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diff --git a/12115.txt b/12115.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9457f21 --- /dev/null +++ b/12115.txt @@ -0,0 +1,15687 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1., by J Lort Stokes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1. + With An Account Of The Coasts And Rivers Explored And Surveyed During + The Voyage Of H.M.S. Beagle, In The Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. + By Command Of The Lords Commissioners Of The Admiralty. Also A + Narrative Of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits To The Islands In The + Arafura Sea. + + +Author: J Lort Stokes + +Release Date: April 23, 2004 [EBook #12115] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AUSTRALIA, VOL. 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher + + + + +DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA; + +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE + +COASTS AND RIVERS + +EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE + +VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, + +IN THE YEARS 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. + +BY + +COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + +ALSO + +A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS + +TO THE + +ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. + +BY + +J. LORT STOKES, + +COMMANDER, R.N. + + +VOLUME 1. + + +LONDON: +T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. + +1846. + + + +TO +CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZROY, R.N. +THE FOLLOWING WORK +IS DEDICATED +AS A TRIBUTE TO HIS DISTINGUISHED MERIT, +AND AS A TOKEN OF HEARTFELT GRATITUDE AND RESPECT, +BY HIS OLD SHIPMATE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND, +THE AUTHOR. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +I cannot allow these volumes to go before the public, without expressing +my thanks to the following gentlemen for assistance, afforded to me in +the course of the composition of this work: To Captain Beaufort, R.N., +F.R.S., Hydrographer to the Admiralty, for his kindness in furnishing me +with some of the accompanying charts; to Sir John Richardson, F.R.S; J.E. +Gray, Esquire, F.R.S.; E. Doubleday, Esquire, F.L.S., and A. White, +Esquire, M.E.S., for their valuable contributions on Natural History, to +be found in the Appendix; to J. Gould, Esquire, F.R.S., for a list of +birds collected during the voyage of the Beagle; to Lieutenants Gore and +Fitzmaurice, for many of the sketches which illustrate the work; and to +B. Bynoe, Esquire, F.R.C.S., for several interesting papers which will be +found dispersed in the following pages. + +Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S., also merits my warmest thanks, for +the important addition to the work of his visits to the Islands in the +Arafura Sea. + +I have to explain, that when the name Australasia is used in the +following pages, it is intended to include Tasmania (Van Diemen's Land) +and all the islands in the vicinity of the Australian continent. + +All bearings and courses, unless it is specified to the contrary, are +magnetic, according to the variation during the period of the Beagle's +voyage. + +The longitudes are generally given from meridians in Australia, as I much +question whether any portion of the continent is accurately determined +with reference to Greenwich. Sydney, Port Essington, and Swan River, have +been the meridians selected; and the respective positions of those +places, within a minute of the truth, I consider to be as follows: + +Swan River (Scott's Jetty, Fremantle) 115 degrees 47 minutes East. + +Port Essington (Government house) 132 degrees 13 minutes East. + +Sydney (Fort Macquarie) 151 degrees 16 minutes East. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1. + + +CHAPTER 1.1. INTRODUCTION. + +Objects of the Voyage. +The Beagle commissioned. +Her former career. +Her first Commander. +Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer. +Officers and Crew. +Arrival at Plymouth. +Embark Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party. +Chronometric Departure. +Farewell glance at Plymouth. +Death of King William the Fourth. + + +CHAPTER 1.2. PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA. + +Sail from Plymouth. +The Eight Stones. +Peak of Tenerife. +Approach to Santa Cruz. +La Cueva de Los Guanches. +Trade with Mogadore. +Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas. +Reason to regret Mombas having been given up. +Sail from Tenerife. +Search for rocks near the equator. +Arrival at San Salvador. +Appearance of Bahia. +State of the Country. +Slave Trade. +And results of Slavery. +Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa. +Moral condition of the Negroes. +Middy's Grave. +Departure from Bahia. +Mr. "Very Well Dice". + + +CHAPTER 1.3. FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER. + +A gale. +Anchor in Simon's Bay. +H.M.S. Thalia. +Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa. +Proceedings of the Land Party. +Leave Simon's Bay. +An overloaded ship. +Heavy weather and wet decks. +Island of Amsterdam. +Its true longitude. +St. Paul's. +Water. +Westerly variation. +Rottnest Island. +Gage's Road. +Swan River Settlement. +Fremantle. +An inland lake. +Plans for the future. +Illness of Captain Wickham. +Tidal Phenomena. +Perth. +Approach to it. +Narrow escape of the first settlers. +The Darling Range. +Abundant Harvest. +Singular flight of strange birds. +Curious Cliff near Swan River. +Bald Head. +Mr. Darwin's Theory. +The Natives. +Miago. +Anecdotes of Natives. +Their Superstitions. +Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons. + + +CHAPTER 1.4. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. + +Sail from Gage's Road. +Search for a bank. +Currents and soundings. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef. +Indications of a squall. +Deep sea soundings. +Atmospheric Temperature. +Fish. +A squall. +Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay. +A heavy squall. +Driven from our anchorage. +Cape Villaret. +Anchor in Roebuck Bay. +Excursion on shore. +Visit from the Natives. +Mr. Bynoe's account of them. +A stranger among them. +Captain Grey's account of an almost white race in Australia. +Birds, Snakes, and Turtle. +Move the Ship. +Miago, and the Black Fellows. +The wicked men of the North. +Clouds of Magellan. +Face of the Country. +Natives. +Heat and Sickness. +Miago on shore. +Mr. Usborne wounded. +Failure in Roebuck Bay. +Native notions. + + +CHAPTER 1.5. FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. + +Departure from Roebuck Bay. +Appearance of the Country. +Progress to the northward. +Hills and Cliffs. +French Names and French Navigators. +Tasman, and his account of the Natives. +Hazeygaeys and Assagais. +His Authenticity as an Historian. +Description of the Natives. +Marks and mutilations. +Phrenological Development. +Moral condition. +Proas, Canoes, and Rafts. +Another squall. +Anchor in Beagle Bay. +Face of the Country. +Palm Trees. +Dew. +Hauling the Seine. +A meeting with Natives. +Eastern Salutation. +Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen. +Mutilation of the Hand. +Native smokes seen. +Move further to the North-East. +Point Emeriau. +Cape Leveque. +Point Swan. +Tide-races. +Search for water. +Encountered by Natives. +Return to the Ship. +The attempt renewed. +Conduct of the Natives. +Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark. +A successful haul. +More Natives. +Miago's Heroism. +The plague of Flies. +Dampier's description of it. +Native Habitations. +Underweigh. +Wind and weather. +Tidal Phenomenon. +Natural History. +Singular Kangaroo. +Bustard. +Cinnamon Kangaroo. +Quails. +Goanas and Lizards. +Ant Hills. +Fishing over the side. +A day in the Bush. +A flood of fire. +Soil and Productions. +White Ibis. +Curious Tree. +Rain water. +Geology of the Cliffs. +Weigh, and graze a Rock, or Touch and go. +The Twins. +Sunday Strait. +Roe's Group. +Miago and his friends. +A black dog. +A day of rest. +Native raft. +Captain King and the Bathurst. +A gale. +Point Cunningham. +Successful search for water. +Native estimation of this fluid. +Discovery of a Skeleton. +And its removal. +The grey Ibis. +Our parting legacy. + + +CHAPTER 1.6. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER. + +Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham. +Move the Ship. +Mosquitoes. +Southern View of King's Sound. +Singular vitreous Formation. +Move to the south of Point Cunningham. +Captain King's limit. +Termination of Cliffy Range. +Disaster Bay. +An Exploring Party leave in the boats. +The shore. +A freshwater lake. +Valentine Island. +Native Fire and Food. +A heavy squall. +The wild Oat. +Indications of a River. +Point Torment. +Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit. +Limits of its growth. +Another squall. +Water nearly fresh alongside. +The Fitzroy River. +Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl. +Ascent of the Fitzroy. +Appearance of the adjacent land. +Return on foot. +Perilous situation and providential escape. +Survey the western shore. +Return to the Ship. +Sporting, Quail and Emus. +Natives. +Ship moved to Point Torment. + + +CHAPTER 1.7. THE FITZROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TO +SWAN RIVER. + +Examination of the Fitzroy River. +Excursion into the interior. +Alarm of the Natives. +Ascent of the River. +Sufferings from Mosquitoes. +Red Sandstone. +Natives again surprised. +Appearance of the Country. +Impediments in the River. +Return of the boats. +An Alligator. +Stokes' Bay. +Narrow escape of an Officer. +Change of Landscape. +Pheasant-Cuckoos. +A new Vine. +Compass Hill. +Port Usborne. +Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. +Cone Bay. +Native Fires. +Whirlpool Channel. +Group of Islands. +Sterile aspect of the Coast. +Visited by a Native. +Bathurst Island. +Native Hut and Raft. +Return to Port Usborne. +Native Spears. +Cascade Bay. +Result of Explorations in King's Sound. +Interview with Natives. +Coral Reefs. +Discover Beagle Bank. +Arrival at Port George the Fourth. +Examination of Collier Bay in the boats. +Brecknock Harbour. +The Slate Islands. +Freshwater Cove. +An Eagle shot. +Its singular nest. +Rock Kangaroos. +A Conflagration. +Sandstone Ridges. +Doubtful Bay. +Mouth of the Glenelg. +Remarkable Tree. +Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour. +Return to the Ship. +Meet with Lieutenant Grey. +His sufferings and discoveries. +Visit the Encampment. +Timor Ponies. +Embarkation of Lieutenant Grey's Party. +Sail from Port George the Fourth. +Remarks on position of Tryal Rock. +Anecdotes of Miago. +Arrival at Swan River. +Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage. + + +CHAPTER 1.8. SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY. + +Miago's reception by his countrymen. +Whale Fishery. +Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers. +Neglected state of the Colony. +Test security of Owen's Anchorage. +Weather. +Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony. +Friendly meeting between different Tribes. +Native beggars. +Personal vanity of a Native. +Visit York. +Description of Country. +Site of York. +Scenery in its neighbourhood. +Disappointment experienced. +Sail from Swan River. +Hospitality of Colonists during our stay. +Aurora Australis. +Gale off Cape Leeuwen. +Stormy passage. +Ship on a lee shore. +South-west Cape of Tasmania. +Bruny Island Lighthouse. +Arrive at Hobart. +Mount Wellington. +Kangaroo Hunt. +White Kangaroo. +Civility from the Governor. +Travertine Limestone. +Leave Hobart. +Singular Current. +Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney. +Position of Lighthouse. +Entrance and first view of Port Jackson. +Scenery on passing up the Harbour. +Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington. +Apparent increase of Sydney. +Cause of Decline. +Expedition sails for Port Essington. +Illawarra. +Botany Bay. +La Perouse's Monument. +Aborigines. +Meet Captain King. +Appearance of Land near Sydney. + + +CHAPTER 1.9. BASS STRAIT. + +Leave Sydney. +Enter Bass Strait. +Island at Eastern entrance. +Wilson's Promontory. +Cape Shanck. +Enter Port Phillip. +Tide-race. +Commence Surveying Operations. +First Settlement. +Escaped Convict. +His residence with the Natives. +Sail for King Island. +Examine Coast to Cape Otway. +King Island. +Meet Sealers on New Year Islands. +Franklin Road. +Solitary Residence of Captain Smith. +Soil. +Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement. +Leafless appearance of Trees. +Examine West Coast. +Fitzmaurice Bay. +Stokes' Point. +Seal Bay. +Geological Formation. +Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock. +Brig Rock. +Cross the Strait to Hunter Island. +Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks. +Three Hummock Island. +Rats. +The Black Pyramid. +Point Woolnorth. +Raised Beach. +Coast to Circular Head. +Headquarters of the Agricultural Company. +Capture of a Native. +Mouth of the Tamar River. +Return to Port Phillip. +West Channel. +Yarra-yarra River. +Melbourne. +Custom of Natives. +Manna. +Visit Geelong. +Station Peak. +Aboriginal Names. +South Channel. +Examine Western Port. +Adventure with a Snake. +Black Swans. +Cape Patterson. +Deep Soundings. +Revisit King and Hunter Islands. +Fire. +Circular Head. +Gales of Wind. +Reid's Rocks. +Sea Elephant Rock. +Wild Dogs. +Navarin and Harbinger Reefs. +Arrive at Port Phillip. +Sail for Sydney. +Pigeon House. +Drought. +Mr. Usborne leaves. + + +CHAPTER 1.10. