see once more a running brook, green grass and trees, + and such signs of life as they had seen and been used to in + the good land they had left behind. The women said they could + endure the march of four or five days, if when all over, they + could sleep off the terrible fatigue and for once drink all + the pure sweet water they could desire. No more forced + marches. No more grey road, stretching out its dusty miles as + far as the eye could reach. The ladies thought the oxen would + be as happy as themselves, and the little mule, the most + patient one of the whole train deserved a life of ease for her + valuable services. This little black, one-eyed lady wandered + here and there at will seeking for grass, but never going + astray or getting far enough from the track to alarm us in the + least. She seldom drank much water, was always ready, never + got foot-sore, and seemed made expressly for such a life and + for such a desert.<br> + </p> + <p>A good kettleful of soup for breakfast, dried meat fixed in + packages, kegs and canteens filled with water, and we were + ready for an advance.<br> + </p> + <p>There is one less ox to lead, and very little load for + those we have, still the load is all such poor weak fellows + ought to bear. Old Crump was not thus favored by a gradually + lightened load. He bore the same four children every day, + faithfully, carefully, with never a stumble nor fall, as + though fully aware of the precious nature of his burden.<br> + </p> + <p>In this new march John and I took the oxen and pushed on as + usual, leaving the families to follow on, at a slower pace, + the trail we made. The trail was slightly inclined. The bushes + stunted at the best, getting smaller as we proceeded, and the + horse bones, new and ancient are now thickly scattered along + the way. The soil is different from that we have had. We can + see the trail, winding gently here and there, swept clean by + the wind, and the surface is hard and good; but when the mule + gets the least bit off of it she sinks six inches deep into + the soft sand, and the labor of walking is immense. I stepped + out to examine the peculiar soil, and found it finer than + superfine flour. It was evident that a strong wind would lift + it in vast clouds which might even darken the sky, but we were + fortunate in this respect, for during all the time we were on + this peculiar soil, there was no wind at all, and we escaped a + sand-storm, a sort of storm as peculiar to this region as are + blizzards to some of the states of the great west.<br> + </p> + <p>Our first night's camp was out on the barren waterless + plain, now known as the Mojave Desert. There were no shrubs + large enough to make a fire of, and nothing to tie our cattle + to, so we fastened all our animals together to keep them from + scattering and getting lost. We ate a little dry meat and + drank sparingly of the water, for our scanty stock was to last + us another day, when we might reach prospective water holes. + Starting early, John and I took all but Old Crump and the + other travelers, and hurried on to try and find the water + holes as early as possible. We, as well as the oxen were very + dry, for we left all the water we had with the party, for the + children, for they cannot endure the thirst as the older + people can. We reached the camping place before night. Quite a + time before we reached it, the cattle seemed to scent the + water and quickened their pace, so we were confident it had + not dried up. We got ahead of the oxen and kept there until we + reached the little pond and then guarded it to keep them from + wading into it, in their eagerness to reach some drink. They + all satisfied their thirst, and then we removed the harness, + built a fire of the dead cabbage trees which we found round + about, laid down the beds and arranged them neatly, and had + all nicely done before the rear guard came up, in charge of + Captain Crump. The party was eager for water and all secured + it. It was rain water and no doubt did not quench thirst as + readily as water from some living spring or brook. There was + evidence that there had been a recent shower or snow to fill + this depression up for our benefit. The Jayhawkers had passed + not more than a half mile north of this spot, but no sign + appeared that they had found it, and it was left to sustain + the lives of the women and children.<br> + </p> + <p>It often occurs to me that many may read incredulously when + I speak of our party eating the entire flesh of an ox in four + or five days. To such I will say that one cannot form an idea + how poor an ox will get when nearly starved so long. Months + had passed since they had eaten a stomachful of good + nutritious food. The animals walked slowly with heads down + nearly tripping themselves up with their long, swinging legs. + The skin loosely covered the bones, but all the flesh and + muscles had shrunk down to the smallest space. The meat was + tough and stringy as basswood bark, and tasted strongly of + bitter sage brush the cattle had eaten at almost every camp. + At a dry camp the oxen would lie down and grate their teeth, + but they had no cud to chew. It looked almost merciless to + shoot one down for food, but there was no alternative. We + killed our poor brute servants to save ourselves. Our cattle + found a few bunches out among the trees at this camp and + looked some better in the morning. They had secured plenty of + water and some grass.<br> + </p> + <p>Young Charlie Arcane seemed to grow worse rather than + better. His whole body was red as fire, and he screamed with + the pain and torment of the severe itching. Nothing could be + done to relieve him, and if his strength lasted till we could + get better air, water and food he might recover, but his + chances were very poor.<br> + </p> + <p>Not much rest at this camp for in the morning we aimed to + start early and reach the water in the foothills. We thought + we could do it if we started early, walked rapidly and took no + resting spell at noon. Such a poor soil as this we were + anxious to get away from, and walk once more on a soil that + would grow something besides stunted sage brush. From all + appearances the Jayhawkers were here in about the same + predicament Rogers and I were when we lost the trail. By their + tracks we could see they had scattered wide and there was no + road left for us to follow, and they had evidently tried to + follow our former tracks. Having no trail to follow we passed + on as best we could and came to a wide piece of land on which + were growing a great many cabbage trees. The soil was of the + finest dust with no grit in it, and not long before a light + shower had fallen, making it very soft and hard to get along + in with the moccasins. The women had to stop to rest + frequently, so our progress was very slow. Rogers and I had + feet about as hard as those of the oxen, so we removed our + moccasins and went barefoot, finding we could get along much + easier in that way, but the others had such tender feet they + could not endure the rough contact with the brush and mud. + Only a few miles had been made before the women were so + completely tired out that we had to stop and eat our little + bit of dried meat and wait till morning. The little mule now + carried all our stock of food, and the precious burden + lightened every day. This delay was not expected, but we had + to endure it and bear it patiently, for there was a limit to + strength of the feeble ones of our party. We had therefore to + make another barren camp. Relief seemed so near at hand we + kept good courage and talked freely of the happy ending which + would soon come. If we had any way to set a good table we + would feast and be merry like the prodigal son, but at any + rate we shall be safe if we can reach the fertile shore.<br> + </p> + <p>When the sun went down we tied the mule and oxen to cabbage + trees, and shortly after dusk lay down ourselves, for we had + enjoyed a good fire made of the trunks of cabbage trees, the + first really comfortable one in a long time. The air was + cooler here, for we were on higher ground, and there was some + snow on the range of mountains before us, which sent these + cool breezes down to us, a change of climate quite + pleasing.<br> + </p> + <p>For breakfast in the morning we had only dried meat roasted + before the fire, without water, and when we started each one + put a piece in his or her pocket to chew on during the day as + we walked along. As we went ahead the ground grew dryer and + the walking much improved. The morning overhead was perfectly + lovely, as away east, across the desert the sun early showed + his face to us. Not a cloud anywhere, not even over the tops + of the high peaks where great white masses sometimes cluster + but dissolve as soon as they float away, and there was not + wind enough to be perceptible. We remarked the same lack of + animal life which we had noticed on our first passage over + this section, seeing not a rabbit, bird, or living thing we + could use for food. Bennett had the same load in his gun he + put there when we left the wagons, and all the powder I had + burned was that used in killing the oxen we had slain whenever + it became necessary to provide for our barren kitchen.<br> + </p> + <p>As we approached the low foot-hills the trail became better + travelled and better to walk in, for the Jayhawkers who had + scattered, every one for himself apparently, in crossing the + plain, seemed here to have drawn together and their path was + quite a beaten one. We saw from this that they followed the + tracks made by Rogers and myself as we made our first trip + westward in search of bread. Quite a little before the sun + went out of sight in the west we reached our camping place in + the lower hills at the eastern slope of a range we must soon + cross. Here was some standing water in several large holes, + that proved enough for our oxen, and they found some large + sage brush and small bushes round about, on which they browsed + and among which they found a few bunches of grass. Lying about + were some old skulls of cattle which had sometime been killed, + or died. These were the first signs of the sort we had seen + along this route. They might have been killed by Indians who + doubtless used this trail.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day in crossing the range before us, we reached + the edge of the snow, which the sun had softened, and we dare + not attempt to cross. Early in the morning, when it was frozen + hard the cattle could travel it very well. The snow belt was + five or six miles wide, and the snow two or three feet deep. + This was a very good camping place except that we had to melt + snow for all our water, but this being coarse and icy it was + not a great job as we found enough dry juniper trees and twigs + to make a very good fire. Here we also had to kill another ox. + This one in its turn was Arcane's, and left him only two, and + Bennett three, but we think that if we have no accident we + shall get them along with us till we can get other food, as + they have very light loads to pack. When the ox is killed and + the meat prepared the mule has, for a time, a larger load than + all the oxen have, but seems content and nips a bite of food + whenever it can see a chance anywhere along the road, giving + us no more trouble than a dog. And by the way, I think I have + not mentioned our faithful camp dog, a worthy member of our + party who stood watch always and gave us a sure alarm if + anything unusual happened anywhere about. He was perhaps only + one of a hundred that tried to cross the plains and had to be + abandoned when they reached the upper Platte, where the alkali + dust made their feet so sore they could not travel, and as + they could not be hauled on wagons they were left behind. But + this dog Cuff did not propose to be left behind to starve, and + crippled along after us, we doing all we could for him, and + proved as tough as the best of us. Bennett and I had trained + him as a hunting dog in the East, and he was very knowing and + handy in every particular.<br> + </p> + <p>We were out of this camp at daylight. Very little rest for + some of us, but we must make the best of the cool morning + while the snow is hard, and so move on as soon as we can see + the way. As it gets lighter and the sun comes up red and hot + out of the desert we have a grand view of the great spread of + the country to south and of the great snow mountain to the + north and east, the peak standing over the place where we left + our wagons nineteen days before, on the edge of Death Valley. + The glare of the snow on the sun makes us nearly blind, but we + hurry on to try to cross it before it becomes so soft as to + slump under our feet. It is two or three feet in the deepest + places, and probably has been three times as deep when freshly + fallen, but it is now solid and icy. Our rawhide moccasins + protect our feet from cold, and both we and the animals got + along fairly well, the oxen breaking through occasionally as + the snow softened up, but generally walking on the top as we + did ourselves. The snow field reached much farther down the + western slope than we had hoped, much farther than on the + eastern side. Before we got out of it, we saw the track of + some animal which had crossed our route, but as it had been + made some days before and now could be seen only as some holes + in the surface, we could not determine what sort of an animal + it was.<br> + </p> + <p>A mile or two down the hill we were at last out of the + snow, and a little farther on we came to the little babbling + brook Rogers and I had so long painted in the most refreshing + colors to the tired women, with water, wood and grass on every + hand, the three greatest blessings of a camper's life. Here + was where Rogers and I had cooked and eaten our meat of crow, + quail and hawk, pretty hard food, but then, the blessed + water!<br> + </p> + <p>There it danced and jumped over the rocks singing the + merriest song one ever heard, as it said—Drink, drink ye + thirsty ones your fill—the happiest sweetest music to + the poor starved, thirsty souls, wasted down almost to haggard + skeletons. O! if some poet of wildest imagination could only + place himself in the position of those poor tired travelers to + whom water in thick muddy pools had been a blessing, who had + eagerly drank the fluid even when so salt and bitter us to be + repulsive, and now to see the clear, pure liquid, distilled + from the crystal snow, abundant, free, filled with life and + health—and write it in words—the song of that + joyous brook and set it to the music that it made as it echoed + in gentle waves from the rocks and lofty walls, and with the + gentle accompaniment of rustling trees—a soft singing + hush, telling of rest, and peace, and happiness.<br> + </p> + <p>New life seemed to come to the dear women. "O! What a + beautiful stream!" say they, and they dip in a tin cup + and drink, then watch in dreaming admiration the water as it + goes hurrying down; then dip and drink again, and again watch + the jolly rollicking brook as if it were the most entertaining + thing in the whole wide earth. "Why can't such a stream + as that run out of the great Snow Mountain in the dry Death + Valley?" say they—"so we could get water on + the way."<br> + </p> + <p>The men have felt as glad as any of them, but have gathered + wood and made a fire, and now a camp kettle of cut up meat is + boiling for our supper. It was not yet night, but we must camp + in so beautiful a place as this, and though the food was poor, + we were better off than we had been before.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett proposed that I take the mule and go back to where + we saw the track of the animal in the snow and follow it in + hope that we might get some game for we had an idea it might + be an elk or bear or some large game, good to kill and give us + better meat: So I saddled the mule and took the trail back + till I came to the track, then followed it as best I could, + for it was very dull and gave me no idea what it was. I traced + out of the snow and then in a blind way through bushes as high + as the mule's back—Chaparral we called it + now—among which I made my way with difficulty. I could + now see that the track was made by an ox or cow—perhaps + an elk—I could not tell for sure it was so faint. This + chaparral covered a large piece of table land, and I made my + way through it, following the track for a mile or two, till I + came to the top of a steep hill sloping down into a deep + cañon and a creek, on the bank of which grew sycamore + and alder trees, with large willows. I stopped here some + minutes to see if I could see or hear the movement of of + anything. Across the creek I could see a small piece of + perhaps half an acre of natural meadow, and in it some small + bunches of sycamore trees. After a little I discovered some + sort of a horned animal there, and I reckoned this was good + enough game for me to try and capture, so led the mule out to + one side and down the hill near the creek, then tied her, and + crept along the bank, about four feet high, toward the little + meadow. When about right, as I thought, I climbed up behind a + bunch of sycamores, and when I slowly and cautiously raised up + I was within fifty yards of a cow or steer of some sort which + I could dimly see. I put a ball square in its forehead and it + fell without a struggle. I loaded again quick as possible, and + there saw two other smaller cattle stepping very high as + though terrified, but not aware of the nature or location of + the danger. I gave a low whistle and one of them looked toward + me long enough for me to put a ball in it. The third one was + now behind a clump of sycamores, and I soon saw its face + through a little opening not more than three inches wide. I + made a shot, and wounded it, and then rushed up and gave it a + fatal one.<br> + </p> + <p>I examined my game and found the first one was a poor old + cow, but the others were yearlings, one of them very fat and + nice, and I soon had the hind quarters skinned out, and all + the fat I could find, which made a big load for the mule. It + was now almost dark, and the next problem was to get back to + camp again. The brushy hills would be terrible to cross with a + load of meat, and by the way the ground lay I concluded our + camp was on this same creek farther down.<br> + </p> + <p>The only way that seemed at all feasible was to follow the + course of the stream if possible, rather than return the + course over which I had come. There were so many bushes and + trees along the bank that I had to take to the bed and follow + in the water, and as it was rocky and rough, and so dark I + could not see well how to step, I stumbled into holes and + pools up to my waist, wet as a rat. Coming to a small open + place I decided I had better camp for the night and not + attempt further progress in the darkness, and the decision was + hastened by dark clouds, which began to gather and a few + sprinkles of rain began to come. There was a good patch of + grass for the mule, but all was uncomfortable for me, with the + prospect for a rainy night, but as wood was plenty I decided + to make a fire and take the chances. I looked for matches and + scratched one. No go—they were damp, and scratch as + careful and quickly as I could, there was no answering spark + or flame, and darkness reigned supreme. A camp without a fire + in this wet place was not to be thought of, so I concluded I + might as well be slowly working my way down along the stream, + through thick brush and cold water, as to sit here in the cold + and wait.<br> + </p> + <p>So the little mule and I started on, wading the creek in + thick darkness, getting only the most dim reflected light from + the sky through now and then an opening in the trees. I did + not know then how easy it was for a grizzly to capture myself, + the mule and meat and have quite a variety for supper. But the + grizzly stayed at home and we followed on through brambles and + hard brush, through which it was almost impossible to force + one's way. As it turned out, I was not in the track of the + storm and did not suffer much from it. Soon the cañon + grew wider, and I could make out on the right hand a piece of + table land covered with brush that seemed easier to get + through than the creek bed.<br> + </p> + <p>The hill up to the table land was very steep, but not more + than fifty yards high, and when the mule tried to get up she + got along very well till near the top, when she slipped in the + wet earth and never stopped till she reached the bottom and + lay down. She was helped up to her feet again and we tried it + in another place, I holding her from slipping when she stopped + to rest, and at last we reached the top. The mule started on, + seeming to follow a trail, but I could not see whether there + was a trail or not, so thick was the darkness, but there was + evidently something of the kind, for the brush was two or + three feet high and very thick.<br> + </p> + <p>After proceeding some distance the mule stopped and did not + seem to wish to go any farther. I was pretty sure there was + something in front of her that blocked the way, and so worked + my way through the brush and carefully past her. I could + partly see and partly hear something just ahead, and in a + moment found it was our good faithful Cuff, and no frightful + spook at all. The good fellow had discovered our approach and + came out to meet us, and I am sure the mule was as glad as I + was to see him. He crawled through the brush and smelled at + the mule's load and then went forward in the trail, which we + followed. It was a long time after midnight when we reached + camp. There was a good fire burning, but all were asleep till + I led the mule up to the fire and called out—"Wake + Up," when they were most of them on their feet in a + minute without stopping to dress, for all had slept a long + time without taking off their clothes.<br> + </p> + <p>John took charge of the mule and unloaded it, telling me to + get into his warm bed. I took off my wet clothes and told him + to dry them, and then got between the dry, warm blankets in + greatest comfort. Daylight came very quickly, it seemed to me, + and before I finally rose, the sun had been up some hours + before me. Before I fell asleep I could hear the women say, as + they cut off the pieces of meat to roast—"See the + fat! Only see how nice it is!" Quickly roasted on the + coals they ate the delicate morsels with a relish and, most of + all, praised the sweet fat. "We like to have it all + fat," said they, showing how their system craved the + nourishment the poor starved beef could not give. No one went + to bed after I came, but all sat and roasted meat and ate till + they were satisfied.<br> + </p> + <p>This sporting trip was quite different from deer hunting in + Wisconsin, and nothing like looking for game in Death Valley + where nothing lived. It was the hardest night's work that ever + came to me in many a day, and not the wild sport I generally + looked for when on the chase. I felt pretty well when I got + up, and a chunk of my last night's prize which had been + toasted for me was eaten with a relish, for it was the best of + meat and I, of course, had a first class appetite. I had to + tell them my last hunting story, and was much praised as a + lucky boy.<br> + </p> + <p>We would not be compelled to kill any more of our poor oxen + in order to live. So far we had killed six of them, and there + were five left. Our present situation was much appreciated, + compared with that of a few days ago when we were crawling + slowly over the desert, hungry, sore-footed and dry, when to + lie was far easier than to take steps forward. We felt like + rejoicing at our deliverance and there was no mourning now for + us. The surrounding hills and higher mountains seemed more + beautiful to us. They were covered with green trees and brush, + not a desert place in sight. The clear little singing brook + ran merrily on its way, the happiest, brightest stream in all + my memory. Wild birds came near us without fear, and seemed + very friendly. All was calm, and the bright sunshine exactly + warm enough so that no one could complain of heat or cold.<br> + </p> + <p>When ready to move it was announced that I had lost my + saddle blanket in my adventure, so they substituted another + one and I took the back track to the place where the mule + slipped down the bank, and there I found it. I soon overtook + them again just as they were going to camp on Mrs. Bennett's + account, as she had been suddenly taken sick with severe pain + and vomiting, something as Rogers and I had been after eating + our first California corn meal. The rich, fat meat was too + strong for her weak stomach.<br> + </p> + <p>Arcane all along had an idea that Rogers and I meant to + surprise them by leading them to believe the house we had + visited was quite a distance off, and then to so manage it + that it should appear upon their sight suddenly. We assured + them it would take two or more camps before we could get + there, and if Mrs. Bennett did not soon recover, even more + than that. Our camp here was under a great live oak, the + ground deep covered with dry leaves, and near by a beautiful + meadow where our cattle and mule ate, drank and rested, the + oxen chewing their cud with such an air of comfort as had not + come to them since leaving their far-off eastern pastures. + They seemed as much pleased as any one. They would lie down + and rest and eat at the same time in perfectly enjoyable + laziness.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we all rested and washed such clothes as we could do + without long enough to dry, and washed our faces and hands + over and over again to remove the dirt which had been burned + and sweated in so completely as not to come off readily. We + sat on the bank of the brook with our feet dangling in the + water, a most refreshing bath, and they too began to look + clean again. We often saw tracks of the grizzly bear about, + but in our ignorance had no fear of them, for we did not know + they were a dangerous animal. An owl came and hooted in the + night, but that was the only challenge any wild beast or bird + gave to our peaceful and restful camp. We were out of the + dreadful sands and shadows of Death Valley, its exhausting + phantoms, its salty columns, bitter lakes and wild, dreary + sunken desolation. If the waves of the sea could flow in and + cover its barren nakedness, as we now know they might if a few + sandy barriers were swept away, it would be indeed, a + blessing, for in it there is naught of good, comfort or + satisfaction, but ever in the minds of those who braved its + heat and sands, a thought of a horrid Charnel house, a corner + of the earth so dreary that it requires an exercise of + strongest faith to believe that the great Creator ever smiled + upon it as a portion of his work and pronounced it "Very + good." We had crossed the great North American Continent, + from a land of plenty, over great barren hills and plains, to + another mild and beautiful region, where, though still in + winter months, we were basking in the warmth and luxuriance of + early summer. We thought not of the gold we had come to win. + We were dead almost, and now we lived. We were parched with + thirst, and now the brightest of crystal streams invited us to + stoop and drink. We were starved so that we had looked at each + other with maniac thoughts, and now we placed in our mouth the + very fat of the land. We had seen our cattle almost perishing; + seen them grow gaunt and tottering; seen them slowly plod + along with hanging heads and only the supremacy of human will + over animal instinct had kept them from lying down never to + rise again. Now they were in pastures of sweet grass, chewing + the cud of content and satisfaction. Life which had been a + burden grew sweet to us, and though it may be that our words + of praise to Him, whose will was to deliver us out of the jaws + of death, were not set nor formal, yet His all-seeing eye saw + the truth in our hearts, and saw there the fullest expression + of our gratitude and thankfulness. Who shall say the thanks + that arose were less acceptable, because not given on bended + knees before gilded altars?<br> + </p> + <p>Though across the desert and evidently in the long promised + land our troubles and trials were not through by any means, + but evidently we were out of danger. Our lives seemed to be + secure, and we were soon to meet with settlers who would no + doubt extend to us the hand of human sympathy. Many long miles + yet remained between us and the rivers in whose sands were + hidden the tiny grains of gold we came to seek.<br> + </p> + <p>The rest in the lovely camp had answered to cause Mrs. + Bennett to feel quite well again by the next morning, and we + made ready to proceed. We had the trail of the Jayhawkers to + follow, so the vines, brambles and tangles which had perplexed + Rogers and myself in our first passage were now somewhat + broken down, and we could get along very well without further + clearing of the road until the hills came down so close on + both sides that there was no room except in the very bed of + the stream. There was no other way, so we waded among after + the oxen as best we could. Sometimes the women fell down, for + a rawhide moccasin soaked soft in water was not a very + comfortable or convenient shoe, however it might be adapted to + hot, dry sands. The creek was shaded and the water quite cool. + The trail, such as it was, crossed the creek often and + generally was nothing else than the stream itself. The + constant wading, and wet, cold clothing caused the women to + give out soon and we selected the first dry suitable place + which offered food for the oxen, as a place to camp.<br> + </p> + <p>Wood was plenty and dry, so a good fire was soon burning, + and the poor women, wet to the waist and even higher, were + standing before it, turning round and round to get warm and + dry. Someone remarked that they resembled geese hanging before + the fire to roast, as they slowly revolved, and it was all + owing to their fatigue that the suggester did not receive + merited punishment then and there at their hands. As they got + a little dry and comfortable they remarked that even an excess + of water like this was better than the desert where there was + none at all, and as to their looks, there were no society + people about to point their fingers at them, and when they + reached a settled country they hoped to have a chance to + change their clothes, and get two dresses apiece, and that + these would be long enough to hide their knees which these + poor tatters quite failed to do. One remarked that she was + sure she had been down in the brook a dozen times and that she + did not consider cold water baths so frequently repeated were + good for the health.<br> + </p> + <p>Young Charley Arcane had been getting better for some days. + No medicine had been given him, and it was no doubt the change + of air and water that had begun to effect a cure. Arcane had a + hard time of it to keep the brush from pulling George and + Melissa off of Old Crump into the water. It was indeed one of + the hardest day's work of the whole journey, but no one was + low spirited, and all felt very well. The camping place was in + a deep cañon, surrounded by thick brush, so that no + wind came in to chill us. Everybody was cook and nobody was + boss. Not a cent of money among us, nor any chance to use any + if we had possessed it. We had nice, sweet, fat meat, cooked + rare or well done as each one preferred, and no complaints + about the waiters. The conditions were so favorable, compared + with the terrible Death Valley and its surroundings that every + one remarked about it, and no one felt in the least like + finding fault with the little inconveniences we were forced to + put up with. It might cure an inveterate fault-finder to take + a course of training in the desert.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day we did not wade half as much, and after a few + hours of travel we suddenly emerged from the brush into a + creek bottom which was much wider, with not a tree to obstruct + our way. The soil was sandy and covered more or less with sage + brush, and the stream which had been strong and deep enough to + make us very wet now sank entirely out of sight in the sandy + bottom. The hills were thinly timbered on the left side but + quite brushy on the right, and we could see the track of + cattle in the sand. No signs of other animals, but some small + birds came near, and meadow larks whistled their tune, quite + familiar to us, but still sounding slightly different from the + song of the same bird in the East. High in the air could be + seen a large sailing hawk or buzzard.<br> + </p> + <p>We stopped to rest at noon and noticed that the water ran a + little in the creek bed; but, by the time we were ready to + start we found none with which to fill our canteens. No doubt + this water was poured into the cañon somewhere near the + place where we killed the three cattle, and we had got out of + it before the flood came down. It was astonishing to see how + the thirsty sand drank up the quite abundant flow.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day we came down to the point of hill that nearly + crossed the valley, and we crossed the low ridge rather than + make a longer trip to get around by way of the valley. As we + reached the summit there appeared before us as beautiful a + rural picture as one ever looked upon. A large green meadow, + of a thousand acres, more or less; its southwest side bounded + by low mountains, at the base of which oak trees were plenty, + but no brush or undergrowth. It was like a grand old park, + such as we read of in English tales. All over the meadow + cattle of all sorts and sizes grazed, the "Ring-streaked + and speckled" of old Jacob's breed being very prominent. + Some lazily cropped the grass; some still more lazily reclined + and chewed their cud; while frisky calves exercised their + muscles in swift races and then secured their dinner from + anxious mothers. We camped at once and took the loads from all + the animals that they might feed in comfort on the sweet grass + that lay before them.<br> + </p> + <p>We tarried here perhaps two hours, till the cattle stopped + eating, and amply enjoyed the scene. Never again would any one + of the party go back over that dreary desert, they said, and + everyone wondered why all places could not be as green and + beautiful as this one. I cannot half tell how we felt and + acted, nor what we said in our delight over this picture of + plenty. The strong contrasts created strong impressions, and + the tongues so long silent in our dry and dreary trouble were + loosened to say everything the heart inspired. Think as much + as you can; you cannot think it all.<br> + </p> + <p>We felt much better after our rest, and the oxen seemed + stronger and better able, as well as more willing to carry + their loads, so we soon prepared to move on down the valley, + toward the house we had spoken of as the goal we were to + reach. It was now the 7th day of March 1850, and this date, as + well as the 4th day of November 1849 will always remain an + important one in memory. On the last named day we left the + trail to take the unfortunate cut-off, and for four long + months we had wandered and struggled in terrible hardship. + Every point of that terrible journey is indelibly fixed upon + my memory and though seventy-three years of age on April 6th + 1893 I can locate every camp, and if strong enough could + follow that weary trail from Death Valley to Los Angeles with + unerring accuracy. The brushy cañon we have just + described is now occupied by the Southern Pacific Railroad, + and the steep and narrow ridge pierced by a tunnel, through + which the trains pass. The beautiful meadow we so much admired + has now upon its border a railroad station, Newhall, and at + the proper season some portion of it is covered with thousands + of trays of golden apricots, grown in the luxuriant orchards + just beyond the hills toward the coast, and here drying in the + bright summer sun. The cattle in the parti-colored coats are + gone, but one who knows the ground can see our picture.<br> + </p> + <p>Loaded up again we start down the beautiful grassy valley, + the women each with a staff in hand, and everything is new and + strange to us. Rogers and I know that we will soon meet people + who are strangers to us; who speak a strange language of which + we know nothing, and how we, without a dollar, are to proceed + to get our food and things we need, are questions we cannot + answer nor devise any easy way to overcome. The mines are yet + five hundred miles away, and we know not of any work for us to + do nearer. Our lives have been given back to us, and now comes + the problem of how to sustain them manfully and independently + as soon as possible. If worse comes to worst we can walk to + San Francisco, probably kill enough game on the way and + possibly reach the gold mines at last, but the way was not + clear. We must trust much to luck and fortune and the ever + faithful Providence which rarely fails those who truly try to + help themselves.<br> + </p> + <p>We began to think some very independent thoughts. We had a + mule to carry our camp kettle and meat. Our cattle were now + beginning to improve and would soon get fat; these could carry + our blankets and odd loads, while Old Crump the christian + could still carry the children; Bennett and I knew how to + hunt, and had good rifles; so we could still proceed, and we + determined that, come what may, <i>we will be + victorious</i>.<br> + </p> + <p>These were some of the plans we talked over at our camps + and resting places, and as we walked along. If we could get + the two families fixed in some way so they could do without + Rogers and I, we could strike for the mines quite rapidly and + no doubt soon get ourselves on good footing. We were younger + than the rest and could endure more hardship. We decide to + remain together till we get to Los Angeles, and then see what + is best.<br> + </p> + <p>We reached our camping place at the foot of the hill, about + a hundred yards from the house we have so long striven to + reach. Here we unloaded in the shade of a large willow tree, + and scarcely had we removed the harness from the oxen when the + good lady of the house and her little child came down to see + us. She stood for a moment and looked around her and at the + two small children on the blankets, and we could hear her + murmur <i>mucha pobre</i> (very poor.) She could see our + ragged clothes and dirty faces and everything told her of our + extreme destitution. After seeing our oxen and mule which were + so poor she said to herself "<i>flaco, flaco</i>" + (so thin.) She then turned to us, Rogers and I, whom she had + seen before, and as her lively little youngster clung to her + dress, as if in fear of such queer looking people as we were, + she took an orange from her pocket and pointing to the + children of our party, wanted to know if we had given them the + four oranges she sent to them by us. We made signs that we had + done as she requested, when she smiled and said + "<i>Buenos Muchuchos</i>" (good boys.) In all this + talk neither could say a word the other could understand, and + the conversation was carried on by signs.<br> + </p> + <p>Arcane said to her—"Me Catholic" which she + seemed partly to comprehend and seemed more friendly. About + this time two men rode up and took a look at us. Arcane, who + was a mason, gave the masonic sign, as he told me afterward, + but neither of them recognized it. We used such words of + Spanish as I had taken down in my pass book and committed to + memory and by motions in addition to these made them + understand something of the state of affairs and that Mr. + French who had assisted us before had told us we could get + some meat (<i>carne</i>) from them. These men were finely + mounted, wore long leggins made of hide, dressed with the hair + on, which reached to their hips, stiff hats with a broad rim, + and great spurs at their heels. Each had a coil of braided + rawhide rope on the pommel of the saddle, and all these + arrangements together made a very dashing outfit.<br> + </p> + <p>They seemed to understand what we had said to them, for + they rode off with a rush and came back in a short time, + leading a fine, fat two-year-old heifer. When near our camp + the rider who was behind threw his <i>riata</i> and caught + both hind feet of the animal when by a sudden movement of the + horses the heifer was thrown. One of them dismounted, and at + the command the horse backed up and kept the rope tight while + the man went up to the prostrate beast and cut its throat. As + soon as it had ceased struggling, they loosened their ropes + and coiled them up: they came to us and pointed to the dead + heifer in a way which said—"Help + yourselves."<br> + </p> + <p>We were much gratified at the generosity of the people, and + at once dressed the animal as it lay, cutting off some good + fat pieces which we roasted over the fire and ate with a + relish. It seemed as if meat never tasted so good as that did + sweet, fragrant, and juicy. If some French cook could only + cook a steak that would smell and taste to his customers as + that meal tasted to us, his art would be perfect. We separated + a hind quarter and hung it to a tree, and when the lady came + back we told her that the piece we had selected was enough for + our present use, so she caused the remainder with the hide to + be taken to the house. Toward night they drove up a lot of + cows and calves and other cattle into their cattle yard or + corral, as it is called all over California, a stockade of + strong oak posts set deep in the ground and close together, + enclosing a space of about half an acre. The horsemen now rode + in and began to catch the calves with their ropes. It seemed + as if they were able to throw a rope over a calf's head or + around either leg they desired, with better aim, and at as + great a distance as one could shoot a Colt's revolver, and we + saw at once that a good raw-hide rope, in the hands of an + experienced man and well-trained horse, was a weapon in many + respects superior to firearms of any kind. A man near the gate + loosened the ropes and pushed the calves into a separate + corral till they had as many as they desired.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers watched the circus till it was over and then + returned to camp, meeting on the way Bennett and Arcane, with + their wives and children, carrying some blankets, for the good + lady had invited them to come up to the house and sleep. They + said we could go down and keep camp if old dog Cuff was + willing, for they had left him guarding the property. He was + pleased enough to have us come and keep him company, and we + slept nicely, disturbed only a little by the barking of the + house dogs and the hooting of an owl that came to visit our + tree.<br> + </p> + <p>The people came back to camp in the morning and had their + experience to relate. Their hosts first baked some kind of + slapjacks and divided them among their guests; then gave them + beans seasoned hot with pepper: also great pieces of squash + cooked before the fire, which they said was delicious and + sweet—more than good. Then came a dish of dried meat + pounded fine, mixed with green peppers and well fried in beef + tallow. This seemed to be the favorite dish of the + proprietors, but was a little too hot for our people. They + called it <i>chili cum carne</i>—meat with + pepper—and we soon found this to be one of the best + dishes cooked by the Californians. The children were carefully + waited on and given special attention to by these good people, + and it was nearly ten o'clock before the feast was over: then + the household had evening worship by meeting in silence, + except a few set words repeated by some in turn, the ceremony + lasting half an hour or more. Then they came and wished them + <i>buenos noches</i> in the most polite manner and left them + to arrange their blankets on the floor and go to sleep.<br> + </p> + <p>The unaccustomed shelter of a roof and the restless + worrying of the children, who required much attention, for the + change of diet had about the same effect on them as on Rogers + and myself when we first partook of the California food, gave + them little sleep, but still they rested and were truly + grateful for the most perfect hospitality of these kind + hearted people.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning the two horsemen and two Indians went to the + corral, when the riders would catch a cow with their ropes and + draw her head up to a post, binding it fast, while an Indian + took a short piece of rope and closely tied the hind legs + together above the gambrel joint, making the tail fast also. + They had a large bucket and several gourds. The Indians then + milked the cows they had made fast, getting from a pint to two + quarts from each one, milking into a gourd and pouring into + the bucket till they had all they desired. The calves were + separated the night before so they could secure some milk. + Cows were not trained to stand and be milked as they were at + home. Setting down the bucket of milk before us, with some + small gourds for dippers, we were invited to drink all we + wished. This was a regular banquet to us, for our famished + condition and good appetites made food relish wonderfully. + When we made a sign of wishing to pay them for their great + kindness they shook their heads and utterly refused. It was + genuine sympathy and hospitality on their part, and none of us + ever forgot it; the sight of a native Californian has always + brought out thoughts of these good people, and respect and + thankfulness to the race. This rancho, at which we were so + kindly entertained was called San Francisquito, or Little San + Francisco Rancho.<br> + </p> + <p>This morning Mr. Arcane, with our assistance, made an + arrangement with these people to give them his two oxen; and + they were to take him and his wife and child, to the + sea-shore, at a place called San Pedro, from which place he + hoped, in some way, to get passage to San Francisco in a + sailing vessel. He had no money, and no property to sell, + except perhaps his spy-glass, worth about ten dollars. With + this poor prospect before him he started for the sea. He bade + Bennett's folks good-bye, then came to me and put a light gold + ring on my finger, saying that it and his interest in the + little mule were mine. Then he gave his silver watch to Rogers + and said it was all he had to give him, but if he had a + million dollars, he would divide, and still think it a small + compensation for the faithful services we had rendered him. + "I can never repay you," said he, "for I owe + you a debt that is beyond compensation. You have saved our + lives, and have done it when you knew you could get nothing + for it. I hope we will meet again, and when we do you will be + welcome. If you hear of me anywhere, come and see me, for I + want to tell my friends who Manly and Rogers are, and how you + helped us. Good Bye!" There were tears in his eyes, voice + full of emotion, and the firm clasp of his hand told how + earnest he was, and that he felt more than he could speak.<br> + </p> + <p>He helped Mrs. Arcane on her horse, then gave Charlie to + her, and, amid waving hands and many <i>adios</i> from our + new-found friends, with repeated "good byes" from + the old ones, they rode away. Mrs. Arcane could hardly speak + when she bade us farewell, she was so much affected. They had + about sixty miles to ride to reach the sea, and as she rode on + a man's saddle, and was unused to riding, I knew she would be + sadly wearied before she reached the coast.<br> + </p> + <p>Our little train now seemed much smaller. Three oxen and a + mule were all our animals, and the adults must still walk, as + they had done on our desert route. But we were comparatively + happy, for we had plenty of good meat to eat, plenty of sweet + water to drink, and our animals were contented and improving + every day; grass and water seemed plenty everywhere. We put + our luggage on the oxen and the mule, loaded the children on + Old Crump as we had done before, and were ready to move again. + Our good friends stood around and smiled good-naturedly at our + queer arrangements, and we, not knowing how to say what our + hearts would prompt us to, shook their hands and said good bye + in answer to their "<i>adios amigos</i>" as we moved + away, waving hands to each other.<br> + </p> + <p>The men then detained me a little while to ask me more + about the road we had come over, how far it was, and how bad + the Indians were, and other particulars. I told him by signs + that we had been twenty-two days on the road, and that the + <i>Indianos</i>, as they called them, had not troubled us, but + that there was very little grass or water in all that land. He + made a sort of map on the ground and made me understand he + would like to go back and try to bring out the wagons we had + left behind, and he wanted me to go back with him and help + him. I explained to him by the map he had made, and one which + I made myself, that I considered it impossible to bring them + over. He seemed much disappointed, and with a shrug of his + shoulders said "<i>mucho malo</i>" (very bad) and + seemed to abandon the idea of getting a Yankee wagon. They + very much admired an American wagon, for their own vehicles + were rude affairs, as I shall bye-and-bye describe. We bade + each other many <i>adios</i>, and I went on my way, soon + catching up with the little party. We had been informed that + it was ten leagues, or thirty miles to Los Angeles, whither we + were now headed.<br> + </p> + <p>We had now been a whole year on the road between Wisconsin + and California, much of the time with the ground for a bed, + and though our meals had been sometimes scanty and long + between, very few of us had missed one on account of sickness. + Some, less strong than we, had lain down to perish, and had + been left behind, without coffin or grave; but we were here, + and so far had found food to nourish us in some degree with + prospects now of game in the future if nothing better offered. + We still talked of going to the gold mines on foot, for with + good food and rest our courage had returned, and we wanted to + succeed.<br> + </p> + <p>Our camp this night was in a nice watering place, where dry + oak wood was plenty and grass abundant. It was at the foot of + the San Fernando Mountain, not rocky, as we had found our road + some time before, but smooth and covered with grass. It was + rather steep to climb, but an infant compared with the great + mountains so rough and barren, we had climbed on our way from + Death Valley. Our present condition and state of mind was an + anomalous one. We were happy, encouraged, grateful and quite + contented in the plenty which surrounded us, and still there + was a sort of puzzling uncertainty as to our future, the way + to which seemed very obscure. In the past we had pushed on our + very best and a kind Providence had kept us. This we did now, + but still revolved the best plans and the most fortunate + possibilities in our minds. We talked of the time when we + should be able to show hospitality to our friends, and to + strangers who might need our open hand as we had needed the + favors which strangers had shown us in the last few days.<br> + </p> + <p>We ate our supper of good meat, with a dessert of good + beans our kind friends had given us, and enjoyed it greatly. + As we sat in silence a flock of the prettiest, most graceful + birds came marching along, and halted as if to get a better + view of our party. We admired them so much that we made not a + move, but waited, and they fearlessly walked on again. We + could see that there were two which were larger than the rest, + and from twelve to twenty smaller ones. The little top-knot on + the head and their symmetrical forms made them specially + attractive, and Mrs. Bennett and the children were much + pleased. The beauty of the California quail is especially + striking to one who sees them for the first time.<br> + </p> + <p>In the morning we began to climb the hill, getting along + very well indeed, for our raw-hide moccasins were now dry and + hard and fitted the foot perfectly. We did not try to make + great speed, but kept steadily on, and as we were used to + climbing, we reached the summit easily. From this elevation we + could get a fine view of the big grassy plain that seemed to + extend as far as the eye could reach and, not far from us, the + buildings and gardens of the San Fernando Mission. If we could + shut out the mountains the landscape would remind us of a + great Western prairie. We never could get over comparing this + country with the desolate Death Valley, for it seemed as if + such strange and striking opposites could hardly exist.<br> + </p> + <p>We rested here a little while and then wound our way down + the hill to the level land. A few miles brought us to the + mission houses and the church of San Fernando. There was not + much life about them, in fact they seemed comparatively + deserted, for we saw only one man and a few Indians. The man + brought some oranges and gave the children one each. After a + little rest we moved on over our road which was now quite + smooth and gently descending. Night overtook us in a place + where there was no water, but we camped and suffered no + inconvenience. A stream was passed next day, and a house near + by unoccupied. The road now began to enter gently rolling + hills covered with big grass and clover, which indicated rich + soil, and we never get tired of talking about it.<br> + </p> + <p>At the top of these hills we had another beautiful view as + far south and west as the eye could reach. Small objects, + probably horses and cattle, were scattered about the plain, + grazing in the midst of plenty. Our own animals were given + frequent opportunities to eat, and again and again we rejoiced + over the beauty. Of course it was not such a surprise and + wonder as it was when such a view first burst upon our sight, + but it pleased and delighted us ever. On the east was a + snow-capped peak, and here we were in the midst of green + fields of grass and wild flowers, in the softest climate of an + early spring. These strong contrasts beat anything we had ever + seen. Perhaps the contrast between the great snow mountain and + the hot Death Valley was greater in point of temperature, but + there the heat brought only barrenness, and of the two the + snow seemed the more cheerful. Here the vegetation of all + sorts was in full balance with the balmy air, and in + comparison the snow seemed a strange neighbor. It was quite a + contrast to our cold, windy March in Wisconsin, and we wonder + if it is always summer here. We were satisfied that even if we + could get no further we could live in such a land as this. The + broad prairie doubtless belonged to the United States, and we + could have our share and own a little piece of it on very easy + terms, and raise our own cattle and corn. If the people were + all as kind as those we had met we were sure at least of + neighborly treatment. I have endeavored to write this just as + it seemed to us then and not clothe the impressions with the + cover of later experience. The impressions we then daily + received and the sights we saw were stranger than the wildest + fiction, and if it so strikes you, my friendly reader, do not + wonder.<br> + </p> + <p>As we came over the hills we could see a village near the + southern base and it seemed quite near us. It was a new and + strange sight to us as we approached. The houses were only one + story high and seemed built of mud of a gray color, the roofs + flat, and the streets almost deserted. Occasionally a man + could be seen, sometimes a dog, and now and then an Indian, + sitting with his back to the house. The whole view indicated a + thinly populated place, and the entire absence of wagons or + animals was a rather strange circumstance to us. It occurred + to us at first that if all the emigrants were gone our + reception might be a cool one in this city of mud. One thing + was in its favor and that was its buildings were about fire + proof for they had earthen floors and flat roofs.<br> + </p> + <p>We rested half an hour or so just outside, and then + ventured down the hill into the street. We met an American + almost the first man, and when we asked about a suitable + camping place, he pointed out the way and we marched on. Our + strange appearance attracted the attention of the children and + they kept coming out of the houses to see the curious little + train with Old Crump carrying the children and our poor selves + following along, dirty and ragged. Mrs. Bennett's dress hardly + reached below her knees, and although her skirts were fringed + about the bottom it was of a kind that had not been adopted as + yet in general circle of either Spanish-American or good + United States society. The shortness of the dress made the + curious raw-hide moccasins only the more prominent, and the + whole make-up of the party was a curious sight.<br> + </p> + <p>We went down the hill a little further to the lower bottom + to camp, while the barefooted, bareheaded urchins followed + after to get a further look at the strangers. Before we + selected a suitable place, we saw two tents and some wagons + which looked like those of overland travelers, and we went + toward them. When within fifty yards two men suddenly came to + their feet and looked at our little party approaching as if in + wonder, but at twenty steps they recognized Bennett and came + rushing forward. "My God! It's Bennett" said they, + and they clasped hands in silence while one greeted Mrs. + Bennett warmly. The meeting was so unexpected they shed tears + and quietly led the way back to camp. This was the camp of + R.G. Moody and H.C. Skinner, with their families. They had + traveled together on the Platte and became well acquainted, + the warmest of friends, and knowing that Bennett had taken the + cut off, they more than suspected he and his party had been + lost, as no sight of them had come to their eyes. They had + been waiting here six weeks in order to get some reliable + news, and now Mr. Bennet answered for himself. Rogers and I, + belonging to another party, were of course strangers.<br> + </p> + <p>Leaving them to compare notes, Rogers and I took charge of + Old Crump, the oxen, and the mule, unpacked them, and arranged + camp under a monstrous willow tree. Bennett and his wife were + taken into Mr. Moody's tent, and an hour or so later when Mrs. + Bennett appeared again, she had her face washed clean, her + hair combed, and a new clean dress. It was the first time we + had found soap, and the improvement in her looks and feelings + was surprising. Bennett looked considerably cleaned up too, + and appeared bright and fresh. The children had also been + taken in hand and appeared in new clothes selected from the + wardrobe of the other children, and the old dirty clothes were + put in process of washing as soon as possible.<br> + </p> + <p>Supper came, and it was so inviting. There was real bread + and it looked so nice we smiled when it was offered to us. + Mrs. Bennett broke pieces for the children and cautioned them + not to eat too much. It did seem so good to be among friends + we could talk with and be understood. After supper was over + and the things cleared away we all sat down in a circle and + Bennett told the story of where he had been these many days on + the cut off that was to shorten the trail. Mr. Moody said he + had about given the party up and intended to start up the + coast to-morrow. The story was so long that they talked till + they were sleepy and then began again after breakfast, keeping + it up till they had a good outline of all our travels and + tribulations. This Mr. R.G. Moody, his wife and daughter, Mrs. + Quinby, and son Charles, all lived in San Jose and are now + dead. H.C. Skinner was a brother-in-law of Moody and also + lived a long time in San Jose, but himself, son and one + daughter, are now dead.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers and I now took the pack-saddle we had borrowed of + Mr. French to use on our trip to Death Valley and return, and + carried it to the saloon on the east side of the plaza, where + we were to place it if we got back safely, and delivered it to + the man in charge, with many thanks to Mr. French for his + favors to us, and sent him word that we would always remember + him and be ready to do him a similar or equal favor if ever we + were able. We considered him a good benevolent man, and such + he proved to be when he offered us fat oxen, good beans, and + any other thing we needed. He told the people in the house who + we were, which no doubt influenced them kindly in our favor + when we arrived.