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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 05:16:41 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 05:16:41 -0700
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+ <head>
+ <title>
+ Penelope's Experiences in Scotland, by Kate Douglas Wiggin
+ </title>
+ <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
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+ P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
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+ hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+ .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
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+ .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+ .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+ .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;}
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+</style>
+ </head>
+ <body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1217 ***</div>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <h1>
+ PENELOPE&rsquo;S EXPERIENCES IN SCOTLAND
+ </h1>
+ <h3>
+ Being extracts from the commonplace book of Penelope Hamilton
+ </h3>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ By Kate Douglas Wiggin
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <h4>
+ 1913 Gay and Hancock edition
+ </h4>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <h3>
+ To G.C.R.
+ </h3>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <blockquote>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. A Triangular Alliance. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. Edina, Scotia&rsquo;s Darling Seat. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. A vision in Princes Street. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. Susanna Crum cudna say. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. We emulate the Jackdaw. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. Edinburgh society, past and
+ present. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. Francesca meets th&rsquo; unconquer&rsquo;d
+ Scot. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. &lsquo;What made th&rsquo; Assembly shine?&rsquo;
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. Omnia presbyteria est divisa in
+ partes tres. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop as a sermon-taster.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. Holyrood awakens. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. Farewell to Edinburgh. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. The spell of Scotland. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. The wee theekit hoosie in the
+ loaning. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. Jane Grieve and her grievances.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI. The path that led to Crummylowe.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. Playing Sir Patrick Spens. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII. Paris comes to Pettybaw. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter XIX. Fowk o&rsquo; Fife. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter XX. A Fifeshire tea-party. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0021"> Chapter XXI. International bickering. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0022"> Chapter XXII. Francesca entertains the
+ green-eyed monster. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0023"> Chapter XXIII. Ballad revels at Rowardennan.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0024"> Chapter XXIV. Old songs and modern instances.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0025"> Chapter XXV. A treaty between nations. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0026"> Chapter XXVI. &lsquo;Scotland&rsquo;s burning! Look out!&rsquo;
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2HCH0027"> Chapter XXVII. Three magpies and a marriage.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ </blockquote>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br /> <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter I. A Triangular Alliance.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Edina, Scotia&rsquo;s Darling seat!
+ All hail thy palaces and towers!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Edinburgh, April 189-.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ 22 Breadalbane Terrace.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have travelled together before, Salemina, Francesca, and I, and we know
+ the very worst there is to know about one another. After this point has
+ been reached, it is as if a triangular marriage had taken place, and, with
+ the honeymoon comfortably over, we slip along in thoroughly friendly
+ fashion. I use no warmer word than&rsquo;friendly&rsquo; because, in the first place,
+ the highest tides of feeling do not visit the coasts of triangular
+ alliances; and because, in the second place, &lsquo;friendly&rsquo; is a word capable
+ of putting to the blush many a more passionate and endearing one.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Every one knows of our experiences in England, for we wrote volumes of
+ letters concerning them, the which were widely circulated among our
+ friends at the time, and read aloud under the evening lamps in the several
+ cities of our residence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Since then few striking changes have taken place in our history.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina returned to Boston for the winter, to find, to her amazement,
+ that for forty odd years she had been rather overestimating it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On arriving in New York, Francesca discovered that the young lawyer whom
+ for six months she had been advising to marry somebody more worthy than
+ herself was at last about to do it. This was somewhat in the nature of a
+ shock, for Francesca had been in the habit, ever since she was seventeen,
+ of giving her lovers similar advice, and up to this time no one of them
+ has ever taken it. She therefore has had the not unnatural hope, I think,
+ of organising at one time or another all these disappointed and faithful
+ swains into a celibate brotherhood; and perhaps of driving by the
+ interesting monastery with her husband and calling his attention modestly
+ to the fact that these poor monks were filling their barren lives with
+ deeds of piety, trying to remember their Creator with such assiduity that
+ they might, in time, forget Her.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Her chagrin was all the keener at losing this last aspirant to her hand in
+ that she had almost persuaded herself that she was as fond of him as she
+ was likely to be of anybody, and that on the whole she had better marry
+ him and save his life and reason.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Fortunately she had not communicated this gleam of hope by letter,
+ feeling, I suppose, that she would like to see for herself the light of
+ joy breaking over his pale cheek. The scene would have been rather pretty
+ and touching, but meantime the Worm had turned and despatched a letter to
+ the Majestic at the quarantine station, telling her that he had found a
+ less reluctant bride in the person of her intimate friend Miss Rosa Van
+ Brunt; and so Francesca&rsquo;s dream of duty and sacrifice was over.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina says she was somewhat constrained for a week and a trifle cynical
+ for a fortnight, but that afterwards her spirits mounted on ever ascending
+ spirals to impossible heights, where they have since remained. It appears
+ from all this that although she was piqued at being taken at her word, her
+ heart was not in the least damaged. It never was one of those fragile
+ things which have to be wrapped in cotton, and preserved from the
+ slightest blow&mdash;Francesca&rsquo;s heart. It is made of excellent stout,
+ durable material, and I often tell her with the care she takes of it, and
+ the moderate strain to which it is subjected, it ought to be as good as
+ new a hundred years hence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As for me, the scene of my own love-story is laid in America and England,
+ and has nought to do with Edinburgh. It is far from finished; indeed, I
+ hope it will be the longest serial on record, one of those charming tales
+ that grow in interest as chapter after chapter unfolds, until at the end
+ we feel as if we could never part with the delightful people.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I should be, at this very moment, Mrs. William Beresford, a highly
+ respectable young matron who painted rather good pictures in her spinster
+ days, when she was Penelope Hamilton of the great American working-class,
+ Unlimited; but first Mrs. Beresford&rsquo;s dangerous illness and then her
+ death, have kept my dear boy a willing prisoner in Cannes, his heart sadly
+ torn betwixt his love and duty to his mother and his desire to be with me.
+ The separation is virtually over now, and we two, alas! have ne&rsquo;er a
+ mother or a father between us, so we shall not wait many months before
+ beginning to comfort each other in good earnest.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meantime Salemina and Francesca have persuaded me to join their forces,
+ and Mr. Beresford will follow us to Scotland in a few short weeks, when we
+ shall have established ourselves in the country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We are overjoyed at being together again, we three women folk. As I said
+ before, we know the worst of one another, and the future has no terrors.
+ We have learned, for example, that&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca does not like an early morning start. Salemina refuses to arrive
+ late anywhere. Penelope prefers to stay behind and follow next day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca scorns to travel third class. So does Salemina, but she will if
+ urged.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Penelope hates a four-wheeler. Salemina is nervous in a hansom. Francesca
+ prefers a barouche or a landau.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina likes a steady fire in the grate. Penelope opens a window and
+ fans herself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina inclines to instructive and profitable expeditions. Francesca
+ loves processions and sightseeing. Penelope abhors all of these equally.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina likes history. Francesca loves fiction. Penelope adores poetry
+ and detests facts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Penelope likes substantial breakfasts. Francesca dislikes the sight of
+ food in the morning.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the matter of breakfasts, when we have leisure to assert our individual
+ tastes, Salemina prefers tea, Francesca cocoa, and I, coffee. We can
+ never, therefore, be served with a large comfortable pot of anything, but
+ are confronted instead with a caravan of silver jugs, china jugs, bowls of
+ hard and soft sugar, hot milk, cold milk, hot water, and cream, while each
+ in her secret heart wishes that the other two were less exigeante in the
+ matter of diet and beverages.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This does not sound promising, but it works perfectly well in practice by
+ the exercise of a little flexibility.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As we left dear old Dovermarle Street and Smith&rsquo;s Private Hotel behind,
+ and drove to the station to take the Flying Scotsman, we indulged in
+ floods of reminiscence over the joys of travel we had tasted together in
+ the past, and talked with lively anticipation of the new experiences
+ awaiting us in the land of heather.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ While Salemina went to purchase the three first-class tickets, I
+ superintended the porters as they disposed our luggage in the van, and in
+ so doing my eye lighted upon a third-class carriage which was, for a
+ wonder, clean, comfortable, and vacant. Comparing it hastily with the
+ first-class compartment being held by Francesca, I found that it differed
+ only in having no carpet on the floor, and a smaller number of buttons in
+ the upholstering. This was really heartrending when the difference in fare
+ for three persons would be at least twenty dollars. What a delightful sum
+ to put aside for a rainy day!&mdash;that is, be it understood, what a
+ delightful sum to put aside and spend on the first rainy day! for that is
+ the way we always interpret the expression.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Salemina returned with the tickets, she found me, as usual, bewailing
+ our extravagance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca descended suddenly from her post, and, wresting the tickets from
+ her duenna, exclaimed, &ldquo;&lsquo;I know that I can save the country, and I know no
+ other man can!&rsquo; as William Pitt said to the Duke of Devonshire. I have had
+ enough of this argument. For six months of last year we discussed
+ travelling third class and continued to travel first. Get into that clean
+ hard-seated, ill-upholstered third-class carriage immediately, both of
+ you; save room enough for a mother with two babies, and man carrying a
+ basket of fish, and an old woman with five pieces of hand-luggage and a
+ dog; meanwhile I will exchange the tickets.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So saying, she disappeared rapidly among the throng of passengers, guards,
+ porters, newspaper boys, golfers with bags of clubs, young ladies with
+ bicycles, and old ladies with tin hat-boxes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What decision, what swiftness of judgment, what courage and energy!&rdquo;
+ murmured Salemina. &ldquo;Isn&rsquo;t she wonderfully improved since that unexpected
+ turning of the Worm?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca rejoined us just as the guard was about to lock us in, and flung
+ herself down, quite breathless from her unusual exertion.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Well, we are travelling third for once, and the money is saved, or at
+ least it is ready to spend again at the first opportunity. The man didn&rsquo;t
+ wish to exchange the tickets at all. He says it is never done. I told him
+ they were bought by a very inexperienced American lady (that is you,
+ Salemina) who knew almost nothing of the distinctions between first and
+ third class, and naturally took the best, believing it to be none too good
+ for a citizen of the greatest republic on the face of the earth. He said
+ the tickets had been stamped on. I said so should I be if I returned
+ without exchanging them. He was a very dense person, and didn&rsquo;t see my
+ joke at all, but then, it is true, there were thirteen men in line behind
+ me, with the train starting in three minutes, and there is nothing so
+ debilitating to a naturally weak sense of humour as selling tickets behind
+ a grating, so I am not really vexed with him. There! we are quite
+ comfortable, pending the arrival of the babies, the dog, and the fish, and
+ certainly no vendor of periodic literature will dare approach us while we
+ keep these books in evidence.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She had Laurence Hutton&rsquo;s Literary Landmarks and Royal Edinburgh, by Mrs.
+ Oliphant; I had Lord Cockburn&rsquo;s Memorials of his Time; and somebody had
+ given Salemina, at the moment of leaving London, a work on &lsquo;Scotias&rsquo;s
+ darling seat,&rsquo; in three huge volumes. When all this printed matter was
+ heaped on the top of Salemina&rsquo;s hold-all on the platform, the guard had
+ asked, &ldquo;Do you belong to these books, ma&rsquo;am?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We may consider ourselves injured in going from London to Edinburgh in a
+ third-class carriage in eight or ten hours, but listen to this,&rdquo; said
+ Salemina, who had opened one of her large volumes at random when the train
+ started.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;The Edinburgh and London Stage-coach begins on Monday, 13th October
+ 1712. All that desire... let them repair to the Coach and Horses at the
+ head of the Canongate every Saturday, or the Black Swan in Holborn every
+ other Monday, at both of which places they may be received in a coach
+ which performs the whole journey in thirteen days without any stoppage (if
+ God permits) having eighty able horses. Each passenger paying 4 pounds, 10
+ shillings for the whole journey, allowing each 20 lbs. weight and all
+ above to pay 6 pence per lb. The coach sets off at six in the morning&rsquo;
+ (you could never have caught it, Francesca!), &lsquo;and is performed by Henry
+ Harrison.&rsquo; And here is a &lsquo;modern improvement,&rsquo; forty-two years later. In
+ July 1754, the Edinburgh Courant advertises the stage-coach drawn by six
+ horses, with a postilion on one of the leaders, as a &lsquo;new, genteel,
+ two-end glass machine, hung on steel springs, exceedingly light and easy,
+ to go in ten days in summer and twelve in winter. Passengers to pay as
+ usual. Performed (if God permits) by your dutiful servant, Hosea Eastgate.
+ CARE IS TAKEN OF SMALL PARCELS ACCORDING TO THEIR VALUE.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It would have been a long, wearisome journey,&rdquo; said I contemplatively;
+ &ldquo;but, nevertheless, I wish we were making it in 1712 instead of a century
+ and three-quarters later.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What would have been happening, Salemina?&rdquo; asked Francesca politely, but
+ with no real desire to know.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The Union had been already established five years,&rdquo; began Salemina
+ intelligently.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Which Union?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Whose Union?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina is used to these interruptions and eruptions of illiteracy on our
+ part. I think she rather enjoys them, as in the presence of such complete
+ ignorance as ours her lamp of knowledge burns all the brighter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Anne was on the throne,&rdquo; she went on, with serene dignity.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What Anne?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I know all about Anne!&rdquo; exclaimed Francesca. &ldquo;She came from the Midnight
+ Sun country, or up that way. She was very extravagant, and had something
+ to do with Jingling Geordie in The Fortunes of Nigel. It is marvellous how
+ one&rsquo;s history comes back to one!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Quite marvellous,&rdquo; said Salemina dryly; &ldquo;or at least the state in which
+ it comes back is marvellous. I am not a stickler for dates, as you know,
+ but if you could only contrive to fix a few periods in your minds, girls,
+ just in a general way, you would not be so shamefully befogged. Your Anne
+ of Denmark, Francesca, was the wife of James VI. of Scotland, who was
+ James I. of England, and she died a hundred years before the Anne I mean,&mdash;the
+ last of the Stuarts, you know. My Anne came after William and Mary, and
+ before the Georges.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Which William and Mary?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What Georges?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But this was too much even for Salemina&rsquo;s equanimity, and she retired
+ behind her book in dignified displeasure, while Francesca and I meekly
+ looked up the Annes in a genealogical table, and tried to decide whether
+ &lsquo;b.1665&rsquo; meant born or beheaded.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter II. Edina, Scotia&rsquo;s Darling Seat.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The weather that greeted us on our unheralded arrival in Scotland was of
+ the precise sort offered by Edinburgh to her unfortunate queen, when,
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;After a youth by woes o&rsquo;ercast,
+ After a thousand sorrows past,
+ The lovely Mary once again
+ Set foot upon her native plain.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ John Knox records of those memorable days: &lsquo;The very face of heaven did
+ manifestlie speak what comfort was brought to this country with hir&mdash;to
+ wit, sorrow, dolour, darkness and all impiety&mdash;for in the memorie of
+ man never was seen a more dolorous face of the heavens than was seen at
+ her arryvall... the myst was so thick that skairse micht onie man espy
+ another; and the sun was not seyn to shyne two days befoir nor two days
+ after.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We could not see Edina&rsquo;s famous palaces and towers because of the haar,
+ that damp, chilling, drizzling, dripping fog or mist which the east wind
+ summons from the sea; but we knew that they were there, shrouded in the
+ heart of that opaque, mysterious greyness, and that before many hours our
+ eyes would feast upon their beauty.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Perhaps it was the weather, but I could think of nothing but poor Queen
+ Mary! She had drifted into my imagination with the haar, so that I could
+ fancy her homesick gaze across the water as she murmured, &lsquo;Adieu, ma chere
+ France! Je ne vous verray jamais plus!&rsquo;&mdash;could fancy her saying as in
+ Allan Cunningham&rsquo;s verse:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The sun rises bright in France,
+ And fair sets he;
+ But he hath tint the blithe blink he had
+ In my ain countree.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ And then I recalled Mary&rsquo;s first good-night in Edinburgh: that &lsquo;serenade
+ of 500 rascals with vile fiddles and rebecks&rsquo;; that singing, &lsquo;in bad
+ accord,&rsquo; of Protestant psalms by the wet crowd beneath the palace windows,
+ while the fires on Arthur&rsquo;s Seat shot flickering gleams of welcome through
+ the dreary fog. What a lullaby for poor Mary, half Frenchwoman and all
+ Papist!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is but just to remember the &lsquo;indefatigable and undissuadable&rsquo; John
+ Knox&rsquo;s statement, &lsquo;the melody lyked her weill, and she willed the same to
+ be continewed some nightis after.&rsquo; For my part, however, I distrust John
+ Knox&rsquo;s musical feeling, and incline sympathetically to the Sieur de
+ Brantome&rsquo;s account, with its &lsquo;vile fiddles&rsquo; and &lsquo;discordant psalms,&rsquo;
+ although his judgment was doubtless a good deal depressed by what he
+ called the si grand brouillard that so dampened the spirits of Mary&rsquo;s
+ French retinue.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Ah well, I was obliged to remember, in order to be reasonably happy
+ myself, that Mary had a gay heart, after all; that she was but nineteen;
+ that, though already a widow, she did not mourn her young husband as one
+ who could not be comforted; and that she must soon have been furnished
+ with merrier music than the psalms, for another of the sour comments of
+ the time is, &lsquo;Our Queen weareth the dule [weeds], but she can dance daily,
+ dule and all!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These were my thoughts as we drove through invisible streets in the
+ Edinburgh haar, turned into what proved next day to be a Crescent, and
+ drew up to an invisible house with a visible number 22 gleaming over a
+ door which gaslight transformed into a probability. We alighted, and
+ though we could scarcely see the driver&rsquo;s outstretched hand, he was quite
+ able to discern a half-crown, and demanded three shillings.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The noise of our cab had brought Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop to the door,&mdash;good (or
+ at least pretty good) Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, to whose apartments we had been
+ commended by English friends who had never occupied them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Dreary as it was without, all was comfortable within-doors, and a cheery
+ (one-and-sixpenny) fire crackled in the grate. Our private drawing-room
+ was charmingly furnished, and so large that, notwithstanding the presence
+ of a piano, two sofas, five small tables, cabinets, desks, and chairs,&mdash;not
+ forgetting a dainty five-o&rsquo;clock tea equipage,&mdash;we might have given a
+ party in the remaining space.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If this is a typical Scotch lodging, I like it; and if it is Scotch
+ hospitality to lay the cloth and make the fire before it is asked for,
+ then I call it simply Arabian in character!&rdquo; and Salemina drew off her
+ damp gloves, and extended her hands to the blaze.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And isn&rsquo;t it delightful that the bill doesn&rsquo;t come in for a whole week?&rdquo;
+ asked Francesca. &ldquo;We have only our English experiences on which to found
+ our knowledge, and all is delicious mystery. The tea may be a present from
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, and the sugar may not be an extra; the fire may be included
+ in the rent of the apartment, and the piano may not be taken away
+ to-morrow to enhance the attractions of the dining-room floor.&rdquo; (It was
+ Francesca, you remember, who had &lsquo;warstled&rsquo; with the itemised accounts at
+ Smith&rsquo;s Private Hotel in London, and she who was always obliged to turn
+ pounds, shillings, and pence into dollars and cents before she could add
+ or subtract.)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Come and look at the flowers in my bedroom,&rdquo; I called, &ldquo;four great boxes
+ full! Mr. Beresford must have ordered the carnations, because he always
+ does; but where did the roses come from, I wonder?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I rang the bell, and a neat white-aproned maid appeared.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Who brought these flowers, please?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Thank you; will you be good enough to ask Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In a moment she returned with the message, &ldquo;There will be a letter in the
+ box, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It seems to me the letter should be in the box now, if it is ever to be,&rdquo;
+ I thought, and I presently drew this card from among the fragrant buds:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;Lady Baird sends these Scotch roses as a small return for the pleasure
+ she has received from Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s pictures. Lady Baird will give
+ herself the pleasure of calling to-morrow; meantime she hopes that Miss
+ Hamilton and her party will dine with her some evening this week.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;How nice!&rdquo; exclaimed Salemina.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The celebrated Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s undistinguished party presents its humble
+ compliments to Lady Baird,&rdquo; chanted Francesca, &ldquo;and having no engagements
+ whatever, and small hope of any, will dine with her on any and every
+ evening she may name. Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s party will wear its best clothes,
+ polish its mental jewels, and endeavour in every possible way not to
+ injure the gifted Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s reputation among the Scottish nobility.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I wrote a hasty note of thanks to Lady Baird, and rang the bell.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Can I send a message, please?&rdquo; I asked the maid.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Will you be good enough to ask Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, please?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Interval; then:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The Boots will tak&rsquo; it at seeven o&rsquo;clock, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Thank you; is Fotheringay Crescent near here?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Thank you; what is your name, please?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I waited in well-grounded anxiety, for I had no idea that she knew her
+ name, or that if she had ever heard it, she could say it; but, to my
+ surprise, she answered almost immediately, &ldquo;Susanna Crum, mam!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What a joy it is in a vexatious world, where things &lsquo;gang aft agley,&rsquo; to
+ find something absolutely right.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If I had devoted years to the subject, having the body of Susanna Crum
+ before my eyes every minute of the time for inspiration, Susanna Crum is
+ what I should have named that maid. Not a vowel could be added, not a
+ consonant omitted. I said so when first I saw her, and weeks of intimate
+ acquaintance only deepened my reverence for the parental genius that had
+ so described her to the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter III. A vision in Princes Street.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ When we awoke next morning the sun had forgotten itself and was shining in
+ at Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s back windows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We should have arisen at once to burn sacrifices and offer oblations, but
+ we had seen the sun frequently in America, and had no idea (poor fools!)
+ that it was anything to be grateful for, so we accepted it, almost without
+ comment, as one of the perennial providences of life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I speak of Edinburgh sunshine I do not mean, of course, any such
+ burning, whole-souled, ardent warmth of beam as one finds in countries
+ where they make a specialty of climate. It is, generally speaking, a
+ half-hearted, uncertain ray, as pale and transitory as a martyr&rsquo;s smile;
+ but its faintest gleam, or its most puerile attempt to gleam, is admired
+ and recorded by its well-disciplined constituency. Not only that, but at
+ the first timid blink of the sun the true Scotsman remarks smilingly, &lsquo;I
+ think now we shall be having settled weather!&rsquo; It is a pathetic optimism,
+ beautiful but quite groundless, and leads one to believe in the story that
+ when Father Noah refused to take Sandy into the ark, he sat down
+ philosophically outside, saying, with a glance at the clouds, &lsquo;Aweel! the
+ day&rsquo;s just aboot the ord&rsquo;nar&rsquo;, an&rsquo; I wouldna won&rsquo;er if we saw the sun
+ afore nicht!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But what loyal son of Edina cares for these transatlantic gibes, and where
+ is the dweller within her royal gates who fails to succumb to the sombre
+ beauty of that old grey town of the North? &lsquo;Grey! why, it is grey or grey
+ and gold, or grey and gold and blue, or grey and gold and blue and green,
+ or grey and gold and blue and green and purple, according as the heaven
+ pleases and you choose your ground! But take it when it is most sombrely
+ grey, where is another such grey city?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So says one of her lovers, and so the great army of lovers would say, had
+ they the same gift of language; for
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Even thus, methinks, a city reared should be,...
+ Yea, an imperial city that might hold
+ Five time a hundred noble towns in fee....
+ Thus should her towers be raised; with vicinage
+ Of clear bold hills, that curve her very streets,
+ As if to indicate, &lsquo;mid choicest seats
+ Of Art, abiding Nature&rsquo;s majesty.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We ate a hasty breakfast that first morning, and prepared to go out for a
+ walk into the great unknown, perhaps the most pleasurable sensation in the
+ world. Francesca was ready first, and, having mentioned the fact several
+ times ostentatiously, she went into the drawing-room to wait and read the
+ Scotsman. When we went thither a few minutes later we found that she had
+ disappeared.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She is below, of course,&rdquo; said Salemina. &ldquo;She fancies that we shall feel
+ more ashamed at our tardiness if we find her sitting on the hall bench in
+ silent martyrdom.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was no one in the hall, however, save Susanna, who inquired if we
+ would see the cook before going out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We have no time now, Susanna,&rdquo; I remarked. &ldquo;We are anxious to have a walk
+ before the weather changes, if possible, but we shall be out for luncheon
+ and in for dinner, and Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop may give us anything she pleases. Do
+ you know where Miss Francesca is?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna s&mdash;-&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Certainly, of course you couldn&rsquo;t; but I wonder if Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop saw
+ her?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop appeared from the basement, and vouchsafed the information
+ that she had seen &lsquo;the young leddy rinnin&rsquo; after the regiment.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Running after the regiment!&rdquo; repeated Salemina automatically. &ldquo;What a
+ reversal of the laws of nature? Why, in Berlin, it was always the regiment
+ that used to run after her!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We learned in what direction the soldiers had gone, and pursuing the same
+ path found the young lady on the corner of a street near by. She was quite
+ unabashed. &ldquo;You don&rsquo;t know what you have missed!&rdquo; she said excitedly. &ldquo;Let
+ us get into this tram, and possibly we can head them off somewhere. They
+ may be going into battle, and if so, my heart&rsquo;s blood is at their service.
+ It is one of those experiences that come only once in a lifetime. There
+ were pipes and there were kilts! (I didn&rsquo;t suppose they ever really wore
+ them outside of the theatre!) When you have seen the kilts swinging,
+ Salemina, you will never be the same woman afterwards! You never expected
+ to see the Olympian gods walking, did you? Perhaps you thought they always
+ sat on practicable rocks and made stiff gestures, from the elbow, as they
+ do in the Wagner operas? Well, these gods walked, if you can call the
+ inspired gait a walk! If there is a single spinster left in Scotland, it
+ is because none of these ever asked her to marry him. Ah, how grateful I
+ ought to be that I am free to say &lsquo;yes&rsquo;, if a kilt ever asks me to be his!
+ Poor Penelope, yoked to your commonplace trousered Beresford! (I wish the
+ tram would go faster!) You must capture one of them, by fair means or
+ foul, Penelope, and Salemina and I will hold him down while you paint him,&mdash;there
+ they are, they are there somewhere, don&rsquo;t you hear them?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There they were indeed, filing down the grassy slopes of the Gardens,
+ swinging across one of the stone bridges, and winding up the Castlehill to
+ the Esplanade like a long glittering snake; the streamers of their
+ Highland bonnets waving, their arms glistening in the sun, and the
+ bagpipes playing &lsquo;The March of the Cameron Men.&rsquo; The pipers themselves
+ were mercifully hidden from us on that first occasion, and it was well,
+ for we could never have borne another feather&rsquo;s weight of ecstasy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was in Princes Street that we had alighted,&mdash;named thus for the
+ prince who afterwards became George IV.&mdash;and I hope he was, and is,
+ properly grateful. It ought never to be called a street, this most
+ magnificent of terraces, and the world has cause to bless that interdict
+ of the Court of Session in 1774 which prevented the Gradgrinds of the day
+ from erecting buildings along its south side,&mdash;a sordid scheme that
+ would have been the very superfluity of naughtiness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was an envious Glasgow body who said grudgingly, as he came out of
+ Waverley Station, and gazed along its splendid length for the first time,
+ &ldquo;Weel, wi&rsquo; a&rsquo; their haverin&rsquo;, it&rsquo;s but half a street onyway!&rdquo;&mdash;which
+ always reminded me of the Western farmer who came from his native plains
+ to the beautiful Berkshire hills. &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve always heard o&rsquo; this scenery,&rdquo; he
+ said. &ldquo;Blamed if I can find any scenery; but if there was, nobody could
+ see it, there&rsquo;s so much high ground in the way!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To think that not so much more than a hundred years ago Princes Street was
+ nought but a straight country road, the &lsquo;Lang Dykes&rsquo; and the &lsquo;Lang Gait,&rsquo;
+ as it was called.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We looked down over the grassy chasm that separates the New from the Old
+ Town; looked our first on Arthur&rsquo;s Seat, that crouching lion of a
+ mountain; saw the Corstorphine Hill, and Calton heights, and Salisbury
+ Crags, and finally that stupendous bluff of rock that culminates so
+ majestically in Edinburgh Castle. There is something else which, like
+ Susanna Crum&rsquo;s name, is absolutely and ideally right! Stevenson calls it
+ one of the most satisfactory crags in nature&mdash;a Bass rock upon dry
+ land, rooted in a garden, shaken by passing trains, carrying a crown of
+ battlements and turrets, and describing its warlike shadow over the
+ liveliest and brightest thoroughfare of the new town. It dominates the
+ whole countryside from water and land. The men who would have the courage
+ to build such a castle in such a spot are all dead; all dead, and the
+ world is infinitely more comfortable without them. They are all gone, and
+ no more like unto them will ever be born, and we can most of us count upon
+ dying safely in our beds, of diseases bred of modern civilisation. But I
+ am glad that those old barbarians, those rudimentary creatures working
+ their way up into the divine likeness, when they were not hanging,
+ drawing, quartering, torturing, and chopping their neighbours, and using
+ their heads in conventional patterns on the tops of gate-posts, did devote
+ their leisure intervals to rearing fortresses like this. Edinburgh Castle
+ could not be conceived, much less built, nowadays, when all our energy is
+ consumed in bettering the condition of the &lsquo;submerged tenth&rsquo;! What did
+ they care about the &lsquo;masses,&rsquo; that &lsquo;regal race that is now no more,&rsquo; when
+ they were hewing those blocks of rugged rock and piling them against the
+ sky-line on the top of that great stone mountain! It amuses me to think
+ how much more picturesque they left the world, and how much better we
+ shall leave it; though if an artist were requested to distribute
+ individual awards to different generations, you could never persuade him
+ to give first prizes to the centuries that produced steam laundries,
+ trolleys, X rays, and sanitary plumbing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What did they reck of Peace Congresses and bloodless arbitrations when
+ they lighted the beacon-fires, flaming out to the gudeman and his sons
+ ploughing or sowing in the Lang Dykes the news that their &lsquo;ancient enemies
+ of England had crossed the Tweed&rsquo;!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I am the most peaceful person in the world, but the Castle was too much
+ for my imagination. I was mounted and off and away from the first moment I
+ gazed upon its embattled towers, heard the pipers in the distance, and saw
+ the Black Watch swinging up the green steps where the huge fortress &lsquo;holds
+ its state.&rsquo; The modern world had vanished, and my steed was galloping,
+ galloping, galloping back into the place-of-the-things-that-are-past,
+ traversing centuries at every leap.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;To arms! Let every banner in Scotland float defiance to the breeze!&rsquo; (So
+ I heard my new-born imaginary spirit say to my real one.) &lsquo;Yes, and let
+ the Deacon Convener unfurl the sacred Blue Blanket, under which every
+ liege burgher of the kingdom is bound to answer summons! The bale-fires
+ are gleaming, giving alarm to Hume, Haddington, Dunbar, Dalkeith, and
+ Eggerhope. Rise, Stirling, Fife, and the North! All Scotland will be under
+ arms in two hours. One bale-fire: the English are in motion! Two: they are
+ advancing! Four in a row: they are of great strength! All men in arms west
+ of Edinburgh muster there! All eastward, at Haddington! And every
+ Englishman caught in Scotland is lawfully the prisoner of whoever takes
+ him!&rsquo; (What am I saying? I love Englishmen, but the spell is upon me!)
+ &lsquo;Come on, Macduff!&rsquo; (The only suitable and familiar challenge my warlike
+ tenant can summon at the moment.) &lsquo;I am the son of a Gael! My dagger is in
+ my belt, and with the guid broadsword at my side I can with one blow cut a
+ man in twain! My bow is cut from the wood of the yews of Glenure; the
+ shaft is from the wood of Lochetive, the feathers from the great golden
+ eagles of Locktreigside! My arrowhead was made by the smiths of the race
+ of Macphedran! Come on, Macduff!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And now a shopkeeper has filled his window with royal Stuart tartans, and
+ I am instantly a Jacobite.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The Highland clans wi&rsquo; sword in hand,
+ Frae John o&rsquo; Groat&rsquo;s to Airly,
+ Hae to a man declar&rsquo;d to stand
+ Or fa&rsquo; wi&rsquo; Royal Charlie.
+
+ &lsquo;Come through the heather, around him gather,
+ Come Ronald, come Donald, come a&rsquo;thegither,
+ And crown your rightfu&rsquo; lawfu&rsquo; king,
+ For wha&rsquo;ll be king but Charlie?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ It is the eve of the battle of Prestonpans. Is it not under the Rock of
+ Dunsappie on yonder Arthur&rsquo;s Seat that our Highland army will encamp
+ to-night? At dusk the prince will hold a council of his chiefs and nobles
+ (I am a chief and a noble), and at daybreak we shall march through the old
+ hedgerows and woods of Duddingston, pipes playing and colours flying,
+ bonnie Charlie at the head, his claymore drawn and the scabbard flung
+ away! (I mean awa&rsquo;!)&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Then here&rsquo;s a health to Charlie&rsquo;s cause,
+ And be&rsquo;t complete an&rsquo; early;
+ His very name my heart&rsquo;s blood warms
+ To arms for Royal Charlie!
+
+ &lsquo;Come through the heather, around him gather,
+ Come Ronald, come Donald, come a&rsquo;thegither,
+ And crown your rightfu&rsquo;, lawfu&rsquo; king,
+ For wha&rsquo;ll be king but Charlie?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I hope that those in authority will never attempt to convene a Peace
+ Congress in Edinburgh, lest the influence of the Castle be too strong for
+ the delegates. They could not resist it nor turn their backs upon it,
+ since, unlike other ancient fortresses, it is but a stone&rsquo;s-throw from the
+ front windows of all the hotels. They might mean never so well, but they
+ would end by buying dirk hat-pins and claymore brooches for their wives,
+ their daughters would all run after the kilted regiment and marry as many
+ of the pipers as asked them, and before night they would all be shouting
+ with the noble FitzEustace&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Where&rsquo;s the coward who would not dare
+ To fight for such a land?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ While I was rhapsodising, Salemina and Francesca were shopping in the
+ Arcade, buying some of the cairngorms, and Tam O&rsquo;Shanter purses, and
+ models of Burns&rsquo;s cottage, and copies of Marmion in plaided covers, and
+ thistle belt-buckles, and bluebell penwipers, with which we afterwards
+ inundated our native land. When my warlike mood had passed, I sat down
+ upon the steps of the Scott monument and watched the passers-by in a sort
+ of waking dream. I suppose they were the usual professors and doctors and
+ ministers who are wont to walk up and down the Edinburgh streets, with a
+ sprinkling of lairds and leddies of high degree and a few Americans
+ looking at the shop windows to choose their clan tartans; but for me they
+ did not exist. In their places stalked the ghosts of kings and queens and
+ knights and nobles; Columba, Abbot of Iona; Queen Margaret and Malcolm&mdash;she
+ the sweetest saint in all the throng; King David riding towards Drumsheugh
+ forest on Holy Rood day, with his horns and hounds and huntsmen following
+ close behind; Anne of Denmark and Jingling Geordie; Mary Stuart in all her
+ girlish beauty, with the four Maries in her train; and lurking behind,
+ Bothwell, &lsquo;that ower sune stepfaither,&rsquo; and the murdered Rizzio and
+ Darnley; John Knox, in his black Geneva cloak; Bonnie Prince Charlie and
+ Flora Macdonald; lovely Annabella Drummond; Robert the Bruce; George
+ Heriot with a banner bearing on it the words &lsquo;I distribute chearfully&rsquo;;
+ James I. carrying The King&rsquo;s Quair; Oliver Cromwell; and a long line of
+ heroes, martyrs, humble saints, and princely knaves.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Behind them, regardless of precedence, came the Ploughman Poet and the
+ Ettrick Shepherd, Boswell and Dr. Johnson, Dr. John Brown and Thomas
+ Carlyle, Lady Nairne and Drummond of Hawthornden, Allan Ramsay and Sir
+ Walter; and is it not a proof of the Wizard&rsquo;s magic art, that side by side
+ with the wraiths of these real people walked, or seemed to walk, the Fair
+ Maid of Perth, Jeanie Deans, Meg Merrilies, Guy Mannering, Ellen, Marmion,
+ and a host of others so sweetly familiar and so humanly dear that the very
+ street-laddies could have named and greeted them as they passed by?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter IV. Susanna Crum cudna say.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Life at Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s apartments in 22 Breadalbane Terrace is about as
+ simple, comfortable, dignified, and delightful as it well can be.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop herself is neat, thrifty, precise, tolerably genial, and
+ &lsquo;verra releegious.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Her partner, who is also the cook, is a person introduced to us as Miss
+ Diggity. We afterwards learned that this is spelled Dalgety, but it is not
+ considered good form, in Scotland, to pronounce the names of persons and
+ places as they are written. When, therefore, I allude to the cook, which
+ will be as seldom as possible, I shall speak of her as Miss
+ Diggity-Dalgety, so that I shall be presenting her correctly both to the
+ eye and to the ear, and giving her at the same time a hyphenated name, a
+ thing which is a secret object of aspiration in Great Britain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In selecting our own letters and parcels from the common stock on the hall
+ table, I perceive that most of our fellow-lodgers are hyphenated ladies,
+ whose visiting-cards diffuse the intelligence that in their single persons
+ two ancient families and fortunes are united. On the ground floor are the
+ Misses Hepburn-Sciennes (pronounced Hebburn-Sheens); on the floor above us
+ are Miss Colquhoun (Cohoon) and her cousin Miss Cockburn-Sinclair
+ (Coburn-Sinkler). As soon as the Hepburn-Sciennes depart, Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop
+ expects Mrs. Menzies of Kilconquhar, of whom we shall speak as Mrs.
+ Mingess of Kinyuchar. There is not a man in the house; even the Boots is a
+ girl, so that 22 Breadalbane Terrace is as truly a castra puellarum as was
+ ever the Castle of Edinburgh with its maiden princesses in the olden time.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We talked with Miss Diggity-Dalgety on the evening of our first day at
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s, when she came up to know our commands. As Francesca and
+ Salemina were both in the room, I determined to be as Scotch as possible,
+ for it is Salemina&rsquo;s proud boast that she is taken for a native of every
+ country she visits.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We shall not be entertaining at present, Miss Diggity,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;so you
+ can give us just the ordinary dishes,&mdash;no doubt you are accustomed to
+ them: scones, baps or bannocks with marmalade, finnan-haddie or kippered
+ herring for breakfast; tea,&mdash;of course we never touch coffee in the
+ morning&rdquo; (here Francesca started with surprise); &ldquo;porridge, and we like
+ them well boiled, please&rdquo; (I hope she noted the plural pronoun; Salemina
+ did, and blanched with envy); &ldquo;minced collops for luncheon, or a nice
+ little black-faced chop; Scotch broth, pease brose or cockyleekie soup at
+ dinner, and haggis now and then, with a cold shape for dessert. That is
+ about the sort of thing we are accustomed to,&mdash;just plain Scotch
+ living.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was impressing Miss Diggity-Dalgety,&mdash;I could see that clearly; but
+ Francesca spoiled the effect by inquiring, maliciously, if we could
+ sometimes have a howtowdy wi&rsquo; drappit eggs, or her favourite dish, wee
+ grumphie wi&rsquo; neeps.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here Salemina was obliged to poke the fire in order to conceal her smiles,
+ and the cook probably suspected that Francesca found howtowdy in the
+ Scotch glossary; but we amused each other vastly, and that is our
+ principal object in life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Miss Diggity-Dalgety&rsquo;s forebears must have been exposed to foreign
+ influences, for she interlards her culinary conversation with French
+ terms, and we have discovered that this is quite common. A &lsquo;jigget&rsquo; of
+ mutton is of course a gigot, and we have identified an &lsquo;ashet&rsquo; as an
+ assiette. The &lsquo;petticoat tails&rsquo; she requested me to buy at the
+ confectioner&rsquo;s were somewhat more puzzling, but when they were finally
+ purchased by Susanna Crum they appeared to be ordinary little cakes;
+ perhaps, therefore, petits gastels, since gastel is an old form of gateau,
+ as was bel for beau. Susanna, on her part, speaks of the wardrobe in my
+ bedroom as an &lsquo;awmry.&rsquo; It certainly contains no weapons, so cannot be an
+ armoury, and we conjecture that her word must be a corruption of armoire.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That was a remarkable touch about the black-faced chop,&rdquo; laughed
+ Salemina, when Miss Diggity-Dalgety had retired; &ldquo;not that I believe they
+ ever say it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am sure they must,&rdquo; I asserted stoutly, &ldquo;for I passed a flesher&rsquo;s on my
+ way home, and saw a sign with &lsquo;Prime Black-Faced Mutton&rsquo; printed on it. I
+ also saw &lsquo;Fed Veal,&rsquo; but I forgot to ask the cook for it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We ought really to have kept house in Edinburgh,&rdquo; observed Francesca,
+ looking up from the Scotsman. &ldquo;One can get a &lsquo;self-contained residential
+ flat&rsquo; for twenty pounds a month. We are such an enthusiastic trio that a
+ self-contained flat would be everything to us; and if it were not fully
+ furnished, here is a firm that wishes to sell a &lsquo;composite bed&rsquo; for six
+ pounds, and a &lsquo;gent&rsquo;s stuffed easy&rsquo; for five. Added to these inducements
+ there is somebody who advertises that parties who intend &lsquo;displenishing&rsquo;
+ at the Whit Term would do well to consult him, as he makes a specialty of
+ second-handed furniture and &lsquo;cyclealities.&rsquo; What are &lsquo;cyclealities,&rsquo;
+ Susanna?&rdquo; (She had just come in with coals.)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Thank you; no, you need not ask Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop; it is of no consequence.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Susanna Crum is a most estimable young woman, clean, respectful, willing,
+ capable, and methodical, but as a Bureau of Information she is painfully
+ inadequate. Barring this single limitation she seems to be a
+ treasure-house of all good practical qualities; and being thus clad and
+ panoplied in virtue, why should she be so timid and self-distrustful?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She wears an expression which can mean only one of two things: either she
+ has heard of the national tomahawk and is afraid of violence on our part,
+ or else her mother was frightened before she was born. This applies in
+ general to her walk and voice and manner, but is it fear that prompts her
+ eternal &lsquo;I cudna say,&rsquo; or is it perchance Scotch caution and prudence? Is
+ she afraid of projecting her personality too indecently far? Is it the
+ indirect effect of heresy trials on her imagination? Does she remember the
+ thumbscrew of former generations? At all events, she will neither affirm
+ nor deny, and I am putting her to all sorts of tests, hoping to discover
+ finally whether she is an accident, an exaggeration, or a type.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina thinks that our American accent may confuse her. Of course she
+ means Francesca&rsquo;s and mine, for she has none; although we have tempered
+ ours so much for the sake of the natives, that we can scarcely understand
+ each other any more. As for Susanna&rsquo;s own accent, she comes from the heart
+ of Aberdeenshire, and her intonation is beyond my power to reproduce.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We naturally wish to identify all the national dishes; so, &ldquo;Is this cockle
+ soup, Susanna?&rdquo; I ask her, as she passes me the plate at dinner.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;This vegetable is new to me, Susanna; is it perhaps sea-kale?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I canna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then finally, in despair, as she handed me a boiled potato one day, I
+ fixed my searching Yankee brown eyes on her blue-Presbyterian,
+ non-committal ones, and asked, &ldquo;What is this vegetable, Susanna?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In an instant she withdrew herself, her soul, her ego, so utterly that I
+ felt myself gazing at an inscrutable stone image, as she replied, &ldquo;I cudna
+ say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This was too much! Her mother may have been frightened, very badly
+ frightened, but this was more that I could endure without protest. The
+ plain boiled potato is practically universal. It is not only common to all
+ temperate climates, but it has permeated all classes of society. I am
+ confident that the plain boiled potato has been one of the chief
+ constituents in the building up of that frame in which Susanna Crum
+ conceals her opinions and emotions. I remarked, therefore, as an, apparent
+ afterthought, &ldquo;Why, it is a potato, is it not, Susanna?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What do you think she replied, when thus hunted into a corner, pushed
+ against a wall, driven to the very confines of her personal and national
+ liberty? She subjected the potato to a second careful scrutiny, and
+ answered, &ldquo;I wudna say it&rsquo;s no&rsquo;!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now there is no inherited physical terror in this. It is the concentrated
+ essence of intelligent reserve, caution, and obstinacy; it is a conscious
+ intellectual hedging; it is a dogged and determined attempt to build up
+ barriers of defence between the questioner and the questionee: it must be,
+ therefore, the offspring of the catechism and the heresy trial.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Once again, after establishing an equally obvious fact, I succeeded in
+ wringing from her the reluctant admission, &ldquo;It depends,&rdquo; but she was so
+ shattered by the bulk and force of this outgo, so fearful that in some way
+ she had imperilled her life or reputation, so anxious concerning the
+ effect that her unwilling testimony might have upon unborn generations,
+ that she was of no real service the rest of the day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I wish that the Lord Advocate, or some modern counterpart of Braxfield,
+ the hanging judge, would summon Susanna Crum as a witness in an important
+ case. He would need his longest plummet to sound the depths of her
+ consciousness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have had no legal experience, but I can imagine the scene.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Is the prisoner your father, Susanna Crum?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, my lord.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You have not understood the question, Susanna. Is the prisoner your
+ father?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, my lord.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Come, come, my girl! you must answer the questions put you by the court.
