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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:39:18 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:39:18 -0700 |
| commit | 364d9c4e09ab4051508ede240beac8bd6d57a31e (patch) | |
| tree | 1fb3195878a2da16726e9c64b998a43064be3836 /12225-h | |
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diff --git a/12225-h/12225-h.htm b/12225-h/12225-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d184f9f --- /dev/null +++ b/12225-h/12225-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,14526 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> + +<html> +<head> + <meta name="generator" content= + "HTML Tidy for Windows (vers 1st February 2004), see www.w3.org"> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= + "text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + <meta content="pg2html (binary version 0.15)" name="generator"> + + <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Tales of Lonely Trails, by + Zane Grey</title> + <style type="text/css"> + <!-- + body { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; } + p { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + font-size: 100%; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { text-align: center; } + hr { width: 50%; } + hr.full { width: 100%; } + .poem { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left; } + .poem .stanza { margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; } + .poem p { margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } + .poem p.i2 { margin-left: 1em; } + .poem p.i4 { margin-left: 2em; } + .poem p.i6 { margin-left: 3em; } + .poem p.i8 { margin-left: 4em; } + .poem p.i10 { margin-left: 5em; } + .toc { margin-left: 15%; font-size: 80%; margin-bottom: 0em;} + CENTER { padding: 0.8em;} + // --> + </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12225 ***</div> + + <div style="height: 8em;"></div><a name="2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>TALES OF LONELY TRAILS</h2> + + <center> + <b>BY ZANE GREY</b> + </center> + + <center> + 1922 + </center><a name="image-0001"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zgfront_m.jpg" width="448" height="720" alt= + "Zane Grey "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <hr> + + <h2>Contents</h2> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0001">CHAPTER I</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0002">CHAPTER II</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0003">CHAPTER III</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0004">CHAPTER IV</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0005">CHAPTER V</a></p> + <hr> + + <h2>List of Illustrations</h2> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0001">Zane Grey</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0002">Z.G. After Two Months in the + Wilds</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0003">There Was Something Beyond + the White-peaked Ranges</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0004">Weird and Wonderful + Monuments in Monument Valley</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0005">Sunset on the Desert</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0006">Cave of the Cliff + Dwellers</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0007">This Immense Cave Would Hold + Trinity Church. In It Lies The Ruined Cliff Dwelling Called + Betatakin</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0008">The Wind-worn Treacherous + Slopes on the Way To Nonnezoshe</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0009">First Sight of the Great + Natural Bridge</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0010">Nonnezoshe</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0011">Pack Horses on a Sage Slope + in Colorado</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0012">The Grassy Uplands, With + Whiteley's Peak in The Distance</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0013">A Spruce-shaded, + Flower-skirted Lake</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0014">Looking Down Upon + Cloud-filled Valleys</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0015">Searching Burned-over Ranges + for Game</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0016">A Hunter's Cabin on a Frosty + Morning</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0017">The Troublesome Country, + Noted for Grizzly Bears</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0018">Under the Shadow of The + Flattop Mountains</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0019">White Aspen Tree, Showing + Marks of Bear Claws</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0020">A Black Bear Treed</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0021">Crossing the Colorado River + at The Bottom of The Grand Canyon</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0022">Where Rolls the + Colorado</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0023">Down the Shinumo Trail of + The North River</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0024">Camp at the Saddle</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0025">Buckskin Forest</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0026">Buffalo Jones With Sounder + and Ranger</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0027">Jones About to Lasso a + Mountain Lion</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0028">Remains of a Deer Killed by + Lions</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0029">A Lion Tied</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0030">Fighting Weetahs (buffalo + Bulls) on Buffalo Jones's Desert Ranch</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0031">Treed Lion</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0032">Treed Lion</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0033">Treed Lion</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0034">Hiding</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0035">A Drink of Cold Granite + Water Under the Rim</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0036">Which is the Piute?</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0037">Wild Horses Drinking on a + Promontory in the Grand Canyon</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0038">Jones and Emett Packing Lion + on Horse</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0039">Jones Climbing up to Lasso + Lion</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0040">Two Lions in One + Tree</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0041">Jones, Emett, and the Navajo + With The Lions</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0042">Billy in Camp</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0043">Lion Licking + Snowball</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0044">Some of Our Menagerie in + Buckskin Forest</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0045">White Mustang Stallion With + his Bunch of Blacks In Snake Gulch</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0046">On the Way Home</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0047">Riding With a Navajo</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0048">The Author and his Men. From + Left to Right: Edd Haught; Nielsen; Haught, the Bear Hunter; Al + Doyle, Pioneer Arizona Guide; Lewis Pyle; Z.G.; George Haught; + Ben Copple; Lee Doyle.</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0049">Romer-boy on his Favorite + Steed</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0050">The Tonto Basin</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0051">Listening for the + Hounds</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0052">Zane Grey on Don + Carlos</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0053">Wild Turkey</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0054">Wild Turkeys</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0055">The White Quaking + Asps</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0056">Skunk, a Frequent and Rather + Dangerous Visitor in Camp</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0057">On the Rim</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0058">Where Elk, Deer, and Turkey + Drink</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0059">Where Bear Cross the Ridge + from One Canyon to Another</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0060">Climbing over the Tough + Manzanita</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0061">Bear in Sight Across + Canyon</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0062">Z.G.'s Cinnamon Bear</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0063">R.C.'s Big Brown + Bear</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0064">Another Bear</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0065">Meat in Camp</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0067">Burros Packed for the + Trail</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0068">The Deadly Cholla, Most + Poisonous and Pain Inflicting Of The Cactus</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0069">The Colored Calico + Mountains</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0070">Down the Long Winding Wash + to Death Valley</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0071">Desolation and Decay. + Looking Down over the Denuded Ridges to the Stark Valley of + Death</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0072">Desert Graves</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0073">The Ghastly Sweep of Death + Valley</a></p> + + <p class="toc"><a href="#image-0074">In the Center of The + Salt-incrusted Floor Of Death Valley, Three Hundred Feet Below + Sea Level</a></p> + <hr> + <a name="2H_4_0002"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>TALES OF LONELY TRAILS</h2><a name="2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + + <center> + NONNEZOSHE + </center> + + <p>John Wetherill, one of the famous Wetherill brothers and + trader at Kayenta, Arizona, is the man who discovered Nonnezoshe, + which is probably the most beautiful and wonderful natural + phenomenon in the world. Wetherill owes the credit to his wife, + who, through her influence with the Indians finally after years + succeeded in getting the secret of the great bridge.</p> + + <p>After three trips to Marsh Pass and Kayenta with my old guide, + Al Doyle of Flagstaff, I finally succeeded in getting Wetherill + to take me in to Nonnezoshe. This was in the spring of 1913 and + my party was the second one, not scientific, to make the trip. + Later this same year Wetherill took in the Roosevelt party and + after that the Kolb brothers. It is a safe thing to say that this + trip is one of the most beautiful in the West. It is a hard one + and not for everybody. There is no guide except Wetherill, who + knows how to get there. And after Doyle and I came out we + admitted that we would not care to try to return over our back + trail. We doubted if we could find the way. This is the only + place I have ever visited which I am not sure I could find again + alone.</p> + + <p>My trip to Nonnezoshe gave me the opportunity to see also + Monument Valley, and the mysterious and labyrinthine Canyon Segi + with its great prehistoric cliff-dwellings.</p> + + <p>The desert beyond Kayenta spread out impressively, bare red + flats and plains of sage leading to the rugged vividly-colored + and wind-sculptured sandstone heights typical of the Painted + Desert of Arizona. Laguna Creek, at that season, became flooded + after every thunderstorm; and it was a treacherous red-mired + quicksand where I convinced myself we would have stuck forever + had it not been for Wetherill's Navajos.</p> + + <p>We rode all day, for the most part closed in by ridges and + bluffs, so that no extended view was possible. It was hot, too, + and the sand blew and the dust rose. Travel in northern Arizona + is never easy, and this grew harder and steeper. There was one + long slope of heavy sand that I made sure would prove too much + for Wetherill's pack mules. But they surmounted it apparently + less breathless than I was. Toward sunset a storm gathered ahead + of us to the north with a promise of cooling and sultry air.</p> + + <p>At length we turned into a long canyon with straight rugged + red walls, and a sandy floor with quite a perceptible ascent. It + appeared endless. Far ahead I could see the black storm-clouds; + and by and bye began to hear the rumble of thunder. Darkness had + overtaken us by the time we had reached the head of this canyon; + and my first sight of Monument Valley came with a dazzling flash + of lightning. It revealed a vast valley, a strange world of + colossal shafts and buttes of rock, magnificently sculptored, + standing isolated and aloof, dark, weird, lonely. When the sheet + lightning flared across the sky showing the monuments silhouetted + black against that strange horizon the effect was marvelously + beautiful. I watched until the storm died away.</p><a name= + "image-0002"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg001_m.jpg" width="448" height="703" alt= + "Z. G. After Two Months in the Wilds "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Dawn, with the desert sunrise, changed Monument Valley, bereft + it of its night gloom and weird shadow, and showed it in another + aspect of beauty. It was hard for me to realize that those + monuments were not the works of man. The great valley must once + have been a plateau of red rock from which the softer strata had + eroded, leaving the gentle league-long slopes marked here and + there by upstanding pillars and columns of singular shape and + beauty. I rode down the sweet-scented sage-slopes under the + shadow of the lofty Mittens, and around and across the valley, + and back again to the height of land. And when I had completed + the ride a story had woven itself into my mind; and the spot + where I stood was to be the place where Lin Slone taught Lucy + Bostil to ride the great stallion Wildfire.</p><a name= + "image-0003"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg002_m.jpg" width="448" height="717" alt= + "There Was Something Beyond the White-peaked Ranges "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Two days' ride took us across country to the Segi. With this + wonderful canyon I was familiar, that is, as familiar as several + visits could make a man with such a bewildering place. In fact I + had named it Deception Pass. The Segi had innumerable branches, + all more or less the same size, and sometimes it was difficult to + tell the main canyon from one of its tributaries. The walls were + rugged and crumbling, of a red or yellow hue, upward of a + thousand feet in height, and indented by spruce-sided + notches.</p> + + <p>There were a number of ruined cliff-dwellings, the most + accessible of which was Keet Seel. I could imagine no more + picturesque spot. A huge wind-worn cavern with a vast slanted + stained wall held upon a projecting ledge or shelf the long line + of cliff-dwellings. These silent little stone houses with their + vacant black eye-like windows had strange power to make me + ponder, and then dream.</p> + + <p>Next day, upon resuming our journey, it pleased me to try to + find the trail to Betatakin, the most noted, and surely the most + wonderful and beautiful ruin in all the West. In many places + there was no trail at all, and I encountered difficulties, but in + the end without much loss of time I entered the narrow rugged + entrance of the canyon I had named Surprise Valley. Sight of the + great dark cave thrilled me as I thought it might have thrilled + Bess and Venters, who had lived for me their imagined lives of + loneliness here in this wild spot. With the sight of those lofty + walls and the scent of the dry sweet sage there rushed over me a + strange feeling that "Riders of the Purple Sage" was true. My + dream people of romance had really lived there once upon a time. + I climbed high upon the huge stones, and along the smooth red + walls where Pay Larkin once had glided with swift sure steps, and + I entered the musty cliff-dwellings, and called out to hear the + weird and sonorous echoes, and I wandered through the thickets + and upon the grassy spruce-shaded benches, never for a moment + free of the story I had conceived there. Something of awe and + sadness abided with me. I could not enter into the merry pranks + and investigations of my party. Surprise Valley seemed a part of + my past, my dreams, my very self. I left it, haunted by its + loneliness and silence and beauty, by the story it had given + me.</p> + + <p>That night we camped at Bubbling Spring, which once had been a + geyser of considerable power. Wetherill told a story of an old + Navajo who had lived there. For a long time, according to the + Indian tale, the old chief resided there without complaining of + this geyser that was wont to inundate his fields. But one season + the unreliable waterspout made great and persistent endeavor to + drown him and his people and horses. Whereupon the old Navajo + took his gun and shot repeatedly at the geyser, and thundered + aloud his anger to the Great Spirit. The geyser ebbed away, and + from that day never burst forth again.</p><a name="image-0004"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg003a_m.jpg" width="448" height="335" alt= + "Weird and Wonderful Monuments in Monument Valley "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0005"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg003b_m.jpg" width="448" height="332" alt= + "Sunset on the Desert "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0006"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg004_m.jpg" width="751" height="448" alt= + "Cave of the Cliff Dwellers "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Somewhere under the great bulge of Navajo Mountain I + calculated that we were coming to the edge of the plateau. The + white bobbing pack-horses disappeared and then our extra + mustangs. It is no unusual thing for a man to use three mounts on + this trip. Then two of our Indians disappeared. But Wetherill + waited for us and so did Nas ta Bega, the Piute who first took + Wetherill down into Nonnezoshe Boco. As I came up I thought we + had indeed reached the end of the world.</p> + + <p>"It's down in there," said Wetherill, with a laugh.</p> + + <p>Nas ta Bega made a slow sweeping gesture. There is always + something so significant and impressive about an Indian when he + points anywhere. It is as if he says, "There, way beyond, over + the ranges, is a place I know, and it is far." The fact was that + I looked at the Piute's dark, inscrutable face before I looked + out into the void.</p> + + <p>My gaze then seemed impelled and held by things afar, a vast + yellow and purple corrugated world of distance, apparently now on + a level with my eyes. I was drawn by the beauty and grandeur of + that scene; and then I was transfixed, almost by fear, by the + realization that I dared to venture down into this wild and + upflung fastness. I kept looking afar, sweeping the three-quarter + circle of horizon till my judgment of distance was confounded and + my sense of proportion dwarfed one moment and magnified the + next.</p> + + <p>Wetherill was pointing and explaining, but I had not grasped + all he said.</p> + + <p>"You can see two hundred miles into Utah," he went on. "That + bright rough surface, like a washboard, is wind-worn rock. Those + little lines of cleavage are canyons. There are a thousand + canyons down there, and only a few have we been in. That long + purple ragged line is the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. And + there, that blue fork in the red, that's where the San Juan comes + in. And there's Escalante Canyon."</p> + + <p>I had to adopt the Indian's method of studying unlimited + spaces in the desert—to look with slow contracted eyes from + near to far.</p> + + <p>The pack-train and the drivers had begun to zigzag down a long + slope, bare of rock, with scant strips of green, and here and + there a cedar. Half a mile down, the slope merged in what seemed + a green level. But I knew it was not level. This level was a + rolling plain, growing darker green, with lines of ravines and + thin, undefined spaces that might be mirage. Miles and miles it + swept and rolled and heaved, to lose its waves in apparent darker + level. Round red rocks stood isolated. They resembled huge + grazing cattle. But as I gazed these rocks were strangely + magnified. They grew and grew into mounds, castles, domes, crags, + great red wind-carved buttes. One by one they drew my gaze to the + wall of upflung rock. I seemed to see a thousand domes of a + thousand shapes and colors, and among them a thousand blue + clefts, each of which was a canyon.</p> + + <p>Beyond this wide area of curved lines rose another wall, + dwarfing the lower; dark red, horizon-long, magnificent in + frowning boldness, and because of its limitless deceiving + surfaces incomprehensible to the gaze of man. Away to the + eastward began a winding ragged blue line, looping back upon + itself, and then winding away again, growing wider and bluer. + This line was San Juan Canyon. I followed that blue line all its + length, a hundred miles, down toward the west where it joined a + dark purple shadowy cleft. And this was the Grand Canyon of the + Colorado. My eye swept along with that winding mark, farther and + farther to the west, until the cleft, growing larger and closer, + revealed itself as a wild and winding canyon. Still farther + westward it split a vast plateau of red peaks and yellow mesas. + Here the canyon was full of purple smoke. It turned, it closed, + it gaped, it lost itself and showed again in that chaos of a + million cliffs. And then it faded, a mere purple line, into + deceiving distance.</p> + + <p>I imagined there was no scene in all the world to equal this. + The tranquillity of lesser spaces was here not manifest. This + happened to be a place where so much of the desert could be seen + and the effect was stupendous Sound, movement, life seemed to + have no fitness here. Ruin was there and desolation and decay. + The meaning of the ages was flung at me. A man became nothing. + But when I gazed across that sublime and majestic wilderness, in + which the Grand Canyon was only a dim line, I strangely lost my + terror and something came to me across the shining spaces.</p> + + <p>Then Nas ta Bega and Wetherill began the descent of the slope, + and the rest of us followed. No sign of a trail showed where the + base of the slope rolled out to meet the green plain. There was a + level bench a mile wide, then a ravine, and then an ascent, and + after that, rounded ridge and ravine, one after the other, like + huge swells of a monstrous sea. Indian paint brush vied in its + scarlet hue with the deep magenta of cactus. There was no sage. + Soap weed and meager grass and a bunch of cactus here and there + lent the green to that barren, and it was green only at a + distance.</p> + + <p>Nas ta Bega kept on at a steady gait. The sun climbed. The + wind rose and whipped dust from under the mustangs. There is + seldom much talk on a ride of this nature. It is hard work and + everybody for himself. Besides, it is enough just to see; and + that country is conducive to silence. I looked back often, and + the farther out on the plain we rode the higher loomed the + plateau we had descended; and as I faced ahead again, the lower + sank the red-domed and castled horizon to the fore.</p> + + <p>It was a wild place we were approaching. I saw piñon + patches under the circled walls. I ceased to feel the dry wind in + my face. We were already in the lee of a wall. I saw the rock + squirrels scampering to their holes. Then the Indians disappeared + between two rounded corners of cliff.</p> + + <p>I rode round the corner into a widening space thick with + cedars. It ended in a bare slope of smooth rock. Here we + dismounted to begin the ascent. It was smooth and hard, though + not slippery. There was not a crack. I did not see a broken piece + of stone. Nas ta Bega and Wetherill climbed straight up for a + while and then wound round a swell, to turn this way and that, + always going up. I began to see similar mounds of rock all around + me, of every shape that could be called a curve. There were + yellow domes far above and small red domes far below. Ridges ran + from one hill of rock to another. There were no abrupt breaks, + but holes and pits and caves were everywhere, and occasionally + deep down, an amphitheater green with cedar and piñon. We + found no vestige of trail on those bare slopes.</p> + + <p>Our guides led to the top of the wall, only to disclose to us + another wall beyond, with a ridged, bare, and scalloped + depression between. Here footing began to be precarious for both + man and beast. Our mustangs were not shod and it was wonderful to + see their slow, short, careful steps. They knew a great deal + better than we what the danger was. It has been such experiences + as this that have made me see in horses something besides beasts + of burden. In the ascent of the second slope it was necessary to + zigzag up, slowly and carefully, taking advantage of every bulge + and depression.</p> + + <p>Then before us twisted and dropped and curved the most + dangerous slopes I had ever seen. We had reached the height of + the divide and many of the drops on this side were perpendicular + and too steep for us to see the bottom.</p><a name="image-0007"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg005_m.jpg" width="448" height="716" alt= + "This Immense Cave Would Hold Trinity Church. In It Lies The Ruined Cliff Dwelling Called Betatakin "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>At one bad place Wetherill and Nas ta Bega, with Joe Lee, a + Mormon cowboy with us, were helping one of the pack-horses named + Chub. On the steepest part of this slope Chub fell and began to + slide. His momentum jerked the rope from the hands of Wetherill + and the Indian. But Joe Lee held on. Joe was a giant and being a + Mormon he could not let go of anything he had. He began to slide + with the horse, holding back with all his might.</p><a name= + "image-0008"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg006_m.jpg" width="772" height="448" alt= + "The Wind-worn Treacherous Slopes on the Way To Nonnezoshe "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>It seemed that both man and beast must slide down to where the + slope ended in a yawning precipice. Chub was snorting or + screaming in terror. Our mustangs were frightened and rearing. It + was not a place to have trouble with horses.</p> + + <p>I had a moment of horrified fascination, in which Chub turned + clear over. Then he slid into a little depression that, with + Joe's hold on the lasso, momentarily checked his descent. Quick + as thought Joe ran sidewise and down to the bulge of rock, and + yelled for help. I got to him a little ahead of Wetherill and Nas + ta Bega; and together we pulled Chub up out of danger. At first + we thought he had been choked to death. But he came to, and got + up, a bloody, skinned horse, but alive and safe. I have never + seen a more magnificent effort than Joe Lee's. Those fellows are + built that way. Wetherill has lost horses on those treacherous + slopes, and that risk is the only thing about the trip which is + not splendid.</p> + + <p>We got over that bad place without further incident, and + presently came to a long swell of naked stone that led down to a + narrow green split. This one had straight walls and wound away + out of sight. It was the head of a canyon.</p> + + <p>"Nonnezoshe Boco," said the Indian.</p> + + <p>This then was the Canyon of the Rainbow Bridge. When we got + down into it we were a happy crowd. The mode of travel here was a + selection of the best levels, the best places to cross the brook, + the best places to climb, and it was a process of continual + repetition. There was no trail ahead of us, but we certainly left + one behind. And as Wetherill picked out the course and the + mustangs followed him I had all freedom to see and feel the + beauty, color, wildness and changing character of Nonnezoshe + Boco.</p> + + <p>My experiences in the desert did not count much in the trip + down this strange, beautiful lost canyon. All canyons are not + alike. This one did not widen, though the walls grew higher. They + began to lean and bulge, and the narrow strip of sky above + resembled a flowing blue river. Huge caverns had been hollowed + out by water or wind. And when the brook ran close under one of + these overhanging places the running water made a singular + indescribable sound. A crack from a hoof on a stone rang like a + hollow bell and echoed from wall to wall. And the croak of a + frog—the only living creature I noted in the + canyon—was a weird and melancholy thing.</p> + + <p>"We're sure gettin' deep down," said Joe Lee.</p> + + <p>"How do you know?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Here are the pink and yellow sego lilies. Only the white ones + are found above."</p> + + <p>I dismounted to gather some of these lilies. They were larger + than the white ones of higher altitudes, of a most exquisite + beauty and fragility, and of such rare pink and yellow hues as I + had never seen.</p> + + <p>"They bloom only where it's always summer," explained Joe.</p> + + <p>That expressed their nature. They were the orchids of the + summer canyons. They stood up everywhere star-like out of the + green. It was impossible to prevent the mustangs treading them + under foot. And as the canyon deepened, and many little springs + added their tiny volume to the brook, every grassy bench was + dotted with lilies, like a green sky star-spangled. And this + increasing luxuriance manifested itself in the banks of purple + moss and clumps of lavender daisies and great mounds of yellow + violets. The brook was lined by blossoming buck-brush; the rocky + corners showed the crimson and magenta of cactus; and there were + ledges of green with shining moss that sparkled with little white + flowers. The hum of bees filled the fragrant, dreamy air.</p> + + <p>But by and bye, this green and colorful and verdant beauty, + the almost level floor of the canyon, the banks of soft earth, + the thickets and clumps of cottonwood, the shelving caverns and + bulging walls—these features were gradually lost, and + Nonnezoshe began to deepen in bare red and white stone steps. The + walls sheered away from one another, breaking into sections and + ledges, and rising higher and higher, and there began to be + manifested a dark and solemn concordance with the nature that had + created this old rent in the earth.</p> + + <p>There was a stretch of miles where steep steps in hard red + rock alternated with long levels of round boulders. Here, one by + one, the mustangs went lame and we had to walk. And we slipped + and stumbled along over these loose, treacherous stones. The + hours passed; the toil increased; the progress diminished; one of + the mustangs failed and was left. And all the while the + dimensions of Nonnezoshe Boco magnified and its character + changed. It became a thousand-foot walled canyon, leaning, + broken, threatening, with great yellow slides blocking passage, + with huge sections split off from the main wall, with immense + dark and gloomy caverns. Strangely it had no intersecting + canyons. It jealously guarded its secret. Its unusual formations + of cavern and pillar and half-arch led me to expect any monstrous + stone-shape left by avalanche or cataclysm.</p> + + <p>Down and down we toiled. And now the stream-bed was bare of + boulders and the banks of earth. The floods that had rolled down + that canyon had here borne away every loose thing. All the floor, + in places, was bare red and white stone, polished, glistening, + slippery, affording treacherous foothold. And the time came when + Wetherill abandoned the stream-bed to take to the rock-strewn and + cactus-covered ledges above.</p> + + <p>The canyon widened ahead into a great ragged iron-lined + amphitheater, and then apparently turned abruptly at right + angles. Sunset rimmed the walls.</p> + + <p>I had been tired for a long time and now I began to limp and + lag. I wondered what on earth would make Wetherill and the + Indians tired. It was with great pleasure that I observed the + giant Joe Lee plodding slowly along. And when I glanced behind at + my straggling party it was with both admiration for their + gameness and glee for their disheveled and weary appearance. + Finally I got so that all I could do was to drag myself onward + with eyes down on the rough ground. In this way I kept on until I + heard Wetherill call me. He had stopped—was waiting for me. + The dark and silent Indian stood beside him, looking down the + canyon.</p> + + <p>I saw past the vast jutting wall that had obstructed my view. + A mile beyond, all was bright with the colors of sunset, and + spanning the canyon in the graceful shape and beautiful hues of + the rainbow was a magnificent natural bridge.</p> + + <p>"Nonnezoshe," said Wetherill, simply.</p> + + <p>This rainbow bridge was the one great natural phenomenon, the + one grand spectacle which I had ever seen that did not at first + give vague disappointment, a confounding of reality, a + disenchantment of contrast with what the mind had conceived.</p> + + <p>But this thing was glorious. It absolutely silenced me. My + body and brain, weary and dull from the toil of travel, received + a singular and revivifying freshness. I had a strange, mystic + perception that this rosy-hued, tremendous arch of stone was a + goal I had failed to reach in some former life, but had now + found. Here was a rainbow magnified even beyond dreams, a thing + not transparent and ethereal, but solidified, a work of ages, + sweeping up majestically from the red walls, its iris-hued arch + against the blue sky.</p><a name="image-0009"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg007_m.jpg" width="448" height="676" alt= + "First Sight of the Great Natural Bridge "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0010"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg008_m.jpg" width="756" height="448" alt= + "Nonnezoshe "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Then we plodded on again. Wetherill worked around to circle + the huge amphitheater. The way was a steep slant, rough and loose + and dragging. The rocks were as hard and jagged as lava, and + cactus hindered progress. Soon the rosy and golden lights had + faded. All the walls turned pale and steely and the bridge loomed + dark.</p> + + <p>We were to camp all night under the bridge. Just before we + reached it Nas ta Bega halted with one of his singular motions. + He was saying his prayer to this great stone god. Then he began + to climb straight up the steep slope. Wetherill told me the + Indian would not pass under the arch.</p> + + <p>When we got to the bridge and unsaddled and unpacked the lame + mustangs twilight had fallen. The horses were turned loose to + fare for what scant grass grew on bench and slope. Firewood was + even harder to find than grass. When our simple meal had been + eaten there was gloom gathering in the canyon and stars had begun + to blink in the pale strip of blue above the lofty walls. The + place was oppressive and we were mostly silent.</p> + + <p>Presently I moved away into the strange dark shadow cast by + the bridge. It was a weird black belt, where I imagined I was + invisible, but out of which I could see. There was a slab of rock + upon which I composed myself, to watch, to feel.</p> + + <p>A stiffening of my neck made me aware that I had been + continually looking up at the looming arch. I found that it never + seemed the same any two moments. Near at hand it was too vast a + thing for immediate comprehension. I wanted to ponder on what had + formed it—to reflect upon its meaning as to age and force + of nature. Yet it seemed that all I could do was to see. White + stars hung along the dark curved line. The rim of the arch + appeared to shine. The moon was up there somewhere. The far side + of the canyon was now a blank black wall. Over its towering rim + showed a pale glow. It brightened. The shades in the canyon + lightened, then a white disk of moon peeped over the dark line. + The bridge turned to silver.</p> + + <p>It was then that I became aware of the presence of Nas ta + Bega. Dark, silent, statuesque, with inscrutable face uplifted, + with all that was spiritual of the Indian suggested by a somber + and tranquil knowledge of his place there, he represented to me + that which a solitary figure of human life represents in a great + painting. Nonnezoshe needed life, wild life, life of its millions + of years—and here stood the dark and silent Indian.</p> + + <p>Long afterward I walked there alone, to and fro, under the + bridge. The moon had long since crossed the streak of star-fired + blue above, and the canyon was black in shadow. At times a + current of wind, with all the strangeness of that strange country + in its moan, rushed through the great stone arch. At other times + there was silence such as I imagined might have dwelt deep in the + center of the earth. And again an owl hooted, and the sound was + nameless. It had a mocking echo. An echo of night, silence, + gloom, melancholy, death, age, eternity!</p> + + <p>The Indian lay asleep with his dark face upturned, and the + other sleepers lay calm and white in the starlight. I seemed to + see in them the meaning of life and the past—the + illimitable train of faces that had shone under the stars. There + was something nameless in that canyon, and whether or not it was + what the Indian embodied in the great Nonnezoshe, or the life of + the present, or the death of the ages, or the nature so + magnificently manifested in those silent, dreaming, waiting + walls—the truth was that there was a spirit.</p> + + <p>I did sleep a few hours under Nonnezoshe, and when I awoke the + tip of the arch was losing its cold darkness and beginning to + shine. The sun had just risen high enough over some low break in + the wall to reach the bridge. I watched. Slowly, in wondrous + transformation, the gold and blue and rose and pink and purple + blended their hues, softly, mistily, cloudily, until once more + the arch was a rainbow.</p> + + <p>I realized that long before life had evolved upon the earth + this bridge had spread its grand arch from wall to wall, black + and mystic at night, transparent and rosy in the sunrise, at + sunset a flaming curve limned against the heavens. When the race + of man had passed it would, perhaps, stand there still. It was + not for many eyes to see. The tourist, the leisurely traveler, + the comfort-loving motorist would never behold it. Only by toil, + sweat, endurance and pain could any man ever look at Nonnezoshe. + It seemed well to realize that the great things of life had to be + earned. Nonnezoshe would always be alone, grand, silent, + beautiful, unintelligible; and as such I bade it a mute, reverent + farewell.</p><a name="2HCH0002"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + + <center> + COLORADO TRAILS + </center> + + <p>Riding and tramping trails would lose half their charm if the + motive were only to hunt and to fish. It seems fair to warn the + reader who longs to embark upon a bloody game hunt or a chronicle + of fishing records that this is not that kind of story. But it + will be one for those who love horses and dogs, the long winding + dim trails, the wild flowers and the dark still woods, the + fragrance of spruce and the smell of camp-fire smoke. And as well + for those who love to angle in brown lakes or rushing brooks or + chase after the baying hounds or stalk the stag on his lonely + heights.</p><a name="image-0011"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg009_m.jpg" width="740" height="448" alt= + "Pack Horses on a Sage Slope in Colorado "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We left Denver on August twenty-second over the Moffet road + and had a long wonderful ride through the mountains. The Rockies + have a sweep, a limitless sweep, majestic and grand. For many + miles we crossed no streams, and climbed and wound up barren + slopes. Once across the divide, however, we descended into a + country of black forests and green valleys. Yampa, a little + hamlet with a past prosperity, lay in the wide valley of the Bear + River. It was picturesque but idle, and a better name for it + would have been Sleepy Hollow. The main and only street was very + wide and dusty, bordered by old board walks and vacant stores. It + seemed a deserted street of a deserted village. Teague, the + guide, lived there. He assured me it was not quite as lively a + place as in the early days when it was a stage center for an old + and rich mining section. We stayed there at the one hotel for a + whole day, most of which I spent sitting on the board walk. + Whenever I chanced to look down the wide street it seemed always + the same—deserted. But Yampa had the charm of being old and + forgotten, and for that reason I would like to live there a + while.</p><a name="image-0012"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg010_m.jpg" width="730" height="448" alt= + "The Grassy Uplands, With Whiteley's Peak in The Distance "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>On August twenty-third we started in two buckboards for the + foothills, some fifteen miles westward, where Teague's men were + to meet us with saddle and pack horses. The ride was not + interesting until the Flattop Mountains began to loom, and we saw + the dark green slopes of spruce, rising to bare gray cliffs and + domes, spotted with white banks of snow. I felt the first cool + breath of mountain air, exhilarating and sweet. From that moment + I began to live.</p> + + <p>We had left at six-thirty. Teague, my guide, had been so + rushed with his manifold tasks that I had scarcely seen him, let + alone gotten acquainted with him. And on this ride he was far + behind with our load of baggage. We arrived at the edge of the + foothills about noon. It appeared to be the gateway of a valley, + with aspen groves and ragged jack-pines on the slopes, and a + stream running down. Our driver called it the Stillwater. That + struck me as strange, for the stream was in a great hurry. R.C. + spied trout in it, and schools of darkish, mullet-like fish which + we were informed were grayling. We wished for our tackle then and + for time to fish.</p> + + <p>Teague's man, a young fellow called Virgil, met us here. He + did not resemble the ancient Virgil in the least, but he did look + as if he had walked right out of one of my romances of wild + riders. So I took a liking to him at once.</p> + + <p>But the bunch of horses he had corralled there did not excite + any delight in me. Horses, of course, were the most important + part of our outfit. And that moment of first seeing the horses + that were to carry us on such long rides was an anxious and + thrilling one. I have felt it many times, and it never grows any + weaker from experience. Many a scrubby lot of horses had turned + out well upon acquaintance, and some I had found hard to part + with at the end of trips. Up to that time, however, I had not + seen a bear hunter's horses; and I was much concerned by the fact + that these were a sorry looking outfit, dusty, ragged, maneless, + cut and bruised and crippled. Still, I reflected, they were + bunched up so closely that I could not tell much about them, and + I decided to wait for Teague before I chose a horse for any + one.</p> + + <p>In an hour Teague trotted up to our resting place. Beside his + own mount he had two white saddle horses, and nine pack-animals, + heavily laden. Teague was a sturdy rugged man with bronzed face + and keen gray-blue eyes, very genial and humorous. Straightway I + got the impression that he liked work.</p> + + <p>"Let's organize," he said, briskly. "Have you picked the + horses you're goin' to ride?"</p> + + <p>Teague led from the midst of that dusty kicking bunch a rangy + powerful horse, with four white feet, a white face and a noble + head. He had escaped my eye. I felt thrillingly that here at + least was one horse.</p> + + <p>The rest of the horses were permanently crippled or + temporarily lame, and I had no choice, except to take the one it + would be kindest to ride.</p> + + <p>"He ain't much like your Silvermane or Black Star," said + Teague, laughing.</p> + + <p>"What do you know about them?" I asked, very much pleased at + this from him.</p> + + <p>"Well, I know all about them," he replied. "I'll have you the + best horse in this country in a few days. Fact is I've bought + him, an' he'll come with my cowboy, Vern.... Now, we're + organized. Let's move."</p><a name="image-0013"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg011_m.jpg" width="448" height="680" alt= + "A Spruce-shaded, Flower-skirted Lake "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0014"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg012a_m.jpg" width="448" height="339" alt= + "Looking Down Upon Cloud-filled Valleys "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0015"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg012b_m.jpg" width="448" height="334" alt= + "Searching Burned-over Ranges for Game "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We rode through a meadow along a spruce slope above which + towered the great mountain. It was a zigzag trail, rough, boggy, + and steep in places. The Stillwater meandered here, and little + breaks on the water gave evidence of feeding trout. We had + several miles of meadow, and then sheered off to the left up into + the timber. It was a spruce forest, very still and fragrant. We + climbed out up on a bench, and across a flat, up another bench, + out of the timber into the patches of snow. Here snow could be + felt in the air. Water was everywhere. I saw a fox, a badger, and + another furry creature, too illusive to name. One more climb + brought us to the top of the Flattop Pass, about eleven thousand + feet. The view in the direction from which we had come was + splendid, and led the eye to the distant sweeping ranges, dark + and dim along the horizon. The Flattops were flat enough, but not + very wide at this pass, and we were soon going down again into a + green gulf of spruce, with ragged peaks lifting beyond. Here + again I got the suggestion of limitless space. It took us an hour + to ride down to Little Trappers Lake, a small clear green sheet + of water. The larger lake was farther down. It was big, + irregular, and bordered by spruce forests, and shadowed by the + lofty gray peaks.</p> + + <p>The Camp was on the far side. The air appeared rather warm, + and mosquitoes bothered us. However, they did not stay long. It + was after sunset and I was too tired to have many + impressions.</p> + + <p>Our cook appeared to be a melancholy man. He had a deep + quavering voice, a long drooping mustache and sad eyes. He was + silent most of the time. The men called him Bill, and yelled when + they spoke, for he was somewhat deaf. It did not take me long to + discover that he was a good cook.</p> + + <p>Our tent was pitched down the slope from the cook tent. We + were too tired to sit round a camp-fire and talk. The stars were + white and splendid, and they hung over the flat ridges like great + beacon lights. The lake appeared to be inclosed on three sides by + amphitheatric mountains, black with spruce up to the gray walls + of rock. The night grew cold and very still. The bells on the + horses tinkled distantly. There was a soft murmur of falling + water. A lonesome coyote barked, and that thrilled me. Teague's + dogs answered this prowler, and some of them had voices to make a + hunter thrill. One, the bloodhound Cain, had a roar like a + lion's. I had not gotten acquainted with the hounds, and I was + thinking about them when I fell asleep.</p> + + <p>Next morning I was up at five-thirty. The air was cold and + nipping and frost shone on grass and sage. A red glow of sunrise + gleamed on the tip of the mountain and slowly grew downward.</p> + + <p>The cool handle of an axe felt good. I soon found, however, + that I could not wield it long for lack of breath. The elevation + was close to ten thousand feet and the air at that height was + thin and rare. After each series of lusty strokes I had to rest. + R.C., who could handle an axe as he used to swing a baseball bat, + made fun of my efforts. Whereupon I relinquished the tool to him, + and chuckled at his discomfiture.</p> + + <p>After breakfast R.C. and I got out our tackles and rigged up + fly rods, and sallied forth to the lake with the same eagerness + we had felt when we were boys going after chubs and sunfish. The + lake glistened green in the sunlight and it lay like a gem at the + foot of the magnificent black slopes.</p> + + <p>The water was full of little floating particles that Teague + called wild rice. I thought the lake had begun to work, like + eastern lakes during dog days. It did not look propitious for + fishing, but Teague reassured us. The outlet of this lake was the + head of White River. We tried the outlet first, but trout were + not rising there. Then we began wading and casting along a + shallow bar of the lake. Teague had instructed us to cast, then + drag the flies slowly across the surface of the water, in + imitation of a swimming fly or bug. I tried this, and several + times, when the leader was close to me and my rod far back, I had + strikes. With my rod in that position I could not hook the trout. + Then I cast my own way, letting the flies sink a little. To my + surprise and dismay I had only a few strikes and could not hook + the fish.</p> + + <p>R.C., however, had better luck, and that too in wading right + over the ground I had covered. To beat me at anything always gave + him the most unaccountable fiendish pleasure.</p> + + <p>"These are educated trout," he said. "It takes a skillful + fisherman to make them rise. Now anybody can catch the big game + of the sea, which is your forte. But here you are N.G.... Watch + me cast!"</p> + + <p>I watched him make a most atrocious cast. But the water + boiled, and he hooked two good-sized trout at once. Quite + speechless with envy and admiration I watched him play them and + eventually beach them. They were cutthroat trout, silvery-sided + and marked with the red slash along their gills that gave them + their name. I did not catch any while wading, but from the bank I + spied one, and dropping a fly in front of his nose, I got him. + R.C. caught four more, all about a pound in weight, and then he + had a strike that broke his leader. He did not have another + leader, so we walked back to camp.</p> + + <p>Wild flowers colored the open slopes leading down out of the + forest. Golden rod, golden daisies, and bluebells were plentiful + and very pretty. Here I found my first columbine, the beautiful + flower that is the emblem of Colorado. In vivid contrast to its + blue, Indian paint brush thinly dotted the slopes and varied in + color from red to pink and from white to yellow.</p> + + <p>My favorite of all wild flowers—the purple + asters—were there too, on tall nodding stems, with pale + faces held up to the light. The reflection of mountain and forest + in Trappers Lake was clear and beautiful.</p> + + <p>The hounds bayed our approach to camp. We both made a great + show about beginning our little camp tasks, but we did not last + very long. The sun felt so good and it was so pleasant to lounge + under a pine. One of the blessings of outdoor life was that a man + could be like an Indian and do nothing. So from rest I passed to + dreams and from dreams to sleep.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon R.C. and I went out again to try for trout. + The lake appeared to be getting thicker with that floating muck + and we could not raise a fish. Then we tried the outlet again. + Here the current was swift. I found a place between two willow + banks where trout were breaking on the surface. It took a long + cast for me, but about every tenth attempt I would get a fly over + the right place and raise a fish. They were small, but that did + not detract from my gratification. The light on the water was + just right for me to see the trout rise, and that was a beautiful + sight as well as a distinct advantage. I had caught four when a + shout from R.C. called me quickly down stream. I found him + standing in the middle of a swift chute with his rod bent double + and a long line out.</p> + + <p>"Got a whale!" he yelled. "See him—down there—in + that white water. See him flash red!... Go down there and land + him for me. Hurry! He's got all the line!"</p> + + <p>I ran below to an open place in the willows. Here the stream + was shallow and very swift. In the white water I caught a + flashing gleam of red. Then I saw the shine of the leader. But I + could not reach it without wading in. When I did this the trout + lunged out. He looked crimson and silver. I could have put my + fist in his mouth.</p> + + <p>"Grab the leader! Yank him out!" yelled R.C. in desperation. + "There! He's got all the line."</p> + + <p>"But it'd be better to wade down," I yelled back.</p> + + <p>He shouted that the water was too deep and for me to save his + fish. This was an awful predicament for me. I knew the instant I + grasped the leader that the big trout would break it or pull + free. The same situation, with different kinds of fish, had + presented itself many times on my numberless fishing jaunts with + R.C. and they all crowded to my mind. Nevertheless I had no + choice. Plunging in to my knees I frantically reached for the + leader. The red trout made a surge. I missed him. R.C. yelled + that something would break. That was no news to me. Another + plunge brought me in touch with the leader. Then I essayed to + lead the huge cutthroat ashore. He was heavy. But he was tired + and that gave birth to hopes. Near the shore as I was about to + lift him he woke up, swam round me twice, then ran between my + legs.</p> + + <p>When, a little later, R.C. came panting down stream I was + sitting on the bank, all wet, with one knee skinned and I was + holding his broken leader in my hands. Strange to say, he went + into a rage! Blamed me for the loss of that big trout! Under such + circumstances it was always best to maintain silence and I did so + as long as I could. After his paroxysm had spent itself and he + had become somewhat near a rational being once more he asked + me:</p> + + <p>"Was he big?"</p> + + <p>"Oh—a whale of a trout!" I replied.</p> + + <p>"Humph! Well, how big?"</p> + + <p>Thereupon I enlarged upon the exceeding size and beauty of + that trout. I made him out very much bigger than he actually + looked to me and I minutely described his beauty and wonderful + gaping mouth. R.C. groaned and that was my revenge.</p> + + <p>We returned to camp early, and I took occasion to scrape + acquaintance with the dogs. It was a strangely assorted + pack—four Airedales, one bloodhound and seven other hounds + of mixed breeds. There were also three pup hounds, white and + yellow, very pretty dogs, and like all pups, noisy and + mischievous. They made friends easily. This applied also to one + of the Airedales, a dog recently presented to Teague by some + estimable old lady who had called him Kaiser and made a pet of + him. As might have been expected of a dog, even an Airedale, with + that name, he was no good. But he was very affectionate, and + exceedingly funny. When he was approached he had a trick of + standing up, holding up his forepaws in an appealing sort of way, + with his head twisted in the most absurd manner. This was when he + was chained—otherwise he would have been climbing up on + anyone who gave him the chance. He was the most jealous dog I + ever saw. He could not be kept chained very long because he + always freed himself. At meal time he would slip noiselessly + behind some one and steal the first morsel he could snatch. Bill + was always rapping Kaiser with pans or billets of firewood.</p> + + <p>Next morning was clear and cold. We had breakfast, and then + saddled up to ride to Big Fish Lake. For an hour we rode up and + down ridges of heavy spruce, along a trail. We saw elk and deer + sign. Elk tracks appeared almost as large as cow tracks. When we + left the trail to climb into heavy timber we began to look for + game. The forest was dark, green and brown, silent as a grave. No + squirrels or birds or sign of life! We had a hard ride up and + down steep slopes. A feature was the open swaths made by + avalanches. The ice and snow had cut a path through the timber, + and the young shoots of spruce were springing up. I imagined the + roar made by that tremendous slide.</p> + + <p>We found elk tracks everywhere and some fresh sign, where the + grass had been turned recently, and also much old and fresh sign + where the elk had skinned the saplings by rubbing their antlers + to get rid of the velvet. Some of these rubs looked like blazes + made by an axe. The Airedale Fox, a wonderful dog, routed out a + she-coyote that evidently had a den somewhere, for she barked + angrily at the dog and at us. Fox could not catch her. She led + him round in a circle, and we could not see her in the thick + brush. It was fine to hear the wild staccato note again.</p> + + <p>We crossed many little parks, bright and green, blooming with + wild asters and Indian paint brush and golden daisies. The + patches of red and purple were exceedingly beautiful. Everywhere + we rode we were knee deep in flowers. At length we came out of + the heavy timber down upon Big Fish Lake. This lake was about + half a mile across, deep blue-green in color, with rocky shores. + Upon the opposite side were beaver mounds. We could see big trout + swimming round, but they would not rise to a fly. R.C. went out + in an old boat and paddled to the head of the lake and fished at + the inlet. Here he caught a fine trout. I went around and up the + little river that fed the lake. It curved swiftly through a + meadow, and had deep, dark eddies under mossy, flowering banks. + At other places the stream ran swiftly over clean gravel beds. It + was musical and clear as crystal, and to the touch of hand, as + cold as ice water. I waded in and began to cast. I saw several + big trout, and at last coaxed one to take my fly. But I missed + him. Then in a swift current a flash of red caught my eye and I + saw a big trout lazily rise to my fly. Saw him take it! And I + hooked him. He was not active, but heavy and plunging, and he + bored in and out, and made short runs. I had not seen such + beautiful red colors in any fish. He made a fine fight, but at + last I landed him on the grass, a cutthroat of about one and + three-quarter pounds, deep red and silver and green, and spotted + all over. That was the extent of my luck.</p> + + <p>We went back to the point, and thought we would wait a little + while to see if the trout would begin to rise. But they did not. + A storm began to mutter and boom along the battlements. Great + gray clouds obscured the peaks, and at length the rain came. It + was cold and cutting. We sought the shelter of spruces for a + while, and waited. After an hour it cleared somewhat, and R.C. + caught a fine one-pound cutthroat, all green and silver, with + only two slashes of red along under the gills. Then another storm + threatened. Before we got ready to leave for camp the rain began + again to fall, and we looked for a wetting. It was raining hard + when we rode into the woods and very cold. The spruces were + dripping. But we soon got warm from hard riding up steep slopes. + After an hour the rain ceased, the sun came out, and from the + open places high up we could see a great green void of spruce, + and beyond, boundless black ranges, running off to dim horizon. + We flushed a big blue grouse with a brood of little ones, and at + length another big one.</p> + + <p>In one of the open parks the Airedale Fox showed signs of + scenting game. There was a patch of ground where the grass was + pressed down. Teague whispered and pointed. I saw the gray rump + of an elk protruding from behind some spruces. I beckoned for + R.C. and we both dismounted. Just then the elk rose and stalked + out. It was a magnificent bull with crowning lofty antlers. The + shoulders and neck appeared black. He raised his head, and + turning, trotted away with ease and grace for such a huge beast. + That was a wild and beautiful sight I had not seen before. We + were entranced, and when he disappeared, we burst out with + exclamations.</p> + + <p>We rode on toward camp, and out upon a bench that bordered the + lofty red wall of rock. From there we went down into heavy forest + again, dim and gray, with its dank, penetrating odor, and + oppressive stillness. The forest primeval! When we rode out of + that into open slopes the afternoon was far advanced, and long + shadows lay across the distant ranges. When we reached camp, + supper and a fire to warm cold wet feet were exceedingly welcome. + I was tired.</p> + + <p>Later, R.C. and I rode up a mile or so above camp, and hitched + our horses near Teague's old corral. Our intention was to hunt up + along the side of the slope. Teague came along presently. We + waited, hoping the big black clouds would break. But they did + not. They rolled down with gray, swirling edges, like smoke, and + a storm enveloped us. We sought shelter in a thick spruce. It + rained and hailed. By and bye the air grew bitterly cold, and + Teague suggested we give up, and ride back. So we did. The + mountains were dim and obscure through the gray gloom, and the + black spear-tipped spruces looked ghostly against the background. + The lightning was vivid, and the thunder rolled and crashed in + magnificent bombardment across the heavens.</p> + + <p>Next morning at six-thirty the sun was shining clear, and only + a few clouds sailed in the blue. Wind was in the west and the + weather promised fair. But clouds began to creep up behind the + mountains, first hazy, then white, then dark. Nevertheless we + decided to ride out, and cross the Flattop rim, and go around + what they call the Chinese Wall. It rained as we climbed through + the spruces above Little Trappers Lake. And as we got near the + top it began to hail. Again the air grew cold. Once out on top I + found a wide expanse, green and white, level in places, but with + huge upheavals of ridge. There were flowers here at eleven + thousand feet. The view to the rear was impressive—a wide + up-and-down plain studded with out-cropping of rocks, and patches + of snow. We were then on top of the Chinese Wall, and the view to + the west was grand. At the moment hail was falling thick and + white, and to stand above the streaked curtain, as it fell into + the abyss was a strange new experience. Below, two thousand feet, + lay the spruce forest, and it sloped and dropped into the White + River Valley, which in turn rose, a long ragged dark-green slope, + up to a bare jagged peak. Beyond this stretched range on range, + dark under the lowering pall of clouds. On top we found fresh + Rocky Mountain sheep tracks. A little later, going into a draw, + we crossed a snow-bank, solid as ice. We worked down into this + draw into the timber. It hailed, and rained some more, then + cleared. The warm sun felt good. Once down in the parks we began + to ride through a flower-garden. Every slope was beautiful in + gold, and red, and blue and white. These parks were luxuriant + with grass, and everywhere we found elk beds, where the great + stags had been lying, to flee at our approach. But we did not see + one. The bigness of this slope impressed me. We rode miles and + miles, and every park was surrounded by heavy timber. At length + we got into a burned district where the tall dead spruces stood + sear and ghastly, and the ground was so thickly strewn with + fallen trees that we had difficulty in threading a way through + them. Patches of aspen grew on the hillside, still fresh and + green despite this frosty morning. Here we found a sego lily, one + of the most beautiful of flowers. Here also I saw pink Indian + paint brush. At the foot of this long burned slope we came to the + White River trail, and followed it up and around to camp.</p> + + <p>Late in the evening, about sunset, I took my rifle and slipped + off into the woods back of camp. I walked a short distance, then + paused to listen to the silence of the forest. There was not a + sound. It was a place of peace. By and bye I heard snapping of + twigs, and presently heard R.C. and Teague approaching me. We + penetrated half a mile into the spruce, pausing now and then to + listen. At length R.C. heard something. We stopped. After a + little I heard the ring of a horn on wood. It was thrilling. Then + came the crack of a hoof on stone, then the clatter of a loosened + rock. We crept on. But that elk or deer evaded us. We hunted + around till dark without farther sign of any game.</p> + + <p>R.C. and Teague and I rode out at seven-thirty and went down + White River for three miles. In one patch of bare ground we saw + tracks of five deer where they had come in for salt. Then we + climbed high up a burned ridge, winding through patches of aspen. + We climbed ridge after ridge, and at last got out of the burned + district into reaches of heavy spruce. Coming to a park full of + deer and elk tracks, we dismounted and left our horses. I went to + the left, and into some beautiful woods, where I saw beds of deer + or elk, and many tracks. Returning to the horses, I led them into + a larger park, and climbed high into the open and watched. There + I saw some little squirrels about three inches long, and some + gray birds, very tame. I waited a long time before there was any + sign of R.C. or Teague, and then it was the dog I saw first. I + whistled, and they climbed up to me. We mounted and rode on for + an hour, then climbed through a magnificent forest of huge trees, + windfalls, and a ferny, mossy, soft ground. At length we came out + at the head of a steep, bare slope, running down to a verdant + park crossed by stretches of timber. On the way back to camp we + ran across many elk beds and deer trails, and for a while a small + band of elk evidently trotted ahead of us, but out of sight.</p> + + <p>Next day we started for a few days' trip to Big Fish Lake. + R.C. and I went along up around the mountain. I found our old + trail, and was at a loss only a few times. We saw fresh elk sign, + but no live game at all.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we fished. I went up the river half a mile, + while R.C. fished the lake. Neither of us had any luck. Later we + caught four trout, one of which was fair sized.</p> + + <p>Toward sunset the trout began to rise all over the lake, but + we could not get them to take a fly.</p> + + <p>The following day we went up to Twin Lakes and found them to + be beautiful little green gems surrounded by spruce. I saw some + big trout in the large lake, but they were wary. We tried every + way to get a strike. No use! In the little lake matters were + worse. It was full of trout up to two pounds. They would run at + the fly, only to refuse it. Exasperating work! We gave up and + returned to Big Fish. After supper we went out to try again. The + lake was smooth and quiet. All at once, as if by concert, the + trout began to rise everywhere. In a little bay we began to get + strikes. I could see the fish rise to the fly. The small ones + were too swift and the large ones too slow, it seemed. We caught + one, and then had bad luck. We snarled our lines, drifted wrong, + broke leaders, snapped off flies, hooked too quick and too slow, + and did everything that was clumsy. I lost two big fish because + they followed the fly as I drew it toward me across the water to + imitate a swimming fly. Of course this made a large slack line + which I could not get up. Finally I caught one big fish, and + altogether we got seven. All in that little bay, where the water + was shallow! In other places we could not catch a fish. I had one + vicious strike. The fish appeared to be feeding on a tiny black + gnat, which we could not imitate. This was the most trying + experience of all. We ought to have caught a basketful.</p> + + <p>The next day, September first, we rode down along the outlet + of Big Fish to White River and down that for miles to fish for + grayling. The stream was large and swift and cold. It appeared + full of ice water and rocks, but no fish. We met fishermen, an + automobile, and a camp outfit. That was enough for me. Where an + automobile can run, I do not belong. The fishing was poor. But + the beautiful open valley, flowered in gold and purple, was + recompense for a good deal of bad luck.</p> + + <p>A grayling, or what they called a grayling, was not as + beautiful a fish as my fancy had pictured. He resembled a sucker + or mullet, had a small mouth, dark color, and was rather a + sluggish-looking fish.</p> + + <p>We rode back through a thunderstorm, and our yellow slickers + afforded much comfort.</p> + + <p>Next morning was bright, clear, cold. I saw the moon go down + over a mountain rim rose-flushed with the sunrise.</p> + + <p>R.C. and I, with Teague, started for the top of the big + mountain on the west. I had a new horse, a roan, and he looked a + thoroughbred. He appeared tired. But I thought he would be great. + We took a trail through the woods, dark green-gray, cool and + verdant, odorous and still. We began to climb. Occasionally we + crossed parks, and little streams. Up near the long, bare slope + the spruce trees grew large and far apart. They were beautiful, + gray as if bearded with moss. Beyond this we got into the rocks + and climbing became arduous. Long zigzags up the slope brought us + to the top of a notch, where at the right lay a patch of snow. + The top of the mountain was comparatively flat, but it had + timbered ridges and bare plains and little lakes, with dark + domes, rising beyond. We rode around to the right, climbing out + of the timber to where the dwarf spruces and brush had a hard + struggle for life. The great gulf below us was immense, dark, and + wild, studded with lakes and parks, and shadowed by moving + clouds.</p> + + <p>Sheep tracks, old and fresh, afforded us thrills.</p> + + <p>Away on the western rim, where we could look down upon a long + rugged iron-gray ridge of mountain, our guide using the glass, + found two big stags. We all had our fill of looking. I could see + them plainly with naked eyes.</p> + + <p>We decided to go back to where we could climb down on that + side, halter the horses, leave all extra accoutrements, and stalk + those stags, and take a picture of them.</p> + + <p>I led the way, and descended under the rim. It was up and down + over rough shale, and up steps of broken rocks, and down little + cliffs. We crossed the ridge twice, many times having to lend a + hand to each other.</p> + + <p>At length I reached a point where I could see the stags lying + down. The place was an open spot on a rocky promonotory with a + fringe of low spruces. The stags were magnificent in size, with + antlers in the velvet. One had twelve points. They were lying in + the sun to harden their horns, according to our guide.</p> + + <p>I slipped back to the others, and we all decided to have a + look. So we climbed up. All of us saw the stags, twitching ears + and tails.</p> + + <p>Then we crept back, and once more I took the lead to crawl + round under the ledge so we could come up about even with them. + Here I found the hardest going yet. I came to a wind-worn crack + in the thin ledge, and from this I could just see the tips of the + antlers. I beckoned the others. Laboriously they climbed. R.C. + went through first. I went over next, and then came Teague.</p> + + <p>R.C. and I started to crawl down to a big rock that was our + objective point. We went cautiously, with bated breath and + pounding hearts. When we got there I peeped over to see the stags + still lying down. But they had heads intent and wary. Still I did + not think they had scented us. R.C. took a peep, and turning + excitedly he whispered:</p> + + <p>"See only one. And he's standing!"</p> + + <p>And I answered: "Let's get down around to the left where we + can get a better chance." It was only a few feet down. We got + there.</p> + + <p>When he peeped over at this point he exclaimed: "They're + gone!"</p> + + <p>It was a keen disappointment. "They winded us," I decided.</p> + + <p>We looked and looked. But we could not see to our left because + of the bulge of rock. We climbed back. Then I saw one of the + stags loping leisurely off to the left. Teague was calling. He + said they had walked off the promontory, looking up, and stopping + occasionally.</p> + + <p>Then we realized we must climb back along that broken ridge + and then up to the summit of the mountain. So we started.</p> + + <p>That climb back was proof of the effect of excitement on + judgment. We had not calculated at all on the distance or + ruggedness, and we had a job before us. We got along well under + the western wall, and fairly well straight across through the + long slope of timber, where we saw sheep tracks, and expected any + moment to sight an old ram. But we did not find one, and when we + got out of the timber upon the bare sliding slope we had to halt + a hundred times. We could zigzag only a few steps. The altitude + was twelve thousand feet, and oxygen seemed scarce. I nearly + dropped. All the climbing appeared to come hardest on the middle + of my right foot, and it could scarcely have burned hotter if it + had been in fire. Despite the strenuous toil there were not many + moments that I was not aware of the vastness of the gulf below, + or the peaceful lakes, brown as amber, or the golden parks. And + nearer at hand I found magenta-colored Indian paint brush, very + exquisite and rare.</p> + + <p>Coming out on a ledge I spied a little, dark animal with a + long tail. He was running along the opposite promontory about + three hundred yards distant. When he stopped I took a shot at him + and missed by apparently a scant half foot.</p> + + <p>After catching our breath we climbed more and more, and still + more, at last to drop on the rim, hot, wet and utterly spent.</p> + + <p>The air was keen, cold, and invigorating. We were soon rested, + and finding our horses we proceeded along the rim westward. Upon + rounding an out-cropping of rock we flushed a flock of + ptarmigan—soft gray, rock-colored birds about the size of + pheasants, and when they flew they showed beautiful white bands + on their wings. These are the rare birds that have feathered feet + and turn white in winter. They did not fly far, and several were + so tame they did not fly at all. We got our little .22 revolvers + and began to shoot at the nearest bird. He was some thirty feet + distant. But we could not hit him, and at last Fox, getting + disgusted, tried to catch the bird and made him fly. I felt + relieved, for as we were getting closer and closer with every + shot, it seemed possible that if the ptarmigan sat there long + enough we might eventually have hit him. The mystery was why we + shot so poorly. But this was explained by R.C., who discovered we + had been shooting the wrong shells.</p> + + <p>It was a long hard ride down the rough winding trail. But + riding down was a vastly different thing from going up.</p> + + <p>On September third we were up at five-thirty. It was clear and + cold and the red of sunrise tinged the peaks. The snow banks + looked pink. All the early morning scene was green, fresh, cool, + with that mountain rareness of atmosphere.</p> + + <p>We packed to break camp, and after breakfast it took hours to + get our outfit in shape to start—a long string, resembling + a caravan. I knew that events would occur that day. First we lost + one of the dogs. Vern went back after him. The dogs were mostly + chained in pairs, to prevent their running off. Samson, the giant + hound, was chained to a little dog, and the others were paired + not according to size by any means. The poor dogs were disgusted + with the arrangement. It developed presently that Cain, the + bloodhound, a strange and wild hound much like Don of my old + lion-hunting days, slipped us, and was not missed for hours. + Teague decided to send back for him later.</p> + + <p>Next in order of events, as we rode up the winding trail + through the spruce forest, we met Teague's cow and calf, which he + had kept all summer in camp. For some reason neither could be + left. Teague told us to ride on, and an hour later when we halted + to rest on the Flattop Mountain he came along with the rest of + the train, and in the fore was the cow alone. It was evident that + she was distressed and angry, for it took two men to keep her in + the trail. And another thing plain to me was the fact that she + was going to demoralize the pack horses. We were not across the + wide range of this flat mountain when one of the pack animals, a + lean and lanky sorrel, appeared suddenly to go mad, and began to + buck off a pack. He succeeded. This inspired a black horse, very + appropriately christened Nigger, to try his luck, and he shifted + his pack in short order. It took patience, time, and effort to + repack. The cow was a disorganizer. She took up as wide a trail + as a road. And the pack animals, some with dignity and others + with disgust, tried to avoid her vicinity. Going down the steep + forest trail on the other side the real trouble began. The pack + train split, ran and bolted, crashing through the trees, plunging + down steep places, and jumping logs. It was a wild sort of chase. + But luckily the packs remained intact until we were once more on + open, flat ground. All went well for a while, except for an + accident for which I was to blame. I spurred my horse, and he + plunged suddenly past R.C.'s mount, colliding with him, tearing + off my stirrup, and spraining R.C.'s ankle. This was almost a + serious accident, as R.C. has an old baseball ankle that required + favoring.</p> + + <p>Next in order was the sorrel. As I saw it, he heedlessly went + too near the cow, which we now called Bossy, and she acted + somewhat like a Spanish Bull, to the effect that the sorrel was + scared and angered at once. He began to run and plunge and buck + right into the other pack animals, dropping articles from his + pack as he dashed along. He stampeded the train, and gave the + saddle horses a scare. When order was restored and the whole + outfit gathered together again a full hour had been lost. By this + time all the horses were tired, and that facilitated progress, + because there were no more serious breaks.</p> + + <p>Down in the valley it was hot, and the ride grew long and + wearisome. Nevertheless, the scenery was beautiful. The valley + was green and level, and a meandering stream formed many little + lakes. On one side was a steep hill of sage and aspens, and on + the other a black, spear-pointed spruce forest, rising sheer to a + bold, blunt peak patched with snow-banks, and bronze and gray in + the clear light. Huge white clouds sailed aloft, making dark + moving shadows along the great slopes.</p> + + <p>We reached our turning-off place about five o'clock, and again + entered the fragrant, quiet forest—a welcome change. We + climbed and climbed, at length coming into an open park of slopes + and green borders of forest, with a lake in the center. We + pitched camp on the skirt of the western slope, under the + spruces, and worked hard to get the tents up and boughs cut for + beds. Darkness caught us with our hands still full, and we ate + supper in the light of a camp-fire, with the black, deep forest + behind, and the pale afterglow across the lake.</p> + + <p>I had a bad night, being too tired to sleep well. Many times I + saw the moon shadows of spruce branches trembling on the tent + walls, and the flickering shadows of the dying camp-fire. I heard + the melodious tinkle of the bells on the hobbled horses. Bossy + bawled often—a discordant break in the serenity of the + night. Occasionally the hounds bayed her.</p> + + <p>Toward morning I slept some, and awakened with what seemed a + broken back. All, except R.C., were slow in crawling out. The sun + rose hot. This lower altitude was appreciated by all. After + breakfast we set to work to put the camp in order.</p> + + <p>That afternoon we rode off to look over the ground. We crossed + the park and worked up a timbered ridge remarkable for mossy, + bare ground, and higher up for its almost total absence of grass + or flowers. On the other side of this we had a fine view of Mt. + Dome, a high peak across a valley. Then we worked down into the + valley, which was full of parks and ponds and running streams. We + found some fresh sign of deer, and a good deal of old elk and + deer sign. But we saw no game of any kind. It was a tedious ride + back through thick forest, where I observed many trees that had + been barked by porcupines. Some patches were four feet from the + ground, indicating that the porcupine had sat on the snow when he + gnawed those particular places.</p> + + <p>After sunset R.C. and I went off down a trail into the woods, + and sitting down under a huge spruce we listened. The forest was + solemn and still. Far down somewhere roared a stream, and that + was all the sound we heard. The gray shadows darkened and gloom + penetrated the aisles of the forest, until all the sheltered + places were black as pitch. The spruces looked spectral—and + speaking. The silence of the woods was deep, profound, and + primeval. It all worked on my imagination until I began to hear + faint sounds, and finally grand orchestral crashings of + melody.</p> + + <p>On our return the strange creeping chill, that must be a + descendant of the old elemental fear, caught me at all obscure + curves in the trail.</p><a name="image-0016"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg013a_m.jpg" width="448" height="339" alt= + "A Hunter's Cabin on a Frosty Morning "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Next day we started off early, and climbed through the woods + and into the parks under the Dome. We scared a deer that had + evidently been drinking. His fresh tracks led before us, but we + could not catch a glimpse of him.</p><a name="image-0017"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg013b_m.jpg" width="448" height="365" alt= + "The Troublesome Country, Noted for Grizzly Bears "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We climbed out of the parks, up onto the rocky ridges where + the spruce grew scarce, and then farther to the jumble of stones + that had weathered from the great peaks above, and beyond that up + the slope where all the vegetation was dwarfed, deformed, and + weird, strange manifestation of its struggle for life. Here the + air grew keener and cooler, and the light seemed to expand. We + rode on to the steep slope that led up to the gap we were to + cross between the Dome and its companion.</p><a name= + "image-0018"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg014_m.jpg" width="767" height="448" alt= + "Under the Shadow of The Flattop Mountains "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>I saw a red fox running up the slope, and dismounting I took a + quick shot at three hundred yards, and scored a hit. It turned + out to be a cross fox, and had very pretty fur.</p> + + <p>When we reached the level of the deep gap the wind struck us + hard and cold. On that side opened an abyss, gray and shelving as + it led down to green timber, and then on to the yellow parks and + black ridges that gleamed under the opposite range.</p> + + <p>We had to work round a wide amphitheater, and up a steep + corner to the top. This turned out to be level and smooth for a + long way, with a short, velvety yellow grass, like moss, spotted + with flowers. Here at thirteen thousand feet, the wind hit us + with exceeding force, and soon had us with freezing hands and + faces. All about us were bold black and gray peaks, with patches + of snow, and above them clouds of white and drab, showing blue + sky between. It developed that this grassy summit ascended in a + long gradual sweep, from the apex of which stretched a grand + expanse, like a plain of gold, down and down, endlessly almost, + and then up and up to end under a gray butte, highest of the + points around. The ride across here seemed to have no limit, but + it was beautiful, though severe on endurance. I saw another fox, + and dismounting, fired five shots as he ran, dusting him with + three bullets. We rode out to the edge of the mountain and looked + off. It was fearful, yet sublime. The world lay beneath us. In + many places we rode along the rim, and at last circled the great + butte, and worked up behind it on a swell of slope. Here the + range ran west and the drop was not sheer, but, gradual with fine + benches for sheep. We found many tracks and fresh sign, but did + not see one sheep. Meanwhile the hard wind had ceased, and the + sun had come out, making the ride comfortable, as far as weather + was concerned. We had gotten a long way from camp, and finding no + trail to descend in that direction we turned to retrace our + steps. That was about one o'clock, and we rode and rode and rode, + until I was so tired that I could not appreciate the scenes as I + had on the way up. It took six hours to get back to camp!</p> + + <p>Next morning we took the hounds and rode off for bear. Eight + of the hounds were chained in braces, one big and one little dog + together, and they certainly had a hard time of it. Sampson, the + giant gray and brown hound, and Jim, the old black leader, were + free to run to and fro across the way. We rode down a few miles, + and into the forest. There were two long, black ridges, and here + we were to hunt for bear. It was the hardest kind of work, + turning and twisting between the trees, dodging snags, and + brushing aside branches, and guiding a horse among fallen logs. + The forest was thick, and the ground was a rich brown and black + muck, soft to the horses' feet. Many times the hounds got caught + on snags, and had to be released. Once Sampson picked up a scent + of some kind, and went off baying. Old Jim ran across that trail + and returned, thus making it clear that there was no bear trail. + We penetrated deep between the two ridges, and came to a little + lake, about thirty feet wide, surrounded by rushes and grass. + Here we rested the horses, and incidentally, ourselves. Fox + chased a duck, and it flew into the woods and hid under a log. + Fox trailed it, and Teague shot it just as he might have a + rabbit. We got two more ducks, fine big mallards, the same way. + It was amazing to me, and R.C. remarked that never had he seen + such strange and foolish ducks.</p> + + <p>This forest had hundreds of trees barked by porcupines, and + some clear to the top. But we met only one of the animals, and he + left several quills in the nose of one of the pups. I was of the + opinion that these porcupines destroy many fine trees, as I saw a + number barked all around.</p> + + <p>We did not see any bear sign. On the way back to camp we rode + out of the forest and down a wide valley, the opposite side of + which was open slope with patches of alder. Even at a distance I + could discern the color of these open glades and grassy benches. + They had a tinge of purple, like purple sage. When I got to them + I found a profusion of asters of the most exquisite shades of + lavender, pink and purple. That slope was long, and all the way + up we rode through these beautiful wild flowers. I shall never + forget that sight, nor the many asters that shone like stars out + of the green. The pink ones were new to me, and actually did not + seem real. I noticed my horse occasionally nipped a bunch and ate + them, which seemed to me almost as heartless as to tread them + under foot.</p> + + <p>When we got up the slope and into the woods again we met a + storm, and traveled for an hour in the rain, and under the + dripping spruces, feeling the cold wet sting of swaying branches + as we rode by. Then the sun came out bright and the forest + glittered, all gold and green. The smell of the woods after a + rain is indescribable. It combines a rare tang of pine, spruce, + earth and air, all refreshed.</p> + + <p>The day after, we left at eight o'clock, and rode down to the + main trail, and up that for five miles where we cut off to the + left and climbed into the timber. The woods were fresh and dewy, + dark and cool, and for a long time we climbed bench after bench + where the grass and ferns and moss made a thick, deep cover. + Farther up we got into fallen timber and made slow progress. At + timber line we tied the horses and climbed up to the pass between + two great mountain ramparts. Sheep tracks were in evidence, but + not very fresh. Teague and I climbed on top and R.C., with Vern, + went below just along the timber line. The climb on foot took all + my strength, and many times I had to halt for breath. The air was + cold. We stole along the rim and peered over. R.C. and Vern + looked like very little men far below, and the dogs resembled + mice.</p> + + <p>Teague climbed higher, and left me on a promontory, watching + all around.</p> + + <p>The cloud pageant was magnificent, with huge billowy white + masses across the valley, and to the west great black + thunderheads rolling up. The wind began to blow hard, carrying + drops of rain that stung, and the air was nipping cold. I felt + aloof from all the crowded world, alone on the windy heights, + with clouds and storm all around me.</p> + + <p>When the storm threatened I went back to the horses. It broke, + but was not severe after all. At length R.C. and the men returned + and we mounted to ride back to camp. The storm blew away, leaving + the sky clear and blue, and the sun shone warm. We had an hour of + winding in and out among windfalls of timber, and jumping logs, + and breaking through brush. Then the way sloped down to a + beautiful forest, shady and green, full of mossy dells, almost + overgrown with ferns and low spreading ground pine or spruce. The + aisles of the forest were long and shaded by the stately spruces. + Water ran through every ravine, sometimes a brawling brook, + sometimes a rivulet hidden under overhanging mossy banks. We + scared up two lonely grouse, at long intervals. At length we got + into fallen timber, and from that worked into a jumble of rocks, + where the going was rough and dangerous.</p> + + <p>The afternoon waned as we rode on and on, up and down, in and + out, around, and at times the horses stood almost on their heads, + sliding down steep places where the earth was soft and black, and + gave forth a dank odor. We passed ponds and swamps, and little + lakes. We saw where beavers had gnawed down aspens, and we just + escaped miring our horses in marshes, where the grass grew, rich + and golden, hiding the treacherous mire. The sun set, and still + we did not seem to get anywhere. I was afraid darkness would + overtake us, and we would get lost in the woods. Presently we + struck an old elk trail, and following that for a while, came to + a point where R.C. and I recognized a tree and a glade where we + had been before—and not far from camp—a welcome + discovery.</p> + + <p>Next day we broke camp and started across country for new + territory near Whitley's Peak.</p> + + <p>We rode east up the mountain. After several miles along an old + logging road we reached the timber, and eventually the top of the + ridge. We went down, crossing parks and swales. There were cattle + pastures, and eaten over and trodden so much they had no beauty + left. Teague wanted to camp at a salt lick, but I did not care + for the place.</p> + + <p>We went on. The dogs crossed a bear trail, and burst out in a + clamor. We had a hard time holding them.</p> + + <p>The guide and I had a hot argument. I did not want to stay + there and chase a bear in a cow pasture.... So we went on, down + into ranch country, and this disgusted me further. We crossed a + ranch, and rode several miles on a highway, then turned abruptly, + and climbed a rough, rocky ridge, covered with brush and aspen. + We crossed it, and went down for several miles, and had to camp + in an aspen grove, on the slope of a ravine. It was an uninviting + place to stay, but as there was no other we had to make the best + of it. The afternoon had waned. I took a gun and went off down + the ravine, until I came to a deep gorge. Here I heard the sound + of a brawling brook. I sat down for an hour, but saw no game.</p> + + <p>That night I had a wretched bed, one that I could hardly stay + in, and I passed miserable hours. I got up sore, cramped, sleepy + and irritable. We had to wait three hours for the horses to be + caught and packed. I had predicted straying horses. At last we + were off, and rode along the steep slope of a canyon for several + miles, and then struck a stream of amber-colored water. As we + climbed along this we came into deep spruce forest, where it was + pleasure to ride. I saw many dells and nooks, cool and shady, + full of mossy rocks and great trees. But flowers were scarce. We + were sorry to pass the head-springs of that stream and to go on + over the divide and down into the wooded, but dry and stony + country. We rode until late, and came at last to a park where + sheep had been run. I refused to camp here, and Teague, in high + dudgeon, rode on. As it turned out I was both wise and lucky, for + we rode into a park with many branches, where there was good + water and fair grass and a pretty grove of white pines in which + to pitch our tents. I enjoyed this camp, and had a fine rest at + night.