<br> + </p> + <p>At the saloon there was a large room with tables in it and + gambling going on actively. Money changed hands very rapidly, + drinks at the bar were frequent, and the whole affair moved + forward with the same regularity as any mercantile business. + The door stood wide open and any one could come and go at his + pleasure. Quite a number of black-eyed, fair looking women + circulated among the crowd, and this, to us, seemed quite out + of place, for we had never seen women in saloons before. We + watched the game awhile to see some losing and some gaining, + the result being quite exciting; but as neither of us had any + money, we could not have joined in the game had we been so + disposed; so we looked on awhile and then took a seat on the + ground outside of the house.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we talked over our chances of getting to the mines. + All the clothes we had were on our backs and feet and those + were the poorest of the poor. We had no money. I had the + little black-eyed mule, and Rogers had the watch Arcane had + given him. Mr. Moody had said it was 500 miles to San + Francisco, and 150 miles further to the mines, so that after + the hard travel of a year we were still a long way off from + the place we started for.<br> + </p> + <p>We could not see any way to make a living here. There was + no land cultivated, not a fence, nothing to require labor of + any kind. The valley was rich enough and produced great crops + of grass, and the cattle and horses we had seen grazing seemed + to be about all the use they put it to. It looked as if the + people must live principally on meat. I thought if we could + manage to get a little provision together, such as flour and + beans, that I could pack there on the mule, and I was pretty + sure I could find game that would be better meat than we had + lived on during the last two months on the desert.<br> + </p> + <p>We looked around to see if we could find something to do to + earn a little for a start, but were not successful. In our + walk about this city of mud we saw many things that seemed + strange to us. There were more women than men, and more + children than grown-up people, while the dogs were plenty. At + the edge of the town, near the river were some grape vines + fenced in with living willows, interlaced in some places with + dry vines. The Indians moved very moderately around and no + doubt had plenty of beef to eat, with very few wants to + provide for. We noticed some few people paying for small + things at the stores with small money. The women all dressed + much alike. The dress was of some cheap material, sandals on + feet, and a kind of long shawl worn over the head and thrown + over the shoulder. There seemed to be neither hoops nor + corsets in their fashions. The men wore trousers of white + cotton or linen, with a calico shirt, sandals, and a broad + rimmed snuff colored hat. The Indians and their wives went + bareheaded.<br> + </p> + <p>Near the end of the street we came to a boarding house and + went in and sat down in the empty room. Soon a man came in, + better dressed than ourselves, and much to our surprise it was + one of the old Death Valley travelers, the Rev. J.W. Brier + whom I last saw in his lone camp in the desert, discoursing to + his young sons on the benefits of an early education. I know + the situation struck me very strangely, with death staring + them in the face and he preaching!<br> + </p> + <p>We had a long talk about the hard journey we had each + experienced. As his party had not waited they had come through + ahead of us. He said himself and Mr. Granger had started a + boarding house when they arrived, and had been doing a good + business. He said that as long as the emigrants continued to + come he could get along very well. We asked him if there was + any chance for us to work and get money to get some provisions + to help us on the way to the mines. He said he could give work + to one of us hauling water for the house with oxen and cart, + and the one who could manage oxen was the man. I was an ox + driver and so told him I would take his team and cart and set + out with the work. He said he could pay fifty dollars a month, + and I accepted the offer quickly as I saw it was a good chance + to build up my exhausted strength and flesh.<br> + </p> + <p>I turned the little mule out in the hills near by, and + began my work. It was not hard, for the boarders were thinning + out. The natives did not patronize this hotel very much, but + grub disappeared pretty fast at my corner of the table, for my + appetite began to be ravenous. There was not much variety to + the food and very few luxuries or delicacies, which were hard + to obtain on such a bare market, but all seemed satisfied with + the food, and to me it tasted extra good.<br> + </p> + <p>Rogers went back to the old camp and helped them there, and + I often went over after dark, when my work was done. Moody and + Skinner had been active in trying to get Mr. Bennett ready to + go up the coast with them. Bennett had sold his repeating + rifle and with the proceeds and the help of his friends had + got another ox, making two yoke for him. They fixed up a wagon + for him, and yokes enough could be found where people had + traded off their oxen for horses. Provisions enough had been + gathered by Moody and Skinner for them all, and Rogers would + go along with the party to help them with the teams.<br> + </p> + <p>I was left alone after they started, and it was my idea to + quit when I had worked a month, and if my mule staid with me, + to start for the mines even if I went alone. The majority of + the male inhabitants of this town had gone to the mines, and + this accounted for the unusual proportion of women. We learned + that they would return in November, and then the gambling + houses would start up in full blast, for these native + Californians seemed to have a great natural desire to indulge + in games of chance, and while playing their favorite game of + monte would lay down their last reale (12-1/2 cents) in the + hope of winning the money in sight before them on the + table.<br> + </p> + <p>As the boarding house business got dull I was taken over to + a vineyard and set to work, in place of hauling water. The + entire patch was as green as a meadow with weeds, and I was + expected to clean them out. I inquired of Brier how he came to + get hold of this nice property, and he said that during the + war the soldiers had taken possession of this piece of ground, + and had their camp here, so he considered it was government + land, and therefore had squatted on it and was going to hold + it, and pay for it as regular government land, and that he + already considered it his own, for said he, "I am an + American, and this is a part of the public domain." + "All right," said I, "I will kill weeds for + you, if you wish, when I have time to spare, and you don't + want the oxen worked at any other work ".<br> + </p> + <p>I could see every day that I was improving in health and + weight and would soon become myself again, able to take the + road to the mines. When about two weeks of my time had expired + two oldish men came to the house to stop for a few days and + reported themselves as from Sacramento, buying up some horses + for that market. Thus far they had purchased only six or + eight, as they had found the price too high to buy and then + drive so far to a market to sell again. They had about decided + to go back with what they had and undertake some other kind of + business. I thought this would be a pretty good chance for me + to go, as I would have company, and so went to Brier and + Granger and told them what I would like to do, and that with + their permission I would quit and go on with them. They + readily consented, for their money was coming in rather slow, + and they paid me twenty five dollars for half a month's work. + This made me feel pretty rich and I thought this would give me + food enough to reach the mines.<br> + </p> + <p>Having two or three days to get ready in, I began doing the + best I could. I found an old saddle tree which had been thrown + away, and managed to fix it up so I could use it. I also found + an old gun some traveler had left, and with a little work I + fitted the breech of that to my own gun which was broken, and + had been roughly tied together with strips of raw-hide. I now + had a good sound gun if it was not very handsome. I bought a + Spanish blanket, not so wide as ours, but coarse and strong, + and having a hole in the center through which to put the head + and wear it as a garment in case of storm, or at night. I went + to a native store and bought a supply of carné seca + (dried beef) and some crackers, put some salt in my pocket and + was now provisioned for another trip. I found my mule in the + hills back of town, not far from where I left her, and the + rest and good feed had made her look better and feel better, + as well as myself.<br> + </p> + <p>The drovers had found two other men who wanted to go with + them and help drive the horses for their board. I put my + blanket on under the saddle, packed my little sack of meat and + crackers on behind, and when I was in the saddle with my gun + before me I considered I was pretty well fixed and able to + make my way against almost anything. I said to myself that the + only way now to keep me from getting to the gold mines was to + kill me. I felt that there was not a mountain so high I could + not climb, and no desert so wide and dry that I could not + cross it. I had walked and starved and choked and lived + through it, and now I felt so strong and brave I could do it + again—any way to reach the gold mines and get some of + the "dust."<br> + </p> + <p>I had not much idea how the gold from the mines looked. + Everybody called it gold dust, and that conveyed an idea to me + that it was fine as flour, but how to catch it I did not know. + I knew other people found a way to get it, and I knew I could + learn if any body could. It was a great longing that came to + me to see some of the yellow dust in its native state, before + it had been through the mint.<br> + </p> + <p>At the last meal I took at the house there were only a few + at the table. Among them was a well dressed Californian who + evidently did not greatly fancy American cooking, but got + along very well till Mrs. Brier brought around the dessert, a + sort of duff. This the Californian tasted a few times and then + laid down his spoon saying it was no bueno, and some other + words I did not then understand, but afterward learned that + they meant "too much grease." The fellow left the + table not well pleased with what we generally consider the + best end of a Yankee dinner, the last plate.<br> + </p> + <p>While here I had slept in a small store room, where I made + my pallet out of old rags and blankets. While I was looking + round for material to make my bed I came across a bag partly + full of sugar, brought from Chili. It was in very coarse + crystals, some as large as corn. There were some other + treasures end luxuries there that perhaps I was expected + guard. I however had a sweet tooth and a handful or so of the + sweet crystals found their way into my pocket.<br> + </p> + <p>I bade Mr. Brier and the rest good bye and rode away to + join my company.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=360 alt="" src="images/ch_11.png" width=140 + border=0><br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-4887"></a>CHAPTER XII.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>[Leaving the little party whose wanderings we have followed + so closely, safely arrived in Los Angeles, their further + history in California will be taken up later on, and this + narrative will go back to points when the original party was + broken up and trace the little bands in their varied + experience. It will be remembered that the author and his + friends, after a perilous voyage down Green River, halted at + the camp of the Indian chief, Walker, and there separated, the + Author and four companions striking for Salt Lake, while + McMahon and Field remained behind, fully determined to go on + down the river.<br> + </p> + <p>The story of these two men is told by McMahon in the + following interesting letter.]<br> + <br> + <br> + </p> + <div align="center"> + __________________________________<br> + <br> + <br> + </div> + <p>Dear Manley:—<br> + </p> + <p>Yours requesting me to give you a synopsis of the history + of incidents, experience, and observations of our mutual + friend, Richard Field and myself, from the time you, John + Rogers, Alfred Walton, and the Hazelrig brothers left us at + the camp of the generous old chief Walker on the west bank of + the river near the mouth of the "great seven days + cañon" is at hand.<br> + </p> + <p>You no doubt distinctly, and with pleasure, remember that + unbroken friendship which existed among us up to the time of + our separation and that we parted warm and tried friends.<br> + </p> + <p>Well, after you and your companions had left us we set to + work to prepare the canvas for the continuation of the voyage + down the river. We drilled holes through the sides of the + "Pilot"—you, I have no doubt remember which + that was, yours and mine, in which we took so many fearful + risks, and "No. 2," so that we might in case of + necessity lash the two together. After a day or two Field lost + courage and finally determined to go no further down the + river. Walker in the meantime had repeated his friendly + warnings appertaining to the great danger in going further + down the river. You will remember what he had told us about it + before you left us.<br> + </p> + <p>You know that I was the biggest coward of the whole seven; + but I assumed courage and told Field that I would go down the + river alone; and, for a time, I thought I would do so; but + after some reflection I concluded that, perhaps, discretion + was the better part of valor, and reluctantly gave it up. We + now decided to follow you, or to take some other unknown route + and try to make our escape out of this most perilous + condition.<br> + </p> + <p>We then set about, as you had done, to trade with Walker + for a pony or two, and after much dickering Field succeeded in + getting the, afterwards famous, big, old, sore-backed mule. + You may not remember him, but I do; and, notwithstanding his + sore back, he made pretty good beef. I, with pins, needles, + thread, a pocket-knife, a handkerchief, etc., succeeded in + getting a very nice, round, three-year-old, iron-gray + pony.<br> + </p> + <p>After making pack-saddles, and getting almost ready to + start, we were, through Walker's kindness and persuasiveness, + overcome, and consented to go with him, feeling confident that + we would not starve to death while with him. We did not now + have Manley with his long experience, and his old rusty, but + always trusty, rifle as a sure defence against possible hunger + and starvation.<br> + </p> + <p>The old chief, and, in fact, the whole tribe, seemed + pleased when we consented to go with them. Preparations were + now made, and all except the horses and four head of cattle, + was conveyed across the river in the two canoes which were + lashed together, while the horses and cattle were forced to + swim to the other side where we camped for the night. Next + morning the clever old chief had two good horses fitted up in + good style for Field and I, which we rode all of the nine days + that we remained with the band, while our own run with the + herd. Our baggage was carried on some of the chief's + pack-horses. We were, in fact, his honored guests, as will + hereafter appear.<br> + </p> + <p>All were soon mounted and off to the buffalo fields, Walker + having informed us that he intended going up into the buffalo + country on the head-waters of Grand River where he would + remain until snow fell, when he would go to Salt Lake City, or + vicinity.<br> + </p> + <p>Leaving the river, we set out across a not entirely barren + plain, for there was much sage-brush, and several varieties of + cactus. Towards evening we came close up to the foot of a + range of rugged, rocky mountains, where we found water and + camped for the night. Field and I usually pitched our little + muslin tent somewhere near our friends where we could sleep + without fear of man or beast, for I think some one of the reds + was always on guard.<br> + </p> + <p>All went well for four or five days, when we all got + entirely out of food except a few ounces of flour which we had + hidden away for a possible emergency. During the following two + days and nights all were entirely without food except the two + little children, whom you no doubt remember. We gave their + mother a little flour now and then which she mixed with a + little milk which one of the cows afforded, for the little + ones. These Indians did not seem to suffer for want of food; + even when we were starving, they appeared happy and contented; + and one young fellow would sing all day long while we were + starving. Daring the second day of starvation and hard + traveling over hot and barren deserts, the Indians killed a + wild-cat and two small rabbits. We got nothing. You will + remember that all the arms of the seven men were lost in the + river when the canoes were sunk, except your rifle and my + double barreled shot-gun and revolver, so that Field and I had + only the one gun, and neither of us knew anything about + hunting. When we camped, one of the boys brought over to our + tent a quarter of the cat, which was more than a fair share of + the whole supply, as twenty-two of them had only the two + little rabbits and three quarters of the unfortunate cat. We + boiled and boiled and boiled that cat's hind leg, but never + got it done. We waited as long as we possibly could, gave up + in despair and put a little flour into the broth to thicken + it, and drank it. It was not good, but much better the meat of + the cat. That cat and the rabbits were all the twenty-four of + us had to eat, after fasting two days, until late in the + evening of the next day.<br> + </p> + <p>My people were religious, and when I was young the family + was wont to observe fast days, but never did we have any such + long fasts as these were. In the afternoon of the next day the + old chief left the caravan and went on ahead of the train + toward a chain of mountains, first giving some directions to + the band, and taking one son with him. When we arrived in a + small cañon in the edge of the mountains we found them + with a fine mountain sheep which they had killed and brought + down to the dim, little-used trail where we camped; and after + we had set up our little tent as usual, a short distance away + from our friends, one of the young men brought to us about one + fourth of the sheep, while the twenty-two Indians had the + rest.<br> + </p> + <p>You know that a good-sized mountain sheep would make a fair + supper for twenty-four people, even though they had been + starving three or four days; but this was a small one, and I + think Field and I ate about half of the quarter. The + twenty-two Indians soon devoured the three-fourths and all of + the soft viscera, including the stomach and intestines, after + which some of the boys came to our tent while we were stuffing + our, what had been for several days empty, stomachs. We + offered them part of our bounteous supply of mutton, having + much more than we could eat; but no, they would not touch it + until we were filled full, when they accepted what was left, + and soon stowed it away. All were now pretty well filled up + once more.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day was spent without food, traveling over rough + mountains. Within a pass, late in the afternoon, we crossed + the fresh trail of some other band of roving red-skins, and + Walker suspected who they were, and went into camp early. The + Indians had killed nothing that day, but I had killed a small + rabbit which, unfortunately for it, came in my way during the + day. This we offered to the women for themselves and the + little children; but they positively refused to accept it, + insisting that they did not want it or need it, and that the + small supply of milk from the cow was quite sufficient for the + little ones, and the others spurned the offer to divide so + little a thing, so we had it all to ourselves.<br> + </p> + <p>It appeared that these people were accustomed to go for + long periods without food, and with little apparent + inconvenience; but Field and I began to feel as I suppose Dr. + Tanner felt after a few days' fasting, and began to wish that + the old chief would get hungry and kill one of his large, fat + steers, but he still held them in reserve.<br> + </p> + <p>Early the next morning, now nine days from the time we had + left the river, the old chief took two of the young men and + left camp, as we afterwards learned, to go in search of the + Indians whose trail we had crossed the evening before. Some + time in the early part of the night, one of the young men + returned and informed us that they had found the wandering + tribe, and that we were to go back to their trail and follow + it to their camp up in a Southeast direction, Walker and one + of the young men having remained with their new-found + friends.<br> + </p> + <p>Field and I both felt greatly disappointed in not being + able to proceed north; and in the meantime we had become very + tired of the society of these people, notwithstanding the fact + that they were exceedingly clever; but we were almost starved + to death, and had about come to the conclusion that we would + be obliged to make some change. We were still on the east side + of, and considerable distance from the river, and probably not + more than one hundred, or one hundred and twenty miles from + the place where we parted from you.<br> + </p> + <p>The chief had sent particular instructions for us to go + with the tribe; but, after canvassing the whole situation, we + decided to part company with our good friends, proceed + northward, and try to reach Fort Bridger or some other + settlement in the northwest, and so informed them, and + requested the boys to bring in our mule and horse, which they + did after failing to induce us to go with them.<br> + </p> + <p>Bright and early the next morning, they all, even the + polygamous wives and little children, in apparent sorrow, bade + us good-bye, and were off, leaving us alone with our two poor, + lonely, four-footed companions, who were very anxious to + follow the band of horses. After the rather melancholy parting + we arranged our packs, and about ten o'clock started out on + what then seemed, and afterwards proved, to be a perilous + voyage through deserts, and over rough mountains. To avoid a + high range of mountains, our course was for a time northeast + but, after passing that range we bore to the northwest.<br> + </p> + <p>The days were quite warm, but the nights were cold. During + the first day we killed and ate one small rabbit, and this, + with a few seed buds gathered from wild rose bushes, + constituted two days' rations. On the third we did not have + even the rabbit or rose seed buds, but late in the afternoon + we found some small red berries, similar in appearance to what + I, in my childhood, knew and relished as Solomon's seal + berries. I being a natural coward, and fearing that they might + poison me, did not eat any of them, but generously allowed my + good friend to eat them all.<br> + </p> + <p>We had now been almost entirely without water for two days + and nights. When night came on we picketed our animals in a + grass plot and lay down near them to see that they did not get + tangled in the ropes and hurt, or that some red skin, not + having the fear of the Lord in his heart, did not come and + take them away. About ten o'clock my companion began to + complain of pain in his stomach and bowels, and was soon + vomiting at a fearful rate; so violently, indeed, that I was + apprehensive that he might die. If I had had an emetic I would + have given it to him to have assisted nature in pumping those + devilish little red berries out of him, for I felt quite sure + that they were the cause of his illness. Perhaps it was + fortunate that there was no medecine at hand, for if there had + been I might have killed him with it.<br> + </p> + <p>He suffered most intensely, and soon became very thirsty, + and, there being no water within many miles of us, he appealed + to me to bleed one of the animals and let him drink the blood; + I refused: he insisted; I again refused: he commanded; I still + refused. He swore, and called me almost everything except a + good Christian; he even expressed the wish that I, his friend, + might be sent to a certain place where the heat is most + intense, and the fire is never quenched.<br> + </p> + <p>At about eleven o'clock, when his pains were most severe, a + dark cloud, the first we had seen for months, came over us, + and a little rain began to fall, when I at once opened our + little camp kettle and turned the lid upside down, and into + both kettle and lid there fell perhaps two or three + teaspoonfuls of pure water, every drop of which I gave to the + sufferer, whereupon he expressed thanks for another God-send, + and at once apologized for bestowing unmerited abuse on me. He + afterwards often asserted that he believed that the little + rain-cloud was sent by God for his special benefit, and that + the water caught from that cloud was the sweetest and best + that he had ever tasted. I did not doubt the latter half of + the above statement, but I did have some doubt about the truth + of the former half when I called to mind the scene which + followed my refusal to bleed the horse. Whether the small + quantity of water gave him much relief, or not, I do not know, + but I do know that he soon became better and slept some while + I watched. He was quite feeble next morning when I put him on + the old sore-backed mule, where he rode most of the time for + the next four days, while the little horse carried our + baggage, and I led the way as usual, on foot.<br> + </p> + <p>For four days from the time Field ate the little red + berries we did not have a drop of water except the two or + three teaspoonfuls which the stingy cloud left to save the + life of the "berry-eater." We were still on the + desert, or in the mountains east of the river, traveling hard + during the day, and burning up with fever in the night. There + was plenty of drying grass in places, but our poor animals + could not eat it any longer, for they, too, were burning up + for want of water. Oh, how much I did wish that we had some + camels from Arabia, which could have gone so much longer + without water, and traveled so much faster.<br> + </p> + <p>On the morning of the third day of starvation, we + determined to change our course, and, if possible, reach the + river once more. Bearing to the left over a high, barren range + of rocky mountains, and down into a plain of sand, sage brush, + and cactus. During the afternoon I shot a small rabbit, not + much larger than a rat, which we carried until night, then + broiled and tried to eat it, not because our appetites craved + it, but hoping that it might strengthen and sustain us, at + least a little while longer. We were, however, so nearly + burned up that there was not a sufficient flow of saliva to + moisten the little bits of broiled meat in the mouth. Late + that afternoon we fancied that our fast failing brute + companions scented water, or that they instinctively knew that + it was not far away. They would raise their heads, and extend + their noses as if smelling, while their physical force and + energy seemed renewed, and they certainly traveled faster.<br> + </p> + <p>That night we ate the little, as before stated, more as a + duty than as a pleasure. There was some green grass round + about where we camped, or, more properly speaking, where we + lay, for we did not erect our little tent,—but the poor + starving animals did not eat a bite of it, but stood over us + as if in sympathy with us in our deplorable condition. We rose + before the sun, being somewhat rested and refreshed, for the + night had been cool, and took up our line of march, I, as + usual, in the lead, then came the old mule guided by its + precious owner, and lastly, the faithful little horse with the + pack on his still quite round back;—on over the still + dry and barren plain we went, without a Moses, cloud, or + pillar of fire to lead us.<br> + </p> + <p>About ten o'clock, through the hot glimmer of the + down-pouring rays of the sun, we saw what appeared, and + afterwards proved, to be a clump of cottonwood trees. Our + hopes and courage were renewed, for we well knew the + cottonwood usually grows near flowing water. There was no + beaten pathway, no signs of animal life, no quails, no manna + in that desert; but on we went, almost without a halt, and at + one o'clock reached the cottonwood grove, immediately on the + bank of the great river down which we had floated in our + canoes more than a month before. On reaching the bank of the + river we recognized objects which we had seen while on our way + down.<br> + </p> + <p>We remembered that both men and horses might be + water-foundered, and that self-preservation is said to be the + first law of nature; but it was difficult to prevent the + famishing brutes from plunging into the river. We allowed them + to take only a small quantity at first, and each of us took + only a small cupful; then after a little time all took more, + and the thirst was soon quenched. We were surprised to find + how little water it took to satisfy the raging thirst of four + days of continued fasting. The animals, after taking + comparatively small quantities, seemed satisfied, and went off + in search of grass.<br> + </p> + <p>We now had an abundance of water, but we well knew that + water alone would not sustain life very long: therefore our + next, and most serious business was to determine how to + prolong our lives. According to our map, our recollections of + different objects, and present appearances we were now a + little above the mouth of the Uinta river which comes in from + the northwest, all of which proved true. Our little map + pictured Fort Uinta on the Uinta river about one hundred miles + from where we were; but whether or not there were any human + beings there, we did not know, and in order to determine we + must cross this great river and travel a hundred miles, and + this seemed a perilous undertaking for us in our present + starving condition; but after being refreshed by plenty of + good water we determined to undertake it, hoping that good + fortune might attend us.<br> + </p> + <p>After a little rest, the animals with grass, we packed up, + and after Field had put on his, once serviceable, life + preserver he mounted the old mule behind the small pack and + started to swim across the river. He took the lead in this + instance for three reasons: first, we thought that the mule, + being much older than the horse, had probably had more + experience and therefore might be a much better swimmer; then + Field had the advantage in having the life preserver; but the + last, and most potent, reason was my fear of getting drowned. + It was understood that I was to remain on shore and be ready + to assist him if necessary, or until he had safely landed on + the other side.<br> + </p> + <p>In he went, and the trusty old mule was swimming + faithfully, and had reached the middle of the river, when + Field, as he afterwards told me, to hurry the mule, gave a + gentle jerk on the bridle, when, to his utter astonishment, + the mule made a complete somerset backwards plunging Field, + the pack, and himself entirely under the water, except his + heels which appeared above the water as his head went under. + In a moment Field popped up and, after shaking his head as a + swimmer will do after taking a plunge, cast about to take his + bearings, or to determine just where he was, and began to + paddle with his hands, much as he did when the canoes were + upset on the river, or somewhat after the style of a swimming + dog. On coming to the surface, the mule cast a glance at the + still living, but unloaded portion of his cargo, then made a + bee line for the shore which he had so recently left. While + Field continued to paddle and float down the river, I + dismounted and followed along the bank, trying to encourage + him to renewed efforts to float ashore. Finally he passed + behind a clump of willows out of sight; but soon I heard him + call for help and on going a little further down, found him + stuck fast in the mud. I waded waist deep into that mud, and + literally dragged him out, almost a mile below his starting + point.<br> + </p> + <p>As we were struggling in this muddy swamp, Field said he + wondered why some of this superfluous water was not + distributed over those dry deserts from which we had so + recently come. I told him, politely, that I thought that a man + of his age, ability, opportunities, and nationality, (you know + he was quite proud of being an Englishman) ought to know why + the moisture was not so distributed, and that I was too + illiterate to enlighten him on that point, but that, when + opportunity offered, he might consult some one who knew more + of natural science than I did. I informed him that I had an + idea that if any considerable portion of the water of that + river had been distributed over that desert that we would not + have had the experience of the last fifteen days, whereupon he + very plainly intimated that I did not have much sense, or, in + other words, he called me a d----d fool.<br> + </p> + <p>After reaching solid ground and resting for a little while, + we returned to the place from which he had started out on his + perilous voyage, and where I had hastily left my horse. We + found the horse and mule quietly grazing with their packs on + their backs. The faithful old mule had the appearance of + having been wet, but was now almost dry, yet not so dry, + internally, as he had been several days before.<br> + </p> + <p>What shall we do now? We are perhaps two hundred or more + miles from any white settlement. We do not know that Fort + Uinta is occupied. Shall we make another attempt to cross the + river? I asked my brave friend if he was willing to again + mount the mule and make another attempt, when he again + exclaimed, "You must be a d-----d fool!" I then, + pretending to have a little courage, asked him if he would + follow provided I would lead, whereupon he declared most + emphatically that under no conditions would he again attempt + to swim across that river. I had not had his experience, but + fear of being drowned was quite sufficient to prevent me from + undertaking the perilous task, more especially after + witnessing his failure.<br> + </p> + <p>Well, what next? We could not depend upon fishing and + hunting, for we had no fish-hooks, nor means of catching fish, + and not more than a dozen loads of shot, and a little powder; + so the matter of slaying one of our animal friends was now + seriously debated, and, after thoroughly canvassing the whole + situation, it was most reluctantly determined that, however + hard, this must be done. No doubt our starving condition at + that particular time had some weight in making this + decision.<br> + </p> + <p>Then the question was, which of the animals shall be + sacrificed? The mule was quite thin, and probably tough, while + the little horse was young, and, notwithstanding the many days + it had, with all of us, starved and traveled without water, + was still quite plump and round, and probably tender, or, at + the worst, not so tough as the poor old docile mule; so, at + length we decided to kill the innocent little creature, jerk + his flesh, pack it on the mule, and thereby try to save our + own lives, for a time at least, and endeavor to reach some + place of safety.<br> + </p> + <p>The matter of slaying the horse was determined by casting + lots, neither being willing to perform that melancholy, but + now absolutely necessary, act. It fell to my lot, and that was + one of, if not the most revolting act in my whole life's + experience, for I had, probably, become as strongly attached + to that little horse as man ever becomes attached to animal. I + most reluctantly took the bridle in my left hand, my revolver + in my right, stood directly in front of the poor, + unsuspecting, innocent creature with the murderous pistol + close to, and a little above a line extending from eye to eye, + and fired. When the smoke of the powder had cleared off a + little, I saw at my feet the quivering, dying body. I + staggered off a few steps and sat down, sick at heart.<br> + </p> + <p>Field walked several steps away, and turned his back upon + the scene until after the fatal shot had been fired; then, + after some little time, he entered upon his share of the + enforced duty, and, after having removed a portion of the + skin, cut off some slices of flesh and brought them to a fire + I had started. We broiled and ate a little of it, not through + desire or relish for it, but from a sense of duty, knowing + that our lives depended upon it.<br> + </p> + <p>It is said that for many years Dr. Franklin refrained from + eating flesh, having an idea that it was wrong to slay and eat + the flesh of other creatures; but that he changed his mind, + and his diet, too, after having seen large fish devour small + ones. I strongly suspect that if the doctor had been with us, + or in a like condition, even before his conversion, he would, + more than likely have taken a little flesh, even though it had + been a piece of his own favorite horse.<br> + </p> + <p>I said we only ate a little at first: I only ate a little + for two reason; first, I did not relish the food; second, I + had heard of persons being killed by eating too much after + fasting for a long time, and I had no desire to commit suicide + just then. Field ate too much. Night came on, work was + suspended, and we retired. The poor old lone, and, no doubt, + now lonely, mule, having filled himself with grass, came up + near the now terribly-mutilated remains of his late companion, + and looked on as Field continued his bloody work. Field, with + an expression of sorrow, said, "If that mule could reason + and look forward to the time when his body might be in a like + condition as that of this horse, he would, no doubt, take to + his heels, bid us a final farewell, and seek other + society." But, fortunately for us, he did not know that + he was to be held in reserve for our future security. He was + securely tied up every night from that time until the day he + was slain for our salvation.<br> + </p> + <p>Early in the night following that eventful day, my + companion began to complain much as he had done on the night + after he had eaten the little red berries; but there was no + lack of water now, no need of a special rain-cloud. I got up, + heated water in our little camp kettle, applied hot cloths to + his aching belly, and did everything else that either of us + could think of for his relief. The pain was intense, and we + feared that he would surely die, and earnestly prayed all the + rest of the night that he might be relieved, and get well. + Towards morning most violent vomiting came on, which continued + for thirty hours, or more. He was not able to walk for three + days, and during that time I nursed him, finished jerking the + meat, and built a raft of some partly rotten logs, which I + found in the vicinity, on which we floated across the river, + on the fourth day after our arrival here. I also looked to the + welfare of the mule, and prepared some bags in which to carry + our jerk. Manley, I am sure that you know the meaning of the + term "jerk" so that a definition of the word is not + at all necessary.<br> + </p> + <p>The old logs of which the raft was made were remnants of + log cabins, a number of which had been built and occupied more + than half a century before, but by whom I do not know. Field + remarked that the finding of these old rotting logs there was + another "God send," as we then had neither ax, + hammer, nor any tool of iron with which to cut down a tree. I + bound these logs together with long strips cut from the hide + of the dead horse. Paddles and poles were also provided. The + mule was with difficulty driven across the river.<br> + </p> + <p>When the raft was landed on the west bank, the mule packed, + and all about ready to start, I took the long strip of + raw-hide from the raft and tied one end of it around the + mule's neck, mounted Field on the mule behind the large pack, + which made the whole outfit look quite comical indeed. Before + leaving the other side of the river I had discovered that the + saddle girth was not very strong, so I cut a wide belt from + the hide of the lately slaughtered horse and fitted it to the + saddle as a girth, knowing that the pack, now containing all + of our goods and a supply of more than a bushel of jerk, would + be quite bulky, if not heavy, and more difficult to keep on + the back of a mule than it is for the camel to maintain his + hump on his back. This girth afterwards made us two or three + pretty substantial meals, as did also the long strip of green, + wet hide, one end of which I had tied round the mule's neck, + allowing it to drag for a long distance through the hot dry + sand.<br> + </p> + <p>All being ready, I, as usual, took the lead with my shot + gun, which I always carried, but with which I seldom killed + anything, on my shoulder. The old mule followed with his high, + towering pack, and Field almost hidden behind. It was noon, + but we did not stop for dinner, but simply reached into one of + the great bulging sacks, took out a piece of jerk and ate it + as we went marching on; no more trouble now about cooking. + Late in the afternoon we reached Uinta river, and, as my + two-legged companion had grown very tired of the back of the + four-legged one, we went into camp early. Our objective point + was Fort Uinta, where we hoped to find military. We could not + risk turning the mule loose at night, and the long strip of + raw-hide was designed and used to secure him, and yet to + afford him liberty to graze while we slept. As you will see a + little further on, both girth and lariat were used for a + purpose not anticipated.<br> + </p> + <p>The second, third, fourth, and fifth days came and went, + and we were trudging on, up the Uinta, through a mostly very + barren country, with some little rich and fertile land. We saw + signs of Indians often, but no Indians. There was much + cottonwood, but little other timber. We saw some fish in the + river which we coveted, but could not get. The main course of + this river is from north-west to south-east. We traveled most + of the way to the fort on Indian trails, some of which were + much worn, but mostly at some much earlier period. Of course + we had plenty of good water, and food, such as it was. Field + did not walk two miles during those five days, but seemed to + be fattening fast. I sometimes thought he might be just a + little lazy, but I never told him so, for I realized that he + had recently had a severe tussel with death.<br> + </p> + <p>Early in the morning of the sixth day we arrived at the + abandoned old fort. There were only three log buildings, and + they were in the shape of three sides of a hollow square, with + port-holes on the outer faces of the buildings, and doors + entering each of them from the hollow square or court. Facing + the vacant side of the court, the port-hole from which I shot + the wolf on the night after we had killed the mule, would be + on right hand side. We were unable to determine whether this + fort had been constructed and occupied by Americans or + Mexicans, but, from its apparent age, we were inclined to the + opinion that it was Mexicans. It had not been occupied for, + probably, three or four years. Some little farming had been + done immediately around the fort. Surrounding the fort is a + large body of fine, fertile land which I have no doubt has + long since been occupied by mormons, or other enterprising + people.<br> + </p> + <p>Having no means of subsistence here we soon decided to push + on towards Fort Bridger, and, after resting a few hours set + out following the larger fork of the river which comes almost + directly from the north. We now believed that we were almost, + if not exactly, due south of Fort Bridger. The river is small, + and very crooked; we crossed it many times within three days, + and, at the end of that time, found ourselves in the mouth of + a rocky cañon, and after struggling for one whole day, + we came to where the steep, high, stone walls closed the + little river in on both sides, rendering it impossible for us + to proceed any further.<br> + </p> + <p>We were now nearly out of food; the jerk was almost gone. A + council was held, and it was decided that we should return to + the fort and take chances of being rescued, or scalped by some + roving band of reds, or starving to death. We at once set out + on our return, full of disappointment and melancholy + forebodings.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day found us without food: and now came into use + the long, narrow strip of raw-hide which first bound together + the old, rotting logs of which the raft was made, then to + secure the mule of nights. It was now almost as hard as bone, + and nearly round, having been dragged through the hot sand + while it was yet green and wet, closed up like a hollow tube + with sand inside. Two or three yards of it at a time, was cut + into pieces about five inches long, the hair singed off, the + sand scratched out, and these pieces were dropped into our + camp kettle and cooked until the whole formed one mass of + jelly or gluten which was, to us, quite palatable. When the + lasso had all been thus prepared and eaten, the broad girth + which had served so well in holding the pack-saddle on the + mule's back, was cleaned, cooked, and eaten. These substitutes + for jerk sustained us very well till we again arrived at the + fort.<br> + </p> + <p>Another consultation was now held, and the question + was—what shall we do now? We were again, apparently, at + the starting point of another long, enforced fast. Our path + seemed hedged in. The prospect was, indeed, very gloomy. Our + only reasonable hope for even the temporary prolongation of + our lives was centered in our ever faithful, and always + reliable old mule. We revolted at the idea of killing and + eating him, but the last bit of the girth was gone. After + canvassing the whole situation over and over, again and again, + we finally, but most reluctantly decided to kill the mule, and + preserve all the soft parts, even the skin with all of its old + scars, and then gather in whatever else we could find, and + stay here until spring, or until good fortune might afford us + some means escape; till some Moses might come and lead us out + of this wilderness, notwithstanding the fact that we had not + borrowed any jewelry which we had failed to return.<br> + </p> + <p>There were signs of wolves in that vicinity, and it was + decided that the mule be slain about ten paces distant and + directly in front of one of the port-holes of the fort, with + the idea that wolves might smell the blood and come there and + subject themselves to being shot, and thereby afford us a + chance to increase our stock of winter supplies in the form of + wolf steak, or jerk. Accordingly the victim was lead to the + spot indicated, and there slain in the same manner, and with + quite as much reluctance on the part of the slayer, as on the + occasion of the sacrifice of the little horse, more than three + weeks before. The body was skinned, cut up, and all taken + within the building, nothing being left except the blood which + had been spilled on the ground, and which was intended to + attract wolves or, possibly, bears or other animals.<br> + </p> + <p>My now only living associate ridiculed the idea of killing + wolves, and insisted that the flesh could not be eaten, + stating the fact that even hogs would not eat the dead body of + a dog, and insisted that a dog was only a tamed wolf. I + reminded him of a cat which had been eaten. He finally agreed + that, if I killed a wolf, he would get up and dress it, but + said most emphatically that he would not sit up and watch for + it; so he went to bed, that is, rolled himself up in a blanket + on the ground in front of a good fire inside of the fort, and + went to sleep, while I sat with my rather untrustworthy double + barreled shot-gun protruding through the port-hole in full + view of the spot before indicated. The night was clear, and + the moon was shining in full splendor. It was probably eleven + o'clock; Field had been snoring for a long time, when I heard + something in the tall, dry grass, and soon a large, + brownish-gray wolf came into full view, with head up, + apparently sniffing, or smelling, and cautiously approaching + the fatal spot. When he reached it, and began to lick up the + blood which was still on the surface of the ground, standing + with his left side toward the fort, and in full view, I took + deliberate aim, and fired, and he fell upon the ground without + making any considerable noise.<br> + </p> + <p>The tired, sleeping man was aroused by the report of the + gun, and rushed into the room where I was in great excitement, + thinking, perhaps, that some enemy had appeared, and had just + then commenced to bombard the fort; but when I explained to + him that I had simply killed a wolf, he ran out towards it, + and, arriving close to it, the wounded creature rose up on its + hind feet and growled quite vigorously, which seemed to + frighten Field as much as did the noise of the gun. He dashed + back to the fort, and, after having time to recover from his + speechless condition, abused me most fearfully for having told + him that I had killed a wolf. I then went out and put a load + of shot into the wolf's head, and found that my first charge + had passed through and broke both of its fore legs near the + body. Field was so thoroughly frightened that I could not + induce him to approach the dead animal for some time, and I do + believe that that wolf haunted him as long as I knew him, for + he seemed never to forget it. After dressing it by the light + of the moon assisted by a torch, we retired. On viewing the + plump body next morning Field exclaimed, "That's another + God-send!" and notwithstanding his opinion that wolf + could not be eaten, he found that wolf to be the best food we + had eaten since we had assisted Walker and his tribe in eating + the mountain sheep.<br> + </p> + <p>The French may eat their horses, but I do not want more + horse flesh. The old mule made fair but quite coarse beef. + While out on this little pleasure(?) excursion we ate horse, + mule, wolf, wild-cat, mountain sheep, rose seed buds, + raw-hide, a squirrel, fatty matter from the sockets of the + mule's eyes and the marrow from his bones; but that ham of + wild-cat was certainly the most detestable thing that I ever + undertook to eat. The marrow from the mule's bones was a real + luxury.<br> + </p> + <p>We now had a pretty good stock of food, such as it was, but + not enough to carry us through the winter on full rations; + therefore we determined to try to add to it by hunting. One + was to go out and hunt while the other would remain at home: + we now had undisputed possession of the fort and it was our + home. Field took the first day's outing while I occupied my + time in drying and smoking meat. Late in the evening he + returned, tired and worn out, having seen nothing worth + shooting.<br> + </p> + <p>Next day came my turn to hunt. I took a lunch, as he had + done, consisting of jerked mule. I did not tell him so, but I + had determined to make an excursion up the river to a point + where we had seen some fresh trails and deer tracks some days + before. When I was putting up my lunch my friend intimated + that I was taking a very large amount for one lunch, but I + told him that I might stay out late and that I did not intend + to starve. I went, stayed all day, all night, and part of the + next day, and returned as he had done, tired and discouraged, + not having seen anything worth bringing in. In the evening of + the first day out I found a trail which appeared to have been + used daily by deer going to and from the river.<br> + </p> + <p>It occurred to me that they might go out early in the + morning, so I secreted myself within gun shot of the trail + behind an old, moss-covered log where I slept comfortably; and + when it was light enough in the morning to see a deer, I + leveled my gun across the log in a position commanding the + trail and waited and watched until nine o'clock, but nothing + came upon that pathway that morning. After getting tired of + watching and waiting I went down to the trail where, to my + astonishment, I found the fresh tracks of a large bear which + must have passed by that way while I was sleeping. As a rule I + do not like to be treated discourteously, but in this instance + I felt glad that this stranger had passed me by.<br> + </p> + <p>On arriving at the fort late in the evening I found my + friend in a terrible state of mental excitement. He said that + he had not slept a minute during the whole of the night + before. He had filled the door of his room with rails, and + sharpened one end of a long stick, which he intended to use if + necessary as a weapon of defence. When I arrived he was again + filling the door with rails. I had the gun, pistol and big + knife with me so this was his only means of defence. He said + he would not stay alone another night for all the gold in + California.<br> + </p> + <p>I was much discouraged by our failures in hunting, and + after a lengthy discussion we decided to make another attempt + to cross the mountains and escape from what then seemed to us + certain starvation. This was Thursday night and we set Monday + as the time for starting. By Saturday night everything was in + readiness for the start and Sunday we devoted to Bible + reading, for we each still had a pocket Bible. As much of the + flesh of the wolf and the lamented mule as we thought we could + carry had been thoroughly jerked, and finding that we would + not be overburdened by it, we economized by roasting and + eating little scraps of flesh, the marrow from the bones, and + even the head of the mule was roasted, the fragments of flesh + scraped off and eaten, and Field found a rich fatty substance + in behind the eyes, which he ate.<br> + </p> + <p>We had a canteen in which our powder was carried, but the + powder was nearly all gone so we emptied it and used the + canteen to carry water in. Early Monday morning we loaded + ourselves, mostly with jerked mule and wolf, leaving many + useful things behind, bid adieu to Fort Uinta and took up our + line of march rather reluctantly.<br> + </p> + <p>My companion was not strong and we soon found it expedient + for me to take on part of his burden. We rested often and yet + long before night he became so tired that we had to go into + camp. Most of the day we had traveled on an old deserted + trail. The nights being cold we were under the necessity of + keeping up a fire as we had left our blankets at the fort. The + next morning we made an early start and rested often. At about + noon we found good shade and water, and the sun being quite + hot we stopped and rested in the shade for more than three + hours, then trudged on till nearly night when we found water, + and plenty of old dry timber for fuel and camped. Field + expressed a wish that he had his old mule again, and I + reminded him that he had a portion of it left in his knapsack, + and that turn about was fair play: as the mule had carried him + for a long time when he was unable to walk he should not + object to carrying a portion of the mule now; whereupon he + again plainly intimated that he thought I was a d---d fool. I + kept up the fire and he slept until morning.<br> + </p> + <p>Another day was passed without any unusual occurrence; we + traveled and ate at the same time as usual. Another day of + pretty hard travel over sandy plains and rocky hills brought + us to the foot of the mountain where we had plenty of good + water and an abundance of fuel. A little sprinkle of rain + early in the evening was the first we had seen since the + memorable night after Field had eaten the little red + berries.<br> + </p> + <p>Early Saturday morning we filled our canteen with water and + started up the mountain. I had been carrying most of the jerk, + but the stock was running down quite rapidly. My companions + bag now being almost empty, and as he had little else to carry + while I had the gun and some other things, including his heavy + overcoat, I divided the jerk, putting about half of it into + his sack. All day long we were climbing the mountain. Late in + the afternoon I was several rods ahead of Field when he called + to me to stop: I did so and when he came up he appeared to be + a little cross and insisted that we were not traveling in the + direction formerly agreed upon. I requested him to let me see + the little compass which he had in his pocket, and on + examining it he found that he was mistaken; whereupon he + muttered something which I thought was "swear + words," and then we went marching on. In a little while + we were within the old snow limits where we found large bodies + of old icy looking snow in places shaded by trees and rocks, + and a little before dark went into camp. We gathered some old + dry timber and made a large fire, then some green fir limbs + for a bed. When I began to prepare our bed on one side of the + flaming logs, to my surprise Field began to prepare one on the + other side of the fire. Neither had spoken since the + occurrence of the little unpleasantness in the afternoon about + the course of travel. Mutely each took his side of the + fire.<br> + </p> + <p>We had always slept together except when he was sick and + the night I had left him alone at the fort. Some time in the + night I became thirsty and got up and procured some snow, put + it in our only tin cup and set it on some live coals to melt + and went to sleep. The snow melted, the water evaporated, the + solder melted and left the tin. While I slept, my dumb friend + woke up thirsty, took the tin cup, filled it with snow and put + it on coals. The snow melted and the water run out on the + coals; his tongue let loose and he then denounced me as a + knave, an ass, a fool, an unregenerate heathen, and what else + I don't want to remember. I woke up alarmed and did not at + first fully understand what had created the storm, but after + having the bottomless cup dashed at my head I realized the + situation, and began to try to apologize and explain the + unavoidable and unfortunate circumstance; but no explanation + would satisfy his now thoroughly "Johnny Bull" + temper. After this little nocturnal disturbance had subsided, + I, on my bed of fir branches with my feet towards the fire, + soon fell into a sound sleep and knew nothing more of the + world until the sun was shining. Whether or not my friend had + cooled off I did not inquire; but I do know that there was an + unusual coldness between us, for neither spoke to the other + until about twelve o'clock and then, as will appear, our + conversation was very short.<br> + </p> + <p>As we did not rise until late no delay was made, but when + each had his bag on his back and a nugget of jerk in his hand + we started up the side of the mountain as quiet as two deaf + mutes. There was no water to be had; our camp kettle had been + left at the fort, and through my stupidity the cup had become + useless, therefore we were obliged to eat the icy snow or + endure the thirst. No new snow had yet fallen in this high + altitude although it was now nearing the end of October. These + mountains were then heavily covered with pine and fir but the + timber was not large. In some places where the snow had melted + away, short green grass was found quite close to great banks + of snow.<br> + </p> + <p>At about twelve o'clock we reached the summit of the great + Uinta range, and I, being a little in advance of my still mute + companion, halted to take a survey of the field before me. The + top of the range here is bare of timber and there was no snow. + When Field came up I broke the silence which had lasted since + the little unpleasantness of the night before, by suggesting + that we attempt to cross the snow-covered range of mountains + which now appeared north of us and probably fifty miles away, + through what appeared to be a gap or low place in the great + range of mountains. He replied, "You may go that way if + you want to, but I am going this way," pointing in + another direction and quickly started off at an angle of about + 45 degrees to the right, or directly north-east. I also + started immediately, and when we were a few rods apart I said, + "Good-by; we may not meet again very soon." He + replied "Good-by," and within a few minutes we were + out of sight, and in a very short time beyond hailing + distance.