+ You have been an inmate of the prisoner&rsquo;s household since your earliest
+ consciousness. He provided you with food, lodging, and clothing during
+ your infancy and early youth. You have seen him on annual visits to your
+ home, and watched him as he performed the usual parental functions for
+ your younger brothers and sisters. I therefore repeat, is the prisoner
+ your father, Susanna Crum?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I wudna say he&rsquo;s no&rsquo;, my lord.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;This is really beyond credence! What do you conceive to be the idea
+ involved in the word &lsquo;father,&rsquo; Susanna Crum?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It depends, my lord.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And this, a few hundred years earlier, would have been the natural and
+ effective moment for the thumbscrews.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I do not wish to be understood as defending these uncomfortable
+ appliances. They would never have been needed to elicit information from
+ me, for I should have spent my nights inventing matter to confess in the
+ daytime. I feel sure that I should have poured out such floods of
+ confessions and retractations that if all Scotland had been one listening
+ ear it could not have heard my tale. I am only wondering if, in the
+ extracting of testimony from the common mind, the thumbscrew might not
+ have been more necessary with some nations than with others.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter V. We emulate the Jackdaw.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Invitations had been pouring in upon us since the delivery of our letters
+ of introduction, and it was now the evening of our debut in Edinburgh
+ society. Francesca had volunteered to perform the task of leaving cards,
+ ordering a private victoria for the purpose, and arraying herself in
+ purple and fine linen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Much depends upon the first impression,&rdquo; she had said. &ldquo;Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s
+ &lsquo;party&rsquo; may not be gifted, but it is well-dressed. My hope is that some of
+ our future hostesses will be looking from the second-story front-windows.
+ If they are, I can assure them in advance that I shall be a national
+ advertisement.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is needless to remark that as it began to rain heavily as she was
+ leaving the house, she was obliged to send back the open carriage, and
+ order, to save time, one of the public cabs from the stand in the Terrace.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Would you mind having the lamiter, being first in line?&rdquo; asked Susanna of
+ Salemina, who had transmitted the command.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Salemina fails to understand anything, the world is kept in complete
+ ignorance.&mdash;Least of all would she stoop to ask a humble maidservant
+ to translate the vernacular of the country; so she replied affably,
+ &ldquo;Certainly, Susanna, that is the kind we always prefer. I suppose it is
+ covered?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca did not notice, until her coachman alighted to deliver the first
+ letter and cards, that he had one club foot and one wooden leg; it was
+ then that the full significance of &lsquo;lamiter&rsquo; came to her. He was covered,
+ however, as Salemina had supposed, and the occurrence gave us a precious
+ opportunity of chaffing that dungeon of learning. He was tolerably alert
+ and vigorous, too, although he certainly did not impart elegance to a
+ vehicle, and he knew every street in the court end of Edinburgh, and every
+ close and wynd in the Old Town. On this our first meeting with him, he
+ faltered only when Francesca asked him last of all to drive to &lsquo;Kildonan
+ House, Helmsdale&rsquo;; supposing, not unnaturally, that it was as well known
+ an address as Morningside House, Tipperlinn, whence she had just come. The
+ lamiter had never heard of Kildonan House nor of Helmsdale, and he had
+ driven in the streets of Auld Reekie for thirty years. None of the drivers
+ whom he consulted could supply any information; Susanna Crum cudna say
+ that she had ever heard of it, nor could Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, nor could Miss
+ Diggity-Dalgety. It was reserved for Lady Baird to explain that Helmsdale
+ was two hundred and eighty miles north, and that Kildonan House was ten
+ miles from the Helmsdale railway station, so that the poor lamiter would
+ have had a weary drive even had he known the way. The friends who had
+ given us letters to Mr. and Mrs. Jameson-Inglis (Jimmyson-Ingals) must
+ have expected us either to visit John o&rsquo; Groats on the northern border,
+ and drop in on Kildonan House en route, or to send our note of
+ introduction by post and await an invitation to pass the summer. At all
+ events, the anecdote proved very pleasing to our Edinburgh acquaintances.
+ I hardly know whether, if they should visit America, they would enjoy
+ tales of their own stupidity as hugely as they did the tales of ours, but
+ they really were very appreciative in this particular, and it is but
+ justice to ourselves to say that we gave them every opportunity for
+ enjoyment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But I must go back to our first grand dinner in Scotland. We were dressed
+ at quarter-past seven, when, in looking at the invitation again, we
+ discovered that the dinner-hour was eight o&rsquo;clock, not seven-thirty.
+ Susanna did not happen to know the exact approximate distance to
+ Fotheringay Crescent, but the maiden Boots affirmed that it was only two
+ minutes&rsquo; drive, so we sat down in front of the fire to chat.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was Lady Baird&rsquo;s birthday feast to which we had been bidden, and we had
+ done our best to honour the occasion. We had prepared a large bouquet tied
+ with the Maclean tartan (Lady Baird is a Maclean), and had printed in gold
+ letters on one of the ribbons, &lsquo;Another for Hector,&rsquo; the battle-cry of the
+ clan. We each wore a sprig of holly, because it is the badge of the
+ family, while I added a girdle and shoulder-knot of tartan velvet to my
+ pale green gown, and borrowed Francesca&rsquo;s emerald necklace,&mdash;persuading
+ her that she was too young to wear such jewels in the old country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca was miserably envious that she had not thought of tartans first.
+ &ldquo;You may consider yourself &lsquo;geyan fine,&rsquo; all covered over with Scotch
+ plaid, but I wouldn&rsquo;t be so &lsquo;kenspeckle&rsquo; for worlds!&rdquo; she said, using
+ expressions borrowed from Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop; &ldquo;and as for disguising your
+ nationality, do not flatter yourself that you look like anything but an
+ American. I forgot to tell you the conversation I overheard in the tram
+ this morning, between a mother and daughter, who were talking about us, I
+ dare say. &lsquo;Have they any proper frocks for so large a party, Bella?&rsquo; asked
+ the mother.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;I thought I explained in the beginning, mamma, that they are Americans.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Still, you know they are only travelling,&mdash;just passing through, as
+ it were; they may not be familiar with our customs, and we do want our
+ party to be a smart one.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Wait until you see them, mamma, and you will probably feel like hiding
+ your diminished head! It is my belief that if an American lady takes a
+ half-hour journey in a tram she carries full evening dress and a diamond
+ necklace, in case anything should happen on the way. I am not in the least
+ nervous about their appearance. I only hope that they will not be too
+ exuberant; American girls are so frightfully vivacious and informal, I
+ always feel as if I were being taken by the throat!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;A picturesque, though rather vigorous expression; however, it does no
+ harm to be perfectly dressed,&rdquo; said Salemina consciously, putting a steel
+ embroidered slipper on the fender and settling the holly in the silver
+ folds of her gown; &ldquo;then when they discover that we are all well bred, and
+ that one of us is intelligent, it will be the more credit to the country
+ that gave us birth.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course it is impossible to tell what country did give YOU birth,&rdquo;
+ retorted Francesca, &ldquo;but that will only be to your advantage&mdash;away
+ from home!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca is inflexibly, almost aggressively American, but Salemina is a
+ citizen of the world. If the United States should be involved in a war, I
+ am confident that Salemina would be in front with the other Gatling guns,
+ for in that case a principle would be at stake; but in all lesser matters
+ she is extremely unprejudiced. She prefers German music, Italian climate,
+ French dressmakers, English tailors, Japanese manners, and American&mdash;American
+ something&mdash;I have forgotten just what; it is either the ice-cream
+ soda or the form of government,&mdash;I can&rsquo;t remember which.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I wonder why they named it &lsquo;Fotheringay&rsquo; Crescent,&rdquo; mused Francesca.
+ &ldquo;Some association with Mary Stuart, of course. Poor, poor, pretty lady! A
+ free queen only six years, and think of the number of beds she slept in,
+ and the number of trees she planted; we have already seen, I am afraid to
+ say how many. When did she govern, when did she scheme, above all when did
+ she flirt, with all this racing and chasing over the country? Mrs.
+ M&rsquo;Collop calls Anne of Denmark a &lsquo;sad scattercash&rsquo; and Mary an &lsquo;awfu&rsquo;
+ gadabout,&rsquo; and I am inclined to agree with her. By the way, when she was
+ making my bed this morning, she told me that her mother claimed descent
+ from the Stewarts of Appin, whoever they may be. She apologised for Queen
+ Mary&rsquo;s defects as if she were a distant family connection. If so, then the
+ famous Stuart charm has been lost somewhere, for Mrs M&rsquo;Collop certainly
+ possesses no alluring curves of temperament.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going to select some distinguished ancestors this very minute,
+ before I go to my first Edinburgh dinner,&rdquo; said I decidedly. &ldquo;It seems
+ hard that ancestors should have everything to do with settling our
+ nationality and our position in life, and we not have a word to say. How
+ nice it would be to select one&rsquo;s own after one had arrived at years of
+ discretion, or to adopt different ones according to the country one
+ chanced to be visiting! I am going to do it; it is unusual, but there must
+ be a pioneer in every good movement. Let me think: do help me, Salemina! I
+ am a Hamilton to begin with; I might be descended from the logical Sir
+ William himself, and thus become the idol of the university set!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He died only about thirty years ago, and you would have to be his
+ daughter: that would never do,&rdquo; said Salemina. &ldquo;Why don&rsquo;t you take Thomas
+ Hamilton, Earl of Melrose and Haddington? He was Secretary of State,
+ King&rsquo;s Advocate, Lord President of the Court of Session, and all sorts of
+ fine things. He was the one King James used to call &lsquo;Tam o&rsquo; the Cowgate&rsquo;!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perfectly delightful! I don&rsquo;t care so much about his other titles, but
+ &lsquo;Tam o&rsquo; the Cowgate&rsquo; is irresistible. I will take him. He was my&mdash;what
+ was he?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He was at least your great-great-great-great-grandfather; that is a safe
+ distance. Then there&rsquo;s that famous Jenny Geddes, who flung her fauld-stule
+ at the Dean in St. Giles&rsquo;,&mdash;she was a Hamilton too, if you fancy
+ her!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, I&rsquo;ll take her with pleasure,&rdquo; I responded thankfully. &ldquo;Of course I
+ don&rsquo;t know why she flung the stool,&mdash;it may have been very
+ reprehensible; but there is always good stuff in stool-flingers; it&rsquo;s the
+ sort of spirit one likes to inherit in diluted form. Now, whom will you
+ take?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I haven&rsquo;t even a peg on which to hang a Scottish ancestor,&rdquo; said Salemina
+ disconsolately.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, nonsense! think harder. Anybody will do as a starting-point; only you
+ must be honourable and really show relationship, as I did with Jenny and
+ Tam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;My aunt Mary-Emma married a Lindsay,&rdquo; ventured Salemina hesitatingly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That will do,&rdquo; I answered delightedly.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;The Gordons gay in English blude
+ They wat their hose and shoon;
+ The Lindsays flew like fire aboot
+ Till a&rsquo; the fray was dune.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You can play that you are one of the famous &lsquo;licht Lindsays,&rsquo; and you can
+ look up the particular ancestor in your big book. Now, Francesca, it&rsquo;s
+ your turn!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am American to the backbone,&rdquo; she declared, with insufferable dignity.
+ &ldquo;I do not desire any foreign ancestors.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Francesca!&rdquo; I expostulated. &ldquo;Do you mean to tell me that you can dine
+ with a lineal descendant of Sir Fitzroy Donald Maclean, Baronet, of Duart
+ and Morven, and not make any effort to trace your genealogy back further
+ than your parents?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If you goad me to desperation,&rdquo; she answered, &ldquo;I will wear an American
+ flag in my hair, declare that my father is a Red Indian, or a pork-packer,
+ and talk about the superiority of our checking system and hotels all the
+ evening. I don&rsquo;t want to go, any way. It is sure to be stiff and
+ ceremonious, and the man who takes me in will ask me the population of
+ Chicago and the amount of wheat we exported last year,&mdash;he always
+ does.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I can&rsquo;t see why he should,&rdquo; said I. &ldquo;I am sure you don&rsquo;t look as if you
+ knew.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;My looks have thus far proved no protection,&rdquo; she replied sadly.
+ &ldquo;Salemina is so flexible, and you are so dramatic, that you enter into all
+ these experiences with zest. You already more than half believe in that
+ Tam o&rsquo; the Cowgate story. But there&rsquo;ll be nothing for me in Edinburgh
+ society; it will be all clergymen&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ministers&rdquo; interjected Salemina,&mdash;&ldquo;all ministers and professors. My
+ Redfern gowns will be unappreciated, and my Worth evening frocks worse
+ than wasted!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There are a few thousand medical students,&rdquo; I said encouragingly, &ldquo;and
+ all the young advocates, and a sprinkling of military men&mdash;they know
+ Worth frocks.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And,&rdquo; continued Salemina bitingly, &ldquo;there will always be, even in an
+ intellectual city like Edinburgh, a few men who continue to escape all the
+ developing influences about them, and remain commonplace, conventional
+ manikins, devoted to dancing and flirting. Never fear, they will find
+ you!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This sounds harsh, but nobody minds Salemina, least of all Francesca, who
+ well knows that she is the apple of that spinster&rsquo;s eye. But at this
+ moment Susanna opens the door (timorously, as if there might be a panther
+ behind it) and announces the cab (in the same tone in which she would
+ announce the beast); we pick up our draperies, and are whirled off by the
+ lamiter to dine with the Scottish nobility.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VI. Edinburgh society, past and present.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Wha last beside his chair shall fa&rsquo;
+ He is the king amang us three!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ It was the Princess Dashkoff who said, in the latter part of the
+ eighteenth century, that of all the societies of men of talent she had met
+ with in her travels, Edinburgh&rsquo;s was the first in point of abilities.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One might make the same remark to-day, perhaps, and not depart widely from
+ the truth. One does not find, however, as many noted names as are
+ associated with the annals of the Cape and Poker Clubs or the Crochallan
+ Fencibles, those famous groups of famous men who met for relaxation (and
+ intoxication, I should think) at the old Isle of Man Arms or in Dawney&rsquo;s
+ Tavern in the Anchor Close. These groups included such shining lights as
+ Robert Fergusson the poet, and Adam Ferguson the historian and
+ philosopher, Gavin Wilson, Sir Henry Raeburn, David Hume, Erskine, Lords
+ Newton, Gillies, Monboddo, Hailes, Kames, Henry Mackenzie, and the
+ Ploughman Poet himself, who has kept alive the memory of the Crochallans
+ in many a jovial verse like that in which he describes Smellie, the
+ eccentric philosopher and printer:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Shrewd Willie Smellie to Crochallan came,
+ The old cocked hat, the grey surtout the same,
+ His bristling beard just rising in its might;
+ &lsquo;Twas four long nights and days to shaving night&rsquo;;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ or in the characteristic picture of William Dunbar, a wit of the time, and
+ the merriest of the Fencibles:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;As I cam by Crochallan
+ I cannily keekit ben;
+ Rattlin&rsquo;, roarin&rsquo; Willie
+ Was sitting at yon boord en&rsquo;;
+ Sitting at yon boord en&rsquo;,
+ And amang guid companie!
+ Rattlin&rsquo;, roarin&rsquo; Willie,
+ Ye&rsquo;re welcome hame to me!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ or in the verses on Creech, Burns&rsquo;s publisher, who left Edinburgh for a
+ time in 1789. The &lsquo;Willies,&rsquo; by the way, seem to be especially inspiring
+ to the Scottish balladists.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Oh, Willie was a witty wight,
+ And had o&rsquo; things an unco slight!
+ Auld Reekie aye he keepit tight
+ And trig and braw;
+ But now they&rsquo;ll busk her like a fright&mdash;
+ Willie&rsquo;s awa&rsquo;!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I think perhaps the gatherings of the present time are neither quite as
+ gay nor quite as brilliant as those of Burns&rsquo;s day, when
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Willie brewed a peck o&rsquo; maut,
+ An&rsquo; Rob an&rsquo; Allan cam to pree&rsquo;;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ but the ideal standard of those meetings seems to be voiced in the lines:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Wha last beside his chair shall fa&rsquo;,
+ He is the king amang us three!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ As they sit in their chairs nowadays to the very end of the feast, there
+ is doubtless joined with modern sobriety a soupcon of modern dulness and
+ discretion.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To an American the great charm of Edinburgh is its leisurely atmosphere:
+ &lsquo;not the leisure of a village arising from the deficiency of ideas and
+ motives, but the leisure of a city reposing grandly on tradition and
+ history; which has done its work, and does not require to weave its own
+ clothing, to dig its own coals, or smelt its own iron.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We were reminded of this more than once, and it never failed to depress us
+ properly. If one had ever lived in Pittsburg, Fall River, or Kansas City,
+ I should think it would be almost impossible to maintain self-respect in a
+ place like Edinburgh, where the citizens &lsquo;are released from the
+ vulgarising dominion of the hour.&rsquo; Whenever one of Auld Reekie&rsquo;s great men
+ took this tone with me, I always felt as though I were the germ in a
+ half-hatched egg, and he were an aged and lordly cock gazing at me
+ pityingly through my shell. He, lucky creature, had lived through all the
+ struggles which I was to undergo; he, indeed, was released from &lsquo;the
+ vulgarising dominion of the hour&rsquo;; but I, poor thing, must grow and grow,
+ and keep pecking at my shell, in order to achieve existence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Sydney Smith says in one of his letters, &lsquo;Never shall I forget the happy
+ days passed there [in Edinburgh], amidst odious smells, barbarous sounds,
+ bad suppers, excellent hearts, and the most enlightened and cultivated
+ understandings.&rsquo; His only criticism of the conversation of that day
+ (1797-1802) concerned itself with the prevalence of that form of Scotch
+ humour which was called wut; and with the disputations and dialectics. We
+ were more fortunate than Sydney Smith, because Edinburgh has outgrown its
+ odious smells, barbarous sounds, and bad suppers and, wonderful to relate,
+ has kept its excellent hearts and its enlightened and cultivated
+ understandings. As for mingled wut and dialectics, where can one find a
+ better foundation for dinner-table conversation?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The hospitable board itself presents no striking differences from our own,
+ save the customs of serving sweets in soup-plates with dessert-spoons, of
+ a smaller number of forks on parade, of the invariable fish-knife at each
+ plate, of the prevalent &lsquo;savoury&rsquo; and &lsquo;cold shape,&rsquo; and the unusual grace
+ and skill with which the hostess carves. Even at very large dinners one
+ occasionally sees a lady of high degree severing the joints of chickens
+ and birds most daintily, while her lord looks on in happy idleness,
+ thinking, perhaps, how greatly times have changed for the better since the
+ ages of strife and bloodshed, when Scottish nobles
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Carved at the meal with gloves of steel,
+ And drank their wine through helmets barred.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Scotch butler is not in the least like an English one. No man could be
+ as respectable as he looks, not even an elder of the kirk, whom he
+ resembles closely. He hands your plate as if it were a contribution-box,
+ and in his moments of ease, when he stands behind the &lsquo;maister,&rsquo; I am
+ always expecting him to pronounce a benediction. The English butler, when
+ he wishes to avoid the appearance of listening to the conversation, gazes
+ with level eye into vacancy; the Scotch butler looks distinctly
+ heavenward, as if he were brooding on the principle of co-ordinate
+ jurisdiction with mutual subordination. It would be impossible for me to
+ deny the key of the wine-cellar to a being so steeped in sanctity, but it
+ has been done, I am told, in certain rare and isolated cases.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As for toilets, the men dress like all other men (alas, and alas, that we
+ should say it, for we were continually hoping for a kilt!) though there
+ seems to be no survival of the finical Lord Napier&rsquo;s spirit. Perhaps you
+ remember that Lord and Lady Napier arrived at Castlemilk in Lanarkshire
+ with the intention of staying a week, but announced next morning that a
+ circumstance had occurred which rendered it indispensable to return
+ without delay to their seat in Selkirkshire. This was the only explanation
+ given, but it was afterwards discovered that Lord Napier&rsquo;s valet had
+ committed the grievous mistake of packing up a set of neckcloths which did
+ not correspond IN POINT OF DATE with the shirts they accompanied!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The ladies of the &lsquo;smart set&rsquo; in Edinburgh wear French fripperies and
+ chiffons, as do their sisters every where, but the other women of society
+ dress a trifle more staidly than their cousins in London, Paris, or New
+ York. The sobriety of taste and severity of style that characterise
+ Scotswomen may be due, like Susanna Crum&rsquo;s dubieties, to the haar, to the
+ shorter catechism, or perhaps in some degree to the presence of three
+ branches of the Presbyterian Church among them; the society that bears in
+ its bosom three separate and antagonistic kinds of Presbyterianism at the
+ same time must have its chilly moments.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In Lord Cockburn&rsquo;s time the &lsquo;dames of high and aristocratic breed&rsquo; must
+ have been sufficiently awake to feminine frivolities to be both gorgeously
+ and extravagantly arrayed. I do not know in all literature a more
+ delicious and lifelike word-portrait than Lord Cockburn gives of Mrs.
+ Rochead, the Lady of Inverleith, in the Memorials. It is quite worthy to
+ hang beside a Raeburn canvas; one can scarce say more.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;Except Mrs. Siddons in some of her displays of magnificent royalty,
+ nobody could sit down like the Lady of Inverleith. She would sail like a
+ ship from Tarshish, gorgeous in velvet or rustling silk, done up in all
+ the accompaniments of fans, ear-rings, and finger-rings, falling sleeves,
+ scent-bottle, embroidered bag, hoop, and train; managing all this
+ seemingly heavy rigging with as much ease as a full-blown swan does its
+ plumage. She would take possession of the centre of a large sofa, and at
+ the same moment, without the slightest visible exertion, cover the whole
+ of it with her bravery, the graceful folds seeming to lay themselves over
+ it, like summer waves. The descent from her carriage, too, where she sat
+ like a nautilus in its shell, was a display which no one in these days
+ could accomplish or even fancy. The mulberry-coloured coach, apparently
+ not too large for what it contained, though she alone was in it; the
+ handsome, jolly coachman and his splendid hammer-cloth loaded with lace;
+ the two respectful liveried footmen, one on each side of the richly
+ carpeted step,&mdash;these were lost sight of amidst the slow majesty with
+ which the Lady of Inverleith came down and touched the earth.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ My right-hand neighbour at Lady Baird&rsquo;s dinner was surprised at my quoting
+ Lord Cockburn. One&rsquo;s attendant squires here always seem surprised when one
+ knows anything; but they are always delighted, too, so that the amazement
+ is less trying. True, I had read the Memorials only the week before, and
+ had never heard of them previous to that time; but that detail, according
+ to my theories, makes no real difference. The woman who knows how and when
+ to &lsquo;read up,&rsquo; who reads because she wants to be in sympathy with a new
+ environment; the woman who has wit and perspective enough to be stimulated
+ by novel conditions and kindled by fresh influences, who is susceptible to
+ the vibrations of other people&rsquo;s history, is safe to be fairly intelligent
+ and extremely agreeable, if only she is sufficiently modest. I think my
+ neighbour found me thoroughly delightful after he discovered my point of
+ view. He was an earl; and it always takes an earl a certain length of time
+ to understand me. I scarcely know why, for I certainly should not think it
+ courteous to interpose any real barriers between the nobility and that
+ portion of the &lsquo;masses&rsquo; represented in my humble person.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seemed to me at first that the earl did not apply himself to the study
+ of my national peculiarities with much assiduity, but wasted considerable
+ time in gazing at Francesca, who was opposite. She is certainly very
+ handsome, and I never saw her lovelier than at that dinner; her eyes were
+ like stars, and her cheeks and lips a splendid crimson, for she was
+ quarrelling with her attendant cavalier about the relative merits of
+ Scotland and America, and they apparently ceased to speak to each other
+ after the salad.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When the earl had sufficiently piqued me by his devotion to his dinner and
+ his glances at Francesca, I began a systematic attempt to achieve his
+ (transient) subjugation. Of course I am ardently attached to Willie
+ Beresford and prefer him to any earl in Britain, but one&rsquo;s self-respect
+ demands something in the way of food. I could see Salemina at the far end
+ of the table radiant with success, the W.S. at her side bending ever and
+ anon to catch the (artificial) pearls of thought that dropped from her
+ lips. &ldquo;Miss Hamilton appears simple&rdquo; (I thought I heard her say); &ldquo;but in
+ reality she is as deep as the Currie Brig!&rdquo; Now where did she get that
+ allusion? And again, when the W.S. asked her whither she was going when
+ she left Edinburgh, &ldquo;I hardly know,&rdquo; she replied pensively. &ldquo;I am waiting
+ for the shade of Montrose to direct me, as the Viscount Dundee said to
+ your Duke of Gordon.&rdquo; The entranced Scotsman little knew that she had
+ perfected this style of conversation by long experience with the Q.C.&lsquo;s of
+ England. Talk about my being as deep as the Currie Brig (whatever it may
+ be); Salemina is deeper than the Atlantic Ocean! I shall take pains to
+ inform her Writer to the Signet, after dinner, that she eats sugar on her
+ porridge every morning; that will show him her nationality conclusively.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The earl took the greatest interest in my new ancestors, and approved
+ thoroughly of my choice. He thinks I must have been named for Lady
+ Penelope Belhaven, who lived in Leven Lodge, one of the country villas of
+ the Earls of Leven, from whom he himself is descended. &ldquo;Does that make us
+ relatives?&rdquo; I asked. &ldquo;Relatives, most assuredly,&rdquo; he replied, &ldquo;but not too
+ near to destroy the charm of friendship.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He thought it a great deal nicer to select one&rsquo;s own forebears than to
+ allow them all the responsibility, and said it would save a world of
+ trouble if the method could be universally adopted. He added that he
+ should be glad to part with a good many of his, but doubted whether I
+ would accept them, as they were &lsquo;rather a scratch lot.&rsquo; (I use his own
+ language, which I thought delightfully easy for a belted earl.) He was
+ charmed with the story of Francesca and the lamiter, and offered to drive
+ me to Kildonan House, Helmsdale, on the first fine day. I told him he was
+ quite safe in making the proposition, for we had already had the fine day,
+ and we understood that the climate had exhausted itself and retired for
+ the season.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The gentleman on my left, a distinguished Dean of the Thistle, gave me a
+ few moments&rsquo; discomfort by telling me that the old custom of &lsquo;rounds&rsquo; of
+ toasts still prevailed at Lady Baird&rsquo;s on formal occasions, and that
+ before the ladies retired every one would be called upon for appropriate
+ &lsquo;sentiments.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What sort of sentiments?&rdquo; I inquired, quite overcome with terror.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, epigrammatic sentences expressive of moral feelings or virtues,&rdquo;
+ replied my neighbour easily. &ldquo;They are not quite as formal and hackneyed
+ now as they were in the olden time, when some of the favourite toasts were
+ &lsquo;May the pleasure of the evening bear the reflections of the morning!&rsquo;
+ &lsquo;May the friends of our youth be the companions of our old age!&rsquo; &lsquo;May the
+ honest heart never feel distress!&rsquo; &lsquo;May the hand of charity wipe the eye
+ of sorrow!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I can never do it in the world!&rdquo; I ejaculated. &ldquo;Oh, one ought never,
+ never to leave one&rsquo;s own country! A light-minded and cynical English
+ gentleman told me that I should frequently be called upon to read hymns
+ and recite verses of Scripture at family dinners in Edinburgh, and I hope
+ I am always prepared to do that; but nobody warned me that I should have
+ to evolve epigrammatic sentiments on the spur of the moment.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ My confusion was so evident that the good dean relented and confessed that
+ he was imposing upon my ignorance. He made me laugh heartily at the story
+ of a poor dominie at Arndilly. He was called upon in his turn, at a large
+ party, and having nothing to aid him in an exercise to which he was new
+ save the example of his predecessors, lifted his glass after much writhing
+ and groaning and gave, &ldquo;The reflection of the moon in the cawm bosom of
+ the lake!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At this moment Lady Baird glanced at me, and we all rose to go into the
+ drawing-room; but on the way from my chair to the door, whither the earl
+ escorted me, he said gallantly, &ldquo;I suppose the men in your country do not
+ take champagne at dinner? I cannot fancy their craving it when dining
+ beside an American woman!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ That was charming, though he did pay my country a compliment at my
+ expense. One likes, of course, to have the type recognised as fine; at the
+ same time his remark would have been more flattering if it had been less
+ sweeping.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I remember that he offered me his ancestors, asked me to drive two
+ hundred and eighty miles, and likened me to champagne, I feel that, with
+ my heart already occupied and my hand promised, I could hardly have
+ accomplished more in the course of a single dinner-hour.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VII. Francesca meets th&rsquo; unconquer&rsquo;d Scot.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Francesca&rsquo;s experiences were not so fortunate; indeed, I have never seen
+ her more out of sorts than she was during our long chat over the fire,
+ after our return to Breadalbane Terrace.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;How did you get on with your delightful minister?&rdquo; inquired Salemina of
+ the young lady, as she flung her unoffending wrap over the back of a
+ chair. &ldquo;He was quite the handsomest man in the room; who is he?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He is the Reverend Ronald Macdonald, and the most disagreeable,
+ condescending, ill-tempered prig I ever met!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why, Francesca!&rdquo; I exclaimed. &ldquo;Lady Baird speaks of him as her favourite
+ nephew, and says he is full of charm.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He is just as full of charm as he was when I met him,&rdquo; returned the girl
+ nonchalantly; &ldquo;that is, he parted with none of it this evening. He was
+ incorrigibly stiff and rude, and oh! so Scotch! I believe if one punctured
+ him with a hat-pin, oatmeal would fly into the air!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Doubtless you acquainted him, early in the evening, with the immeasurable
+ advantages of our sleeping-car system, the superiority of our fast-running
+ elevators, and the height of our buildings?&rdquo; observed Salemina.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I mentioned them,&rdquo; Francesca answered evasively.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You naturally inveighed against the Scotch climate?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, I alluded to it; but only when he said that our hot summers must be
+ insufferable.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I suppose you repeated the remark you made at luncheon, that the ladies
+ you had seen in Princes Street were excessively plain?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, I did!&rdquo; she replied hotly; &ldquo;but that was because he said that
+ American girls generally looked bloodless and frail. He asked if it were
+ really true that they ate chalk and slate pencils. Wasn&rsquo;t that
+ unendurable? I answered that those were the chief solid article of food,
+ but that after their complexions were established, so to speak, their
+ parents often allowed them pickles and native claret to vary the diet.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What did he say to that?&rdquo; I asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, he said, &lsquo;Quite so, quite so&rsquo;; that was his invariable response to
+ all my witticisms. Then when I told him casually that the shops looked
+ very small and dark and stuffy here, and that there were not as many
+ tartans and plaids in the windows as we had expected, he remarked that as
+ to the latter point, the American season had not opened yet! Presently he
+ asserted that no royal city in Europe could boast ten centuries of such
+ glorious and stirring history as Edinburgh. I said it did not appear to be
+ stirring much at present, and that everything in Scotland seemed a little
+ slow to an American; that he could have no idea of push or enterprise
+ until he visited a city like Chicago. He retorted that, happily, Edinburgh
+ was peculiarly free from the taint of the ledger and the counting-house;
+ that it was Weimar without a Goethe, Boston without its twang!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Incredible!&rdquo; cried Salemina, deeply wounded in her local pride. &ldquo;He never
+ could have said &lsquo;twang&rsquo; unless you had tried him beyond measure!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I dare say I did; he is easily tried,&rdquo; returned Francesca. &ldquo;I asked him,
+ sarcastically, if he had ever been in Boston. &lsquo;No,&rsquo; he said, &lsquo;it is not
+ necessary to GO there! And while we are discussing these matters,&rsquo; he went
+ on, &lsquo;how is your American dyspepsia these days,&mdash;have you decided
+ what is the cause of it?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Yes, we have,&rsquo; said I, as quick as a flash; &lsquo;we have always taken in
+ more foreigners than we could assimilate!&rsquo; I wanted to tell him that one
+ Scotsman of his type would upset the national digestion anywhere, but I
+ restrained myself.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am glad you did restrain yourself&mdash;once,&rdquo; exclaimed Salemina.
+ &ldquo;What a tactful person the Reverend Ronald must be, if you have reported
+ him faithfully! Why didn&rsquo;t you give him up, and turn to your other
+ neighbour?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I did, as soon as I could with courtesy; but the man on my left was the
+ type that always haunts me at dinners; if the hostess hasn&rsquo;t one on her
+ visiting-list she imports one for the occasion. He asked me at once of
+ what material the Brooklyn Bridge is made. I told him I really didn&rsquo;t
+ know. Why should I? I seldom go over it. Then he asked me whether it was a
+ suspension bridge or a cantilever. Of course I didn&rsquo;t know; I am not an
+ engineer.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You are so tactlessly, needlessly candid,&rdquo; I expostulated. &ldquo;Why didn&rsquo;t
+ you say boldly that the Brooklyn Bridge is a wooden cantilever, with
+ gutta-percha braces? He didn&rsquo;t know, or he wouldn&rsquo;t have asked you. He
+ couldn&rsquo;t find out until he reached home, and you would never have seen him
+ again; and if you had, and he had taunted you, you could have laughed
+ vivaciously and said you were chaffing. That is my method, and it is the
+ only way to preserve life in a foreign country. Even my earl, who did not
+ thirst for information (fortunately), asked me the population of the
+ Yellowstone Park, and I simply told him three hundred thousand, at a
+ venture.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That would never have satisfied my neighbour,&rdquo; said Francesca. &ldquo;Finding
+ me in such a lamentable state of ignorance, he explained the principle of
+ his own stupid Forth Bridge to me. When I said I understood perfectly,
+ just to get into shallower water, where we wouldn&rsquo;t need any bridge, the
+ Reverend Ronald joined in the conversation, and asked me to repeat the
+ explanation to him. Naturally I couldn&rsquo;t, and he knew that I couldn&rsquo;t when
+ he asked me, so the bridge man (I don&rsquo;t know his name, and don&rsquo;t care to
+ know it) drew a diagram of the national idol on his dinner-card and gave a
+ dull and elaborate lecture upon it. Here is the card, and now that three
+ hours have intervened I cannot tell which way to turn the drawing so as to
+ make the bridge right side up; if there is anything puzzling in the world,
+ it is these architectural plans and diagrams. I am going to pin it to the
+ wall and ask the Reverend Ronald which way it goes.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you mean that he will call upon us?&rdquo; we cried in concert.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He asked if he might come and continue our &lsquo;stimulating&rsquo; conversation,
+ and as Lady Baird was standing by I could hardly say no. I am sure of one
+ thing: that before I finish with him I will widen his horizon so that he
+ will be able to see something beside Scotland and his little insignificant
+ Fifeshire parish! I told him our country parishes in America were ten
+ times as large as his. He said he had heard that they covered a good deal
+ of territory, and that the ministers&rsquo; salaries were sometimes paid in pork
+ and potatoes. That shows you the style of his retorts!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I really cannot decide which of you was the more disagreeable,&rdquo; said
+ Salemina; &ldquo;if he calls, I shall not remain in the room.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I wouldn&rsquo;t gratify him by staying out,&rdquo; retorted Francesca. &ldquo;He is
+ extremely good for the circulation; I think I was never so warm in my life
+ as when I talked with him; as physical exercise he is equal to bicycling.
+ The bridge man is coming to call, too. I made him a diagram of Breadalbane
+ Terrace, and a plan of the hall and staircase, on my dinner-card. He was
+ distinctly ungrateful; in fact, he remarked that he had been born in this
+ very house, but would not trust himself to find his way upstairs with my
+ plan as a guide. He also said the American vocabulary was vastly amusing,
+ so picturesque, unstudied, and fresh.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That was nice, surely,&rdquo; I interpolated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You know perfectly well that it was an insult.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Francesca is very like that young man,&rdquo; laughed Salemina, &ldquo;who, whenever
+ he engaged in controversy, seemed to take off his flesh and sit in his
+ nerves.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;m not supersensitive,&rdquo; replied Francesca, &ldquo;but when one&rsquo;s vocabulary is
+ called picturesque by a Britisher, one always knows he is thinking of
+ cowboys and broncos. However, I shifted the weight into the other scale by
+ answering &lsquo;Thank you. And your phraseology is just as unusual to us.&rsquo;
+ &lsquo;Indeed?&rsquo; he said with some surprise. &lsquo;I supposed our method of expression
+ very sedate and uneventful.&rsquo; &lsquo;Not at all,&rsquo; I returned, &lsquo;when you say, as
+ you did a moment ago, that you never eat potato to your fish.&rsquo; &lsquo;But I do
+ not,&rsquo; he urged obtusely. &lsquo;Very likely,&rsquo; I argued, &lsquo;but the fact is not of
+ so much importance as the preposition. Now I eat potato WITH my fish.&rsquo;
+ &lsquo;You make a mistake,&rsquo; he said, and we both laughed in spite of ourselves,
+ while he murmured, &lsquo;eating potato WITH fish&mdash;how extraordinary.&rsquo;
+ Well, the bridge man may not add perceptibly to the gaiety of the nations,
+ but he is better than the Reverend Ronald. I forgot to say that when I
+ chanced to be speaking of doughnuts, that &lsquo;unconquer&rsquo;d Scot&rsquo; asked me if a
+ doughnut resembled a peanut? Can you conceive such ignorance?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I think you were not only aggressively American, but painfully
+ provincial,&rdquo; said Salemina, with some warmth. &ldquo;Why in the world should you
+ drag doughnuts into a dinner-table conversation in Edinburgh? Why not
+ select topics of universal interest?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Like the Currie Brig or the shade of Montrose,&rdquo; I murmured slyly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;To one who has ever eaten a doughnut, the subject is of transcendent
+ interest; and as for one who has not&mdash;well, he should be made to feel
+ his limitations,&rdquo; replied Francesca, with a yawn. &ldquo;Come, let us forget our
+ troubles in sleep; it is after midnight.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ About half an hour later she came to my bedside, her dark hair hanging
+ over her white gown, her eyes still bright.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope,&rdquo; she said softly, &ldquo;I did not dare tell Salemina, and I should
+ not confess it to you save that I am afraid Lady Baird will complain of
+ me; but I was dreadfully rude to the Reverend Ronald! I couldn&rsquo;t help it;
+ he roused my worst passions. It all began with his saying he thought
+ international marriages presented even more difficulties to the
+ imagination than the other kind. I hadn&rsquo;t said anything about marriages
+ nor thought anything about marriages of any sort, but I told him INSTANTLY
+ I considered that every international marriage involved two national
+ suicides. He said that he shouldn&rsquo;t have put it quite so forcibly, but
+ that he hadn&rsquo;t given much thought to the subject. I said that I had, and I
+ thought we had gone on long enough filling the coffers of the British
+ nobility with American gold.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;FRANCES!&rdquo; I interrupted. &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t tell me that you made that vulgar, cheap
+ newspaper assertion!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I did,&rdquo; she replied stoutly, &ldquo;and at the moment I only wished I could
+ make it stronger. If there had been anything cheaper or more vulgar, I
+ should have said it, but of course there isn&rsquo;t. Then he remarked that the
+ British nobility merited and needed all the support it could get in these
+ hard times, and asked if we had not cherished some intention in the
+ States, lately, of bestowing it in greenbacks instead of gold! I threw all
+ manners to the winds after that and told him that there were no husbands
+ in the world like American men, and that foreigners never seemed to have
+ any proper consideration for women. Now, were my remarks any worse than
+ his, after all, and what shall I do about it anyway?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You should go to bed first,&rdquo; I murmured sleepily; &ldquo;and if you ever have
+ an opportunity to make amends, which I doubt, you should devote yourself
+ to showing the Reverend Ronald the breadth of your own horizon instead of
+ trying so hard to broaden his. As you are extremely pretty, you may
+ possibly succeed; man is human, and I dare say in a month you will be
+ advising him to love somebody more worthy than yourself. (He could easily
+ do it!) Now don&rsquo;t kiss me again, for I am displeased with you; I hate
+ international bickering!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;So do I,&rdquo; agreed Francesca virtuously, as she plaited her hair, &ldquo;and
+ there is no spectacle so abhorrent to every sense as a narrow-minded man
+ who cannot see anything outside of his own country. But he is awfully
+ good-looking,&mdash;I will say that for him: and if you don&rsquo;t explain me
+ to Lady Baird, I will write to Mr. Beresford about the earl. There was no
+ bickering there; it was looking at you two that made us think of
+ international marriages.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It must have suggested to you that speech about filling the coffers of
+ the British nobility,&rdquo; I replied sarcastically, &ldquo;inasmuch as the earl has
+ twenty thousand pounds a year, probably, and I could barely buy two gold
+ hairpins to pin on the coronet. There, do go away and leave me in peace!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good night again, then,&rdquo; she said, as she rose reluctantly from the foot
+ of the bed. &ldquo;I doubt if I can sleep for thinking what a pity it is that
+ such an egotistic, bumptious, pugnacious, prejudiced, insular, bigoted
+ person should be so handsome! And who wants to marry him any way, that he
+ should be so distressed about international alliances? One would think
+ that all female America was sighing to lead him to the altar!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter VIII. &lsquo;What made th&rsquo; Assembly shine?&rsquo;
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Two or three days ago we noted an unusual though subdued air of excitement
+ at 22 Breadalbane Terrace, where for a week we had been the sole lodgers.