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +Leave Sydney. +Gale and Current. +Port Stephens. +Tahlee. +River Karuah. +Stroud. +Wild Cattle. +Incivility of a Settler. +River Allyn. +Mr. Boydell. +Cultivation of Tobacco. +A clearing Lease. +William River. +Crossing the Karuah at Night. +Sail from Port Stephens. +Breaksea Spit. +Discover a Bank. +Cape Capricorn. +Northumberland Isles. +Sandalwood. +Cape Upstart. +Discover a River. +Raised Beach. +Section of Barrier Reef. +Natives. +Plants and Animals. +Magnetical Island. +Halifax Bay. +Height of Cordillera. +Fitzroy Island. +Hope Island. +Verifying Captain King's Original Chart. +Cape Bedford. +New Geological Feature. +Lizard Island. +Captain Cook. +Barrier and Reefs within. +Howick Group. +Noble Island. +Cape Melville. +Reef near Cape Flinders. +Princess Charlotte's Bay. +Section of a detached Reef. +Tide at Claremont Isles. +Restoration Island. +Islands fronting Cape Grenville. +Boydan Island. +Correct Chart. +Tides. +Cairncross Island. +Escape River. +Correct position of Reefs. +York Isles. +Tides. +Torres Strait. +Endeavour Strait. +Booby Island. +Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs. +Cape Croker and reef off it. +Discover error in longitude of Cape. +Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington. +Arrive at the latter. + + +CHAPTER 1.11. + +Port Essington. +Bearings from shoals in the Harbour. +Appearance of the Settlement. +Meet Captain Stanley. +Church. +Point Record. +Prospects of the Settlement. +Buffaloes escape. +Fence across neck of Peninsula. +Lieutenant P.B. Stewart explores the Country. +Natives. +Uses of Sand. +Tumuli-building Birds. +Beautiful Opossum. +Wild Bees. +Escape from an Alligator. +Result of Astronomical Observations. +Geological Formation. +Raffles Bay. +Leave Port Essington. +Popham Bay. +Detect error in position of Port Essington. +Melville Island. +Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait. +Cape Hotham. +Native Huts and Clothing. +Geological Formation. +Discover the Adelaide River. +Interview with Natives. +Attempt to come on board. +Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared. +Exploration of the Adelaide. +Its capabilities. +Wood-ducks. +Vampires. +Another party ascends the Adelaide. +Meet Natives. +Canoes. +Alligator. +Visit Melville Island. +Green Ants. +Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned. +Tides in Dundas Strait. +Return to Port Essington. +Theatricals. +H.M.S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions. +Further remarks on the Colony. + + +CHAPTER 1.12. + +Leave Port Essington. +Reach Timor Laut. +Meet Proas. +Chief Lomba. +Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton. +Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island. +Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors. +Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew. +Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut. +Description of the Inhabitants. +Dress. +Leprosy. +Canoes. +Village of Oliliet. +Curious Houses. +Remarkable Ornaments. +Visit the Oran Kaya. +Burial Islet. +Supplies obtained. +Gunpowder in request as Barter. +Proceed to the Arru Islands. +Dobbo Harbour. +Trade. +Present to Chief. +Birds of Paradise. +Chinaming Junks' bottoms. +Character of Natives. +Some of them profess Christianity. +Visit the Ki Islands. +Village of Ki Illi. +How protected. +Place of Worship. +Pottery. +Timber. +Boat-building. +Cultivation of the eastern Ki. +No anchorage off it. +Visit Ki Doulan. +Antique Appearance of. +Luxuriant Vegetation. +Employment of Natives. +Defences of the place. +Carvings on gateway. +Civility of Chief. +His Dress. +Population of the Ki Group. +Their Religion. +Trade. +Place of Interment. +Agility of Australian Native. +Supplies. +Anchorage off Ki Doulan. +Island of Vordate. +Visit from Chief. +Excitement of Natives. +Their Arms and Ornaments. +Carved Horns on Houses. +Alarm of the Oran Kaya. +Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch. +Revisit Oliliet. +Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy. +Return to Port Essington. +Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + +List of Birds, collected by the Officers of H.M.S. Beagle. + +Descriptions of Six Fish. By Sir John Richardson. M.D., F.R.S. etc. + +Descriptions of some New Australian Reptiles. By J.E. Gray, Esquire +F.R.S. etc. + +Descriptions of new or unfigured Species of Coleoptera from Australia. By +Adam White, Esquire M.E.S. + +Descriptions of some new or imperfectly characterized Lepidoptera from +Australia. By E. Doubleday, Esquire F.L.S. + + +LIST OF CHARTS. + +VOLUME 1. + +GENERAL CHART OF AUSTRALIA. + +BASS STRAIT. + +ARAFURA SEA. + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +VOLUME 1. + +NATIVES OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA. +I.R. Fitzmaurice del. + +SOUTH BRANCH OF THE ALBERT RIVER. +G. GORE del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. + +NATIVE HABITATION. + +SINGULAR TAIL OF KANGAROO. +Natural size. + +ROCKS ON ROE'S GROUP. + +NATIVE RAFT. + +KILEYS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER. +1/24th of the usual size. + +SUBSTANTIAL NATIVE HUT. + +SPEARS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER. + +MONUMENT TO LA PEROUSE. + +CIRCULAR HEAD. +South-South-East Six Miles. + +REID'S ROCKS, KING ISLAND AND THE BLACK PYRAMID. + +SECTION OF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA, AND GREAT BARRIER REEF. +Horizontal Scale of 20 miles. Vertical Scale of 2000 feet. +A. Cape Upstart, 2000 feet high. +B. Bay within 3 fathoms deep. +C. Raised bed of coral and shells, 12 feet high. +D. Depth 17 fathoms, fine grey sand and shells. +E. 27 fathoms, grey sandy mud or marl, which after exposure to the air +becomes very hard. +F. 32 fathoms, coarse sand. +G. Great Barrier Reef, outer part uncertain, being taken from the width +of it near +H. No bottom, with 200 fathoms. +I. Level of sea at high-water; rise of tide 7 feet. + +NORTH-WEST PART OF MAGNETIC ISLAND. +G. Gore del. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. + +MOUNT HINCHINBROOK. +West-North-West 35 Miles. + +SECTION OF A DETACHED CORAL REEF IN LATITUDE 14 DEGREES SOUTH, WITHIN THE +BARRIER REEF OF AUSTRALIA. +The point C (on the edge of the reef C) stands two feet above waterline +G, and the point D 1 1/2 feet above it. The depth of water in the lagoon +exaggerated in section. Figures on line denote depth of water in feet +beneath. G level of sea in a mean state. + +RUSH SHOULDER-COVERING OF NATIVES. + +VICTORIA FROM THE ANCHORAGE. + +NATIVE TOWN OF OLILIET. +O. Stanley del. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. + + +FISHES. + +FISHES. PLATE 1. FIGURES 1, 2, 3. +Cristiceps axillaris. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + +FISHES. PLATE 1. FIGURES 4, 5. +Balistes phaleratus. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + +FISHES. PLATE 2. FIGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. +Assiculus punctatus. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + +FISHES. PLATE 2. FIGURES 6, 7, 8, 9. Natural size. +Scorpaena stokesii. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + +FISHES. PLATE 3. +Smaris porosus. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + +FISHES. PLATE 4. +Chelmon marginalis. +Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. + + +REPTILES. + +REPTILES. PLATE 1. +Silubosaurus stokesii. +Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. + +REPTILES. PLATE 2. +Egernia cunninghami. +Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. + +REPTILES. PLATE 3. +Hydrus stokesii. +Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. + +REPTILES. PLATE 4. +Gonionotus plumbeus. +W. Wing Litho. C. Hullmandel's Patent. + + +INSECTS. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 1, 1a, 1b and 1c. Megacephala Australasiae, +Hope. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 2 and 2a. Aenigma cyanipenne, Hope. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 3, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e and 3f. Calloodes +grayianus, White. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 4, and 4a. Biphyllocera kirbyana, White. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 5. Cetonia (Diaphonia) notabilis. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 6. Stigmodera elegantula. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 7. Stigmodera erythrura. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 8. Stigmodera saundersii, Hope. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 9, 9a, and 9b. Clerus ? obesus. + + +... + + + +CHAPTER 1.1. INTRODUCTION. + +Objects of the Voyage. +The Beagle commissioned. +Her former career. +Her first Commander. +Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer. +Officers and Crew. +Arrival at Plymouth. +Embark Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party. +Chronometric Departure. +Farewell glance at Plymouth. +Death of King William the Fourth. + +For more than half a century, the connection between Great Britain and +her Australian possessions has been one of growing interest; and men of +the highest eminence have foreseen and foretold the ultimate importance +of that vast continent, over which, within the memory of living man, the +roving savage held precarious though unquestioned empire. + +Of the Australian shores, the North-western was the least known, and +became, towards the close of the year 1836, a subject of much +geographical speculation. Former navigators were almost unanimous in +believing that the deep bays known to indent a large portion of this +coast, received the waters of extensive rivers, the discovery of which +would not only open a route to the interior, but afford facilities for +colonizing a part of Australia, so near our East Indian territories, as +to render its occupation an object of evident importance. + +His Majesty's Government therefore determined to send out an expedition +to explore and survey such portions of the Australian coasts as were +wholly or in part unknown to Captains Flinders and King. + +H.M. SLOOP BEAGLE. + +For this service H.M. Sloop Beagle was commissioned at Woolwich, in the +second week of February 1837 by Commander Wickham, who had already twice +accompanied her in her wanderings over the least known and most +boisterous waters of the globe; first, in her sister ship of discovery, +the Adventure, Captain King, and afterwards as first lieutenant of the +sloop now entrusted to his command. Under Captain Wickham some of the +most important objects of the voyage were achieved, but in consequence of +his retirement in March 1841, owing to ill health, the command of the +Beagle was entrusted to the author of the following pages; and as, by a +singular combination of circumstances, no less than three long and +hazardous voyages of discovery have been successfully completed in this +vessel, some account of her here may not be wholly uninteresting. The +reader will be surprised to learn that she belongs to that much-abused +class, the 10-gun brigs--COFFINS, as they are not infrequently designated +in the service; notwithstanding which, she has proved herself, under +every possible variety of trial, in all kinds of weather, an excellent +sea boat. She was built at Woolwich in 1819, and her first exploit was +the novel and unprecedented one of passing through old London bridge (the +first rigged man-of-war that had ever floated so high upon the waters of +the Thames) in order to salute at the coronation of King George the +Fourth. + +VOYAGES OF THE BEAGLE. + +Towards the close of the year 1825 she was first commissioned by +Commander Pringle Stokes,* as second officer of the expedition which +sailed from Plymouth on the 22nd of May, 1826, under the command of +Captain Phillip Parker King; an account of which voyage, published by +Captain R. Fitzroy, who ultimately succeeded to the vacancy occasioned by +the lamented death of Captain Stokes, and who subsequently commanded the +Beagle during her second solitary, but most interesting expedition--has +added to the well-earned reputation of the seaman, the more enduring +laurels which literature and science can alone supply. + +(*Footnote. Not related to the author.) + +DEATH OF CAPTAIN STOKES. + +Though painful recollections surround the subject, it would be hardly +possible to offer an account of the earlier history of the Beagle, and +yet make no allusion to the fate of her first commander, in whom the +service lost, upon the testimony of one well qualified to judge, "an +active, intelligent, and most energetic officer:" and well has it been +remarked by the same high authority, "that those who have been exposed to +one of such trials as his, upon an unknown lee shore, during the worst +description of weather, will understand and appreciate some of those +feelings which wrought too powerfully upon his excitable mind." The +constant and pressing cares connected with his responsible commanded--the +hardships and the dangers to which his crew were of necessity exposed +during the survey of Tierra del Fuego--and in some degree the awful gloom +which rests forever on that storm-swept coast--finally destroyed the +equilibrium of a mind distracted with anxiety and shattered by disease. + +Perhaps no circumstance could prove more strongly the peculiar +difficulties connected with a service of this nature, nor could any more +clearly testify that in this melancholy instance