<br> + </p> + <p>This was the last I saw or heard of him until after each of + us had undergone many more hardships, so I will now drop my + friend but will hereafter devote a chapter to him, and give + you an account of his experience as he afterwards gave it to + me, detailing an account of many most interesting incidents. + Fortunately we had divided the jerk, for nothing was said at + this sudden and unexpected parting about anything which either + had in his possession. I had an idea when I bade him good-by + that he would soon turn about and follow me.<br> + </p> + <p>After the unceremonious parting I immediately began to + descend the north side of the mountain which was very rough, + rocky and steep; but down, down, down I went into a deep, dark + cañon where I slept on the leaves under a fir tree, + after having taken some landmarks. When it was light enough to + see the objects I had noted to guide me, I set out and spent + the day in crossing over hills and through deep cañons. + In the evening I arrived at the foot of the range of mountains + which I had seen from the point of our parting. The sun + disappeared, dark clouds began to float over the mountains and + it was evident that a storm was approaching.<br> + </p> + <p>While it was yet light enough I took some landmarks or + guiding points; and it was well I did so, for on the following + morning when I woke I found it snowing quietly but heavily, + and before it was light enough for me to see my guiding + objects there must have been six or more inches of new snow on + the ground beyond my snug retreat under a sheltering pine. + When it was light enough I rose from my comfortable bed, took + my bearings as best I could without a compass and started up + the mountain through the rapidly accumulating bed of snow. The + snow continued to fall nearly all day, and before night it was + more than a foot deep.<br> + </p> + <p>All day long I struggled through a dense forest. Some time + in the forenoon I crossed the fresh trail of a large herd of + elk which forcibly reminded me that my sack was almost empty, + and I vainly wished that one of these wild creatures might + come in my way, but I did not dare to follow the herd with the + uncertainty of killing one, and the certainty of losing my way + this dark, snowy day. In order to maintain my course during + such dark days I was under the necessity of looking ahead and + observing trees or other objects in my line of travel.<br> + </p> + <p>That night I, as usual, slept under a pine tree where there + was no snow. I saw no sign of fire in either of these ranges + of mountains, nor did I see any signs of Indians on my trip + over these two ranges. The next day as I approached the top of + the mountain I found the timber much smaller, and mostly pine. + There is much fertile land in some of the valleys between the + two great ranges of mountains.<br> + </p> + <p>Early on the following morning I arrived at the bald, + snow-covered summit. On my right and on my left were high, + untimbered, snow-covered peaks. From this point I could + overlook a vast territory extending over many hills, valleys, + and smaller mountains where there was no snow; in fact, the + snow only extended a few miles down the steep sides of the + great range. As a rule there is more timber on the north than + on the south side of mountains west of the Rockies; but it was + the reverse here, for there was little timber on the north + side of this range.<br> + </p> + <p>One more day's tramping brought me down into a large barren + plain where I gathered some dry weeds for a bed, and slept, + without food or water; the last bit of the mule or wolf, I + know not which, I had eaten during the afternoon. I had had + very little jerk for the last two or three days, and began to + wish that I had another horse, mule, or even a wolf. For many + days I had seen no living thing except when I looked into a + small glass which I carried in my pocket, and then only saw a + familiar shadow.<br> + </p> + <p>I spent another day without food, but had plenty of water; + another night on a bed of green brush beside a good fire. The + next day was bright and sunny, quite a contrast to the gloomy + days I had spent in the mountains. For want of food I was + becoming quite weak and was not able to travel as fast as + usual. During the early part of the day I saw some tracks of + an unshod horse, which renewed my courage and hope of + redemption; and at about two o'clock in the afternoon I saw + some dark spots on the plain a long distance away, but almost + in the direction I was going. Hoping that these objects might + be living creatures, I hurried on for a time, then sat down + and after having watched them for a time I found that they + changed positions and that satisfied me to a moral certainty + that they were living creatures, but what I could not tell. + They might be horses, cattle, elk, deer, antelope or buffalo; + but no matter what, I must hurry on and try to reach them + before night.<br> + </p> + <p>Late in the evening I determined that they were horses but + could not yet tell whether they belonged to whites or Indians, + or were wild. As I approached them they stopped grazing and + started toward me, but soon disappeared in a deep gulch + between us which I had not noticed before. On arriving at the + edge of the gulch or narrow valley I saw the horses in the + vicinity of about fifteen or twenty wigwams which were all in + a row on the bank of a little creek that ran through the + gulch. Many Indians were sitting outside of their lodges, the + weather being warm.<br> + </p> + <p>On first sight of the village, being not more than 200 + yards away, my heart fluttered just a little, not knowing + whether the savages would scalp me or not; but, + notwithstanding my natural cowardice, I at once determined to + "beard the lion in his den," and walked as boldly as + I could up to the lower end of the row of wigwams. Within a + few feet of the nearest one three young bucks met me and + seemed to be anxious to know whence I came and whither I was + going; whether right down from Heaven, and if so what was my + mission. They seemed as much surprised at my sudden appearance + as I was on coming so suddenly upon them. My first and most + important business was to determine whether they would give me + something to eat, or eat me.<br> + </p> + <p>As the men, women, and children began to gather around me I + heard some one half way up the line of lodges call out saying + something which I did not understand, but on looking that way + saw a man beckoning to me, as I thought, when the young men + motioned for me to move on up the line. On arriving at the + place indicated I found myself in the presence of one whom I + then suspected, and afterwards found to be the chief, who + extended to his royal right hand and greeted me in a most + courteous and polite manner, and then with a graceful wave of + his hand and a slight bow indicated that I should precede him + at the low open door into his Royal Palace where he very + politely introduced me to his wife who proved to be a + sensible, clever, courteous woman. She soon prepared some + thing for me to eat, and after I had finished my supper an + Indian brought in two pistols and wanted me to take the cap + tube from one and put it into the other, which I soon + accomplished. He was much pleased, went out, and soon returned + with ten or more pounds of elk meat which he tendered to me as + compensation for my work, but the chief objected, and + insisted, as I understood him, that he had plenty and that I + was his guest, but finally consented for me to accept part of + the meat. I gave him to understand that I wanted to go to Fort + Bridger.<br> + </p> + <p>A case of nice new blankets was opened, as it appeared to + me, for my especial benefit. The chief, his lady, two sons + almost grown, two or three wolfish looking dogs which forcibly + reminded me of Field's terrible scare, and myself made up the + number of lodgers in that mansion that night. Late that night + some warriors who had been out on a campaign came home, and + learning that there was a stranger within the gates came to + the king's palace to see him, and also to report that they had + discovered some white barbarians in the vicinity who had dared + to enter his domain without a special permit, and that they + had sent a message to his highness informing him that they had + a good assortment of blankets, cutlery, pins, needles, beads, + etc., which his people might need or desire, and also a + limited amount of "fire-water," and that they would + be pleased to receive his order for anything he might + desire.<br> + </p> + <p>The fact of the presence of these pale-faces in the + vicinity was at once communicated to me, and early on the + following morning I was informed that if it was my desire to + cut short my stay at the palace, the king would take great + pleasure in furnishing me means of conveyance, a proper + escort, and a reliable guide who would safely conduct me to + the camp of the accommodating merchants or Indian traders, + (but, in fact, Indian robbers.) Notwithstanding my reluctance + in leaving the society of the noble ruler and his people I + most readily accepted his generous offer, and after breakfast, + which consisted of elk meat and tobacco root in a combination + stew which was very palatable, a fine steed with a good + Mexican saddle and bridle was at the door. My escort, + consisting of four mounted warriors, was ready, and after + bidding my good friends farewell, I with some assistance + mounted my charger and we were all off on a full run, up and + down hill and across valley, at what seemed to me a fearful + rate.<br> + </p> + <p>In less than two hours we entered the camp of the traders + at full speed, dismounted, and found one man, a long Jake from + Illinois, who could speak English. He had two wives, (squaws,) + and several children which he claimed, but some of them were + quite dark. His name was John Smith; not a very uncommon one. + He was a very clever man, about 35 years old, was not a + Mormon, but had taken the women in order to become popular + with the Indians and to improve his opportunities for + trade.<br> + </p> + <p>After getting something to eat, and learning something, + through Smith, of my adventures, my escort made ready to + return to their camp. Their trip, as Smith told me, was made + solely for my accommodation and now I had nothing with which + to compensate them; but as they were about to leave I took a + large "bandanna," the only one I had left, and tied + it around the neck of the chief's son, he being one of the + clever escorts. He at first refused to accept it, but when + Smith told him that I desired him to take it as a token of + regard, he accepted it with an expression of thanks, and after + I had bidden them all good-bye, they rode away as rapidly as + we had come. I will always hold that chief and his people in + kindly remembrance.<br> + </p> + <p>All of the other white men with Smith were French, and all + had plenty of wives (squaws) and numerous slaves. The wives + were not slaves, but they had slaves all around them. The + whole tribe traveled about and lived much as other tribes did, + only much better, for they lived by trading while the others + lived by hunting and fishing. In this camp I ate bread for the + first time in many weeks. At the end of three days after my + arrival here a caravan was ready to start for Fort Bridger for + winter supplies for the traders. I was furnished with a good + horse and saddle, and Smith, one of the Frenchmen, five + slaves, 20 horses, and myself made up the caravan, and on the + evening of the third day we reached the fort where I was very + kindly received.<br> + </p> + <p>Smith was a large man, had a good head, and some + cultivation and apparent refinement, and treated his women and + children well. He said he had been to his old home in Illinois + since he had entered upon this kind of life, but was not + contented there and soon returned to his Indian friends. He + and those Frenchmen were as generous and hospitable as old + Southern planters, and their kindness to me will not be + forgotten while my memory lasts.<br> + </p> + <p>I was well treated at the fort which is 116 miles from the + point where the seven dug up the little flat-boat from its + sandy bed on the fifth day of August, just three mouths + before, since which I had undergone many hardships, took many + fearful risks, and traveled more than a thousand miles, far + enough to have taken me from Green River to San Francisco.<br> + </p> + <p>On the morning of the seventh day of November I started + with a Government train for Salt Lake City where I arrived on + the fifteenth. I soon found a home with a prominent Mormon, a + Scotchman named Archie Gardner, living in the fifth ward, on + Mill Creek, one of the many small streams coming down from the + mountains east of the city. Mr. Gardner was a clever gentleman + about 45 years old, had a saw-mill up in, the mountains, and + was then building a flour mill only a few rods from his + dwelling. I assisted him in completing the little flour mill + and in attending it during the winter. Mr. Gardner had three + wives, all living in one house, but occupying separate rooms + at night. I usually attended the little mill until midnight, + and Gardner made it part of my duty to go to his house and + call him. He usually told me where I could find him, but not + always, so at times I was under the necessity of rapping at + more than one door before I found him.<br> + </p> + <p>He had the largest house in the ward, and the religious + services were held there by Bishop Johnson who also acted as + Justice of the Peace in that ward. Gardner's family all ate at + the same table over which the first wife presided. She was, + indeed, mistress of the house, the other wives treating her + with great respect, and all were, to all outward appearance, + quite friendly. Gardner bestowed much attention on his first + wife, though I always suspected that he was just a little more + fond of the youngest one, and I did not blame him much for she + manifested strong affection for him even in the presence of + the others, and yet there was no outward manifestation of + jealousy.<br> + </p> + <p>The second, or the one I will call the second because she + was in age between the others, and was the mother of the third + or youngest, a widowed mother and her daughter having been + sealed to Gardner at the same time, the first wife having + given her consent and standing with them at the triple + matrimonial altar, and then and there joining in the sacred + ceremony. As I was about to say, the second wife seemed to be + pleased at the manifestation of affection for the common + husband by the youngest wife, and No. 1 would in a + good-humored way say:—"My, Annie, don't be so + demonstrative in the presence of other people," when the + husband would laugh and go and kiss No. 1.<br> + </p> + <p>Gardner spent most of his leisure time, particularly during + the day and evening, in his first wife's apartments with her + and her children. He was a very religious man, and always had + family prayers before retiring at night, and all persons about + the house were expected to join, at least formally, in this + service. The use of profane language was not allowed in or + about the house.<br> + </p> + <p>Many of the higher church officers were entertained at + Gardner's house and table, among whom were Brigham Young, + George A. Smith, Heber C. Kimble, George Taylor, and Parley P. + Pratt, with all of whom I formed some acquaintance. Brigham + was a dignified, clever gentleman, not austere but kind and + affable. Kimble was also a nice, genteel, genial, redheaded + gentleman. Smith was a heavy man with a very large abdomen, + dark hair full beard, exceedingly jovial and apparently always + happy. Pratt was a small, rather slim, quick and athletic man, + rather austere, refined, active and energetic. Taylor was a + large man, highly intellectual, and rather unsocial. Kimble + was my favorite notwithstanding the fact that he had fifteen + wives, mostly young and handsome, all in one house, and my + impression is that none of them had any children. I think it + was conceded that his was the finest harem in Utah. He called + me his young Gentile, was very kind and affable, but he never + invited me to inspect his harem.<br> + </p> + <p>About the first of December, 1849, Field arrived in Salt + Lake City, and I will allude to a little matter in which he + was concerned, after which I will give you a short account of + his trip from the time we parted company until he arrived in + Salt Lake as he afterwards gave it to me. Soon after he + arrived in the City of the Saints he heard of another who had + recently arrived from the south and that he was located in the + fifth ward on Mill creek at the house of one Gardner, and at + which house he soon arrived.<br> + </p> + <p>After staying with me for two or three days he found + employment in the family of the Apostle John Taylor. The + family consisted of seven wives living in seven different + houses. How many children there were I never knew, but there + was one wife who did not have any. She was a fine specimen of + English beauty. Taylor's women were nearly all English. It was + the business of my friend to cut wood, and do chores generally + for the Taylor family living in seven different places at the + same time. Taylor was in Europe that winter looking after the + interest of the church, and possibly after a few more wives, + and consequently could not, in person, attend to all of the + necessities of the seven branches of his family. In his daily + rounds looking after the seven wood-piles and other little + matters appertaining to the comfort of the family in so many + places Field happened to come in contact with the English + beauty, and the result was, mutual love at first sight, + notwithstanding the fact that this woman had passed, and taken + all of the solemn vows of the Lym house with the Apostle and + his six other wives.<br> + </p> + <p>I do not think that my English friend had lost one iota of + the fond recollection of his long since dead English wife, the + picture of whom he still carried near his heart; but, + nevertheless, he and this seventh wife of the noted Apostle + fell heels over head in love. Field, as you know, was a well + developed, good-looking, intelligent man of forty. The woman + was well developed, good-looking, and as smart as a + steel-trap, and both being English I was not at all surprised + at their mutual admiration and infatuation, nor did I blame + them much. I was intrusted with many closely-sealed envelopes + which I carried from one to the other. With my feeble + assistance they tried to devise some method by which they + might escape from the city before the Apostle should return + home; but the Danites were always on the alert, and they well + knew that detection by the Danites of an attempt to get away + together would lead to certain death to him, and if not to her + she would certainly have been returned to her polygamous state + of bondage. Spring came with little hope of escape, and they + reluctantly parted with the mutual understanding that, if + possible, she would make her escape and go to Sacramento where + he promised to keep his address. Ten months after the parting + they had not met yet, and if they ever did it was after I had + lost all further knowledge of him.<br> + </p> + <p>Mormon morals, exclusive of polygamy, are very good. I + never saw a drunken man in Salt Lake City, and heard very + little profane language there. The people were industrious and + seemed happy. Their hospitality rivaled that of the old + Southern planters, and their charity was equal to that of + other Christians.<br> + </p> + <p>I will now go back to the place where Field and I separated + on the mountain top and give you a short statement as he gave + it to me, and while some things may border on the miraculous, + and seem somewhat incredible, I do not question the truth of + his statements. When we parted so unexpectedly he had about + half of the jerked wolf and mule combined. I went north while + he bore off in a northeasterly direction, and after traveling + for three days came to the river at a point above where we + lost our flat-boat. He struggled on up the river without road + or trail, and nothing to guide him except the little compass + which he still carried in his pocket.<br> + </p> + <p>Two days more and his last bit of jerk was gone, starvation + began to stare him in the face once more. He saw signs of + Indians having crossed his pathless course which gave him + renewed courage. Soon after starting out next morning he was + delighted to see a pony in the distance grazing, and on coming + up to it found one of its front legs broken. This, he said was + another God-send. The poor pony seemed to fear him. It was + probably an Indian pony, had its leg broken and was left to + die. He followed it for some time and finally got close to it + and fired his revolver at its chest and wounded it, but it + then left him with the blood flowing from its wound. After + resting for a time he followed on and soon found it lying + down, but not dead. He told me how innocent and helpless it + appeared, and looked at him as if pleading with him not to + inflict any more pain; but he felt that his life was in a + balance with its, and after a little meditation he put the + revolver to its forehead and ended its life and suffering. + Then came the usual process of skinning, cutting up and + jerking which took the balance of that day and part of the + next.<br> + </p> + <p>Eight days more and he was again starving. On the ninth he + arrived at the spot where we had dug up the little ferry-boat + which carried the seven adventurers far down the river more + than three very long dreary months before. Snow now covered + the entire country, and all emigrants had long since gone by. + His strength was failing fast but it would not do to linger + there, so he arose and was about to start when he saw a poor + old ox slowly coming towards him, and when it had come up near + to him he discovered a wolf not far behind which seemed to be + following the ox, but it soon turned and went away. Night was + coming on and he was very hungry. Something must be done. The + last cartridge had been exploded in killing the poor, broken + legged Indian pony, and the revolver was no longer of use. The + ox, though feeble, was probably yet stronger than the starving + man.<br> + </p> + <p>Field feared that he was not able to catch the ox by the + horns and hold it until he could cut its throat, so the next + plan was to get hold of the animal's tail with one hand, and + with the big knife in the other cut his hamstrings so as to + disable him, and then cut his throat. The ox seemed fond of + being rubbed and petted, so after a little time a firm hold on + the tail was secured, and the big knife vigorously applied, + but it was so very dull that he could not sever the tough old + tendons. After sawing with the dull knife and being literally + dragged for some distance, he became so much exhausted that he + was obliged to relinquish his hold and see the excited old ox + disappear.<br> + </p> + <p>In almost complete despair Field spent the night beside a + fire under one of those large cottonwoods which I have no + doubt you will remember even though it is now more than forty + years since you saw them. He rose early next morning and + started out on the well beaten road towards the Golden West, + but had only gone a few hundred yards when he was agreeably + surprised to again behold the old ox approaching him, but so + much exhausted that it could scarcely walk. The same, or some + other, wolf was near by, and had probably followed the poor + old ox all night. When the ox came close to Field the wolf + growled and again turned away as on the evening before. After + the wolf had left the ox seemed to be relieved.<br> + </p> + <p>It then occurred to the starving emigrant that he had a + sharp razor in his "kitt" with which he knew he + could cut those tough tendons, provided he could get another + hold on that tail. Field, as you probably remember, always + kept his face cleanly shaved. Even while we were starving he + would shave almost every day. The ox was tired and worn out + and so was Field; but he got the razor ready and soon had hold + of that tail again. Off went the ox, the keen razor was + applied, soon the tendons parted and down went the ox. But + only half the victory was won, for the ox would raise up on + his front feet and show fight; but after resting awhile the + would-be victor rushed up, caught the poor beast by the horns, + pushed him over on his side, held him down and cut his + throat.<br> + </p> + <p>After a long, much needed rest he cut out a piece of the + poor beef, broiled and ate it, and then spent the remainder of + the day in hunting out the small, lean muscles that still + remained between the skin and bones of the poor old ox. The + poor beef was jerked and put into the sack which on the + following morning was thrown upon the back of its owner, and + from which he fed for the next six days, at the end of which + he arrived at Fort Bridger. From there he soon obtained a + passage for Salt Lake City, arriving there on the second day + of December, seventeen days after I had reached there, and + finding me as before stated.<br> + </p> + <p>Some time in the winter we formed an acquaintance of a + gentleman named Jesse Morgan, a Gentile, who had left Illinois + in the spring of 1849 for California, but for some cause had + been delayed and obliged to winter in the city of the Latter + Day Saints. Morgan had a wife, a little child, a wagon and two + yoke of oxen, but no food nor money. Field and I arranged to + furnish food for all for the trip from there to Sacramento, + and assist in camp duties, drive the team, &c. We made the + trip together and arrived in Sacramento in good condition on + the fourth day of July, 1850, and pitched our tent under a + large oak tree where the State Capitol now stands.<br> + </p> + <p>I spent five months with a wholesale grocery and miners + supply firm, Elder and Smith, Fourth and J streets, + Sacramento, and three months in the mines as a drummer, or + solicitor and collector for the same firm. I returned to + Sacramento and was almost ready to start home when the Scots + River excitement broke out. I then went to the mines on + Trinity River and associated myself in mining with Hiram + Gould, a young Presbyterian clergyman who had laid aside the + "cloth" for the time and engaged in mining. I + remained in the mines until July fourth, 1851, exactly one + year from the time I entered Sacramento, when I started home + by way of Nicaragua. In due time, after an interesting trip, I + arrived home and again entered upon the study of my chosen + profession, graduated from an honorable college, and am now, + as you know, practicing my profession on the sea shore.<br> + </p> + <p>M.S. MCMAHON.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=70 alt="" src="images/ch_12.png" width=70 + border=0><br> + <br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-47487"></a>CHAPTER XIII.<br> + </h3> + STORY OF THE JAYHAWKERS.<br> + </div> + <p>In the foregoing chapters describing the trip across the + deserts and mountains, the author has had occasion many times + to refer to the "Jayhawkers." Their history is in + many respects no less remarkable and intensely interesting + than that of his own party. The author has therefore collected + many notes and interviews with prominent members and presents + herewith the only written history of their travels.<br> + </p> + <p>The little train afterward known by this name was made up + in the state of Illinois in 1849, of industrious, enterprising + young men who were eager to see and explore the new country + then promising gold to those who sought. The young men were + from Knoxville, Galesburg and other towns. Not all were + influenced by the desire for gold. It was said that California + had a milder climate and that pleasant homes could there be + made, and the long, cold winter avoided.<br> + </p> + <p>They placed some of the best men in position to manage for + the whole. The outfit was placed on a steam-boat and + transported to Kanesville, on the Missouri River above Council + Bluffs. Some of the company went with the goods while others + bought teams and wagons in Western Missouri and drove to the + appointed place. Kanesville was a small Mormon camp, while + Council Bluffs was a trading post of a few log cabins on the + river bank, inhabited mostly by Indians. There was no regular + ferry at either place, and our party secured a log raft which + they used to get their wagons and provisions across, making + the oxen swim.<br> + </p> + <p>They asked all the questions they could think of from + everyone who pretended to know anything about the great + country to the west of them, for it seemed a great undertaking + to set out into the land they could see stretching out before + them across the river. Other parties bound the same way, also + arrived and joined them. They chose a guide who claimed to + have been over the road before. When all were gathered + together the guide told them that they were about to enter an + Indian country, and that the dusky residents did not always + fancy the idea of strangers richer than themselves passing + through, and sometimes showed out some of the bad traits the + Indians had been said to possess. It would therefore be better + to organize and travel systematically. He would divide the + company into divisions and have each division choose a + captain, and the whole company unite in adopting some rules + and laws which they would all agree to observe. This + arrangement was satisfactorily accomplished, and they moved + out in a sort of military style. And then they launched out on + the almost endless western prairie, said then to be a thousand + miles wide, containing few trees, and generally unknown.<br> + </p> + <p>These Illinois boys were young and full of mirth and fun + which was continually overflowing. They seemed to think they + were to be on a sort of every day picnic and bound to make + life as merry and happy as it could be. One of the boys was Ed + Doty who was a sort of model traveler in this line. A camp + life suited him; he could drive an ox team, cook a meal of + victuals, turn a pan of flap-jacks with a flop, and possessed + many other frontier accomplishments. One day when Doty was + engaged in the duty of cooking flap-jacks another frolicsome + fellow came up and took off the cook's hat and commenced going + through the motions of a barber giving his customer a vigorous + shampoo, saying:—"<i>I am going to make a Jayhawker + out of you, old boy</i>." Now it happened at the election + for captain in this division that Ed Doty was chosen captain, + and no sooner was the choice declared than the boys took the + newly elected captain on their shoulders and carried him + around the camp introducing him as the <i>King Bird of the + Jayhawkers</i>. So their division was afterwards known as The + Jayhawkers, but whether the word originated with them, and + John Brown forgot to give them credit, or whether it was some + old frontier word used in sport on the occasion is more than I + will undertake to say; however the boys felt proud of their + title and the organization has been kept up to this day by the + survivors, as will be related further on.<br> + </p> + <p>The first few days they got along finely and began to lose + all feeling of danger and to become rather careless in their + guard duty. When the cattle had eaten enough and lain down, + the guards would sometimes come into camp and go to sleep, + always finding the stock all right in the morning and no enemy + or suspicious persons in sight. But one bright morning no + cattle were in sight, which was rather strange as the country + was all prairie. They went out to look, making a big circuit + and found no traces till they came to the river, when they + found tracks upon the bank and saw some camps across the + river, a mile or so away. Doty had a small spy glass and by + rigging up a tripod of small sticks to hold it steady they + scanned the camps pretty closely and decided that there were + too many oxen for the wagons in sight.<br> + </p> + <p>Some of the smartest of them stripped off their clothes and + started to swim the stream, but landed on the same side they + started from. Captain Doty studied the matter a little and + then set out himself, being a good swimmer, and by a little + shrewd management and swimming up stream when the current was + strongest, soon got across to where he could touch bottom and + shouted to the others to do the same. Soon all the swimmers + were across.<br> + </p> + <p>They could now see that there were two trains on that side + and that the farther one had already begun to move and was + about a mile in advance of the nearest one, Doty said + something must be done, and although they only were clothed in + undershirts they approached the nearest camp and were handed + some overalls for temporary use. The men in this camp on + hearing about the missing oxen said the fellows in the forward + train went over and got them, for, as they said there were no + wagons in sight and they must be strays. He said the forward + train was from Tennessee, and that they had some occasion to + doubt their honesty and had refused to travel with them any + further. They said they were all old Missourians, and did not + want other people's property and if the boys found their + cattle with the Tenneseans, and wanted any help to get them + back again to call on them, and putting in some good strong + swear words for emphasis.<br> + </p> + <p>The boys, barefooted and with only overalls and shirts, + started after the moving train which they called to a halt + when overtaken. The coarse grass was pretty hard to hurry + through, clothed as they were. The train men were pretty gruff + and wanted to know what was wanted. Capt. Doty very + emphatically told them he could see some of his oxen in their + train, and others in the herd, and he proposed to have them + all back again. The Jayhawker boys were unarmed but were in a + fighting mood and determined to have the stock at all hazards, + and if not peaceably, war might commence. The boys saw that + the two trains were of about equal strength, and if worse came + to worst they could go back and get their guns and men and + come over in full force after their property, and they were + assured the Missourians would help them and a combination of + forces would give them a majority and they could not be beaten + by the Tennessee crowd. There was a good deal of talk, but + finally when Doty demanded that their cattle be unyoked and + the others seperated from the herd, they yielded and gave them + all their stock, some seventy head.<br> + </p> + <p>The Missourians had come up and heard the talk, and some of + them went back and helped drive the cattle to the river, and + deal out some double shotted thunder against the biggest + scamps they had come across. It was quite a job to get the + cattle across the river. They would go in a little way and + then circle round and round like a circus, making no progress. + They finally put a rope on one of them and a man led him as + far as he could, which was more than half way, and although + they landed a good ways down stream, they got them all across + safely, left their borrowed overalls in the hands of their + friends, with a thousand thanks for valuable assistance, and + plunged into the swift running Platte, and swam back again to + the northern side. They drove the straggling oxen back to camp + with a sense of great satisfaction, and in turn received the + praise of their friends who said that Ed Doty was the best + Jayhawker of the border.<br> + </p> + <p>This was the first unpleasantness and they were afterwards + more cautious and stood guard all night, watching closely all + the time, both night and day, for for any signs of danger. + Thus in time they reached Salt Lake, rather late in the + season, but safe and sound, having escaped cholera or other + disease, and in good spirits to surmount any further + difficulties which might be met.<br> + </p> + <p>When the Jayhawkers reached Salt Lake it was found that it + was not safe to try to go the regular northern route to + California, as they were advised by those who seemed to know, + as they might be snowed in on the Sierra Nevada Mountains and + perish. The Mormons told them that the snow often fell there + twenty feet deep, and some other stories likely to deter them + from making the attempt. They also told them of a route + farther south by which they could come into California at Los + Angeles, or they could remain in Salt Lake until May when it + would be safe to try the mountain route again. After listening + to the talk of the mountaineers who claimed to have been over + the route and to know all about it, and camping some time to + rest and learn all they could, they finally decided on taking + the southern route. One Mormon told them of a place where they + could make a cut-off and save five hundred miles, and, if they + would follow his instructions, they would find the route fully + as good as the one usually traveled which was not much better + than a trail. The cut-off was so instilled into their minds + that they had great confidence in the report and talked very + favorably of taking it.<br> + </p> + <p>The man Williams made for them a map of the proposed route + and explained it to them and others who had gathered at Salt + Lake, and from the map they could see how much was to be + gained in time and distance by taking that route. A month or + two of travel was indeed something to gain, and as the roads + seemed similar in quality the reasoning was very plausible The + map explained all the watering places and favorable things but + said nothing about a desert, and as there was no one to tell + them any unfavorable side to this plan there were many who + quite concluded to go this way, and among those who did so + were the Jayhawkers, and the "Williams Short Route" + was freely talked about as a settled thing by them.<br> + </p> + <p>They now set about preparing to move. They sold, traded, + and bought oxen till they had the best and fattest teams in + Salt Lake Valley; selected good provisions, and plenty of them + so as to be safe in case of delay, and contended that nothing + could stop them in a country where but little snow could be, + and water was as plentiful as shown on the map. They wanted to + reach the gold mines and this was the shortest route and even + if it was still considerably longer than the northern way they + said they would rather be moving along and thus gain time than + to so long in camp with nothing to do by which they could earn + a cent. There were here in Salt Lake ten times as many men as + could find employment, and Brigham's saints would be pretty + sure to get all of the odd jobs to the exclusion of the + heretics.<br> + </p> + <p>To bring the matter to a determination a paper was drawn up + for those to sign who wanted to go the southern route and it + was pretty generally signed. The Mormon elder, John Hunt, was + consulted, and as he seemed to know the general southern route + better than any one else, he was prevailed upon to guide the + train through on the old Spanish Trail. This had never been + used as a wagon road, but he thought it could be without much + difficulty, and he said if they could secure him a fair sized + train he would go and conduct them through for ten dollars a + wagon. This proposition was accepted after some consideration, + and all who wished to do so were given permission to join the + train. In a few days there were one hundred and seven wagons + enlisted for this route, including seven Mormons bound for San + Bernardino.<br> + </p> + <p>Preparations for the trip now began in good earnest, and + the Saints were liberally patronized in purchase of flour and + meat which were the principal things they had to sell. As + their several wagons were loaded they moved out in small lots + to the south to keep in good fresh feed for their animals, and + to move on slowly till all were ready, when they would join in + one large body and proceed. The guide was in no special haste + as he said he wanted to wait a little later so the weather in + the south would be cooler than they would be likely to find it + if they pressed on at once. He said that in summer it was so + hot that no white man could endure the heat. He said they + could work slowly along the trail, and when the right time + came he would move out himself, and that they might be assured + that it would then be the coolest and best time in which to + travel down there. So the company dallied along, and it was + October before the whole train was made up at a point about a + hundred miles south of Salt Lake.<br> + </p> + <p>The complete organization was divided into seven divisions, + each with its captain, and division No. 1 was to lead the + march the first day and then fall to the rear while No. 2 took + the advance, and so continued till all had taken their turn. + The leading party was to guard and care for the cattle and + deliver them in the morning. The regulations were read aloud + to the captains, and this rather large army of men, women and + children, with about five hundred head of stock, moved out + very systematically. It would sometimes be fully ten o'clock + before the rear division could make a start, and + correspondingly late before they could get up with the main + camp at night. They got along very well, but cleaned the + country of grass for some distance each side of the trail, as + they swept along.<br> + </p> + <p>About the first of November Capt. Smith overtook us with + the pack train, and camped with us at night. He formed many + acquaintances and told them he was going to take a shorter + route and save five hundred miles, rather than take the long + route by way of Los Angeles. He had a map of his proposed + route, and it was very much like the one we had. He also + stated that it could probably be as easily traveled as the one + by way of Los Angeles, and as a consequence of his talk, + cut-off fever began to rage in camp again. Some got very + enthusiastic in the matter and spoke publicly in favor of + following Capt. Smith when he should come to the place when + his short route turned away from the other trail. His plan + grew so much in favor that when the place was reached a + hundred wagons turned out into the Smith trail, leaving Capt. + Hunt only the seven Mormon wagon bound for San Bernardino, + Hunt stood at the forks of the road as the wagons went by and + said to them;—"Good-bye, friends. I cannot, + according to my agreement go with you, for I was hired for + this road, and no other was mentioned. I am in duty bound to + go even if only one wagon decides to go." When the last + wagon had passed him he still stood talking with several who + had chosen the new way and told them they were taking a big + risk, for they did not know very much about the route, and he + had been thinking that they might find it pretty rough and + hard to get over the first time. He said that if all decided + to go that way he would go and help them, even if they went to + h-ll, but as it was he could not. He wished them luck and the + two trains parted company.<br> + </p> + <p>At the end of three days of travel on the Smith trail they + came to the top of a long steep hill. The trail went down and + down, and they see no way of crossing the terribly deep + cañon that was before them. So they went into camp and + sent explorers out to investigate and find a crossing if + possible.<br> + </p> + <p>On the second day the explorers began to return with very + unfavorable reports, and many who found their progress thus + blocked turned about and started to follow Hunt. Most of the + wagons which remained had each one or more of their men out + exploring and could not turn back until their return. Several + of the Jayhawkers having once started on this route were very + anxious to get through on it if a way could be found for them + to do it, and therefore searched farther and with greater + determination than the others. When they returned they + reported they had found a way around the head of the + cañon and they believed it to be the right way. The map + Williams had given them did not show this cañon and + they believed it to be correct, and that the real road led + around at the place which they had found, and no further + trouble would be met.<br> + </p> + <p>Acting on this report about twenty wagons, including the + Jayhawkers, concluded to go ahead. "We can beat the other + fellows a month," said they, and so they hitched up and + pulled out in a northerly direction, feeling in good spirits + and hopeful of success.<br> + </p> + <p>They named this place Mt. Misery. While camped here a lone + and seemingly friendless man died and was buried. None seem + now to remember his name, but think he was from Kentucky. He + was low with consumption and not strong enough to endure the + hardships of the journey.<br> + </p> + <p>About the third night the Jayhawkers were overtaken by + seven more wagons owned by A. Bennett and friends, J.B. Arcane + and family, two men named Earhart and a son of one of them, + and one or two other wagons.<br> + </p> + <p>The Jayhawker's train was made up of men from many states, + but seemed well united and was as complete as when they first + started. The Author was with the party that came up in the + rear, which had started later but traveled faster on account + of having a road broken for them. He visited the leaders in + camp when they were discussing the necessity of forming a new + travelling compact to help and protect each other on the road. + Those who had no families were objecting to being bound to + those who had women and children with them. They argued that + the road would be hard and difficult and those wagons with + women and children would require more assistance than they + would be able to render in return. They said they could go + back and follow Hunt who was on a better road and they could + proceed with more safely.<br> + </p> + <p>Among those with this train was Rev. J.W. Brier, his wife + and three children. He objected to being turned back and said + he did not want to be assisted, but would go with them and do + his part and take care of himself. The Author listened to the + various speeches without speaking and became satisfied that it + would end in every one looking out for himself in case of hard + times. He went over to their camp again the next night and + wished to ask them why they were steering so nearly due north. + He said to them that they were going toward Salt Lake rather + than California, and that the Bennet party did not feel + inclined to follow them any farther in that direction. They + replied that their map told them to go north a day or more and + then they would find the route as represented. They would then + turn west and reach Owen's Lake and from there there would be + no more trouble. The Jayhawker crowd seemed to think they + could go anywhere and no difficulty could happen which they + couldn't overcome. Bennett's little train turned west from + this point and the Jayhawkers went on north, but before night + they changed their minds and came following on after Bennett + whom they overtook and passed, again taking the lead.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus far the country had been well watered and furnished + plenty of grass, and most of them talked and believed that + this kind of rolling country would last all the way through. + The men at leisure scattered around over the hills on each + side of the route taken by the train, and in advance of it, + hunting camping places and making a regular picnic of it. + There were no hardships, and one man had a fiddle which he + tuned up evenings and gave plenty of fine music. Joy and + happiness seemed the rule, and all of the train were certainly + having a good time of it.<br> + </p> + <p>But gradually there came a change as the wagon wheels + rolled westward. The valleys seemed to have no streams in + them, and the mountain ranges grew more and more broken, and + in the lower ground a dry lake could be found, and water and + grass grew scarce—so much so that both men and oxen + suffered. These dry lake beds deceived them many times. They + seemed as if containing plenty of water, and off the men would + go to explore. They usually found the distance to them about + three times as far as they at first supposed, and when at last + they reached them they found no water, but a dry, shining bed, + smooth as glass, but just clay, hard as a rock. Most of these + dry lakes showed no outlet, nor any inlet for that matter, + though at some period in the past they must have been full of + water. Nothing grew in the shape of vegetables or plants + except a small, stunted, bitter brush.<br> + </p> + <p>Away to the west and north there was much broken country, + the mountain ranges higher and rougher and more barren, and + from almost every sightly elevation there appeared one or more + of these dry lake beds. One night after about three days of + travel the whole of the train of twenty seven wagons was + camped along the bank of one of these lakes, this one with a + very little water in it not more than one fourth or one half + an inch in depth, and yet spread out to the width of a mile or + more. It was truly providential, for by digging holes along + the border the water would run into them and prove abundant + for all, both oxen and men. If it had proved dry, as so many + before had proved, or if we had been a few days earlier or + later we might not have found a drop. This proved to be the + last time the whole twenty seven wagons were gathered in one + camp together.<br> + </p> + <p>The Author came into camp about nine o'clock in the evening + after climbing many peaks and taking a survey of the + surrounding country with a field glass. Men from nearly every + mess came to him to inquire what he had seen. They asked all + sorts of questions and wanted an opinion as to the + advisability of trailing across the prairie directly west, + which then seemed easy. They were told that from what could be + seen from the summit of buttes both north and south of the + camp, ranging a hundred or so miles in almost every direction, + it was believed no water could be found, between the present + camp and a range of mountains which could be seen crossing the + route far to the west. "Well," said Capt. Doty of + the Jayhawkers, "I don't like to hear such discouraging + talk from Manley, but I think we will have to steer straight + ahead. The prospect for water seems to be about the same, west + or south, and I cannot see that we would better ourselves, by + going north." When morning came Capt. Doty and his party + yoked up and set out straight across the desert, leaving seven + wagons of the Bennett party still in camp.<br> + </p> + <p>For some time all of us had seen in the range ahead an + appearance of a pass, or lower place in the mountain, and we + had got to calling it Martin's Pass, naming it after Jim + Martin. There was a snow-capped peak just to the south of it + and the pass, now apparently exactly west of the lake camp, + seemed to the Jayhawkers easy to reach. Their wills were + strong enough and they were running over with determination + and energy enough to carry them over any plain, no matter how + dry or barren, or over any mountain no matter how rugged and + steep.<br> + </p> + <p>Five days they traveled, without finding water, and small + supply they took along had been consumed. For lack of water + they could not eat or sleep. The oxen gathered round the + little fire and seemed to beg for water, they had no cud to + chew unless it was the cud of disappointment. The range of + mountains they had been aiming for still seemed far away and + the possible show for reaching it seemed very poor indeed, and + the prospect of any water hole between them and the mountains + poorer yet. Hope was pretty near gone. Martins mess unyoked + their oxen from the wagons, put some small packs on their own + backs, and loaded some upon the backs of the oxen, and turned + south toward the nearest snowy mountain they could see, the + same one towards which the Bennett party steered from the lake + camp.<br> + </p> + <p>The Doty party kept their courage longer and kept on + straight ahead for another day, and then camped, almost + without hope. No rest came to them, nor sleep. Towards morning + as they stood around the fire a stray cloud appeared and hid + the stars, and shortly after began to unload a cargo of snow + it carried. They spread out every blanket, and brushed up + every bit they could from the smooth places, kindled a little + fire of brush under the camp kettles and melted all the snow + all of them could gather, besides filling their mouths as fast + as ever they could, hoping that it would full in sufficient + quantities to satisfy themselves and the oxen, and quench + their dreadful thirst. Slowly the cloud moved scattering the + snowflakes till they felt relieved. The last time the Author + conversed with a member of this party was in 1892, and it was + conceded that this storm saved the lives of both man and beast + in that little band of Jayhawkers. It was like manna falling + from Heaven, and as surely saved their lives as did the manna + of the Bible save the lives of the tribes of Israel. They had + no reason to expect a storm of rain or snow, but came to them + just as they were perishing. A little further on they came to + a small stream of water, and as the bed showed only a recent + flow it must also have come from the little local storm + further up the mountain. They used this water freely, even + though it was not very good, and it acted on them very much + like a solution of Glanber Salts.<br> + </p> + <p>They decided at first that they had better follow the + stream southward, but after a little time, feeling the + sickness caused by the water, they saw it was no advantage and + turned west again, bearing to the north toward a sort of pass + they could now see in the mountains in that direction. This + stream is now known as the Amargosa, or bitter, river.<br> + </p> + <p>The new direction in which they marched gave them an + up-hill route for thirty or forty miles, rough and barren, + with no water or grass. There was no road or trail to follow, + the oxen were as weak as their owners from drinking the bitter + water, and the road needed some clearing and breaking in + places before the wagons could pass. They moved quite slowly + and reached the summit on the second night with the loss of a + single ox. The Author would say here that this was the last ox + which was allowed to die without using the flesh for food, and + it was from this same one he cut a steak to eat on Christmas + eve, 1849.<br> + </p> + <p>From the summit they took a way down a dark, deep + cañon having a steep slope, and very rocky and bad, but + down which the oxen drew their loads much easier than when + they came up, reaching water on the third day, where there + were many springs, and a sort of coarse grass for the oxen. + The place is now known as Furnace Creek. The Jayhawkers passed + on, and here at these very springs was where the Author + overtook the Rev. J.W. Brier delivering a lecture to his + children on the benefits of an early education, as referred to + in his narrative.<br> + </p> + <p>As the Jayhawkers drove out of this Furnace Creek + Cañon the valley into which they came was very narrow, + the high, snow-capped mountain before them seemed steeper and + rougher than ever, so steep in fact that it could not be + ascended by a man on foot. A short distance below could be + seen a lake containing water, and the pass toward which they + had been directing their course seemed to the north of them. + They therefore turned their course in that direction. The road + was sandy, and the brush that grew on it was only a few inches + high. On their way they came to an abandoned Indian camp + occupied by one poor old blind red man. He would hold his + mouth open like a young bird begging for something to eat. One + man dropped kernels of parched corn into his mouth, but + instead of eating them he quickly spit them out; it seemed + that he had been left to die and could not or would not. His + hair was white as snow. His skin looked about the color of a + smoked ham, and so crippled was he that he crawled about like + a beast, on all fours. It was barely possible that he had been + left to watch, and that his great infirmities were only + pretended, but they seemed genuine enough, and were doubtless + true. They left him in peaceable possession of the spot and + traveled on.<br> + </p> + <p>They approached the base of the mountain in front of what + they had all along supposed to be a pass, and found, as they + had lately begun to suspect, that there was no pass that their + wagons could be taken through, and they must be abandoned. The + camp was poor. What little water there was had a salty taste, + and they could only find here and there a bunch of the poorest + grass. The oxen stood around as if utterly dispirited, and + would sometimes make a faint effort to pick up and eat some of + the dry brush that grew around the desolate camp. This camp is + now known to be in the northern part of Death Valley, but then + they knew no names for anything, but if dreariness and absence + of life, and threatened danger all around were any indication, + they might well have named it Death Valley as was afterwards + done by the party with whom the Author traveled.<br> + </p> + <p>The party had been brave till now, but when they realized + that they must make pack animals of themselves, and trudge on, + they knew not where, perhaps to only a lingering death, the + keen edge of disappointment cut close, and they realized how + desolate they were. They felt much inclined to attribute all + their troubles to the advice of the Mormons. Some said that + the plan was thus to wipe so many more hated Gentiles out of + the way, and wishes were deep and loud that the Mormons might + all be buried out of sight in the Great Salt Lake. They + thought Lot's wife must have been turned to salt in the + neighborhood, everything was so impregnated with saline + substances, and the same result might come to them. But the + inherent manhood of the little band came to their relief and + they determined not to die without a struggle for escape and + life.<br> + </p> + <p>They killed some of their oxen, and took the wood of their + wagons and kindled fires to dry and smoke the flesh so it + would be light and easy to carry with them. They scattered all + surplus baggage around the ground, carefully storing and + saving the bit of bread that yet remained and dividing it + equally among the party. They also divided the tea, coffee, + rice and some such things, and each one agreed that he could + not ask aught of his neighbor more. Knapsacks were improvised + from parts of the wagon canvas, and long strips of canvas were + made into a sort of pack harness for the oxen. It was a sad + sight to see the strong and vigorous young men of a few days + ago reduced to such straits; almost skeletons now, with no + hope of nourishment to invigorate them. They made canteens by + sewing a couple of small powder cans in cloth, with a band to + go over the shoulders.<br> + </p> + <p>The Jayhawkers were still making their preparations when + the Martin party and Rev. J.W. Brier and family came up to + their camp, having taken a circuit around farther to the + south. The Martin party was already in marching order and this + camp was so poor that they did not wait, but gave all their + oxen they had left to Mr. Brier and said they could get on + faster without them. They took a straight course over the + hills and up the mountain, saying they believed they had + provisions enough upon their backs to last them through, and + that nothing should check their progress till they reached the + other side, where they said were fertile valleys and plenty of + chance to live.