+ Mrs. Menzies, whom we call Mingess, has returned to Kilconquhar, which she
+ calls Kinyuchar; Miss Cockburn-Sinclair has purchased her wedding outfit
+ and gone back to Inverness, where she will be greeted as Coburn-Sinkler;
+ the Hepburn-Sciennes will be leaving to-morrow, just as we have learned to
+ pronounce their names; and the sound of the scrubbing-brush is heard in
+ the land. In corners where all was clean and spotless before, Mrs.
+ M&rsquo;Collop is digging with the broom, and the maiden Boots is following her
+ with a damp cloth. The stair carpets are hanging on lines in the back
+ garden, and Susanna, with her cap rakishly on one side, is always to be
+ seen polishing the stair-rods. Whenever we traverse the halls we are
+ obliged to leap over pails of suds, and Miss Diggity-Dalgety has given us
+ two dinners which bore a curious resemblance to washing-day repasts in
+ suburban America.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Is it spring house-cleaning?&rdquo; I ask Mistress M&rsquo;Collop.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Na, na,&rdquo; she replies hurriedly; &ldquo;it&rsquo;s the meenisters.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the 19th of May we are a maiden castle no longer. Black coats and hats
+ ring at the bell, and pass in and out of the different apartments. The
+ hall table is sprinkled with letters, visiting-cards, and programmes which
+ seem to have had the alphabet shaken out upon them, for they bear the
+ names of professors, doctors, reverends, and very reverends, and fairly
+ bristle with A.M.&lsquo;s, M.A.&lsquo;s, A.B.&lsquo;s, D.D.&lsquo;s, and LL.D.&lsquo;s. The voice of
+ family prayer is lifted up from the dining-room floor, and paraphrases and
+ hymns float down the stairs from above. Their Graces the Lord High
+ Commissioner and the Marchioness of Heatherdale will arrive to-day at
+ Holyrood Palace, there to reside during the sittings of the General
+ Assembly of the Church of Scotland, and to-morrow the Royal Standard will
+ be hoisted at Edinburgh Castle from reveille to retreat. His Grace will
+ hold a levee at eleven. Directly His Grace leaves the palace after the
+ levee, the guard of honour will proceed by the Canongate to receive him on
+ his arrival at St. Giles&rsquo; Church, and will then proceed to Assembly Hall
+ to receive him on his arrival there. The Sixth Inniskilling Dragoons and
+ the First Battalion Royal Scots will be in attendance, and there will be
+ Unicorns, Carricks, pursuivants, heralds, mace-bearers, ushers, and pages,
+ together with the Purse-bearer, and the Lyon King-of-Arms, and the
+ national anthem, and the royal salute; for the palace has awakened and is
+ &lsquo;mimicking its past.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;Should the weather be wet, the troops will be cloaked at the discretion
+ of the commanding officer.&rsquo; They print this instruction as a matter of
+ form, and of course every man has his macintosh ready. The only hope lies
+ in the fact that this is a national function, and &lsquo;Queen&rsquo;s weather&rsquo; is a
+ possibility. The one personage for whom the Scottish climate will
+ occasionally relax is Her Majesty Queen Victoria, who for sixty years has
+ exerted a benign influence on British skies and at least secured sunshine
+ on great parade days. Such women are all too few!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In this wise enters His Grace the Lord High Commissioner to open the
+ General Assembly of the Church of Scotland; and on the same day there
+ arrives by the railway (but travelling first class) the Moderator of the
+ Church of Scotland Free, to convene its separate supreme Courts in
+ Edinburgh. He will have no Union Jacks, Royal Standards, Dragoons, bands,
+ or pipers; he will bear his own purse and stay at an hotel; but when the
+ final procession of all comes, he will probably march beside His Grace the
+ Lord High Commissioner, and they will talk together, not of dead-and-gone
+ kingdoms, but of the one at hand, where there are no more divisions in the
+ ranks, and where all the soldiers are simply &lsquo;king&rsquo;s men,&rsquo; marching to
+ victory under the inspiration of a common watchword.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is a matter of regret to us that the U.P.&lsquo;s, the third branch of
+ Scottish Presbyterianism, could not be holding an Assembly during this
+ same week, so that we might the more easily decide in which flock we
+ really belong. 22 Breadalbane Terrace now represents all shades of
+ religious opinion within the bounds of Presbyterianism. We have an Elder,
+ a Professor of Biblical Criticism, a Majesty&rsquo;s Chaplain, and even an
+ ex-Moderator under our roof, and they are equally divided between the Free
+ and the Established bodies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop herself is a pillar of the Free Kirk, but she has no
+ prejudice in lodgers, and says so long as she &lsquo;mak&rsquo;s her rent she doesna
+ care aboot their releegious principles.&rsquo; Miss Diggity-Dalgety is the sole
+ representative of United Presbyterianism in the household, and she is
+ somewhat gloomy in Assembly time. To belong to a dissenting body, and yet
+ to cook early and late for the purpose of fattening one&rsquo;s religious
+ rivals, is doubtless trying to the temper; and then she asserts that
+ &lsquo;meenisters are aye tume [empty].&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You must put away your Scottish ballads and histories now, Salemina, and
+ keep your Concordance and your umbrella constantly at hand.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This I said as we stood on George IV. Bridge and saw the ministers
+ glooming down from the Mound in a dense Assembly fog. As the presence of
+ any considerable number of priests on an ocean steamer is supposed to
+ bring rough weather, so the addition of a few hundred parsons to the
+ population of Edinburgh is believed to induce rain,&mdash;or perhaps I
+ should say, more rain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of course, when one is in perfect bodily health one can more readily
+ resist the infection of disease. Similarly if Scottish skies were not
+ ready and longing to pour out rain, were not ignobly weak in holding it
+ back, they would not be so susceptible to the depressing influences of
+ visiting ministers. This is Francesca&rsquo;s theory as stated to the Reverend
+ Ronald, who was holding an umbrella over her ungrateful head at the time;
+ and she went on to boast of a convention she once attended in California,
+ where twenty-six thousand Christian Endeavourers were unable to dim the
+ American sunshine, though they stayed ten days.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Our first duty, both to ourselves and to the community,&rdquo; I continued to
+ Salemina, &ldquo;is to learn how there can be three distinct kinds of proper
+ Presbyterianism. Perhaps it would be a graceful act on our part if we
+ should each espouse a different kind; then there would be no feeling among
+ our Edinburgh friends. And again what is this &lsquo;union&rsquo; of which we hear
+ murmurs? Is it religious or political? Is it an echo of the 1707 Union you
+ explained to us last week, or is it a new one? What is Disestablishment?
+ What is Disruption? Are they the same thing? What is the Sustentation
+ Fund? What was the Non-Intrusion party? What was the Dundas Despotism?
+ What is the argument at present going on about taking the Shorter
+ Catechism out of the schools? What is the Shorter Catechism, any way,&mdash;or
+ at least what have they left out of the Longer Catechism to make it
+ shorter,&mdash;and is the length of the Catechism one of the points of
+ difference? then when we have looked up Chalmers and Candlish, we can ask
+ the ex-Moderator and the Professor of Biblical Criticism to tea;
+ separately, of course, lest there should be ecclesiastical quarrels.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina and Francesca both incline to the Established church, I lean
+ instinctively toward the Free; but that does not mean that we have any
+ knowledge of the differences that separate them. Salemina is a
+ conservative in all things; she loves law, order, historic associations,
+ old customs; and so when there is a regularly established national church,&mdash;or,
+ for that matter, a regularly established anything, she gravitates to it by
+ the law of her being. Francesca&rsquo;s religious convictions, when she is away
+ from her own minister and native land, are inclined to be flexible. The
+ church that enters Edinburgh with a marquis and a marchioness representing
+ the Crown, the church that opens its Assembly with splendid processions
+ and dignified pageants, the church that dispenses generous hospitality
+ from Holyrood Palace,&mdash;above all, the church that escorts its Lord
+ High Commissioner from place to place with bands and pipers,&mdash;that is
+ the church to which she pledges her constant presence and enthusiastic
+ support.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As for me, I believe I am a born protestant, or &lsquo;come-outer,&rsquo; as they used
+ to call dissenters in the early days of New England. I have not yet had
+ time to study the question, but as I lack all knowledge of the other two
+ branches of Presbyterianism, I am enabled to say unhesitatingly that I
+ belong to the Free Kirk. To begin with, the very word &lsquo;free&rsquo; has a
+ fascination for the citizen of a republic; and then my theological
+ training was begun this morning by a gifted young minister of Edinburgh
+ whom we call the Friar, because the first time we saw him in his gown and
+ bands (the little spot of sheer whiteness beneath the chin, that lends
+ such added spirituality to a spiritual face) we fancied that he looked
+ like some pale brother of the Church in the olden time. His pallor, in a
+ land of rosy redness and milky whiteness; his smooth, fair hair, which in
+ the light from the stained-glass window above the pulpit looked reddish
+ gold; the Southern heat of passionate conviction that coloured his slow
+ Northern speech; the remoteness of his personality; the weariness of his
+ deep-set eyes, that bespoke such fastings and vigils as he probably never
+ practised,&mdash;all this led to our choice of the name.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As we walked toward St. Andrew&rsquo;s Church and Tanfield Hall, where he
+ insisted on taking me to get the &lsquo;proper historical background,&rsquo; he told
+ me about the great Disruption movement. He was extremely eloquent,&mdash;so
+ eloquent that the image of Willie Beresford tottered continually on its
+ throne, and I found not the slightest difficulty in giving an unswerving
+ allegiance to the principles presented by such an orator.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We went first to St. Andrew&rsquo;s, where the General Assembly met in 1843, and
+ where the famous exodus of the Free Protesting Church took place,&mdash;one
+ of the most important events in the modern history of the United Kingdom.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The movement was promoted by the great Dr. Chalmers and his party, mainly
+ to abolish the patronage of livings, then in the hands of certain heritors
+ or patrons, who might appoint any minister they wished, without consulting
+ the congregation. Needless to say, as a free-born American citizen, and
+ never having had a heritor in the family, my blood easily boiled at the
+ recital of such tyranny. In 1834 the Church had passed a law of its own,
+ it seems, ordaining that no presentee to a parish should be admitted, if
+ opposed by the majority of the male communicants. That would have been
+ well enough could the State have been made to agree, though I should have
+ gone further, personally, and allowed the female communicants to have some
+ voice in the matter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Friar took me into a particularly chilly historic corner, and, leaning
+ against a damp stone pillar, painted the scene in St. Andrew&rsquo;s when the
+ Assembly met in the presence of a great body of spectators, while a vast
+ throng gathered without, breathlessly awaiting the result. No one believed
+ that any large number of ministers would relinquish livings and stipends
+ and cast their bread upon the waters for what many thought a &lsquo;fantastic
+ principle.&rsquo; Yet when the Moderator left his place, after reading a formal
+ protest signed by one hundred and twenty ministers and seventy-two elders,
+ he was followed first by Dr. Chalmers, and then by four hundred and
+ seventy men, who marched in a body to Tanfield Hall, where they formed
+ themselves into the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland. When
+ Lord Jeffrey was told of it an hour later, he exclaimed, &lsquo;Thank God for
+ Scotland! there is not another country on earth where such a deed could be
+ done!&rsquo; And the Friar reminded me proudly of Macaulay&rsquo;s saying that the
+ Scots had made sacrifices for the sake of religious opinion for which
+ there was no parallel in the annals of England. On the next Sunday after
+ these remarkable scenes in Edinburgh there were heart-breaking farewells,
+ so the Friar said, in many village parishes, when the minister, in
+ dismissing his congregation, told them that he had ceased to belong to the
+ Established Church and would neither preach nor pray in that pulpit again;
+ that he had joined the Free Protesting Church of Scotland, and, God
+ willing, would speak the next Sabbath morning at the manse door to as many
+ as cared to follow him. &ldquo;What affecting leave-takings there must have
+ been!&rdquo; the Friar exclaimed. &ldquo;When my grandfather left his church that May
+ morning, only fifteen members remained behind, and he could hear the more
+ courageous say to the timid ones, &lsquo;Tak&rsquo; your Bible and come awa&rsquo;, mon!&rsquo;
+ Was not all this a splendid testimony to the power of principle and the
+ sacred demands of conscience?&rdquo; I said &ldquo;Yea&rdquo; most heartily, for the spirit
+ of Jenny Geddes stirred within me that morning, and under the spell of the
+ Friar&rsquo;s kindling eye and eloquent voice I positively gloried in the
+ valiant achievements of the Free Church. It would always be easier for a
+ woman to say, &ldquo;Yea&rdquo; than &ldquo;Nay&rdquo; to the Friar. When he left me in
+ Breadalbane Terrace I was at heart a member of his congregation in good
+ (and irregular) standing, ready to teach in his Sunday-school, sing in his
+ choir, visit his aged and sick poor, and especially to stand between him
+ and a too admiring feminine constituency.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I entered the drawing-room, I found that Salemina had just enjoyed an
+ hour&rsquo;s conversation with the ex-Moderator of the opposite church wing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, my dear,&rdquo; she sighed, &ldquo;you have missed such a treat! You have no
+ conception of these Scottish ministers of the Establishment,&mdash;such
+ culture, such courtliness of manner, such scholarship, such spirituality,
+ such wise benignity of opinion! I asked the doctor to explain the
+ Disruption movement to me, and he was most interesting and lucid, and most
+ affecting, too, when he described the misunderstandings and misconceptions
+ that the Church suffered in those terrible days of 1843, when its very
+ life-blood, as well as its integrity and unity, were threatened by the
+ foes in its own household; when breaches of faith and trust occurred on
+ all sides, and dissents and disloyalties shook it to its very foundation!
+ You see, Penelope, I have never fully understood the disagreements about
+ heritors and livings and state control before, but here is the whole
+ matter in a nut-sh&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;My dear Salemina,&rdquo; I interposed, with dignity, &ldquo;you will pardon me, I am
+ sure, when I tell you that any discussion on this point would be intensely
+ painful to me, as I now belong to the Free Kirk.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Where have you been this morning?&rdquo; she asked, with a piercing glance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;To St. Andrew&rsquo;s and Tanfield Hall.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;With whom?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;With the Friar.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I see! Happy the missionary to whom you incline your ear, FIRST!&rdquo;&mdash;which
+ I thought rather inconsistent of Salemina, as she had been converted by
+ precisely the same methods and in precisely the same length of time as had
+ I, the only difference being in the ages of our respective missionaries,
+ one being about five-and-thirty, and other five-and-sixty. Even this is to
+ my credit after all, for if one can be persuaded so quickly and fully by a
+ young and comparatively inexperienced man, it shows that one must be
+ extremely susceptible to spiritual influences or&mdash;something.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter IX. Omnia presbyteria est divisa in partes tres.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Religion in Edinburgh is a theory, a convention, a fashion (both humble
+ and aristocratic), a sensation, an intellectual conviction, an emotion, a
+ dissipation, a sweet habit of the blood; in fact, it is, it seems to me,
+ every sort of thing it can be to the human spirit.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When we had finished our church toilettes, and came into the drawing-room,
+ on the first Sunday morning, I remember that we found Francesca at the
+ window.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There is a battle, murder, or sudden death going on in the square below,&rdquo;
+ she said. &ldquo;I am going to ask Susanna to ask Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop what it means.
+ Never have I seen such a crowd moving peacefully, with no excitement or
+ confusion, in one direction. Where can the people be going? Do you suppose
+ it is a fire? Why, I believe... it cannot be possible... yes, they
+ certainly are disappearing in that big church on the corner; and millions,
+ simply millions and trillions, are coming in the other direction,&mdash;toward
+ St. Knox&rsquo;s.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Impressive as was this morning church-going, a still greater surprise
+ awaited us at seven o&rsquo;clock in the evening, when the crowd blocked the
+ streets on two sides of a church near Breadalbane Terrace; and though it
+ was quite ten minutes before service when we entered, Salemina and I only
+ secured the last two seats in the aisle, and Francesca was obliged to sit
+ on the steps of the pulpit or seek a sermon elsewhere.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It amused me greatly to see Francesca sitting on pulpit steps, her Paris
+ gown and smart toque in close juxtaposition to the rusty bonnet and
+ bombazine dress of a respectable elderly tradeswoman. The church officer
+ entered first, bearing the great Bible and hymn-book, which he reverently
+ placed on the pulpit cushions; and close behind him, to our entire
+ astonishment, came the Reverend Ronald Macdonald, evidently exchanging
+ with the regular minister of the parish, whom we had come especially to
+ hear. I pitied Francesca&rsquo;s confusion and embarrassment, but I was too far
+ from her to offer an exchange of seats, and through the long service she
+ sat there at the feet of her foe, so near that she could have touched the
+ hem of his gown as he knelt devoutly for his first silent prayer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Perhaps she was thinking of her last interview with him, when she
+ descanted at length on that superfluity of naughtiness and Biblical
+ pedantry which, she asserted, made Scottish ministers preach from
+ out-of-the-way texts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have never been able to find my place in the Bible since I arrived,&rdquo;
+ she complained to Salemina, when she was quite sure that Mr. Macdonald was
+ listening to her; and this he generally was, in my opinion, no matter who
+ chanced to be talking. &ldquo;What with their skipping and hopping about from
+ Haggai to Philemon, Habakkuk to Jude, and Micah to Titus, in their
+ readings, and then settling on seventh Nahum, sixth Zephaniah, or second
+ Calathumpians for the sermon, I do nothing but search the Scriptures in
+ the Edinburgh churches,&mdash;search, search, search, until some Christian
+ by my side or in the pew behind me notices my hapless plight, and hands me
+ a Bible opened at the text. Last Sunday it was Obadiah first, fifteenth,
+ &lsquo;For the day of the Lord is near upon all the heathen.&rsquo; It chanced to be a
+ returned missionary who was preaching on that occasion; but the Bible is
+ full of heathen, and why need he have chosen a text from Obadiah, poor
+ little Obadiah one page long, slipped in between Amos and Jonah, where
+ nobody but an elder could find him?&rdquo; If Francesca had not seen with wicked
+ delight the Reverend Ronald&rsquo;s expression of anxiety, she would never have
+ spoken of second Calathumpians; but of course he has no means of knowing
+ how unlike herself she is when in his company.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To go back to our first Sunday worship in Edinburgh. The church officer
+ closed the door of the pulpit on the Reverend Ronald, and I thought I
+ heard the clicking of a lock; at all events, he returned at the close of
+ the services to liberate him and escort him back to the vestry; for the
+ entrances and exits of this beadle, or &lsquo;minister&rsquo;s man,&rsquo; as the church
+ officer is called in the country districts, form an impressive part of the
+ ceremonies. If he did lock the minister into the pulpit, it is probably
+ only another national custom, like the occasional locking in of the
+ passengers in a railway train, and may be positively necessary in the case
+ of such magnetic and popular preachers as Mr. Macdonald, or the Friar.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have never seen such attention, such concentration, as in these great
+ congregations of the Edinburgh churches. As nearly as I can judge, it is
+ intellectual rather than emotional; but it is not a tribute paid to
+ eloquence alone, it is habitual and universal, and is yielded loyally to
+ insufferable dulness when occasion demands.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When the text is announced, there is an indescribable rhythmic movement
+ forward, followed by a concerted rustle of Bible leaves; not the rustle of
+ a few Bibles in a few pious pews, but the rustle of all of them in all the
+ pews,&mdash;and there are more Bibles in an Edinburgh Presbyterian church
+ than one ever sees anywhere else, unless it be in the warehouses of the
+ Bible Societies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The text is read twice clearly, and another rhythmic movement follows when
+ the books are replaced on the shelves. Then there is a delightful settling
+ back of the entire congregation, a snuggling comfortably into corners and
+ a fitting of shoulders to the pews.&mdash;not to sleep, however; an older
+ generation may have done that under the strain of a two-hour &lsquo;wearifu&rsquo;
+ dreich&rsquo; sermon, but these church-goers are not to be caught napping. They
+ wear, on the contrary, a keen, expectant, critical look, which must be
+ inexpressibly encouraging to the minister, if he has anything to say. If
+ he has not (and this is a possibility in Edinburgh, as it is everywhere
+ else), then I am sure it is wisdom for the beadle to lock him in, lest he
+ flee when he meets those searching eyes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Edinburgh sermon, though doubtless softened in outline in these later
+ years, is still a more carefully built discourse than one ordinarily hears
+ out of Scotland, being constructed on conventional lines of doctrine,
+ exposition, logical inference, and practical application. Though modern
+ preachers do not announce the division of their subject into heads and
+ sub-heads, firstlies and secondlies and finallies, my brethren, there
+ seems to be the old framework underneath the sermon, and every one
+ recognises it as moving silently below the surface; at least, I always
+ fancy that as the minister finishes one point and attacks another the
+ younger folk fix their eagle eyes on him afresh, and the whole
+ congregation sits up straighter and listens more intently, as if making
+ mental notes. They do not listen so much as if they were enthralled,
+ though they often are, and have good reason to be, but as if they were to
+ pass an examination on the subject afterwards; and I have no doubt that
+ this is the fact.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The prayers are many, and are divided, apparently, like those of the
+ liturgies, into petitions, confessions, and aspirations; not forgetting
+ the all-embracing one with which we are perfectly familiar in our native
+ land, in which the preacher commends to the Fatherly care every animate
+ and inanimate thing not mentioned specifically in the foregoing
+ supplications. It was in the middle of this compendious petition, &lsquo;the
+ lang prayer,&rsquo; that rheumatic old Scottish dames used to make a practice of
+ &lsquo;cheengin&rsquo; the fit,&rsquo; as they stood devoutly through it. &ldquo;When the
+ meenister comes to the &lsquo;ingetherin&rsquo; o&rsquo; the Gentiles,&rsquo; I ken weel it&rsquo;s time
+ to cheenge legs, for then the prayer is jist half dune,&rdquo; said a good
+ sermon-taster of Fife.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The organ is finding its way rapidly into the Scottish kirks (how can the
+ shade of John Knox endure a &lsquo;kist o&rsquo; whistles&rsquo; in good St. Giles&rsquo;?), but
+ it is not used yet in some of those we attend most frequently. There is a
+ certain quaint solemnity, a beautiful austerity, in the unaccompanied
+ singing of hymns that touches me profoundly. I am often carried very high
+ on the waves of splendid church music, when the organ&rsquo;s thunder rolls
+ &lsquo;through vaulted aisles&rsquo; and the angelic voices of a trained choir chant
+ the aspirations of my soul for me; and when an Edinburgh congregation
+ stands, and the precentor leads in that noble paraphrase,
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;God of our fathers, be the God
+ Of their succeeding race,&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ there is a certain ascetic fervour in it that seems to me the perfection
+ of worship. It may be that my Puritan ancestors are mainly responsible for
+ this feeling, or perhaps my recently adopted Jenny Geddes is a factor in
+ it; of course, if she were in the habit of flinging fauldstules at Deans,
+ she was probably the friend of truth and the foe of beauty, so far as it
+ was in her power to separate them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is no music during the offertory in these churches, and this, too,
+ pleases my sense of the fitness of things. It cannot soften the woe of the
+ people who are disinclined to the giving away of money, and the cheerful
+ givers need no encouragement. For my part, I like to sit, quite
+ undistracted by soprano solos, and listen to the refined tinkle of the
+ sixpences and shillings, and the vulgar chink of the pennies and
+ ha&rsquo;pennies, in the contribution-boxes. Country ministers, I am told,
+ develop such an acute sense of hearing that they can estimate the amount
+ of the collection before it is counted. There is often a huge pewter plate
+ just within the church door, in which the offerings are placed as the
+ worshippers enter or leave; and one always notes the preponderance of
+ silver at the morning, and of copper at the evening services. It is
+ perhaps needless to say that before Francesca had been in Edinburgh a
+ fortnight she asked Mr. Macdonald if it were true that the Scots continued
+ coining the farthing for years and years, merely to have a piece of money
+ serviceable for church offerings!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As to social differences in the congregations we are somewhat at sea. We
+ tried to arrive at a conclusion by the hats and bonnets, than which there
+ is usually no more infallible test. On our first Sunday we attended the
+ Free Kirk in the morning, and the Established in the evening. The bonnets
+ of the Free Kirk were so much the more elegant that we said to one
+ another, &ldquo;This is evidently the church of society, though the adjective
+ &lsquo;Free&rsquo; should by rights attract the masses.&rdquo; On the second Sunday we
+ reversed the order of things, and found the Established bonnets much finer
+ than the Free bonnets, which was a source of mystification to us, until we
+ discovered that it was a question of morning or evening service, not of
+ the form of Presbyterianism. We think, on the whole, that, taking town and
+ country congregations together, millinery has not flourished under
+ Presbyterianism,&mdash;it seems to thrive better in the Romish atmosphere
+ of France; but the Disruption at least, has had nothing to answer for in
+ the matter, as it appears simply to have parted the bonnets of Scotland in
+ twain, as Moses divided the Red Sea, and left good and evil on both sides.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I can never forget our first military service at St. Giles&rsquo;. We left
+ Breadalbane Terrace before nine in the morning and walked along the
+ beautiful curve of street that sweeps around the base of the Castle Rock,&mdash;walked
+ on through the poverty and squalor of the High Street, keeping in view the
+ beautiful lantern tower as a guiding-star, till we heard
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The murmur of the city crowd;
+ And, from his steeple, jingling loud,
+ St. Giles&rsquo;s mingling din.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We joined the throng outside the venerable church, and awaited the
+ approach of the soldiers from the Castle parade-ground; for it is from
+ there they march in detachments to the church of their choice. A religion
+ they must have, and if, when called up and questioned about it, they have
+ forgotten to provide themselves, or have no preference as to form of
+ worship, they are assigned to one by the person in authority. When the
+ regiments are assembled on the parade-ground of a Sunday morning, the
+ first command is, &lsquo;Church of Scotland, right about face, quick march!&rsquo;&mdash;the
+ bodies of men belonging to other denominations standing fast until their
+ turn comes to move. It is said that a new officer once gave the command,
+ &lsquo;Church of Scotland, right about face, quick march! Fancy releegions, stay
+ where ye are!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just as we were being told this story by an attendant squire, there was a
+ burst of scarlet and a blare of music, and down Castlehill and the
+ Lawnmarket into Parliament Square marched hundreds of redcoats, the
+ Highland pipers (otherwise the Olympian gods) swinging in front, leaving
+ the American female heart prostrate beneath their victorious tread. The
+ strains of music that in the distance sounded so martial and triumphant we
+ recognised in a moment as &lsquo;Abide with me,&rsquo; and never did the fine old tune
+ seem more majestic than when it marked a measure for the steady tramp,
+ tramp, tramp, of those soldierly feet. As &lsquo;The March of the Cameron Men,&rsquo;
+ piped from the green steeps of Castlehill, had aroused in us thoughts of
+ splendid victories on the battlefield, so did this simple hymn awake the
+ spirit of the church militant; a no less stern but more spiritual
+ soldiership, in which &lsquo;the fruit of righteousness is sown in peace of them
+ that make peace.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I fell asleep on that first Sunday night in Edinburgh, after the
+ somewhat unusual experience of three church services in a single day,
+ three separate notes of memory floated in and out of the fabric of my
+ dreams; the sound of the soldiers&rsquo; feet marching into old St. Giles&rsquo; to
+ the strains of &lsquo;Abide with me&rsquo;; the voice of the Reverend Ronald ringing
+ out with manly insistence: &lsquo;It is aspiration that counts, not realisation;
+ pursuit, not achievement; quest, not conquest!&rsquo;&mdash;and the closing
+ phrases of the Friar&rsquo;s prayer; &lsquo;When Christ has forgiven us, help us to
+ forgive ourselves! Help us to forgive ourselves so fully that we can even
+ forget ourselves, remembering only Him! And so let His kingdom come; we
+ ask it for the King&rsquo;s sake, Amen.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter X. Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop as a sermon-taster.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Even at this time of Assemblies, when the atmosphere is almost exclusively
+ clerical and ecclesiastical, the two great church armies represented here
+ certainly conceal from the casual observer all rivalries and jealousies,
+ if indeed they cherish any. As for the two dissenting bodies, the Church
+ of the Disruption and the Church of the Secession have been keeping
+ company, so to speak, for some years, with a distant eye to an eventual
+ union. In the light of all this pleasant toleration, it seems difficult to
+ realise that earlier Edinburgh, where, we learned from old parochial
+ records of 1605, Margaret Sinclair was cited by the Session of the Kirk
+ for being at the &lsquo;Burne&rsquo; for water on the Sabbath; that Janet Merling was
+ ordered to make public repentance for concealing a bairn unbaptized in her
+ house for the space of twenty weeks and calling said bairn Janet; that Pat
+ Richardson had to crave mercy for being found in his boat in time of
+ afternoon service; and that Janet Walker, accused of having visitors in
+ her house in sermon-time, had to confess her offence and on her knees
+ crave mercy of God AND the Kirk Session (which no doubt was much worse)
+ under penalty of a hundred pounds Scots. Possibly there are people yet who
+ would prefer to pay a hundred pounds rather than hear a sermon, but they
+ are few.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was in the early seventeen hundred and thirties when Allan Ramsay, &lsquo;in
+ fear and trembling of legal and clerical censure,&rsquo; lent out the plays of
+ Congreve and Farquhar from his famous High Street library. In 1756 it was,
+ that the Presbytery of Edinburgh suspended all clergymen who had witnessed
+ the representation of Douglas, that virtuous tragedy written, to the
+ dismay of all Scotland, by a minister of the Kirk. That the world, even
+ the theological world, moves with tolerable rapidity when once set in
+ motion, is evinced by the fact that on Mrs. Siddons&rsquo; second engagement in
+ Edinburgh, in the summer of 1785, vast crowds gathered about the doors of
+ the theatre, not at night alone, but in the day, to secure places. It
+ became necessary to admit them first at three in the afternoon and then at
+ noon, and eventually &lsquo;the General Assembly of the Church then in session
+ was compelled to arrange its meetings with reference to the appearance of
+ the great actress.&rsquo; How one would have enjoyed hearing that Scotsman say,
+ after one of her most splendid flights of tragic passion, &lsquo;That&rsquo;s no bad!&rsquo;
+ We have read of her dismay at this ludicrous parsimony of praise, but her
+ self-respect must have been restored when the Edinburgh ladies fainted by
+ dozens during her impersonation of Isabella in The Fatal Marriage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Since Scottish hospitality is well-nigh inexhaustible, it is not strange
+ that from the moment Edinburgh streets began to be crowded with ministers,
+ our drawing-room table began to bear shoals of engraved invitations of
+ every conceivable sort, all equally unfamiliar to our American eyes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;The Purse-Bearer is commanded by the Lord High Commissioner and the
+ Marchioness of Heatherdale to invite Miss Hamilton to a Garden Party at
+ the Palace of Holyrood House, on the 27th of May. WEATHER PERMITTING.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;The General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland admits Miss Hamilton
+ to any gallery on any day.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;The Marchioness of Heatherdale is At Home on the 26th of May from a
+ quarter-past nine in the evening. Palace of Holyrood House.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;The Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland is
+ At Home in the Library of the New College on Saturday, the 22nd of May,
+ from eight to ten in the evening.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;The Moderator asks the pleasure of Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s presence at a
+ Breakfast to be given on the morning of the 25th May at Dunedin Hotel.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We determined to go to all these functions impartially, tracking thus the
+ Presbyterian lion to his very lair, and observing his home as well as his
+ company manners. In everything that related to the distinctively religious
+ side of the proceedings we sought advice from Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, while we went
+ to Lady Baird for definite information on secular matters. We also found
+ an unexpected ally in the person of our own ex-Moderator&rsquo;s niece, Miss
+ Jean Dalziel (Deeyell). She has been educated in Paris, but she must
+ always have been a delightfully breezy person, quite too irrepressible to
+ be affected by Scottish haar or theology. &ldquo;Go to the Assemblies, by all
+ means,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;and be sure and get places for the heresy case. These
+ are no longer what they once were,&mdash;we are getting lamentably weak
+ and gelatinous in our beliefs,&mdash;but there is an unusually nice one
+ this year; the heretic is very young and handsome, and quite wicked, as
+ ministers go. Don&rsquo;t fail to be presented at the Marchioness&rsquo;s court at
+ Holyrood, for it is a capital preparation for the ordeal of Her Majesty
+ and Buckingham Palace. &lsquo;Nothing fit to wear&rsquo;? You have never seen the
+ people who go or you wouldn&rsquo;t say that! I even advise you to attend one of
+ the breakfasts; it can&rsquo;t do you any serious or permanent injury so long as
+ you eat something before you go. Oh no, it doesn&rsquo;t matter,&mdash;whichever
+ one you choose, you will cheerfully omit the other; for I avow, as a
+ Scottish spinster, and the niece of an ex-Moderator, that to a stranger
+ and a foreigner the breakfasts are worse than Arctic explorations. If you
+ do not chance to be at the table of honour&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The gifted Miss Hamilton is always at the table of honour; unless she is
+ placed there she refuses to eat, and then the universe rocks to its
+ centre,&rdquo; interpolated Francesca impertinently.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is true,&rdquo; continued Miss Dalziel, &ldquo;you will often sit beside a
+ minister or a minister&rsquo;s wife, who will make you scorn the sordid
+ appetites of flesh, but if you do not, then eat as little as may be, and
+ flee up the Mound to whichever Assembly is the Mecca of your soul!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;My niece&rsquo;s tongue is an unruly member,&rdquo; said the ex-Moderator, who was
+ present at this diatribe, &ldquo;and the principal mistakes she makes in her
+ judgment of these clerical feasts is that she criticises them as
+ conventional repasts, whereas they are intended to be informal meetings
+ together of people who wish to be better acquainted.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Hot bacon and eggs would be no harm to friendship,&rdquo; answered Miss
+ Dalziel, with an affectionate moue.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Cold bacon and eggs is better than cold piety,&rdquo; said the ex-Moderator,
+ &ldquo;and it may be a good discipline for fastidious young ladies who have been
+ spoiled by Parisian breakfasts.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is to Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop that we owe our chief insight into technical church
+ matters, although we seldom agree with her &lsquo;opeenions&rsquo; after we gain our
+ own experience. She never misses hearing one sermon on a Sabbath, and
+ oftener she listens to two or three. Neither does she confine herself to
+ the ministrations of a single preacher, but roves from one sanctuary to
+ another, seeking the bread of life,&mdash;often, however, according to her
+ own account, getting a particularly indigestible &lsquo;stane.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She is thus a complete guide to the Edinburgh pulpit, and when she is
+ making a bed in the morning she dispenses criticism in so large and
+ impartial a manner that it would make the flesh of the &lsquo;meenistry&rsquo; creep
+ were it overheard. I used to think Ian Maclaren&rsquo;s sermon-taster a possible
+ exaggeration of an existent type, but I now see that she is truth itself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ye&rsquo;ll be tryin&rsquo; anither kirk the morn?&rdquo; suggests Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, spreading
+ the clean Sunday sheet over the mattress. &ldquo;Wha did ye hear the Sawbath
+ that&rsquo;s bye? Dr. A? Ay, I ken him ower weel; he&rsquo;s been there for fifteen
+ years an&rsquo; mair. Ay, he&rsquo;s a gifted mon&mdash;AFF AN&rsquo; ON!&rdquo; with an emphasis
+ showing clearly that, in her estimation, the times when he is &lsquo;aff&rsquo;
+ outnumber those when he is &lsquo;on&rsquo;... &ldquo;Ye havena heard auld Dr. B yet?&rdquo; (Here
+ she tucks in the upper sheet tidily at the foot.) &ldquo;He&rsquo;s a graund
+ strachtforrit mon, is Dr. B, forbye he&rsquo;s growin&rsquo; maist awfu&rsquo; dreich in his
+ sermons, though when he&rsquo;s that wearisome a body canna heed him wi&rsquo;oot
+ takin&rsquo; peppermints to the kirk, he&rsquo;s nane the less, at seeventy-sax, a
+ better mon than the new asseestant. Div ye ken the new asseestant? He&rsquo;s a
+ wee-bit, finger-fed mannie, ower sma&rsquo; maist to wear a goon! I canna thole
+ him, wi&rsquo; his lang-nebbit words, explainin&rsquo; an&rsquo; expoundin&rsquo; the gude Book as
+ if it had jist come oot! The auld doctor&rsquo;s nae kirk-filler, but he gies us
+ fu&rsquo; meesure, pressed doun an&rsquo; rinnin&rsquo; ower, nae bit-pickin&rsquo;s like the
+ haverin&rsquo; asseestant; it&rsquo;s my opeenion he&rsquo;s no soond, wi&rsquo; his parleyvoos
+ an&rsquo; his clishmaclavers!... Mr. C?&rdquo; (Now comes the shaking and
+ straightening and smoothing of the first blanket.) &ldquo;Ay, he&rsquo;s weel eneuch!
+ I mind aince he prayed for oor Free Assembly, an&rsquo; then he turned roon&rsquo; an&rsquo;
+ prayed for the Estaiblished, maist in the same breath,&mdash;he&rsquo;s a broad,
+ leeberal mon is Mr. C!... Mr. D? Ay, I ken him fine; he micht be waur,
+ though he&rsquo;s ower fond o&rsquo; the kittle pairts o&rsquo; the Old Testament; but he
+ reads his sermon frae the paper, an&rsquo; it&rsquo;s an auld sayin&rsquo;, &lsquo;If a meenister
+ canna mind [remember] his ain discoorse, nae mair can the congregation be
+ expectit to mind it.&rsquo;... Mr. E? He&rsquo;s my ain meenister.&rdquo; (She has a pillow
+ in her mouth now, but though she is shaking it as a terrier would a rat,
+ and drawing on the linen slip at the same time, she is still intelligible
+ between the jerks). &ldquo;Susanna says his sermon is like claith made o&rsquo; soond
+ &lsquo;oo [wool] wi&rsquo; a guid twined thread, an&rsquo; wairpit an&rsquo; weftit wi&rsquo; doctrine.
+ Susanna kens her Bible weel, but she&rsquo;s never gaed forrit.&rdquo; (To &lsquo;gang
+ forrit&rsquo; is to take the communion). &ldquo;Dr. F? I ca&rsquo; him the greetin&rsquo; doctor!
+ He&rsquo;s aye dingin&rsquo; the dust oot o&rsquo; the poopit cushions, an&rsquo; greetin&rsquo; ower
+ the sins o&rsquo; the human race, an&rsquo; eespecially o&rsquo; his ain congregation. He&rsquo;s
+ waur sin his last wife sickened an&rsquo; slippit awa&rsquo;. &lsquo;Twas a chastenin&rsquo; he&rsquo;d
+ put up wi&rsquo; twice afore, but he grat nane the less. She was a bonnie bit
+ body, was the thurd Mistress F! E&rsquo;nboro could &lsquo;a&rsquo; better spared the
+ greetin&rsquo; doctor than her, I&rsquo;m thinkin&rsquo;.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away, according to His good will and
+ pleasure,&rdquo; I ventured piously, as Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop beat the bolster and laid
+ it in place.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ou ay,&rdquo; responded that good woman, as she spread the counterpane over the
+ pillows in the way I particularly dislike,&mdash;&ldquo;ou ay, but whiles I
+ think it&rsquo;s a peety he couldna be guidit!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XI. Holyrood awakens.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ We were to make our bow to the Lord High Commissioner and the Marchioness
+ of Heatherdale in the evening, and we were in a state of republican
+ excitement at 22 Breadalbane Terrace.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca had surprised us by refusing to be presented at this semi-royal
+ Scottish court. &ldquo;Not I,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;The Marchioness represents the Queen;
+ we may discover, when we arrive, that she has raised the standards of
+ admission, and requires us to &lsquo;back out&rsquo; of the throne-room. I don&rsquo;t
+ propose to do that without London training. Besides, I detest crowds, and
+ I never go to my own President&rsquo;s receptions; and I have a headache,
+ anyway, and I don&rsquo;t feel like coping with the Reverend Ronald to-night!&rdquo;
+ (Lady Baird was to take us under her wing, and her nephew was to escort
+ us, Sir Robert being in Inveraray).