every thought of +self-preservation was absorbed by a zeal to promote the objects of the +expedition, which neither danger, disappointment, anxiety, nor disease +could render less earnest, or less vigilant, even to the last! + +The two vessels returned to England in October, 1830, when the Adventure +was paid off at Woolwich, and the Beagle at Plymouth; she was +recommissioned by Captain Fitzroy--to whose delightful narrative allusion +has been already made--on the 4th July, 1831,* and continued under his +command till her return to Woolwich in November, 1836; where, after +undergoing some slight repairs, she was a third time put in commission +for the purposes of discovery, under Commander Wickham, her former first +lieutenant; and shortly afterwards commenced that third voyage, of the +toils and successes of which, as an humble contribution to the stores of +geographical knowledge, I have attempted in the following pages to convey +as faithful and complete an account as the circumstances under which the +materials have been prepared will allow. Nor will the subject less +interest myself, when I call to mind, that for eighteen years the Beagle +has been to me a home upon the wave--that my first cruise as a Middy was +made in her; that serving in her alone I have passed through every grade +in my profession to the rank I have now the honour to hold--that in her I +have known the excitements of imminent danger, and the delights of long +anticipated success; and that with her perils and her name are connected +those recollections of early and familiar friendship, to which even +memory herself fails to do full justice! + +(*Footnote. The Beagle was stripped to her timbers, and rebuilt under +this able officer's own inspection: and among other improvements, she had +the lightning conductors of the well-known Snow Harris, Esquire, F.R.S. +fitted to her masts; a circumstance to which she has more than once been +indebted for her safety.) + +ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. + +The following instructions were received by Captain Wickham, previous to +our departure from Woolwich, and under them I subsequently acted. + +BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF THE +UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC. + +Whereas his Majesty's surveying vessel, Beagle, under your command, has +been fitted out for the purpose of exploring certain parts of the +north-west coast of New Holland, and of surveying the best channels in +the straits of Bass and Torres, you are hereby required and directed, as +soon as she shall be in all respects ready, to repair to Plymouth Sound, +in order to obtain a chronometric departure from the west end of the +breakwater, and then to proceed, with all convenient expedition, to Santa +Cruz, in Tenerife. + +In the voyage there, you are to endeavour to pass over the reputed site +of the Eight Stones, within the limits pointed out by our Hydrographer; +but keeping a strict lookout for any appearance of discoloured water, and +getting a few deep casts of the lead. + +At Tenerife you are to remain three days, for the purpose of rating the +chronometers, when you are to make the best of your way to Bahia, in +order to replenish your water, and from thence to Simon's Bay, at the +Cape of Good Hope; where, having without loss of time obtained the +necessary refreshments, you will proceed direct to Swan River; but as the +severe gales which are sometimes felt at that settlement may not have +entirely ceased, you will approach that coast with due caution. + +At Swan River, you are to land Lieutenants Grey and Lushington, as well +as to refit and water with all convenient despatch; and you are then to +proceed immediately to the north-west coast of New Holland, making the +coast in the vicinity of Dampier Land. The leading objects of your +examination there will be, the extent of the two deep inlets connected +with Roebuck Bay and Cygnet Bay, where the strength and elevation of the +tides have led to the supposition that Dampier Land is an island, and +that the above openings unite in the mouth of a river, or that they +branch off from a wide and deep gulf. Moderate and regular soundings +extend far out from Cape Villaret: you will, therefore, in the first +instance, make that headland; and, keeping along the southern shore of +Roebuck Bay, penetrate at once as far as the Beagle and her boats can +find sufficient depth of water; but you must, however, take care not too +precipitately to commit His Majesty's ship among these rapid tides, nor +to entangle her among the numerous rocks with which all this part of the +coast seems to abound; but by a cautious advance of your boats, for the +double purpose of feeling your way, and at the same time of surveying, +you will establish her in a judicious series of stations, equally +beneficial to the progress of the survey, and to the support of your +detached people. + +Prince Regent River appears to have been fully examined by Captain King +up to its freshwater rapids, but as the adjacent ridges of rocky land +which were seen on both sides of Collier Bay, were only laid down from +their distant appearance, it is probable that they will resolve +themselves into a collection of islands in the rear of Dampier Land; and +it is possible that they may form avenues to some wide expanse of water, +or to the mouth of some large river, the discovery of which would be +highly interesting. + +As this question, whether there are or are not any rivers of magnitude on +the western coast is one of the principal objects of the expedition, you +will leave no likely opening unexplored, nor desist from its examination +till fully satisfied; but as no estimate can be formed of the time +required for its solution, so no period can be here assigned at which you +shall abandon it in order to obtain refreshments; when that necessity is +felt, it must be left to your own judgment, whether to have recourse to +the town Balli, in the strait of Allas, or to the Dutch settlement of +Coepang, or even to the Arrou Islands, which have been described as +places well adapted for that purpose; but on these points you will take +pains to acquire all the information which can be obtained from the +residents at Swan River. + +Another circumstance which prevents any precise instructions being given +to you on this head, is the uncertainty that prevails here respecting the +weather which you may at that period find in those latitudes, and which +it is possible may be such as if not altogether to prevent the execution +of these orders, may at least cause them to be ineffectually performed, +or perhaps lead to a waste of time, which might be better employed on +other parts of the coast. If such should eventually be the case, it would +be prudent not to attempt this intricate part of the coast during the +prevalence of the north-west monsoon, but to employ it in completing the +examination of Shark Bay and of Exmouth Gulf, as well as of other +unexplored intervals of coast up to the 122nd degree of longitude; or, +with a view to the proximity of one of the above-mentioned places of +refreshment, it might, perhaps, be advisable, if compelled to quit the +vicinity of Dampier Land, to devote that part of the season to a more +careful investigation of the low shores of the gulf of Carpentaria, where +it has been surmised, though very loosely, that rivers of some capacity +will be found. + +The above objects having been accomplished (in whatever order you may +find suitable to the service) you will return to the southern settlements +for refreshments; and then proceed, during the summer months of fine +weather and long days, to Bass Strait, in which so many fatal accidents +have recently occurred, and of which you are to make a correct and +effectual survey. + +But previous to your undertaking that survey, as it has been represented +to us that it would be very desirable for the perfection of the Tidal +theory, that an accurate register of the times and heights of high and +low-water should be kept for some time in Bass Strait, you will (if +practicable) establish a party for that purpose on King Island, and you +are to cause the above particulars of the Tides there to be +unintermittently and minutely observed, and registered in the blank forms +which will be supplied to you by our Hydrographer. If, however, +circumstances should render this measure unadvisable at that island, you +will either choose some less objectionable station, where the average +tide in the Strait may be fairly registered; or, if you can employ no +permanent party on this service, you will be the more exact in +ascertaining the above particulars at every one of your stations; and in +all parts of this Strait you will carefully note the set and strength of +the stream at the intermediate hours between high and low-water, and also +the time at which the stream turns in the offing. + +The survey of Bass Strait should include, first, a verification of the +two shores by which it is formed; secondly, such a systematic +representation of the depth and quality of the bottom as will ensure to +any vessel, which chooses to sound by night or day, a correct knowledge +of her position; and, thirdly, a careful examination of the passages on +either side of King Island, as well as through the chains of rocks and +islands which stretch across from Wilson's Promontory to Cape Portland. +This survey will, of course, comprehend the approach to Port Dalrymple, +but the interior details of that extensive harbour may be left to the +officers employed by the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land, +provided you can ascertain that it is his intention to employ them there +within any reasonable time. + +The number of vessels which are now in the habit of passing through Bass +Strait, and the doubts which have recently been expressed, not only of +the just position of the dangers it is known to contain, but of the +existence of others, show the necessity of this survey being executed +with that care and fidelity which will give confidence to all future +navigators; and may, therefore, be more extensive in its limits, and +occupy a larger portion of your time than is at present contemplated. You +must exercise your own judgment as to the fittest period at which you +should either repair to Sydney to refit, or adjourn to Port Dalrymple to +receive occasional supplies. Whenever this branch of the service shall be +completed, you are forthwith by a safe conveyance to transmit a copy of +it to our Secretary, that no time may be lost in publishing it for the +general benefit. + +At Sydney you will find the stores which we have ordered to be deposited +there for your use, and having carefully rated your chronometers, and +taken a fresh departure from the Observatory near that port, and having +re-equipped His Majesty's ship, and fully completed her provisions, you +will proceed by the inner route to Torres Strait, where the most arduous +of your duties are yet to be performed. The numerous reefs which block up +that Strait; the difficulty of entering its intricate channels; the +discordant result of the many partial surveys which have from time to +time been made there, and the rapidly increasing commerce of which it has +become the thoroughfare, call for a full and satisfactory examination of +the whole space between Cape York and the southern shore of New Guinea, +and to this important service, therefore, you will devote the remaining +period for which your supplies will last. + +In this latter survey you will cautiously proceed from the known to the +unknown; you will verify the safety of Endeavour Strait, and furnish +sufficient remarks for avoiding its dangers; you will examine the three +groups called York, Prince of Wales, and Banks, Islands; you will +establish the facilities or determine the dangers of passing through +those groups, and by a well-considered combination of all those results, +you will clearly state the comparative advantages of the different +channels, and finally determine on the best course for vessels to pursue +which shall be going in either direction, or in opposite seasons. Though +with this part of your operations Cook's Bank, Aurora Reef, and the other +shoals in the vicinity will necessarily be connected, yet you are not to +extend them to the 143rd degree of longitude, as the examination of the +great field to the eastward of that meridian must be left to some future +survey which shall include the barrier reefs and their ramified openings +from the Pacific Ocean. You are, on the contrary, to proceed, if +practicable, but most cautiously, in examining the complicated +archipelago of rocks and islands which line the northern side of Torres +Strait, till, at length, reaching New Guinea, you will there ascertain +the general character of that part of its shore, whether it be high and +continuous, or broken into smaller islands with available channels +between them, as has been asserted; or whether, from being guarded by the +innumerable reefs and dangers which are marked in the charts, it must +remain altogether sealed to the navigator. The nature of the country, as +well as of its products, will also be inquiries of considerable interest; +and you will, perhaps, be able to learn whether the Dutch have made any +progress in forming settlements along its shores; and if so, you will +take especial care not to come into collision with any of their +authorities. + +Throughout the whole of this extensive