</p> + + <p>The morning broke dark and lowering. We hustled to get started + before a storm broke. It began to rain as we mounted our horses, + and soon we were in the midst of a cold rain. It blew hard. We + put on our slickers. After a short ride down through the forest + we entered Buffalo Park. This was a large park, and we lost time + trying to find a forester's trail leading out of it. At last we + found one, but it soon petered out, and we were lost in thick + timber, in a driving rain, with the cold and wind increasing. But + we kept on.</p> + + <p>This forest was deep and dark, with tremendous windfalls, and + great canyons around which we had to travel. It took us hours to + ride out of it. When we began to descend once more we struck an + old lumber road. More luck—the storm ceased, and presently + we were out on an aspen slope with a great valley beneath, and + high, black peaks beyond. Below the aspens were long swelling + slopes of sage and grass, gray and golden and green. A ranch lay + in the valley, and we crossed it to climb up a winding ravine, + once more to the aspens where we camped in the rancher's pasture. + It was a cold, wet camp, but we managed to be fairly + comfortable.</p> + + <p>The sunset was gorgeous. The mass of clouds broke and rolled. + There was exquisite golden light on the peaks, and many rose- and + violet-hued banks of cloud.</p> + + <p>Morning found us shrouded in fog. We were late starting. About + nine the curtain of gray began to lift and break. We climbed + pastures and aspen thickets, high up to the spruce, where the + grass grew luxuriant, and the red wall of rock overhung the long + slopes. The view west was magnificent—a long, bulging range + of mountains, vast stretches of green aspen slopes, winding parks + of all shapes, gray and gold and green, and jutting peaks, and + here and there patches of autumn blaze in grass and thicket.</p> + + <p>We spent the afternoon pitching camp on an aspen knoll, with + water, grass, and wood near at hand, and the splendid view of + mountains and valleys below.</p> + + <p>We spent many full days under the shadow of Whitley's Peak. + After the middle of September the aspens colored and blazed to + the touch of frost, and the mountain slopes were exceedingly + beautiful. Against a background of gray sage the gold and red and + purple aspen groves showed too much like exquisite paintings to + seem real. In the mornings the frost glistened thick and white on + the grass; and after the gorgeous sunsets of gold over the + violet-hazed ranges the air grew stingingly cold.</p> + + <p>Bear-chasing with a pack of hounds has been severely + criticised by many writers and I was among them. I believed it a + cowardly business, and that was why, if I chased bears with dogs, + I wanted to chase the kind that could not be treed. But like many + another I did not know what I was writing about. I did not shoot + a bear out of a tree and I would not do so, except in a case of + hunger. All the same, leaving the tree out of consideration, + bear-chasing with hounds is a tremendously exciting and hazardous + game. But my ideas about sport are changing. Hunting, in the + sportsman's sense, is a cruel and degenerate + business.</p><a name="image-0019"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg015_m.jpg" width="448" height="680" alt= + "White Aspen Tree, Showing Marks of Bear Claws "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>The more I hunt the more I become convinced of something wrong + about the game. I am a different man when I get a gun in my + hands. All is exciting, hot-pressed, red. Hunting is magnificent + up to the moment the shot is fired. After that it is another + matter. It is useless for sportsmen to tell me that they, in + particular, hunt right, conserve the game, do not go beyond the + limit, and all that sort of thing. I do not believe them and I + never met the guide who did. A rifle is made for killing. When a + man goes out with one he means to kill. He may keep within the + law, but that is not the question. It is a question of spirit, + and men who love to hunt are yielding to and always developing + the old primitive instinct to kill. The meaning of the spirit of + life is not clear to them. An argument may be advanced that, + according to the laws of self-preservation and the survival of + the fittest, if a man stops all strife, all fight, then he will + retrograde. And that is to say if a man does not go to the wilds + now and then, and work hard and live some semblance of the life + of his progenitors, he will weaken. It seems that he will, but I + am not prepared now to say whether or not that would be well. The + Germans believe they are the race fittest to survive over all + others—and that has made me a little sick of this Darwin + business.</p><a name="image-0020"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg016_m.jpg" width="448" height="707" alt= + "A Black Bear Treed "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>To return, however, to the fact that to ride after hounds on a + wild chase is a dangerous and wonderfully exhilarating + experience, I will relate a couple of instances, and I will leave + it to my readers to judge whether or not it is a cowardly + sport.</p> + + <p>One afternoon a rancher visited our camp and informed us that + he had surprised a big black bear eating the carcass of a dead + cow.</p> + + <p>"Good! We'll have a bear to-morrow night," declared Teague, in + delight. "We'll get him even if the trail is a day old. But he'll + come back to-night."</p> + + <p>Early next morning the young rancher and three other boys rode + into camp, saying they would like to go with us to see the fun. + We were glad to have them, and we rode off through the frosted + sage that crackled like brittle glass under the hoofs of the + horses. Our guide led toward a branch of a park, and when we got + within perhaps a quarter of a mile Teague suggested that R.C. and + I go ahead on the chance of surprising the bear. It was owing to + this suggestion that my brother and I were well ahead of the + others. But we did not see any bear near the carcass of the cow. + Old Jim and Sampson were close behind us, and when Jim came + within forty yards of that carcass he put his nose up with a deep + and ringing bay, and he shot by us like a streak. He never went + near the dead cow! Sampson bayed like thunder and raced after + Jim.</p> + + <p>"They're off!" I yelled to R.C. "It's a hot scent! Come + on!"</p> + + <p>We spurred our horses and they broke across the open park to + the edge of the woods. Jim and Sampson were running straight with + noses high. I heard a string of yelps and bellows from our + rear.</p> + + <p>"Look back!" shouted R.C.</p> + + <p>Teague and the cowboys were unleashing the rest of the pack. + It surely was great to see them stretch out, yelping wildly. Like + the wind they passed us. Jim and Sampson headed into the woods + with deep bays. I was riding Teague's best horse for this sort of + work and he understood the game and plainly enjoyed it. R.C.'s + horse ran as fast in the woods as he did in the open. This + frightened me, and I yelled to R.C. to be careful. I yelled to + deaf ears. That is the first great risk—a rider is not + going to be careful! We were right on top of Jim and Sampson with + the pack clamoring mad music just behind. The forest rang. Both + horses hurdled logs, sometimes two at once. My old lion chases + with Buffalo Jones had made me skillful in dodging branches and + snags, and sliding knees back to avoid knocking them against + trees. For a mile the forest was comparatively open, and here we + had a grand and ringing run. I received two hard knocks, was + unseated once, but held on, and I got a stinging crack in the + face from a branch. R.C. added several more black-and-blue spots + to his already spotted anatomy, and he missed, just by an inch, a + solid snag that would have broken him in two. The pack stretched + out in wild staccato chorus, the little Airedales literally + screeching. Jim got out of our sight and then Sampson. Still it + was ever more thrilling to follow by sound rather than sight. + They led up a thick, steep slope. Here we got into trouble in the + windfalls of timber and the pack drew away from us, up over the + mountain. We were half way up when we heard them jump the bear. + The forest seemed full of strife and bays and yelps. We heard the + dogs go down again to our right, and as we turned we saw Teague + and the others strung out along the edge of the park. They got + far ahead of us. When we reached the bottom of the slope they + were out of sight, but we could hear them yell. The hounds were + working around on another slope, from which craggy rocks loomed + above the timber. R.C.'s horse lunged across the park and + appeared to be running off from mine. I was a little to the + right, and when my horse got under way, full speed, we had the + bad luck to plunge suddenly into soft ground. He went to his + knees, and I sailed out of the saddle fully twenty feet, to + alight all spread out and to slide like a plow. I did not seem to + be hurt. When I got up my horse was coming and he appeared to be + patient with me, but he was in a hurry. Before we got across the + wet place R.C. was out of sight. I decided that instead of + worrying about him I had better think about myself. Once on hard + ground my horse fairly charged into the woods and we broke brush + and branches as if they had been punk. It was again open forest, + then a rocky slope, and then a flat ridge with aisles between the + trees. Here I heard the melodious notes of Teague's hunting horn, + and following that, the full chorus of the hounds. They had treed + the bear. Coming into still more open forest, with rocks here and + there, I caught sight of R.C. far ahead, and soon I had glimpses + of the other horses, and lastly, while riding full tilt, I spied + a big, black, glistening bear high up in a pine a hundred yards + or more distant.</p> + + <p>Slowing down I rode up to the circle of frenzied dogs and + excited men. The boys were all jabbering at once. Teague was + beaming. R.C. sat his horse, and it struck me that he looked + sorry for the bear.</p> + + <p>"Fifteen minutes!" ejaculated Teague, with a proud glance at + Old Jim standing with forepaws up on the pine.</p> + + <p>Indeed it had been a short and ringing chase.</p> + + <p>All the time while I fooled around trying to photograph the + treed bear, R.C. sat there on his horse, looking upward.</p> + + <p>"Well, gentlemen, better kill him," said Teague, cheerfully. + "If he gets rested he'll come down."</p> + + <p>It was then I suggested to R.C. that he do the shooting.</p> + + <p>"Not much!" he exclaimed.</p> + + <p>The bear looked really pretty perched up there. He was as + round as a barrel and black as jet and his fur shone in the + gleams of sunlight. His tongue hung out, and his plump sides + heaved, showing what a quick, hard run he had made before being + driven to the tree. What struck me most forcibly about him was + the expression in his eyes as he looked down at those devils of + hounds. He was scared. He realized his peril. It was utterly + impossible for me to see Teague's point of view.</p> + + <p>"Go ahead—and plug him," I replied to my brother. "Get + it over."</p> + + <p>"You do it," he said.</p> + + <p>"No, I won't."</p> + + <p>"Why not—I'd like to know?"</p> + + <p>"Maybe we won't have so good a chance again—and I want + you to get your bear," I replied.</p> + + <p>"Why it's like—murder," he protested.</p> + + <p>"Oh, not so bad as that," I returned, weakly. "We need the + meat. We've not had any game meat, you know, except ducks and + grouse."</p> + + <p>"You won't do it?" he added, grimly.</p> + + <p>"No, I refuse."</p> + + <p>Meanwhile the young ranchers gazed at us with wide eyes and + the expression on Teague's honest, ruddy face would have been + funny under other circumstances.</p> + + <p>"That bear will come down an' mebbe kill one of my dogs," he + protested.</p> + + <p>"Well, he can come for all I care," I replied, positively, and + I turned away.</p> + + <p>I heard R.C. curse low under his breath. Then followed the + spang of his .35 Remington. I wheeled in time to see the bear + straining upward in terrible convulsion, his head pointed high, + with blood spurting from his nose. Slowly he swayed and fell with + a heavy crash.</p><a name="image-0021"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg017_m.jpg" width="740" height="448" alt= + "Crossing the Colorado River at The Bottom of The Grand Canyon "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0022"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg018_m.jpg" width="448" height="695" alt= + "Where Rolls the Colorado "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>The next bear chase we had was entirely different + medicine.</p> + + <p>Off in the basin under the White Slides, back of our camp, the + hounds struck a fresh track and in an instant were out of sight. + With the cowboy Vern setting the pace we plunged after them. It + was rough country. Bogs, brooks, swales, rocky little parks, + stretches of timber full of windfalls, groves of aspens so thick + we could scarcely squeeze through—all these obstacles soon + allowed the hounds to get far away. We came out into a large + park, right under the mountain slope, and here we sat our horses + listening to the chase. That trail led around the basin and back + near to us, up the thick green slope, where high up near a ledge + we heard the pack jump this bear. It sounded to us as if he had + been roused out of a sleep.</p> + + <p>"I'll bet it's one of the big grizzlies we've heard about," + said Teague.</p> + + <p>That was something to my taste. I have seen a few grizzlies. + Riding to higher ground I kept close watch on the few open + patches up on the slope. The chase led toward us for a while. + Suddenly I saw a big bear with a frosted coat go lumbering across + one of these openings.</p> + + <p>"Silvertip! Silvertip!" I yelled at the top of my lungs. "I + saw him!"</p> + + <p>My call thrilled everybody. Vern spurred his horse and took to + the right. Teague advised that we climb the slope. So we made for + the timber. Once there we had to get off and climb on foot. It + was steep, rough, very hard work. I had on chaps and spurs. Soon + I was hot, laboring, and my heart began to hurt. We all had to + rest. The baying of the hounds inspirited us now and then, but + presently we lost it. Teague said they had gone over the ridge + and as soon as we got up to the top we would hear them again. We + struck an elk trail with fresh elk tracks in it. Teague said they + were just ahead of us. I never climbed so hard and fast in my + life. We were all tuckered out when we reached the top of the + ridge. Then to our great disappointment we did not hear the + hounds. Mounting we rode along the crest of this wooded ridge + toward the western end, which was considerably higher. Once on a + bare patch of ground we saw where the grizzly had passed. The + big, round tracks, toeing in a little, made a chill go over me. + No doubt of its being a silvertip!</p> + + <p>We climbed and rode to the high point, and coming out upon the + summit of the mountain we all heard the deep, hoarse baying of + the pack. They were in the canyon down a bare grassy slope and + over a wooded bench at our feet. Teague yelled as he spurred + down. R.C. rode hard in his tracks.</p> + + <p>But my horse was new to this bear chasing. He was mettlesome, + and he did not want to do what I wanted. When I jabbed the spurs + into his flanks he nearly bucked me off. I was looking for a soft + place to light when he quit. Long before I got down that open + slope Teague and R.C. had disappeared. I had to follow their + tracks. This I did at a gallop, but now and then lost the tracks, + and had to haul in to find them. If I could have heard the hounds + from there I would have gone on anyway. But once down in the + jack-pines I could hear neither yell or bay. The pines were + small, close together, and tough. I hurt my hands, scratched my + face, barked my knees. The horse had a habit of suddenly deciding + to go the way he liked instead of the way I guided him, and when + he plunged between saplings too close together to permit us both + to go through, it was exceedingly hard on me. I was worked into a + frenzy. Suppose R.C. should come face to face with that old + grizzly and fail to kill him! That was the reason for my + desperate hurry. I got a crack on the head that nearly blinded + me. My horse grew hot and began to run in every little open + space. He could scarcely be held in. And I, with the blood hot in + me too, did not hold him hard enough.</p> + + <p>It seemed miles across that wooded bench. But at last I + reached another slope. Coming out upon a canyon rim I heard R.C. + and Teague yelling, and I heard the hounds fighting the grizzly. + He was growling and threshing about far below. I had missed the + tracks made by Teague and my brother, and it was necessary to + find them. That slope looked impassable. I rode back along the + rim, then forward. Finally I found where the ground was plowed + deep and here I headed my horse. He had been used to smooth roads + and he could not take these jumps. I went forward on his neck. + But I hung on and spurred him hard. The mad spirit of that chase + had gotten into him too. All the time I could hear the fierce + baying and yelping of the hounds, and occasionally I heard a + savage bawl from the bear. I literally plunged, slid, broke a way + down that mountain slope, riding all the time, before I + discovered the footprints of Teague and R.C. They had walked, + leading their horses. By this time I was so mad I would not get + off. I rode all the way down that steep slope of dense saplings, + loose rock slides and earth, and jumble of splintered cliff. That + he did not break my neck and his own spoke the truth about that + roan horse. Despite his inexperience he was great. We fell over + one bank, but a thicket of aspens saved us from rolling. The + avalanches slid from under us until I imagined that the grizzly + would be scared. Once as I stopped to listen I heard bear and + pack farther down the canyon—heard them above the roar of a + rushing stream. They went on and I lost the sounds of fight. But + R.C.'s clear thrilling call floated up to me. Probably he was + worried about me.</p> + + <p>Then before I realized it I was at the foot of the slope, in a + narrow canyon bed, full of rocks and trees, with the din of + roaring water in my ears. I could hear nothing else. Tracks were + everywhere, and when I came to the first open place I was + thrilled. The grizzly had plunged off a sandy bar into the water, + and there he had fought the hounds. Signs of that battle were + easy to read. I saw where his huge tracks, still wet, led up the + opposite sandy bank.</p> + + <p>Then, down stream, I did my most reckless riding. On level + ground the horse was splendid. Once he leaped clear across the + brook. Every plunge, every turn I expected to bring me upon my + brother and Teague and that fighting pack. More than once I + thought I heard the spang of the .35 and this made me urge the + roan faster and faster.</p> + + <p>The canyon narrowed, the stream-bed deepened. I had to slow + down to get through the trees and rocks. And suddenly I was + overjoyed to ride pell-mell upon R.C. and Teague with half the + panting hounds. The canyon had grown too rough for the horses to + go farther and it would have been useless for us to try on foot. + As I dismounted, so sore and bruised I could hardly stand, old + Jim came limping in to fall into the brook where he lapped and + lapped thirstily. Teague threw up his hands. Old Jim's return + meant an ended chase. The grizzly had eluded the hounds in that + jumble of rocks below.</p> + + <p>"Say, did you meet the bear?" queried Teague, eyeing me in + astonishment and mirth.</p> + + <p>Bloody, dirty, ragged and wringing wet with sweat I must have + been a sight. R.C. however, did not look so very immaculate, and + when I saw he also was lame and scratched and black I felt + better.</p><a name="2HCH0003"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + + <center> + ROPING LIONS IN THE GRAND CANYON + </center> + + <center> + I + </center> + + <p>The Grand Canyon of Arizona is over two hundred miles long, + thirteen wide, and a mile and a half deep; a titanic gorge in + which mountains, tablelands, chasms and cliffs lie half veiled in + purple haze. It is wild and sublime, a thing of wonder, of + mystery; beyond all else a place to grip the heart of a man, to + unleash his daring spirit.</p> + + <p>On April 20th, 1908, after days on the hot desert, my weary + party and pack train reached the summit of Powell's Plateau, the + most isolated, inaccessible and remarkable mesa of any size in + all the canyon country. Cut off from the mainland it appeared + insurmountable; standing aloof from the towers and escarpments, + rugged and bold in outline, its forest covering like a strip of + black velvet, its giant granite walls gold in the sun, it seemed + apart from the world, haunting with its beauty, isolation and + wild promise.</p> + + <p>The members of my party harmoniously fitted the scene. Buffalo + Jones, burly-shouldered, bronze-faced, and grim, proved in his + appearance what a lifetime on the plains could make of a man. + Emett was a Mormon, a massively built grey-bearded son of the + desert; he had lived his life on it; he had conquered it and in + his falcon eyes shone all its fire and freedom. Ranger Jim Owens + had the wiry, supple body and careless, tidy garb of the cowboy, + and the watchful gaze, quiet face and locked lips of the + frontiersman. The fourth member was a Navajo Indian, a + copper-skinned, raven-haired, beady-eyed desert savage.</p> + + <p>I had told Emett to hire some one who could put the horses on + grass in the evening and then find them the next morning. In + northern Arizona this required more than genius. Emett secured + the best trailer of the desert Navajos. Jones hated an Indian; + and Jim, who carried an ounce of lead somewhere in his person, + associated this painful addition to his weight with an unfriendly + Apache, and swore all Indians should be dead. So between the two, + Emett and I had trouble in keeping our Navajo from illustrating + the plainsman idea of a really good Indian—a dead one.</p> + + <p>While we were pitching camp among magnificent pine trees, and + above a hollow where a heavy bank of snow still lay, a sodden + pounding in the turf attracted our attention.</p> + + <p>"Hold the horses!" yelled Emett.</p> + + <p>As we all made a dive among our snorting and plunging horses + the sound seemed to be coming right into camp. In a moment I saw + a string of wild horses thundering by. A noble black stallion led + them, and as he ran with beautiful stride he curved his fine head + backward to look at us, and whistled his wild challenge.</p> + + <p>Later a herd of large white-tailed deer trooped up the hollow. + The Navajo grew much excited and wanted me to shoot, and when + Emett told him we had not come out to kill, he looked + dumbfounded. Even the Indian felt it a strange departure from the + usual mode of hunting to travel and climb hundreds of miles over + hot desert and rock-ribbed canyons, to camp at last in a spot so + wild that deer were tame as cattle, and then not kill.</p> + + <p>Nothing could have pleased me better, incident to the settling + into permanent camp. The wild horses and tame deer added the + all-satisfying touch to the background of forest, flowers and + mighty pines and sunlit patches of grass, the white tents and red + blankets, the sleeping hounds and blazing fire-logs all making a + picture like that of a hunter's dream.</p> + + <p>"Come, saddle up," called the never restful Jones. "Leave the + Indian in camp with the hounds, and we'll get the lay of the + land." All afternoon we spent riding the plateau. What a + wonderful place! We were completely bewildered with its physical + properties, and surprised at the abundance of wild horses and + mustangs, deer, coyotes, foxes, grouse and other birds, and + overjoyed to find innumerable lion trails. When we returned to + camp I drew a rough map, which Jones laid flat on the ground as + he called us around him.</p> + + <p>"Now, boys, let's get our heads together."</p> + + <p>In shape the plateau resembled the ace of clubs. The center + and side wings were high and well wooded with heavy pines; the + middle wing was longest, sloped west, had no pine, but a dense + growth of cedar. Numerous ridges and canyons cut up this central + wing. Middle Canyon, the longest and deepest, bisected the + plateau, headed near camp, and ran parallel with two smaller + ones, which we named Right and Left Canyons. These three were + lion runways and hundreds of deer carcasses lined the thickets. + North Hollow was the only depression, as well as runway, on the + northwest rim. West Point formed the extreme western cape of the + plateau. To the left of West Point was a deep cut-in of the rim + wall, called the Bay. The three important canyons opened into it. + From the Bay, the south rim was regular and impassable all the + way round to the narrow Saddle, which connected it to the + mainland.</p> + + <p>"Now then," said Jones, when we assured him that we were + pretty well informed as to the important features, "you can + readily see our advantage. The plateau is about nine or ten miles + long, and six wide at its widest. We can't get lost, at least for + long. We know where lions can go over the rim and we'll head them + off, make short cut chases, something new in lion hunting. We are + positive the lions can not get over the second wall, except where + we came up, at the Saddle. In regard to lion signs, I'm doubtful + of the evidence of my own eyes. This is virgin ground. No white + man or Indian has ever hunted lions here. We have stumbled on a + lion home, the breeding place of hundreds of lions that infest + the north rim of the canyon."</p> + + <p>The old plainsman struck a big fist into the palm of his hand, + a rare action with him. Jim lifted his broad hat and ran his + fingers through his white hair. In Emett's clear desert-eagle + eyes shown a furtive, anxious look, which yet could not + overshadow the smouldering fire.</p> + + <p>"If only we don't kill the horses!" he said.</p> + + <p>More than anything else that remark from such a man thrilled + me with its subtle suggestion. He loved those beautiful horses. + What wild rides he saw in his mind's eye! In cold calculation we + perceived the wonderful possibilities never before experienced by + hunters, and as the wild spell clutched us my last bar of + restraint let down.</p> + + <p>During supper we talked incessantly, and afterward around the + camp-fire. Twilight fell with the dark shadows sweeping under the + silent pines; the night wind rose and began its moan.</p> + + <p>"Shore there's some scent on the wind," said Jim, lighting his + pipe with a red ember. "See how uneasy Don is."</p> + + <p>The hound raised his fine, dark head and repeatedly sniffed + the air, then walked to and fro as if on guard for his pack. Moze + ground his teeth on a bone and growled at one of the pups. + Sounder was sleepy, but he watched Don with suspicious eyes. The + other hounds, mature and somber, lay stretched before the + fire.</p> + + <p>"Tie them up, Jim," said Jones, "and let's turn in."</p> + + <center> + II + </center> + + <p>When I awakened next morning the sound of Emett's axe rang out + sharply. Little streaks of light from the camp-fire played + between the flaps of the tent. I saw old Moze get up and stretch + himself. A jangle of cow-bells from the forest told me we would + not have to wait for the horses that morning.</p> + + <p>"The Injun's all right," Jones remarked to Emett.</p> + + <p>"All rustle for breakfast," called Jim.</p> + + <p>We ate in the semi-darkness with the gray shadow ever + brightening. Dawn broke as we saddled our horses. The pups were + limber, and ran to and fro on their chains, scenting the air; the + older hounds stood quietly waiting.</p> + + <p>"Come Navvy—come chase cougie," said Emett.</p> + + <p>"Dam! No!" replied the Indian.</p> + + <p>"Let him keep camp," suggested Jim.</p> + + <p>"All right; but he'll eat us out," Emett declared.</p> + + <p>"Climb up you fellows," said Jones, impatiently. "Have I got + everything—rope, chains, collars, wire, nippers? Yes, all + right. Hyar, you lazy dogs—out of this!"</p> + + <p>We rode abreast down the ridge. The demeanor of the hounds + contrasted sharply with what it had been at the start of the hunt + the year before. Then they had been eager, uncertain, violent; + they did not know what was in the air; now they filed after Don + in an orderly trot.</p> + + <p>We struck out of the pines at half past five. Floating mist + hid the lower end of the plateau. The morning had a cool touch + but there was no frost. Crossing Middle Canyon about half way + down we jogged on. Cedar trees began to show bright green against + the soft gray sage. We were nearing the dark line of the cedar + forest when Jim, who led, held up his hand in a warning check. We + closed in around him.</p> + + <p>"Watch Don," he said.</p> + + <p>The hound stood stiff, head well up, nose working, and the + hair on his back bristling. All the other hounds whined and kept + close to him.</p> + + <p>"Don scents a lion," whispered Jim. "I've never known him to + do that unless there was the scent of a lion on the wind."</p> + + <p>"Hunt 'em up Don, old boy," called Jones.</p> + + <p>The pack commenced to work back and forth along the ridge. We + neared a hollow when Don barked eagerly. Sounder answered and + likewise Jude. Moze's short angry "bow-wow" showed the old + gladiator to be in line.</p> + + <p>"Ranger's gone," cried Jim. "He was farthest ahead. I'll bet + he's struck it. We'll know in a minute, for we're close."</p> + + <p>The hounds were tearing through the sage, working harder and + harder, calling and answering one another, all the time getting + down into the hollow.</p> + + <p>Don suddenly let out a string of yelps. I saw him, running + head up, pass into the cedars like a yellow dart. Sounder howled + his deep, full bay, and led the rest of the pack up the slope in + angry clamor.</p> + + <p>"They're off!" yelled Jim, and so were we.</p> + + <p>In less than a minute we had lost one another. Crashings among + the dry cedars, thud of hoofs and yells kept me going in one + direction. The fiery burst of the hounds had surprised me. I + remembered that Jim had said Emett and his charger might keep the + pack in sight, but that none of the rest of us could.</p> + + <p>It did not take me long to realize what my mustang was made + of. His name was Foxie, which suited him well. He carried me at a + fast pace on the trail of some one; and he seemed to know that by + keeping in this trail part of the work of breaking through the + brush was already done for him. Nevertheless, the sharp dead + branches, more numerous in a cedar forest than elsewhere, struck + and stung us as we passed. We climbed a ridge, and found the + cedars thinning out into open patches. Then we faced a bare slope + of sage and I saw Emett below on his big horse.</p> + + <p>Foxie bolted down this slope, hurdling the bunches of sage, + and showing the speed of which Emett had boasted. The open + ground, with its brush, rock and gullies, was easy going for the + little mustang. I heard nothing save the wind singing in my ears. + Emett's trail, plain in the yellow ground showed me the way. On + entering the cedars again I pulled Foxie in and stopped twice to + yell "waa-hoo!" I heard the baying of the hounds, but no answer + to my signal. Then I attended to the stern business of catching + up. For what seemed a long time, I threaded the maze of cedar, + galloped the open sage flats, always on Emett's track.</p> + + <p>A signal cry, sharp to the right, turned me. I answered, and + with the exchange of signal cries found my way into an open glade + where Jones and Jim awaited me.</p> + + <p>"Here's one," said Jim. "Emett must be with the hounds. + Listen."</p> + + <p>With the labored breathing of the horses filling our ears we + could hear no other sound. Dismounting, I went aside and turned + my ear to the breeze.</p> + + <p>"I hear Don," I cried instantly.</p> + + <p>"Which way?" both men asked.</p> + + <p>"West."</p> + + <p>"Strange," said Jones. "The hound wouldn't split, would he, + Jim?"</p> + + <p>"Don leave that hot trail? Shore he wouldn't," replied Jim. + "But his runnin' do seem queer this morning."</p> + + <p>"The breeze is freshening," I said. "There! Now listen! Don, + and Sounder, too."</p> + + <p>The baying came closer and closer. Our horses threw up long + ears. It was hard to sit still and wait. At a quick cry from Jim + we saw Don cross the lower end of the flat.</p> + + <p>No need to spur our mounts! The lifting of bridles served, and + away we raced. Foxie passed the others in short order. Don had + long disappeared, but with blended bays, Jude, Moze, and Sounder + broke out of the cedars hot on the trail. They, too, were out of + sight in a moment.</p> + + <p>The crash of breaking brush and thunder of hoofs from where + the hounds had come out of the forest, attracted and even + frightened me. I saw the green of a low cedar tree shake, and + split, to let out a huge, gaunt horse with a big man doubled over + his saddle. The onslaught of Emett and his desert charger stirred + a fear in me that checked admiration.</p> + + <p>"Hounds running wild," he yelled, and the dark shadows of the + cedars claimed him again.</p> + + <p>A hundred yards within the forest we came again upon Emett, + dismounted, searching the ground. Moze and Sounder were with him, + apparently at fault. Suddenly Moze left the little glade and + venting his sullen, quick bark, disappeared under the trees. + Sounder sat on his haunches and yelped.</p> + + <p>"Now what the hell is wrong?" growled Jones tumbling off his + saddle.</p> + + <p>"Shore something is," said Jim, also dismounting.</p> + + <p>"Here's a lion track," interposed Emett.</p> + + <p>"Ha! and here's another," cried Jones, in great satisfaction. + "That's the trail we were on, and here's another crossing it at + right angles. Both are fresh: one isn't fifteen minutes old. Don + and Jude have split one way and Moze another. By George! that's + great of Sounder to hang fire!"</p> + + <p>"Put him on the fresh trail," said Jim, vaulting into his + saddle.</p> + + <p>Jones complied, with the result that we saw Sounder start off + on the trail Moze had taken. All of us got in some pretty hard + riding, and managed to stay within earshot of Sounder. We crossed + a canyon, and presently reached another which, from its depth, + must have been Middle Canyon. Sounder did not climb the opposite + slope, so we followed the rim. From a bare ridge we distinguished + the line of pines above us, and decided that our location was in + about the center of the plateau.</p> + + <p>Very little time elapsed before we heard Moze. Sounder had + caught up with him. We came to a halt where the canyon widened + and was not so deep, with cliffs and cedars opposite us, and an + easy slope leading down. Sounder bayed incessantly; Moze emitted + harsh, eager howls, and both hounds, in plain sight, began + working in circles.</p> + + <p>"The lion has gone up somewhere," cried Jim. "Look sharp!"</p> + + <p>Repeatedly Moze worked to the edge of a low wall of stone and + looked over; then he barked and ran back to the slope, only to + return. When I saw him slide down a steep place, make for the + bottom of the stone wall, and jump into the low branches of a + cedar I knew where to look. Then I descried the lion a round + yellow ball, cunningly curled up in a mass of dark branches. He + had leaped into the tree from the wall.</p> + + <p>"There he is! Treed! Treed!" I yelled. "Moze has found + him."</p> + + <p>"Down boys, down into the canyon," shouted Jones, in sharp + voice. "Make a racket, we don't want him to jump."</p> + + <p>How he and Jim and Emett rolled and cracked the stone! For a + moment I could not get off my horse; I was chained to my saddle + by a strange vacillation that could have been no other thing than + fear.</p> + + <p>"Are you afraid?" called Jones from below.</p> + + <p>"Yes, but I am coming," I replied, and dismounted to plunge + down the hill. It may have been shame or anger that dominated me + then; whatever it was I made directly for the cedar, and did not + halt until I was under the snarling lion.</p> + + <p>"Not too close!" warned Jones. "He might jump. It's a Tom, a + two-year-old, and full of fight."</p> + + <p>It did not matter to me then whether he jumped or not. I knew + I had to be cured of my dread, and the sooner it was done the + better.</p> + + <p>Old Moze had already climbed a third of the distance up to the + lion.</p> + + <p>"Hyar Moze! Out of there, you rascal coon chaser!" Jones + yelled as he threw stones and sticks at the hound. Moze, however, + replied with his snarly bark and climbed on steadily.</p> + + <p>"I've got to pull him out. Watch close boys and tell me if the + lion starts down."</p> + + <p>When Jones climbed the first few branches of the tree, Tom let + out an ominous growl.</p> + + <p>"Make ready to jump. Shore he's comin'," called Jim.</p> + + <p>The lion, snarling viciously, started to descend. It was a + ticklish moment for all of us, particularly Jones. Warily he + backed down.</p> + + <p>"Boys, maybe he's bluffing," said Jones, "Try him out. Grab + sticks and run at the tree and yell, as if you were going to kill + him."</p> + + <p>Not improbably the demonstration we executed under the tree + would have frightened even an African lion. Tom hesitated, showed + his white fangs, returned to his first perch, and from there + climbed as far as he could. The forked branch on which he stood + swayed alarmingly.</p> + + <p>"Here, punch Moze out," said Jim handing up a long pole.</p> + + <p>The old hound hung like a leech to the tree, making it + difficult to dislodge him. At length he fell heavily, and venting + his thick battle cry, attempted to climb again.</p> + + <p>Jim seized him, made him fast to the rope with which Sounder + had already been tied.</p> + + <p>"Say Emett, I've no chance here," called Jones. "You try to + throw at him from the rock."</p> + + <p>Emett ran up the rock, coiled his lasso and cast the noose. It + sailed perfectly in between the branches and circled Tom's head. + Before it could be slipped tight he had thrown it off. Then he + hid behind the branches.</p> + + <p>"I'm going farther up," said Jones.</p> + + <p>"Be quick," yelled Jim.</p> + + <p>Jones evidently had that in mind. When he reached the middle + fork of the cedar, he stood erect and extended the noose of his + lasso on the point of his pole. Tom, with a hiss and snap, struck + at it savagely. The second trial tempted the lion to saw the rope + with his teeth. In a flash Jones withdrew the pole, and lifted a + loop of the slack rope over the lion's ears.</p> + + <p>"Pull!" he yelled.</p> + + <p>Emett, at the other end of the lasso, threw his great strength + into action, pulling the lion out with a crash, and giving the + cedar such a tremendous shaking that Jones lost his footing and + fell heavily.</p> + + <p>Thrilling as the moment was, I had to laugh, for Jones came up + out of a cloud of dust, as angry as a wet hornet, and made + prodigious leaps to get out of the reach of the whirling + lion.</p> + + <p>"Look out!" he bawled.</p> + + <p>Tom, certainly none the worse for his tumble, made three + leaps, two at Jones, one at Jim, which was checked by the short + length of the rope in Emett's hands. Then for a moment, a thick + cloud of dust enveloped the wrestling lion, during which the + quick-witted Jones tied the free end of the lasso to a + sapling.</p> + + <p>"Dod gast the luck!" yelled Jones reaching for another lasso. + "I didn't mean for you to pull him out of the tree. Now he'll get + loose or kill himself."</p> + + <p>When the dust cleared away, we discovered our prize stretched + out at full length and frothing at the mouth. As Jones + approached, the lion began a series of evolutions so rapid as to + be almost indiscernible to the eye. I saw a wheel of dust and + yellow fur. Then came a thud and the lion lay inert.</p> + + <p>Jones pounced upon him and loosed the lasso around his + neck.</p> + + <p>"I think he's done for, but maybe not. He's breathing yet. + Here, help me tie his paws together. Look out! He's coming + to!"</p> + + <p>The lion stirred and raised his head. Jones ran the loop of + the second lasso around the two hind paws and stretched the lion + out. While in this helpless position and with no strength and + hardly any breath left in him the lion was easy to handle. With + Emett's help Jones quickly clipped the sharp claws, tied the four + paws together, took off the neck lasso and substituted a collar + and chain.</p> + + <p>"There, that's one. He'll come to all right," said Jones. "But + we are lucky. Emett, never pull another lion clear out of a tree. + Pull him over a limb and hang him there while some one below + ropes his hind paws. That's the only way, and if we don't stick + to it, somebody is going to get done for. Come, now, we'll leave + this fellow here and hunt up Don and Jude. They've treed another + lion by this time."</p> + + <p>Remarkable to me was to see how, as soon as the lion lay + helpless, Sounder lost his interest. Moze growled, yet readily + left the spot. Before we reached the level, both hounds had + disappeared.</p><a name="image-0023"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg019_m.jpg" width="448" height="676" alt= + "Down the Shinumo Trail of The North River "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0024"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg020_m.jpg" width="745" height="448" alt= + "Camp at the Saddle "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>"Hear that?" yelled Jones, digging spurs into his horse. "Hi! + Hi! Hi!"</p> + + <p>From the cedars rang the thrilling, blending chorus of bays + that told of a treed lion. The forest was almost impenetrable. We + had to pick our way. Emett forged ahead; we heard him smashing + the deadwood; and soon a yell proclaimed the truth of Jones' + assertion.</p> + + <p>First I saw the men looking upward; then Moze climbing the + cedar, and the other hounds with noses skyward; and last, in the + dead top of the tree, a dark blot against the blue, a big tawny + lion.</p> + + <p>"Whoop!" The yell leaped past my lips. Quiet Jim was yelling; + and Emett, silent man of the desert, let from his wide cavernous + chest a booming roar that drowned ours.</p> + + <p>Jones' next decisive action turned us from exultation to the + grim business of the thing. He pulled Moze out of the cedar, and + while he climbed up, Emett ran his rope under the collars of all + of the hounds. Quick as the idea flashed over me I leaped into + the cedar adjoining the one Jones was in, and went up hand over + hand. A few pulls brought me to the top, and then my blood ran + hot and quick, for I was level with the lion, too close for + comfort, but in excellent position for taking pictures.</p> + + <p>The lion, not heeding me, peered down at Jones, between + widespread paws. I could hear nothing except the hounds. Jones' + gray hat came pushing up between the dead snags; then his burly + shoulders. The quivering muscles of the lion gathered tense, and + his lithe body crouched low on the branches. He was about to + jump. His open dripping jaws, his wild eyes, roving in terror for + some means of escape, his tufted tail, swinging against the twigs + and breaking them, manifested his extremity. The eager hounds + waited below, howling, leaping.</p> + + <p>It bothered me considerably to keep my balance, regulate my + camera and watch the proceedings. Jones climbed on with his rope + between his teeth, and a long stick. The very next instant it + seemed to me, I heard the cracking of branches and saw the lion + biting hard at the noose which circled his neck.</p> + + <p>Here I swung down, branch to branch, and dropped to the + ground, for I wanted to see what went on below. Above the howls + and yelps, I distinguished Jones' yell. Emett ran directly under + the lion with a spread noose in his hands. Jones pulled and + pulled, but the lion held on firmly. Throwing the end of the + lasso down to Jim, Jones yelled again, and then they both pulled. + The lion was too strong. Suddenly, however, the branch broke, + letting the lion fall, kicking frantically with all four paws. + Emett grasped one of the four whipping paws, and even as the + powerful animal sent him staggering he dexterously left the noose + fast on the paw. Jim and Jones in unison let go of their lasso, + which streaked up through the branches as the lion fell, and then + it dropped to the ground, where Jim made a flying grab for it. + Jones plunging out of the tree fell upon the rope at the same + instant.</p> + + <p>If the action up to then had been fast, it was slow to what + followed. It seemed impossible for two strong men with one lasso, + and a giant with another, to straighten out that lion. He was all + over the little space under the trees at once. The dust flew, the + sticks snapped, the gravel pattered like shot against the cedars. + Jones ploughed the ground flat on his stomach, holding on with + one hand, with the other trying to fasten the rope to something; + Jim went to his knees; and on the other side of the lion, Emett's + huge bulk tipped a sharp angle, and then fell.</p> + + <p>I shouted and ran forward, having no idea what to do, but + Emett rolled backward, at the same instant the other men got a + strong haul on the lion. Short as that moment was in which the + lasso slackened, it sufficed for Jones to make the rope fast to a + tree. Whereupon with the three men pulling on the other side of + the leaping lion, somehow I had flashed into my mind the game + that children play, called skipping the rope, for the lion and + lasso shot up and down.</p> + + <p>This lasted for only a few seconds. They stretched the beast + from tree to tree, and Jones running with the third lasso, made + fast the front paws.</p> + + <p>"It's a female," said Jones, as the lion lay helpless, her + sides swelling; "a good-sized female. She's nearly eight feet + from tip to tip, but not very heavy. Hand me another rope."</p> + + <p>When all four lassos had been stretched, the lioness could not + move. Jones strapped a collar around her neck and clipped the + sharp yellow claws.</p> + + <p>"Now to muzzle her," he continued.</p> + + <p>Jones' method of performing this most hazardous part of the + work was characteristic of him. He thrust a stick between her + open jaws, and when she crushed it to splinters he tried another, + and yet another, until he found one that she could not break. + Then while she bit on it, he placed a wire loop over her nose, + slowly tightening it, leaving the stick back of her big + canines.</p> + + <p>The hounds ceased their yelping and when untied, Sounder + wagged his tail as if to say, "Well done," and then lay down; Don + walked within three feet of the lion, as if she were now beneath + his dignity; Jude began to nurse and lick her sore paw; only Moze + the incorrigible retained antipathy for the captive, and he + growled, as always, low and deep. And on the moment, Ranger, + dusty and lame from travel, trotted wearily into the glade and, + looking at the lioness, gave one disgusted bark and flopped + down.</p> + + <center> + III + </center> + + <p>Transporting our captives to camp bade fair to make us work. + When Jones, who had gone after the pack horses, hove in sight on + the sage flat, it was plain to us that we were in for trouble. + The bay stallion was on the rampage.</p> + + <p>"Why didn't you fetch the Indian?" growled Emett, who lost his + temper when matters concerning his horses went wrong. "Spread + out, boys, and head him off."</p> + + <p>We contrived to surround the stallion, and Emett succeeded in + getting a halter on him.</p> + + <p>"I didn't want the bay," explained Jones, "but I couldn't + drive the others without him. When I told that redskin that we + had two lions, he ran off into the woods, so I had to come + alone."</p> + + <p>"I'm going to scalp the Navajo," said Jim, complacently.</p> + + <p>These remarks were exchanged on the open ridge at the entrance + to the thick cedar forest. The two lions lay just within its + shady precincts. Emett and I, using a long pole in lieu of a + horse, had carried Tom up from the Canyon to where we had + captured the lioness.</p> + + <p>Jones had brought a packsaddle and two panniers.</p><a name= + "image-0025"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg021_m.jpg" width="448" height="705" alt= + "Buckskin Forest "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0026"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg022_m.jpg" width="448" height="682" alt= + "Buffalo Jones With Sounder and Ranger "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>When Emett essayed to lead the horse which carried these, the + animal stood straight up and began to show some of his primal + desert instincts. It certainly was good luck that we unbuckled + the packsaddle straps before he left the vicinity. In about three + jumps he had separated himself from the panniers, which were then + placed upon the back of another horse. This one, a fine looking + beast, and amiable under surroundings where his life and health + were considered even a little, immediately disclaimed any + intention of entering the forest.</p> + + <p>"They scent the lions," said Jones. "I was afraid of it; never + had but one nag that would pack lions."</p> + + <p>"Maybe we can't pack them at all," replied Emett dubiously. + "It's certainly new to me."</p> + + <p>"We've got to," Jones asserted; "try the sorrel."</p> + + <p>For the first time in a serviceable and honorable life, + according to Emett, the sorrel broke his halter and kicked like a + plantation mule.</p> + + <p>"It's a matter of fright. Try the stallion. He doesn't look + afraid," said Jones, who never knew when he was beaten.</p> + + <p>Emett gazed at Jones as if he had not heard right.</p> + + <p>"Go ahead, try the stallion. I like the way he looks."</p> + + <p>No wonder! The big stallion looked a king of horses—just + what he would have been if Emett had not taken him, when a colt, + from his wild desert brothers. He scented the lions, and he held + his proud head up, his ears erect, and his large, dark eyes shone + fiery and expressive.</p> + + <p>"I'll try to lead him in and let him see the lions. We can't + fool him," said Emett.</p> + + <p>Marc showed no hesitation, nor anything we expected. He stood + stiff-legged, and looked as if he wanted to fight.</p> + + <p>"He's all right; he'll pack them," declared Jones.</p> + + <p>The packsaddle being strapped on and the panniers hooked to + the horns, Jones and Jim lifted Tom and shoved him down into the + left pannier while Emett held the horse. A madder lion than Tom + never lived. It was cruel enough to be lassoed and disgrace + enough to be "hog-tied," as Jim called it, but to be thrust down + into a bag and packed on a horse was adding insult to injury. Tom + frothed at the mouth and seemed like a fizzing torpedo about to + explode. The lioness being considerably longer and larger, was + with difficulty gotten into the other pannier, and her head and + paws hung out. Both lions kept growling and snarling.</p> + + <p>"I look to see Marc bolt over the rim," said Emett, + resignedly, as Jones took up the end of the rope halter.</p> + + <p>"No siree!" sang out that worthy. "He's helping us out; he's + proud to show up the other nags."</p> + + <p>Jones was always asserting strange traits in animals, and + giving them intelligence and reason. As to that, many incidents + coming under my observation while with him, and seen with his + eyes, made me incline to his claims, the fruit of a lifetime with + animals.</p> + + <p>Marc packed the lions to camp in short order, and, quoting + Jones, "without turning a hair." We saw the Navajo's head + protruding from a tree. Emett yelled for him, and Jones and Jim + "hahaed" derisively; whereupon the black head vanished and did + not reappear. Then they unhooked one of the panniers and dumped + out the lioness. Jones fastened her chain to a small pine tree, + and as she lay powerless he pulled out the stick back of her + canines. This allowed the wire muzzle to fall off. She signalled + this freedom with a roar that showed her health to be still + unimpaired. The last action in releasing her from her painful + bonds Jones performed with sleight-of-hand dexterity. He slipped + the loop fastening one paw, which loosened the rope, and in a + twinkling let her work all of her other paws free. Up she sprang, + ears flat, eyes ablaze, mouth wide, once more capable of defense, + true to her instinct and her name.</p> + + <p>Before the men lowered Tom from Marc's back I stepped closer + and put my face within six inches of the lion's. He promptly spat + on me. I had to steel my nerve to keep so close. But I wanted to + see a wild lion's eyes at close range. They were exquisitely + beautiful, their physical properties as wonderful as their + expression. Great half globes of tawny amber, streaked with + delicate wavy lines of black, surrounding pupils of intense + purple fire. Pictures shone and faded in the amber + light—the shaggy tipped plateau, the dark pines and smoky + canyons, the great dotted downward slopes, the yellow cliffs and + crags. Deep in those live pupils, changing, quickening with a + thousand vibrations, quivered the soul of this savage beast, the + wildest of all wild Nature, unquenchable love of life and + freedom, flame of defiance and hate.</p> + + <p>Jones disposed of Tom in the same manner as he had the + lioness, chaining him to an adjoining small pine, where he leaped + and wrestled.</p> + + <p>Presently I saw Emett coming through the woods leading and + dragging the Indian. I felt sorry for the Navvy, for I felt that + his fear was not so much physical as spiritual. And it seemed no + wonder to me that the Navvy should hang back from this + sacrilegious treatment of his god. A natural wisdom, which I had + in common with all human beings who consider self preservation + the first law of life, deterred me from acquainting my august + companions with my belief. At least I did not want to break up + the camp.</p> + + <p>In the remorseless grasp of Emett, forced along, the Navajo + dragged his feet and held his face sidewise, though his dark eyes + gleamed at the lions. Terror predominated among the expressions + of his countenance. Emett drew him within fifteen feet and held + him there, and with voice, and gesticulating of his free hand, + tried to show the poor fellow that the lions would not hurt + him.</p> + + <p>Navvy stared and muttered to himself. Here Jim had some + deviltry in mind, for he edged up closer; but what it was never + transpired, for Emett suddenly pointed to the horses and said to + the Indian:</p> + + <p>"<i>Chineago</i> (feed)."</p> + + <p>It appeared when Navvy swung himself over Marc's broad back, + that our great stallion had laid aside his transiently noble + disposition and was himself again. Marc proceeded to show us how + truly Jim had spoken: "Shore he ain't no use for the redskin." + Before the Indian had fairly gotten astride, Marc dropped his + head, humped his shoulders, brought his feet together and began + to buck. Now the Navajo was a famous breaker of wild mustangs, + but Marc was a tougher proposition than the wildest mustang that + ever romped the desert. Not only was he unusually vigorous; he + was robust and heavy, yet exceedingly active. I had seen him roll + over in the dust three times each way, and do it easily—a + feat Emett declared he had never seen performed by another + horse.</p> + + <p>Navvy began to bounce. He showed his teeth and twisted his + sinewy hands in the horse's mane. Marc began to act like a demon; + he plowed the ground; apparently he bucked five feet straight up. + As the Indian had bounced he now began to shoot into the air. He + rose the last time with his heels over his head, to the full + extent of his arms; and on plunging down his hold broke. He spun + around the horse, then went hurtling to the ground some twenty + feet away. He sat up, and seeing Emett and Jones laughing, and + Jim prostrated with joy, he showed his white teeth in a smile and + said:</p> + + <p>"No bueno dam."</p> + + <p>I think all of us respected Navvy for his good humor, and + especially when he walked up to Marc, and with no show of the + mean Indian, patted the glossy neck and then nimbly remounted. + Marc, not being so difficult to please as Jim in the way of + discomfiting the Navajo, appeared satisfied for the present, and + trotted off down the hollow, with the string of horses ahead, + their bells jingling.</p> + + <p>Camp-fire tasks were a necessary wage in order to earn the + full enjoyment and benefit of the hunting trip; and looking for + some task with which to turn my hand, I helped Jim feed the + hounds. To feed ordinary dogs is a matter of throwing them a + bone; however, our dogs were not ordinary. It took time to feed + them, and a prodigious amount of meat. We had packed between + three and four hundred pounds of wild-horse meat, which had been + cut into small pieces and strung on the branches of a scrub oak + near camp.</p> + + <p>Don, as befitted a gentleman and the leader of the greatest + pack in the West, had to be fed by hand. I believe he would + rather had starved than have demeaned himself by fighting. + Starved he certainly would have, if Jim had thrown meat + indiscriminately to the ground. Sounder asserted his rights and + preferred large portions at a time. Jude begged with great solemn + eyes but was no slouch at eating for all her gentleness. Ranger, + because of imperfectly developed teeth rendering mastication + difficult, had to have his share cut into very small pieces. As + for Moze—well, great dogs have their faults as do great + men—he never got enough meat; he would fight even poor + crippled Jude, and steal even from the pups; when he had gotten + all Jim would give him, and all he could snatch, he would growl + away with bulging sides.</p> + + <p>"How about feeding the lions?" asked Emett.</p> + + <p>"They'll drink to-night," replied Jones, "but won't eat for + days; then we'll tempt them with fresh rabbits."</p> + + <p>We made a hearty meal, succeeding which Jones and I walked + through the woods toward the rim. A yellow promontory, huge and + glistening, invited us westward, and after a detour of half a + mile we reached it. The points of the rim, striking out into the + immense void, always drew me irresistibly. We found the view from + this rock one of startling splendor. The corrugated rim-wall of + the middle wing extended to the west, at this moment apparently + running into the setting sun. The gold glare touching up the + millions of facets of chiseled stone, created color and + brilliance too glorious and intense for the gaze of men. And + looking downward was like looking into the placid, blue, + bottomless depths of the Pacific.</p> + + <p>"Here, help me push off this stone," I said to Jones. We + heaved a huge round stone, and were encouraged to feel it move. + Fortunately we had a little slope; the boulder groaned, rocked + and began to slide. Just as it toppled over I glanced at the + second hand of my watch. Then with eyes over the rim we waited. + The silence was the silence of the canyon, dead and vast, + intensified by our breathless earstrain. Ten long palpitating + seconds and no sound! I gave up. The distance was too great for + sound to reach us. Fifteen + seconds—seventeen—eighteen—</p> + + <p>With that a puff of air seemed to rise, and on it the most + awful bellow of thunderous roar. It rolled up and widened, + deadened to burst out and roll louder, then slowly, like + mountains on wheels, rumbled under the rim-walls, passing on and + on, to roar back in echo from the cliffs of the mesas. Roar and + rumble—roar and rumble! for two long moments the dull and + hollow echoes rolled at us, to die away slowly in the far-distant + canyons.</p> + + <p>"That's a darned deep hole," commented Jones.</p> + + <p>Twilight stole down on us idling there, silent, content to + watch the red glow pass away from the buttes and peaks, the color + deepening downward to meet the ebon shades of night creeping up + like a dark tide.</p> + + <p>On turning toward the camp we essayed a short cut, which + brought us to a deep hollow with stony walls, which seemed better + to go around. The hollow, however, was quite long and we decided + presently to cross it. We descended a little way when Jones + suddenly barred my progress with his big arm.</p> + + <p>"Listen," he whispered.</p> + + <p>It was quiet in the woods; only a faint breeze stirred the + pine needles; and the weird, gray darkness seemed to be + approaching under the trees.</p> + + <p>I heard the patter of light, hard hoofs on the scaly sides of + the hollow.</p> + + <p>"Deer?" I asked my companion in a low voice.</p> + + <p>"Yes; see," he replied, pointing ahead, "just right under that + broken wall of rock; right there on this side; they're going + down."</p> + + <p>I descried gray objects the color of the rocks, moving down + like shadows.</p> + + <p>"Have they scented us?"</p> + + <p>"Hardly; the breeze is against us. Maybe they heard us break a + twig. They've stopped, but they are not looking our way. Now I + wonder—"</p> + + <p>Rattling of stones set into movement by some quick, sharp + action, an indistinct crash, but sudden, as of the impact of + soft, heavy bodies, a strange wild sound preceded in rapid + succession violent brushings and thumpings in the scrub of the + hollow.</p> + + <p>"Lion jumped a deer," yelled Jones. "Right under our eyes! + Come on! Hi! Hi! Hi!"</p> + + <p>He ran down the incline yelling all of the way, and I kept + close to him, adding my yells to his, and gripping my revolver. + Toward the bottom the thicket barred our progress so that we had + to smash through and I came out a little ahead of Jones. And + farther up the hollow I saw a gray swiftly bounding object too + long and too low for a deer, and I hurriedly shot six times at + it.</p> + + <p>"By George! Come here," called my companion. "How's this for + quick work? It's a yearling doe."</p> + + <p>In another moment I leaned over a gray mass huddled at Jones + feet. It was a deer gasping and choking. I plainly heard the + wheeze of blood in its throat, and the sound, like a + death-rattle, affected me powerfully. Bending closer, I saw where + one side of the neck, low down, had been terribly lacerated.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!" pealed down the slope.</p> + + <p>"That's Emett," cried Jones, answering the signal. "If you + have another shot put this doe out of agony."</p> + + <p>But I had not a shot left, nor did either of us have a clasp + knife. We stood there while the doe gasped and quivered. The + peculiar sound, probably made by the intake of air through the + laceration of the throat, on the spur of the moment seemed + pitifully human.</p> + + <p>I felt that the struggle for life and death in any living + thing was a horrible spectacle. With great interest I had studied + natural selection, the variability of animals under different + conditions of struggling existence, the law whereby one animal + struck down and devoured another. But I had never seen and heard + that law enacted on such a scale; and suddenly I abhorred it.</p> + + <p>Emett strode to us through the gathering darkness.</p> + + <p>"What's up?" he asked quickly.</p> + + <p>He carried my Remington in one hand and his Winchester in the + other; and he moved so assuredly and loomed up so big in the dusk + that I experienced a sudden little rush of feeling as to what his + advent might mean at a time of real peril.</p><a name= + "image-0027"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg023_m.jpg" width="448" height="703" alt= + "Jones About to Lasso a Mountain Lion "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0028"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg024_m.jpg" width="448" height="674" alt= + "Remains of a Deer Killed by Lions "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>"Emett, I've lived to see many things," replied Jones, "but + this is the first time I ever saw a lion jump a deer right under + my nose!"</p> + + <p>As Emett bent over to seize the long ears of the deer, I + noticed the gasping had ceased.</p> + + <p>"Neck broken," he said, lifting the head. "Well, I'm danged. + Must have been an all-fired strong lion. He'll come back, you may + be sure of that. Let's skin out the quarters and hang the carcass + up in a tree!"</p> + + <p>We returned to camp in a half an hour, the richer for our walk + by a quantity of fresh venison. Upon being acquainted with our + adventure, Jim expressed himself rather more fairly than was his + customary way.</p> + + <p>"Shore that beats hell! I knowed there was a lion somewheres, + because Don wouldn't lie down. I'd like to get a pop at the + brute."</p> + + <p>I believed Jim's wish found an echo in all our hearts. At any + rate to hear Emett and Jones express regret over the death of the + doe justified in some degree my own feelings, and I thought it + was not so much the death, but the lingering and terrible manner + of it, and especially how vividly it connoted the wild-life drama + of the plateau. The tragedy we had all but interrupted occurred + every night, perhaps often in the day and likely at different + points at the same time. Emett told how he had found fourteen + piles of bleached bones and dried hair in the thickets of less + than a mile of the hollow on which we were encamped.</p> + + <p>"We'll rope the danged cats, boys, or we'll kill them."</p> + + <p>"It's blowing cold. Hey, Navvy, <i>coco! coco!</i>" called + Emett.</p> + + <p>The Indian, carefully laying aside his cigarette, kicked up + the fire and threw on more wood.</p> + + <p>"<i>Discass!</i> (cold)," he said to me. "<i>Coco, bueno</i> + (fire good)."</p> + + <p>I replied, "Me savvy—yes."</p> + + <p>"Sleep-ie?" he asked.</p> + + <p>"Mucha," I returned.</p> + + <p>While we carried on a sort of novel conversation full of + Navajo, English, and gestures, darkness settled down black. I saw + the stars disappear; the wind changing to the north grew colder + and carried a breath of snow. I like north wind best—from + under the warm blankets—because of the roar and lull and + lull and roar in the pines. Crawling into the bed presently, I + lay there and listened to the rising storm-wind for a long time. + Sometimes it swelled and crashed like the sound of a breaker on + the beach, but mostly, from a low incessant moan, it rose and + filled to a mighty rush, then suddenly lulled. This lull, despite + a wakeful, thronging mind, was conducive to sleep.</p> + + <center> + IV + </center> + + <p>To be awaked from pleasant dreams is the lot of man. The + Navajo aroused me with his singing, and when I peeped languidly + from under the flap of my sleeping bag, I felt a cold air and saw + fleecy flakes of white drifting through the small window of my + tent.</p> + + <p>"Snow; by all that's lucky!" I exclaimed, remembering Jones' + hopes. Straightway my langour vanished and getting into my boots + and coat I went outside. Navvy's bed lay in six inches of snow. + The forest was beautifully white. A fine dazzling snow was + falling. I walked to the roaring camp-fire. Jim's biscuits, + well-browned and of generous size, had just been dumped into the + middle of our breakfast cloth, a tarpaulin spread on the ground; + the coffee pot steamed fragrantly, and a Dutch oven sizzled with + a great number of slices of venison. "Did you hear the Indian + chanting?" asked Jones, who sat with his horny hands to the + blaze.</p> + + <p>"I heard his singing."</p> + + <p>"No, it wasn't a song; the Navajo never sings in the morning. + What you heard was his morning prayer, a chant, a religious and + solemn ritual to the break of day. Emett says it is a custom of + the desert tribe. You remember how we saw the Mokis sitting on + the roofs of their little adobe huts in the gray of the morning. + They always greet the sun in that way. The Navajos chant."</p> + + <p>It certainly was worth remembering, I thought, and mentally + observed that I would wake up thereafter and listen to the + Indian.</p> + + <p>"Good luck and bad!" went on Jones. "Snow is what we want, but + now we can't find the scent of our lion of last night."</p> + + <p>Low growls and snarls attracted me. Both our captives + presented sorry spectacles; they were wet, dirty, bedraggled. + Emett had chopped down a small pine, the branches of which he was + using to make shelter for the lions. While I looked on Tom tore + his to pieces several times, but the lioness crawled under hers + and began licking her chops. At length Tom, seeing that Emett + meant no underhand trick, backed out of the drizzling snow and + lay down.</p> + + <p>Emett had already constructed a shack for the hounds. It was a + way of his to think of everything. He had the most extraordinary + ability. A stroke of his axe, a twist of his great hands, a turn + of this or that made camp a more comfortable place. And if + something, no matter what, got out of order or broken, there was + Emett to show what it was to be a man of the desert. It had been + my good fortune to see many able men on the trail and round the + camp-fire, but not one of them even approached Emett's class. + When I said a word to him about his knack with things, his reply + was illuminating: "I'm fifty-eight, and four out of every five + nights of my life I have slept away from home on the ground."</p> + + <p>"<i>Chineago!</i>" called Jim, who had begun with all of us to + assimilate a little of the Navajo's language.</p> + + <p>Whereupon we fell to eating with appetite unknown to any save + hunters. Somehow the Indian had gravitated to me at meal times, + and now he sat cross-legged beside me, holding out his plate and + looking as hungry as Moze. At first he had always asked for the + same kind of food that I happened to have on my own plate. When I + had finished and had no desire to eat more, he gave up his + faculty of imitation and asked for anything he could get. The + Navajo had a marvelous appetite. He liked sweet things, sugar + best of all. It was a fatal error to let him get his hands on a + can of fruit. Although he inspired Jones with disgust and Jim + with worse, he was a source of unfailing pleasure to me. He + called me "Mista Gay" and he pronounced the words haltingly in + low voice and with unmistakable respect.</p> + + <p>"What's on for today?" queried Emett.</p> + + <p>"I guess we may as well hang around camp and rest the hounds," + replied Jones. "I did intend to go after the lion that killed the + deer, but this snow has taken away the scent."</p> + + <p>"Shore it'll stop snowin' soon," said Jim.</p> + + <p>The falling snow had thinned out and looked like flying + powder; the leaden clouds, rolling close to the tree-tops, grew + brighter and brighter; bits of azure sky shone through rifts.</p> + + <p>Navvy had tramped off to find the horses, and not long after + his departure he sent out a prolonged yell that echoed through + the forest.</p> + + <p>"Something's up," said Emett instantly. "An Indian never yells + like that at a horse."</p><a name="image-0029"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg025_m.jpg" width="748" height="448" alt= + "A Lion Tied "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0030"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg026_m.jpg" width="727" height="448" alt= + "Fighting Weetahs (buffalo Bulls) on Buffalo Jones's Desert Ranch"> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We waited quietly for a moment, expecting to hear the yell + repeated. It was not, though we soon heard the jangle of bells, + which told us he had the horses coming. He appeared off to the + right, riding Foxie and racing the others toward camp.</p> + + <p>"Cougie—mucha big—dam!" he said leaping off the + mustang to confront us.</p> + + <p>"Emett, does he mean he saw a cougar or a track?" questioned + Jones.</p> + + <p>"Me savvy," replied the Indian. "<i>Butteen, butteen</i>!"</p> + + <p>"He says, trail—trail," put in Emett. "I guess I'd + better go and see."</p> + + <p>"I'll go with you," said Jones. "Jim, keep the hounds tight + and hurry with the horses' oats."</p> + + <p>We followed the tracks of the horses which lead southwest + toward the rim, and a quarter of a mile from camp we crossed a + lion trail running at right angles with our direction.</p> + + <p>"Old Sultan!" I cried, breathlessly, recognizing that the + tracks had been made by a giant lion we had named Sultan. They + were huge, round, and deep, and with my spread hand I could not + reach across one of them.</p> + + <p>Without a word, Jones strode off on the trail. It headed east + and after a short distance turned toward camp. I suppose Jones + knew what the lion had been about, but to Emett and me it was + mystifying. Two hundred yards from camp we came to a fallen pine, + the body of which was easily six feet high. On the side of this + log, almost on top, were two enormous lion tracks, imprinted in + the mantle of snow. From here the trail led off northeast.</p> + + <p>"Darn me!" ejaculated Jones. "The big critter came right into + camp; he scented our lions, and raised up on this log to look + over."</p> + + <p>Wheeling, he started for camp on the trot. Emett and I kept + even with him. Words were superfluous. We knew what was coming. A + made—to—order lion trail could not have equalled the + one right in the back yard of our camp.</p> + + <p>"Saddle up!" said Jones, with the sharp inflection of words + that had come to thrill me. "Jim, Old Sultan has taken a look at + us since break of day."</p> + + <p>I got into my chaps, rammed my little automatic into its + saddle holster and mounted. Foxie seemed to want to go. The + hounds came out of their sheds and yawned, looking at us + knowingly. Emett spoke a word to the Navajo, and then we were + trotting down through the forest. The sun had broken out warm, + causing water to drip off the snow laden pines. The three of us + rode close behind Jones, who spoke low and sternly to the + hounds.</p> + + <p>What an opportunity to watch Don! I wondered how soon he would + catch the scent of the trail. He led the pack as usual and kept + to a leisurely dog—trot. When within twenty yards of the + fallen log, he stopped for an instant and held up his head, + though without exhibiting any suspicion or uneasiness.</p> + + <p>The wind blew strong at our backs, a circumstance that + probably kept Don so long in ignorance of the trail. A few yards + further on, however, he stopped and raised his fine head. He + lowered it and trotted on only to stop again. His easy air of + satisfaction with the morning suddenly vanished. His savage + hunting instinct awakened through some channel to raise the short + yellow hair on his neck and shoulders and make it stand stiff. He + stood undecided with warily shifting nose, then jumped forward + with a yelp. Another jump brought another sharp cry from him. + Sounder, close behind, echoed the yelp. Jude began to whine. Then + Don, with a wild howl, leaped ten feet to alight on the lion + trail and to break into wonderfully rapid flight. The seven other + hounds, bunched in a black and yellow group, tore after him + filling the forest with their wild uproar.</p> + + <p>Emett's horse bounded as I have seen a great racer leave the + post, and his desert brothers, loving wild bursts of speed, + needing no spur, kept their noses even with his flanks. The soft + snow, not too deep, rather facilitated than impeded this wild + movement, and the open forest was like a highway.</p> + + <p>So we rode, bending low in the saddle, keen eyes alert for + branches, vaulting the white—blanketed logs, and swerving + as we split to pass the pines. The mist from the melting snow + moistened our faces, and the rushing air cooled them with fresh, + soft sensation. There were moments when we rode abreast and + others when we sailed single file, with white ground receding, + vanishing behind us.</p> + + <p>My feeling was one of glorious excitation in the swift, smooth + flight and a grim assurance of soon seeing the old lion. But I + hoped we would not rout him too soon from under a windfall, or a + thicket where he had dragged a deer, because the race was too + splendid a thing to cut short. Through my mind whirled with + inconceivable rapidity the great lion chases on which we had + ridden the year before. And this was another chase, only more + stirring, more beautiful, because it was the nature of the thing + to grow always with experience.</p> + + <p>Don slipped out of sight among the pines. The others strung + along the trail, glinted across the sunlit patches. The black pup + was neck and neck with Ranger. Sounder ran at their heels, + leading the other pups. Moze dashed on doggedly ahead of + Jude.</p> + + <p>But for us to keep to the open forest, close to the hounds, + was not in the nature of a lion chase. Old Sultan's trail turned + due west when he began to go down the little hollows and their + intervening ridges. We lost ground. The pack left us behind. The + slope of the plateau became decided. We rode out of the pines to + find the snow failing in the open. Water ran in little gullies + and glistened on the sagebrush. A half mile further down the snow + had gone. We came upon the hounds running at fault, except + Sounder, and he had given up.</p> + + <p>"All over," sang out Jones, turning his horse. "The lion's + track and his scent have gone with the snow. I reckon we'll do as + well to wait until to-morrow. He's down in the middle wing + somewhere and it is my idea we might catch his trail as he comes + back."</p> + + <p>The sudden dashing aside of our hopes was exasperating. There + seemed no help for it; abrupt ending to exciting chases were but + features of the lion hunt. The warm sun had been hours on the + lower end of the plateau, where the snow never lay long; and even + if we found a fresh morning trail in the sand, the heat would + have burned out the scent.</p> + + <p>So rapidly did the snow thaw that by the time we reached camp + only the shady patches were left.</p> + + <p>It was almost eleven o'clock when I lay down on my bed to rest + awhile and fell asleep. The tramp of a horse awakened me. I heard + Jim calling Jones. Thinking it was time to eat I went out. The + snow had all disappeared and the forest was brown as ever. Jim + sat on his horse and Navvy appeared riding up to the hollow, + leading the saddle horses.</p> + + <p>"Jones, get out," called Jim.</p> + + <p>"Can't you let a fellow sleep? I'm not hungry," replied Jones + testily.</p> + + <p>"Get out and saddle up," continued Jim.</p> + + <p>Jones burst out of his tent, with rumpled hair and sleepy + eyes.</p> + + <p>"I went over to see the carcass of the deer an' found a lion + sittin' up in the tree, feedin' for all he was worth. Pie jumped + out an' ran up the hollow an' over the rim. So I rustled back for + you fellows. Lively now, we'll get this one sure."</p> + + <p>"Was it the big fellow?" I asked</p> + + <p>"No, but he ain't no kitten; an' he's a fine color, sort of + reddish. I never seen one just as bright. Where's Emett?"</p> + + <p>"I don't know. He was here a little while ago. Shall I signal + for him?"</p> + + <p>"Don't yell," cried Jones holding up his fingers. "Be quiet + now."</p> + + <p>Without another word we finished saddling, mounted and, close + together, with the hounds in front, rode through the forest + toward the rim.</p> + + <center> + V + </center> + + <p>We rode in different directions toward the hollow, the better + to chance meeting with Emett, but none of us caught a glimpse of + him.</p> + + <p>It happened that when we headed into the hollow it was at a + point just above where the deer carcass hung in the scrub oak. + Don in spite of Jones' stern yells, let out his eager hunting + yelp and darted down the slope. The pack bolted after him and in + less than ten seconds were racing up the hollow, their thrilling, + blending bays a welcome spur to action. Though I spoke not a word + to my mustang nor had time to raise the bridle, he wheeled to one + side and began to run. The other horses also kept to the ridge, + as I could tell by the pounding of hoofs on the soft turf. The + hounds in full cry right under us urged our good steeds to a + terrific pace. It was well that the ridge afforded clear + going.</p> + + <p>The speed at which we traveled, however, fast as it was, + availed not to keep up with the pack. In a short half mile, just + as the hollow sloped and merged into level ground, they left us + behind and disappeared so quickly as almost to frighten me. My + mustang plunged out of the forest to the rim and dashed along, + apparently unmindful of the chasm. The red and yellow surface + blurred in a blinding glare. I heard the chorus of hounds, but as + its direction baffled me I trusted to my horse and I did well, + for soon he came to a dead halt on the rim.</p> + + <p>Then I heard the hounds below me. I had but time to see the + character of the place—long, yellow promontories running + out and slopes of weathered stone reaching up between to a level + with the rim—when in a dwarf pine growing just over the + edge I caught sight of a long, red, pantherish body.</p> + + <p>I whooped to my followers now close upon me and leaping off + hauled out my Remington and ran to the cliff. The lion's long, + slender body, of a rare golden-red color, bright, clean, + black-tipped and white-bellied, proclaimed it a female of + exceeding beauty. I could have touched her with a fishing rod and + saw how easily she could be roped from where I stood. The tree in + which she had taken refuge grew from the head of a weathered + slope and rose close to the wall. At that point it was merely a + parapet of crumbling yellow rock. No doubt she had lain concealed + under the shelving wall and had not had time to get away before + the hounds were right upon her.</p> + + <p>"She's going to jump," yelled Jones, in my rear, as he + dismounted.</p> + + <p>I saw a golden-red streak flash downward, heard a mad medley + from the hounds, a cloud of dust rose, then something bright + shone for a second to the right along the wall. I ran with all my + might to a headland of rock upon which I scrambled and saw with + joy that I could command the situation.</p> + + <p>The lioness was not in sight, nor were the hounds. The latter, + however, were hot on the trail. I knew the lioness had taken to + another tree or a hole under the wall, and would soon be routed + out. This time I felt sure she would run down and I took a rapid + glance below. The slope inclined at a steep angle and was one + long slide of bits of yellow stone with many bunches of scrub oak + and manzanita. Those latter I saw with satisfaction, because in + case I had to go down they would stop the little avalanches. The + slope reached down perhaps five hundred yards and ended in a + thicket and jumble of rocks from which rose on the right a bare + yellow slide. This ran up to a low cliff. I hoped the lion would + not go that way, for it led to great broken battlements of rim. + Left of the slide was a patch of cedars.</p> + + <p>Jim's yell pealed out, followed by the familiar penetrating + howl of the pack when it sighted game. With that I saw the + lioness leaping down the slope and close behind her a yellow + hound.</p> + + <p>"Go it, Don, old boy!" I yelled, wild with delight.</p> + + <p>A crushing step on the stones told me Jones had arrived.</p> + + <p>"Hi! Hi! Hi!" roared he.</p> + + <p>I thought then that if the lioness did not cover thirty feet + at every jump I was not in a condition to judge distance. She ran + away from Don as if he had been tied and reached the thicket + below a hundred yards ahead of him. And when Don leaving his + brave pack far up the slide entered the thicket the lioness came + out on the other side and bounded up the bare slope of yellow + shale.</p> + + <p>"Shoot ahead of her! Head her off! Turn her back!" cried + Jones.</p> + + <p>With the word I threw forward the Remington and let drive. + Following the bellow of the rifle, so loud in that thin air, a + sharp, harsh report cracked up from below. A puff of yellow dust + rose in front of the lioness. I was in line, but too far ahead. I + fired again. The steel jacketed bullet hit a stone and spitefully + whined away into the canyon. I tried once more. This time I + struck close to the lioness. Disconcerted by a cloud of dust + rising before her very eyes she wheeled and ran back.</p> + + <p>We had forgotten Don and suddenly he darted out of the + thicket, straight up the slide. Always, in every chase, we were + afraid the great hound would run to meet his death. We knew it + was coming sometime. When the lioness saw him and stopped, both + Jones and I felt that this was to be the end of Don.</p> + + <p>"Shoot her! Shoot her!" cried Jones. "She'll kill him! She'll + kill him!"</p> + + <p>As I knelt on the rock I had a hard contraction of my throat, + and then all my muscles set tight and rigid. I pulled the trigger + of my automatic once, twice. It was wonderful how closely the two + bullets followed each other, as we could tell by the almost + simultaneous puffs of dust rising from under the beast's nose. + She must have been showered and stung with gravel, for she + bounded off to the left and disappeared in the cedars. I had + missed, but the shots had served to a better end than if I had + killed her.</p> + + <p>As Don raced up the ground where a moment before a battle and + probably death had awaited him, the other hounds burst from the + thicket. With that, a golden form seemed to stand out from the + green of the cedar, to move and to rise.</p> + + <p>"She's treed! She's treed!" shouted Jones. "Go down and keep + her there while I follow."</p> + + <p>From the back of the promontory where I met the main wall, I + let myself down a niche, foot here and there, a hand hard on the + soft stone, braced knee and back until I jumped to the edge of + the slope. The scrub oak and manzanita saved me many a fall. I + set some stones rolling and I beat them to the bottom. Having + passed the thicket, I bent my efforts to the yellow slide and + when I had surmounted it my breath came in labored pants. The + howling of the hounds guided me through the cedars.</p> + + <p>First I saw Moze in the branches of cedar and above him the + lioness. I ran out into a little open patch of stony ground at + the end of which the tree stood leaning over a precipice. In + truth the lioness was swaying over a chasm.</p> + + <p>Those details I grasped in a glance, then suddenly awoke to + the fact that the lioness was savagely snarling at Moze.</p> + + <p>"Moze! Moze! Get down!" I yelled.</p> + + <p>He climbed on serenely. He was a most exasperating dog. I + screamed at him and hit him with a rock big enough to break his + bones. He kept on climbing. Here was a predicament. Moze would + surely get to the lioness if I did not stop him, and this seemed + impossible. It was out of the question for me to climb after him. + And if the lioness jumped she would have to pass me or come + straight at me. So I slipped down the safety catch on my + automatic and stood ready to save Moze or myself.</p> + + <p>The lioness with a show of fury that startled me, descended + her branch a few steps, and reaching below gave Moze a sounding + smack with her big paw. The hound dropped as if he had been shot + and hit the ground with a thud. Whereupon she returned to her + perch.</p> + + <p>This reassured me and I ran among the dogs and caught Moze + already starting for the tree again and tied him, with a strap I + always carried, to a small bush nearby. I heard the yells of my + companions and looking back over the tops of the cedars I saw Jim + riding down and higher to the left Jones sliding, falling, + running at a great rate. I encouraged them to keep up the good + work, and then gave my attention to the lioness.</p> + + <p>She regarded me with a cold, savage stare and showed her + teeth. I repaid this incivility on her part by promptly + photographing her from different points.</p> + + <p>Jones and Jim were on the spot before I expected them and both + were dusty and dripping with sweat. I found to my surprise that + my face was wet as was also my shirt. Jones carried two lassos, + and my canteen, which I had left on the promontory.</p> + + <p>"Ain't she a beauty?" he panted, wiping his face. + "Wait—till I get my breath."</p> + + <p>When finally he walked toward the cedar the lioness stood up + and growled as if she realized the entrance of the chief actor + upon the scene. Jones cast his lasso apparently to try her out, + and the noose spread out and fell over her head. As he tightened + the rope the lioness backed down behind a branch.</p> + + <p>"Tie the dogs!" yelled Jones.</p> + + <p>"Quick!" added Jim. "She's goin' to jump."</p> + + <p>Jim had only time to aid me in running my lasso under the + collar of Don, Sounder, Jude and one of the pups. I made them + fast to a cedar. I got my hands on Ranger just as Moze broke his + strap. I grabbed his collar and held on.</p> + + <p>Right there was where trouble commenced for me. Ranger tussled + valiantly and Moze pulled me all over the place. Behind me I + heard Jones' roar and Jim's yell; the breaking of branches, the + howling of the other dogs. Ranger broke away from me and so + enabled me to get my other hand on the neck of crazy Moze. On + more than one occasion I had tried to hold him and had failed; + this time I swore I would do it if he rolled me over the + precipice. As to that, only a bush saved me.</p> + + <p>More and louder roars and yells, hoarser howls and sharper + wrestling, snapping sounds told me what was going on while I + tried to subdue Moze. I had a grim thought that I would just as + lief have had hold of the lioness. The hound presently stopped + his plunging which gave me an opportunity to look about. The + little space was smoky with a smoke of dust. I saw the lioness + stretched out with one lasso around a bush and another around a + cedar with the end in the hands of Jim. He looked as if he had + dug up the ground. While he tied this lasso securely Jones + proceeded to rope the dangerous front paws.</p> + + <p>The hounds quieted down and I took advantage of this absence + of tumult to get rid of Moze.</p> + + <p>"Pretty lively," said Jones, spitting gravel as I walked up. + Sand and dust lay thick in his beard and blackened his face. "I + tell you she made us root."</p> + + <p>Either the lioness had been much weakened or choked, or Jones + had unusual luck, for we muzzled her and tied up her paws in + short order.</p> + + <p>"Where's Ranger?" I asked suddenly, missing him from the + panting hounds.</p> + + <p>"I grabbed him by the heels when he tackled the lion, and I + gave him a sling somewheres," replied Jim.</p> + + <p>Ranger put in an appearance then under the cedars limping + painfully.</p> + + <p>"Jim, darn me, if I don't believe you pitched him over the + precipice!" said Jones.</p> + + <p>Examination proved this surmise to be correct. We saw where + Ranger had slipped over a twenty-foot wall. If he had gone over + just under the cedar where the depth was much greater he would + never have come back.</p> + + <p>"The hounds are choking with dust and heat," I said. When I + poured just a little water from my canteen into the crown of my + hat, the hounds began fighting around and over me and spilled the + water.</p> + + <p>"Behave, you coyotes!" I yelled. Either they were insulted or + fully realized the exigency of the situation, for each one came + up and gratefully lapped every drop of his portion.</p> + + <p>"Shore, now comes the hell of it," said Jim appearing with a + long pole. "Packin' the critter out."</p> + + <p>An argument arose in regard to the best way up the slope, and + by virtue of a majority we decided to try the direction Jim and I + thought best. My companions led the way, carrying the lioness + suspended on the pole. I brought up the rear, packing my rifle, + camera, lasso, canteen and a chain.</p> + + <p>It was killing work. We had to rest every few steps. Often we + would fall. Jim laughed, Jones swore, and I groaned. Sometimes I + had to drop my things to help my companions. So we toiled wearily + up the loose, steep way.