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sally, my dear,&rdquo; I said, as Francesca left the room with a bottle of
+ smelling-salts somewhat ostentatiously in evidence, &ldquo;methinks the damsel
+ doth protest too much. In other words, she devotes a good deal of time and
+ discussion to a gentleman whom she heartily dislikes. As she is under your
+ care, I will direct your attention to the following points:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ronald Macdonald is a Scotsman; Francesca disapproves of international
+ alliances.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He is a Presbyterian; she is a Swedenborgian.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;His father was a famous old-school doctor; Francesca is a homoeopathist.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He is serious; Francesca is gay.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I think, under all the circumstances, their acquaintance will bear
+ watching. Two persons so utterly dissimilar, and, so far as superficial
+ observation goes, so entirely unsuited to each other, are quite likely to
+ drift into marriage unless diverted by watchful philanthropists.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nonsense!&rdquo; returned Salemina brusquely. &ldquo;You think because you are under
+ the spell of the tender passion yourself that other people are in constant
+ danger. Francesca detests him.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Who told you so?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She herself,&rdquo; triumphantly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Salemina,&rdquo; I said pityingly, &ldquo;I have always believed you a spinster from
+ choice; don&rsquo;t lead me to think that you have never had any experience in
+ these matters! The Reverend Ronald has also intimated to me as plainly as
+ he dared that he cannot bear the sight of Francesca. What do I gather from
+ this statement? The general conclusion that if it be true, it is curious
+ that he looks at her incessantly.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Francesca would never live in Scotland,&rdquo; remarked Salemina feebly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not unless she were asked, of course,&rdquo; I replied.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He would never ask her.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not unless he thought he had a chance of an affirmative answer.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Her father would never allow it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Her father allows what she permits him to allow. You know that perfectly
+ well.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What shall I do about it, then?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Consult me.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What shall WE do about it?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Let Nature have her own way.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t believe in Nature.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t be profane, Salemina, and don&rsquo;t be unromantic, which is worse; but
+ if you insist, trust in Providence.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I would rather trust Francesca&rsquo;s hard heart.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The hardest hearts melt if sufficient heat be applied. Did I take you to
+ Newhaven and read you Christie Johnstone on the beach for nought? Don&rsquo;t
+ you remember Charles Reade said that the Scotch are icebergs, with
+ volcanoes underneath; thaw the Scotch ice, which is very cold, and you
+ shall get to the Scotch fire, warmer than any sun of Italy or Spain. I
+ think Mr. Macdonald is a volcano.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I wish he were extinct,&rdquo; said Salemina petulantly; &ldquo;and I wish you
+ wouldn&rsquo;t make me nervous.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If you had any faculty of premonition, you wouldn&rsquo;t have waited for me to
+ make you nervous.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Some people are singularly omniscient.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Others are singularly deficient&mdash;&rdquo; And at this moment Susanna Crum
+ came in to announce Miss Jean Dalziel, who had come to see sights with us.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was our almost daily practice to walk through the Old Town, and we were
+ now familiar with every street and close in that densely-crowded quarter.
+ Our quest for the sites of ancient landmarks never grew monotonous, and we
+ were always reconstructing, in imagination, the Cowgate, the Canongate,
+ the Lawnmarket, and the High Street, until we could see Auld Reekie as it
+ was in bygone centuries. In those days of continual war with England,
+ people crowded their dwellings as near the Castle as possible, so floor
+ was piled upon floor, and flat upon flat, families ensconcing themselves
+ above other families, the tendency being ever skyward. Those who dwelt on
+ top had no desire to spend their strength in carrying down the corkscrew
+ stairs matter which would descend by the force of gravity if pitched from
+ the window or door; so the wayfarer, especially after dusk, would be
+ greeted with cries of &lsquo;Get oot o&rsquo; the gait!&rsquo; or &lsquo;Gardy loo!&rsquo; which was in
+ the French &lsquo;Gardez l&rsquo;eau,&rsquo; and which would have been understood in any
+ language, I fancy, after a little experience. The streets then were filled
+ with the debris flung from a hundred upper windows, while certain
+ ground-floor tenants, such as butchers and candlemakers, contributed their
+ full share to the fragrant heaps. As for these too seldom used narrow
+ turnpike stairs, imagine the dames of fashion tilting their vast hoops and
+ silken show-petticoats up and down in them!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ That swine roamed at will in these Elysian fields is to be presumed, since
+ we have this amusing picture of three High Street belles and beauties in
+ the Traditions of Edinburgh:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;So easy were the manners of the great, fabled to be so stiff and
+ decorous,&rsquo; says the author, &lsquo;that Lady Maxwell&rsquo;s daughter Jane, who
+ afterward became the Duchess of Gordon, was seen riding a sow up the High
+ Street, while her sister Eglantine (afterwards Lady Wallace of Craigie)
+ thumped lustily behind with a stick.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ No wonder, in view of all this, that King James VI., when about to bring
+ home his &lsquo;darrest spous,&rsquo; Anne of Denmark, wrote to the Provost, &lsquo;For
+ God&rsquo;s sake see a&rsquo; things are richt at our hame-coming; a king with a
+ new-married wife doesna come hame ilka day.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Had it not been for these royal home-comings and visits of distinguished
+ foreigners, now and again aided by something still more salutary, an
+ occasional outbreak of the plague, the easy-going authorities would never
+ have issued any &lsquo;cleaning edicts,&rsquo; and the still easier-going inhabitants
+ would never have obeyed them. It was these dark, tortuous wynds and
+ closes, nevertheless, that made up the Court End of Old Edinbro&rsquo;; for some
+ one writes in 1530, &lsquo;Via vaccarum in qua habitant patricii et senatores
+ urbis&rsquo; (The nobility and chief senators of the city dwell in the Cowgate).
+ And as for the Canongate, this Saxon gaet or way of the Holy rood canons,
+ it still sheltered in 1753 &lsquo;two dukes, sixteen earls, two dowager
+ countesses, seven lords, seven lords of session, thirteen baronets, four
+ commanders of the forces in Scotland, and five eminent men,&rsquo;&mdash;fine
+ game indeed for Mally Lee!
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;A&rsquo; doun alang the Canongate
+ Were beaux o&rsquo; ilk degree;
+ And mony ane turned round to look
+ At bonny Mally Lee.
+ And we&rsquo;re a&rsquo; gaun east an&rsquo; west,
+ We&rsquo;re a&rsquo; gaun agee,
+ We&rsquo;re a&rsquo; gaun east an&rsquo; west
+ Courtin&rsquo; Mally Lee!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Every corner bristles with memories. Here is the Stamp Office Close, from
+ which the lovely Susanna, Countess of Eglinton, was wont to issue on
+ assembly nights; she, six feet in height, with a brilliantly fair
+ complexion, and a &lsquo;face of the maist bewitching loveliness.&rsquo; Her seven
+ daughters and stepdaughters were all conspicuously handsome, and it was
+ deemed a goodly sight to watch the long procession of eight gilded
+ sedan-chairs pass from the Stamp Office Close, bearing her and her stately
+ brood to the Assembly Room, amid a crowd that was &lsquo;hushed with respect and
+ admiration to behold their lofty and graceful figures step from the chairs
+ on the pavement.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here itself is the site of those old assemblies, presided over at one time
+ by the famous Miss Nicky Murray, a directress of society affairs, who
+ seems to have been a feminine premonition of Count d&rsquo;Orsay and our own
+ M&rsquo;Allister. Rather dull they must have been, those old Scotch balls, where
+ Goldsmith saw the ladies and gentlemen in two dismal groups divided by the
+ length of the room.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The Assembly Close received the fair&mdash;
+ Order and elegance presided there&mdash;
+ Each gay Right Honourable had her place,
+ To walk a minuet with becoming grace.
+ No racing to the dance with rival hurry,
+ Such was thy sway, O famed Miss Nicky Murray!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ It was half-past nine in the evening when Salemina and I drove to
+ Holyrood, our humble cab-horse jogging faithfully behind Lady Baird&rsquo;s
+ brougham, and it was the new experience of seeing Auld Reekie by lamplight
+ that called up these gay visions of other days,&mdash;visions and days so
+ thoroughly our mental property that we could not help resenting the fact
+ that women were hanging washing from the Countess of Eglinton&rsquo;s former
+ windows, and popping their unkempt heads out of the Duchess of Gordon&rsquo;s
+ old doorway.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Reverend Ronald is so kind! He enters so fully into our spirit of
+ inquiry, and takes such pleasure in our enthusiasms! He even sprang
+ lightly out of Lady Baird&rsquo;s carriage and called to our &lsquo;lamiter&rsquo; to halt
+ while he showed us the site of the Black Turnpike, from whose windows
+ Queen Mary saw the last of her kingdom&rsquo;s capital.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Here was the Black Turnpike, Miss Hamilton!&rdquo; he cried; &ldquo;and from here
+ Mary went to Loch Leven, where you Hamiltons and the Setons came gallantly
+ to her help. Don&rsquo;t you remember the &lsquo;far ride to the Solway sands?&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked with interest, though I was in such a state of delicious
+ excitement that I could scarce keep my seat.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Only a few minutes more, Salemina,&rdquo; I sighed, &ldquo;and we shall be in the
+ palace courtyard; then a probable half-hour in crowded dressing-rooms,
+ with another half-hour in line, and then, then we shall be making our best
+ republican bow in the Gallery of the Kings! How I wish Mr. Beresford and
+ Francesca were with us! What do you suppose was her real reason for
+ staying away? Some petty disagreement with our young minister, I am sure.
+ Do you think the dampness is taking the curl out of our hair? Do you
+ suppose our gowns will be torn to ribbons before the Marchioness sees
+ them? Do you believe we shall look as well as anybody? Privately, I think
+ we must look better than anybody; but I always think that on my way to a
+ party, never after I arrive.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop had asserted that I was &lsquo;bonnie eneuch for ony court,&rsquo; and I
+ could not help wishing that &lsquo;mine ain dear Somebody&rsquo; might see me in my
+ French frock embroidered with silver thistles, and my &lsquo;shower bouquet&rsquo; of
+ Scottish bluebells tied loosely together. Salemina wore pinky-purple
+ velvet; a real heather colour it was, though the Lord High Commissioner
+ would probably never note the fact.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When we had presented our cards of invitation at the palace doors, we
+ joined the throng and patiently made our way up the splendid staircases,
+ past powdered lackeys without number, and, divested of our wraps, joined
+ another throng on our way to the throne-room, Salemina and I pressing
+ those cards with our names &lsquo;legibly written on them&rsquo; close to our
+ palpitating breasts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At last the moment came when, Lady Baird having preceded me, I handed my
+ bit of pasteboard to the usher; and hearing &lsquo;Miss Hamilton&rsquo; called in
+ stentorian accents, I went forward in my turn, and executed a graceful and
+ elegant, but not too profound curtsy, carefully arranged to suit the
+ semi-royal, semi-ecclesiastical occasion. I had not divulged that fact
+ even to Salemina, but I had worn Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s carpet quite threadbare
+ in front of the long mirror, and had curtsied to myself so many times in
+ its crystal surface that I had developed a sort of fictitious reverence
+ for my reflected image. I had only begun my well-practised obeisance when
+ Her Grace the Marchioness, to my mingled surprise and embarrassment,
+ extended a gracious hand and murmured my name in a particularly kind
+ voice. She is fond of Lady Baird, and perhaps chose this method of showing
+ her friendship; or it may be that she noticed my silver thistles and
+ Salemina&rsquo;s heather-coloured velvet,&mdash;they certainly deserved special
+ recognition; or it may be that I was too beautiful to pass over in
+ silence,&mdash;in my state of exaltation I was quite equal to the belief.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The presentation over, we wandered through the spacious apartments,
+ leaning from the open windows to hear the music of the band playing in the
+ courtyard below, looking at the royal portraits, and chatting with groups
+ of friends who appeared and reappeared in the throng. Finally Lady Baird
+ sent for us to join her in a knot of personages more or less
+ distinguished, who had dined at the palace, and who were standing behind
+ the receiving party in a sort of sacred group. This indeed was a ground of
+ vantage, and one could have stood there for hours, watching all sorts and
+ conditions of men and women bowing before the Lord High Commissioner and
+ the Marchioness, who, with her Cleopatra-like beauty and scarlet gown,
+ looked like a gorgeous cardinal-flower.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina and I watched the curtsying narrowly, with the view at first of
+ improving our own obeisances for Buckingham Palace; but truth to say we
+ got no added light, and plainly most of the people had not worn threadbare
+ the carpets in front of their dressing-mirrors.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly we heard a familiar name announced, &lsquo;Lord Colquhoun,&rsquo; a
+ distinguished judge who had lately been raised to the peerage, and whom we
+ often met at dinners; then &lsquo;Miss Rowena Colquhoun&rsquo;; and then in the midst,
+ we fancied, of an unusual stir at the entrance door&mdash;&lsquo;Miss Francesca
+ Van Buren Monroe.&rsquo; I involuntarily touched the Reverend Ronald&rsquo;s shoulder
+ in my astonishment, while Salemina lifted her tortoise-shell lorgnette,
+ and we gazed silently at our recreant charge.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After presentation, each person has fifteen or twenty feet of awful space
+ to traverse in solitary and defenceless majesty; scanned meanwhile by the
+ maids of honour (who if they were truly honourable, would turn their eyes
+ another way), ladies-in-waiting, the sacred group in the rear, and the
+ Purse-Bearer himself. I had supposed that this functionary would keep the
+ purse in his upper bureau drawer at home, when he was not paying bills,
+ but it seems that when on processional duty he carries a bag of red velvet
+ quite a yard long over his arm, where it looks not unlike a lady&rsquo;s
+ opera-cloak. It would hold the sum-total of all moneys disbursed, even if
+ they were reduced to the standard of vulgar copper.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Under this appalling fire of inspection, some of the victims waddle, some
+ hurry; some look up and down nervously, others glance over the shoulder as
+ if dreading to be apprehended; some turn red, others pale, according to
+ complexion and temperament; some swing their arms, other trip on their
+ gowns; some twitch the buttons of a glove, or tweak a flower or a jewel.
+ Francesca rose superior to all these weaknesses, and I doubt if the
+ Gallery of the Kings ever served as a background for anything lovelier or
+ more high-bred than that untitled slip of a girl from &lsquo;the States.&rsquo; Her
+ trailing gown of pearl-white satin fell in unbroken lustrous folds behind
+ her. Her beautiful throat and shoulders rose in statuesque whiteness from
+ the mist of chiffon that encircled them. Her dark hair showed a moonbeam
+ parting that rested the eye, wearied by the contemplation of waves and
+ frizzes fresh from the curling-tongs. Her mother&rsquo;s pearls hung in ropes
+ from neck to waist, and the one spot of colour about her was the single
+ American Beauty rose she carried. There is a patriotic florist in Paris
+ who grows these long-stemmed empresses of the rose-garden, and Mr.
+ Beresford sends some to me every week. Francesca had taken the flower
+ without permission, and I must say she was as worthy of it as it of her.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She curtsied deeply, with no exaggerated ceremony, but with a sort of
+ innocent and childlike gravity, while the satin of her gown spread itself
+ like a great blossom over the floor. Her head was bowed until the dark
+ lashes swept her crimson cheeks; then she rose again from the heart of the
+ shimmering lily, with the one splendid rose glowing against all her
+ dazzling whiteness, and floated slowly across the dreaded space to the
+ door of exit as if she were preceded by invisible heralds and followed by
+ invisible train-bearers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Who is she?&rdquo; we heard whispered here and there. &ldquo;Look at the rose!&rdquo; &ldquo;Look
+ at the pearls! Is she a princess or only an American?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I glanced at the Reverend Ronald. I imagined he looked pale; at any rate
+ he was biting his under lip nervously, and I believe he was in fancy
+ laying his serious, Scottish, allopathic, Presbyterian heart at
+ Francesca&rsquo;s gay, American, homoeopathic, Swedenborgian feet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is a pity Miss Monroe is such an ardent republican,&rdquo; he said, with
+ unconcealed bitterness; &ldquo;otherwise she ought to be a duchess. I never saw
+ a head that better suited a coronet, nor, if you will pardon me, one that
+ contained more caprices.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is true she flatly refused to accompany us here,&rdquo; I allowed, &ldquo;but
+ perhaps she has some explanation more or less silly and serviceable;
+ meantime, I defy you to tell me she isn&rsquo;t a beauty, and I implore you to
+ say nothing about its being only skin-deep. Give me a beautiful exterior,
+ say I, and I will spend my life in making the hidden things of mind and
+ soul conform to it; but deliver me from all forlorn attempts to make my
+ beauty of character speak through a large mouth, breathe through a fat
+ nose, and look at my neighbour through crossed eyes!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Macdonald agreed with me, with some few ministerial reservations. He
+ always agrees with me, and why he is not tortured at the thought of my
+ being the promised bride of another, but continues to squander his
+ affections upon a quarrelsome and unappreciative girl is more than I can
+ comprehend.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca, escorted by Lord Colquhoun, appeared presently in our group,
+ but Salemina did not even attempt to scold her. One cannot scold an
+ imperious young beauty in white satin and pearls, particularly if she is
+ leaning nonchalantly on the arm of a peer of the realm.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seems that shortly after our departure (we had dined with Lady Baird),
+ Lord Colquhoun had sent a note to me, requiring an answer. Francesca had
+ opened it, and found that he offered an extra card of invitation to one of
+ us, and said that he and his sister would gladly serve as escort to
+ Holyrood, if desired. She had had an hour or two of solitude by this time,
+ and was well weary of it, while the last vestige of headache disappeared
+ under the temptation of appearing at court with all the eclat of
+ unexpectedness. She despatched a note of acceptance to Lord Colquhoun,
+ summoned Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop, Susanna, and the maiden Boots to her assistance,
+ spread the trays of her Saratoga trunks about our three bedrooms, grouped
+ all our candles on her dressing-table, and borrowed any trinket or bit of
+ frippery which we chanced to have left behind. Her own store of adornments
+ is much greater than ours, but we possess certain articles for which she
+ has a childlike admiration: my white satin slippers embroidered with seed
+ pearls, Salemina&rsquo;s pearl-topped comb, Salemina&rsquo;s Valenciennes handkerchief
+ and diamond belt-clasp, my pearl frog with ruby eyes. We identified our
+ property on her impertinent young person, and the list of her borrowings
+ so amused the Reverend Ronald that he forgot his injuries.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is really an ordeal, that presentation, no matter how strong one&rsquo;s
+ sense of humour may be, nor how well rooted one&rsquo;s democracy,&rdquo; chattered
+ Francesca to a serried rank of officers who surrounded her to the total
+ routing of the ministry. &ldquo;It is especially trying if one has come
+ unexpectedly and has no idea of what is to happen. I was agitated at the
+ supreme moment, because, at the entrance of the throne-room, I had just
+ shaken hands reverently with a splendid person who proved to be a footman.
+ Of course I took him for the Commander of the Queen&rsquo;s Guards, or the
+ Keeper of the Dungeon Keys, or the Most Noble Custodian of the Royal
+ Moats, Drawbridges, and Portcullises. When he put out his hand I had no
+ idea it was simply to waft me onward, and so naturally I shook it,&mdash;it&rsquo;s
+ a mercy that I didn&rsquo;t kiss it! Then I curtsied to the Royal Usher, and
+ overlooked the Lord High Commissioner altogether, having no eyes for any
+ one but the beautiful scarlet Marchioness. I only hope they were too busy
+ to notice my mistakes, otherwise I shall be banished from Court at the
+ very moment of my presentation.&mdash;Do you still banish nowadays?&rdquo;
+ turning the battery of her eyes upon a particularly insignificant officer
+ who was far too dazed to answer. &ldquo;And did you see the child of ten who was
+ next to me in line? She is Mrs. Macstronachlacher; at least that was the
+ name on the card she carried, and she was thus announced. As they tell us
+ the Purse-Bearer is most rigorous in arranging these functions and issuing
+ the invitations, I presume she must be Mrs. Macstronachlacher; but if so,
+ they marry very young in Scotland, and her skirts should really have been
+ longer!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XII. Farewell to Edinburgh.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ It is our last day in &lsquo;Scotia&rsquo;s darling seat,&rsquo; our last day in Breadalbane
+ Terrace, our last day with Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop; and though every one says that
+ we shall love the life in the country, we are loath to leave Auld Reekie.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina and I have spent two days in search of an abiding-place, and have
+ visited eight well-recommended villages with that end in view; but she
+ disliked four of them, and I couldn&rsquo;t endure the other four, though I
+ considered some of those that fell under her disapproval as quite
+ delightful in every respect.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We never take Francesca on these pilgrimages of disagreement, as three
+ conflicting opinions on the same subject would make insupportable what is
+ otherwise rather exhilarating. She starts from Edinburgh to-morrow for a
+ brief visit to the Highlands with the Dalziels, and will join us when we
+ have settled ourselves.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Beresford leaves Paris as soon after our decision as he is permitted,
+ so Salemina and I have agreed to agree upon one ideal spot within
+ thirty-six hours of our quitting Edinburgh, knowing privately that after a
+ last battle-royal we shall enthusiastically support the joint decision for
+ the rest of our lives.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have been bidding good-bye to people and places and things, and wishing
+ the sun would not shine and thus make our task the harder. We have looked
+ our last on the old grey town from Calton Hill, of all places the best,
+ perhaps, for a view; since, as Stevenson says, from Calton Hill you can
+ see the Castle, which you lose from the Castle, and Arthur&rsquo;s Seat, which
+ you cannot see from Arthur&rsquo;s Seat. We have taken a farewell walk to the
+ Dean Bridge, to gaze wistfully eastward and marvel for the hundredth time
+ to find so beautiful a spot in the heart of a city. The soft-flowing Water
+ of Leith winding over pebbles between grassy banks and groups of splendid
+ trees, the roof of the little temple to Hygeia rising picturesquely among
+ green branches, the slopes of emerald velvet leading up to the grey stone
+ of the houses,&mdash;where, in all the world of cities, can one find a
+ view to equal it in peaceful loveliness? Francesca&rsquo;s &lsquo;bridge-man,&rsquo; who, by
+ the way, proved to be a distinguished young professor of medicine in the
+ University, says that the beautiful cities of the world should be ranked
+ thus,&mdash;Constantinople, Prague, Genoa, Edinburgh; but having seen only
+ one of these, and that the last, I refuse to credit any sliding scale of
+ comparison which leaves Edina at the foot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was nearing tea-time, an hour when we never fail to have visitors, and
+ we were all in the drawing-room together. I was at the piano, singing
+ Jacobite melodies for Salemina&rsquo;s delectation. When I came to the last
+ verse of Lady Nairne&rsquo;s &lsquo;Hundred Pipers,&rsquo; the spirited words had taken my
+ fancy captive, and I am sure I could not have sung with more vigour and
+ passion had my people been &lsquo;out with the Chevalier.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The Esk was swollen sae red an&rsquo; sae deep,
+ But shouther to shouther the brave lads keep;
+ Twa thousand swam owre to fell English ground,
+ An&rsquo; danced themselves dry to the pibroch&rsquo;s sound.
+ Dumfounder&rsquo;d the English saw, they saw,
+ Dumfounder&rsquo;d they heard the blaw, the blaw,
+ Dumfounder&rsquo;d they a&rsquo; ran awa&rsquo;, awa&rsquo;,
+ Frae the hundred pipers an&rsquo; a&rsquo;, an&rsquo; a&rsquo;!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ By the time I came to &lsquo;Dumfounder&rsquo;d the English saw,&rsquo; Francesca left her
+ book and joined in the next four lines, and when we broke into the chorus
+ Salemina rushed to the piano, and although she cannot sing, she lifted her
+ voice both high and loud in the refrain, beating time the while with a
+ dirk paper-knife.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Wi&rsquo; a hundred pipers an&rsquo; a&rsquo;, an&rsquo; a&rsquo;,
+ Wi&rsquo; a hundred pipers an&rsquo; a&rsquo;, an&rsquo; a&rsquo;,
+ We&rsquo;ll up an&rsquo; gie them a blaw, a blaw,
+ Wi&rsquo; a hundred pipers an&rsquo; a&rsquo;, an&rsquo; a&rsquo;!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Susanna ushered in Mr. Macdonald and Dr. Moncrieffe as the last &lsquo;blaw&rsquo;
+ faded into silence, and Jean Dalziel came upstairs to say that they could
+ seldom get a quiet moment for family prayers, because we were always at
+ the piano, hurling incendiary sentiments into the air,&mdash;sentiments
+ set to such stirring melodies that no one could resist them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We are very sorry, Miss Dalziel,&rdquo; I said penitently. &ldquo;We reserve an hour
+ in the morning and another at bedtime for your uncle&rsquo;s prayers, but we had
+ no idea you had them at afternoon tea, even in Scotland. I believe that
+ you are chaffing, and came up only to swell the chorus. Come, let us all
+ sing together from &lsquo;Dumfounder&rsquo;d the English saw.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Macdonald and Dr. Moncrieffe gave such splendid body to the music, and
+ Jean such warlike energy, that Salemina waved her paper-knife in a manner
+ more than ever sanguinary, and Susanna, hesitating outside the door for
+ sheer delight, had to be coaxed in with the tea-things. On the heels of
+ the tea-things came the Dominie, another dear old friend of six weeks&rsquo;
+ standing; and while the doctor sang &lsquo;Jock o&rsquo; Hazeldean&rsquo; with such
+ irresistible charm that we all longed to elope with somebody on the
+ instant, Salemina dispensed buttered toast, marmalade sandwiches, and the
+ fragrant cup. By this time we were thoroughly cosy, and Mr. Macdonald made
+ himself and us very much at home by stirring the fire; whereupon Francesca
+ embarrassed him by begging him not to touch it unless he could do it
+ properly, which, she added, seemed quite unlikely, from the way in which
+ he handled the poker.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What will Edinburgh do without you?&rdquo; he asked, turning towards us with
+ flattering sadness in his tone. &ldquo;Who will hear our Scotch stories, never
+ suspecting their hoary old age? Who will ask us questions to which we
+ somehow always know the answers? Who will make us study and reverence anew
+ our own landmarks? Who will keep warm our national and local pride by
+ judicious enthusiasm?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I think the national and local pride may be counted on to exist without
+ any artificial stimulants,&rdquo; dryly observed Francesca, whose spirit is not
+ in the least quenched by approaching departure.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perhaps,&rdquo; answered the Reverend Ronald; &ldquo;but at any rate, you, Miss
+ Monroe, will always be able to reflect that you have never been
+ responsible even for its momentary inflation!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Isn&rsquo;t it strange that she cannot get on better with that charming
+ fellow?&rdquo; murmured Salemina, as she passed me the sugar for my second cup.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If your present symptoms of blindness continue, Salemina,&rdquo; I said,
+ searching for a small lump so as to gain time, &ldquo;I shall write you a
+ plaintive ballad, buy you a dog, and stand you on a street corner! If you
+ had ever permitted yourself to &lsquo;get on&rsquo; with any man as Francesca is
+ getting on with Mr. Macdonald, you would now be Mrs.&mdash;Somebody.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you know, doctor,&rdquo; asked the Dominie, &ldquo;that Miss Hamilton shed real
+ tears at Holyrood the other night, when the band played &lsquo;Bonnie Charlie&rsquo;s
+ noo awa&rsquo;?&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;They were real,&rdquo; I confessed, &ldquo;in the sense that they certainly were not
+ crocodile tears; but I am somewhat at a loss to explain them from a
+ sensible, American standpoint. Of course my Jacobitism is purely
+ impersonal, though scarcely more so than yours, at this late day; at least
+ it is merely a poetic sentiment, for which Caroline, Baroness Nairne, is
+ mainly responsible. My romantic tears came from a vision of the Bonnie
+ Prince as he entered Holyrood, dressed in his short tartan coat, his
+ scarlet breeches and military boots, the star of St. Andrew on his breast,
+ a blue ribbon over his shoulder, and the famous blue velvet bonnet and
+ white cockade. He must have looked so brave and handsome and hopeful at
+ that moment, and the moment was so sadly brief, that when the band played
+ the plaintive air I kept hearing the words&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Mony a heart will break in twa,
+ Should he no come back again.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ He did come back again to me that evening, and held a phantom levee behind
+ the Marchioness of Heatherdale&rsquo;s shoulder. His &lsquo;ghaist&rsquo; looked bonnie and
+ rosy and confident, yet all the time the band was playing the requiem for
+ his lost cause and buried hopes.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked towards the fire to hide the moisture that crept again into my
+ eyes, and my glance fell upon Francesca sitting dreamily on a hassock in
+ front of the cheerful blaze, her chin in the hollow of her palm, and the
+ Reverend Ronald standing on the hearth-rug gazing at her, the poker in his
+ hand, and his heart, I regret to say, in such an exposed position on his
+ sleeve that even Salemina could have seen it had she turned her eyes that
+ way.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Jean Dalziel broke the momentary silence: &ldquo;I am sure I never hear the last
+ two lines&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Better lo&rsquo;ed ye canna be,
+ Will ye no&rsquo; come back again?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ without a lump in my throat,&rdquo; and she hummed the lovely melody. &ldquo;It is all
+ as you say, purely impersonal and poetic. My mother is an Englishwoman,
+ but she sings &lsquo;Dumfounder&rsquo;d the English saw, they saw&rsquo; with the greatest
+ fire and fury.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XIII. The spell of Scotland.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I think I was never so completely under the spell of a country as I am of
+ Scotland.&rdquo; I made this acknowledgment freely, but I knew that it would
+ provoke comment from my compatriots.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh yes, my dear, you have been just as spellbound before, only you don&rsquo;t
+ remember it,&rdquo; replied Salemina promptly. &ldquo;I have never seen a person more
+ perilously appreciative or receptive than you.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Perilously&rsquo; is just the word,&rdquo; chimed in Francesca delightedly; &ldquo;when
+ you care for a place you grow porous, as it were, until after a time you
+ are precisely like blotting-paper. Now, there was Italy, for example.
+ After eight weeks in Venice, you were completely Venetian, from your fan
+ to the ridiculous little crepe shawl you wore because an Italian prince
+ had told you that centuries were usually needed to teach a woman how to
+ wear a shawl, but that you had been born with the art, and the shoulders!
+ Anything but a watery street was repulsive to you. Cobblestones?
+ &lsquo;Ordinario, duro, brutto! A gondola? Ah, bellissima! Let me float for ever
+ thus!&rsquo; You bathed your spirit in sunshine and colour; I can hear you
+ murmur now, &lsquo;O Venezia benedetta! non ti voglio lasciar!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It was just the same when she spent a month in France with the Baroness
+ de Hautenoblesse,&rdquo; continued Salemina. &ldquo;When she returned to America, it
+ is no flattery to say that in dress, attitude, inflection, manner, she was
+ a thorough Parisienne. There was an elegant superficiality and a
+ superficial elegance about her that I can never forget, nor yet her
+ extraordinary volubility in a foreign language,&mdash;the fluency with
+ which she expressed her inmost soul on all topics without the aid of a
+ single irregular verb, for these she was never able to acquire; oh, it was
+ wonderful, but there was no affectation about it; she had simply been a
+ kind of blotting-paper, as Miss Monroe says, and France had written itself
+ all over her.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t wish to interfere with anybody&rsquo;s diagnosis,&rdquo; I interposed at the
+ first possible moment, &ldquo;but perhaps after you&rsquo;ve both finished your
+ psychologic investigation the subject may be allowed to explain herself
+ from the inside, so to speak. I won&rsquo;t deny the spell of Italy, but I think
+ the spell that Scotland casts over one is quite a different thing, more
+ spiritual, more difficult to break. Italy&rsquo;s charm has something physical
+ in it; it is born of blue sky, sunlit waves, soft atmosphere, orange
+ sails, and yellow moons, and appeals more to the senses. In Scotland the
+ climate certainly has nought to do with it, but the imagination is somehow
+ made captive. I am not enthralled by the past of Italy or France, for
+ instance.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course you are not at the present moment,&rdquo; said Francesca, &ldquo;because
+ you are enthralled by the past of Scotland, and even you cannot be the
+ slave of two pasts at the same time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I never was particularly enthralled by Italy&rsquo;s past,&rdquo; I argued with
+ exemplary patience, &ldquo;but the romance of Scotland has a flavour all its
+ own. I do not quite know the secret of it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It&rsquo;s the kilts and the pipes,&rdquo; said Francesca.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, the history.&rdquo; (This from Salemina.)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Or Sir Walter and the literature,&rdquo; suggested Mr. Macdonald.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;Or the songs and ballads,&rdquo; ventured Jean Dalziel.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There!&rdquo; I exclaimed triumphantly, &ldquo;you see for yourselves you have named
+ avenue after avenue along which one&rsquo;s mind is led in charmed subjection.
+ Where can you find battles that kindle your fancy like Falkirk and Flodden
+ and Culloden and Bannockburn? Where a sovereign that attracts, baffles,
+ repels, allures, like Mary Queen of Scots,&mdash;and where, tell me where,
+ is there a Pretender like Bonnie Prince Charlie? Think of the spirit in
+ those old Scottish matrons who could sing&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;I&rsquo;ll sell my rock, I&rsquo;ll sell my reel,
+ My rippling-kame and spinning-wheel,
+ To buy my lad a tartan plaid,
+ A braidsword, durk and white cockade.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; chimed in Salemina when I had finished quoting, &ldquo;or that other
+ verse that goes&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;I ance had sons, I now hae nane,
+ I bare them toiling sairlie;
+ But I would bear them a&rsquo; again
+ To lose them a&rsquo; for Charlie!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Isn&rsquo;t the enthusiasm almost beyond belief at this distance of time?&rdquo; she
+ went on; &ldquo;and isn&rsquo;t it a curious fact, as Mr. Macdonald told me a moment
+ ago, that though the whole country was vocal with songs for the lost cause
+ and the fallen race, not one in favour of the victors ever became
+ popular?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sympathy for the under dog, as Miss Monroe&rsquo;s countrywomen would say
+ picturesquely,&rdquo; remarked Mr. Macdonald.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t see why all the vulgarisms in the dictionary should be foisted on
+ the American girl,&rdquo; retorted Francesca loftily, &ldquo;unless, indeed, it is a
+ determined attempt to find spots upon the sun for fear we shall worship
+ it!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Quite so, quite so!&rdquo; returned the Reverend Ronald, who has had reason to
+ know that this phrase reduces Miss Monroe to voiceless rage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The Stuart charm and personal magnetism must have been a powerful factor
+ in all that movement,&rdquo; said Salemina, plunging hastily back into the topic
+ to avert any further recrimination. &ldquo;I suppose we feel it even now, and if
+ I had been alive in 1745 I should probably have made myself ridiculous.
+ &lsquo;Old maiden ladies,&rsquo; I read this morning, &lsquo;were the last leal Jacobites in
+ Edinburgh; spinsterhood in its loneliness remained ever true to Prince
+ Charlie and the vanished dreams of youth.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; continued the Dominie, &ldquo;the story is told of the last of those
+ Jacobite ladies who never failed to close her Prayer-Book and stand erect
+ in silent protest when the prayer for &lsquo;King George III. and the reigning
+ family&rsquo; was read by the congregation.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you remember the prayer of the Reverend Neil M&rsquo;Vicar in St.
+ Cuthbert&rsquo;s?&rdquo; asked Mr. Macdonald. &ldquo;It was in 1745, after the victory at
+ Prestonpans, when a message was sent to the Edinburgh ministers, in the
+ name of &lsquo;Charles, Prince Regent&rsquo; desiring them to open their churches next
+ day as usual. M&rsquo;Vicar preached to a large congregation, many of whom were
+ armed Highlanders, and prayed for George II., and also for Charles Edward,
+ in the following fashion: &lsquo;Bless the king! Thou knowest what king I mean.
+ May the crown sit long upon his head! As for that young man who has come
+ among us to seek an earthly crown, we beseech Thee to take him to Thyself,
+ and give him a crown of glory!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ah, what a pity the Bonnie Prince had not died after his meteor victory
+ at Falkirk!&rdquo; exclaimed Jean Dalziel, when we had finished laughing at Mr.
+ Macdonald&rsquo;s story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Or at Culloden, &lsquo;where, quenched in blood on the Muir of Drummossie, the
+ star of the Stuarts sank forever,&rsquo;&rdquo; quoted the Dominie. &ldquo;There is where
+ his better self died; would that the young Chevalier had died with it! By
+ the way, doctor, we must not sit here eating goodies and sipping tea until
+ the dinner-hour, for these ladies have doubtless much to do for their
+ flitting&rdquo; (a pretty Scots word for &lsquo;moving&rsquo;).
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We are quite ready for our flitting so far as packing is concerned,&rdquo;
+ Salemina assured him. &ldquo;Would that we were as ready in spirit! Miss
+ Hamilton has even written her farewell poem, which I am sure she will read
+ for the asking.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She will read it without that formality,&rdquo; murmured Francesca. &ldquo;She has
+ lived and toiled only for this moment, and the poem is in her pocket.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Delightful!&rdquo; said the doctor flatteringly. &ldquo;Has she favoured you already?
+ Have you heard it, Miss Monroe?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Have we heard it!&rdquo; ejaculated that young person. &ldquo;We have heard nothing
+ else all the morning! What you will take for local colour is nothing but
+ our mental life-blood, which she has mercilessly drawn to stain her
+ verses. We each tried to write a Scottish poem, and as Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s was
+ better, or perhaps I might say less bad, than ours, we encouraged her to
+ develop and finish it. I wanted to do an imitation of Lindsay&rsquo;s
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Adieu, Edinburgh! thou heich triumphant town,
+ Within whose bounds richt blithefull have I been!
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ but it proved too difficult. Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s general idea was that we
+ should write some verses in good plain English. Then we were to take out
+ all the final g&rsquo;s, and indeed the final letters from all the words
+ wherever it was possible, so that full, awful, call, ball, hall, and away
+ should be fu&rsquo;, awfu&rsquo;, ca&rsquo;, ba&rsquo;, ha&rsquo;, an&rsquo; awa&rsquo;. This alone gives great
+ charm and character to a poem; but we were also to change all words ending
+ in ow into aw. This doesn&rsquo;t injure the verse, you see, as blaw and snaw
+ rhyme just as well as blow and snow, beside bringing tears to the common
+ eye with their poetic associations. Similarly, if we had daughter and
+ slaughter, we were to write them dochter and slauchter, substituting in
+ all cases doon, froon, goon, and toon, for down, frown gown, and town.
+ Then we made a list of Scottish idols,&mdash;pet words, national
+ institutions, stock phrases, beloved objects,&mdash;convinced if we could
+ weave them in we should attain &lsquo;atmosphere.&rsquo; Here is the first list; it
+ lengthened speedily: thistle, tartan, haar, haggis, kirk, claymore,
+ parritch, broom, whin, sporran, whaup, plaid, scone, collops, whisky,
+ mutch, cairngorm, oatmeal, brae, kilt, brose, heather. Salemina and I were
+ too devoted to common-sense to succeed in this weaving process, so
+ Penelope triumphed and won the first prize, both for that and also because
+ she brought in a saying given us by Miss Dalziel, about the social
+ classification of all Scotland into &lsquo;the gentlemen of the North, men of
+ the South, people of the West, fowk o&rsquo; Fife, and the Paisley bodies.&rsquo; We
+ think that her success came chiefly from her writing the verses with a
+ Scotch plaid lead-pencil. What effect the absorption of so much red, blue,
+ and green paint will have I cannot fancy, but she ate off&mdash;and up&mdash;all
+ the tartan glaze before finishing the poem; it had a wonderfully
+ stimulating effect, but the end is not yet!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of course there was a chorus of laughter when the young wretch exhibited
+ my battered pencil, bought in Princes Street yesterday, its gay Gordon
+ tints sadly disfigured by the destroying tooth, not of Time, but of a bard
+ in the throes of composition.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We bestowed a consolation prize on Salemina,&rdquo; continued Francesca,
+ &ldquo;because she succeeded in getting hoots, losh, havers, and blethers into
+ one line, but naturally she could not maintain such an ideal standard.
+ Read your verses, Pen, though there is little hope that our friends will
+ enjoy them as much as you do. Whenever Miss Hamilton writes anything of
+ this kind, she emulates her distinguished ancestor Sir William Hamilton,
+ who always fell off his own chair in fits of laughter when he was
+ composing verses.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With this inspiring introduction I read my lines as follows:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ AN AMERICAN GIRL&rsquo;S FAREWELL TO EDINBURGH
+
+ The muse being somewhat under the influence of the Scottish ballad
+
+ I canna thole my ain toun,
+ Sin&rsquo; I hae dwelt i&rsquo; this;
+ To bide in Edinboro&rsquo; reek
+ Wad be the tap o&rsquo; bliss.
+ Yon bonnie plaid aboot me hap,
+ The skirlin&rsquo; pipes gae bring,
+ With thistles fair tie up my hair,
+ While I of Scotia sing.
+
+ The collops an&rsquo; the cairngorms,
+ The haggis an&rsquo; the whin,
+ The &lsquo;Staiblished, Free, an&rsquo; U.P. kirks,
+ The hairt convinced o&rsquo; sin,&mdash;
+ The parritch an&rsquo; the heather-bell,
+ The snawdrap on the shaw,
+ The bit lam&rsquo;s bleatin&rsquo; on the braes,&mdash;
+ How can I leave them a&rsquo;?
+
+ How can I leave the marmalade
+ An&rsquo; bonnets o&rsquo; Dundee?
+ The haar, the haddies, an&rsquo; the brose,
+ The East win&rsquo; blawin&rsquo; free?
+ How can I lay my sporran by,
+ An&rsquo; sit me doun at hame,
+ Wi&rsquo;oot a Hieland philabeg
+ Or hyphenated name?
+
+ I lo&rsquo;e the gentry o&rsquo; the North,
+ The Southern men I lo&rsquo;e,
+ The canty people o&rsquo; the West,
+ The Paisley bodies too.
+ The pawky folk o&rsquo; Fife are dear,&mdash;
+ Sae dear are ane an&rsquo; a&rsquo;,
+ That e&rsquo;en to think that we maun pairt
+ Maist braks my hairt in twa.
+
+ So fetch me tartans, heather, scones,
+ An&rsquo; dye my tresses red;
+ I&rsquo;d deck me like th&rsquo; unconquer&rsquo;d Scots,
+ Wha hae wi&rsquo; Wallace bled.
+ Then bind my claymore to my side,
+ My kilt an&rsquo; mutch gae bring;
+ While Scottish lays soun&rsquo; i&rsquo; my lugs
+ M&rsquo;Kinley&rsquo;s no my king,&mdash;
+
+ For Charlie, bonnie Stuart Prince,
+ Has turned me Jacobite;
+ I&rsquo;d wear displayed the white cockade.
+ An&rsquo; (whiles) for him I&rsquo;ll fight!
+ An&rsquo; (whiles) I&rsquo;d fight for a&rsquo; that&rsquo;s Scotch,
+ Save whusky an&rsquo; oatmeal,
+ For wi&rsquo; their ballads i&rsquo; my bluid,
+ Nae Scot could be mair leal!