<br> + </p> + <p>The Doty party, or Jayhawkers, when they were ready started + first a northerly course to find a more favorable place to + cross the range and drove their oxen with them, each with a + small pack. They soon came to some good water, and after + refreshing themselves turned westward to cross the great + mountain before them. Both men and oxen were shod with + moccasins made of raw-hide to protect the feet against sharp + rocks. They could see no trail but merely picked out the best + way to go. While climbing the steep mountain side they came + across a dead ox left by some party that had gone before them. + They cut out the tongue and some of the best meat and ate it + to eke out their own small stock, and carried some pieces with + them, but soon threw it all away but enough for a roast for + supper.<br> + </p> + <p>When it was getting dark they were almost at the summit, + but there was no good camping place, and they saw a small fire + light at a little distance and went to it, finding a poor lone + camper taking care of himself. They camped here also. It + seemed as if there were many men from the various parties + scattered all around the country, each one seeking out the + path which seemed to suit best his tender feet or present + fancy, steering west as well as mountains and cañon + would permit, some farther north, some farther south and + generally demoralized, each thinking that as a last resort he + would be able to save his own life. It seemed to be a question + of will and endurance, strong hearts and keeping the body in + motion. The weak and faint must fail, and the strong said to + the weak;—"Stand up; be a man; don't fall + down;" and so the strong spurred on the weak and kept + them up as best they could.<br> + </p> + <p>Down the mountain they went, on the west side and instead + of Los Angeles, which some of them expected to see, they saw + only a salt lake in the midst of a barren desert valley and + their route lay directly across it. They traveled in several + directions as they went across. One went across the valley on + a strip of dried mud between two small lakes. Others followed + down along the east side of the lake near the foot of the + mountain, where they found some good water and an old Indian + camp. They found some mosquite beans, which they did not know + were of much use, but really, if they had known how to fix + them up a little they would have been good food.<br> + </p> + <p>Capt. Doty's mess crossed between the lakes on the strip of + dry mud while others went on where it was still soft and left + marks of their foot-steps. Both parties turned up a small + cañon on the west side and began the ascent of a black + and barren range, containing no water, but in the bed of the + ravine near the summit they found some damp sand and tried to + dig with their hands to find some of the precious fluid. But + no water came, and in the morning one of their number Mr. Fish + died and was left unburied on the barren rocks. No doubt his + bones could be found there to-day.<br> + </p> + <p>Turning west again, they had a down grade over a most + barren and rocky road for many miles. The prospect from this + point was any thing but cheering. To the left a large lake + could be seen, and from their previous experience they + concluded it to be salt, and the valley they were coming to + was very sandy, and the hardest sort of footing for men and + animals as weak as those of the party were. It must be crossed + before there was any possibility of water, and when across it + was quite uncertain whether they could obtain any. One of + their number had already died of thirst and fatigue and all + were suffering terribly.<br> + </p> + <p>The valley seemed about eight miles across, and before they + were half way over Mr. Ischam, one of their party sat down, + perfectly exhausted, and said he could not take another step. + No one was able to assist him or give him a drink of water, + and they could not tarry to see if rest would refresh him. + They could only look sadly at him and pass on in silence, for + he seemed fast wasting away. The thought came to everyone that + perhaps it would be his turn next to sit down and see the + others pass on. In fact the probability of any more of them + living another day was very poor, for they all grew weaker and + weaker with every hour, and no one knew how many hours must + pass before they could hope for water. There was not moisture + enough in their poor bodies to make tears, and no one dare + open his mouth, lest all the moisture suddenly evaporate and + respiration cease.<br> + </p> + <p>Those who had no cattle took different courses to reach the + hills and mountains on the west side of this valley, hoping + there to find water and signal to the others if they were + successful. All except the two men managed to get across, and + finding no water the packs were taken from the oxen and they + were driven to the lake which appeared on the left. Reaching + the lake they found the water red in color and so strong of + alkali that no man or beast could take a single swallow. They + drove the cattle back again with sad hearts, and almost + despondent, for in the rough, dry rocks of the mountains there + seemed no signs of water. But they were saved again. Those who + bore farthest to the right in their course to the mountains, + steering toward a pile of tremendous rocks, found a little + stream of good water which flowed only a short distance and + then sank into the sand. This good news spread rapidly, and + all soon gathered at the little streamlet. It was slow work + getting water for them all, but by being patient they were all + filled up. Some took two canteens of water and hurried back to + Mr. Ischam, whom they found still alive but his mouth and + throat so dry and parched, and his strength so small that he + was unable to swallow a single drop, and while they waited he + breathed his last. With their hands and feet they dug away the + sand for a shallow grave, placed the body in it, covered it + with his blankets, and then scraped the sand back over again + to make a little mound over their dead comrade. Perhaps if he + could have walked a mile farther he might have lived, and but + for the little trickling stream of water from the rocks they + might all be dead, so slight were the circumstances that + turned the scale to balance toward life or death.<br> + </p> + <p>There was so little feed for oxen that they could gain no + strength, but were much refreshed by the water and could still + travel. One was killed here, and the meat, poor as it was, + gave the men new strength. They all guessed it to be at least + fifty miles to the base of the great snow mountain before + them, and what there was between no one could tell, for there + were hills and valleys between. Leaving the little spring + their course led first up a small cañon, and when they + reached the summit of the ridge a small valley covered with + sage brush was before them, the most fertile spot they had + seen for a long time. The descent to this valley was through + another cañon which was filled with large boulders for + much of the way, and over these it seemed almost impossible to + get the cattle. They had seen no water since leaving the + little stream, and the plain they were now approaching seemed + thirty miles wide, with no signs of streams or springs. + However just at the foot of the cañon they found a + small water hole, but the water was so salt that even the oxen + refused to drink it.<br> + </p> + <p>They decided to make a push across the plain and endeavor + to reach the other side in two days, and they knew there could + be no water on its even expanse. The plain seemed quite an up + grade from where they were to the base of the mountain.<br> + </p> + <p>On the second day they all reached the point they were + aiming for except Rev. J.W. Brier and family, and they came in + one day behind. Every one looked out for himself and had no + time nor strength to spare to help others. Here on a small + bench overlooking the country to the south and east but still + a long distance from the snow, they found some holes of water, + and some bunch grass a little farther up the hill. Here was a + large trail coming from the north and leading from this point + westward. There were no signs of recent use, but there were + many indications that it was quite ancient and had been + considerably traveled in time past. This was quite encouraging + to many of them and they declared they would follow this trail + which would surely lead to some place well known, in a better + country. They cared not whether it led to California, Mexico, + or Texas, only that they might get out of this country which + seemed accursed. Any place where they could get something to + eat and drink would be better than this.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. and Mrs. Brier had some pretty hard struggles to get + along, and everyone of this party has ever been loud in praise + of the energy and determination of the brave little woman of + the Brier mess. All agreed that she was by far the best man of + the party. She was the one who put the packs on the oxen in + the morning. She it was who took them off at night, built the + fires, cooked the food, helped the children, and did all sorts + of work when the father of the family was too tired, which was + almost all of the time. They all said that he, like other + ministers, had fallen out with any work but that of the + tongue, and seemed perfectly willing for some one else to do + the work. Mrs. Brier had the sympathy of everyone, and many + would have helped her if they could. She waited on her big + husband with untiring zeal, and still had time to care for the + children with all of a mother's love. It seemed almost + impossible that one little woman could do so much. It was + entirely to her untiring devotion that her husband and + children lived. Mr. Brier had but little sympathy or help from + any one but her. Some were quite sarcastic in their remarks + about the invalid preacher who never earned his bread by the + sweat of his brow, and by their actions showed that they did + not care very much whether he ever got through or not. They + thought he ought to have asserted his manliness and taken the + burden on himself, and not lean upon his delicate and trusting + wife as he seemed to do. All are sure that it is to his + faithful wife the Rev. J.W. Brier owed his succor from the + sands of that desert.<br> + </p> + <p>Looking back on the scenes of that day, the way the selfish + dispositions of people were made manifest is almost + incredible. Every one seemed to think only of saving his own + life, and every spark of human sympathy and kindness seemed + extinguished. A man would drink the last cup of water even if + his neighbor choked.<br> + </p> + <p>This camp was the same one which the Author mentions in his + narrative, to which Rogers and himself crept so silently and + carefully at night to ascertain whether the occupants were + friends or foes. They were much pleased to find it was Capt. + Doty of the Jayhawkers and his mess who had remained behind to + dry the flesh of an ox they had killed when it could travel no + longer. The others had gone on ahead, following the trail, + leaving these to follow. They staid here two days, and it was + while waiting here that the Rev. J.W. Brier came up as before + related, and they all went on together when they moved.<br> + </p> + <p>Nearly every man had carried a gun in the early days of the + expedition, hoping to kill game, and to be well armed in case + of attack by Indians or enemies, but they began to find that + they were useless encumbrances, and first one and then another + would throw away his fire-arms as a burden too great for a + weary man to bear. There was no game, and the poor weak men + hardly deemed their own lives worth defending against an enemy + when a day or two of lack of water would end the matter of + life at any rate.<br> + </p> + <p>As they slept they dreamed the most tantalizing dreams of + clear, rippling brooks of water; of wading knee deep in the + most beautiful of ponds; of hoisting the old moss-covered + bucket from some deep old well; of breaking and eating great + white loaves of bread; of surrounding the home table with its + load of steaming beans and bacon, fragrant coffee and + delicious fried cakes. With such dreams of comfort, they awoke + to realize more fully the terrors of their dry and swollen + throats, the discomfort of empty stomachs. Water and food were + the great riches of life to them then. Had piles of + twenty-dollars pieces been on the one hand and a bucket of + cold water on the other there is no doubt of the choice that + would have been made.<br> + </p> + <p>Seven or eight miles from this place were two branches to + the trail. One led into the mountains toward the snow, and the + other still bore southerly. They could see that some other + party who had no oxen to drive had taken the more northerly + route, which seemed to lead more directly in the direction of + the mines of California. Those who came later, with animals + thought it would be folly to try to cross the deep snow they + could see on the mountains before them and concluded that it + would be safer to the south of the snow line, braving the + danger of scarcity of water, rather than to perish in the + snow. Capt. Doty was willing to attempt the northern branch of + the trail if the others so decided, but the general feeling + was in favor of the more plain and open trail which led away + from the snows. It is known that this Northern branch led over + what is known as Walker's Pass, coming out at the Kern + River.<br> + </p> + <p>Taking then the southern branch, the party passed through a + range of low mountains, and then the country before them + seemed quite level for a hundred miles.<br> + </p> + <p>They expected they would find much difficulty on account of + water, as their experience had taught them that it was very + scarce in such locations, but this trail when they came to + follow it led them for eight or ten miles over a level piece + of high land that looked as if it might have slid down from + the high mountain at some day long past, and this easily + traveled road brought them at last to the top of a steep hill, + down which they went and found near the bottom, a small weak + stream of water, but no grass, and but little fuel of any + kind. (This was the same camp at which Rogers and the Author + overtook the advance party.) Here they killed an ox, which + made a good meal for all, and not much remained over, for many + had no oxen and were getting out of all sorts of provisions. + They depended much on the generosity of their fellow + travelers. Many of them stood back, and waited till those who + owned the food were satisfied, and were very grateful when + they were invited to take even the poorest morsels.<br> + </p> + <p>They could count the oxen and make a pretty close guess of + how many days they could live in this way, even with the best + probable fortune favoring them, and to the best of them there + was but little hope, and to those who were dependent it seemed + as if the fate of Fish and Ischam might be theirs almost any + day. When the Author conversed with them at this camp he found + them the first really heart-broken men he had ever seen. Some + were men of middle age who had left good farms that gave them + every need, and these they had left to seek a yellow phantom, + and now there were yellow phantoms of a different sort rearing + their dreadful forms all about them. They called themselves + foolish gold hunters to forsake a land of plenty for a chance + to leave their bones in a hot desert. More eyes than one + filled with tears, and hopes in more than one breast vanished + to almost nothing. More than one would gladly have placed + himself back where he could have been assured of the poorest + fare he ever saw upon his farm, for bread and water would have + been an assurance of life, of which there seemed to be really + but little expectation here.<br> + </p> + <p>When they left this camp in the cañon the trail was + between two high rocks, rising like walls on each side. In one + place they were so near together that an ox could hardly + squeeze through. In a very short time they came to a bunch of + willows growing out in the open ground. The little bunch or + grove was forty or fifty feet in diameter, and in the center + was a spring of water. The center of the clump had been + cleared out, making a sort of corral of bushes, enclosing the + spring. On the outside there was quite a little growth of + grass, which was a fortunate thing for their poor beasts.<br> + </p> + <p>Away in the distance, rising up a little against the + western sky they could see mountains with snow on them, and it + seemed as if it were a journey of five or six days to reach + them, but the good water and the grass bolstered up their + spirits wonderfully for there was present relief and rather + better prospects ahead. They were pretty sure that the wide + plain held no water. Everything that would hold the precious + drink was filled, and the best preparations made for what they + believed was to be the final struggle for life. They rested + one day and prepared for the very worst that might before + them. Early in the morning when they could see plainest, they + looked across the expanse before them and really it did not + seem quite so barren, hot and desolate as the region they had + passed, and they talked and hoped that this would be the last + desert they must cross and that Los Angeles lay just beyond + the sunny ridge they could dimly see ahead. There were some + tears that more than one would not live to answer roll call on + the other side, but it was the last hope, and worth an + earnest, active trial.<br> + </p> + <p>Early in the morning, much refreshed, they started on again + with rather sober faces. That night one man insisted on + sleeping with his clothes and boots all on, for he said if he + died he wanted to die in full dress. Another day and some + thought they could see trees on the mountains ahead of them, + and this renewed their courage greatly. In the middle of the + day they suffered greatly with the heat and the dry air seemed + to drink up every bit of moisture from everybody. When they + killed an ox they saved the blood and ate it. The intestines, + cleaned with the fingers, made food when roasted on the fire, + and pieces of hide, singed and roasted, helped to sustain + life. The water was nearly all gone. Only power of will and + strength of body had kept any. Capt. Asa Haines sat down one + day and said he could go no farther, but his comrade, L.D. + Stephens, who had kept a little rice, a little tea, and a dry + crust of bread for time of need, took a little water in a cup + and made some soup which he forced his friend to eat and soon + he revived and was able to move on again. That was true + friendship.<br> + </p> + <p>The next night Stevens himself awoke and seemed perishing + with thirst. He crawled over to Doty's bed and begged for just + one sup of water, Doty in the goodness of his heart, took his + canteen from under his head divided the last few drops with + him and the death which threatened him was held off. Capt. + Doty found it necessary to talk very seriously to those who + mourned and talked of failing. He never gave up in the least. + He encouraged all to make every step they could and know no + such word as fail. When they said that death would be easier + than life, he told them so, but that life was possible if they + only willed it, and a better life than had been theirs. And so + he kept them encouraged and kept them putting one foot before + the other, pointing out the ever lessening distance to the + mountain before them. He appealed to their manhood. "Be + men," said he, "Be brave and courageous, and you + have more strength than you believe." Thus by example and + words he proved to be a true captain to his little band.<br> + </p> + <p>Their water was all gone, every drop, and still the + foot-hills seemed far away. The supply of meat ran out. Tom + Shannon killed an ox, and when those who had cattle had taken + some, the others who had none were told to divide the rest. + There was no water to dress or cook it, but it helped to + sustain life. Entrails, bones, sinews, bits of hide and + everything was used. One man was seen with an ox horn, burning + the end in the fire and gnawing away at the softened portion. + It was something terrible to see human beings eating what the + dogs would cast aside. One man saw some moist looking earth on + the shady side of a bunch of brush and he dug down and got a + handful of it, from which he tried to suck the moisture. He + failed, and the bad taste of the earth made him suffer more + than before. Many bones of horses and cattle now appeared + along the trail. They seemed to have been there a long time, + and some were partly decayed. On this waterless stretch one of + their number, a Frenchman, wandered off, searching for water + in little hollows or puddles, and never came back to camp. He + was supposed to be dead, but ten years afterward some + surveyors found him in a Digger Indian camp.<br> + </p> + <p>An idea how selfish men will get under such circumstances + may be gained by relating that on one occasion when an ox was + killed the liver was carried to the brave little Mrs. Brier + for herself and children, and she laid it aside for a few + moments till she could attend to some other duties before + cooking it. Darkness coming on meanwhile, some unprincipled, + ungallant thief stole it, and only bits of offal and almost + uneatable pieces were left to sustain their lives. That any + one could steal the last morsel from a woman and her children + surpasses belief, but yet it was plain that there was at least + one man in the party who could do it. No one can fully + understand or describe such scenes as this unless he has + looked into just such hungry looking, haggard eyes and faces, + a mixture of determination and despair, the human expression + almost vanishing, and the face of a starving wolf or jackal + taking its place. There are no words to paint such a state of + things to him who has never seen and known.<br> + </p> + <p>But there were true men, true, charitable hearts in that + little band. Though death stared them in the face they never + forgot their fellow men. As they slowly crawled along many + would wander here and there beside the trail and fall behind, + especially the weaker ones, and many were the predictions that + such and such a one would never come up again, or reach the + camp. Then it was that these noble souls, tired almost beyond + recovery themselves, would take water and go back to seek the + wandering ones and give them drink and help them on. More than + one would thus have perished in the sands but for the little + canteen of water carried back by some friend. Only a swallow + or two would often revive their failing strength and courage, + and with slow step they would move on again. How much good a + crust of bread would have done such a poor creature. Bread + there was none—nothing but the flesh of their poor oxen, + wasted and consumed by days of travel and lack of food till it + had no goodness in it. Even the poor oxen, every night seemed + to be the end of their walking; every morning it was feared + that that would be the last time they would be able to rise + upon their feet.<br> + </p> + <p>Already five or six days had passed since they left the + camp at the willows where they had their last supply of water, + and still they were on the desert. The journey was longer than + they had expected, partly owing to the slow progress they had + made for there were frequent stops to rest or they could not + move at all. The mountains seemed nearer every day, and the + trees were outlined more plainly each morning as they started + out. Capt. Doty used every circumstance to encourage them. He + would remark upon the favorable signs of water in the hills + before them, and the hope that there might be some game to + provide better meat than that of starving oxen. Thus he + renewed their hope and kept alive their courage. He must have + had a great deal of fortitude to hide his own sad feelings, + for they must as surely have come to him as to any one, and to + keep up always an air of hope, courage, and determination to + succeed. If he had been a man of less spirit and good judgment + it is very probable that many more would have been left by the + wayside to die.<br> + </p> + <p>About this point the trail which had been growing fainter + and fainter, seemed to vanish entirely. One could move in + almost any direction to right or left as he chose, and because + of this, previous travel had doubtless scattered and thus left + no trail. It was thought best that this company should spread + out and approach the mountains in as broad a front as possible + so as to multiply the chances of finding water, and so they + started out in pairs, some to the right and some to the left, + each selecting the point where water seemed most probable.<br> + </p> + <p>Tom Shannon and a companion were one of these pairs. Tom + was one of the few who still stuck to his gun, for he felt + that it might save his life sometime. He and his companion + separated about a mile, each looking at all points that showed + the least sign of water. Suddenly a jack rabbit started from a + bush, the first game Shannon had seen for more than a month. + He pulled the rifle on him as he was making some big bound and + had the good luck to nearly split his head open. Rushing up to + his game he put his mouth to the wound and sucked the warm + blood as it flowed, for it was the first liquid he had seen; + but instead of allaying his fearful thirst it seemed to make + it worse and he seemed delirious. A little way up the gulch he + saw a rock and a green bush and steered for it, but found no + water. He sat down with his back to the rock, his rifle + leaning up near by, pulled his old worn hat over his eyes, and + suffered an agony of sickness. He realized that life was + leaving his body, and there he sat with no power to move and + no desire to make an effort. It seemed as if he could see + plain before him all the trail from where he sat, back over + all the deserts, mountains and rivers to the old place in + Illinois. He entirely forgot the present, and seemed + unconscious of everything but the pictures of the past. The + mind seemed growing freer from its attachment to the body and + at liberty to take in his whole past life, and bright scenes + that had gone before. How long he sat thus he knows not. His + companion was fortunate in finding water, and when he had + refreshed himself he set out to find poor Tom of whom he could + see nothing. Going toward where he heard the shot he followed + on till he saw him at the rock, almost doubled up, with his + face concealed by his hat. "O! Tom!" said he, but + there came no answering motion, and going nearer he called + again and still no answer and no sign. Poor Tom had surely + passed on to the better land, thought he, and salvation was so + near. He approached and lifted the hat rim. There was a + movement of the eyes, a quivering of the muscles of the face, + and a sort of semi-unconscious stare such as precedes + approaching dissolution.<br> + </p> + <p>Quickly holding back his head he poured water between his + lips from his canteen and it was swallowed. Then a little + more, and then some more, and life seemed coming back again + into a troublesome world, bringing pain with it, and the + consciousness of a suffering body. After a time he felt better + and was helped to his feet, and together they went to the + water hole where they made a fire and cooked the rabbit which + was the first savory meat they had tasted for a long time. Tom + felt better and told his companion how he felt after tasting + the warm rabbit's blood, and how he had nearly gone off into + the sleep of death.<br> + </p> + <p>"If you had been a little longer finding me," + said Tom, "I should soon have been out of this sad + world." They fired a signal gun, looked down at the bones + of the rabbit, drank more water, and gradually felt new life + coming to them. The mountains seemed more fertile, and there + was brush and grass near by, timber farther up, and still + higher a cap of snow extending far along the range, both north + and south. Towards night on this eventful day the scattered + travelers began to come slowly into camp attracted by the guns + and the smoke of the fire made by those who first found the + water. Some were nearly as far gone as Tom Shannon was, and + great caution had to used in giving them water on their empty + stomach. One man named Robinson became so weak before he got + near camp that his companions placed him on the back of one of + the animals and a man walked on either side to catch him if he + fell off. When they got within a mile of the water he insisted + that he was strong enough to take care of himself and not be + watched every minute, and they relaxed their vigilance. He + soon fell off, and when they went to him he refused to be put + back on the animal again or to walk any farther. "Just + spread my blankets down," said he, "and I will lie + down and rest a little and after a while I will come along + into camp." So they left him and pushed on to water, and + when they were a little refreshed went back to him with water, + and to help him to come in, but when they came to him they + found him dead. He did not seem to have moved after he had + lain down. He did not seem so bad off as Shannon was when he + lay down, and probably a few swallows of water at that time + would have saved his life. It seemed sad indeed, after so much + suffering and striving to get along, that he should die within + a mile of water that would have saved his life. If he had + possessed a little more strength so that the spark of life + could have remained a little longer, the cooling moisture from + the canteen would have revived it, and a little rest would + have placed him on his feet again. They had no tools to dig a + grave, not even a knife for they had left every weight in + camp, so they covered him closely in his blankets and sadly + returned to their friends. They had all along hoped that the + Frenchman who had wandered away would come in, but he never + came. There were several water holes scattered around at this + point which seemed to be a sort of sunken place in the hills, + and quite large brush could be obtained for fire, and grass + for the oxen. Those who had been good hunters and had thrown + away their rifles as useless burdens, now began to look at + hills before them and think that game might be found in them, + as well as water. There were only one or two guns in the whole + party, They thought that this must surely be the edge of the + great desert they had crossed, and only the snow range before + them could be the obstacle that separated them from Los + Angeles.<br> + </p> + <p>One day from here would bring them to the edge of the snow, + and they debated as to the best course to pursue. Some of them + were fearful they could not cross the snow with the oxen, for + it seemed to be quite deep. The best place to cross seemed + directly west of them. South was a higher peak, and to the + north it was surely impassible. There seemed to be a faint + sign of a trail from this point towards the lowest point in + the snow mountains. There were some bones of cattle around the + springs which they thought was an indication that in years + gone by there had been some traveling on this trail. There + surely would be water in the snow which could be got by + melting it, and on the whole it seemed best to make the + attempt to cross at the lowest place. There were no signs of + travel except the trail which had not been used in years, not + signs of civilization except the bones.<br> + </p> + <p>Starting from the water holes which showed no signs of + having been used for several years, their next camp was, as + they had calculated, on the edge of the snow where they found + plenty of dry juniper trees for fire. and of course plenty of + water. Here they killed an ox and fed the hungry so that they + were pretty well refreshed. This was an elevated place and + they could look back over the trail across the desert for, + what seemed to them, a hundred miles, and the great dangers of + their journey were discussed. Said one of them to Tom + Shannon:—"Tom, you killed the first game we have + come across in two months. Even the buzzards and coyotes knew + better than to go out in into the country where the cursed + Mormon saint sent us numbskulls." Another said that while + they had been seeking a heaven on earth they had passed + through purgatory, or perhaps a worse place still nearer the + one from which sulphurous fumes arise, and now they hoped that + there might be a somewhat more heavenly place beyond the snow. + One who had been silent seemed awakened by inspiration and + spoke in impromptu lines somewhat as follows, as he pointed + out to the dim distance:—<br> + </p> + <div align="center"> + "Yonder in mountains' gray beauty,<br> + Wealth and fame decay.<br> + Yonder, the sands of the desert,<br> + Yonder, the salt of the sea,<br> + Yonder, a fiery furnace,<br> + Yonder, the bones of our friends,<br> + Yonder the old and the young<br> + Lie scattered along the way."<br> + </div> + <p>Some even confessed the desperate thoughts that had come to + their minds when they were choking and starving. We have + mentioned four of the train who had perished beside the trail + and it will be remembered that one party of eleven started out + on foot before the wagons were abandoned by the rest of the + party. Nothing was heard of these for seven years, but long + afterward nine skeletons were found at the remains of a camp, + and the other two were afterward seen in the gold fields. When + spoken to about this party, they burst into tears and could + not talk of it. So it is known that at least thirteen men + perished in the country which has well been named Death + Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>People who have always been well fed, and have never + suffered from thirst till every drop of moisture seemed gone + from the body, so they dare not open their mouth lest they dry + up and cease to breathe, can never understand, nor is there + language to convey the horrors of such a situation. The story + of these parties may seem like fairy fables, but to those who + experienced it all, the strongest statements come far short of + the reality. No one could believe how some men, when they are + starving take on the wild aspect of savage beasts, and that + one could never feel safe in their presence. Some proved true + and kind and charitable even with death staring them in the + face, and never forgot their fellow men. Some that seemed + weakest proved strongest in the final struggle for + existence.<br> + </p> + <p>Early next morning before the sun rose they started to + cross the snow, leaving their comrade Robinson behind, rolled + up in his blankets, taking his everlasting sleep so far as the + troubles of this world are concerned. What the day would bring + forth very few could have any idea. Go on they must, and this + direction seemed most promising. If the snow should prove hard + enough to hold up the oxen they could probably cross before + night, but if compelled to camp in the snow it was a doubtful + case for them.<br> + </p> + <p>The snow held them as they advanced on it, but grew a + little softer as the sun got higher. The tracks of both men + and animals were stained with blood from their worn-out feet. + When they turned the summit they found more timber and the + ravine they followed was so shaded that the force of the sun + was broken, and they really did not suffer very much from + slumping through the snow, and so got safely over. Not far + below the snow they found a running brook of clear, sweet + water, with willows along the banks and trees on the hills, + the first really good water for a month or two. This is the + same camp where Rogers and his companion ate their meal of + quail, hawk and crow a few days before, and these travelers + knew by the remains of the little camp fire that they were + following on the trail of the two men who had gone before.<br> + </p> + <p>This place was so great an improvement on the camps of the + past that all hands began to talk and act more rational as + hope dawned more brightly on them. Those who had guns branched + off to search for game, but found they were too weak for that + kind of work, and had to sit down very often to rest. When + they tried to run they stumbled down and made very poor + progress.<br> + </p> + <p>Capt. Doty, Tom Shannon and Bill Rude sat down to rest on a + bold point above the creek. While there three wild horses came + along within easy range, and thinking they would form better + meat than the oxen each man picked his animal and all fired + simultaneously, bringing them all to the ground. This seemed a + piece of glorious luck, and all rushed in like wolves lifter a + wounded animal. It was not very long before each had a chunk + of meat in his hand, and many a one did not stop from eating + because it was not cooked. Such declared they never ate + anything so delicious in all their lives before, and wondered + why horses were not used as food instead of hogs and cattle. + As they satisfied their ravenous appetites they ate more like + beasts than like men, so nearly were they starved, and so + nearly had their starving condition made them fall from their + lofty estate.<br> + </p> + <p>As they passed on down this cañon they found it very + brushy and on the dry leaves under the wide-spreading trees + they saw signs of bear and perhaps other animals. There were + some swampy places where it was grassy, and into these the + cattle rushed with great eagerness for the food they had so + long suffered for. Some of Mr. Brier's cattle went in, and in + tramping around for food sank deep into the mud and could not + be coaxed out again. Mrs. Brier threw clubs at them but they + did not seem inclined to pay much attention to her attacks so + she was forced to go in after them herself, and in so doing + also sank into the mud and could not get out without + assistance. All this time her reverend husband sat outside on + the hard ground at a safe distance, but did not offer any + help. Probably if an extended and learned lecture on the + effects of gravitation would have done any good he would have + been ready with prompt and extended service to one whom he had + promised to love and cherish.<br> + </p> + <p>About this time L.D. Stevens came along and seeing the + condition of the unfortunate woman, at once went to her + assistance and helped her to dry land. Brier himself never + made a move nor said a word. Stevens looked terribly cross at + him and remarked to his companions that if the preacher + himself had been the one stuck in the mud he would have been + quite inclined to leave him there for all of helping him.<br> + </p> + <p>The cañon grew narrow as they descended, and the + brush thicker, so that to follow the bed of the stream was the + only way to get along. The cattle seemed to scent a bear and + stampeded in terror through the brush in various directions, + all except one which was being led by a rope. They tried to + follow the animals in a desperate effort to recover them and a + few blankets they had upon their backs, but could only make + slow progress. Tom Shannon and two others found a fresh bear + track and determined to follow it awhile in the hope of having + revenge on the cause of their mishap with the oxen. They took + their blankets and kept the trail till night when they camped, + but were at so great an elevation that a snowstorm came with + six inches of snow so they could no longer follow the + track.<br> + </p> + <p>They were very hungry and on the way back came across some + wild cherries which had dried perfectly dry as they hung on + the bushes. These they picked and ate, cracking the seeds with + their teeth, and declaring them to be the best of fruit. Good + appetites made almost anything taste good then. They got back + to the creek next day pretty nearly starved, and with neither + a bear nor runaway oxen to reward them for their two days' + hard work.<br> + </p> + <p>Wood and water were plenty, but grass was scarce and their + ox had to live on brush and leaves, but this was infinitely + better than the stunted and bitter shrubs of the desert. They + came out of the brush at last into the open bottom land where + the brook sank out of sight in the sand, and sage brush + appeared all about. From this on, over the elevated point + which projected out nearly across the valley, their experience + and emotions in coming in sight of vast herds of cattle + feeding on rolling grassy hills, or reclining under great oak + trees scattered over the more level lands, were much the same + as came to the Author and his party when the same scene was + suddenly opened to them. Signs of civilization and of plenty + so suddenly appearing after so many weeks of suffering and + desolation was almost enough to turn their heads, and more + than one of the stout-hearted pioneers shed tears of joy. Only + a few days before and they could scarcely have believed it + possible to find a spot so lovely.<br> + </p> + <p>But to hungry, more than half starved men, points of + artistic beauty and sober reflections over the terrors of the + past found little place, and their first thought was to + satisfy the cravings of hunger which were assuredly none the + less when they beheld the numerous fat cattle all around them. + There was no one to ask or to buy from and to kill and eat + without permission might be wrong and might get them into + difficulty, but one might as well ask a starving wolf to get + permission to slay and eat when a fat lamb came across his + path as to expect these men to take very much time to hunt up + owners. When life or death are the questions that present + themselves men are not so apt to discuss the right or wrong of + any matter.<br> + </p> + <p>Tom Shannon and a couple of others did not wait long at any + rate, but crawled down the creek bed till they were opposite a + few fine animals and then crept up the bank very near to them. + Two or three shots rang out and as many fine cattle were + brought down. The live cattle ran away and the hungry men soon + had the field to themselves. Much quicker than can be told the + men had fat pieces of meat in their hands which they devoured + without cooking. The men acted like crazy creatures at a + barbacue—each one cut for himself with very little + respect for anyone. The boldest got in first and the more + retiring came in later, but all had enough and gradually + resumed more human actions and appearance.<br> + </p> + <p>They had hardly finished their bloody feast when they saw a + small squad of men on horseback advancing toward them, and as + they came near it was quite plain that they were all armed in + some way. All had lassoes at their saddles, some had + old-fashioned blunderbusses, and nearly every one had a + <i>macheta</i> or long bladed Spanish knife. As the horsemen + drew near they formed into something like military order and + advanced slowly and carefully. It was pretty evident they + thought they were about to encounter a band of thieving + Indians, but as they came closer they recognized the strangers + as Americans and passed the compliments with them in a rather + friendly manner.<br> + </p> + <p>Some of the Jayhawkers had been in the Mexican War and + understood a few words of Spanish, and by a liberal use of + signs were able to communicate with the armed party and tell + them who they were, where they were going, and the unfortunate + condition in which they found themselves. The men did not seem + angry at losing so few of their cattle, and doubtless + considered themselves fortunate in not suffering to the extent + of some hundreds as they did sometimes by Indian raids, and + invited the whole party down to the ranch house of the San + Francisquito Rancho of which this was a part. Arrived at the + house the ranch men brought in a good fat steer which they + killed and told the poor Americans to help themselves and be + welcome. This was on the fourth day of February, 1850.<br> + </p> + <p>The whole party remained here to rest themselves and their + oxen for several days, and were royally entertained by the + people at the ranch. They talked over the plans for the + future, and considered the best course to pursue. They thought + it would be wise to keep their oxen for these would now + improve in flesh, and as they had no money with which to buy + food they might still rely on them in further travels. The + best oxen had survived, for the failing ones were selected to + be killed when they were forced to have food. The weaker of + their comrades had perished in the desert, and the remainder + of the train consisted of the strongest men and the strongest + oxen, and there seemed to be no question but that they could + all live in this country where grass and water were both + abundant, and every sign of more or less wild game.<br> + </p> + <p>Those of the company who had no cattle made their way + directly to Los Angeles, and from thence to the coast from + which most of them reached San Francisco by sailing vessel. + Those who had no money were given a passage on credit, and it + is believed that all such debts were afterwards honestly + paid.<br> + </p> + <p>Capt. Doty made a proposition to buy out the oxen of some + who had only one or two, giving his note for them payable in + San Francisco or anywhere up north they might chance to meet, + and many of them accepted and went to the coast. In this way + Doty secured oxen enough to supply one for each of those who + decided to go with him. They decided to use them for pack + animals to carry their blankets, and to proceed slowly toward + the mines, killing game, if possible, and permitting their + animals to graze and improve in condition as they moved.<br> + </p> + <p>There must have been from twenty-five to forty people + gathered at the ranch. Among them was the Rev. J.W. Brier who + seemed to want to impress it on the new California friends + that he was the man of all others to be honored. The ranchman + was a good Catholic, and Brier tried to make him understand + that he, also, was very devout. He said, and repeated to him + very often—"Me preacher," but he did not + succeed very well in impressing the good Californian with the + dignity of his profession, for he could talk no Spanish and + was not highly gifted in sign language.<br> + </p> + <p>When they went away they had no way to reward their good + friends who had been friends indeed to them. They could only + look their thanks and express themselves in a very few words + of Spanish. "<i>Adios Amigos</i>," said they to the + scantily clothed travelers as they set out on their way to the + mines.<br> + </p> + <p>They followed down the course of the river that flowed + through the valley, the Santa Clara River, and knew that it + would take them to the sea at last. Before they reached the + mission of San Buena Ventura, near the sea, they ran out of + meat again, for they had failed to find game as they had + expected, and Capt. Asa Haynes took the chances of killing a + Spanish cow that looked nice and fat. They camped around the + carcass and ate, and smoked the meat that was left. While thus + engaged two horsemen approached, and after taking a good look + at the proceedings, galloped off again. When the party arrived + at the Mission they were arrested and taken before the alcalde + to give an account of their misdeeds. They realized that they + were now in a bad fix, and either horn of the dilemma was bad + enough. They could not talk Spanish; they had no money; they + had killed somebody's cow; they were very hungry; they might + be willing to pay, but had no way of doing it; they did not + want to languish in jail, and how to get out of it they could + not understand. Luck came to them, however, in the shape of a + man who could speak both English and Spanish, to whom they + told their story and who repeated it to the alcalde, telling + him of their misfortunes and unfortunate condition, and when + that officer found out all the circumstances he promptly + released them as he did not consider them as criminals. The + cow was probably worth no more than ten dollars.<br> + </p> + <p>At Santa Barbara they found a chance to trade off some of + their oxen for mares, which were not considered worth much, + and managed the barter so well that they came out with a horse + apiece and a few dollars besides, with which to buy grub along + the road. They depended mostly on their guns for supplying + them with food. They supposed they were about three hundred + miles from San Francisco, and expected to meet with but few + people except at the Missions, of which they had learned there + were a few along the road. At these there was not much to be + had except dried beef. However, they managed to use the guns + with fair success, and at last arrived safely at Stockton + where they sold some of their horses for more than double what + they cost, and with a small number of horses they packed on to + the gold mines.<br> + </p> + <p>Those of the party who went to Los Angeles managed in one + way or another to get through on schooners, and many of them, + after a year or two of hard work, made some money and returned + to their homes in Illinois. It is hardly necessary to add that + they did not return via Death Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>Some years afterward the members of this party who had + returned to their Eastern homes formed themselves into an + organization which they called the Jayhawkers' Union, + appointed a chairman and secretary, and each year every one + whose name and residence could be obtained was notified to be + present at some designated place on the fourth day of February + which was the date on which they considered they passed from + impending death into a richly promising life. They always had + as good a dinner as Illinois could produce, cooked by the + wives and daughters of the pioneers, and the old tales were + told over again.<br> + </p> + <p>One part of the program was the calling of the roll, and + such reports and letters as had come to hand. The following is + a list of the members of the party so far as can be + ascertained, as gathered from recollections and from the + reports of the meetings of the reunions.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + LIST OF JAYHAWKERS.<br> + </div> + <p>The following named were living, so far as known, in + 1893:—John B. Colton and Alonzo C. Clay, of Galesburg, + Ill., Luther A. Richards, of Woodhull, Ill., Chas. B. Mecum, + of Ripley, Iowa, John W. Plummer, of Tulon, Ill., Edward + Bartholomew, Urban P. Davidson, John Crosscup and L. Dow + Stephens, of San Jose, California, Harrison Frans and Thomas + Shannon, of Los Gatos, Cal., J.W. Brier and wife, Lodi, Cal., + three children of Mr. Brier.<br> + </p> + <p>The following are supposed to be dead:—Ann Haines, + Knoxville, Ill., Sidney P. Edgerton, formerly of Blair, + Nebraska, Thomas McGrew, John Cole, Wm. B. Rude, Wm. Robinson + and Alex. Palmer, of Knoxville, Ill., Marshall B. Edgerton, + late of Galesburg, Ill. Wm. Ischam, of Rochester, N.Y., + Mr.---- Fish, of Oskaloosa, Iowa, John L. West, Aaron Larkin, + Capt. Edwin Doty and Brien Byram, of Knoxville, Ill., Mr.---- + Carter, of Wisconsin, Geo. Allen, Leander Woolsey and Chas. + Clark, of Henderson, Ill., Mr. ---- Gretzinger, of Oskaloosa, + Iowa, and a Frenchman whose name is unknown.<br> + </p> + <p>There were some others connected more or less with the + party at some part of the trip, but not coming in with the + Jayhawker organization. So far as learned, their names are as + follows:—John Galler, Jim Woods and Jim Martin of Miss., + Ed Croker of N.Y., David Funk, Mr. Town, Henry Wade, wife and + three children, Nat Ward, John D. Martin, of Texas, Old + Francis, a Frenchman, Fred Carr and Negro "Joe," + from Miss.<br> + </p> + <p>There were a great many reports about finding rich mines + about this time, and these stories have been magnified and + told in all sorts of ways since then, and parties have + returned to try to find the great riches.<br> + </p> + <p>Among the Jayhawkers were two Germans who could speak but + little English and probably for this reason, kept apart from + the remainder of the party.<br> + </p> + <p>One day, after the wagons were abandoned these German + fellows were marching along alone with their packs on their + backs in the warm sun, suffering very much for want of water + and food, when one of them sat down on a hill-side in pretty + nearly absolute despair, while the other man went down into a + ravine hoping to find a puddle of water in the rocky bottom + somewhere, though it was almost a forlorn hope. All at once he + called out to his partner on the hill—"John, come + down here and get some of this gold. There is a lot of + it." To this poor John Galler only + replied:—"No, I won't come. I don't want any gold, + but I would like very much to have some water and some + bread." And so they left the valuable find and slowly + walked on, pulling through at last with the rest of them, and + reaching Los Angeles.<br> + </p> + <p>The man who found the gold went to the Mission of San Luis + Rey and started a small clothing store, and some time + afterward was killed. John Galler settled in Los Angeles and + established a wagon shop in which he did a successful + business. He was an honest, industrious man and the people had + great confidence in him. He often told them about what his + partner had said about finding the gold in the desert, and the + people gave him an outfit on two or three occasions to go back + and re-locate the find, but he did not seem to have much idea + of location, and when he got back into the desert again things + looked so different to him that he was not able to identify + the place, or to be really certain they were on the same trail + where his companion found the gold.<br> + </p> + <p>The Author saw him in 1862 and heard what he had to say + about it, and is convinced that it was not gold at all which + they saw. I told him that I more than suspected that what he + saw was mica instead of gold and that both he and his partner + had been deceived, for more than one man not used to gold had + been deceived before now. "No sir!" said he, "I + saw lots of gold in Germany, and when I saw that I knew what + it was." The Author went back over that trail in 1862 and + sought out the German on purpose to get information about the + gold. He could not give the name of a single man who was in + the party at that time, but insisted that it was gold he saw + and that he knew the trail.<br> + </p> + <p>The Author was able to identify with reasonable certainty + the trails followed by the different parties, but found no + signs of gold formation except some barren quartz, and this + after an experience of several years in both placer and quartz + mines. So honest John Galler's famous placer mine still + remains in the great list of lost mines, like the Gunsight + Lead and other noted mines for which men have since prospected + in vain.<br> + <br> + </p> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-42598"></a>CHAPTER XIV.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Alexander Combs Erkson was one of the pioneers of 1849, + having left the state of Iowa in the month of May, when he + assisted in organizing a company known as the "Badger + Company" at Kanesville, the object being mutual + assistance and protection. This company joined the Bennett + party mentioned so prominently in this history, at the + Missouri, and traveled with them or near them to the + rendezvous near Salt Lake where the new company was organized + for the southern trip taken by the Death Valley party, the + Jayhawkers and others. As the experience of Mr. Erkson was in + some respects different to that of the parties mentioned, he + having taken a different route for a part of the way, it was + thought best to embody it in this history. The following was + dictated to the editor of this book, and as Mr. Erkson died + before the written account could be revised by him, it is the + best that can possibly be obtained.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + ____________________<br> + <br> + <br> + MR. ERKSON'S STATEMENT.<br> + </div> + <p>"We arrived at the Mormon camp near Salt Lake, Salt + Lake City, in the month of August. Several of us went to work + getting out lumber for Brigham Young while we were waiting and + resting. The mormons all advised us not to undertake to go on + by the northern route, and as the travelers gathered at this + point they canvassed the situation. We used our teams when we + were at work for Brigham and assisted in building a dam across + a cañon where he intended to build a woolen mill. I + earned about a hundred dollars by my work, which was paid to + me in ten-dollar pieces of a gold coin made by the Mormons. + They were not like the U.S. coins. I remember one side had an + eye and the words—"Holiness to the Lord."<br> + </p> + <p>We entered into an agreement with Capt. Hunt, a Mormon, to + pilot us through, and turned all our gold into that company, + thus bringing none of the Mormon gold with us. We went on with + the company as has been related in the foregoing pages, till + we arrived at Mt. Misery, so named by us, when we took the + back track, while Mr. Manley and the others went on as they + have related. We had meetings by the light of a greenwood + fire, and the matter was talked up in little knots of people, + and then some one would get up and speak. One J.W. Brier, a + preacher, was the principal blower. 'You are going wrong!' + said he, We should go west, and in six weeks we will be loaded + with gold!'<br> + </p> + <p>Hunt got a little confused at a place called Beaver + Meadows, or Mountain Meadows, and thought perhaps he could + find a new road. Several men were sent out to look, and some + of us in camp played ball for amusement while we were waiting. + Hunt's men came back and said there were no prospects of a new + road, and he said he knew the southern route and believed it + would be safe to go that way.<br> + </p> + <p>He told us that we must decide the next day. When we came + to the road where we were to separate he filed off on his road + and the others filed off on their road and then came back with + their whips in their hands. I had filed in after Hunt, and + they tried to convince me that I was very wrong. A Mr. Norton + of Adrian, Mich., promised Mrs. Erkson a horse to ride if she + would go, and so I left Hunt and turned in on the other road, + the hindmost wagon. This is going back a little with the + history and bringing it up to Mt. Misery. On my way back from + Mt. Misery I climbed up on a big rock and inscribed the + date—Nov. 10, 1849.<br> + </p> + <p>In our journey we came to what is called 'The rim of the + Basin,' and traveled along on that a distance till we came to + the Santa Clara River and saw where the Indians had raised + corn and melons. We followed on down that stream and found our + teams gradually failing. Noting this we decided to overhaul + our loads and reject a lot of things not strictly necessary to + preserve life. I know I threw out a good many valuable and + pretty things by the roadside. I remember six volumes of + Rollin's Ancient History, nicely bound, with my name on the + back, that were piled up and left. We followed along near the + Santa Clara River till it emptied into the Virgin River. It + was somewhere along here that we first saw some Yucca trees. + The boys often set fire to them to see them burn.<br> + </p> + <p>The Virgin River was a small stream running on about the + course we wanted to travel, and we followed this course for + thirty or forty miles. We found plenty of wood and water and + mesquite. After awhile the river turned off to the left, while + we wanted to keep to the right, so we parted company there. We + heard of a river beyond which they called the 'Big Muddy' and + we went up a little arroyo, then over a divide to some table + land that led us down to the Big Muddy. We made our wagons as + light as possible, taking off all the boards and stakes we + could possibly get along without. Wm. Philipps and others were + placed on short allowance. They had an idea that I had more + provisions in my wagon than I ought to have, but I told them + that it was clothing that we used to sleep on. I divided among + them once or twice. When we reached the Muddy we stopped two + or three days for there was plenty of feed. It was a narrow + stream that seemed as if it must come from springs. It was + narrow between banks, but ran pretty deep, and a streak of fog + marked its course in the morning. We understood it was not + very far from where we left the Virgin River to the Colorado, + some said not more than fourteen miles and that the Colorado + turned sharply to the south at that point. Mr. Rhynierson and + wife had a child born to them on the Virgin River, and it was + named Virginia.