</p> + + <p>"What's she shakin' like that for?" asked Jim suddenly.</p> + + <p>Jones let down his end of the pole and turned quickly. Little + tremors quivered over the lissome body of the lioness.</p> + + <p>"She's dying," cried Jim, jerking out the stick between her + teeth and slipping off the wire muzzle.</p> + + <p>Her mouth opened and her frothy tongue lolled out. Jones + pointed to her quivering sides and then raised her eyelids. We + saw the eyes already glazing, solemnly fixed.</p> + + <p>"She's gone," he said.</p> + + <p>Very soon she lay inert and lifeless. Then we sat beside her + without a word, and we could hardly for the moment have been more + stunned and heartbroken if it had been the tragic death of one of + our kind. In that wild environment, obsessed by the desire to + capture those beautiful cats alive, the fateful ending of the + successful chase was felt out of all proportion.</p> + + <p>"Shore she's dead," said Jim. "And wasn't she a beauty? What + was wrong?"</p> + + <p>"The heat and lack of water," replied Jones. "She choked. What + idiots we were! Why didn't we think to give her a drink."</p> + + <p>So we passionately protested against our want of fore-thought, + and looked again and again with the hope that she might come to. + But death had stilled the wild heart. We gave up presently, still + did not move on. We were exhausted, and all the while the hounds + lay panting on the rocks, the bees hummed, the flies buzzed. The + red colors of the upper walls and the purple shades of the lower + darkened silently.</p> + + <center> + VI + </center> + + <p>"Shore we can't set here all night," said Jim. "Let's skin the + lion an' feed the hounds."</p> + + <p>The most astonishing thing in our eventful day was the amount + of meat stowed away by the dogs. Lion flesh appealed to their + appetites. If hungry Moze had an ounce of meat, he had ten + pounds. It seemed a good opportunity to see how much the old + gladiator could eat; and Jim and I cut chunks of meat as fast as + possible. Moze gulped them with absolute unconcern of such a + thing as mastication. At length he reached his limit, possibly + for the first time in his life, and looking longingly at a juicy + red strip Jim held out, he refused it with manifest shame. Then + he wobbled and fell down.</p> + + <p>We called to him as we started to climb the slope, but he did + not come. Then the business of conquering that ascent of sliding + stone absorbed all our faculties and strength. Little headway + could we have made had it not been for the brush. We toiled up a + few feet only to slide back and so it went on until we were weary + of life.</p> + + <p>When one by one we at last gained the rim and sat there to + recover breath, the sun was a half globe of fire burning over the + western ramparts. A red sunset bathed the canyon in crimson, + painting the walls, tinting the shadows to resemble dropping + mists of blood. It was beautiful and enthralling to my eyes, but + I turned away because it wore the mantle of tragedy.</p> + + <p>Dispirited and worn out, we trooped into camp to find Emett + and a steaming supper. Between bites the three of us related the + story of the red lioness. Emett whistled long and low and then + expressed his regret in no light terms.</p> + + <p>"Roping wild steers and mustangs is play to this work," he + said in conclusion.</p> + + <p>I was too tired to tease our captive lions that evening; even + the glowing camp-fire tempted me in vain, and I crawled into my + bed with eyes already glued shut.</p> + + <p>A heavy weight on my feet stirred me from oblivion. At first, + when only half awake, I could not realize what had fallen on my + bed, then hearing a deep groan I knew Moze had come back. I was + dropping off again when a strange, low sound caused my eyes to + open wide. The black night had faded to the gray of dawn. The + sound I recognized at once to be the Navajo's morning chant. I + lay there and listened. Soft and monotonous, wild and swelling, + but always low and strange, the savage song to the break of day + was exquisitely beautiful and harmonious. I wondered what the + literal meaning of his words could have been. The significance + needed no translation. To the black shadows fading away, to the + brightening of the gray light, to the glow of the east, to the + morning sun, to the Giver of Life—to these the Indian + chanted his prayer.</p> + + <p>Could there have been a better prayer? Pagan or not, the + Navajo with his forefathers felt the spiritual power of the + trees, the rocks, the light and sun, and he prayed to that which + was divinely helpful to him in all the mystery of his + unintelligible life.</p> + + <p>We did not crawl out that morning as early as usual, for it + was to be a day of rest. When we did, a mooted question + arose—whether we or the hounds were the more crippled. + Ranger did not show himself; Don could just walk and that was + all; Moze was either too full or too tired to move; Sounder + nursed a foot and Jude favored her lame leg.</p> + + <p>After lunch we brightened up somewhat and set ourselves + different tasks. Jones had misplaced or lost his wire and began + to turn the camp topsy-turvy in his impatient efforts to locate + it. The wire, however, was not to be found. This was a calamity, + for, as we asked each other, how could we muzzle lions without + wire? Moreover, a half dozen heavy leather straps which I had + bought in Kanab for use as lion collars had disappeared. We had + only one collar left, the one that Jones had put on the red + lioness.</p> + + <p>Whereupon we began to blame each other, to argue, to grow + heated and naturally from that to become angry. It seems a + fatality of campers along a wild trail, like explorers in an + unknown land, to be prone to fight. If there is an explanation of + this singular fact, it must be that men at such time lose their + poise and veneer of civilization; in brief, they go back. At all + events we had it hot and heavy, with the center of attack + gradually focusing on Jones, and as he was always losing + something, naturally we united in force against him.</p> + + <p>Fortunately, we were interrupted by yells from the Navajo off + in the woods. The brushing of branches and pounding of hoofs + preceded his appearance. In some remarkable manner he had gotten + a bridle on Marc, and from the way the big stallion hurled his + huge bulk over logs and through thickets, it appeared evident he + meant to usurp Jim's ambition and kill the Navajo. Hearing Emett + yell, the Indian turned Marc toward camp. The horse slowed down + when he neared the glade and tried to buck. But Navvy kept his + head up. With that Marc seemed to give way to ungovernable rage + and plunged right through camp; he knocked over the dogs' shelter + and thundered down the ridge.</p> + + <p>Now the Navajo, with the bridle in his hand was thoroughly at + home. He was getting his revenge on Marc, and he would have kept + his seat on a wild mustang, but Marc swerved suddenly under a low + branch of a pine, sweeping the Indian off.</p> + + <p>When Navvy did not rise we began to fear he had been seriously + hurt, perhaps killed, and we ran to where he lay.</p> + + <p>Face downward, hands outstretched, with no movement of body or + muscle, he certainly appeared dead.</p> + + <p>"Badly hurt," said Emett, "probably back broken. I have seen + it before from just such accidents."</p> + + <p>"Oh no!" cried Jones, and I felt so deeply I could not speak. + Jim, who always wanted Navvy to be a dead Indian, looked + profoundly sorry.</p> + + <p>"He's a dead Indian, all right," replied Emett.</p> + + <p>We rose from our stooping postures and stood around, uncertain + and deeply grieved, until a mournful groan from Navvy afforded us + much relief.</p> + + <p>"That's your dead Indian," exclaimed Jones.</p> + + <p>Emett stooped again and felt the Indian's back and got in + reward another mournful groan.</p> + + <p>"It's his back," said Emett, and true to his ruling passion, + forever to minister to the needs of horses, men, and things, he + began to rub the Indian and call for the liniment.</p><a name= + "image-0031"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg027_m.jpg" width="448" height="837" alt= + "Treed Lion "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0032"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg028_m.jpg" width="448" height="686" alt= + "Treed Lion "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Jim went to fetch it, while I, still believing the Navvy to be + dangerously hurt, knelt by him and pulled up his shirt, exposing + the hollow of his brown back.</p> + + <p>"Here we are," said Jim, returning on the run with the + bottle.</p> + + <p>"Pour some on," replied Emett.</p> + + <p>Jim removed the cork and soused the liniment all over the + Indian's back.</p> + + <p>"Don't waste it," remonstrated Emett, starting to rub Navvy's + back.</p> + + <p>Then occurred a most extraordinary thing. A convulsion seemed + to quiver through the Indian's body; he rose at a single leap, + and uttering a wild, piercing yell broke into a run. I never saw + an Indian or anybody else run so fleetly. Yell after yell pealed + back to us.</p> + + <p>Absolutely dumfounded we all gazed at each other.</p> + + <p>"That's your dead Indian!" ejaculated Jim.</p> + + <p>"What the hell!" exclaimed Emett, who seldom used such + language.</p> + + <p>"Look here!" cried Jones, grabbing the bottle. "See! Don't you + see it?"</p> + + <p>Jim fell face downward and began to shake.</p> + + <p>"What?" shouted Emett and I together.</p> + + <p>"Turpentine, you idiots! Turpentine! Jim brought the wrong + bottle!"</p> + + <p>In another second three more forms lay stretched out on the + sward, and the forest rang with sounds of mirth.</p> + + <center> + VII + </center> + + <p>That night the wind switched and blew cold from the north, and + so strong that the camp-fire roared like a furnace. "More snow" + was the verdict of all of us, and in view of this, I invited the + Navajo to share my tent.</p> + + <p>"Sleepie-me," I said to him.</p> + + <p>"Me savvy," he replied and forthwith proceeded to make his bed + with me.</p> + + <p>Much to my surprise all my comrades raised protestations, + which struck me as being singularly selfish considering they + would not be inconvenienced in any way.</p> + + <p>"Why not?" I asked. "It's a cold night. There'll be frost if + not snow."</p> + + <p>"Shore you'll get 'em," said Jim.</p> + + <p>"There never was an Indian that didn't have 'em," added + Jones.</p> + + <p>"What?" I questioned.</p> + + <p>They made mysterious signs that rather augmented my ignorance + as to what I might get from the Indian, but in no wise changed my + mind. When I went to bed I had to crawl over Navvy. Moze lay at + my feet as usual and he growled so deep that I could not but + think he, too, resented the addition to my small tent.</p> + + <p>"Mista Gay!" came in the Indian's low voice.</p> + + <p>"Well Navvy?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Sleepie—sleepie?"</p> + + <p>"Yes, Navvy, sleepy and tired. Are you?"</p> + + <p>"Me savvy—mucha sleepie—mucha—no bueno."</p> + + <p>I did not wonder at his feeling sleepy, tired and bad. He did + not awaken me in the morning, for when my eyes unclosed the tent + was light and he had gone. I found my companions up and + doing.</p> + + <p>We had breakfast and got into our saddles by the time the sun, + a red ball low down among the pines, began to brighten and turn + to gold. No snow had fallen but a thick frost encrusted the + ground. The hounds, wearing cloth moccasins, which plainly they + detested, trotted in front. Don showed no effects of his great + run down the sliding slope after the red lioness; it was one of + his remarkable qualities that he recuperated so quickly. Ranger + was a little stiff, and Sounder favored his injured foot. The + others were as usual.</p> + + <p>Jones led down the big hollow to which he kept after we had + passed the edge of the pines; then marking a herd of deer ahead, + he turned his horse up the bank.</p> + + <p>We breasted the ridge and jogged toward the cedar forest, + which we entered without having seen the hounds show interest in + anything. Under the cedars in the soft yellow dust we crossed + lion tracks, many of them, but too old to carry a scent. Even + North Hollow with its regular beaten runway failed to win a + murmur from the pack.</p> + + <p>"Spread out," said Jones, "and look for tracks. I'll keep the + center and hold in the hounds."</p> + + <p>Signalling occasionally to one another we crossed almost the + breadth of the cedar forest to its western end, where the open + sage flats inclined to the rim. In one of those flats I came upon + a broken sage bush, the grass being thick thereabout. I + discovered no track but dismounted and scrutinized the + surroundings carefully. A heavy body had been dragged across the + sage, crushing it. The ends of broken bushes were green, the + leaves showed bruises.</p> + + <p>I began to feel like Don when he scented game. Leading my + mustang I slowly proceeded across the open, guided by an + occasional down-trodden bush or tuft of grass. As I neared the + cedars again Foxie snorted. Under the first tree I found a + ghastly bunch of red bones, a spread of grayish hairs and a split + skull. The bones, were yet wet; two long doe ears were still + warm. Then I saw big lion tracks in the dust and even a well + pressed imprint of a lion's body where he had rolled or lain.</p> + + <p>The two yells I sent ringing into the forest were productive + of interesting results. Answers came from near and far. Then, + what with my calling and the replies, the forest rang so steadily + with shrill cries that the echoes had no chance to follow.</p> + + <p>An elephant in the jungle could not have caused more crashing + and breaking of brush than did Emett as he made his way to me. He + arrived from the forest just as Jim galloped across the flat. + Mutely I held up the two long ears.</p> + + <p>"Get on your horse!" cried Jim after one quick glance at the + spread of bones and hair.</p> + + <p>It was well he said that, for I might have been left behind. I + ran to Foxie and vaulted upon him. A flash of yellow appeared + among the sage and a string of yelps split the air.</p> + + <p>"It's Don!" yelled Jim.</p> + + <p>Well we knew that. What a sight to see him running straight + for us! He passed, a savage yellow wolf in his ferocity, and + disappeared like a gleam under the gloomy cedars.</p> + + <p>We spurred after him. The other hounds sped by. Jones closed + in on us from the left, and in a few minutes we were strung out + behind Emett, fighting the branches, dodging and swerving, + hugging the saddle, and always sending out our sharp yells.</p> + + <p>The race was furious but short. The three of us coming up + together found Emett dismounted on the extreme end of West + Point.</p> + + <p>"The hounds have gone down," he said, pointing to the + runway.</p> + + <p>We all listened to the meaning bays.</p> + + <p>"Shore they've got him up!" asserted Jim. "Like as not they + found him under the rim here, sleeping off his gorge. Now + fellows, I'll go down. It might be a good idea for you to spread + along the rim."</p><a name="image-0033"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg029_m.jpg" width="448" height="790" alt= + "Treed Lion "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0034"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg030_m.jpg" width="448" height="733" alt= + "Hiding "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>With that we turned our horses eastward and rode as close to + the rim as possible. Clumps of cedars and deep fissures often + forced us to circle them. The hounds, traveling under the walls + below, kept pace with us and then forged ahead, which fact caused + Jones to dispatch Emett on the gallop for the next runway at + North Hollow.</p> + + <p>Soon Jones bade me dismount and make my way out upon one of + the promontories, while he rode a little farther on. As I tied my + mustang I heard the hounds, faint and far beneath. I waded + through the sage and cedar to the rim.</p> + + <p>Cape after cape jutted out over the abyss. Some were very + sharp and bare, others covered with cedar; some tottering crags + with a crumbling bridge leading to their rims; and some ran down + like giant steps. From one of these I watched below. The slope + here under the wall was like the side of a rugged mountain. + Somewhere down among the dark patches of cedar and the great + blocks of stone the hounds were hunting the lion, but I could not + see one of them.</p> + + <p>The promontory I had chosen had a split, and choked as this + was with brush, rock, and shale, it seemed a place where I might + climb down. Once started, I could not turn back, and sliding, + clinging to what afforded, I worked down the crack. A wall of + stone hid the sky from me part of the way. I came out a hundred + feet below upon a second promontory of huge slabs of yellow + stone. Over these I clambered, to sit with my feet swinging over + the last one.</p> + + <p>Straight before my gaze yawned the awful expanse of the + canyon. In the soft morning light the red mesas, the yellow + walls, the black domes were less harsh than in the full noonday + sun, purer than in the tender shadow of twilight. Below me were + slopes and slides divided by ravines full of stones as large as + houses, with here and there a lonesome leaning crag, giving + irresistible proof of the downward trend, of the rolling, + weathering ruins of the rim. Above the wall bulged out full of + fissures, ragged and rotten shelves, toppling columns of yellow + limestone, beaded with quartz and colored by wild flowers + wonderfully growing in crannies.</p> + + <p>Wild and rare as was this environment, I gave it but a glance + and a thought. The bay of the hounds caused me to bend sharp and + eager eyes to the open spaces of stone and slide below. Luck was + mine as usual; the hounds were working up toward me. How I + strained my sight! Hearing a single cry I looked eastward to see + Jones silhouetted against the blue on a black promontory. He + seemed a giant primeval man overlooking the ruin of a former + world. I signalled him to make for my point.</p> + + <p>Black Ranger hove in sight at the top of a yellow slide. He + was at fault but hunting hard. Jude and Sounder bayed off to his + left. I heard Don's clear voice, permeating the thin, cool air, + seemingly to leave a quality of wildness upon it; yet I could not + locate him. Ranger disappeared. Then for a time I only heard Jim. + Moze was next to appear and he, too, was upward bound. A jumble + of stone hid him, and then Ranger again showed. Evidently he + wanted to get around the bottom of a low crag, for he jumped and + jumped only to fall back.</p> + + <p>Quite naturally my eyes searched that crag. Stretched out upon + the top of it was the long, slender body of a lion.</p> + + <p>"Hi! hi! hi! hi! hi!" I yelled till my lungs failed me.</p> + + <p>"Where are you?" came from above.</p> + + <p>"Here! Here!" I cried seeing Jones on the rim. "Come down. + Climb down the crack. The lion is here; on top of that round + crag. He's fooled the hounds and they can't find him."</p> + + <p>"I see him! I see him!" yelled Jones. Then he roared out a + single call for Emett that pealed like a clear clarion along the + curved broken rim wall, opening up echoes which clapped like + thunder.</p> + + <p>While Jones clattered down I turned again to the lion. He lay + with head hidden under a little shelf and he moved not a muscle. + What a place for him to choose! But for my accidental venturing + down the broken fragments and steps of the rim he could have + remained safe from pursuit.</p> + + <p>Suddenly, right under my feet, Don opened his string of yelps. + I could not see him but decided he must be above the lion on the + crag. I leaned over as far as I dared. At that moment among the + varied and thrilling sounds about me I became vaguely aware of + hard, panting breaths, like coughs somewhere in my vicinity. As + Jones had set in motion bushels of stone and had already scraped + his feet over the rocks behind me I thought the forced + respiration came from him. When I turned he was yet far + off—too far for me to hear him breathe. I thought this + circumstance strange but straightway forgot it.</p> + + <p>On the moment from my right somewhere Don pealed out his bugle + blast, and immediately after Sounder and Jude joining him, sent + up the thrice welcome news of a treed lion.</p> + + <p>"There 're two! There 're two!" I yelled to Jones, now working + down to my right.</p> + + <p>"He's treed down here. I've got him spotted!" replied Jones. + "You stay there and watch your lion. Yell for Emett."</p> + + <p>Signal after signal for Emett earned no response, though Jim + far below to the left sent me an answer.</p> + + <p>The next few minutes, or more likely half an hour, passed with + Jones and me separated from each other by a wall of broken stone, + waiting impatiently for Jim and Emett, while the hounds bayed one + lion and I watched the other.</p> + + <p>Calmness was impossible under such circumstances. No man could + have gazed into that marvel of color and distance, with wild life + about him, with wild sounds ringing in his ears, without yielding + to the throb and race of his wild blood.</p> + + <p>Emett did not come. Jim had not answered a yell for minutes. + No doubt he needed his breath. He came into sight just to the + left of our position, and he ran down one side of the ravine to + toil up the other. I hailed him, Jones hailed him and the hounds + hailed him.</p> + + <p>"Steer to your left Jim!" I called.. "There's a lion on that + crag above you. He might jump. Round the cliff to the + left—Jones is there!"</p> + + <p>The most painful task it was for me to sit there and listen to + the sound rising from below without being able to see what + happened. My lion had peeped up once, and, seeing me, had + crouched closer to his crag, evidently believing he was unseen, + which obviously made it imperative for me to keep my seat and + hold him there as long as possible.</p> + + <p>But to hear the various exclamations thrilled me enough.</p> + + <p>"Hyar Moze—get out of that. Catch him—hold him! + Damn these rotten limbs. Hand me a pole—Jones, back + down—back down! he's comin'—Hi! Hi! Whoop! + Boo—o! There—now you've got him! No, no; it slipped! + Now! Look out, Jim, from under—he's going to jump!"</p> + + <p>A smashing and rattling of loose stones and a fiery burst of + yelps with trumpet-like yells followed close upon Jones' last + words. Then two yellow streaks leaped down the ravine. The first + was the lion, the second was Don. The rest of the pack came + tumbling helter-skelter in their wake. Following them raced Jim + in long kangaroo leaps, with Jones in the rear, running for all + he was worth. The animated and musical procession passed up out + of the ravine and gradually lengthened as the lion gained and + Jones lost, till it passed altogether from my jealous sight.</p> + + <p>On the other side of the ridge of cedars the hounds treed + their quarry again, as was easy to tell by their change from + sharp intermittent yelping to an unbroken, full, deep chorus. + Then presently all quieted down, and for long moments at a time + the still silence enfolded the slope. Shouts now and then floated + up on the wind and an occasional bark.</p> + + <p>I sat there for an hour by my watch, though it seemed only a + few minutes, and all that time my lion lay crouched on his crag + and never moved.</p> + + <p>I looked across the curve of the canyon to the purple breaks + of the Siwash and the shaggy side of Buckskin Mountain and far + beyond to where Kanab Canyon opened its dark mouth, and farther + still to the Pink Cliffs of Utah, weird and dim in the + distance.</p> + + <p>Something swelled within my breast at the thought that for the + time I was part of that wild scene. The eye of an eagle soaring + above would have placed me as well as my lion among the few + living things in the range of his all-compassing vision. + Therefore, all was mine, not merely the lion—for he was + only the means to an end—but the stupendous, unnameable + thing beneath me, this chasm that hid mountains in the shades of + its cliffs, and the granite tombs, some gleaming pale, + passionless, others red and warm, painted by a master hand; and + the wind-caves, dark-portaled under their mist curtains, and all + that was deep and far off, unapproachable, unattainable, of + beauty exceeding, dressed in ever-changing hues, was mine by + right of presence, by right of the eye to see and the mind to + keep.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!"</p> + + <p>The cry lifted itself out of the depths. I saw Jones on the + ridge of cedars.</p> + + <p>"All right here—have you kept your line there?" he + yelled.</p> + + <p>"All's well—come along, come along," I replied.</p> + + <p>I watched them coming, and all the while my lion never moved. + The hounds reached the base of the cliff under me, but they could + not find the lion, though they scented him, for they kept up a + continual baying. Jim got up to the shelf under me and said they + had tied up the lion and left him below. Jones toiled slowly up + the slope.</p> + + <p>"Some one ought to stay down there; he might jump," I called + in warning.</p> + + <p>"That crag is forty feet high on this side," he replied.</p> + + <p>I clambered back over the uneven mass, let myself down between + the boulders and crawled under a dark ridge, and finally with Jim + catching my rifle and camera and then lending his shoulders, I + reached the bench below. Jones came puffing around a corner of + the cliff, and soon all three of us with the hounds stood out on + the rocky shelf with only a narrow space between us and the + crouching lion.</p> + + <p>Before we had a moment to speak, much less form a plan of + attack, the lion rose, spat at us defiantly, and deliberately + jumped off the crag. We heard him strike with a frightful + thud.</p> + + <p>Surprise held us dumb. To take the leap to the slope below + seemed beyond any beast not endowed with wings. We saw the lion + bounding down the identical trail which the other lion had taken. + Jones came out of his momentary indecision.</p> + + <p>"Hold the dogs! Call them back!" he yelled hoarsely. "They'll + kill the lion we tied! They'll kill him!"</p> + + <p>The hounds had scattered off the bench here and there, + everywhere, to come together on the trail below. Already they + were in full cry with the matchless Don at the fore. Manifestly + to call them back was an injustice, as well as impossible. In ten + seconds they were out of sight.</p> + + <p>In silence we waited, each listening, each feeling the tragedy + of the situation, each praying that they would pass by the poor, + helpless, bound lion. Suddenly the regular baying swelled to a + burst of savage, snarling fury, such as the pack made in a + vicious fight. This ceased—short silence ensued; Don's + sharp voice woke the echoes, then the regular baying + continued.</p> + + <p>As with one thought, we all sat down. Painful as the certainty + was it was not so painful as that listening, hoping suspense.</p> + + <p>"Shore they can't be blamed," said Jim finally. "Bumping their + nose into a tied lion that way—how'd they know?"</p> + + <p>"Who could guess the second lion would jump off that quick and + run back to our captive?" burst out Jones.</p> + + <p>"Shore we might have knowed it," replied Jim. "Well, I'm goin' + after the pack."</p> + + <p>He gathered up his lasso and strode off the bench. Jones said + he would climb back to the rim, and I followed Jim.</p> + + <p>Why the lions ran in that particular direction was clear to me + when I saw the trail. It was a runway, smooth and hard packed. I + trudged along it with rather less enjoyment than on any trail I + had ever followed to the canyon. Jim waited for me over the cedar + ridge and showed me where the captive lion lay dead. The hounds + had not torn him. They had killed him and passed on after the + other.</p> + + <p>"He was a fine fellow, all of seven feet, we'll skin him on + our way back."</p> + + <p>Only dogged determination coupled with a sense of duty to the + hounds kept us on that trail. For the time being enthusiasm had + been submerged. But we had to follow the pack.</p> + + <p>Jim, less weighted down and perhaps less discouraged, forged + ahead up and down. The sun had burned all the morning coolness + out of the air. I perspired and panted and began to grow weary. + Jim's signal called me to hurry. I took to a trot and came upon + him and the hounds under a small cedar. The lion stood among the + dead branches. His sides where shaking convulsively, and his + short breaths could be plainly heard. He had the most blazing + eyes and most untamed expression of any wild creature I have ever + seen; and this amazed me considering I had kept him on a crag for + over an hour, and had come to look upon him as my own.</p> + + <p>"What'll we do, Jim, now that we have him treed?"</p> + + <p>"Shore, we'll tie him up," declared Jim.</p> + + <p>The lion stayed in the cedar long enough for me to photograph + him twice, then he leaped down again and took to his back trail. + We followed as fast as we could, soon to find that the hounds had + put him up another cedar. From this he jumped down among the + dogs, scattered them as if they had been so many leaves, and + bounded up the slope out of sight.</p> + + <p>I laid aside my rifle and camera and tried to keep up with + Jim. The lion ran straight up the slope and treed again under the + wall. Before we covered half the distance he was on the go once + more, flying down in clouds of dust.</p> + + <p>"Don is makin' him hump," said Jim.</p> + + <p>And that alone was enough to spur us on. We would reward the + noble hound if we had the staying power. Don and his pack ran + westward this time, and along a mile of the beaten trail put him + up two more trees. But these we could not see and judged only by + the sound.</p><a name="image-0035"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg031_m.jpg" width="448" height="704" alt= + "A Drink of Cold Granite Water Under the Rim "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0036"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg032_m.jpg" width="448" height="689" alt= + "Which is the Piute? "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>"Look there!" cried Jim. "Darn me if he ain't comin' right at + us."</p> + + <p>It was true. Ahead of us the lion appeared, loping wearily. We + stopped in our tracks undecided. Jim drew his revolver. Once or + twice the lion disappeared behind stones and cedars. When he + sighted us he stopped, looked back, then again turning toward us, + he left the trail to plunge down. He had barely got out of sight + when old Don came pattering along the trail; then Ranger leading + the others. Don did not even put his nose to the ground where the + lion had switched, but leaped aside and went down. Here the long + section of slope between the lion's runway and the second wall + had been weathered and worn, racked and convulsed into deep + ravines, with ridges between. We climbed and fell and toiled on, + always with the bay of the hounds in our ears. We leaped + fissures, we loosened avalanches, rolling them to crash and roar + below, and send long, rumbling echoes out into the canyon.</p> + + <p>A gorge in the yellow rock opened suddenly before us. We stood + at the constricted neck of one of the great splits in the second + wall. The side opposite was almost perpendicular, and formed of + mass on mass of broken stones. This was a weathered slope on a + gigantic scale. Points of cliffs jutted out; caves and cracks + lined the wall.</p> + + <p>"This is a rough place," said Jim; "but a lion could get over + the second wall here, an' I believe a man could too. The hounds + seemed to be back further toward where the split narrows."</p> + + <p>Through densely massed cedars and thickets of prickly thorns + we wormed our way to come out at the neck of the gorge.</p> + + <p>"There ye are!" sang out Jim. The hounds were all on a flat + shelf some few feet below us, and on a sharp point of rock close + by, but too far for the dogs to reach, crouched the lion. He was + gasping and frothing at the mouth.</p> + + <p>"Shore if he'd only stay there—" said Jim.</p> + + <p>He loosened his lasso, and stationing himself just above the + tired beast he prepared to cast down the loop. The first throw + failed of its purpose, but the rope hit the lion. He got up + painfully it seemed, and faced the dogs. That way barred he + turned to the cliff. Almost opposite him a shelf leaned out. He + looked at it, then paced to and fro like a beast in a cage.</p> + + <p>He looked again at the hounds, then up at us, all around, and + finally concentrated his attention on the shelf; his long length + sagged in the middle, he stretched low, his muscles gathered and + strung, and he sprang like a tawny streak.</p> + + <p>His aim was true, the whole forepart of his body landed on the + shelf and he hung there. Then he slipped. We distinctly heard his + claws scrape the hard, smooth rock. He fell, turning a + somersault, struck twenty feet below on the rough slant, bounded + from that to fall down, striking suddenly and then to roll, a + yellow wheel that lodged behind a rock and stretched out to move + no more.</p> + + <p>The hounds were silent; Jim and I were silent; a few little + stones rattled, then were still. The dead silence of the canyon + seemed to pay tribute to the lion's unquenchable spirit and to + the freedom he had earned to the last.</p> + + <center> + VIII + </center> + + <p>How long Jim and I sat there we never knew. The second + tragedy, not so pitiful but as heart sickening as the first, + crushed our spirits.</p> + + <p>"Shore he was a game lion," said Jim. "An' I'll have to get + his skin."</p> + + <p>"I'm all in, Jim. I couldn't climb out of that hole." I + said.</p> + + <p>"You needn't. Rest a little, take a good drink an' leave your + canteen here for me; then get your things back there on the trail + an' climb out. We're not far from West Point. I'll go back after + the first lion's skin an' then climb straight up. You lead my + horse to the point where you came off the rim."</p> + + <p>He clattered along the gorge knocking the stones and started + down. I watched him letting himself over the end of the huge + slabs until he passed out of my sight. A good, long drink revived + me and I began the ascent.</p> + + <p>From that moment on time did not matter to me. I forgot all + about it. I felt only my leaden feet and my laboring chest and + dripping skin. I did not even notice the additional weight of my + rifle and camera though they must have overburdened me. I kept my + eyes on the lion runway and plunged away with short steps. To + look at these towering walls would have been to surrender.</p> + + <p>At last, stumbling, bursting, sick, I gained the rim and had + to rest before I could mount. When I did get into the saddle I + almost fell from it.</p> + + <p>Jones and Emett were waiting for me at the promontory where I + had tied my horse, and were soon acquainted with the particulars + of my adventure, and that Jim would probably not get out for + hours. We made tracks for camp, and never did a place rouse in me + such a sense of gratefulness. Emett got dinner and left on the + fire a kettle of potato stew for Jim. It was almost dark when + that worthy came riding into camp. We never said a word as he + threw the two lion skins on the ground.</p> + + <p>"Fellows, you shore have missed the wind-up!" he + exclaimed.</p> + + <p>We all looked at him and he looked at us.</p> + + <p>"Was there any more?" I asked weakly.</p> + + <p>"Shore! An' it beats hell! When I got the skin of the lion the + dogs killed I started to work up to the place I knowed you'd + leave my horse. It's bad climbing where you came down. I got on + the side of that cliff an' saw where I could work out, if I could + climb a smooth place. So I tried. There was little cracks an' + ridges for my feet and hands. All to once, just above where I + helped you down, I heard a growl. Looking up I saw a big lion, + bigger'n any we chased except Sultan, an' he was pokin' his head + out of a hole, an' shore telling me to come no further. I + couldn't let go with either hand to reach my gun, because I'd + have fallen, so I yelled at him with all my might. He spit at me + an' then walked out of the hole over the bench as proud as a lord + an' jumped down where I couldn't see him any more. I climbed out + all right but he'd gone. An' I'll tell you for a minute, he shore + made me sweat."</p> + + <p>"By George!" I yelled, greatly excited. "I heard that lion + breathing. Don chased him up there. I heard hard, wheezing + breaths somewhere behind me, but in the excitement I didn't pay + any attention to them. I thought it was Jones panting, but now I + know what it meant."</p> + + <p>"Shore. He was there all the time, lookin' at you an' maybe he + could have reached you."</p> + + <p>We were all too exhausted for more discussion and putting that + off until the next day we sought our beds. It was hardly any + wonder that I felt myself jumping even in my sleep, and started + up wildly more than once in the dead of night.</p><a name= + "image-0037"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg033_m.jpg" width="765" height="448" alt= + "Wild Horses Drinking on a Promontory in the Grand Canyon "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Morning found us all rather subdued, yet more inclined to a + philosophical resignation as regarded the difficulties of our + special kind of hunting. Capturing the lions on the level of the + plateau was easy compared to following them down into canyons and + bringing them up alone. We all agreed that that was next to + impossible. Another feature, which before we had not considered, + added to our perplexity and it was a dawning consciousness that + we would be perhaps less cruel if we killed the lions outright. + Jones and Emett arrayed themselves on the side that life even in + captivity was preferable; while Jim and I, no doubt still under + the poignant influence of the last lion's heroic race and end, + inclined to freedom or death. We compromised on the reasonable + fact that as yet we had shown only a jackass kind of + intelligence.</p><a name="image-0038"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg034a_m.jpg" width="448" height="339" alt= + "Jones and Emett Packing Lion on Horse "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0039"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg034b_m.jpg" width="448" height="348" alt= + "Jones Climbing up to Lasso Lion "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>About eleven o'clock while the others had deserted camp + temporarily for some reason or other, I was lounging upon an + odorous bed of pine needles. The sun shone warmly, the sky + gleamed bright azure through the openings of the great trees, a + dry west breeze murmured through the forest. I was lying on my + bed musing idly and watching a yellow woodpecker when suddenly I + felt a severe bite on my shoulder. I imagined an ant had bitten + me through my shirt. In a moment or so afterward I received, this + time on my breast, another bite that left no room for + imagination. There was some kind of an animal inside my shirt, + and one that made a mosquito, black-fly, or flea seem tame.</p> + + <p>Suddenly a thought swept on the heels of my indolent and + rather annoying realization. Could I have gotten from the Navajo + what Jim and Jones so characteristically called "'em"? I turned + cold all over. And on the very instant I received another bite + that burned like fire.</p> + + <p>The return of my companions prevented any open demonstration + of my fears and condition of mind, but I certainly swore + inwardly. During the dinner hour I felt all the time as if I had + on a horsehair shirt with the ends protruding toward my skin, + and, in the exaggerated sensitiveness of the moment, made sure + "'em" were chasing up and down my back.</p> + + <p>After dinner I sneaked off into the woods. I remembered that + Emett had said there was only one way to get rid of "'em," and + that was to disrobe and make a microscopical search of garments + and person. With serious mind and murderous intent I undressed. + In the middle of the back of my jersey I discovered several long, + uncanny, gray things.</p> + + <p>"I guess I got 'em," I said gravely.</p> + + <p>Then I sat on a pine log in a state of unadorned nature, + oblivious to all around, intent only on the massacre of the + things that had violated me. How much time flew I could not + guess. Great loud "Haw-haws!" roused me to consternation. There + behind me stood Jones and Emett shaking as if with the ague.</p> + + <p>"It's not funny!" I shouted in a rage. I had the unreasonable + suspicion that they had followed me to see my humiliation. Jones, + who cracked a smile about as often as the equinoxes came, and + Emett the sober Mormon, laughed until they cried.</p> + + <p>"I was—just wondering—what your folks + would—think—if they—saw you—now," gurgled + Jones.</p> + + <p>That brought to me the humor of the thing, and I joined in + their mirth.</p> + + <p>"All I hope is that you fellows will get 'em' too," I + said.</p> + + <p>"The Good Lord preserve me from that particular breed of + Navvy's," cried Emett.</p> + + <p>Jones wriggled all over at the mere suggestion. Now so much + from the old plainsman, who had confessed to intimate relations + with every creeping, crawling thing in the West, attested + powerfully to the unforgettable singularity of what I got from + Navvy.</p> + + <p>I returned to camp determined to make the best of the + situation, which owing to my failure to catch all of the gray + devils, remained practically unchanged. Jim had been acquainted + with my dilemma, as was manifest in his wet eyes and broad grin + with which he greeted me.</p> + + <p>"I think I'd scalp the Navvy," he said.</p> + + <p>"You make the Indian sleep outside after this, snow or no + snow," was Jones' suggestion.</p> + + <p>"No I won't; I won't show a yellow streak like that. Besides, + I want to give 'em to you fellows."</p> + + <p>A blank silence followed my statement, to which Jim + replied:</p> + + <p>"Shore that'll be easy; Jones'll have 'em, so'll Emett, an' by + thunder I'm scratchin' now."</p> + + <p>"Navvy, look here," I said severely, "mucha no bueno! heap + bad! You—me!" here I scratched myself and made signs that a + wooden Indian would have understood.</p> + + <p>"Me savvy," he replied, sullenly, then flared up. "Heap big + lie."</p> + + <p>He turned on his heel, erect, dignified, and walked away amid + the roars of my gleeful comrades.</p> + + <center> + IX + </center> + + <p>One by one my companions sought their blankets, leaving the + shadows, the dying embers, the slow-rising moan of the night wind + to me. Old Moze got up from among the other hounds and limped + into my tent, where I heard him groan as he lay down. Don, + Sounder, and Ranger were fast asleep in well-earned rest. Shep, + one of the pups, whined and impatiently tossed his short chain. + Remembering that he had not been loose all day, I unbuckled his + collar and let him go.</p> + + <p>He licked my hand, stretched and shook himself, lifted his + shapely, sleek head and sniffed the wind. He trotted around the + circle cast by the fire and looked out into the darkening + shadows. It was plain that Shep's instincts were developing fast; + he was ambitious to hunt. But sure in my belief that he was + afraid of the black night and would stay in camp, I went to + bed.</p> + + <p>The Navajo who slept with me snored serenely and Moze growled + in his dreams; the wind swept through the pines with an + intermittent rush. Some time in the after part of the night I + heard a distant sound. Remote, mournful, wild, it sent a chill + creeping over me. Borne faintly to my ears, it was a fit + accompaniment to the moan of the wind in the pines. It was not + the cry of a trailing wolf, nor the lonesome howl of a prowling + coyote, nor the strange, low sound, like a cough, of a hunting + cougar, though it had a semblance of all three. It was the bay of + a hound, thinned out by distance, and it served to keep me wide + awake. But for a while, what with the roar and swell of the wind + and Navvy's snores, I could hear it only at long intervals.</p> + + <p>Still, in the course of an hour, I followed the sound, or + imagined so, from a point straight in line with my feet to one at + right angles with my head. Finally deciding it came from Shep, + and fancying he was trailing a deer or coyote, I tried to go to + sleep again.</p> + + <p>In this I would have succeeded had not, all at once, our + captive lions begun to growl. That ominous, low murmuring awoke + me with a vengeance, for it was unusual for them to growl in the + middle of the night. I wondered if they, as well as the pup, had + gotten the scent of a prowling lion.</p> + + <p>I reached down to my feet and groped in the dark for Moze. + Finding him, I gave him a shake. The old gladiator groaned, + stirred, and came out of what must have been dreams of hunting + meat. He slapped his tail against my bed. As luck would have it, + just then the wind abated to a soft moan, and clear and sharp + came the bay of a hound. Moze heard it, for he stopped wagging + his tail, his body grew tense under my hand, and he vented his + low, deep grumble.</p> + + <p>I lay there undecided. To wake my companions was hardly to be + considered, and to venture off into the forest alone, where old + Sultan might be scouting, was not exactly to my taste. And trying + to think what to do, and listening for the bay of the pup, and + hearing mostly the lions growling and the wind roaring, I fell + asleep.</p> + + <p>"Hey! are you ever going to get up?" some one yelled into my + drowsy brain. I roused and opened my eyes. The yellow, flickering + shadows on the wall of my tent told me that the sun had long + risen. I found my companions finishing breakfast. The first thing + I did was to look over the dogs. Shep, the black-and-white pup, + was missing.</p> + + <p>"Where's Shep?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Shore, I ain't seen him this mornin'," replied Jim.</p> + + <p>Thereupon I told what I had heard during the night.</p> + + <p>"Everybody listen," said Jones.</p> + + <p>We quieted down and sat like statues. A gentle, cool breeze, + barely moving the pine tips, had succeeded the night wind. The + sound of horses munching their oats, and an occasional clink, + rattle, and growl from the lions did not drown the faint but + unmistakable yelps of a pup.</p> + + <p>"South, toward the canyon," said Jim, as Jones got up.</p> + + <p>"Now, it'd be funny if that little Shep, just to get even with + me for tying him up so often, has treed a lion all by himself," + commented Jones. "And I'll bet that's just what he's done."</p> + + <p>He called the hounds about him and hurried westward through + the forest.</p> + + <p>"Shore, it might be." Jim shook his head knowingly. "I reckon + it's only a rabbit, but anythin' might happen in this place."</p> + + <p>I finished breakfast and went into my tent for + something—I forget what, for wild yells from Emett and Jim + brought me flying out again.</p> + + <p>"Listen to that!" cried Jim, pointing west.</p> + + <p>The hounds had opened up; their full, wild chorus floated + clearly on the breeze, and above it Jones' stentorian yell + signaled us.</p> + + <p>"Shore, the old man can yell," continued Jim. "Grab your + lassos an' hump yourselves. I've got the collar an' chain."</p> + + <p>"Come on, Navvy," shouted Emett. He grasped the Indian's wrist + and started to run, jerking Navvy into the air at every jump. I + caught up my camera and followed. We crossed two shallow hollows, + and then saw the hounds and Jones among the pines not far + ahead.</p> + + <p>In my excitement I outran my companions and dashed into an + open glade. First I saw Jones waving his long arms; next the + dogs, noses upward, and Don actually standing on his hind legs; + then a dead pine with a well-known tawny shape outlined against + the blue sky.</p> + + <p>"Hurrah for Shep!" I yelled, and right vigorously did my + comrades join in.</p> + + <p>"It's another female," said Jones, when we calmed down, "and + fair sized. That's the best tree for our purpose that I ever saw + a lion in. So spread out, boys; surround her and keep noisy."</p> + + <p>Navvy broke from Emett at this juncture and ran away. But + evidently overcome by curiosity, he stopped to hide behind a + bush, from which I saw his black head protruding.</p> + + <p>When Jones swung himself on the first stubby branch of the + pine, the lioness, some fifteen feet above, leaped to another + limb, and the one she had left cracked, swayed and broke. It fell + directly upon Jones, the blunt end striking his head and knocking + him out of the tree. Fortunately, he landed on his feet; + otherwise there would surely have been bones broken. He appeared + stunned, and reeled so that Emett caught him. The blood poured + from a wound in his head.</p> + + <p>This sudden shock sobered us instantly. On examination we + found a long, jagged cut in Jones' scalp. We bathed it with water + from my canteen and with snow Jim procured from a nearby hollow, + eventually stopping the bleeding. I insisted on Jones coming to + camp to have the wound properly dressed, and he insisted on + having it bound with a bandana; after which he informed us that + he was going to climb the tree again.</p> + + <p>We objected to this. Each of us declared his willingness to go + up and rope the lion; but Jones would not hear of it.</p> + + <p>"I'm not doubting your courage," he said. "It's only that you + cannot tell what move the lion would make next, and that's the + danger."</p> + + <p>We could not gainsay this, and as not one of us wanted to kill + the animal or let her go, Jones had his way. So he went up the + tree, passed the first branch and then another. The lioness + changed her position, growled, spat, clawed the twigs, tried to + keep the tree trunk between her and Jones, and at length got out + on a branch in a most favorable position for roping.</p> + + <p>The first cast of the lasso did the business, and Jim and + Emett with nimble fingers tied up the hounds.</p> + + <p>"Coming," shouted Jones. He slid down, hand over hand, on the + rope, the lioness holding his weight with apparent ease.</p> + + <p>"Make your noose ready," he yelled to Emett.</p> + + <p>I had to drop my camera to help Jones and Jim pull the animal + from her perch. The branches broke in a shower; then the lioness, + hissing, snarling, whirling, plunged down. She nearly jerked the + rope out of our hands, but we lowered her to Emett, who noosed + her hind paws in a flash.</p> + + <p>"Make fast your rope," shouted Jones. "There, that's good! Now + let her down—easy."</p> + + <p>As soon as the lioness touched ground we let go the lasso, + which whipped up and over the branch. She became a round, yellow, + rapidly moving ball. Emett was the first to catch the loose + lasso, and he checked the rolling cougar. Jones leaped to assist + him and the two of them straightened out the struggling animal, + while Jim swung another noose at her. On the second throw he + caught a front paw.</p> + + <p>"Pull hard! Stretch her out!" yelled Jones. He grasped a stout + piece of wood and pushed it at the lioness. She caught it in her + mouth, making the splinters fly. Jones shoved her head back on + the ground and pressed his brawny knee on the bar of wood.</p> + + <p>"The collar! The collar! Quick!" he called.</p> + + <p>I threw chain and collar to him, which in a moment he had + buckled round her neck.</p> + + <p>"There, we've got her!" he said. "It's only a short way over + to camp, so we'll drag her without muzzling."</p> + + <p>As he rose the lioness lurched, and reaching him, fastened her + fangs in his leg. Jones roared. Emett and Jim yelled. And I, + though frightened, was so obsessed with the idea of getting a + picture that I began to fumble with the shutter of my camera.</p> + + <p>"Grab the chain! Pull her off!" bawled Jones.</p> + + <p>I ran in, took up the chain with both hands, and tugged with + all my might. Emett, too, had all his weight on the lasso round + her neck. Between the two of us we choked her hold loose, but she + brought Jones' leather leggin in her teeth. Then I dropped the + chain and jumped.</p> + + <p>"**— **—!" exploded Jones to me. "Do you think + more of a picture than of saving my life?" Having expressed this + not unreasonable protest, he untied the lasso that Emett had made + fast to a small sapling.</p> + + <p>Then the three men, forming points of a triangle around an + animated center, began a march through the forest that for + variety of action and splendid vociferation beat any show I ever + beheld.</p> + + <p>So rare was it that the Navajo came out of his retreat and, + straightway forgetting his reverence and fear, began to execute a + ghost-dance, or war-dance, or at any rate some kind of an Indian + dance, along the side lines.</p> + + <p>There were moments when the lioness had Jim and Jones on the + ground and Emett wobbling; others when she ran on her bound legs + and chased the two in front and dragged the one behind; others + when she came within an ace of getting her teeth in somebody.</p> + + <p>They had caught a Tartar. They dared not let her go, and + though Jones evidently ordered it, no one made fast his rope to a + tree. There was no opportunity. She was in the air three parts of + the time and the fourth she was invisible for dust. The lassos + were each thirty feet long, but even with that the men could just + barely keep out of her reach.</p> + + <p>Then came the climax, as it always comes in a lion hunt, + unerringly, unexpectedly, and with lightning swiftness. The three + men were nearing the bottom of the second hollow, well spread + out, lassos taut, facing one another. Jones stumbled and the + lioness leaped his way. The weight of both brought Jim over, + sliding and slipping, with his rope slackening. The leap of the + lioness carried her within reach of Jones; and as he raised + himself, back toward her, she reached a big paw for him just as + Emett threw all his bull strength and bulk on his lasso.</p> + + <p>The seat of Jones' trousers came away with the lioness' claws. + Then she fell backward, overcome by Emett's desperate lunge. + Jones sprang up with the velocity of an Arab tumbler, and his + scarlet face, working spasmodically, and his moving lips, showed + how utterly unable he was to give expression to his rage. I had a + stitch in my side that nearly killed me, but laugh I had to + though I should die for it.</p> + + <p>No laughing matter was it for them. They volleyed and + thundered back and forth meaningless words of which "hell" was + the only one distinguishable, and probably the word that best + described their situation.</p> + + <p>All the while, however, they had been running from the + lioness, which brought them before they realized it right into + camp. Our captive lions cut up fearfully at the hubbub, and the + horses stampeded in terror.</p> + + <p>"Whoa!" yelled Jones, whether to his companions or to the + struggling cougar, no one knew. But Navvy thought Jones addressed + the cougar.</p> + + <p>"Whoa!" repeated Navvy. "No savvy whoa! No savvy whoa!" which + proved conclusively that the Navajo had understanding as well as + wit.</p> + + <p>Soon we had another captive safely chained and growling away + in tune with the others. I went back to untie the hounds, to find + them sulky and out of sorts from being so unceremoniously + treated. They noisily trailed the lioness into camp, where, + finding her chained, they formed a ring around her.</p> + + <p>Thereafter the day passed in round-the-camp-fire chat and + task. For once Jim looked at Navvy with toleration. We dressed + the wound in Jones' head and laughed at the condition of his + trousers and at his awkward attempts to piece them.</p> + + <p>"Mucha dam cougie," remarked Navvy. "No savvy whoa!"</p> + + <p>The lions growled all day. And Jones kept repeating: "To think + how Shep fooled me!"</p> + + <center> + X + </center> + + <p>Next morning Jones was out bright and early, yelling at Navvy + to hurry with the horses, calling to the hounds and lions, just + as usual.</p> + + <p>Navvy had finally come to his full share of praise from all of + us. Even Jim acknowledged that the Indian was invaluable to a + hunting party in a country where grass and water were hard to + find and wild horses haunted the trails.</p> + + <p>"<i>Tohodena! Tohodena!</i> (hurry! hurry!)" said Navvy, + mimicking Jones that morning.</p> + + <p>As we sat down to breakfast he loped off into the forest and + before we got up the bells of the horses were jingling in the + hollow.</p> + + <p>"I believe it's going to be cloudy," said Jones, "and if so we + can hunt all day."</p> + + <p>We rode down the ridge to the left of Middle Canyon, and had + trouble with the hounds all the way. First they ran foul of a + coyote, which was the one and only beast they could not resist. + Spreading out to head them off, we separated. I cut into a hollow + and rode to its head, where I went up. I heard the hounds and + presently saw a big, white coyote making fast time through the + forest glades. It looked as if he would cross close in front of + me, so I pulled Foxie to a standstill, jumped off and knelt with + my rifle ready. But the sharp-eyed coyote saw my horse and shied + off. I had not much hope to hit him so far away, and the five + bullets I sent after him, singing and zipping, served only to + make him run faster. I mounted Foxie and intercepted the hounds + coming up sharply on the trail, and turned them toward my + companions, now hallooing from the ridge below.</p> + + <p>Then the pack lost a good hour on several lion tracks that + were a day old, and for such trails we had no time. We reached + the cedars however at seven o'clock, and as the sky was overcast + with low dun-colored clouds and the air cool, we were sure it was + not too late.</p> + + <p>One of the capes of the plateau between Middle and Left Canyon + was a narrow strip of rock, covered with a dense cedar growth and + cut up into smaller canyons, all running down inevitably toward + the great canyon. With but a single bark to warn us, Don got out + of our sight and hearing; and while we split to look and call for + him the remainder of the pack found the lion trail that he had + gone on, and they left us trying to find a way out as well as to + find each other. I kept the hounds in hearing for some time and + meanwhile I signalled to Emett who was on my right flank. Jones + and Jim might as well have vanished off the globe for all I could + see or hear of them. A deep, narrow gully into which I had to + lead Foxie and carefully coax him out took so much time that when + I once more reached a level I could not hear the hounds or get an + answer to my signal cry.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!" I called again.</p> + + <p>Away on the dry rarified air pealed the cry, piercing the + cedar forest, splitting sharp in the vaulted canyons, rolling + loud and long, to lose power, to die away in muffling echo. But + the silence returned no answer.</p> + + <p>I rode on under the cedars, through a dark, gloomy forest, + silent, almost spectral, which brought irresistibly to my mind + the words "I found me in a gloomy wood astray." I was lost though + I knew the direction of the camp. This section of cedar forest + was all but impenetrable. Dead cedars were massed in gray + tangles, live cedars, branches touching the ground, grew close + together. In this labyrinth I lost my bearings. I turned and + turned, crossed my own back trail, which in desperation I + followed, coming out of the cedars at the deep and narrow + canyon.</p> + + <p>Here I fired my revolver. The echo boomed out like the report + of heavy artillery, but no answering shot rewarded me. There was + no alternative save to wander along the canyon and through the + cedars until I found my companions. This I began to do, disgusted + with my awkwardness in losing them. Turning Foxie westward I had + scarcely gotten under way when Don came trotting toward me.</p> + + <p>"Hello, old boy!" I called. Don appeared as happy to see me as + I was to see him. He flopped down on the ground; his dripping + tongue rolled as he panted; covered with dust and flecked with + light froth he surely looked to be a tired hound.</p> + + <p>"All in, eh Don!" I said dismounting. "Well, we'll rest + awhile." Then I discovered blood on his nose, which I found to + have come from a deep scratch. "A—ah! been pushing a lion + too hard this morning? Got your nose scratched, didn't you? You + great, crazy hound, don't you know some day you'll chase your + last lion?"</p> + + <p>Don wagged his tail as if to say he knew it all very well. I + wet my handkerchief from my canteen and started to wash the blood + and dust from his nose, when he whined and licked my fingers.</p> + + <p>"Thirsty?" I asked, sitting down beside him. Denting the top + of my hat I poured in as much water as it would hold and gave him + to drink. Four times he emptied my improvised cup before he was + satisfied. Then with a sigh of relief he lay down again.</p> + + <p>The three of us rested there for perhaps half an hour, Don and + I sitting quietly on the wall of the canyon, while Foxie browsed + on occasional tufts of grass. During that time the hound never + raised his sleek, dark head, which showed conclusively the nature + of the silence. And now that I had company—as good company + as any hunter ever had—I was once more contented.</p> + + <p>Don got up, at length of his own volition and with a wag of + his tail set off westward along the rim. Remounting my mustang I + kept as close to Don's heels as the rough going permitted. The + hound, however, showed no disposition to hurry, and I let him + have his way without a word.</p> + + <p>We came out in the notch of the great amphitheater or curve we + had named the Bay, and I saw again the downward slope, the bold + steps, the color and depth below.</p> + + <p>I was just about to yell a signal cry when I saw Don, with + hair rising stiff, run forward. He took a dozen jumps, then + yelping broke down the steep, yellow and green gorge. He + disappeared before I knew what had happened.</p> + + <p>Shortly I found a lion track, freshly made, leading down. I + believed I could follow wherever Don led, so I decided to go + after him. I tied Foxie securely, removed my coat, kicked off + spurs and chaps, and remembering past unnecessary toil, fastened + a red bandana to the top of a dead snag to show me where to come + up on my way out. Then I carefully strapped my canteen and camera + on my back, made doubly secure my revolver, put on my heavy + gloves, and started down. And I realized at once that only so + lightly encumbered should I have ever ventured down the + slope.</p> + + <p>Little benches of rock, grassy on top, with here and there + cedar trees, led steeply down for perhaps five hundred feet. A + precipice stopped me. From it I heard Don baying below, and + almost instantly saw the yellow gleam of a lion in a + tree-top.</p> + + <p>"Hi! Hi! Hi! Hi! Hi!" I yelled in wild encouragement.</p> + + <p>I felt it would be wise to look before I leaped. The Bay lay + under me, a mile wide where it opened into the great slumbering + smoky canyon. All below was chaos of splintered stone and slope, + green jumble of cedar, ruined, detached, sliding, standing cliff + walls, leaning yellow crags—an awful hole. But I could get + down, and that was all I cared for. I ran along to the left, + jumping cracks, bounding over the uneven stones with sure, swift + feet, and came to where the cliff ended in weathered slope and + scaly bench.</p> + + <p>It was like a game, going down that canyon. My heavy nailed + boots struck fire from the rocks. My heavy gloves protected my + hands as I slid and hung on and let go. I outfooted the + avalanches and wherever I came to a scaly slope or bank or + decayed rock, I leaped down in sheer delight.</p> + + <p>But all too soon my progress was barred; once under the cliff + I found only a gradual slope and many obstacles to go round or + surmount. Luck favored me, for I ran across a runway and keeping + to it made better time. I heard Don long before I tried to see + him, and yelled at intervals to let him know I was coming. A + white bank of weathered stones led down to a clump of cedars from + where Don's bay came spurring me to greater efforts. I flew down + this bank, and through an opening saw the hound standing with + fore feet against a cedar. The branches over him swayed, and I + saw an indistinct, tawny form move downward in the air. Then + succeeded the crash and rattle of stones. Don left the tree and + disappeared.</p> + + <p>I dashed down, dodged under the cedars, threaded a maze of + rocks, to find myself in a ravine with a bare, water-worn floor. + In patches of sand showed the fresh tracks of Don and the lion. + Running down this dry, clean bed was the easiest going I ever + found in the canyon. Every rod the course jumped in a fall from + four to ten feet, often more, and these I slid down. How I ever + kept Don in hearing was a marvel, but still I did.</p> + + <p>The lion evidently had no further intention of taking to a + tree. From the size of his track I concluded he was old and I + feared every moment to hear the sounds of a fight. Jones had said + that nearly always in the case of one hound chasing an old lion, + the lion would lie in wait for him and kill him. And I was afraid + for Don.</p> + + <p>Down, down, down, we went, till the yellow rim above seemed a + thin band of gold. I saw that we were almost to the canyon + proper, and I wondered what would happen when we reached it. The + dark shaded watercourse suddenly shot out into bright light and + ended in a deep cove, with perpendicular walls fifty feet high. I + could see where a few rods farther on this cove opened into a + huge, airy, colored canyon.</p> + + <p>I called the hound, wondering if he had gone to the right or + left of the cove. His bay answered me coming from the cedars far + to the right. I turned with all the speed left in me, for I felt + the chase nearing an end. Tracks of hound and lion once more + showed in the dust. The slope was steep and stones I sent rolling + cracked down below. Soon I had a cliff above me and had to go + slow and cautiously. A misstep or slide would have precipitated + me into the cove.</p> + + <p>Almost before I knew what I was about, I stood gasping on the + gigantic second wall of the canyon, with nothing but thin air + under me, except, far below, faint and indistinct purple clefts, + red ridges, dotted slopes, running down to merge in a dark, + winding strip of water, that was the Rio Colorado. A sullen + murmur soared out of the abyss.</p><a name="image-0040"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg035_m.jpg" width="448" height="706" alt= + "Two Lions in One Tree "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0041"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg036_m.jpg" width="709" height="448" alt= + "Jones, Emett, and the Navajo With The Lions "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>The coloring of my mood changed. Never had the canyon struck + me so terribly with its illimitable space, its dread depth, its + unscalable cliffs, and particularly with the desolate, forbidding + quality of its silence.</p> + + <p>I heard Don bark. Turning the corner of the cliff wall I saw + him on a narrow shelf. He was coming toward me and when he + reached me he faced again to the wall and barked fiercely. The + hair on his neck bristled. I knew he did not fancy that narrow + strip of rock, nor did I. But a sudden, grim, cold something had + taken possession of me, and I stepped forward.</p> + + <p>"Come on, Don, old fellow, we've got him corralled."</p> + + <p>That was the first instance I ever knew of Don's hesitation in + the chase of a lion. I had to coax him to me. But once started he + took the lead and I closely followed.</p> + + <p>The shelf was twenty feet wide and upon it close to the wall, + in the dust, were the deep imprints of the lion. A jutting corner + of cliff wall hid my view. I peeped around it. The shelf narrowed + on the other side to a yard in width, and climbed gradually by + broken steps. Don passed the corner, looked back to see if I was + coming and went on. He did this four times, once even stopping to + wait for me.</p> + + <p>"I'm with you Don!" I grimly muttered. "We'll see this trail + out to a finish."</p> + + <p>I had now no eyes for the wonders of the place, though I could + not but see as I bent a piercing gaze ahead the ponderous + overhanging wall above, and sense the bottomless depth below. I + felt rather than saw the canyon swallows, sweeping by in darting + flight, with soft rustle of wings, and I heard the shrill chirp + of some strange cliff inhabitant.</p> + + <p>Don ceased barking. How strange that seemed to me! We were no + longer man and hound, but companions, brothers, each one relying + on the other. A protruding corner shut us from sight of what was + beyond. Don slipped around. I had to go sidewise and shuddered as + my fingers bit into the wall.</p> + + <p>To my surprise I soon found myself on the floor of a shallow + wind cave. The lion trail led straight across it and on. Shelves + of rock stuck out above under which I hurriedly walked. I came + upon a shrub cedar growing in a niche and marveled to see it + there. Don went slower and slower.</p> + + <p>We suddenly rounded a point, to see the lion lying in a + box-like space in the wall. The shelf ended there. I had once + before been confronted with a like situation, and had expected to + find it here, so was not frightened. The lion looked up from his + task of licking a bloody paw, and uttered a fierce growl. His + tail began to lash to and fro; it knocked the little stones off + the shelf. I heard them click on the wall. Again and again he + spat, showing great, white fangs. He was a Tom, heavy and + large.</p> + + <p>It had been my purpose, of course, to photograph this lion, + and now that we had cornered him I proposed to do it. What would + follow had only hazily formed in my mind, but the nucleus of it + was that he should go free. I got my camera, opened it, and + focused from between twenty and twenty-five feet.</p> + + <p>Then a growl from Don and roar from the lion bade me come to + my senses. I did so and my first movement after seeing the lion + had risen threateningly was to whip out my revolver.</p> + + <p>The lion's cruel yellow eyes darkened and darkened. In an + instant I saw my error. Jones had always said in case any one of + us had to face a lion, never for a single instant to shift his + glance. I had forgotten that, and in that short interval when I + focused my camera the lion had seen I meant him no harm, or + feared him, and he had risen. Even then in desperate lessening + ambition for a great picture I attempted to take one, still + keeping my glance on him.</p> + + <p>It was then that the appalling nature of my predicament made + itself plain to me. The lion leaped ten feet and stood snarling + horribly right in my face.</p> + + <p>Brave, noble Don, with infinitely more sense and courage than + I possessed, faced the lion and bayed him in his teeth. I raised + the revolver and aimed twice, each time lowering it because I + feared to shoot in such a precarious position. To wound the lion + would be the worst thing I could do, and I knew that only a shot + through the brain would kill him in his tracks.</p> + + <p>"Hold him, Don, hold him!" I yelled, and I took a backward + step. The lion put forward one big paw, his eyes now all purple + blaze. I backed again and he came forward. Don gave ground + slowly. Once the lion flashed a yellow paw at him. It was + frightful to see the wide-spread claws.</p> + + <p>In the consternation of the moment I allowed the lion to back + me across the front of the wind cave, where I saw, the moment it + was too late, I should have taken advantage of more space to + shoot him.</p> + + <p>Fright succeeded consternation, and I began to tremble. The + lion was master of the situation. What would happen when I came + to the narrow point on the shelf where it would be impossible for + me to back around? I almost fainted. The thought of heroic Don + saved me, and the weak moment passed.</p> + + <p>"By God, Don, you've got the nerve, and I must have it + too!"</p> + + <p>I stopped in my tracks. The lion, appearing huge now, took + slow catlike steps toward me, backing Don almost against my + knees. He was so close I smelt him. His wonderful eyes, clear + blue fire circled by yellow flame, fascinated me. Hugging the + wall with my body I brought the revolver up, short armed, and + with clinched teeth, and nerve strained to the breaking point, I + aimed between the eyes and pulled the trigger.</p> + + <p>The left eye seemed to go out blankly, then followed the + bellow of the revolver and the smell of powder. The lion uttered + a sound that was a mingling of snarls, howls and roars and he + rose straight up, towering high over my head, beating the wall + heavily with his paws.</p> + + <p>In helpless terror I stood there forgetting weapon, fearing + only the beast would fall over on me.</p> + + <p>But in death agony he bounded out from the wall to fall into + space.</p> + + <p>I sank down on the shelf, legs powerless, body in cold sweat. + As I waited, slowly my mind freed itself from a tight iron band + and a sickening relief filled my soul. Tensely I waited and + listened. Don whined once.</p> + + <p>Would the lion never strike? What seemed a long period of time + ended in a low, distant roar of sliding rock, quickly dying into + the solemn stillness of the canyon.</p> + + <center> + XI + </center> + + <p>I lay there for some moments slowly recovering, eyes on the + far distant escarpments, now darkly red and repellent to me. When + I got up my legs were still shaky and I had the strange, weak + sensation of a long bed-ridden invalid. Three attempts were + necessary before I could trust myself on the narrow strip of + shelf. But once around it with the peril passed, I braced up and + soon reached the turn in the wall.</p> + + <p>After that the ascent out of the Bay was only a matter of + work, which I gave with a will. Don did not evince any desire for + more hunting that day. We reached the rim together, and after a + short rest, I mounted my horse, and we turned for camp.</p> + + <p>The sun had long slanted toward the western horizon when I saw + the blue smoke of our camp-fire among the pines. The hounds rose + up and barked as Don trotted in to the blaze, and my companions + just sitting to a dinner, gave me a noisy greeting.</p> + + <p>"Shore, we'd began to get worried," said Jim. "We all had it + comin' to us to-day, and don't you forget that."</p> + + <p>Dinner lasted for a long hour. Besides being half famished we + all took time between bites to talk. I told my story first, + expecting my friends to be overwhelmed, but they were not.</p> + + <p>"It's been the greatest day of lion hunting that I ever + experienced," declared Jones. "We ran bang into a nest of lions + and they split. We all split and the hounds split. That tells the + tale. We have nothing to show for our day's toil. Six lions + chased, rounded up, treed, holed, and one lion killed, and we + haven't even his skin to show. I did not go down but I helped + Ranger and two of the pups chase a lion all over the lower end of + the plateau. We treed him twice and I yelled for you fellows till + my voice was gone."</p> + + <p>"Well," said Emett, "I fell in with Sounder and Jude. They + were hot on a trail which in a mile or two turned up this way. I + came on them just at the edge of the pines where they had treed + their game. I sat under that pine tree for five hours, fired all + my shots to make you fellows come, yelled myself hoarse and then + tried to tie up the lion alone. He jumped out and ran over the + rim, where neither I nor the dogs could follow."</p> + + <p>"Shore, I win, three of a kind," drawled Jim, as he got his + pipe and carefully dusted the bowl. "When the stampede came, I + got my hands on Moze and held him. I held Moze because just as + the other hounds broke loose over to my right, I saw down into a + little pocket where a fresh-killed deer lay half eaten. So I went + down. I found two other carcasses layin' there, fresh killed last + night, flesh all gone, hide gone, bones crushed, skull split + open. An' damn me fellows, if that little pocket wasn't all torn + to pieces. The sage was crushed flat. The ground dug up, dead + snags broken, and blood and hair everywhere. Lion tracks like + leaves, and old Sultan's was there. I let Moze loose and he + humped the trail of several lions south over the rim. Major got + down first an' came back with his tail between his legs. Moze + went down and I kept close to him. It wasn't far down, but steep + and rocky, full of holes. Moze took the trail to a dark cave. I + saw the tracks of three lions goin' in. Then I collared Moze an' + waited for you fellows. I waited there all day, an' nobody came + to my call. Then I made for camp."</p> + + <p>"How do you account for the torn-up appearance of the place + where you found the carcasses?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Lion fight sure," replied Jones. "Maybe old Sultan ran across + the three lions feeding, and pitched into them. Such fights were + common among the lions in Yellowstone Park when I was there."</p> + + <p>"What chance have we to find those three lions in a cave where + Jim chased them?"</p> + + <p>"We stand a good chance," said Jones. "Especially if it storms + to-night."</p> + + <p>"Shore the snow storm is comin'," returned Jim.</p> + + <p>Darkness clapped down on us suddenly, and the wind roared in + the pines like a mighty river tearing its way down a rocky pass. + As we could not control the camp-fire, sparks of which blew + fiercely, we extinguished it and went to bed. I had just settled + myself comfortably to be sung to sleep by the concert in the + pines, when Jones hailed me.</p> + + <p>"Say, what do you think?" he yelled, when I had answered him. + "Emett is mad. He's scratching to beat the band. He's got + 'em."</p> + + <p>I signalled his information with a loud whoop of victory.</p> + + <p>"You next, Jones! They're coming to you!"</p> + + <p>I heard him grumble over my happy anticipation. Jim laughed + and so did the Navajo, which made me suspect that he could + understand more English than he wanted us to suppose.</p> + + <p>Next morning a merry yell disturbed my slumbers. "Snowed + in—snowed in!"</p> + + <p>"Mucha snow—discass—no cougie—dam no bueno!" + exclaimed Navvy.</p> + + <p>When I peeped out to see the forest in the throes of a + blinding blizzard, the great pines only pale, grotesque shadows, + everything white mantled in a foot of snow, I emphasized the + Indian words in straight English.</p> + + <p>"Much snow—cold—no cougar—bad!"</p> + + <p>"Stay in bed," yelled Jones.</p> + + <p>"All right," I replied. "Say Jones, have you got 'em yet?"</p> + + <p>He vouchsafed me no answer. I went to sleep then and dozed off + and on till noon, when the storm abated. We had dinner, or rather + breakfast, round a blazing bonfire.</p> + + <p>"It's going to clear up," said Jim.</p> + + <p>The forest around us was a somber and gloomy place. The cloud + that had enveloped the plateau lifted and began to move. It hit + the tree tops, sometimes rolling almost to the ground, then + rising above the trees. At first it moved slowly, rolling, + forming, expanding, blooming like a column of whirling gray + smoke; then it gathered headway and rolled onward through the + forest. A gray, gloomy curtain, moving and rippling, split by the + trees, seemed to be passing over us. It rose higher and higher, + to split up in great globes, to roll apart, showing glimpses of + blue sky.</p> + + <p>Shafts of golden sunshine shot down from these rifts, + dispelling the shadows and gloom, moving in paths of gold through + the forest glade, gleaming with brilliantly colored fire from the + snow-wreathed pines.</p> + + <p>The cloud rolled away and the sun shone hot. The trees began + to drip. A mist of diamonds filled the air, rainbows curved + through every glade and feathered patches of snow floated + down.</p> + + <p>A great bank of snow, sliding from the pine overhead almost + buried the Navajo, to our infinite delight. We all sought the + shelter of the tents, and sleep again claimed us.</p> + + <p>I awoke about five o'clock. The sun was low, making crimson + paths in the white aisles of the forest. A cold wind promised a + frosty morning.</p> + + <p>"To-morrow will be the day for lions," exclaimed Jones.</p> + + <p>While we hugged the fire, Navvy brought up the horses and gave + them their oats. The hounds sought their shelter and the lions + lay hidden in their beds of pine. The round red sun dropped out + of sight beyond the trees, a pink glow suffused all the ridges; + blue shadows gathered in the hollow, shaded purple and stole + upward. A brief twilight succeeded to a dark, coldly starlit + night.</p> + + <p>Once again, when I had crawled into the warm hole of my + sleeping bag, was I hailed from the other tent.</p> + + <p>Emett called me twice, and as I answered, I heard Jones + remonstrating in a low voice.</p> + + <p>"Shore, Jones has got 'em!" yelled Jim. "He can't keep it a + secret no longer."</p> + + <p>"Hey, Jones," I cried, "do you remember laughing at me?"</p> + + <p>"No, I don't," growled Jones.</p> + + <p>"Listen to this: Haw-haw! haw! haw! ho-ho! ho-ho! bueno! + bueno!" and I wound up with a string of "hi! hi! hi! hi! hi!"</p> + + <p>The hounds rose up in a body and began to yelp.</p> + + <p>"Lie down, pups," I called to them. "Nothing doing for you. + It's only Jones has got 'em."</p> + + <center> + XII + </center> + + <p>When we trooped out of the pines next morning, the sun, rising + gloriously bright, had already taken off the keen edge of the + frosty air, presaging a warm day. The white ridges glistened; the + bunches of sage scintillated, and the cedars, tipped in snow, + resembled trees with brilliant blossoms.</p> + + <p>We lost no time riding for the mouth of Left Canyon, into + which Jim had trailed the three lions. On the way the snow, as we + had expected, began to thin out, and it failed altogether under + the cedars, though there was enough on the branches to give us a + drenching.</p> + + <p>Jim reined in on the verge of a narrow gorge, and informed us + the cave was below. Jones looked the ground over and said Jim had + better take the hounds down while the rest of us remained above + to await developments.</p> + + <p>Jim went down on foot, calling the hounds and holding them + close. We listened eagerly for him to yell or the pack to open + up, but we were disappointed. In less than half an hour Jim came + climbing out, with the information that the lions had left the + cave, probably the evening after he had chased them there.</p> + + <p>"Well, then," said Jones, "let's split the pack, and hunt + round the rims of these canyons. We can signal to each other if + necessary."</p> + + <p>So we arranged for Jim to take Ranger and the pups across Left + Canyon; Emett to try Middle Canyon, with Don and Moze, and we + were to perform a like office in Right Canyon with Sounder and + Jude. Emett rode back with us, leaving us where we crossed Middle + Canyon.</p> + + <p>Jones and I rimmed a mile of our canyon and worked out almost + to the west end of the Bay, without finding so much as a single + track, so we started to retrace our way. The sun was now hot; the + snow all gone; the ground dry as if it had never been damp; and + Jones grumbled that no success would attend our efforts this + morning.</p> + + <p>We reached the ragged mouth of Right Canyon, where it opened + into the deep, wide Bay, and because we hoped to hear our + companions across the canyon, we rode close to the rim. Sounder + and Jude both began to bark on a cliff; however, as we could find + no tracks in the dust we called them off. Sounder obeyed + reluctantly, but Jude wanted to get down over the wall.</p> + + <p>"They scent a lion," averred Jones. "Let's put them over the + wall."</p> + + <p>Once permitted to go, the hounds needed no assistance. They + ran up and down the rim till they found a crack. Hardly had they + gone out of sight when we heard them yelping. We rushed to the + rim and looked over. The first step was short, a crumbled section + of wall, and from it led down a long slope, dotted here and there + with cedars. Both hounds were baying furiously.</p> + + <p>I spied Jude with her paws up on a cedar, and above her hung a + lion, so close that she could nearly reach him. Sounder was not + yet in sight.</p> + + <p>"There! There!" I cried, directing Jones' glance. "Are we not + lucky?"</p> + + <p>"I see. By George! Come, we'll go down. Leave everything that + you don't absolutely need."</p> + + <p>Spurs, chaps, gun, coat, hat, I left on the rim, taking only + my camera and lasso. I had forgotten to bring my canteen. We + descended a ladder of shaly cliff, the steps of which broke under + our feet. The slope below us was easy, and soon we stood on a + level with the lion. The cedar was small, and afforded no good + place for him. Evidently he jumped from the slope to the tree, + and had hung where he first alighted.</p> + + <p>"Where's Sounder? Look for him. I hear him below. This lion + won't stay treed long."</p> + + <p>I, too, heard Sounder. The cedar tree obstructed my view, and + I moved aside. A hundred feet farther down the hound bayed under + a tall piñon. High in the branches I saw a great mass of + yellow, and at first glance thought Sounder had treed old Sultan. + How I yelled! Then a second glance showed two lions close + together.</p> + + <p>"Two more! two more! look! look!" I yelled to Jones.</p> + + <p>"Hi! Hi! Hi!" he joined his robust yell to mine, and for a + moment we made the canyon bellow. When we stopped for breath the + echoes bayed at us from the opposite walls.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!" Emett's signal, faint, far away, soaring but + unmistakable, floated down to us. Across the jutting capes + separating the mouths of these canyons, high above them on the + rim wall of the opposite side of the Bay, stood a giant white + horse silhouetted against the white sky. They made a brave + picture, one most welcome to us. We yelled in chorus: "Three + lions treed! Three lions treed! come down—hurry!"</p> + + <p>A crash of rolling stones made us wheel. Jude's lion had + jumped. He ran straight down, drawing Sounder from his guard. + Jude went tearing after them.</p> + + <p>"I'll follow; you stay here. Keep them up there, if you can!" + yelled Jones. Then in long strides he passed down out of sight + among the trees and crags.</p> + + <p>It had all happened so quickly that I could scarcely realize + it. The yelping of the hounds, the clattering of stones, grew + fainter, telling me Jude and Sounder, with Jones, were going to + the bottom of the Bay.</p> + + <p>Both lions snarling at me brought me to a keen appreciation of + the facts in the case. Two full-grown lions to be kept treed + without hounds, without a companion, without a gun.</p> + + <p>"This is fine! This is funny!" I cried, and for a moment I + wanted to run. But the same grim, deadly feeling that had taken + me with Don around the narrow shelf now rose in me stronger and + fiercer. I pronounced one savage malediction upon myself for + leaving my gun. I could not go for it; I would have to make the + best of my error, and in the wildness born of the moment I swore + if the lions would stay treed for the hounds they would stay + treed for me.</p> + + <p>First I photographed them from different positions; then I + took up my stand about on a level with them in an open place on + the slope where they had me in plain sight. I might have been + fifty feet from them. They showed no inclination to come + down.</p> + + <p>About this moment I heard hounds below, coming down from the + left. I called and called, but they passed on down the canyon + bottom in the direction Jones had taken.</p> + + <p>Presently a chorus of bays, emphasized by Jones' yell, told me + his lion had treed again.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!" rolled down from above.</p> + + <p>I saw Emett farther to the left from the point where he had + just appeared.</p> + + <p>"Where—can—I—get—down?"</p> + + <p>I surveyed the walls of the Bay. Cliff on cliff, slide on + slide, jumble, crag, and ruin, baffled my gaze. But I finally + picked out a path.</p> + + <p>"Farther to the left," I yelled, and waited. He passed on, Don + at his heels.</p> + + <p>"There," I yelled again, "stop there; let Don go down with + your lasso, and come yourself."</p> + + <p>I watched him swing the hound down a wall, and pull the slip + noose free. Don slid to the edge of a slope, trotted to the right + and left of crags, threaded the narrow places, and turned in the + direction of the baying hounds. He passed on the verge of + precipices that made me tremble for him; but sure-footed as a + goat, he went on safely down, to disappear far to my right.</p> + + <p>Then I saw Emett sliding, leg wrapped around his lasso, down + the first step of the rim. His lasso, doubled so as to reach + round a cedar above, was too short to extend to the landing + below. He dropped, raising a cloud of dust, and starting the + stones. Pulling one end of his lasso up around the cedar he + gathered it in a coil on his arm and faced forward, following + Don's trail.</p> + + <p>What strides he took! In the clear light, with that wild red + and yellow background, with the stones and gravel roaring down, + streaming over the walls like waterfalls, he seemed a giant + pursuing a foe. From time to time he sent up a yell of + encouragement that wound down the canyon, to be answered by Jones + and the baying hounds and then the strange echoes. At last he + passed out of sight behind the crests of the trees; I heard him + going down, down till the sounds came up faint and hollow.</p> + + <p>I was left absolutely alone with my two lions and never did a + hunter so delight in a situation. I sat there in the sun watching + them. For a long time they were quiet, listening. But as the bays + and yells below diminished in volume and occurrence and then + ceased altogether, they became restless. It was then that I, + remembering the lion I had held on top of the crag, began to bark + like a hound. The lions became quiet once more.</p> + + <p>I bayed them for an hour. My voice grew from hoarse to + hoarser, and finally failed in my throat. The lions immediately + grew restless again. The lower one hissed, spat and growled at + me, and made many attempts to start down, each one of which I + frustrated by throwing stones under the tree. At length he made + one more determined effort, turned head downward, and stepped + from branch to branch.</p> + + <p>I dashed down the incline with a stone in one hand and a long + club in the other. Instinctively I knew I must hurt + him—make him fear me. If he got far enough down to jump, he + would either escape or have me helpless. I aimed deliberately at + him, and hit him square in the ribs. He exploded in a spit-roar + that raised my hair. Directly under him I wielded my club, + pounded on the tree, thrashed at the branches and, like the crazy + fool that I was, yelled at him:</p> + + <p>"Go back! Go back! Don't you dare come down! I'd break your + old head for you!"</p> + + <p>Foolish or not, this means effectually stopped the descent. He + climbed to his first perch. It was then, realizing what I had + done, that I would certainly have made tracks from under the + piñon, if I had not heard the faint yelp of a hound.</p> + + <p>I listened. It came again, faint but clearer. I looked up at + my lions. They too heard, for they were very still. I saw how + strained they held their heads. I backed a little way up the + slope. Then the faint yelp floated up again in the silence. Such + dead, strange silence, that seemed never to have been broken! I + saw the lions quiver, and if I ever heard anything in my life I + heard their hearts thump. The yelp wafted up again, closer this + time. I recognized it; it belonged to Don. The great hound on the + back trail of the other lion was coming to my rescue.</p> + + <p>"It's Don! It's Don! It's Don!" I cried, shaking my club at + the lions. "It's all up with you now!" What feelings stirred me + then! Pity for those lions dominated me. Big, tawny, cruel + fellows as they were, they shivered with fright. Their sides + trembled. But pity did not hold me long; Don's yelp, now getting + clear and sharp, brought back the rush of savage, grim + sensations.</p> + + <p>A full-toned bay attracted my attention from the lions to the + downward slope. I saw a yellow form moving under the trees and + climbing fast. It was Don.