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I fancied that I had pitched my verses in so high a key that no one could
+ mistake their burlesque intention. What was my confusion, however, to have
+ one of the company remark when I finished, &lsquo;Extremely pretty; but a mutch,
+ you know, is an article of WOMAN&rsquo;S apparel, and would never be worn with a
+ kilt!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Macdonald flung himself gallantly into the breach. He is such a dear
+ fellow! So quick, so discriminating, so warm-hearted!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t pick flaws in Miss Hamilton&rsquo;s finest line! That picture of a fair
+ American, clad in a kilt and mutch, decked in heather and scones, and
+ brandishing a claymore, will live for ever in my memory. Don&rsquo;t clip the
+ wings of her imagination! You will be telling her soon that one doesn&rsquo;t
+ tie one&rsquo;s hair with thistles, nor couple collops with cairngorms.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Somebody sent Francesca a great bunch of yellow broom, late that
+ afternoon. There was no name in the box, she said, but at night she wore
+ the odorous tips in the bosom of her black dinner-gown, and standing erect
+ in her dark hair like golden aigrettes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When she came into my room to say good night, she laid the pretty frock in
+ one of my trunks, which was to be filled with garments of fashionable
+ society and left behind in Edinburgh. The next moment I chanced to look on
+ the floor, and discovered a little card, a bent card with two lines
+ written on it:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Better lo&rsquo;ed ye canna be,
+ Will ye no&rsquo; come back again?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We have received many invitations in that handwriting. I know it well, and
+ so does Francesca, though it is blurred; and the reason for this,
+ according to my way of thinking, is that it has been lying next the moist
+ stems of flowers, and unless I do her wrong, very near to somebody&rsquo;s warm
+ heart as well.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I will not betray her to Salemina, even to gain a victory over that blind
+ and deaf but much beloved woman. How could I, with my heart beating high
+ at the thought of seeing my ain dear laddie before many days?
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ Oh, love, love, lassie,
+ Love is like a dizziness:
+ It winna lat a puir body
+ Gang aboot his business.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XIV. The wee theekit hoosie in the loaning.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Now she&rsquo;s cast aff her bonny shoon
+ Made o&rsquo; gilded leather,
+ And she&rsquo;s put on her Hieland brogues
+ To skip amang the heather.
+ And she&rsquo;s cast aff her bonny goon
+ Made o&rsquo; the silk and satin,
+ And she&rsquo;s put on a tartan plaid
+ To row amang the braken.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Lizzie Baillie.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We are in the East Neuk o&rsquo; Fife; we are in Pettybaw; we are neither
+ boarders nor lodgers; we are residents, inhabitants, householders, and we
+ live (live, mind you) in a wee theekit hoosie in the old loaning. Words
+ fail to tell you how absolutely Scotch we are and how blissfully happy. It
+ is a happiness, I assure you, achieved through great tribulation. Salemina
+ and I travelled many miles in railway trains, and many in various other
+ sorts of wheeled vehicles, while the ideal ever beckoned us onward. I was
+ determined to find a romantic lodging, Salemina a comfortable one, and
+ this special combination of virtues is next to impossible, as every one
+ knows. Linghurst was too much of a town; Bonnie Craig had no respectable
+ inn; Winnybrae was struggling to be a watering-place; Broomlea had no
+ golf-course within ten miles, and we intended to go back to our native
+ land and win silver goblets in mixed foursomes; the &lsquo;new toun o&rsquo; Fairlock&rsquo;
+ (which looked centuries old) was delightful, but we could not find
+ apartments there; Pinkie Leith was nice, but they were tearing up the
+ &lsquo;fore street&rsquo; and laying drain-pipes in it. Strathdee had been highly
+ recommended, but it rained when we were in Strathdee, and nobody can
+ deliberately settle in a place where it rains during the process of
+ deliberation. No train left this moist and dripping hamlet for three
+ hours, so we took a covered trap and drove onward in melancholy mood.
+ Suddenly the clouds lifted and the rain ceased; the driver thought we
+ should be having settled weather now, and put back the top of the
+ carriage, saying meanwhile that it was a verra dry simmer this year, and
+ that the crops sairly needed shoo&rsquo;rs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course, if there is any district in Scotland where for any reason
+ droughts are possible, that is where we wish to settle,&rdquo; I whispered to
+ Salemina; &ldquo;though, so far as I can see, the Strathdee crops are up to
+ their knees in mud. Here is another wee village. What is this place,
+ driver?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Pettybaw, mam; a fine toun!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Will there be apartments to let there?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Susanna Crum&rsquo;s father! How curious that he should live here!&rdquo; I murmured;
+ and at this moment the sun came out, and shone full, or at least almost
+ full, on our future home.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Pettybaw! Petit bois, I suppose,&rdquo; said Salemina; &ldquo;and there, to be sure,
+ it is,&mdash;the &lsquo;little wood&rsquo; yonder.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We drove to the Pettybaw Inn and Posting Establishment, and, alighting,
+ dismissed the driver. We had still three good hours of daylight, although
+ it was five o&rsquo;clock, and we refreshed ourselves with a delicious cup of
+ tea before looking for lodgings. We consulted the greengrocer, the baker,
+ and the flesher, about furnished apartments, and started on our quest, not
+ regarding the little posting establishment as a possibility. Apartments we
+ found to be very scarce, and in one or two places that were quite suitable
+ the landlady refused to do any cooking. We wandered from house to house,
+ the sun shining brighter and brighter, and Pettybaw looking lovelier and
+ lovelier; and as we were refused shelter again and again, we grew more and
+ more enamoured, as is the manner of human kind. The blue sea sparkled, and
+ Pettybaw Sands gleamed white a mile or two in the distance, the pretty
+ stone church raised its curved spire from the green trees, the manse next
+ door was hidden in vines, the sheep lay close to the grey stone walls and
+ the young lambs nestled beside them, while the song of the burn, tinkling
+ merrily down the glade on the edge of which we stood, and the cawing of
+ the rooks in the little wood, were the only sounds to be heard.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina, under the influence of this sylvan solitude, nobly declared that
+ she could and would do without a set bath-tub, and proposed building a
+ cabin and living near to nature&rsquo;s heart.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I think, on the whole, we should be more comfortable living near to the
+ innkeeper&rsquo;s heart,&rdquo; I answered. &ldquo;Let us go back there and pass the night,
+ trying thus the bed and breakfast, with a view to seeing what they are
+ like&mdash;although they did say in Edinburgh that nobody thinks of living
+ in these wayside hostelries.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Back we went, accordingly, and after ordering dinner came out and strolled
+ idly up the main street. A small sign in the draper&rsquo;s window, heretofore
+ overlooked, caught our eye. &lsquo;House and Garden To Let Inquire Within.&rsquo;
+ Inquiring within with all possible speed, we found the draper selling
+ winceys, the draper&rsquo;s assistant tidying the ribbon-box, the draper&rsquo;s wife
+ sewing in one corner, and the draper&rsquo;s baby playing on the clean floor. We
+ were impressed favourably, and entered into negotiations without delay.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The house will be in the loaning; do you mind, ma&rsquo;am?&rdquo; asked the draper.
+ (We have long since discovered that this use of the verb is a bequest from
+ the Gaelic, in which there is no present tense. Man never is, but always
+ to be blessed, in that language, which in this particular is not unlike
+ old-fashioned Calvinism.)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We went out of the back door and down the green loaning, until we came to
+ the wee stone cottage in which the draper himself lives most of the year,
+ retiring for the warmer months to the back of his shop, and eking out a
+ comfortable income by renting his hearth-stone to the summer visitor.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The thatched roof on the wing that formed the kitchen attracted my
+ artist&rsquo;s eye, and we went in to examine the interior, which we found
+ surprisingly attractive. There was a tiny sitting-room, with a fireplace
+ and a microscopic piano; a dining-room adorned with portraits of relatives
+ who looked nervous when they met my eye, for they knew that they would be
+ turned face to the wall on the morrow; four bedrooms, a kitchen, and a
+ back garden so filled with vegetables and flowers that we exclaimed with
+ astonishment and admiration.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But we cannot keep house in Scotland,&rdquo; objected Salemina. &ldquo;Think of the
+ care! And what about the servants?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why not eat at the inn?&rdquo; I suggested. &ldquo;Think of living in a real loaning,
+ Salemina! Look at the stone floor in the kitchen, and the adorable stuffy
+ box-bed in the wall! Look at the bust of Sir Walter in the hall, and the
+ chromo of Melrose Abbey by moonlight! Look at the lintel over the front
+ door, with a ship, moon, stars, and 1602 carved in the stone! What is food
+ to all this?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina agreed that it was hardly worth considering; and in truth so many
+ landladies had refused to receive her as a tenant that day that her
+ spirits were rather low, and she was uncommonly flexible.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is the lintel and the back garden that rents the hoose,&rdquo; remarked the
+ draper complacently in broad Scotch that I cannot reproduce. He is a
+ house-agent as well as a draper, and went on to tell us that when he had a
+ cottage he could rent in no other way he planted plenty of creepers in
+ front of it. &ldquo;The baker&rsquo;s hoose is no sae bonnie,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;and the linen
+ and cutlery verra scanty, but there is a yellow laburnum growin&rsquo; by the
+ door: the leddies see that, and forget to ask aboot the linen. It depends
+ a good bit on the weather, too; it is easy to let a hoose when the sun
+ shines upon it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We hardly dare undertake regular housekeeping,&rdquo; I said; &ldquo;do your tenants
+ ever take meals at the inn?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cudna say, mam.&rdquo; (Dear, dear, the Crums are a large family!)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If we did that, we should still need a servant to keep the house tidy,&rdquo;
+ said Salemina, as we walked away. &ldquo;Perhaps housemaids are to be had,
+ though not nearer than Edinburgh, I fancy.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This gave me an idea, and I slipped over to the post-office while Salemina
+ was preparing for dinner, and despatched a telegram to Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop at
+ Breadalbane Terrace, asking her if she could send a reliable general
+ servant to us, capable of cooking simple breakfasts and caring for a
+ house.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We had scarcely finished our Scotch broth, fried haddies, mutton-chops,
+ and rhubarb tart when I received an answer from Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop to the
+ effect that her sister&rsquo;s husband&rsquo;s niece, Jane Grieve, could join us on
+ the morrow if we desired. The relationship was an interesting fact, though
+ we scarcely thought the information worth the additional pennies we paid
+ for it in the telegram; however, Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s comfortable assurance,
+ together with the quality of the rhubarb tart and mutton-chops, brought us
+ to a decision. Before going to sleep we rented the draper&rsquo;s house, named
+ it Bide-a-Wee Cottage, engaged daily luncheons and dinners for three
+ persons at the Pettybaw Inn and Posting Establishment, telegraphed to
+ Edinburgh for Jane Grieve, to Callander for Francesca, and despatched a
+ letter to Paris for Mr. Beresford, telling him we had taken a &lsquo;wee theekit
+ hoosie,&rsquo; and that the &lsquo;yett was ajee&rsquo; whenever he chose to come.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Possibly it would have been wiser not send for them until we were
+ settled,&rdquo; I said reflectively. &ldquo;Jane Grieve may not prove a suitable
+ person.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The name somehow sounds too young and inexperienced,&rdquo; observed Salemina,
+ &ldquo;and what association have I with the phrase &lsquo;sister&rsquo;s husband&rsquo;s niece&rsquo;?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You have heard me quote Lewis Carroll&rsquo;s verse, perhaps:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;He thought he saw a buffalo
+ Upon the chimney-piece;
+ He looked again and found it was
+ His sister&rsquo;s husband&rsquo;s niece:
+ &ldquo;Unless you leave the house,&rdquo; he said,
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;ll send for the police!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The only thing that troubles me,&rdquo; I went on, &ldquo;is the question of Willie
+ Beresford&rsquo;s place of residence. He expects to be somewhere within easy
+ walking or cycling distance,&mdash;four or five miles at most.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He won&rsquo;t be desolate even if he doesn&rsquo;t have a thatched roof, a pansy
+ garden, and a blossoming shrub,&rdquo; said Salemina sleepily, for our business
+ arrangements and discussions had lasted well into the evening. &ldquo;What he
+ will want is a lodging where he can have frequent sight and speech of you.
+ How I dread him! How I resent his sharing of you with us! I don&rsquo;t know why
+ I use the word &lsquo;sharing,&rsquo; forsooth! There is nothing half so fair and just
+ in his majesty&rsquo;s greedy mind. Well, it&rsquo;s the way of the world; only it is
+ odd, with the universe of women to choose from, that he must needs take
+ you. Strathdee seems the most desirable place for him, if he has a
+ macintosh and rubber boots. Inchcaldy is another town near here that we
+ didn&rsquo;t see at all&mdash;that might do; the draper&rsquo;s wife says that we can
+ send fine linen to the laundry there.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Inchcaldy? Oh yes, I think we heard of it in Edinburgh&mdash;at least I
+ have some association with the name: it has a fine golf-course, I believe,
+ and very likely we ought to have looked at it, although for my part I have
+ no regrets. Nothing can equal Pettybaw; and I am so pleased to be a
+ Scottish householder! Aren&rsquo;t we just like Bessie Bell and Mary Gray?
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;They were twa bonnie lassies;
+ They biggit a bower on yon burnbrae,
+ An&rsquo; theekit it ower wi&rsquo; rashes.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Think of our stone-floored kitchen, Salemina! Think of the real box-bed in
+ the wall for little Jane Grieve! She will have red-gold hair, blue eyes,
+ and a pink cotton gown. Think of our own cat! Think how Francesca will
+ admire the 1602 lintel! Think of our back garden, with our own &lsquo;neeps&rsquo; and
+ vegetable marrows growing in it! Think how they will envy us at home when
+ they learn that we have settled down into Scottish yeowomen!
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;It&rsquo;s oh, for a patch of land!
+ It&rsquo;s oh, for a patch of land!
+ Of all the blessings tongue can name,
+ There&rsquo;s nane like a patch of land!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Think of Willie coming to step on the floor and look at the bed and stroke
+ the cat and covet the lintel and walk in the garden and weed the turnips
+ and pluck the marrows that grow by our ain wee theekit hoosie!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope, you appear slightly intoxicated! Do close the window and come
+ to bed.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am intoxicated with the caller air of Pettybaw,&rdquo; I rejoined, leaning on
+ the window-sill and looking at the stars, while I thought: &ldquo;Edinburgh was
+ beautiful; it is the most beautiful grey city in the world; it lacked one
+ thing only to make it perfect, and Pettybaw will have that before many
+ moons:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Oh, Willie&rsquo;s rare an&rsquo; Willie&rsquo;s fair
+ An&rsquo; Willie&rsquo;s wondrous bonny;
+ An&rsquo; Willie&rsquo;s hecht to marry me
+ Gin e&rsquo;er he marries ony.
+
+ &lsquo;O gentle wind that bloweth south,
+ From where my love repaireth,
+ Convey a word from his dear mouth,
+ An&rsquo; tell me how he fareth.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XV. Jane Grieve and her grievances.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Gae tak&rsquo; awa&rsquo; the china plates,
+ Gae tak&rsquo; them far frae me;
+ And bring to me a wooden dish,
+ It&rsquo;s that I&rsquo;m best used wi&rsquo;.
+ And tak&rsquo; awa&rsquo; thae siller spoons,
+ The like I ne&rsquo;er did see,
+ And bring to me the horn cutties,
+ They&rsquo;re good eneugh for me.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Earl Richard&rsquo;s Wedding.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The next day was one of the most cheerful and one of the most fatiguing
+ that I ever spent. Salemina and I moved every article of furniture in our
+ wee theekit hoosie from the place where it originally stood to another and
+ a better place: arguing, of course, over the precise spot it should
+ occupy, which was generally upstairs if the thing were already down, or
+ downstairs if it were already up. We hid all the more hideous ornaments of
+ the draper&rsquo;s wife, and folded away her most objectionable tidies and
+ table-covers, replacing them with our own pretty draperies. There were
+ only two pictures in the sitting-room, and as an artist I would not have
+ parted with them for worlds. The first was The Life of a Fireman, which
+ could only remind one of the explosion of a mammoth tomato, and the other
+ was The Spirit of Poetry calling Burns from the Plough. Burns wore white
+ knee-breeches, military boots, a splendid waistcoat with lace ruffles, and
+ carried a cocked hat. To have been so dressed he must have known the
+ Spirit was intending to come. The plough-horse was a magnificent Arabian,
+ whose tail swept the freshly furrowed earth, while the Spirit of Poetry
+ was issuing from a practicable wigwam on the left, and was a lady of such
+ ample dimensions that no poet would have dared say &lsquo;no&rsquo; when she called
+ him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The dining-room was blighted by framed photographs of the draper&rsquo;s
+ relations and the draper&rsquo;s wife&rsquo;s relations; all uniformly ugly. It seems
+ strange that married couples having the least beauty to bequeath to their
+ offspring should persist in having the largest families. These ladies and
+ gentlemen were too numerous to remove, so we obscured them with trailing
+ branches; reflecting that we only breakfasted in the room, and the morning
+ meal is easily digested when one lives in the open air. We arranged
+ flowers everywhere, and bought potted plants at a little nursery hard by.
+ We apportioned the bedrooms, giving Francesca the hardest bed,&mdash;as
+ she is the youngest, and wasn&rsquo;t here to choose,&mdash;me the next hardest,
+ and Salemina the best; Francesca the largest looking-glass and wardrobe,
+ me the best view, and Salemina the largest bath. We bought housekeeping
+ stores, distributing our patronage equally between the two grocers; we
+ purchased aprons and dust-cloths from the rival drapers, engaged bread and
+ rolls from the baker, milk and cream from the plumber (who keeps three
+ cows), interviewed the flesher about chops; in fact, no young couple
+ facing love in a cottage ever had a busier or happier time than we; and at
+ sundown, when Francesca arrived, we were in the pink of order, standing
+ under our own lintel, ready to welcome her to Pettybaw. As to being
+ strangers in a strange land, we had a bowing acquaintance with everybody
+ on the main street of the tiny village, and were on terms of considerable
+ intimacy with half a dozen families, including dogs and babies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca was delighted with everything, from the station (Pettybaw Sands,
+ two miles away) to Jane Grieve&rsquo;s name, which she thought as perfect, in
+ its way, as Susanna Crum&rsquo;s. She had purchased a &lsquo;tirling-pin,&rsquo; that
+ old-time precursor of knockers and bells, at an antique shop in Oban, and
+ we fastened it on the front door at once, taking turns at risping it until
+ our own nerves were shattered, and the draper&rsquo;s wife ran down the loaning
+ to see if we were in need of anything. The twisted bar of iron stands out
+ from the door and the ring is drawn up and down over a series of nicks,
+ making a rasping noise. The lovers and ghaists in the old ballads always
+ &lsquo;tirled at the pin,&rsquo; you remember; that is, touched it gently.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca brought us letters from Edinburgh, and what was my joy, in
+ opening Willie&rsquo;s, to learn that he begged us to find a place in Fifeshire,
+ and as near St. Rules or Strathdee as convenient; for in that case he
+ could accept an invitation he had just received to visit his friend Robin
+ Anstruther, at Rowardennan Castle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is not the visit at the castle I wish so much, you may be sure,&rdquo; he
+ wrote, &ldquo;as the fact that Lady Ardmore will make everything pleasant for
+ you. You will like my friend Robin Anstruther, who is Lady Ardmore&rsquo;s
+ youngest brother, and who is going to her to be nursed and coddled after a
+ baddish accident in the hunting-field. He is very sweet-tempered, and will
+ get on well with Francesca&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t see the connection,&rdquo; rudely interrupted that spirited young
+ person.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I suppose she has more room on her list in the country than she had in
+ Edinburgh; but if my remembrance serves me, she always enrolls a goodly
+ number of victims, whether she has any immediate use for them or not.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Mr. Beresford&rsquo;s manners have not been improved by his residence in
+ Paris,&rdquo; observed Francesca, with resentment in her tone and delight in her
+ eye.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Mr. Beresford&rsquo;s manners are always perfect,&rdquo; said Salemina loyally, &ldquo;and
+ I have no doubt that this visit to Lady Ardmore will be extremely pleasant
+ for him, though very embarrassing to us. If we are thrown into forced
+ intimacy with a castle&rdquo; (Salemina spoke of it as if it had fangs and a
+ lashing tail), &ldquo;what shall we do in this draper&rsquo;s hut?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Salemina!&rdquo; I expostulated, &ldquo;bears will devour you as they did the
+ ungrateful child in the fairy-tale. I wonder at your daring to use the
+ word &lsquo;hut&rsquo; in connection with our wee theekit hoosie!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;They will never understand that we are doing all this for the novelty of
+ it,&rdquo; she objected. &ldquo;The Scottish nobility and gentry probably never think
+ of renting a house for a joke. Imagine Lord and Lady Ardmore, the young
+ Ardmores, Robin Anstruther, and Willie Beresford calling upon us in this
+ sitting-room! We ourselves would have to sit in the hall and talk in
+ through the doorway.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;All will be well,&rdquo; Francesca assured her soothingly. &ldquo;We shall be
+ pardoned much because we are Americans, and will not be expected to know
+ any better. Besides, the gifted Miss Hamilton is an artist, and that
+ covers a multitude of sins against conventionality. When the castle people
+ &lsquo;tirl at the pin,&rsquo; I will appear as the maid, if you like, following your
+ example at Mrs Bobby&rsquo;s cottage in Belvern, Pen.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And it isn&rsquo;t as if there were many houses to choose from, Salemina, nor
+ as if Bide-a-Wee cottage were cheap,&rdquo; I continued. &ldquo;Think of the rent we
+ pay and keep your head high. Remember that the draper&rsquo;s wife says there is
+ nothing half so comfortable in Inchcaldy, although that is twice as large
+ a town.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;INCHCALDY!&rdquo; ejaculated Francesca, sitting down heavily upon the sofa and
+ staring at me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Inchcaldy, my dear,&mdash;spelled CALDY, but pronounced CAWDY; the town
+ where you are to take your nonsensical little fripperies to be laundered.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Where is Inchcaldy? How far away?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;About five miles, I believe, but a lovely road.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Well,&rdquo; she exclaimed bitterly, &ldquo;of course Scotland is a small,
+ insignificant country; but, tiny as it is, it presents some liberty of
+ choice, and why you need have pitched upon Pettybaw, and brought me here,
+ when it is only five miles from Inchcaldy, and a lovely road besides, is
+ more than I can understand!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;In what way has Inchcaldy been so unhappy as to offend you?&rdquo; I asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It has not offended me, save that it chances to be Ronald Macdonald&rsquo;s
+ parish&mdash;that is all.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ronald Macdonald&rsquo;s parish!&rdquo; we repeated automatically.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Certainly&mdash;you must have heard him mention Inchcaldy; and how queer
+ he will think it that I have come to Pettybaw, under all the
+ circumstances!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We do not know &lsquo;all the circumstances,&rsquo;&rdquo; quoted Salemina somewhat
+ haughtily; &ldquo;and you must remember, my dear, that our opportunities for
+ speech with Mr. Macdonald have been very rare when you were present. For
+ my part, I was always in such a tremor of anxiety during his visits lest
+ one or both of you should descend to blows that I remember no details of
+ his conversation. Besides, we did not choose Pettybaw; we discovered it by
+ chance as we were driving from Strathdee to St. Rules. How were we to know
+ that it was near this fatal Inchcaldy? If you think it best, we will hold
+ no communication with the place, and Mr. Macdonald need never know you are
+ here.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I thought Francesca looked rather startled at this proposition. At all
+ events she said hastily, &ldquo;Oh, well, let it go; we could not avoid each
+ other long, anyway, although it is very awkward, of course; you see, we
+ did not part friends.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I thought I had never seen you on more cordial terms,&rdquo; remarked Salemina.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But you weren&rsquo;t there,&rdquo; answered Francesca unguardedly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Weren&rsquo;t where?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Weren&rsquo;t there.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Where?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;At the station.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What station?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The station in Edinburgh from which I started for the Highlands.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You never said that he came to see you off.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The matter was too unimportant for notice; and the more I think of his
+ being here, the less I mind it after all; and so, dull care, begone! When
+ I first meet him on the sands or in the loaning, I shall say, &lsquo;Dear me, is
+ it Mr. Macdonald! What brought you to our quiet hamlet?&rsquo; (I shall put the
+ responsibility on him, you know.) &lsquo;That is the worst of these small
+ countries,&mdash;fowk are aye i&rsquo; the gait! When we part for ever in
+ America, we are able to stay parted, if we wish.&rsquo; Then he will say, &lsquo;Quite
+ so, quite so; but I suppose even you, Miss Monroe, will allow that a
+ minister may not move his church to please a lady.&rsquo; &lsquo;Certainly not,&rsquo; I
+ shall reply, &lsquo;especially when it is Estaiblished!&rsquo; Then he will laugh, and
+ we shall be better friends for a few moments; and then I shall tell him my
+ latest story about the Scotchman who prayed, &lsquo;Lord, I do not ask that Thou
+ shouldst give me wealth; only show me where it is, and I will attend to
+ the rest.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina moaned at the delightful prospect opening before us, while I went
+ to the piano and carolled impersonally&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;Oh, wherefore did I cross the Forth,
+ And leave my love behind me?
+ Why did I venture to the north
+ With one that did not mind me?
+ I&rsquo;m sure I&rsquo;ve seen a better limb
+ And twenty better faces;
+ But still my mind it runs on him
+ When I am at the races!&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Francesca left the room at this, and closed the door behind her with such
+ energy that the bust of Sir Walter rocked on the hall shelf. Running
+ upstairs she locked herself in her bedroom, and came down again only to
+ help us receive Jane Grieve, who arrived at eight o&rsquo;clock.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In times of joy Salemina, Francesca, and I occasionally have our trifling
+ differences of opinion, but in hours of affliction we are as one flesh. An
+ all-wise Providence sent us Jane Grieve for fear that we should be too
+ happy in Pettybaw. Plans made in heaven for the discipline of sinful human
+ flesh are always successful, and this was no exception.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We had sent a &lsquo;machine&rsquo; from the inn to meet her, and when it drew up at
+ the door we went forward to greet the rosy little Jane of our fancy. An
+ aged person, wearing a rusty black bonnet and shawl, and carrying what
+ appeared to be a tin cake-box and a baby&rsquo;s bath-tub, descended
+ rheumatically from the vehicle and announced herself as Miss Grieve. She
+ was too old to call by her Christian name, too sensitive to call by her
+ surname, so Miss Grieve she remained, as announced, to the end of the
+ chapter, and our rosy little Jane died before she was actually born. The
+ man took her grotesque luggage into the kitchen, and Salemina escorted her
+ thither, while Francesca and I fell into each other&rsquo;s arms and laughed
+ hysterically.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nobody need tell me that she is Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s sister&rsquo;s husband&rsquo;s
+ niece,&rdquo; she whispered, &ldquo;although she may possibly be somebody&rsquo;s
+ grand-aunt. Doesn&rsquo;t she remind you of Mrs. Gummidge?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina returned in a quarter of an hour, and sank dejectedly on the
+ sofa.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Run over to the inn, Francesca&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;and order bacon and eggs at
+ eight-thirty to-morrow morning. Miss Grieve thinks we had better not
+ breakfast at home until she becomes accustomed to the surroundings.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Shall we allow her to become accustomed to them?&rdquo; I questioned.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She came up from Glasgow to Edinburgh for the day, and went to see Mrs.
+ M&rsquo;Collop just as our telegram arrived. She was living with an &lsquo;extremely
+ nice family&rsquo; in Glasgow, and only broke her engagement in order to try
+ Fifeshire air for the summer; so she will remain with us as long as she is
+ benefited by the climate.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Can&rsquo;t you pay her for a month and send her away?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;How can we? She is Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop&rsquo;s sister&rsquo;s husband&rsquo;s niece, and we
+ intend returning to Mrs. M&rsquo;Collop. She has a nice ladylike appearance, but
+ when she takes her bonnet off she looks seventy years old.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She ought always to keep it off, then,&rdquo; returned Francesca, &ldquo;for she
+ looked eighty with it on. We shall have to soothe her last moments, of
+ course, and pay her funeral expenses. Did you offer her a cup of tea and
+ show her the box-bed?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes; she said she was muckle obleeged to me, but the coals were so poor
+ and hard she couldna batter them up to start a fire the nicht, and she
+ would try the box-bed to see if she could sleep in it. I am glad to
+ remember that it was you who telegraphed for her, Penelope.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Let there be no recriminations,&rdquo; I responded; &ldquo;let us stand shoulder to
+ shoulder in this calamity,&mdash;isn&rsquo;t there a story called Calamity Jane?
+ We might live at the inn, and give her the cottage for a summer residence,
+ but I utterly refuse to be parted from our cat and the 1602 lintel.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After I have once described Miss Grieve I shall not suffer her to begloom
+ these pages as she did our young lives. She is so exactly like her kind in
+ America she cannot be looked upon as a national type. Everywhere we go we
+ see fresh, fair-haired, sonsie lasses; why should we have been visited by
+ this affliction, we who have no courage in a foreign land to rid ourselves
+ of it?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She appears at the door of the kitchen with some complaint, and stands
+ there talking to herself in a depressing murmur until she arrives at the
+ next grievance. Whenever we hear this, which is whenever we are in the
+ sitting-room, we amuse ourselves by chanting lines of melancholy poetry
+ which correspond to the sentiments she seems to be uttering. It is the
+ only way the infliction can be endured, for the sitting-room is so small
+ that we cannot keep the door closed habitually. The effect of this plan is
+ something like the following:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;The range has sic a bad draft I canna mak&rsquo; the fire draw!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;But I&rsquo;m ower auld for the tears to start,
+ An&rsquo; sae the sighs maun blaw!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;The clock i&rsquo; the hall doesna strike. I have to get oot o&rsquo; my bed to
+ see the time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;The broken hairt it kens
+ Nae second spring again!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;There&rsquo;s no&rsquo; eneuch jugs i&rsquo; the hoose.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;I&rsquo;m downright dizzy wi&rsquo; the thought&mdash;
+ In troth I&rsquo;m like to greet!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;The sink drain isna recht.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;An&rsquo; it&rsquo;s oh! to win awa&rsquo;, awa&rsquo;,
+ An&rsquo; it&rsquo;s oh! to win awa&rsquo;!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;I canna thole a box-bed!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;Ay waukin O
+ Waukin O an&rsquo; weary.
+ Sleep I can get nane,
+ Ay waukin O!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s fair insultin&rsquo; to rent a hoose wi&rsquo; so few convenience.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;An&rsquo; I&rsquo;m ower auld to fish ony mair,
+ An&rsquo; I hinna the chance to droon.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;The work is fair sickenin&rsquo; i&rsquo; this hoose, an&rsquo; a&rsquo; for ane puir body
+ to do by her lane.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;How can ye chant, ye little birds,
+ An&rsquo; I sae weary, fu&rsquo; o&rsquo; care?&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;Ah, but that was a fine family I lived wi&rsquo; in Glasgy; an&rsquo; it&rsquo;s a
+ wearifu&rsquo; day&rsquo;s work I&rsquo;ve had the day.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;Oh why was I spared to cry, Wae&rsquo;s me!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ She. &ldquo;Why dinna they leave floo&rsquo;rs i&rsquo; the garden makin&rsquo; a mess i&rsquo; the
+ hoose wi&rsquo; &lsquo;em? It&rsquo;s not for the knowin&rsquo; what they will be after next!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ We. &lsquo;Oh, waly waly up the bank,
+ And waly waly doon the brae!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Miss Grieve&rsquo;s plaints never grow less, though we are sometimes at a loss
+ for appropriate quotations to match them. The poetic interpolations are
+ introduced merely to show the general spirit of her conversation. They
+ take the place of her sighs, which are by their nature unprintable. Many
+ times each day she is wont to sink into one low chair, and, extending her
+ feet in another, close her eyes and murmur undistinguishable plaints which
+ come to us in a kind of rhythmic way. She has such a shaking right hand we
+ have been obliged to give up coffee and have tea, as the former beverage
+ became too unsettled on its journey from the kitchen to the
+ breakfast-table. She says she kens she is a guid cook, though salf-praise
+ is sma&rsquo; racommendation (sma&rsquo; as it is she will get nae ither!); but we
+ have little opportunity to test her skill, as she prepares only our
+ breakfasts of eggs and porridge. Visions of home-made goodies had danced
+ before our eyes, but as the hall clock doesna strike she is unable to rise
+ at any exact hour, and as the range draft is bad, and the coals too hard
+ to batter up wi&rsquo; a hatchet, we naturally have to content ourselves with
+ the baker&rsquo;s loaf.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And this is a truthful portrait of &lsquo;Calamity Jane,&rsquo; our one Pettybaw
+ grievance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XVI. The path that led to Crummylowe.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Gae farer up the burn to Habbie&rsquo;s Howe,
+ Where a&rsquo; the sweets o&rsquo; spring an&rsquo; simmer grow:
+ Between twa birks, out o&rsquo;er a little lin,
+ The water fa&rsquo;s an&rsquo; mak&rsquo;s a singan din;
+ A pool breast-deep, beneath as clear as glass,
+ Kisses, wi&rsquo; easy whirls, the bord&rsquo;ring grass.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Gentle Shepherd.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ That is what Peggy says to Jenny in Allan Ramsay&rsquo;s poem, and if you
+ substitute &lsquo;Crummylowe&rsquo; for &lsquo;Habbie&rsquo;s Howe&rsquo; in the first line, you will
+ have a lovely picture of the farm-steadin&rsquo;.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ You come to it by turning the corner from the inn, first passing the
+ cottage where the lady wishes to rent two rooms for fifteen shillings a
+ week, but will not give much attendance, as she is slightly asthmatic, and
+ the house is always as clean as it is this minute, and the view from the
+ window looking out on Pettybaw Bay canna be surpassed at ony money. Then
+ comes the little house where Will&rsquo;am Beattie&rsquo;s sister Mary died in May,
+ and there wasna a bonnier woman in Fife. Next is the cottage with the
+ pansy-garden, where the lady in the widow&rsquo;s cap takes five-o&rsquo;clock tea in
+ the bay-window, and a snug little supper at eight. She has for the first,
+ scones and marmalade, and her tea is in a small black teapot under a red
+ cosy with a white muslin cover drawn over it. At eight she has more tea,
+ and generally a kippered herring, or a bit of cold mutton left from the
+ noon dinner. We note the changes in her bill of fare as we pass hastily
+ by, and feel admitted quite into the family secrets. Beyond this
+ bay-window, which is so redolent of simple peace and comfort that we long
+ to go in and sit down, is the cottage with the double white tulips, the
+ cottage with the collie on the front steps, the doctor&rsquo;s house with the
+ yellow laburnum tree, and then the house where the Disagreeable Woman
+ lives. She has a lovely baby, which, to begin with, is somewhat
+ remarkable, as disagreeable women rarely have babies; or else, having had
+ them, rapidly lose their disagreeableness&mdash;so rapidly that one has
+ not time to notice it. The Disagreeable Woman&rsquo;s house is at the end of the
+ row, and across the road is a wicket-gate leading&mdash;Where did it lead?&mdash;that
+ was the very point. Along the left, as you lean wistfully over the gate,
+ there runs a stone wall topped by a green hedge; and on the right, first
+ furrows of pale fawn, then below, furrows of deeper brown, and mulberry,
+ and red ploughed earth stretching down to waving fields of green, and
+ thence to the sea, grey, misty, opalescent, melting into the pearly white
+ clouds, so that one cannot tell where sea ends and sky begins.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is a path between the green hedge and the ploughed field, and it
+ leads seductively to the farm-steadin&rsquo;; or we felt that it might thus
+ lead, if we dared unlatch the wicket gate. Seeing no sign &lsquo;Private Way,&rsquo;
+ &lsquo;Trespassers Not Allowed,&rsquo; or other printed defiance to the stranger, we
+ were considering the opening of the gate, when we observed two female
+ figures coming toward us along the path, and paused until they should come
+ through. It was the Disagreeable Woman (although we knew it not) and an
+ elderly friend. We accosted the friend, feeling instinctively that she was
+ framed of softer stuff, and asked her if the path were a private one. It
+ was a question that had never met her ear before, and she was too dull or
+ too discreet to deal with it on the instant. To our amazement, she did not
+ even manage to falter, &lsquo;I couldna say.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Is the path private?&rdquo; I repeated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is certainly the idea to keep it a little private,&rdquo; said the
+ Disagreeable Woman, coming into the conversation without being addressed.
+ &ldquo;Where do you wish to go?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nowhere in particular. The walk looks so inviting we should like to see
+ the end.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It goes only to the Farm, and you can reach that by the highroad; it is
+ only a half-mile further. Do you wish to call at the Farm?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, oh no; the path is so very pretty that&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, I see; well, I should call it rather private.&rdquo; And with this she
+ departed, leaving us to stand on the outskirts of paradise, while she went
+ into her house and stared at us from the window as she played with the
+ lovely undeserved baby. But that was not the end of the matter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We found ourselves there next day, Francesca and I&mdash;Salemina was too
+ proud&mdash;drawn by an insatiable longing to view the beloved and
+ forbidden scene. We did not dare to glance at the Disagreeable Woman&rsquo;s
+ windows, lest our courage should ooze away, so we opened the gate and
+ stole through into the rather private path.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was a most lovely path; even if it had not been in a sense prohibited,
+ it would still have been lovely, simply on its own merits. There were
+ little gaps in the hedge and the wall, through which we peered into a
+ daisy-starred pasture, where a white bossy and a herd of flaxen-haired
+ cows fed on the sweet green grass. The mellow ploughed earth on the right
+ hand stretched down to the shore-line, and a plough-boy walked up and down
+ the long, straight furrows whistling &lsquo;My Nannie&rsquo;s awa&rsquo;.&rsquo; Pettybaw is so
+ far removed from the music-halls that their cheap songs and strident
+ echoes never reach its sylvan shades, and the herd-laddies and plough-boys
+ still sweeten their labours with the old classic melodies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We walked on and on, determined to come every day; and we settled that if
+ we were accosted by any one, or if our innocent business were demanded,
+ Francesca should ask, &lsquo;Does Mrs. Macstronachlacher live here, and has she
+ any new-laid eggs?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Soon the gates of the Farm appeared in sight. There was a cluster of
+ buildings, with doves huddling and cooing on the red-tiled roofs,&mdash;dairy
+ houses, workmen&rsquo;s cottages, comely rows of haystacks (towering yellow
+ things with peaked tops); a little pond with ducks and geese chattering
+ together as they paddled about, and for additional music the trickling of
+ two tiny burns making &lsquo;a singan din,&rsquo; as they wimpled through the bushes.
+ A speckle-breasted thrush perched on a corner of the grey wall and poured
+ his heart out. Overhead there was a chorus of rooks in the tall trees, but
+ there was no sound of human voice save that of the plough-laddie whistling
+ &lsquo;My Nannie&rsquo;s awa&rsquo;.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We turned our backs on this darling solitude, and retraced our steps
+ lingeringly. As we neared the wicket gate again we stood upon a bit of
+ jutting rock and peered over the wall, sniffing the hawthorn buds with
+ ecstasy. The white bossy drew closer, treading softly on its daisy carpet;
+ the wondering cows looked up at us as they peacefully chewed their cuds; a
+ man in corduroy breeches came from a corner of the pasture, and with a
+ sharp, narrow hoe rooted out a thistle or two that had found their way
+ into this sweet feeding-ground. Suddenly we heard the swish of a dress
+ behind, and turned, conscience-stricken, though we had in nothing sinned.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Does Mrs. Macstronachlacher live here?&rdquo; stammered Francesca like a
+ parrot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was an idiotic time and place for the question. We had certainly
+ arranged that she should ask it, but something must be left to the
+ judgment in such cases. Francesca was hanging over a stone wall regarding
+ a herd of cows in a pasture, and there was no possible shelter for a Mrs.