region, you will bear in mind the +mischievous disposition of the natives; and while you strictly practice +that dignified forbearance and benevolence which tend to impress far +higher respect for our power than the exercise of mere force, you will +also be sedulously on your guard against every surprise; and though your +boats should always be completely armed, you will carefully avoid any +conflict where the ignorant or misguided natives may presume on your +pacific appearance, or on the disparity of your numbers. + +You will then turn to the westward, and pursue this part of the survey, +so as to determine the breadth of the foul ground off the coast of New +Guinea, and the continuity or interrupted form of that coast; and you +will establish certain positions on the mainland (if the adjacent sea be +navigable, and if not on the several advancing islands) which may serve +as useful land-falls for vessels coming from the Indian Seas, or for +points of departure for those who have passed through any of these +straits. You will thus continue a general examination of this hitherto +unexplored coast as far as Cape Valsche, which is now said to be only the +terminating point of a chain of large islands, and then across to the +Arrou Islands, which are supposed to be remarkably fertile, to abound +with resources and refreshments, and to be peopled by a harmless and +industrious race, but which do not appear to have been visited by any of +His Majesty's ships. + +The length of time which may be required for the due execution of all the +foregoing objects cannot be foreseen. It may exceed that for which your +supplies are calculated, or, on the other hand, a less degree of the +supposed complexity in the ground you will have traversed, along with the +energy and diligence with which we rely on you for conducting these +important services, may enable you to complete them within that period. +In this latter case you will return to the Northern coast of New Holland, +and selecting such parts of it as may afford useful harbours of retreat, +or which may appear to comprise the mouths of any streams of magnitude, +you will employ your spare time in such discoveries as may more or less +tend to the general object of the expedition. + +Before your departure from Sydney you will have learnt that His Majesty's +Government has established a new settlement at Port Essington, or +somewhere on the North coast of New Holland; and before you finally +abandon that district you will visit this new colony, and contribute by +every means in your power to its resources and its stability. + +We have not, in the concluding part of these Orders, pointed out the +places or the periods at which you are to replenish your provisions, +because the latter must depend on various circumstances which cannot be +foreseen, and the former may be safely left to your own decision and +prudence; but when you have been three years on your ground, unless some +very important result were to promise itself from an extension of that +period, you will proceed to the Island of Mauritius, in order to complete +your stock of water and provisions, and then, touching at either side of +the Cape of Good Hope, according to the season, and afterwards at +Ascension, you will make the best of your way to Spithead, and report +your arrival to our Secretary. + +Directions will be forwarded to the commanders-in-chief at the Cape of +Good Hope and in the East Indies, and to the governors or +lieutenant-governors of the several settlements at which you have been +ordered to call, to assist and further your enterprise as far as their +means will admit: and you will lose no opportunity, at those several +places, of informing our Secretary of the general outline of your +proceedings, and of transmitting traces of the surveys which you may have +effected, together with copies of your tide and other observations. You +will likewise, by every safe opportunity, communicate to our Hydrographer +detailed accounts of all your proceedings which relate to the surveys; +and you will strictly comply with the enclosed instructions, which have +been drawn up by him under our directions, as well as all those which he +may, from time to time, forward by our command. + +Given under our hands, the 8th of June, 1837. + +Signed, + +Charles Adam. + +George Elliott. + +To J.C. Wickham, Esquire. + +Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Beagle, at Woolwich. + +By command of their Lordships. + +Signed, + +John Barrow. + +... + +Nor should the valuable instructions of Captain Beaufort, Hydrographer to +the Admiralty, be forgotten; such extracts as may probably prove of +interest to the general reader are here subjoined. + +EXTRACTS FROM HYDROGRAPHER'S INSTRUCTIONS. + +The general objects of the expedition which has been placed under your +command, having been set forth in their Lordship's orders, it becomes my +duty to enter somewhat more specifically into the nature and details of +the service which you are to perform. Their Lordships having expressed +the fullest reliance on your zeal and talents, and having cautiously and +wisely abstained from fettering you in that division and disposition of +your time which the periodic changes of the seasons or the necessities of +the vessel may require, it would ill become me to enter too minutely into +any of those arrangements which have been so flatteringly left to your +discretion; yet, in order to assist you with the results of that +experience which has been derived from the many surveys carried on under +the direction of the Admiralty, and to ensure that uniform consistency of +method in your varied labours, which will so greatly enhance their value, +I will briefly touch on some of the most important subjects, and repeat +those instructions which their Lordships have in every former case +ratified, and which it is therefore expected you will bear in mind during +the whole progress of your survey. + +The first point to which your orders advert, after quitting England, is +the Eight Stones, where you will probably add one to the many testimonies +which have been already collected of their non-existence, at least in the +place assigned to them in the old charts; but, before we venture to +expunge them, it becomes a serious duty to traverse their position in +every possible direction. Should the weather be favourable, it would be +desirable, while crossing their parallel, to obtain one very deep cast of +the lead, and should that succeed in reaching the bottom, the sacrifice +of a few days will be well bestowed in endeavouring to trace a further +portion of the bank. A small chart, showing the tracks of various ships +across this place, is hereto annexed, and as the meridian of 16 degrees +22 minutes nearly bisects the two adjacent courses, you are recommended +to cross their parallel in that longitude. + +From the Canary Islands to the coast of Brazil, and indeed throughout +every part of your voyage, you should endeavour to pass over the places +of all the reported Vigias which lie near your course, either outward or +homeward. You will perceive a multitude of them carelessly marked on +every chart, but of some you will find a circumstantial description in +that useful publication, the Nautical Magazine, and a day devoted to the +search of any, which will not withdraw you too far from your due course, +will be well employed. + +The rocks off Cape Leeuwin, some near King George Sound, the dangerous +patch off Kangaroo Island, and many others, of which accounts are given +in the above work, ought, if possible, to be examined, as more +immediately appertaining to your own field. Whenever found, the depth, +nature, and limits of the banks on which they stand, should be +determined, as they might prove to be of sufficient extent to give +warning to the danger, and then a direct course should be immediately +made by the Beagle to the nearest land, where a convenient place should +be selected, and its position carefully ascertained. + +At Swan River you will have previously learnt from Lieutenant Roe, the +Surveyor-General, whether the above-mentioned rocks off Kangaroo Island, +have been again seen, or their position altered, since Captain Brockman's +first description, so as to save your time in the search. + +You will no doubt obtain from that intelligent officer, Lieutenant Roe, +much important information respecting the north-west coast, as well as +all the detached intelligence, which during his long residence there he +must have collected, relating to every part of the shores of New Holland. +From him, also, you will acquire many useful hints about the places in +the Indian Sea where refreshments may be obtained, as well as some +insight into the disposition of the authorities and the inhabitants whom +you will meet there, and he will probably be able to give you a clear +account of the duration of the monsoons and their accompanying weather. + +If at Port Dalrymple it should so happen that you can wait on Sir John +Franklin, it is probable that he will detach Lieutenant Burnett to +cooperate with you in the survey of Bass Strait, and it is certain that +the Governor will do everything in his power to assist your labours. At +Sydney you will have the advantage of seeing Captain P.P. King, whose +long experience of all those coasts, as well as of the seasons, and of +the manner of dealing with the inhabitants, will be of the utmost use to +you; and whose zeal for the King's service, and whose love of science, +will lead him to do everything possible to promote your views. If Mr. +Cunningham, the Government Botanist, be there, he also will, I am +convinced, eagerly communicate to you and your officers everything which +may be serviceable in the pursuits connected with Natural History. + +At Swan River, at Port Dalrymple, and at Sydney, it may, perhaps, be +possible for you to hire, at a low rate, some person acquainted with the +dialects of the natives, which you are subsequently to visit, and with +whom it will be so essential to be on friendly terms. Such a person will +greatly assist in that object; but you will keep him on board no longer +than absolutely necessary, and you will take care to provide for his +return if the Beagle should not be able to carry him back. + +GENERAL INFORMATION. + +In such an extensive and distant survey, numerous subjects of inquiry, +though not strictly nautical, will suggest themselves to your active +mind; and though, from your transient stay at any other place, you will +often experience the mortification of leaving them incomplete, yet that +should not discourage you in the collection of every useful fact within +your reach. Your example in this respect will stimulate the efforts of +the younger officers under your command, and through them may even have a +beneficial influence on the future character of the navy. + +It has been suggested by some geologists, that the coral insect, instead +of raising its superstructure directly from the bottom of the sea, works +only on the summits of submarine mountains, which have been projected +upwards by volcanic action. They account, therefore, for the basin-like +form so generally observed in coral islands, by supposing that they exist +on the circular lip of extinct volcanic craters; and as much of your work +will lie among islands and cays of coral formation, you should collect +every fact which can throw any light on the subject. + +Hitherto it has been made a part of the duty of all the surveying vessels +to keep an exact register of the height of the barometer, at its two +maxima of 9, and its two minima of 3 o'clock, as well as that of the +thermometer at the above periods, and at its own day and night maximum +and minimum, as well as the continual comparative temperature of the sea +and air. This was done with the view of assisting to provide authentic +data, collected from all parts of the world, and ready for the use of +future labourers, whenever some accidental discovery, or the direction of +some powerful mind, should happily rescue that science from its present +neglected state. But those hours of entry greatly interfere with the +employments of such officers as are capable of registering those +instruments with the precision and delicacy which alone can render +meteorologic data useful, and their future utility is at present so +uncertain, that it does not appear necessary that you should do more than +record, twice a day, the height of the former, as well as the extremes of +the thermometer, unless, from some unforeseen cause, you should be long +detained in any one port, when a system of these observations might then +be advantageously undertaken. There are, however, some occasional +observations, which cannot fail of being extensively useful in future +investigations: + +1. During the approach of the periodic changes of wind and weather, and +then the hygrometer, also, should find a place in the journal. + +2. The mean temperature of the sea at the equator, or, perhaps, under a +vertical sun. These observations should be repeated whenever the ship is +in either of those situations, as well in the Atlantic as in the Pacific; +they should be made far away from the influence of the land, and at +certain constant depths, suppose fifty and ten fathoms, and at the +surface also; and this last ought to be again observed at the +corresponding hour of the night. + +3. A collection of good observations, systematically continued, for the +purpose of connecting the isothermal lines of the globe, and