</p> + + <p>"Hi! Hi! old boy!" I yelled.</p> + + <p>Then it seemed he moved up like a shot and stood all his long + length, forepaws against the piñon, his deep bay ringing + defiance to the lions.</p> + + <p>It was a great relief, not to say a probable necessity, for me + to sit down just then.</p> + + <p>"Now come down," I said to my lions; "you can't catch that + hound, and you can't get away from him."</p> + + <p>Moments passed. I was just on the point of deciding to go down + to hurry up my comrades, when I heard the other hounds coming. + Yelp on yelp, bay on bay, made welcome music to my ears. Then a + black and yellow, swiftly flying string of hounds bore into sight + down the slope, streaked up and circled the piñon.</p> + + <p>Jones, who at last showed his tall stooping form on the steep + ascent, seemed as long in coming as the hounds had been + swift.</p> + + <p>"Did you get the lion? Where's Emett?" I asked in breathless + eagerness.</p> + + <p>"Lion tied—all fast," replied the panting Jones. "Left + Emett—to guard—him."</p> + + <p>"What are we to do now?"</p> + + <p>"Wait—till I get my breath. Think out—a plan. We + can't get both lions—out of one tree."</p> + + <p>"All right," I replied, after a moment's thought. "I'll tie + Sounder and Moze. You go up the tree. That first lion will jump, + sure; he's almost ready now. Don and the other hounds will tree + him again pretty soon. If he runs up the canyon, well and good. + Then, if you can get the lasso on the other, I'll yell for Emett + to come up to help you, and I'll follow Don."</p> + + <p>Jones began the ascent of the piñon. The branches were + not too close, affording him easy climbing. Before we looked for + even a move on the part of the lions, the lower one began + stepping down. I yelled a warning, but Jones did not have time to + take advantage of it. He had half turned, meaning to swing out + and drop, when the lion planted both forepaws upon his back. + Jones went sprawling down with the lion almost on him.</p> + + <p>Don had his teeth in the lion before he touched the ground, + and when he did strike the rest of the hounds were on him. A + cloud of dust rolled down the slope. The lion broke loose and + with great, springy bounds ran up the canyon, Don and his + followers hot-footing it after him.</p> + + <p>Moze and Sounder broke the dead sapling to which I had tied + them, and dragging it behind them, endeavored in frenzied action + to join the chase. I drew them back, loosening the rope, so in + case the other lion jumped I could free them quickly.</p> + + <p>Jones calmly gathered himself up, rearranged his lasso, took + his long stick, and proceeded to mount the piñon again. I + waited till I saw him slip the noose over the lion's head, then I + ran down the slope to yell for Emett. He answered at once. I told + him to hurry to Jones' assistance. With that I headed up the + canyon.</p> + + <p>I hung close to the broad trail left by the lion and his + pursuers. I passed perilously near the brink of precipices, but + fear of them was not in me that day. I passed out of the Bay into + the mouth of Left Canyon, and began to climb. The baying of the + hounds directed me. In the box of yellow walls the chorus seemed + to come from a hundred dogs.</p> + + <p>When I found them, close to a low cliff, baying the lion in a + thick, dark piñon, Ranger leaped into my arms and next Don + stood up against me with his paws on my shoulders. These were + strange actions, and though I marked it at the moment, I had + ceased to wonder at our hounds. I took one picture as the lion + sat in the dark shade, and then climbed to the low cliff and sat + down. I called Don to me and held him. In case our quarry leaped + upon the cliff I wanted a hound to put quickly on his trail.</p> + + <p>Another hour passed. It must have been a dark hour for the + lion—he looked as if it were—and one of impatience + for the baying hounds, but for me it was a full hour. Alone with + the hounds and a lion, far from the walks of men, walled in by + the wild-colored cliffs, with the dry, sweet smell of cedar and + piñon, I asked no more.</p> + + <p>Sounder and Moze, vociferously venting their arrival, were + forerunners to Jones. I saw his gray locks waving in the breeze, + and yelled for him to take his time. As he reached me the lion + jumped and ran up the canyon. This suited me, for I knew he would + take to a tree soon and the farther up he went the less distance + we would have to pack him. From the cliff I saw him run up a + slope, pass a big cedar, cunningly turn on his trail, and then + climb into the tree and hide in its thickest part. Don passed + him, got off the trail, and ran at fault. The others, so used to + his leadership, were also baffled. But Jude, crippled and slow, + brought up the rear, and she did not go a yard beyond where the + lion turned. She opened up her deep call under the cedar, and in + a moment the howling pack were around her.</p> + + <p>Jones and I toiled laboriously upward. He had brought my + lasso, and he handed it to me with the significant remark that I + would soon have need of it.</p> + + <p>The cedar was bushy and overhung a yellow, bare slope that + made Jones shake his head. He climbed the tree, lassoed the + spitting lion and then leaped down to my side. By united and + determined efforts we pulled the lion off the limb and let him + down. The hounds began to leap at him. We both roared in a rage + at them but to no use.</p> + + <p>"Hold him there!" shouted Jones, leaving me with the lasso + while he sprang forward.</p> + + <p>The weight of the animal dragged me forward and, had I not + taken a half hitch round a dead snag, would have lifted me off my + feet or pulled the lasso from my hands. As it was, the choking + lion, now within reach of the furious, leaping hounds, swung to + and fro before my face. He could not see me, but his frantic + lunges narrowly missed me.</p> + + <p>If never before, Jones then showed his genius. Don had hold of + the lion's flank, and Jones, grabbing the hound by the hind legs, + threw him down the slope. Don fell and rolled a hundred feet + before he caught himself. Then Jones threw old Moze rolling, and + Ranger, and all except faithful Jude. Before they could get back + he roped the lion again and made fast to a tree. Then he yelled + for me to let go. The lion fell. Jones grabbed the lasso, at the + same time calling for me to stop the hounds. As they came + bounding up the steep slope, I had to club the noble fellows into + submission.</p> + + <p>Before the lion recovered wholly from his severe choking, we + had his paws bound fast. Then he could only heave his tawny + sides, glare and spit at us.</p> + + <p>"Now what?" asked Jones. "Emett is watching the second lion, + which we fastened by chain and lasso to a swinging branch. I'm + all in. My heart won't stand any more climb."</p> + + <p>"You go to camp for the pack horses," I said briefly. "Bring + them all, and all the packs, and Navvy, too. I'll help Emett tie + up the second lion, and then we'll pack them both up here to this + one. You take the hounds with you."</p> + + <p>"Can you tie up that lion?" asked Jones. "Mind you, he's loose + except for a collar and chain. His claws haven't been clipped. + Besides, it'll be an awful job to pack those two lions up + here."</p> + + <p>"We can try," I said. "You hustle to camp. Your horse is right + up back of here, across the point, if I don't mistake my + bearings."</p> + + <p>Jones, admonishing me again, called the hounds and wearily + climbed the slope. I waited until he was out of hearing; then + began to retrace my trail down into the canyon. I made the + descent in quick time, to find Emett standing guard over the + lion. The beast had been tied to an overhanging branch that swung + violently with every move he made.</p> + + <p>"When I got here," said Emett, "he was hanging over the side + of that rock, almost choked to death. I drove him into this + corner between the rocks and the tree, where he has been + comparatively quiet. Now, what's up? Where is Jones? Did you get + the third lion?"</p> + + <p>I related what had occurred, and then said we were to tie this + lion and pack him with the other one up the canyon, to meet Jones + and the horses.</p> + + <p>"All right," replied Emett, with a grim laugh. "We'd better + get at it. Now I'm some worried about the lion we left below. He + ought to be brought up, but we both can't go. This lion here will + kill himself."</p> + + <p>"What will the other one weigh?"</p> + + <p>"All of one hundred and fifty pounds."</p> + + <p>"You can't pack him alone."</p> + + <p>"I'll try, and I reckon that's the best plan. Watch this + fellow and keep him in the corner."</p> + + <p>Emett left me then, and I began a third long vigil beside a + lion. The rest was more than welcome. An hour and a half passed + before I heard the sliding of stones below, which told me that + Emett was coming. He appeared on the slope almost bent double, + carrying the lion, head downward, before him. He could climb only + a few steps without lowering his burden and resting.</p> + + <p>I ran down to meet him. We secured a stout pole, and slipping + this between the lion's paws, below where they were tied, we + managed to carry him fairly well, and after several rests, got + him up alongside the other.</p> + + <p>"Now to tie that rascal!" exclaimed Emett. "Jones said he was + the meanest one he'd tackled, and I believe it. We'll cut a piece + off of each lasso, and unravel them so as to get strings. I wish + Jones hadn't tied the lasso to that swinging branch."</p> + + <p>"I'll go and untie it." Acting on this suggestion I climbed + the tree and started out on the branch. The lion growled + fiercely.</p> + + <p>"I'm afraid you'd better stop," warned Emett. "That branch is + bending, and the lion can reach you."</p> + + <p>But despite this I slipped out a couple of yards farther, and + had almost gotten to the knotted lasso, when the branch swayed + and bent alarmingly. The lion sprang from his corner and crouched + under me snarling and spitting, with every indication of + leaping.</p> + + <p>"Jump! Jump! Jump!" shouted Emett hoarsely.</p><a name= + "image-0042"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg037_m.jpg" width="749" height="448" alt= + "Billy in Camp "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0043"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg038_m.jpg" width="756" height="448" alt= + "Lion Licking Snowball "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>I dared not, for I could not jump far enough to get out of the + lion's reach. I raised my legs and began to slide myself back up + the branch. The lion leaped, missing me, but scattering the dead + twigs. Then the beast, beside himself with fury, half leaped, + half stood up, and reached for me. I looked down into his blazing + eyes, and open mouth and saw his white fangs.</p> + + <p>Everything grew blurred before my eyes. I desperately fought + for control over mind and muscle. I heard hoarse roars from + Emett. Then I felt a hot, burning pain in my wrist, which stung + all my faculties into keen life again.</p> + + <p>I saw the lion's beaked claws fastened in my leather + wrist-band. At the same instant Emett dashed under the branch, + and grasped the lion's tail. One powerful lunge of his broad + shoulders tore the lion loose and flung him down the slope to the + full extent of his lasso. Quick as thought I jumped down, and + just in time to prevent Emett from attacking the lion with the + heavy pole we had used.</p> + + <p>"I'll kill him! I'll kill him!" roared Emett.</p> + + <p>"No you won't," I replied, quietly, for my pain had served to + soothe my excitement as well as to make me more determined. + "We'll tie up the darned tiger, if he cuts us all to pieces. You + know how Jones will give us the laugh if we fail. Here, bind up + my wrist."</p> + + <p>Mention of Jones' probable ridicule and sight of my injury + cooled Emett.</p> + + <p>"It's a nasty scratch," he said, binding my handkerchief round + it. "The leather saved your hand from being torn off. He's an + ugly brute, but you're right, we'll tie him. Now, let's each take + a lasso and worry him till we get hold of a paw. Then we can + stretch him out."</p> + + <p>Jones did a fiendish thing when he tied that lion to the + swinging branch. It was almost worse than having him entirely + free. He had a circle almost twenty feet in diameter in which he + could run and leap at will. It seemed he was in the air all the + time. First at Emett, than at me he sprang, mouth agape, eyes + wild, claws spread. We whipped him with our nooses, but not one + would hold. He always tore it off before we could draw it tight. + I secured a precarious hold on one hind paw and straightened my + lasso.</p> + + <p>"That's far enough," cried Emett. "Now hold him tight; don't + lift him off the ground."</p> + + <p>I had backed up the slope. Emett faced the lion, noose ready, + waiting for a favorable chance to rope a front paw. The lion + crouched low and tense, only his long tail lashing back and forth + across my lasso. Emett threw the loop in front of the spread + paws, now half sunk into the dust.</p> + + <p>"Ease up; ease up," said he. "I'll tease him to jump into the + noose."</p> + + <p>I let my rope sag. Emett poked a stick into the lion's face. + All at once I saw the slack in the lasso which was tied to the + lion's chain. Before I could yell to warn my comrade the beast + leaped. My rope burned as it tore through my hands. The lion + sailed into the air, his paws wide-spread like wings, and one of + them struck Emett on the head and rolled him on the slope. I + jerked back on my rope only to find it had slipped its hold.</p> + + <p>"He slugged me one," remarked Emett, calmly rising and picking + up his hat. "Did he break the skin?"</p> + + <p>"No, but he tore your hat band off," I replied. "Let's keep at + him."</p> + + <p>For a few moments or an hour—no one will ever know how + long—we ran round him, raising the dust, scattering the + stones, breaking the branches, dodging his onslaughts. He leaped + at us to the full length of his tether, sailing right into our + faces, a fierce, uncowed, tigerish beast. If it had not been for + the collar and swivel he would have choked himself a hundred + times. Quick as a cat, supple, powerful, tireless, he kept on the + go, whirling, bounding, leaping, rolling, till it seemed we would + never catch him.</p> + + <p>"If anything breaks, he'll get one of us," cried Emett. "I + felt his breath that time."</p> + + <p>"Lord! How I wish we had some of those fellows here who say + lions are rank cowards!" I exclaimed.</p> + + <p>In one of his sweeping side swings the lion struck the rock + and hung there on its flat surface with his tail hanging + over.</p> + + <p>"Attract his attention," shouted Emett, "but don't get too + close. Don't make him jump."</p> + + <p>While I slowly manoeuvered in front of the lion, Emett slipped + behind the rock, lunged for the long tail and got a good hold of + it. Then with a whoop he ran around the rock, carrying the + kicking, squalling lion clear of the ground.</p> + + <p>"Now's your chance," he yelled. "Rope a hind foot! I can hold + him."</p> + + <p>In a second I had a noose fast on both hind paws, and then + passed my rope to Emett. While he held the lion I again climbed + the tree, untied the knot that had caused so much trouble, and + very shortly we had our obstinate captive stretched out between + two trees. After that we took a much needed breathing spell.</p> + + <p>"Not very scientific," growled Emett, by way of apologizing + for our crude work, "but we had to get him some way."</p> + + <p>"Emett, do you know I believe Jones put up a job on us?" I + said.</p> + + <p>"Well, maybe he did. We had the job all right. But we'll make + short work of him now."</p> + + <p>He certainly went at it in a way that alarmed me and would + have electrified Jones. While I held the chain Emett muzzled the + lion with a stick and a strand of lasso. His big blacksmith's + hands held, twisted and tied with remorseless strength.</p> + + <p>"Now for the hardest part of it," said he, "packing him + up."</p> + + <p>We toiled and drudged upward, resting every few yards, wet + with sweat, boiling with heat, parching for water. We slipped and + fell, got up to slip and fall again. The dust choked us. We + senselessly risked our lives on the brinks of precipices. We had + no thought save to get the lion up. One hour of unremitting labor + saw our task finished, so far. Then we wearily went down for the + other.</p> + + <p>"This one is the heaviest," gloomily said Emett.</p> + + <p>We had to climb partly sidewise with the pole in the hollow of + our elbows. The lion dragged head downward, catching in the brush + and on the stones. Our rests became more frequent. Emett, who had + the downward end of the pole, and therefore thrice the weight, + whistled when he drew breath. Half the time I saw red mist before + my eyes. How I hated the sliding stones!</p> + + <p>"Wait," panted Emett once. "You're—younger—than + me—wait!"</p> + + <p>For that Mormon giant—used all his days to strenuous + toil, peril and privation—to ask me to wait for him, was a + compliment which I valued more than any I had ever received.</p> + + <p>At last we dropped our burden in the shade of a cedar where + the other lions lay, and we stretched ourselves. A long, sweet + rest came abruptly to end with Emett's next words.</p> + + <p>"The lions are choking! They're dying of thirst! We must have + water!"</p> + + <p>One glance at the poor, gasping, frothing beasts, proved to me + the nature of our extremity.</p> + + <p>"Water in this desert! Where will we find it? Oh! why, did I + forget my canteen!"</p> + + <p>After all our hopes, our efforts, our tragedies, and finally + our wonderful good fortune, to lose these beautiful lions for + lack of a little water was sickening, maddening.</p> + + <p>"Think quick!" cried Emett. "I'm no good; I'm all in. But you + must find water. It snowed yesterday. There's water + somewhere."</p> + + <p>Into my mind flashed a picture of the many little pockets + beaten by rains into the shelves and promontories of the canyon + rim. With the thought I was on the jump. I ran; I climbed; I + seemed to have wings; I reached the rim, and hurried along it + with eager gaze. I swung down on a cedar branch to a projecting + point of rock. Small depressions were everywhere still damp, but + the water had evaporated. But I would not give up. I jumped from + rock to rock, and climbed over scaly ledges, and set tons of + yellow shale into motion. And I found on a ragged promontory many + little, round holes, some a foot deep, all full of clear water. + Using my handkerchief as a sponge I filled my cap.</p> + + <p>Then began my journey down. I carried the cap with both hands + and balanced myself like a tight-rope performer. I zigzagged the + slopes; slipped over stones; leaped fissures and traversed yellow + slides. I safely descended places that in an ordinary moment + would have presented insurmountable obstacles, and burst down + upon Emett with an Indian yell of triumph.</p> + + <p>"Good!" ejaculated he. If I had not known it already, the way + his face changed would have told me of his love for animals. He + grasped a lion by the ears and held his head up. I saturated my + handkerchief and squeezed the water into his mouth. He wheezed, + coughed, choked, but to our joy he swallowed. He had to swallow. + One after the other we served them so, seeing with unmistakable + relief the sure signs of recovery. Their eyes cleared and + brightened; the dry coughing that distressed us so ceased; the + froth came no more. The savage fellow that had fought us to a + standstill, and for which we had named him Spitfire, raised his + head, the gold in his beautiful eyes darkened to fire and he + growled his return to life and defiance.</p> + + <p>Emett and I sank back in unutterable relief.</p> + + <p>"Waa-hoo!" Jones' yell came, breaking the warm quiet of the + slope. Our comrade appeared riding down. The voice of the Indian, + calling to Marc, mingled with the ringing of iron-shod hoofs on + the stones.</p> + + <p>Jones surveyed the small level spot in the shade of the + cedars. He gazed from the lions to us, his stern face relaxed, + and his dry laugh cracked.</p> + + <p>"Doggone me, if you didn't do it!"</p> + + <center> + XIII + </center> + + <p>A strange procession soon emerged from Left Canyon and + stranger to us than the lion heads bobbing out of the alfagoes + was the sight of Navvy riding in front of the lions. I kept well + in the rear, for if anything happened, which I calculated was + more than likely, I wanted to see it. Before we had reached the + outskirts of pines, I observed that the piece of lasso around + Spitfire's nose had worked loose.</p> + + <p>Just as I was about to make this known to Jones, the lion + opened a corner of his mouth and fastened his teeth in the + Navajo's overalls. He did not catch the flesh, for when Navvy + turned around he wore only an expression of curiosity. But when + he saw Spitfire chewing him he uttered a shrill scream and fell + sidewise off his horse.</p> + + <p>Then two difficulties presented themselves to us, to catch the + frightened horse and persuade the Indian he had not been bitten. + We failed in the latter. Navvy gave us and the lions a wide + berth, and walked to camp.</p> + + <p>Jim was waiting for us, and said he had chased a lion south + along the rim till the hounds got away from him.</p> + + <p>Spitfire, having already been chained, was the first lion we + endeavored to introduce to our family of captives. He raised such + a fearful row that we had to remove him some distance from the + others.</p> + + <p>"We have two dog chains," said Jones, "but not a collar or a + swivel in camp. We can't chain the lions without swivels. They'd + choke themselves in two minutes."</p> + + <p>Once more, for the hundredth time, Emett came to our rescue + with his inventive and mechanical skill. He took the largest pair + of hobbles we had, and with an axe, a knife and Jones' wire + nippers, fashioned two collars with swivels that for strength and + serviceableness improved somewhat on those we had bought.</p> + + <p>Darkness was enveloping the forest when we finished supper. I + fell into my bed and, despite the throbbing and burning of my + wrist, soon lapsed into slumber. And I crawled out next morning + late for breakfast, stiff, worn out, crippled, but happy. Six + lions roaring a concert for me was quite conducive to + contentment.</p> + + <p>Emett interestingly engaged himself on a new pair of trousers, + which he had contrived to produce from two of our empty + meal-bags. The lower half of his overalls had gone to decorate + the cedar spikes and brush, and these new bag-leg trousers, while + somewhat remarkable for design, answered the purpose well enough. + Jones' coat was somewhere along the canyon rim, his shoes were + full of holes, his shirt in strips, and his trousers in rags. Jim + looked like a scarecrow. My clothes, being of heavy waterproofed + duck, had stood the hard usage in a manner to bring forth the + unanimous admiration of my companions.</p> + + <p>"Well, fellows," said Jones, "there's six lions, and that's + more than we can pack out of here. Have you had enough hunting? I + have."</p> + + <p>"And I," rejoined Emett.</p> + + <p>"Shore you can bet I have," drawled Jim.</p> + + <p>"One more day, boys, and then I've done," said I. "Only one + more day!"</p> + + <p>Signs of relief on the faces of my good comrades showed how + they took this evidence of my satisfied ambition.</p> + + <p>I spent all the afternoon with the lions, photographing them, + listening to them spit and growl, watching them fight their + chains, and roll up like balls of fire. From different parts of + the forest I tried to creep unsuspected upon them; but always + when I peeped out from behind a tree or log, every pair of ears + would be erect, every pair of eyes gleaming and suspicious.</p> + + <p>Spitfire afforded more amusement than all the others. He had + indeed the temper of a king; he had been born for sovereignty, + not slavery. To intimidate me he tried every manner of expression + and utterance, and failing, he always ended with a spring in the + air to the length of his chain. This means was always effective. + I simply could not stand still when he leaped; and in turn I + tried every artifice I could think of to make him back away from + me, to take refuge behind his tree. I ran at him with a club as + if I were going to kill him. He waited, crouching. Finally, in + dire extremity, I bethought me of a red flannel hood that Emett + had given me, saying I might use it on cold nights. This was + indeed a weird, flaming headgear, falling like a cloak down over + the shoulders. I put it on, and, camera in hand, started to crawl + on all fours toward Spitfire.</p><a name="image-0044"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg039_m.jpg" width="744" height="448" alt= + "Some of Our Menagerie in Buckskin Forest "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0045"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg040_m.jpg" width="730" height="448" alt= + "White Mustang Stallion With his Bunch of Blacks In Snake Gulch "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>I needed no one to tell me that this proceeding was entirely + beyond his comprehension. In his astonishment he forgot to spit + and growl, and he backed behind the little pine, from which he + regarded me with growing perplexity. Then, having revenged myself + on him, and getting a picture, I left him in peace.</p> + + <center> + XIV + </center> + + <p>I awoke before dawn, and lay watching the dark shadows change + into gray, and gray into light. The Navajo chanted solemnly and + low his morning song. I got up with the keen eagerness of the + hunter who faces the last day of his hunt.</p> + + <p>I warmed my frozen fingers at the fire. A hot breakfast smoked + on the red coals. We ate while Navvy fed and saddled the + horses.</p> + + <p>"Shore, they'll be somethin' doin' to-day," said Jim, + fatalistically.</p> + + <p>"We haven't crippled a horse yet," put in Emett hopefully. Don + led the pack and us down the ridge, out of the pines into the + sage. The sun, a red ball, glared out of the eastern mist, + shedding a dull glow on the ramparts of the far canyon walls. A + herd of white-tailed deer scattered before the hounds. Blue + grouse whirred from under our horses' feet.</p> + + <p>"Spread out," ordered Jones, and though he meant the hounds, + we all followed his suggestion, as the wisest course.</p> + + <p>Ranger began to work up the sage ridge to the right. Jones, + Emett and I followed, while Jim rode away to the left. Gradually + the space widened, and as we neared the cedars, a sharply + defined, deep canyon separated us.</p> + + <p>We heard Don open up, then Sounder. Ranger left the trail he + was trying to work out in the thick sage, and bounded in the + direction of the rest of the pack. We reined in to listen.</p> + + <p>First Don, then Sounder, then Jude, then one of the pups bayed + eagerly, telling us they were hunting hard. Suddenly the bays + blended in one savage sound.</p> + + <p>"Hi! Hi! Hi!" cracked the cool, thin air. We saw Jim wave his + hand from the far side of the canyon, spur his horse into action, + and disappear into the cedars.</p> + + <p>"Stick close together," yelled Jones, as we launched forward. + We made the mistake of not going back to cross the canyon, for + the hounds soon went up the opposite side. As we rode on and on, + the sounds of the chase lessened, and finally ceased. To our + great chagrin we found it necessary to retrace our steps, and + when we did get over the deep gully, so much time had elapsed + that we despaired of coming up with Jim. Emett led, keeping close + on Jim's trail, which showed plain in the dust, and we + followed.</p> + + <p>Up and down ravines, over ridges, through sage flats and cedar + forests, to and fro, around and around, we trailed Jim and the + hounds. From time to time one of us let out a long yell.</p> + + <p>"I see a big lion track," called Jones once, and that stirred + us on faster. Fully an hour passed before Jones halted us, saying + we had best try a signal. I dismounted, while Emett rolled his + great voice through the cedars.</p> + + <p>A long silence ensued. From the depths of the forest Jim's + answer struck faintly on my ear. With a word to my companions I + leaped on my mustang and led the way. I rode as far as I could + mark a straight line with my eye, then stopped to wait for + another cry. In this way, slowly but surely we closed in on + Jim.</p> + + <p>We found him on the verge of the Bay, in the small glade where + I had left my horse the day I followed Don alone down the canyon. + Jim was engaged in binding up the leg of his horse. The baying of + the hounds floated up over the rim.</p> + + <p>"What's up?" queried Jones.</p> + + <p>"Old Sultan. That's what," replied Jim. "We run plumb into + him. We've had him in five trees. It ain't been long since he was + in that cedar there. When he jumped the yellow pup was in the way + an' got killed. My horse just managed to jump clear of the big + lion, an' as it was, nearly broke his leg."</p> + + <p>Emett examined the leg and pronounced it badly strained, and + advised Jim to lead the horse back to camp. Jones and I stood a + moment over the remains of the yellow pup, and presently Emett + joined us.</p> + + <p>"He was the most playful one of the pack," said Emett, and + then he placed the limp, bloody body in a crack, and laid several + slabs of stone over it.</p> + + <p>"Hurry after the other hounds," said Jim. "That lion will kill + them one by one. An' look out for him!"</p> + + <p>If we needed an incentive, the danger threatening the hounds + furnished one; but I calculated the death of the pup was enough. + Emett had a flare in his eye, Jones looked darker and more grim + than ever, and I had sensations that boded ill to old Sultan.</p> + + <p>"Fellows," I said, "I've been down this place, and I know + where the old brute has gone; so come on."</p> + + <p>I laid aside my coat, chaps and rifle, feeling that the + business ahead was stern and difficult. Then I faced the canyon. + Down slopes, among rocks, under piñons, around yellow + walls, along slides, the two big men followed me with heavy + steps. We reached the white stream-bed, and sliding, slipping, + jumping, always down and down, we came at last within sound of + the hounds. We found them baying wildly under a piñon on + the brink of the deep cove.</p> + + <p>Then, at once, we all saw old Sultan close at hand. He was of + immense size; his color was almost gray; his head huge, his paws + heavy and round. He did not spit, nor snarl, nor growl; he did + not look at the hounds, but kept his half-shut eyes upon us.</p> + + <p>We had no time to make a move before he left his perch and hit + the ground with a thud. He walked by the baying hounds, looked + over the brink of the cove, and without an instant of hesitation, + leaped down. The rattling crash of sliding stones came up with a + cloud of dust. Then we saw him leisurely picking his way among + the rough stones.</p> + + <p>Exclamations from the three of us attested to what we thought + of that leap.</p> + + <p>"Look the place over," called Jones. "I think we've got + him."</p> + + <p>The cove was a hole hollowed out by running water. At its + head, where the perpendicular wall curved, the height was not + less than forty feet. The walls became higher as the cove + deepened toward the canyon. It had a length of perhaps a hundred + yards, and a width of perhaps half as many. The floor was mass on + mass of splintered rock.</p> + + <p>"Let the hounds down on a lasso," said Jones.</p> + + <p>Easier said than done! Sounder, Ranger, Jude refused. Old Moze + grumbled and broke away. But Don, stern and savage, allowed Jones + to tie him in a slip noose.</p> + + <p>"It's a shame to send that grand hound to his death," + protested Emett.</p> + + <p>"We'll all go down," declared Jones.</p> + + <p>"We can't. One will have to stay up here to help the other two + out," replied Emett.</p> + + <p>"You're the strongest; you stay up," said Jones. "Better work + along the wall and see if you can locate the lion."</p><a name= + "image-0046"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg041_m.jpg" width="757" height="448" alt= + "On the Way Home "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0047"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg042_m.jpg" width="448" height="710" alt= + "Riding With a Navajo "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We let Don down into the hole. He kicked himself loose before + reaching the bottom and then, yelping, he went out of sight among + the boulders. Moze, as if ashamed, came whining to us. We slipped + a noose around him and lowered him, kicking and barking, to the + rocky floor. Jones made the lasso fast to a cedar root, and I + slid down, like a flash, burning my hands. Jones swung himself + over, wrapped his leg around the rope, and came down, to hit the + ground with a thump. Then, lassos in hands, we began clambering + over the broken fragments.</p> + + <p>For a few moments we were lost to sights and sounds away from + our immediate vicinity. The bottom of the cove afforded hard + going. Dead piñons and cedars blocked our way; the great, + jagged stones offered no passage. We crawled, climbed, and jumped + from piece to piece.</p> + + <p>A yell from Emett halted us. We saw him above, on the extreme + point of wall. Waving his arms, he yelled unintelligible commands + to us. The fierce baying of Don and Moze added to our desperate + energy.</p> + + <p>The last jumble of splintered rock cleared, we faced a + terrible and wonderful scene.</p> + + <p>"Look! Look!" I gasped to Jones.</p> + + <p>A wide, bare strip of stone lay a few yards beneath us; and in + the center of this last step sat the great lion on his haunches + with his long tail lashing out over the precipice. Back to the + canyon, he confronted the furious hounds; his demeanor had + changed to one of savage apprehension.</p> + + <p>When Jones and I appeared, old Sultan abruptly turned his back + to the hounds and looked down into the canyon. He walked the + whole length of the bare rock with his head stretched over. He + was looking for a niche or a step whereby he might again elude + his foes.</p> + + <p>Faster lashed his tail; farther and farther stretched his + neck. He stopped, and with head bent so far over the abyss that + it seemed he must fall, he looked and looked.</p> + + <p>How grandly he fitted the savage sublimity of that place! The + tremendous purple canyon depths lay beneath him. He stood on the + last step of his mighty throne. The great downward slopes had + failed him. Majestically and slowly he turned from the deep that + offered no hope.</p> + + <p>As he turned, Jones cast the noose of his lasso perfectly + round the burly neck. Sultan roared and worked his jaws, but he + did not leap. Jones must have expected such a move, for he + fastened his rope to a spur of rock. Standing there, revolver + gripped, hearing the baying hounds, the roaring lion, and Jones' + yells mingled with Emett's, I had no idea what to do. I was in a + trance of sensations.</p> + + <p>Old Sultan ran rather than leaped at us. Jones evaded the rush + by falling behind a stone, but still did not get out of danger. + Don flew at the lion's neck and Moze buried his teeth in a flank. + Then the three rolled on the rock dangerously near the verge.</p> + + <p>Bellowing, Jones grasped the lasso and pulled. Still holding + my revolver, I leaped to his assistance, and together we pulled + and jerked. Don got away from the lion with remarkable quickness. + But Moze, slow and dogged, could not elude the outstretched paws, + which fastened in his side and leg. We pulled so hard we slowly + raised the lion. Moze, never whimpering, clawed and scratched at + the rock in his efforts to escape. The lion's red tongue + protruded from his dripping jaws. We heard the rend of hide as + our efforts, combined with those of Moze, loosed him from the + great yellow claws.</p> + + <p>The lion, whirling and wrestling, rolled over the precipice. + When the rope straightened with a twang, had it not been fastened + to the rock, Jones and I would have jerked over the wall. The + shock threw us to our knees.</p> + + <p>For a moment we did not realize the situation. Emett's yells + awakened us.</p> + + <p>"Pull! Pull! Pull!" roared he.</p> + + <p>Then, knowing that old Sultan would hang himself in a few + moments, we attempted to lift him. Jones pulled till his back + cracked; I pulled till I saw red before my eyes. Again and again + we tried. We could lift him only a few feet. Soon exhausted, we + had to desist altogether. How Emett roared and raged from his + vantage-point above! He could see the lion in death throes.</p> + + <p>Suddenly he quieted down with the words: "All over; all over!" + Then he sat still, looking into space. Jones sat mopping his + brow. And I, all my hot resentment vanished, lay on the rock, + with eyes on the distant mesas.</p> + + <p>Presently Jones leaned over the verge with my lasso.</p> + + <p>"There," he said, "I've roped one of his hind legs. Now we'll + pull him up a little, then we'll fasten this rope, and pull on + the other."</p> + + <p>So, foot by foot, we worked the heavy lion up over the wall. + He must have been dead, though his sides heaved. Don sniffed at + him in disdain. Moze, dusty and bloody, with a large strip of + hide hanging from his flank, came up growling low and deep, and + gave the lion a last vengeful bite.</p> + + <p>"We've been fools," observed Jones, meditatively. "The + excitement of the game made us lose our wits. I'll never rope + another lion."</p> + + <p>I said nothing. While Moze licked his bloody leg and Don lay + with his fine head on my knees, Jones began to skin old Sultan. + Once more the strange, infinite silence enfolded the canyon. The + far-off golden walls glistened in the sun; farther down, the + purple clefts smoked. The many-hued peaks and mesas, aloof from + each other, rose out of the depths. It was a grand and gloomy + scene of ruin where every glistening descent of rock was but a + page of earth's history.</p> + + <p>It brought to my mind a faint appreciation of what time really + meant; it spoke of an age of former men; it showed me the + lonesome crags of eagles, and the cliff lairs of lions; and it + taught mutely, eloquently, a lesson of life—that men are + still savage, still driven by a spirit to roam, to hunt, and to + slay.</p><a name="2HCH0004"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + + <center> + TONTO BASIN + </center> + + <p>The start of a camping trip, the getting a big outfit together + and packed, and on the move, is always a difficult and laborsome + job. Nevertheless, for me the preparation and the actual getting + under way have always been matters of thrilling interest. This + start of my hunt in Arizona, September 24, 1918, was particularly + momentous because I had brought my boy Romer with me for his + first trip into the wilds.</p> + + <p>It may be that the boy was too young for such an undertaking. + His mother feared he would be injured; his teachers presaged his + utter ruin; his old nurse, with whom he waged war until he was + free of her, averred that the best it could do for him would be + to show what kind of stuff he was made of. His uncle R.C. was + stoutly in favor of taking him. I believe the balance fell in + Romer's favor when I remembered my own boyhood. As a youngster of + three I had babbled of "bars an' buffers," and woven fantastic + and marvelous tales of fiction about my imagined + adventures—a habit, alas! I have never yet outgrown.</p> + + <p>Anyway we only made six miles' travel on this September + twenty-fourth, and Romer was with us.</p> + + <p>Indeed he was omnipresent. His keen, eager joy communicated + itself to me. Once he rode up alongside me and said: "Dad, this's + great, but I'd rather do like Buck Duane." The boy had read all + of my books, in spite of parents and teachers, and he knew them + by heart, and invariably liked the outlaws and gunmen best of + all.</p> + + <p>We made camp at sunset, with a flare of gold along the west, + and the Peaks rising rosy and clear to the north. We camped in a + cut-over pine forest, where stumps and lopped tops and burned + deadfalls made an aspect of blackened desolation. From a + distance, however, the scene was superb. At sunset there was a + faint wind which soon died away.</p> + + <p>My old guide on so many trips across the Painted Desert was in + charge of the outfit. He was a wiry, gray, old pioneer, over + seventy years, hollow-cheeked and bronzed, with blue-gray eyes + still keen with fire. He was no longer robust, but he was + tireless and willing. When he told a story he always began: "In + the early days—" His son Lee had charge of the horses of + which we had fourteen, two teams and ten saddle horses. Lee was a + typical westerner of many occupations—cowboy, rider, + rancher, cattleman. He was small, thin, supple, quick, tough and + strong. He had a bronzed face, always chapped, a hooked nose, + gray-blue eyes like his father's, sharp and keen.</p> + + <p>Lee had engaged the only man he could find for a + cook—Joe Isbel, a tall, lithe cowboy, straight as an + Indian, with powerful shoulders, round limbs, and slender waist, + and Isbel was what the westerners called a broncho-buster. He was + a prize-winning rider at all the rodeos. Indeed, his seat in the + saddle was individual and incomparable. He had a rough red-blue + face, hard and rugged, like the rocks he rode over so fearlessly, + and his eyes were bright hazel, steady and hard. Isbel's + vernacular was significant. Speaking of one of our horses he + said: "Like a mule he'll be your friend for twenty years to git a + chance to kick you." Speaking of another that had to be shod he + said: "Shore, he'll step high to-morrow." Isbel appeared to be + remarkably efficient as camp-rustler and cook, but he did not + inspire me with confidence. In speaking of this to the Doyles I + found them non-committal on the subject. Westerners have + sensitive feelings. I could not tell whether they were offended + or not, and I half regretted mentioning my lack of confidence in + Isbel. As it turned out, however, I was amply justified.</p> + + <p>Sievert Nielsen, whom I have mentioned elsewhere, was the + fourth of my men.</p> + + <p>Darkness had enveloped us at supper time. I was tired out, but + the red-embered camp-fire, the cool air, the smell of wood-smoke, + and the white stars kept me awake awhile. Romer had to be put to + bed. He was wild with excitement. We had had a sleeping-bag made + for him so that once snugly in it, with the flaps buckled he + could not kick off the blankets. When we got him into it he + quieted down and took exceeding interest in his first bed in the + open. He did not, however, go quickly to sleep. Presently he + called R.C. over and whispered: "Say, Uncle Rome, I coiled a + lasso an' put it under Nielsen's bed. When he's asleep you go + pull it. He's tenderfoot like Dad was. He'll think it's a + rattlesnake." This trick Romer must have remembered from reading + "The Last of the Plainsmen," where I related what Buffalo Jones' + cowboys did to me. Once Romer got that secret off his mind he + fell asleep.</p> + + <p>The hour we spent sitting around the camp-fire was the most + pleasant of that night, though I did not know it then. The smell + of wood-smoke and the glow of live coals stirred memories of + other camp-fires. I was once more enveloped by the sweetness and + peace of the open, listening to the sigh of the wind, and the + faint tinkle of bells on the hobbled horses.</p> + + <p>An uncomfortable night indeed it turned out to be. Our covers + were scanty and did not number among them any blankets. The bed + was hard as a rock, and lumpy. No sleep! As the night wore on the + air grew colder, and I could not keep warm. At four a.m. I heard + the howling of coyotes—a thrilling and well remembered wild + chorus. After that perfect stillness reigned. Presently I saw the + morning star—big, blue-white, beautiful. Uncomfortable + hours seemed well spent if the reward was sight of the morning + star. How few people ever see it! How very few ever get a glimpse + of it on a desert dawn!</p> + + <p>Just then, about five-thirty, Romer woke up and yelled + lustily: "Dad! My nose's froze." This was a signal for me to + laugh, and also to rise heroically. Not difficult because I + wanted to stay in bed, but because I could hardly crawl out! Soon + we had a fire roaring. At six the dawn was still gray. Cold and + nipping air, frost on everything, pale stars, a gold-red light in + the east were proofs that I was again in the open. Soon a + rose-colored flush beautified the Peaks.</p> + + <p>After breakfast we had trouble with the horses. This always + happened. But it was made worse this morning because a young + cowboy who happened along took upon himself the task of helping + Lee. I suspected he wanted to show off a little. In throwing his + lasso to rope one, the noose went over the heads of two. Then he + tried to hold both animals. They dragged him, pulled the lasso + out of his hands, and stampeded the other horses. These two roped + together thundered off with the noose widening. I was afraid they + would split round a tree or stump, but fortunately the noose fell + off one. As all the horses pounded off I heard Romer remark to + Isbel: "Say, Joe, I don't see any medals on that cowboy." Isbel + roared, and said: "Wal, Romer, you shore hit the nail, on the + haid!"</p> + + <p>Owing to that stampede we did not get saddled and started till + eleven o'clock. At first I was so sore and stiff from the hard + bed that I rode a while on the wagon with Doyle. Many a mile I + had ridden with him, and many a story he had related. This time + he told about sitting on a jury at Prescott where they brought in + as evidence bloody shirts, overalls, guns, knives, until there + was such a pile that the table would not hold them. Doyle was a + mine of memories of the early days.</p> + + <p>Romer's mount was a little black, white-spotted horse named + Rye. Lee Doyle had scoured the ranches to get this pony for the + youngster. Rye was small for a horse, about the size of an Indian + mustang, and he was gentle, as well as strong and fast. Romer had + been given riding lessons all that summer in the east, and upon + his arrival at Flagstaff he informed me that he could ride. I + predicted he would be in the wagon before noon of the second day + out. He offered to bet on it. I told him I disapproved of + betting. He seemed to me to be daring, adaptable, self-willed; + and I was divided between pride and anxiety as to the outcome of + this trip for him.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we reached Lake Mary, a long, ugly, muddy + pond in a valley between pine-slopes. Dead and ghastly trees + stood in the water, and the shores were cattle-tracked. Probably + to the ranchers this mud-hole was a pleasing picture, but to me, + who loved the beauty of the desert before its productiveness, it + was hideous. When we passed Lake Mary, and farther on the last of + the cut-over timber-land, we began to get into wonderful country. + We traveled about sixteen miles, rather a small day's ride. Romer + stayed on his horse all through that ride, and when we selected a + camp site for the night he said to me: "Well, you're lucky you + wouldn't bet."</p> + + <p>Camp that evening was in a valley with stately pines + straggling down to the level. On the other slope the pines came + down in groups. The rim of this opposite slope was high, rugged, + iron-colored, with cracks and holes. Before supper I walked up + the slope back of our camp, to come upon level, rocky ground for + a mile, then pines again leading to a low, green mountain with + lighter patches of aspen. The level, open strip was gray in + color. Arizona color and Arizona country! Gray of sage, rocks, + pines, cedars, piñons, heights and depths and plains, wild + and open and lonely—that was Arizona.</p> + + <p>That night I obtained some rest and sleep, lying awake only a + few hours, during which time I turned from side to side to find a + soft place in the hard bed. Under such circumstances I always + thought of the hard beds of the Greeks and the Spartans. Next day + we rode twenty-three miles. On horseback trips like this it was + every one for himself. Sometimes we would be spread out, all + separated; at others we would be bunched; and again we would ride + in couples. The morning was an ordeal for me, as at first I could + scarcely sit my saddle; in the afternoon, however, riding grew to + be less severe. The road led through a winding, shallow valley, + with clumps of pine here and there, and cedars on the slopes. + Romer rode all the way, half the time with his feet out of the + stirrups, like a western boy born to the saddle, and he wanted to + go fast all the time. Camp was made at a place called Fulton + Spring. It might have been a spring once, but now it was a + mud-hole with a dead cow lying in it. Clear, cold water is + necessary to my pleasure, if not to my health. I have lived on + sheep water—the water holes being tainted by + sheep—and alkali water and soapy water of the desert, but + never happily. How I hailed the clear, cold, swiftly-flowing + springs!</p> + + <p>This third camp lay in a woods where the pines were beautiful + and the silence noticeable. Upon asking Romer to enumerate the + things I had called to his attention, the few times I could catch + up with him on the day's journey, he promptly replied—two + big spiders—tarantulas, a hawk, and Mormon Lake. This lake + was another snow-melted mud-hole, said to contain fish. I doubted + that. Perhaps the little bull-head catfish might survive in such + muddy water, but I did not believe bass or perch could.</p> + + <p>One familiar feature of Arizona travel manifested itself to me + that day—the dry air. My nails became brittle and my lips + began to crack. I have had my lips cracked so severely that when + I tried to bite bread they would split and bleed and hurt so that + I could not eat. This matter of sore lips was for long a painful + matter. I tried many remedies, and finally found one, camphor + ice, that would prevent the drying and cracking.</p> + + <p>Next day at dawn the forest was full of the soughing of wind + in the pines—a wind that presaged storm. No stars showed. + Romer-boy piled out at six o'clock. I had to follow him. The sky + was dark and cloudy. Only a faint light showed in the east and it + was just light enough to see when we ate breakfast. Owing to + strayed horses we did not get started till after nine + o'clock.</p> + + <p>Five miles through the woods, gradually descending, led us + into an open plain where there was a grass-bordered pond full of + ducks. Here appeared an opportunity to get some meat. R.C. tried + with shotgun and I with rifle, all to no avail. These ducks were + shy. Romer seemed to evince some disdain at our failure, but he + did not voice his feelings. We found some wild-turkey tracks, and + a few feathers, which put our hopes high.</p> + + <p>Crossing the open ground we again entered the forest, which + gradually grew thicker as we got down to a lower altitude. Oak + trees began to show in swales. And then we soon began to see + squirrels, big, plump, gray fellows, with bushy tails almost + silver. They appeared wilder than we would have suspected, at + that distance from the settlements. Romer was eager to hunt them, + and with his usual persistence, succeeded at length in persuading + his uncle to do so.</p> + + <p>To that end we rode out far ahead of the wagon and horses. Lee + had a yellow dog he called Pups, a close-haired, keen-faced, + muscular canine to which I had taken a dislike. To be fair to + Pups, I had no reason except that he barked all the time. Pups + and his barking were destined to make me hail them both with + admiration and respect, but I had no idea of that then. Now this + dog of Lee's would run ahead of us, trail squirrels, chase them, + and tree them, whereupon he would bark vociferously. Sometimes up + in the bushy top we would fail to spy the squirrel, but we had no + doubt one was there. Romer wasted many and many a cartridge of + the .22 Winchester trying to hit a squirrel. He had practiced a + good deal, and was a fairly good shot for a youngster, but + hitting a little gray ball of fur high on a tree, or waving at + the tip of a branch, was no easy matter.</p> + + <p>"Son," I said, "you don't take after your Dad."</p> + + <p>And his uncle tried the lad's temper by teasing him about + Wetzel. Now Wetzel, the great Indian killer of frontier days, was + Romer's favorite hero.</p> + + <p>"Gimme the .20 gauge," finally cried Romer, in desperation, + with his eyes flashing.</p> + + <p>Whereupon his uncle handed him the shotgun, with a word of + caution as to the trigger. This particular squirrel was pretty + high up, presenting no easy target. Romer stood almost directly + under it, raised the gun nearly straight up, waved and wobbled + and hesitated, and finally fired. Down sailed the squirrel to hit + with a plump. That was Romer's first successful hunting + experience. How proud he was of that gray squirrel! I suffered a + pang to see the boy so radiant, so full of fire at the killing of + a beautiful creature of the woods. Then again I remembered my own + first sensations. Boys are blood-thirsty little savages. In their + hunting, playing, even their reading, some element of the wild + brute instinct dominates them. They are worthy descendants of + progenitors who had to fight and kill to live. This incident + furnished me much food for reflection. I foresaw that before this + trip was ended I must face some knotty problems. I hated to shoot + a squirrel even when I was hungry. Probably that was because I + was not hungry enough. A starving man suffers no compunctions at + the spilling of blood. On the contrary he revels in it with a + fierce, primitive joy.</p> + + <p>"Some shot, I'll say!" declared Romer to his uncle, loftily. + And he said to me half a dozen times: "Say, Dad, wasn't it a + grand peg?"</p> + + <p>But toward the end of that afternoon his enthusiasm waned for + shooting, for anything, especially riding. He kept asking when + the wagon was going to stop. Once he yelled out: "Here's a peach + of a place to camp." Then I asked him: "Romer, are you tired?" + "Naw! But what's the use ridin' till dark?" At length he had to + give up and be put on the wagon. The moment was tragic for him. + Soon, however, he brightened at something Doyle told him, and + began to ply the old pioneer with rapid-fire questions.</p> + + <p>We pitched camp in an open flat, gray and red with short + grass, and sheltered by towering pines on one side. Under these + we set up our tents. The mat of pine needles was half a foot + thick, soft and springy and fragrant. The woods appeared full of + slanting rays of golden sunlight.</p> + + <p>This day we had supper over before sunset. Romer showed no + effects from his long, hard ride. First he wanted to cook, then + he fooled around the fire, bothering Isbel. I had a hard time to + manage him. He wanted to be eternally active. He teased and + begged to go hunting—then he compromised on target + practice. R.C. and I, however, were too tired, and we preferred + to rest beside the camp-fire.</p> + + <p>"Look here, kid," said R.C., "save something for + to-morrow."</p> + + <p>In disgust Romer replied: "Well, I suppose if a flock of + antelope came along here you wouldn't move.... You an' Dad are + great hunters, I don't think!"</p> + + <p>After the lad had gone over to the other men R.C. turned to me + and said reflectively: "Does he remind you of us when we were + little?"</p> + + <p>To which I replied with emotion: "In him I live over + again!"</p> + + <p>That is one of the beautiful things about children, so full of + pathos and some strange, stinging joy—they bring back the + days that are no more.</p> + + <p>This evening, despite my fatigue, I was the last one to stay + up. My seat was most comfortable, consisting of thick folds of + blankets against a log. How the wind mourned in the trees! How + the camp-fire sparkled, glowed red and white! Sometimes it seemed + full of blazing opals. Always it held faces. And + stories—more stories than I can ever tell! Once I was + stirred and inspired by the beautiful effect of the pine trees in + outline against the starry sky when the camp-fire blazed up. The + color of the foliage seemed indescribably blue-green, something + never seen by day. Every line shone bright, graceful, curved, + rounded, and all thrown with sharp relief against the sky. How + magical, exquisitely delicate and fanciful! The great trunks were + soft serrated brown, and the gnarled branches stood out in + perfect proportions. All works of art must be copied of + nature.</p> + + <p>Next morning early, while Romer slept, and the men had just + begun to stir, I went apart from the camp out into the woods. All + seemed solemn and still and cool, with the aisles of the forest + brown and green and gold. I heard an owl, perhaps belated in his + nocturnal habit. Then to my surprise I heard wild canaries. They + were flying high, and to the south, going to their winter + quarters. I wandered around among big, gray rocks and windfalls + and clumps of young oak and majestic pines. More than one saucy + red squirrel chattered at me.</p> + + <p>When I returned to camp my comrades were at breakfast. Romer + appeared vastly relieved to see that I had not taken a gun with + me.</p> + + <p>This morning we got an early start. We rode for hours through + a beautiful shady forest, where a fragrant breeze in our faces + made riding pleasant. Large oaks and patches of sumach appeared + on the rocky slopes. We descended a good deal in this morning's + travel, and the air grew appreciably warmer. The smell of pine + was thick and fragrant; the sound of wind was sweet and soughing. + Everywhere pine needles dropped, shining in the sunlight like + thin slants of rain.</p> + + <p>Only once or twice did I see Romer in all these morning hours; + then he was out in front with the cowboy Isbel, riding his black + pony over all the logs and washes he could find. I could see his + feet sticking straight out almost even with his saddle. He did + not appear to need stirrups. My fears gradually lessened.</p> + + <p>During the afternoon the ride grew hot, and very dusty. We + came to a long, open valley where the dust lay several inches + deep. It had been an unusually dry summer and fall—a fact + that presaged poor luck for our hunting—and the washes and + stream-beds were bleached white. We came to two water-holes, + tanks the Arizonians called them, and they were vile mud-holes + with green scum on the water. The horses drank, but I would have + had to be far gone from thirst before I would have slaked mine + there. We faced west with the hot sun beating on us and the dust + rising in clouds. No wonder that ride was interminably long.</p> + + <p>At last we descended a canyon, and decided to camp in a level + spot where several ravines met, in one of which a tiny stream of + dear water oozed out of the gravel. The inclosure was + rocky-sloped, full of caves and covered with pines; and the best + I could say for it was that in case of storm the camp would be + well protected. We shoveled out a deep hole in the gravel, so + that it would fill up with water. Romer had evidently enjoyed + himself this day. When I asked Isbel about him the cowboy's hard + face gleamed with a smile: "Shore thet kid's all right. He'll + make a cowpuncher!" His remark pleased me. In view of Romer's + determination to emulate the worst bandit I ever wrote about I + was tremendously glad to think of him as a cowboy. But as for + myself I was tired, and the ride had been rather unprofitable, + and this camp-site, to say the least, did not inspire me. It was + neither wild nor beautiful nor comfortable. I went early to bed + and slept like a log.</p> + + <p>The following morning some of our horses were lost. The men + hunted from daylight till ten o'clock. Then it was that I learned + more about Lee's dog Pups. At ten-thirty Lee came in with the + lost horses. They had hidden in a clump of cedars and remained + perfectly quiet, as cute as deer. Lee put Pups on their trail. + Pups was a horse-trailing dog and he soon found them. I had a + change of feeling for Pups, then and there.</p><a name= + "image-0048"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg043_m.jpg" width="689" height="448" alt= + "The Author and his Men. From Left to Right: Edd Haught; Nielsen; Haught, the Bear Hunter; Al Doyle, Pioneer Arizona Guide; Lewis Pyle; Z.g.; George Haught; Ben Copple; Lee Doyle. "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>The sun was high and hot when we rode off. The pleasant and + dusty stretches alternated. About one o'clock we halted on the + edge of a deep wooded ravine to take our usual noonday rest. I + scouted along the edge in the hope of seeing game of some kind. + Presently I heard the cluck-cluck of turkeys. Slipping along to + an open place I peered down to be thrilled by sight of four + good-sized turkeys. They were walking along the open strip of dry + stream-bed at the bottom of the ravine. One was chasing + grasshoppers. They were fairly close. I took aim at one, and + thought I could have hit him, but suddenly I remembered Romer and + R.C. So I slipped back and called them.</p><a name="image-0049"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg044_m.jpg" width="448" height="594" alt= + "Romer-boy on his Favorite Steed "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Hurriedly and stealthily we returned to the point where I had + seen the turkeys. Romer had a pale face and wonderfully bright + eyes; his actions resembled those of a stalking Indian. The + turkeys were farther down, but still in plain sight. I told R.C. + to take the boy and slip down, and run and hide and run till they + got close enough for a shot. I would keep to the edge of the + ravine.</p> + + <p>Some moments later I saw R.C. and the boy running and stooping + and creeping along the bottom of the ravine. Then I ran myself to + reach a point opposite the turkeys, so in case they flew uphill I + might get a shot. But I did not see them, and nothing happened. I + lost sight of the turkeys. Hurrying back to where I had tied my + horse I mounted him and loped ahead and came out upon the ravine + some distance above. Here I hunted around for a little while. + Once I heard the report of the .20 gauge, and then several rifle + shots. Upon returning I found that Lee and Nielsen had wasted + some shells. R.C. and Romer came wagging up the hill, both red + and wet and tired. R.C. carried a small turkey, about the size of + a chicken. He told me, between pants, that they chased the four + large turkeys, and were just about to get a shot when up jumped a + hen-turkey with a flock of young ones. They ran every way. He got + one. Then he told me, between more pants and some laughs, that + Romer had chased the little turkeys all over the ravine, almost + catching several. Romer said for himself: "I just almost pulled + feathers out of their tails. Gee! if I'd had a gun!"</p> + + <p>We resumed our journey. About the middle of the afternoon + Doyle called my attention to an opening in the forest through + which I could see the yellow-walled rim of the mesa, and the + great blue void below. Arizona! That explained the black forests, + the red and yellow cliffs of rock, the gray cedars, the heights + and depths.</p> + + <p>Lop? ride indeed was it down off the mesa. The road was + winding, rough full of loose rocks and dusty. We were all tired + out trying to keep up with the wagon. Romer, however, averred + time and again that he was not tired. Still I saw him often shift + his seat from one side of the saddle to the other.</p> + + <p>At last we descended to a comparative level and came to a + little hamlet. Like all Mormon villages it had quaint log cabins, + low stone houses, an irrigation ditch running at the side of the + road, orchards, and many rosy-cheeked children. We lingered there + long enough to rest a little and drink our fill of the cold + granite water. I would travel out of my way to get a drink of + water that came from granite rock.</p> + + <p>About five o'clock we left for the Natural Bridge. Romer + invited or rather taunted me to a race. When it ended in his + victory I found that I had jolted my rifle out of its saddle + sheath. I went back some distance to look for it, but did so in + vain. Isbel said he would ride back in the morning and find + it.</p> + + <p>The country here appeared to be on a vast scale. But that was + only because we had gotten out where we could see all around. + Arizona is all on a grand, vast scale. Mountain ranges stood up + to the south and east. North loomed up the lofty, steep rim of + the Mogollon Mesa, with its cliffs of yellow and red, and its + black line of timber. Westward lay fold on fold of low + cedar-covered hills. The valley appeared a kind of magnificent + bowl, rough and wild, with the distance lost in blue haze. The + vegetation was dense and rather low. I saw both prickly-pear and + mescal cactus, cedars, manzanita brush, scrub oak, and juniper + trees. These last named were very beautiful, especially the + smaller ones, with their gray-green foliage, and purple berries, + and black and white checkered bark. There were no pine trees. + Since we had left the rim above the character of plant life had + changed.</p> + + <p>We crossed the plateau leading to the valley where the Natural + Bridge was located. A winding road descended the east side of + this valley. A rancher lived down there. Green of alfalfa and + orchard and walnut trees contrasted vividly with a bare, gray + slope on one side, and a red, rugged mountain on the other. A + deep gorge showed dark and wild. At length, just after sunset, we + reached the ranch, and rode through orchards of peach and pear + and apple trees, all colored with fruit, and down through grassy + meadows to a walnut grove where we pitched camp. By the time we + had supper it was dark. Wonderful stars, thick, dreamy hum of + insects, murmur of swift water, a rosy and golden afterglow on + the notch of the mountain range to the west—these were + inducements to stay up, but I was so tired I had to go to bed, + where my eyelids fell tight, as if pleasantly weighted.</p> + + <p>After the long, hard rides and the barren camp-sites what + delight to awaken in this beautiful valley with the morning cool + and breezy and bright, with smell of new-mown hay from the green + and purple alfalfa fields, and the sunlight gilding the jagged + crags above! Romer made a bee-line for the peach trees. He beat + his daddy only a few yards. The kind rancher had visited us the + night before and he had told us to help ourselves to fruit, + melons, alfalfa. Needless to state that I made my breakfast on + peaches!</p> + + <p>I trailed the swift, murmuring stream to its source on the + dark green slope where there opened up a big hole bordered by + water-cress, long grass, and fragrant mint. This spring was one + of perfectly clear water, six feet deep, boiling up to bulge on + the surface. A grass of dark color and bunches of light green + plant grew under the surface. Bees and blue dragon-flies hummed + around and frogs as green as the grass blinked with jewelled eyes + from the wet margins. The spring had a large volume that spilled + over its borders with low, hollow gurgle, with fresh, cool + splash. The water was soft, tasting of limestone. Here was the + secret of the verdure and fragrance and color and beauty and life + of the oasis.</p> + + <p>It was also the secret of the formation of the wonderful + Natural Bridge. Part of the rancher's cultivated land, to the + extent of several acres, was the level top of this strange + bridge. A meadow of alfalfa and a fine vineyard, in the air, like + the hanging gardens of Babylon! The natural bridge spanned a deep + gorge, at the bottom of which flowed a swift stream of water. + Geologically this tremendous arch of limestone cannot be so very + old. In comparatively recent times an earthquake or some seismic + disturbance or some other natural force caused a spring of water + to burst from the slope above the gorge. It ran down, of course, + over the rim. The lime salt in the water was deposited, and year + by year and age by age advanced toward the opposite side until a + bridge crossed the gorge. The swift stream at the bottom kept the + opening clear under the bridge.</p> + + <p>A winding trail led deep down on the lower side of this + wonderful natural span. It showed the cliffs of limestone, + porous, craggy, broken, chalky. At the bottom the gorge was full + of tremendous boulders, water-worn ledges, sycamore and juniper + trees, red and yellow flowers, and dark, beautiful green pools. I + espied tiny gray frogs, reminding me of those I found in the + gulches of the Grand Canyon. Many huge black beetles, some alive, + but most of them dead, lined the wet borders of the pools. A + species of fish that resembled mullet lay in the shadow of the + rocks.</p> + + <p>From underneath the Natural Bridge showed to advantage, and if + not magnificent like the grand Nonnezoshe of Utah, it was at + least striking and beautiful. It had a rounded ceiling colored + gray, yellow, green, bronze, purple, white, making a crude and + scalloped mosaic. Water dripped from it like a rain of heavy + scattered drops. The left side was dryest and large, dark caves + opened up, one above the other, the upper being so high that it + was dangerous to attempt reaching it. The right side was slippery + and wet. All rocks were thickly encrusted with lime salt. Doyle + told us that any object left under the ceaseless drip, drip of + the lime water would soon become encrusted, and heavy as stone. + The upper opening of the arch was much higher and smaller than + the lower. Any noise gave forth strange and sepulchral echoes. + Romer certainly made the welkin ring. A streak of sunlight shone + through a small hole in the thinnest part of the roof. Doyle + pointed out the high cave where Indians had once lived, showing + the markings of their fire. Also he told a story of Apaches being + driven into the highest cave from which they had never escaped. + This tale was manifestly to Romer's liking and I had to use force + to keep him from risking his neck. A very strong breeze blew + under the arch. When we rolled a boulder into the large, dark + pool it gave forth a hollow boom, boom, boom, growing hollower + the deeper it went. I tried to interest Romer in some bat nests + in crevices high up, but the boy wanted to roll stones and fish + for the mullet. When we climbed out and were once more on a level + I asked him what he thought of the place. "Some hole—I'll + say!" he panted, breathlessly.</p> + + <p>The rancher told me that the summer rains began there about + July, and the snows about the first of the year. Snow never lay + long on the lower slopes. Apaches had lived there forty years ago + and had cultivated the soil. There was gold in the mountains of + the Four Peaks Range. In this sheltered nook the weather was + never severely cold or hot; and I judged from the quaint talk of + the rancher's wife that life there was always afternoon.</p> + + <p>Next day we rode from Natural Bridge to Payson in four and a + half hours. Payson appeared to be an old hamlet, retaining many + frontier characteristics such as old board and stone houses with + high fronts, hitching posts and pumps on sidewalks, and one + street so wide that it resembled a Mexican plaza. Payson + contained two stores, where I hoped to buy a rifle, and hoped in + vain. I had not recovered my lost gun, and when night came my + prospects of anything to hunt with appeared extremely slim. But + we had visitors, and one of them was a stalwart, dark-skinned + rider named Copple, who introduced himself by saying he would + have come a good way to meet the writer of certain books he had + profited by. When he learned of the loss of my rifle and that I + could not purchase one anywhere he pressed upon me his own. I + refused with thanks, but he would not take no. The upshot of it + was that he lent me his .30 Government Winchester, and gave me + several boxes of ammunition. Also he presented me with a cowhide + lasso. Whereupon Romer-boy took a shine to Copple at once. "Say, + you look like an Indian," he declared. With a laugh Copple + replied: "I am part Indian, sonny." Manifestly that settled his + status with Romer, for he piped up: "So's Dad part Indian. You'd + better come huntin' with us."</p> + + <p>We had for next day to look forward to the longest and hardest + ride of the journey in, and in order to make it and reach a good + camping site I got up at three o'clock in the morning to rout + everybody out. It was pitch dark until we kindled fires. Then + everybody rustled to such purpose that we were ready to start + before dawn, and had to wait a little for light enough to see + where we were going. This procedure tickled Romer immensely. I + believed he imagined he was in a pioneer caravan. The gray + breaking of dawn, the coming of brighter light, the rose and + silver of the rising sun, and the riding in its face, with the + air so tangy and nipping, were circumstances that inspired me as + the adventurous start pleased Romer. The brush and cactus-lined + road was rough, up hill and down, with ever increasing + indications that it was seldom used. From the tops of high points + I could see black foothills, round, cone-shaped, flat-topped, all + leading the gaze toward the great yellow and red wall of the + mesa, with its fringed borderline, wild and beckoning.</p> + + <p>We walked our horses, trotted, loped, and repeated the order, + over and over, hour by hour, mile after mile, under a sun that + burned our faces and through choking dust. The washes and + stream-beds were bleached and dry; the brush was sear and yellow + and dust laden; the mescal stalks seemed withered by hot blasts. + Only the manzanita looked fresh. That smooth red-branched and + glistening green-leafed plant of the desert apparently flourished + without rain. On all sides the evidences of extreme drought + proved the year to be the dreaded <i>anno seco</i> of the + Mexicans.</p> + + <p>For ten hours we rode without a halt before there was any + prominent change in the weary up- and down-hill going, in the + heat and dust and brush-walled road. But about the middle of the + afternoon we reached the summit of the longest hill, from which + we saw ahead of us a cut up country, wild and rugged and + beautiful, with pine-sloped canyon at our feet. We heard the + faint murmur of running water. Hot, dusty, wet with sweat, and + thirsty as sheep, we piled down that steep slope as fast as we + dared. Our horses did not need urging. At the bottom we plunged + into a swift stream of clear, cold water—granite + water—to drink of which, and to bathe hot heads and burning + feet, was a joy only known to the weary traveler of the desert. + Romer yelled that the water was like that at our home in the + mountains of Pennsylvania, and he drank till I thought he would + burst, and then I had to hold him to keep him from wallowing in + it.</p> + + <p>Here we entered a pine forest. Heat and dust stayed with us, + and the aches and pains likewise, but the worst of them lay + behind. Every mile grew shadier, clearer, cooler.</p> + + <p>Nielsen happened to fall in and ride beside me for several + miles, as was often his wont. The drink of water stirred him to + an Homeric recital of one of his desert trips in Sonora, at the + end of which, almost dead of thirst, he had suddenly come upon + such a stream as the one we had just passed. Then he told me + about his trips down the west coast of Sonora, along the Gulf, + where he traveled at night, at low tide, so that by daytime his + footprints would be washed out. This was the land of the Seri + Indians. Undoubtedly these Indians were cannibals. I had read + considerable about them, much of which ridiculed the rumors of + their cannibalistic traits. This of course had been of exceeding + interest to me, because some day I meant to go to the land of the + Seris. But not until 1918 did I get really authentic data + concerning them. Professor Bailey of the University of California + told me he had years before made two trips to the Gulf, and found + the Seris to be the lowest order of savages he knew of. He was + positive that under favorable circumstances they would practice + cannibalism. Nielsen made four trips down there. He claimed the + Seris were an ugly tribe. In winter they lived on Tiburon Island, + off which boats anchored on occasions, and crews and fishermen + and adventurers went ashore to barter with the Indians. These + travelers did not see the worst of the Seris. In summer they + range up the mainland, and they go naked. They do not want gold + discovered down there. They will fight prospectors. They use + arrows and attack at dawn. Also they poison the water-holes.</p> + + <p>Nielsen told of some men who were massacred by Seris on the + mainland opposite Tiburon Island. One man, who had gone away from + camp, returned to hear the attack upon his companions. He escaped + and made his way to Gyamus. Procuring assistance this man + returned to the scene of the massacre, only to find stakes in the + sand, with deep trails tramped around them, and blackened remains + of fires, and bones everywhere. Nielsen went on to say that once + from a hiding place he had watched Seris tear up and devour a + dead turtle that he afterward ascertained was putrid. He said + these Seris were the greatest runners of all desert savages. The + best of them could outrun a horse. One Seri, a giant seven feet + tall, could outrun a deer and break its neck with his hands.</p> + + <p>These statements of Nielsen's were remarkable, and personally + I believed them. Men of his stamp were honest and they had + opportunities to learn strange and terrible facts in nature. The + great naturalist Darwin made rather stronger claims for the + barbarism of the savages of Terra del Fuego. Nielsen, pursuing + his theme, told me how he had seen, with his own eyes—and + they were certainly sharp and intelligent—Yaqui Indians + leap on the bare backs of wild horses and locking their legs, + stick there in spite of the mad plunges and pitches. The Gauchos + of the Patagonian Pampas were famous for that feat of + horsemanship. I asked Joe Isbel what he thought of such riding. + And he said: "Wal, I can ride a wild steer bare-back, but excoose + me from tacklin' a buckin' bronch without saddle an' stirrups." + This coming from the acknowledged champion horseman of the + southwest was assuredly significant.</p> + + <p>At five o'clock we came to the end of the road. It led to a + forest glade, overlooking the stream we had followed, and that + was as far as our wagon could go. The glade shone red with + sumach, and surrounded by tall pines, with a rocky and shady glen + below, it appeared a delightful place to camp. As I was about to + unsaddle my horses I heard the cluck-cluck of turkeys. Pulling + out my borrowed rifle, and calling Romer, I ran to the edge of + the glade. The shady, swift stream ran fifty feet or so below me. + Across it I saw into the woods where shade and gray rocks and + colored brush mingled. Again I heard the turkeys cluck. "Look + hard, son," I whispered. "They're close." R.C. came slipping + along below us, with his rifle ready. Suddenly Romer stiffened, + then pointed. "There! Dad!—There!" I saw two gobblers wade + into the brook not more than a hundred and fifty feet away. + Drawing down with fine aim I fired. The bullet splashed water all + over the turkeys. One with loud whirr of wings flew away. The + other leaped across the brook and ran—swift as a + deer—right up the slope. As I tried to get the sight on him + I heard other turkeys fly, and the crack-crack of R.C.'s gun. I + shot twice at my running turkey, and all I did was to scatter the + dirt over him, and make him run faster. R.C. had not done any + better shooting. Romer, wonderful to relate, was so excited that + he forgot to make fun of our marksmanship. We scouted around + some, but the turkeys had gone. By promising to take Romer + hunting after supper I contrived to get him back to the glade, + where we made camp.</p> + + <center> + II + </center> + + <p>After we had unpacked and while the men were pitching the + tents and getting supper I took Romer on a hunt up the creek. I + was considerably pleased to see good-sized trout in the deeper + pools. A little way above camp the creek forked. As the + right-hand branch appeared to be larger and more attractive we + followed its course. Soon the bustle of camp life and the sound + of the horses were left far behind. Romer slipped along beside me + stealthily as an Indian, all eyes and ears.</p> + + <p>We had not traveled thus for a quarter of a mile when my quick + ear caught the cluck-cluck of turkeys. "Listen," I whispered, + halting. Romer became like a statue, his dark eyes dilating, his + nostrils quivering, his whole body strung. He was a Zane all + right. A turkey called again; then another answered. Romer + started, and nodded his head vehemently.</p> + + <p>"Come on now, right behind me," I whispered. "Step where I + step and do what I do. Don't break any twigs."</p> + + <p>Cautiously we glided up the creek, listening now and then to + get the direction, until we came to an open place where we could + see some distance up a ridge. The turkey clucks came from across + the creek somewhere up this open aisle of the forest. I crawled + ahead several rods to a more advantageous point, much pleased to + note that Romer kept noiselessly at my heels. Then from behind a + stone we peeped out. Almost at once a turkey flew down from a + tree into the open lane. "Look Dad!" whispered Romer, wildly. I + had to hold him down. "That's a hen turkey," I said. "See, it's + small and dull-colored. The gobblers are big, shiny, and they + have red on their heads."</p> + + <p>Another hen turkey flew down from a rather low height. Then I + made out grapevines, and I saw several animated dark patches + among them. As I looked three turkeys flopped down to the ground. + One was a gobbler of considerable size, with beautiful white and + bronze feathers. Rather suspiciously he looked down our way. The + distance was not more than a hundred yards. I aimed at him, + feeling as I did so how Romer quivered beside me, but I had no + confidence in Copple's rifle. The sights were wrong for me. The + stock did not fit me. So, hoping for a closer and better shot, I + let this opportunity pass. Of course I should have taken it. The + gobbler clucked and began to trot up the ridge, with the others + after him. They were not frightened, but they appeared rather + suspicious. When they disappeared in the woods Romer and I got + up, and hurried in pursuit. "Gee! why didn't you peg that + gobbler?" broke out Romer, breathlessly. "Wasn't he a peach?"</p> + + <p>When we reached the top of the ridge we advanced very + cautiously again. Another open place led to a steep, rocky + hillside with cedars and pines growing somewhat separated. I was + disappointed in not seeing the turkeys. Then in our anxiety and + eagerness we hurried on, not noiselessly by any means. All of a + sudden there was a rustle, and then a great whirr of wings. Three + turkeys flew like grouse away into the woods. Next I saw the + white gobbler running up the rocky hillside. At first he was in + the open. Aiming as best I could I waited for him to stop or + hesitate. But he did neither. "Peg him, Dad!" yelled Romer. The + lad was right. My best chance I had again forfeited. To hit a + running wild turkey with a rifle bullet was a feat I had not done + so often as to inspire conceit. The gobbler was wise, too. For + that matter all grown gobblers are as wise as old bucks, except + in the spring mating season, when it is a crime to hunt them. + This one, just as I got a bead on him, always ran behind a rock + or tree or shrub. Finally in desperation I took a snap shot at + him, hitting under him, making him jump. Then in rapid succession + I fired four more times. I had the satisfaction of seeing where + my bullets struck up the dust, even though they did go wide of + the mark. After my last shot the gobbler disappeared.</p> + + <p>"Well, Dad, you sure throwed the dirt over him!" declared + Romer.</p> + + <p>"Son, I don't believe I could hit a flock of barns with this + gun," I replied, gazing doubtfully at the old, shiny, + wire-wrapped, worn-out Winchester Copple had lent me. I had been + told that he was a fine marksman and could drive a nail with it. + Upon my return to camp I tried out the rifle, carefully, with a + rest, to find that it was not accurate. Moreover it did not throw + the bullets consistently. It shot high, wide, low; and right + there I abandoned any further use for it. R.C. tried to make me + take his rifle to use on the hunting trip; Nielsen and Lee wanted + me to take theirs, but I was disgusted with myself and refused. + "Thanks, boys," I said. "Maybe this will be a lesson to me."</p> + + <p>We had been up since three o'clock that morning, and the day's + travel had been exhausting. I had just enough energy left to + scrape up a huge, soft pile of pine needles upon which to make + our bed. After that all was oblivion until I was awakened by the + ringing strokes of Nielsen's axe.</p> + + <p>The morning, after the sun got up, was exceedingly delightful. + And this camp was such a contrast to the others, so pleasant and + attractive, that even if we had not arranged to meet Lee Haught + and his sons here I would have stayed a while anyway. Haught was + a famed bear hunter who lived in a log-cabin somewhere up under + the rim of the mesa. While Lee and Nielsen rode off up the trail + to find Haught I gave Romer his first try at rainbow trout. The + water of the creek was low and clear, so that we could see plenty + of good-sized trout. But they were shy. They would not rise + readily to any of our flies, though I got several strikes. We + searched under the stones for worms and secured a few. Whereupon + Romer threw a baited hook to a trout we plainly saw. The trout + gobbled it. Romer had been instructed in the fine art of angling, + but whenever he got a bite he always forgot science. He yanked + this ten-inch rainbow right out. Then in another pool he hooked a + big fellow that had ideas of his own as well as weight and + strength. Romer applied the same strenuous tactics. But this + trout nearly pulled Romer off the rock before the line broke. I + took occasion then to deliver to the lad a lecture. In reply he + said tearfully: "I didn't know he was so—so big."</p> + + <p>When we returned to camp, Haught and his sons were there. Even + at a distance their horses, weapons, and persons satisfied my + critical eye. Lee Haught was a tall, spare, superbly built man, + with square shoulders. He had a brown face with deep lines and + sunken cheeks, keen hazel eyes, heavy dark mustache, and hair + streaked a little with gray. The only striking features of his + apparel were his black sombrero and long spurs.</p> + + <p>His sons, Edd and George, were young, lean, sallow, + still-faced, lanky-legged horsemen with clear gray eyes. They did + not appear to be given, to much speech. Both were then waiting + for the call of the army draft. Looking at them then, feeling the + tranquil reserve and latent force of these Arizonians, I + reflected that the Germans had failed in their psychology of + American character. A few hundred thousand Americans like the + Haught boys would have whipped the German army.</p> + + <p>We held a council. Haught said he would send his son Edd with + Doyle, and by a long roundabout forest road get the wagon up on + the mesa. With his burros and some of our horses packed we could + take part of the outfit up the creek trail, past his cabin, and + climb out on the rim, where we would find grass, water, wood, and + plenty of game.</p> + + <p>The idea of permanent camp before sunset that very day + inspired us to united and vigorous effort. By noon we had the + pack train ready. Edd and Doyle climbed on the wagon to start the + other way. Romer waved his hand: "Good-bye, Mr. Doyle, don't + break down and lose the apples!"</p> + + <p>Then we were off, up the narrow trail along the creek. Haught + led the way. Romer attached himself to the bear-hunter, and + wherever the trail was wide enough rode beside him. R.C. and I + followed. The other men fell in behind the pack train.</p> + + <p>The ride was hot, and for the most part all up hill. That + basin could be likened to the ribs of a washboard: it was all + hills, gorges, ridges and ravines. The hollows of this + exceedingly rough country were thick with pine and oak, the + ridges covered with cedar, juniper, and manzanita. The ground, + where it was not rocky, was a dry, red clay. We passed Haught's + log cabin and clearing of a few acres, where I saw fat hogs and + cattle. Beyond this point the trail grew more zigzag, and + steeper, and shadier. As we got higher up the air grew cooler. I + noted a change in the timber. The trees grew larger, and other + varieties appeared. We crossed a roaring brook lined by thick, + green brush, very pleasant to the eye, and bronze-gold ferns that + were beautiful. We passed oaks all green and yellow, and maple + trees, wonderfully colored red and cerise. Then still higher up I + espied some silver spruces, most exquisite trees of the mountain + forests.</p> + + <p>During the latter half of the climb up to the rim I had to + attend to the business of riding and walking. The trail was + rough, steep, and long. Once Haught called my attention to a flat + stone with a plain trail made by a turtle in ages past when that + sandstone was wet, sedimentary deposit. By and bye we reached the + last slopes up to the mesa, green, with yellow crags and cliffs, + and here and there blazing maples to remind me again that autumn + was at hand.</p> + + <p>At last we surmounted the rim, from which I saw a scene that + defied words. It was different from any I had seen before. Black + timber as far as eye could see! Then I saw a vast bowl inclosed + by dim mountain ranges, with a rolling floor of forested ridges, + and dark lines I knew to be canyons. For wild, rugged beauty I + had not seen its equal.</p><a name="image-0050"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg045_m.jpg" width="765" height="448" alt= + "The Tonto Basin "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>When the pack train reached the rim we rode on, and now + through a magnificent forest at eight thousand feet altitude. Big + white and black clouds obscured the sun. A thunder shower caught + us. There was hail, and the dry smell of dust, and a little cold + rain. Romer would not put on his slicker. Haught said the drought + had been the worst he had seen in twenty years there. Up in this + odorous forestland I could not see where there had been lack of + rain. The forest appeared thick, grassy, gold and yellow and + green and brown. Thickets and swales of oaks and aspens were + gorgeous in their autumn hues. The silver spruces sent down long, + graceful branches that had to be brushed aside or stooped under + as we rode along. Big gray squirrels with white tails and tufted + ears ran up trees to perch on limbs and watch us go by; and other + squirrels, much smaller and darker gray, frisked and chattered + and scolded at a great rate.</p><a name="image-0051"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg046_m.jpg" width="448" height="720" alt= + "Listening for the Hounds "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We passed little depressions that ran down into ravines, and + these, Haught informed me, were the heads of canyons that sloped + away from the rim, deepening and widening for miles. The rim of + the mesa was its highest point, except here and there a few + elevations like Black Butte. Geologically this mesa was an + enormous fault, like the north rim of the Grand Canyon. During + the formation of the earth, or the hardening of the crust, there + had been a crack or slip, so that one edge of the crust stood up + sheer above the other. We passed the heads of Leonard Canyon, + Gentry, and Turkey Canyons, and at last, near time of sunset, + headed down into beautifully colored, pine-sloped, + aspen-thicketed Beaver Dam Canyon.</p> + + <p>A mile from the rim we were deep in the canyon, walled in by + rock-strewn and pine-timbered slopes too steep for a horse to + climb. There was a little gully on the black soil where there + were no evidences of recent water. Haught said he had never seen + Beaver Dam Creek dry until this season. We traveled on until we + came to a wide, open space, where three forks of this canyon met, + and where in the middle of this glade there rose a lengthy wooded + bench, shaded and beautified by stately pines and silver spruce. + At this point water appeared in the creek bed, flowing in tiny + stream that soon gathered volume. Cold and clear and pure it was + all that was needed to make this spot an ideal camp site. Haught + said half a mile below there was a grassy park where the horses + would graze with elk.