+ Macstronachlacher within a quarter of a mile. What made the remark more
+ unfortunate was the fact that, although she had on a different dress and
+ bonnet, the person interrogated was the Disagreeable Woman; but Francesca
+ is particularly slow in discerning resemblances. She would have gone on
+ mechanically asking for new-laid eggs, had I not caught her eye and held
+ it sternly. The foe looked at us suspiciously for a moment (Francesca&rsquo;s
+ hats are not easily forgotten), and then vanished up the path, to tell the
+ people at Crummylowe, I suppose, that their grounds were invested by
+ marauding strangers whose curiosity was manifestly the outgrowth of a
+ republican government.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As she disappeared in one direction, we walked slowly in the other; and
+ just as we reached the corner of the pasture where two stone walls meet,
+ and where a group of oaks gives grateful shade, we heard children&rsquo;s
+ voices.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, no!&rdquo; cried somebody; &ldquo;it must be still higher at this end, for the
+ tower&mdash;this is where the king will sit. Help me with this heavy one,
+ Rafe. Dandie, mind your foot. Why don&rsquo;t you be making the flag for the
+ ship?&mdash;and do keep the Wrig away from us till we finish building!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XVII. Playing Sir Patrick Spens.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;O lang, lang may the ladyes sit
+ Wi&rsquo; their face into their hand,
+ Before they see Sir Patrick Spens
+ Come sailing to the strand.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Sir Patrick Spens.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We forced our toes into the crevices of the wall and peeped stealthily
+ over the top. Two boys of eight or ten years, with two younger children,
+ were busily engaged in building a castle. A great pile of stones had been
+ hauled to the spot, evidently for the purpose of mending the wall, and
+ these were serving as rich material for sport. The oldest of the company,
+ a bright-eyed, rosy-cheeked boy in an Eton jacket and broad white collar,
+ was obviously commander-in-chief; and the next in size, whom he called
+ Rafe, was a laddie of eight, in kilts. These two looked as if they might
+ be scions of the aristocracy, while Dandie and the Wrig were fat little
+ yokels of another sort. The miniature castle must have been the work of
+ several mornings, and was worthy of the respectful but silent admiration
+ with which we gazed upon it; but as the last stone was placed in the
+ tower, the master builder looked up and spied our interested eyes peering
+ at him over the wall. We were properly abashed, and ducked our heads
+ discreetly at once, but were reassured by hearing him run rapidly towards
+ us, calling, &ldquo;Stop, if you please! Have you anything on just now&mdash;are
+ you busy?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We answered that we were quite at leisure.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Then would you mind coming in to help us play &lsquo;Sir Patrick Spens&rsquo;? There
+ aren&rsquo;t enough of us to do it nicely.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This confidence was touching, and luckily it was not in the least
+ misplaced. Playing &lsquo;Sir Patrick Spens&rsquo; was exactly in our line, little as
+ he suspected it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Come and help?&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;Simply delighted! Do come, Fanny dear. How can
+ we get over the wall?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;ll show you the good broken place!&rdquo; cried Sir Apple-Cheek; and
+ following his directions we scrambled through, while Rafe took off his
+ Highland bonnet ceremoniously and handed us down to earth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Hurrah! now it will be something like fun! Do you know &lsquo;Sir Patrick
+ Spens&rsquo;?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Every word of it. Don&rsquo;t you want us to pass an examination before you
+ allow us in the game?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No,&rdquo; he answered gravely; &ldquo;it&rsquo;s a great help, of course, to know it, but
+ it isn&rsquo;t necessary. I keep the words in my pocket to prompt Dandie, and
+ the Wrig can only say two lines, she&rsquo;s so little.&rdquo; (Here he produced some
+ tattered leaves torn from a book of ballads.) &ldquo;We&rsquo;ve done it many a time,
+ but this is a new Dunfermline Castle, and we are trying the play in a
+ different way. Rafe is the king, and Dandie is the &lsquo;eldern knight,&rsquo;&mdash;you
+ remember him?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Certainly; he sat at the king&rsquo;s right knee.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, yes, that&rsquo;s the one! Then Rafe is Sir Patrick part of the time, and
+ I the other part, because everybody likes to be him; but there&rsquo;s nobody
+ left for the &lsquo;lords o&rsquo; Noroway&rsquo; or the sailors, and the Wrig is the only
+ maiden to sit on the shore, and she always forgets to comb her hair and
+ weep at the right time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The forgetful and placid Wrig (I afterwards learned that this is a Scots
+ word for the youngest bird in the nest) was seated on the grass, with her
+ fat hands full of pink thyme and white wild woodruff. The sun shone on her
+ curly flaxen head. She wore a dark blue cotton frock with white dots, and
+ a short-sleeved pinafore; and though she was utterly useless from a
+ dramatic point of view, she was the sweetest little Scotch dumpling I ever
+ looked upon. She had been tried and found wanting in most of the principal
+ parts of the ballad, but when left out of the performance altogether she
+ was wont to scream so lustily that all Crummylowe rushed to her
+ assistance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Now let us practise a bit to see if we know what we are going to do,&rdquo;
+ said Sir Apple-Cheek. &ldquo;Rafe, you can be Sir Patrick this time. The reason
+ why we all like to be Sir Patrick,&rdquo; he explained, turning to me, &ldquo;is that
+ the lords o&rsquo; Noroway say to him&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Ye Scottishmen spend a&rsquo; our King&rsquo;s gowd,
+ And a&rsquo; our Queenis fee&rsquo;;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ and then he answers,&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Ye lee! ye lee! ye leers loud,
+ Fu&rsquo; loudly do ye lee!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ and a lot of splendid things like that. Well, I&rsquo;ll be the king,&rdquo; and
+ accordingly he began:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The King sits in Dunfermline tower,
+ Drinking the bluid-red wine.
+ &ldquo;O whaur will I get a skeely skipper
+ To sail this new ship o&rsquo; mine?&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ A dead silence ensued, whereupon the king said testily, &ldquo;Now, Dandie, you
+ never remember you&rsquo;re the eldern knight; go on!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Thus reminded, Dandie recited:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;O up and spake an eldern knight,
+ Sat at the King&rsquo;s right knee:
+ &ldquo;Sir Patrick Spens is the best sailor
+ That ever sailed the sea.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Now I&rsquo;ll write my letter,&rdquo; said the king, who was endeavouring to make
+ himself comfortable in his somewhat contracted tower.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The King has written a braid letter
+ And sealed it with his hand;
+ And sent it to Sir Patrick Spens,
+ Was walking on the strand.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Read the letter out loud, Rafe, and then you&rsquo;ll remember what to do.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;To Noroway! to Noroway!
+ To Noroway o&rsquo;er the faem!
+ The King&rsquo;s daughter of Noroway,
+ &lsquo;Tis thou maun bring her hame,&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ read Rafe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Now do the next part!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I can&rsquo;t; I&rsquo;m going to chuck up that next part. I wish you&rsquo;d do Sir
+ Patrick until it comes to &lsquo;Ye lee! &lsquo;ye lee!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, that won&rsquo;t do, Rafe. We have to mix up everybody else, but it&rsquo;s too
+ bad to spoil Sir Patrick.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Well, I&rsquo;ll give him to you, then, and be the king. I don&rsquo;t mind so much
+ now that we&rsquo;ve got such a good tower; and why can&rsquo;t I stop up there even
+ after the ship sets sail and look out over the sea with a telescope?
+ That&rsquo;s the way Elizabeth did the time she was king.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You can stay till you have to come down and be a dead Scots lord. I&rsquo;m not
+ going to lie there as I did last time, with nobody but the Wrig for a
+ Scots lord, and her forgetting to be dead!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Sir Apple-Cheek then essayed the hard part &lsquo;chucked up&rsquo; by Rafe. It was
+ rather difficult, I confess, as the first four lines were in pantomime,
+ and required great versatility:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The first word that Sir Patrick read,
+ Fu&rsquo; loud, loud laughed he:
+ The neist word that Sir Patrick read,
+ The tear blinded his e&rsquo;e.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ These conflicting emotions successfully simulated, Sir Patrick resumed:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;O wha is he has done this deed,
+ And tauld the King o&rsquo; me,&mdash;
+ To send us out, at this time o&rsquo; the year,
+ To sail upon the sea?&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Then the king stood up in the unstable tower and shouted his own orders:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Be it wind, be it weet, be it hail, be it sleet,
+ Our ship maun sail the faem;
+ The King&rsquo;s daughter o&rsquo; Noroway,
+ &lsquo;Tis we maun fetch her hame.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Can&rsquo;t we rig the ship a little better?&rdquo; demanded our stage-manager at
+ this juncture. &ldquo;It isn&rsquo;t half as good as the tower.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Ten minutes&rsquo; hard work, in which we assisted, produced something a trifle
+ more nautical and seaworthy than the first craft. The ground with a few
+ boards spread upon it was the deck. Tarpaulin sheets were arranged on
+ sticks to represent sails, and we located the vessel so cleverly that two
+ slender trees shot out of the middle of it and served as the tall
+ topmasts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Now let us make believe that we&rsquo;ve hoisted our sails on &lsquo;Mononday morn&rsquo;
+ and been in Noroway &lsquo;weeks but only twae,&rsquo;&rdquo; said our leading man; &ldquo;and
+ your time has come now,&rdquo;&mdash;turning to us.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We felt indeed that it had; but plucking up sufficient courage for the
+ lords o&rsquo; Noroway, we cried accusingly,&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Ye Scottishmen spend a&rsquo; our King&rsquo;s gowd,
+ And a&rsquo; our Queenis fee!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Oh but Sir Apple-Cheek was glorious as he roared virtuously:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Ye lee! ye lee! ye leers loud,
+ Fu&rsquo; loudly do you lee!
+
+ &ldquo;For I brocht as much white monie
+ As gane my men and me,
+ An&rsquo; I brocht a half-fou o&rsquo; gude red gowd
+ Out ower the sea wi&rsquo; me.
+
+ &ldquo;But betide me well, betide me wae,
+ This day I&rsquo;se leave the shore;
+ And never spend my King&rsquo;s monie
+ &lsquo;Mong Noroway dogs no more.
+
+ &ldquo;Make ready, make ready, my merry men a&rsquo;,
+ Our gude ship sails the morn.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Now you be the sailors, please!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Glad to be anything but Noroway dogs, we recited obediently&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Now, ever alake, my master dear,
+ I fear a deadly storm?
+ . . . . . . .
+ And if ye gang to sea, master,
+ I fear we&rsquo;ll come to harm.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We added much to the effect of this stanza by flinging ourselves on the
+ turf and embracing Sir Patrick&rsquo;s knees, with which touch of melodrama he
+ was enchanted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then came a storm so terrible that I can hardly trust myself to describe
+ its fury. The entire corps dramatique personated the elements, and tore
+ the gallant ship in twain, while Sir Patrick shouted in the teeth of the
+ gale&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;O whaur will I get a gude sailor
+ To tak&rsquo; my helm in hand,
+ Till I get up to the tall topmast
+ To see if I can spy land?&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I knew the words a trifle better than Francesca, and thus succeeded in
+ forestalling her as the fortunate hero&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;O here I am, a sailor gude,
+ To tak&rsquo; the helm in hand,
+ Till you go up to the tall topmast;
+ But I fear ye&rsquo;ll ne&rsquo;er spy land.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ And the heroic sailor was right, for
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;He hadna gone a step, a step,
+ A step but only ane,
+ When a bout flew out o&rsquo; our goodly ship,
+ And the saut sea it came in.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Then we fetched a web o&rsquo; the silken claith, and anither o&rsquo; the twine, as
+ our captain bade us; we wapped them into our ship&rsquo;s side and letna the sea
+ come in; but in vain, in vain. Laith were the gude Scots lords to weet
+ their cork-heeled shune, but they did, and wat their hats abune; for the
+ ship sank in spite of their despairing efforts,
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;And mony was the gude lord&rsquo;s son
+ That never mair cam&rsquo; hame.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Francesca and I were now obliged to creep from under the tarpaulins and
+ personate the dishevelled ladies on the strand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Will your hair come down?&rdquo; asked the manager gravely.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It will and shall,&rdquo; we rejoined; and it did.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The ladies wrang their fingers white,
+ The maidens tore their hair.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do tear your hair, Jessie! It&rsquo;s the only thing you have to do, and you
+ never do it on time!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Wrig made ready to howl with offended pride, but we soothed her, and
+ she tore her yellow curls with her chubby hands.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;And lang, lang may the maidens sit
+ Wi&rsquo; there gowd kaims i&rsquo; the hair,
+ A&rsquo; waitin&rsquo; for their ain dear luves,
+ For them they&rsquo;ll see nae mair.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I did a bit of sobbing here that would have been a credit to Sarah
+ Siddons.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Splendid! Grand!&rdquo; cried Sir Patrick, as he stretched himself fifty
+ fathoms below the imaginary surface of the water, and gave explicit
+ ante-mortem directions to the other Scots lords to spread themselves out
+ in like manner.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Half ower, half ower to Aberdour,
+ &lsquo;Tis fifty fathoms deep,
+ And there lies gude Sir Patrick Spens,
+ Wi&rsquo; the Scots lords at his feet.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, it is grand!&rdquo; he repeated jubilantly. &ldquo;If I could only be the king
+ and see it all from Dunfermline tower! Could you be Sir Patrick once, do
+ you think, now that I have shown you how?&rdquo; he asked Francesca.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Indeed I could!&rdquo; she replied, glowing with excitement (and small wonder)
+ at being chosen for the principal role.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The only trouble is that you do look awfully like a girl in that white
+ frock.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca appeared rather ashamed at her natural disqualifications for the
+ part of Sir Patrick. &ldquo;If I had only worn my long black cloak!&rdquo; she sighed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, I have an idea!&rdquo; cried the boy. &ldquo;Hand her the minister&rsquo;s gown from
+ the hedge, Rafe. You see, Mistress Ogilvie of Crummylowe lent us this old
+ gown for a sail; she&rsquo;s doing something to a new one, and this was her
+ pattern.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca slipped it on over her white serge, and the Pettybaw parson
+ should have seen her with the long veil of her dark locks floating over
+ his ministerial garment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It seems a pity to put up your hair,&rdquo; said the stage manager critically,
+ &ldquo;because you look so jolly and wild with it down, but I suppose you must;
+ and will you have Rafe&rsquo;s bonnet?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Yes, she would have Rafe&rsquo;s bonnet; and when she perched it on the side of
+ her head and paced the deck restlessly, while the black gown floated
+ behind in the breeze, we all cheered with enthusiasm, and, having rebuilt
+ the ship, began the play again from the moment of the gale. The wreck was
+ more horribly realistic than ever, this time, because of our rehearsal;
+ and when I crawled from under the masts and sails to seat myself on the
+ beach with the Wrig, I had scarcely strength enough to remove the cooky
+ from her hand and set her a-combing her curly locks.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When our new Sir Patrick stretched herself on the ocean bed, she fell with
+ a despairing wail; her gown spread like a pall over the earth, the
+ Highland bonnet came off, and her hair floated over a haphazard pillow of
+ Jessie&rsquo;s wildflowers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, it is fine, that part; but from here is where it always goes wrong!&rdquo;
+ cried the king from the castle tower. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s too bad to take the maidens
+ away from the strand where they look so bonnie, and Rafe is splendid as
+ the gude sailor, but Dandie looks so silly as one little dead Scots lord;
+ if we only had one more person, young or old, if he was ever so stupid!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;WOULD I DO?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This unexpected offer came from behind one of the trees that served as
+ topmasts, and at the same moment there issued from that delightfully
+ secluded retreat Ronald Macdonald, in knickerbockers and a golf-cap.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly as this apparition came, there was no lack of welcome on the
+ children&rsquo;s part. They shouted his name in glee, embraced his legs, and
+ pulled him about like affectionate young bears. Confusion reigned for a
+ moment, while Sir Patrick rose from her sea grave all in a mist of
+ floating hair, from which hung impromptu garlands of pink thyme and green
+ grasses.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Allow me to do the honours, please, Jamie,&rdquo; said Mr. Macdonald, when he
+ could escape from the children&rsquo;s clutches. &ldquo;Have you been properly
+ presented? I suppose not. Ladies, the young Master of Rowardennan. Jamie,
+ Miss Hamilton and Miss Monroe from the United States of America.&rdquo; Sir
+ Apple-Cheek bowed respectfully. &ldquo;Let me present the Honourable Ralph
+ Ardmore, also from the castle, together with Dandie Dinmont and the Wrig
+ from Crummylowe. Sir Patrick, it is indeed a pleasure to see you again.
+ Must you take off my gown? I had thought it was past use, but it never
+ looked so well before.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;YOUR gown?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The counterfeit presentment of Sir Patrick vanished as the long drapery
+ flew to the hedge whence it came, and there remained only an offended
+ young goddess, who swung her dark mane tempestuously to one side, plaited
+ it in a thick braid, tossed it back again over her white serge shoulder,
+ and crowded on her sailor hat with unnecessary vehemence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, MY gown; whose else could you more appropriately borrow, pray?
+ Mistress Ogilvie of Crummylowe presses, sponges, and darns my bachelor
+ wardrobe, but I confess I never suspected that she rented it out for
+ theatrical purposes. I have been calling upon you in Pettybaw; Lady
+ Ardmore was there at the same time. Finding but one of the three American
+ Graces at home, I stayed a few moments only, and am now returning to
+ Inchcaldy by way of Crummylowe.&rdquo; Here he plucked the gown off the hedge
+ and folded it carefully.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Can&rsquo;t we keep it for a sail, Mr. Macdonald?&rdquo; pleaded Jamie. &ldquo;Mistress
+ Ogilvie said it wasn&rsquo;t any more good.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;When Mistress Ogilvie made that remark,&rdquo; replied the Reverend Ronald,
+ &ldquo;she had no idea that it would ever touch the shoulders of the martyred
+ Sir Patrick Spens. Now, I happen to love&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca hung out a scarlet flag in each cheek, and I was about to say,
+ &lsquo;Don&rsquo;t mind me!&rsquo; when he continued&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;As I was saying, I happen to love &lsquo;Sir Patrick Spens,&rsquo;&mdash;it is my
+ favourite ballad; so, with your permission, I will take the gown, and you
+ can find something less valuable for a sail!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I could never understand just why Francesca was so annoyed at being
+ discovered in our innocent game. Of course she was prone on Mother Earth
+ and her tresses were much dishevelled, but she looked lovely after all, in
+ comparison with me, the humble &lsquo;supe&rsquo; and lightning-change artist; yet I
+ kept my temper,&mdash;at least I kept it until the Reverend Ronald
+ observed, after escorting us through the gap in the wall, &ldquo;By the way,
+ Miss Hamilton, there was a gentleman from Paris at your cottage, and he is
+ walking down the road to meet you.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Walking down the road to meet me, forsooth! Have ministers no brains? The
+ Reverend Mr. Macdonald had wasted five good minutes with his observations,
+ introductions, explanations, felicitations, and adorations, and meantime,
+ regardez-moi, messieurs et mesdames, s&rsquo;il vous plait! I have been a
+ Noroway dog, a shipbuilder, and a gallant sailorman; I have been a gurly
+ sea and a towering gale; I have crawled from beneath broken anchors,
+ topsails, and mizzenmasts to a strand where I have been a suffering lady
+ plying a gowd kaim. My skirt of blue drill has been twisted about my
+ person until it trails in front; my collar is wilted, my cravat untied; I
+ have lost a stud and a sleeve-link; my hair is in a tangled mass, my face
+ is scarlet and dusty&mdash;and a gentleman from Paris is walking down the
+ road to meet me!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XVIII. Paris comes to Pettybaw.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;There were three ladies in a hall&mdash;
+ With a heigh-ho! and a lily gay,
+ There came a lord among them all&mdash;
+ As the primrose spreads so sweetly.&rsquo;
+
+ &mdash;The Cruel Brother.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Willie Beresford has come to Pettybaw, and that Arcadian village has
+ received the last touch that makes it Paradise.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We are exploring the neighbourhood together, and whichever path we take we
+ think it lovelier than the one before. This morning we drove to Pettybaw
+ Sands, Francesca and Salemina following by the footpath and meeting us on
+ the shore. It is all so enchantingly fresh and green on one of these rare
+ bright days: the trig lass bleaching her &lsquo;claes&rsquo; on the grass by the burn
+ near the little stone bridge; the wild partridges whirring about in pairs;
+ the farm-boy seated on the clean straw in the bottom of his cart, and
+ cracking his whip in mere wanton joy at the sunshine; the pretty cottages;
+ and the gardens with rows of currant and gooseberry bushes hanging thick
+ with fruit that suggests jam and tart in every delicious globule. It is a
+ love-coloured landscape, we know it full well; and nothing in the fair
+ world about us is half as beautiful as what we see in each other&rsquo;s eyes.
+ Ah, the memories of these first golden mornings together after our long
+ separation. I shall sprinkle them with lavender and lay them away in that
+ dim chamber of the heart where we keep precious things. We all know the
+ chamber. It is fragrant with other hidden treasures, for all of them are
+ sweet, though some are sad. That is the reason why we put a finger on the
+ lip and say &lsquo;Hush,&rsquo; if we open the door and allow any one to peep in.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We tied the pony by the wayside and alighted: Willie to gather some sprays
+ of the pink veronica and blue speedwell, I to sit on an old bench and
+ watch him in happy idleness. The &lsquo;white-blossomed slaes&rsquo; sweetened the
+ air, and the distant hills were gay with golden whin and broom, or flushed
+ with the purply-red of the bell heather.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We heard the note of the cushats from a neighbouring bush. They used to
+ build their nests on the ground, so the story goes, but the cows trampled
+ them. Now they are wiser and build higher, and their cry is supposed to be
+ a derisive one, directed to their ancient enemies. &lsquo;Come noo, Coo, Coo!
+ Come noo!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A hedgehog crept stealthily along the ground, and at a sudden sound curled
+ himself up like a wee brown bear. There were women working in the fields
+ near by,&mdash;a strange sight to our eyes at first, but nothing unusual
+ here, where many of them are employed on the farms all the year round,
+ sowing weeding, planting, even ploughing in the spring, and in winter
+ working at threshing or in the granary.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ An old man, leaning on his staff, came tottering feebly along, and sank
+ down on the bench beside me. He was dirty, ragged, unkempt, and feeble,
+ but quite sober, and pathetically anxious for human sympathy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;m achty-sax year auld,&rsquo; he maundered, apropos of nothing, &ldquo;achty-sax
+ year auld. I&rsquo;ve seen five lairds o&rsquo; Pettybaw, sax placed meenisters, an&rsquo;
+ seeven doctors. I was a mason, an&rsquo; a stoot mon i&rsquo; thae days, but it&rsquo;s a
+ meeserable life noo. Wife deid, bairns deid! I sit by my lane, an&rsquo; smoke
+ my pipe, wi&rsquo; naebody to gi&rsquo;e me a sup o&rsquo; water. Achty-sax is ower auld for
+ a mon,&mdash;ower auld.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These are the sharp contrasts of life one cannot bear to face when one is
+ young and happy. Willie gave him a half-crown and some tobacco for his
+ pipe, and when the pony trotted off briskly, and we left the shrunken
+ figure alone on his bench as he was lonely in his life, we kissed each
+ other and pledged ourselves to look after him as long as we remain in
+ Pettybaw; for what is love worth if it does not kindle the flames of
+ spirit, open the gates of feeling, and widen the heart to shelter all the
+ little loves and great loves that crave admittance?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As we neared the tiny fishing-village on the sands we met a fishwife brave
+ in her short skirt and eight petticoats, the basket with its two hundred
+ pound weight on her head, and the auld wife herself knitting placidly as
+ she walked along. They look superbly strong, these women; but, to be sure,
+ the &lsquo;weak anes dee,&rsquo; as one of them told me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was an air of bustle about the little quay,&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;That joyfu&rsquo; din when the boats come in,
+ When the boats come in sae early;
+ When the lift is blue an&rsquo; the herring-nets fu&rsquo;,
+ And the sun glints in a&rsquo; things rarely.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The silvery shoals of fish no longer come so near the shore as they used
+ in the olden time, for then the kirk bell of St. Monan&rsquo;s had its tongue
+ tied when the &lsquo;draive&rsquo; was off the coast, lest its knell should frighten
+ away the shining myriads of the deep.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We climbed the shoulder of a great green cliff until we could sit on the
+ rugged rocks at the top and overlook the sea. The bluff is well named
+ Nirly Scaur, and a wild desolate spot it is, with grey lichen-clad
+ boulders and stunted heather on its summit. In a storm here, the wind
+ buffets and slashes and scourges one like invisible whips, and below the
+ sea churns itself into foaming waves, driving its &lsquo;infinite squadrons of
+ wild white horses&rsquo; eternally toward the shore. It was calm and blue
+ to-day, and no sound disturbed the quiet save the incessant shriek and
+ scream of the rock birds, the kittiwakes, black-headed gulls, and
+ guillemots that live on the sides of these high sheer craigs. Here the
+ mother guillemot lays her single egg, and here, on these narrow shelves of
+ precipitous rock, she holds it in place with her foot until the warmth of
+ her leg and overhanging body hatches it into life, when she takes it on
+ her back and flies down to the sea. Motherhood under difficulties, it
+ would seem, and the education of the baby guillemot is carried forward on
+ Spartan principles; for the moment he is out of the shell he is swept
+ downward hundreds of feet and plunged into a cold ocean, where he can sink
+ or swim as instinct serves him. In a life so fraught with anxieties,
+ exposures, and dangers, it is not strange that the guillemots keeps up a
+ ceaseless clang of excited conversation, a very riot and wrangle of
+ altercation and argument which the circumstances seem to warrant. The
+ prospective father is obliged to take turns with the prospective mother,
+ and hold the one precious egg on the rock while she goes for a fly, a
+ swim, a bite, and a sup. As there are five hundred other parents on the
+ same rock, and the eggs look to be only a couple of inches apart, the
+ scene must be distracting, and I have no doubt we should find, if
+ statistics were gathered, that thousands of guillemots die of nervous
+ prostration.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Willie and I interpreted the clamour somewhat as follows:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ [Between parent birds.]
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going to take my foot off. Are you ready to put yours on? Don&rsquo;t be
+ clumsy! Wait a minute, I&rsquo;m not ready. I&rsquo;M NOT READY, I TELL YOU! NOW!!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ [Between rival mothers.]
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Your egg is so close to mine that I can&rsquo;t breathe&mdash;-&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Move your egg, then, I can&rsquo;t move mine!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You&rsquo;re sitting so close, I can&rsquo;t stretch my wings.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Neither can I. You&rsquo;ve got as much room as I have.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I shall tumble if you crowd me.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Go ahead and tumble, then! There is plenty of room in the sea.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ [From one father to another ceremoniously.]
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Pardon me, but I&rsquo;m afraid I shoved your wife off the rock last night.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t mention it. I remember I shoved off your wife&rsquo;s mother last year.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We walked among the tiny whitewashed low-roofed cots, each with its
+ silver-skinned fishes tacked invitingly against the door-frame to dry,
+ until we came to my favourite, the corner cottage in the row. It has
+ beautiful narrow garden strips in front,&mdash;solid patches of colour in
+ sweet gillyflower bushes, from which the kindly housewife plucked a
+ nosegay for us. Her white columbines she calls &lsquo;granny&rsquo;s mutches&rsquo;; and
+ indeed they are not unlike those fresh white caps. Dear Robbie Burns, ten
+ inches high in plaster, stands in the sunny window in a tiny box of
+ blossoming plants surrounded by a miniature green picket fence. Outside,
+ looming white among the gillyflowers, is Sir Walter, and near him is still
+ another and a larger bust on a cracked pedestal a foot high, perhaps. We
+ did not recognise the head at once, and asked the little woman who it was.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Homer, the graund Greek poet,&rdquo; she answered cheerily; &ldquo;an&rsquo; I&rsquo;m to have
+ anither o&rsquo; Burns, as tall as Homer, when my daughter comes hame frae
+ E&rsquo;nbro&rsquo;.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If the shade of Homer keeps account of his earthly triumphs, I think he is
+ proud of his place in that humble Scotchwoman&rsquo;s gillyflower garden, with
+ his head under the drooping petals of granny&rsquo;s white mutches.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What do you think her &lsquo;mon&rsquo; is called in the village! John o&rsquo; Mary! But he
+ is not alone in his meekness, for there are Jock o&rsquo; Meg, Willie o&rsquo; Janet,
+ Jem o&rsquo; Tibby, and a dozen others. These primitive fishing-villages are the
+ places where all the advanced women ought to congregate, for the wife is
+ head of the house; the accountant, the treasurer, the auditor, the
+ chancellor of the exchequer; and though her husband does catch the fish
+ for her to sell, that is accounted apparently as a detail too trivial for
+ notice.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When we passed Mary&rsquo;s cottage on our way to the sands next day, Burns&rsquo;s
+ head had been accidentally broken off by the children, and we felt as
+ though we had lost a friend; but Scotch thrift, and loyalty to the dear
+ Ploughman Poet, came to the rescue, and when we returned, Robert&rsquo;s plaster
+ head had been glued to his body. He smiled at us again from between the
+ two scarlet geraniums, and a tendril of ivy had been gently curled about
+ his neck to hide the cruel wound.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After such long, lovely mornings as this, there is a late luncheon under
+ the shadow of a rock with Salemina and Francesca, an idle chat, or the
+ chapter of a book, and presently Lady Ardmore and her daughter Elizabeth
+ drive down to the sands. They are followed by Robin Anstruther, Jamie, and
+ Ralph on bicycles, and before long the stalwart figure of Ronald Macdonald
+ appears in the distance, just in time for a cup of tea, which we brew in
+ Lady Ardmore&rsquo;s bath-house on the beach.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XIX. Fowk o&rsquo; Fife.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;To you I sing, in simple Scottish lays,
+ The lowly train in life&rsquo;s sequester&rsquo;d scene;
+ The native feelings strong, the guileless ways.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Cotter&rsquo;s Saturday Night.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have lived in Pettybaw a very short time, but I see that we have
+ already made an impression upon all grades of society. This was not our
+ intention. We gave Edinburgh as our last place of residence, with the view
+ of concealing our nationality, until such time as we should choose to
+ declare it; that is, when public excitement with regard to our rental of
+ the house in the loaning should have lapsed into a state of indifference.
+ And yet, modest, economical, and commonplace as has been the
+ administration of our affairs, our method of life has evidently been
+ thought unusual, and our conduct not precisely the conduct of other summer
+ visitors. Even our daily purchases, in manner, in number, and in
+ character, seem to be looked upon as eccentric, for whenever we leave a
+ shop, the relatives of the greengrocer, flesher, draper, whoever it may
+ be, bound downstairs, surround him in an eager circle, and inquire the
+ latest news.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In an unwise moment we begged the draper&rsquo;s wife to honour us with a visit
+ and explain the obliquities of the kitchen range and the tortuosities of
+ the sink-spout to Miss Grieve. While our landlady was on the premises, I
+ took occasion to invite her up to my own room, with a view of seeing
+ whether my mattress of pebbles and iron-filings could be supplemented by
+ another of shavings or straw, or some material less provocative of bodily
+ injuries. She was most sympathetic, persuasive, logical and after the
+ manner of her kind proved to me conclusively that the trouble lay with the
+ too-saft occupant of the bed, not with the bed itself, and gave me
+ statistics with regard to the latter which established its reputation and
+ at the same moment destroyed my own.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She looked in at the various doors casually as she passed up and down the
+ stairs,&mdash;all save that of the dining-room, which Francesca had
+ prudently locked to conceal the fact that we had covered the family
+ portraits,&mdash;and I noticed at the time that her face wore an
+ expression of mingled grief and astonishment. It seemed to us afterward
+ that there was a good deal more passing up and down the loaning than when
+ we first arrived. At dusk especially, small processions of children and
+ young people walked by our cottage and gave shy glances at the windows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Finding Miss Grieve in an unusually amiable mood, I inquired the probable
+ cause of this phenomenon. She would not go so far as to give any judicial
+ opinion, but offered a few conjectures.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It might be the tirling-pin; it might be the white satin ribbons on the
+ curtains; it might be the guitars and banjos; it might be the bicycle
+ crate; it might be the profusion of plants; it might be the continual
+ feasting and revelry; it might be the blazing fires in a Pettybaw summer.
+ She thought a much more likely reason, however, was because it had become
+ known in the village that we had moved every stick of furniture in the
+ house out of its accustomed place and taken the dressing-tables away from
+ the windows,&mdash;&lsquo;the windys,&rsquo; she called them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I discussed this matter fully with Mr. Macdonald later on. He laughed
+ heartily, but confessed, with an amused relish of his national
+ conservatism, that to his mind there certainly was something radical,
+ advanced, and courageous in taking a dressing-table away from its place,
+ back to the window, and putting it anywhere else in a room. He would be
+ frank, he said, and acknowledge that it suggested an undisciplined and
+ lawless habit of thought, a disregard for authority, a lack of reverence
+ for tradition, and a riotous and unbridled imagination.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This view of the matter gave us exquisite enjoyment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But why?&rdquo; I asked laughingly. &ldquo;The dressing-table is not a sacred object,
+ even to a woman. Why treat it with such veneration? Where there is but one
+ good light, and that immediately in front of the window, there is every
+ excuse for the British custom, but when the light is well diffused, why
+ not place the table where-ever it looks well?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ah, but it doesn&rsquo;t look well anywhere but back to the window,&rdquo; said Mr.
+ Macdonald artlessly. &ldquo;It belongs there, you see; it has probably been
+ there since the time of Malcolm Canmore, unless Margaret was too pious to
+ look in a mirror. With your national love of change, you cannot conceive
+ how soothing it is to know that whenever you enter your gate and glance
+ upward, you will always see the curtains parted, and between them, like an
+ idol in a shrine, the ugly wooden back of a little oval or oblong
+ looking-glass. It gives one a sense of permanence in a world where all is
+ fleeting.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The public interest in our doings seems to be entirely of a friendly
+ nature, and if our neighbours find a hundredth part of the charm and
+ novelty in us that we find in them, they are fortunate indeed, and we
+ cheerfully sacrifice our privacy on the altar of the public good.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A village in Scotland is the only place I can fancy where housekeeping
+ becomes an enthralling occupation. All drudgery disappears in a rosy glow
+ of unexpected, unique, and stimulating conditions. I would rather
+ superintend Miss Grieve, and cause the light of amazement to gleam ten
+ times daily in her humid eye, than lead a cotillion with Willie Beresford.
+ I would rather do the marketing for our humble breakfasts and teas, or
+ talk over the day&rsquo;s luncheons and dinners with Mistress Brodie of the
+ Pettybaw Inn and Posting Establishment, than go to the opera.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina and Francesca do not enjoy it all quite as intensely as I, so
+ they considerately give me the lion&rsquo;s share. Every morning, after an
+ exhilarating interview with the Niobe of our kitchen (who thinks me
+ irresponsible, and prays Heaven in her heart I be no worse), I put on my
+ goloshes, take my umbrella, and trudge up and down the little streets and
+ lanes on real and, if need be, imaginary errands. The Duke of Wellington
+ said, &lsquo;When fair in Scotland, always carry an umbrella; when it rains,
+ please yourself,&rsquo; and I sometimes agree with Stevenson&rsquo;s shivering
+ statement, &lsquo;Life does not seem to me to be an amusement adapted to this
+ climate.&rsquo; I quoted this to the doctor yesterday, but he remarked with some
+ surprise that he had not missed a day&rsquo;s golfing for weeks. The chemist
+ observed as he handed me a cake of soap, &lsquo;Won&rsquo;erful blest in weather, we
+ are, mam,&rsquo; simply because, the rain being unaccompanied with high wind,
+ one was enabled to hold up an umbrella without having it turned inside
+ out. When it ceased dripping for an hour at noon, the greengrocer said
+ cheerily, &lsquo;Another grand day, mam!&rsquo; I assented, though I could not for the
+ life of me remember when the last one occurred. However, dreary as the
+ weather may be, one cannot be dull when doing one&rsquo;s morning round of
+ shopping in Pettybaw or Strathdee. I have only to give you thumb-nail
+ sketches of our favourite tradespeople to convince you of that fact.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ We bought our first groceries of Mrs. Robert Phin, of Strathdee, simply
+ because she is an inimitable conversationalist. She is expansive, too,
+ about family matters, and tells us certain of her &lsquo;mon&rsquo;s&rsquo; faults which it
+ would be more seemly to keep in the safe shelter of her own bosom.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Rab takes a wee drappie too much, it appears, and takes it so often that
+ he has little time to earn an honest penny for his family. This is bad
+ enough; but the fact that Mrs. Phin has been twice wed before, and that in
+ each case she innocently chose a ne&rsquo;er-do-weel for a mate, makes her a
+ trifle cynical. She told me that she had laid twa husbands in the
+ kirk-yard near which her little shop stands, and added cheerfully, as I
+ made some sympathetic response, &lsquo;An&rsquo; I hope it&rsquo;ll no&rsquo; be lang afore I box
+ Rab!&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina objects to the shop because it is so disorderly. Soap and sugar,
+ tea and bloaters, starch and gingham, lead pencils and sausages, lie side
+ by side cosily. Boxes of pins are kept on top of kegs of herrings. Tins of
+ coffee are distributed impartially anywhere and everywhere, and the bacon
+ sometimes reposes in a glass case with small-wares and findings, out of
+ the reach of Alexander&rsquo;s dogs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Alexander is one of a brood, or perhaps I should say three broods, of
+ children which wander among the barrels and boxes and hams and winceys
+ seeking what they may devour,&mdash;a handful of sugar, a prune, or a
+ sweetie.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We often see the bairns at their luncheon or dinner in a little room just
+ off the shop, Alexander the Small always sitting or kneeling on a
+ &lsquo;creepie,&rsquo; holding his plate down firmly with the left hand and eating
+ with the right, whether the food be fish, porridge, or broth. In the Phin
+ family the person who does not hold his plate down runs the risk of losing
+ it to one of the other children or to the dogs, who, with eager eye and
+ reminding paw, gather round the hospitable board, licking their chops
+ hopefully.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I enjoy these scenes very much, but, alas! I can no longer witness them as
+ often as formerly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This morning Mrs. Phin greeted me with some embarrassment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Maybe ye&rsquo;ll no&rsquo; ken me,&rdquo; she said, her usually clear speech a little
+ blurred. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s the teeth. I&rsquo;ve mislaid &lsquo;em somewhere. I paid far too much
+ siller for &lsquo;em to wear &lsquo;em ilka day. Sometimes I rest &lsquo;em in the teabox to
+ keep &lsquo;em awa&rsquo; frae the bairns, but I canna find &lsquo;em theer. I&rsquo;m thinkin&rsquo;
+ maybe they&rsquo;ll be in the rice, but I&rsquo;ve been ower thrang to luik!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This anecdote was too rich to keep to myself, but its unconscious humour
+ made no impression upon Salemina, who insisted upon the withdrawal of our
+ patronage. I have tried to persuade her that, whatever may be said of tea
+ and rice, we run no risk in buying eggs; but she is relentless.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The kirkyard where Rab&rsquo;s two predecessors have been laid, and where Rab
+ will lie when Mrs. Phin has &lsquo;boxed&rsquo; him, is a sleepy little place set on a
+ gentle slope of ground, softly shaded by willow and yew trees. It is
+ enclosed by a stone wall, into which an occasional ancient tombstone is
+ built, its name and date almost obliterated by stress of time and weather.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We often walk through its quiet, myrtle-bordered paths on our way to the
+ other end of the village, where Mrs. Bruce, the flesher, keeps an
+ unrivalled assortment of beef and mutton. The headstones, many of them
+ laid flat upon the graves, are interesting to us because of their quaint
+ inscriptions, in which the occupation of the deceased is often stated with
+ modest pride and candour. One expects to see the achievements of the
+ soldier, the sailor, or the statesman carved in the stone that marks his
+ resting-place, but to our eyes it is strange enough to read that the
+ subject of eulogy was a plumber, tobacconist, maker of golf-balls, or a
+ golf champion; in which latter case there is a spirited etching or
+ bas-relief of the dead hero, with knickerbockers, cap, and clubs complete.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There, too, lies Thomas Loughead, Hairdresser, a profession far too little
+ celebrated in song and story. His stone is a simple one, and bears merely
+ the touching tribute:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ He was lovely and pleasant in his life,
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ the inference being, to one who knows a line of Scripture, that in his
+ death he was not divided.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These kirkyard personalities almost lead one to believe in the
+ authenticity of the British tradesman&rsquo;s epitaph, wherein his
+ practical-minded relict stated that the &lsquo;bereaved widow would continue to
+ carry on the tripe and trotter business at the old stand.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ One day when we were walking through the little village of Strathdee we
+ turned the corner of a quiet side street and came suddenly upon something
+ altogether strange and unexpected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A stone cottage of the everyday sort stood a trifle back from the road and
+ bore over its front door a sign announcing that Mrs. Bruce, Flesher,
+ carried on her business within; and indeed one could look through the
+ windows and see ruddy joints hanging from beams, and piles of
+ pink-and-white steaks and chops lying neatly on the counter, crying,
+ &lsquo;Come, eat me!&rsquo; Nevertheless, one&rsquo;s first glance would be arrested neither
+ by Mrs Bruce&rsquo;s black-and-gold sign, nor by the enticements of her
+ stock-in-trade, because one&rsquo;s attention is rapped squarely between the
+ eyes by an astonishing shape that arises from the patch of lawn in front
+ of the cottage, and completely dominates the scene. Imagine yourself face
+ to face with the last thing you would expect to see in a modest front
+ dooryard,&mdash;the figurehead of a ship, heroic in size, gorgeous in
+ colour, majestic in pose! A female personage it appears to be from the
+ drapery, which is the only key the artist furnishes as to sex, and a
+ queenly female withal, for she wears a crown at least a foot high, and
+ brandishes a forbidding sceptre. All this seen from the front, but the
+ rear view discloses the fact that the lady terminates in the tail of a
+ fish which wriggles artistically in mid-air and is of a brittle sort, as
+ it has evidently been thrice broken and glued together.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mrs Bruce did not leave us long in suspense, but obligingly came out,
+ partly to comment on the low price of mutton and partly to tell the tale
+ of the mammoth mermaid. By rights, of course, Mrs. Bruce&rsquo;s husband should
+ have been the gallant captain of a bark which foundered at sea and sent
+ every man to his grave on the ocean-bed. The ship&rsquo;s figurehead should have
+ been discovered by some miracle, brought to the sorrowing widow, and set
+ up in the garden in eternal remembrance of the dear departed. This was the
+ story in my mind, but as a matter of fact the rude effigy was wrought by
+ Mrs. Bruce&rsquo;s father for a ship to be called the Sea Queen, but by some
+ mischance, ship and figurehead never came together, and the old
+ wood-carver left it to his daughter, in lieu of other property. It has not
+ been wholly unproductive, Mrs. Bruce fancies, for the casual passers-by,
+ like those who came to scoff and remained to pray, go into the shop to ask
+ questions about the Sea Queen and buy chops out of courtesy and gratitude.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ On our way to the bakery, which is a daily walk with us, we always glance
+ at a little cot in a grassy lane just off the fore street. In one half of
+ this humble dwelling Mrs. Davidson keeps a slender stock of shop-worn
+ articles,&mdash;pins, needles, threads, sealing-wax, pencils, and sweeties
+ for the children, all disposed attractively upon a single shelf behind the
+ window.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Across the passage, close to the other window, sits day after day an old
+ woman of eight-six summers who has lost her kinship with the present and
+ gone back to dwell for ever in the past. A small table stands in front of
+ her rush-bottomed chair, the old family Bible rests upon it, and in front
+ of the Bible are always four tiny dolls, with which the trembling old
+ fingers play from morning till night. They are cheap, common little
+ puppets, but she robes and disrobes them with tenderest care. They are put
+ to bed upon the Bible, take their walks along its time-worn pages, are
+ married on it, buried on it, and the direst punishment they ever receive
+ is to be removed from its sacred covers and temporarily hidden beneath the
+ dear old soul&rsquo;s black alpaca apron. She is quite happy with her treasures
+ on week-days; but on Sundays&mdash;alas and alas! the poor old dame sits
+ in her lonely chair with the furtive tears dropping on her wrinkled
+ cheeks, for it is a God-fearing household, and it is neither lawful nor
+ seemly to play with dolls on the Sawbath!