made, as +above, at certain uniform depths. + +4. Some very interesting facts might result from the comparison of the +direct heat of the solar rays in high and low latitudes. The two +thermometers for this purpose should be precisely similar in every +respect; the ball of the one should be covered with white kerseymere, and +of the other with black kerseymere, and they should be suspended far out +of the reach of any reflected heat from the ship, and also at the same +elevation above the surface of the water; the observations should be made +out of sight of land, in a variety of latitudes, and at different hours +of the day, and every pains taken to render them all strictly similar and +comparative. + +5. All your meteorologic instruments should be carefully compared +throughout a large extent of the scales, and tabulated for the purpose of +applying the requisite corrections when necessary, and one or more of +them should be compared with the standard instruments at the Royal +Society or Royal Observatory on your return home. + +6. All observations which involve the comparison of minute differences +should be the mean result of at least three readings, and should be as +much as possible the province of the same individual observer. + +7. In some of those singularly heavy showers which occur in crossing the +Equator, and also at the changes of the Monsoon, attempts should be made +to measure the quantity of rain that falls in a given time. A very rude +instrument, if properly placed, will answer this purpose, merely a wide +superficial basin to receive the rain, and to deliver it into a pipe, +whose diameter, compared with that of the mouth of the basin, will show +the number of inches, etc. that have fallen on an exaggerated scale. + +8. It is unnecessary to call your attention to the necessity of recording +every circumstance connected with that highly interesting phenomenon, the +Aurora Australis, such as the angular bearing and elevation of the point +of coruscation; the bearing also of the principal luminous arches, etc. + +9. It has been asserted that lunar and solar halos are not always exactly +circular, and a general order might, therefore, be given to the officer +of the watch, to measure their vertical and horizontal diameters whenever +they occur, day or night. + +Large collections of natural history cannot be expected, nor any +connected account of the structure or geological arrangements of the +great islands which you are to coast; nor, indeed, would minute inquiries +on these subjects be at all consistent with the true objects of the +survey. But, to an observant eye, some facts will unavoidably present +themselves, which will be well worth recording, and the medical officers +will, no doubt, be anxious to contribute their share to the scientific +character of the survey. + +I have now exhausted every subject to which it can be necessary to call +the attention of an officer of your long experience; and I have, +therefore, only further to express my conviction, that if Providence +permits you to retain your wonted health and activity, you will pursue +the great objects of this expedition with all the energy in your power, +and with all the perseverance consistent with a due regard to the safety +of His Majesty's Ship, and to the comfort of your officers and crew. + +Given, etc. this 8th of June, 1837. + +F. Beaufort, + +Hydrographer. + +... + +OFFICERS AND CREW. + +The crew embarked in the Beagle in this her third voyage, consisted of: + +John Clements Wickham, Commander and Surveyor. +James B. Emery, Lieutenant. +Henry Eden, Lieutenant. +John Lort Stokes, Lieutenant and Assistant Surveyor. +Alexander B. Usborne, Master. +Benjamin Bynoe, Surgeon. +Thomas Tait, Assistant Surgeon. +John E. Dring, Clerk in charge. +Benjamin F. Helpman, Mate. +Auchmuty T. Freeze, Mate. +Thomas T. Birch, Mate. +L.R. Fitzmaurice, Mate.* +William Tarrant, Master's Assistant. +Charles Keys,** Clerk. +Thomas Sorrell, Boatswain. +John Weeks, Carpenter. +A corporal of marines and seven privates, with forty seamen and boys. + +(*Footnote. This officer I afterwards appointed to the assistant +surveyorship (vacated upon my succeeding Captain Wickham) on account of +the active part he had taken in the surveying duties: an appointment most +handsomely confirmed by Captain Beaufort.) + +(**Footnote. Mr. Keys was always a volunteer for boat work, and is +entitled to honourable mention as being, even where all were zealous, of +great value upon more than one occasion.) + +During our six years' voyage the following changes occurred: + +Mr. Usborne invalided, in consequence of his wound, in May 1839; Mr. +Birch exchanged, in August 1839, with Mr. Pasco, into the Britomart; Mr. +Freeze exchanged, in September 1839, with Mr. Forsyth,* into the Pelorus; +in February 1840, Mr. Helpman joined the colonial service in Western +Australia; Mr. C.J. Parker was appointed, in December 1840, to Mr. +Usborne's vacancy, superseding Mr. Tarrant, who had been doing Master's +duty since Mr. Usborne left; Lieutenants Emery and Eden returned to +England in March 1841. Late in the same month Commander Wickham +invalided, when the writer of this narrative was appointed to the vacant +command, by Commander Owen Stanley, H.M.S. Britomart, senior officer +present, an appointment subsequently confirmed by the Lords of the +Admiralty. In April 1841, Lieutenant Graham Gore succeeded Lieutenant +Emery.** Commander Wickham, myself, Mr. Bynoe, the Boatswain, and two +marines, had served in both the previous voyages of the Beagle. + +(*Footnote. From this officer's previous knowledge of the duties of +surveying, having sailed in the Beagle on her former voyage, he proved a +very valuable addition to our party.) + +(**Footnote. Lieutenant Gore had been appointed to H.M.S. Herald and came +down from India, expecting to join her at Sydney: on his arrival, he +found she had left the station; and though he might have spent some +months among his friends there, he in the most spirited manner, at once +volunteered to join the Beagle, and proved himself throughout the +remainder of the voyage of the greatest value, both to the service, and +the friend who here seeks to do justice to his worth. This deserving +officer would seem to have an hereditary taste for the duties of a voyage +of surveying and discovery, his grandfather having accompanied the +renowned circumnavigator, Cook, and his father, the unfortunate Bligh. +Besides Lieutenant Gore's valuable services in H.M.S. Beagle, he was 1st +Lieutenant of H.M.S. Volage, during the early part of the Chinese war, +and present at the capture of Aden: he served under Captain Sir George +Back in the Polar expedition, and on board H.M.S. Albion at the battle of +Navarin.) + +DEPARTURE FROM WOOLWICH. + +On the 9th of June we left Woolwich, in tow of H.M. Steamer Boxer, +furnished with every comfort and necessary (by the Lords of the +Admiralty) which our own experience, or the kind interest of Captain +Beaufort could suggest. It had been determined by the Government--the +plan having been suggested by Lieutenant Grey to Lord Glenelg, then +Secretary of State for the Colonies--that, simultaneously with the survey +of the seaboard of the great continent of Australia, under Captain +Wickham, a party should be employed in inland researches, in order more +particularly to solve the problem of the existence of a great river, or +water inlet, supposed, upon the authority of Captains King and Dampier, +to open out at some point on its western or north-western side, then but +partially and imperfectly surveyed. + +LIEUTENANTS GREY AND LUSHINGTON'S PARTY. + +This expedition was now entrusted to the command of Lieutenant +Grey--since Governor of South Australia--who was accompanied by +Lieutenant, now Captain Lushington; Mr. Walker, Surgeon, and Corporals +Coles and Auger, of the Royal Sappers and Miners, who had volunteered +their services: they were to take passage in the Beagle, and to proceed +either to the Cape of Good Hope or Swan River, as Lieutenant Grey might +ultimately determine. It was arranged that they should join us at +Plymouth, and on our arrival there on the 20th of June--having called at +Portsmouth on our way--we found them anxiously expecting us. + +Here we were busily occupied for some days in rating the chronometers, +and testing the various magnetic instruments: we also during this time +swung the ship to try the local attraction, which neither here, nor in +any subsequent experiments, exceeded one degree. As the ship lay in the +Sound our observations were made on a stone in the breakwater marked +230/1, from whence we took our chronometric departure; it is about +one-third of the length from the east end, and had been used for similar +purposes by Captains King and Fitzroy. We considered it to be west of +Greenwich, 0 hours 16 minutes 33 seconds 4t. + +FAREWELL GLANCE AT PLYMOUTH. + +Hardly anyone can visit Plymouth Sound without being at once struck with +the singular beauty of the surrounding scenery; nor shall I easily forget +the mingled feelings of admiration and regret with which my eye dwelt +upon the quiet spot the evening before bidding it a long, long farewell. +The sea had sunk to sleep, and not a single breath disturbed its glassy +surface: the silent waters--and yet how eloquently that silence spoke to +the heart--glided swiftly past; into the still air rose the unbroken +column of the thin and distant smoke; through long vistas of far-off +trees, which art and nature had combined to group, the magnificent +building at Mount Edgcumbe, but veiled, to increase its beauty: scenery +varying from the soft luxury of the park, to the rude freedom of the wild +mountain's side, by turns solicited the eye; and as I leant against a +shattered rock, filled with all those nameless feelings which such an +hour was so well fitted to call forth, I felt notwithstanding all the +temptations of promised adventure, the full bitterness of the price we +pay for its excitements! + +DEATH OF WILLIAM THE FOURTH. + +On the evening of the 21st of June, we received the melancholy +intelligence of the death of our late most gracious Sovereign, King +William the Fourth. To all classes of his subjects his mild and paternal +government has endeared his memory; and none however they may differ with +him, or with each other, upon that great political revolution which will +render the name and reign of the Fourth William, no less remarkable than +that of the Third, will refuse the tribute of their sincerest respect for +qualities that adorned the sovereign while they exalted the man. By the +naval service, in which he had spent the early part of his life, his name +will long be remembered with affection; he never lost sight of its +interests; and warmly supported its several institutions and charities, +long after he had been called by Providence to the Throne of his Fathers. +We bore the first intelligence of his fate, and the account of the +accession of our present most gracious Queen, to every port at which we +touched up to the period of our reaching Swan River. + + +CHAPTER 1.2. PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA. + +Sail from Plymouth. +The Eight Stones. +Peak of Tenerife. +Approach to Santa Cruz. +La Cueva de Los Guanches. +Trade with Mogadore. +Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas. +Reason to regret Mombas having been given up. +Sail from Tenerife. +Search for rocks near the equator. +Arrival at San Salvador. +Appearance of Bahia. +State of the Country. +Slave Trade. +And results of Slavery. +Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa. +Moral condition of the Negroes. +Middy's Grave. +Departure from Bahia. +Mr. "Very Well Dice". + +The morning of the 5th July saw us running out of Plymouth Sound with a +light northerly wind, and hazy weather: soon after we were outside we +spoke H.M.S. Princess Charlotte, bearing the flag of Admiral Sir R. +Stopford, and as she was bound down channel we kept together for the next +three days: she had old shipmates on board, and was not the less an +object of interest on that account. Nothing worthy of particular notice +occurred during the run to Santa Cruz in Tenerife, which we made on the +18th of July; having in obedience to our instructions passed over the +presumed site of The Eight Stones, thus adding another though almost +needless testimony to their non-existence, at least in the place assigned +them in the old charts. + +In passing the gut of Gibraltar we remarked the current setting us into +it: this I have before noticed in outward voyages: in the homeward, one +is generally too far to the westward to feel its effects. A small +schooner sailed for England on the 20th, and most of us took the +opportunity of sending letters by her. I learnt from the master of her +that a timber ship had been recently picked up near the island, having +been dismasted in a gale off the banks of Newfoundland; she was 105 days +drifting here. + +PEAK OF TENERIFE. + +We were not so fortunate on this occasion as to obtain a distant sea view +of the far-famed peak of Tenerife. There are few natural objects of +greater interest when so beheld. Rising at a distance of some 40 leagues +in dim and awful solitude from the bosom of the seemingly boundless waves +that guard its base, it rests at first upon the blue outline of the +horizon like a conically shaped cloud: hour after hour as you approach +the island it seems to grow upon the sight, until at length its broad +reflection darkens