</p> + + <p>We pitched our tents on this bench, and I chose for my + location a space between two great monarchs of the forests, that + had surely shaded many an Indian encampment. At the upper end of + the bench rose a knoll, golden and green with scrub oaks, and + russet-colored with its lichened rocks. About all we could manage + that evening was to eat and go to bed.</p> + + <p>Morning broke cool and bright, with heavy dew. I got my boots + as wet as if I had waded in water. This surprised me, occurring + on October sixth, and at eight thousand feet altitude, as I had + expected frost. Most of this day was spent in making camp, + unpacking, and attending to the many necessary little details + that make for comfort in the open. To be sure Romer worked very + spasmodically. He spent most of his time on the back of one of + Haught's burros, chasing and roping another. I had not remembered + seeing the lad so happily occupied.</p> + + <p>Late in the afternoon I slipped off down the canyon alone, + taking Haught's rifle for safety rather than a desire to kill + anything. By no means was it impossible to meet a bad bear in + that forest. Some distance below camp I entered a ravine and + climbed up to the level, and soon found myself deep in the + fragrant, colorful, wild forest. Like coming home again was it to + enter that forest of silver-tipped, level-spreading spruce, and + great, gnarled, massive pines, and oak-patches of green and gold, + and maple thickets, with shining aspens standing white against + the blaze of red and purple. High, wavy, bleached grass, brown + mats of pine needles, gray-green moss waving from the spruces, + long strands of sunlight—all these seemed to welcome + me.</p> + + <p>At a distance there was a roar of wind through the forest; + close at hand only a soft breeze. Rustling of twigs caused me to + compose myself to listen and watch. Soon small gray squirrels + came into view all around me, bright-eyed and saucy, very curious + about this intruder. They began to chatter. Other squirrels were + working in the tops of trees, for I heard the fall of pine cones. + Then came the screech of blue jays. Soon they too discovered me. + The male birds were superb, dignified, beautiful. The color was + light blue all over with dark blue head and tufted crest. By and + bye they ceased to scold me, and I was left to listen to the + wind, and to the tiny patter of dropping seeds and needles from + the spruces. What cool, sweet, fresh smell this woody, leafy, + earthy, dry, grassy, odorous fragrance, dominated by scent of + pine! How lonesome and restful! I felt a sense of deep peace and + rest. This golden-green forest, barred with sunlight, canopied by + the blue sky, and melodious with its soughing moan of wind, + absolutely filled me with content and happiness. If a stag or a + bear had trotted out into my sight, and had showed me no + animosity, not improbably I would have forgotten my gun. More and + more as I lived in the open I grew reluctant to kill.</p> + + <p>Presently a porcupine waddled along some rods away, and + unaware of my presence it passed by and climbed a spruce. I saw + it climb high and finally lost sight of it. In searching up and + down this spruce I grew alive to what a splendid and beautiful + tree it was. Where so many trees grew it always seemed difficult + to single out one and study it. This silver spruce was five feet + through at the base, rugged, gray-seamed, thick all the way to + its lofty height. Its branches were small, with a singular + feature that they were uniform in shape, length, and droop. Most + all spruce branches drooped toward the ground. That explained why + they made such excellent shelters from rain. After a hard storm I + had seen the ground dry under a thick-foliaged spruce. Many a + time had I made a bed under one. Elk and deer stand under a + spruce during a rain, unless there is thunder and lightning. In + forests of high altitude, where lightning strikes many trees, I + have never found or heard of elk and deer being killed. This + particular spruce was a natural tent in the forest. The + thick-spreading graceful silver plumes extended clear to the top, + where they were bushiest, and rounded out, with all the largest + branches there. Each dark gray branch was fringed and festooned + with pale green moss, like the cypresses of the South.</p> + + <p>Suddenly I heard a sharp snapping of twigs and then stealthy, + light steps. An animal of some species was moving in the thicket + nearby. Naturally I sustained a thrill, and bethought me of the + rifle. Then I peered keenly into the red rose shadows of the + thicket. The sun was setting now, and though there appeared a + clear golden light high in the forest, along the ground there + were shadows. I heard leaves falling, rustling. Tall white aspens + stood out of the thicket, and two of the large ones bore the old + black scars of bear claws. I was sure, however, that no bear hid + in the thicket at this moment. Presently whatever the animal was + it pattered lightly away on the far side. After that I watched + the quiver of the aspen leaves. Some were green, some yellow, + some gold, but they all had the same wonderful tremor, the silent + fluttering that gave them the most exquisite action in nature. + The sun set, the forest darkened, reminding me of supper time. So + I returned to camp. As I entered the open canyon Romer-boy espied + me—manifestly he had been watching—and he yelled: + "Here comes my Daddy now!... Say, Dad, did you get any pegs?"</p> + + <p>Next morning Haught asked me if I would like to ride around + through the woods and probably get a shot at a deer. Romer coaxed + so to go that I finally consented.</p> + + <p>We rode down the canyon, and presently came to a wide grassy + park inclosed by high green-clad slopes, the features of which + appeared to be that the timber on the west slope was mostly pine, + and on the east slope it was mostly spruce. I could arrive at no + certain reason for this, but I thought it must be owing to the + snow lying somewhat longer on the east slope. The stream here was + running with quite a little volume of water. Our horses were + grazing in this park. I saw fresh elk tracks made the day before. + Elk were quite abundant through this forest, Haught informed me, + and were protected by law.</p> + + <p>A couple of miles down this trail the canyon narrowed, losing + its park-like dimensions. The farther we traveled the more water + there was in the stream, and more elk, deer, and turkey tracks in + the sand. Every half mile or so we would come to the mouth of a + small intersecting canyon, and at length we rode up one of these, + presently to climb out on top. At this distance from the rim the + forest was more open than in the vicinity of our camp, affording + better riding and hunting. Still the thickets of aspen and young + pine were so frequent that seldom could I see ahead more than + several hundred yards.</p> + + <p>Haught led the way, I rode next and Romer kept beside me where + it was possible to do so. There was, however, no trail. How + difficult to keep the lad quiet! I expected of course that Haught + would dismount, and take me to hunt on foot. After a while I + gathered he did not hunt deer except on horseback. He explained + that cowboys rounded up cattle in this forest in the spring and + fall, and deer were not frightened at sound or sight of a horse. + Some of the thrill and interest in the forest subsided for me. I + did not like to hunt in a country where cattle ranged, no matter + how wild they were. Then when we came to a forested ridge bare of + grass and smelling of sheep, that robbed the forest of a little + more glamour. Mexican sheep-herders drove their flocks up this + far sometimes. Haught said bear, lion, lynx, and coyote, + sometimes the big gray wolves, followed the sheep. Deer, however, + hated a sheep-run range.</p> + + <p>Riding was exceedingly pleasant. The forest was shady, cool, + full of sunlight and beauty. Nothing but fire or the lumbermen + could ever rob it of its beauty, silence, fragrance, and of its + temple-like majesty. So provided we did not meet any cattle or + sheep I did not care whether or not we sighted any game. In fact + I would have forgotten we were hunting had not Romer been along. + With him continually seeing things it was difficult to keep from + imagining that we were hunting Indians. The Apaches had once + lived in this country Haught informed us; and it was a habit of + theirs to burn the grass and fallen leaves over every fall, thus + keeping down the underbrush. In this the Indians showed how + near-sighted they were; the future growth of a forest did not + concern them. Usually Indians were better conservationists than + white men.</p> + + <p>We rode across a grove of widely separated, stately pines, at + the far end of which stood a thicket of young pines and other + brush. As we neared this Haught suddenly reined in, and in quick + and noiseless action he dismounted. Then he jerked his rifle from + his saddle-sheath, took a couple of forward steps, and leveled + it. I was so struck with the rugged and significant picture he + made that I did not dismount, and did not see any game until + after he fired. Then as I tumbled off and got out my rifle I + heard Romer gasping and crying out. A gray streak with a bobbing + white end flashed away out of sight to the left. Next I saw a + deer bounding through the thicket. Haught fired again. The deer + ran so fast that I could not get my sights anywhere near him. + Haught thudded through an opening, and an instant later, when + both he and the deer had disappeared, he shot the third time. + Presently he returned.</p> + + <p>"Never could shoot with them open sights nohow," he said. + "Shore I missed thet yearlin' buck when he was standin'. Why + didn't you smoke him up?"</p> + + <p>"Dad, why didn't you peg him?" asked Romer, with intense + regret. "Why, I could have knocked him."</p> + + <p>Then it was incumbent upon me to confess that the action had + appeared to be a little swift. "Wal," said Haught, "when you see + one you want to pile off quick."</p> + + <p>As we rode on Romer naively asked me if ever in my life I had + seen anything run so fast as that deer. We entered another big + grove with thin patches of thicket here and there. Haught said + these were good places for deer to lie down, relying on their + noses to scent danger from windward, and on their eyes in the + other direction. We circled to go round thickets, descending + somewhat into a swale. Here Haught got off a little to the right. + Romer and I rode up a gentle slope toward a thin line of little + pines, through which I could see into the pines beyond. Suddenly + up jumped three big gray bucks. Literally I fell off my horse, + bounced up, and pulled out my rifle. One buck was loping in a + thicket. I could see his broad, gray body behind the slender + trees. I aimed—followed him—got a bead on + him—and was just about to pull trigger when he vanished. + Plunging forward I yelled to Haught. Then Romer cried in his + shrill treble: "Dad, here's a big buck—hurry!" Turning I + ran back. In wild excitement Romer was pointing. I was just in + time to see a gray rump disappear in the green. Just then Haught + shot, and after that he halloed. Romer and I went through the + thicket, working to our left, and presently came out into the + open forest. Haught was leading his horse. To Romer's eager query + he replied: "Shore, I piled him up. Two-year-old black-tail + buck."</p> + + <p>Sure enough he had shot straight this time. The buck lay + motionless under a pine, with one point of his antlers imbedded + deep in the ground. A sleek, gray, graceful deer he was just + beginning to get his winter coat. His color was indeed a bluish + gray. Haught hung him up to a branch, spread his hind legs, and + cut him down the middle. The hunter's dexterity with a knife made + me wonder how many deer he had dressed in his life in the open. + We lifted the deer upon the saddle of Haught's horse and securely + tied it there with a lasso; then with the hunter on foot, leading + the way, we rode through the forest up the main ridge between + Beaver and Turkey Canyons. Toward the rim I found the pines and + spruces larger, and the thickets of aspen denser. We passed the + heads of many ravines running down to the canyons on either side, + and these were blazing gold and red in color, and so thick I + could not see a rod into them. About the middle of the afternoon + we reached camp. With venison hanging up to cool we felt somewhat + like real hunters. R.C. had gone off to look for turkeys, which + enterprise had been unsuccessful.</p> + + <p>Upon the following day, which was October tenth, we started + our bear hunting. Haught's method appeared to me to lack + something. He sent the hounds down below the rim with George; and + taking R.C. and me, and Lee and Nielsen, he led us over to what + he called Horton Thicket. Never would I forget my first sight of + that immense forest-choked canyon. It was a great cove running up + from the basin into the rim. Craggy ledges, broken, ruined, + tottering and gray, slanted down into this abyss. The place was + so vast that these ledges appeared far apart, yet they were many. + An empire of splintered cliff!</p> + + <p>High up these cracked and stained walls were covered with + lichens, with little spruces growing in niches, and tiny yellow + bushes. Points of crumbling rock were stained gold and russet and + bronze. Below the huge gorge was full of aspens, maples, + spruces—a green, crimson, yellow density of timber, + apparently impenetrable. We were accorded different stations on + the ledges all around the cove, and instructed to stay there + until called by four blasts from a hunting horn. My point was so + far from R.C.'s, across the canyon, that I had to use my + field-glass to see him. When I did look he seemed contented. Lee + and Nielsen and Haught I could not see at all. Finding a + comfortable seat, if hard rock could ever be that, I proceeded to + accept my wait for developments. One thing was sure—even + though it were a futile way to hunt it seemed rich in other + recompense for me. My stand towered above a vast colorful slope + down which the wind roared as in a gale. How could I ever hear + the hounds? I watched the storm-clouds scudding across the sky. + Once I saw a rare bird, a black eagle in magnificent flight; and + so whatever happened I had my reward in that sight.</p> + + <p>Nothing happened. For hours and hours I sat there, with + frequent intermissions away from my hard, rocky seat. Toward the + close of afternoon, when the wind began to get cold, I saw that + R.C. had left his stand. He had undoubtedly gone back to camp, + which was some miles nearer his stand than mine. At last I gave + up any hope of hearing either the hounds or the horn, as the roar + of wind had increased. Once I thought I heard a distant rifle + shot. So I got on my horse and set out to find camp. I was on a + promontory, the sides of which were indented by long ravines that + were impassable except near their heads. In fact I had been told + there was only one narrow space where it was possible to get off + this promontory. Lucky indeed that I remembered Haught telling of + this! Anyway I soon found myself lost in a maze of forested heads + of ravines. Finally I went back to the rim on the west side, and + then working along I found our horse-tracks. These I followed, + with difficulty, and after an hour's travel I crossed the narrow + neck of the promontory, and back-tracked myself to camp, arriving + there at sunset.</p> + + <p>The Haughts had put up two bear. One bear had worked around + under one of the great promontories. The hounds had gotten on his + back-trail, staying on it until it grew cold, then had left it. + Their baying had roused the bear out of his bed, and he had + showed himself once or twice on the open rock-slides. Haught saw + the other bear from the rim. This was a big, red, cinnamon bear + asleep under a pine tree on an open slope. Haught said when the + hounds gave tongue on the other trail this red bear awakened, sat + up, and wagged his head slowly. He had never been chased by + hounds. He lay down in his piny bed again. The distance was too + great for an accurate shot, but Haught tried anyway, with the + result that he at least scared the cinnamon off.</p> + + <p>These bear were both thin. As they were not the sheep-killing + and cow-killing kind their food consisted mainly of mast (acorns) + and berries. But this season there were no berries at all, and + very few acorns. So the bears were not fat. When a bear was thin + he could always outrun the hounds; if he was fat he would get hot + and tired enough to climb a tree or mad enough to stop and fight + the dogs.</p> + + <p>Haught told me there were a good many mountain lions and lynx + under the rim. They lived on elk, deer, and turkey. The lynx were + the tuft-eared, short-tailed species. They would attack and kill + a cow-elk. In winter on the rim the snow sometimes fell fifteen + feet deep, so that the game wintered underneath. Snow did not lay + long on the sunny, open ridges of the basin.</p> + + <p>That night a storm-wind roared mightily in the pines. How + wonderful to lie snug in bed, down in the protected canyon, and + hear the marching and retreating gale above in the forest! Next + day we expected rain or snow. But there was only wind, and that + quieted by afternoon. So I took Romer off into the woods. He + carried his rifle and he wore his chaps. I could not persuade him + to part with these. They rustled on the brush and impeded his + movements, and particularly tired him, and made him look like a + diminutive cowboy. How eager, keen, boyishly vain, imaginative! + He was crazy to see game, to shoot anything, particularly bears. + But it contented him to hunt turkeys. Many a stump and bit of + color he mistook for game of some kind. Nevertheless, I had to + take credence in what he thought he saw, for his eyesight was + unusually quick and keen.</p> + + <p>That afternoon Edd and Doyle arrived, reporting an extremely + rough, roundabout climb up to the rim, where they had left the + wagon. As it was impossible to haul the supplies down into the + canyon they were packed down to camp on burros. Isbel had + disapproved of this procedure, a circumstance that struck me with + peculiar significance, which Lee explained by telling me Isbel + was one of the peculiar breed of cowboys, who no sooner were they + out on the range than they wanted to go back to town again. The + truth was I had not met any of that breed, though I had heard of + them. This peculiarity of Isbel's began to be related in my mind + to his wastefulness as a cook. He cooked and threw away as much + as we ate. I asked him to be careful and to go easy with our + supplies, but I could not see that my request made any + difference.</p> + + <p>After supper this evening R.C. heard a turkey call up on the + hill east of camp. Then I heard it, and Romer also. We ran out a + ways into the open to listen the better. R.C.'s ears were + exceptionally keen. He could hear a squirrel jump a long distance + in the forest. In this case he distinctly heard three turkeys fly + up into trees. I heard one. Romer declared he heard a flock. Then + R.C. located a big bronze and white gobbler on a lower limb of a + huge pine. Presently I too espied it. Whereupon we took shot-gun + and rifle, and sallied forth sure of fetching back to camp some + wild turkey meat. Romer tagged at our heels.</p> + + <p>Hurrying to the slope we climbed up at least three-quarters of + the way, as swiftly as possible. And that was work enough to make + me wet and hot. The sun had set and twilight was upon us, so that + we needs must hurry if we were to be successful. Locating the big + gobbler turned out to be a task. We had to climb over brush and + around rocks, up a steep slope, rather open; and we had to do it + without being seen or making noise. Romer, despite his eagerness, + did very well indeed. At last I espied our quarry, and indeed the + sight was thrilling. Wild turkey gobblers to me, who had hunted + them enough to learn how sagacious and cunning and difficult to + stalk they were, always seemed as provocative of excitement as + larger game. This big fellow hopped up from limb to limb of the + huge dead pine, and he bobbed around as if undecided, and tried + each limb for a place to roost. Then he hopped farther up until + we lost sight of him in the gnarled net-work of branches.</p> + + <p>R.C. wanted me to slip on alone, but I preferred to have him + and Romer go too. So we slipped stealthily upward until we + reached the level. Then progress was easier. I went to the left + with the rifle, and R.C. with the .20-gauge, and Romer, went + around to the right. How rapidly it was growing dark! Low down in + the forest I could not distinguish objects. We circled that big + pine tree, and I made rather a wide detour, perhaps eighty yards + from it. At last I got the upper part of the dead pine + silhouetted against the western sky. Moving to and fro I finally + made out a large black lump way out upon a spreading branch. + Could that be the gobbler? I studied that dark enlarged part of + the limb with great intentness, and I had about decided that it + was only a knot when I saw a long neck shoot out. That lump was + the wise old turkey all right. He was almost in the top of the + tree and far out from the trunk. No wild cat or lynx could ever + surprise him there! I reflected upon the instinct that governed + him to protect his life so cunningly. Safe he was from all but + man and gun!</p> + + <p>When I came to aim at him with the rifle I found that I could + see only a blur of sights. Other branches and the tip of a very + high pine adjoining made a dark background. I changed my + position, working around to where the background was all open + sky. It proved to be better. By putting the sights against this + open sky I could faintly see the front sight through the blurred + ring. It was a good long shot even for daylight, and I had a + rifle I knew nothing about. But all the difficulty only made a + keener zest. Just then I heard Romer cry out excitedly, and then + R.C. spoke distinctly. Far more careless than that they began to + break twigs under their feet. The gobbler grew uneasy. How he + stretched out his long neck! He heard them below. I called out + low and sharp: "Stand still! Be quiet!" Then I looked again + through the blurred peep-sight until I caught the front sight + against the open sky. This done I moved the rifle over until I + had the sight aligned against the dark shape. Straining my eyes I + held hard—then fired. The big dark lump on the branch + changed shape, and fell, to alight with a sounding thump. I heard + Romer running, but could not see him. Then his high voice pealed + out: "I got him, Dad. You made a grand peg!"</p> + + <p>Not only had Romer gotten him, but he insisted on packing him + back to camp. The gobbler was the largest I ever killed, not + indeed one of the huge thirty-five pounders, but a fat, heavy + turkey, and quite a load for a boy. Romer packed him down that + steep slope in the dark without a slip, for which performance I + allowed him to stay up a while around the camp-fire.</p> + + <p>The Haughts came over from their camp that night and visited + us. Much as I loved to sit alone beside a red-embered fire at + night in the forest, or on the desert, I also liked upon + occasions to have company. We talked and talked. Old-timer Doyle + told more than one of his "in the early days" stories. Then + Haught told us some bear stories. The first was about an old + black bear charging and sliding down at him. He said no hunter + should ever shoot at a bear above him, because it could come down + at him as swiftly as a rolling rock. This time he worked the + lever of his rifle at lightning speed, and at the last shot he + "shore saw bear hair right before his eyes." His second story was + about a boy who killed a bear, and was skinning it when five more + bears came along, in single file, and made it very necessary that + he climb a tree until they had gone. His third story was about an + old she-bear that had two cubs. Haught happened to ride within + sight of her when evidently she thought it time to put her cubs + in a safe place. So she tried to get them to climb a spruce tree, + and finally had to cuff and spank them to make them go up. In + connection with this story he told us he had often seen she-bears + spank their cubs. More thrilling was his fourth story about a + huge grizzly, a sheep and cattle killer that passed through the + country, leaving death behind him on the range.</p> + + <p>Romer's enjoyment of this story-telling hour around the + glowing camp-fire was equalled by his reluctance to go to bed. + "Aw, Dad, please let me hear one more," he pleaded. His shining + eyes would have weakened a sterner discipline than mine. And + Haught seemed inspired by them.</p> + + <p>"Wal now, listen to this hyar," he began again, with a twinkle + in his eye. "Thar was an old fellar had a ranch in Chevelon + Canyon, an' he was always bein' pestered by mountain lions. His + name was Bill Tinker. Now Bill was no sort of a hunter, fact was + he was afeerd of lions an' bears, but he shore did git riled when + any critters rustled around his cabin. One day in the fall he + comes home an' seen a big she-lion sneakin' around. He grabbed a + club, an' throwed it, and yelled to scare the critter away. Wal, + he had an old water barrel layin' around, an' darned if the lion + didn't run in thet barrel an' hide. Bill run quick an' flopped + the barrel end up, so he had the lion trapped. He had to set on + the barrel to hold it down. Shore that lion raised old Jasper + under the barrel. Bill was plumb scared. Then he seen the lion's + tail stick out through the bung-hole. Bill bent over an' shore + quick tied a knot in thet long tail. Then he run fer his cabin. + When he got to the door he looked back to see the lion tearin' + down the hill fer the woods with the barrel bumpin' behind her. + Bill said he never seen her again till next spring, an' she had + the barrel still on her tail. But what was stranger'n thet Bill + swore she had four cubs with her an' each of them had a keg on + its tail."</p> + + <p>We all roared with laughter except Romer. His interest had + been so all-absorbing, his excitement so great, and his faith in + the story-teller so reverential that at first he could not grasp + the trick at the end of the story. His face was radiant, his eyes + were dark and dilated. When the truth dawned upon him, amaze and + disappointment changed his mobile face, and then came mirth. He + shouted as if to the tree-tops on high. Long after he was in bed + I heard him laughing to himself.</p> + + <p>I was awakened a little after daylight by the lad trying to + get into his boots. His boots were rather tight, and somehow, + even in a dry forest, he always contrived to get them wet, so + that in the morning it was a herculean task for him to pull them + on. This occasion appeared more strenuous than usual. "Son, + what's the idea?" I inquired. "It's just daylight—not time + to get up." He desisted from his labors long enough to pant: + "Uncle Rome's—gone after turkeys. Edd's going to—call + them with—a caller—made out of a turkey's wing-bone." + And I said: "But they've gone now." Whereupon he subsided: + "Darned old boots! I heard Edd and Uncle Rome. I'd been ready if + I could have got into my darned old boots.... See here, Dad, I'm + gonna wear moccasins."</p> + + <center> + III + </center> + + <p>As we were sitting round the camp-fire, eating breakfast, R.C. + and Edd returned; and R.C. carried a turkey gobbler the very size + and color of the one I had shot the night before. R.C.'s face + wore the keen, pleased expression characteristic of it when he + had just had some unusual and satisfying experience.</p><a name= + "image-0052"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg047_m.jpg" width="448" height="700" alt= + "Zane Grey on Don Carlos "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0053"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg048_m.jpg" width="448" height="698" alt= + "Wild Turkey "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>"Sure was great," he said, warming his hands at the fire. "We + went up on the hill where you killed your gobbler last night. Got + there just in the gray light of dawn. We were careful not to make + any noise. Edd said if there were any more turkeys they would + come down at daylight. So we waited until it was light enough to + see. Then Edd got out his turkey bone and began to call. Turkeys + answered from the trees all around. By George, it was immense! + Edd had picked out a thicket of little pines for us to hide in, + and in front of us was a glade with a big fallen tree lying + across it. Edd waited a few moments. The woods was all gray and + quiet. I don't know when I've felt so good. Then he called again. + At once turkeys answered from all around in the trees. Next I + heard a swish of wings, then a thump. Then more swishes. The + turkeys were flying down from their roosts. It seemed to me in my + excitement that there were a hundred of them. We could hear them + pattering over the dry ground. Edd whispered: 'They're down. Now + we got to do some real callin'.' I felt how tense, how cautious + he was. When he called again there was some little difference, I + don't know what, unless it was his call sounded more like a real + turkey. They answered. They were gathering in front of us, and I + made sure were coming into the glade. Edd stopped calling. Then + he whispered: 'Ready now. Look out!'... Sure I was looking all + right. This was my first experience calling turkeys and I simply + shook all over. Suddenly I saw a turkey head stick up over the + log. Then!—up hopped a beautiful gobbler. He walked along + the log, looked and peered, and stretched his neck. Sure he was + suspicious. Edd gave me a hunch, which I took to be a warning to + shoot quick. That was a hard place for me. I wanted to watch the + gobbler. I wanted to see the others. We could hear them all over + the glade. But this was my chance. Quickly I rose and took a peg + at him. A cloud of feathers puffed off him. He gave a great + bounce, flapping his wings. I heard a roaring whirr of other + turkeys. With my eye on my gobbler I seemed to see the air full + of big, black, flying things. My gobbler came down, bounced up + again, got going—when with the second barrel I knocked him + cold. Then I stood there watching the flock whirring every way + into the forest. Must have been thirty-five or forty of them, all + gobblers. It was a great sight. And right here I declared + myself—wild turkey is the game for me."</p> + + <p>Romer manifestly listened to this narrative with mingled + feelings of delight and despair. "Uncle Rome, wild turkey's the + game for me, too ... and by Gosh! I'll fix those boots of + mine!"</p> + + <p>That morning we were scheduled for another bear hunt, on which + I had decided to go down under the rim with Edd and George. Lee + had his doubts about my horse, and desired me to take his, or at + least one of the others. Now his horse was too spirited for me to + ride after hounds, and I did not want to take one of the others, + so I was compelled to ride my own. At the last moment Lee had + been disappointed in getting a mustang he particularly wanted for + me, and so it had fallen about that my horse was the poorest in + the outfit, which to put it mildly was pretty poor. I had made + the best of the matter so far, and hoped to continue doing + so.</p> + + <p>We rode up the east slope of Beaver Dam Canyon, through the + forest, and out along the rim for five or six miles, way on the + other side of the promontory where I had gotten lost. Here Haught + left us, taking with him R.C. and Lee and Nielsen, all of whom + were to have stands along the rim. We hoped to start a bear and + chase him round under the high points toward Horton Thicket.</p> + + <p>The magnificent view from the head of a trail where Edd + started down impressed me so powerfully that I lagged behind. + Below me heaved a split, tossed, dimpled, waving, rolling world + of black-green forestland. Far across it stood up a rugged, blue, + waved range of mountains—the Sierra Anchas.</p> + + <p>The trail was rough, even for Arizonians, which made it for me + little short of impassable. I got off to lead my horse. He had to + be pulled most of the time, wherefore I lost patience with him. I + loved horses, but not stubborn ones. All the way down the rocky + trail the bunch grass and wild oak and manzanita were so thick + that I had to crush my way through. At length I had descended the + steep part to find Edd and George waiting for me below on the + juniper benches. These were slopes of red earth or clay, bare of + grass, but thick with junipers, cactus, and manzanita. This face + of the great rim was a southern exposure, hot and dusty. The + junipers were thick. The green of their foliage somewhat + resembled cedars, but their berries were gray-blue, almost + lavender in color. I tasted several from different trees, until I + found one with sweet, somewhat acrid taste. Significant it was + that this juniper had broken branches where bears had climbed to + eat the fruit, and all around on the ground beneath was bear + sign. Edd said the tracks were cold, but all the same he had to + be harsh with the hounds to hold them in. I counted twenty piles + of bear manure under one juniper, and many places where bears had + scraped in the soft earth and needles.</p> + + <p>We went on down this slope, getting into thicker brush and + rougher ground. All at once the hounds opened up in thrilling + chorus of bays and barks. I saw Edd jump off his horse to stoop + and examine the ground, where evidently he had seen a bear track. + "Fresh—made last night!" he yelled, mounting hurriedly. + "Hi! Hi! Hi!" His horse leaped through the brush, and George + followed. In an instant they were out of sight. Right there my + trouble began. I spurred my horse after them, and it developed + that he differed from me in regard to direction and going. He + hated the brush. But I made him take to it and made him run. + Dodging branches was an old story for me, and if I had been on a + good fast horse I might have kept Edd and George in sight. As it + was, however, I had to follow them by the sound of hoofs and + breaking brush. From the way the hounds bayed I knew they had + struck a hot scent. They worked down the slope, and assuredly + gave me a wild ride to keep within hearing of them. My horse grew + excited, which fact increased his pace, his obstinacy, and + likewise my danger. Twice he unseated me. I tore my coat, lost my + hat, scratched my face, skinned my knees, but somehow I managed + to keep within hearing.</p> + + <p>I came to a deep brush-choked gorge, impassable at that point. + Luckily the hounds turned here and started back my way. By riding + along the edge of this gorge I kept up with them. They climbed + out an intersecting ravine and up on the opposite side. I forced + my horse to go down this rather steep soft slope. At the bottom I + saw a little spring of water with fresh bear tracks around it, + and one place where the bear had caved in a soft bank. Here my + horse suddenly plunged and went to his knees in the yielding red + clay. He snorted in fright. The bank slid with him and I tumbled + off. But nothing serious happened. I ran down, caught him, + mounted, and spurred him up the other side. Once up he began to + run. I heard the boys yelling not far away and the hounds were + baying up above me. They were climbing fast, working to the left, + toward an oak thicket. It took effort to slow down my steed. He + acted crazy and I began to suspect that he had caught a whiff of + the bear. Most horses are afraid of bears and lions. Sight of Edd + and George, who appeared in an open spot, somewhat quieted my + mount.</p> + + <p>"Trail's gettin' hot up there," declared Edd. "That bear's + bedded somewhere an' I'll bet the hounds jumped him. Listen to + Old Tom!"</p> + + <p>How the deep sonorous bay of Old Tom awoke the echoes under + the cliffs! And Old Dan's voice was a hoarse bellow. The other + hounds yelped.</p> + + <p>Edd blew a mellow blast from his hunting-horn, and that awoke + other and more melodious echoes. "There's father up on the rim," + he said. I looked, and finally saw Haught perched like a black + eagle on a crag. His gun flashed in the strong sunlight.</p> + + <p>Somewhere up there the hounds jumped the bear. Anybody could + have told that. What a wild chorus! Edd and George answered to it + with whoops as wild, and they galloped their horses over ground + and through brush where they should have been walked. I followed, + or tried to follow; and here my steed showed his bull-headed, + obstinate nature. If he had been afraid but still game I would + have respected him, but he was a coward and mean. He wanted to + have his way, which was to go the other direction, and to rid + himself of me. So we had it hot and heavy along that rough slope, + with honors about even. As for bruises and scratches, however, I + sustained the most. In the excitement of the chase and anger at + the horse I forgot all about any risks. This always is the way in + adventure. Hot racing blood governed me entirely. Whenever I got + out in an open place, where I could ride fast and hear and see, + then it was all intensely thrilling. Both hounds and comrades + were above me, but apparently working down.</p> + + <p>Thus for me the necessity of hurry somewhat lessened. I slowed + to a trot, peering everywhere, listening with all my ears. I had + stopped yelling, because my horse had misunderstood that. We got + into a region of oak thickets, small saplings, scrubby, close + together, but beautiful with their autumn-tinted leaves. Next I + rode through a maple dell, shady, cool, where the leafy floor was + all rose-pink-red. My horse sent the colored leaves flying.</p> + + <p>Soon, however, we got into the thickets again, low live-oak + and manzanita, which kind of brush my horse detested. I did not + blame him for that. As the hounds began to work down my keen + excitement increased. If they had jumped the bear and were + chasing him down I might run upon him any moment. This both + appealed to me and caused me apprehension. Suppose he were a bad + cinnamon or a grizzly? What would become of me on that horse? I + decided that I had better carry my rifle in my hand, so in case + of a sudden appearance of the bear and I was thrown or had a fall + off, then I would be prepared. So forthwith I drew the rifle out + of the scabbard, remembering as I did so that Haught had + cautioned me, in case of close quarters with a bear and the need + of quick shooting, to jerk the lever down hard. If my horse had + cut up abominably before he now began to cover himself with a + glory of abominableness. I had to jam him through the thickets. + He was an uncomfortable horse to ride under the best + circumstances; here he was as bad as riding a picket-fence. When + he got his head, which was often, he carried me into thickets of + manzanita that we could not penetrate, and had to turn back. I + found that I was working high up the slope, and bad luck as I was + having with my horse, I still appeared to keep fairly close to + the hounds.</p> + + <p>When we topped a ridge of this slope the wind struck us strong + in the face. The baying of the hounds rang clear and full and + fierce. My horse stood straight up. Then he plunged back and + bolted down the slope. His mouth was like iron. I could neither + hold nor turn him. However perilous this ride I had to admit that + at last my horse was running beautifully. In fact he was running + away! He had gotten a hot scent of that bear. He hurdled rocks, + leaped washes, slid down banks, plunged over places that made my + hair stand up stiff, and worst of all he did not try to avoid + brush or trees or cactus. Manzanita he tore right through, + leaving my coat in strips decorating our wake. I had to hold on, + to lie flat, to dodge and twist, and all the time watch for a + place where I might fall off in safety. But I did not get a + chance to fall off. A loud clamoring burst from the hounds + apparently close behind drove my horse frantic. Before he had + only run—now he flew! He left me hanging in the thick + branches of a juniper, from which I dropped blind and breathless + and stunned. Disengaging myself from the broken and hanging + branches I staggered aside, rifle in hand, trying to recover + breath and wits.</p> + + <p>Then, in that nerveless and shaken condition, I heard the + breaking of twigs and thud of soft steps right above me. Peering + up with my half-blinded eyes I saw a huge red furry animal + coming, half obscured by brush. It waved aside from his broad + back. A shock ran over me—a bursting gush of hot blood that + turned to ice as it rushed. "Big cinnamon bear!" I whispered, + hoarsely.</p> + + <p>Instinctively I cocked and leveled the rifle, and though I + could not clearly see the red animal bearing down the slope, such + was my state that I fired. Then followed a roaring crash—a + terrible breaking onslaught upon the brush—and the huge red + mass seemed to flash down toward me. I worked the lever of the + rifle. But I had forgotten Haught's caution. I did not work the + lever far enough down, so that the next cartridge jammed in the + receiver. With a second shock, different this time, I tried + again. In vain! The terrible crashing of brush appeared right + upon me. For an instant that seemed an age I stood riveted to the + spot, my blood congealing, my heart choking me, my tongue pasted + to the roof of my mouth. Then I dropped the rifle and whirled to + plunge away. Like a deer I bounded. I took prodigious bounds. To + escape—to find a tree to leap into—that was my only + thought. A few rods down the slope—it seemed a mile—I + reached a pine with low branches. Like a squirrel I ran up + this—straddled a limb high up—and gazed back.</p> + + <p>My sensations then were dominated by the relief of salvation. + I became conscious of them. Racing blood, bursting heart, labored + pang of chest, prickling, burning skin, a queer involuntary + flutter of muscles, like a palsy—these attested to the + instinctive primitive nature of my state. I heard the crashing of + brush, the pound of soft jumps over to my left. With eyes that + seemed magnifying I gazed to see a big red woolly steer plunge + wildly down the slope and disappear. A third shock possessed + me—amaze. I had mistaken a wild, frightened steer for a red + cinnamon bear!</p> + + <p>I sat there some moments straddling that branch. Then I + descended, and went back to the place I had dropped my rifle, and + securing that I stood a moment listening. The hounds had taken + the chase around below me into the gorge and were drawing away. + It was useless to try to follow them. I sat down again and gave + myself up to meditation.</p> + + <p>I tried to treat the situation as a huge joke, but that would + not go. No joke indeed! My horse had made me risk too much, my + excitement had been too intense, my fright had been too terrible. + Reality for me could not have been any more grave. I had risked + my neck on a stubborn coward of a horse, I had mistaken a steer + for a bear, I had forgotten how to manipulate the borrowed rifle. + These were the careless elements of tragedy. The thought sobered + me. I took the lesson to heart. And I reflected on the possible + point of view of the bear. He had probably gone to sleep on a + full stomach of juniper berries and a big drink of spring water. + Rudely he had been routed out by a pack of yelping, fiendish + hounds. He had to run for his life. What had he done to deserve + such treatment? Possibly he might have killed some of Haught's + pigs, but most assuredly he had never harmed me. In my sober + frame of mind then I rather disapproved of my wholly + unjustifiable murderous intent. I would have deserved it if the + steer had really been the bear. Certainly I hoped the bear would + outrun the hounds and escape. I weighed the wonderful thrill of + the chase, the melody of hounds, the zest of spirited action, the + peril to limb and life against the thing that they were done for, + with the result that I found them sadly lacking. Peril to limb + and life was good for man. If this had not been a fact my + performance would have been as cowardly as that of my horse. + Again I had rise up before my mind the spectacle of opposing + forces—the elemental in man restrained by the spiritual. + Then the old haunting thought returned to vex me—man in his + development needed the exercise of brawn, muscle, bone red-blood, + violence, labor and pain and agony. Nature recognized only the + survival of the fittest of any species. If a man allowed a + spiritual development, intellect, gentleness, to keep him from + all hard, violent action, from tremendous exertion, from fierce + fight with elements and beasts, and his own kind—would he + not soon degenerate as a natural physical man? Evolution was a + stern inevitable seeking of nature for perfection, for the + unattainable. This perfection was something that lived and + improved on strife. Barbarians, Indians, savages were the most + perfect specimens of nature's handiwork; and in proportion to + their development toward so-called civilized life their physical + prowess and perfectness—that was to say, their strength to + resist and live and reproduce their kind—absolutely and + inevitably deteriorated.</p> + + <p>My reflection did not carry me at that time to any positive + convictions of what was truest and best. The only conclusions I + eventually arrived at were that I was sore and bruised and dirty + and torn—that I would be happy if the bear got + away—that I had lost my mean horse and was glad + therefore—that I would have half a dozen horses and rifles + upon my next hunt—and lastly that I would not be in any + hurry to tell about mistaking a steer for a bear, and climbing a + tree. Indeed these last facts have been religiously kept secret + until chronicled here.</p> + + <p>Shortly afterward, as I was making a lame and slow headway + toward Horton Thicket, where I hoped to find a trail out, I heard + Edd yelling, and I answered. Presently we met. He was leading my + horse, and some of the hounds, notably Old Tom and Dan, were with + him.</p> + + <p>"Where's the bear?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"He got away down in the breaks," replied Edd. "George is + tryin' to call the hounds back. What happened to you? I heard you + shoot."</p> + + <p>"My horse didn't care much for me or the brush," I replied. + "He left me—rather suddenly. And—I took a shot at + what I thought was a bear."</p> + + <p>"I seen him once," said Edd, with eyes flashing. "Was just + goin' to smoke him up when he jumped out of sight."</p> + + <p>My mortification and apprehension were somewhat mitigated when + I observed that Edd was dirty, ragged, and almost as much + disheveled as I was. I had feared he would see in my appearance + certain unmistakable evidences that I had made a tenderfoot + blunder and then run for my life. But Edd took my loss of hat, + and torn coat, and general bedraggled state as a matter of + course. Indeed I somehow felt a little pride at his acceptance of + me there in the flesh.</p> + + <p>We rode around the end of this slope, gradually working down + into Horton Thicket, where a wild confusion of dense timber + engaged my sight. Presently George trotted up behind us with the + other dogs. "We lost him down on the hot dry ridges. Hounds + couldn't track him," was all George said. Thereupon Edd blew four + blasts upon his hunting-horn, which were signals to those on the + stands above that the hunt was over for the day.</p> + + <p>Even in the jungle tropics I had never seen such dense shade + as this down in Horton Thicket. The timber grew close and large, + and the foliage was matted, letting little sunlight through. + Dark, green and brown, fragrant, cool thicket indeed it was. We + came to a huge spruce tree, the largest I ever saw—Edd said + eight feet through at the base, but he was conservative. It was a + gnarled, bearded, gray, old monarch of the forest, with bleached, + dead top. For many years it had been the home of swarms of wild + honey bees. Edd said more than one bee-hunter had undertaken to + cut down this spruce. This explained a number of deeply cut + notches in the huge trunk. "I'll bet Nielsen could chop it down," + declared Edd. I admitted the compliment to our brawny Norwegian + axe-wielder, but added that I certainly would not let him do it, + whether we were to get any honey or not.</p> + + <p>By and bye we reached the bottom of the thicket where we + crossed a swift clear cold brook. Here the smells seemed cool, + sweet, wild with spruce and pine. This stream of granite water + burst from a spring under a cliff. What a roar it made! I drank + until I could drink no more. Huge boulders and windfalls, moved + by water at flood season, obstructed the narrow stream-bed. We + crossed to start climbing the north slope, and soon worked up out + of the thicket upon a steep, rocky slope, with isolated pines. We + struck a deer-trail hard to follow. Above me loomed the + pine-tipped rim, with its crags, cliffs, pinnacles, and walls, + all gray, seamed and stained, and in some clefts blazes of deep + red and yellow foliage.</p> + + <p>When we surmounted the slope, and eventually reached camp, I + found Isbel entertaining strangers, men of rough garb, evidently + riders of the range. That was all right, but I did not like his + prodigality with our swiftly diminishing store of eatables.</p> + + <p>To conclude about Isbel—matters pertaining to our + commissary department, during the next few days, went from bad to + worse. Doyle advised me not to take Isbel to task, and was rather + evasive of reasons for so advising me. Of course I listened and + attended to my old guide's advice, but I fretted under the + restraint. We had a spell of bad weather, wind and rain, and hail + off and on, and at length, the third day, a cold drizzling snow. + During this spell we did but little hunting. The weather changed, + and the day afterward I rode my mean horse twenty miles on a deer + hunt. We saw one buck. Upon our arrival at camp, about four + o'clock, which hour was too early for dinner, I was surprised and + angered to find Isbel eating an elaborate meal with three more + strange, rough-appearing men. Doyle looked serious. Nielsen had a + sharp glint in his gray eye. As for myself, this procedure of our + cook's was more than I could stand.</p> + + <p>"Isbel, you're discharged," I said, shortly. "Take your outfit + and get out. Lee will lend you a pack horse."</p> + + <p>"Wal, I ain't fired," drawled Isbel. "I quit before you rode + in. Beat you to it!"</p> + + <p>"Then if you quit it seems to me you are taking liberties with + supplies you have no right to," I replied.</p> + + <p>"Nope. Cook of any outfit has a right to all the chuck he + wants. That's western way."</p> + + <p>"Isbel, listen to this and then get out," I went on. "You've + wasted our supplies just to get us to hurry and break camp. As + for western ways I know something of them. It's a western way for + a man to be square and honest in his dealings with an outsider. + In all my years and in all my trips over the southwest you are + the first westerner to give me the double-cross. You have that + distinction."</p> + + <p>Then I turned my back upon him and walked to my tent. His + acquaintances left at once, and he quickly packed and followed. + Faithful old Doyle took up the duties of cook and we gained, + rather than missed by the change. Our supplies, however, had been + so depleted that we could not stay much longer on the hunt.</p> + + <p>By dint of much determination as to the manner and method of + my next hunt I managed to persuade myself that I could make the + best of this unlucky sojourn in the woods. No rifle, no horse + worth riding, no food to stay out our time—it was indeed + bad luck for me. After supper the tension relaxed. Then I + realized all the men were relieved. Only Romer regretted loss of + Isbel. When the Doyles and Haughts saw how I took my hard luck + they seemed all the keener to make my stay pleasant and + profitable. Little they knew that their regard was more to me + than material benefits and comforts of the trip. To travelers of + the desert and hunters and riders of the open there are always + hard and uncomfortable and painful situations to be met with. And + in meeting these, if it can be done with fortitude and spirit + that win the respect of westerners, it is indeed a reward.</p> + + <p>Next day, in defiance of a thing which never should be + considered—luck—I took Haught's rifle again, and my + lazy, sullen, intractable horse, and rode with Edd and George + down into Horton Thicket. At least I could not be cheated out of + fresh air and beautiful scenery.</p> + + <p>We dismounted and tied our horses at the brook, and while Edd + took the hounds up into the dense thicket where the bears made + their beds, George and I followed a trail up the brook. In + exactly ten minutes the hounds gave tongue. They ran up the + thicket, which was favorable for us, and from their baying I + judged the bear trail to be warm. In the dense forest we could + not see five rods ahead. George averred that he did not care to + have a big cinnamon or a grizzly come running down that black + thicket. And as for myself I did not want one so very exceedingly + much. I tried to keep from letting the hounds excite me, which + effort utterly failed. We kept even with the hounds until their + baying fell off, and finally grew desultory, and then ceased. + "Guess they had the wrong end of his trail," said George. With + this exasperating feature of bear and lion chases I was familiar. + Most hounds, when they struck a trail, could not tell in which + direction the bear was traveling. A really fine hound, however, + like Buffalo Jones' famous Don, or Scott Teague's Sampson or + Haught's Old Dan, would grow suspicious of a scent that gradually + cooled, and would eventually give it up. Young hounds would + back-track game as far as possible.</p> + + <p>After waiting a while we returned to our horses, and presently + Edd came back with the pack. "Big bear, but cold trail. Called + them off," was all he said. We mounted and rode across the mouth + of Horton Thicket round to the juniper slopes, which I had + occasion to remember. I even saw the pine tree which I had so + ignominiously climbed. How we ridicule and scorn some of our + perfectly natural actions—afterwards! Edd had brought three + of the pups that day, two-year-olds as full of mischief as pups + could be. They jumped a bunch of deer and chased them out on the + hard red cedar covered ridges. We had a merry chase to head them + off. Edd gave them a tongue-lashing and thrashing at one and the + same time. I felt sorry for the pups. They had been so full of + frolic and fight. How crestfallen they appeared after Edd got + through! "Whaddaye mean," yelled Edd, in conclusion. "Chasin' + deer!... Do you think you're a lot of rabbit dogs?" From the way + the pups eyed Edd so sheepishly and adoringly, I made certain + they understood him perfectly, and humbly confessed their + error.</p> + + <p>Old Tom and Old Dan had not come down off the slopes with us + after the pups. And upon our return both the old hounds began to + bay deep and fast. With shrill ki-yi the pups bounded off, + apparently frantic to make up for misbehavior. Soon the whole + pack was in full chorus. Edd and George spurred into the brush, + yelling encouragement to the hounds. This day I managed to make + my horse do a little of what I wanted. To keep in sight of the + Haught boys was indeed beyond me; but I did not lose sound of + them. This chase led us up slope and down slope, through the + brush and pine thickets, over bare ridges and into gullies; and + eventually out into the basin, where the hounds got beyond + hearing.</p> + + <p>"One of them long, lean, hungry bears," remarked Edd. "He'd + outrun any dogs."</p> + + <p>Leisurely then we turned to the three-hour ride back to camp. + Hot sun in the open, cool wind in the shade, dry smells of the + forest, green and red and orange and purple of the + foliage—these rendered the hours pleasant for me. When I + reached camp I found Romer in trouble. He had cut his hand with a + forbidden hunting knife. As he told me about it his face was a + study and his explanation was astounding. When he finished I + said: "You mean then that my hunting knife walked out of its + sheath on my belt and followed you around and cut you of its own + accord?"</p> + + <p>"Aw, I—I—it—" he floundered.</p> + + <p>Whereupon I lectured him about forbidden things and + untruthfulness. His reply was: "But, Dad, it hurts like sixty. + Won't you put somethin' on it?"</p> + + <p>I dressed and bandaged the trifling cut for him, telling him + the while how little Indian boys, when cut or kicked or bruised, + never showed that they were hurt. "Huh!" he grunted. "Guess + there's no Indian in me.... I must take after mother!"</p> + + <p>That afternoon and night the hounds straggled in, Old Tom and + Dan first, and then the others, one by one, fagged-out and + foot-sore. Next morning, however, they appeared none the worse + for their long chase. We went again to Horton Thicket to rout out + a bear.</p> + + <p>This time I remained on top of the rim with R.C. and Nielsen; + and we took up a stand across the canyon, near where my first + stand had been. Here we idled the hours away waiting for the + hounds to start something. While walking along the rim I happened + to look across the big cove that cut into the promontory, and way + on the other slope what did I espy but a black bear. He appeared + to be very small, or merely a cub. Running back to R.C. and + Nielsen I told them, and we all took up our rifles. It occurred + to me that the distance across this cove was too far for accurate + shooting, but it never occurred to me to jump on my horse and + ride around the head of the cove.</p> + + <p>"He's not scared. Let's watch him," suggested R.C.</p><a name= + "image-0054"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg049_m.jpg" width="448" height="671" alt= + "Wild Turkeys "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0055"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg050_m.jpg" width="448" height="698" alt= + "The White Quaking Asps "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>We saw this bear walk along, poke around, dig into the ground, + go behind trees, come out again, and finally stand up on his hind + feet and apparently reach for berries or something on a bush. + R.C. bethought himself of his field-glass. After one look he + exclaimed: "Say, fellows, he's a whopper of a bear! He'll weigh + five hundred pounds. Just take a look at him!"</p> + + <p>My turn with the glasses revealed to me that what I had + imagined to be a cub was indeed a big bear. After Nielsen looked + he said: "Never saw one so big in Norway."</p> + + <p>"Well, look at that black scoundrel!" exclaimed R.C. "Standing + up! Looking around! Wagging his head!... Say, you saw him first. + Suppose you take some pegs at him."</p> + + <p>"Wish Romer were here. I'd let him shoot at that bear," I + replied. Then I got down on my knee, and aiming as closely as + possible I fired. The report rang out in the stillness, making + hollow echoes. We heard the bullet pat somewhere. So did the bear + hear it. Curiously he looked around, as if something had struck + near him. But scared he certainly was not. Then I shot four times + in quick succession.</p> + + <p>"Well, I'll be darned!" ejaculated R.C. "He heard the bullets + hit and wonders what the dickens.... Say, now he hears the + reports! Look at him stand!"</p> + + <p>"Boys, smoke him up," I said, after the manner of Haught's + vernacular. So while I reloaded R.C. and Nielsen began to shoot. + We had more fun out of it than the bear. Evidently he located us. + Then he began to run, choosing the open slope by which he had + come. I got five more shots at him as he crossed this space, and + the last bullet puffed up dust under him, making him take a + header down the slope into the thicket. Whereupon we all had a + good laugh. Nielsen appeared particularly pleased over his first + shots at a real live bear.</p> + + <p>"Say, why didn't you think to ride round there?" queried R.C. + thoughtfully. "He didn't see us. He wasn't scared. In a few + minutes you could have been on the rim of that slope right over + him. Got him sure!"</p> + + <p>"R.C. why didn't you think to tell me to do that?" I retorted. + "Why don't we ever think the right thing before it is too + late?"</p> + + <p>"That's our last chance this year—I feel it in my + bones," declared R.C. mournfully.</p> + + <p>His premonition turned out to be correct. Upon our arrival at + camp we heard some very disquieting news. A neighbor of Haught's + had taken the trouble to ride up to inform us about the epidemic + of influenza. The strange disease was all over the country, in + the cities, the villages, the cow-camps, the + mines—everywhere. At first I thought Haught's informant was + exaggerating a mere rumor. But when he told of the Indians dying + on the reservations, and that in Flagstaff eighty people had + succumbed in a few weeks—then I was thoroughly alarmed. + Imperative was it indeed for me to make a decision at once. I + made it instantly. We would break camp. So I told the men. Doyle + was relieved and glad. He wanted to get home to his family. The + Haughts, naturally, were sorry. My decision once arrived at, the + next thing was to consider which way to travel. The long ten-day + trip down into the basin, round by Payson, and up on the rim + again, and so on to Flagstaff was not to be considered at all. + The roads by way of Winslow and Holbrook were long and bad. Doyle + wanted to attempt the old army road along the rim made by General + Crook when he moved the captured Apaches to the reservation + assigned to them. No travel over this road for many years! Haught + looked dubious, but finally said we could chop our way through + thickets, and haul the wagon empty up bad hills. The matter of + decision was left to me. Decisions of such nature were not easy + to make. The responsibility was great, but as the hunt had been + for me it seemed incumbent upon me to accept responsibility. What + made me hesitate at all was the fact that I had ridden five miles + or more along the old Crook road. I remembered. I told Lee and I + told Nielsen that we would find it tough going. Lee laughed like + a cowboy: "We'll go a-hummin'," he said. Nielsen shrugged his + brawny shoulders. What were obstacles to this man of the desert? + I realized that his look had decided me.</p> + + <p>"All right, men, we'll try the old Crook road," I said. "Pack + what you can up to the wagon to-day, and to-morrow early we'll + break camp."</p> + + <p>I walked with the Haughts from our camp across the brook to + theirs, where we sat down in the warm sunshine. I made light of + this hunting trip in which it had turned out I had no gun, no + horse, no blankets, no rain-proof tent, no adequate amount of + food supplies, and no good luck, except the wonderful good luck + of being well, of seeing a magnificent country, of meeting some + more fine westerners. But the Haughts appeared a little slow to + grasp, or at least to credit my philosophy. We were just + beginning to get acquainted. Their regret was that they had been + unable to see me get a bear, a deer, a lion, and some turkeys. + Their conviction, perhaps formed from association with many + sportsman hunters, was that owing to my bad luck I could not and + would not want to come again.</p> + + <p>"See here, Haught," I said. "I've had a fine time. Now forget + about this hunt. It's past. We'll plan another. Will you save + next fall for me?"</p> + + <p>"I shore will," he replied.</p> + + <p>"Very well, then, it's settled. Say by August you and the boys + cut a trail or two in and out of Horton Thicket. I'll send you + money in advance to pay for this work, and get new hounds and + outfit. I'll leave Flagstaff on September fifteenth. Meet you + here September twenty-first, along about noon."</p> + + <p>We shook hands upon the deal. It pleased me that the Haughts + laughed at me yet appeared both surprised and happy. As I left I + heard Edd remark: "Not a kick!... Meet him next year at noon! + What do you know about thet?" This remark proved that he had paid + me a compliment in eastern slang most likely assimilated from + R.C. and Romer.</p> + + <p>The rest of the afternoon our camp resembled a beehive, and + next morning it was more like a bedlam. The horses were fresh, + spirited, and they had tender backs; the burros stampeded because + of some surreptitious trick of Romer's. But by noon we had all + the outfit packed in the wagon. Considering the amount of stuff, + and the long, rough climb up to the wagon, this was a most + auspicious start. I hoped that it augured well for us, but while + I hoped I had a gloomy foreboding. We bade good-bye to Haught and + his son George. Edd offered to go with us as far as he knew the + country, which distance was not many miles. So we set out upon + our doubtful journey, our saddle-horses in front of the lumbering + wagon.</p> + + <p>We had five miles of fairly level road through open forest + along the rim, and then we struck such a rocky jumble of downhill + grade that the bundles fell off the wagon. They had to be tied + on. When we came to a long slow slant uphill, a road of loose + rocks, we made about one mile an hour. This slow travel worked + havoc upon my mind. I wanted to hurry. I wanted to get out of the + wilds. That awful rumor about influenza occupied my mind and + struck cold fear into my heart. What of my family? No making the + best of this! Slowly we toiled on. Sunset overtook us at a rocky + ledge which had to be surmounted. With lassos on saddle horses in + front of the two teams, all pulling hard, we overcame that + obstacle. But at the next little hill, which we encountered about + twilight, one of the team horses balked. Urging him, whipping + him, served no purpose; and it had bad effect upon the other + horses. Darkness was upon us with the camp-site Edd knew of still + miles to the fore. No grass, no water for the horses! But we had + to camp there. All hands set to work. It really was fun—it + should have been fine for me—but my gloomy obsession to + hurry obscured my mind. I marveled at old Doyle, over seventy, + after that long, hard day, quickly and efficiently cooking a good + hot supper. Romer had enjoyed the day. He said he was tired, but + would like to stay up beside the mighty camp-fire Nielsen built. + I had neither energy or spirit to oppose him. The night was dark + and cold and windy; the fire felt so good that I almost went + asleep beside it. We had no time to put up tents. I made our bed, + crawled into it, stretched out with infinite relief; and the last + thing I was aware of was Romer snuggling in beside me.</p> + + <p>Morning brought an early bestirring of every one. We had to + stir to get warm. The air nipped like cold pincers. All the + horses were gone; we could not hear a bell. But Lee did not + appear worried. I groaned in spirit. More delay! Gloom assailed + me. Lee sallied out with his yellow dog Pups. I had forgotten the + good quality of Pups, but not my dislike for him. He barked + vociferously, and that annoyed me. R.C. and I helped Edd and + Nielsen pack the wagon. We worked quick and hard. Then Doyle + called us to breakfast. We had scarcely started to eat when we + heard a jangle of bells and the pound of hoofs. I could not + believe my ears. Our horses were lost. Nevertheless suddenly they + appeared, driven by Lee riding bareback, and Pups barking his + head off. We all jumped up with ropes and nose-bags to head off + the horses, and soon had them secured. Not one missing! I asked + Lee how in the world he had found that wild bunch in less than an + hour. Lee laughed. "Pups. He rounded them up in no time."</p> + + <p>Then I wanted to go away and hide behind a thicket and kick + myself, but what I actually did was to give Pups part of my meat. + I reproached myself for my injustice to him. How often had I been + deceived in the surface appearance of people and things and dogs! + Most of our judgments are wrong. We do not see clearly.</p> + + <p>By nine o'clock we were meeting our first obstacle—the + little hill at which the sorrel horse had balked. Lo! rested and + full of grain, he balked again! He ruined our start. He spoiled + the teams. Lee had more patience than I would have had. He + unhitched the lead team and in place of the sorrel put a saddle + horse called Pacer. Then Doyle tried again and surmounted the + hill. Our saddle horses slowly worked ahead over as rocky and + rough a road as I ever traveled. Most of the time we could see + over the rim down into the basin. Along here the rim appeared to + wave in gentle swells, heavily timbered and thickly rock-strewn, + with heads of canyons opening down to our right. I saw deer + tracks and turkey tracks, neither of which occasioned me any + thrills now. About the middle of the afternoon Edd bade us + farewell and turned back. We were sorry to see him go, but as all + the country ahead of us was as unfamiliar to him as to us there + seemed to be no urgent need of him.</p> + + <p>We encountered a long, steep hill up which the teams, and our + saddle horses combined, could not pull the wagon. We unpacked it, + and each of us, Romer included, loaded a bundle or box in front + of his saddle, and took it up the hill. Then the teams managed + the wagon. This incident happened four times in less than as many + miles. The team horses, having had a rest from hard labor, had + softened, and this sudden return to strenuous pulling had made + their shoulders sore. They either could not or would not pull. We + covered less than ten miles that day, a very discouraging + circumstance. We camped in a pine grove close to the rim, a + splendid site that under favorable circumstances would have been + enjoyable. At sunset R.C. and Nielsen and Romer saw a black bear + down under the rim. The incident was so wonderful for Romer that + it brightened my spirits. "A bear! A big bear, Dad!... I saw him! + He was alive! He stood up—like this—wagging his head. + Oh! I saw him!"</p> + + <p>Our next day's progress was no less than a nightmare. Crawling + along, unpacking and carrying, and packing again, we toiled up + and down the interminable length of three almost impassable + miles. When night overtook us it was in a bad place to camp. No + grass, no water! A cold gale blew out of the west. It roared + through the forest. It blew everything loose away in the + darkness. It almost blew us away in our beds. The stars appeared + radiantly coldly white up in the vast blue windy vault of the + sky. A full moon soared majestically. Shadows crossed the weird + moon-blanched forest glades.</p> + + <p>At daylight we were all up, cramped, stiff, half frozen, + mostly silent. The water left in the buckets was solid ice. + Suddenly some one discovered that Nielsen was missing. The fact + filled me with consternation and alarm. He might have walked in + his sleep and fallen over the rim. What had become of him? All + his outfit lay scattered round in his bed. In my bewilderment I + imagined many things, even to the extreme that he might have left + us in the lurch. But when I got to that sad pass of mind I + suddenly awakened as if out of an evil dream. My worry, my hurry + had obsessed me. High time indeed was it for me to meet this + situation as I had met other difficult ones. To this end I went + out away from camp, and forgot myself, my imagined possibilities, + and thought of my present responsibility, and the issue at hand. + That instant I realized my injustice toward Nielsen, and + reproached myself.</p> + + <p>Upon my return to camp Nielsen was there, warming one hand + over the camp-fire and holding a cup of coffee in the other.</p> + + <p>"Nielsen, you gave us a scare. Please explain," I said.</p> + + <p>"Yes, sir. Last night I was worried. I couldn't sleep. I got + to thinking we were practically lost. Some one ought to find out + what was ahead of us. So I got up and followed the road. Bright + moonlight. I walked all the rest of the night. And that's all, + sir."</p> + + <p>I liked Nielsen's looks then. He reminded me of Jim Emett, the + Mormon giant to whom difficulties and obstacles were but spurs to + achievement. Such men could not be defeated.</p> + + <p>"Well, what did you find out?" I inquired.</p> + + <p>"Change of conditions, sir," he replied, as a mate to his + captain. "Only one more steep hill so far as I went. But we'll + have to cut through thickets and logs. From here on the road is + all grown over. About ten miles west we turn off the rim down a + ridge."</p> + + <p>That about the turning-off place was indeed good news. I + thanked Nielsen. And Doyle appeared immensely relieved. The + packing and carrying had begun to tell on us. Pups ingratiated + himself into my affections. He found out that he could coax meat + and biscuit from me. We had three axes and a hatchet; and these + we did not pack in the wagon. When Doyle finally got the teams + started Lee and Nielsen and R.C. and I went ahead to clear the + road. Soon we were halted by thickets of pines, some of which + were six inches in diameter at the base. The road had ceased to + be rocky, and that, no doubt, was the reason pine thickets had + grown up on it, The wagon kept right at our heels, and many times + had to wait. We cut a way through thickets, tore rotten logs to + pieces, threw stumps aside, and moved windfalls. Brawny Nielsen + seemed ten men in one! What a swath he hacked with his big axe! + When I rested, which circumstance grew oftener and oftener, I had + to watch Nielsen with his magnificent swing of the axe, or with + his mighty heave on a log. Time and again he lifted tree trunks + out of the road. He sweat till he was wringing wet. Neither that + day nor the next would we have ever gotten far along that stretch + of thicketed and obstructed road had it not been for Nielsen.</p> + + <p>At sunset we found ourselves at the summit of a long slowly + ascending hill, deeply forested. It took all the horses together + to pull the wagon to the top. Thus when we started down a steep + curve, horses and men both were tired. I was ahead riding beside + Romer. Nielsen and R.C. were next, and Lee had fallen in behind + the wagon. As I turned the sharp curve I saw not fifty feet below + me a huge log obstructing the road.</p> + + <p>"Look out! Stop!" I yelled, looking back.</p> + + <p>But I was too late. The horses could not hold back the heavily + laden wagon, and they broke into a gallop. I saw Doyle's face + turn white—heard him yell. Then I spurred my horse to the + side. Romer was slow or frightened. I screamed at him to get off + the road. My heart sank sick within me! Surely he would be run + down. As his pony Rye jumped out of the way the shoulder of the + black horse, on the off side, struck him a glancing blow. Then + the big team hurdled the log, the tongue struck with a crash, the + wagon stopped with a lurch, and Doyle was thrown from his + seat.</p> + + <p>Quick as a flash Nielsen was on the spot beside the team. The + bay horse was down. The black horse was trying to break away. + Nielsen cut and pulled the bay free of the harness, and Lee came + tearing down to grasp and hold the black.</p> + + <p>Like a fool I ran around trying to help somehow, but I did not + know what to do. I smelled and then saw blood, which fact + convinced me of disaster. Only the black horse that had hurdled + the log made any effort to tear away. The other lay quiet. When + finally it was extricated we found that the horse had a bad cut + in the breast made by a snag on the log. We could find no damage + done to the wagon. The harness Nielsen had cut could be mended + quickly. What a fortunate outcome to what had seemed a very grave + accident! I was thankful indeed. But not soon would I forget + sight of Romer in front of that plunging wagon.</p> + + <p>With the horses and a rope we hauled the log to one side of + the road, and hitching up again we proceeded on our way. Once I + dropped back and asked Doyle if he was all right. "Fine as a + fiddle," he shouted. "This's play to what we teamsters had in the + early days." And verily somehow I could see the truth of that. A + mile farther on we made camp; and all of us were hungry, weary, + and quiet.</p> + + <p>Doyle proved a remarkable example to us younger men. Next + morning he crawled out before any one else, and his call was + cheery. I was scarcely able to get out of my bed, but I was + ashamed to lie there an instant after I heard Doyle. Possibly my + eyesight was dulled by exhaustion when it caused me to see myself + as a worn, unshaven, wrinkled wretch. Romer-boy did not hop out + with his usual alacrity. R.C. had to roll over in his bed and get + up on all fours.</p> + + <p>We had scant rations for three more days. It behooved us to + work and waste not an hour. All morning, at the pace of a snail + it seemed, we chopped and lifted and hauled our way along that + old Crook road. Not since my trip down the Santa Rosa river in + Mexico had I labored so strenuously.</p> + + <p>At noon we came to the turning-off junction, an old blazed + road Doyle had some vague knowledge of. "It must lead to Jones' + ranch," Doyle kept saying. "Anyway, we've got to take it." North + was our direction. And to our surprise, and exceeding gladness, + the road down this ridge proved to be a highway compared to what + we had passed. In the open forest we had to follow it altogether + by the blazes on the trees. But with all our eyes alert that was + easy. The grade was down hill, so that we traveled fast, covering + four miles an hour. Occasionally a log or thicket halted rapid + progress. Toward the end of the afternoon sheep and cattle trails + joined the now well-defined road, and we knew we were approaching + a ranch. I walked, or rather limped the last mile, for the very + good reason that I could not longer bear the trot of my horse. + The forest grew more open, with smaller pines, and fewer + thickets. At sunset I came out upon the brow of a deep + barren-looking canyon, in the middle of which squatted some old + ruined log-cabins. Deserted! Alas for my visions of a cup of cold + milk. For hours they had haunted me. When Doyle saw the + broken-down cabins and corrals he yelled: "Boys, it's Jones' + Ranch. I've been here. We're only three miles from Long Valley + and the main road!"</p> + + <p>Elated we certainly were. And we rushed down the steep hill to + look for water. All our drinking water was gone, and the horses + had not slaked their thirst for two days. Separating we rode up + and down the canyon. R.C. and Romer found running water. + Thereupon with immense relief and joy we pitched camp near the + cabins, forgetting our aches and pains in the certainty of + deliverance.</p> + + <p>What a cold, dismal, bleak, stony, and lonesome place! We + unpacked only bedding, and our little store of food. And huddled + around the camp-fire we waited upon Doyle's cooking. The old + pioneer talked while he worked.</p> + + <p>"Jones' ranch!—I knew Jones in the early days. And I've + heard of him lately. Thirty years ago he rode a prairie schooner + down into this canyon. He had his wife, a fine, strong girl, and + he had a gun, an axe, some chuck, a few horses and cattle, and + not much else. He built him that cabin there and began the real + old pioneering of the early days. He raised cattle. He freighted + to the settlements twice a year. In twenty-five years he had + three strapping boys and a girl just as strapping. And he had a + fortune in cattle. Then he sold his stock and left this ranch. He + wanted to give his faithful wife and his children some of the + comforts and luxuries and advantages of civilization. The war + came. His sons did not wait for the draft. They entered the army. + I heard a story about Abe Jones, the old man's first boy. Abe was + a quiet sort of chap. When he got to the army training camp a + sergeant asked Abe if he could shoot. Abe said: 'Nope, not much.' + So they gave him a rifle and told him to shoot at the near + target. Abe looked at it sort of funny like and he picked out the + farthest target at one thousand yards. And he hit the bull's eye + ten times straight running. 'Hey!' gasped the sergeant, 'you + long, lanky galoot! You said you couldn't shoot.' Abe sort of + laughed. 'Reckon I was thinkin' about what Dad called + shootin'.'... Well, Abe and his brothers got to France to the + front. Abe was a sharpshooter. He was killed at Argonne. Both his + brothers were wounded. They're over there yet.... I met a man not + long ago who'd seen Jones recently. And the old pioneer said he + and his wife would like to be back home. And home to them means + right here—Jones' Ranch!"</p> + + <p>Doyle's story affected me profoundly. What a theme for a + novel! I walked away from the camp-fire into the dark, lonely, + melancholy Arizona night. The ruined cabins, the broken-down + corrals, the stone fence, the wash where water ran at wet + season—all had subtly changed for me. Leaning in the + doorway of the one-room cabin that had been home for these + Joneses I was stirred to my depths. Their spirits abided in that + lonely hut. At least I felt something there—something + strange, great, simple, inevitable, tragic as life itself. Yet + what could have been more beautiful, more splendid than the life + of Jones, and his wife, and daughter, and sons, especially Abe? + Abe Jones! The name haunted me. In one clear divining flash I saw + the life of the lad. I yearned with tremendous passion for the + power to tell the simplicity, the ruggedness, the pathos and the + glory of his story. The moan of wind in the pines seemed a + requiem for the boy who had prattled and romped and played under + them, who had chopped and shot and rode under them. Into his + manhood had gone something of their strength and nature.</p> + + <p>We sought our beds early. The night down in that deep, open + canyon was the coldest we had experienced. I slept but little. At + dawn all was hoar-white with frost. It crackled under foot. The + air had a stinging bite. Yet how sweet, pure, cold to + breathe!</p> + + <p>Doyle's cheery: "Come and get it," was welcome call to + breakfast. Lee and Pups drove the horses into one of the old + corrals. In an hour, while the frost was yet hard and white, we + were ready to start. Then Doyle somewhat chilled our hopes: + "Twenty years ago there was a bad road out of here. Maybe one's + been made since."</p> + + <p>But one had not been made. And the old road had not been used + for years. Right at the outset we struck a long, steep, winding, + rocky road. We got stalled at the very foot of it. More toil! + Unloading the wagon we packed on our saddles the whole load more + than a mile up this last and crowning obstacle. Then it took all + the horses together to pull the empty wagon up to a level. By + that time sunset had overtaken us. Where had the hours gone? Nine + hours to go one mile! But there had to be an end to our agonies. + By twilight we trotted down into Long Valley, and crossed the + main road to camp in a grove we remembered well. We partook of a + meagre supper, but we were happy. And bed that night on a thick + layer of soft pine needles, in a spot protected from the cold + wind, was immensely comfortable.</p> + + <p>Lee woke the crowd next morning. "All rustle," he yelled. + "Thirty-five miles to Mormon Lake. Good road. We'll camp there + to-night."</p> + + <p>How strange that the eagerness to get home now could only be + compared to the wild desire for the woods a few weeks back! We + made an early start. The team horses knew that road. They knew + they were now on the way home. What difference that made! Jaded + as they were they trotted along with a briskness never seen + before on that trip. It began to be a job for us to keep up with + Lee, who was on the wagon. Unless a rider is accustomed to + horseback almost all of the time a continuous trot on a hard road + will soon stove him up. My horse had an atrocious trot. Time and + again I had to fall behind to a walk and then lope ahead to catch + up. I welcomed the hills that necessitated Lee walking the + teams.</p> + + <p>At noon we halted in a grassy grove for an hour's rest. That + seemed a precious hour, but to start again was painful. I noticed + that Romer-boy no longer rode out far in front, nor did he chase + squirrels with Pups. He sagged, twisted and turned, and lolled in + his saddle. Thereafter I tried to keep close to him. But that was + not easy, for he suspected me of seeing how tired he was, and + kept away from me. Thereafter I took to spying upon him from some + distance behind. We trotted and walked, trotted and walked the + long miles. Arizona miles were twice as long as ordinary properly + measured miles. An event of the afternoon was to meet some + Mexican sheepherders, driving a flock south. Nielsen got some + fresh mutton from them. Toward sunset I caught Romer hanging over + his saddle. Then I rode up to him. "Son, are you tired?" I asked. + "Oh, Dad, I sure am, but I'm going to ride Rye to Mormon Lake." I + believed he would accomplish it. His saddle slipped, letting him + down. I saw him fall. When he made no effort to get up I was + frightened. Rye stood perfectly still over him. I leaped off and + ran to the lad. He had hit his head on a stone, drawing the + blood, and appeared to be stunned. I lifted him, holding him up, + while somebody got some water. We bathed his face and washed off + the blood. Presently he revived, and smiled at me, and staggered + out of my hold.</p> + + <p>"Helluva note that saddle slipped!" he complained. Manifestly + he had acquired some of Joe Isbel's strong language. Possibly he + might have acquired some other of the cowboy's traits, for he + asked to have his saddle straightened and to be put on his horse. + I had misgivings, but I could not resist him then. I lifted him + upon Rye. Once more our cavalcade got under way.</p> + + <p>Sunset, twilight, night came as we trotted on and on. We faced + a cold wind. The forest was black, gloomy, full of shadows. Lee + gave us all we could do to keep up with him. At eight o'clock, + two hours after dark, we reached the southern end of Mormon Lake. + A gale, cold as ice, blew off the water from the north. Half a + dozen huge pine trees stood on the only level ground near at + hand. "Nielsen, fire—pronto!" I yelled. "Aye, sir," he + shouted, in his deep voice. Then what with hurry and bustle to + get my bedding and packs, and to thresh my tingling fingers, and + press my frozen ears, I was selfishly busy a few minutes before I + thought of Romer.</p> + + <p>Nielsen had started a fire, that blazed and roared with + burning pine needles. The blaze blew low, almost on a level with + the ground, and a stream of red sparks flew off into the woods. I + was afraid of forest fire. But what a welcome sight that golden + flame! It lighted up a wide space, showing the huge pines, + gloom-encircled, and a pale glimmer of the lake beyond. The + fragrance of burning pine greeted my nostrils.</p> + + <p>Dragging my bags I hurried toward the fire. Nielsen was + building a barricade of rocks to block the flying sparks. + Suddenly I espied Romer. He sat on a log close to the blaze. His + position struck me as singular, so I dropped my burdens and went + to him. He had on a heavy coat over sweater and under coat, which + made him resemble a little old man. His sombrero was slouched + down sidewise, his gloved hands were folded across his knees, his + body sagged a little to one side, his head drooped. He was + asleep. I got around so I could see his face in the firelight. + Pale, weary, a little sad, very youthful and yet determined! A + bloody bruise showed over his temple. He had said he would ride + all the way to Mormon Lake and he had done it. Never, never will + that picture fade from my memory! Dear, brave, wild, little lad! + He had made for me a magnificent success of this fruitless + hunting trip. I hoped and prayed then that when he grew to man's + estate, and faced the long rides down the hard roads of life, he + would meet them and achieve them as he had the weary thirty-five + Arizona miles from Long Valley to Mormon Lake.</p><a name= + "image-0056"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg051_m.jpg" width="448" height="687" alt= + "Skunk, a Frequent and Rather Dangerous Visitor in Camp "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0057"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg052a_m.jpg" width="448" height="332" alt= + "On the Rim "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0058"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg052b_m.jpg" width="448" height="339" alt= + "Where Elk, Deer, and Turkey Drink "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Mutton tasted good that night around our camp-fire; and Romer + ate a generous portion. A ranger from the station near there + visited us, and two young ranchers, who told us that the + influenza epidemic was waning. This was news to be thankful for. + Moreover, I hired the two ranchers to hurry us by auto to + Flagstaff on the morrow. So right there at Mormon Lake ended our + privations.</p> + + <p>Under one of the huge pines I scraped up a pile of needles, + made Romer's bed in it, heated a blanket and wrapped him in it. + Almost he was asleep when he said: "Some ride, + Dad—Good-night."</p> + + <p>Later, beside him, I lay awake a while, watching the sparks + fly, and the shadows flit, feeling the cold wind on my face, + listening to the crackle of the fire and the roar of the + gale.</p> + + <center> + IV + </center> + + <p>Eventually R.C. and Romer and I arrived in Los Angeles to find + all well with our people, which fact was indeed something to + rejoice over. Hardly had this 1918 trip ended before I began to + plan for that of 1919. But I did not realize how much in earnest + I was until I received word that both Lee Doyle in Flagstaff and + Nielsen in San Pedro were very ill with influenza. Lee all but + died, and Nielsen, afterward, told me he would rather die than + have the "flu" again. To my great relief, however, they + recovered.</p> + + <p>From that time then it pleased me to begin to plan for my 1919 + hunting trip. I can never do anything reasonably. I always overdo + everything. But what happiness I derive from anticipation! When I + am not working I live in dreams, partly of the past, but mostly + of the future. A man should live only in the present.</p> + + <p>I gave Lee instructions to go about in his own way buying + teams, saddle horses, and wagons. For Christmas I sent him a .35 + Remington rifle. Mr. Haught got instructions to add some new dogs + to his pack. I sent Edd also a .35 Remington, and made Nielsen + presents of two guns. In January Nielsen and I went to Picacho, + on the lower Colorado river, and then north to Death Valley. So + that I kept in touch with these men and did not allow their + enthusiasm to wane. For myself and R.C. I had the fun of ordering + tents and woolen blankets, and everything that we did not have on + our 1918 trip. But owing to the war it was difficult to obtain + goods of any description. To make sure of getting a .30 Gov't + Winchester I ordered from four different firms, including the + Winchester Co. None of them had such a rifle in stock, but all + would try to find one. The upshot of this deal was that, when + after months I despaired of getting any, they all sent me a rifle + at the same time. So I found myself with four, all the same + caliber of course, but of different style and finish. When I saw + them and thought of the Haughts I had to laugh. One was + beautifully engraved, and inlaid with gold—the most + elaborate .30 Gov't the Winchester people had ever built. Another + was a walnut-stocked, shot-gun butted, fancy checkered take-down. + This one I presented to R.C. The third was a plain ordinary rifle + with solid frame. And the last was a carbine model, which I gave + to Nielsen.</p> + + <p>During the summer at Avalon I used to take the solid frame + rifle, and climb the hills to practice on targets. At Clemente + Island I used to shoot at the ravens. I had a grudge against + ravens there for picking the eyes out of newly born lambs. At + five hundred yards a raven was in danger from me. I could make + one jump at even a thousand yards. These .30 Gov't 1906 rifles + with 150-grain bullet are the most wonderful shooting arms I ever + tried. I became expert at inanimate targets.