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Mrs. Nicolson is the presiding genius of the bakery, she is more&mdash;she
+ is the bakery itself. A Mr. Nicolson there is, and he is known to be the
+ baker, but he dwells in the regions below the shop and only issues at rare
+ intervals, beneath the friendly shelter of a huge tin tray filled with
+ scones and baps.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If you saw Mrs. Nicolson&rsquo;s kitchen with the firelight gleaming on its
+ bright copper, its polished candlesticks, and its snowy floor, you would
+ think her an admirable housewife, but you would get no clue to those
+ shrewd and masterful traits of character which reveal themselves chiefly
+ behind the counter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Miss Grieve had purchased of Mrs. Nicolson a quarter section of very
+ appetising ginger-cake to eat with our afternoon tea, and I stepped in to
+ buy more. She showed me a large round loaf for two shillings.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I objected, &ldquo;I cannot use a whole loaf, thank you. We eat very
+ little at a time, and like it perfectly fresh. I wish a small piece such
+ as my maid bought the other day.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then ensued a discourse which I cannot render in the vernacular, more&rsquo;s
+ the pity, though I understood it all too well for my comfort. The
+ substance of it was this: that she couldna and wouldna tak&rsquo; it in hand to
+ give me a quarter section of cake when the other three-quarters might gae
+ dry in the bakery; that the reason she sold the small piece on the former
+ occasion was that her daughter, her son-in-law, and their three children
+ came from Ballahoolish to visit her, and she gave them a high tea with no
+ expense spared; that at this function they devoured three-fourths of a
+ ginger-cake, and just as she was mournfully regarding the remainder my
+ servant came in and took it off her hands; that she had kept a bakery for
+ thirty years and her mother before her, and never had a two-shilling
+ ginger-cake been sold in pieces before, nor was it likely ever to occur
+ again; that if I, under Providence, so to speak, had been the fortunate
+ gainer by the transaction, why not eat my six penny-worth in solemn
+ gratitude once for all, and not expect a like miracle to happen the next
+ week? And finally, that two-shilling ginger-cakes were, in the very nature
+ of things, designed for large families; and it was the part of wisdom for
+ small families to fix their affections on something else, for she couldna
+ and wouldna tak&rsquo; it in hand to cut a rare and expensive article for a
+ small customer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The torrent of logic was over, and I said humbly that I would take the
+ whole loaf.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Verra weel, mam,&rdquo; she responded more affably, &ldquo;thank you kindly; no, I
+ couldna tak&rsquo; it in hand to sell six pennyworth of that ginger-cake and let
+ one-and-sixpence worth gae dry in the bakery.&mdash;A beautiful day, mam!
+ Won&rsquo;erful blest in weather ye are! Let me open your umbrella for you,
+ mam!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ . . . .
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ David Robb is the weaver of Pettybaw. All day long he sits at his
+ old-fashioned hand-loom, which, like the fruit of his toil and the dear
+ old greybeard himself, belongs to a day that is past and gone.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He might have work enough to keep an apprentice busy, but where would he
+ find a lad sufficiently behind the times to learn a humble trade now
+ banished to the limbo of superseded, almost forgotten things?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His home is but a poor place, but the rough room in which he works is big
+ enough to hold a deal of sweet content. It is cheery enough, too, to
+ attract the Pettybaw weans, who steal in on wet days and sit on the floor
+ playing with the thrums, or with bits of coloured ravellings. Sometimes
+ when they have proved themselves wise and prudent little virgins, they are
+ even allowed to touch the hanks of pink and yellow and blue yarn that lie
+ in rainbow-hued confusion on the long deal table.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All this time the &lsquo;heddles&rsquo; go up and down, up and down, with their
+ ceaseless clatter, and David throws the shuttle back and forth as he
+ weaves his old-fashioned winceys.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have grown to be good friends, David and I, and I have been permitted
+ the signal honour of painting him at his work.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The loom stands by an eastern window, and the rare Pettybaw sunshine
+ filters through the branches of a tree, shines upon the dusty
+ window-panes, and throws a halo round David&rsquo;s head that he well deserves
+ and little suspects. In my foreground sit Meg and Jean and Elspeth playing
+ with thrums and wearing the fruit of David&rsquo;s loom in their gingham frocks.
+ David himself sits on his wooden bench behind the maze of cords that form
+ the &lsquo;loom harness.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The snows of seventy winters powder his hair and beard. His spectacles are
+ often pushed back on his kindly brow, but no glass could wholly obscure
+ the clear integrity and steadfast purity of his eyes; and as for his
+ smile, I have not the art to paint that! It holds in solution so many
+ sweet though humble virtues of patience, temperance, self-denial, honest
+ endeavour, that my brush falters in the attempt to fix the radiant whole
+ upon the canvas. Fashions come and go, modern improvements transform the
+ arts and trades, manual skill gives way to the cunning of the machine, but
+ old David Robb, after more than fifty years of toil, still sits at his
+ hand-loom and weaves his winceys for the Pettybaw bairnies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ David has small book-learning, so he tells me; and indeed he had need to
+ tell me, for I should never have discovered it myself,&mdash;one misses it
+ so little when the larger things are all present!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A certain summer visitor in Pettybaw (a compatriot of ours, by the way)
+ bought a quantity of David&rsquo;s orange-coloured wincey, and finding that it
+ wore like iron, wished to order more. She used the word &lsquo;reproduce&rsquo; in her
+ telegram, as there was one pattern and one colour she specially liked.
+ Perhaps the context was not illuminating, but at any rate the word
+ &lsquo;reproduce&rsquo; was not in David&rsquo;s vocabulary, and putting back his spectacles
+ he told me his difficulty in deciphering the exact meaning of his
+ fine-lady patron. He called at the Free Kirk manse,&mdash;the meenister
+ was no&rsquo; at hame; then to the library,&mdash;it was closed; then to the
+ Estaiblished manse,&mdash;the meenister was awa&rsquo;. At last he obtained a
+ glance at the schoolmaster&rsquo;s dictionary, and turning to &lsquo;reproduce&rsquo; found
+ that it meant &lsquo;nought but mak&rsquo; ower again&rsquo;;&mdash;and with an amused smile
+ at the bedevilments of language he turned once more to his loom and I to
+ my canvas.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Notwithstanding his unfamiliarity with &lsquo;langnebbit&rsquo; words, David has
+ absorbed a deal of wisdom in his quiet life; though so far as I can see,
+ his only books have been the green tree outside his window, a glimpse of
+ the distant ocean, and the toil of his hands.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But I sometimes question if as many scholars are not made as marred in
+ this wise, for&mdash;to the seeing eye&mdash;the waving leaf and the far
+ sea, the daily task, one&rsquo;s own heart-beats, and one&rsquo;s neighbour&rsquo;s,&mdash;these
+ teach us in good time to interpret Nature&rsquo;s secrets, and man&rsquo;s, and God&rsquo;s
+ as well.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XX. A Fifeshire tea-party.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The knights they harpit in their bow&rsquo;r,
+ The ladyes sew&rsquo;d and sang;
+ The mirth that was in that chamber
+ Through all the place it rang.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Rose the Red and White Lily.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Tea at Rowardennan Castle is an impressive and a delightful function. It
+ is served by a ministerial-looking butler and a just-ready-to-be-ordained
+ footman. They both look as if they had been nourished on the Thirty-Nine
+ Articles, but they know their business as well as if they had been trained
+ in heathen lands,&mdash;which is saying a good deal, for everybody knows
+ that heathen servants wait upon one with idolatrous solicitude. However,
+ from the quality of the cheering beverage itself down to the thickness of
+ the cream, the thinness of the china, the crispness of the toast, and the
+ plummyness of the cake, tea at Rowardennan Castle is perfect in every
+ detail.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The scones are of unusual lightness, also. I should think they would
+ scarcely weigh more than four, perhaps even five, to a pound; but I am
+ aware that the casual traveller, who eats only at hotels, and never has
+ the privilege of entering feudal castles, will be slow to believe this
+ estimate, particularly just after breakfast.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina always describes a Scotch scone as an aspiring but unsuccessful
+ soda-biscuit of the New England sort. Stevenson, in writing of that dense
+ black substance, inimical to life, called Scotch bun, says that the
+ patriotism that leads a Scotsman to eat it will hardly desert him in any
+ emergency. Salemina thinks that the scone should be bracketed with the bun
+ (in description, of course, never in the human stomach), and says that, as
+ a matter of fact, &lsquo;th&rsquo; unconquer&rsquo;d Scot&rsquo; of old was not only clad in a
+ shirt of mail, but well fortified within when he went forth to warfare
+ after a meal of oatmeal and scones. She insists that the spear which would
+ pierce the shirt of mail would be turned aside and blunted by the ordinary
+ scone of commerce; but what signifies the opinion of a woman who eats
+ sugar on her porridge?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Considering the air of liberal hospitality that hangs about the castle
+ tea-table, I wonder that our friends do not oftener avail themselves of
+ its privileges and allow us to do so; but on all dark, foggy, or inclement
+ days, or whenever they tire of the sands, everybody persists in taking tea
+ at Bide-a-Wee Cottage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We buy our tea of the Pettybaw grocer, some of our cups are cracked, the
+ teapot is of earthenware, Miss Grieve disapproves of all social
+ tea-fuddles, and shows it plainly when she brings in the tray, and the
+ room is so small that some of us overflow into the hall or the garden; it
+ matters not; there is some fatal charm in our humble hospitality. At four
+ o&rsquo;clock one of us is obliged to be, like Sister Anne, on the housetop; and
+ if company approaches, she must descend and speed to the plumber&rsquo;s for six
+ pennyworth extra of cream. In most well-ordered British households Miss
+ Grieve would be requested to do this speeding, but both her mind and her
+ body move too slowly for such domestic crises; and then, too, her temper
+ has to be kept as unruffled as possible, so that she will cut the bread
+ and butter thin. This she generally does if she has not been &lsquo;fair
+ doun-hadden wi&rsquo; wark&rsquo;; but the washing of her own spinster cup and plate,
+ together with the incident sighs and groans, occupies her till so late an
+ hour that she is not always dressed for callers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Willie and I were reading The Lady of the Lake the other day, in the back
+ garden, surrounded by the verdant leafage of our own kale-yard. It is a
+ pretty spot when the sun shines, a trifle domestic in its air, perhaps,
+ but restful: Miss Grieve&rsquo;s dish-towels and aprons drying on the currant
+ bushes, the cat playing with a mutton-bone or a fish-tail on the grass,
+ and the little birds perching on the rims of our wash-boiler and
+ water-buckets. It can be reached only by way of the kitchen, which
+ somewhat lessens its value as a pleasure-ground or a rustic retreat, but
+ Willie and I retire there now and then for a quiet chat.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On this particular occasion Willie was declaiming the exciting verses
+ where Fitz-James and Murdoch are crossing the stream
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;That joins Loch Katrine to Achray,&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ where the crazed Blanche of Devan first appears:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;All in the Trosachs&rsquo; glen was still,
+ Noontide was sleeping on the hill:
+ Sudden his guide whoop&rsquo;d loud and high&mdash;
+ &ldquo;Murdoch! was that a signal cry?&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It was indeed,&rdquo; said Francesca, appearing suddenly at an upper window
+ overhanging the garden. &ldquo;Pardon this intrusion, but the Castle people are
+ here,&rdquo; she continued in what is known as a stage whisper,&mdash;that is,
+ one that can be easily heard by a thousand persons,&mdash;&ldquo;the Castle
+ people and the ladies from Pettybaw House; and Mr. Macdonald is coming
+ down the loaning; but Calamity Jane is making her toilet in the kitchen,
+ and you cannot take Mr. Beresford through into the sitting-room at
+ present. She says this hoose has so few conveniences that it&rsquo;s &lsquo;fair
+ sickenin&rsquo;.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;How long will she be?&rdquo; queried Mr. Beresford anxiously, putting The Lady
+ of the Lake in his pocket, and pacing up and down between the rows of
+ cabbages.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;She has just begun. Whatever you do, don&rsquo;t unsettle her temper, for she
+ will have to prepare for eight to-day. I will send Mr. Macdonald and Miss
+ Macrae to the bakery for gingerbread, to gain time, and possibly I can
+ think of a way to rescue you. If I can&rsquo;t, are you tolerably comfortable?
+ Perhaps Miss Grieve won&rsquo;t mind Penelope, and she can come through the
+ kitchen any time and join us; but naturally you don&rsquo;t want to be
+ separated, that&rsquo;s the worst of being engaged. Of course I can lower your
+ tea in a tin bucket, and if it should rain I can throw out umbrellas.
+ Would you like your golf-caps, Pen? &lsquo;Won&rsquo;erful blest in weather ye are,
+ mam!&rsquo; The situation is not so bad as it might be,&rdquo; she added consolingly,
+ &ldquo;because in case Miss Grieve&rsquo;s toilet should last longer than usual, your
+ wedding need not be indefinitely postponed, for Mr. Macdonald can marry
+ you from this window.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here she disappeared, and we had scarcely time to take in the full humour
+ of the affair before Robin Anstruther&rsquo;s laughing eyes appeared over the
+ top of the high brick wall that protects our garden on three sides.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do not shoot,&rdquo; said he. &ldquo;I am not come to steal the fruit, but to succour
+ humanity in distress. Miss Monroe insisted that I should borrow the inn
+ ladder. She thought a rescue would be much more romantic than waiting for
+ Miss Grieve. Everybody is coming out to witness it, at least all your
+ guests,&mdash;there are no strangers present,&mdash;and Miss Monroe is
+ already collecting sixpence a head for the entertainment, to be given, she
+ says, for your dear Friar&rsquo;s sustenation fund.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He was now astride of the wall, and speedily lifted the ladder to our
+ side, where it leaned comfortably against the stout branches of the
+ draper&rsquo;s peach vine. Willie ran nimbly up the ladder and bestrode the
+ wall. I followed, first standing, and then decorously sitting down on the
+ top of it. Mr. Anstruther pulled up the ladder, and replaced it on the
+ side of liberty; then he descended, then Willie, and I last of all, amidst
+ the acclamations of the onlookers, a select company of six or eight
+ persons.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Miss Grieve formally entered the sitting-room bearing the tea-tray,
+ she was buskit braw in black stuff gown, clean apron, and fresh cap
+ trimmed with purple ribbons, under which her white locks were neatly
+ dressed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She deplored the coolness of the tea, but accounted for it to me in an
+ aside by the sickening quality of Mrs. Sinkler&rsquo;s coals and Mr. Macbrose&rsquo;s
+ kindling-wood, to say nothing of the insulting draft in the draper&rsquo;s
+ range. When she left the room, I suppose she was unable to explain the
+ peals of laughter that rang through our circumscribed halls.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Lady Ardmore insists that the rescue was the most unique episode she ever
+ witnessed, and says that she never understood America until she made our
+ acquaintance. I persuaded her that this was fallacious reasoning; that
+ while she might understand us by knowing America, she could not possibly
+ reverse this mental operation and be sure of the result. The ladies of
+ Pettybaw House said that the occurrence was as Fifish as anything that
+ ever happened in Fife. The kingdom of Fife is noted, it seems, for its
+ &lsquo;doocots [dovecots] and its daft lairds,&rsquo; and to be eccentric and Fifish
+ are one and the same thing. Thereupon Francesca told Mr. Macdonald a story
+ she heard in Edinburgh, to the effect that when a certain committee or
+ council was quarrelling as to which of certain Fifeshire towns should be
+ the seat of a projected lunatic asylum, a new resident arose and suggested
+ that the building of a wall round the kingdom of Fife would solve the
+ difficulty, settle all disputes, and give sufficient room for the lunatics
+ to exercise properly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the sort of tale that a native can tell with a genial chuckle, but
+ it comes with poor grace from an American lady sojourning in Fife.
+ Francesca does not mind this, however, as she is at present avenging fresh
+ insults to her own beloved country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXI. International bickering.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ With mimic din of stroke and ward
+ The broadsword upon target jarr&rsquo;d.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Lady of the Lake.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Robin Anstruther was telling stories at the tea-table.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I got acquainted with an American girl in rather a queer sort of way,&rdquo; he
+ said, between cups. &ldquo;It was in London, on the Duke of York&rsquo;s wedding-day.
+ I&rsquo;m rather a tall chap, you see, and in the crowd somebody touched me on
+ the shoulder, and a plaintive voice behind me said, &lsquo;You&rsquo;re such a big
+ man, and I am so little, will you please help me to save my life? My
+ mother was separated from me in the crowd somewhere as we were trying to
+ reach the Berkeley, and I don&rsquo;t know what to do.&rsquo; I was a trifle
+ nonplussed, but I did the best I could. She was a tiny thing, in a
+ marvellous frock and a flowery hat and a silver girdle and chatelaine. In
+ another minute she spied a second man, an officer, a full head taller than
+ I am, broad shoulders, splendidly put up altogether. Bless me! if she
+ didn&rsquo;t turn to him and say, &lsquo;Oh, you&rsquo;re so nice and big, you&rsquo;re even
+ bigger than this other gentleman, and I need you both in this dreadful
+ crush. If you&rsquo;ll be good enough to stand on either side of me, I shall be
+ awfully obliged.&rsquo; We exchanged amused glances of embarrassment over her
+ blonde head, but there was no resisting the irresistible. She was a small
+ person, but she had the soul of a general, and we obeyed orders. We stood
+ guard over her little ladyship for nearly an hour, and I must say she
+ entertained us thoroughly, for she was as clever as she was pretty. Then I
+ got her a seat in one of the windows of my club, while the other man,
+ armed with a full description, went out to hunt up the mother; and, by
+ Jove! he found her, too. She would have her mother, and her mother she
+ had. They were awfully jolly people; they came to luncheon in my chambers
+ at the Albany afterwards, and we grew to be great friends.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I dare say she was an English girl masquerading,&rdquo; I remarked facetiously.
+ &ldquo;What made you think her an American?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, her general appearance and accent, I suppose.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Probably she didn&rsquo;t say Barkley,&rdquo; observed Francesca cuttingly; &ldquo;she
+ would have been sure to commit that sort of solecism.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why, don&rsquo;t you say Barkley in the States?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Certainly not; we never call them the States, and with us c-l-e-r-k
+ spells clerk, and B-e-r-k Berk.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;How very odd!&rdquo; remarked Mr. Anstruther.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No odder than you saying Bark, and not half as odd as your calling it
+ Albany,&rdquo; I interpolated, to help Francesca.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Quite so,&rdquo; said Mr. Anstruther; &ldquo;but how do you say Albany in America?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope and I always call it Allbany,&rdquo; responded Francesca
+ nonsensically, &ldquo;but Salemina, who has been much in England, always calls
+ it Albany.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This anecdote was the signal for Miss Ardmore to remark (apropos of her
+ own discrimination and the American accent) that hearing a lady ask for a
+ certain med&rsquo;cine in a chemist&rsquo;s shop, she noted the intonation, and
+ inquired of the chemist, when the fair stranger had retired, if she were
+ not an American. &ldquo;And she was!&rdquo; exclaimed the Honourable Elizabeth
+ triumphantly. &ldquo;And what makes it the more curious, she had been over here
+ twenty years, and of course, spoke English quite properly.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In avenging fancied insults, it is certainly more just to heap punishment
+ on the head of the real offender than upon his neighbour, and it is a
+ trifle difficult to decide why Francesca should chastise Mr. Macdonald for
+ the good-humoured sins of Mr. Anstruther and Miss Ardmore; yet she does
+ so, nevertheless.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The history of these chastisements she recounts in the nightly half-hour
+ which she spends with me when I am endeavouring to compose myself for
+ sleep. Francesca is fluent at all times, but once seated on the foot of my
+ bed she becomes eloquent!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It all began with his saying&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is her perennial introduction, and I respond as invariably, &ldquo;What
+ began?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, to-day&rsquo;s argument with Mr. Macdonald. It was a literary quarrel this
+ afternoon.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Fools rush in&mdash;&lsquo;&rdquo; I quoted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There is a good deal of nonsense in that old saw,&rdquo; she interrupted; &ldquo;at
+ all events, the most foolish fools I have ever known stayed still and
+ didn&rsquo;t do anything. Rushing shows a certain movement of the mind, even if
+ it is in the wrong direction. However, Mr. Macdonald is both opinionated
+ and dogmatic, but his worst enemy could never call him a fool.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I didn&rsquo;t allude to Mr. Macdonald.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t you suppose I know to whom you alluded, dear? Is not your style so
+ simple, frank, and direct that a wayfaring girl can read it and not err
+ therein? No, I am not sitting on your feet, and it is not time to go to
+ sleep; I wonder you do not tire of making those futile protests. As a
+ matter of fact, we began this literary discussion yesterday morning, but
+ were interrupted; and knowing that it was sure to come up again, I
+ prepared for it with Salemina. She furnished the ammunition, so to speak,
+ and I fired the guns.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You always make so much noise with blank cartridges I wonder you ever
+ bother about real shot,&rdquo; I remarked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope, how can you abuse me when I am in trouble? Well, Mr. Macdonald
+ was prating, as usual, about the antiquity of Scotland and its aeons of
+ stirring history. I am so weary of the venerableness of this country. How
+ old will it have to be, I wonder, before it gets used to it? If it&rsquo;s the
+ province of art to conceal art, it ought to be the province of age to
+ conceal age, and it generally is. &lsquo;Everything doesn&rsquo;t improve with years,&rsquo;
+ I observed sententiously.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;For instance?&rsquo; he inquired.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course you know how that question affected me! How I do dislike an
+ appetite for specific details! It is simply paralysing to a good
+ conversation. Do you remember that silly game in which some one points a
+ stick at you and says, &lsquo;Beast, bird, or fish,&mdash;BEAST!&rsquo; and you have
+ to name one while he counts ten? If a beast has been requested, you can
+ think of one fish and two birds, but no beast. If he says &lsquo;FISH,&rsquo; all the
+ beasts in the universe stalk through your memory, but not one finny,
+ sealy, swimming thing! Well, that is the effect of &lsquo;For instance?&rsquo; on my
+ faculties. So I stumbled a bit, and succeeded in recalling, as objects
+ which do not improve with age, mushrooms, women, and chickens, and he was
+ obliged to agree with me, which nearly killed him. Then I said that
+ although America is so fresh and blooming that people persist in calling
+ it young, it is much older than it appears to the superficial eye. There
+ is no real propriety in dating us as a nation from the Declaration of
+ Independence in 1776, I said, nor even from the landing of the Pilgrims in
+ 1620; nor, for that matter, from Columbus&rsquo;s discovery in 1492. It&rsquo;s my
+ opinion, I asserted, that some of us had been there thousands of years
+ before, but nobody had had the sense to discover us. We couldn&rsquo;t discover
+ ourselves,&mdash;though if we could have foreseen how the sere and yellow
+ nations of the earth would taunt us with youth and inexperience, we should
+ have had to do something desperate!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That theory must have been very convincing to the philosophic Scots
+ mind,&rdquo; I interjected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It was; even Mr. Macdonald thought it ingenious. &lsquo;And so,&rsquo; I went on, &lsquo;we
+ were alive and awake and beginning to make history when you Scots were
+ only bare-legged savages roaming over the hills and stealing cattle. It
+ was a very bad habit of yours, that cattle-stealing, and one which you
+ kept up too long.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;No worse a sin than your stealing land from the Indians,&rsquo; he said.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Oh yes,&rsquo; I answered, &lsquo;because it was a smaller one! Yours was a vice,
+ and ours a sin; or I mean it would have been a sin had we done it; but in
+ reality we didn&rsquo;t steal land; we just TOOK it, reserving plenty for the
+ Indians to play about on; and for every hunting-ground we took away we
+ gave them in exchange a serviceable plough, or a school, or a nice Indian
+ agent, or something. That was land-grabbing, if you like, but it is a
+ habit you Britishers have still, while we gave it up when we reached years
+ of discretion.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;This is very illuminating,&rdquo; I interrupted, now thoroughly wide awake,
+ &ldquo;but it isn&rsquo;t my idea of a literary discussion.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am coming to that,&rdquo; she responded. &ldquo;It was just at this point that,
+ goaded into secret fury by my innocent speech about cattle-stealing, he
+ began to belittle American literature, the poetry especially. Of course he
+ waxed eloquent about the royal line of poet-kings that had made his
+ country famous, and said the people who could claim Shakespeare had reason
+ to be the proudest nation on earth. &lsquo;Doubtless,&rsquo; I said. &lsquo;But do you mean
+ to say that Scotland has any nearer claim upon Shakespeare than we have? I
+ do not now allude to the fact that in the large sense he is the common
+ property of the English-speaking world&rsquo; (Salemina told me to say that),
+ &lsquo;but Shakespeare died in 1616, and the union of Scotland with England
+ didn&rsquo;t come about till 1707, nearly a century afterwards. You really
+ haven&rsquo;t anything to do with him! But as for us, we didn&rsquo;t leave England
+ until 1620, when Shakespeare had been perfectly dead four years. We took
+ very good care not to come away too soon. Chaucer and Spenser were dead
+ too, and we had nothing to stay for!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was obliged to relax here and give vent to a burst of merriment at
+ Francesca&rsquo;s absurdities.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I could see that he had never regarded the matter in that light before,&rdquo;
+ she went on gaily, encouraged by my laughter, &ldquo;but he braced himself for
+ the conflict, and said &lsquo;I wonder that you didn&rsquo;t stay a little longer
+ while you were about it. Milton and Ben Jonson were still alive; Bacon&rsquo;s
+ Novum Organum was just coming out; and in thirty or forty years you could
+ have had L&rsquo;Allegro, Il Penseroso and Paradise Lost; Newton&rsquo;s Principia,
+ too, in 1687. Perhaps these were all too serious and heavy for your
+ national taste; still one sometimes likes to claim things one cannot fully
+ appreciate. And then, too, if you had once begun to stay, waiting for the
+ great things to happen and the great books to be written, you would never
+ have gone, for there would still have been Browning, Tennyson, and
+ Swinburne to delay you.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;If we couldn&rsquo;t stay to see out your great bards, we certainly couldn&rsquo;t
+ afford to remain and welcome your minor ones,&rsquo; I answered frigidly; &lsquo;but
+ we wanted to be well out of the way before England united with Scotland,
+ knowing that if we were uncomfortable as things were, it would be a good
+ deal worse after the Union; and we had to come home anyway, and start our
+ own poets. Emerson, Whittier, Longfellow, Holmes, and Lowell had to be
+ born.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;I suppose they had to be if you had set your mind on it,&rsquo; he said,
+ &lsquo;though personally I could have spared one or two on that roll of honour.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Very probably,&rsquo; I remarked, as thoroughly angry now as he intended I
+ should be. &lsquo;We cannot expect you to appreciate all the American poets;
+ indeed, you cannot appreciate all of your own, for the same nation doesn&rsquo;t
+ always furnish the writers and the readers. Take your precious Browning,
+ for example! There are hundreds of Browning Clubs in America, and I never
+ heard of a single one in Scotland.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;No,&rsquo; he retorted, &lsquo;I dare say; but there is a good deal in belonging to
+ a people who can understand him without clubs!&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;O Francesca!&rdquo; I exclaimed, sitting bolt upright among my pillows. &ldquo;How
+ could you give him that chance! How COULD you! What did you say?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I said nothing,&rdquo; she replied mysteriously. &ldquo;I did something much more to
+ the point,&mdash;I cried!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;CRIED?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes, cried; not rivers and freshets of woe, but small brooks and
+ streamlets of helpless mortification.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What did he do then?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why do you say &lsquo;do&rsquo;?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, I mean &lsquo;say,&rsquo; of course. Don&rsquo;t trifle; go on. What did he say then?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There are some things too dreadful to describe,&rdquo; she answered, and
+ wrapping her Italian blanket majestically about her she retired to her own
+ apartment, shooting one enigmatical glance at me as she closed the door.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ That glance puzzled me for some time after she left the room. It was as
+ expressive and interesting a beam as ever darted from a woman&rsquo;s eye. The
+ combination of elements involved in it, if an abstract thing may be
+ conceived as existing in component parts, was something like this:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One-half, mystery. One-eighth, triumph. One-eighth, amusement.
+ One-sixteenth, pride. One-sixteenth, shame. One-sixteenth, desire to
+ confess. One-sixteenth, determination to conceal.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And all these delicate, complex emotions played together in a circle of
+ arching eyebrow, curving lip, and tremulous chin,&mdash;played together,
+ mingling and melting into one another like fire and snow; bewildering,
+ mystifying, enchanting the beholder!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If Ronald Macdonald did&mdash;I am a woman, but, for one, I can hardly
+ blame him!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXII. Francesca entertains the green-eyed monster.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;O has he chosen a bonny bride,
+ An&rsquo; has he clean forgotten me?&rdquo;
+ An&rsquo; sighing said that gay ladye,
+ &ldquo;I would I were in my ain countrie!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Lord Beichan.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It rained in torrents; Salemina was darning stockings in the inglenook at
+ Bide-a-Wee Cottage, and I was reading her a Scotch letter which Francesca
+ and I had concocted the evening before. I proposed sending the document to
+ certain chosen spirits in our own country, who were pleased to be
+ facetious concerning our devotion to Scotland. It contained, in sooth,
+ little that was new, and still less that was true, for we were confined to
+ a very small vocabulary which we were obliged to supplement now and then
+ by a dip into Burns and Allan Ramsay.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here is the letter:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Bide-a-Wee Cottage, Pettybaw, East Neuk o&rsquo; Fife.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To my trusty fieres,
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mony&rsquo;s the time I hae ettled to send ye a screed, but there was aye
+ something that cam&rsquo; i&rsquo; the gait. It wisna that I couldna be fashed, for
+ aften hae I thocht o&rsquo; ye and my hairt has been wi&rsquo; ye mony&rsquo;s the day.
+ There&rsquo;s no&rsquo; muckle fowk frae Ameriky hereawa; they&rsquo;re a&rsquo; jist Fife bodies,
+ and a lass canna get her tongue roun&rsquo; their thrapple-taxin&rsquo; words ava&rsquo;, so
+ it&rsquo;s like I may een drap a&rsquo; the sweetness o&rsquo; my good mither-tongue.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &lsquo;Tis a dulefu&rsquo; nicht, and an awfu&rsquo; blash is ragin&rsquo; wi&rsquo;oot. Fanny&rsquo;s awa&rsquo; at
+ the gowff rinnin&rsquo; aboot wi&rsquo; a bag o&rsquo; sticks after a wee bit ba&rsquo;, and Sally
+ and I are hame by oor lane. Laith will the lassie be to weet her bonny
+ shoon, but lang ere the play&rsquo;ll be ower she&rsquo;ll wat her hat aboon. A gust
+ o&rsquo; win&rsquo; is skirlin&rsquo; the noo, and as we luik ower the faem, the haar is
+ risin&rsquo;, weetin&rsquo; the green swaird wi&rsquo; misty shoo&rsquo;rs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Yestreen was a calm simmer gloamin&rsquo;, sae sweet an&rsquo; bonnie that when the
+ sun was sinkin&rsquo; doon ower Pettybaw Sands we daundered ower the muir. As we
+ cam&rsquo; through the scented birks, we saw a trottin&rsquo; burnie wimplin&rsquo; &lsquo;neath
+ the white-blossomed slaes and hirplin&rsquo; doon the hillside; an&rsquo; while a
+ herd-laddie lilted ower the fernie brae, a cushat cooed leesomely doon i&rsquo;
+ the dale. We pit aff oor shoon, sae blithe were we, kilted oor coats a
+ little aboon the knee, and paidilt i&rsquo; the burn, gettin&rsquo; geyan weet the
+ while. Then Sally pu&rsquo;d the gowans wat wi&rsquo; dew an&rsquo; twined her bree wi&rsquo;
+ tasselled broom, while I had a wee crackie wi&rsquo; Tibby Buchan, the flesher&rsquo;s
+ dochter frae Auld Reekie. Tibby&rsquo;s nae giglet gawky like the lave, ye ken,&mdash;she&rsquo;s
+ a sonsie maid, as sweet as ony hinny pear, wi&rsquo; her twa pawky een an&rsquo; her
+ cockernony snooded up fu&rsquo; sleek.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We were unco gleg to win hame when a&rsquo; this was dune, an&rsquo; after steekin&rsquo;
+ the door, to sit an&rsquo; birsle oor taes at the bit blaze. Mickle thocht we o&rsquo;
+ the gentles ayont the sea, an&rsquo; sair grat we for a&rsquo; frien&rsquo;s we kent lang
+ syne in oor ain countree.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Late at nicht, Fanny, the bonny gypsy, cam&rsquo; ben the hoose an&rsquo; tirled at
+ the pin of oor bigly bower door, speirin&rsquo; for baps and bannocks.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Hoots, lassie!&rdquo; cried oot Sally, &ldquo;th&rsquo; auld carline i&rsquo; the kitchen is i&rsquo;
+ her box-bed, an&rsquo; weel aneuch ye ken is lang syne cuddled doon.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oo ay!&rdquo; said Fanny, strikin&rsquo; her curly pow, &ldquo;then fetch me parritch, an&rsquo;
+ dinna be lang wi&rsquo; them, for I&rsquo;ve lickit a Pettybaw lad at the gowff, an&rsquo; I
+ could eat twa guid jints o&rsquo; beef gin I had them!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Losh girl,&rdquo; said I, &ldquo;gie ower makin&rsquo; sic a mickle din. Ye ken verra weel
+ ye&rsquo;ll get nae parritch the nicht. I&rsquo;ll rin and fetch ye a &lsquo;piece&rsquo; to stap
+ awee the soun&rsquo;.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Blethers an&rsquo; havers!&rdquo; cried Fanny, but she blinkit bonnily the while, an&rsquo;
+ when the tea was weel maskit, she smoored her wrath an&rsquo; stappit her mooth
+ wi&rsquo; a bit o&rsquo; oaten cake. We aye keep that i&rsquo; the hoose, for th&rsquo; auld
+ servant-body is geyan bad at the cookin&rsquo;, an&rsquo; she&rsquo;s sae dour an&rsquo; dowie
+ that to speak but till her we daur hardly mint.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In sic divairsions pass the lang simmer days in braid Scotland, but I
+ canna write mair the nicht, for &lsquo;tis the wee sma&rsquo; hours ayont the twal&rsquo;.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Like th&rsquo; auld wife&rsquo;s parrot, &lsquo;we dinna speak muckle, but we&rsquo;re deevils to
+ think,&rsquo; an&rsquo; we&rsquo;re aye thinkin&rsquo; aboot ye. An&rsquo; noo I maun leave ye to mak&rsquo;
+ what ye can oot o&rsquo; this, for I jalouse it&rsquo;ll pass ye to untaukle the whole
+ hypothec.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Fair fa&rsquo; ye a&rsquo;! Lang may yer lum reek, an&rsquo; may prosperity attend oor clan!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Aye your gude frien&rsquo;,
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Penelope Hamilton.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It may be very fine,&rdquo; remarked Salemina judicially, &ldquo;though I cannot
+ understand more than half of it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That would also be true of Browning,&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t you love to see
+ great ideas looming through a mist of words?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The words are misty enough in this case,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;and I do wish you
+ would not tell the world that I paddle in the burn, or &lsquo;twine my bree wi&rsquo;
+ tasselled broom.&rsquo; I&rsquo;m too old to be made ridiculous.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nobody will believe it,&rdquo; said Francesca, appearing in the doorway. &ldquo;They
+ will know it is only Penelope&rsquo;s havering,&rdquo; and with this undeserved scoff,
+ she took her mashie and went golfing&mdash;not on the links, on this
+ occasion, but in our microscopic sitting-room. It is twelve feet square,
+ and holds a tiny piano, desk, centre-table, sofa, and chairs, but the spot
+ between the fire-place and the table is Francesca&rsquo;s favourite
+ &lsquo;putting-green.&rsquo; She wishes to become more deadly in the matter of
+ approaches, and thinks her tee-shots weak; so these two deficiencies she
+ is trying to make good by home practice in inclement weather. She turns a
+ tumbler on its side on the floor, and &lsquo;putts&rsquo; the ball into it, or at it,
+ as the case may be, from the opposite side of the room. It is excellent
+ discipline, and as the tumblers are inexpensive the breakage really does
+ not matter. Whenever Miss Grieve hears the shivering of glass, she
+ murmurs, not without reason, &lsquo;It is not for the knowing what they will be
+ doing next.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope, has it ever occurred to you that Elizabeth Ardmore is seriously
+ interested in Mr. Macdonald?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina propounded this question to me with the same innocence that a
+ babe would display in placing a lighted fuse beside a dynamite bomb.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca naturally heard the remark,&mdash;although it was addressed to
+ me,&mdash;pricked up her ears, and missed the tumbler by several feet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was a simple inquiry, but as I look back upon it from the safe ground
+ of subsequent knowledge I perceive that it had a certain amount of
+ influence upon Francesca&rsquo;s history. The suggestion would have carried no
+ weight with me for two reasons. In the first place, Salemina is
+ far-sighted. If objects are located at some distance from her, she sees
+ them clearly; but if they are under her very nose she overlooks them
+ altogether, unless they are sufficiently fragrant or audible to address
+ other senses. This physical peculiarity she carries over into her mental
+ processes. Her impression of the Disruption movement, for example, would
+ be lively and distinct, but her perception of a contemporary lover&rsquo;s
+ quarrel (particularly if it were fought at her own apron-strings) would be
+ singularly vague. If she suggested, therefore, that Elizabeth Ardmore was
+ interested in Mr. Beresford, who is the rightful captive of my bow and
+ spear, I should be perfectly calm.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ My second reason for comfortable indifference is that frequently in
+ novels, and always in plays, the heroine is instigated to violent jealousy
+ by insinuations of this sort, usually conveyed by the villain of the
+ piece, male or female. I have seen this happen so often in the modern
+ drama that it has long since ceased to be convincing; but though Francesca
+ has witnessed scores of plays and read hundreds of novels, it did not
+ apparently strike her as a theatrical or literary suggestion that Lady
+ Ardmore&rsquo;s daughter should be in love with Mr. Macdonald. The effect of the
+ new point of view was most salutary, on the whole. She had come to think
+ herself the only prominent figure in the Reverend Ronald&rsquo;s landscape, and
+ anything more impertinent than her tone with him (unless it is his with
+ her) I certainly never heard. This criticism, however, relates only to
+ their public performances, and I have long suspected that their private
+ conversations are of a kindlier character. When it occurred to her that he
+ might simply be sharpening his mental sword on her steel, but that his
+ heart had at last wandered into a more genial climate than she had ever
+ provided for it, she softened unconsciously; the Scotsman and the American
+ receded into a truer perspective, and the man and the woman approached
+ each other with dangerous nearness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What shall we do if Francesca and Mr. Macdonald really fall in love with
+ each other?&rdquo; asked Salemina, when Francesca had gone into the hall to try
+ long drives. (There is a good deal of excitement in this, as Miss Grieve
+ has to cross the passage on her way from the kitchen to the china-closet,
+ and thus often serves as a reluctant &lsquo;hazard&rsquo; or &lsquo;bunker.&rsquo;)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you mean what should we have done?&rdquo; I queried.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nonsense, don&rsquo;t be captious! It can&rsquo;t be too late yet. They have known
+ each other only a little over two months; when would you have had me
+ interfere, pray?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It depends upon what you expect to accomplish. If you wish to stop the
+ marriage, interfere in a fortnight or so; if you wish to prevent an
+ engagement, speak&mdash;well, say to-morrow; if, however, you didn&rsquo;t wish
+ them to fall in love with each other, you should have kept one of them
+ away from Lady Baird&rsquo;s dinner.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I could have waited a trifle longer than that,&rdquo; argued Salemina, &ldquo;for you
+ remember how badly they got on at first.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I remember you thought so,&rdquo; I responded dryly; &ldquo;but I believe Mr.
+ Macdonald has been interested in Francesca from the outset, partly because
+ her beauty and vivacity attracted him, partly because he could keep her in
+ order only by putting his whole mind upon her. On his side, he has
+ succeeded in piquing her into thinking of him continually, though solely,
+ as she fancies, for the purpose of crossing swords with him. If they ever
+ drop their weapons for an instant, and allow the din of warfare to subside
+ so that they can listen to their own heart-beats, they will discover that
+ they love each other to distraction.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ye ken mair than&rsquo;s in the catecheesm,&rdquo; remarked Salemina, yawning a
+ little as she put away her darning-ball. &ldquo;It is pathetic to see you waste
+ your time painting mediocre pictures, when as a lecturer upon love you
+ could instruct your thousands.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The thousands would never satisfy me,&rdquo; I retorted, &ldquo;so long as you
+ remained uninstructed, for in your single person you would so swell the
+ sum of human ignorance on that subject that my teaching would be for ever
+ in vain.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Very clever indeed! Well, what will Mr. Monroe say to me when I return to
+ New York without his daughter, or with his son-in-law?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He has never denied Francesca anything in her life; why should he draw
+ the line at a Scotsman? I am much more concerned about Mr. Macdonald&rsquo;s
+ congregation.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am not anxious about that,&rdquo; said Salemina loyally. &ldquo;Francesca would be
+ the life of an Inchcaldy parish.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I dare say,&rdquo; I observed, &ldquo;but she might be the death of the pastor.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am ashamed of you, Penelope; or I should be if you meant what you say.
+ She can make the people love her if she tries; when did she ever fail at
+ that? But with Mr. Macdonald&rsquo;s talent, to say nothing of his family
+ connections, he is sure to get a church in Edinburgh in a few years if he
+ wishes. Undoubtedly, it would not be a great match in a money sense. I
+ suppose he has a manse and three or four hundred pounds a year.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That sum would do nicely for cabs.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Penelope, you are flippant!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t mean it, dear; it&rsquo;s only for fun; and it would be so absurd if we
+ should leave Francesca over here as the presiding genius of an Inchcaldy
+ parsonage&mdash;I mean a manse!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It isn&rsquo;t as if she were penniless,&rdquo; continued Salemina; &ldquo;she has fortune
+ enough to assure her own independence, and not enough to threaten his&mdash;the
+ ideal amount. I hardly think the good Lord&rsquo;s first intention was to make
+ her a minister&rsquo;s wife, but He knows very well that Love is a master
+ architect. Francesca is full of beautiful possibilities if Mr. Macdonald
+ is the man to bring them out, and I am inclined to think he is.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He has brought out impishness so far,&rdquo; I objected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The impishness is transitory,&rdquo; she returned, &ldquo;and I am speaking of
+ permanent qualities. His is the stronger and more serious nature,
+ Francesca&rsquo;s the sweeter and more flexible. He will be the oak-tree, and
+ she will be the sunshine playing in the branches.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Salemina, dear,&rdquo; I said penitently, kissing her grey hair, &ldquo;I apologise:
+ you are not absolutely ignorant about Love, after all, when you call him
+ the master architect; and that is very lovely and very true about the
+ oak-tree and the sunshine.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXIII. Ballad revels at Rowardennan.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Love, I maun gang to Edinbrugh,
+ Love, I maun gang an&rsquo; leave thee!&rdquo;
+ She sighed right sair, an&rsquo; said nae mair
+ But &ldquo;O gin I were wi&rsquo; ye!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Andrew Lammie.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Jean Dalziel came to visit us a week ago, and has put new life into our
+ little circle. I suppose it was playing &lsquo;Sir Patrick Spens&rsquo; that set us
+ thinking about it, for one warm, idle day when we were all in the Glen we
+ began a series of ballad-revels, in which each of us assumed a favourite
+ character. The choice induced so much argument and disagreement that Mr.