the surrounding waters. I can imagine nothing better +calculated than an appearance of this kind to satisfy a beholder of the +spherical figure of the earth, and it would seem almost incredible that +early navigators should have failed to find conviction in the unvarying +testimonies of their own experience, which an approach to every shore +afforded. + +In approaching the anchorage of Santa Cruz, vessels should close with the +shore, and get into soundings before--as is the general custom--arriving +abreast of the town, where from the steepness of the bank, and its +proximity to the shore, they are obliged to anchor suddenly, a practice +never desirable, and to vessels short handed, always inconvenient: +besides calms sometimes prevail in the offing, which would prevent a +vessel reaching the anchorage at all. + +LA CUEVA DE LOS GUANCHES. + +Lieutenant Grey was most indefatigable in collecting information during +the short period of our stay at the island, as an examination of his +interesting work will at once satisfy the reader: he explored a cave +three miles to the north-east of Santa Cruz, known by tradition as La +Cueva de los Guanches, and reputed to be a burying-place of the +aboriginal inhabitants of the island: it was full of bones, and from the +specimens he brought away, and also from his description of all that he +examined, they appear to have belonged to a small-limbed race of men. + +Besides the wine trade, a considerable traffic is carried on with the +Moors upon the opposite coast, who exchange gums and sometimes ivory for +cotton and calico prints, and occasionally tobacco. + +TRADE WITH MOGADORE. + +The chief port for this trade is Mogadore, from whence ships not +unfrequently sail direct to Liverpool. + +A singular circumstance was mentioned to me by our first Lieutenant Mr. +Emery, as tending to prove the existence of commercial intercourse +between the various tribes in the interior, and the inhabitants of the +coast at Mogadore on the north-west coast of Africa, and Mombas on the +south-east. In the year 1830, certain English goods were recognized in +the hands of the Moors at Mogadore which had been sold two years +previously to the natives at Mombas. The great extent of territory passed +over within these dates, renders this fact somewhat extraordinary; and it +affords a reason for regretting that we did not keep possession of +Mombas, which would ere this have enabled us to penetrate into the +interior of Africa: we abandoned it, at the very time when the tribes in +the interior were beginning to find out the value of our manufactures, +especially calicoes and cottons. + +From the best information that Lieutenant Emery had obtained among the +natives, it seems certain that a very large lake exists in the interior, +its banks thickly studded with buildings, and lying nearly due west from +Mombas. + +It was Lieutenant Emery's intention to have visited this lake had he +remained longer at Mombas; the Sultan's son was to have accompanied him, +an advantage which, coupled with his own knowledge of the country and its +customs, together with his great popularity among the natives, must have +ensured him success. It is to be feared, that so favourable an +opportunity for clearing up the doubts and darkness which at present +beset geographers in attempting to delineate this unknown land, will not +soon again present itself. + +SAIL FROM TENERIFE. + +Having completed the necessary magnetic observations, and rated the +chronometers, we sailed from Tenerife, on the evening of the 23rd. It +should be noticed that the results obtained from our observations for the +dip of the needle, differed very materially from those given by former +observers: the experiments made by Lieutenant Grey in different parts of +the island, satisfied us that the variation could not be imputed to +merely local causes. + +As in obedience to our instructions we had to examine and determine the +hitherto doubtful position of certain rocks near the Equator, about the +meridian of 20 degrees West longitude, we were obliged to take a course +that carried us far to the eastward of the Cape de Verd Islands; for this +reason we had the North-East trade wind very light; we finally lost it on +the 30th, in latitude 13 degrees 0 minutes North, and longitude 14 +degrees 40 minutes West; it had been for the two previous days scarcely +perceptible. + +The South-East trade reached us on the 8th of August, latitude 3 degrees +30 minutes North longitude 17 degrees 40 minutes West, and on the morning +of the 10th we crossed the Equator in longitude 22 degrees 0 minutes +West: when sundry of our crew and passengers underwent the usual +ceremonies in honour of old Father Neptune. A close and careful search +within the limits specified in our instructions justified us in +certifying the non-existence of the rocks therein alluded to: but before +we presume to pass any censure upon those who preceded us in the honours +of maritime discovery, and the labours of maritime survey, it will be +proper to bear in mind the ceaseless changes to which the earth's surface +is subject, and that, though our knowledge is but limited of the +phenomena connected with subterranean and volcanic agency, still, in the +sudden upheaval and subsidence of Sabrina and Graham Islands, we have +sufficient evidence of their vast disturbing power, to warrant the +supposition that such might have been the case with the rocks for which +our search proved fruitless. Nor are these the only causes that may be +assigned to reconcile the conflicting testimonies of various Navigators +upon the existence of such dangers; the origin of which may be ascribed +to drift timber--reflected light discolouring the sea, and causing the +appearance of broken water--or to the floating carcass of a whale, by +which I have myself been more than once deceived. + +ARRIVAL AT SAN SALVADOR. + +A succession of winds between South-South-East and South-East, with the +aid of a strong westerly current, soon brought us near the Brazils. We +made the land on the morning of the 17th, about 15 miles to the +north-east of Bahia, and in the afternoon anchored off the town of San +Salvador. + +Though this was neither my first nor second visit to Bahia, I was still +not indifferent to the magnificent or rather luxuriant tropical scenery +which it presents. A bank of such verdure as these sun-lit climes alone +supply, rose precipitously from the dark blue water, dotted with the +white and gleaming walls of houses and convents half hidden in woods of +every tint of green; while here and there the lofty spires of some +Christian temple pointed to a yet fairer world, invisible to mortal eye, +and suggested even to the least thoughtful, that glorious as is this +lower earth, framed by Heaven's beneficence for man's enjoyment, still it +is not that home to which the hand of revelation directs the aspirations +of our frail humanity. + +STATE OF THE COUNTRY AT BAHIA. + +I had last seen Bahia in August, 1836, on the homeward voyage of the +Beagle; and it was then in anything but a satisfactory condition; the +white population divided among themselves, and the slaves concerting by +one bloody and desperate blow to achieve their freedom. It did not appear +to have improved during the intervening period: a revolutionary movement +was still contemplated by the more liberal section of the Brazilians, +though at the very period they thus judiciously selected for squabbling +with one another, they were living in hourly expectation of a rising, en +masse, of the blacks. That such an insurrection must sooner or later take +place--and take place with all the most fearful circumstances of long +delayed and complete revenge--no unprejudiced observer can doubt. + +SLAVE TRADE. + +That selfish and short-sighted policy which is almost invariably allied +with despotism, has led to such constant additions by importation to the +number of the slave population, that it now exceeds the white in the +ratio of ten to one, while individually the slaves are both physically +and in natural capacity more than equal to their sensual and degenerate +masters. Bahia and its neighbourhood have a bad eminence in the annals of +the Brazilian slave-trade. Upwards of fifty, some accounts say eighty +cargoes, had been landed there since the Beagle's last visit: nor is the +circumstance to be wondered at when we bear in mind, that the price of a +slave then varied from 90 to 100 pounds, and this in a country not +abounding in money. + +The declining trade, the internal disorganization, and the rapidly +augmenting slave population of Bahia, all tend to prove that the system +of slavery which the Brazilians consider essential to the welfare of +their country, operates directly against her real interests. The +wonderful resources of the Brazils will, however, never be fully +developed until the Brazilians resolve to adopt the line of policy +suggested in Captain Fitzroy's interesting remarks upon this subject. To +encourage an industrious native population on the one hand, and on the +other to declare the slave-trade piratical, are the first necessary steps +in that march of improvement, by which this tottering empire may yet be +preserved from premature decay. + +RESULTS OF SLAVERY. + +It would, however, be a vain imagination, to suppose that this wiser and +more humane determination will be spontaneously adopted by those most +implicated in this debasing and demoralizing traffic. Indeed it appears +from the best information obtained on the subject, that since the +vigilance of our cruizers has comparatively put a stop to the trade on +the west coast of Africa--where it has received a great +discouragement--it has been greatly extended on the east. Could it but +have been foreseen by our Government that their efforts upon the west +coast, would in proportion as they were successful, only tend to drive +the traders in human flesh to the eastward, it is probable that Mombas +would have still been retained under our dominion; for such a possession +would have enabled us to exercise an effectual control in that quarter: +as it is, it gives additional reason to regret that the place was ever +abandoned. The horrors of the passage--horrors which no imagination can +heighten, no pen adequately portray--are by this alteration in the chief +seat of the accursed trade most fearfully augmented. The poor victims of +cruelty and fraud and avarice, in their most repulsive forms, are packed +away between decks scarcely three feet high, in small vessels of 30 or 40 +tons, and thus situated have to encounter the cold and stormy passage +round the Cape: the average mortality is of course most frightful, but +the smallness of the vessels employed decreases the risk of the +speculators in human flesh, who consider themselves amply repaid, if they +save one living cargo out of every five embarked! + +MORAL CONDITION OF THE NEGROES. + +In the meantime cargoes of slaves are almost weekly landed in the +neighbourhood of Bahia: the thousand evils of the vile system are each +day increasing, and with a rapid but unregarded footstep the fearful hour +steals on, when a terrible reckoning of unrestrained revenge will repay +all the accumulated wrongs of the past, and write in characters of blood +an awful warning for the future! + +So far as we could learn, no attempts are made by the masters to +introduce the blessings of Christianity among those whom they deprive of +temporal freedom. The slave is treated as a valuable animal and nothing +more: the claims of his kindred humanity so far forgotten as they relate +to his first unalienable right of personal freedom, are not likely to be +remembered in his favour, in what concerns his coheritage in the sublime +sacrifice of atonement once freely offered for us all! He toils through +long and weary years, cheered by no other hope than the far distant and +oft delusive expectation that a dearly purchased freedom--if for +freedom's blessings any price can be too costly--will enable him to look +once more upon the land of his nativity; and then close his eyes, +surrounded by the loved few whom the ties of kindred endear even to his +rude nature. + +It would swell this portion of the work to an unreasonable extent, to +give any lengthened details of the working of a system, about which among +my readers no two opinions can exist. Let it suffice to say, that the +Europeans are generally better and less exacting masters than the +Brazilians. Among the latter it is a common practice to send so many +slaves each day to earn a certain fixed sum by carrying burdens, pulling +in boats, or other laborious employment; and those who return at night +without the sum thus arbitrarily assessed as the value of their day's +work, are severely flogged for their presumed idleness. + +MIDDY'S GRAVE. + +During our brief stay at Bahia I paid a visit to the grave of poor young +Musters, a little Middy in the Beagle during our last voyage, who died +here on the 19th May, 1832, from the effects of a fever caught while away +on an excursion up the river Macacu. He was a son of Lord Byron's Mary, +and a great favourite with all on board. Poor boy! no stone marks his +lonely resting place upon a foreign shore, but the long grass waves over +his humble grave, and the tall palm tree bends to the melancholy wind +that sighs above it. As I paid his memory the tribute due to his many +virtues and his early death, I breathed a prayer that the still and +placid beauty of the spot where his mortal remains