</p> + + <p>From time to time I heard encouraging news from Lee about + horses. Edd wrote me about lion tracks in the snow, and lynx up + cedar trees, and gobblers four feet high, and that there was sure + to be a good crop of acorns, and therefore some bears. He told me + about a big grizzly cow-killer being chased and shot in Chevelon + Canyon. News about hounds, however, was slow in coming. Dogs were + difficult to find. At length Haught wrote me that he had secured + two; and in this same letter he said the boys were cutting trails + down under the rim.</p> + + <p>Everything pertaining to my cherished plans appeared to be + turning out well. But during this time I spent five months at + hard work and intense emotional strain, writing the longest novel + I ever attempted; and I over-taxed my endurance. By the middle of + June, when I finished, I was tired out. That would not have + mattered if I had not hurt my back in an eleven-hour fight with a + giant broadbill swordfish. This strain kept me from getting in my + usual physical trim. I could not climb the hills, or exert + myself. Swimming hurt me more than anything. So I had to be + careful and wait until my back slowly got better. By September it + had improved, but not enough to make me feel any thrills over + horseback riding. It seemed to me that I would be compelled to go + ahead and actually work the pain out of my back, an ordeal + through which I had passed before, and surely dreaded.</p> + + <p>During the summer I had purchased a famous chestnut sorrel + horse named Don Carlos. He was much in demand among the + motion-picture companies doing western plays; and was really too + fine and splendid a horse to be put to the risks common to the + movies. I saw him first at Palm Springs, down in southern + California, where my book <i>Desert Gold</i> was being made into + a motion-picture. Don would not have failed to strike any one as + being a wonderful horse. He was tremendously high and rangy and + powerful in build, yet graceful withal, a sleek, shiny chestnut + red in color, with fine legs, broad chest, and a magnificent + head. I rode him only once before I bought him, and that was + before I hurt my back. His stride was what one would expect from + sight of him; his trot seemed to tear me to pieces; his spirit + was such that he wanted to prance all the time. But in spite of + his spirit he was a pet. And how he could run! Nielsen took Don + to Flagstaff by express. And when Nielsen wrote me he said all of + Flagstaff came down to the station to see the famous Don Carlos. + The car in which he had traveled was backed alongside a platform. + Don refused to step on the boards they placed from platform to + car. He did not trust them. Don's intelligence had been sharpened + by his experience with the movies. Nielsen tried to lead, to + coax, and to drive Don to step on the board walk. Don would not + go. But suddenly he snorted, and jumped the space clear, to + plunge and pound down upon the platform, scattering the crowd + like quail.</p> + + <p>The day before my departure from Los Angeles was almost as + terrible an ordeal as I anticipated would be my first day's ride + on Don Carlos. And this ordeal consisted of listening to Romer's + passionate appeals and importunities to let him go on the hunt. + My only defence was that he must not be taken from school. School + forsooth! He was way ahead of his class. If he got behind he + could make it up. I talked and argued. Once he lost his temper, a + rare thing with him, and said he would run away from school, ride + on a freight train to Flagstaff, steal a horse and track me to my + camp. I could not say very much in reply to this threat, because + I remembered that I had made worse to my father, and carried it + out. I had to talk sense to Romer. Often we had spoken of a + wonderful hunt in Africa some day, when he was old enough; and I + happened upon a good argument. I said: "You'll miss a year out of + school then. It won't be so very long. Don't you think you ought + to stay in school faithfully now?" So in the end I got away from + him, victorious, though not wholly happy. The truth was I wanted + him to go.</p> + + <p>My Jap cook Takahashi met me in Flagstaff. He was a very + short, very broad, very muscular little fellow with a brown, + strong face, more pleasant than usually seen in Orientals. + Secretly I had made sure that in Takahashi I had discovered a + treasure, but I was careful to conceal this conviction from R.C., + the Doyles, and Nielsen. They were glad to see him with us, but + they manifestly did not expect wonders.</p> + + <p>How brief the span of a year! Here I was in Flagstaff again + outfitting for another hunt. It seemed incredible. It revived + that old haunting thought about the shortness of life. But in + spite of that or perhaps more because of it the pleasure was all + the keener. In truth the only drawback to this start was the + absence of Romer, and my poor physical condition. R.C. appeared + to be in fine fettle.</p> + + <p>But I was not well. In the mornings I could scarcely arise, + and when I did so I could hardly straighten myself. More than + once I grew doubtful of my strength to undertake such a hard + trip. This doubt I fought fiercely, for I knew that the right + thing for me to do was to go—to stand the pain and + hardship—to toil along until my old strength and elasticity + returned. What an opportunity to try out my favorite theory! For + I believed that labor and pain were good for mankind—that + strenuous life in the open would cure any bodily ill.</p> + + <p>On September fourteenth Edd and George drifted into Flagstaff + to join us, and their report of game and water and grass and + acorns was so favorable that I would have gone if I had been + unable to ride on anything but a wagon.</p> + + <p>We got away on September fifteenth at two-thirty o'clock with + such an outfit as I had never had in all my many trips put + together. We had a string of saddle horses besides those the men + rode. They were surely a spirited bunch; and that first day it + was indeed a job to keep them with us. Out of sheer defiance with + myself I started on Don Carlos. He was no trouble, except that it + took all my strength to hold him in. He tossed his head, champed + his bit, and pranced sideways along the streets of Flagstaff, + manifestly to show off his brand new black Mexican saddle, with + silver trappings and tapaderos. I was sure that he did not do + that to show me off. But Don liked to dance and prance along + before a crowd, a habit that he had acquired with the motion + pictures.</p> + + <p>Lee and Nielsen and George had their difficulties driving the + free horses. Takahashi rode a little buckskin Navajo mustang. An + evidence of how extremely short the Jap's legs were made itself + plain in the fact that stirrups could not be fixed so he could + reach them with his feet. When he used any support at all he + stuck his feet through the straps above the stirrups. How funny + his squat, broad figure looked in a saddle! Evidently he was not + accustomed to horses. When I saw the mustang roll the white of + his eyes and glance back at Takahashi then I knew something would + happen sooner or later.</p> + + <p>Nineteen miles on Don Carlos reduced me to a miserable aching + specimen of manhood. But what made me endure and go on and finish + to camp was the strange fact that the longer I rode the less my + back pained. Other parts of my anatomy, however, grew sorer as we + progressed. Don Carlos pleased me immensely, only I feared he was + too much horse for me. A Mormon friend of mine, an Indian trader, + looked Don over in Flagstaff, and pronounced him: "Shore one + grand hoss!" This man had broken many wild horses, and his + compliment pleased me. All the same the nineteen miles on Don + hurt my vanity almost as much as my body.</p> + + <p>We camped in a cedar pasture off the main road. This road was + a new one for us to take to our hunting grounds. I was too bunged + up to help Nielsen pitch our tent. In fact when I sat down I was + anchored. Still I could use my eyes, and that made life worth + living. Sunset was a gorgeous spectacle. The San Francisco Peaks + were shrouded in purple storm-clouds, and the west was all gold + and silver, with low clouds rimmed in red. This sunset ended in a + great flare of dull magenta with a background of purple.</p> + + <p>That evening was the try-out of our new chuck-box and chef. I + had supplied the men with their own outfit and supplies, to do + with as they liked, an arrangement I found to be most + satisfactory. Takahashi was to take care of R.C. and me. In less + than half an hour from the time the Jap lighted a fire he served + the best supper I ever had in camp anywhere. R.C. lauded him to + the skies. And I began to think I could unburden myself of my + conviction.</p> + + <p>I did not awaken to the old zest and thrill of the open. + Something was wrong with me. The sunset, the camp-fire, the dark + clear night with its trains of stars, the distant yelp of + coyotes—these seemed less to me than what I had hoped for. + My feelings were locked round my discomfort and pain.</p> + + <p>About noon next day we rode out of the cedars into the open + desert—a rolling, level land covered with fine grass, and + yellow daisies, Indian paint brush, and a golden flowering weed. + This luxuriance attested to the copious and recent rains. They + had been a boon to dry Arizona. No sage showed or greasewood, and + very few rocks. The sun burned hot. I gazed out at the desert, + and the cloud pageant in the sky, trying hard to forget myself, + and to see what I knew was there for me. Rolling columnar white + and cream clouds, majestic and beautiful, formed storms off on + the horizon. Sunset on the open desert that afternoon was + singularly characteristic of Arizona—purple and gold and + red, with long lanes of blue between the colored cloud banks.</p> + + <p>We made camp at Meteor Crater, one of the many wonders of this + wonderland. It was a huge hole in the earth over five hundred + feet deep, said to have been made by a meteor burying itself + there. Seen from the outside the slope was gradual up to the + edges, which were scalloped and irregular; on the inside the + walls were precipitous. Our camp was on the windy desert, a long + sweeping range of grass, sloping down, dotted with cattle, with + buttes and mountains in the distance. Most of my sensations of + the day partook of the nature of woe.</p> + + <p>September seventeenth bade fair to be my worst day—at + least I did not see how any other could ever be so bad. Glaring + hot sun—reflected heat from I the bare road—dust and + sand and wind! Particularly hard on me were what the Arizonians + called dust-devils, whirlwinds of sand. On and off I walked a + good many miles, the latter of which I hobbled. Don Carlos did + not know what to make of this. He eyed me, and nosed me, and + tossed his head as if to say I was a strange rider for him. Like + my mustang, Night, he would not stand to be mounted. When I + touched the stirrup that was a signal to go. He had been trained + to it. As he was nearly seventeen hands high, and as I could not + get my foot in the stirrup from level ground, to mount him in my + condition seemed little less than terrible. I always held back + out of sight when I attempted this. Many times I failed. Once I + fell flat and lay a moment in the dust. Don Carlos looked down + upon me in a way I imagined was sympathetic. At least he bent his + noble head and smelled at me. I scrambled to my feet, led him + round into a low place, and drawing a deep breath, and nerving + myself to endure the pain like a stab, I got into the saddle + again.</p> + + <p>Two things sustained me in this ordeal, which was the crudest + horseback ride I ever had—first, the conviction that I + could cure my ills by enduring the agony of violent action, of + hot sun, of hard bed; and secondly, the knowledge that after it + was all over the remembrance of hardship and achievement would be + singularly sweet. So it had been in the case of the five days on + the old Crook road in 1918, when extreme worry and tremendous + exertion had made the hours hideous. So it had been with other + arduous and poignant experiences. A poet said that the crown of + sorrow was in remembering happier times: I believed that there + was a great deal of happiness in remembering times of stress, of + despair, of extreme and hazardous effort. Anyway, without these + two feelings in my mind I would have given up riding Don Carlos + that day, and have abandoned the trip.</p> + + <p>We covered twenty-two miles by sundown, a rather poor day's + showing; and camped on the bare flat desert, using water and wood + we had packed with us. The last thing I remembered, as my eyes + closed heavily, was what a blessing it was to rest and to + sleep.</p> + + <p>Next day we sheered off to the southward, heading toward + Chevelon Butte, a black cedared mountain, rising lone out of the + desert, thirty miles away. We crossed two streams bank full of + water, a circumstance I never before saw in Arizona. Everywhere + too the grass was high. We climbed gradually all day, everybody + sunburned and weary, the horses settling down to save themselves; + and we camped high up on the desert plateau, six thousand feet + above sea level, where it was windy, cool, and fragrant with sage + and cedar. Except the first few, the hours of this day each + marked a little less torture for me; but at that I fell off Don + Carlos when we halted. And I was not able to do my share of the + camp work. R.C. was not as spry and chipper as I had seen him, a + fact from which I gathered infinite consolation. Misery loves + company.</p> + + <p>A storm threatened. All the west was purple under on-coming + purple clouds. At sight of this something strange and subtle, yet + familiar, revived in me. It made me feel a little more like the + self I thought I knew. So I watched the lightning flare and + string along the horizon. Some time in the night thunder awakened + me. The imminence of a severe storm forced us to roll out and + look after the tent. What a pitch black night! Down through the + murky, weird blackness shot a wonderful zigzag rope of lightning, + blue-white, dazzling; and it disintegrated, leaving segments of + fire in the air. All this showed in a swift flash—then we + were absolutely blind. I could not see for several moments. It + rained a little. Only the edge of the storm touched us. Thunder + rolled and boomed along the battlements, deep and rumbling and + detonating.</p> + + <p>No dust or heat next morning! The desert floor appeared clean + and damp, with fresh gray sage and shining bunches of cedar. We + climbed into the high cedars, and then to the piñons, and + then to the junipers and pines. Climbing so out of desert to + forestland was a gradual and accumulating joy to me. What + contrast in vegetation, in air, in color! Still the forest + consisted of small trees. Not until next day did we climb farther + to the deepening, darkening forest, and at last to the silver + spruce. That camp, the fifth night out, was beside a lake of + surface water, where we had our first big camp-fire.</p> + + <p>September twenty-first and ten miles from Beaver Dam Canyon, + where a year before I had planned to meet Haught this day and + date at noon! I could make that appointment, saddle-sore and + weary as I was, but I doubted we could get the wagons there. The + forest ground was soft. All the little swales were full of water. + How pleasant, how welcome, how beautiful and lonely the wild + forestland! We made advance slowly. It was afternoon by the time + we reached the rim road, and four o'clock when we halted at the + exact spot where we had left our wagon the year before.</p> + + <p>Lee determined to drive the wagons down over the rocky benches + into Beaver Dam Canyon; and to that end he and the men began to + cut pines, drag logs, and roll stones.</p> + + <p>R.C. and I rode down through the forest, crossing half a dozen + swift little streams of amber water, where a year before all had + been dry as tinder. We found Haught's camp in a grove of + yellowing aspens. Haught was there to meet us. He had not changed + any more than the rugged pine tree under which a year past we had + made our agreement. He wore the same blue shirt and the old black + sombrero.</p> + + <p>"Hello Haught," was my greeting, as I dismounted and pulled + out my watch. "I'm four hours and a quarter late. Sorry. I could + have made it, but didn't want to leave the wagons."</p> + + <p>"Wal, wal, I shore am glad to see you," he replied, with a + keen flash in his hazel eyes and a smile on his craggy face. "I + reckoned you'd make it. How are you? Look sort of fagged."</p> + + <p>"Just about all in, Haught," I replied, as we shook hands.</p> + + <p>Then Copple appeared, swaggering out of the aspens. He was the + man I met in Payson and who so kindly had made me take his rifle. + I had engaged him also for this hunt. A brawny man he was, with + powerful shoulders, swarthy-skinned, and dark-eyed, looking + indeed the Indian blood he claimed.</p> + + <p>"Wouldn't have recognized you anywhere's else," he said.</p> + + <p>These keen-eyed outdoor men at a glance saw the havoc work and + pain had played with me. They were solicitous, and when I + explained my condition they made light of that, and showed relief + that I was not ill. "Saw wood an' rustle around," said Haught. + And Copple said: "He needs venison an' bear meat."</p> + + <p>They rode back with us up to the wagons. Copple had been a + freighter. He picked out a way to drive down into the canyon. So + rough and steep it was that I did not believe driving down would + be possible. But with axes and pick and shovel, and a heaving of + rocks, they worked a road that Lee drove down. Some places were + almost straight down. But the ground was soft, hoofs and wheels + sank deeply, and though one wagon lurched almost over, and the + heavily laden chuck-wagon almost hurdled the team, Lee made the + bad places without accident. Two hours after our arrival, such + was the labor of many strong hands, we reached our old camp + ground. One thing was certain, however, and that was we would + never get back up the way we came down.</p> + + <p>Except for a luxuriance of grass and ferns, and two babbling + streams of water, our old camp ground had not changed. I sat down + with mingled emotions. How familiarly beautiful and lonely this + canyon glade! The great pines and spruces looked down upon me + with a benediction. How serene, passionless, strong they seemed! + It was only men who changed in brief time. The long year of worry + and dread and toil and pain had passed. It was nothing. On the + soft, fragrant, pine-scented breeze came a whispering of welcome + from the forestland: "You are here again. Live now—in the + present."</p> + + <p>Takahashi beamed upon me: "More better place to camp," he + said, grinning. Already the Jap had won my admiration and liking. + His ability excited my interest, and I wanted to know more about + him. As to this camp-site being a joy compared to the ones + stretched back along the road he was assuredly right. That night + we did no more than eat and unroll our beds. But next day there + set in the pleasant tasks of unpacking, putting up tents and + flies, cutting spruce for thick, soft beds, and a hundred odd + jobs dear to every camper. Takahashi would not have any one help + him. He dug a wide space for fires, erected a stone windbreak, + and made two ovens out of baked mud, the like of which, and the + cleverness of which I had never seen. He was a whirlwind for + work.</p> + + <p>The matter of firewood always concerned Nielsen and me more + than any one. Nielsen was a Norwegian, raised as a boy to use a + crosscut saw; and as for me I was a connoisseur in camp-fires and + a lover of them. Hence we had brought a crosscut saw—a long + one with two handles. I remembered from the former year a huge + dead pine that had towered bleached and white at the edge of the + glade. It stood there still. The storms and blasts of another + winter had not changed it in the least. It was five feet thick at + the base and solid. Nielsen chopped a notch in it on the lower + side, and then he and Edd began to saw into it on the other. I + saw the first tremor of the lofty top. Then soon it shivered all + the way down, gave forth a loud crack, swayed slowly, and fell + majestically, to strike with a thundering crash. Only the top of + this pine broke in the fall, but there were splinters and knots + and branches enough to fill a wagon. These we carried up to our + camp-fire.</p> + + <p>Then the boys sawed off half a dozen four-foot sections, which + served as fine, solid, flat tables for comfort around camp. The + method of using a crosscut saw was for two men to take a stand + opposite one another, with the log between. The handles of the + saw stood upright. Each man should pull easily and steadily + toward himself, but should not push back nor bear down. It looked + a rhythmic, manly exercise, and not arduous. But what an + illusion! Nielsen and Copple were the only ones that day who + could saw wholly through the thick log without resting. Later + Takahashi turned out to be as good, if not better, than either of + them, but we had that, as well as many other wonderful facts, to + learn about the Jap.</p> + + <p>"Come on," said R.C. to me, invitingly. "You've been talking + about this crosscut saw game. I'll bet you find it harder than + pulling on a swordfish."</p> + + <p>Pride goes before a fall! I knew that in my condition I could + do little with the saw, but I had to try. R.C. was still fresh + when I had to rest. Perhaps no one except myself realized the + weakness of my back, but the truth was a couple of dozen pulls on + that saw almost made me collapse. Wherefore I grew furious with + myself and swore I would do it or die. I sawed till I fell + over—then I rested and went back at it. Half an hour of + this kind of exercise gave me a stab in my left side infinitely + sharper than the pain in my back. Also it made me wringing wet, + hot as fire, and as breathless as if I had run a mile up hill. + That experience determined me to stick to crosscut sawing every + day. Next morning I approached it with enthusiasm, yet with + misgivings. I could not keep my breath. Pain I could and did bear + without letting on. But to have to stop was humiliating. If I + tried to keep up with the sturdy Haught boys, or with the brawny + Copple or the giant Nielsen, soon I would be compelled to keel + over. In the sawing through a four-foot section of log I had to + rest eight times. They all had a great deal of fun out of it, and + I pretended to be good natured, but to me who had always been so + vigorous and active and enduring it was not fun. It was tragic. + But all was not gloom for me. This very afternoon Nielsen, the + giant, showed that a stiff climb out of the canyon, at that eight + thousand feet altitude, completely floored him. Yet I + accomplished that with comparative ease. I could climb, which + seemed proof that I was gaining. A man becomes used to certain + labors and exercises. I thought the crosscut saw a wonderful tool + to train a man, but it must require time. It harked back to + pioneer days when men were men. Nielsen said he had lived among + Mexican boys who sawed logs for nineteen cents apiece and earned + seven dollars a day. Copple said three minutes was good time to + saw a four-foot log in two pieces. So much for physical + condition! As for firewood, for which our crosscut saw was + intended, pitch pine and yellow pine and spruce were all odorous + and inflammable woods, but they did not make good firewood. Dead + aspen was good; dead oak the best. It burned to red hot coals + with little smoke. As for camp-fires, any kind of dry wood + pleased, smoke or no smoke. In fact I loved the smell and color + of wood-smoke, in spite of the fact that it made my eyes + smart.</p> + + <p>By October first, which was the opening day of the hunting + season, I had labored at various exercises until I felt fit to + pack a rifle through the woods. R.C. and I went out alone on + foot. Not by any means was the day auspicious. The sun tried to + show through a steely haze, making only a pale shift of sunshine. + And the air was rather chilly. Enthusiasm, however, knew no + deterrents. We walked a mile down Beaver Dam Canyon, then climbed + the western slope. As long as the sun shone I knew the country + fairly well, or rather my direction. We slipped along through the + silent woods, satisfied with everything. Presently the sun broke + through the clouds, and shone fitfully, making intervals of + shadow, and others of golden-green verdure.</p> + + <p>Along an edge of one of the grassy parks we came across fresh + deer tracks. Several deer had run out of the woods just ahead of + us, evidently having winded us. One track was that of a big buck. + We trailed these tracks across the park, then made a detour in + hopes of heading the deer off, but failed. A huge, dark cloud + scudded out of the west and let down a shower of fine rain. We + kept dry under a spreading spruce. The forest then was gloomy and + cool with only a faint moan of wind and pattering of raindrops to + break the silence. The cloud passed by, the sun shone again, the + forest glittered in its dress of diamonds. There had been but + little frost, so that aspen and maple thickets had not yet taken + on their cloth of gold and blaze of red. Most of the leaves were + still on the trees, making these thickets impossible to see into. + We hunted along the edges of these, and across the wide, open + ridge from canyon to canyon, and saw nothing but old tracks. + Black and white clouds rolled up and brought a squall. We took to + another spruce tent for shelter. After this squall the sky became + obscured by a field of gray cloud through which the sun shone + dimly. This matter worried me. I was aware of my direction then, + but if I lost the sun I would soon be in difficulties.</p> + + <p>Gradually we worked back along the ridge toward camp, and + headed several ravines that ran and widened down into the big + canyon. All at once R.C. held up a warning finger. "Listen!" With + abatement of breath I listened, but heard nothing except the + mournful sough of the pines. "Thought I heard a whistle," he + said. We went on, all eyes and ears.</p> + + <p>R.C. and I flattered ourselves that together we made rather a + good hunting team. We were fairly well versed in woodcraft and + could slip along stealthily. I possessed an Indian sense of + direction that had never yet failed me. To be sure we had much to + learn about deer stalking. But I had never hunted with any man + whose ears were as quick as R.C.'s. A naturally keen hearing, and + many years of still hunting, accounted for this faculty. As for + myself, the one gift of which I was especially proud was my + eyesight. Almost invariably I could see game in the woods before + any one who was with me. This had applied to all my guides except + Indians. And I believed that five summers on the Pacific, + searching the wide expanse of ocean for swordfish fins, had made + my eyes all the keener for the woods. R.C. and I played at a game + in which he tried to hear the movement of some forest denizen + before I saw it. This fun for us dated back to boyhood days.</p> + + <p>Suddenly R.C. stopped short, with his head turning to one + side, and his body stiffening. "I heard that whistle again," he + said. We stood perfectly motionless for a long moment. Then from + far off in the forest I heard a high, clear, melodious, bugling + note. How thrilling, how lonely a sound!</p> + + <p>"It's a bull-elk," I replied. Then we sat down upon a log and + listened. R.C. had heard that whistle in Colorado, but had not + recognized it. Just as the mournful howl of a wolf is the + wildest, most haunting sound of the wilderness, so is the bugle + of the elk the noblest, most melodious and thrilling. With + tingling nerves and strained ears we listened. We heard elk + bugling in different directions, hard to locate. One bull + appeared to be low down, another high up, another working away. + R.C. and I decided to stalk them. The law prohibited the killing + of elk, but that was no reason why we might not trail them, and + have the sport of seeing them in their native haunts. So we stole + softly through the woods, halting now and then to listen, pleased + to note that every whistle we heard appeared to be closer.</p> + + <p>At last, apparently only a deep thicketed ravine separated us + from the ridge upon which the elk were bugling. Here our stalk + began to become really exciting. We did not make any noise + threading that wet thicket, and we ascended the opposite slope + very cautiously. What little wind there was blew from the elk + toward us, so they could not scent us. Once up on the edge of the + ridge we halted to listen. After a long time we heard a far-away + bugle, then another at least half a mile distant. Had we + miscalculated? R.C. was for working down the ridge and I was for + waiting there a few moments. So we sat down again. The forest was + almost silent now. Somewhere a squirrel was barking. The sun + peeped out of the pale clouds, lighted the glades, rimmed the + pines in brightness. I opened my lips to speak to R.C. when I was + rendered mute by a piercing whistle, high-pitched and sweet and + melodiously prolonged. It made my ears tingle and my blood dance. + "Right close," whispered R.C. "Come on." We began to steal + through the forest, keeping behind trees and thickets, peeping + out, and making no more sound than shadows. The ground was damp, + facilitating our noiseless stalk. In this way we became separated + by about thirty steps, but we walked on and halted in unison. + Passing through a thicket of little pines we came into an open + forest full of glades. Keenly I peered everywhere, as I slipped + from tree to tree. Finally we stooped along for a space, and + then, at a bugle blast so close that it made me jump, I began to + crawl. My objective point was a fallen pine the trunk of which + appeared high enough to conceal me. R.C. kept working a little + farther to the right. Once he beckoned me, but I kept on. Still I + saw him drop down to crawl. Our stalk was getting toward its + climax. My state was one of quivering intensity of thrill, of + excitement, of pleasure. Reaching my log I peeped over it. I saw + a cow-elk and a yearling calf trotting across a glade about a + hundred yards distant. Wanting R.C. to see them I looked his way, + and pointed. But he was pointing also and vehemently beckoning + for me to join him. I ran on all fours over to where he knelt. He + whispered pantingly: "Grandest sight—ever saw!" I peeped + out.</p> + + <p>In a glade not seventy-five yards away stood a magnificent + bull elk, looking back over his shoulder. His tawny + hind-quarters, then his dark brown, almost black shaggy shoulders + and head, then his enormous spread of antlers, like the top of a + dead cedar—these in turn fascinated my gaze. How graceful, + stately, lordly!</p> + + <p>R.C. stepped out from behind the pine in full view. I crawled + out, took a kneeling position, and drew a bead on the elk. I had + the fun of imagining I could have hit him anywhere. I did not + really want to kill him, yet what was the meaning of the sharp, + hot gush of my blood, the fiery thrill along my nerves, the + feeling of unsatisfied wildness? The bull eyed us for a second, + then laid his forest of antlers back over his shoulders, and with + singularly swift, level stride, sped like a tawny flash into the + green forest.</p> + + <p>R.C. and I began to chatter like boys, and to walk toward the + glade, without any particular object in mind, when my roving eye + caught sight of a moving brown and checkered patch low down on + the ground, vanishing behind a thicket. I called R.C. and ran. I + got to where I could see beyond the thicket. An immense flock of + turkeys! I yelled. As I tried to get a bead on a running turkey + R.C. joined me. "Chase 'em!" he yelled. So we dashed through the + forest with the turkeys running ahead of us. Never did they come + out clear in the open. I halted to shoot, but just as I was about + to press the trigger, my moving target vanished. This happened + again. No use to shoot at random! I had a third fleeting chance, + but absolutely could not grasp it. Then the big flock of turkeys + eluded us in an impenetrable, brushy ravine.</p> + + <p>"By George!" exclaimed R.C. "Can you beat that? They run like + streaks. I couldn't aim. These wild turkeys are great."</p> + + <p>I echoed his sentiments. We prowled around for an hour trying + to locate this flock again, but all in vain. "Well," said R.C. + finally, as he wiped his perspiring face, "it's good to see some + game anyhow.... Where are we?"</p> + + <p>It developed that our whereabouts was a mystery to me. The sun + had become completely obliterated, a fine rain was falling, the + forest had grown wet and dismal. We had gotten turned around. The + matter did not look serious, however, until we had wandered + around for another hour without finding anything familiar. Then + we realized we were lost. This sort of experience had happened to + R.C. and me often; nevertheless we did not relish it, especially + the first day out. As usual on such occasions R.C. argued with me + about direction, and then left the responsibility with me. I + found an open spot, somewhat sheltered on one side from the misty + rain, and there I stationed myself to study trees and sky and + clouds for some clue to help me decide what was north or west. + After a while I had the good fortune to see a momentary + brightening through the clouds. I located the sun, and was + pleased to discover that the instinct of direction I had been + subtly prompted to take, would have helped me as much as the + sun.</p> + + <p>We faced east and walked fast, and I took note of trees ahead + so that we should not get off a straight line. At last we came to + a deep canyon. In the gray misty rain I could not be sure I + recognized it. "Well, R.C.," I said, "this may be our canyon, and + it may not. But to make sure we'll follow it up to the rim. Then + we can locate camp." R.C. replied with weary disdain. "All right, + my redskin brother, lead me to camp. As Loren says, I'm starved + to death." Loren is my three-year-old boy, who bids fair to be + like his brother Romer. He has an enormous appetite and before + meal times he complains bitterly: "I'm starv-ved to death!" How + strange to remember him while I was lost in the forest!</p> + + <p>When we had descended into the canyon rain was falling more + heavily. We were in for it. But I determined we would not be kept + out all night. So I struck forward with long stride.</p> + + <p>In half an hour we came to where the canyon forked. I + deliberated a moment. Not one familiar landmark could I descry, + from which fact I decided we had better take to the left-hand + fork. Grass and leaves appeared almost as wet as running water. + Soon we were soaked to the skin. After two miles the canyon + narrowed and thickened, so that traveling grew more and more + laborsome. It must have been four miles from its mouth to where + it headed up near the rim. Once out of it we found ourselves on + familiar ground, about five miles from camp. Exhausted and wet + and nearly frozen we reached camp just before dark. If I had + taken the right-hand fork of the canyon, which was really Beaver + Dam Canyon, we would have gotten back to camp in short order. + R.C. said to the boys: "Well, Doc dragged me nine miles out of + our way." Everybody but the Jap enjoyed my discomfiture. + Takahashi said in his imperfect English: "Go get on more better + dry clothes. Soon hot supper. Maybe good yes!"</p> + + <center> + V + </center> + + <p>It rained the following day, making a good excuse to stay in + camp and rest beside the little tent-stove. And the next morning + I started out on foot with Copple. We went down Beaver Dam Canyon + intending to go up on the ridge where R.C. and I had seen the + flock of turkeys.</p> + + <p>I considered Copple an addition to my long list of outdoor + acquaintances in the west, and believed him a worthy partner for + Nielsen. Copple was born near Oak Creek, some twenty miles south + of Flagstaff, and was one-fourth Indian. He had a good education. + His whole life had been in the open, which fact I did not need to + be told. A cowboy when only a boy he had also been sheepherder, + miner, freighter, and everything Arizonian. Eighteen years he had + hunted game and prospected for gold in Mexico. He had been a + sailor and fireman on the Pacific, he had served in the army in + the Philippines. Altogether his had been an adventurous life; and + as Doyle had been a mine of memories for me so would Copple be a + mine of information. Such men have taught me the wonder, the + violence, the truth of the west.</p> + + <p>Copple was inclined to be loquacious—a trait that + ordinarily was rather distasteful to me, but in his case would be + an advantage. On our way down the canyon not only did he give me + an outline of the history of his life, but he talked about how he + had foretold the storm just ended. The fresh diggings of + gophers—little mounds of dirt thrown up—had indicated + the approach of the storm; so had the hooting of owls; likewise + the twittering of snowbirds at that season; also the feeding of + blackbirds near horses. Particularly a wind from the south meant + storm. From that he passed to a discussion of deer. During the + light of the moon deer feed at night; and in the day time they + will lie in a thicket. If a hunter came near the deer would lower + their horns flat and remain motionless, unless almost ridden + over. In the dark of the moon deer feed at early morning, lie + down during the day, and feed again toward sunset, always alert, + trusting to nose more than eyes and ears.</p> + + <p>Copple was so interesting that I must have passed the place + where R.C. and I had come down into the canyon; at any rate I + missed it, and we went on farther. Copple showed me old bear + sign, an old wolf track, and then fresh turkey tracks. The latter + reminded me that we were out hunting. I could carry a deadly + rifle in my hands, yet dream dreams of flower-decked Elysian + fields. We climbed a wooded bench or low step of the canyon + slope, and though Copple and I were side by side I saw two + turkeys before he did. They were running swiftly up hill. I took + a snap shot at the lower one, but missed. My bullet struck low, + upsetting him. Both of them disappeared.</p> + + <p>Then we climbed to the top of the ridge, and in scouting + around along the heavily timbered edges we came to a ravine deep + enough to be classed as a canyon. Here the forest was dark and + still, with sunlight showing down in rays and gleams. While + hunting I always liked to sit down here and there to listen and + watch. Copple liked this too. So we sat down. Opposite us the + rocky edge of the other slope was about two hundred yards. We + listened to jays and squirrels. I made note of the significant + fact that as soon as we began to hunt Copple became silent.</p> + + <p>Presently my roving eye caught sight of a moving object. It is + movement that always attracts my eye in the woods. I saw a plump, + woolly beast walk out upon the edge of the opposite slope and + stand in the shade.</p> + + <p>"Copple, is that a sheep?" I whispered, pointing. + "Lion—no, big lynx," he replied. I aimed and shot just a + little too swiftly. Judging by the puff of dust my bullet barely + missed the big cat. He leaped fully fifteen feet. Copple fired, + hitting right under his nose as he alighted. That whirled him + back. He bounced like a rubber ball. My second shot went over + him, and Copple's hit between his legs. Then with another + prodigious bound he disappeared in a thicket. "By golly! we + missed him," declared Copple. "But you must have shaved him that + first time. Biggest lynx I ever saw."</p> + + <p>We crossed the canyon and hunted for him, but without success. + Then we climbed an open grassy forest slope, up to a level ridge, + and crossed that to see down into a beautiful valley, with + stately isolated pines, and patches of aspens, and floor of + luxuriant grass. A ravine led down into this long park and the + mouth of it held a thicket of small pines. Just as we got half + way out I saw bobbing black objects above the high grass. I + peered sharply. These objects were turkey heads. I got a shot + before Copple saw them. There was a bouncing, a whirring, a + thumping—and then turkeys appeared to be running every + way.</p> + + <p>Copple fired. "Turkey number one!" he called out. I missed a + big gobbler on the run. Copple shot again. "Turkey number two!" + he called out. I could not see what he had done, but of course I + knew he had done execution. It roused my ire as well as a + desperate ambition. Turkeys were running up hill everywhere. I + aimed at this one, then at that. Again I fired. Another miss! How + that gobbler ran! He might just as well have flown. Every turkey + contrived to get a tree or bush between him and me, just at the + critical instant. In despair I tried to hold on the last one, got + a bead on it through my peep sight, moved it with him as we + moved, and holding tight, I fired. With a great flop and + scattering of bronze feathers he went down. I ran up the slope + and secured him, a fine gobbler of about fifteen pounds + weight.</p> + + <p>Upon my return to Copple I found he had collected his two + turkeys, both shot in the neck in the same place. He said: "If + you hit them in the body you spoil them for cooking. I used to + hit all mine in the head. Let me give you a hunch. Always pick + out a turkey running straight away from you or straight toward + you. Never crossways. You can't hit them running to the + side."</p> + + <p>Then he bluntly complimented me upon my eyesight. That at + least was consolation for my poor shooting. We rested there, and + after a while heard a turkey cluck. Copple had no turkey-caller, + but he clucked anyhow. We heard answers. The flock evidently was + trying to get together again, and some of them were approaching + us. Copple continued to call. Then I appreciated how fascinating + R.C. had found this calling game. Copple got answers from all + around, growing closer. But presently the answers ceased. + "They're on to me," he whispered and did not call again. At that + moment a young gobbler ran swiftly down the slope and stopped to + peer around, his long neck stretching. It was not a very long + shot, and I, scorning to do less than Copple, tried to emulate + him, and aimed at the neck of the gobbler. All I got, however, + was a few feathers. Like a grouse he flew across the opening and + was gone. We lingered there a while, hoping to see or hear more + of the flock, but did neither. Copple tried to teach me how to + tell the age of turkeys from their feet, a lesson I did not think + I would assimilate in one hunting season. He tied their legs + together and hung them over his shoulder, a net weight of about + fifty pounds.</p> + + <p>All the way up that valley we saw elk tracks, and once from + over the ridge I heard a bugle. On our return toward camp we + followed a rather meandering course, over ridge and down dale, + and through grassy parks and stately forests, and along the + slowly coloring maple-aspen thickets. Copple claimed to hear deer + running, but I did not. Many tired footsteps I dragged along + before we finally reached Beaver Dam Canyon. How welcome the + sight of camp! R.C. had ridden miles with Edd, and had seen one + deer that they said was still enjoying his freedom in the woods. + Takahashi hailed sight of the turkeys with: "That fine! That + fine! Nice fat ones!"</p> + + <p>But tired as I was that night I still had enthusiasm enough to + visit Haught's camp, and renew acquaintance with the hounds. + Haught had not been able to secure more than two new hounds, and + these named Rock and Buck were still unknown quantities.</p> + + <p>Old Dan remembered me, and my heart warmed to the old + gladiator. He was a very big, large-boned hound, gray with age + and wrinkled and lame, and bleary-eyed. Dan was too old to be put + on trails, or at least to be made chase bear. He loved a + camp-fire, and would almost sit in the flames. This fact, and the + way he would beg for a morsel to eat, had endeared him to me.</p> + + <p>Old Tom was somewhat smaller and leaner than Dan, yet + resembled him enough to deceive us at times. Tom was gray, too, + and had crinkly ears, and many other honorable battle-scars. Tom + was not quite so friendly as Dan; in fact he had more dignity. + Still neither hound was ever demonstrative except upon sight of + his master. Haught told me that if Dan and Tom saw him shoot at a + deer they would chase it till they dropped; accordingly he never + shot at anything except bear and lion when he had these hounds + with him.</p> + + <p>Sue was the best hound in the pack, as she still had, in spite + of years of service, a good deal of speed and fight left in her. + She was a slim, dark brown hound with fine and very long ears. + Rock, one of the new hounds from Kentucky, was white and black, + and had remarkably large, clear and beautiful eyes, almost human + in expression. I could not account for the fact that I suspected + Rock was a deer chaser. Buck, the other hound from Kentucky, was + no longer young; he had a stump tail; his color was a little + yellow with dark spots, and he had a hang-dog head and + distrustful eye. I made certain that Buck had never had any + friends, for he did not understand kindness. Nor had he ever had + enough to eat. He stayed away from the rest of the pack and + growled fiercely when a pup came near him. I tried to make + friends with him, but found that I would not have an easy + task.</p> + + <p>Kaiser Bill was one of the pups, black in color, a long, lean, + hungry-looking dog, and crazy. He had not grown any in a year, + either in body or intelligence. I remembered how he would yelp + just to hear himself and run any kind of a trail—how he + would be the first to quit and come back. And if any one fired a + gun near him he would run like a scared deer.</p> + + <p>To be fair to Kaiser Bill the other pups were not much better. + Trailer and Big Foot were young still, and about all they could + do was to run and howl.</p> + + <p>If, however, they got off right on a bear trail, and no other + trail crossed it they would stick, and in fact lead the pack + till' the bear got away. Once Big Foot came whimpering into camp + with porcupine quills in his nose. Of all the whipped and funny + pups!</p> + + <p>Bobby was the dog I liked best. He was a curly black + half-shepherd, small in size; and he had a sharp, intelligent + face, with the brightest hazel eyes. His manner of wagging his + tail seemed most comical yet convincing. Bobby wagged only the + nether end and that most emphatically. He would stand up to me, + holding out his forepaws, and beg. What an appealing beggar he + was! Bobby's value to Haught was not inconsiderable. He was the + only dog Haught ever had that would herd the pigs. On a bear hunt + Bobby lost his shepherd ways and his kindly disposition, and + yelped fiercely, and hung on a trail as long as any of the pack. + He had no fear of a bear, for which reason Haught did not like to + run him.</p> + + <p>All told then we had a rather nondescript and poor pack of + hounds; and the fact discouraged me. I wanted to hunt the bad + cinnamons and the grizzly sheep-killers, with which this rim-rock + country was infested. I had nothing against the acorn-eating + brown or black bears. And with this pack of hounds I doubted that + we could hold one of the vicious fighting species. But there was + now nothing to do but try. No one could tell. We might kill a big + grizzly. And the fact that the chances were against us perhaps + made for more determined effort. I regretted, however, that I had + not secured a pack of trained hounds somewhere.</p> + + <p>Frost was late this fall. The acorns had hardly ripened, the + leaves had scarcely colored; and really good bear hunting seemed + weeks off. A storm and then a cold snap would help matters + wonderfully, and for these we hoped. Indeed the weather had not + settled; hardly a day had been free of clouds. But despite + conditions we decided to start in bear hunting every other day, + feeling that at least we could train the pack, and get them and + ourselves in better shape for a favorable time when it + arrived.</p> + + <p>Accordingly next day we sallied forth for Horton Thicket, and + I went down with Edd and George. It was a fine day, sunny and + windy at intervals. The new trail the boys had made was boggy. + From above Horton Thicket looked dark, green, verdant, with + scarcely any touch of autumn colors; from below, once in it, all + seemed a darker green, cool and damp. Water lay in all low + places. The creek roared bankfull of clear water.</p> + + <p>The new trail led up and down over dark red rich earth, + through thickets of jack-pine and maple, and then across long + slopes of manzanita and juniper, mescal and oak. Junipers were + not fruitful this year as they were last, only a few having + clusters of lavender-colored berries. The manzanita brush + appeared exceptionally beautiful with its vivid contrasts of + crimson and green leaves, orange-colored berries, and smooth, + shiny bark of a chocolate red. The mescal consisted of round + patches of cactus with spear-shaped leaves, low on the ground, + with a long dead stalk standing or broken down. This stalk grows + fresh every spring, when it is laden with beautiful yellow + blossoms. The honey from the flowers of mescal and mesquite is + the best to be obtained in this country of innumerable bees.</p> + + <p>Presently the hounds opened up on some kind of a trail and + they worked on it around under the ledges toward the next canyon, + called See Canyon. After a while the country grew so rough that + fast riding was impossible; the thickets tore and clutched at us + until they finally stopped the horses. We got off. Edd climbed to + a ridge-top. "Pack gone way round," he called. "I'll walk. Take + my horse back." I decided to let George take my horse also, and I + hurried to catch up with Edd.</p> + + <p>Following that long-legged Arizonian on foot was almost as + strenuous as keeping him in sight on horseback. I managed it. We + climbed steep slopes and the farther we climbed the thicker grew + the brush. Often we would halt to listen for hounds, at which + welcome intervals I endeavored to catch my breath. We kept the + hounds in hearing, which fact incited us to renewed endeavors. At + length we got into a belt of live-oak and scrub-pine brush, + almost as difficult to penetrate as manzanita, and here we had to + bend and crawl. Bear and deer tracks led everywhere. Small stones + and large stones had been lifted and displaced by bears searching + for grubs. These slopes were dry; we found no water at the heads + of ravines, yet the red earth was rich in bearded, tufted grass, + yellow daisies and purple asters, and a wan blue flower. We + climbed and climbed, until my back began to give me trouble. + "Reckon we—bit off—a big hunk," remarked Edd once, + and I thought he referred to the endless steep and brushy slopes. + By and bye the hounds came back to us one by one, all footsore + and weary. Manifestly the bear had outrun them. Our best prospect + then was to climb on to the rim and strike across the forest to + camp.</p> + + <p>I noticed that tired as I was I had less trouble to keep up + with Edd. His boots wore very slippery on grass and pine-needles, + so that he might have been trying to climb on ice. I had nails in + my boots and they caught hold. Hotter and wetter I grew until I + had a burning sensation all over. My legs and arms ached; the + rifle weighed a ton; my feet seemed to take hold of the ground + and stick. We could not go straight up owing to the nature of + that jumble of broken cliffs and matted scrub forests. For hours + we toiled onward, upward, downward, and then upward. Only through + such experience could I have gained an adequate knowledge of the + roughness and vastness of this rim-rock country.</p> + + <p>At last we arrived at the base of the gray leaning crags, and + there, on a long slide of weathered rock the hounds jumped a + bear. I saw the dust he raised, as he piled into the thicket + below the slide. What a wild clamor from the hounds! We got out + on the rocky slope where we could see and kept sharp eyes roving, + but the bear went straight down hill. Amazing indeed was it the + way the hounds drew away from us. In a few moments they were at + the foot of the slopes, tearing back over the course we had been + so many hours in coming. Then we set out to get on the rim, so as + to follow along it, and keep track of the chase. Edd distanced me + on the rocks. I had to stop often. My breast labored and I could + scarcely breathe. I sweat so freely that my rifle stock was wet. + My hardest battle was in fighting a tendency to utter weariness + and disgust. My old poignant feelings about my physical condition + returned to vex me. As a matter of fact I had already that very + day accomplished a climb not at all easy for the Arizonian, and I + should have been happy. But I had not been used to a lame back. + When I reached the rim I fell there, and lay there a few moments, + until I could get up. Then I followed along after Edd whose yells + to the hounds I heard, and overtook him upon the point of a + promontory. Far below the hounds were baying. "They're chasin' + him all right," declared Edd, grimly. "He's headin' for low + country. I think Sue stopped him once. But the rest of the pack + are behind."</p> + + <p>I had never been on the point of this promontory. Grand indeed + was the panorama. Under me yawned a dark-green, smoky-canyoned, + rippling basin of timber and red rocks leading away to the + mountain ranges of the Four Peaks and Mazatzals. Westward, toward + the yellowing sunset stood out long escarpments for miles, and + long sloping lines of black ridges, leading down to the basin + where there seemed to be a ripple of the earth, a vast upset + region of canyon and ridge, wild and lonely and dark.</p> + + <p>I did not get to see the sunset from that wonderful point, a + matter I regretted. We were far from camp, and Edd was not sure + of a bee-line during daylight, let alone after dark. Deep in the + forest the sunset gold and red burned on grass and leaf. The + aspens took most of the color. Swift-flying wisps of cloud turned + pink, and low along the western horizon of the forest the light + seemed golden and blue.</p> + + <p>I was almost exhausted, and by the time we reached camp, just + at dark, I was wholly exhausted. My voice had sunk to a whisper, + a fact that occasioned R.C. some concern until I could explain. + Undoubtedly this was the hardest day's work I had done since my + lion hunting with Buffalo Jones. It did not surprise me that next + day I had to forget my crosscut saw exercise.</p> + + <p>Late that afternoon the hounds came straggling into camp, lame + and starved. Sue was the last one in, arriving at + supper-time.</p> + + <p>Another day found me still sore, but able to ride, and R.C. + and I went off into the woods in search of any kind of adventure. + This day was cloudy and threatening, with spells of sunshine. We + saw two bull elk, a cow and a calf. The bulls appeared remarkably + agile for so heavy an animal. Neither of these, however, were of + such magnificent proportions as the one R.C. and I had stalked + the first day out. A few minutes later we scared out three more + cows and three yearlings. I dismounted just for fun, and sighted + my rifle at four of them. Next we came to a canyon where beaver + had cut aspen trees. These animals must have chisel-like teeth. + They left chippings somewhat similar to those cut by an axe. + Aspen bark was their winter food. In this particular spot we + could not find a dam or slide. When we rode down into Turkey + Canyon, however, we found a place where beavers had dammed the + brook. Many aspens were fresh cut, one at least two feet thick, + and all the small branches had been cut off and dragged to the + water, where I could find no further trace of them. The grass was + matted down, and on the bare bits of ground showed beaver + tracks.</p><a name="image-0059"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg053a_m.jpg" width="448" height="350" alt= + "Where Bear Cross the Ridge from One Canyon to Another "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0060"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg053b_m.jpg" width="448" height="337" alt= + "Climbing over the Tough Manzanita "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Game appeared to be scarce. Haught had told us that deer, + turkey and bear had all gone to feed on the mast (fallen acorns); + and if we could locate the mast we would find the game. He said + he had once seen a herd of several hundred deer migrating from + one section of country to another. Apparently this was to find + new feeding grounds.</p><a name="image-0061"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg054_m.jpg" width="748" height="448" alt= + "Bear in Sight Across Canyon "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>While we were resting under a spruce I espied a + white-breasted, blue-headed, gray-backed little bird at work on a + pine tree. He walked head first down the bark, pecking here and + there. I saw a moth or a winged insect fly off the tree, and then + another. Then I saw several more fly away. The bird was feeding + on winged insects that lived in the bark. Some of them saw or + heard him coming and escaped, but many of them he caught. He went + about this death-dealing business with a brisk and cheerful + manner. No doubt nature had developed him to help protect the + trees from bugs and worms and beetles.</p> + + <p>Later that day, in an open grassy canyon, we came upon quite a + large bird, near the size of a pigeon, which I thought appeared + to be a species of jay or magpie. This bird had gray and black + colors, a round head, and a stout bill. At first I thought it was + crippled, as it hopped and fluttered about in the grass. I got + down to catch it. Then I discovered it was only tame. I could + approach to within a foot of reaching it. Once it perched upon a + low snag, and peeped at me with little bright dark eyes, very + friendly, as if he liked my company. I sat there within a few + feet of him for quite a while. We resumed our ride. Crossing a + fresh buck track caused us to dismount, and tie our horses. But + that buck was too wary for us. We returned to camp as usual, + empty handed as far as game was concerned.</p> + + <p>I forgot to say anything to Haught or Doyle about the black + and gray bird that had so interested me. Quite a coincidence was + it then to see another such bird and that one right in camp. He + appeared to be as tame as the other. He flew and hopped around + camp in such a friendly manner that I placed a piece of meat in a + conspicuous place for him. Not long was he in finding it. He + alighted on it, and pecked and pulled at a great rate. Doyle + claimed it was a Clark crow, named after one of the Lewis and + Clark expedition. "It's a rare bird," said Doyle. "First one I've + seen in thirty years." As Doyle spent most of his time in the + open this statement seemed rather remarkable.</p> + + <p>We had frost on two mornings, temperature as low as twenty-six + degrees, and then another change indicative of unsettled weather. + It rained, and sleeted, and then snowed, but the ground was too + wet to hold the snow.</p> + + <p>The wilderness began all at once, as if by magic, to take on + autumn colors. Then the forest became an enchanted region of + white aspens, golden-green aspens, purple spruces, dark green + pines, maples a blaze of vermilion, cerise, scarlet, magenta, + rose—and slopes of dull red sumac. These were the beginning + of Indian summer days, the melancholy days, with their color and + silence and beauty and fragrance and mystery.</p> + + <p>Hunting then became quite a dream for me, as if it called back + to me dim mystic days in the woods of some past weird world. One + afternoon Copple, R.C., and I went as far as the east side of + Gentry Canyon and worked down. Copple found fresh deer and turkey + sign. We tied our horses, and slipped back against the wind. R.C. + took one side of a ridge, with Copple and me on the other, and we + worked down toward where we had seen the sign. After half an hour + of slow, stealthy glide through the forest we sat down at the + edge of a park, expecting R.C. to come along soon. The white + aspens were all bare, and oak leaves were rustling down. The wind + lulled a while, then softly roared in the pines. All at once both + of us heard a stick crack, and light steps of a walking deer on + leaves. Copple whispered: "Get ready to shoot." We waited, keen + and tight, expecting to see a deer walk out into the open. But + none came. Leaving our stand we slipped into the woods, careful + not to make the slightest sound. Such careful, slow steps were + certainly not accountable for the rapid beat of my heart. + Something gray moved among the green and yellow leaves. I halted, + and held Copple back. Then not twenty paces away I descried what + I thought was a fawn. It glided toward us without the slightest + sound. Suddenly, half emerging from some maple saplings, it saw + us and seemed stricken to stone. Not ten steps from me! Soft gray + hue, slender graceful neck and body, sleek small head with long + ears, and great dark distended eyes, wilder than any wild eyes I + had ever beheld. I saw it quiver all over. I was quivering too, + but with emotion. Copple whispered: "Yearlin' buck. Shoot!"</p> + + <p>His whisper, low as it was, made the deer leap like a gray + flash. Also it broke the spell for me. "Year old buck!" I + exclaimed, quite loud. "Thought he was a fawn. But I couldn't + have shot——"</p> + + <p>A crash of brush interrupted me. Thump of hoofs, crack of + branches—then a big buck deer bounded onward into the + thicket. I got one snap shot at his fleeting blurred image and + missed him. We ran ahead, but to no avail.</p> + + <p>"Four-point buck," said Copple. "He must have been standin' + behind that brush."</p> + + <p>"Did you see his horns?" I gasped, incredulously.</p> + + <p>"Sure. But he was runnin' some. Let's go down this slope where + he jumped.... Now will you look at that! Here's where he started + after you shot."</p> + + <p>A gentle slope, rather open, led down to the thicket where the + buck had vanished. We measured the first of his downhill jumps, + and it amounted to eighteen of my rather short steps. What a + magnificent leap! It reminded me of the story of Hart-leap + Well.</p> + + <p>As we retraced our steps R.C. met us, reporting that he had + heard the buck running, but could not see him. We scouted around + together for an hour, then R.C. and Copple started off on a wide + detour, leaving me at a stand in the hope they might drive some + turkeys my way. I sat on a log until almost sunset. All the pine + tips turned gold and patches of gold brightened the ground. Jays + were squalling, gray squirrels were barking, red squirrels were + chattering, snowbirds were twittering, pine cones were dropping, + leaves were rustling. But there were no turkeys, and I did not + miss them. R.C. and Copple returned to tell me there were signs + of turkeys and deer all over the ridge. "We'll ride over here + early to-morrow," said Copple, "an' I'll bet my gun we pack some + meat to camp."</p> + + <p>But the unsettled weather claimed the next day and the next, + giving us spells of rain and sleet, and periods of sunshine + deceptive in their promise. Camp, however, with our big + camp-fire, and little tent-stoves, and Takahashi, would have been + delightful in almost any weather. Takahashi was insulted, the + boys told me, because I said he was born to be a cook. It seemed + the Jap looked down upon this culinary job. "Cook—that + woman joob!" he said, contemptuously.</p> + + <p>As I became better acquainted with Takahashi I learned to + think more of the Japanese. I studied Takahashi very earnestly + and I grew to like him. The Orientals are mystics and hard to + understand. But any one could see that here was a Japanese who + was a real man. I never saw him idle. He resented being told what + to do, and after my first offense in this regard I never gave him + another order. He was a wonderful cook. It pleased his vanity to + see how good an appetite I always had. When I would hail him: + "George, what you got to eat?" he would grin and reply: "Aw, + turkee!" Then I would let out a yell, for I never in my life + tasted anything so good as the roast wild turkey Takahashi served + us. Or he would say: "Pan-cakes—apple dumplings—rice + puddings." No one but the Japs know how to cook rice. I asked him + how he cooked rice over an open fire and he said: "I know how + hot—when done." Takahashi must have possessed an uncanny + knowledge of the effects of heat. How swift, clean, efficient and + saving he was! He never wasted anything. In these days of + American prodigality a frugal cook like Takahashi was a + revelation. Seldom are the real producers of food ever wasters. + Takahashi's ambition was to be a rancher in California. I learned + many things about him. In summer he went to the Imperial Valley + where he picked and packed cantaloupes. He could stand the + intense heat. He was an expert. He commanded the highest wage. + Then he was a raisin-picker, which for him was another art. He + had accumulated a little fortune and knew how to save his money. + He would have been a millionaire in Japan, but he intended to + live in the United States.</p> + + <p>Takahashi had that best of traits—generosity. Whenever + he made pie or cake or doughnuts he always saved his share for me + to have for my lunch next day. No use to try to break him of this + kindly habit! He was keen too, and held in particular disfavor + any one who picked out the best portions of turkey or meat. "No + like that," he would say; and I heartily agreed with him. Life in + the open brought out the little miserable traits of human nature, + of which no one was absolutely free.</p> + + <p>I admired Takahashi's cooking, I admired the enormous pile of + firewood he always had chopped, I admired his generosity; but + most of all I liked his cheerfulness and good humor. He grew to + be a joy to me. We had some pop corn which we sometimes popped + over the camp-fire. He was fond of it and he said: "You eat all + time—much pop corn—just so long you keep mouth going + all same like horse—you happy." We were troubled a good + deal by skunks. Now some skunks were not bad neighbors, but + others were disgusting and dangerous. The hog-nosed skunk, + according to westerners, very often had hydrophobia and would + bite a sleeper. I knew of several men dying of rabies from this + bite. Copple said he had been awakened twice at night by skunks + biting the noses of his companions in camp. Copple had to choke + the skunks off. One of these men died. We were really afraid of + them. Doyle said one had visited him in his tent and he had been + forced to cover his head until he nearly smothered. Now Takahashi + slept in the tent with the store of supplies. One night a skunk + awakened him. In reporting this to me the Jap said: "See skunk + all black and white at tent door. I flash light. Skunk no 'fraid. + He no run. He act funny—then just walk off."</p> + + <p>After that experience Takahashi set a box-trap for skunks. One + morning he said with a huge grin: "I catch skunk. Want you take + picture for me send my wife Sadayo."</p> + + <p>So I got my camera, and being careful to take a safe position, + as did all the boys, I told Takahashi I was ready to photograph + him and his skunk. He got a pole that was too short to suit me, + and he lifted up the box-trap. A furry white and black cat + appeared, with remarkably bushy tail. What a beautiful little + animal to bear such opprobrium! "All same like cat," said + Takahashi. "Kittee—kittee." It appeared that kitty was not + in the least afraid. On the contrary she surveyed the formidable + Jap with his pole, and her other enemies in a calm, dignified + manner. Then she turned away. Here I tried to photograph her and + Takahashi together. When she started off the Jap followed and + poked her with the pole. "Take 'nother picture." But kitty + suddenly whirled, with fur and tail erect, a most surprising and + brave and assured front, then ran at Takahashi. I yelled: "Run + George!" Pell-mell everybody fled from that beautiful little + beast. We were arrant cowards. But Takahashi grasped up another + and longer pole, and charged back at kitty. This time he chased + her out of camp. When he returned his face was a study: "Nashty + thing! She make awful stink! She no 'fraid a tall. Next time I + kill her sure!"</p> + + <p>The head of Gentry Canyon was about five miles from camp, and + we reached it the following morning while the frost was still + white and sparkling. We tied our horses. Copple said: "This is a + deer day. I'll show you a buck sure. Let's stick together an' + walk easy."</p> + + <p>So we made sure to work against the wind, which, however, was + so light as almost to be imperceptible, and stole along the dark + ravine, taking half a dozen steps or so at a time. How still the + forest! When it was like this I always felt as if I had + discovered something new. The big trees loomed stately and calm, + stretching a rugged network of branches over us. Fortunately no + saucy squirrels or squalling jays appeared to be abroad to warn + game of our approach. Not only a tang, but a thrill, seemed to + come pervasively on the cool air. All the colors of autumn were + at their height, and gorgeous plots of maple thicket and sumac + burned against the brown and green. We slipped along, each of us + strung to be the first to hear or see some living creature of the + wild. R.C., as might have been expected, halted us with a softly + whispered: "Listen." But neither Copple nor I heard what R.C. + heard, and presently we moved on as before. Presently again R.C. + made us pause, with a like result. Somehow the forest seemed + unusually wild. It provoked a tingling expectation. The + pine-covered slope ahead of us, the thicketed ridge to our left, + the dark, widening ravine to our right, all seemed to harbor + listening, watching, soft-footed denizens of the wild. At length + we reached a level bench, beautifully forested, where the ridge + ran down in points to where the junction of several ravines + formed the head of Gentry Canyon.</p> + + <p>How stealthily we stole on! Here Copple said was a place for + deer to graze. But the grass plots, golden with sunlight and + white with frost and black-barred by shadows of pines, showed no + game.</p> + + <p>Copple sat down on a log, and I took a seat beside him to the + left. R.C. stood just to my left. As I laid my rifle over my + knees and opened my lips to whisper I was suddenly struck mute. I + saw R.C. stiffen, then crouch a little. He leaned + forward—his eyes had the look of a falcon. Then I + distinctly heard the soft crack of hoofs on stone and breaking of + tiny twigs. Quick as I whirled my head I still caught out of the + tail of my eye the jerk of R.C. as he threw up his rifle. I + looked—I strained my eyes—I flashed them along the + rim of the ravine where R.C. had been gazing. A gray form seemed + to move into the field of my vision. That instant it leaped, and + R.C.'s rifle shocked me with its bursting crack. I seemed + stunned, so near was the report. But I saw the gray form pitch + headlong and I heard a solid thump.</p> + + <p>"Buck, an' he's your meat!" called Copple, low and sharp. + "Look for another one."</p> + + <p>No other deer appeared. R.C. ran toward the spot where the + gray form had plunged in a heap, and Copple and I followed. It + was far enough to make me pant for breath. We found R.C. beside a + fine three-point buck that had been shot square in the back of + the head between and below the roots of its antlers.</p> + + <p>"Never knew what struck him!" exclaimed Copple, and he laid + hold of the deer and hauled it out of the edge of the thicket. + "Fine an' fat. Venison for camp, boys. One of you go after the + horses an' the other help me hang him up."</p> + + <center> + VI + </center> + + <p>I had been riding eastward of Beaver Dam Canyon with Haught, + and we had parted up on the ridge, he to go down a ravine leading + to his camp, and I to linger a while longer up there in the + Indian-summer woods, so full of gold and silence and fragrance on + that October afternoon.</p> + + <p>The trail gradually drew me onward and downward, and at length + I came out into a narrow open park lined by spruce trees. + Suddenly Don Carlos shot up his ears. I had not ridden him for + days and he appeared more than usually spirited. He saw or heard + something. I held him in, and after a moment I dismounted and + drew my rifle. A crashing in brush somewhere near at hand excited + me. Peering all around I tried to locate cause for the sound. + Again my ear caught a violent swishing of brush accompanied by a + snapping of twigs. This time I cocked my rifle. Don Carlos + snorted. After another circling swift gaze it dawned upon me that + the sound came from overhead.</p> + + <p>I looked into this tree and that, suddenly to have my gaze + arrested by a threshing commotion in the very top of a lofty + spruce. I saw a dark form moving against a background of blue + sky. Instantly I thought it must be a lynx and was about to raise + my rifle when a voice as from the very clouds utterly astounded + me. I gasped in my astonishment. Was I dreaming? But violent + threshings and whacks from the tree-top absolutely assured me + that I was neither dreaming nor out of my head. "I get + you—whee!" shouted the voice. There was a man up in the + swaying top of that spruce and he was no other than Takahashi. + For a moment I could not find my voice. Then I shouted:</p> + + <p>"Hey up there, George! What in the world are you doing? I came + near shooting you."</p> + + <p>"Aw hullo!—I come down now," replied Takahashi.</p> + + <p>I had seen both lynx and lion climb down out of a tree, but + nothing except a squirrel could ever have beaten Takahashi. The + spruce was fully one hundred and fifty feet high; and unless I + made a great mistake the Jap descended in two minutes. He grinned + from ear to ear.</p> + + <p>"I no see you—no hear," he said. "You take me for big + cat?"</p> + + <p>"Yes, George, and I might have shot you. What were you doing + up there?"</p> + + <p>Takahashi brushed the needles and bark from his clothes. "I go + out with little gun you give me. I hunt, no see squirrel. Go out + no gun—see squirrel. I chase him up tree—I climb + high—awful high. No good. Squirrel he too quick. He run + right over me—get away."</p> + + <p>Takahashi laughed with me. I believed he was laughing at what + he considered the surprising agility of the squirrel, while I was + laughing at him. Here was another manifestation of the Jap's + simplicity and capacity. If all Japanese were like Takahashi they + were a wonderful people. Men are men because they do things. The + Persians were trained to sweat freely at least once every day of + their lives. It seemed to me that if a man did not sweat every + day, which was to say—labor hard—he very surely was + degenerating physically. I could learn a great deal from George + Takahashi. Right there I told him that my father had been a + famous squirrel hunter in his day. He had such remarkable + eyesight that he could espy the ear of a squirrel projecting + above the highest limb of a tall white oak. And he was such a + splendid shot that he had often "barked" squirrels, as was a + noted practice of the old pioneer. I had to explain to Takahashi + that this practice consisted of shooting a bullet to hit the bark + right under the squirrel, and the concussion would so stun it + that it would fall as if dead.</p> + + <p>"Aw my goodnish—your daddy more better shot than you!" + ejaculated Takahashi.</p> + + <p>"Yes indeed he was," I replied, reflectively, as in a flash + the long-past boyhood days recurred in memory. Hunting + days—playing days of boyhood were the best of life. It + seemed to me that one of the few reasons I still had for clinging + to hunting was this keen, thrilling hark back to early days. + Books first—then guns—then fishing poles—so ran + the list of material possessions dear to my heart as a lad.</p> + + <p>That night was moonlight, cold, starry, with a silver sheen on + the spectral spruces. During the night there came a change; it + rained—first a drizzle, then a heavy downpour, and at + five-thirty a roar of hail on the tent. This music did not last + long. At seven o'clock the thermometer registered thirty-four + degrees, but there was no frost. The morning was somewhat cloudy + or foggy, with promise of clearing.</p> + + <p>We took the hounds over to See Canyon, and while Edd and + Nielsen went down with them, the rest of us waited above for + developments. Scarcely had they more than time enough to reach + the gorge below when the pack burst into full chorus. Haught led + the way then around the rough rim for better vantage points. I + was mounted on one of the horses Lee had gotten for me—a + fine, spirited animal named Stockings. Probably he had been a + cavalry horse. He was a bay with white feet, well built and + powerful, though not over medium size. One splendid feature about + him was that a saddle appeared to fit him so snugly it never + slipped. And another feature, infinitely the most attractive to + me, was his easy gait. His trot and lope were so comfortable and + swinging, like the motion of a rocking-chair, that I could ride + him all day with pleasure. But when it came to chasing after + hounds and bears along the rim Stockings gave me trouble. Too + eager, too spirited, he would not give me time to choose the + direction. He jumped ditches and gullies, plunged into bad + jumbles or rock, tried to hurdle logs too high for him, carried + me under low branches and through dense thickets, and in general + showed he was exceedingly willing to chase after the pack, but + ignorant of rough forest travel. Owing to this I fell behind, and + got out of hearing of both hounds and men, and eventually found + myself lost somewhere on the west side of See Canyon. To get out + I had to turn my back to the sun, travel west till I came to the + rim above Horton Thicket, and from there return to camp, arriving + rather late in the afternoon.</p> + + <p>All the men had returned, and all the hounds except Buck. I + was rather surprised and disturbed to find the Haughts in a high + state of dudgeon. Edd looked pale and angry. Upon questioning + Nielsen I learned that the hounds had at once struck a fresh bear + track in See Canyon. Nielsen and Edd had not followed far before + they heard a hound yelping in pain. They found Buck caught in a + bear trap. The rest of the hounds came upon a little bear cub, + caught in another trap, and killed it. Nielsen said it had + evidently been a prisoner for some days, being very poor and + emaciated. Fresh tracks of the mother bear were proof that she + had been around trying to save it or minister to it. There were + trappers in See Canyon; and between bear hunters and trappers + manifestly there was no love lost. Edd said they had as much + right to trap as we had to hunt, but that was not the question. + There had been opportunity to tell the Haughts about the big + number four bear traps set in See Canyon. But they did not tell + it. Edd had brought the dead cub back to our camp. It was a + pretty little bear cub, about six months old, with a soft silky + brown coat. No one had to look at it twice to see how it had + suffered.</p> + + <p>This matter of trapping wild animals is singularly hateful to + me. Bad enough is it to stalk deer to shoot them for their meat, + but at least this is a game where the deer have all the + advantage. Bad indeed it may be to chase bear with hounds, but + that is a hard, dangerous method of hunting which gives it some + semblance of fairness. Most of my bear hunts proved to me that I + ran more risks than the bears. To set traps, however, to hide big + iron-springed, spike-toothed traps to catch and clutch wild + animals alive, and hold them till they died or starved or gnawed + off their feet, or until the trapper chose to come with his gun + or club to end the miserable business—what indeed shall I + call that? Cruel—base—cowardly!</p> + + <p>It cannot be defended on moral grounds. But vast moneyed + interests are at stake. One of the greatest of American fortunes + was built upon the brutal, merciless trapping of wild animals for + their furs. And in this fall of 1919 the prices of fox, marten, + beaver, raccoon, skunk, lynx, muskrat, mink, otter, were higher + by double than they had ever been. Trappers were going to reap a + rich harvest. Well, everybody must make a living; but is this + trapping business honest, is it manly? To my knowledge trappers + are hardened. Market fishermen are hardened, too, but the public + eat fish. They do not eat furs. Now in cold climates and seasons + furs are valuable to protect people who must battle with winter + winds and sleet and ice; and against their use by such I daresay + there is no justification for censure. But the vast number of + furs go to deck the persons of vain women. I appreciate the + beautiful contrast of fair skin against a background of sable + fur, or silver fox, or rich, black, velvety seal. But beautiful + women would be just as beautiful, just as warmly clothed in wool + instead of fur. And infinitely better women! Not long ago I met a + young woman in one of New York's fashionable hotels, and I + remarked about the exquisite evening coat of fur she wore. She + said she loved furs. She certainly was handsome, and she appeared + to be refined, cultured, a girl of high class. And I said it was + a pity women did not know or care where furs came from. She + seemed surprised. Then I told her about the iron-jawed, + spike-toothed traps hidden by the springs or on the runways of + game—about the fox or beaver or marten seeking its food, + training its young to fare for themselves—about the sudden + terrible clutch of the trap, and then the frantic fear, the + instinctive fury, the violent struggle—about the foot + gnawed off by the beast that was too fierce to die a + captive—about the hours of agony, the horrible + thirst—the horrible days till death. And I concluded: "All + because women are luxurious and vain!" She shuddered underneath + the beautiful coat of furs, and seemed insulted.</p> + + <p>Upon inquiry I learned from Nielsen that Buck was coming + somewhere back along the trail hopping along on three legs. I + rode on down to my camp, and procuring a bottle of iodine I + walked back in the hope of doing Buck a good turn. During my + absence he had reached camp, and was lying under an aspen, apart + from the other hounds. Buck looked meaner and uglier and more + distrustful than ever. Evidently this injury to his leg was a + trick played upon him by his arch enemy man. I stood beside him, + as he licked the swollen, bloody leg, and talked to him, as + kindly as I knew how. And finally I sat down beside him. The + trap-teeth had caught his right front leg just above the first + joint, and from the position of the teeth marks and the way he + moved his leg I had hopes that the bone was not broken. + Apparently the big teeth had gone through on each side of the + bone. When I tried gently to touch the swollen leg Buck growled + ominously. He would have bitten me. I patted his head with one + hand, and watching my chance, at length with the other I poured + iodine over the open cuts. Then I kept patting him and holding + his head until the iodine had become absorbed. Perhaps it was + only my fancy, but it seemed that the ugly gleam in his + distrustful eyes had become sheepish, as if he was ashamed of + something he did not understand. That look more than ever + determined me to try to find some way to his affections.</p> + + <p>A camp-fire council that night resulted in plans to take a + pack outfit, and ride west along the rim to a place Haught called + Dude Creek. "Reckon we'll shore smoke up some bars along Dude," + said Haught. "Never was in there but I jumped bars. Good deer an' + turkey country, too."</p> + + <p>Next day we rested the hounds, and got things into packing + shape with the intention of starting early the following morning. + But it rained on and off; and the day after that we could not + find Haught's burros, and not until the fourth morning could we + start. It turned out that Buck did not have a broken leg and had + recovered surprisingly from the injury he had received. Aloof as + he held himself it appeared certain he did not want to be left + behind.</p> + + <p>We rode all day along the old Crook road where the year before + we had encountered so many obstacles. I remembered most of the + road, but how strange it seemed to me, and what a proof of my + mental condition on that memorable trip, that I did not remember + all. Usually forest or desert ground I have traveled over I never + forget. This ride, in the middle of October, when all the colors + of autumn vied with the sunlight to make the forest a region of + golden enchantment, was one of particular delight to me. I had + begun to work and wear out the pain in my back. Every night I had + suffered a little less and slept a little better, and every + morning I had less and less of a struggle to get up and + straighten out. Many a groan had I smothered. But now, when I got + warmed up from riding or walking or sawing wood, the pain left me + altogether and I forgot it. I had given myself heroic treatment, + but my reward was in sight. My theory that the outdoor life would + cure almost any ill of body or mind seemed to have earned another + proof added to the long list.</p> + + <p>At sunset we had covered about sixteen miles of rough road, + and had arrived at a point where we were to turn away from the + rim, down into a canyon named Barber Shop Canyon, where we were + to camp.</p><a name="image-0062"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg055a_m.jpg" width="448" height="339" alt= + "Z.G.'s Cinnamon Bear "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0063"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg055b_m.jpg" width="448" height="333" alt= + "R.C.'s Big Brown Bear "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Before turning aside I rode out to the rim for a look down at + the section of country we were to hunt. What a pleasure to + recognize the point from which Romer-boy had seen his first wild + bear! It was a wonderful section of rim-rock country. I appeared + to be at the extreme point of a vast ten-league promontory, + rising high over the basin, where the rim was cut into canyons as + thick as teeth of a saw. They were notched and v-shaped. Craggy + russet-lichened cliffs, yellow and gold-stained rocks, old + crumbling ruins of pinnacles crowned by pine thickets, ravines + and gullies and canyons, choked with trees and brush all + green-gold, purple-red, scarlet-fire—these indeed were the + heights and depths, the wild, lonely ruggedness, the color and + beauty of Arizona land. There were long, steep slopes of oak + thickets, where the bears lived, long gray slides of weathered + rocks, long slanting ridges of pine, descending for miles out and + down into the green basin, yet always seeming to stand high above + that rolling wilderness. The sun stood crossed by thin + clouds—a golden blaze in a golden sky—sinking to meet + a ragged horizon line of purple.</p><a name="image-0064"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg056_m.jpg" width="448" height="713" alt= + "Another Bear "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Here again was I confronted with the majesty and beauty of the + earth, and with another and more striking effect of this vast + tilted rim of mesa. I could see many miles to west and east. This + rim was a huge wall of splintered rock, a colossal cliff, + towering so high above the black basin below that ravines and + canyons resembled ripples or dimples, darker lines of shade. And + on the other side from its very edge, where the pine fringe + began, it sloped gradually to the north, with heads of canyons + opening almost at the crest. I saw one ravine begin its start not + fifty feet from the rim.</p> + + <p>Barber Shop Canyon had five heads, all running down like the + fingers of a hand, to form the main canyon, which was deep, + narrow, forested by giant pines. A round, level dell, watered by + a murmuring brook, deep down among the many slopes, was our camp + ground, and never had I seen one more desirable. The wind soughed + in the lofty pine tops, but not a breeze reached down to this + sheltered nook. With sunset gold on the high slopes our camp was + shrouded in twilight shadows. R.C. and I stretched a canvas fly + over a rope from tree to tree, staked down the ends, and left the + sides open. Under this we unrolled our beds.</p> + + <p>Night fell quickly down in that sequestered pit, and indeed it + was black night. A blazing camp-fire enhanced the circling gloom, + and invested the great brown pines with some weird aspect. The + boys put up an old tent for the hounds. Poor Buck was driven out + of this shelter by his canine rivals. I took pity upon him, and + tied him at the foot of my bed. When R.C. and I crawled into our + blankets we discovered Buck snugly settled between our beds, and + wonderful to hear, he whined. "Well, Buck, old dog, you keep the + skunks away," said R.C. And Buck emitted some kind of a queer + sound, apparently meant to assure us that he would keep even a + lion away. From my bed I could see the tips of the black pines + close to the white stars. Before I dropped to sleep the night + grew silent, except for the faint moan of wind and low murmur of + brook.</p> + + <p>We crawled out early, keen to run from the cold wash in the + brook to the hot camp-fire. George and Edd had gone down the + canyon after the horses, which had been hobbled and turned loose. + Lee had remained with his father at Beaver Dam camp. For + breakfast Takahashi had venison, biscuits, griddle cakes with + maple syrup, and hot cocoa. I certainly did not begin on an empty + stomach what augured to be a hard day. Buck hung around me this + morning, and I subdued my generous impulses long enough to be + convinced that he had undergone a subtle change. Then I fed him. + Old Dan and Old Tom were witnesses of this procedure, which they + regarded with extreme disfavor. And the pups tried to pick a + fight with Buck.</p> + + <p>By eight o'clock we were riding up the colored slopes, through + the still forest, with the sweet, fragrant, frosty air nipping at + our noses. A mile from camp we reached a notch in the rim that + led down to Dude Creek, and here Edd and Nielsen descended with + the hounds. The rest of us rode out to a point there to await + developments. The sun had already flooded the basin with golden + light; the east slopes of canyon and rim were dark in shade. I + sat on a mat of pine needles near the rim, and looked, and cared + not for passage of time.</p> + + <p>But I was not permitted to be left to sensorial dreams. Right + under us the hounds opened up, filling the canyon full of + bellowing echoes. They worked down. Slopes below us narrowed to + promontories and along these we kept our gaze. Suddenly Haught + gave a jump, and rose, thumping to his horse. "Saw a bar," he + yelled. "Just got a glimpse of him crossin' an open ridge. Come + on." We mounted and chased Haught over the roughest kind of rocky + ground, to overtake him at the next point on the rim. "Ride + along, you fellars," he said, "an' each pick out a stand. Keep + ahead of the dogs an' look sharp."</p> + + <p>Then it was in short order that I found myself alone, Copple, + R.C. and George Haught having got ahead of me. I kept to the rim. + The hounds could be heard plainly and also the encouraging yells + of Nielsen and Edd. Apparently the chase was working along under + me, in the direction I was going. The baying of the pack, the + scent of pine, the ring of iron-shod hoofs on stone, the sense of + wild, broken, vast country, the golden void beneath and the + purple-ranged horizon—all these brought vividly and + thrillingly to mind my hunting days with Buffalo Jones along the + north rim of the Grand Canyon. I felt a pang, both for the past, + and for my friend and teacher, this last of the old plainsmen who + had died recently. In his last letter to me, written with a + death-stricken hand, he had talked of another hunt, of more + adventure, of his cherished hope to possess an island in the + north Pacific, there to propagate wild animals—he had + dreamed again the dream that could never come true. I was riding + with my face to the keen, sweet winds of the wild, and he was + gone. No joy in life is ever perfect. I wondered if any grief was + ever wholly hopeless.