+ Beresford was at last appointed head of the clan; and having announced
+ himself formally as The Mackintosh, he was placed on the summit of a
+ hastily arranged pyramidal cairn. He was given an ash wand and a
+ rowan-tree sword; and then, according to ancient custom, his pedigree and
+ the exploits of his ancestors were recounted, and he was exhorted to
+ emulate their example. Now it seems that a Highland chief of the olden
+ time, being as absolute in his patriarchal authority as any prince, had a
+ corresponding number of officers attached to his person. He had a
+ bodyguard, who fought around him in battle, and independent of this he had
+ a staff of officers who accompanied him wherever he went. These our chief
+ proceeded to appoint as follows:&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Henchman, Ronald Macdonald; bard, Penelope Hamilton; spokesman or fool,
+ Robin Anstruther; sword-bearer, Francesca Monroe; piper, Salemina; piper&rsquo;s
+ attendant, Elizabeth Ardmore; baggage gillie, Jean Dalziel; running
+ footman, Ralph; bridle gillie, Jamie; ford gillie, Miss Grieve. The ford
+ gillie carries the chief across fords only, and there are no fords in the
+ vicinity; so Mr. Beresford, not liking to leave a member of our household
+ out of office, thought this the best post for Calamity Jane.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With The Mackintosh on his pyramidal cairn matters went very much better,
+ and at Jamie&rsquo;s instigation we began to hold rehearsals for certain
+ festivities at Rowardennan; for as Jamie&rsquo;s birthday fell on the eve of the
+ Queen&rsquo;s Jubilee, there was to be a gay party at the Castle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All this occurred days ago, and yesterday evening the ballad-revels came
+ off, and Rowardennan was a scene of great pageant and splendour. Lady
+ Ardmore, dressed as the Lady of Inverleith, received the guests, and there
+ were all manner of tableaux, and ballads in costume, and pantomimes, and a
+ grand march by the clan, in which we appeared in our chosen roles.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Salemina was Lady Maisry&mdash;she whom all the lords of the north
+ countrie came wooing.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;But a&rsquo; that they could say to her,
+ Her answer still was &ldquo;Na.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ And again:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;O haud your tongues, young men,&rdquo; she said,
+ &ldquo;And think nae mair on me!&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Beresford was Lord Beichan, and I was Shusy Pye
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Lord Beichan was a Christian born,
+ And such resolved to live and dee,
+ So he was ta&rsquo;en by a savage Moor,
+ Who treated him right cruellie.
+
+ The Moor he had an only daughter,
+ The damsel&rsquo;s name was Shusy Pye;
+ And ilka day as she took the air
+ Lord Beichan&rsquo;s prison she pass&rsquo;d by.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Elizabeth Ardmore was Leezie Lindsay, who kilted her coats o&rsquo; green satin
+ to the knee and was aff to the Hielands so expeditiously when her lover
+ declared himself to be &lsquo;Lord Ronald Macdonald, a chieftain of high
+ degree.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca was Mary Ambree.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;When captaines couragious, whom death cold not daunte,
+ Did march to the siege of the citty of Gaunt,
+ They mustred their souldiers by two and by three,
+ And the foremost in battle was Mary Ambree.
+
+ When the brave sergeant-major was slaine in her sight
+ Who was her true lover, her joy and delight,
+ Because he was slaine most treacherouslie,
+ Then vow&rsquo;d to avenge him Mary Ambree.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Brenda Macrae from Pettybaw House was Fairly Fair; Jamie, Sir Patrick
+ Spens; Ralph, King Alexander of Dunfermline; Mr. Anstruther, Bonnie
+ Glenlogie, &lsquo;the flower o&rsquo; them a&rsquo;;&rsquo; Mr. Macdonald and Miss Dalziel, Young
+ Hynde Horn and the king&rsquo;s daughter Jean respectively.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Oh, it&rsquo;s Hynde Horn fair, and it&rsquo;s Hynde Horn free;
+ Oh, where were you born, and in what countrie?&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;In a far distant countrie I was born;
+ But of home and friends I am quite forlorn.&rdquo;
+
+ Oh, it&rsquo;s seven long years he served the king,
+ But wages from him he ne&rsquo;er got a thing;
+ Oh, it&rsquo;s seven long years he served, I ween,
+ And all for love of the king&rsquo;s daughter Jean.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ It is not to be supposed that all this went off without any of the
+ difficulties and heart-burnings that are incident to things dramatic. When
+ Elizabeth Ardmore chose to be Leezie Lindsay, she asked me to sing the
+ ballad behind the scenes. Mr. Beresford naturally thought that Mr.
+ Macdonald would take the opposite part in the tableau, inasmuch as the
+ hero bears his name; but he positively declined to play Lord Ronald
+ Macdonald, and said it was altogether too personal.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Anstruther was rather disagreeable at the beginning, and upbraided
+ Miss Dalziel for offering to be the king&rsquo;s daughter Jean to Mr.
+ Macdonald&rsquo;s Hynde Horn, when she knew very well he wanted her for Ladye
+ Jeanie in Glenlogie. (She had meantime confided to me that nothing could
+ induce her to appear in Glenlogie; it was far too personal.)
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Macdonald offended Francesca by sending her his cast-off gown and
+ begging her to be Sir Patrick Spens; and she was still more gloomy (so I
+ imagined) because he had not proffered his six feet of manly beauty for
+ the part of the captain in Mary Ambree, when the only other person to take
+ it was Jamie&rsquo;s tutor. He is an Oxford man and a delightful person, but
+ very bow-legged; added to that, by the time the rehearsals had ended she
+ had been obliged to beg him to love some one more worthy than herself, and
+ did not wish to appear in the same tableau with him, feeling that it was
+ much too personal.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When the eventful hour came, yesterday, Willie and I were the only actors
+ really willing to take lovers&rsquo; parts, save Jamie and Ralph, who were but
+ too anxious to play all the characters, whatever their age, sex, colour,
+ or relations. But the guests knew nothing of these trivial disagreements,
+ and at ten o&rsquo;clock last night it would have been difficult to match
+ Rowardennan Castle for a scene of beauty and revelry. Everything went
+ merrily till we came to Hynde Horn, the concluding tableau, and the most
+ effective and elaborate one on the programme. At the very last moment,
+ when the opening scene was nearly ready, Jean Dalziel fell down a secret
+ staircase that led from the tapestry chamber into Lady Ardmore&rsquo;s boudoir,
+ where the rest of us were dressing. It was a short flight of steps, but as
+ she held a candle, and was carrying her costume, she fell awkwardly,
+ spraining her wrist and ankle. Finding that she was not maimed for life,
+ Lady Ardmore turned with comical and unsympathetic haste to Francesca, so
+ completely do amateur theatricals dry the milk of kindness in the human
+ breast.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Put on these clothes at once,&rdquo; she said imperiously, knowing nothing of
+ the volcanoes beneath the surface. &ldquo;Hynde Horn is already on the stage,
+ and somebody must be Jean. Take care of Miss Dalziel, girls, and ring for
+ more maids. Helene, come and dress Miss Monroe; put on her slippers while
+ I lace her gown; run and fetch more jewels,&mdash;more still,&mdash;she
+ can carry off any number; not any rouge, Helene&mdash;she has too much
+ colour now; pull the frock more off the shoulders&mdash;it&rsquo;s a pity to
+ cover an inch of them; pile her hair higher&mdash;here, take my diamond
+ tiara, child; hurry, Helene, fetch the silver cup and the cake&mdash;no,
+ they are on the stage; take her train, Helene. Miss Hamilton, run and open
+ the doors ahead of them, please. I won&rsquo;t go down for this tableau. I&rsquo;ll
+ put Miss Dalziel right, and then I&rsquo;ll slip into the drawing-room, to be
+ ready for the guests when they come in.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We hurried breathlessly through an interminable series of rooms and
+ corridors. I gave the signal to Mr. Beresford, who was nervously waiting
+ for it in the wings, and the curtain went up on Hynde Horn disguised as
+ the auld beggar man at the king&rsquo;s gate. Mr. Beresford was reading the
+ ballad, and we took up the tableaux at the point where Hynde Horn has come
+ from a far countrie to see why the diamonds in the ring given him by his
+ own true love have grown pale and wan. He hears that the king&rsquo;s daughter
+ Jean has been married to a knight these nine days past.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;But unto him a wife the bride winna be,
+ For love of Hynde Horn, far over the sea.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ He therefore borrows the old beggar&rsquo;s garments and hobbles to the king&rsquo;s
+ palace, where he petitions the porter for a cup of wine and a bit of cake
+ to be handed him by the fair bride herself.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Good porter, I pray, for Saints Peter and Paul,
+ And for sake of the Saviour who died for us all,
+ For one cup of wine and one bit of bread,
+ To an auld man with travel and hunger bestead.
+
+ And ask the fair bride, for the sake of Hynde Horn,
+ To hand them to me so sadly forlorn.&rdquo;
+ Then the porter for pity the message convey&rsquo;d,
+ And told the fair bride all the beggar man said.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The curtain went up again. The porter, moved to pity, has gone to give the
+ message to his lady. Hynde Horn is watching the staircase at the rear of
+ the stage, his heart in his eyes. The tapestries that hide it are drawn,
+ and there stands the king&rsquo;s daughter, who tripped down the stair&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;And in her fair hands did lovingly bear
+ A cup of red wine, and a farle of cake,
+ To give the old man for loved Hynde Horn&rsquo;s sake.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The hero of the ballad, who had not seen his true love for seven long
+ years, could not have been more amazed at the change in her than was
+ Ronald Macdonald at the sight of the flushed, excited, almost tearful
+ king&rsquo;s daughter on the staircase, Lady Ardmore&rsquo;s diamonds flashing from
+ her crimson satin gown, Lady Ardmore&rsquo;s rubies glowing on her white arms
+ and throat; not Miss Dalziel, as had been arranged, but Francesca,
+ rebellious, reluctant, embarrassed, angrily beautiful and beautifully
+ angry!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the next scene Hynde Horn has drained the cup and dropped the ring into
+ it.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Oh, found you that ring by sea or on land,
+ Or got you that ring off a dead man&rsquo;s hand?&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;Oh, I found not that ring by sea or on land,
+ But I got that ring from a fair lady&rsquo;s hand.
+
+ As a pledge of true love she gave it to me,
+ Full seven years ago as I sail&rsquo;d o&rsquo;er the sea;
+ But now that the diamonds are changed in their hue,
+ I know that my love has to me proved untrue.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ I never saw a prettier picture of sweet, tremulous womanhood, a more
+ enchanting, breathing image of fidelity, than Francesca looked as Mr.
+ Beresford read:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;Oh, I will cast off my gay costly gown,
+ And follow thee on from town unto town;
+ And I will take the gold kaims from my hair,
+ And follow my true love for evermair.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Whereupon Hynde Horn lets his beggar weeds fall, and shines there the
+ foremost and noblest of all the king&rsquo;s companie as he says:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;You need not cast off your gay costly gown,
+ To follow me on from town unto town;
+ You need not take the gold kaims from your hair,
+ For Hynde Horn has gold enough and to spare.&rdquo;
+
+ Then the bridegrooms were changed, and the lady re-wed
+ To Hynde Horn thus come back, like one from the dead.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ There is no doubt that this tableau gained the success of the evening, and
+ the participants in it should have modestly and gratefully received the
+ choruses of congratulation that were ready to be offered during the supper
+ and dance that followed. Instead of that, what happened? Francesca drove
+ home with Miss Dalziel before the quadrille d&rsquo;honneur, and when Willie
+ bade me good night at the gate in the loaning, he said, &ldquo;I shall not be
+ early to-morrow, dear. I am going to see Macdonald off.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Off!&rdquo; I exclaimed. &ldquo;Where is he going?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Only to Edinburgh and London, to stay till the last of next week.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But we may have left Pettybaw by that time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course; that is probably what he has in mind. But let me tell you
+ this, Penelope: Macdonald is fathoms deep in love with Francesca, and if
+ she trifles with him she shall know what I think of her!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And let me tell you this, sir: Francesca is fathoms deep in love with
+ Ronald Macdonald, little as you suspect it, and if he trifles with her he
+ shall know what I think of him!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXIV. Old songs and modern instances.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;He set her on a coal-black steed,
+ Himself lap on behind her,
+ An&rsquo; he&rsquo;s awa&rsquo; to the Hieland hills
+ Whare her frien&rsquo;s they canna find her.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Rob Roy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The occupants of Bide-a-Wee Cottage awoke in anything but a Jubilee
+ humour, next day. Willie had intended to come at nine, but of course did
+ not appear. Francesca took her breakfast in bed, and came listlessly into
+ the sitting-room at ten o&rsquo;clock, looking like a ghost. Jean&rsquo;s ankle was
+ much better&mdash;the sprain proved to be not even a strain&mdash;but her
+ wrist was painful. It was drizzling, too, and we had promised Miss Ardmore
+ and Miss Macrae to aid with the last Jubilee decorations, the distribution
+ of medals at the church, and the children&rsquo;s games and tea on the links in
+ the afternoon.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We have determined not to desert our beloved Pettybaw for the metropolis
+ on this great day, but to celebrate it with the dear fowk o&rsquo; Fife who had
+ grown to be a part of our lives.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Bide-a-Wee Cottage does not occupy an imposing position in the landscape,
+ and the choice of art fabrics at the Pettybaw draper&rsquo;s is small, but the
+ moment it should stop raining we were intending to carry out a dazzling
+ scheme of decoration that would proclaim our affectionate respect for the
+ &lsquo;little lady in black&rsquo; on her Diamond Jubilee. But would it stop raining?&mdash;that
+ was the question. The draper wasna certain that so licht a shoo&rsquo;r could
+ richtly be called rain. The village weans were yearning for the hour to
+ arrive when they might sit on the wet golf-course and have tea;
+ manifestly, therefore, it could not be a bad day for Scotland; but if it
+ should grow worse, what would become of our mammoth subscription bonfire
+ on Pettybaw Law&mdash;the bonfire that Brenda Macrae was to light, as the
+ lady of the manor?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were no deputations to request the honour of Miss Macrae&rsquo;s
+ distinguished services on this occasion; that is not the way the
+ self-respecting villager comports himself in Fifeshire. The chairman of
+ the local committee, a respectable gardener, called upon Miss Macrae at
+ Pettybaw House, and said, &ldquo;I&rsquo;m sent to tell ye ye&rsquo;re to have the pleasure
+ an&rsquo; the honour of lichtin&rsquo; the bonfire the nicht! Ay, it&rsquo;s a grand chance
+ ye&rsquo;re havin&rsquo;, miss, ye&rsquo;ll remember it as long as ye live, I&rsquo;m thinkin&rsquo;!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I complimented this rugged soul on his decoration of the triumphal
+ arch under which the school-children were to pass, I said, &ldquo;I think if her
+ Majesty could see it, she would be pleased with our village to-day,
+ James.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Ay, ye&rsquo;re richt, miss,&rdquo; he replied complacently. &ldquo;She&rsquo;d see that
+ Inchcawdy canna compeer wi&rsquo; us; we&rsquo;ve patronised her weel in Pettybaw!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Truly, as Stevenson says, &lsquo;he who goes fishing among the Scots peasantry
+ with condescension for a bait will have an empty basket by evening.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At eleven o&rsquo;clock a boy arrived at Bide-a-Wee with an interesting-looking
+ package, which I promptly opened. That dear foolish lover of mine (whose
+ foolishness is one of the most adorable things about him) makes me only
+ two visits a day, and is therefore constrained to send me some reminder of
+ himself in the intervening hours, or minutes&mdash;a book, a flower, or a
+ note. Uncovering the pretty box, I found a long, slender&mdash;something&mdash;of
+ sparkling silver.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What is it?&rdquo; I exclaimed, holding it up. &ldquo;It is too long and not wide
+ enough for a paper-knife, although it would be famous for cutting
+ magazines. Is it a baton? Where did Willie find it, and what can it be?
+ There is something engraved on one side, something that looks like birds
+ on a twig,&mdash;yes, three little birds; and see the lovely cairngorm set
+ in the end! Oh, it has words cut in it: &lsquo;To Jean: From Hynde Horn&rsquo;&mdash;Goodness
+ me! I&rsquo;ve opened Miss Dalziel&rsquo;s package!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca made a sudden swooping motion, and caught box, cover, and
+ contents in her arms.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is mine! I know it is mine!&rdquo; she cried. &ldquo;You really ought not to claim
+ everything that is sent to the house, Penelope&mdash;as if nobody had any
+ friends or presents but you!&rdquo; and she rushed upstairs like a whirlwind.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I examined the outside wrapper, lying on the floor, and found, to my
+ chagrin, that it did bear Miss Monroe&rsquo;s name, somewhat blotted by the
+ rain; but if the box were addressed to her, why was the silver thing
+ inscribed to Miss Dalziel? Well, Francesca would explain the mystery
+ within the hour, unless she had become a changed being.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Fifteen minutes passed. Salemina was making Jubilee sandwiches at Pettybaw
+ House, Miss Dalziel was asleep in her room, I was being devoured slowly by
+ curiosity, when Francesca came down without a word, walked out of the
+ front door, went up to the main street, and entered the village
+ post-office without so much as a backward glance. She was a changed being,
+ then! I might as well be living in a Gaboriau novel, I thought, and went
+ up into my little painting and writing room to address a programme of the
+ Pettybaw celebration to Lady Baird, watch for the glimpse of Willie coming
+ down the loaning, and see if I could discover where Francesca went from
+ the post-office.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Sitting down by my desk, I could find neither my wax nor my silver
+ candlestick, my scissors nor my ball of twine. Plainly Francesca had been
+ on one of her borrowing tours; and she had left an additional trace of
+ herself&mdash;if one were needed&mdash;in a book of old Scottish ballads,
+ open at &lsquo;Hynde Horn.&rsquo; I glanced at it idly while I was waiting for her to
+ return. I was not familiar with the opening verses, and these were the
+ first lines that met my eye:&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Oh, he gave to his love a silver wand,
+ Her sceptre of rule over fair Scotland;
+ With three singing laverocks set thereon
+ For to mind her of him when he was gone.
+
+ And his love gave to him a gay gold ring
+ With three shining diamonds set therein;
+ Oh, his love gave to him this gay gold ring,
+ Of virtue and value above all thing.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ A light dawned upon me! The silver mystery, then, was intended for a wand&mdash;and
+ a very pretty way of making love to an American girl, too, to call it a
+ &lsquo;sceptre of rule over fair Scotland&rsquo;; and the three birds were three
+ singing laverocks &lsquo;to mind her of him when he was gone&rsquo;!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the real Hynde Horn in the dear old ballad had a truelove who was not
+ captious and capricious and cold like Francesca. His love gave him a gay
+ gold ring&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Of virtue and value above all thing.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Yet stay: behind the ballad book flung heedlessly on my desk was&mdash;what
+ should it be but the little morocco case, empty now, in which our
+ Francesca keeps her dead mother&rsquo;s engagement ring&mdash;the mother who
+ died when she was a wee child. Truly a very pretty modern ballad to be
+ sung in these unromantic, degenerate days!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Francesca came in at the door behind me, saw her secret reflected in my
+ tell-tale face, saw the sympathetic moisture in my eyes, and, flinging
+ herself into my willing arms, burst into tears.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;O Pen, dear, dear Pen, I am so miserable and so happy; so afraid that he
+ won&rsquo;t come back, so frightened for fear that he will! I sent him away
+ because there were so many lions in the path, and I didn&rsquo;t know how to
+ slay them. I thought of my f-father; I thought of my c-c-country. I didn&rsquo;t
+ want to live with him in Scotland, I knew that I couldn&rsquo;t live without him
+ in America, and there I was! I didn&rsquo;t think I was s-suited to a minister,
+ and I am not; but oh! this p-particular minister is so s-suited to me!&rdquo;
+ and she threw herself on the sofa and buried her head in the cushions.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She was so absurd even in her grief that I had hard work to keep from
+ smiling.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Let us talk about the lions,&rdquo; I said soothingly. &ldquo;But when did the
+ trouble begin? When did he speak to you?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;After the tableau last night; but of course there had been other&mdash;other&mdash;times&mdash;and
+ things.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Of course. Well?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;He had told me a week before that he should go away for a while, that it
+ made him too wretched to stay here just now; and I suppose that was when
+ he got the silver wand ready for me. It was meant for the Jean of the
+ poem, you know. Of course he would not put my own name on a gift like
+ that.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You don&rsquo;t think he had it made for Jean Dalziel in the first place?&rdquo;&mdash;I
+ asked this, thinking she needed some sort of tonic in her relaxed
+ condition.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You know him better than that, Penelope! I am ashamed of you! We had read
+ Hynde Horn together ages before Jean Dalziel came; but I imagine, when we
+ came to acting the lines, he thought it would be better to have some other
+ king&rsquo;s daughter; that is, that it would be less personal. And I never,
+ never would have been in the tableau, if I had dared refuse Lady Ardmore,
+ or could have explained; but I had no time to think. And then, naturally,
+ he thought by me being there as the king&rsquo;s daughter that&mdash;that&mdash;the
+ lions were slain, you know; instead of which they were roaring so that I
+ could hardly hear the orchestra.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Francesca, look me in the eye! Do&mdash;you&mdash;love him?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Love him? I adore him!&rdquo; she exclaimed in good clear decisive English, as
+ she rose impetuously and paced up and down in front of the sofa. &ldquo;But in
+ the first place there is the difference in nationality.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have no patience with you. One would think he was a Turk, an Esquimau,
+ or a cannibal. He is white, he speaks English, and he believes in the
+ Christian religion. The idea of calling such a man a foreigner!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, it didn&rsquo;t prevent me from loving him,&rdquo; she confessed, &ldquo;but I thought
+ at first it would be unpatriotic to marry him.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Did you think Columbia could not spare you even as a rare specimen to be
+ used for exhibition purposes?&rdquo; I asked wickedly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You know I am not so conceited as that! No,&rdquo; she continued ingenuously,
+ &ldquo;I feared that if I accepted him it would look, over here, as if the
+ home-supply of husbands were of inferior quality; and then we had such
+ disagreeable discussions at the beginning, I simply could not bear to
+ leave my nice new free country, and ally myself with his aeons of tiresome
+ history. But it came to me in the night, a week ago, that after all I
+ should hate a man who didn&rsquo;t love his Fatherland; and in the illumination
+ of that new idea Ronald&rsquo;s character assumed a different outline in my
+ mind. How could he love America when he had never seen it? How could I
+ convince him that American women are the most charming in the world in any
+ better way than by letting him live under the same roof with a good
+ example? How could I expect him to let me love my country best unless I
+ permitted him to love his best?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You needn&rsquo;t offer so many apologies for your infatuation, my dear,&rdquo; I
+ answered dryly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am not apologising for it!&rdquo; she exclaimed impulsively. &ldquo;Oh, if you
+ could only keep it to yourself, I should like to tell you how I trust and
+ admire and reverence Ronald Macdonald, but of course you will repeat
+ everything to Willie Beresford within the hour! You think he has gone on
+ and on loving me against his better judgment. You believe he has fought
+ against it because of my unfitness, but that I, poor, weak, trivial thing,
+ am not capable of deep feeling and that I shall never appreciate the
+ sacrifices he makes in choosing me! Very well, then, I tell you plainly
+ that if I had to live in a damp manse the rest of my life, drink tea and
+ eat scones for breakfast, and&mdash;and buy my hats of the Inchcaldy
+ milliner, I should still glory in the possibility of being Ronald
+ Macdonald&rsquo;s wife&mdash;a possibility hourly growing more uncertain, I am
+ sorry to say!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And the extreme aversion with which you began,&rdquo; I asked&mdash;&ldquo;what has
+ become of that, and when did it begin to turn in the opposite direction?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Aversion!&rdquo; she cried, with convincing and unblushing candour. &ldquo;That
+ aversion was a cover, clapped on to keep my self-respect warm. I abused
+ him a good deal, it is true, because it was so delightful to hear you and
+ Salemina take his part. Sometimes I trembled for fear you would agree with
+ me, but you never did. The more I criticised him, the louder you sang his
+ praises&mdash;it was lovely! The fact is&mdash;we might as well throw
+ light upon the whole matter, and then never allude to it again; and if you
+ tell Willie Beresford, you shall never visit my manse, nor see me preside
+ at my mothers&rsquo; meetings, nor hear me address the infant class in the
+ Sunday-school&mdash;the fact is, I liked him from the beginning at Lady
+ Baird&rsquo;s dinner. I liked the bow he made when he offered me his arm (I wish
+ it had been his hand); I liked the top of his head when it was bowed; I
+ liked his arm when I took it; I liked the height of his shoulder when I
+ stood beside it; I liked the way he put me in my chair (that showed
+ chivalry), and unfolded his napkin (that was neat and business-like), and
+ pushed aside all his wine-glasses but one (that was temperate); I liked
+ the side view of his nose, the shape of his collar, the cleanness of his
+ shave, the manliness of his tone&mdash;oh, I liked him altogether, you
+ must know how it is, Penelope&mdash;the goodness and strength and
+ simplicity that radiated from him. And when he said, within the first
+ half-hour, that international alliances presented even more difficulties
+ to the imagination than others, I felt, to my confusion, a distinct sense
+ of disappointment. Even while I was quarrelling with him, I said to
+ myself, &lsquo;Poor darling, you cannot have him even if you should want him, so
+ don&rsquo;t look at him much!&rsquo;&mdash;But I did look at him; and what is worse,
+ he looked at me; and what is worse yet, he curled himself so tightly round
+ my heart that if he takes himself away, I shall be cold the rest of my
+ life!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Then you are really sure of your love this time, and you have never
+ advised him to wed somebody more worthy than yourself?&rdquo; I asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not I!&rdquo; she replied. &ldquo;I wouldn&rsquo;t put such an idea into his head for
+ worlds! He might adopt it!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXV. A treaty between nations.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Pale and wan was she when Glenlogie gaed ben,
+ But red rosy grew she whene&rsquo;er he sat doun.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ Glenlogie.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just here the front door banged, and a manly step sounded on the stair.
+ Francesca sat up straight in a big chair, and dried her eyes hastily with
+ her poor little wet ball of a handkerchief; for she knows that Willie is a
+ privileged visitor in my studio. The door opened (it was ajar) and Ronald
+ Macdonald strode into the room. I hope I may never have the same sense of
+ nothingness again! To be young, pleasing, gifted, and to be regarded no
+ more than a fly upon the wall, is death to one&rsquo;s self-respect.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He dropped on one knee beside Francesca, and took her two hands in his
+ without removing his gaze from her speaking face. She burned, but did not
+ flinch under the ordeal. The colour leaped into her cheeks. Love swam in
+ her tears, but was not drowned there; it was too strong.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Did you mean it?&rdquo; he asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ She looked at him, trembling, as she said, &ldquo;I meant every word, and far,
+ far more. I meant all that a girl can say to a man when she loves him, and
+ wants to be everything she is capable of being to him, to his work, to his
+ people, and to his&mdash;country.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Even this brief colloquy had been embarrassing, but I knew that worse was
+ still to come and could not be delayed much longer, so I left the room
+ hastily and with no attempt at apology&mdash;not that they minded my
+ presence in the least, or observed my exit, though I was obliged to leap
+ over Mr. Macdonald&rsquo;s feet in passing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I found Mr. Beresford sitting on the stairs, in the lower hall.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Willie, you angel, you idol, where did you find him?&rdquo; I exclaimed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;When I went into the post-office, an hour ago,&rdquo; he replied, &ldquo;I met
+ Francesca. She asked me for Macdonald&rsquo;s Edinburgh address, saying she had
+ something that belonged to him and wished to send it after him. I offered
+ to address the package and see that it reached him as expeditiously as
+ possible. &lsquo;That is what I wish,&rdquo; she said, with elaborate formality. &lsquo;This
+ is something I have just discovered, something he needs very much,
+ something he does not know he has left behind.&rsquo; I did not think it best to
+ tell her at the moment that Macdonald had not yet deserted Inchcaldy.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Willie, you have the quickest intelligence and the most exquisite insight
+ of any man I ever met!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But the fact was that I had been to see him off, and found him detained
+ by the sudden illness of one of his elders. I rode over again to take him
+ the little parcel. Of course I don&rsquo;t know what it contained; by its size
+ and shape I should judge it might be a thimble, or a collar-button, or a
+ sixpence; but, at all events, he must have needed the thing, for he
+ certainly did not let the grass grow under his feet after he received it!
+ Let us go into the sitting-room until they come down,&mdash;as they will
+ have to, poor wretches, sooner or later; I know that I am always being
+ brought down against my will. Salemina wants your advice about the number
+ of her Majesty&rsquo;s portraits to be hung on the front of the cottage, and the
+ number of candles to be placed in each window.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was a half-hour later when Mr. Macdonald came into the room, and,
+ walking directly up to Salemina, kissed her hand respectfully.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Miss Salemina,&rdquo; he said, with evident emotion, &ldquo;I want to borrow one of
+ your national jewels for my Queen&rsquo;s crown.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And what will our President say to lose a jewel from his crown?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good republican rulers do not wear coronets, as a matter of principle,&rdquo;
+ he argued; &ldquo;but in truth I fear I am not thinking of her Majesty&mdash;God
+ bless her! This gem is not entirely for state occasions.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;&ldquo;I would wear it in my bosom,
+ Lest my jewel I should tine.&rdquo;&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ It is the crowning of my own life rather than that of the British Empire
+ that engages my present thought. Will you intercede for me with
+ Francesca&rsquo;s father?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And this is the end of all your international bickering?&rdquo; Salemina asked
+ teasingly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; he answered; &ldquo;we have buried the hatchet, signed articles of
+ agreement, made treaties of international comity. Francesca stays over
+ here as a kind of missionary to Scotland, so she says, or as a feminine
+ diplomat; she wishes to be on hand to enforce the Monroe Doctrine
+ properly, in case her government&rsquo;s accredited ambassadors relax in the
+ performance of their duty.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Salemina!&rdquo; called a laughing voice outside the door. &ldquo;I am won&rsquo;erful
+ lifted up. You will be a prood woman the day, for I am now Estaiblished!&rdquo;
+ and Francesca, clad in Miss Grieve&rsquo;s Sunday bonnet, shawl, and black
+ cotton gloves, entered, and curtsied demurely to the floor. She held, as
+ corroborative detail, a life of John Knox in her hand, and anything more
+ incongruous than her sparkling eyes and mutinous mouth under the
+ melancholy head-gear can hardly be imagined.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am now Estaiblished,&rdquo; she repeated. &ldquo;Div ye ken the new asseestant frae
+ Inchcawdy pairish? I&rsquo;m the mon&rsquo; (a second deep curtsy here). &ldquo;I trust,
+ leddies, that ye&rsquo;ll mak&rsquo; the maist o&rsquo; your releegious preevileges, an&rsquo;
+ that ye&rsquo;ll be constant at the kurruk.&mdash;Have you given papa&rsquo;s consent,
+ Salemina? And isn&rsquo;t it dreadful that he is Scotch?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Isn&rsquo;t it dreadful that she is not?&rdquo; asked Mr. Macdonald. &ldquo;Yet to my mind
+ no woman in Scotland is half as lovable as she!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;And no man in America begins to compare with him,&rdquo; Francesca confessed
+ sadly. &ldquo;Isn&rsquo;t it pitiful that out of the millions of our own countrypeople
+ we couldn&rsquo;t have found somebody that would do? What do you think now, Lord
+ Ronald Macdonald, of these dangerous international alliances?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You never understood that speech of mine,&rdquo; he replied, with prompt
+ mendacity. &ldquo;When I said that international marriages presented more
+ difficulties to the imagination than others, I was thinking of your
+ marriage and mine, and that, I knew from the first moment I saw you, would
+ be extremely difficult to arrange!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXVI. &lsquo;Scotland&rsquo;s burning! Look out!&rsquo;
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;And soon a score of fires, I ween,
+ From height, and hill, and cliff were seen;
+ . . . . . . .
+ Each after each they glanced to sight,
+ As stars arise upon the night,
+ They gleamed on many a dusky tarn,
+ Haunted by the lonely earn;
+ On many a cairn&rsquo;s grey pyramid,
+ Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid.&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Lay of the Last Minstrel.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The rain continued at intervals throughout the day, but as the afternoon
+ wore on the skies looked a trifle more hopeful. It would be &lsquo;saft,&rsquo; no
+ doubt, climbing the Law, but the bonfire must be lighted. Would Pettybaw
+ be behind London? Would Pettybaw desert the Queen in her hour of need? Not
+ though the rain were bursting the well-heads on Cawda; not though the
+ swollen mountain burns drowned us to the knee! So off we started as the
+ short midsummer night descended.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We were to climb the Law, wait for the signal from Cawda&rsquo;s lonely height,
+ and then fire Pettybaw&rsquo;s torch of loyalty to the little lady in black; not
+ a blaze flaming out war and rumours of war, as was the beacon-fire on the
+ old grey battlements of Edinburgh Castle in the days of yore, but a
+ message of peace and good-will. Pausing at a hut on the side of the great
+ green mountain, we looked north toward Helva, white-crested with a wreath
+ of vapour. (You need not look on your map of Scotland for Cawda and Helva,
+ for you will not find them any more than you will find Pettybaw and
+ Inchcaldy.) One by one the tops of the distant hills began to clear, and
+ with the glass we could discern the bonfire cairns up-built here and there
+ for Scotland&rsquo;s evening sacrifice of love and fealty. Cawda was still
+ veiled, and Cawda was to give the signal for all the smaller fires.
+ Pettybaw&rsquo;s, I suppose, was counted as a flash in the pan, but not one of
+ the hundred patriots climbing the mountain-side would have acknowledged
+ it; to us the good name of the kingdom of Fife and the glory of the
+ British Empire depended on Pettybaw fire. Some of us had misgivings, too,&mdash;misgivings
+ founded upon Miss Grieve&rsquo;s dismal prophecies. She had agreed to put nine
+ lighted candles in each of our cottage windows at ten o&rsquo;clock, but had
+ declined to go out of her kitchen to see a procession, hear a band, or
+ look at a bonfire. She had had a fair sickenin&rsquo; day, an amount of work too
+ wearifu&rsquo; for one person by her lane. She hoped that the bonfire wasna
+ built o&rsquo; Mrs. Sinkler&rsquo;s coals nor Mr. Macbrose&rsquo;s kindlings, nor soaked
+ with Mr. Cameron&rsquo;s paraffin; and she finished with the customary, but
+ irrelative and exasperating, allusion to the exceedingly nice family with
+ whom she had live in Glasgy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And still we toiled upward, keeping our doubts to ourselves. Jean was
+ limping bravely, supported by Robin Anstruther&rsquo;s arm. Mr. Macdonald was
+ ardently helping Francesca, who can climb like a chamois, but would
+ doubtless rather be assisted. Her gypsy face shone radiant out of her
+ black cloth hood, and Ronald&rsquo;s was no less luminous. I have never seen two
+ beings more love-daft. They comport themselves as if they had read the
+ manuscript of the tender passion, and were moving in exalted superiority
+ through a less favoured world,&mdash;a world waiting impatiently for the
+ first number of the story to come out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Still we climbed, and as we approached the Grey Lady (a curious rock very
+ near the summit) somebody proposed three cheers for the Queen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ How the children hurrahed,&mdash;for the infant heart is easily inflamed,&mdash;and
+ how their shrill Jubilee slogan pierced the mystery of the night, and went
+ rolling on from glen to glen to the Firth of Forth itself! Then there was
+ a shout from the rocketmen far out on the open moor,&mdash;&lsquo;Cawda&rsquo;s clear!
+ Cawda&rsquo;s clear!&rsquo; Back against a silver sky stood the signal pile, and
+ signal rockets flashed upward, to be answered from all the surrounding
+ hills.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now to light our own fire. One of the village committee solemnly took off
+ his hat and poured on oil. The great moment had come. Brenda Macrae
+ approached the sacred pile, and, tremulous from the effect of much
+ contradictory advice, applied the torch. Silence, thou Grieve and others,
+ false prophets of disaster! Who now could say that Pettybaw bonfire had
+ been badly built, or that its fifteen tons of coal and twenty cords of
+ wood had been unphilosophically heaped together?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The flames rushed toward the sky with ruddy blaze, shining with weird
+ effect against the black fir-trees and the blacker night. Three cheers
+ more! God save the Queen! May she reign over us, happy and glorious! And
+ we cheered lustily, too, you may be sure! It was more for the woman than
+ the monarch; it was for the blameless life, not for the splendid monarchy;
+ but there was everything hearty, and nothing alien in our tone, when we
+ sang &lsquo;God save the Queen&rsquo; with the rest of the Pettybaw villagers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The land darkened; the wind blew chill. Willie, Mr. Macdonald, and Mr.
+ Anstruther brought rugs, and found a sheltered nook for us where we might
+ still watch the scene. There we sat, looking at the plains below, with all
+ the village streets sparkling with light, with rockets shooting into the
+ air and falling to earth in golden rain, with red lights flickering on the
+ grey lakes, and with one beacon-fire after another gleaming from the
+ hilltops, till we could count more than fifty answering one another from
+ the wooded crests along the shore, some of them piercing the rifts of
+ low-lying clouds till they seemed to be burning in mid-heaven.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then one by one the distant fires faded, and as some of us still sat there
+ silently, far, far away in the grey east there was a faint flush of
+ carmine where the new dawn was kindling in secret. Underneath that violet
+ bank of cloud the sun was forging his beams of light. The pole-star paled.
+ The breath of the new morrow stole up out of the rosy grey. The wings of
+ the morning stirred and trembled; and in the darkness and chill and
+ mysterious awakening eyes looked into other eyes, hand sought hand, and
+ cheeks touched each other in mute caress.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ Chapter XXVII. Three magpies and a marriage.
+ </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;Sun, gallop down the westlin skies,
+ Gang soon to bed, an&rsquo; quickly rise;
+ O lash your steeds, post time away,
+ And haste about our bridal day!&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ The Gentle Shepherd.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Every noon, during this last week, as we have wended our way up the
+ loaning to the Pettybaw inn for our luncheon, we have passed three magpies
+ sitting together on the topmost rail of the fence. I am not prepared to
+ state that they were always the same magpies; I only know there were
+ always three of them. We have just discovered what they were about, and
+ great is the excitement in our little circle. I am to be married
+ to-morrow, and married in Pettybaw, and Miss Grieve says that in Scotland
+ the number of magpies one sees is of infinite significance: that one means
+ sorrow; two, mirth; three, a marriage; four, a birth, and we now recall as
+ corroborative detail that we saw one magpie, our first, on the afternoon
+ of her arrival.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Beresford has been cabled for, and must return to America at once on
+ important business. He persuaded me that the Atlantic is an ower large
+ body of water to roll between two lovers, and I agreed with all my heart.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A wedding was arranged, mostly by telegraph, in six hours. The Reverend
+ Ronald and the Friar are to perform the ceremony; a dear old painter
+ friend of mine, a London R.A., will come to give me away; Francesca will
+ be my maid of honour; Elizabeth Ardmore and Jean Dalziel, my bridemaidens;
+ Robin Anstruther, the best man; while Jamie and Ralph will be kilted
+ pages-in-waiting, and Lady Ardmore will give the breakfast at the Castle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Never was there such generosity, such hospitality, such wealth of
+ friendship! True, I have no wedding finery; but as I am perforce a
+ Scottish bride, I can be married in the white gown with the silver
+ thistles in which I went to Holyrood.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Anstruther took a night train to and from London to choose the
+ bouquets and bridal souvenirs. Lady Baird has sent the veil, and a
+ wonderful diamond thistle to pin it on,&mdash;a jewel fit for a princess!
+ With the dear Dominie&rsquo;s note promising to be an usher came an antique
+ silver casket filled with white heather. And as for the bride-cake, it is
+ one of Salemina&rsquo;s gifts, chosen as much in a spirit of fun as affection.
+ It is surely appropriate for this American wedding transplanted to
+ Scottish soil, and what should it be but a model, in fairy icing, of Sir
+ Walter&rsquo;s beautiful monument in Princes Street! Of course Francesca is full
+ of nonsensical quips about it, and says that the Edinburgh jail would have
+ been just as fine architecturally (it is, in truth, a building beautiful
+ enough to tempt an aesthete to crime), and a much more fitting symbol for
+ a wedding-cake, unless, indeed, she adds, Salemina intends her gift to be
+ a monument to my folly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Pettybaw kirk is trimmed with yellow broom from these dear Scottish banks
+ and braes; and waving their green fans and plumes up and down the aisle
+ where I shall walk a bride, are tall ferns and bracken from Crummylowe
+ Glen, where we played ballads.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I look back upon it, the life here has been all a ballad from first to
+ last. Like the elfin Tam Lin,
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &lsquo;The queen o&rsquo; fairies she caught me
+ In this green hill to dwell,&rsquo;
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ and these hasty nuptials are a fittingly romantic ending to the summer&rsquo;s
+ poetry. I am in a mood, were it necessary, to be &lsquo;ta&rsquo;en by the milk-white
+ hand,&rsquo; lifted to a pillion on a coal-black charger, and spirited &lsquo;o&rsquo;er the
+ border an&rsquo; awa&rsquo;&rsquo; by my dear Jock o&rsquo; Hazeldean. Unhappily, all is quite
+ regular and aboveboard; no &lsquo;lord o&rsquo; Langley dale&rsquo; contests the prize with
+ the bridegroom, but the marriage is at least unique and unconventional; no
+ one can rob me of that sweet consolation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So &lsquo;gallop down the westlin skies,&rsquo; dear Sun, but, prythee, gallop back
+ to-morrow! &lsquo;Gang soon to bed,&rsquo; an you will, but rise again betimes! Give
+ me Queen&rsquo;s weather, dear Sun, and shine a benison upon my wedding-morn!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /> [Exit Penelope into the ballad-land of maiden dreams.] <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1217 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>