return to their +kindred dust, may typify the tranquil happiness of that world of spirits +with which his own is now united! + +MR. "VERY WELL DICE." + +On the afternoon of Friday the 25th, we left the magnificent bay of +Bahia, and after obtaining an offing, stood away to the southward and +eastward. I was much amused by a story of Grey's a day or two after we +sailed: it seems he had mistaken the Quartermaster's usual call in +conning the ship of "Very well, dice" (a corruption of "very well, thus") +for a complimentary notice of the man at the helm; and anxious to know +the individual who so distinguished himself, had two or three times gone +on deck to see "Mr. Very well Dice:" finding a different helmsman each +time, completely confounded him; and when I explained the matter, he +joined me in a hearty laugh at the mistake! + + +CHAPTER 1.3. FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER. + +A gale. +Anchor in Simon's Bay. +H.M.S. Thalia. +Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa. +Proceedings of the Land Party. +Leave Simon's Bay. +An overloaded ship. +Heavy weather and wet decks. +Island of Amsterdam. +Its true longitude. +St. Paul's. +Water. +Westerly variation. +Rottnest Island. +Gage's Road. +Swan River Settlement. +Fremantle. +An inland lake. +Plans for the future. +Illness of Captain Wickham. +Tidal Phenomena. +Perth. +Approach to it. +Narrow escape of the first settlers. +The Darling Range. +Abundant Harvest. +Singular flight of strange birds. +Curious Cliff near Swan River. +Bald Head. +Mr. Darwin's Theory. +The Natives. +Miago. +Anecdotes of Natives. +Their Superstitions. +Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons. + +We had, upon the whole, a favourable passage across to the Cape; but on +the 17th of September, when distant from it about 500 miles, we +encountered a moderate gale from the north. As this was the first heavy +weather we had experienced since our departure from England, I was +curious to see what effect such a strange scene would have on our +passengers. Wrapt in mute astonishment, they stood gazing with admiration +and awe on the huge waves as they rolled past, occasionally immersing our +little vessel in their white crests--and listening, with emotions not +wholly devoid of fear, to the wild screams of the seabirds as they +skimmed o'er the steep acclivities of these moving masses. The landsmen +were evidently deeply impressed with the grandeur of a storm at sea; nor +can the hardiest seaman look with unconcern on such an exhibition of the +majesty of Him, whose will the winds and waves obey. Not more poetically +beautiful than literally true are the words of the Psalmist, so +appropriately introduced into the Form of Prayers at Sea--"They that go +down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters: +these men see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep: for at +his word the stormy wind ariseth, which lifteth up the waves thereof." My +own experience has over and over again satisfied me, that, mingled with +many a dim superstition, a deep religious sentiment--a conviction of the +might and mercy of Heaven--often rests on the heart of the most reckless +seaman, himself all unconscious of its existence, yet strangely +influenced by its operations! + +ANCHOR AT SIMON'S BAY. + +We sighted land on the evening of the 20th of September, rounded the Cape +the next morning, and in the afternoon anchored in Simon's Bay. We found +here H.M.S. Thalia, bearing the flag of Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, +Commander-in-chief of the Cape station: and during our subsequent stay +received every attention which kindness and courtesy could suggest, from +himself and his officers. + +We were glad to ascertain that our chronometers had been performing +admirably. They gave the longitude of Simon's Bay, within a few seconds +of our homeward determination during the last voyage. Mr. Maclear, of the +Royal Observatory, and Captain Wauchope, of the flagship, had been +measuring the difference of longitude between Simon's Bay dockyard and +Cape Town Observatory, by flashing lights upon the summit of a mountain +midway between those two places. Their trials gave a greater difference, +by a half second, between the two meridians, than we had obtained on a +former visit by carrying chronometers to and fro. The results stand as +follow: + +Mr. Maclear and Captain Wauchope: 11.5 seconds South. + +H.M. Sloop Beagle: 11.0 seconds South. + +ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN HARRIS. + +We found at the Cape the renowned Captain Harris, H.E.I. Company's Bombay +Engineers, who had just returned from his sporting expedition into the +interior of Southern Africa, having made his way through every obstacle, +from the frontier of the Cape Colony, through the territories of the +chief Moselekatse, to the Tropic of Capricorn. With his spirit-stirring +accounts of hunting adventure and savage manners we were all most highly +gratified. What he had seen, where he had been, and what he had performed +"by flood and field," have since been told to the world by himself, and +therefore need not be repeated here: but it would be unpardonable not to +do justice to his energy, his perseverance, and his success. He had +collected quite a museum of the Natural History of the wild beasts +against whom his crusade had been directed; while his collection of +drawings, both as regarded the animals delineated, and the appearance of +the country in which they were found, was really most beautiful: and many +a pleasant hour was spent in viewing the various specimens and +illustrations, each one of which testified the intrepidity and skill of +himself or his no less adventurous companion, William Richardson, +Esquire, B.C.S. It will readily be believed that these two gentlemen were +then, themselves, the great Lions of that part of Africa. + +SAIL FOR SWAN RIVER. + +Having completed our observations, and crammed every available square +inch of the Beagle with various stores--a proceeding rendered absolutely +necessary by the unsatisfactory accounts we received of the state of +affairs at Swan River--we sailed for that place on the morning of the +12th of October. + +It should be mentioned, that Lieutenant Grey, hearing it would be +impossible for him to obtain a suitable vessel at Swan River, hired a +small schooner from this port, and sailed, with his party, for Hanover +Bay, on the north-west coast of Australia, the day after our departure. +His subsequent perils, wanderings, and adventures having been fully +described in his own published account, I need do no more here than +allude to them. + +We encountered a good deal of heavy weather, shifting winds, and +consequently irregular seas, during our run to Swan River; and owing to +the deep state of our loaded little vessel, her decks were almost +constantly flooded. For many days we had never less than an inch and a +half of water on them all over; and this extra weight, in our already +overburdened craft, did not, of course, add to her liveliness; however, +she struggled on. + +ISLAND OF AMSTERDAM. + +And on the 1st of November bore us in sight of the Island of Amsterdam, +and in the afternoon passed to the southward of it, sufficiently near to +determine its position. The summit of the Island, which has rather a +peaked appearance, we found to be 2,760 feet high, in latitude 38 degrees +53 minutes South, longitude 77 degrees 37 minutes East of Greenwich. It +is singular that though this Island, which is almost a finger-post for +ships bound from the Cape either to New Holland or India, has been so +long known to all navigators of these seas, its true longitude should +have been till now unascertained. The western side presented the +appearance of a broken-down crater, nor indeed can there be any reason to +doubt its volcanic origin. Light brown was the pervading colour upon the +sides of the island, and appeared to be caused by stunted bushes and +grass. The southern island, St. Paul's, affords a good anchorage in 21 +fathoms, about midway on its eastern side, latitude 38 degrees 42 +minutes, and is in every way preferable to the spot chosen for that +purpose by Vlaming in 1764, on the south-east side of Amsterdam, where +landing is never very easy, and generally quite impracticable. + +ST. PAUL'S. + +The well ascertained fact, that water is found in abundance at St. +Paul's, leads to a very fair inference, that in this humid atmosphere, +and with a much greater elevation, the same essential commodity may be +met with at Amsterdam; but certainly at St. Paul's, and most probably at +Amsterdam, the rugged nature of the travelling over these volcanic +islands, would render useless any attempt to water a ship. + +The following table, though it may not possess much interest for the +general reader, will not be without its value in the eyes of my nautical +brethren: it shows the increase of variation since 1747: + +COLUMN 1: SOURCE. +COLUMN 2: DATE A.D. +COLUMN 3: WESTERLY VARIATION. + +From Horsburg's Directory : 1747 : 17 1/2. +From Horsburg's Directory : 1764 : 18 3/4. +From Horsburg's Directory : 1793: 20. +H.M.S. Beagle : 1837 : 21. + +As these islands lie in the same meridian, the longitude given above of +Amsterdam, will equally apply to St. Paul's: they are admirably situated +for connecting the meridians of Africa and Australia. We lost sight of +Amsterdam towards evening, and flattered ourselves that we were also +leaving the bad weather behind. The sky more settled; the sea less high; +and the barometer rising: such indications, however, cannot be implicitly +trusted in this boisterous climate; and shortly after dark, having +shipped a very heavy sea, we rounded too for the night. The constant set +of the huge following seas, carried our little vessel much faster to the +eastward than could be easily credited, till proved by actual +observation. During the last three or four days, we had run upwards of +195 miles daily by the observations, being from twenty to thirty more +each day than appeared from the reckoning. + +ROTTNEST ISLAND. + +We made Rottnest Island on the morning of Wednesday, November 15th; and +in the afternoon of the same day, anchored in Gage's Road, Swan River. +Our position at midnight, the night before, made us about 30 miles from +the mainland, when we had the wind from the eastward, getting round again +towards noon to south and by west. This may be some guide to the limit of +the land wind, and as such I record the fact. During the three days +previous to our making the land, we experienced a northerly current of +one knot per hour. We tried during the same period for soundings, with +nearly 200 fathoms, but in vain. + +We passed along the north shore of Rottnest at the distance of a mile and +a half, closing with it as we got to the eastward, where it is not so +rocky. The north shore should not be approached within a mile. As we were +opening out the bay on the north-east end of the island, we passed over a +rocky patch, with, from appearance, not more than three fathoms on it, it +is small, and we had 14 fathoms close to it. This patch is about one mile +North by West from the north-west point of the bay. Off this point is a +low rocky islet; and when on the shoal, we could just make out the white +sandy beach in the bay open between it and the point. The western points +of the island are all shut in by the north point; therefore, keeping them +open, will always enable the navigator to give this dangerous rock* a +wide berth. + +(*Footnote. Now called Roe's Patch.) + +SWAN RIVER SETTLEMENT. + +The Swan River Settlement, which is a portion of the colony of Western +Australia, was founded in August 1829, under the auspices of the Colonial +Office, Captain Stirling being the first Lieutenant-Governor. + +FREMANTLE. + +Fremantle, at the entrance of Swan River, is the sea port; and Perth, +situate about nine miles inland, the seat of Government: Guildford and +York are the other chief places in the colony. + +There is nothing very particularly inviting in the first appearance of +Western Australia; dull-green-looking downs, backed by a slightly +undulating range of hills, rising to nearly 2,000 feet high, are the +chief natural features of the prospect. Fremantle, of which it was +wittily said by the quartermaster of one of His Majesty's ships who +visited the place, "You might run it through an hourglass in a day," is +but a collection of low white houses scattered over the scarce whiter +sand. The only conspicuous landmark visible in approaching the anchorage +is the Jail: rather a singular pharos for a settlement in Australia, +which boasts its uncontaminated state. This building I afterwards induced +the Governor to have white-washed, and it now forms an excellent mark to +point out the river, as well as the town.* + +(*Footnote. A large patch of white sand, on the coast, about three miles +to the northward of Swan River, also serves as a landmark.) + +Shortly after our arrival, I was introduced to the Governor, Sir James +Stirling; he, and all those here best qualified to judge, joined in +regretting that Lieutenant Grey had not decided to come on with us. The +accounts we heard of the country and the natives gave us every reason to +entertain but slender hopes of his success. + +AN INLAND LAKE. + +Sir James and Mr. Roe, the Surveyor-General, appeared to coincide with +the general opinion that a large inland lake will ultimately be +discovered. They had questioned many of the natives about it, who all +asserted its existence, and pointed in a south-easterly direction to +indicate its position. Their notions of distance are, to say the least, +exceedingly rude; with them everything is "far away, far away." The size +of this water the natives describe by saying, that if a boy commenced +walking round it, by the time he finished his task he would have become +an old man! After all may not this be the great Australian Bight that +these natives have heard of, for none we met in Western Australia +pretended to have seen it? They derive their information from the eastern +tribes, and under such circumstances it must at least be considered +extremely vague.