<br> + </p> + <p>It was a gloomy trip the whole time on the Muddy. I lost + three or four head of cattle, all within a day and a night. + Mrs. Erkson walked to lighten the load, and would pick all the + bunches of grass she saw and put them on the wagon to feed the + oxen when we stopped. I let them pass me and stopped and fed + the cattle, and slept ourselves. It was said that we ran great + risks from Indians, but we did not see any. I had at this time + only two yoke of oxen left.<br> + </p> + <p>We overtook the party next morning at nine o'clock, having + met some of them who were coming back after us. All were + rejoiced that we had come on safely. Here I met Elisha Bennett + and told him my story. He said he could sell me a yoke of + oxen. He had a yoke in J.A. Philipps' team and was going to + take them out. He said nothing in particular as to price. I + said that I wanted to see Mr. Philipps and talk with him about + the matter, for he had said Bennett should not have the + cattle. I went over to see him and spoke to him about + Bennett's cattle and he told me they had quarreled and I could + have them, and so we made a bargain. I gave twenty dollars for + the cattle, the last money I had, and as much provisions as he + could carry on his back. They were making up a party to reach + the settlements at the Williams ranch, and I made arrangements + for them to send back provisions for us. About thirty started + that way—young men and men with no families with + them.<br> + </p> + <p>I got along very well with my new team after that. It was + about forty miles from water to water, and I think we camped + three times. At one place we found that provisions had been + left, with a notice that the material was for us, but the + red-skins got the provisions. We struck a spring called-----, + a small spring of water, and a child of some of the party died + there and was buried.<br> + </p> + <p>We then went more nearly south to find the Mojave River, + for we hoped to find water there. It was very scarce with us + then, We had one pretty cold day, but generally fine weather, + and to get along we traveled at night and a party struck the + Mojave. Here there was some grass, and the mustard was + beginning to start up and some elder bushes to put forth + leaves. I picked some of the mustard and chewed it to try to + get back my natural taste. Here the party divided, a part + going to the left to San Bernardino and the remainder to the + right to Cucamunga. I was with the latter party and we got + there before night.<br> + </p> + <p>Rhynierson said to one of the party—'Charlie, you had + better hurry on ahead and try to get some meat before the + crowd comes up.' Charlie went on ahead and we drove along at + the regular gait which was not very fast about these times. We + saw nothing of Charlie and so I went to the house to look for + him and found him dead drunk on wine. He had not said a word + to them about provisions. That wine wrecked us all. All had a + little touch of scurvy, and it seemed to be just what we + craved. I bought a big tumbler of it for two bits and carried + it to my wife. She lasted it at first rather gingerly, then + took a little larger sup of it, and then put it to her lips + and never slopped drinking till the last drop was gone. I + looked a little bit surprised and she looked at me and + innocently asked—'Why! Haven't you had any?' I was + afraid she would be the next one to be dead drunk, but it + never affected her in that way at all. We bought a cow here to + kill, and used the meat either fresh or dried, and then went + on to the Williams, or Chino ranch. Col. Williams was glad to + see us, and said we could have everything we wanted. We wanted + to get wheat, for we had lived so long on meat that we craved + such food. He told us about the journey before us and where we + would find places to camp. Here we found one of the Gruwells. + We camped here a week, meeting many emigrants who came by way + of Santa Fe.<br> + </p> + <p>We went on from here to San Gabriel where we staid six + weeks to rest and recuperate the cattle. In the good grass we + found here they all became about as fat as ever in a little + while. Here the party all broke up and no sort of an + organization was kept up beyond here. Some went to Los + Angeles, some went on north, trading off their cattle for + horses, and some went directly to the coast. We went to the + Mission of San Fernando where we got some oranges which were + very good for us. There is a long, tedious hill there to get + over. We made up ten wagons. By the time we reached the San + Francisquito Ranch I had lost my cattle. I went down to this + ranch and there met Mr. and Mrs. Arcane getting ready to go to + San Pedro. We came north by way of Tejon pass and the Kern + River, not far from quite a large lake, and reached the mines + at last. I remember we killed a very fat bear and tried out + the grease, and with this grease and some flour and dried + apples Mrs. Erkson made some pretty good pies which the miners + were glad to get at a dollar and even two dollars + apiece."<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Erkson followed mining for about a year and then went + into other business until he came to Santa Clara Valley and + began farming near Alviso. He has been a highly respected + citizen and progressive man, He died in San Jose in the spring + of 1893.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + ___________________<br> + <br> + <br> + THE EXPERIENCE OF EDWARD COKER.<br> + </div> + <p>Edward Coker was one of a party of twenty-one men who left + their wagons, being impatient of the slow progress made by the + ox train, and organized a pack train in which they were + themselves the burden carriers. They discarded everything not + absolutely necessary to sustain life, packed all their + provisions into knapsacks, bravely shouldered them and started + off on foot from the desert to reach California by the + shortest way.<br> + </p> + <p>Among those whom Mr. Coker can recollect are Capt. Nat. + Ward, Jim Woods, Jim Martin of Missouri, John D. Martin of + Texas, "Old Francis," a French Canadian, Fred Carr, + Negro "Joe" and some others from Coffeeville, Miss., + with others from other states.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Coker related his experience to the Author somewhat as + follows:—<br> + </p> + <p>One other of the party was a colored man who joined us at + the camp when we left the families, he being the only + remaining member of a small party who had followed our wagon + tracks after we had tried to proceed south. This party was + made up of a Mr. Culverwell who had formerly been a writer in + a Government office at Washington, D.C., a man named Fish + claiming to be a relative of Hamilton Fish of New York, and + another man whose name I never knew. He, poor fellow, arrived + at our camp in a starving condition and died before our + departure. The other two unfortunates ones died on the desert, + and the colored man reported that he simply covered their + remains with their blankets.<br> + </p> + <p>I well remember that last night in camp before we started + with our knapsacks and left the families, for it was plain the + women and children must go very slow, and we felt we could go + over rougher and shorter roads on foot and get through sooner + by going straight across the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Our + condition was certainly appalling. We were without water, all + on the verge of starvation, and the three poor cattle which + yet remained alive were objects of pity. It seemed almost a + crime to kill the poor beasts, so little real food was there + left on their skeleton frames. They had been so faithful and + had plodded along when there seemed no hope for them. They + might still serve to keep the party from starvation.<br> + </p> + <p>It was at this camp that Mr. Ischam died. The night before + our departure he came wandering into camp and presented such + an awful appearance, simply a living skeleton of a once grand + and powerful man. He must have suffered untold agony as he + struggled on to overtake the party, starving and alone, with + the knowledge that two of his companions had perished + miserably of starvation in that unknown wilderness of rocks + and alkali.<br> + </p> + <p>Our journey on foot through the mountains was full of + adventure and suffering. On our arrival at the shores of + Owen's Lake not a man of the party had a mouthful of food left + in his pack, and to add to our difficulties we had several + encounters with the hostile Indians. There was a fearful snow + storm falling at Owen's Lake on the evening that we arrived + there, and we could make no fire. The Indians gathered around + us and we did not know exactly what to make of them, nor could + we determine whether their intentions were good or bad. We + examined the lake and determined to try to ford it, and thus + set out by the light of the moon that occasionally peeped out + from behind the clouds, while the red devils stood howling on + the shore.<br> + </p> + <p>The following morning we found what was then known as the + Fremont Trail, and by the advice of some friendly Indians who + came into our camp, we kept the "big trail" for + three days and came to Walker's Pass. While on this trail we + were followed at night by a number of wild Indians, but we + prudently avoided any collisions with them and kept moving on. + Going on through the pass we followed the right hand branch of + the trail, the left hand branch leading more to the south and + across a wide plain. We soon came to a fair-sized stream, now + known to be the south fork of the Kern River, which we + followed until we came to its junction with a larger river, + the two making the Kern River. Here we were taken across by + some friendly Indians who left the Missions farther west + during the Mexican war and took to their own village located + at the foot of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. At this village we + were on exhibition for several hours with an audience of five + hundred people or more, of the red men, and on the following + morning we commenced the ascent of the mountains again, the + Indians furnishing us with a guide in the person of an old + Pi-Ute. He brought us over the range, through the snow and + over the bleak ridges, in the month of December, 1849, and we + made our first camp at an Indian village in Tulare Valley, a + few miles south of where Porterville now stands.<br> + </p> + <p>From this Indian village we walked on until we arrived at + the present site of Millerton on the south bank of the San + Joaquin River. Our sufferings were terrible from hunger, cold, + and wet, for the rains were almost continual at this + elevation, and we had been forced several times to swim. The + sudden change from the dried-up desert to a rainy region was + pretty severe on us. On our arrival at the San Joaquin River + we found a camp of wealthy Mexicans who gave us a small amount + of food, and seemed to want us to pass on that they might be + rid of us. I can well believe that a company of twenty-one + starving men was the cause of some disquietude to them. They + gave us some hides taken from some of the cattle they had + recently slain, and from these we constructed a boat and ferry + rope in which we crossed the river, and then continued our + journey to the mining camp on Aqua Frio, in Mariposa + county.<br> + </p> + <p>It is very strange to think that since that time I have + never met a single man of that party of twenty-one. I had kept + quite full notes of the whole trip from the state of New York + to the mines, and including my early mining experience up to + the year 1851. Unfortunately this manuscript was burned at the + Russ House fire in Fresno, where I also lost many personal + effects."<br> + </p> + <p>In the year 1892 Mr. Coker was living in Fresno, or near + that city, in fairly comfortable health, and it is to be hoped + that the evening of his days, to which all the old pioneers + are rapidly approaching, may be to him all that his brightest + hopes pictured.<br> + </p> + <div align=center> + <img height=302 alt="" src="images/ch_14.png" width=309 + border=0><br> + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-37990"></a>CHAPTER XV.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Having followed the various little parties into which the + great train had resolved itself when it began to feel the + pressure of suffering and trouble which came with contact with + the desert, followed them in their various ways till they came + through to the Pacific Slope, the travels and experiences of + the Author are again resumed.<br> + </p> + <p>It will be remembered that he had rested at Los Angeles, + working for Mr. Brier who had temporarily turned boarding + house keeper, and finally made arrangements with some drovers + to assist in taking a small stock of horses north to the + mines. His story is thus continued:—<br> + </p> + <p>We followed the wagon road which the companies that had + gone on before had made, and got along very well. At night I + acted independently—staked out my mule and ate my meal + of dried meat and crackers—then joined the others around + a large fire, and all seemed to enjoy the company. After a few + days the two men who owned the horses proposed to me to let my + mule carry the provisions, and they wanted me to ride one of + their horses that was not carrying a pack, as they said it + would keep it more gentle to ride it.<br> + </p> + <p>To please the old gentleman from Sacramento I agreed to the + proposition, for I thought perhaps by being accommodating I + could get along more pleasantly.<br> + </p> + <p>Thus we traveled on, over rolling hills covered with grass + and wild flowers, and I was much pleased with all that I could + see. For the first two days we did not pass a house, which + shows how thinly settled the country was. Cattle were often + seen, and sometimes horses, but people were very scarce. In + time we went down a long, steep hill, then across a wide + valley that supported a rank growth of vegetation, and came to + a Mission called San Buena Ventura (good luck.) Here the men + seemed scarce, but Indians and dogs plenty. The houses were of + the same sort as at Los Angeles, except the church, all made + of dried mud, and never more than one story high.<br> + </p> + <p>As we journeyed along we came to the sea shore, the + grandest sight in the world to me, for I had never before seen + the ocean. What a wide piece of water it was! Far out I could + see small waves coming toward the shore, and the nearer they + came the faster they seemed to rush and at last turned into + great rollers and breakers which dashed upon the rocks or + washed far up the sandy shore with a force that made the + ground tremble. There was no wind and I could not see what it + could be that so strangely agitated the water. Here the waves + kept coming, one after another, with as much regularity as the + slow strokes of a clock. This was the first puzzle the great + sea propounded to me, and there under the clear blue sky and + soft air I studied over the ceaseless, restless motion and the + great power that was always beating on the shore. I tasted the + water and found it exceedingly salt, and I did not see how + anything could live in it and not become in the condition of + pickled pork or fish. Where was the salt to make this mighty + brine pond, and why did it keep so when the great rivers kept + pouring in their torrents of fresh waters? I did not + understand, and these are some of the thoughts that came to + the boy who had been raised upon the prairie, and to whom the + great ocean was indeed an unknown sea.<br> + </p> + <p>We followed along the road and in time came to another + village and Mission called Santa Barbara. The village was near + the shore, and the church farther back upon an elevated piece + of ground near the foot of the mountain, overlooking the town + and sea and much of the country to the south, west and east. + The mountain was high and rough, and a point ran out into the + sea making a sort of harbor. This town was built much as the + others had been except perhaps the Mission which seemed + better. The roofs were as flat as the floors and were covered + with a sort of tar which made them water-proof. The material + of the houses was sun-dried bricks, two feet long by one foot + wide and four to six inches thick. There was no lime in the + mortar of this mason work, and the openings in the walls had + iron bars across them instead of sash and glass. Dried hides + were spread upon the floors, and there was a large earthen jar + for water, but not a table, bedstead or chair could be seen in + the rooms we saw. A man came along, rode right in at the door, + turned around and rode out again. The floor was so hard that + the horse's feet made no impression on it. Very few men, quite + a number of Indians, more women, and a still larger quantity + of dogs made up the inhabitants.<br> + </p> + <p>Leaving here the road led back from the sea shore and over + quite a level table land, covered with a big growth of grass + and some timber, and then down to the sandy shore again where + the mountain comes so close that we were crowded down to the + very water's edge. Here the never-tiring waves were still + following each other to the shore and dashing themselves to + pieces with such a noise that I felt awed to silence. What a + strange difference in two parts of the earth so little + distance from each other! Here was a waste of waters, there + was a waste of sands that may some time have been the bottom + of just such a dashing, rolling sea as this. And here, between + the two, was a fertile region covered with trees, grass and + flowers, and watered with brooks of fresh, sweet water. + Paradise and Desolation! They surely were not far apart. Here + I saw some of the queer things that wash on shore, for we + camped close to the beach.<br> + </p> + <p>It was a circumstance of great interest to me to see the + sun slowly go down into the great ocean. Slowly and steadily + it went, getting redder and redder as it went down, then it + just touched the distant water and the waves dashed over more + and more of its face till all was covered. Were it not for the + strong, bright rays that still shot up across the sky one + might think it was drowned forever, but in the morning it came + up over the mountain top, having apparently made half the + circuit of the globe.<br> + </p> + <p>Soon after this the road left the shore and turned into the + mountains. Another Mission was on this road, Santa Ynez, + situated in a beautiful place but apparently in decay, for the + men had gone to the mines, leaving the Indians, women, and + dogs as in other places. San Luis Obispo was another Mission + similarly inhabited, but the surroundings did not seem so + pleasant as those we had seen before, although it bore signs + that considerable had been done. From here our road bore still + more north and we had a long mountain to work over, very + rocky, and in some places barren.<br> + </p> + <p>San Miguel was a Mission situated on the bank of a dry + stream that evidently had seen plenty of water earlier in the + season. The surrounding country was covered with scattering + timber. Soledad was another place where there were some + improvements, located on a small river, but nearly deserted + like the other places. Prospects at the gold mines were so + favorable that every man felt an irresistible desire to enrich + himself, and so they left their families at the Missions and + in the towns and rushed off to the mines. Nearly all of them + expected to return by winter.<br> + </p> + <p>I think I must stop right here and tell about the + California carriages of which I had seen several at Los + Angeles and at the Missions along our road. The first time I + saw one it was a great curiosity, I assure you. The wheels + were cut off the end of a sycamore log a little over two feet + in diameter and each section about a foot long. The axle was a + piece of wood eight inches square with a tongue fastened to it + long enough to be used with a yoke of oxen, and the ends of + the axle were roughly rounded, leaving something of a + shoulder. The wheels were retained in place by a big + lynch-pin. On the axle and tongue was a strong frame of square + hewed timbers answering for bed pieces, and the bottom was of + raw-hide tightly stretched, which covered the whole frame. + Tall stakes at each corner of the frame held up an awning in + hot weather. The yoke was fastened to the horns of the oxen by + strong, narrow strips of raw-hide, and the tongue was fastened + to the yoke in the same way. The driver was generally an + Indian, armed with a small pole six or eight feet long, who + marched on before, the oxen following after. I saw many a + wagon like this, the platform well filled up with women and + children, and a pack of dogs following along behind, slowly + rolling over the country, and this is the way they traveled + when they went visiting friends who lived a few miles in the + country. Sometimes the wheels gave perfectly agonizing shrieks + as they revolved, and when they made so much noise that their + strong Spanish nerves could stand it no longer, if there was + any green grass to be found the drivers would crowd in a + quantity around the axle, and there was generally room for a + good lot of it, to answer for a lubricator.<br> + </p> + <p>We passed on from Soledad and shortly rose into the table + land we had seen for some time before us. From here we could + look north for a long way with no hill or mountain in sight; + but our road led along on the east side of this treeless + plain, so thickly covered with grass that we recalled some of + the old tales of the grassy plains. We passed a landholder's + house on the road, then crossed a range of low mountains and + came to the Mission of San Juan (St. John) situated near the + foot-hills, overlooking a level, rich appearing extent of + valley land with a big vegetable growth all over it; in some + places wild mustard which stood thickly and was from four to + ten feet high. I thought what a splendid place it would be for + the Yankees who are fond of greens.<br> + </p> + <p>This was the first place since we left Los Angeles where we + could buy any kind of breadstuff, and we were here enabled to + get a change of diet, including greens. This seemed to be one + end or side of another valley, and as we went along it seemed + to widen away to the east; but our course was to the north, + and we followed the road. The architecture of all the + buildings except the churches was all the same, being built of + the sun dried adobes or bricks made by mixing up a clay mud + with tough grass and letting it get dry and hard. We saw the + same kind of roof material as before, a sort of mineral tar + which I supposed they must find somewhere about.<br> + </p> + <p>I could imagine why the houses were built in this way, for + when the Jesuit missionaries first came in they found the + country occupied by Indians who used their arrows to good + effect, as they were jealous of all outside occupation. The + early settlers evidently made the walls of their dwellings + thick and strong enough to resist all kinds of weapons used by + Indians. They could not set fire to them for they were fire + proof and arrow proof, and the hostile Indian could dance on + the roof without being able to get in or do any injury. Thus + the poor Indian was fairly beat and eventually became a better + Indian.<br> + </p> + <p>The Indians of what is now Nevada and Arizona used to come + over into these rich valleys and clandestinely capture a band + of a hundred or more head of cattle or horses and make their + escape. They were often followed by the herders, but if they + did not overtake the thieves before they got into the deep + cañons of the mountains, they would usually turn back + and let them go rather than be led into ambush in some strange + narrow place where escape would be impossible and they might + be filled with arrows. No doubt the trail we had followed + across the plains, where there were so many horses' bones, was + one of these trails along which the thieving Indians took + their booty which died upon the trip.<br> + </p> + <p>Our road from here was near the foot-hills on the west side + of a level, grassy, thinly timbered valley, and as we advanced + we noticed that the timber grew more plentiful and the trees + larger, without much underbrush. We also noticed that the + vegetation was ranker and no doubt the soil was very rich. We + then came to a point where the mountain reaches out almost + across the valley to meet the mountain on the east side. Here + we found a gravelly creek with but little water, but as soon + as we passed this point we saw the valley suddenly widening + out, and beautiful groves of live oak trees scattered all + around. The vegetation here was very rank, the mustard ten + feet high in places, making it difficult to see out of the + road. This was perhaps the strongest contrast to the arid + desert that we had seen.<br> + </p> + <p>As we went on down the valley the hills seemed to stand + farther and farther back as if to make more room for those who + would soon settle in this fertile place, and we soon came in + sight of the village or pueblo of San Jose (St. Joseph) where + we camped. Here we learned that the two owners of the horses + intended to go to San Francisco instead of Sacramento, and as + we considered the former place a very poor one for a penniless + person to go we concluded to break up the company camp and + each do the best he could for himself, for our objective point + was the gold mines, and the sooner we reached them the + better.<br> + </p> + <p>The drovers who had been anxious to have us go with them + and help them now began to talk about a settlement with us, as + if they had done us great favors, and called on the other + fellows to help pay for their board upon the way. When they + came to me they said my share would be an ounce. This struck + me hard, but they said I had ridden their horse all the way + and the charge was very low. I told them I had furnished the + most of the provisions I had eaten, and my mule had packed a + good load all the way, which I considered worth as much as the + use of the horse. But they refused to allow me anything for + the use of the mule and became very urgent in their demand for + money.<br> + </p> + <p>These men were evidently of the tribe of Skinflint, who had + no souls, or they would not have attempted to rob an almost + penniless emigrant in this way of the last few dollars he had, + and all the hope he had of reaching the mines. I did not + desire to give up to such narrow principles as this and + hesitated, but they were bound to have the money or make a + quarrel, and talked pretty loud of the way they collected + debts in Sacramento, so that to avoid trouble and get out of + the clutches of such mean scoundrels as these I counted out + sixteen dollars, almost every cent I had, and reluctantly gave + them to my enemy. I immediately mounted my mule, and without + stopping to say goodbye rode off. I may have quoted a part of + the speech Capt Hunt made when the party wanted to leave the + trail and take the cut-off, especially that part where he + alluded to their going to h--l. I very much fear the little + piety my mother taught me was badly strained on that occasion, + and I thought of a good many swear words if I did not say + them, which I suppose is about as bad. I could see how + cunningly they had managed to get me to ride their horse that + it might serve as the foundation for a claim on me for about + all the money I had in the world.<br> + </p> + <p>I hitched my mule in the edge of the town and went in to + look at the place. The houses were situated very much as in + other places we had come through—scattered around over + much ground and built low, but had a different style of roof, + a peaked or sloping one, and covered with half round tile two + feet or more long and an inch thick. One course of these would + be laid with the hollow side up, and then a course with the + hollow side down, covering the joints of the lower course. + This allowed the air to circulate freely and was proof against + rain. I saw no flat roofs such as I had seen down along the + coast. I saw one gambling house and about all the men in town + were gathered there, and some women, too. This was the busiest + place in town and situated near the plaza. This was the + largest town I had yet been in. There seemed to be plenty of + women and lots of dogs, but the men were as scarce as they had + been in any of the towns—gone to the gold mines to make + a stake. I took in the sights pretty well, and there were a + great many new things for me to see, and when pretty well + satisfied concluded I would go back to my mule and camp in + some place just out of town for the night.<br> + </p> + <p>Before I reached my animal whom should I meet but my old + traveling companion John Rogers whom I thought to be a hundred + miles away by this time. We shook hands heartily and he told + me that Bennett, Moody and Skinner were camped not far off, + and he was still with them. He wore a pair of blue overalls, a + blue woolen shirt and the same little narrow rimmed hat he had + worn so long. I observed, too, that he was barefoot, and told + him I had a dollar or two which he could take and get some + shoes. He said it was no use for there was not a pair of shoes + in the town to buy, and he had not found any material of which + he could make himself a pair of moccasins. I told him how I + had been swindled coming up, and he was about as angry as I + had been. I think if I had known that my friend John Rogers + had been so near I should have bidden the rascals an + unceremonious good-bye and we would have been able to hold our + own on a claim for the services of myself and mule.<br> + </p> + <p>We went up to the place where our people were camped, + perhaps a mile above town on the bank of a river, nearly dry, + but where plenty of wood, water and grass were at hand; such a + place as we had looked for in vain for many a weary day upon + the desert. This was as far above Death Valley as a king above + a pauper, and we hoped never to see such a country again.<br> + </p> + <p>In camp we talked about moving on to the mines. Rogers said + he was going to start next day, and in answer to exclamations + of surprise that he should start off alone, he said that some + fellows camped a little way down the river were going to start + and he had made arrangements to go with them, as the Bennett + party would not go yet for a week. In the morning he shook + hands and bade us good-bye and good luck, and started off down + the river bank, lost to us, as it proved, for many years.<br> + </p> + <p>The next day as we were all sitting on the ground I felt a + sort of moving of the earth under me and heard a rumbling + sound that seemed very queer. It seemed there was a motion + also to the trees around us. We all started and looked a + little frightened, and Skinner said he believed it was an + earthquake, for he said he could see the motion in a sort of + wave. It was gone in half a minute. Moody + said:—"How do you like California now?" I said + I thought this part of it was a pretty good place for there + was plenty of wood, water and grass, and that was better than + we had seen in some places.<br> + </p> + <p>He then went on to say that he had heard Mr. Bennett's + story of their sufferings and narrow escape from death, and it + was the most wonderful story he had ever heard. He said the + idea of Mrs. Bennett walking over such a country for + twenty-two days was almost beyond belief, for he would not + have thought her able to walk one-third the distance. He never + knew before how much women could do when they were called to + do it, and they proved in emergencies to be as tough as any + body. He said if he ever got back home he should move to give + them all the rights and privileges of men for sure.<br> + </p> + <p>One day I mounted my mule for a ride to the eastern + foothills, and sat down on a little incline and overlooked the + valley, a beautiful landscape, while my mule cropped the rich + grasses in a circle described by the rope which confined him. + I was always a great admirer of nature, and as I sat there + alone I could see miles on miles of mammoth mustard waving in + the strong breeze which came down over the San Francisco Bay + just visible to the northward, and on the mountain summits to + the west could see tall timber reaching up into the deep blue + of the sky. It was a real contented comfort to be thus in the + midst of luxuriance and beauty, and I enjoyed it, coming as it + did at the end of the long and dreary road I had been + traveling for the past twelve months. Up the Platte; across + the Rockies; down the Green River cañons in my canoe; + across the mountains to Salt Lake; out over the "Rim of + the Basin," and across the desert, guided only by the + fact that we knew the Pacific Ocean was to the west of us, and + choosing our road as best we could in view of the lofty, + snow-clad, impassible mountains; seeing thirteen of our + comrades lie down never to rise again, and, when hope and + strength were almost gone, to suddenly come out into a fertile + region on the seventh of March, 1850. How I wished the fellows + who slept in Death Valley could have seen this view. The + change from all that barrenness and desolation to this + beautiful, fertile country, covered with wild flowers and + luxuriant live oaks, was as strong a contrast as one could + imagine a sudden coming from purgatory to paradise in the + space of a single hour.<br> + </p> + <p>I waked up from my dreamy thoughts, mounted my mule and + rode to camp. As I rode along the nimble ground squirrel, with + his keen black eye, would climb to the top of the high mustard + stalks to get a better view and, suspicious of an enemy within + his almost undisputed territory, disappear in a wink to his + safe underground fortress. Fat cattle and horses would appear + before me a moment, and then, with a wild look and high heads, + dash through the tall mustard out of sight.<br> + </p> + <p>Next day my trip was toward the western hills, and before I + came to them was confronted with an extensive stretch of + chaparral brush, absolutely impenetrable, which I must go + around or stop my progress in this direction. These thickets + were a regular paradise for grizzly bears, for within the + protection of this matted and thorny growth he is as safe as + is the soldier in the rocky fort of Gibraltar. I soon found a + way around the brush and rose high enough so that a backward + look over the valley was charming, quite as much so as the + eastern side. I wandered over the grassy hills covered with + great scattering oaks, and came to a grove of mammoth trees, + six feet or more in diameter, with tops reaching two hundred + or three hundred feet toward the blue sky. They seemed to me + to be a kind of cedar, and were far larger and taller than any + trees I had ever seen in the forests of Vermont, Michigan or + Wisconsin, and in my long journey from the East the route had + been principally through a country devoid of good timber. A + stranger in a strange land, everything was new and wonderful. + After satisfying my inquiring mind I returned to camp again, + and soon learned that my newly discovered trees were the + famous redwoods, so greatly prized for their valuable + qualities.<br> + </p> + <p>Taking the most direct course to camp I came, when within + two or three miles of San Jose, to a large extent of willows + so thick, and so thickly woven together with wild blackberry + vines, wild roses and other thorny plants, that it appeared at + first as if I never could get through. But I found a winding + trail made by the cattle through the bushes and mustard, and + this I followed, being nearly scared occasionally by some wild + steers as they rushed off through the thickets. I got through + safely, though it would have been difficult to escape a wild, + enraged steer, or a grizzly had I met him face to face even + with a rifle in hand. I could see nowhere but by looking + straight up, for the willows were in places fifty feet high + and a foot in diameter. The willows where I came from were + mere bushes, and these astonished me. This bit of brush is + still locally known as "The Willows," but the trees + are all gone, and the ground thickly covered with orchards and + fine residences, the land selling at from one thousand to two + thousand dollars per acre.<br> + </p> + <p>The sun rose without a cloud, and a little later the sea + breeze from the bay blew gently over the valley, making the + climate perfectly delightful in its temperate coolness, a true + paradise on earth it seemed to me, if I was able to judge or + set a value upon so beautiful a spot; and surely I had seen + all sorts, good and poor, desert and valley, mountain and + plain.<br> + </p> + <p>But I was poor in purse, and resolved I would seek first + the gold mines and secure gold enough to buy a piece of this + valley afterward.<br> + </p> + <p>When I had seen what was to be seen about San Jose I had a + talk with my friends and found that Mr. Bennett favored going + on to the mines at once and that Moody and Skinner thought + they would remain a little while at least.<br> + </p> + <p>I went along in company with Bennett, and when we got a + little way from San Jose, on the road to the Mission, the road + seemed walled in on both sides with growing mustard ten or + twelve feet high and all in blossom. How so much mustard could + grow, and grow so large, I could not understand. I had seen a + few plants in the gardens or fields which people used for + greens, and here seemed to be enough to feed the nation, if + they liked mustard greens.<br> + </p> + <p>The second day out we passed the big church at Mission San + Jose and soon left the valley and turned into the mountains + and when part way over we came to a stream which we followed + up and came out into Livermore valley, where we found a road + to follow. Houses were scarce, and we camped a mile or so + before we got to the Livermore ranch buildings. There was very + little sign of life about the place, and we soon went out of + the valley and into the mountains again.<br> + </p> + <p>The first sign of settlement we saw when part way through + the mountains was a stone corral, but no house or other + improvements. The next place was a small house made of willow + poles set in the ground and plastered over with mud. This + rejoiced in the name of "Mountain House." This + wayside inn looked like a horse thief's glory; only one or two + men, a quarter of an elk hanging on a pole, and no + accommodations for man or beast. There was very little water, + nothing to sell as well as nothing wanted. On the summits of + the mountains as we passed through we saw, standing like + guards, many large buck elks.<br> + </p> + <p>It was now fifteen miles to the San Joaquin river, and a + level plain lay before us. When our road turned into the river + bottom we found the water too deep to get through safely, so + we concluded to go on and try to find some place where we + could cross. On our way droves of antelopes could be seen + frolicking over the broad plains, while in the distance were + herds of elk winding their way from the mountains towards the + river for water. When far away their horns were the first + things visible, and they much resembled the dry tops of dead + pine trees, but a nearer view showed them to us as the proud + monarchs of the plain.<br> + </p> + <p>When we came up opposite the mouth of the Merced river we + concluded to try again to cross. The river here, as below, was + out of its banks, and the overflowed part was quite wide which + we had to pass through before we could reach the river + proper.<br> + </p> + <p>I waded in ahead of the team and sounded the depth of the + river so as not to get in too deep water, and avoid if + possible such accidents as might otherwise occur. Sometimes + the water was up to the wagon bed and it looked a little + doubtful of our getting through in safety, but we made it at + last.<br> + </p> + <p>We found a narrow strip of dry land along the river bank. A + town was on the east side of the San Joaquin. river, just + below where the Merced river came in. I think this place was + called Merced City. This so-called city contained but one + residence, a tent occupied by the ferryman. We crossed the + sluggish stream and for the privilege paid the ferryman, ten + dollars for toll. The road was not much used and the ferry + business seemed lonesome.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we camped for the night. The mosquitoes soon found us, + and they were all very hungry and had good teeth. They annoyed + me so that I moved my lodgings to the ferryboat, but here they + quickly found me and troubled me all night. These insects were + the first I had seen since I left the lower Platte river, and + I thought them as bad as on the Mississippi.<br> + </p> + <p>From here the road led up the Merced river near the bottom, + and as we came near groves of willows, big, stately elk would + start out and trot off proudly into the open plains to avoid + danger. These proud, big-horned monarchs of the plains could + be seen in bunches scattered over the broad meadows, as well + as an equal amount of antelope. They all seemed to fear us, + which was wise on their part, and kept out of rifle shot. As + were not starving as we were once, I did not follow them out + on the open plain, for I thought I could get meat when we were + more in need.<br> + </p> + <p>We followed up the river bottom and saw not a single house + until we reached the road leading from Stockton to the + Mariposa mines, where we found a ferry and a small store. Here + we learned that some men were mining a few miles up the river, + so we drove on until we found a little work being done in a + dry gulch near the river bank. We made our camp at this spot + and had plenty of wood, water and grass. We found there was + something to be learned in the art of gold mining. We had no + tools nor money, and had never seen a speck of native gold and + did not know how to separate it from the dirt nor where to + search for it. We were poor, ignorant emigrants. There were + two or three men camped here. One of them was more social than + the rest and we soon got acquainted. His name was Williams, + from Missouri. He came down to the river with a pan of dirt, + and seeing me in my ignorance trying to wash some as well, he + took the pan from me and very kindly showed me how to work so + as to let the dirt go and save the gold. When he had the pan + finished a few small, bright scales remained. These to me were + curious little follows and I examined them closely and + concluded there was a vast difference between gold and lead + mining. Williams became more friendly and we told him + something about our journey across the plains, and he seemed + to think that we deserved a good claim. He went to a dry gulch + where a Spaniard was working and told him that all of + California, now that the war was over, belonged to Americans + and he must leave. Williams had his gun in his hand and war + might follow, so Mr. Spaniard left and his claim was presented + to Bennett and myself.<br> + </p> + <p>Williams had been twice to Santa Fe from Missouri and had + learned the Spanish language and could swear at them by note + if necessary. We now began work almost without tools, but our + ground we had to work was quite shallow and Williams helped us + out by loaning us some of his tools at times. We soon + succeeded in scratching together some of the yellow stuff and + I went down to the store and bought a pan for five dollars, a + shovel for ten dollars, and a poor pick cost me ten dollars + more. This took about two ounces of my money.<br> + </p> + <p>We now worked harder than ever for about three weeks, but + we could not save much and pay such high prices as were + charged. Our gulch claim was soon worked out, and as the river + had fallen some we tried the bar, but we could only make four + or five dollars a day, and the gold was very fine and hard to + save. We bought a hind quarter of an elk and hung it up in a + tree and it kept fresh till all of it was eaten.<br> + </p> + <p>Some others came and took up claims on the bar, and as the + prospects were not as good as was wished, three of us + concluded to go and try to find a better place. The next day + was Sunday and all lay in bed late. Before I rose I felt + something crawling on my breast, and when I looked I found it + to be an insect, slow in motion, resembling a louse, but + larger. He was a new emigrant to me and I wondered what he + was. I now took off my pants and found many of his kind in the + seams. I murdered all I could find, and when I got up I told + Williams what I had found. He said they hurt nobody and were + called <i>piojos</i>, more commonly known as body lice.<br> + </p> + <p>We started on our prospecting tour and went northeast to a + place now called Big Oak Flat. This was at the head of a small + stream and there were several small gulches that emptied into + it that paid well. This flat was all taken up and a ditch was + cut through to drain it. A ship load of gold was expected to + be found when it was worked. A small town of tents had been + pitched on both sides of the flat. One side was occupied by + gamblers, and many games were constantly carried on and were + well patronized. On the opposite side of the flat were many + small tents, and around on the hillside some mules and jacks + were feeding. One of the little long-eared donkeys came down + among the tents and went in one and commenced eating flour + from the sack. The owner of the flour ran to the tent, took + his shot gun and fired a load of buck-shot into the donkey's + hams. The animal reeled and seemed shot fatally. I now looked + for a battle to commence, but the parties were more + reasonable. The price of the animal was fully paid, and no + blood shed as I expected there surely would be.<br> + </p> + <p>We now prospected further east, but nothing good enough was + found. The place we looked over was where the town of Garota + now stands. We concluded to go back, have a council, and go + somewhere else. On our way back we stopped to get dinner. + While I was around the fire, barefooted, I felt something + crawl up my instep, and it proved to be another of those + <i>piojos</i> of Williams'. I now thought these torments must + be all over this country.<br> + </p> + <p>Gold dust was used to transact all business; all the coin + was in the hands of the gentlemen gamblers. Most miners found + it necessary to have a small pair of scales in the breast + pocket to weigh the dust so as not to have to trust some one + who carried lead weights and often got more than his just + dues. Gold dust was valued at sixteen dollars an ounce.<br> + </p> + <p>We now thought it would be best for two of us to take our + mules and go down in the small hills and try to get some elk + meat to take with us, as our route would be mostly through the + unsettled part of the country, and no provisions could likely + be procured, so Mr. Bradford of New Orleans and myself took + our mules and went down where the hills were low and the game + plenty. We camped in a low ravine, staked out our mules and + staid all night without a fire, believing that when we woke in + the early morning some of the many herd of elk then in sight + would be near us at daylight, and we could easily kill all we + wanted without leaving camp; but we were disappointed. + Hundreds of the big-horned fellows were in sight, but none in + rifle shot, and there was no chance for us to get any nearer + to them. We got near a couple of antelope and Mr. Bradford, + who was a brag shot and had the best gun, proposed to kill + them as we stood. The larger of the two was on his side and + much nearer than the smaller one, but we fired together just + as we stood. Bradford's antelope ran off unhurt: mine fell + dead in its tracks. Bradford bragged no more about his fine + gun and superior marksmanship.<br> + </p> + <p>We went back to camp with the little we had killed and soon + got ready to start north. Bennett was to go with his team to + Sacramento and wait there until he heard from us.<br> + </p> + <p>Four of us, mounted on mules, now started on our journey + along the foothills without a road. We struck the Tuolumne + river at a ferry. The stream was high and rapid and could not + be forded, so we had to patronize the ferryman, and give him + half an ounce apiece. We thought such charges on poor and + almost penniless emigrants were unjust.<br> + </p> + <p>The point we were seeking to reach was a new discovery + called Gold Lake on Feather River, where many rich gulches + that emptied into it had been worked, and the lake was + believed to have at least a ship load of gold in it. It was + located high in the mountains and could be easily drained and + a fortune soon obtained if we got there in time and said + nothing to anyone we might meet on the road. We might succeed + in getting a claim before they were all taken up. We followed + along the foothills without a road, and when we came to the + Stanislaus River we had to patronize a ferry and pay half an + ounce each again. We thought their scale weights were rather + heavy and their ferrymen well paid.<br> + </p> + <p>We continued along the foothills without any trail until we + struck the road from Sacramento to Hangtown. This sounded like + a bad name for a good village, but we found it was fittingly + named after some ugly devils who were hanged there. The first + house that we came to on this road was the Mormon Tavern. Here + were some men playing cards for money, and two boys, twelve or + fourteen years old, playing poker for the same and trying in + every way to ape the older gamblers and bet their money as + freely and swear as loud as the old sports. All I saw was new + and strange to me and became indelibly fixed on my mind. I had + never before seen such wicked boys, and the men paid no + attention to these fast American boys. I began to wonder if + all the people in California were like these, bad and + wicked.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we learned that Gold Lake was not as rich as reported, + so we concluded to take the road and go to Coloma, the place + where gold was first found on the American River.<br> + </p> + <p>We camped at Coloma all night. Mr. Bradford got his mule + shod and paid sixteen dollars, or in the mining phrase, an + ounce of gold dust. I visited the small town and found that + the only lively business place in it was a large gambling + house, and I saw money (gold dust) liberally + used—sometimes hundreds of dollars bet on a single card. + When a few hundred or thousand were lost more would be brought + on. The purse would be set in the center of the table and the + owners would take perhaps twenty silver dollars or checks, and + when they were lost the deposited purse would be handed to the + barkeeper, the amount weighed out and the purse returned. When + the purse was empty a friend of the better would bring + another, and so the game went on almost in silence. The game + called Monte seemed to be the favorite. How long these sacks + of gold lasted or who eventually got the whole I never knew. + This was a new country with new people, and many seemed to be + engaged in a business that was new, strange and hazardous. The + final result of all this was what puzzled me.<br> + </p> + <p>We now followed the road up the mountain to Georgetown. + Here was a small village on the summit of the ridge and it + seemed to be in a prosperous mining section. After some + inquiry about a good place to work we concluded to go down a + couple of miles northeast of town on Cañon creek and go + to work if vacant ground could be found. There was a piece of + creek bottom here that had not been much worked. Georgia Flat + above had been worked and paid well, and the Illinois and + Oregon cañons that emptied into the bottom here were + rich, so we concluded to locate in the bottom. Claims here in + the flat were only fifteen feet square. I located one and my + notice told others that I would go to work on it as soon my + partner came from Sacramento. I sent my partner, Mr. Bennett a + note telling him to come up.<br> + </p> + <p>While waiting for Mr. Bennett I took my pan and butcher + knife and went into a dry gulch out of sight of the other + campers and began work. As the ground was mostly bare bed rock + by scratching around I succeeded in getting three or four pans + of dirt a day. The few days I had to wait for Bennett I made + eight dollars a day until my claim was worked out.<br> + </p> + <p>I then went to Georgetown to meet Bennett and family, and + soon after my arrival they came well and safe. All of them, + even to the faithful camp dog, Cuff, were glad to see me. Old + Cuff followed me all around town, but when we got ready to + start for camp the dog was gone and could not be found. Some + one had hidden him away knowing he could not be gotten any + other way, for six ounces would not have bought him. We had + raised him in Wisconsin, made him a good deer dog, and with us + he had crossed the dry and sandy deserts. He had been a great + protection to Bennett's children on the plains, and company + for us all.<br> + </p> + <p>We now located claims on the creek bottom. The channel of + the creek was claimed by Holman of Alabama and the Helms + brothers of Missouri. They had turned the stream into a ditch + in order to work the bed of the stream, believing that their + claims had all the gold in them. Our claims joined theirs.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. W.M. Stockton, who left his family in Los Angeles, came + with Mr. Bennett and went to work with us. As everything here + was very high we concluded to let Mr. Stockton take the team + and go to Sacramento for provisions for our own use. Flour and + meat were each fifty cents a pound, potatoes twenty-five cents + a pound and onions one dollar and twenty-five cents each. + Onions and potatoes eaten raw were considered very necessary + to prevent and cure scurvy, which was quite a common + complaint. Whiskey, if not watered, cost one dollar a + drink.<br> + </p> + <p>Our claims were about ten feet deep. The bottom was wet and + a pump needed, so we went to a whip saw-mill and got four + narrow strips one by three and one by five and twelve feet + long, paying for them by weight, the price being twelve cents + a pound. Out of these strips we made a good pump by fixing a + valve at the end and nailing a piece of green rawhide on a + pole, which answered for a plunger, and with the pump set at + forty-five degrees it worked easily and well. One man could + easily keep the water out and we made fair wages.<br> + </p> + <p>In the creek bottom Mr. Bush of Missouri had a saloon. The + building was made mainly of brush, with a split piece for a + counter, and another one for a shelf for his whiskey keg, a + box of cigars, a few decks of cards and half a dozen glasses, + which made up the entire stock of trade for the shop. In front + was a table made of two puncheons with a blanket thrown over + all, and a few rough seats around. There was no roof except + the brush, and through the dry season none was needed except + for shade.<br> + </p> + <p>There was also at this place five brothers by the name of + Helms, also from Missouri. Their names were Jim, Davenport, + Wade, Chet and Daunt. These men, with Mr. Holman, owned the + bed of the stream, and their ground proved to be quite wet and + disagreeable to work. Mr. Holman could not well stand to work + in the cold water, so he asked the privilege of putting in a + hired man in his place, which was agreed to. He then took up a + claim for himself outside of the other claims, and this proved + to be on higher bed rock and dry, and paid even better than + the low claims where the Helms brothers were at work. This was + not what the Helms boys considered exactly fair, as Holman + seemed to be getting rich the fastest, and as there was no law + to govern them they held a free country court of their own, + and decided the case to suit themselves; so they ordered + Holman to come back and do his own work. No fault was found + with the hired man but what he did his work well enough, but + they were jealous and would not be bound by their + agreement.<br> + </p> + <p>But this decision did not satisfy all parties, and it was + agreed to submit the case to three men, and I was chosen one + of them. We held Court on the ground and heard both sides of + the story, after which we retired to the shade of a bunch of + willows to hold council over the matter with the result that + we soon came to a decision in favor of Mr. Holman. About this + time one of the Helms boys began to quarrel with Holman and + grew terribly mad, swearing all kinds of vengeance, and making + the cañon ring with the loudest kind of Missouri oaths. + Finally he picked up a rock to kill Holman, but the latter was + quick with his pistol, a single shot duelling piece, and as + they were not more than ten feet apart Helms would have had a + hole in him large enough for daylight to shine through if the + pistol had not missed fire. We stopped the quarrel and made + known our decision, whereupon Helms went off muttering + vengeance.<br> + </p> + <p>We now went back to our work again at our claims, mine + being between Helms' cabin and the saloon. Holman stopped to + talk a little while on my claim, while I was down below at + work, and soon Helms came back again in a terrible rage, + stopping on the opposite side of the hole from Holman, + swearing long and loud, and flourishing a big pistol with + which he threatened to blow Holman into purgatory. He was so + much enraged that he fairly frothed at the mouth like a rabid + dog. The men were about twenty feet apart, and I at the bottom + of the hole ten feet below, but exactly between them. It + seemed to me that I was in some little danger for Helms had + his big pistol at full cock, and as it pointed at me quite as + often as it did at anybody, I expect I dodged around a little + to keep out of range. Helms was terribly nervous, and trembled + as he cursed, but Holman was cool and drew his weapon + deliberately, daring Helms to raise his hand or he would kill + him on the instant. Helms now began to back off, but carefully + kept his eye on Holman and continued his abuse as he went on + to the saloon to get something to replenish his courage. + Holman, during the whole affair, talked very calmly and put + considerable emphasis into his words when he dared Helms to + make a hostile motion. He was a true Alabamian and could be + neither scared nor driven. He soon sold out, however, and went + to a more congenial camp for he said these people were + cowardly enough to waylay and kill him unawares.<br> + </p> + <p>Soon after this unpleasantness a man and wife who lived in + Georgetown came into notice, and while the man made some money + mining his wife did a good stroke of business washing for the + boys who paid her a dollar a shirt as laundry fees. As she + began to make considerable money the bigger, if not better, + half of this couple began to feel quite rich and went off on a + drunk, and when his own money was spent he went to his wife + for more, but she refused him, and he, in his drunken rage, + picked up a gun near by and shot her dead.<br> + </p> + <p>All of a sudden the Helms boys and others gathered at the + saloon, took drinks all around, and did a good deal of + swearing, which was the biggest portion of the proceedings of + the meeting; and then they all started off toward town, + swearing and yelling as they struggled up the steep mountain + side—a pack of reckless, back-woods Missourians who + seemed to smell something bloody.