</p> + + <p>I came at length to a section of rim where huge timbered steps + reached out and down. Dismounting I tied Stockings, and descended + to the craggy points below, where I clambered here and there, + looking, listening. No longer could I locate the hounds; now the + baying sounded clear and sharp, close at hand, and then hollow + and faint, and far away. I crawled under gnarled cedars, over + jumbles of rock, around leaning crags, until I got out to a point + where I had such command of slopes and capes, where the scene was + so grand that I was both thrilled and awed. Somewhere below me to + my left were the hounds still baying. The lower reaches of the + rim consisted of ridges and gorges, benches and ravines, canyons + and promontories—a country so wild and broken that it + seemed impossible for hounds to travel it, let alone men. Above + me, to my right, stuck out a yellow point of rim, and beyond that + I knew there jutted out another point, and more and more points + on toward the west. George was yelling from one of them, and I + thought I heard a faint reply from R.C. or Copple. I believed for + the present they were too far westward along the rim, and so I + devoted my attention to the slopes under me toward my left. But + once my gaze wandered around, and suddenly I espied a shiny black + object moving along a bare slope, far below. A bear! So thrilled + and excited was I that I did not wonder why this bear walked + along so leisurely and calmly. Assuredly he had not even heard + the hounds. I began to shoot, and in five rapid shots I spattered + dust all over him. Not until I had two more shots, one of which + struck close, did he begin to run. Then he got out of my sight. I + yelled and yelled to those ahead of me along the rim. Somebody + answered, and next somebody began to shoot. How I climbed and + crawled and scuffled to get back to my horse! Stockings answered + to the spirit of the occasion. Like a deer he ran around the + rough rim, and I had to perform with the agility of a + contortionist to avoid dead snags of trees and green branches. + When I got to the point from which I had calculated George had + done his shooting I found no one. My yells brought no answers. + But I heard a horse cracking the rocks behind me. Then up from + far below rang the sharp spangs of rifles in quick action. + Nielsen and Edd were shooting. I counted seven shots. How the + echoes rang from wall to wall, to die hollow and faint in the + deep canyons!</p> + + <p>I galloped ahead to the next point, finding only the tracks of + R.C.'s boots. Everywhere I peered for the bear I had sighted, and + at intervals I yelled. For all the answer I got I might as well + have been alone on the windy rim of the world. My voice seemed + lost in immensity. Then I rode westward, then back eastward, and + to and fro until both Stockings and I were weary. At last I gave + up, and took a good, long rest under a pine on the rim. Not a + shot, not a yell, not a sound but wind and the squall of a jay + disrupted the peace of that hour. I profited by this lull in the + excitement by more means than one, particularly in sight of a + flock of wild pigeons. They alighted in the tops of pines below + me, so that I could study them through my field glass. They were + considerably larger than doves, dull purple color on the back, + light on the breast, with ringed or barred neck. Haught had + assured me that birds of this description were indeed the famous + wild pigeons, now almost extinct in the United States. I + remembered my father telling me he had seen flocks that darkened + the skies. These pigeons appeared to have swift flight.</p> + + <p>Another feature of this rest along the rim was a sight just as + beautiful as that of the pigeons, though not so rare; and it was + the flying of clouds of colored autumn leaves on the wind.</p> + + <p>The westering of the sun advised me that the hours had fled, + and it was high time for me to bestir myself toward camp. On my + way back I found Haught, his son George, Copple and R.C. waiting + for Edd and Nielsen to come up over the rim, and for me to + return. They asked for my story. Then I learned theirs. Haught + had kept even with the hounds, but had seen only the brown bear + that had crossed the ridge early in the day. Copple had worked + far westward, to no avail. R.C. had been close to George and me, + had heard our bullets pat, yet had been unable to locate any + bear. To my surprise it turned out that George had shot at a + brown bear when I had supposed it was my black one. Whereupon + Haught said: "Reckon Edd an' Nielsen smoked up some other + bear."</p> + + <p>One by one the hounds climbed over the rim and wearily lay + down beside us. Down the long, grassy, cedared aisle I saw Edd + and Nielsen plodding up. At length they reached us wet and dusty + and thirsty. When Edd got his breath he said: "Right off we + struck a hot trail. Bear with eleven-inch track. He'd come down + to drink last night. Hounds worked up thet yeller oak thicket, + an' somewhere Sue an' Rock jumped him out of his bed. He run + down, an' he made some racket. Took to the low slopes an' hit up + lively all the way down Dude, then crossed, climbed around under + thet bare point of rock. Here some of the hounds caught up with + him. We heard a pup yelp, an' after a while Kaiser Bill come + sneakin' back. It was awful thick down in the canyon so we + climbed the east side high enough to see. An' we were workin' + down when the pack bayed the bear round thet bare point. It was + up an' across from us. Nielsen an' I climbed on a rock. There was + an open rock-slide where we thought the bear would show. It was + five hundred yards. We ought to have gone across an' got a stand + higher up. Well, pretty soon we saw him come paddlin' out of the + brush—a big grizzly, almost black, with a frosty back. He + was a silvertip all right. Niels an' I began to shoot. An' thet + bear began to hump himself. He was mad, too. His fur stood up + like a ruffle on his neck. Niels got four shots an' I got three. + Reckon one of us stung him a little. Lordy, how he run! An' his + last jump off the slide was a header into the brush. He crossed + the canyon, an' climbed thet high east slope of Dude, goin' over + the pass where father killed the big cinnamon three years ago. + The hounds stuck to his trail. It took us an hour or more to + climb up to thet pass. Broad bear trail goes over. We heard the + hounds 'way down in the canyon on the other side. Niels an' I + worked along the ridge, down an' around, an' back to Dude Creek. + I kept callin' the hounds till they all came back. They couldn't + catch him. He sure was a jack-rabbit for runnin'. Reckon thet's + all.... Now who was smokin' shells up on the rim?"</p> + + <p>When all was told and talked over Haught said: "Wal, you can + just bet we put up two brown bears an' one black bear, an' thet + old Jasper of a silvertip."</p> + + <p>How hungry and thirsty and tired I was when we got back to + camp! The day had been singularly rich in exciting thrills and + sensorial perceptions. I called to the Jap: "I'm starv-ved to + death!" And Takahashi, who had many times heard my little boy + Loren yell that, grinned all over his dusky face. "Aw, lots good + things pretty soon!"</p> + + <p>After supper we lounged around a cheerful, crackling + camp-fire. The blaze roared in the breeze, the red embers glowed + white and opal, the smoke swooped down and curled away into the + night shadows. Old Dan, as usual, tried to sit in the fire, and + had to be rescued. Buck came to me where I sat with my back to a + pine, my feet to the warmth. He was lame to-night, having run all + day on that injured leg. The other dogs lay scattered around in + range of the heat. Natural indeed was it then, in such an + environment, after talking over the auspicious start of our hunt + at Dude Creek, that we should drift to the telling of + stories.</p> + + <p>Sensing this drift I opened the hour of reminiscence and told + some of my experiences in the jungle of southern Mexico. Copple + immediately topped my stories by more wonderful and hair-raising + ones about his own adventures in northern Mexico. These stirred + Nielsen to talk about the Seri Indians, and their cannibalistic + traits; and from these he drifted to the Yuma Indians. Speaking + of their remarkable stature and strength he finally got to the + subject of giants of brawn and bone in Norway.</p> + + <p>One young Norwegian was eight feet tall and broad in + proportion. His employer was a captain of a fishing boat. One + time, on the way to their home port, a quarrel arose about money + due the young giant, and in his anger he heaved the anchor + overboard. That of course halted the boat, and it stayed halted, + because the captain and crew could not heave the heavy anchor + without the help of their brawny comrade. Finally the money + matter was adjusted, and the young giant heaved the anchor + without assistance. Nielsen went on to tell that this fisherman + of such mighty frame had a beautiful young wife whom he adored. + She was not by any means a small or frail girl—rather the + contrary—but she appeared diminutive beside her giant + husband. One day he returned from a long absence on the sea. When + his wife, in her joy, ran into his arms, he gave her such a + tremendous hug that he crushed her chest, and she died. In his + grief the young husband went insane and did not survive her + long.</p> + + <p>Next Nielsen told a story about Norwegians sailing to the + Arctic on a scientific expedition. Just before the long polar + night of darkness set in there arose a necessity for the ship and + crew to return to Norway. Two men must be left in the Arctic to + care for the supplies until the ship came back. The captain + called for volunteers. There were two young men in the crew, and + from childhood they had been playmates, schoolmates, closer than + brothers, and inseparable even in manhood. One of these young men + said to his friend: "I'll stay if you will." And the other + quickly agreed. After the ship sailed, and the land of the + midnight sun had become icy and black, one of these comrades fell + ill, and soon died. The living one placed the body in the room + with the ship supplies, where it froze stiff; and during all the + long polar night of solitude and ghastly gloom he lived next to + this sepulchre that contained his dead friend. When the ship + returned the crew found the living comrade an old man with hair + as white as snow, and never in his life afterward was he seen to + smile.</p> + + <p>These stories stirred my emotions like Doyle's tale about + Jones' Ranch. How wonderful, beautiful, terrible and tragical is + human life! Again I heard the still, sad music of humanity, the + eternal beat and moan of the waves upon a lonely shingle shore. + Who would not be a teller of tales?</p> + + <p>Copple followed Nielsen with a story about a prodigious feat + of his own—a story of incredible strength and endurance, + which at first I took to be a satire on Nielsen's remarkable + narrative. But Copple seemed deadly serious, and I began to see + that he possessed a strange simplicity of exaggeration. The boys + thought Copple stretched the truth a little, but I thought that + he believed what he told.</p> + + <p>Haught was a great teller of tales, and his first story of the + evening happened to be about his brother Bill. They had a long + chase after a bear and became separated. Bill was new at the + game, and he was a peculiar fellow anyhow. Much given to talking + to himself! Haught finally rode to the edge of a ridge and espied + Bill under a pine in which the hounds had treed a bear. Bill did + not hear Haught's approach, and on the moment he was stalking + round the pine, swearing at the bear, which clung to a branch + about half way up. Then Haught discovered two more full-grown + bears up in the top of the pine, the presence of which Bill had + not the remotest suspicion. "Ahuh! you ole black Jasper!" Bill + was yelling. "I treed you an' in a minnit I'm agoin' to + assassinate you. Chased me about a hundred miles—! An' + thought you'd fool me, didn't you? Why, I've treed more bears + than you ever saw—! You needn't look at me like thet, + 'cause I'm mad as a hornet. I'm agoin' to assassinate you in a + minnit an' skin your black har off, I am—"</p> + + <p>"Bill," interrupted Haught, "what are you goin' to do about + the other two bears up in the top of the tree?"</p> + + <p>Bill was amazed to hear and see his brother, and greatly + astounded and tremendously elated to discover the other two + bears. He yelled and acted as one demented. "Three black Jaspers! + I've treed you all. An' I'm agoin' to assassinate you all!"</p> + + <p>"See here, Bill," said Haught, "before you begin that + assassinatin' make up your mind not to cripple any of them. + You've got to shoot straight, so they'll be dead when they fall. + If they're only crippled, they'll kill the hounds."</p> + + <p>Bill was insulted at any suggestions as to his possible poor + marksmanship. But this happened to be his first experience with + bears in trees. He began to shoot and it took nine shots for him + to dislodge the bears. Worse than that they all tumbled out of + the tree—apparently unhurt. The hounds, of course, attacked + them, and there arose a terrible uproar. Haught had to run down + to save his dogs. Bill was going to shoot right into the melee, + but Haught knocked the rifle up, and forbid him to use it. Then + Bill ran into the thick of the fray to beat off the hounds. + Haught became exceedingly busy himself, and finally disposed of + two of the bears. Then hearing angry bawls and terrific yells he + turned to see Bill climbing a tree with a big black bear tearing + the seat out of his pants. Haught disposed of this bear also. + Then he said: "Bill, I thought you was goin' to assassinate + them." Bill slid down out of the tree, very pale and disheveled. + "By Golly, I'll skin 'em anyhow!"</p> + + <p>Haught had another brother named Henry, who had come to + Arizona from Texas, and had brought a half-hound with him. Henry + offered to wager this dog was the best bear chaser in the + country. The general impression Henry's hound gave was that he + would not chase a rabbit. Finally Haught took his brother Henry + and some other men on a bear hunt. There were wagers made as to + the quality of Henry's half-hound. When at last Haught's pack + struck a hot scent, and were off with the men riding fast behind, + Henry's half-breed loped alongside his master, paying no + attention to the wild baying of the pack. He would look up at + Henry as if to say: "No hurry, boss. Wait a little. Then I'll + show them!" He loped along, wagging his tail, evidently enjoying + this race with his master. After a while the chase grew hotter. + Then Henry's half-hound ran ahead a little way, and came back to + look up wisely, as if to say: "Not time yet!" After a while, when + the chase grew very hot indeed, Henry's wonderful canine let out + a wild yelp, darted ahead, overtook the pack and took the lead in + the chase, literally chewing the heels of the bear till he treed. + Haught and his friends lost all the wagers.</p> + + <p>The most remarkable bears in this part of Arizona were what + Haught called blue bears, possibly some kind of a cross between + brown and black. This species was a long, slim, blue-furred bear + with unusually large teeth and very long claws. So different from + ordinary bears that it appeared another species. The blue bear + could run like a greyhound, and keep it up all day and all night. + Its power of endurance was incredible. In Haught's twenty years + of hunting there he had seen a number of blue bears and had + killed two. Haught chased one all day with young and fast hounds. + He went to camp, but the hounds stuck to the chase. Next day + Haught followed the hounds and bear from Dude Creek over into + Verde Canyon, back to Dude Creek, and then back to Verde again. + Here Haught gave out, and was on his way home when he met the + blue bear padding along as lively as ever.</p> + + <p>I never tired of listening to Haught. He had killed over a + hundred bears, many of them vicious grizzlies, and he had often + escaped by a breadth of a hair, but the killing stories were not + the most interesting to me. Haught had lived a singularly + elemental life. He never knew what to tell me, because I did not + know what to ask for, so I just waited for stories, experiences, + woodcraft, natural history and the like, to come when they would. + Once he had owned an old bay horse named Moze. Under any + conditions of weather or country Moze could find his way back to + camp. Haught would let go the bridle, and Moze would stick up his + ears, look about him, and circle home. No matter if camp had been + just where Haught had last thrown a packsaddle!</p> + + <p>When Haught first came to Arizona and began his hunting up + over the rim he used to get down in the cedar country, close to + the desert. Here he heard of a pure black antelope that was the + leader of a herd of ordinary color, which was a grayish white. + The day came when Haught saw this black antelope. It was a very + large, beautiful stag, the most noble and wild and sagacious + animal Haught had ever seen. For years he tried to stalk it and + kill it, and so did other hunters. But no hunter ever got even a + shot at it. Finally this black antelope disappeared and was never + heard of again.</p> + + <p>By this time Copple had been permitted a long breathing spell, + and now began a tale calculated to outdo the Arabian Nights. I + envied his most remarkable imagination. His story had to do with + hunting meat for a mining camp in Mexico. He got so expert with a + rifle that he never aimed at deer. Just threw his gun, as was a + habit of gun-fighters! Once the camp was out of meat, and also he + was out of ammunition. Only one shell left! He came upon a herd + of deer licking salt at a deer lick. They were small deer and he + wanted several or all of them. So he manoeuvred around and waited + until five of the deer had lined up close together. Then, to make + sure, he aimed so as to send his one bullet through their necks. + Killed the whole five in one shot!</p> + + <p>We were all reduced to a state of mute helplessness and + completely at Copple's mercy. Next he gave us one of his animal + tales. He was hunting along the gulf shore on the coast of + Sonora, where big turtles come out to bask in the sun and big + jaguars come down to prowl for meat. One morning he saw a jaguar + jump on the back of a huge turtle, and begin to paw at its neck. + Promptly the turtle drew in head and flippers, and was safe under + its shell. The jaguar scratched and clawed at a great rate, but + to no avail. Then the big cat turned round and seized the tail of + the turtle and began to chew it. Whereupon the turtle stuck out + its head, opened its huge mouth and grasped the tail of the + jaguar. First to give in was the cat. He let go and let out a + squall. But the turtle started to crawl off, got going strong, + and dragged the jaguar into the sea and drowned him. With naive + earnestness Copple assured his mute listeners that he could show + them the exact spot in Sonora where this happened.</p> + + <p>Retribution inevitably overtakes transgressors. Copple in his + immense loquaciousness was not transgressing much, for he really + was no greater dreamer than I, but the way he put things made us + want to see the mighty hunter have a fall.</p> + + <p>We rested the hounds next day, and I was glad to rest myself. + About sunset Copple rode up to the rim to look for his mules. We + all heard him shoot eight times with his rifle and two with his + revolver. Everybody said: "Turkeys! Ten turkeys—maybe a + dozen, if Copple got two in line!" And we were all glad to think + so. We watched eagerly for him, but he did not return till dark. + He seemed vastly sore at himself. What a remarkable hard luck + story he told! He had come upon a flock of turkeys, and they were + rather difficult to see. All of them were close, and running + fast. He shot eight times at eight turkeys and missed them all. + Too dark—brush—trees—running like deer. Copple + had a dozen excuses. Then he saw a turkey on a log ten feet away. + He shot twice. The turkey was a knot, and he had missed even + that.</p> + + <p>Thereupon I seized my opportunity and reminded all present how + Copple had called out: "Turkey number one! Turkey number two!" + the day I had missed so many. Then I said:</p> + + <p>"Ben, you must have yelled out to-night like this." And I + raised my voice high.</p> + + <p>"Turkey number one—Nix!... Turkey number + two—missed, by Gosh!... Turkey number three—never + touched him!... Turkey number four—No!... Turkey number + five—<i>Aw, I'm shootin' blank shells</i>!... Turkey number + six on the log—BY THUNDER, I CAN'T SEE STRAIGHT!"</p> + + <p>We all had our fun at Copple's expense. The old bear hunter, + Haught, rolled on the ground, over and over, and roared in his + mirth.</p> + + <center> + VII + </center> + + <p>Early next morning before the sun had tipped the pines with + gold I went down Barber Shop Canyon with Copple to look for our + horses. During the night our stock had been chased by a lion. We + had all been awakened by their snorting and stampeding. We found + our horses scattered, the burros gone, and Copple's mules still + squared on guard, ready to fight. Copple assured me that this + formation of his mules on guard was an infallible sign of lions + prowling around. One of these mules he had owned for ten years + and it was indeed the most intelligent beast I ever saw in the + woods.</p> + + <p>We found three beaver dams across the brook, one about fifty + feet long, and another fully two hundred. Fresh turkey tracks + showed in places, and on the top of the longer dam, fresh made in + the mud, were lion tracks as large as the crown of my hat. How + sight of them made me tingle all over! Here was absolute proof of + the prowling of one of the great cats.</p> + + <p>Beaver tracks were everywhere. They were rather singular + looking tracks, the front feet being five-toed, and the back + three-toed, and webbed. Near the slides on the bank the water was + muddy, showing that the beaver had been at work early. These + animals worked mostly at night, but sometimes at sunset and + sunrise. They were indeed very cautious and wary. These dams had + just been completed and no aspens had yet been cut for food. + Beaver usually have two holes to their home, one under the water, + and the other out on the bank. We found one of these outside + burrows and it was nearly a foot wide.</p> + + <p>Upon our return to camp with the horses Haught said he could + put up that lion for us, and from the size of its track he judged + it to be a big one. I did not want to hunt lions and R.C. + preferred to keep after bears. "Wal," said Haught, "I'll take an + off day an' chase thet lion. Had a burro killed here a couple of + years ago."</p> + + <p>So we rode out with the hounds on another bear hunt. Pyle's + Canyon lay to the east of Dude Creek, and we decided to run it + that day. Edd and Nielsen started down with the hounds. Copple + and I followed shortly afterward with the intention of descending + mid-way, and then working along the ridge crests and + promontories. The other boys remained on the rim to take up + various stands as occasion called for.</p> + + <p>I had never been on as steep slopes as these under the rim. + They were grassy, brushy, rocky, but it was their steepness that + made them so hard to travel. Right off, half way down, we started + a herd of bucks. The noise they made sounded like cattle. We + found tracks of half a dozen. "Lots of deer under the rim," + declared Copple, his eyes gleaming. "They're feedin' on acorns. + Here's where you'll get your big buck." After that I kept a sharp + lookout, arguing with myself that a buck close at hand was worth + a lot of bears down in the brush.</p> + + <p>Presently we changed a direct descent to work gradually along + the slopes toward a great level bench covered with pines. We had + to cross gravel patches and pits where avalanches had slid, and + at last, gaining the bench we went through the pine grove, out to + a manzanita thicket, to a rocky point where the ledges were + toppling and dangerous. The stand here afforded a magnificent + view. We were now down in the thick of this sloped and canyoned + and timbered wildness; no longer above it, and aloof from it. The + dry smell of pine filled the air. When we finally halted to + listen we at once heard the baying of the hounds in the black + notch below us. We watched and listened. And presently across + open patches we saw the flash of deer, and then Rock and Buck + following them. Thus were my suspicions of Rock fully confirmed. + Copple yelled down to Edd that some of the hounds were running + deer, but apparently Edd was too far away to hear.</p> + + <p>Still, after a while we heard the mellow tones of Edd's horn, + calling in the hounds. And then he blew the signal to acquaint + all of us above that he was going down around the point to drive + the next canyon. Copple and I had to choose between climbing back + to the rim or trying to cross the slopes and head the gorges, and + ascend the huge ridge that separated Pyle's Canyon from the next + canyon. I left the question to Copple, with the result that we + stayed below.</p> + + <p>We were still high up, though when we gazed aloft at the rim + we felt so far down, and the slopes were steep, stony, soft in + places and slippery in others, with deep cuts and patches of + manzanita. No stranger was I to this beautiful treacherous + Spanish brush! I shared with Copple a dislike of it almost equal + to that inspired by cactus. We soon were hot, dusty, dry, and had + begun to sweat. The immense distances of the place were what + continually struck me. Distances that were deceptive—that + looked short and were interminable! That was Arizona. We covered + miles in our detours and we had to travel fast because we knew + Edd could round the base of the lower points in quick time.</p> + + <p>Above the head of the third gorge Copple and I ran across an + enormous bear track, fresh in the dust, leading along an old bear + trail. This track measured twelve inches. "He's an old Jasper, as + Haught says," declared Copple. "Grizzly. An' you can bet he heard + the dogs an' got movin' away from here. But he ain't scared. He + was walkin'."</p> + + <p>I forgot the arduous toil. How tight and cool and prickling + the feel of my skin! The fresh track of a big grizzly would rouse + the hunter in any man. We made sure how fresh this track was by + observing twigs and sprigs of manzanita just broken. The wood was + green, and wet with sap. Old Bruin had not escaped our eyes any + too soon. We followed this bear trail, evidently one used for + years. It made climbing easy for us. Trust a big, heavy, old + grizzly to pick out the best traveling over rough country! This + fellow, I concluded, had the eye of a surveyor. His trail led + gradually toward a wonderful crag-crowned ridge that rolled and + heaved down from the rim. It had a dip or saddle in the middle, + and rose from that to the lofty mesa, and then on the lower side, + rose to a bare, round point of gray rock, a landmark, a + dome-shaped tower where the gods of that wild region might have + kept their vigil.</p> + + <p>Long indeed did it take us to climb up the bear trail to where + it crossed the saddle and went down on the other side into a + canyon so deep and wild that it was purple. This saddle was + really a remarkable place—a natural trail and outlet and + escape for bears traveling from one canyon to another. Our bear + tracks showed fresh, and we saw where they led down a steep, + long, dark aisle between pines and spruces to a dense black + thicket below. The saddle was about twenty feet wide, and on each + side of it rose steep rocks, affording most effective stands for + a hunter to wait and watch.</p> + + <p>We rested then, and listened. There was only a little wind, + and often it fooled us. It sounded like the baying of hounds, and + now like the hallooing of men, and then like the distant peal of + a horn. By and bye Copple said he heard the hounds. I could not + be sure. Soon we indeed heard the deep-sounding, wild bay of Old + Dan, the course, sharp, ringing bay of Old Tom, and then, less + clear, the chorus from the other hounds. Edd had started them on + a trail up this magnificent canyon at our feet. After a while we + heard Edd's yell, far away, but clear: "Hi! Hi!" We could see a + part of the thicket, shaggy and red and gold; and a mile or more + of the opposite wall of the canyon. No rougher, wilder place + could have been imagined than this steep slope of bluffs, ledges, + benches, all matted with brush, and spotted with pines. Holes and + caves and cracks showed, and yellow blank walls, and bronze + points, and green slopes, and weathered slides.</p> + + <p>Soon the baying of the hounds appeared to pass below and + beyond us, up the canyon to our right, a circumstance that + worried Copple. "Let's go farther up," he kept saying. But I was + loath to leave that splendid stand. The baying of the hounds + appeared to swing round closer under us; to ring, to swell, to + thicken until it was a continuous and melodious, wild, echoing + roar. The narrowing walls of the canyon threw the echoes back and + forth.</p> + + <p>Presently I espied moving dots, one blue, one brown, on the + opposite slope. They were Haught and his son Edd slowly and + laboriously climbing up the steep bluff. How like snails they + climbed! Theirs was indeed a task. A yell pealed out now and + then, and though it seemed to come from an entirely different + direction it surely must have come from the Haughts. Presently + some one high on the rim answered with like yells. The chase was + growing hotter.</p> + + <p>"They've got a bear up somewhere," cried Copple, excitedly. + And I agreed with him.</p> + + <p>Then we were startled by the sharp crack of a rifle from the + rim.</p> + + <p>"The ball's open! Get your pardners, boys," exclaimed Copple, + with animation.</p> + + <p>"Ben, wasn't that a.30 Gov't?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Sure was," he replied. "Must have been R.C. openin' up. Now + look sharp!"</p> + + <p>I gazed everywhere, growing more excited and thrilled. Another + shot from above, farther off and from a different rifle, + augmented our stirring expectation.</p> + + <p>Copple left our stand and ran up over the ridge, and then down + under and along the base of a rock wall. I had all I could do to + keep up with him. We got perhaps a hundred yards when we heard + the spang of Haught's.30 Gov't. Following this his big, hoarse + voice bawled out: "He's goin' to the left—to the left!" + That sent us right about face, to climbing, scrambling, running + and plunging back to our first stand at the saddle, where we + arrived breathless and eager.</p> + + <p>Edd was climbing higher up, evidently to reach the level top + of the bluff above, and Haught was working farther up the canyon, + climbing a little. Copple yelled with all his might: "Where's the + bear?"</p> + + <p>"Bar everywhar!" pealed back Haught's stentorian voice. How + the echoes clapped!</p> + + <p>Just then Copple electrified me with a wild shout. + "<i>Wehow</i>! I see him.... What a whopper!" He threw up his + rifle: + <i>spang</i>—<i>spang</i>—<i>spang</i>—<i>spang</i>—<i> + spang</i>.</p> + + <p>His aim was across the canyon. I heard his bullets strike. I + strained my eyes in flashing gaze everywhere. "Where? Where?" I + cried, wildly.</p> + + <p>"There!" shouted Copple, keenly, and he pointed across the + canyon. "He's goin' over the bench—above Edd.... Now he's + out of sight. Watch just over Edd. He'll cross that bench, go + round the head of the little canyon, an' come out on the other + side, under the bare bluff.... Watch sharp-right by that big + spruce with the dead top.... He's a grizzly an' as big as a + horse".</p> + + <p>I looked until my eyes hurt. All I said was: "Ben, you saw + game first to-day". Suddenly a large, dark brown object, furry + and grizzled, huge and round, moved out of the shadow under the + spruce and turned to go along the edge in the open sunlight.</p> + + <p>"Oh! look at him!" I yelled. A strong, hot gust of blood ran + all over me and I thrilled till I shook. When I aimed at the bear + I could see him through the circle of my peep sight, but when I + moved the bead of the front sight upon him it almost covered him + up. The distance was far—more than a thousand + yards—over half a mile—we calculated afterward. But I + tried to draw a bead on the big, wagging brown shape and fired + till my rifle was empty.</p> + + <p>Meanwhile Copple had reloaded. "You watch while I shoot," he + said. "Tell me where I'm hittin'."</p> + + <p>Wonderful was it to see how swiftly he could aim and shoot. I + saw a puff of dust. "Low, Ben!" Spang rang his rifle. "High!" + Again he shot, wide this time. He emptied his magazine. "Smoke + him now!" he shouted, gleefully. "I'll watch while you + shoot."</p> + + <p>"It's too far, Ben," I replied, as I jammed the last shell in + the receiver.</p> + + <p>"No—no. It's only we don't hold right. Aim a little + coarse," said Copple. "Gee, ain't he some bear! 'No scared tall' + as the Jap says.... He's one of the old sheep-killers. He'll + weigh half a ton. Smoke him now!"</p> + + <p>My excitement was intense. It seemed, however, I was most + consumed with admiration for that grizzly. Not in the least was + he afraid. He walked along the rough places, trotted along the + ledges, and here and there he halted to gaze below him. I waited + for one of these halts, aimed a trifle high, and fired. The + grizzly made a quick, angry movement and then jumped up on a + ledge. He jumped like a rabbit.</p> + + <p>"You hit close that time," yelled Ben. "Hold the same + way—a little coarser."</p> + + <p>My next bullet struck a puff from rock above the bear, and my + third, hitting just in front of him, as he was on a yellow ledge, + covered him with dust. He reared, and wheeling, sheered back and + down the step he had mounted, and disappeared in a clump of + brush. I shot into that. We heard my bullet crack the twigs. But + it routed him out, and then my last shot hit far under him.</p> + + <p>Copple circled his mouth with his hands and bellowed to the + Haughts: "Climb! Climb! Hurry! Hurry! He's just above + you—under that bluff."</p> + + <p>The Haughts heard, and evidently tried to do all in their + power, but they moved like snails. Then Copple fired five more + shots, quick, yet deliberate, and he got through before I had + reloaded; and as I began my third magazine Copple was so swift in + reloading that his first shot mingled with my second. How we made + the welkin ring! Wild yells pealed down from the rim. Somewhere + from the purple depths below Nielsen's giant's voice rolled up. + The Haughts opposite answered with their deep, hoarse yells. Old + Dan and Old Tom bayed like distant thunder. The young hounds let + out a string of sharp, keen yelps. Copple added his Indian cry, + high-pitched and wild, to the pandemonium. But I could not shoot + and screech at one and the same time.</p> + + <p>"Hurry, Ben," I said, as I finished my third set of five + shots, the last shot of which was my best and knocked dirt in the + face of the grizzly.</p> + + <p>Again he reared. This time he appeared to locate our + direction. Above the bedlam of yells and bays and yelps and + echoes I imagined I heard the grizzly roar. He was now getting + farther along the base of the bluff, and I saw that he would + escape us. My rifle barrel was hot as fire. My fingers were all + thumbs. I jammed a shell into the receiver. My last chance had + fled! But Copple's big, brown, swift hands fed shells to his + magazine as ears of corn go to a grinder. He had a way of poking + the base of a shell straight down into the receiver and making it + snap forward and down. Then he fired five more shots as swiftly + as he had reloaded. Some of these hit close to our quarry. The + old grizzly slowed up, and looked across, and wagged his huge + head.</p> + + <p>"My gun's on fire all right," said Copple, grimly, as he + loaded still more rapidly. Carefully he aimed and pulled trigger. + The grizzly gave a spasmodic jerk as if stung and suddenly he + made a prodigious leap off a ledge, down into a patch of brush, + where he threshed like a lassoed elephant.</p> + + <p>"Ben, you hit him!" I yelled, excitedly.</p> + + <p>"Only made him mad. He's not hurt.... See, he's up again.... + Will you look at that!"</p> + + <p>The grizzly appeared to roll out of the brush, and like a huge + furry ball of brown, he bounced down the thicketed slope to an + open slide where he unrolled, and stretched into a run. Copple + got two more shots before he was out of sight.</p> + + <p>"Gone!" ejaculated Copple. "An' we never fetched him!... He + ain't hurt. Did you see him pile down an' roll off that slope?... + Let's see. I got twenty-three shots at him. How many had + you?"</p> + + <p>"I had fifteen."</p> + + <p>"Say, it was some fun, wasn't it—smokin' him along + there? But we ought to have fetched the old sheep-killer.... + Wonder what's happened to the other fellows."</p> + + <p>We looked about us. Not improbably the exciting moments had + been few in number, yet they seemed long indeed. The Haughts had + gotten to the top of the bluff, and were tearing through the + brush toward the point Copple had designated. They reached it too + late.</p> + + <p>"Where is he?" yelled Edd.</p> + + <p>"Gone!" boomed Copple. "Runnin' down the canyon. Call the dogs + an' go down after him."</p> + + <p>When the Haughts came out into the open upon that bench one of + the pups and the spotted hound, Rock, were with them. Old Dan and + old Tom were baying up at the head of the canyon, and Sue could + be heard yelping somewhere else. Bear trails seemingly were + abundant near our whereabouts. Presently the Haughts disappeared + at the back of the bench where the old grizzly had gone down, and + evidently they put the two hounds on his trail.</p> + + <p>"That grizzly will climb over round the lower end of this + ridge," declared Copple. "We want to be there."</p> + + <p>So we hurriedly left our stand, and taking to the South side + of the ridge, we ran and walked and climbed and plunged down + along the slope. Keeping up with Copple on foot was harder than + riding after Edd and George. When soon we reached a manzanita + thicket I could no longer keep Copple in sight. He was so + powerful that he just crashed through, but I had to worm my way, + and walk over the tops of the bushes, like a tight-rope + performer. Of all strong, thick, spiky brush manzanita was the + worst.</p> + + <p>In half an hour I joined Copple at the point under the + dome-topped end of the ridge, only to hear the hounds apparently + working back up the canyon. There was nothing for us to do but + return to our stand at the saddle. Copple hurried faster than + ever. But I had begun to tire and I could not keep up with him. + But as I had no wild cravings to meet that old grizzly face to + face all by myself in a manzanita thicket I did manage by + desperate efforts to keep the Indian in sight. When I reached our + stand I was wet and exhausted. After the hot, stifling, dusty + glare of the yellow slope and the burning of the manzanita brush, + the cool shade was a welcome change.</p> + + <p>Somewhere all the hounds were baying. Not for some time could + we locate the Haughts. Finally with the aid of my glass we + discovered them perched high upon the bluff above where our + grizzly had gone round. It appeared that Edd was pointing across + the canyon and his father was manifesting a keen interest. We did + not need the glass then to tell that they saw a bear. Both + leveled their rifles and fired, apparently across the canyon. + Then they stood like statues.</p> + + <p>"I'll go down into the thicket," said Copple. "Maybe I can get + a shot. An' anyway I want to see our grizzly's tracks." With that + he started down, and once on the steep bear trail he slid rather + than walked, and soon was out of my sight. After that I heard him + crashing through thicket and brush. Soon this sound ceased. The + hounds, too, had quit baying and the wind had lulled. Not a + rustle of a leaf! All the hunters were likewise silent. I enjoyed + a lonely hour there watching and listening, not however without + apprehensions of a bear coming along. Certain I was that this + canyon, which I christened Bear Canyon, had been full of + bears.</p> + + <p>At length I espied Copple down on the edge of the opposite + slope. The way he toiled along proved how rough was the going. I + watched him through my glasses, and was again impressed with the + strange difference between the semblance of distance and the + reality. Every few steps Copple would halt to rest. He had to + hold on to the brush and in the bare places where he could not + reach a bush he had to dig his heels into the earth to keep from + sliding down. In time he ascended to the place where our grizzly + had rolled down, and from there he yelled up to the Haughts, high + above him. They answered, and soon disappeared on the far side of + the bluff. Copple also disappeared going round under the wall of + yellow rock. Perhaps in fifteen minutes I heard them yell, and + then a wild clamor of the hounds. Some of the pack had been put + on the trail of our grizzly; but gradually the sound grew farther + away.</p> + + <p>This was too much for me. I decided to go down into the + canyon. Forthwith I started. It was easy to go down! As a matter + of fact it was hard not to slide down like a streak. That long, + dark, narrow aisle between the spruces had no charm for me + anyway. Suppose I should meet a bear coming up as I was sliding + down! I sheered off and left the trail, and also Copple's tracks. + This was a blunder. I came out into more open slope, but steeper, + and harder to cling on. Ledges cropped out, cliffs and ravines + obstructed my passage and trees were not close enough to help me + much. Some long slopes of dark, mossy, bare earth I actually ran + down, trusting to light swift steps rather than slow careful + ones. It was exhilarating, that descent under the shady spruces. + The lower down I got the smaller and more numerous the trees. I + could see where they left off to the dense thicket that choked + the lower part of the v-shaped canyon. And I was amazed at the + size and density of that jungle of scrub oaks, maples and aspens. + From above the color was a blaze of scarlet and gold and green, + with bronze tinge.</p> + + <p>Presently I crossed a fresh bear track, so fresh that I could + see the dampness of the dark earth, the rolling of little + particles, the springing erect of bent grasses. In some places + big sections of earth, a yard wide had slipped under the feet of + this particular bear. He appeared to be working down. Right then + I wanted to go up! But I could not climb out there. I had to go + down. Soon I was under low-spreading, dense spruces, and I had to + hold on desperately to keep from sliding. All the time naturally + I kept a keen lookout for a bear. Every stone and tree trunk + resembled a bear. I decided if I met a grizzly that I would not + annoy him on that slope. I would say: "Nice bear, I won't hurt + you!" Still the situation had some kind of charm. But to claim I + was not frightened would not be strictly truthful. I slid over + the trail of that bear into the trail of another one, and under + the last big spruce on that part of the slope I found a hollow + nest of pine needles and leaves, and if that bed was not still + warm then my imagination lent considerable to the moment.</p> + + <p>Beyond this began the edge of the thicket. It was small pine + at first, so close together that I had to squeeze through, and as + dark as twilight. The ground was a slant of brown pine needles, + so slippery, that if I could not have held on to trees and + branches I never would have kept my feet. In this dark strip I + had more than apprehensions. What a comfortable place to + encounter an outraged or wounded grizzly bear! The manzanita + thicket was preferable. But as Providence would have it I did not + encounter one.</p> + + <p>Soon I worked or wormed out of the pines into the thicket of + scrub oaks, maples and aspens. The change was welcome. Not only + did the slope lengthen out, but the light changed from gloom to + gold. There was half a foot of scarlet, gold, bronze, red and + purple leaves on the ground, and every step I made I kicked + acorns about to rustle and roll. Bear sign was everywhere, tracks + and trails and beds and scratches. I kept going down, and the + farther down I got the lighter it grew, and more approaching a + level. One glade was strangely luminous and beautiful with a + blending of gold and purple light made by the sun shining through + the leaves overhead down upon the carpet of leaves on the ground. + Then I came into a glade that reminded me of Kipling's moonlight + dance of the wild elephants. Here the leaves and fern were rolled + and matted flat, smooth as if done by a huge roller. Bears and + bears had lolled and slept and played there. A little below this + glade was a place, shady and cool, where a seep of water came + from under a bank. It looked like a herd of cattle had stamped + the earth, only the tracks were bear tracks. Little ones no + longer than a child's hand, and larger, up to huge tracks a foot + long and almost as wide. Many were old, but some were fresh. This + little spot smelled of bear so strongly that it reminded me of + the bear pen in the Bronx Park Zoological Garden. I had been keen + for sight of bear trails and scent of bear fur, but this was a + little too much. I thought it was too much because the place was + lonely and dark and absolutely silent. I went on down to the + gully that ran down the middle of the canyon. It was more open + here. The sun got through, and there were some big pines.</p> + + <p>I could see the bluff that the Haughts had climbed so + laboriously, and now I understood why they had been so slow. It + was straight up, brush and jumbled rock, and two hundred feet + over my head. Somewhere above that bluff was the bluff where our + bear had run along.</p> + + <p>I rested and listened for the dogs. There was no wind to + deceive me, but I imagined I heard dogs everywhere. It seemed + unwise for me to go on down the canyon, for if I did not meet the + men I would find myself lost. As it was I would have my troubles + climbing out.</p> + + <p>I chose a part of the thicket some distance above where I had + come down, hoping to find it more open, if not less steep, and + not so vastly inhabited with bears. Lo and behold it was worse! + It was thicker, darker, wilder, steeper and there was, if + possible, actually more bear sign. I had to pull myself up by + holding to the trees and branches. I had to rest every few steps. + I had to watch and listen all the time. Half-way up the trunks of + the aspens and oaks and maples were all bent down-hill. They + curved out and down before the rest of the tree stood upright. + And all the brush was flat, bending down hill, and absolutely + almost impassable. This feature of tree and brush was of course + caused by the weight of snow in winter. It would have been more + interesting if I had not been so anxious to get up. I grew hotter + and wetter than I had been in the manzanitas. Moreover, what with + the labor and worry and exhaustion, my apprehensions had + increased. They increased until I had to confess that I was + scared. Once I heard a rustle and pad on the leaves somewhere + below. That made matters worse. Surely I would meet a bear. I + would meet him coming down-hill! And I must never shoot a bear + coming down-hill! Buffalo Jones had cautioned me on that score, + so had Scott Teague, the bear hunter of Colorado, and so had + Haught. "Don't never shoot no ole bar comin' down hill, 'cause if + you do he'll just roll up an' pile down on you!"</p> + + <p>I climbed until my tongue hung out and my heart was likely to + burst. Then when I had to straddle a tree to keep from sliding + down I got desperate and mad and hoped an old grizzly would + happen along to make an end to my misery.</p> + + <p>It took me an hour to climb up that part of the slope which + constituted the thicket of oak, maple and aspen. It was half-past + three when finally I reached the saddle where we had shot at the + grizzly. I rested as long as I dared. I had still a long way to + go up that ridge to the rim, and how did I know whether or not I + could surmount it.</p> + + <p>However, a good rest helped to revive strength and spirit. + Then I started. Once above the saddle I was out clear in the + open, high above the canyons, and the vast basin still farther + below, yet far indeed under the pine-fringed rim above. This + climb was all over stone. The ridge was narrow-crested, yellow, + splintered rock, with a few dwarf pines and spruces and an + occasional bunch of manzanita. I did not hear a sound that I did + not make myself. Whatever had become of the hounds, and the other + hunters? The higher I climbed the more I liked it. After an hour + I was sure that I could reach the rim by this route, and of + course that stimulated me. To make sure, and allay doubt, I sat + down on a high backbone of bare rock and studied the heave and + bulge of ridge above me. Using my glasses I made sure that I + could climb out. It would be a task equal to those of + lion-hunting days with Jones, and it made me happy to realize + that despite the intervening ten years I was still equal to the + task.</p> + + <p>Once assured of this I grew acute to the sensations of the + hour. This was one of my especial joys of the open—to be + alone high on some promontory, above wild and beautiful scenery. + The sun was still an hour from setting, and it had begun to + soften, to grow intense, and more golden. There were clouds and + lights that promised a magnificent sunset.</p> + + <p>So I climbed on. When I stopped to rest I would shove a stone + loose and watch it heave and slide, and leap out and hurtle down, + to make the dust fly, and crash into the thickets, and eventually + start an avalanche that would roar down into the canyon.</p> + + <p>The Tonto Basin seemed a vast bowl of rolling, rough, black + ridges and canyons, green and dark and yellow, with the great + mountain ranges enclosing it to south and west. The black-fringed + promontories of the rim, bold and rugged, leagues apart, stood + out over the void. The colors of autumn gleamed under the cliffs, + everywhere patches of gold and long slants of green and spots of + scarlet and clefts of purple.</p> + + <p>The last benches of that ridge taxed my waning strength. I had + to step up, climb up, pull myself up, by hand and knee and body. + My rifle grew to weigh a ton. My cartridge belt was a burden of + lead around my waist. If I had been hot and wet below in the + thicket I wondered what I grew on the last steps of this ridge. + Yet even the toil and the pain held a keen pleasure. I did not + analyze my feelings then, but it was good to be there.</p> + + <p>The rim-rock came out to a point above me, seeming unscalable, + all grown over with brush and lichen, and stunted spruce. But by + hauling myself up, and crawling here, and winding under bridges + of rock there, and holding to the brush, at last, panting and + spent, I reached the top.</p> + + <p>I was ready to drop on the mats of pine needles and lie there, + unutterably grateful for rest, when I heard Old Tom baying, deep + and ringing and close. He seemed right under the rim on the side + of the ridge opposite to where I had climbed. I looked around. + There was George's horse tied to a pine, and farther on my own + horse Stockings.</p> + + <p>Then I walked to the rim and looked down into the gold and + scarlet thicket. Actually it seemed to me then, and always will + seem, that the first object I clearly distinguished was a big + black bear standing in an open aisle at the upper reach of the + thicket close to the cliff. He shone black as shiny coal. He was + looking down into the thicket, as if listening to the baying + hound.</p> + + <p>I could not repress an exclamation of surprise and thrilling + excitement, and I uttered it as I raised my rifle. Just the + instant I saw his shining fur through the circle of my rear sight + he heard me and jumped, and my bullet missed him. Like a black + flash he was gone around a corner of gray ledge.</p> + + <p>"Well!" I ejaculated, suddenly weak. "After all this long + day—to get a chance like that—and miss!"</p> + + <p>All that seemed left of that long day was the sunset, out of + which I could not be cheated by blunders or bad luck. Westward a + glorious golden ball blazed over the rim. Above that shone an + intense belt of color—Coleridge's yellow + lightning—and it extended to a bank of cloud that seemed + transparent purple, and above all this flowed a sea of purest + blue sky with fleecy sails of pink and white and rose, + exquisitely flecked with gold.</p> + + <p>Lost indeed was I to weariness and time until the gorgeous + transformation at last ended in dull gray. I walked along the + rim, back to where I had tied my horse. He saw me and whinnied + before I located the spot. I just about had strength enough left + to straddle him. And presently through the twilight shadows I + caught a bright glimmer of our camp-fire. Supper was ready; + Takahashi grinned his concern away; all the men were waiting for + me; and like the Ancient Mariner I told my tale. As I sat to a + bountiful repast regaling myself, the talk of my companions + seemed absolutely satisfying.</p> + + <p>George Haught, on a stand at the apex of the canyon, had heard + and seen a big brown bear climbing up through the thicket, and he + had overshot and missed. R.C. had espied a big black bear walking + a slide some four hundred yards down the canyon slope, and + forgetting that he had a heavy close-range shell in his rifle + instead of one of high trajectory, he had aimed accordingly, to + undershoot half a foot and thus lose his opportunity. Nielsen had + been lost most of the day. It seemed everywhere he heard yells + and bays down in the canyon, and once he had heard a loud + rattling crash of a heavy bear tearing through the thicket. Edd + told of the fearful climb he and his father had made, how they + had shot at the grizzly a long way off, how funny another bear + had rolled around in his bed across the canyon. But the hounds + got too tired to hold the trails late in the day. And lastly Edd + said: "When you an' Ben were smokin' the grizzly I could hear the + bullets hit close above us, an' I was sure scared stiff for fear + you'd roll him down on us. But father wasn't scared. He said, + 'let the old Jasper roll down! We'll assassinate him!'"</p> + + <p>When the old bear hunter began to tell his part in the day's + adventures my pleasure was tinglingly keen and nothing was + wanting on the moment except that my boy Romer was not there to + hear.</p> + + <p>"Wal, shore it was an old bar day," said Haught, with quaint + satisfaction. His blue shirt, ragged and torn and black from + brush, surely attested to the truth of his words. "All told we + seen five bars. Two blacks, two browns an' the old Jasper. Some + of them big fellars, too. But we missed seein' the boss bar of + this canyon. When Old Dan opened up first off I wanted Edd to + climb thet bluff. But Edd kept goin' an' we lost our chance. Fer + pretty soon we heard a bustin' of the brush. My, but thet bar was + rockin' her off. He knocked the brush like a wild steer, an' he + ran past us close—not a hundred yards. I never heard a + heavier bar. But we couldn't see him. Then Edd started up, an' + thet bluff was a wolf of a place. We was half up when I seen the + grizzly thet you an' Ben smoked afterward. He was far off, but + Edd an' I lammed a couple after him jest for luck. One of the + pups was nippin' his heels. Think it was Big Foot.... Wal, thet + was all of thet. We plumb busted ourselves gettin' on top of the + bench to head off your bar. Only we hadn't time. Then we worried + along around to the top of thet higher bluff an' there I was so + played-out I thought my day had come. We kept our eyes peeled, + an' pretty soon I spied a big brown bar actin' queer in an open + spot across the canyon. Edd seen him too, an' we argued about + what thet bar was doin'. He lay in a small open place at the foot + of a spruce. He wagged his head slow an' he made as if to roll + over, an' he stretched his paws, an' acted shore queer. Edd said: + 'Thet bar's crippled. He's been shot by one of the boys, an' he's + tryin' to get up.' But I shore didn't exactly agree with Edd. So + I was for watchin' him some more. He looked like a sick + bar—raisin' his head so slow an' droppin' it so slow an' + sort of twistin' his body. He looked like his back had been broke + an' he was tryin' to get up, but somehow I couldn't believe thet. + Then he lay still an' Edd swore he was dead. Shore I got almost + to believin' thet myself, when he waked up. An' then the old + scoundrel slid around lazy like a torn cat by the fire, and sort + of rolled on his back an' stretched. Next he slapped at himself + with his paws. If he wasn't sick he was shore actin' queer with + thet canyon full of crackin' guns an' bayin' hounds an' yellin' + men. I begun to get suspicious. Shore he must be a dyin' bear. So + I said to Edd: 'Let's bast him a couple just fer luck.' Wal, when + we shot up jumped thet sick bar quicker'n you could wink. An' he + piled into the thicket while I was goin' down after another + shell.... It shore was funny. Thet old Jasper never heard the + racket, an' if he heard it he didn't care. He had a bed in thet + sunny spot an' he was foolin' around, playin' with himself like a + kitten. Playin'! An' Edd reckoned he was dyin' an' I come shore + near bein' fooled. The old Jasper! We'll assassinate him fer + thet!"</p> + + <center> + VIII + </center> + + <p>Five more long arduous days we put in chasing bears under the + rim from Pyle's Canyon to Verde Canyon. In all we started over a + dozen bears. But I was inclined to think that we chased the same + bears over and over from one canyon to another. The boys got a + good many long-range shots, which, however, apparently did no + damage. But as for me, the harder and farther I tramped and the + longer I watched and waited the less opportunity had I to shoot a + bear.</p> + + <p>This circumstance weighed heavily upon the spirits of my + comrades. They wore their boots out, as well as the feet of the + hounds, trying to chase a bear somewhere near me. And wherever I + stayed or went there was the place the bears avoided. Edd and + Neilsen lost flesh in this daily toil. Haught had gloomy moments. + But as for me the daily ten-or fifteen-mile grind up and down the + steep craggy slopes had at last trained me back to my former + vigorous condition, and I was happy. No one knew it, not even + R.C., but the fact was I really did not care in the least whether + I shot a bear or not. Bears were incidental to my hunting trip. I + had not a little secret glee over the praise accorded me by + Copple and Haught and Nielsen, who all thought that the way I + persevered was remarkable. They would have broken their necks to + get me a bear. At times R.C. when he was tired fell victim to + discouragement and he would make some caustic remark: "I don't + know about you. I've a hunch you like to pack a rifle because + it's heavy. And you go dreaming along! Sometime a bear will rise + up and swipe you one!"</p> + + <p>Takahashi passed from concern to grief over what he considered + my bad luck: "My goodnish! No see bear to-day?... Maybe more + better luck to-morrow." If I could have had some of Takahashi's + luck I would scarcely have needed to leave camp. He borrowed + Nielsen's 30-40 rifle and went hunting without ever having shot + it. He rode the little buckskin mustang, that, remarkable to + state, had not yet thrown him or kicked him. And on that occasion + he led the mustang back to camp with a fine two-point buck on the + saddle. "Camp need fresh meat," said the Jap, with his broad + smile. "I go hunt. Ride along old road. Soon nice fat deer walk + out from bush. Twenty steps away—maybe. I get off. I no + want kill deer so close, so I walk on him. Deer he no scared. He + jump off few steps—stick up his ears—look at horse + all same like he thought him deer too. I no aim gun from + shoulder. I just shoot. No good. Deer he run. I aim + then—way front of him—shoot—deer he drop right + down dead.... Aw, easy to get deer!"</p> + + <p>I would have given a great deal to have been able to describe + Haught's face when the Jap finished his story of killing that + deer. But such feat was beyond human ingenuity. "Wal," ejaculated + the hunter, "in all my days raslin' round with fools packin' guns + I never seen the likes of thet. No wonder the Japs licked the + Russians!" This achievement of Takahashi's led me to suggest his + hunting bear with us. "Aw sure—I kill bear too," he said. + Takahashi outwalked and outclimbed us all. He never made detours. + He climbed straight up or descended straight down. Copple and Edd + were compelled to see him take the lead and keep it. What a + wonderful climber! What a picture the sturdy little brown man + made, carrying a rifle longer than himself, agile and sure-footed + as a goat, perfectly at home in the depths or on the heights! I + took occasion to ask Takahashi if he had been used to mountain + climbing in Japan. "Aw sure. I have father own whole mountain + more bigger here. I climb high—saw wood. Leetle boy so + big." And he held his hand about a foot from the ground. Thus for + me every day brought out some further interesting or humorous or + remarkable feature pertaining to Takahashi.</p> + + <p>The next day added to the discouragement of my party. We drove + Verde Canyon and ran the dogs into a nest of steel-traps. Big + Foot was caught in one, and only the remarkable size and strength + of his leg saved it from being broken. Nielsen found a poor, + miserable, little fox in a trap, where it had been for days, and + was nearly dead. Edd found a dead skunk in another. He had to + call the hounds in. We returned to camp. That night was really + the only cheerless one the men spent around the fire. They did + not know what to do. Manifestly with trappers in a locality there + could be no more bear chasing. Disappointment perched upon the + countenances of the Haughts and Copple and Nielsen. I let them + all have their say. Finally Haught spoke up: "Wal, fellars, I'm + figgerin' hard an' I reckon here's my stand. We jest naturally + have to get Doc an' his brother a bear apiece. Shore I expected + we'd get 'em a couple. Now, them traps we seen are all small. We + didn't run across no bear traps. An' I reckon we can risk the + dogs. We'll shore go back an' drive Verde Canyon. We can't do no + worse than break a leg for a dog. I'd hate to see thet happen to + Old Dan or Tom. But we'll take a chance."</p> + + <p>After that there fell a moment's silence. I could see from + Edd's face what a serious predicament this was. Nothing was + plainer than his fondness for the hounds. Finally he said: "Sure. + We'll take a chance." Their devotion to my interest, their simple + earnestness, warmed me to them. But not for all the bears under + the rim would I have been wittingly to blame for Old Dan or Old + Tom breaking a leg.</p> + + <p>"Men, I've got a better plan," I said. "We'll let the bears + here rest for a spell. Supplies are about gone. Let's go back to + Beaver Dam camp for a week or so. Rest up the hounds. Maybe we'll + have a storm and a cold snap that will improve conditions. Then + we'll come back here. I'll send Haught down to buy off the + trappers. I'll pay them to spring their traps and let us have our + hunt without risk of the hounds."</p> + + <p>Instantly the men brightened. The insurmountable obstacles + seemed to melt away. Only Haught demurred a little at additional + and unreasonable expense for me. But I cheered him over this + hindrance, and the last part of that evening round the camp-fire + was very pleasant.</p> + + <p>The following morning we broke camp, and all rode off, except + Haught and his son George, who remained to hunt a strayed burro. + "Reckon thet lion eat him. My best burro. He was the one your boy + was always playin' with. I'm goin' to assassinate thet lion."</p> + + <p>On the way back to Beaver Dam camp I happened to be near + Takahashi when he dismounted to shoot at a squirrel. Returning to + get back in the saddle the Jap forgot to approach the mustang + from the proper side. There was a scuffle between Takahashi and + the mustang as to which of them should possess the bridle. The + Jap lost this argument. Edd had to repair the broken bridle. I + watched Takahashi and could see that he did not like the mustang + any better than the mustang liked him. Soon the struggle for + supremacy would take place between this ill assorted rider and + horse. I rather felt inclined to favor the latter; nevertheless + it was only fair to Takahashi to admit that his buckskin-colored + mustang had some mean traits.</p> + + <p>In due time I arrived at our permanent camp, to be the last to + get in. Lee and his father welcomed us as familiar faces in a + strange land. As I dismounted I heard heavy thuds and cracks + accompanied by fierce utterances in a foreign tongue. These + sounds issued from the corral.</p> + + <p>"I'll bet the Jap got what was coming to him," declared + Lee.</p> + + <p>We all ran toward the corral. A bunch of horses obstructed our + view, and we could not see Takahashi until we ran round to the + other side. The Jap had the buckskin mustang up in a corner and + was vigorously whacking him with a huge pole. Not by any means + was the mustang docile. Like a mule, he kicked. "Hey George," + yelled Lee, "don't kill him! What's the matter?"</p> + + <p>Takahashi slammed the mustang one parting blow, which broke + the club, and then he turned to us. We could see from dust and + dirt on his person that he had lately been in close relation to + the earth. Takahashi's face was pale except for a great red lump + on his jaw. The Jap was terribly angry. He seemed hurt, too. With + a shaking hand he pointed to the bruise on his jaw.</p> + + <p>"Look what he do!" exclaimed Takahashi. "He throw me off!... + He kick me awful hard! I kill him sure next time."</p> + + <p>Lee and I managed to conceal our mirth until our irate cook + had gotten out of hearing. "Look—what—he—do!" + choked Lee, imitating Takahashi. Then Lee broke out and roared. I + had to join him. I laughed till I cried. My family and friends + severely criticise this primitive trait of mine, but I can not + help it. Later I went to Takahashi and asked to examine his jaw, + fearing it might have been broken. This fear of mine, however, + was unfounded. Moreover the Jap had recovered from his pain and + anger. "More better now," he said, with a grin. "Maybe my fault + anyhow."</p> + + <p>Next day we rested, and the following morning was so fine and + clear and frosty that we decided to go hunting. We rode east on + the way to See Lake through beautiful deep forest.</p> + + <p>I saw a deer trotting away into the woods. I jumped off, + jerked out my gun, and ran hard, hoping to see him in an opening. + Lo! I jumped a herd of six more deer, some of them bucks. They + plunged everywhere. I tried frantically to get my sights on one. + All I could aim at was bobbing ears. I shot twice, and of course + missed. R.C. shot four times, once at a running buck, and three + at a small deer that he said was flying!</p> + + <p>Here Copple and Haught caught up with us. We went on, and + turned off the road on the blazed trail to See Lake. It was + pretty open forest, oaks and scattered pines, and a few spruce. + The first park we came to was a flat grassy open, with places + where deer licked the bare earth. Copple left several pounds of + salt in these spots. R.C. and I went up to the upper end where he + had seen deer before. No deer this day! But saw three turkeys, + one an old gobbler. We lost sight of them.</p> + + <p>Then Copple and R.C. went one way and Haught and I another. We + went clear to the rim, and then circled around, and eventually + met R.C. and Copple. Together we started to return. Going down a + little draw we found water, and R.C. saw where a rock had been + splashed with water and was still wet. Then I saw a turkey track + upon this rock. We slipped up the slope, with me in the lead. As + I came out on top, I saw five big gobblers feeding. Strange how + these game birds thrilled me! One saw me and started to run. Like + a streak! Another edged away into pines. Then I espied one with + his head and neck behind a tree and he was scratching away in the + pine needles. I could not see much of him, but that little was + not running, so I drew down upon him, tried to aim fine, and + fired. He leaped up with a roar of wings, sending the dust and + needles flying. Then he dropped back, and like a flash darted + into a thicket.</p> + + <p>Another flew straight out of the glade. Another ran like an + ostrich in the same direction. I tried to get the sights on him. + In vain!</p> + + <p>R.C. and Copple chased these two speeding turkeys, and Haught + and I went the other way. We could find no trace of ours. And we + returned to our horses.</p> + + <p>Presently we heard shots. + One—two—three—pause—then several more. + And finally more, to a total number of fifteen. I could not stand + that and I had to hurry back into the woods. I saw one old + gobbler running wildly around as if lost, but I did not shoot at + him because he seemed to be in line with the direction which R.C. + and Copple had taken. I should have run after him until he went + some other way.</p> + + <p>I could not find the hunters, and returned to our resting + place, which they had reached ahead of me. They had a turkey + each, gobblers about two years old Copple said.</p> + + <p>R.C. told an interesting story of how he had run in the + direction the two turkeys had taken, and suddenly flushed thirty + or forty more, some big old gobblers, but mostly young. They + scattered and ran. He followed as fast as he could, shooting a + few times. Copple could not keep up with him, but evidently had a + few shots himself. R.C. chased most of the flock across several + small canyons, till he came to a deep canyon. Here he hoped to + make a killing when the turkeys ran up the far slope. But they + flew across! And he heard them clucking over there. He crossed, + and went on cautiously. Once he saw three turkey heads sticking + above a log. Wise old gobblers! They protected their bodies while + they watched for him. He tried to get sidewise to them but they + ran off. Then he followed until once more he heard clucking.</p> + + <p>Here he sat down, just beyond the edge of a canyon, and began + to call with his turkey wing. It thrilled him to hear his calls + answered on all sides. Here was a wonderful opportunity. He + realized that the turkeys were mostly young and scattered, and + frightened, and wanted to come together. He kept calling, and as + they neared him on all sides he felt something more than the zest + of hunting. Suddenly Copple began to shoot. Spang! Spang! Spang! + R.C. saw the dust fly under one turkey. He heard the bullet + glance. The next shot killed a turkey. Then R.C. yelled that he + was no turkey! Then of that scattering flock he managed to knock + over one for himself.</p> + + <p>Copple had been deceived by the call of an amateur. That + flattered R.C., but he was keenly disappointed that Copple had + spoiled the situation.</p> + + <p>During the day the blue sky was covered by thin flying clouds + that gradually thickened and darkened. The wind grew keener and + colder, and veered to the southwest. We all said storm. There was + no sunset Darker clouds rolled up, obliterating the few + stars.</p> + + <p>We went to bed. Long after that I heard the swell and roar and + crash and lull of the wind in the pines, a sound I had learned to + love in Buckskin Forest with Buffalo Jones. At last I fell + asleep.</p> + + <p>Sometime in the night I awoke. A fine rain was pattering on + the tent. It grew stronger. After a while I went to sleep again. + Upon awakening I found that the storm had struck with a + vengeance. It was dull gray daylight, foggy, cold, windy, with + rain and snow.</p> + + <p>I got up, built a fire, puttered around the tents to loosen + the ground ropes, and found that it was nipping cold. My fingers + ached. The storm increased, and then we fully appreciated the + tent with stove. The rain roared on the tent roof, and all + morning the wind increased, and the air grew colder. I hoped it + would turn to snow.</p> + + <p>Soon indeed we were storm bound. On the third day the wind + reached a very high velocity. The roar in the pines was + stupendous. Many times I heard the dull crash of a falling tree. + With the ground saturated by the copious rain, and the fury of + the storm blast, a great many trees were felled. That night it + rained all night, not so hard, but steadily, now low, now + vigorously. After morning snow began to fall. But it did not lay + long. After a while it changed to sleet. At times the dark, + lowering, scurrying clouds broke to emit a flare of sunshine and + to show a patch of blue. These last however were soon obscured by + the scudding gray pall. Every now and then a little shower of + rain or sleet pattered on the tents. We looked for a clearing + up.</p> + + <p>That night about eight o'clock the clouds vanished and stars + shone. In the night the wind rose and roared. In the morning all + was dark, cloudy, raw, cold. But the wind had died out, and there + were spots of blue showing. These spots enlarged as the morning + advanced, and about nine the sun, golden and dazzling, beautified + the forest. "Bright sunny days will soon come again!"</p> + + <p>It was good to have hope and belief in that.</p> + + <p>All the horses but Don Carlos weathered the storm in good + shape. Don lost considerable weight. He had never before been + left with hobbled feet to shift for himself in a prolonged storm + of rain, sleet and snow. He had cut himself upon brush, and + altogether had fared poorly. He showed plainly that he had been + neglected. Don was the only horse I had ever known of that did + not welcome the wilderness and companionship with his kind.</p> + + <p>We rested the following day, and on the next we packed and + started back to Dude Creek. It was a cold, raw, bitter day, with + a gale from the north, such a day as I could never have endured + had I not become hardened. As it was I almost enjoyed wind and + cold. What a transformation in the woods! The little lakes were + all frozen over; pines, moss, grass were white with frost. The + sear days had come. Not a leaf showed in the aspen and maple + thickets. The scrub oaks were shaggy and ragged, gray as the + rocks. From the rim the slopes looked steely and dark, thinned + out, showing the rocks and slides.</p> + + <p>When we reached our old camp in Barber Shop Canyon we were all + glad to see Haught's lost burro waiting for us there. Not a + scratch showed on the shaggy lop-eared little beast. Haught for + once unhobbled a burro and set it free without a parting kick. + Nielsen too had observed this omission on Haught's part. Nielsen + was a desert man and he knew burros. He said prospectors were + inclined to show affection for burros by sundry cuffs and kicks. + And Nielsen told me a story about Haught. It seemed the bear + hunter was noted for that habit of kicking burros. Sometimes he + was in fun and sometimes, when burros were obstinate, he was in + earnest. Upon one occasion a big burro stayed away from camp + quite a long time—long enough to incur Haught's + displeasure. He needed the burro and could not find it, and all + he could do was to hunt for it. Upon returning to camp there + stood the big gray burro, lazy and fat, just as if he had been + perfectly well behaved. Haught put a halter on the burro, using + strong language the while, and then he proceeded to exercise his + habit of kicking burros. He kicked this one until its fat belly + gave forth sounds exceedingly like a bass drum. When Haught had + ended his exercise he tied up the burro. Presently a man came + running into Haught's camp. He appeared alarmed. He was wet and + panting. Haught recognized him as a miner from a mine nearby. + "Hey Haught," panted the miner, "hev you seen—your gray + burro—thet big one—with white face?"</p> + + <p>"Shore, there he is," replied Haught. "Son of a gun jest + rustled home."</p> + + <p>The miner appeared immensely relieved. He looked and looked at + the gray burro as if to make sure it was there, in the solid + flesh, a really tangible object. Then he said: "We was all + afeared you'd kick the stuffin's out of him!... Not an hour ago + he was over at the mine, an' he ate five sticks of dynamite! Five + sticks! For Lord's sake handle him gently!"</p> + + <p>Haught turned pale and suddenly sat down. "Ahuh!" was all he + said. But he had a strange hunted look. And not for a long time + did he ever again kick a burro!</p> + <hr> + + <p>Hunting conditions at Dude Creek had changed greatly to our + benefit. The trappers had pulled up stakes and gone to some other + section of the country. There was not a hunting party within + fifteen miles of our camp. Leaves and acorns were all down; + trails were soft and easy to travel; no dust rose on the southern + slopes; the days were cold and bright; in every pocket and ravine + there was water for the dogs; from any stand we could see into + the shaggy thickets where before all we could see was a blaze of + color.</p> + + <p>In three days we drove Pyle's Canyon, Dude Creek, and the + small adjoining canyons, chasing in all nine bears, none of which + ran anywhere near R.C. or me. Old Dan gave out and had to rest + every other day. So the gloom again began to settle thick over + the hopes of my faithful friends. Long since, as in 1918, I had + given up expectations of bagging a bear or a buck. For R.C., + however, my hopes still held good. At least I did not give up for + him. But he shared somewhat the feelings of the men. Still he + worked harder than ever, abandoning the idea of waiting on one of + the high stands, and took to the slopes under the rim where he + toiled down and up all day long. It pleased me to learn, + presently, that this activity, strenuous as it was, became a + source of delight to him. How different such toil was from + waiting and watching on the rim!</p> + + <p>On November first, a bitter cold morning, with ice in the + bright air, we went back to Pyle's Canyon, and four of us went + down with Edd and the hounds. We had several chases, and about + the middle of the forenoon I found myself alone, making tracks + for the saddle over-looking Bear Canyon. Along the south side of + the slope, in the still air the sun was warm, but when I got up + onto the saddle, in an exposed place, the wind soon chilled me + through. I would keep my stand until I nearly froze, then I had + to go around to the sunny sheltered side and warm up. The hounds + finally got within hearing again, and eventually appeared to be + in Bear Canyon, toward the mouth. I decided I ought to go round + the ridge on the east side and see if I could hear better. + Accordingly I set off, and the hard going over the sunny slope + was just what I needed. When I reached the end of the ridge, + under the great dome, I heard the hounds below me, somewhat to my + left. Running and plowing down through the brush I gained the + edge of the bluff, just in time to see some of the hounds passing + on. They had run a bear through that thicket, and if I had been + there sooner I would have been fortunate. But too late! I worked + around the head of this canyon and across a wide promontory. + Again I heard the hounds right under me. They came nearer, and + soon I heard rolling rocks and cracking brush, which sounds I + believed were made by a bear. After a while I espied Old Tom and + Rock working up the canyon on a trail. Then I was sure I would + get a shot. Presently, however, Old Tom left the trail and + started back. Rock came on, climbed the ridge, and hearing me + call he came to me. I went over to the place where he had climbed + out and found an enormous bear track pointing in the direction + the hounds had come. They had back-trailed him. Rock went back to + join Old Tom. Some of the pack were baying at a great rate in the + mouth of the next canyon. But an impassable cliff prevented me + from working around to that point. So I had to address myself to + the long steep climb upward. I had not gone far when I crossed + the huge bear track that Rock and Old Tom had given up. This + track was six inches wide and ten inches long. The bear that had + made it had come down this very morning from over the ridge east + of Bear Canyon. I trailed him up this ridge, over the steepest + and roughest and wildest part of it, marveling at the enormous + steps and jumps he made, and at the sagacity which caused him to + choose this route instead of the saddle trail where I had waited + so long. His track led up nearly to the rim and proved how he had + climbed over the most rugged break in the ridge. Indeed he was + one of the wise old scoundrels. When I reached camp I learned + that Sue and several more of the hounds had held a bear for some + time in the box of the canyon just beyond where I had to give up. + Edd and Nielsen were across this canyon, unable to go farther, + and then yelled themselves hoarse, trying to call some of us. I + asked Edd if he saw the bear. "Sure did," replied Edd. "One of + them long, lean, hungry cinnamons." I had to laugh, and told how + near I had come to meeting a bear that was short, fat, and heavy: + "One of the old Jasper scoundrels!"</p> + + <p>That night at dark the wind still blew a gale, and seemed more + bitterly cold. We hugged the camp-fire. My eyes smarted from the + smoke and my face grew black. Before I went to bed I toasted + myself so thoroughly that my clothes actually burned me as I lay + down. But they heated the blankets and that made my bed snug and + soon I was in the land of dreams. During the night I awoke. The + wind had lulled. The canopy above was clear, cold, starry, + beautiful. When we rolled out the mercury showed ten above zero. + Perhaps looking at the thermometer made us feel colder, but in + any event we would have had to move about to keep warm. I built a + fire and my hands were blocks of ice when I got the blaze + stirring.</p> + + <p>That day, so keen and bright, so wonderful with its clarity of + atmosphere and the breath of winter through the pines, promised + to be as exciting as it was beautiful. Maybe this day R.C. would + bag a bear!</p> + + <p>When we reached the rim the sunrise was just flushing the + purple basin, flooding with exquisite gold and rose light the + slumberous shadows. What a glorious wilderness to greet the eye + at sunrise! I suffered a pang to realize what men + missed—what I had to miss so many wonderful mornings.</p> + + <p>We had made our plan. The hounds had left a bear in the second + canyon east of Dude. Edd started down. Copple and Takahashi + followed to hug the lower slopes. Nielsen and Haught and George + held to the rim to ride east in case the hounds chased a bear + that way. And R.C. and I were to try to climb out and down a thin + rock-crested ridge which, so far as Haught knew, no one had ever + been on.</p> + + <p>Looked at from above this ridge was indeed a beautiful and + rugged backbone of rock, sloping from the rim, extending far out + and down—a very narrow knife-edge extended promontory, + green with cedar and pine, yellow and gray with its crags and + rocks. A craggy point comparable to some of those in the Grand + Canyon! We had to study a way to get across the first deep + fissures, and eventually descended far under the crest and + climbed back. It was desperately hard work, for we had so little + time. R.C. was to be at the middle of that ridge and I at the end + in an hour. Like Trojans we worked. Some slippery pine-needle + slopes we had to run across, for light quick steps were the only + means of safe travel. And that was not safe! When we surmounted + to the crest we found a jumble of weathered rocks ready to slide + down on either side. Slabs, pyramids, columns, shale, rocks of + all shapes except round, lay toppling along the heaved ridge. It + seemed the whole ridge was ready to thunder down into the abyss. + Half a mile down and out from the rim we felt lost, marooned. But + there was something splendidly thrilling in our conquest of that + narrow upflung edge of mountain. Twice R.C. thought we would have + to abandon further progress, but I found ways to go on. How + lonely and wild out there! No foot save an Indian's had ever trod + those gray rocks or brown mats of pine needles.</p> + + <p>Before we reached the dip or saddle where R.C. was to make his + stand the hounds opened up far below. The morning was perfectly + still, an unusual occurrence there along the rim. What wild + music! Then Edd's horn pealed out, ringing melody, a long blast + keen and clear, telling us above that he had started a bear. That + made us hurry. We arrived at the head of an incline leading down + to R.C.'s stand. As luck would have it the place was ideal for a + bear, but risky for a hunter. A bear could come four ways without + being seen until he was close enough to kill a man. We hurried + on. At the saddle there was a broad bear trail with several other + trails leading into it. Suddenly R.C. halted me with a warning + finger. "Listen!"</p> + + <p>I heard a faint clear rifle shot. Then another, and a fainter + yell. We stood there and counted eleven more shots. Then the bay + of the hounds seemed to grow closer. We had little time to pick + and choose stands. I had yet to reach the end of the + ridge—a task requiring seven-league boots. But I took time + to choose the best possible stand for R.C. and that was one where + a bear approaching from only the east along under the ridge could + surprise him. In bad places like this we always tried to have our + minds made up what to do and where to get in case of being + charged by a wounded grizzly. In this instance there was not a + rock or a tree near at hand. "R.C. you'll have to stand your + ground and kill him, that's all," I declared, grimly. "But it's + quiet. You can hear a bear coming. If you do hear + one—wait—and make sure your first shot lets him + down."</p> + + <p>"Don't worry. I could hear a squirrel coming over this + ground," replied R.C.</p> + + <p>Then I went on, not exactly at ease in mind, but stirred and + thrilled to the keen charged atmosphere. I had to go around under + the base of a rocky ledge, over rough ground. Presently I dropped + into a bear trail, well trodden. I followed it to a corner of + cliff where it went down. Then I kept on over loose rock and bare + earth washed deep in ruts. I had to leap these. Perhaps in ten + minutes I had traveled a quarter of a mile or less. Then + <i>spang</i>! R.C.'s rifle-shot halted me. So clear and sharp, so + close, so startling! I was thrilled, delighted—he had + gotten a shot. I wanted to yell my pleasure. My blood warmed and + my nerves tingled. Swiftly my thoughts ran—bad luck was + nothing—a man had only to stick at a thing—what a + fine, sharp, wonderful day for adventure! How the hounds bayed! + Had R.C. sighted a bear somewhere below? Suddenly the still air + split—<i>spang</i>! R.C.'s second shot gave me a shock. My + breast contracted. I started back. "Suppose it was a + grizzly—on that bad side!" I muttered. <i>Spang</i>!... I + began to run. A great sweeping wave of emotion charged over me, + swelling all my veins to the bursting point. <i>Spang</i>! My + heart came to my throat. Leaping the ruts, bounding like a sheep + from rock to rock, I covered my back tracks. All inside me seemed + to flutter, yet I felt cold and hard—a sickening sense of + reproach that I had left my brother in a bad position. + <i>Spang</i>! His fifth and last shot followed swiftly after the + fourth—too swift to be accurate. So hurriedly a man would + act in close quarters. R.C. now had an empty rifle!... Like a + flash I crossed that slope leading to the rocks, and tore around + the cliff at such speed that it was a wonder I did not pitch down + and break my neck. How long—how terribly long I seemed in + reaching the corner of cliff! Then I plunged to a halt with eyes + darting everywhere.</p> + + <p>R.C. was not in sight. The steep curved neck of slope seemed + all rocks, all trees, all brush. Then I heard a wild hoarse bawl + and a loud crashing of brush. My gaze swerved to an open spot. A + patch of manzanita seemed to blur round a big bear, standing up, + fighting the branches, threshing and growling. But where was + R.C.? Fearfully my gaze peered near and all around this wounded + bear. "Hey there!" I yelled with all my might.</p> + + <p>R.C.'s answer was another <i>spang</i>. I heard the bullet hit + the bear. It must have gone clear through him for I saw bits of + fur and manzanita fly. The bear plunged out of the + bushes—out of my sight. How he crashed the + brush—rolled the rocks! I listened. Down and down he + crashed. Then the sound changed somewhat. He was rolling. At last + that thumping sound ceased, and after it the roll of rocks.</p> + + <p>"Are you—all right?" I shouted.</p> + + <p>Then, after a moment that made me breathless, I heard R.C. + laugh, a little shakily. "Sure am.... Did you see him?"</p> + + <p>"Yes. I think he's your bear."</p> + + <p>"I'm afraid he's got away. The hounds took another bear down + the canyon. What'll we do?"</p> + + <p>"Come on down," I said.</p> + + <p>Fifty yards or more down the slope we met. I showed him a + great splotch of blood on a flat stone. "We'll find him not far + down," I said. So we slid and crawled, and held to brush and + rocks, following that bloody trail until we came to a ledge. From + there I espied the bear lodged against a manzanita bush. He lay + on his back, all four paws extended, and he was motionless. R.C. + and I sat down right there on the ledge.</p> + + <p>"Looks pretty big—black and brown—mostly brown," I + said. "I'm glad, old man, you stuck it out."</p> + + <p>"Big!..." exclaimed R.C. with that same peculiar little laugh. + "He doesn't look big now. But up there he looked like a hill.... + What do you think? He came up that very way you told me to look + out for. And if I hadn't had ears he'd got right on me. As it + was, when I heard little rolling stones, and then saw him, he was + almost on a level with me. My nerve was all right. I knew I had + him. And I made sure of my first shot. I knocked him flat. But he + got up—let out an awful snarl—and plunged my way. I + can't say I know he charged me. Only it was just the same as if + he had!... I knocked him down again and this time he began to + kick and jump down the slope. That was my best shot. Think I + missed him the next three. You see I had time to get shaky. If he + had kept coming at me—good night!... I had trouble loading. + But when I got ready again I ran down and saw him in that bush. + Wasn't far from him then. When he let out that bawl he saw me. I + don't know much about bears, but I know he wanted to get at me. + And I'm sure of what he'd have done.... I didn't miss my last + shot."</p> + + <p>We sat there a while longer, slowly calming down. Wonderful + indeed had been some of the moments of thrill, but there had been + others not conducive to happiness. Why do men yearn for adventure + in wild moments and regret the risks and spilled blood + afterward?</p> + + <center> + IX + </center> + + <p>The hounds enjoyed a well-earned rest the next day. R.C. and + I, behind Haught's back, fed them all they could eat. The old + hunter had a fixed idea that dogs should be kept lean and hungry + so they would run bears the better. Perhaps he was right. Only I + could not withstand Old Dan and Old Tom as they limped to me, + begging and whining. Yet not even sore feet and hunger could rob + these grand old hounds of their dignity. For an hour that morning + I sat beside them in a sunny spot.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon Copple took me on a last deer hunt for that + trip. We rode down the canyon a mile, and climbed out on the west + slope. Haught had described this country as a "wolf" to travel. + He used that word to designate anything particularly tough. We + found the ridge covered with a dense forest, in places a matted + jungle of pine saplings. These thickets were impenetrable. Heavy + snows had bent the pines so that they grew at an angle. We found + it necessary to skirt these thickets, and at that, sometimes had + to cut our way through with our little axes. Hunting was scarcely + possible under such conditions. Still we did not see any deer + tracks.