<br> + </p> + <p>It was near night when they all came back and gathered + around the saloon again. They were all in unusual good humor + as they related the adventures of the afternoon, and bragged + of their bravery and skill in performing the little job they + had just completed, which consisted in taking the murderer out + to the first convenient oak tree, and with the assistance of + some sailors in handling the ropes, hoisting the fellow from + the ground with a noose around his neck, and to the + "Heave, yo heave" of the sailor boys, pulling the + rope that had been passed over an elevated limb. They watched + the suspended body till the last spark of life went out, and + then went back to town leaving the corpse hanging for somebody + else to cut down and bury. They whooped and yelled at the top + of their voices as they came down along the mountain trail, + and at the saloon they related to the crowd that had gathered + there how they had helped to hang the ---- who had killed his + wife. They said justice must be done if there was no law, and + that no man could kill a woman and live in California. They + imagined they were very important individuals, and veritable + lords of Creation.<br> + </p> + <p>These miners, many of them, were inveterate gamblers and + played every night till near day-light, with no roof over + them, and their only clothes a woolen shirt and overalls which + must have been a little scanty in the cool nights which + settled down over the mountain camp; but they bore it all in + their great desire for card playing.<br> + </p> + <p>Near by there were three men who worked and slept together, + every night dividing the dust which each put into a purse at + the head of his bed. One day the news came to the saloon that + one of the purses had been stolen. The Helms boys talked it + over and concluded that as one of the men had gone to town, he + might know something about the lost dust; so they went to town + and there, after a little search, found their man in a + gambling house. After a little while they invited him to + return to camp with them, and all started together down the + mountain; but when about half way down they halted suddenly + under an oak tree and accused their man of knowing where his + partner's money was. This he strongly denied, and was very + positive in his denial till he felt the surprise of a rope + around his neck, with the end over a limb, and beginning to + haul pretty taut in a direction that would soon elevate his + body from the ground, when he weakened at their earnestness + and asked them to hold on a minute. As the rope slackened he + owned up he had the dust and would give it up if they would + not send the news to his folks in Missouri. This was agreed to + and the thief was advised to leave at once for some distant + camp, or they might yet expose him. He was not seen + afterward.<br> + </p> + <p>The boys bragged a good deal of their detective ability + after this, and said that a little hanging would make a ---- + thief tell the truth even if it did not make an honest man of + him, and that a thief would be lucky if he got through with + them and saved his life. Their law was "Hanging for + stealing."<br> + </p> + <p>The Helms brothers were said to be from western Missouri, + and in early days were somewhat of the border ruffian order, + and of course preferred to live on the frontier rather than in + any well regulated society. As the country became settled and + improved around them they moved on. A school house was an + indication that the country was getting too far advanced for + them.<br> + </p> + <p>They crossed the plains in 1849 and began mining operations + near Georgetown in Placer county. It was well known that they + were foremost in all gambling, and in taking a hand in any + excitement that came up, and as a better class of miners came + in they moved on, keeping ahead with the prospectors, and just + out of reach of law and order. If anyone else committed a + crime they were always quite eager to be on the vigilance + committee, and were remarkably happy when punishing a + wrong-doer. When any of their number was suspected it was + generally the case that they moved quickly on and so escaped. + It was reported, however, that one of their number was in the + hands of the vigilance committee and hanged in Montana.<br> + </p> + <p>After a time, it is said, they went down to southern + California and settled on the border of the Colorado desert, + about seventy-five miles east of San Diego, in a mountainous + and desert region. Here they found a small tribe of Indians, + and by each marrying a squaw they secured rights equal to any + of them in the occupation of the land. This was considered + pretty sharp practice, but it suited them and they became big + chiefs and midecine men, and numerous dusky descendants grew + up around them.<br> + </p> + <p>It is said that their property consists of extensive + pasture lands on which they raise cattle, and that they always + go well armed with pistol, rifle and riata. It is said that + some of the Indians undertook to claim that the Helms brothers + were intruders, but that in some mysterious way accidents + happened to most of them and they were left without any + serious opposition.<br> + </p> + <p>They are very hospitable and entertaining to people who + visit them, provided they do not know too much about the men + or their former deeds or history. In this case ignorance is + bliss and it is folly, if not dangerous, to be too wise. They + have made no improvements, but live in about the same style as + the Indians and about on a level with them morally and + intellectually.<br> + </p> + <p>There may be those who know them well, but the writer only + knows them by hearsay and introduces them as a certain type of + character found in the early days.<br> + </p> + <p>As I was now about barefoot I went to town to look for + boots or shoes. There were no shoes, and a pair of the + cheapest boots I found hanging at the door were priced to me + at two ounces. This seemed a wonderful sum for a pair of + coarse cow-hide boots that would sell in the state for two + dollars and fifty cents; but I had to buy them at the price or + go barefoot.<br> + </p> + <p>While rambling around town I went into a round tent used as + a gambling saloon. The occupants were mostly men, and one or + two nice appearing ladies, but perhaps of doubtful reputation. + The men were of all classes—lawyer, doctors, preachers + and such others as wanted to make money without work. The + miners, especially sailors, were eager to try to beat the + games. While I was here the table was only occupied by a + sailor lying upon it and covered with a green blanket. All at + once the fellow noticed a large <i>piojo</i> walking slowly + across the table, and drawing his sheath knife made a + desperate stab at him, saying "You kind of a deck hand + can't play at this game."<br> + </p> + <p>Our claims, by this time were nearly worked out, and I + thought that I had upward of two thousand dollars in gold, and + the pile looked pretty big to me. It seemed to me that these + mines were very shallow and would soon be worked out, at least + in a year or two. I could not see that the land would be good + for much for farming when no irrigation could be easily got, + and the Spanish people seemed to own all the best land as well + as the water; so that a poor fellow like myself would never + get rich at farming here.<br> + </p> + <p>Seeing the matter in this light I thought it would be best + to take my money and go back to Wisconsin where government + land was good and plenty, and with even my little pile I could + soon be master of a good farm in a healthy country, and I + would there be rich enough. Thus reasoning I decided to return + to Wisconsin, for I could not see how a man could ever be a + successful farmer in a country where there were only two + seasons, one wet and the other long and dry.<br> + </p> + <p>I went out and hunted up my mule which I had turned out to + pasture for herself, and found her entirely alone. After a + little coaxing I caught her and brought her with me to camp, + where I offered her for sale. She was sleek and fat and looked + so well that Helms said that if I could beat him shooting he + would buy both mule and gun; so three or four of us tried our + skill. My opponents boasted a good deal of their superior + marksmanship, but on the trial, which began at short range, I + beat them all pretty badly. Helms was as good as his word and + offered me twelve ounces for my gun and mule, which I took. I + thought a great deal of my fat little one-eyed mule, and I + thought then, as I think now, how well she did her part on the + fearful road to and from Death Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>Helms was now going to the valley to have a winter's hunt, + for here the snow would fall four feet deep and no mining work + could be done till spring, when he would return and work his + claim again.<br> + </p> + <p>I now had all in my pocket, and when I got ready to go Mrs. + Bennett was much affected at knowing that I would now leave + them, perhaps never to return to them again. She clasped me in + her arms, embraced me as she would her own son, and said + "Good luck to you—God bless you, for I know that + you saved all our lives. I don't suppose you will ever come + back, but we may come back to Wisconsin sometime and we will + try to find a better road than the one we came over. Give my + best regards to all who inquire after us." She shook my + hand again and again with earnest pressure, and cried and + sobbed bitterly. As I climbed the mountain she stood and + watched me so long as I was in sight, and with her + handkerchief waved a final adieu. I was myself much affected + at this parting, for with Mr. and Mrs. Bennett had been really + a home to me; she had been to me as a mother, and it was like + leaving a home fireside to go away from them. I was now + starting out among strangers, and those I should meet might be + the same good friends as those whom I had left behind. Mr. + Bennett and I had for many years been hunting companions; I + had lived at his house in the East, and we never disagreed but + had always been good friends. I had now a traveling companion + whose home was in Iowa Co., Wis., where I had lived for + several years, and we went along together by way of Greenwood + where there was a small mining town built of tents, many of + which were used as gambling places. These places were occupied + by gentlemen, some of whom wore white shirts to distinguish + them, I presume, from the common herd of miners from whom they + won their dust.<br> + </p> + <p>We crossed the American River at Salmon Falls, and walked + thence on to Sacramento City, which was the largest town we + had seen on the coast. The houses were all small wooden ones, + but business seemed to be brisk, and whiskey shops and + gambling houses plenty. One game played with three cards, + called three card Monte, was played openly on the streets, + with goods boxes for tables. Every one who came along was + urged to bet by the dealer who would lay out his cards face up + so all could see them, then turn them over and shuffle them + and say "I'll bet six ounces that no one can put his + finger on the queen." I watched this a while and saw that + the dealer won much oftener than he lost, and it seemed to be + a simple and easy way to make a living when money was + plenty.<br> + </p> + <p>We strolled around town looking at the sights, and the + different business places, the most lively of which had plenty + of music inside, lots of tables with plenty of money on them, + and many questionable lady occupants. These business places + were liberally patronized and every department flourishing, + especially the bar. Oaths and vulgar language were the + favorite style of speech, and very many of the people had all + the whiskey down them that they could conveniently carry.<br> + </p> + <p>We got through the town safely and at the river we found a + steamboat bound for San Francisco and the fare was two ounces. + The runners were calling loudly for passengers, and we were + told we could never make the trip any cheaper for they had + received a telegram from below saying that no boat would come + up again for two days. I said to him "I can't see your + telegram. Where is it?" At this he turned and left us. He + had thought, no doubt, that miners were green enough to + believe anything. In the course of an hour the smoke of a + steamer was seen down the river, and this beat out the runners + who now offered passage for half an ounce.<br> + </p> + <p>At this time there was no telegraph and the delay was a + lucky one for us. We took passage and went to San Francisco + that night, where we put up at a cheap tavern near where the + Custom House now stands.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we learned that we would have to wait two days before + a ship would sail for Panama, and during this time we surveyed + the town from the hill-tops and walked all over the principal + streets. It was really a small, poorly built, dirty looking + place, with few wharves, poor, cheap hotels, and very rough + inhabitants. There were lots of gambling houses full of tables + holding money, and the rooms filled with pretty rough looking + people, except the card dealers, most of whom wore white + shirts, and a few sported plug hats. There was also a + "right smart sprinkling" of ladies present who were + well dressed and adorned with rich jewelry, and their position + seemed to be that of paying teller at the gambling tables.<br> + </p> + <p>The buildings seemed to be rather cheap, although material + was very expensive, as well as labor, mechanics of all sorts + getting as much as ten or twelve dollars per day for work. + Coin seemed to be scarce, and a great deal of the money needed + on the gambling tables was represented by iron washers, each + of which represented an ounce of gold.<br> + </p> + <p>I noticed some places in the streets where it was muddy and + a narrow walk had been made out of boxes of tobacco, and + sometimes even bacon was used for the same purpose. + Transportation from the city to the mines was very slow and + made by schooner. Ship loads of merchandise had arrived and + been unloaded, and the sailors having run away to the mines, + everything except whiskey and cards was neglected. Whiskey + sold at this place for fifty cents a drink.<br> + </p> + <p>A man at the tavern where we stopped tried hard to sell me + a fifty-vara lot there in the edge of the mud (near where the + Custom House now stands) for six hundred dollars. I thought + this a pretty high price and besides such a lot was no use to + me, for I had never lived in town and could not so easily see + the uses to which such property could be put. It seemed very + doubtful to me that this place would ever be much larger or + amount to much, for it evidently depended on the mines for a + support, and these were so shallow that it looked as if they + would be worked out in a short time and the country and town + both be deserted. And I was not alone in thinking that the + country would soon be deserted, for accustomed as we all had + been to a showery summer, these dry seasons would seem + entirely to prevent extensive farming. Some cursed the country + and said they were on their way to "good old Missouri, + God's own country." Hearing so much I concluded it would + be wise not to invest, but to get me back to Wisconsin + again.<br> + </p> + <p>The steamer we took passage in was the Northerner, + advertised to sail on the twenty-ninth day of November, 1850. + The cabin room was all engaged, and they charged us nine + ounces for steerage passage; but I did not care as much about + their good rooms and clean sheets as I would have done at one + time, for I had been a long time without either and did not + care to pay the difference. When we were at the ship's office + we had to take our turns to get tickets. One man weighed out + the dust, and another filled out certificates. When the + callers began to get a little scarce I looked under the + counter where I saw a whole panful of dust to which they added + mine to make the pile a little higher. They gave out no berths + with these tickets, but such little things as that did not + trouble us in the least. It was far better fare than we used + to have in and about Death Valley, and we thought we could + live through anything that promised better than the + desert.<br> + </p> + <p>The passenger list footed up four hundred and forty, and + when all got on board, at about ten o'clock in the morning, + there was hardly room for all to stand up comfortably. It + seemed to me to be a very much over-crowded boat in which to + put to sea, but we floated out into the current, with all the + faces toward the shore, and hats and handkerchiefs waving + goodbye to those who had come down to see the home-goers + safely off.<br> + </p> + <p>As we passed out through the wonderful Golden Gate and the + out going current met the solid sea, each seemed wrestling for + the mastery, and the waves beat and dashed themselves into + foam all around us, while the spray came over the bows quite + lively, frightening some who did not expect such treatment. + When we had passed this scene of watery commotion and got out + into the deeper water, the sea smoothed down a great deal; but + sea-sickness began to claim its victims, at first a few, then + more and more, till the greater part were quite badly + affected. I had a touch of it myself, but managed to keep my + feet by bracing out pretty wide, and hugging everything I + could get hold of that seemed to offer a steady support, and I + did not lie down until after I had thrown my breakfast + overboard.<br> + </p> + <p>By the time dark came nearly every one was on his back, + mostly on deck, and no one asleep. All were retching and + moaning bitterly. Some who had a few hours before cursed + California now cursed the sea, and declared that if they could + induce the Captain to turn about and put them back on shore + again, they would rather creep on their hands and knees clear + back to old Missouri over rocks and sand, than to ride any + further on such a miserable old boat as this one was.<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning the decks looked pretty filthy, and about all + the food the passengers had eaten was now spread about the + decks in a half digested condition. Most of the passengers + were very sick. With the early daylight the sailors coupled + the hose to the big steam pump, and began the work of washing + and scrubbing off the decks, and though many begged hard to be + left alone as they were, with all the filth, a good flood of + salt water was the only answer they received to their + pleading, and they were compelled to move, for the sailors + said they could not change their orders without the Captain, + and he would not be out of bed till ten o'clock or later. So + the cursing and swearing went for naught, and the decks were + clean again. There were no deaths to report, but there were + very few to do duty at the tables in eating the food prepared + for them. After a few days the tables filled up again, and now + it took them so long to eat that there had to be an order for + only two meals a day or there would not have been a chance for + all to get something. They were terribly hungry now, and every + one seemed to try his best to take in provisions enough to + last him for at least twelve hours.<br> + </p> + <p>As the fellows began to get their sea legs on, they began + to talk as if they were still in California, and could easily + manage any little boat like this, and could run things as they + did when they crossed the plains, where no sheriff, court or + judge had anything to say about matters, and all law was left + behind. They began to act as if they were lords over all they + could see, and as many of them were from the Southern states, + they seemed to take an especial pride in boasting of how they + did as they pleased, about like the Helms brothers. They + talked as if they could run the world, or the universe even, + themselves without assistance.<br> + </p> + <p>One morning at breakfast, when the table was full and the + waiters scarce, some of these fellows swore and talked pretty + rough, and as a waiter was passing a blue-blood from New + Orleans rose in his seat and called for sugar, holding the + empty bowl in his hand, but the waiter passed on and paid no + attention, and when a mulatto waiter came along behind him the + angry man damned him the worst he could, ordering him to bring + a bowl of sugar, quick. This waiter did not stop and the + Louisiana man threw the bowl at the waiter's head, but missed + it, and the bowl went crashing against the side of the ship. I + expected surely the Captain and his men would come and put the + unruly fellow in irons, and there might be a fight or a riot, + so I cut my meal short and went on deck about as soon as I + could do so, thinking that would be a safer place. But the + Captain seemed to know about how to manage such fellows, and + never left his stateroom, which I think was a wise move. The + darky did not make his appearance at table afterwards, and the + man who threw the bowl said that colored folks had to mind a + gentleman when he spoke to them, or fare worse.<br> + </p> + <p>The Captain now got out his passenger list, and we all had + to pass through a narrow space near the wheel-house and every + one answer to his name and show his ticket. This made work for + about one day. Some stowaways were found and put down into the + hole to heave coal. One day the Captain and mate were out + taking an observation on the sun when a young Missourian + stepped up to see what was being done, and said to the + Captain:—"Captain, don't you think I could learn + how to do that kind of business?" The Captain took the + young man's hand and looked at his nails which were very rough + and dirty and said:—"No my lad; boys with such + finger nails can't learn navigation." This made a big + laugh at the brave lubber's expense.<br> + </p> + <p>Many of the sea-sick ones did not get up so soon, and some + died of that, or something else, and their bodies were sewed + up in blankets with a bushel of coal at their feet to sink + them, and thrown overboard. The bodies were laid out on a + plank at the ship's side, the Captain would read a very brief + service, and the sailors would, at the appropriate time, raise + the end of the plank so that the body slid off and went down + out of sight in a moment.<br> + </p> + <p>In due time we went into the harbor of Acapulco for water + and coal. Here nearly every one went on shore, and as there + was no wharf for the vessel to lie to, the native canoes had + many passengers at a dollar apiece for passage money. Out back + of town there was a small stream of clear water which was warm + and nice to bathe in, and some places three or four feet deep, + so that a great many stripped off for a good wash which was + said to be very healthful in this climate. Many native women + were on hand with soap and towels ready to give any one a good + scrubbing for <i>dos reales</i>, (twenty-five cents) and those + who employed them said they did a good, satisfactory job.<br> + </p> + <p>As I returned to town the streets seemed to be deserted, + and I saw one man come out on an adjoining street, and after + running a few steps, fall down on his face. Hearing the report + of a gun at the same time, I hurried on to get out of danger, + but I afterward learned that the man was a travelling gambler + who had come across the country from Mexico, and that he was + killed as he fell. No one seemed to care for him.<br> + </p> + <p>Near the beach were some large trees, and under them + dancing was going on to the music of the guitar. There were + plenty of pretty Spanish girls for partners, and these and our + boys made up an interesting party. The girls did not seem at + all bashful or afraid of the boys, and though they could not + talk together very much they got along with the sign language, + and the ladies seemed very fond of the <i>Americanos</i>.<br> + </p> + <p>There was a fort here, a regular moss-backed old concern, + and the soldiers were bare footed and did not need much + clothing.<br> + </p> + <p>The cattle that were taken on board here were made to swim + out to the ship, and then, with a rope around their horns, + hoisted on deck, a distance of perhaps forty feet above the + water. The maddened brutes were put into a secure stall ready + for the ship's butcher. The small boys came around the ship in + canoes, and begged the passengers to throw them out a dime, + and when the coin struck the water they would dive for it, + never losing a single one. One man dropped a bright bullet and + the boy who dove for it was so enraged that he called him a + d----d Gringo (Englishman.) None of these boys wore any + clothes.<br> + </p> + <p>This town, like all Spanish towns, was composed of + one-story houses, with dry mud, fire-proof walls. The country + around looked very mountainous and barren, and comfortably + warm.<br> + </p> + <p>After two days we were called on board, and soon set sail + for sea again; and now, as we approached the equator, it + became uncomfortably warm and an awning was put over the upper + deck. All heavy clothing was laid aside, and anyone who had + any amount of money on his person was unable to conceal it; + but no one seemed to have any fear of theft, for a thief could + not conceal anything he should steal, and no one reported + anything lost. There was occasionally a dead body to be + consigned to a watery grave.<br> + </p> + <p>A few days out from here and we were again mustered as + before to show our tickets, which were carefully examined.<br> + </p> + <p>It seemed strange to me that the water was the poorest fare + we had. It was sickish tasting stuff, and so warm it would do + very well for dish-water.<br> + </p> + <p>There were many interesting things to see. Sometimes it + would be spouting whales; sometimes great black masses rolling + on the water, looking like a ship bottom upward, which some + said were black-fish. Some fish seemed to be at play, and + would jump ten feet or more out of the water. The flying fish + would skim over the waves as the ship's wheels seemed to + frighten them; and we went through a hundred acres of + porpoises, all going the same way. The ship plowed right + through them, but none seemed to get hurt by the wheels. + Perhaps they were emigrants like ourselves in search of a + better place.<br> + </p> + <p>It now became terribly hot, and the sun was nearly overhead + at noon. Sometimes a shark could be seen along-side, and + though he seemed to make no effort, easily kept up with the + moving ship. Occasionally we saw a sea snake navigating the + ocean all by himself. I did not understand how these fellows + went to sea and lived so far from land. The flying fish seemed + to be more plentiful as we went along, and would leave the + water and scud along before us.<br> + </p> + <p>We had evening concerts on the forecastle, managed by the + sailors. Their songs were not sacred songs by any means, and + many of them hardly fit to be heard by delicate ears. We again + had to run the gauntlet of the narrow passage and have our + tickets looked over, and this time a new stowaway was found, + and he straightway made application for a job. "Go below, + sir" was all the Captain said. Several died and had their + sea burial, and some who had been so sick all the way as not + to get out of bed, proved tough enough to stand the climate + pretty well.<br> + </p> + <p>As we were nearing Panama the doctor posted a notice to the + mast cautioning us against eating much fruit while on shore, + as it was very dangerous when eaten to excess. We anchored + some little distance from the shore and had to land in small + boats managed by the natives. I went in one, and when the boat + grounded at the beach the boatman took me on his back and set + me on shore, demanding two dollars for the job, which I paid, + and he served the whole crowd in the same way. The water here + was blood warm, and they told me the tide ran very high.<br> + </p> + <p>This was a strange old town to me, walled in on all sides, + a small plaza in the center with a Catholic church on one + side, and the other houses were mostly two story. On the side + next to the beach was a high, thick wall which contained cells + that were used for a jail, and on top were some dismounted + cannon, long and old fashioned.<br> + </p> + <p>The soldiers were poor, lazy fellows, barefooted, and had + very poor looking guns. Going out and in all had to pass + through a large gateway, but they asked no questions. The + streets were very narrow and dirty and the sleeping rooms in + the second story of the houses seemed to be inhabited by cats. + For bed clothes was needed only a single sheet. On the roofs + all around sat turkey buzzards, and anything that fell in the + streets that was possible for them to eat, was gobbled up very + quickly. They were as tame as chickens, and walked around as + fearless and lordly as tame turkeys. In consideration of their + cleaning up the streets without pay, they were protected by + law. One of the passengers could not resist the temptation to + shoot one, and a small squad of soldiers were soon after him, + and came into a room where there were fifty of us, but could + not find their man. He would have been sent to jail if he had + been caught. We had to pay one dollar a night for beds in + these rooms, and they counted money at the rate of eight dimes + to the dollar.<br> + </p> + <p>The old town of Panama lies a little south in the edge of + the sea, and was destroyed by an earthquake long ago I was + told. To me, raised in the north, everything was very new and + strange in way of living, style of building and kind of + produce. There were donkeys, parrots and all kinds of monkeys + in plenty. Most of the women were of very dark complexion, and + not dressed very stylishly, while the younger population did + not have even a fig leaf, or anything to take its place. The + adults dressed very economically, for the days are summer days + all the year round, and the clothing is scanty and cheap for + either sex.<br> + </p> + <p>The cattle were small, pale red creatures, and not inclined + to be very fat, and the birds mostly of the parrot kind. The + market plaza is outside the walls, and a small stream runs + through it, with the banks pretty thickly occupied by + washerwomen. All the washing was done without the aid of a + fire.<br> + </p> + <p>On the plaza there were plenty of donkeys loaded with truck + of all sorts, from wood, green grass, cocoa-nuts and + sugar-cane to parrots, monkeys and all kinds of tropical + fruits. Outside the walls the houses were made of stakes + interwoven with palm leaves, and everything was green as well + as the grass and trees. Very little of the ground seemed to be + cultivated, and the people were lazy and idle, for they could + live so easily on the wild products of the country. A white + man here would soon sweat out all his ambition and enterprise, + and would be almost certain to catch the Panama yellow fever. + The common class of the people here, I should say, were + Spanish and negro mixed, and they seem to get along pretty + well; but the country is not suitable for white people. It + seems to have been made on purpose for donkeys, parrots and + long-heeled negroes.<br> + </p> + <p>The cabin passengers engaged all the horses and mules the + country afforded on which to ride across the Chagres River, so + it fell to the lot of myself and companion to transfer + ourselves on foot, which was pretty hard work in the hot and + sultry weather. My gold dust began to grow pretty heavy as I + went along, and though I had only about two thousand dollars, + weighing about ten pounds, it seemed to me that it weighed + fifty pounds by the way that it bore down upon my shoulders + and wore sore places on them. It really was burdensome. I had + worn it on my person night and day ever since leaving the + mines, and I had some little fear of being robbed when off the + ship.<br> + </p> + <p>Our road had been some day paved with cobble stones. At the + outskirts of the town we met a native coming in with a big + green lizard, about two feet long, which he was hauling and + driving along with a string around its neck. I wondered if + this was not a Panama butcher bringing in a fresh supply of + meat.<br> + </p> + <p>When we reached the hills on our way from Panama, the paved + road ended and we had only a mule trail to follow. The whole + country was so densely timbered that no man could go very far + without a cleared road. In some places we passed over hills of + solid rock, but it was of a soft nature so that the trail was + worn down very deep, and we had to take the same regular steps + that the mules did, for their tracks were worn down a foot or + more. On the road we would occasionally meet a native with a + heavy pack on his back, a long staff in each hand, and a solid + half-length sword by his side. He, like the burro, grunted + every step he took. They seemed to carry unreasonably heavy + loads on their backs, such as boxes and trunks, but there was + no other way of getting either freight or baggage across the + isthmus at that time.<br> + </p> + <p>It looked to me as if this trail might be just such a one + as one would expect robbers to frequent, for it would of + course be expected that Californians would carry considerable + money with them, and we might reasonably look out for this + sort of gentry at any turn of the trail. We were generally + without weapons, and we should have to deliver on demand, and + if any one was killed the body could easily be concealed in + the thick brush on either side of the trail, and no special + search for anyone missing would occur.<br> + </p> + <p>About noon one day we came to a native hut, and saw growing + on a tree near by something that looked like oranges, and we + made very straight tracks with the idea of picking some and + having a feast, but some of the people in the shanty called + out to us and made motions for us not to pick them for they + were no good; so we missed our treat of oranges and contented + ourselves with a big drink of water and walked on.<br> + </p> + <p>After a little more travel we came to another shanty made + of poles and palm leaves, occupied by an American. He was a + tall, raw-boned, cadaverous looking way-side renegade who + looked as if the blood had all been pumped out of his veins, + and he claimed to be sick. He said he was one of the Texas + royal sons. We applied for some dinner and he lazily told us + there were flour, tea and bacon and that we could help + ourselves. I wet up some flour and baked some cakes, made some + poor tea, and fried some bacon. We all got a sort of dinner + out of his pantry stuff, and left him a dollar apiece for the + accommodation. As we walked on my companion gave out and could + carry his bundle no longer, so I took it, along with my own, + and we got on as fast as we could, but darkness came on us + before we reached the Chagres River and we had to stay all + night at a native hut. We had some supper consisting of some + very poor coffee, crackers, and a couple of eggs apiece, and + had to sleep out under a tree where we knew we might find + lizards, snakes, and other poisonous reptiles, and perhaps a + thieving monkey might pick our pockets while we slept.<br> + </p> + <p>Before it was entirely dark many who rode horses came + along, many of them ladies, and following the custom of the + country, they all rode astride. Among this crowd was one + middle-aged and somewhat corpulent old fellow, by profession a + sea-captain, who put on many airs. The old fellow put on his + cool white coat—in fact, a white suit + throughout—and in this tropical climate he looked very + comfortable, indeed, thus attired. He filled his breast pocket + with fine cigars, and put in the other pocket a flask with + some medicine in it which was good for snake bites, and also + tending to produce courage in case the man, not used to + horse-back riding, should find his natural spirits failing. + The rest of his luggage was placed on pack animals, and in + fact the only way luggage was carried in those days was either + on the backs of donkeys or men.<br> + </p> + <p>All was ready for a start, and the captain in his + snow-white suit was mounted on a mule so small that his feet + nearly touched the ground. The little animal had a mind of his + own, and at first did not seem inclined to start out readily, + but after a bit concluded to follow his fellow animals, and + all went well.<br> + </p> + <p>The rider was much amused at what he saw; sometimes a very + lively monkey, sometimes a flock: of paroquets or a + high-colored lizard—and so he rode along with a very + happy air, holding his head up, and smoking a fragrant Havana + with much grace. The road was rough and rocky, with a mud-hole + now and then of rather uncertain depth. At every one of these + mud-holes the Captain's mule would stop, put down his head, + blow his nose and look wise, and then carefully sound the + miniature sea with his fore-feet, being altogether too + cautious to suit his rider who had never been accustomed to a + craft that was afraid of water.<br> + </p> + <p>At one of these performances the mule evidently concluded + the sea before him was not safe, for when the captain tried to + persuade him to cross his persuasions had no effect. Then he + coaxed him with voice gentle, soft and low, with the result + that the little animal took a few very short steps and then + came to anchor again. Then the captain began to get slightly + roiled in temper, and the voice was not so gentle, sweet and + low, but it had no greater effect upon his craft. He began to + get anxious, for the others had gone on, and he thought + perhaps he might be left.<br> + </p> + <p>Now, this sea-faring man had armed his heels with the large + Spanish spurs so common in the country, and bringing them in + contact with the force due to considerable impatience, Mr. + Mule was quite suddenly and painfully aware of the result. + This was harsher treatment than he could peaceably submit to, + and at the second application of the spurs a pair of small + hoofs were very high in the air and the captain very low on + his back in the mud and water, having been blown from the + hurricane deck of his craft in a very sudden and lively style. + The philosophical mule stood very still and looked on while + the white coat and pantaloons were changing to a dirty brown, + and watched the captain as he waded out, to the accompaniment + of some very vigorous swear words.<br> + </p> + <p>Both the man and beast looked very doubtful of each other's + future actions, but the man shook the water off and bestowed + some lively kicks on his muleship which made him bounce into + and through the mud-hole, and the captain, still holding the + bridle, followed after. Once across the pool the captain set + his marine eye on the only craft that had been too much for + his navigation and said "Vengeance should be mine," + and in this doubtful state of mind he cautiously mounted his + beast again and fully resolved to stick to the deck, + hereafter, at all hazards, he hurried on and soon overtook the + train again, looking quite like a half drowned rooster. The + others laughed at him and told him they could find better + water a little way ahead, at the river, and they would see him + safely in. The captain was over his pet, and made as much fun + as any of them, declaring that he could not navigate such a + bloody craft as that in such limited sea room, for it was + dangerous even when there was no gale to speak of.<br> + </p> + <p>The ladies did not blush at the new and convenient costumes + which they saw in this country, and laughed a good deal over + the way of traveling they had to adopt. Any who were sick were + carried in a kind of chair strapped to the back of a native. + Passengers were strung along the road for miles, going and + coming. We would occasionally sit down awhile and let the + sweat run off while a party of them passed us. Some were + mounted on horses, some on mules, and some on donkeys, and + they had to pay twelve dollars for the use of an animal for + the trip.<br> + </p> + <p>Our night at this wayside deadfall was not much better than + some of the nights about Death Valley, but as I was used to + low fare, I did not complain as some did. This seemed a + wonderful country to a northern raised boy. The trail was + lined on both sides with all kinds of palms and various other + kinds of trees and shrubs, and they were woven together in a + compact mass with trailing and running vines. The trees were + not tall, and the bark was as smooth as a young hickory. The + roots would start out of the tree three feet above the ground + and stand out at an angle, and looked like big planks placed + edgewise.<br> + </p> + <p>It seemed as if there were too many plants for the ground + to support, and so they grew on the big limbs of the trees all + around, the same as the mistletoe on the oak, only there were + ever so many different kinds.<br> + </p> + <p>The weather was very clear, and the sun so hot that many of + the travelers began to wilt and sit down by the roadside to + rest. Many walked along very slowly and wore long faces. The + road from Panama to Crucez, on the Chagres River, was eighteen + miles long, and all were glad when they were on the last end + of it. The climate here seems to take all the starch and + energy out of a man's body, and in this condition he must be + very cautious or some disease will overtake him and he will be + left to die without burial for his body if he has no personal + friends with him.<br> + </p> + <p>We started on the next morning, and on our way stepped over + a large ship anchor that lay across the trail. I suppose the + natives had undertaken to pack it across the isthmus and found + it too heavy for them. Perhaps it was for Capt. Kidd, the + great pirate, for it is said that he often visited Panama in + the course of his cruising about in search of treasures.<br> + </p> + <p>Passing along a sandy place in the trail, a snake crossed + and left his track, big as a stovepipe it seemed to be, and + after this we kept a sharp watch for big snakes that might be + in waiting to waylay us for game.<br> + </p> + <p>There were plenty of monkeys and parrots climbing and + chattering around in the trees. The forest is here so dense + that the wind never blows, and consequently it never gets + cool. The sun, ever since we got down near the equator, was + nearly overhead, and the moon seemed to be even north of + us.<br> + </p> + <p>When we reached the Chagres River we hired a boat of an + Irishman for the trip down. I wondered if there was a place on + earth so desolate that the "Paddy" would not find + it. The boat for the journey cost two hundred dollars, and + would hold passengers enough so that it would cost us ten + dollars each, at any rate, and perhaps a little more. Two + natives had charge of the boat and did the navigating. There + were two ladies among the passengers, and when the two + natives, who I suppose were the captain and mate of the craft, + came on board, clad very coolly in Panama hats, the ladies + looked at them a little out of the corners of their eyes and + made the best of it. Our two navigators took the oars and + pulled slowly down the stream.<br> + </p> + <p>Nothing but water and evergreen trees could we see, for the + shore on either hand was completely hidden by the dense growth + that hung over and touched the water. On a mud bar that we + passed a huge alligator lay, taking a sun bath, and though + many shots were fired at him he moved away very leisurely. No + one could get on shore without first clearing a road through + the thick brushes and vines along the bank. On the way one of + our boatmen lost his hat, his only garment, into the river, + and overboard he went, like a dog, and soon had it and climbed + on board again. I wondered why some of the big alligators did + not make a snap at him.<br> + </p> + <p>The water in the run looked very roily and dirty, and no + doubt had fever in it. The only animals we saw were monkeys + and alligators, and there were parrots in the trees. The + farther we went down the stream the wider it became, and the + current slacker so that we moved more slowly with the same + amount of rowing. At a place called Dos Hermanos (two + brothers) we could see a little cleared spot near the bank, + which seemed to be three or four feet above the water. There + were no mountains nor hills in sight, and the whole country + seemed to be an extensive swamp. It was near night that we + came to a small native village of palm huts, and here our + boatmen landed and hid themselves, and not being able to find + them we were compelled to stay all night, for we dare not go + on alone. The place looked like a regular robbers' roost, and + being forced to sleep outside the huts, we considered it + safest to sleep with one eye open. We would have gone on with + the boat only that we were afraid the river might have more + than one outlet, and if we should take the wrong one we might + be too late for the steamer, which even now we were afraid + would not wait for us, and getting left would be a very + serious matter in this country.<br> + </p> + <p>We had very little to eat, and all we could buy was sugar + cane, bananas, monkeys and parrots. We kept a sharp eye out + for robbers, keeping together as much as we could, for we knew + that all returning Californians would be suspected of having + money. Most all of them were ready for war except myself who + had no weapon of any kind. All of these people had a bad name, + and every one of them carried a long bladed knife called a + Macheta, with which they could kill a man at a single blow. + But with all our fears we got through the night safely, and in + the morning found our boatmen who had hidden away. We waited + not for breakfast, but sailed away as soon as we could, and + reached Chagres, near the mouth of the river, before + night.<br> + </p> + <p>The river banks here are not more than three feet high, and + farther back the land fell off again into a wet swamp of + timber and dense vegetable growth. The town was small and + poorly built, on the immediate bank, and the houses were + little brush and palm affairs except the boarding house which + was "T" shaped, the front two stories high, with a + long dining room running back, having holes for windows, but + no glass in them.<br> + </p> + <p>Before the bell rung for meals a long string of hungry men + would form in line, and at the first tap would make a rush for + the table like a flock of sheep. After all were seated a + waiter came around and collected a dollar from each one, and + we thought this paid pretty well for the very poor grub they + served afterwards.<br> + </p> + <p>No ship had as yet been in sight to take us away from this + lowest, dirtiest, most unhealthful place on earth, and the + prospect of remaining here had nothing very charming about it. + The river was full of alligators, so the bathing was + dangerous, and the whole country was about fit for its + inhabitants, which were snakes, alligators, monkeys, parrots + and lazy negroes. It could not have been more filthy if the + dregs of the whole earth had been dumped here, and cholera and + yellow fever were easy for a decent man to catch.<br> + </p> + <p>My companion and I went out on the beach a mile or two to + get the salt water breeze, and leave the stinking malaria for + those who chose to stay in the hot, suffocating village, and + here we would stay until nearly night. Across a small neck of + water was what was called a fort. It could hardly be seen it + was so covered with moss and vines, but near the top could be + seen something that looked like old walls. There was no sign + of life about it, and I should judge it was built at some very + early day. Surely there was nothing here to protect, for the + whole country did not seem able to support even a few + barefooted soldiers.<br> + </p> + <p>Some men who wandered along up the river bank, following a + path, said they had seen some dead human bodies thrown into + the swamp and left, probably because it was easier than + putting them under ground.<br> + </p> + <p>For a bedroom I hired a little platform which a store + keeper had placed before his store, where I slept, and paid a + dollar for the privilege. Some one walked around near me all + night, and I dared not close more than one eye at a time for + fear of losing a little bag of gold dust. This little bag of + gold was getting to be a great burden to me in this sickly + climate, and the vigilant guard I had to keep over so small a + treasure was very tiresome.<br> + </p> + <p>The second night no steamer came, but on the third morning + the steamer was riding at anchor three or four miles out, and + soon after a ship came in from the Atlantic end of the + Nicaragua route with one thousand passengers, there being no + steamer there for them to take a passage home on, and so they + had to come here for a start. This filled the little town to + overflowing, but as the ship that had arrived was the Georga, + one of the largest afloat, all could go if they only could + endure the fare.<br> + </p> + <p>We now had to go in small boats from the shore to the ship, + and the trip cost two dollars and a half. I waited till I had + seen some of the boats make a trip or two, and then choosing + one that had a sober skipper, I made the venture. It was said + that one drunken boatman allowed his boat to drift into some + breakers and all were lost.<br> + </p> + <p>I tell you I was over anxious to get out of this country, + for I well knew that if I stayed very long I should stay + forever, for one like myself raised in a healthful climate, + could not remain long without taking some of the fatal + diseases the country was full of.<br> + </p> + <p>We made the trip to the vessel safely, and as our boat lay + under the ship's quarter, the men holding the ropes, I looked + up, and when I saw the swinging rope ladder on which I was + expected to climb up to the ship's deck, it seemed a pretty + dangerous job; but I mustered up courage and made the attempt. + The sea was pretty rough out here for the small boats, and the + ship rolled some, so that when persons tried to get hold of + the ladder they were thrown down and sometimes hurt a little. + A man held on to the lower end of the ladder so that the one + who was climbing might not get banged against the side of the + ship and have his breath knocked out of him, I mounted the + ladder safely and climbed away like a monkey, reaching the + deck all right. Ladies and weak people were hauled up in a + sort of chair with a block and rope.<br> + </p> + <p>It took the most of two days to get the people on board, + and when they were counted up there were one thousand four + hundred and forty, all told. This steamer had a very long + upper deck and a comparatively short keel, and rolled very + badly; and as for me, I had swallowed so much of the deadly + malaria of the isthmus that I soon got very seasick, and the + first day or two were very unpleasant. I went to the bar and + paid two bits for a glass of wine to help my appetite, but it + staid with me no longer than time enough to reach the ship's + side. When night came the decks were covered with sleepy men, + and if the weather had been rough and all sick, as was the + case when we left San Francisco, we should have had more + filthy decks than we had even on that occasion.<br> + </p> + <p>Approaching the harbor at Havana, Cuba, we seemed to be + going head foremost against a wall of solid rock, but when + within speaking distance an officer came in sight on the fort + right before us, and shouted through his speaking trumpet, + saying:—"Why don't you salute us?" Our officer + said, "You know us well enough without." Our ship + had a small cannon on the forecastle, but did not choose to + use it, and I suppose the Cuban officer felt slighted. We now + turned short to the right and entered the beautiful harbor, + which is perfectly landlocked and as still as a pond. The city + is all on the right side of the bay and our coal yard was on + the left at a short wharf at which we landed.<br> + </p> + <p>A lot of armed soldiers were placed a short distance back + on the high ground and no one was allowed to go beyond them. + We now had a port officer on board who had entire charge of + the ship, and if anyone wanted to go to the city, across the + bay two or three miles, he had to pay a dollar for a pass. + This pass business made the blue bloods terribly angry, and + they swore long and loud, and the longer they talked the + madder they got, and more bitter in their feelings, so that + they were ready to fight (not with sugar-bowls this time.)<br> + </p> + <p>The weather here was very warm and the heat powerful, and + as these fellows saw there was only one course to be pursued + if they wanted to get on shore, they slowly took passes good + for all day and paid their dollar for them, and also another + dollar each to the canoe men to take them to the city. Myself + and companion also took passes and went over.<br> + </p> + <p>Arriving at the city we walked a short distance and came to + the plaza, which is not a very large one. Here was a single + grave nicely fenced in, and across the plaza were some large + two-story houses in front of which was stationed a squad of + cavalry standing as motionless as if every man of them was a + marble statue. We kept on the opposite side of the street, and + chancing to meet a man whom we rightly supposed to be an + Englishman, we inquired about the grave on the plaza and were + informed that it was that of Christopher Columbus, the + discoverer of America.<br> + </p> + <p>Just then we noticed the cavalry moving up the street at a + slow gallop, and so formed that a close carriage was in the + center of the squad. As they rushed by and we gazed at them + with purely American curiousity, our new English friend raised + our hats for us and held them till the cavalcade had passed, + merely remarking that the Governor General was within the + carriage. We spoke perhaps a bit unpleasantly when we asked + him why he was so ungentlemanly in his treatment of us as to + remove our hats, but he said:—"My friends, if I had + not taken off your hats for you as a friend, some of those + other fellows would have knocked them off, so I did for you an + act of greatest kindness, for every one removes his hat when + the Governor General passes." He also informed us that + the special occasion for this rather pompous parade was the + execution of some criminals at a park or prison not far away, + and that this was done by beheading them.<br> + </p> + <p>Our friend proposed that we also walk out in that + direction, and we went with him to the edge of the city, but + when he turned into a by path that did not seem much + frequented, we declined to follow farther, and turned back + along the open road. The path looked to us a sort of robber's + route, and not exactly safe for unarmed men like us in a + strange country.<br> + </p> + <p>The man followed us back and took us into a large, airy + saloon, in the center of which a big fountain was playing, and + the great basin in which the water fell was filled with + beautiful fish. Our friend called for an iced drink for each + of us, and as we sat at the table we tasted it and found it + rather intoxicating. For this they charged us one dollar each, + but we noticed that our friend paid nothing, and we set him + down as a sort of capper, after the style we had seen at the + gold mines. We sat a few minutes and then so coolly bade our + friend good-bye that he had not the face to follow us further, + and continued our walk about the streets which seemed to us + very narrow, and the houses generally two stories high.<br> + </p> + <p>A chaise passed us, containing two young ladies with + complexions white and fair, and eyes and hair black, in + striking contrast. The carriage was drawn by two horses + tandem, the horse in the shafts being mounted by a big negro + of very dignified appearance, dressed in livery and having top + boots that came to his knees. This was the only vehicle of the + kind we saw on the streets.<br> + </p> + <p>We did not dare to go very far alone, for with our + ignorance of the Spanish language we might go astray and not + get back to the ship within the lifetime of our passes, and + not knowing how much trouble that might cause us, we were + naturally a little timid; so we took a boat back to the ship, + and when on board again we felt safe. We had only about four + dollars cash left.<br> + </p> + <p>A big gang of darkies were coaling the ship. Each one + carried a large tub full of coal upon his head and poured it + down into the ship's hold. All the clothes these fellows wore + was a strip of cloth about their middle. When they were let + off for dinner they skimmed off all they could get from the + ship's slop barrel which stood on the wharf alongside, to help + out their very scanty food. The overseer stood by them all the + time with a big whip and made them hurry up as fast as + possible, talking Spanish pretty vigorously, and though we + could not understand, we made up our minds that a good part of + it was swearing.<br> + </p> + <p>The next morning the steamship Prometheus came in and tied + up near us, and soon word was brought that she would take the + New Orleans passengers on board and sail immediately for that + port. It now occurred to me that I could get nearer home by + going up the Mississippi River than by way of New York, so I + went on board the Prometheus, and we soon sailed out of the + harbor, passing under the gate of the fortress called, I + think, San Juan de Ulloa.<br> + </p> + <p>Nothing special occurred during our passage till we were + near the mouth of the Mississippi River, when, in the absence + of a pilot boat or tug, our Captain thought he would try to + get in alone, and as a consequence we were soon fast in the + mud. The Captain now made all the passengers go aft, and + worked the engine hard but could not move her at all. The tide + was now low, and there was a prospect that we should have to + wait full six hours to get away. We worked on, however, and + after a few hours a tug came to our assistance and pulled us + out of the mud and towed us into the right channel, up which + we steamed on our way to New Orleans, one-hundred-twenty miles + away.<br> + </p> + <p>The country on both sides of us was an immense + marsh—no hills in sight, no timber, nothing but the same + level marsh or prairie. When we were nearer the Crescent City + some houses came in sight; then we passed General Jackson's + battle-field, and in due time reached the city.<br> + </p> + <p>On board this ship I became acquainted with Dick Evans who + lived in the same county that I used to in Wisconsin, near + Mineral Point, so the three of us now concluded to travel + together.<br> + </p> + <p>New Orleans seemed to be a very large city. Near the levee + a large government building was in course of construction for + a Custom House. It was all of stone, and the walls were up + about two stories. We put up at a private boarding house, and + the first business was to try and sell our gold dust. So we + went to the mint and were told we would have to wait ten days + to run it through the mill, and we did not like to wait so + long. We were shown all through the mint and saw all the + wonders of coin making. Every thing seemed perfect here. + Beautiful machinery was in operation making all sizes of gold + coins, from a twenty dollar piece down. Strips of gold bands + about six feet long and of the proper thickness for twenty + dollar pieces are run through a machine which cuts out the + pieces, and when these are cut they can stamp out the pieces + as fast as one can count.<br> + </p> + <p>This was the most ingenious work I ever saw, and very + wonderful and astonishing to a backwoodsman like myself, for I + supposed that money was run in moulds like bullets.<br> + </p> + <p>As we could not wait we went to a bank and sold our dust, + getting only sixteen dollars per ounce, the same price they + paid in California. We now took the cars and rode out to Lake + Ponchartrain—most of the way over a trestle work. We + found a wharf and warehouse at the lake, and a steamer lay + there all ready to go across to the other side. The country + all about looked low, with no hills in sight.<br> + </p> + <p>When we returned to the city we looked all about, and in + the course of our travels came to a slave market. Here there + were all sorts of black folks for sale; big and little, old + and young and all sorts. They all seemed good-natured, and + were clean, and seemed to think they were worth a good deal of + money. Looking at them a few minutes sent my mind back to St. + Joseph, Missouri, where I saw a black sold at auction. From my + standpoint of education I did not approve of this way of + trading in colored people.<br> + </p> + <p>We continued our stroll about the city, coming to a + cemetery, where I looked into a newly dug grave to find it + half full of water. On one side were many brick vaults above + ground. The ground here is very low and wet, and seemed to be + all swamp. The drainage was in surface gutters, and in them + the water stood nearly still. It seemed to me such water must + have yellow fever in it.