</p> + + <p>Eventually we crossed this ridge, or at least the jungle part + of it, and got lower down into hollows and swales full of aspens. + Copple recognized country he had hunted before. We made our way + up a long shallow hollow that ended in an open where lay the + remains of an old log cabin, and corrals. From under a bluff + bubbled a clear beautiful spring. Copple looked all around + slowly, with strange expression, and at last, dismounting he + knelt to drink of the spring.</p> + + <p>"Ah-h-good!" he exclaimed, after a deep draught. "Get down an' + drink. Snow water an' it never goes dry."</p> + + <p>Indeed it was so cold it made my teeth ache, and so pure and + sweet that I drank until I could hold no more. Deer and cat and + bear tracks showed along the margin of clean sand. Lower down + were fresh turkey tracks. A lonely spring in the woods visited by + wild game! This place was singularly picturesque and beautiful. + The purest drinking water is found in wild forest or on + mountains. Men, cities, civilization contaminate waters that are + not isolated.</p> + + <p>Copple told me a man named Mitchell had lived in that lonely + place thirty years ago. Copple, as a boy, had worked for + him—had ridden wild bronchos and roped wild steers in that + open, many and many a day. Something of unconscious pathos showed + in Copple's eyes as he gazed around, and in his voice. We all + hear the echoing footsteps of the past years! In those days + Copple said the ranch was overrun by wild game, and wild horses + too.</p> + + <p>We rode on westward, to come out at length on the rim of a + magnificent canyon. It was the widest and deepest and wildest + gorge I had come across in this country. So deep that only a + faint roar of running water reached our ears! The slopes were too + steep for man, let alone a horse; and the huge cliffs and giant + spruces gave it a singularly rugged appearance. We saw deer on + the opposite slope. Copple led along the edge, searching for + traces of an old trail where Mitchell used to drive cattle + across. We did not find a trail, but we found a place where + Copple said one used to be. I could see no signs of it. Here + leading his horse with one hand and wielding his little axe with + the other Copple started down. For my part I found going down + remarkably easy. The only trouble I had was to hold on, so I + would not go down like a flash. Stockings, my horse, had in a few + weeks become a splendid traveler in the forest. He had learned to + restrain his spirit and use his intelligence. Wherever I led he + would go and that without any fear. There is something fine in + constant association with an intelligent horse under such + circumstances. In bad places Stockings braced his forefeet, sat + on his haunches, and slid, sometimes making me jump to get out of + his way. We found the canyon bed a narrow notch, darkly rich and + green, full of the melody of wild birds and murmuring brook, with + huge rocks all stained gold and russet, and grass as high as our + knees. Frost still lingered in the dark, cool, shady retreat; and + where the sun struck a narrow strip of the gorge there was warm, + sweet, dry breath of the forest. But for the most part, down here + all was damp, dank, cool shadow where sunshine never reached, and + where the smells were of dead leaves and wet moss and ferns and + black rich earth.</p> + + <p>Impossible we found it to ascend the other slope where we had + seen the deer, so we had to ride up the canyon, a matter greatly + to my liking. Copple thought I was hunting with him, but really, + except to follow him, I did not think of the meaning of his slow + wary advance. Only a few more days had I to roam the pine-scented + forest. That ride up this deep gorge was rich in sensation. Sun + and sky and breeze and forest encompassed me. The wilderness was + all about me; and I regretted when the canyon lost its splendid + ruggedness, and became like the others I had traversed, and at + last grew to be a shallow grassy ravine, with patches of gray + aspens along the tiny brook.</p> + + <p>As we climbed out once more, this time into an open, beautiful + pine forest, with little patches of green thicket, I seemed to + have been drugged by the fragrance and the color and the beauty + of the wild. For when Copple called low and sharp: "Hist!" I + stared uncomprehendingly at him.</p> + + <p>"Deer!" he whispered, pointing. "Get off an' smoke 'em + up!"</p> + + <p>Something shot through me—a different kind of thrill. + Ahead in the open I saw gray, graceful, wild forms trotting away. + Like a flash I slid off my horse and jerked out my rifle. I ran + forward a few steps. The deer had halted—were gazing at us + with heads up and ears high. What a wild beautiful picture! As I + raised my rifle they seemed to move and vanish in the green. The + hunter in me, roused at last, anathematized my miserable luck. I + ran ahead another few steps, to be halted by Copple. "Buck!" he + called, sharply. "Hurry!" Then, farther on in the open, out in + the sunlight, I saw a noble stag, moving, trotting toward us. + Keen, hard, fierce in my intensity, I aligned the sights upon his + breast and fired. Straight forward and high he bounded, to fall + with a heavy thud.</p> + + <p>Copple's horse, startled by my shot, began to snort and + plunge. "Good shot," yelled Copple. "He's our meat."</p> + + <p>What possessed me I knew not, but I ran ahead of Copple. My + eyes searched avidly the bush-dotted ground for my quarry. The + rifle felt hot in my tight grip. All inside me was a + tumult—eager, keen, wild excitement. The great pines, the + green aisles leading away into the woods, the shadows under the + thickets, the pine-pitch tang of the air, the loneliness of that + lonely forest—all these seemed familiar, sweet, beautiful, + things mine alone, things seen and smelled and felt before, + things ... Then suddenly I ran right upon my deer, lying + motionless, dead I thought. He appeared fairly large, with + three-point antlers. I heard Copple's horse thudding the soft + earth behind me, and I yelled: "I got him, Ben." That was a + moment of exultation.</p> + + <p>It ended suddenly. Something halted me. My buck, now scarcely + fifteen feet from me, began to shake and struggle. He raised his + head, uttering a choking gasp. I heard the flutter of blood in + his throat. He raised himself on his front feet and lifted his + head high, higher, until his nose pointed skyward and his antlers + lay back upon his shoulders. Then a strong convulsion shook him. + I heard the shuddering wrestle of his whole body. I heard the + gurgle and flow of blood. Saw the smoke of fresh blood and + smelled it! I saw a small red spot in his gray breast where my + bullet had struck. I saw a great bloody gaping hole on his rump + where the.30 Gov't expanding bullet had come out. From end to end + that bullet had torn! Yet he was not dead. Straining to rise + again!</p> + + <p>I saw, felt all this in one flashing instant. And as swiftly + my spirit changed. What I might have done I never knew, but most + likely I would have shot him through the brain. Only a sudden + action of the stag paralyzed all my force. He lowered his head. + He saw me. And dying, with lungs and heart and bowels shot to + shreds, he edged his stiff front feet toward me, he dragged his + afterquarters, he slid, he flopped, he skittered convulsively at + me. No fear in the black, distended, wild eyes!</p> + + <p>Only hate, only terrible, wild, unquenchable spirit to live + long enough to kill me! I saw it, He meant to kill me. How + magnificent, how horrible this wild courage! My eyes seemed + riveted upon him, as he came closer, closer. He gasped. Blood + sputtered from his throat. But more terrible than agony, than + imminent death was the spirit of this wild beast to slay its + enemy. Inch by inch he skidded closer to me, with a convulsive + quivering awful to see. No veil of the past, no scale of + civilization between beast and man then! Enemies as old as the + earth! I had shot him to eat, and he would kill me before he + died. For me the moment was monstrous. No hunter was I then, but + a man stricken by the spirit and mystery of life, by the agony + and terror of death, by the awful strange sense that this stag + would kill me.</p> + + <p>But Copple galloped up, and drawing his revolver, he shot the + deer through the head. It fell in a heap.</p> + + <p>"Don't ever go close to a crippled deer," admonished my + comrade, as he leaped off his horse. "I saw a fellow once that + was near killed by a buck he'd taken for dead.... Strange the way + this buck half stood up. Reckon he meant bad, but he was all in. + You hit him plumb center."</p> + + <p>"Yes, Ben, it was—strange," I replied, soberly. I caught + Copple's keen dark glance studying me. "When you open him + up—see what my bullet did, will you?"</p> + + <p>"All right. Help me hang him to a snag here," returned Copple, + as he untied his lasso.</p> + + <p>When we got the deer strung up I went off into the woods, and + sat on a log, and contended with a queer sort of sickness until + it passed away. But it left a state of mind that I knew would + require me to probe into myself, and try to understand once and + for all time this bloodthirsy tendency of man to kill. It would + force me to try to analyze the psychology of hunting. Upon my + return to Copple I found he had the buck ready to load upon his + horse. His hands were bright red. He was wiping his hunting-knife + on a bunch of green pine needles.</p> + + <p>"That 150-grain soft-nose bullet is some executioner," he + declared, forcefully. "Your bullet mushroomed just after it went + into his breast. It tore his lung to pieces, cut open his heart, + made a mess of kidneys an' paunch, an' broke his spine.... An' + look at this hole where it came out!"</p> + + <p>I helped Copple heave the load on his saddle and tie it + securely, and I got my hands red at the job, but I did not really + look at the buck again. And upon our way back to camp I rode in + the lead all the way. We reached camp before sunset, where I had + to endure the felicitations of R.C. and my comrades, all of whom + were delighted that at last I had gotten a buck. Takahashi smiled + all over his broad brown face. "My goodnish! I awful glad! Nice + fat deer!"</p> + + <p>That night I lay awake a long time, and though aware of the + moan of the wind in the pines and the tinkle of the brook, and + the melancholy hoot of an owl, and later the still, sad, black + silence of the midnight hours, I really had no pleasure in them. + My mind was active.</p> + + <p>Boys are inherently cruel. The games they play, at least those + they invent, instinctively partake of some element of brute + nature. They chase, they capture, they imprison, they torture, + and they kill. No secret rendezvous of a boy's pirate gang ever + failed to be soaked with imaginary blood! And what group of boys + have not played at being pirates? The Indian games are + worse—scalping, with red-hot cinders thrown upon the + bleeding head, and the terrible running of the gauntlet, and + burning at the stake.</p> + + <p>What youngster has not made wooden knives to spill the blood + of his pretended enemies? Little girls play with dolls, and with + toy houses, and all the implements of making a home; but sweet + and dear as the little angels are they love a boy's game, and if + they can through some lucky accident participate in one it is to + scream and shudder and fight, indeed like the females of the + species. No break here between these little mothers of + doll-babies and the bloody mothers of the French Revolution, or + of dusky, naked, barbarian children of a primitive day!</p> + + <p>Boys love the chase. And that chase depends upon environment. + For want of wild game they will harry a poor miserable tom-cat + with sticks and stones. I belonged once to a gang of young + ruffians who chased the neighbor's chickens, killed them with + clubs, and cooked them in tin cans, over a hidden fire. Boys love + nothing so much as to chase a squirrel or a frightened little + chipmunk back and forth along a rail fence. They brandish their + sticks, run and yell, dart to and fro, like young Indians. They + rob bird's nests, steal the eggs, pierce them and blow them. They + capture the young birds, and are not above killing the parents + that fly frantically to the rescue. I knew of boys who ground + captured birds to death on a grindstone. Who has not seen a boy + fling stones at a helpless hop-toad?</p> + + <p>As boys grow older to the age of reading they select, or at + least love best, those stories of bloodshed and violence. + Stevenson wrote that boys read for some element of the brute + instinct in them. His two wonderful books <i>Treasure Island</i> + and <i>Kidnapped</i> are full of fight and the killing of men. + <i>Robinson Crusoe</i> is the only great boy's book I ever read + that did not owe its charm to fighting. But still did not old + Crusoe fight to live on his lonely island? And this wonderful + tale is full of hunting, and has at the end the battle with + cannibals.</p> + + <p>When lads grow up they become hunters, almost without + exception, at least in spirit if not in deed. Early days and + environment decide whether or not a man becomes a hunter. In all + my life I have met only two grown men who did not care to go + prowling and hunting in the woods with a gun. An exception proves + a great deal, but all the same most men, whether they have a + chance or not, love to hunt. Hunters, therefore, there are of + many degrees. Hunters of the lowly cotton-tail and the woodland + squirrel; hunters of quail, woodcock, and grouse; hunters of wild + ducks and geese; hunters of foxes—the red-coated English + and the homespun clad American; hunters—which is a kinder + name for trappers—of beaver, marten, otter, mink, all the + furred animals; hunters of deer, cat, wolf, bear, antelope, elk, + moose, caribou; hunters of the barren lands where the ice is king + and where there are polar bears, white foxes, musk-ox, walrus. + Hunters of different animals of different countries. African + hunters for lion, rhinoceros, elephant, buffalo, eland, + hartebeest, giraffe, and a hundred species made known to all the + world by such classical sportsmen as Selous, Roosevelt, Stewart + Edward White.</p> + + <p>But they are all hunters and their game is the deadly chase in + the open or the wild. There are hunters who hate action, who hate + to walk and climb and toil and wear themselves out to get a shot. + Such men are hunters still, but still not men! There are hunters + who have game driven up to them. I heard a story told by an + officer whom I believe. In the early days of the war he found + himself somewhere on the border between Austria and Germany. He + was invited to a hunt by personages of high degree. They motored + to a sequestered palace in the forest, and next day motored to a + shooting-lodge. At daylight he was called, and taken to the edge + of a forest and stationed in an open glade. His stand was an + upholstered divan placed high in the forks of a tree. His guide + told him that pretty soon a doe would come out of the forest. But + he was not to shoot it. In fifteen minutes a lame buck would come + out. But he was not to shoot that one either. In ten more minutes + another buck would come out, and this third deer he was to kill. + My informant told me this was all very seriously meant. The gun + given him was large enough in calibre to kill an elephant. He + walked up the steps to the comfortable divan and settled himself + to await events. The doe trotted out exactly on schedule time. So + did the lame buck. They came from the woods and were not + frightened. The third deer, a large buck, was a few moments + late—three minutes to be exact. According to instructions + the American killed this buck—a matter that took some nerve + he said, for the buck walked out like a cow. That night a big + supper was given in the guest's honor. He had to eat certain + parts of the buck he had killed, and drink flagons of wine. This + kind of hunting must be peculiarly German or Austrian, and + illustrates the peculiar hunting ways of men.</p> + + <p>A celebrated bear hunter and guide of the northwest told me + that for twenty years he had been taking eastern + ministers—preachers of the gospel—on hunting trips + into the wild. He assured me that of all the bloody + murderers—waders in gore, as he expressed it—these + teachers of the gospel were the worst. The moment they got out + into the wild they wanted to kill, kill, kill. He averred their + natures seemed utterly to change.</p> + + <p>In reading the books of hunters and in listening to their + talks at Camp-fire Club dinners I have always been struck with + the expression of what these hunters felt, what they thought they + got out of hunting. The change from city to the open wilderness; + the difference between noise, tumult, dirt, foul air, and the + silence, the quiet, the cleanness and purity; the sweet breath of + God's country as so many called it; the beauty of forest and + mountain; the wildness of ridge and valley; the wonder of wild + animals in their native haunts; and the zest, the joy, the + excitement, the magnificent thrill of the stalk and the chase. No + one of them ever dwelt upon the kill! It was mentioned, as a + result, an end, a consummation. How strange that hunters believed + these were the attractions of the chase! They felt them, to be + sure, in some degree, or they would not remember them. But they + never realized that these sensations were only incidental to + hunting.</p> + + <p>Men take long rides, hundreds and thousands of miles, to hunt. + They endure hardships, live in camps with absolute joy. They + stalk through the forest, climb the craggy peaks, labor as giants + in the building of the pyramids, all with a tight clutch on a + deadly rifle. They are keen, intent, strained, quiveringly eager + all with a tight clutch on a deadly rifle. If hunters think while + on a stalk—which matter I doubt considerably—they + think about the lay of the land, or the aspect of it, of the + habits and possibilities of their quarry, of their labor and + chances, and particularly of the vague unrealized sense of + comfort, pleasure, satisfaction in the moment. Tight muscles, + alert eyes, stealthy steps, stalk and run and crawl and climb, + breathlessness, a hot close-pressed chest, thrill on thrill, and + sheer bursting riot of nerve and vein—these are the + ordinary sensations and actions of a hunter. No ascent too + lofty—no descent too perilous for him then, if he is a man + as well as a hunter!</p> + + <p>Take the Brazilian hunter of the jungle. He is solitary. He is + sufficient to himself. He is a survival of the fittest. The + number of his tribe are few. Nature sees to that. But he must + eat, and therefore he hunts. He spears fish and he kills birds + and beasts with a blow-gun. He hunts to live. But the manner of + his action, though more skilful, is the same as any hunter's. + Likewise his sensations, perhaps more vivid because hunting for + him is a matter of life or death. Take the Gaucho of + Patagonia—the silent lonely Indian hunter of the Pampas. He + hunts with a <i>bola</i>, a thin thong or string at each end of + which is a heavy leather-covered ball of stone or iron. This the + Gaucho hurls through the air at the neck or legs of his quarry. + The balls fly round—the thong binds tight—it is a + deadly weapon. The user of it rides and stalks and sees and + throws and feels the same as any other hunter. Time and place, + weapon and game have little to do with any differences in + hunters.</p> + + <p>Up to this 1919 hunting trip in the wilds I had always + marveled at the fact that naturalists and biologists hate + sportsmen. Not hunters like the Yellow Knife Indians, or the + snake-eating Bushmen of Australia, or the Terra-del-Fuegians, or + even the native country rabbit-hunters—but the so-called + sportsmen. Naturalists and biologists have simply learned the + truth why men hunt, and that when it is done in the name of + sport, or for sensation, it is a degenerate business. Stevenson + wrote beautiful words about "the hunter home from the hill," but + so far as I can find out he never killed anything himself. He was + concerned with the romance of the thought, with alliteration, and + the singular charm of the truth—sunset and the end of the + day, the hunter's plod down the hill to the cottage, to the home + where wife and children awaited him. Indeed it is a beautiful + truth, and not altogether in the past, for there are still + farmers and pioneers.</p> + + <p>Hunting is a savage primordial instinct inherited from our + ancestors. It goes back through all the ages of man, and farther + still—to the age when man was not man, but hairy ape, or + some other beast from which we are descended. To kill is in the + very marrow of our bones. If man after he developed into human + state had taken to vegetable diet—which he never did + take—he yet would have inherited the flesh-eating instincts + of his animal forebears. And no instinct is ever wholly + eradicated. But man was a meat eater. By brute strength, by + sagacity, by endurance he killed in order to get the means of + subsistence. If he did not kill he starved. And it is a matter of + record, even down to modern times, that man has existed by + cannibalism.</p> + + <p>The cave-man stalked from his hole under a cliff, boldly forth + with his huge club or stone mace. Perhaps he stole his neighbor's + woman, but if so he had more reason to hunt than before—he + had to feed her as well as himself. This cave-man, savagely + descended, savagely surrounded, must have had to hunt all the + daylight hours and surely had to fight to kill his food, or to + keep it after he killed it. Long, long ages was the being called + cave-man in developing; more long ages he lived on the earth, in + that dim dark mystic past; and just as long were his descendants + growing into another and higher type of barbarian. But they and + their children and grandchildren, and all their successive, + innumerable, and varying descendants had to hunt meat and eat + meat to live.</p> + + <p>The brain of barbarian man was small, as shown by the size and + shape of his skull, but there is no reason to believe its + construction and use were any different from the use of other + organs—the eye to see with—the ear to hear + with—the palate to taste with. Whatever the brain of + primitive man was it held at birth unlimited and innumerable + instincts like those of its progenitors; and round and smooth in + babyhood, as it was, it surely gathered its sensations, one after + another in separate and habitual channels, until when manhood + arrived it had its convolutions, its folds and wrinkles. And if + instinct and tendency were born in the brain how truly must they + be a part of bone, tissue, blood.</p> + + <p>We cannot escape our inheritance. Civilization is merely a + veneer, a thin-skinned polish over the savage and crude nature. + Fear, anger, lust, the three great primal instincts are + restrained, but they live powerfully in the breast of man. Self + preservation is the first law of human life, and is included in + fear. Fear of death is the first instinct. Then if for thousands, + perhaps millions of years, man had to hunt because of his fear of + death, had to kill meat to survive—consider the + ineradicable and permanent nature of the instinct.</p> + + <p>The secret now of the instinctive joy and thrill and wildness + of the chase lies clear.</p> + + <p>Stealing through the forest or along the mountain slope, eyes + roving, ears sensitive to all vibrations of the air, nose as keen + as that of a hound, hands tight on a deadly rifle, we + unconsciously go back. We go back to the primitive, to the savage + state of man. Therein lies the joy. How sweet, vague, unreal + those sensations of strange familiarity with wild places we know + we never saw before! But a million years before that hour a hairy + ancestor of ours felt the same way in the same kind of a place, + and in us that instinct survives. That is the secret of the + wonderful strange charm of wild places, of the barren rocks of + the desert wilderness, of the great-walled lonely canyons. + Something now in our blood, in our bones once danced in men who + lived then in similar places. And lived by hunting!</p> + + <p>The child is father to the man. In the light of this instinct + how easy to understand his boyish cruelty. He is true to nature. + Unlimited and infinite in his imagination when he + hunts—whether with his toys or with real weapons. If he + flings a stone and kills a toad he is instinctively killing meat + for his home in the cave. How little difference between the lad + and the man! For a man the most poignantly exciting, the most + thrillingly wild is the chase when he is weaponless, when he runs + and kills his quarry with a club. Here we have the essence of the + matter. The hunter is proudest of his achievement in which he has + not had the help of deadly weapons. Unconsciously he will brag + and glow over that conquest wherein lay greatest peril to + him—when he had nothing but his naked hands. What a hot + gush of blood bursts over him! He goes back to his barbarian + state when a man only felt. The savage lived in his sensations. + He saw, heard, smelled, tasted, touched, but seldom thought. The + earthy, the elemental of eye and ear and skin surrounded him. + When the man goes into the wilderness to change into a hunter + that surviving kinship with the savage revives in his being, and + all unconsciously dominates him with driving passion. Passion it + is because for long he has been restrained in the public haunts + of men. His real nature has been hidden. The hunting of game + inhibits his thoughts. He feels only. He forgets himself. He sees + the track, he hears the stealthy step, he smells the wild scent; + and his blood dances with the dance of the ages. Then he is a + killer. Then the ages roll back. Then he is brother to the + savage. Then all unconsciously he lives the chase, the fight, the + death-dealing moment as they were lived by all his ancestors down + through the misty past.</p> + + <p>What then should be the attitude of a thoughtful man toward + this liberation of an instinct—that is to say, toward the + game or sport or habit of hunting to kill? Not easily could I + decide this for myself. After all life is a battle. Eternally we + are compelled to fight. If we do not fight, if we do not keep our + bodies strong, supple, healthy, soon we succumb to some germ or + other that gets a hold in our blood or lungs and fights for its + life, its species, until it kills us. Fight therefore is + absolutely necessary to long life, and Alas! eventually that + fight must be lost. The savages, the Babylonians, the Persians, + the Greeks all worshipped physical prowess in man. Manhood, + strength—the symbols of fight! To be physically strong and + well a man must work hard, with frequent intervals of change of + exercise, and he must eat meat. I am not a great meat eater, but + I doubt if I could do much physical labor or any brain work on a + vegetable diet. Therefore I hold it fair and manly to go once a + year to the wilderness to hunt. Let that hunt be clean hard toil, + as hard as I can stand! Perhaps nature created the lower animals + for the use of man. If I had been the creator I think I would + have made it possible for the so-called higher animal man to live + on air.</p> + + <p>Somewhere I read a strange remarkable story about monkeys and + priests in the jungle of India. An old order of priests had from + time out of mind sent two of their comrades into the jungle to + live with the monkeys, to tame them, feed them, study them, love + them. And these priests told an incredible story, yet one that + haunted with its possibilities of truth. After a long term of + years in which one certain priest had lived with the monkeys and + they had learned truly he meant them no harm and only loved them, + at rare moments an old monkey would come to him and weep and weep + in the most terrible and tragic manner. This monkey wanted to + tell something, but could not speak. But the priest knew that the + monkey was trying to tell him how once the monkey people had been + human like him. Only they had retrograded in the strange scale of + evolution. And the terrible weeping was for loss—loss of + physical stature, of speech, perhaps of soul.</p> + + <p>What a profound and stunning idea! Does evolution work + backward? Could nature in its relentless inscrutable design for + the unattainable perfection have developed man only to start him + backward toward the dim ages whence he sprang? Who knows! But + every man can love wild animals. Every man can study and try to + understand the intelligence of his horse, the loyalty of his dog. + And every hunter can hunt less with his instinct, and more with + an understanding of his needs, and a consideration for the beasts + only the creator knows.</p> + + <center> + X + </center> + + <p>The last day of everything always comes. Time, like the tide, + waits for no man. Anticipation is beautiful, but it is best and + happiest to enjoy the present. Live while we may!</p> + + <p>On this last day of my hunt we were up almost before it was + light enough to see. The morning star shone radiant in the dark + gray sky. All the other stars seemed dimmed by its glory. Silent + as a grave was the forest. I started a fire, chopped wood so + vigorously that I awakened Nielsen who came forth like a burly + cave-man; and I washed hands and face in the icy cold brook. By + the time breakfast was over the gold of the rising sun was + tipping the highest pines on the ridges.</p> + + <p>We started on foot, leaving the horses hobbled near camp. All + the hounds appeared fit. Even Old Dan trotted along friskily. + Pyle, a neighbor of Haught's, had come to take a hunt with us, + bringing two dogs with him. For this last day I had formulated a + plan. Edd and one of the boys were to take the hounds down on the + east side of the great ridge that made the eastern wall of Dude + Canyon. R.C. was to climb out on this ridge, and take his + position at the most advantageous point. We had already chased + half a dozen bears over this saddle, one of which was the big + frosty-coated grizzly that Edd and Nielsen had shot at. The rest + of us hurried to the head of Dude Canyon. Copple and I were to go + down to the first promontories under the rim. The others were to + await developments and go where Haught thought best to send + them.</p> + + <p>Copple and I started down over and around the crags, going + carefully until we reached the open slope under the rim-rock. It + seemed this morning that I was fresh, eager, agile like a goat on + my feet. In my consciousness of this I boasted to Copple that I + would dislodge fewer stones and so make less noise than he. The + canyon sloped at an angle of about forty-five degrees, and we + slid, stepped, jumped and ran down without starting an + avalanche.</p> + + <p>When we descended to the first bare cape of projecting rock + the hour was the earliest in which I had been down under the rim. + All the canyon and the great green gulf below were unusually + fresh and beautiful. I heard the lonely call of strange birds and + the low murmur of running water. An eagle soared in the sunlight. + High above us to the east rose the magnificent slope of Dude + Canyon. I gazed up to the black and green and silver ascent, up + to the gold-tipped craggy crest where R.C. had his stand. I knew + he could see me, but I could not see him. Afterward he told me + that my red cap shone clearly out of green and gray, so he had no + difficulty in keeping track of my whereabouts. The thickets of + aspens and oaks seemed now to stand on end. How dark in the shade + and steely and cold they looked! That giant ridge still + obstructed the sun, and all on this side of it, under its + frowning crest and slope was dark and fresh and cool in shadow. + The ravines were choked black with spruce trees. Here along this + gray shady slant of wall, in niches and cracks, and under ledges, + and on benches, were the beds of the bears. Even as I gazed + momentarily I expected to see a bear. It looked two hundred yards + across the canyon from where we stood, but Copple declared it was + a thousand. On our other side capes and benches and groves were + bright in sunshine, clear across the rough breaks to the west + wall of Dude Canyon. I saw a flock of wild pigeons below. Way out + and beyond rolled the floor of the basin, green and vast, like a + ridged sea of pines, to the bold black Mazatzals so hauntingly + beckoning from the distance. Copple spoke now and then, but I + wanted to be silent. How wild and wonderful this place in the + early morning!</p> + + <p>But I had not long to meditate and revel in beauty and + wildness. Far down across the mouth of the canyon, at the extreme + southern end of that vast oak thicket, the hounds gave tongue. + Old Dan first! In the still cool air how his great wolf-bay rang + out the wildness of the time and place! Already Edd and Pyle had + rounded the end of the east ridge and were coming up along the + slope of Dude Canyon.</p> + + <p>"Hounds workin' round," declared Copple. "Now I'll tell you + what. Last night a bear was feedin' along that end of the + thicket. The hounds are millin' round tryin' to straighten out + his trail.... It's a dead cinch they'll jump a bear an' we'll see + him."</p> + + <p>"Look everywhere!" I cautioned Copple, and my eyes roved and + strained over all that vast slope. Suddenly I espied the flash of + something black, far down the thicket, and tried to show it to my + comrade.</p> + + <p>"Let's go around an' down to that lower point of rock. It's a + better stand than this. Closer to the thicket an' commands + those.... By Golly, I see what you see! That's a bear, slippin' + down. Stay with me now!"</p> + + <p>Staying with Copple was a matter of utter disregard of + clothes, limbs, life. He plunged off that bare ledge, slid flat + on his back, and wormed feet first under manzanita, and gaining + open slope got up to run and jump into another thicket. By + staying with him I saw that I would have a way opened through the + brush, and something to fall upon if I fell. He rimmed the edge + of a deep gorge that made me dizzy. He leaped cracks. He let + himself down over a ledge by holding to bushes. He found steps to + descend little bluffs, and he flew across the open slides of + weathered rock. I was afraid this short cut to the lower + projecting cape of rock would end suddenly on some impassable + break or cliff, but though the travel grew rough we still kept + on. I wore only boots, trousers, and shirt, and cap, with + cartridge belt strapped tight around me. It was a wonder I was + not stripped. Some of my rags went to decorate the wake we left + down that succession of ledges. But we made it, with me at least, + bruised and ragged, dusty and choked, and absolutely breathless. + My body burned as with fire. Hot sweat ran in streams down my + chest. At last we reached the bare flat projecting cape of rock, + and indeed it afforded an exceedingly favorable outlook. I had to + sink down on the rock; I could not talk until I got my breath; + but I used my eyes to every advantage. Neither Copple nor I could + locate the black moving object we had seen from above. We were + much closer to the hounds, though they still were baying a + tangled cross trail. Fortunate it was for me that I was given + these few moments to rest from my tremendous exertions.</p> + + <p>My eyes searched the leaf-covered slope so brown and sear, and + the shaggy thickets, and tried to pierce the black tangle of + spruce patches. All at once, magically it seemed, my gaze held to + a dark shadow, a bit of dense shade, under a large spruce tree. + Something moved. Then a big bear rose right out of his bed of + leaves, majestically as if disturbed, and turned his head back + toward the direction of the baying hounds. Next he walked out. He + stopped. I was quivering with eagerness to tell Copple, but I + waited. Then the bear walked behind a tree and peeped out, only + his head showing. After a moment again he walked out.</p> + + <p>"Ben, aren't you ever going to see him?" I cried at last.</p> + + <p>"What?" ejaculated Copple, in surprise.</p> + + <p>"Bear!" and I pointed. "This side of dead spruce."</p> + + <p>"No!... Reckon you see a stump.... By Golly! I see him. He's a + dandy. Reddish color.... Doc, he's one of them mean old + cinnamons."</p> + + <p>"Watch! What will he do?—Ben, he hears the hounds."</p> + + <p>How singularly thrilling to see him, how slowly he walked, how + devoid of fear, how stately!</p> + + <p>"Sure he hears them. See him look back. The son-of-a-gun! I'll + bet he's given us the bear-laugh more than once."</p> + + <p>"Ben, how far away is he?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"Oh, that's eight hundred yards," declared Copple. "A long + shot. Let's wait. He may work down closer. But most likely he'll + run up-hill."</p> + + <p>"If he climbs he'll go right to R.C.'s stand," I said, gazing + upward.</p> + + <p>"Sure will. There's no other saddle."</p> + + <p>Then I decided that I would not shoot at him unless he started + down. My excitement was difficult to control. I found it + impossible to attend to my sensations, to think about what I was + feeling. But the moment was full of suspense. The bear went into + a small clump of spruces and stayed there a little while. + Tantalizing moments! The hounds were hot upon his trail, still + working to and fro in the oak thicket. I judged scarcely a mile + separated them from the bear. Again he disappeared behind a + little bush. Remembering that five pairs of sharp eyes could see + me from the points above I stood up and waved my red cap. I waved + it wildly as a man waves a red flag in moments of danger. + Afterward R.C. said he saw me plainly and understood my action. + Again the bear had showed, this time on an open slide, where he + had halted. He was looking across the canyon while I waved my + cap.</p> + + <p>"Ben, could he see us so far?" I asked.</p> + + <p>"By Golly, I'll bet he does see us. You get to smokin' him up. + An' if you hit him don't be nervous if he starts for us. + Cinnamons are bad customers. Lay out five extra shells an' make + up your mind to kill him."</p> + + <p>I dropped upon one knee. The bear started down, coming towards + us over an open slide. "Aim a little coarse an' follow him," said + Copple. I did so, and tightening all my muscles into a ball, + holding my breath, I fired. The bear gave a savage kick + backwards. He jerked back to bite at his haunch. A growl, low, + angry, vicious followed the echoes of my rifle. Then it seemed he + pointed his head toward us and began to run down the slope, + looking our way all the time.</p> + + <p>"By Golly!" yelled Copple. "You stung him one an' he's + comin'!... Now you've got to shoot some. He can roll down-hill + an' run up-hill like a jack rabbit. Take your time—wait for + open shots—an' make sure!"</p> + + <p>Copple's advice brought home to me what could happen even with + the advantage on my side. Also it brought the cold tight prickle + to my skin, the shudder that was not a thrill, the pressure of + blood running too swiftly, I did not feel myself shake, but the + rifle was unsteady. I rested an elbow on my knee, yet still I had + difficulty in keeping the sight on him. I could get it on him, + but could not keep it there. Again he came out into the open, at + the head of a yellow slide, that reached to a thicket below. I + must not hurry, yet I had to hurry. After all he had not so far + to come and most of the distance was under cover. Through my mind + flashed Haught's story of a cinnamon that kept coming with ten + bullets in him.</p> + + <p>"Doc, he's paddin' along!" warned Copple. "Smoke some of them + shells!"</p> + + <p>Straining every nerve I aimed as before, only a little in + advance, held tight and pulled at the same instant. The bear + doubled up in a ball and began to roll down the slide. He + scattered the leaves. Then into the thicket he crashed, knocking + the oaks, and cracking the brush.</p> + + <p>"Some shot!" yelled Copple. "He's your bear!"</p> + + <p>But my bear continued to crash through the brush. I shot again + and yet again, missing both times. Apparently he was coming, + faster now—and then he showed dark almost at the foot of + our slope. Trees were thick there. I could not see there, and I + could not look for bear and reload at the same moment. My fingers + were not very nimble.</p> + + <p>"Don't shoot," shouted Copple. "He's your bear. I never make + any mistakes when I see game hit."</p> + + <p>"But I see him coming!"</p> + + <p>"Where?... By Golly! that's another bear. He's black. Yours is + red.... Look sharp. Next time he shows smoke him!"</p> + + <p>I saw a flash of black across an open space—I heard a + scattering of gravel. But I had no chance to shoot. Then both of + us heard a bear running in thick leaves.</p> + + <p>"He's gone down the canyon," said Copple. "Now look for your + bear."</p> + + <p>"Listen Ben. The hounds are coming fast. There's + Rock.—There's Sue."</p> + + <p>"I see them. Old Dan—what do you think of that old + dog?... There!—your red bear's still comin' ... He's bad + hurt."</p> + + <p>Though Copple tried hard to show me where, and I strained my + eyes, I could not see the bear. I could not locate the threshing + of brush. I knew it seemed close enough for me to be glad I was + not down in that thicket. How the hounds made the welkin ring! + Rock was in the lead. Sue was next. And Old Dan must have found + the speed of his best days. Strange he did not bay all down that + slope! When Rock and Sue headed the bear then I saw him. He sat + up on his haunches ready to fight, but they did not attack him. + Instead they began to yelp wildly. I dared not shoot again for + fear of hitting one of them. Old Dan just beat the rest of the + pack to the bear. Up pealed a yelping chorus. I had never heard + Old Dan bay a bear at close range. With deep, hoarse, quick, wild + roars he dominated that medley. A box canyon took up the bays, + cracking them back in echo from wall to wall.</p> + + <p>From the saddle of the great ridge above pealed down R.C.'s: + "Waahoo!"</p> + + <p>I saw him silhouetted dark against the sky line. He waved and + I answered. Then he disappeared.</p> + + <p>Nielsen bellowed from the craggy cape above and behind us. + From down the canyon Edd sent up his piercing: "Ki Yi!" Then + Takahashi appeared opposite to us, like a goat on a promontory. + How his: "Banzai!" rang above the baying of the hounds!</p> + + <p>"We'd better hurry down an' across," said Copple. "Reckon the + hounds will jump that bear or some one else will get there first. + We got to skedaddle!"</p> + + <p>As before we fell into a manzanita thicket and had to crawl. + Then we came out upon the rim of a box canyon where the echoes + made such a din. It was too steep to descend. We had to head it, + and Copple took chances. Loose boulders tripped me and stout + bushes saved me. We knocked streams of rock and gravel down into + this gorge, sending up a roar as of falling water. But we got + around. A steep slope lay below, all pine needles and leaves. + From this point I saw Edd on the opposite slope.</p> + + <p>"I stopped one bear," I yelled. "Hurry. Look out for the + dogs!"</p> + + <p>Then, imitating Copple, I sat down and slid as on a toboggan + for some thirty thrilling yards. Some of my anatomy and more of + my rags I left behind me. But it was too exciting then to think + of hurts. I managed to protect at least my rifle. Copple was + charging into the thicket below. I followed him into the dark + gorge, where huge boulders lay, and a swift brook ran, and leaves + two feet deep carpeted the shady canyon bed. It was gloomy down + into the lower part. I saw where bear had turned over the leaves + making a dark track.</p> + + <p>"The hounds have quit," called Copple suddenly. "I told you he + was your bear."</p> + + <p>We yelled. Somebody above us answered. Then we climbed up the + opposite slope, through a dense thicket, crossing a fresh bear + track, a running track, and soon came into an open rocky slide + where my bear lay surrounded by the hounds, with Old Dan on + guard. The bear was red in color, with silky fur, a long keen + head, and fine limbs, and of goodly size.</p> + + <p>"Cinnamon," declared Copple, and turning him over he pointed + to a white spot on his breast. "Fine bear. About four hundred + pounds. Maybe not so heavy. But he'll take some packin' up to the + rim!"</p> + + <p>Then I became aware of the other men. Takahashi had arrived on + the scene first, finding the bear dead. Edd came next, and after + him Pyle.</p> + + <p>I sat down for a much needed rest. Copple interested himself + in examining the bear, finding that my first shot had hit him in + the flank, and my second had gone through the middle of his body. + Next Copple amused himself by taking pictures of bear and hounds. + Old Dan came to me and lay beside me, and looked as if to say: + "Well, we got him!"</p> + + <p>Yells from both sides of the canyon were answered by Edd. R.C. + was rolling the rocks on his side at a great rate. But Nielsen on + the other side beat him to us. The Norwegian crashed the brush, + sent the avalanches roaring, and eventually reached us, all + dirty, ragged, bloody, with fire in his eye. He had come all the + way from the rim in short order. What a performance that must + have been! He said he thought he might be needed. R.C. guided by + Edd's yells, came cracking the brush down to us. Pale he was and + wet with sweat, and there were black brush marks across his face. + His eyes were keen and sharp. He had started down for the same + reason as Nielsen's. But he had to descend a slope so steep that + he had to hold on to keep from sliding down. And he had jumped a + big bear out of a bed of leaves. The bed was still warm. R.C. + said he had smelled bear, and that his toboggan slide down that + slope, with bears all around for all he knew, had started the + cold sweat on him.</p> + + <p>Presently George Haught joined us, having come down the bed of + the canyon.</p> + + <p>"We knew you'd got a bear," said George. "Father heard the + first two bullets hit meat. An' I heard him rollin' down the + slope."</p> + + <p>"Well!" exclaimed R.C. "That's what made those first two shots + sound so strange to me. Different from the last two. Sounded like + soft dead pats! And it was lead hitting flesh. I heard it half a + mile away!"</p> + + <p>This matter of the sound of bullets hitting flesh and being + heard at a great distance seemed to me the most remarkable + feature of our hunt. Later I asked Haught. He said he heard my + first two bullets strike and believed from the peculiar sound + that I had my bear. And his stand was fully a mile away. But the + morning was unusually still and sound carried far.</p> + + <p>The men hung my bear from the forks of a maple. Then they + decided to give us time to climb up to our stands before putting + the hounds on the other fresh trail.</p> + + <p>Nielsen, R.C., and I started to climb back up to the points. + Only plenty of time made it possible to scale those rugged + bluffs. Nielsen distanced us, and eventually we became separated. + The sun grew warm. The bees hummed. After a while we heard the + baying of the hounds. They were working westward under the bases + of the bluffs. We rimmed the heads of several gorges, climbed and + crossed the west ridge of Dude Canyon, and lost the hounds + somewhere as we traveled.</p> + + <p>R.C. did not seem to mind this misfortune any more than I. We + were content. Resting a while we chose the most accessible ridge + and started the long climb to the rim. Westward under us opened a + great noble canyon full of forests, thicketed slopes, cliffs and + caves and crags. Next time we rested we again heard the hounds, + far away at first, but gradually drawing closer. In half an hour + they appeared right under us again. Their baying, however, grew + desultory, and lacked the stirring note. Finally we heard Edd + calling and whistling to them. After that for a while all was + still. Then pealed up the clear tuneful melody of Edd's horn, + calling off the chase for that day and season.</p> + + <p>"All over," said R.C. "Are you glad?"</p> + + <p>"For Old Dan's sake and Tom's and the bears—yes," I + replied.</p> + + <p>"Me, too! But I'd never get enough of this country."</p> + + <p>We proceeded on our ascent over and up the broken masses of + rock, climbing slowly and easily, making frequent and long rests. + We liked to linger in the sun on the warm piny mossy benches. + Every shady cedar or juniper wooed us to tarry a moment. Old bear + tracks and fresh deer tracks held the same interest, though our + hunt was over. Above us the gray broken mass of rim towered and + loomed, more formidable as we neared it. Sometimes we talked a + little, but mostly we were silent.</p><a name="image-0065"> + <!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg057_m.jpg" width="448" height="621" alt= + "Meat in Camp "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Like an Indian, at every pause, I gazed out into the void. How + sweeping and grand the long sloping lines of ridges from the rim + down! Away in the east ragged spurs of peaks showed hazily, like + uncertain mountains on the desert. South ranged the upheaved and + wild Mazatzals. Everywhere beneath me, for leagues and leagues + extended the timbered hills of green, the gray outcroppings of + rocks, the red bluffs, the golden patches of grassy valleys, lost + in the canyons. All these swept away in a vast billowy ocean of + wilderness to become dim in the purple of distance. And the sun + was setting in a blaze of gold. From the rim I took a last + lingering look and did not marvel that I loved this wonderland of + Arizona.</p><a name="image-0067"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg058a_m.jpg" width="448" height="317" alt= + "Burros Packed for the Trail "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0068"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg058b_m.jpg" width="448" height="358" alt= + "The Deadly Cholla, Most Poisonous and Pain Inflicting Of The Cactus "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="2HCH0005"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> + + <div style="height: 4em;"></div> + + <h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + + <center> + DEATH VALLEY + </center> + + <p>Of the five hundred and fifty-seven thousand square miles of + desert-land in the southwest Death Valley is the lowest below sea + level, the most arid and desolate. It derives its felicitous name + from the earliest days of the gold strike in California, when a + caravan of Mormons, numbering about seventy, struck out from Salt + Lake, to cross the Mojave Desert and make a short cut to the gold + fields. All but two of these prospectors perished in the deep, + iron-walled, ghastly sink-holes, which from that time became + known as Death Valley.</p> + + <p>The survivors of this fatal expedition brought news to the + world that the sombre valley of death was a treasure mine of + minerals; and since then hundreds of prospectors and wanderers + have lost their lives there. To seek gold and to live in the + lonely waste places of the earth have been and ever will be + driving passions of men.</p> + + <p>My companion on this trip was a Norwegian named Nielsen. On + most of my trips to lonely and wild places I have been fortunate + as to comrades or guides. The circumstances of my meeting Nielsen + were so singular that I think they will serve as an interesting + introduction. Some years ago I received a letter, brief, clear + and well-written, in which the writer stated that he had been a + wanderer over the world, a sailor before the mast, and was now a + prospector for gold. He had taken four trips alone down into the + desert of Sonora, and in many other places of the southwest, and + knew the prospecting game. Somewhere he had run across my story + <i>Desert Gold</i> in which I told about a lost gold mine. And + the point of his letter was that if I could give him some idea as + to where the lost gold mine was located he would go find it and + give me half. His name was Sievert Nielsen. I wrote him that to + my regret the lost gold mine existed only in my imagination, but + if he would come to Avalon to see me perhaps we might both profit + by such a meeting. To my surprise he came. He was a man of about + thirty-five, of magnificent physique, weighing about one hundred + and ninety, and he was so enormously broad across the shoulders + that he did not look his five feet ten. He had a wonderful head, + huge, round, solid, like a cannon-ball. And his bronzed face, his + regular features, square firm jaw, and clear gray eyes, fearless + and direct, were singularly attractive to me. Well educated, with + a strange calm poise, and a cool courtesy, not common in + Americans, he evidently was a man of good family, by his own + choice a rolling stone and adventurer.</p> + + <p>Nielsen accompanied me on two trips into the wilderness of + Arizona, on one of which he saved my life, and on the other he + rescued all our party from a most uncomfortable and possibly + hazardous situation—but these are tales I may tell + elsewhere. In January 1919 Nielsen and I traveled around the + desert of southern California from Palm Springs to Picacho, and + in March we went to Death Valley.</p> + + <p>Nowadays a little railroad, the Tonapah and Tidewater + Railroad, runs northward from the Santa Fe over the barren + Mojave, and it passes within fifty miles of Death Valley.</p> + + <p>It was sunset when we arrived at Death Valley Junction—a + weird, strange sunset in drooping curtains of transparent cloud, + lighting up dark mountain ranges, some peaks of which were + clear-cut and black against the sky, and others veiled in + trailing storms, and still others white with snow. That night in + the dingy little store I heard prospectors talk about float, + which meant gold on the surface, and about high grade ores, zinc, + copper, silver, lead, manganese, and about how borax was mined + thirty years ago, and hauled out of Death Valley by teams of + twenty mules. Next morning, while Nielsen packed the outfit, I + visited the borax mill. It was the property of an English firm, + and the work of hauling, grinding, roasting borax ore went on day + and night. Inside it was as dusty and full of a powdery + atmosphere as an old-fashioned flour mill. The ore was hauled by + train from some twenty miles over toward the valley, and was + dumped from a high trestle into shutes that fed the grinders. For + an hour I watched this constant stream of borax as it slid down + into the hungry crushers, and I listened to the chalk-faced + operator who yelled in my ear. Once he picked a piece of gypsum + out of the borax. He said the mill was getting out twenty-five + hundred sacks a day. The most significant thing he said was that + men did not last long at such labor, and in the mines six months + appeared to be the limit of human endurance. How soon I had + enough of that choking air in the room where the borax was + ground! And the place where the borax was roasted in huge round + revolving furnaces—I found that intolerable. When I got out + into the cool clean desert air I felt an immeasurable relief. And + that relief made me thoughtful of the lives of men who labored, + who were chained by necessity, by duty or habit, or by love, to + the hard tasks of the world. It did not seem fair. These laborers + of the borax mines and mills, like the stokers of ships, and + coal-diggers, and blast-furnace hands—like thousands and + millions of men, killed themselves outright or impaired their + strength, and when they were gone or rendered useless others were + found to take their places. Whenever I come in contact with some + phase of this problem of life I take the meaning or the lesson of + it to myself. And as the years go by my respect and reverence and + wonder increase for these men of elemental lives, these + horny-handed toilers with physical things, these uncomplaining + users of brawn and bone, these giants who breast the elements, + who till the earth and handle iron, who fight the natural forces + with their bodies.</p> + + <p>That day about noon I looked back down the long gravel and + greasewood slope which we had ascended and I saw the borax-mill + now only a smoky blot on the desert floor. When we reached the + pass between the Black Mountains and the Funeral Mountains we + left the road, and were soon lost to the works of man. How + strange a gladness, a relief! Something dropped away from me. I + felt the same subtle change in Nielsen. For one thing he stopped + talking, except an occasional word to the mules.</p> + + <p>The blunt end of the Funeral Range was as remarkable as its + name. It sheered up very high, a saw-toothed range with colored + strata tilted at an angle of forty-five degrees. Zigzag veins of + black and red and yellow, rather dull, ran through the great + drab-gray mass. This end of the range, an iron mountain, frowned + down upon us with hard and formidable aspect. The peak was draped + in streaky veils of rain from low-dropping clouds that appeared + to have lodged there. All below lay clear and cold in the + sunlight.</p><a name="image-0069"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg059a_m.jpg" width="448" height="340" alt= + "The Colored Calico Mountains "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0070"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg059b_m.jpg" width="448" height="347" alt= + "Down the Long Winding Wash to Death Valley "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Our direction lay to the westward, and at that altitude, about + three thousand feet, how pleasant to face the sun! For the wind + was cold. The narrow shallow wash leading down from the pass + deepened, widened, almost imperceptibly at first, and then + gradually until its proportions were striking. It was a gully + where the gravel washed down during rains, and where a scant + vegetation, greasewood, and few low cacti and scrubby sage + struggled for existence. Not a bird or lizard or living creature + in sight! The trail was getting lonely. From time to time I + looked back, because as we could not see far ahead all the superb + scene spread and towered behind us. By and bye our wash grew to + be a wide canyon, winding away from under the massive, + impondering wall of the Funeral Range. The high side of this + magnificent and impressive line of mountains faced west—a + succession of unscalable slopes of bare ragged rock, jagged and + jutted, dark drab, rusty iron, with gray and oblique strata + running through them far as eye could see. Clouds soared around + the peaks. Shadows sailed along the slopes.</p><a name= + "image-0071"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg060_m.jpg" width="728" height="448" alt= + "Desolation and Decay. Looking Down over the Denuded Ridges to the Stark Valley of Death "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Walking in loose gravel was as hard as trudging along in sand. + After about fifteen miles I began to have leaden feet. I did not + mind hard work, but I wanted to avoid over-exertion. When I am + extremely wearied my feelings are liable to be colored somewhat + by depression or melancholy. Then it always bothered me to get + tired while Nielsen kept on with his wonderful stride.</p> + + <p>"Say, Nielsen, do you take me for a Yaqui?" I complained. + "Slow up a little."</p> + + <p>Then he obliged me, and to cheer me up he told me about a + little tramping experience he had in Baja California. Somewhere + on the east slope of the Sierra Madre his burros strayed or were + killed by mountain-lions, and he found it imperative to strike at + once for the nearest ranch below the border, a distance of one + hundred and fifty miles. He could carry only so much of his + outfit, and as some of it was valuable to him he discarded all + his food except a few biscuits, and a canteen of water. Resting + only a few hours, without sleep at all, he walked the hundred and + fifty miles in three days and nights. I believed that Nielsen, by + telling me such incidents of his own wild experience, inspired me + to more endurance than I knew I possessed.</p> + + <p>As we traveled on down the canyon its dimensions continued to + grow. It finally turned to the left, and opened out wide into a + valley running west. A low range of hills faced us, rising in a + long sweeping slant of earth, like the incline of a glacier, to + rounded spurs. Half way up this slope, where the brown earth + lightened there showed an outcropping of clay-amber and cream and + cinnamon and green, all exquisitely vivid and clear. This bright + spot appeared to be isolated. Far above it rose other clay slopes + of variegated hues, red and russet and mauve and gray, and colors + indescribably merged, all running in veins through this range of + hills. We faced the west again, and descending this valley were + soon greeted by a region of clay hills, bare, cone-shaped, + fantastic in shade, slope, and ridge, with a high sharp peak + dominating all. The colors were mauve, taupe, pearl-gray, all + stained by a descending band of crimson, as if a higher slope had + been stabbed to let its life blood flow down. The softness, the + richness and beauty of this texture of earth amazed and delighted + my eyes.</p> + + <p>Quite unprepared, at time approaching sunset, we reached and + rounded a sharp curve, to see down and far away, and to be held + mute in our tracks. Between a white-mantled mountain range on the + left and the dark-striped lofty range on the right I could see + far down into a gulf, a hazy void, a vast stark valley that + seemed streaked and ridged and canyoned, an abyss into which + veils of rain were dropping and over which broken clouds hung, + pierced by red and gold rays.</p> + + <p>Death Valley! Far down and far away still, yet confounding at + first sight! I gazed spellbound. It oppressed my heart. Nielsen + stood like a statue, silent, absorbed for a moment, then he + strode on. I followed, and every second saw more and different + aspects, that could not, however, change the first stunning + impression. Immense, unreal, weird! I went on down the widening + canyon, looking into that changing void. How full of color! It + smoked. The traceries of streams or shining white washes + brightened the floor of the long dark pit. Patches and plains of + white, borax flats or alkali, showed up like snow. A red haze, + sinister and sombre, hung over the eastern ramparts of this + valley, and over the western drooped gray veils of rain, like + thinnest lacy clouds, through which gleams of the sun shone.</p> + + <p>Nielsen plodded on, mindful of our mules. But I lingered, and + at last checked my reluctant steps at an open high point with + commanding and magnificent view. As I did not attempt the + impossible—to write down thoughts and + sensations—afterward I could remember only a few. How + desolate and grand! The far-away, lonely and terrible places of + the earth were the most beautiful and elevating. Life's little + day seemed so easy to understand, so pitiful. As the sun began to + set and the storm-clouds moved across it this wondrous scene + darkened, changed every moment, brightened, grew full of luminous + red light and then streaked by golden gleams. The tips of the + Panamint Mountains came out silver above the purple clouds. At + sunset the moment was glorious—dark, forbidding, dim, + weird, dismal, yet still tinged with gold. Not like any other + scene! Dante's Inferno! Valley of Shadows! Canyon of Purple + Veils!</p> + + <p>When the sun had set and all that upheaved and furrowed world + of rock had received a mantle of gray, and a slumberous + sulphurous ruddy haze slowly darkened to purple and black, then I + realized more fully that I was looking down into Death + Valley.</p> + + <p>Twilight was stealing down when I caught up with Nielsen. He + had selected for our camp a protected nook near where the canyon + floor bore some patches of sage, the stalks and roots of which + would serve for firewood. We unpacked, fed the mules some grain, + pitched our little tent and made our bed all in short order. But + it was dark long before we had supper. During the meal we talked + a little, but afterward, when the chores were done, and the mules + had become quiet, and the strange thick silence had settled down + upon us, we did not talk at all.</p> + + <p>The night was black, with sky mostly obscured by clouds. A + pale haze marked the west where the after glow had faded; in the + south one radiant star crowned a mountain peak. I strolled away + in the darkness and sat down upon a stone. How intense the + silence! Dead, vast, sepulchre-like, dreaming, waiting, a silence + of ages, burdened with the history of the past, awful! I strained + my ears for sound of insect or rustle of sage or drop of + weathered rock. The soft cool desert wind was soundless. This + silence had something terrifying in it, making me a man alone on + the earth. The great spaces, the wild places as they had been + millions of years before! I seemed to divine how through them man + might develop from savage to a god, and how alas! he might go + back again.</p> + + <p>When I returned to camp Nielsen had gone to bed and the fire + had burned low. I threw on some branches of sage. The fire blazed + up. But it seemed different from other camp-fires. No cheer, no + glow, no sparkle! Perhaps it was owing to scant and poor wood. + Still I thought it was owing as much to the place. The sadness, + the loneliness, the desolateness of this place weighed upon the + camp-fire the same as it did upon my heart.</p> + + <p>We got up at five-thirty. At dawn the sky was a cold leaden + gray, with a dull gold and rose in the east. A hard wind, eager + and nipping, blew up the canyon. At six o'clock the sky + brightened somewhat and the day did not promise so + threatening.</p> + + <p>An hour later we broke camp. Traveling in the early morning + was pleasant and we made good time down the winding canyon, + arriving at Furnace Creek about noon, where we halted to rest. + This stream of warm water flowed down from a gully that headed up + in the Funeral Mountains. It had a disagreeable taste, somewhat + acrid and soapy. A green thicket of brush was indeed welcome to + the eye. It consisted of a rank coarse kind of grass, and + arrowweed, mesquite, and tamarack. The last named bore a pink + fuzzy blossom, not unlike pussy-willow, which was quite fragrant. + Here the deadness of the region seemed further enlivened by + several small birds, speckled and gray, two ravens, and a hawk. + They all appeared to be hunting food. On a ridge above Furnace + Creek we came upon a spring of poison water. It was clear, + sparkling, with a greenish cast, and it deposited a white crust + on the margins. Nielsen, kicking around in the sand, unearthed a + skull, bleached and yellow, yet evidently not so very old. Some + thirsty wanderer had taken his last drink at that deceiving + spring. The gruesome and the beautiful, the tragic and the + sublime, go hand in hand down the naked shingle of this desolate + desert.</p> + + <p>While tramping around in the neighborhood of Furnace Creek I + happened upon an old almost obliterated trail. It led toward the + ridges of clay, and when I had climbed it a little ways I began + to get an impression that the slopes on the other side must run + down into a basin or canyon. So I climbed to the top.</p> + + <p>The magnificent scenes of desert and mountain, like the + splendid things of life, must be climbed for. In this instance I + was suddenly and stunningly confronted by a yellow gulf of + cone-shaped and fan-shaped ridges, all bare crinkly clay, of + gold, of amber, of pink, of bronze, of cream, all tapering down + to round-knobbed lower ridges, bleak and barren, yet wonderfully + beautiful in their stark purity of denudation; until at last far + down between two widely separated hills shone, dim and blue and + ghastly, with shining white streaks like silver streams—the + Valley of Death. Then beyond it climbed the league-long red + slope, merging into the iron-buttressed base of the Panamint + Range, and here line on line, and bulge on bulge rose the bold + benches, and on up the unscalable outcroppings of rock, like + colossal ribs of the earth, on and up the steep slopes to where + their density of blue black color began to thin out with streaks + of white, and thence upward to the last noble height, where the + cold pure snow gleamed against the sky.</p> + + <p>I descended into this yellow maze, this world of gullies and + ridges where I found it difficult to keep from getting lost. I + did lose my bearings, but as my boots made deep imprints in the + soft clay I knew it would be easy to back-track my trail. After a + while this labyrinthine series of channels and dunes opened into + a wide space enclosed on three sides by denuded slopes, mostly + yellow. These slopes were smooth, graceful, symmetrical, with + tiny tracery of erosion, and each appeared to retain its own + color, yellow or cinnamon or mauve. But they were always + dominated by a higher one of a different color. And this mystic + region sloped and slanted to a great amphitheater that was walled + on the opposite side by a mountain of bare earth, of every hue, + and of a thousand ribbed and scalloped surfaces. At its base the + golds and russets and yellows were strongest, but ascending its + slopes were changing colors—a dark beautiful mouse color on + one side and a strange pearly cream on the other. Between these + great corners of the curve climbed ridges of gray and heliotrope + and amber, to meet wonderful veins of green—green as the + sea in sunlight—and tracery of white—and on the bold + face of this amphitheater, high up, stood out a zigzag belt of + dull red, the stain of which had run down to tinge the other + hues. Above all this wondrous coloration upheaved the bare breast + of the mountain, growing darker with earthy browns, up to the + gray old rock ramparts.</p> + + <p>This place affected me so strangely, so irresistibly that I + remained there a long time. Something terrible had happened there + to men. I felt that. Something tragic was going on right + then—the wearing down, the devastation of the old earth. + How plainly that could be seen! Geologically it was more + remarkable to me than the Grand Canyon. But it was the appalling + meaning, the absolutely indescribable beauty that overcame me. I + thought of those who had been inspiration to me in my work, and I + suffered a pang that they could not be there to see and feel with + me.</p> + + <p>On my way out of this amphitheater a hard wind swooped down + over the slopes, tearing up the colored dust in sheets and + clouds. It seemed to me each gully had its mystic pall of color. + I lost no time climbing out. What a hot choking ordeal! But I + never would have missed it even had I known I would get lost. + Looking down again the scene was vastly changed. A smoky weird + murky hell with the dull sun gleaming magenta-hued through the + shifting pall of dust!</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we proceeded leisurely, through an atmosphere + growing warmer and denser, down to the valley, reaching it at + dusk. We followed the course of Furnace Creek and made camp under + some cottonwood trees, on the west slope of the valley.</p> + + <p>The wind blew a warm gale all night. I lay awake a while and + slept with very little covering. Toward dawn the gale died away. + I was up at five-thirty. The morning broke fine, clear, balmy. A + flare of pale gleaming light over the Funeral Range heralded the + sunrise. The tips of the higher snow-capped Panamints were rose + colored, and below them the slopes were red. The bulk of the + range showed dark. All these features gradually brightened until + the sun came up. How blazing and intense! The wind began to blow + again. Under the cottonwoods with their rustling leaves, and + green so soothing to the eye, it was very pleasant.</p> + + <p>Beyond our camp stood green and pink thickets of tamarack, and + some dark velvety green alfalfa fields, made possible by the + spreading of Furnace Creek over the valley slope. A man lived + there, and raised this alfalfa for the mules of the borax miners. + He lived there alone and his was indeed a lonely, wonderful, and + terrible life. At this season a few Shoshone Indians were camped + near, helping him in his labors. This lone rancher's name was + Denton, and he turned out to be a brother of a Denton, hunter and + guide, whom I had met in Lower California.</p><a name= + "image-0072"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg061a_m.jpg" width="448" height="335" alt= + "Desert Graves "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + <a name="image-0073"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg061b_m.jpg" width="448" height="336" alt= + "The Ghastly Sweep of Death Valley "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>Like all desert men, used to silence, Denton talked with + difficulty, but the content of his speech made up for its + brevity. He told us about the wanderers and prospectors he had + rescued from death by starvation and thirst; he told us about the + terrific noonday heat of summer; and about the incredible and + horrible midnight furnace gales that swept down the valley. With + the mercury at one hundred and twenty-five degrees at midnight, + below the level of the sea, when these furnace blasts bore down + upon him, it was just all he could do to live. No man could spend + many summers there. As for white women—Death Valley was + fatal to them. The Indians spent the summers up on the mountains. + Denton said heat affected men differently. Those who were meat + eaters or alcohol drinkers, could not survive. Perfect heart and + lungs were necessary to stand the heat and density of atmosphere + below sea level. He told of a man who had visited his cabin, and + had left early in the day, vigorous and strong. A few hours later + he was found near the oasis unable to walk, crawling on his hands + and knees, dragging a full canteen of water. He never knew what + ailed him. It might have been heat, for the thermometer + registered one hundred and thirty-five, and it might have been + poison gas. Another man, young, of heavy and powerful build, lost + seventy pounds weight in less than two days, and was nearly dead + when found. The heat of Death Valley quickly dried up blood, + tissue, bone. Denton told of a prospector who started out at dawn + strong and rational, to return at sunset so crazy that he had to + be tied to keep him out of the water. To have drunk his fill then + would have killed him! He had to be fed water by spoonful. + Another wanderer came staggering into the oasis, blind, with + horrible face, and black swollen tongue protruding. He could not + make a sound. He also had to be roped, as if he were a mad + steer.</p><a name="image-0074"><!--IMG--></a> + + <center> + <img src="./images/zg062_m.jpg" width="735" height="448" alt= + "In the Center of The Salt-incrusted Floor Of Death Valley, Three Hundred Feet Below Sea Level "> + </center><!--IMAGE END--> + + <p>I met only one prospector during my stay in Death Valley. He + camped with us. A rather undersized man he was, yet muscular, + with brown wrinkled face and narrow dim eyes. He seemed to be + smiling to himself most of the time. He liked to talk to his + burros. He was exceedingly interesting. Once he nearly died of + thirst, having gone from noon one day till next morning without + water. He said he fell down often during this ordeal, but did not + lose his senses. Finally the burros saved his life. This old + fellow had been across Death Valley every month in the year. July + was the worst. In that month crossing should not be attempted + during the middle of the day.</p> + + <p>I made the acquaintance of the Shoshone Indians, or rather + through Nielsen I met them. Nielsen had a kindly, friendly way + with Indians. There were half a dozen families, living in squalid + tents. The braves worked in the fields for Denton and the squaws + kept to the shade with their numerous children. They appeared to + be poor. Certainly they were a ragged unpicturesque group. + Nielsen and I visited them, taking an armload of canned fruit, + and boxes of sweet crackers, which they received with evident + joy. Through this overture I got a peep into one of the tents. + The simplicity and frugality of the desert Piute or Navajo were + here wanting. These children of the open wore white men's apparel + and ate white men's food; and they even had a cook stove and a + sewing machine in their tent. With all that they were trying to + live like Indians. For me the spectacle was melancholy. Another + manifestation added to my long list of degeneration of the + Indians by the whites! The tent was a buzzing beehive of flies. I + never before saw so many. In a corner I saw a naked Indian baby + asleep on a goat skin, all his brown warm-tinted skin spotted + black with flies.</p> + + <p>Later in the day one of the Indian men called upon us at our + camp. I was surprised to hear him use good English. He said he + had been educated in a government school in California. From him + I learned considerable about Death Valley. As he was about to + depart, on the way to his labor in the fields, he put his hand in + his ragged pocket and drew forth an old beaded hat band, and with + calm dignity, worthy of any gift, he made me a present of it. + Then he went on his way. The incident touched me. I had been + kind. The Indian was not to be outdone. How that reminded me of + the many instances of pride in Indians! Who yet has ever told the + story of the Indian—the truth, the spirit, the soul of his + tragedy?</p> + + <p>Nielsen and I climbed high up the west slope to the top of a + gravel ridge swept clean and packed hard by the winds. Here I sat + down while my companion tramped curiously around. At my feet I + found a tiny flower, so tiny as to almost defy detection. The + color resembled sage-gray and it had the fragrance of sage. Hard + to find and wonderful to see—was its tiny blossom! The + small leaves were perfectly formed, very soft, veined and + scalloped, with a fine fuzz and a glistening sparkle. That desert + flower of a day, in its isolation and fragility, yet its + unquenchable spirit to live, was as great to me as the tremendous + reddening bulk of the Funeral Mountains looming so sinisterly + over me.</p> + + <p>Then I saw some large bats with white heads flitting around in + zigzag flights—assuredly new and strange creatures to + me.</p> + + <p>I had come up there to this high ridge to take advantage of + the bleak lonely spot commanding a view of valley and mountains. + Before I could compose myself to watch the valley I made the + discovery that near me were six low gravelly mounds. Graves! One + had two stones at head and foot. Another had no mark at all. The + one nearest me had for the head a flat piece of board, with + lettering so effaced by weather that I could not decipher the + inscription. The bones of a horse lay littered about between the + graves. What a lonely place for graves! Death Valley seemed to be + one vast sepulchre. What had been the lives and deaths of these + people buried here? Lonely, melancholy, nameless graves upon the + windy desert slope!</p> + + <p>By this time the long shadows had begun to fall. Sunset over + Death Valley! A golden flare burned over the Panamints—long + tapering notched mountains with all their rugged conformation + showing. Above floated gold and gray and silver-edged + clouds—below shone a whorl of dusky, ruddy bronze haze, + gradually thickening. Dim veils of heat still rose from the pale + desert valley. As I watched all before me seemed to change and be + shrouded in purple. How bold and desolate a scene! What vast + scale and tremendous dimension! The clouds paled, turned rosy for + a moment with the afterglow, then deepened into purple gloom. A + sombre smoky sunset, as if this Death Valley was the gateway of + hell, and its sinister shades were upflung from fire.</p> + + <p>The desert day was done and now the desert twilight descended. + Twilight of hazy purple fell over the valley of shadows. The + black bold lines of mountains ran across the sky and down into + the valley and up on the other side. A buzzard sailed low in the + foreground—fitting emblem of life in all that wilderness of + suggested death. This fleeting hour was tranquil and sad. What + little had it to do with the destiny of man! Death Valley was + only a ragged rent of the old earth, from which men in their + folly and passion, had sought to dig forth golden treasure. The + air held a solemn stillness. Peace! How it rested my troubled + soul! I felt that I was myself here, far different from my + habitual self. Why had I longed to see Death Valley? What did I + want of the desert that was naked, red, sinister, sombre, + forbidding, ghastly, stark, dim and dark and dismal, the abode of + silence and loneliness, the proof of death, decay, devastation + and destruction, the majestic sublimity of desolation? The answer + was that I sought the awful, the appalling and terrible because + they harked me back to a primitive day where my blood and bones + were bequeathed their heritage of the elements. That was the + secret of the eternal fascination the desert exerted upon all + men. It carried them back. It inhibited thought. It brought up + the age-old sensations, so that I could feel, though I did not + know it then, once again the all-satisfying state of the savage + in nature.</p> + + <p>When I returned to camp night had fallen. The evening star + stood high in the pale sky, all alone and difficult to see, yet + the more beautiful for that. The night appeared to be warmer or + perhaps it was because no wind blew. Nielsen got supper, and ate + most of it, for I was not hungry. As I sat by the camp-fire a + flock of little bats, the smallest I had ever seen, darted from + the wood-pile nearby and flew right in my face. They had no fear + of man or fire. Their wings made a soft swishing sound. Later I + heard the trill of frogs, which was the last sound I might have + expected to hear in Death Valley. A sweet high-pitched melodious + trill it reminded me of the music made by frogs in the Tamaulipas + Jungle of Mexico. Every time I awakened that night, and it was + often, I heard this trill. Once, too, sometime late, my listening + ear caught faint mournful notes of a killdeer. How strange, and + still sweeter than the trill! What a touch to the infinite + silence and loneliness! A killdeer—bird of the swamps and + marshes—what could he be doing in arid and barren Death + Valley? Nature is mysterious and inscrutable.</p> + + <p>Next morning the marvel of nature was exemplified even more + strikingly. Out on the hard gravel-strewn slope I found some more + tiny flowers of a day. One was a white daisy, very frail and + delicate on long thin stem with scarcely any leaves. Another was + a yellow flower, with four petals, a pale miniature California + poppy. Still another was a purple-red flower, almost as large as + a buttercup, with dark green leaves. Last and tiniest of all were + infinitely fragile pink and white blossoms, on very flat plants, + smiling wanly up from the desolate earth.</p> + + <p>Nielsen and I made known to Denton our purpose to walk across + the valley. He advised against it. Not that the heat was intense + at this season, he explained, but there were other dangers, + particularly the brittle salty crust of the sink-hole. + Nevertheless we were not deterred from our purpose.</p> + + <p>So with plenty of water in canteens and a few biscuits in our + pockets we set out. I saw the heat veils rising from the valley + floor, at that point one hundred and seventy-eight feet below sea + level. The heat lifted in veils, like thin smoke. Denton had told + us that in summer the heat came in currents, in waves. It blasted + leaves, burned trees to death as well as men. Prospectors watched + for the leaden haze that thickened over the mountains, knowing + then no man could dare the terrible sun. That day would be a + hazed and glaring hell, leaden, copper, with sun blazing a sky of + molten iron.</p> + + <p>A long sandy slope of mesquite extended down to the bare + crinkly floor of the valley, and here the descent to a lower + level was scarcely perceptible. The walking was bad. Little + mounds in the salty crust made it hard to place a foot on the + level. This crust appeared fairly strong. But when it rang hollow + under our boots, then I stepped very cautiously. The color was a + dirty gray and yellow. Far ahead I could see a dazzling white + plain that looked like frost or a frozen river. The atmosphere + was deceptive, making this plain seem far away and then close at + hand.</p> + + <p>The excessively difficult walking and the thickness of the air + tired me, so I plumped myself down to rest, and used my note-book + as a means to conceal from the tireless Nielsen that I was + fatigued. Always I found this a very efficient excuse, and for + that matter it was profitable for me. I have forgotten more than + I have ever written.</p> + + <p>Rather overpowering, indeed, was it to sit on the floor of + Death Valley, miles from the slopes that appeared so far away. It + was flat, salty, alkali or borax ground, crusted and cracked. The + glare hurt my eyes. I felt moist, hot, oppressed, in spite of a + rather stiff wind. A dry odor pervaded the air, slightly like + salty dust. Thin dust devils whirled on the bare flats. A + valley-wide mirage shone clear as a mirror along the desert floor + to the west, strange, deceiving, a thing both unreal and + beautiful. The Panamints towered a wrinkled red grisly mass, + broken by rough canyons, with long declines of talus like brown + glaciers. Seamed and scarred! Indestructible by past ages, yet + surely wearing to ruin! From this point I could not see the snow + on the peaks. The whole mountain range seemed an immense red + barrier of beetling rock. The Funeral Range was farther away and + therefore more impressive. Its effect was stupendous. Leagues of + brown chocolate slopes, scarred by slashes of yellow and cream, + and shadowed black by sailing clouds, led up to the magnificently + peaked and jutted summits.</p> + + <p>Splendid as this was and reluctant as I felt to leave I soon + joined Nielsen, and we proceeded onward. At last we reached the + white winding plain, that had resembled a frozen river, and which + from afar had looked so ghastly and stark. We found it to be a + perfectly smooth stratum of salt glistening as if powdered. It + was not solid, not stable. At pressure of a boot it shook like + jelly. Under the white crust lay a yellow substance that was wet. + Here appeared an obstacle we had not calculated upon. Nielsen + ventured out on it and his feet sank in several inches. I did not + like the wave of the crust. It resembled thin ice under a weight. + Presently I ventured to take a few steps, and did not sink in so + deeply or make such depression in the crust as Nielsen. We + returned to the solid edge and deliberated. Nielsen said that by + stepping quickly we could cross without any great risk, though it + appeared reasonable that by standing still a person would sink + into the substance.</p> + + <p>"Well, Nielsen, you go ahead," I said, with an attempt at + lightness. "You weigh one hundred and ninety. If you go through + I'll turn back!"</p> + + <p>Nielsen started with a laugh. The man courted peril. The + bright face of danger must have been beautiful and alluring to + him. I started after him—caught up with him—and + stayed beside him. I could not have walked behind him over that + strip of treacherous sink-hole. If I could have done so the whole + adventure would have been meaningless to me. Nevertheless I was + frightened. I felt the prickle of my skin, the stiffening of my + hair, as well as the cold tingling thrills along my veins.</p> + + <p>This place was the lowest point of the valley, in that + particular location, and must have been upwards of two hundred + feet below sea level. The lowest spot, called the Sink Hole, lay + some miles distant, and was the terminus of this river of salty + white.</p> + + <p>We crossed it in safety. On the other side extended a long + flat of upheaved crusts of salt and mud, full of holes and + pitfalls, an exceedingly toilsome and painful place to travel, + and for all we could tell, dangerous too. I had all I could do to + watch my feet and find surfaces to hold my steps. Eventually we + crossed this broken field, reaching the edge of the gravel slope, + where we were very glad indeed to rest.</p> + + <p>Denton had informed us that the distance was seven miles + across the valley at the mouth of Furnace Creek. I had thought it + seemed much less than that. But after I had toiled across it I + was convinced that it was much more. It had taken us hours. How + the time had sped! For this reason we did not tarry long on that + side.</p> + + <p>Facing the sun we found the return trip more formidable. Hot + indeed it was—hot enough for me to imagine how terrible + Death Valley would be in July or August. On all sides the + mountains stood up dim and obscure and distant in haze. The heat + veils lifted in ripples, and any object not near at hand seemed + illusive. Nielsen set a pace for me on this return trip. I was + quicker and surer of foot than he, but he had more endurance. I + lost strength while he kept his unimpaired. So often he had to + wait for me. Once when I broke through the crust he happened to + be close at hand and quickly hauled me out. I got one foot wet + with some acid fluid. We peered down into the murky hole. Nielsen + quoted a prospector's saying: "Forty feet from hell!" That broken + sharp crust of salt afforded the meanest traveling I had ever + experienced. Slopes of weathered rock that slip and slide are + bad; cacti, and especially choya cacti, are worse: the jagged and + corrugated surfaces of lava are still more hazardous and painful. + But this cracked floor of Death Valley, with its salt crusts + standing on end, like pickets of a fence, beat any place for hard + going that either Nielsen or I ever had encountered. I ruined my + boots, skinned my shins, cut my hands. How those salt cuts stung! + We crossed the upheaved plain, then the strip of white, and + reached the crinkly floor of yellow salt. The last hour taxed my + endurance almost to the limit. When we reached the edge of the + sand and the beginning of the slope I was hotter and thirstier + than I had ever been in my life. It pleased me to see Nielsen + wringing wet and panting. He drank a quart of water apparently in + one gulp. And it was significant that I took the longest and + deepest drink of water that I had ever had.</p> + + <p>We reached camp at the end of this still hot summer day. Never + had a camp seemed so welcome! What a wonderful thing it was to + earn and appreciate and realize rest! The cottonwood leaves were + rustling; bees were humming in the tamarack blossoms. I lay in + the shade, resting my burning feet and achiag bones, and I + watched Nielsen as he whistled over the camp chores. Then I heard + the sweet song of a meadow lark, and after that the melodious + deep note of a swamp blackbird. These birds evidently were + traveling north and had tarried at the oasis.</p> + + <p>Lying there I realized that I had come to love the silence, + the loneliness, the serenity, even the tragedy of this valley of + shadows. Death Valley was one place that could never be popular + with men. It had been set apart for the hardy diggers for earthen + treasure, and for the wanderers of the wastelands—men who + go forth to seek and to find and to face their souls. Perhaps + most of them found death. But there was a death in life. Desert + travelers learned the secret that men lived too much in the + world—that in silence and loneliness and desolation there + was something infinite, something hidden from the crowd.</p> + + <center> + THE END + </center> + + <div style="height: 6em;"></div> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12225 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/12225-h/images/zg001_m.jpg b/12225-h/images/zg001_m.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a49d271 --- /dev/null +++ b/12225-h/images/zg001_m.jpg diff --git a/12225-h/images/zg002_m.jpg b/12225-h/images/zg002_m.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..85bcb2f --- /dev/null +++ b/12225-h/images/zg002_m.jpg diff --git a/12225-h/images/zg003a_m.jpg b/12225-h/images/zg003a_m.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d71540c --- /dev/null +++ b/12225-h/images/zg003a_m.jpg diff --git a/12225-h/images/zg003b_m.jpg b/12225-h/images/zg003b_m.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 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