<br> + </p> + <p>For a long way along the levee the steamboats lay thick and + close together, unloading cotton, hemp, sugar, hoop poles, + bacon and other products, mostly the product of negro + labor.<br> + </p> + <p>Here our friend Evans was taken sick, and as he got no + better after a day or two, we called a doctor to examine him. + He pronounced it a mild case of yellow fever. His skin was + yellow in places, and he looked very badly. The doctor advised + us to go on up the river, saying it was very dangerous staying + here with him. Evans gave me most of his money and all of his + gold specimens to take to his wife, and when he got well he + would follow us. We bade him good-bye, and with many wishes + for his speedy recovery, we took passage on a steamer for St. + Louis. This steamer, the Atlantic, proved to be a real + floating palace in all respects. The table was supplied with + everything the country afforded, and polite and well-dressed + darkies were numerous as table waiters. This was the most + pleasant trip I had ever taken, and I could not help comparing + the luxuriance of my coming home to the hardships of the + outward journey across the plains, and our starvation + fare.<br> + </p> + <p>Our boat was rather large for the stage of water this time + of year, and we proceeded rather slowly, but I cared little + for speed as bed and board were extra good, and a first cabin + passage in the company of friends, many of whom were going to + the same part of Wisconsin as myself, was not a tedious affair + by any means.<br> + </p> + <p>At night gambling was carried on very extensively, and + money changed hands freely as the result of sundry games of + poker, which was the popular game.<br> + </p> + <p>We reached St. Louis in time, and here was the end of our + boat's run. The river had some ice floating on its surface, + and this plainly told us that we were likely to meet more ice + and colder weather as we went north. We concluded to take the + Illinois River boat from here to Peoria, and paid our passage + and stepped on board. We were no more than half way through + this trip when the ice began to form on the surface of the + water, and soon became so thick and strong that the boat + finally came to a perfect standstill, frozen in solid.<br> + </p> + <p>We now engaged a farm wagon to take us to Peoria, from + which place we took regular stages for Galena. Our driver was + inclined to be very merciful to his horses, so we were two + days in reaching that town, but perhaps it was best, for the + roads were icy and slippery, and the weather of the real + winter sort. From here we hired a team to take four of us to + Plattville, and then an eighteen-mile walk brought me to + Mineral Point, the place from which I started with my + Winnebago pony in 1849. I had now finished my circle and + brought both ends of the long belt together.<br> + </p> + <p>I now went to a drug store and weighed Mr. Evans' + specimens, wrapping each in a separate piece of paper, with + the value marked on each, and took them to his wife, to whom I + told the news about her husband. In two week's time he came + home sound and well.<br> + </p> + <p>I was quite disappointed in regard to the looks and + business appearance of the country. It looked thinly settled, + people scarce, and business dull. I could not get a day's work + to do, and I could not go much farther on foot, for the snow + was eight or ten inches deep, and I was still several hundred + miles from my parents in Michigan. So my journey farther east + was delayed until spring. The hunting season was over, and + when I came into Mineral Point without a gun, and wore good + clothes, making a better appearance than I used to, they + seemed to think I must be rich and showed me marked attention, + and made many inquiries about their neighbors who started for + California about the same time I did. The young ladies smiled + pleasantly when near me, and put on their best white aprons, + looking very tidy and bright, far superior to any of the + ladies I had seen in my crooked route from San Francisco + through Acapulco, Panama, the West Indies and along the + Mississippi.<br> + </p> + <p>After a few days in town I went out into the neighborhood + where I used to live and stopped with Mr. E.A. Hall, who used + to be a neighbor of Mr. Bennett, as he had invited me to stay + with himself and wife, who were the only occupants of a good + house, and all was pleasant. But notwithstanding all the + comfort in which I was placed, I grew lonesome, for the + enforced idleness, on account of the stormy weather, was a new + feature in my life, and grew terribly monotonous.<br> + </p> + <p>After some delay I concluded to write to my parents in + Michigan and give them a long letter with something of a + history of my travels, and to refresh my memory I got out my + memorandum I had kept through all my journey.<br> + </p> + <p>As my letter was liable to be quite lengthy I bought a + quantity of foolscap paper and begun. I took my diary as my + guide, and filled out the ideas suggested in it so they would + understand them. I soon ran through with my paper and bought + more, and kept on writing. The weather was cold and stormy, + and I found it the best occupation I could have to prevent my + being lonesome; so I worked away, day after day, for about a + month, and I was really quite tired of this sort of work + before I had all the facts recorded which I found noted down + in my diary. My notes began in March, 1849, in Wisconsin, and + ended in February, 1852, on my return to Mineral Point. I + found, as the result of my elaboration, over three hundred + pages of closely written foolscap paper, and I felt very much + relieved when it was done. By the aid of my notes I could very + easily remember everything that had taken place during my + absence, and it was recorded in regular form, with day and + date, not an incident of any importance left out, and every + word as true as gospel. I had neither exaggerated nor + detracted from any event so far as I could recollect.<br> + </p> + <p>I now loaned Mr. Hall, with whom I lived, six hundred + dollars to enable him to cross the plains to California and + try to make his fortune. To secure this I took a mortgage on + his eighty-acre farm, and he set out to make the journey. I + had another eighty acres of land near here which I bought at + government price before going to California, but I could not + now sell it for what it cost me. When I went away I had left + my chest and contents with my friend Samuel Zollinger, and he + had kept it safely, so I now made him my lawful agent. I + placed my narrative and some other papers in the chest and + gave the key into his charge, while I went north, across the + Wisconsin River, to visit my old hunting and trapping friend, + Robert McCloud. Here I made a very pleasant visit of perhaps a + week, and the common prospects of the country were freely + talked over. It seemed to us as if the good times were still + far off; every day was like Sunday so far as anything going + on; no money in circulation, many places abandoned, and, like + myself, many had gone to California to seek gold instead of + lead. (The mines at Mineral Point are mostly of lead, with + some copper.)<br> + </p> + <p>Looking at matters in this light it did not need a great + deal of McCloud's persuasion to induce me to go back with him + to California, all the more so as my little pile seemed to + look smaller every day, while three or four years ago it would + have seemed quite large. Deciding to go, I wrote to Mr. + Zollinger to send the account I had written to my parents in + Michigan, reading it first himself, and admonishing him not to + lend it. I also wrote to my parents telling them what they + might look for in the mails, and cautioning them never to have + it printed, for the writing was so ungrammatical and the + spelling so incorrect that it would be no credit to me.<br> + </p> + <p>I afterward learned that in time they received the bundle + of paper and read it through and through, and circulated it + around the neighborhood till it was badly worn, and laid it + away for future perusal when their minds should incline that + way. But the farm house soon after took fire and burned, my + labor going up in smoke.<br> + </p> + <p>When the news of this reached me I resolved to try to + forget all the trials, troubles and hardships I had gone + through, and which I had almost lived over again as I wrote + them down, and I said to myself that I would not talk about + them more than I could help, the sooner to have them vanish, + and never write them down again, but a few years ago an + accident befell me so that I could not work, and I back-slid + from my determination when I was persuaded so earnestly by + many friends to write the account which appeared a few years + ago in the Santa Clara Valley now the Pacific Tree and Vine, + edited by H.A. Brainard, at San Jose, California. The diary + was lost, and from memory alone the facts have been rehearsed, + and it is but fair to tell the reader that the hardest and + worst of it has never been told nor will it ever be.<br> + <br> + </p> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-27012"></a>CHAPTER XVI.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>McCloud and I now took his skiff, and for two days floated + down the Wisconsin River till we reached the Mississippi, + boarded the first steamboat we could hail, and let our own + little craft adrift. In due time we reached St. Louis and + boarded another steamer for New Orleans.<br> + </p> + <p>At a wood-yard, about dark, a lot of negroes, little and + big, came on board to sell brooms. The boat's clerk seemed to + know negro character pretty well, so he got out his violin and + played for them. For a while the young colored gentry listened + in silence, but pretty soon he struck a tune that suited them, + and they began to dance in their own wild style.<br> + </p> + <p>In seven days from St. Louis we landed in New Orleans, and + found the government steamer, Falcon, advertised to sail in + two days. We went together to one of the slave warehouses. + Outside and in all was neat end clean, and any day you could + see men, women and children standing under the shed as a sign + of what they had within, and the painted signs "For + Sale" displayed conspicuously. We were very civilly + treated, and invited to examine the goods offered for sale. + There were those of all ages and all colors, for some were + nearly white and some intensely black, with all the shades + between. All were to be sold, separately, or in families, or + in groups as buyers might desire. All were made to keep + themselves clean and neatly dressed, and to behave well, with + a smile to all the visitors whether they felt like smiling or + not. Some seemed really anxious to get a good master, and when + a kind, pleasant looking man came along they would do their + utmost to be agreeable to him and inquire if he did not want + to buy them. We talked it over some between ourselves, and + when we thought of the market and the human chattels for sale + there, McCloud spoke up and said:—"I am almost + persuaded to be an abolitionist."<br> + </p> + <p>I now went on board the steamer Falcon, in command of a + government officer, to try to learn something about the family + of Capt. Culverwell who perished alone in Death Valley. He + told me he had once belonged to the Navy and had his life + insured, and as I was an important witness for his family I + wanted to learn where they lived. The Captain looked over a + list of officers, but Culverwell's name was not there. I then + wrote a letter to Washington stating the facts of his death, + and my own address in Sacramento, California. I also stated + that I would assist the widow if I could, but I never received + an answer.<br> + </p> + <p>We soon started down the river, having on board about one + hundred passengers, men going to work on the Panama Railroad. + At Chagres we found a small stern wheeled river steamer and + took passage on it for Gorgona, as far as the steamer could + well go up the river. While going up we met a similar boat + coming down, and being near a short bend they crashed + together, breaking down our guards severely, but fortunately + with no damage to our wheel. A few miles above this a dark + passing cloud gave us rain in streams, and we had to drift in + near shore to wait for the storm to pass. I never before saw + water fall so fast, and yet in half an hour the sun was out + and burning hot.<br> + </p> + <p>Before we reached Gorgona we got acquainted with a man + named John Briggs from Wisconsin, and Lyman Ross from Rhode + Island, and concluded to travel in company. Our fare thus far + was ten dollars, and two horses to Panama for which we paid + twelve dollars each. We now rode and walked turn about, and + when we inquired about the road we were told that being once + in it we could not possibly get out except at the other end, + and would need no guide, and at the end of a very disagreeable + day's work we reached the big gate at Panama and entered the + ancient city.<br> + </p> + <p>We waited but little here before taking the steamer + Southerner, bound for San Francisco. Three days after we + sailed away one of our passengers went overboard, a corpse, + and three or four more died and were buried alongside before + we reached Acapulco.<br> + </p> + <p>Here we took on water and coal and were soon at sea again. + McCloud soon had to take his place in the sick ward, and I + attended him most of the time, but was not allowed to give him + anything without a permit from the doctor, and the long delays + between the administrations of medicine made the sickness hard + to endure. The sick could see the dead sewed up in blankets + with a bucket of coal for a weight; then resting on a plank + with sailors on each side, the mate would read the brief + services appropriate to a burial at sea, the plank was tilted, + and the lifeless body slid down into the depths. Such scenes + were no benefit to the suffering, for each might think his + turn was next, when a bright hope and prospect would be better + for his recovery.<br> + </p> + <p>One forenoon the fire gong rang out sharply, and all was in + confusion, supposing the ship to be on fire, but nothing could + be seen but a dense fog, except as a gentle wind lifted it a + little and there, dead ahead, was a rocky island, against + which it seemed we must dash to destruction, for there was no + beach and very little chance for any one to be saved. Ten + minutes more in this direction and we were lost, but the + officers quickly changed the course, and we passed the pile of + rocks scarcely a rifle shot away. Whose fault it was, this + danger so miraculously avoided, we did not know, the captain's + or the imperfect chart, and opinions were freely given both + ways.<br> + </p> + <p>About those days the air felt cooler the fog less dense, + and the foggy rain-bows we had seen so much when the sun tried + to shine, were scarce, while a more northern wind created a + coolness that made sick folks feel refreshed and hopeful. It + gave me a chance to cheer up my sick friend who was still in + bed, and tell him it would continue to be cooler as we + went.<br> + </p> + <p>On the Fourth of July the officers produced the ship's full + supply of flags, and the sailors climbed high and low, + fastening them to every rope till we had a very gay + Independence day appearance. In this gay dress we steamed into + San Diego harbor to leave the mail for a few soldiers + stationed there, and get their letters in return.<br> + </p> + <p>I could see no town in San Diego, but a beautiful harbor, + and some poor looking mustard wigwams some way off seemed to + contain the good people of that place.<br> + </p> + <p>A boat with a small crew pulled out and came alongside to + get the mail and deliver theirs, and then we turned to sea + again. The country all around this beautiful little harbor + looked mountainous and extremely barren, and no one wanted to + go on shore.<br> + </p> + <p>About dark we had made sufficient offing and turned + northward, plowing through large fields of kelp. The next + morning the forward watch announced land ahead, which could + dimly be seen as the fog rose. The officers rushed on deck and + could see not far ahead a sandy beach, and a moment more + showed that we were headed directly for it, and that it was + not more than a quarter of a mile away. Quickly the helmsman + was given orders to steer almost west instead of the north + course he had been following. He was asked why he kept on his + north course when he saw danger ahead, and + answered:—"It is my business to steer according to + orders, even if the ship goes ashore, and I can not change + course unless ordered to." The Captain now examined his + chart and decided he was in San Pedro harbor, off Los + Angeles.<br> + </p> + <p>The sun came out bright and clear a little later, and I got + McCloud out of his bed and gave him a seat at the ship's side + where he could see the green grassy hills near the beach, and + larger hills and mountains farther back. We could see cattle + feeding in the nearest pastures, and the whole scene was a + pleasant one; and as we sat on the eastern side of the ship + and snuffed the cool breeze which came from the north, we + thought we were comparatively happy people, and hoped that, if + no accident befell, we would soon be at the end of our + voyage.<br> + </p> + <p>On the seventh day of July, 1851, we entered the Golden + Gate, this being my second arrival in California. On our trip + from Panama seven or more had died and been buried at sea, but + the remainder of us were quite safe and sound. We found the + heart of the city still smoking, for a fire had broken out on + July fourth and burned extensively, and these broad, blackened + ruins were the result. Some said the work had been done by the + Sidney "ducks" and their numerous helpers, who were + really the rulers of the city. The place now looked much worse + than it did when I left in November before. These Sidney + "ducks" were English convicts from Australia, and + other thieves and robbers joined them as agreeable companion, + making a large class that seemed to glory in destruction and a + chance for booty.<br> + </p> + <p>I walked around over the hills where I could see the burned + district and the destruction of so much valuable property, and + when I thought the civil law was not strong enough to govern, + it seemed to me it would be a good place for such men as the + Helms brothers of Georgetown to come down and do a little + hanging business, for they could here find plenty to do, and + they could carry out their plan of letting no guilty man + escape.<br> + </p> + <p>About four o'clock one afternoon we went aboard the + Sacramento steamer, Antelope, paying our passage with half an + ounce apiece, and were soon on our way past the islands and up + the bay. When we were beyond Benicia, where the river banks + were close, McCloud sat watching the shore, and remarked that + the boat ran like a greyhound, and it seemed to him, beat the + old ocean steamer pretty bad.<br> + </p> + <p>He seemed to be nearly well again, and complimented me as + the best doctor he ever saw. Since he had been sick I had paid + him all the attention I could, and he gave me all the praise I + deserved, now that he was getting to feel himself again.<br> + </p> + <p>At Sacramento we changed to another boat bound for + Marysville, which place we reached without special incident. + Here we invested in a four-ounce donkey, that is, we paid four + ounces of gold for him, just an ounce apiece for four of + us—W.L. Manley, Robert McCloud, Lyman Ross and John + Briggs. We piled our blankets in a pack upon the gentle, + four-ounce donkey, and added a little tea and coffee, dried + beef and bread, then started for the Yuba River, ourselves on + foot. We crossed the river at Park's Bar, then went up the + ridge by way of Nigger Tent, came down to the river again at + Goodyear Bar, then up the stream to Downieville. This town was + named after John Downie, a worthless drunkard. I remember that + he once reformed, but again back-slid and died a drunkard's + death.<br> + </p> + <p>We found this a lively mining town about sixty miles above + Marysville, on the north fork of the Yuba River, and only + reached by a pack trail, but everything was flush here, even + four aces. The location was a veritable Hole-in-the-Ground, + for the mountains around were very high, and some of them wore + their caps of snow all summer, particularly those on the east. + The gold dust we found here was coarser than it was where I + worked before, down south on the Merced River. Before I came + to California I always supposed that gold dust was really + dust, and about as fine as flour.<br> + </p> + <p>We went up the North Fork about a mile or two above town + and camped on Wisconsin Flat to begin our mining operations. + Our luck was poor at first, and all except myself were out of + money, and more or less in debt to me. We made expenses, + however, and a little more, and as soon as Mr. Ross got his + small debt paid he said he was discouraged mining, and with + blankets on his shoulders started up the trail towards + Galloway's ranch, on the summit south of town. Mr. Ross said + the work was too hard for him, for he was not strong enough to + handle pick and shovel, and he believed he could go down to + Sacramento and make more by his wits than he could here. I + went with him to town and saw him start off with a fair load + on his back, and watched him as he toiled up the steep + mountain trail for about two miles, when he went out of + sight.<br> + </p> + <p>The rest of us kept on mining. Our luck was not very good, + but we persevered, for there was nothing to be gained by + fainting by the way. I went into an old abandoned shaft about + ten feet deep and found the bottom filled with a big quartz + boulder, and as I had been a lead miner in Wisconsin, I began + drifting, and soon found bed rock, when I picked up a piece of + pure gold that weighed four ounces. This was what I called a + pretty big find, and not exactly what I called gold dust. It + was quite a surprise to me, for the gravel on the bed rock was + only about three or four inches thick.<br> + </p> + <p>We kept on drifting for some time, sometimes making good + wages, and on the whole so satisfactory that we concluded to + stay. We now located some claims back in the flat where the + ground would be thirty feet deep, and would have to be + drifted. These we managed to hold until winter, and in the + meantime we worked along the river and could make something + all the time.<br> + </p> + <p>We put in a flume between two falls on the Middle Fork, but + made only wages, and I got my arm nearly broken, and had to + work with one hand for nearly a month.<br> + </p> + <p>One afternoon I went crevicing up the river, and found a + crevice at the water's edge about half an inch wide, and the + next day we worked it out getting forty ounces, and many of + the pieces were about an inch long and as large around as a + pipe-stem.<br> + </p> + <p>Winter was now near by, and we set to work to build a cabin + and lay in a stock of grub, which cost quite a good deal, for + the self-raising flour which we bought was worth twenty cents + a pound, and all kinds of hog meat fifty cents, with other + supplies in proportion. Our new claims now paid very well. + Snow came down to the depth of about four feet around our + cabin, but as our work was under ground, we had a comfortable + place all winter.<br> + </p> + <p>In the spring McCloud and I went to Sacramento and sold our + chunks of gold (it was all very coarse) to Page, Bacon & + Co. who were themselves surprised at the coarseness of the + whole lot. When our savings were weighed up we found we had + made half an ounce a day, clear of all expenses, for the + entire year.<br> + </p> + <p>We now took a little run down to San Francisco, also to + Santa Clara where we staid a night or two with Mr. McCloud's + friend, Mr. Otterson, and then went back to our claims again. + In taking care of our money we had to be our own bankers, and + the usual way was to put the slugs we received for pay into a + gallon pickle jar, and bury this in some place known only to + our particular selves, and these vaults we considered + perfectly safe. The slugs were fifty dollar pieces, coined for + convenience, and were eight-sided, heavy pieces. In the + western counties the people called them "Adobies," + but among the miners they were universally known as + "Slugs."<br> + </p> + <p>The winter proved a little lonesome, the miners mostly + staid at home and worked. During the year we had been here I + had not seen a respectable woman in this mining country. There + were few females here, and they were said to be of very + doubtful character. As a general thing people were very + patient with their wickedness, but not always.<br> + </p> + <p>Twice only in the history of California were women made the + victims of mob violence, once at Los Angeles and once at + Downieville. The affair at the last-named place occurred in + 1851, and the victim was a pretty little Spanish woman named + Juanita. She and her husband, like many another couple at that + time, kept a monte game for the delectation of the miners who + had more money than sense, but beyond this fact absolutely + nothing was said against her character.<br> + </p> + <p>There was an English miner named Cannon living in town, who + was very popular among a large number of gamblers and others. + He got drunk one night and about midnight went to the house + occupied by the Spanish woman and her husband and kicked the + door down. Early the following morning he told his comrades + that he was going to apologize to the woman for what he had + done. He went alone to the house, and, while talking with the + husband and wife, the woman suddenly drew a knife and stabbed + Cannon to the heart. What had been said that provoked the deed + was never known, further than that Juanita claimed she had + been grossly insulted.<br> + </p> + <p>She was given a mock trial, but the facts of the case were + not brought out, as the men who were with Cannon were too + drunk to remember what had happened the previous night. It was + a foregone conclusion that the poor woman was to be hanged, + and the leaders of the mob would brook no interference. A + physician examined Juanita and announced to the mob that she + was in a condition that demanded the highest sympathy of every + man, but he was forced to flee from town to save his life. A + prominent citizen made an appeal for mercy, but he was driven + down the main street and across the river by a mob with drawn + revolvers, and with threats of instant death. The well-known + John B. Weller was in town at the time, and was asked to + reason with the mob, but refused to do so.<br> + </p> + <p>The execution was promptly carried out. A plank was put + across the supports of the bridge over the Yuba, and a rope + fastened to a beam overhead. Juanita went calmly to her death. + She wore a Panama hat, and after mounting the platform she + removed it, tossed it to a friend in the crowd, whose nickname + was "Oregon," with the remark, "Adios + amigo." Then she adjusted the noose to her own neck, + raising her long, loose tresses carefully in order to fix the + rope firmly in its place, and then, with a smile and wave of + her hand to the bloodthirsty crowd present, she stepped calmly + from the plank into eternity. Singular enough, her body rests + side by side, in the cemetery on the hill, with that of the + man whose life she had taken.<br> + </p> + <p>On Sundays Downieville was full of men, none very old, and + none very young, but almost every one of middle age. Nearly + every man was coarsely dressed, with beard unshaved and many + with long hair, but on any occasion of excitement it was not + at all strange to see the coarsest, roughest looking one of + all the party mount a stump and deliver as eloquent an address + as one could wish to hear. On Sunday it was not at all unusual + for some preacher to address the moving crowd, while a few + feet behind him would be a saloon in full blast, and drinking, + gambling, swearing and vulgar language could be plainly seen + and heard at the same time, and this class of people seemed to + respect the Sunday preacher very little. The big saloon was + owned by John Craycroft, formerly a mate on a Mississippi + River steamboat, who gained most of his money by marrying a + Spanish woman and making her a silent partner.<br> + </p> + <p>One enterprising man who was anxious to make money easily, + took a notion to try his luck in trade, so, as rats and mice + were troublesome in shops and stores, he went down to the + valley and brought up a cargo of cats which he disposed of at + prices varying from fifty to one hundred dollars each, + according to the buyer's fancy.<br> + </p> + <p>During the summer Kelley the fiddler came up in the mines + to make a raise, and Craycroft made him a pulpit about ten + feet above the floor in his saloon, having him to play nights + and Sundays at twenty dollars per day. He was a big uneducated + Irishman, who could neither read nor write, but he played and + sang and talked the rich Irish brogue, all of which brought + many customers to the bar. In the saloon could be seen all + sorts of people dealing different games, and some were said to + be preachers. Kelley staid here as long as he could live on + his salary, and left town much in debt, for whiskey and cards + got all his money.<br> + </p> + <p>One of the grocers kept out a sign, "CHEAP JOHN, THE + PACKER," and kept a mule to deliver goods, which no other + merchant did, and in this way gained many friends, and many + now may praise the enterprise of Cheap John, the Packer. + Prices were pretty high in those days. Sharpening picks cost + fifty cents, a drink of whiskey one dollar, and all kinds of + pork, fifty cents per pound. You could get meals at the + McNutty house for one dollar. The faro and monte banks + absorbed so much of the small change that on one occasion I + had to pay five dollars for a two dollar pair of pants in + order to get a fifty dollar slug changed.<br> + </p> + <p>No white shirts were worn by honest men, and if any man + appeared in such a garment he was at once set down as a + gambler, and with very little chance of a mistake. One Langdon + had the only express office, and brought letters and packages + from Sacramento. I paid one dollar simply to get my name on + his letter list, and when a letter came I had to pay one + dollar for bringing it up, as there was no Post Office at + Downieville.<br> + </p> + <p>Newspapers were eagerly sought for, such was the hunger for + reading. The Western folks bought the St. Louis papers, while + Eastern people found the New York Tribune a favorite. One + dollar each for such papers was the regular price. It may seem + strange, but aside from the news we got from an occasional + newspaper, I did not hear a word from the East during the two + years I remained on Yuba river. Our evenings were spent in + playing cards for amusement, for no reading could be got. The + snow between Marysville and Downieville was deep and + impassable in winter, but we could work our drifting claims + very comfortably, having laid in a stock of provisions early + in the season, before snowfall. The nights seemed tediously + long and lonesome, for when the snow was deep no one came to + visit us, and we could go nowhere, being completely hemmed in. + All the miners who did not have claims they could work + underground, went down below the winter snow-line to find + work, and when the snow went off came back again and took + possession of the old claims they had left.<br> + </p> + <p>After the snow went off three German sailors came up and + took a river claim a short distance above us on a north fork + of the north fork of the stream, where one side of the + cañon was perpendicular and the other sloped back only + slightly. Here they put logs across the river, laid stringers + on these, and covered the bottom with fir boughs. Then they + put stakes at the sides and rigged a canvas flume over their + bridge through which they turned the whole current of the + river, leaving a nearly dry bed beneath. This we called pretty + good engineering and management on the part of the sailor + boys, for no lumber was to be had, and they had made + themselves masters of the situation with the material on + hand.<br> + </p> + <p>They went to work under their log aqueduct, and found the + claim very rich in coarse gold. They went to town every + Saturday night with good big bags of dust, and as they were + open-hearted fellows, believing that a sailor always has the + best of luck, they played cards freely, always betting on the + Jack and Queen, and spent their money more easily than they + earned it. They were quite partial to the ladies, and + patronizing the bar and card tables as liberally as they did, + usually returned to camp on Monday or Tuesday with a mule load + of grub and whiskey as all the visible proceeds of a week's + successful mining; but when Saturday night came around again + we were pretty sure to see the jolly sailors going past with + heavy bags of gold. They left one nearly pure piece of gold at + Langdon's Express office that weighed five pounds, and another + as large as a man's hand, of the shape of a prickly pear + leaf.<br> + </p> + <p>They worked their claim with good success until the snow + water came down and forced them out. I went one day to see + them, and they took a pan of dirt from behind a big rock and + washed it out, getting as much as two teacupfuls of nuggets, + worth perhaps a thousand dollars. When they went away they + said they would go to Germany to see their poor relatives and + friends, and one of them really went home, but the other two + had spent all their money before they were ready to leave San + Francisco. These men were, without doubt, the inventors of the + canvas flume which was afterward used so successfully in + various places.<br> + </p> + <p>While I was still here the now famous Downieville Butte + quartz mine was discovered, but there was no way then of + working quartz successfully, and just at that time very little + was done with it, but afterward, when it was learned how to + work it, and the proper machinery introduced, it yielded large + sums of bullion.<br> + </p> + <p>The miners had a queer way of calling every man by some + nickname or other instead of his true name, and no one seemed + offended at it, but answered to his new name as readily as to + any.<br> + </p> + <p>It was nearly fall when we found we had worked our claims + out, and there were no new ones we could locate here, so we + concluded to go prospecting for a new locality. I bought a + donkey in town of a Mr. Hawley, a merchant, for which I paid + sixty dollars, and gave the little fellow his old master's + name. We now had two animals, and we packed on them our + worldly goods, and started south up the mountain trail by way + of the city of six, where some half dozen men had located + claims, but the ground was dry and deep, so we went on.<br> + </p> + <p>We still went south, down toward the middle Yuba River and + when about half way down the mountain side came to a sort of + level bench where some miners were at work, but hardly any + water could be had. They called this Minnesota. We stayed here + a day or two, but as there seemed to be no possible further + development of water, concluded to go on further. Across the + river we could see a little flat, very similar to the one we + were on, and a little prospecting seemed to have been done on + the side of the mountain. We had a terribly steep cañon + to cross, and a river also, with no trail to follow, but our + donkeys were as good climbers as any of us, so we started down + the mountain in the morning, and arrived at the river about + noon. Here we rested an hour or two and then began climbing + the brushy mountain side. The hill was very steep, and the sun + beat down on us with all his heat, so that with our hard labor + and the absence of any wind we found it a pretty hot + place.<br> + </p> + <p>It was pretty risky traveling in some places, and we had to + help the donkeys to keep them from rolling down the hill, pack + and all. It took us four hours to make a mile and a half or + two miles in that dense brush, and we were nearly choked when + we reached the little flat. Here we found some water, but no + one lived here. From here we could see a large flat across a + deep cañon to the west, and made up our minds to try to + go to it. We went around the head of the cañon, and + worked through the brush and fallen timber, reaching our + objective point just as night was coming on. This flat, like + the one we had left, was quite level, and contained, perhaps, + nearly one hundred acres. Here we found two men at work with a + "long tom"—a Mr. Fernay and a Mr. Bloat. They + had brought the water of a small spring to their claim and + were making five or six dollars per day. We now prospected + around the edge of this flat, and getting pretty fair + prospects concluded we would locate here if we could get + water.<br> + </p> + <p>We then began our search for water and found a spring about + three quarters of a mile away, to which we laid claim, and + with a triangle level began to survey out a route for our + ditch. The survey was satisfactory, and we found we could + bring the water out high on the flat, so we set to work + digging at it, and turned the water in. The ground was so very + dry that all the water soaked up within two hundred yards of + the spring.<br> + </p> + <p>By this time we were out of grub, and some one must go for + a new supply, and as we knew the trail to Downieville was + terribly rough, I was chosen as the one to try to find Nevada + City, which we thought would be nearer and more easily + reached. So I started south with the donkeys, up the mountain + toward the ridge which lies between the middle and south Yuba + Rivers, and when I got well on the ridge I found a trail used + some by wagons, which I followed till I came to a place where + the ridge was only wide enough for a wagon, and at the west + end a faint trail turned off south into the rolling hills. I + thought this went about the course I wanted to go, so I + followed it, and after two or three miles came to the south + Yuba river. This seemed to be an Indian trail, no other signs + on it. I climbed the mountain here, and when I reached the top + I found a large tent made of blue drilling, and here I found I + was four or five miles from Nevada City with a good trail to + follow. The rolling hills I then passed through are now called + North Bloomfield, and at one time were known as + "Humbug."<br> + </p> + <p>I started along the trail and soon reached the city where I + drove my donkeys up to a store which had out the sign + "Davis & Co.." I entered and inquiring the + prices of various sorts of provisions such as flour, bacon, + beans, butter, etc., soon had selected enough for two donkey + loads. They assisted me in putting them in pack, and when it + was ready I asked the amount of my bill, which was one hundred + and fifty dollars. This I paid at once, and they gave me some + crackers and dried beef for lunch on the way. Davis + said—"That is the quickest sale I ever made, and + here the man is ready to go. I defy any one to beat it." + Before sun down I was two or three miles on my way back where + I found some grass and camped for the night, picketed the + animals, ate some of Mr. Davis' grub for supper, and arranged + a bed of saddle blankets. I arrived at camp the next day about + sun down.<br> + </p> + <p>Next day I went on up the divide and found a house on the + trail leading farther east, where two men lived, but they + seemed to be doing nothing. There were no mines and miners + near there, and there seemed to be very little travel on the + trail. The fellows looked rough, and I suspected they might be + bad characters. The stream they lived near was afterward + called Bloody Run, and there were stories current that blood + had been shed there.<br> + </p> + <p>Here was a section of comparatively level land, for the + mountain divide, and a fine spring of good cold water, all + surrounded by several hundred acres of the most magnificent + sugar pines California ever raised, very large, straight as a + candle, and one hundred feet or more to the lowest limbs. This + place was afterward called Snow Tent, and S.W. Churchill built + a sawmill at the spring, and had all this fine timber at the + mercy of his ax and saw, without anyone to dispute his right. + He furnished lumber to the miners at fifty dollars or more per + thousand feet. Bloody Run no doubt well deserves its name, for + there was much talk of killing done there.<br> + </p> + <p>I, however, went up and talked to the men and told them I + wished to hire a cross cut saw for a few days to get out stuff + for a cabin, and agreed to pay two dollars a day for the use + of it till it came back.<br> + </p> + <p>We cut down a large sugar pine, cut off four six feet cuts, + one twelve feet, and one sixteen feet cut, and from these we + split out a lot of boards which we used to make a V-shaped + flume which we placed in our ditch, and thus got the water + through. We split the longer cuts into two inch plank for + sluice boxes, and made a small reservoir, so that we succeeded + in working the ground. We paid wages to the two men who + worked, and two other men who were with us went and built a + cabin.<br> + </p> + <p>I now went and got another load of provisions, and as the + snow could be seen on the high mountains to the east, I + thought the deer must be crowded down to our country, so I + went out hunting and killed a big fat buck, and the next day + three more, so fresh meat was plenty.<br> + </p> + <p>About this time a man came down the mountain with his oxen + and wagon, wife and three or four children, the eldest a young + lady of fifteen years. The man's name was H. M. Moore. We had + posted notices, according to custom, to make mining laws, and + had quite a discussion about a name for the place. Some of the + fellows wanted to name it after the young lady, "Minda's + Flat," but we finally chose "Moore's Flat" + instead, which I believe is the name it still goes by. Our + laws were soon completed, and a recorder chosen to record + claims. We gave Mr. Moore the honor of having a prospecting + town named after him because he was the first man to be on + hand with a wife.<br> + </p> + <p>I became satisfied after a little that this place would be + a very snowy place, and that from all appearances it would + fall from two to four feet deep, and not a very pleasant place + to winter in. An honest acquaintance of mine came along, + Samuel Tyler and to him I let my claim to work on shares and + made McCloud my agent, verbally, while I took my blankets and + started for the valley.<br> + </p> + <p>The first town I passed through was a newly discovered + mining town called French Corral. Here I found an old + Wisconsin friend Wm. Sublet, the foster father of the + accomplishen wife of Mayor S.W. Boring of San Jose. From here + I went to Marysville. The storm had been raging high in the + mountains for some days, and the Yuba river rising fast, + overflowing its banks as I walked into town, and the next day + the merchants were very busy piling their goods above high + water mark. I went to a hotel and called for a bed. + "Yes," says the landlord "Is your name John or + Peter?" I told him William, which he set down in his book + and we went up stairs to the best room which was fitted up + with berths three tiers high on each side, and only one or two + empty ones. He looked around for covers, but none could be + found unoccupied, but one fellow who was sound asleep and + snoring awfully, so he took the blanket off from him saying: + "He wont know a thing about it till morning, be jabers, + so don't say a word."<br> + </p> + <p>Next morning the river was booming, its surface covered + with all sorts of mining outfit such as flume timber, rockers, + various qualities of lumber, pieces of trees as well as whole + ones, water wheels and other traps. The river between + Downieville and here must have been swept clean of all + material that would float, including "long Toms." + The water continued to rise till it covered the Plaza, and in + two days a steamer came up and sailed across the public + square. This looked like a wet season to me, and when the boat + was ready to go down the river I went on board, bound for + Sacramento. Here it was also getting terrible wet and muddy, + and the rain kept pouring down. In the morning I worked my way + up J street and saw a six-mule team wading up the streets the + driver on foot, tramping through the sloppy mud, occasionally + stepping in a hole and falling his whole length in the mud. On + the street where so much trouble was met by the teamsters, a + lot of idlers stood on the sidewalk, and when a driver would + fall and go nearly out of sight, they would, like a set of + loafers, laugh at him and blackguard him with much noise, and + as they were numerous they feared nothing.<br> + </p> + <p>Suddenly a miner, who had lately arrived from the + mountains, raised his room window in the second story of a + house, put out one leg and then his body, as far as he could, + and having nothing on but his night clothes, shouted to the + noisy crowd below:—"Say can't you d----d farmers + plow now?" At this he dodged back quickly into his window + as if he expected something might be thrown at him. The rain + continued, and the water rose gradually till it began to run + slowly through the streets, and all the business stopped + except gambling and drinking whisky, which were freely carried + on in the saloons day and night.<br> + </p> + <p>While here in Sacramento I was sufficiently prompted by + curiosity to go around to the place on J street where the + Legislature was in session. I stood sometime outside the + enclosure listening to the members who were in earnest debate + over a question concerning the size of mining claims. They + wanted them uniform in size all over the state, but there was + some opposition, and the debate on this occasion was between + the members from the mining counties on one side and the + "cow" counties on the other. The miners took the + ground that the claims were of different richness in the + different mining localities and that the miners themselves + were the best judges of the proper size of claims, and were + abundantly able to make their own laws as they had done under + the present mining customs, and their laws had always been + respected, making any further legislative action + unnecessary.<br> + </p> + <p>While this wrangle was going on. Capt. Hunt, of San + Bernardino (our guide from Salt Lake in 1849), came along and + stopped where I stood, shaking me heartily by the hand, + inquiring where I was from, and when I told him I was from the + mines he said he thought the cow county fellows were trying to + make the miners some trouble. I told him the present mining + regulations suited us very well, and after he had talked with + me a little he went inside and whispered to some of the silent + members that the miners wanted no change, for he had just + consulted a miner to that effect. When occasion offered he + called for a vote which resulted in the defeat of the cow + counties and a postponement of the measure indefinitely.<br> + </p> + <p>My next move was to try to find a dryer place so I took a + boat for Benicia, then for Stockton, where I found a sea of + mud, so that a man needed stilts or a boat to cross the + street.<br> + </p> + <p>Here in a livery stable I found my old Platte River boss, + Chas. Dallas, for whom I drove in 1849, but he did not seem to + know me and took no notice of me, but talked "horse" + and horse-racing to the bystanders very loudly. I suppose that + Dallas had made money and did not care for a poor ox driver, + and on my part I did not care very much for his friendship, so + I walked away and left him without a word.<br> + </p> + <p>Every way I looked was a sea of black, sticky mud; dogs + mired in the streets and died, and teams and animals had + forsaken the usual route of travel. The gambling houses and + saloons were crowded, gum boots in demand, and the only way to + get out of town was by water. I took this way out, and on the + same boat by which I came, going to San Francisco. This was + high and dry enough to be above the highest floods of Yuba, + Sacramento or San Joaquin, but all business except the saloons + was dull. Fronting on Portsmouth Square was the Hall of + Corruption. Inside was a magnificently furnished bar, more + than one keeper and various gambling tables, most of them with + soiled doves in attendance. The room was thronged with players + and spectators, and coin and dust were plenty. The dealers + drew off their cards carefully, and seemed to have the largest + pile of coin on their side.<br> + </p> + <p>I climbed Russian Hill and to take a look over the city. It + seemed poorly built, but the portion that had been burned in + July 1852, had been built up again. The business part was near + the beach and north of Market street.<br> + </p> + <p>I had never lived in a town and did not know its ways, so I + strolled around alone, for without acquaintance I did not know + where to go nor what to look for. I therefore thought I would + see some other part of the country. I found that a schooner + was about to sail for San Pedro, near Los Angeles. I took hold + of a rope to help myself on board, when it gave way and I + found myself floundering in the water. They helped me out and + the Captain gave me a dry suit to put on, I was profoundly + grateful for the favor, and found him a generous man.<br> + </p> + <p>We sailed away and stopped at Monterey for 24 hours which + gave me a good chance for a good look at the old Capitol + houses, which were of adobe, and to find that this city was + also liberally supplied with gambling, card and billiard + tables. The majority of the people were Spanish and fond of + gaming, and the general appearance of the place was old and + without good improvements, though there were more two-story + houses than in most places in California.<br> + </p> + <p>Some houses were of stone, but more of adobe, and there + seemed to be no fertile country round, and the hills about had + small pines on them.<br> + </p> + <p>Some of the sailors went out and gathered a large bag of + mussels and clams, from which they made a liberal allowance of + chowder for the table. After seven or eight days we arrived in + San Pedro, and found the town to consist of one long adobe + house. The beach was low and sandy, and we were wet somewhat + in wading through a light surf to get on shore. We had on + board a Mr. Baylis, who we afterward learned came down with + Capt. Lackey on a big speculation which was to capture all the + wild goats they could on Catalina Island, and take them to San + Francisco for slaughtering.<br> + </p> + <p>The goats were easily captured and taken on board the + schooner, and thence to shore but many were drowned in the + transit, and when driven to San Francisco the dead were + scattered all along the route. Although wild they seemed to + lack the vitality that tame goats possess. The speculation + proved a disappointment to the projectors.<br> + </p> + <p>At the adobe house, kept by a Spaniard we had breakfast, + then shouldered our packs for the march of ten leagues to Los + Angeles for there was no chance to ride. It was night before + we reached the City of Angels, and here I staid a day to take + a look at the first city I saw in California in March + 1850.<br> + </p> + <p>I inquired for my mining companion, W.M. Stockton who + worked with Bennett and myself near Georgetown in 1850, and + found he lived near the old mission of San Gabriel nine miles + away, whither I walked and found him and family well and glad + to see me. He had jumped an old pear orchard which was not + claimed by the Mission Fathers, although it was only + three-fourths of a mile away. The trees were all seedlings and + very large, probably 50 or more years old. Some of the Mission + buildings were falling down since they had been abandoned, and + the Americans would go to these houses and remove the tile + flooring from the porches and from the pillars that supported + them. These tiles were of hard burned clay, in pieces about a + foot square, and were very convenient to make fire places and + pavements before the doors of their new houses. Out-side the + enclosed orange and fig orchard at this place were some large + olive and fig trees, apparently as old as the mission, being a + foot or more in diameter and about 50 feet high. I had never + seen olives, and when I saw these trees covered with plenty of + fruit about the size of damson plums I took the liberty of + tasting it and found it very disagreeable, and wondered of + what use such fruit could be.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Stockton fenced his orchard by setting posts and tying + sycamore poles to them to keep the stock away, built an adobe + house on the claim and called the property his. I went to work + for him at once, pruning the trees, which improved their + appearance, and then turned on a little stream of water which + ran through the place, and on down to the mission. With this + treatment the trees did well without cultivation.<br> + </p> + <p>I bought one half the stock consisting of some Spanish + cows, one yoke of oxen and some horses, worked enough to pay + my board, watched the stock and still had plenty of time to + ride around over the adjoining country.<br> + </p> + <p>When the pears were ripe the Spanish men, women and + children eagerly bought them at 25 cents per dozen and some + Sundays the receipts for fruit sold would be as high as $100. + That taken to town would bring from $5. to $8. per box, the + boxes being a little larger than those in present use. An + Indian woman, widow of a Mr. Reed, claimed a vineyard near the + orchard, and laid claim to the whole property, so Stockton + gave her $1000 for a quit claim deed.<br> + </p> + <p>Near by was a small artificial lake made by a dam of cobble + stones, laid in cement across a ravine, which was built + perhaps 50 years before, and yet the tracks of a child who had + walked across before the cement was dry, were plainly + seen.<br> + </p> + <p>Stockton and I visited Mr. Roland, an old settler who lived + south of San Gabriel river, and staid all night with him, + finding him very sociable and hospitable. All his work was + done by Indians who lived near by, and had been there as long + as he. He had a small vineyard, and raised corn, squashes, + melons and all that are necessary for his table, having also a + small mill near by for grinding corn and wheat without + bolting. The Indians made his wine by tramping the grapes with + their feet in a rawhide vat hung between four poles set in the + ground. The workmen were paid off every Saturday night, and + during Sunday he would generally sell them wine enough to get + about all the money back again. This had been his practice for + many years, and no doubt suited Mr. Roland as well as the red + men.<br> + </p> + <p>Roland was an old Rocky Mountain trapper who came to + California long before gold was discovered, and during the + evening the talk naturally ran to the subject of early + days.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Roland related that while his party were in camp in the + upper Colorado they were visited by a small band of Indians + who professed friendship and seated themselves around the + fire. Suddenly they made an attack and each trapper had an + Indian to contend with, except Mr. Roland who was left to be + dispatched afterwards. But as he ran, a squaw among them + followed him, and after a while overtook him and showed + friendship. He had neither gun or knife and so concluded to + put faith in the woman who safely guided him in a long tramp + across the desert where they both came near starving, but + finally reached Los Angeles Valley, when the brave squaw + mingled with her own people and he lost sight of her + forever.<br> + </p> + <p>No white man could alone have traversed that desert waste + and found food enough to last him half the journey.<br> + </p> + <p>He gradually learned to speak Spanish, and was granted the + piece of land he applied for, and where he then lived; married + a Spanish girl, with whom he had a happy home and raised a + large family, and grew rich, for they were both industrious + and economical. The first wife died, and he was persuaded to + marry a Texas widow, and now had to buy the first carriage he + ever owned, and furnish a fine turn-out and driver for the + lady, who wore much jewelry and fine clothes, and spent money + freely. Roland was not a society man, his thoughts and habits + were different from his wife, and he staid at home, better + contented there.<br> + </p> + <p>There were many other pioneers in the neighborhood, Dan + Sexton, Col. Williams, of Chino ranch, Workman, B.D. Wilson, + Abel Stearns, Temple, Wolfskill and many others, Scott and + Granger were lawyers. Granger was the same man who read the + preamble and resolutions that were to govern our big train as + we were about to start from Utah Lake.<br> + </p> + <p>Scott was quite a noted member of the bar, and when Gen. + Winfield Scott ran for President, some wide awake politicians + caused the uneducated Spaniards to vote for their favorite + lawyer instead of the redoubtable general, and they did this + with a good will for they thought the famous avocado was the + best man, and thus the manipulators lost many votes to the + real candidate. Scott was afterward retained by many of the + Spaniards to present their claims for their land to the U.S. + Government and was considered a very able man.<br> + </p> + <p>Mr. Stockton related that when he left his family here to + go to the mines he rented one half a house of Michael Blanco + who had a Spanish wife and children, and these and his own + were of course constant playmates. When he returned in the + fall he found his children had learned to speak Spanish and + nearly forgotten English, so that he had to coax them a great + deal to get them to talk to him at all, and he could not + understand a word they said.<br> + </p> + <p>I now tried to learn the language myself. I had money to + loan, and the borrowers were Spanish who gave good security + and paid from 5 to 25 per cent interest per month, on short + time. Mrs. Stockton assisted me very much as an + interpreter.<br> + </p> + <p>I bought young steers for $8. each and gradually added to + my herd. I got along well until next spring when the beef + eating population began to steal my fat cattle, and seemed + determined I should get no richer. The country was + over-stocked with desperate and lawless renegades in Los + Angeles and from one to four dead men was about the number + picked up in the streets each morning. They were of low class, + and there was no investigation, simply a burial at public + expense.<br> + </p> + <p>The permanent Spanish population seemed honest and + benevolent, but there were many bad ones from Chili, Sonora, + Mexico, Texas, Utah and Europe, who seemed always on an errand + of mischief a murder, thieving or robbery.<br> + </p> + <p>Three or four suspicious looking men came on horseback and + made their camp near the Mission under an oak tree, where they + staid sometime. They always left someone in camp while the + others went away every day on their horses, and acted so + strangely that the report soon became current that they were + stealing horses and running them off to some safe place in the + mountains till a quantity could be accumulated to take to the + mines to sell. On this information the Vigilance Committee + arrested the man in camp and brought him to a private room, + where he was tried by twelve men, who found him guilty of + horse stealing, and sentenced to be hung at once, for horse + stealing was a capital offence in those days.<br> + </p> + <p>To carry out the sentence they procured a cart, put a box + on it for a seat, and with a rope around his neck and seated + on the box, the condemned man was dragged off by hand to an + oak tree not far away, whither he was followed by all the men, + women and children of the place, who where nearly all natives. + While preparations were being made under the tree some one + called out that men were riding rapidly from the direction of + Los Angeles, and from the dust they raised seemed to be more + than usually in haste. So it was proposed to wait till they + came up. It was soon known that an Indian had been sent to Los + Angeles to give news to the man's friends there, and they had + come with all the speed of their horses to try to save his + life. They talked and inquired around a little and then + proposed the question whether to hang him or to turn him over + to the lawful authorities for regular trial. This was put to a + vote and it was decided to spare him now. So the rope was + taken off his neck, and he was turned over to Mr. Mallard the + Mission Justice of the Peace, much to the relief of the fellow + who saw death staring him in the face.<br> + </p> + <p>The Santa Anita ranch, now owned by E.J. Baldwin, was owned + by Henry Dalton, an Englishman, who came with a stock of goods + worth $75,000, years before, but now had only the ranch left. + The Azuza, a short distance south was occupied by his + brother.<br> + </p> + <p>I became well acquainted with many of these old California + natives, and found them honest in their dealings, good to the + needy and in all my travels never found more willing hands to + bestow upon relatives, friends or strangers ready relief than + I saw among these simple natives. Their kindness to our party + when we came starving on the desert in 1850, can never be + praised enough, and as long as I shall live my best wishes + shall go with them.<br> + </p> + <p>I was one day riding with Vincent Duarte down toward + Anaheim when he suddenly dismounted to kill a large tarantula + by pelting him with stones. It was the first one I had seen, + and seemed an over-grown spider. I asked him if the thing was + harmful, and he replied with considerable warmth, "Mucho + malo por Christianos" and I wondered if the insect knew + saints from sinners.<br> + </p> + <p>This spring we concluded to go to the Mormon settlement at + San Bernardino and secure some American bulls to improve our + stock, and starting late one day I rode as far as the Azuza + Rancho where I staid all night with Mr. Dalton, reaching the + holy city, a branch of Brigham Young's harem next day. Here I + found a town of log houses in a circle, enclosing a plaza. + There was a passage between the houses. I stopped at the + principal hotel kept by a vigorous and enthusiastic Mormon + woman, who delighted to preach the doctrine.<br> + </p> + <p>Walking around on the outside of the fortifications I came + across Capt. Hunt, the man who was hired in the fall of 1849 + to bring the big train from Salt Lake to San Bernardino.<br> + </p> + <p>I told him who I was, and what I wanted, and he seemed to + know me, inviting me in the most friendly and social manner to + take supper with him, which I did. He sat at the head of the + table and introduced me to his three wives. The furnishing of + the house was cheap and common, but the table was fairly + provided for. He said he would help me to find the animals I + wanted, and in the morning showed me two which he had, that + were young and suitable, and a larger one which he said I + could have if I could drive him.<br> + </p> + <p>I soon found out that I had better move or sell my cattle, + for with all my watching I could do they gradually + disappeared, and hungry thieves who could live on beef alone, + visited my little band of cattle too often and took what they + wanted, and I could not detect them. I soon sold to four + buyers from the north, L.D. Stevens, David Grant, Sam Craig + and Mr. Wilson, and hired out with my two horses to help them + drive the band north, at a salary of $100 per month.<br> + </p> + <p>Disposing most of my money with Palmer, Cook & Co., I + went to see my mine at Moore's Flat. There were two boats + leaving at about the same time, one for Stockton, and one for + Sacramento, the latter of which I took, and Rogers the other. + Both landed at Benecia, and when we swung away from that wharf + Rogers and I saluted each other with raised and swinging hats, + shouted a good bye, and I have never seen him since.<br> + </p> + <p>At Moore's Flat I found my mine well and profitably worked + by Mr. Tyler and as his lease was not out I returned to San + Jose, as I had learned from Rogers that Mr. A. Bennett was at + Watsonville, and Mr. Arcane at Santa Cruz, and I desired to + visit them. I rode back across the country and found Mr. + Bennett and family at the point where the Salinas river enters + Monterey Bay. They were all well, and were glad to see me for + they did not know I was in California. Mrs. Bennett was + greatly affected at our meeting and shed tears of joy as she + shook hands.<br> + </p> + <p>Bennett had a nice Whitehall boat and we had a genuine + happy time hunting, fishing and gathering clams, and also in + social visits among the neighbors and old acquaintances, among + them one Jacob Rhodehouse of Wisconsin.<br> + </p> + <p>While here I rode my horse around to Monterey and to Carmel + Mission, where I staid two or three days, with Mr. Gourley, a + brother of Mrs. William M. Stockton, who was here engaged in + raising potatoes. I walked along the beach near some rocky + islands near the shore, and on these rocks were more sea lions + and seals than I supposed the whole ocean contained—the + most wonderful show of sea life on the California coast. + Returning I staid all night at the crossing of the Salinas + with a colored family who gave me good accommodations for self + and horse. I heard afterward that this family was attacked by + robbers and all but one murdered.<br> + </p> + <p>Mrs. Bennett's father D.J. Dilley lived near here also, and + I had not seen him since the time in Wisconsin, when he hauled + my canoe over to the river in 1849. One day while fishing on + the beach we found the body of a man, which we carried above + the tide and buried in the sand.<br> + </p> + <p>I gave one of my horses to Geo. Bennett, and went over to + Santa Cruz, where I found Mr. and Mrs. J.B. Arcane and son + Charles in a comfortable home, well situated, and overjoyed to + see me.<br> + </p> + <p>He knew everyone in town, and as we went about he never + missed to introduce me to every one we met, as the man who + helped himself and family out of Death Valley, and saved their + lives. Arcane was a very polite Frenchman and knew how to + manage such things very gracefully, but with all his grace and + heartiness it made me feel quite a little embarrassed to be + made so much of publicly and among strangers. He took me in + his buggy and we drove along the beach, and to the lime-kiln + of Cowel & Jordan, also to the court house when court was + in session.<br> + </p> + <p>Upon the hill I met Judge Watson, the father of + Watsonville, and a Mr. Graham, an old settler and land owner, + and on this occasion he pulled a sheet of ancient, smoky + looking paper from beneath his arm, pointed to a dozen or so + of written lines in Spanish and then with a flourish of the + precious document in Watson's face dared him to beat that, or + get him off his land. I must say that never in my life was I + better entertained than here.<br> + </p> + <p>From Santa Cruz I crossed the mountain on a lonely and + romantic trail to San Jose again, finding very few houses on + the road. Here I went to work for R. G. Moody building a + gristmill on the banks of the Coyote Creek, to be run by water + from artesian wells. When the mill was done I went for my + horse, and on my return I ran very unexpectedly upon Davenport + Helms, to whom I had sold my little black mule in 1850. Our + talk was short but he told me he had killed a man in + Georgetown, and the sheriff was looking for him. He was now + venturing to town for tobacco, and would hurry back to the + hills again where he was herding cattle.<br> + </p> + <p>He said he kept them off at one time by getting in a piece + of chaparral and presenting his gun to them when they came + near, they dare not advance on him. Then he laughed and + said—"And all the time my gun was empty, for I did + not have a d----d thing to put into it." "I tell you + they don't catch old Davenport. Now don't you tell on me. + Good-bye." I saw him no more after that.<br> + </p> + <p>The town of San Jose was now more of a town than it was a + few years before. The "Forty Thieves," and others, + commenced building a city hall of brick on the top of old + adobe walls, and this was the principal improvement, except + the Moody mill near the Sutter house, one street north of + Julian.<br> + </p> + <p>After finishing work on the mill I drew my money from the + bank in San Francisco and started for the mines on horseback. + Near French Camp, on the east side of the San Joaquin Valley, + many cattle were feeding on the plains, and among them, much + to my surprise I found "Old Crump," the ox that + brought Bennett's and Arcane's children safe through from + Death Valley in February, 1850. He was now fat and sleek and + as kind and gentle as when so poor upon the terrible journey. + I got off my horse and went up to him, and patted my old + friend. I was glad to find him so contented and happy, and I + doubt not that he too was glad. I met a man near by and asked + him about the ox, and he said that the owner would not sell + him nor allow him to be worked, for he knew of the faithful + part he performed in the world, and respected him for it.<br> + </p> + <p>At Sacramento I deposited my money with Page, Bacon & + Co., a branch of the St. Louis firm of the same name, + considered the safest bank in the United States. Their bills + were taken in payment of Government land. Some rascals had + some counterfeit bills on their bank, and traded them off for + gold with the Missourians who were going home, and the poor + fellows found themselves poor on arrival.<br> + </p> + <p>Going to my mine, where I left only a cabin or two, I found + quite a village with two hotels and a post office.<br> + </p> + <p>News soon came that the banks had closed their door, and + Page and Bacon also, so I concluded that I was broke. The + "Pikers" said Page and Bacon could not, nor would + not fail, but news was against them. The boys now tried to + persuade me to go to Sacramento, and try to get my money and + if I succeeded, to bring up a good stock of goods and they + would buy of me in preference to any one else. On this showing + I went down, and finding my old friend Lyman Ross (well known + in San Jose) who was keeping a fruit store. I told him my + business and he took me to L.A. Booth, Carrol & Co., and I + stated to him the facts about my money in the bank and the + doors closed. I told him if he would assist me I would buy + $2000 worth of his goods, and send them to Moore's Flat. I + endorsed the certificate over to him, and in half an hour he + came back with the coin. How he got it I never knew, but he + did me a great favor, and we have been good friends ever + since. I was no merchant, nor had I any mercantile education, + so I took lessons from Mr. Booth, and allowed him to make out + for me a bill of goods such as he well knew I needed. With + these we loaded up two 6 mule teams, and started for the + mountain.<br> + </p> + <p>I had about $700 left besides paying for the goods, but I + felt a very little troubled as to my prospect for success, for + it was a new business to me. Mr. Booth in a business way was a + true father to me, and the much needed points in trade which + he gave me were stored away for the use I knew I would make of + them. Of all those whom I bear in grateful remembrance none + stand higher than this worthy man.<br> + </p> + <p>I went first direct to Nevada City to take out a license + that I might best protect myself against oppositions and from + there I had a walk of 18 miles over a rough mountain trail to + my selected place of business. Climbing the great hill of the + S. Yuba river I often tired and sat down to rest, and I used + this time to study my bill of goods, and add the freight and + profit to the cost, so as to be well posted, and able to + answer all questions readily when I unloaded the stock. The + new trade seemed quite a task to learn, but I felt that I was + compelled to succeed, and I worked manfully at it.<br> + </p> + <p>When I reached Moore's Flat I found that the boys had + rented a store for me, and their welcome was very hearty when + they found how lucky I had been in securing my money and + starting out as their "grub supplier."<br> + </p> + <p>Four of us now located some mining claims, and began a + tunnel both to drain the ground, and to work through the + bed-rock. This we named The Paradise, and we expected that + three or four months would elapse before we made it pay, but + there was in truth two years of solid rock-work before we got + under the ground, but it paid well in the end.<br> + </p> + <p>The largest nugget of gold ever found before this time was + a quartz boulder from the Buckeye sluice, about 8 by 10 inches + in size, and when cleaned up at the San Francisco mint the + value was about $10,000.<br> + </p> + <p>Two of my partners in the work, L.J. Hanchett, and Jas. + Clark ran out of funds at the end of the first year, and I + took as much of the expense as I could upon my own + shoulders.<br> + </p> + <p>About this time learning by a letter from her father that + Mrs. Bennett was lying at the point of death at Mr. L.C. + Bostic's in San Jose, I left H. Hanchett in charge of my + business, and in four days I stood beside the bedside of my + friend, endeared through the trials when death by thirst, + starvation and the desert sands, stared us in the face with + all its ghastliness.<br> + </p> + <p>She reached out her arms and drew me down to her, and + embraced me and said in a faint whisper—"God bless + you:—you saved us all till now, and I hope you will + always be happy and live long." She would have said more, + but her voice was so weak she could not be heard. She was very + low with consumption, and easily exhausted. I sat with her + much of the time at her request and though for her sake I + would have kept back the tears I could not always do it. Two + doctors came, one of them Dr. Spencer, and as I sat with my + face partly turned away I over heard Dr. S. say to his + assistant—"He is a manly man."<br> + </p> + <p>This presence and the circumstances brought back the trying + Death Valley struggles, when this woman and her companions, + and the poor children, so nearly starved they could not stand + alone, were only prevented from sitting down to die in sheer + despair by the encouraging words of Rogers and myself who had + passed over the road, and used every way to sustain their + courage.<br> + </p> + <p>She died the following day; with Mr. Bennett, I followed + her remains to Oak Hill cemetery, where she was buried near + the foot of the hill, and a board marked in large letters, + "S.B." (Sarah Bennett) placed to mark the mound. The + grave cannot now be found, and no records being then kept it + is probably lost.<br> + </p> + <p>I went home with Mr. Bennett to his home near Watsonville, + and spent several days, meeting several of our old Death + Valley party, and Mr. D.J. Dilley, Mrs. Bennett's father. Mrs. + Bennett left surviving her a young babe.<br> + </p> + <p>I returned to Moore's Flat, and soon sold out my store, + taking up the business of purchasing gold dust direct from the + miners, which I followed for about two years, and in the fall + of 1859 sold out the business to Marks & Powers. I looked + about through Napa and Sonoma Counties, and finally came to + San Jose, where I purchased the farm I now own, near + Hillsdale, of Bodley & McCabe, for which I paid + $4,000.<br> + </p> + <p>In the fall of the same year my old friend W.M. Stockton of + Los Angeles Co. persuaded me to come down and pay him a visit. + His wife had died and he felt very lonely. I had been there + but a few days when my old friend A. Bennett and his children + also came to Stockton's. The children had grown so much I + hardly knew them, but I was glad indeed to meet them.<br> + </p> + <p>I found Mr. Bennett to be a poor man. He had been persuaded + to go to Utah, being told that a fortune awaited his coming + there, or could be accumulated in a short time. He gave away + the little babe left by his wife to Mrs. Scott, of Scott's + Valley, in Santa Cruz Co. and sold his farm near the mouth of + the Salinas River. With what money he had accumulated he + loaded two 4 mule teams with dry goods, put his four children + into his wagon, and went to Cedar City, Utah.<br> + </p> + <p>He gave a thrilling account of passing through Mountain + Meadows, where he saw, here and there little groups of + skeletons of the unhappy victims of the great massacre at that + place of men, women and children, by J.D. Lee, and his Mormon + followers and told me the terrible story, which I here + omit.<br> + </p> + <p>Smarting under the terrible taxation of one tenth of + everything, Bennett grew poorer and poorer and at last + resolved that he must go away, but his wife could not leave + her own people, and so he set off with his children, somewhat + afraid he might be shot down, but he reached Los Angeles Co. + in safety. One daughter married a lawyer in San Bernardino, + and died a few years afterwards. The other married a Capt. + Johnson of Wilmington, and Bennett and two sons went to + Idaho.<br> + </p> + <p>A few years ago in passing from San Jose to the Coast, my + wife and I spent Sunday at Scott's Valley. Mrs. Scott invited + us to visit them in the evening at the house when all would be + at home. Mrs. Scott was the lady to whom Bennett gave his girl + baby when he started away for Utah, and I felt very anxious to + see her now she was grown up. Mrs. Scott introduced us, and I + sat and looked at the little woman quite a long time, but + could not see that she resembled either father or mother. My + mind ran back over the terrible road we came and I pictured to + myself the woman as she then appeared.<br> + </p> + <p>I studied over our early trials, crossing the plains over + the deserts and our trying scenes out of Death Valley and + turned all over in my mind for some time and finally all came + to me like a flash and I could clearly see that the little + lady was a true picture of her mother; I now began to ask + questions about her folks, she said her father lived near + Belmont, Nevada, and her grand-father died at the Monte, Los + Angeles county Cal.. Our visit now became very interesting and + we kept a late hour.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + <img height=343 alt="" src="images/ch_16.png" width=348 border=0> + <br> + + </div> + <hr> + <br> + <div align=center> + <h3><a name="Anchor-CHAPTE-54752"></a>CHAPTER XVII.<br> + </h3> + </div> + <p>Since writing the connected story which has thus far + appeared, I turn back to give some incidents of life in the + mines, and some description of those pioneer gold days.<br> + </p> + <p>I have spoken of Moore's Flat, Orleans Flat and Woolsey's + Flat, all similarly situated on different points of the + mountain, on the north side of the ridge between the South and + Middle Yuba River, and all at about the same altitude. A very + deep cañon lies between each of them, but a good + mountain road was built around the head of each cañon, + connecting the towns. When the snow got to be three or four + feet deep the roads must be broken out and communication + opened, and the boys used to turn out <i>en masse</i> and each + one would take his turn in leading the army of road breakers. + When the leader got tired out some one would take his place, + for it was terrible hard work to wade through snow up to one's + hips, and the progress very slow. But the boys went at it as + if they were going to a picnic, and a sort of picnic it was + when they reached the next town, for whisky was free and grub + plenty to such a party, and jollity and fun the uppermost + thoughts. On one such occasion when the crowd came through + Orleans Flat to Moore's Flat, Sid Hunt, the butcher, was in + the lead as they came in sight of the latter place, and both + he and his followers talked pretty loud and rough to the + Moore's Flat fellows calling them "lazy pups" for + not getting their road clear. Hunt's helper was a big stout, + loud talking young man named Williams, and he shouted to the + leader—"Sid Hunt, toot your horn if you don't sell + a clam." This seemed to put both sides in good humor, and + the Orleans fellows joined in a plenty to eat and drink, + rested and went home. Next day, both camps joined forces and + broke the road over to Woolsey's Flat, and the third day + crowded on toward Nevada City, and when out and across Bloody + Run, a stream called thus because some dead men had been found + at the head of the stream by the early settlers, and it was + suspected the guilty murderers lived not far off, they turned + down into Humbug, a town now called Bloomfield, and as they + went down the snow was not so deep. They soon met Sam Henry, + the express man, working through with letters and papers, and + all turned home again.<br> + </p> + <p>A young doctor came to Moore's Flat and soon became quite + popular, and after a little while purchased a small drug store + at Orleans Flat. In this town there lived a man and his family + and among them a little curly headed girl perhaps one or two + years old. She was sick and died and buried while the ground + was covered thick with snow. A little time after, it was + discovered that the grave had been disturbed, and on + examination no body was found in the grave.<br> + </p> + <p>Then it was a searching party was organized, and threats of + vengeance made against the grave robber if he should be + caught. No tracks were found leading out of town so they began + to look about inside, and there began to be some talk about + this Dr. Kittridge as the culprit. He was the very man, and he + went to his drug store and told his clerk to get a saddle + horse and take the dead child's body in a sack to his cabin at + Moore's Flat, and conceal it in a back room. The clerk obeyed, + and with the little corpse before him on the horse started + from the back door and rode furiously to Moore's Flat, and + concealed the body as he had been directed.<br> + </p> + <p>Some noticed that he had ridden unusually fast, and having + a suspicion that all was not right, told their belief to the + Orleans Flat people, who visited the Doctor at his store and + accused him of the crime, and talked about hanging him on the + spot without a trial. At this the Doctor began to be greatly + frightened and begged piteously for them to spare his life, + confessing to the deed, but pleading in extenuation that it + was for the purpose of confirming a question in his + profession, and wholly in the interest of science that he did + it, and really to spare the feelings of the parents that he + did it secretly. He argued that no real harm had been done, + and some of his friends sided with him in this view. But the + controversy grew warmer, and the house filled up with people. + Some were bloodthirsty and needed no urging to proceed to buy + a rope and use it. Others argued, and finally the Doctor said + that the body had not been dissected, and if they would allow + him, and appoint a committee to go with him, he would produce + the body, and they could decently bury it again and there it + might remain forever. This he promised to do, and all agreed + to it, and he kept his word, thus ending the matter + satisfactorily and the Doctor was released. But the feeling + never died out. The Doctor's friends deserted him, and no one + seemed to like to converse with him. At the saloon he would + sit like a perfect stranger, no one noticing him, and he soon + left for new fields.<br> + </p> + <p>The first tunnel run at Moore's Flat was called the + Paradise, and had to be started low on the side of the + mountain in order to drain the ground, and had to be blasted + through the bed rock for about 200 feet.<br> + </p> + <p>Four of us secured ground enough by purchase so we could + afford to undertake this expensive job and we worked on it day + and night. Jerry Clark and Len Redfield worked the day shifts, + and Sam King and Wm. Quirk the night shift. When the tunnel + was completed about 100 feet, the night shift had driven + forward the top of the tunnel as a heading, leaving the + bottom, which was about a foot thick, or more, to be taken out + by the day shift. They drilled a hole about two feet + horizontally to blast out this bench. King would sit and hold + the drill between his feet, while Quirk would strike with a + heavy sledge. When the hole was loaded they tramped down the + charge very hard so as to be sure it would not blow out, but + lift the whole bench. One day when they were loading a hole, + King told Quirk to come down pretty heavy on the tamping, so + as to make all sure, and after a few blows given as directed, + there was an explosion, and Quirk was forced some distance out + of the tunnel, his eyes nearly put out with dirt blown into + them, and his face and body cut with flying pieces of rock. He + was at first completely stunned, but after awhile recovered so + as to crawl out, and was slowly making his way up the hill on + hands and knees when he was discovered and helped to his cabin + where his wounds were washed and dressed.<br> + </p> + <p>Then a party with lighted candles entered the tunnel to + learn the fate of King, and they found him lying on the mass + of rock the blast had lifted, dead. On a piece of board they + bore the body to his cabin. There was hardly a whole bone + remaining. A cut diagonally across his face, made by a sharp + stone, had nearly cut his head in two. He had been thrown so + violently against the roof of the tunnel, about 6 feet high, + that he was completely mashed.<br> + </p> + <p>He had a wife in Mass. and as I had often heard him talk of + her, and of sending her money, I bought a $100 check and sent + it in the same letter which bore the melancholy news. King had + a claim at Chip's Flat which he believed would be very rich in + time, so I kept his interest up in it till it amounted to $500 + and then abandoned the claim and pocketed the loss.<br> + </p> + <p>We made a pine box, and putting his body in it, laid it + away with respect. I had often heard him say that if he + suffered an accident, he wished to be killed outright and not + be left a cripple, and his wish came true.<br> + </p> + <p>After this accident the blacksmith working for the Paradise + Co., was making some repairs about the surface of the air + shaft, and among his tools was a bar of steel an inch square, + and 8 or 10 feet long, which was thrown across the shaft, and + while working at the whim wheel he slipped and struck this bar + which fell to the bottom of the shaft, 100 feet deep and the + blacksmith followed. When the other workmen went down to his + assistance they found that the bar of steel had stuck upright + in the bottom of the shaft, and when the man came down it + pierced his body from hip to neck, killing him instantly. He + was a young man, and I have forgotten his name.<br> + </p> + <p>Those who came to California these later years will not + many of them see the old apparatus and appliances which were + used in saving the gold in those primitive days. Among them + was the old "Rocker." This had a bottom about 5 feet + long and 16 inches wide, with the sides about 8 inches high + for half the length, and then sloped off to two inches at the + end. There was a bar about an inch high across the end to + serve as a riffle, and on the higher end of this box is a + stationary box 14 inches square, with sides 4 inches high and + having a sheet iron bottom perforated with half inch holes. On + the bottom of the box are fastened two rockers like those on + the baby cradle, and the whole had a piece of board or other + solid foundation to stand on, the whole being set at an angle + to allow the gravel to work off at the lower end with the + water. A cleat was fastened across the bottom to catch the + gold, and this was frequently examined to see how the work was + paying, and taking out such coarse pieces as could be readily + seen. To work the rocker a pan of dirt would be placed in the + square screen box, and then with one hand the miner would rock + the cradle while he poured water with the other from a dipper + to wash the earth. After he had poured on enough water and + shaken the box sufficiently to pass all the small stuff + through he would stir over what remained in the screen box, + examining carefully for a nugget too large to pass through the + half inch holes. If the miner found that the dirt did not pay + he took his rocker on his back and went on in search of a + better claim.<br> + </p> + <p>Another way to work the dirt was to get a small head of + water running in a ditch, and then run the water and gravel + through a series of boxes a foot square and twelve feet long, + using from one to ten boxes as circumstances seemed to + indicate. At the lower end of these boxes was placed the + "Long Tom" which was about two feet wide at the + lower end, and having sides six inches high at the same point. + The side pieces extend out about 3 feet longer than the wooden + bottom, and are turned up to a point, some like a sled runner, + and this turned up part has a bottom of sheet iron punched + full of holes, the size of the sheet iron being about 3 feet + by 16 inches.<br> + </p> + <p>The miners shovel dirt into the upper end of the boxes + slowly, and regulate the water so that it dissolves the lumps + and chunks very thoroughly before it reaches the long tom + where a man stands and stirs the gravel over, and if nothing + yellow is seen throws the washed gravel away, and lets the + rest go through the screen. Immediately below this screen was + placed what was called a "riffle box," 2 by 4 feet + in size with bars 4 inches high across the bottom and sides, + and this box is set at the proper angle. Now when the water + comes through the screen it falls perpendicularly in this box + with force enough to keep the contents continually in motion, + and as the gold is much heavier than any other mineral likely + to be found in the dirt, it settles to the bottom, and all the + lighter stuff is carried away by the water. The gold would be + found behind the bars in the riffle box.<br> + </p> + <p>These methods of working were very crude, and we gradually + became aware that the finest dust was not saved, and many + improvements were brought into use. In my own mine the + tailings that we let go down the mountain side would lodge in + large piles in different places, and after lying a year, more + gold could be washed out of it than was first obtained, and + some of it coarser, so that it was plainly seen that a better + way of working would be more profitable. There was plenty of + ground called poor ground that had much gold in it but could + not be profitably worked with the rocker and long tom. The bed + rock was nearly level and as the land had a gradual rise, the + banks kept getting higher and higher as they dug farther in. + Now it was really good ground only down close to the bed rock, + but all the dirt had some gold in it, and if a way could be + invented to work it fast enough, such ground would pay. So the + plan of hydraulic mining was experimented upon.<br> + </p> + <p>The water was brought in a ditch or flume to the top of a + high bank, and then terminated in a tight box. To this box was + attached a large hose made by hand out of canvas, and a pipe + and nozzle attached to the lower end of the hose. Now as the + bank was often 100 feet or more high the water at this head, + when directed through the nozzle against the bank, fairly + melted it away into liquid mud. Imagine us located a mile + above the river on the side of a mountain. We dug at first + sluices in the rock to carry off the mud and water, and after + it had flowed in these a little way a sluice box was put in to + pass it through. These were made on a slope of one in twelve, + and the bottom paved with blocks, 3 inches thick, so laid as + to make a cavity or pocket at the corner of the blocks. After + passing the first sluice box the water and gravel would be run + in a bed rock sluice again, and then into another sluice box + and so on for a mile, passing through several sluice boxes on + the way. Quicksilver was placed in the upper sluice boxes, and + when the particles of gold were polished up by tumbling about + in the gravel, they combined with the quicksilver making an + amalgam.<br> + </p> + <p>The most gold would be left in the first sluice boxes but + some would go on down to the very last, where the water and + dirt was run off into the river. They cleaned up the first + sluices every week, a little farther down every month, while + the lower ones would only be cleaned up at the end of the + season.<br> + </p> + <p>In cleaning up, the blocks would be taken out of the boxes, + and every little crevice or pocket in the whole length of the + sluice cleaned out, from the bottom to the top, using little + hooks and iron spoons made for the purpose.<br> + </p> + <p>The amalgam thus collected was heated in a retort which + expelled the quicksilver in vapor, which was condensed and + used again.<br> + </p> + <p>When they first tried hydraulic work a tinsmith made a + nozzle out of sheet iron, but when put in practice, instead of + throwing a solid stream, it scattered like an shotgun, and up + at Moore's Flat they called the claims where they used it the + "shotgun" claims.<br> + </p> + <p>From that time great improvements were made in hydraulic + apparatus until the work done by them was really + wonderful.<br> + </p> + <p>In 1850 there lived at Orleans Flat and Moore's Flat, in + Nevada County a few young, energetic and very stirring + pioneers in the persons of lads from 10 to 15 years of age, + always on the search for a few dimes to spend, or add to an + already hoarded store, and the mountain air, with the wild + surroundings, seemed to inspire them always with lively vigor, + and especially when there was a prospect of a two-bit piece + not far ahead.<br> + </p> + <p>In winter when the deep snow cut off all communication with + the valley, our busy tinner ran short of solder, and seeing a + limited supply in the tin cans that lay thick about, he + engaged the boys to gather in a supply and showed them how + they could be melted down to secure the solder with which they + had been fastened, and thus provide for his immediate wants. + So the boys ransacked every spot where they had been thrown, + under the saloon and houses, and in old dump holes everywhere, + till they had gathered a pretty large pile which they fired as + he had told them, and then panned out the ashes to secure the + drops of metal which had melted down and cooled in small drops + and bits below. This was re-melted and cast into a mould made + in a pine block, and the solder made into regular form. About + one-third was made up thus in good and honest shape.<br> + </p> + <p>But the boys soon developed a shrewdness that if more fully + expanded might make them millionaires, but in the present + small way they hoped to put to account in getting a few extra + dimes. They put a big chunk of iron in the mould and poured in + the melted solder which enclosed it completely, so that when + they presented the bright silvery bar to the old tinker he + paid the price agreed upon and they divided the money between + them, and then, in a secure place, they laughed till their + sides ached at the good joke on the tinman.<br> + </p> + <p>In due time the man found out the iron core in his bar of + solder, and thought the joke such a good one that he told of + it in the saloon, and had to spend at least $5 in drinks to + ease off the laugh they had on him as the victim of the young + California pioneers. And these young fellows—some have + paddled their own canoe successfully into quiet waters and are + now in the fullness of life, happy in their possessions, while + some have been swamped on the great rushing stream of + business, and dwell in memory on the happy times gone by.<br> + </p> + <p>The older pioneers in these mining towns were, in many + respects a peculiar class of men. Most of them were sober and + industrious, fearless and venturesome, jolly and happy when + good luck came to them, and in misfortune stood up with brave, + strong, manly hearts, without a tear or murmur. They let the + world roll merrily by, were ever ready with joke, mirth and + fun to make their surroundings cheerful.<br> + </p> + <p>Fortunes came and went; they made money easily, and spent + it just as freely, and in their generosity and kindly charity + the old expression—"He has a heart like an ox" + fitted well the character of most of them.<br> + </p> + <p>When luck turned against them they worked the harder, for + the next turn might fill their big pockets with a fortune, and + then the dream of capturing a wife and building up a home + could be realized, and they would move out into the world on a + wave of happiness and plenty. This kind of talk was freely + carried on around the camp fire in the long evenings, and who + knows how many of these royal good fellows realized those + bright hopes and glorious anticipations? Who knows?<br> + </p> + <p>The names come back in memory of some of them, and others + have been forgotten. I recall Washington Work, H. J. Kingman, + A. J. Henderson, L. J. Hanchett, Jack Hays, Seth Bishop, Burr + Blakeslee, Jim Tyler, who was the loudest laugher in the town, + and as he lived at the Clifton House he was called "The + Clifton House Calf." These and many others might be + mentioned as typical good fellows of the mining days. The + biggest kind of practical joke would be settled amicably at + the saloon after the usual style.<br> + </p> + <p>One day Jack Hays bought a pair of new boots, set them down + in the store and went to turn off the miners supply of water. + When he returned he found his boots well filled with refuse + crackers and water. This he discovered when he took them up to + go to dinner, and as he poured out the contents at the door, a + half dozen boys across the street raised a big laugh at him, + and hooted at his discomfiture. Jack scowled an awful scowl, + and if he called them "pukes" with a few swear words + added, it was a mild way of pouring out his anger. But after + dinner the boys surrounded him and fairly laughed him into a + good humor, so that he set up drinks for the crowd.<br> + </p> + <p>Foot races were a great Sunday sport, and dog fights were + not uncommon. One dog in our camp was champion of the ridge, + and though other camps brought in their pet canines to eat him + up, he was always the top dog at the end of the scrimmage, and + he had a winning grip on the fore foot of his antagonist.<br> + </p> + <p>A big "husky" who answered to the name of + Cherokee Bob came our way and stopped awhile. He announced + himself a foot racer, and a contest was soon arranged with + Soda Bill of Nevada City, and each went into a course of + training at his own camp. Bob found some way to get the best + time that Bill could make, and comparing it with his own, said + he could beat in that race. So when it came off our boys + gathered up their money, and loaded down the stage, inside and + out, departing with swinging hats and flying colors, and + screaming in wild delight at the sure prospect of doubling + their dust. In a few days they all came back after the style + of half drowned roosters.<br> + </p> + <p>Bob had 'thrown' the race and skipped with his money before + they could catch him. Had he been found he would have been + urgently hoisted to the first projecting limb, but he was + never seen again. The boys were sad and silent for a day or + two, but a look of cheerful resignation soon came upon their + faces as they handled pick and shovel, and the world rolled on + as before.<br> + </p> + <p>One fall we had a county election, and among the candidates + for office was our townsman, H.M. Moore, from whom Moore's + Flat secured its name. He was the Democratic nominee for + County Judge, and on the other side was David Belden, he whom + Santa Clara County felt proud to honor as its Superior Judge, + and when death claimed him, never was man more sincerely + mourned by every citizen.<br> + </p> + <p>The votes were counted, and Belden was one ahead. Moore + claimed another count, and this time a mistake was discovered + in the former count, but unfortunately it gave Belden a larger + majority than before, and his adversary was forced to abandon + the political fight.<br> + </p> + <p>In the fifties I traveled from the North Yuba River to San + Bernardino on different roads, and made many acquaintances and + friends. I can truly say that I found many of these early + comers who were the most noble men and women of the earth. + They were brave else they had never taken the journey through + unknown deserts, and through lands where wild Indians had + their homes. They were just and true to friends, and to real + enemies, terribly bitter and uncompromising. Money was + borrowed and loaned without a note or written obligation, and + there was no mention made of statute laws as a rule of action. + When a real murderer or horsethief was caught no lawyers were + needed nor employed, but if the community was satisfied as to + the guilt and identity of the prisoner, the punishment was + speedily meted out, and the nearest tree was soon ornamented + (?) with his swinging carcass.<br> + </p> + <p>Many of these worthy men broke the trail on the rough way + that led to the Pacific Coast, drove away all dangers, and + made it safer for those who dared not at first risk life and + fortune in the journey, but, encouraged by the success of the + earliest pioneers, ventured later on the eventful trip to the + new gold fields. I cannot praise these noble men too much; + they deserve all I can say, and much more, too; and if a word + I can say shall teach our new citizens to regard with reverent + respect the early pioneers who laid the foundations of the + glory, prosperity and beauty of the California of to-day, I + shall have done all I hope to, and the historian of another + half century may do them justice, and give to them their full + need of praise.<br> + </p> + <p>As long as I have lived in California I have never carried + a weapon of defense, and never could see much danger. I tried + to follow the right trail so as to shun bad men, and never + found much difficulty in doing so. We hear much of the + Vigilance Committee of early days. It was an actual necessity + of former times. The gold fields not only attracted the good + and brave, but also the worst and most lawless desperadoes of + the world at large. England's banished convicts came here from + the penal colonies of Australia and Van Diemen's Land. They + had wonderful ideas of freedom. In their own land the stern + laws and numerous constabulary had not been able to keep them + from crime. A colony of criminals did not improve in moral + tone, and when the most reckless and daring of all these were + turned loose in a country like California, where the machinery + of laws and officers to execute them was not yet in order, + these lawless "Sidney Ducks," as they were called, + felt free to rob and murder, and human life or blood was not + allowed to stand between them and their desires. Others of the + same general stripe came from Mexico and Chili, and Texas and + Western Missouri furnished another class almost as bad.<br> + </p> + <p>The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco was composed of + the best men in the world. They endured all that was heaped + upon them by these lawless men, and the law of self protection + forced them to organize for the swift apprehension and + punishment of crime, and the preservation of their property + and lives. No one was punished unjustly, but there was no + delay, and the evil-doer met his fate swiftly and surely. + Justice was strict, and the circumstances were generally + unfavorable to thoughts of mercy. I was in San Francisco the + day after Casey and Cory were hung by the Vigilance Committee. + Things looked quite military. Fort Gunny-bags seemed well + protected, and no innocent man in any danger. I was then a + customer of G.W. Badger and Lindenberger, clothiers, and was + present one day in their store when some of the clerks came in + from general duty, and their comrades shouldered the same guns + and took their places on guard. The Committee was so truly + vigilant that these fire-bugs, robbers and cut-throats had to + hide for safety.<br> + </p> + <p>Those who came early to this coast were, mostly, brave, + venturesome, enduring fellows, who felt they could outlive any + hardship and overcome all difficulties; they were of no + ordinary type of character or habits. They thought they saw + success before them, and were determined to win it at almost + any cost. They had pictured in their minds the size of the + "pile" that would satisfy them, and brought their + buckskin bags with them, in various sizes, to hold the snug + sum they hoped to win in the wonderful gold fields of the then + unknown California.<br> + </p> + <p>These California pioneers were restless fellows, but those + who came by the overland trail were not without education and + refinement; they were, indeed, many of them, the very cream of + Americans. The new scenes and associations, the escape from + the influence of home and friends, of wife and children, led + some off the dim track, and their restlessness could not well + be put down. Reasonable men could not expect all persons under + these circumstances to be models of virtue. Then the Missouri + River seemed to be the western boundary of all civilization, + and as these gold hunters launched out on the almost trackless + prairies that lay westward of that mighty stream, many + considered themselves as entering a country of peculiar + freedom, and it was often said that "Law and morality + never crossed the Missouri River." Passing this great + stream was like the crossing of the Rubicon in earlier + history, a step that could not be retraced, a launching to + victory or death. Under this state of feeling many showed the + cloven foot, and tried to make trouble, but in any emergency + good and honest men seemed always in the majority, and those + who had thoughts or desires of evil were compelled to submit + to honorable and just conclusions.<br> + </p> + <p>There were some strange developments of character among + these travelers. Some who had in long attendance at school and + church, listened all their lives to teachings of morality and + justice, and at home seemed to be fairly wedded to ideas of + even rights between man and man, seemed to experience a change + of character as they neared the Pacific Coast. Amiable + dispositions became soured, moral ideas sadly blunted, and + their whole make-up seemed changed, while others who at home + seemed to be of rougher mould, developed principles of justice + and humanity, affection almost unbounded, and were true men in + every trial and in all places. A majority of all were thus + fair-minded and true.<br> + </p> + <p>Men from every state from New Hampshire to Texas gathered + on the banks of the Missouri to set out together across the + plains. These men reared in different climates, amid different + ways and customs, taught by different teachers in schools of + religion and politics, made up a strange mass when thus thrown + together; but the good and true came to the surface, and the + turbulent and bad were always in a hopeless minority. Laws + seemed to grow out of the very circumstances, and though not + in print, flagrant violations would be surely punished.<br> + </p> + <p>Some left civilization with all the luxuries money could + buy—fine, well-equipped trains of their own, and riding + a fat and prancing steed, which they guided with gloved hands, + and seemed to think that water and grass and pleasant camping + places would always be found wherever they wished to stop for + rest, and that the great El Dorado would be a grand pleasure + excursion, ending in a pile of gold large enough to fill their + big leather purse. But the sleek, fat horse grew poor; the + gloves with embroidered gauntlet wrists were cast aside; the + trains grew small, and the luxuries vanished, and perhaps the + plucky owner made the last few hundred miles on foot, with + blistered soles and scanty pack, almost alone. Many of these + gay trains never reached California, and many a pioneer who + started with high hopes died upon the way, some rudely buried, + some left where they fell upon the sands or rocks.<br> + </p> + <p>Those who got through found a splendid climate and + promising prospects before them of filling empty stomachs and + empty pockets, and were soon searching eagerly for yellow + treasure. When fortunate they recovered rapidly their + exhausted bodies to health and strength, and gained new energy + as they saw prosperity.<br> + </p> + <p>Prospectors wandered through the mountains in search of new + and suitable gold diggings, and when they came to a miner's + cabin the door was always open, and whether the owner was + present or absent they could go in, and if hungry, help + themselves to anything they found in shape of food, and go + away again without fear of offense, for under such + circumstances the unwritten law said that grub was free.<br> + </p> + <p>By the same unwritten law, stealing and robbery, as well as + murder, were capital offences, and lawless characters were put + down. Favors were freely granted, and written obligations were + never asked or given, and business was governed by the rules + of strictest honor. The great majority of these pioneers were + the bone and sinew of the nation, and possessed a fair share + of the brains. In a personal experience with them extending + from early days to the present time I have found them always + just and honorable, and I regret that it is not within my + ability to give the praise they deserve. When a stranger and + hungry I was never turned away without food, and my + entertainment was free, and given without thought of + compensation or reward.<br> + </p> + <p>In the chambers of my mind are stored up the most pleasant + recollections of these noble men whose good deeds in days gone + by have earned for them the right to a crown of glory of + greatest splendor.<br> + </p> + <p>These noble souls who came here 40 years ago are fast + passing away across the Mystic River, and those who trod on + foot the hot and dusty trail are giving way to those who come + in swiftly rolling palace cars, and who hardly seem to give a + thought to the difference between then and now. Those who came + early cleared the way and started the great stream of gold + that has made America one of the richest nations of the + world.<br> + </p> + <p>I have a suggestion to make to the descendants of these + noble pioneers, that to perpetuate the memory of their + fathers, and do reverence to their good and noble deeds in the + early history of this grand State, there should be erected + upon the highest mountain top a memorial building wherein may + be inscribed the names and histories of the brave pioneers, so + they may never be blotted out.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + <p>THE JAYHAWKERS.<br> + </p> + </div> + <p>The most perfect organization of the pioneers who + participated more or less in the scenes depicted in this + volume, is that of the Jayhawkers, and, strange to say, this + organization is in the East, and has its annual meetings + there, although the living members are about equally divided + between the East and the Pacific Coast. As related elsewhere, + February 4th is the day of the annual meeting, for on that day + they reached the Santa Clara Valley.<br> + </p> + <p>It is greatly regretted that a more direct and complete + account of the Death Valley experience of the Jayhawkers could + not have been obtained for this work. To be sure it was from + the lips of a living witness told in many conversations, but + no doubt many striking incidents were left out. It is, + however, a settled thing that these, and other individuals + with whom he was immediately connected, were more intimately + connected with the horrors of the sunken valley which was + given its name by them, than were any other persons who ever + crossed that desert region.<br> + </p> + <p>It will be considered that this was the most favorable time + of year possible, and that during the spring or summer not one + would have lived to tell the tale.<br> + </p> + <p>The Author, to his best, has done his duty to all, and + concludes with the hope that this mite may authenticate one of + the saddest chapters in the history of the Golden State.<br> + </p> + <br> + <div align=center> + <p>CONCLUSION.<br> + </p> + </div> + <p>This story is not meant to be sensational, but a plain, + unvarnished tale of truth—some parts hard and very sad. + It is a narrative of my personal experience, and being in no + sense a literary man or making any pretense as a writer, I + hope the errors may be overlooked, for it has been to me a + difficult story to tell, arousing as it did sad recollections + of the past. I have told it in the plainest, briefest way, + with nothing exaggerated or overdone. Those who traveled over + the same or similar routes are capable of passing a just + opinion of the story.<br> + </p> + <p>Looking back over more than 40 years, I was then a great + lover of liberty, as well as health and happiness, and I + possessed a great desire to see a new country never yet trod + by civilized man, so that I easily caught the gold fever of + 1849, and naught but a trip to that land of fabled wealth + could cure me.<br> + </p> + <p>Geography has wonderfully changed since then. Where Omaha + now stands there was not a house in 1849. Six hundred miles of + treeless prairie without a house brought us to the adobe + dwellings at Fort Laramie, and 400, more or less, were the + long miles to Mormondom, still more than 700 miles from the + Pacific Coast. Passing over this wilderness was like going to + sea without a compass.<br> + </p> + <p>Hence it will be seen that when we crossed a stream that + was said to flow to the Pacific Ocean, myself and comrades + were ready to adopt floating down its current as an easier + road than the heated trail, and for three weeks, over rocks + and rapids, we floated and tumbled down the deep cañon + of Green River till we emerged into an open plain and were + compelled to come on shore by the Indians there encamped. We + had believed the Indians to be a war-like and cruel people, + but when we made them understand where we wanted to go, they + warned us of the great impassable Colorado Cañon only + two days ahead of us, and pointed out the road to + "Mormonie" with their advice to take it. This was + Chief Walker, a good, well meaning red man, and to him we owed + our lives.<br> + </p> + <p>Out of this trouble we were once again on the safe road + from Salt Lake to Los Angeles, and again made error in taking + a cutoff route, and striking across a trackless country + because it seemed to promise a shorter distance, and where + thirteen of our party lie unburied on the sands of the + terribly dry valley. Those who lived were saved by the little + puddles of rain water that had fallen from the small rain + clouds that had been forced over the great Sierra Nevada + Mountains in one of the wettest winters ever known. In an + ordinary year we should have all died of thirst, so that we + were lucky in our misfortune.<br> + </p> + <p>When we came out to the fertile coast near Los Angeles, we + found good friends in the native Californians who, like good + Samaritans, gave us food and took us in, poor, nearly starved + creatures that we were, without money or property from which + they could expect to be rewarded. Their deeds stand out whiter + in our memories than all the rest, notwithstanding their skins + were dark. It seems to me such people do not live in this age + of the world which we are pleased to call advanced. I was much + with these old Californians, and found them honest and + truthful, willing to divide the last bit of food with a needy + stranger or a friend. Their good deeds have never been praised + enough, and I feel it in my heart to do them ample justice + while I live.<br> + </p> + <p>The work that was laid out for me to do, to tell when and + where I went, is done. Perhaps in days to come it may be of + even more interest than now, and I shall be glad I have turned + over the scenes in my memory and recorded them, and on some + rolling stone you may inscribe the name of WILLIAM LEWIS + MANLEY, born near St. Albans, Vermont, April 20th, 1820, who + went to Michigan while yet it was a territory, as an early + pioneer; then onward to Wisconsin before it became a state, + and for twelve long, weary months traveled across the wild + western prairies, the lofty mountains and sunken deserts of + Death Valley, to this land which is now so pleasant and so + fair, wherein, after over 40 years of earnest toil, I rest in + the midst of family and friends, and can truly say I am + content.</p> + <div align=center> + THE END.</div> + <br> + <div align=center> + <img height=386 alt="" src="images/ch_17.png" width=314 + border=0></div> + + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12236 ***</div> +</body> + +</html> diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_01.png b/12236-h/images/ch_01.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5783180 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_01.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_03.png b/12236-h/images/ch_03.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f3efff --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_03.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_04.png b/12236-h/images/ch_04.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8ec764 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_04.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_05.png b/12236-h/images/ch_05.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc6e378 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_05.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_06.png b/12236-h/images/ch_06.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d291aa --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_06.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_07.png b/12236-h/images/ch_07.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..131e967 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_07.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_08.png b/12236-h/images/ch_08.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f6b6ed --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_08.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_10.png b/12236-h/images/ch_10.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d513008 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_10.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_11.png b/12236-h/images/ch_11.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f2d9619 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_11.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_12.png b/12236-h/images/ch_12.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d9ec54b --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_12.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_14.png b/12236-h/images/ch_14.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c21daa1 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_14.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_16.png b/12236-h/images/ch_16.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef79bc1 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_16.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/ch_17.png b/12236-h/images/ch_17.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4b46d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/ch_17.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/cover.jpg b/12236-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..57df375 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/12236-h/images/frisky_oxen.png b/12236-h/images/frisky_oxen.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51e63b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/frisky_oxen.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/frontispiece.png b/12236-h/images/frontispiece.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..58e4f62 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/frontispiece.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/leaving_dv.png b/12236-h/images/leaving_dv.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..17836d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/leaving_dv.png diff --git a/12236-h/images/pulling_oxen.png b/12236-h/images/pulling_oxen.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1637c1a --- /dev/null +++ b/12236-h/images/pulling_oxen.png |