* + +(*Footnote. This much-talked-of lake, which it was the assumed labour of +a life to circumambulate, was discovered in January 1843, by Messrs. +Landor and Lefroy, who found it about 100 miles South-South-East from +Beverley. It is quite salt, called Dambeling, and about fifteen miles +long by seven and a half broad!) + +The Surveyor-General had lately returned from an exploring journey to the +eastward of the capital, and reported that there existed no reasonable +probability of extending the colony in that direction: he strongly +recommended us to proceed at once to the north-west coast, and return +again to Swan River to recruit; saying that we should find the heat there +too great to remain for a longer period. This course Captain Wickham, +after due deliberation, resolved to adopt, and accordingly all the +stores, not absolutely required, were forthwith landed, and the ship made +in every respect as airy as possible. The 25th November was fixed for our +departure, when most unfortunately Captain Wickham, while on his way to +Perth, was attacked with a severe dysentery, and continued so ill that he +could not be brought to the ship till the end of December. The most that +could be effected was done to improve this unavoidable delay; and our +tidal observations, before commenced, were more diligently pursued. We +found the greatest rise only thirty-one inches, and here, as elsewhere on +the Australian coast, we observed the remarkable phenomenon of only one +tide in the twenty-four hours! Surveying operations were also entered on, +connecting Rottnest Island with the mainland; the dangers which surround +it, as well as those which lie between its shores and the coast, were +discovered and laid down: this survey, of great importance to the +interests of shipping in these waters, was ultimately completed on our +subsequent visits to Swan River. + +That arid appearance which first meets the settler on his arrival, and to +which allusion has already been made, cannot but prove disheartening to +him: particularly if, as is generally the case, his own sanguine +expectations of a second Paradise have been heightened by the interested +descriptions of land jobbers and emigration agents. + +APPROACH TO PERTH. + +However, when he ascends the river towards the capital, this feeling of +despondency will gradually wear away; its various windings bring, to his +eager and anxious eye, many a bright patch of park-like woodland; while +the river, expanding as he proceeds, till the beautiful estuary of +Melville water opens out before him, becomes really a magnificent feature +in the landscape; and the boats, passing and repassing upon its smooth +and glassy bosom, give the animation of industry, and suggest all the +cheerful anticipations of ultimate success to the resolute adventurer. +From about the centre of this lake-like piece of water, the eye first +rests upon the capital of Western Australia, a large straggling village, +partly concealed by the abrupt termination of a woody ridge, and standing +upon a picturesque slope on the right bank of the river, thirteen miles +from its mouth. The distant range of the Darling mountains supplies a +splendid background to the picture, and the refreshing seabreeze which +curls the surface of Melville water every afternoon, adds to the health, +no less than comfort, of the inhabitants. The former inconvenience, +caused by the shoal approach, and which rendered landing at low-water a +most uncomfortable operation, has now been remedied by the construction +of a jetty. + +Like all the Australian rivers with which we are yet acquainted, the Swan +is subject to sudden and tremendous floods, which inundate the corn lands +in its vicinity, and sweep away all opposing obstacles with irresistible +impetuosity. + +NARROW ESCAPE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS. + +The first settlers had a most providential escape from a calamity of this +kind: they had originally selected for the site of their new city, a +low-lying piece of land, which, during the first winter after their +arrival, was visited with one of these strange and unexplained invasions +from the swelling stream: had the deluge been delayed for another year, +these luckless inhabitants of a new world would have shared the fate of +those to whom Noah preached in vain; but, warned in time, they chose some +safer spot, from whence, in future, they and their descendants may safely +contemplate the awful grandeur of similar occurrences, and thankfully +profit by the fertility and abundance which succeed to such wholesale +irrigation. During this, our first visit, I had no opportunity of +penetrating into the country further than the Darling range: in +journeying thither, we passed through Guildford, a township on the banks +of the Swan, about seven miles north-east from Perth, and four from the +foot of the mountains. It stands upon a high part of the alluvial flat +fringing the river, and which extends from half to one mile from it on +either side. The rich quality of the soil may be imagined from the fact, +that, in 1843, after thirteen years of successive cropping, it produced a +more abundant harvest than it had done at first, without any artificial +aid from manures. + +SINGULAR FLIGHT OF STRANGE BIRDS. + +A singular flight of strange birds, was noticed at Guildford about the +year 1833, during the time when the corn was green: they arrived in an +innumerable host, and were so tame as to be easily taken by hand. In +general appearance they resembled the land-rail, but were larger, and +quite as heavy on the wing. They disappeared in the same mysterious +manner as they arrived, and have never since repeated their visit. Were +these birds visitors from the interior, or had they just arrived at the +end of a migratory journey from some distant country? It is to be +regretted that no specimen of them was to be obtained, as it might have +helped to clear an interesting subject from doubt. + +THE DARLING RANGE. + +The change in ascending this range, from the alluvium near its base, to +the primitive formation of which it is itself composed, is very +remarkable. Shells still common on the adjacent coasts were met with 14 +feet below the surface, near the foot of the range, by one of the +colonists when sinking a well. In the same locality deposits of sand may +be seen, having that particular wavy appearance which is always noticed +upon the sea beach. These appearances, as well as the general aspect of +the adjacent country, seem to justify the conclusion I arrived at while +on the spot, that the land which now intervenes between the mountains and +the shore, is a comparatively recent conquest from the sea. The character +of this land may be thus described: The first three miles from the coast +is occupied with ridges of hills, from 100 to 200 feet high, of +calcareous limestone formation, cropping out in such innumerable points +and odd shapes as to be almost impassable. Some of these lumps resemble a +large barnacle; both lumps and points are covered with long, coarse +grass, and thus concealed, become a great hindrance to the pedestrian, +who is constantly wounded by them. To these ridges succeed sandy forest +land and low hills, except on the banks of the rivulets, where a belt of +alluvial soil is to be found. The Darling range traverses the whole of +Western Australia in a direction, generally speaking, north and south. It +appears to subside towards the north, and its greatest elevation is +nearly 2,000 feet. The cliffs of the coast at the mouth of Swan River, +have a most singular appearance, as though covered with thousands of +roots, twisted together into a species of network. + +A SINGULAR CLIFF. + +A similar curiosity is to be seen on Bald Head, in King George's Sound, +so often alluded to by former navigators, and by them mistaken either for +coral, or petrified trees standing where they originally grew. Bald Head +was visited by Mr. Darwin, in company with Captain Fitzroy, in February +1836, and his opinions upon the agencies of formation, so exactly +coincide with those to which I attribute the appearances at Arthur's +Head, that I cannot do better than borrow his words. He says--page 537, +volume 3, "According to our views, the rock was formed by the wind +heaping up calcareous sand, during which process, branches and roots of +trees, and land-shells were enclosed, the mass being afterwards +consolidated by the percolation of rain water. When the wood had decayed, +lime was washed into the cylindrical cavities, and became hard, sometimes +even like that in a stalactite. The weather is now wearing away the +softer rock, and in consequence the casts of roots and branches project +above the surface: their resemblance to the stumps of a dead shrubbery +was so exact, that, before touching them, we were sometimes at a loss to +know which were composed of wood, and which of calcareous matter."* + +(*Footnote. For more exact details the reader should consult Mr. Darwin's +volume on Volcanic Islands.) + +THE NATIVES. + +We were much struck during our stay by the contrast between the natives +here, and those we had seen on the Beagle's former voyage at King +George's Sound. The comparison was wholly in favour of those living +within the influence of their civilized fellow-men: a fact which may +surprise some of my readers, but for which, notwithstanding, I am quite +prepared to vouch. A better quality, and more certain supply of food, are +the causes to which this superiority ought to be attributed: they are +indeed exceedingly fond of wheaten bread, and work hard for the settlers, +in cutting wood and carrying water, in order to obtain it. Individually +they appear peaceable, inoffensive, and well-disposed, and, under proper +management, make very good servants; but when they congregate together +for any length of time, they are too apt to relapse into the vices of +savage life. Among the many useful hints, for which we were indebted to +Mr. Roe, was that of taking a native with us to the northward; and, +accordingly, after some trouble, we shipped an intelligent young man, +named Miago; he proved, in some respects, exceedingly useful, and made an +excellent gun-room waiter. We noticed that, like most of the natives, he +was deeply scarred, and I learned from him that this is done to recommend +them to the notice of the ladies. Like all savages, they are +treacherous--for uncivilized man has no abstract respect for truth, and +consequently deceit, whether spoken or acted, seems no baseness in his +eyes. + +ANECDOTES OF THE NATIVES. + +I heard an anecdote at Perth that bears upon this subject: A native of +the name of Tonquin asked a settler, who lived some distance in the +interior, permission to spend the night in his kitchen, of which that +evening another native was also an inmate. It seems that some hate, +either personal, or the consequences of a quarrel between their different +tribes, existed in the mind of Tonquin towards his hapless fellow lodger; +and in the night he speared him through the heart, AND THEN VERY QUIETLY +LAID DOWN TO SLEEP! Of course in the morning no little stir took place. +Tonquin was accused, but stoutly denied the charge. So satisfied, +however, was the owner of the house of the guilt of the real culprit, +that had he not made his escape, he would have been executed red hand--as +the border wardens used to say--by the man, the sanctity of whose +roof-tree he had thus profaned. Tonquin afterwards declared that he NEVER +SLEPT FOR NEARLY A FORTNIGHT, being dogged from place to place by the +footsteps of the avengers of blood. He escaped, however, with his life, +though worn almost to a shadow by constant anxiety. When I saw him some +years afterwards, I thought him the finest looking native I had ever +seen, but he was apparently, as those who knew him best reported him to +be, insane. If not the memory of his crime, and the consequent remorse +which it entailed upon him, perhaps the fugitive life he was compelled to +lead in order to avoid the wrath of human retribution, had been used to +make manifest the anger of Heaven for this breach of one of those first +great laws of human society, which are almost as much instincts of our +nature as revelations from the Creator to the creatures of his will! + +SUPERSTITIONS. + +The natives have a superstitious horror of approaching the graves of the +dead, of whom they never like to speak, and when induced to do so, always +whisper. A settler, residing in a dangerous part of the colony, had two +soldiers stationed with him as a guard: upon one occasion five natives +rushed in at a moment when the soldiers were unprepared for their +reception, and a terrible struggle ensued: the soldiers, however, +managed, while on the ground, to shoot two of them, and bayonetted the +remaining three. The five were afterwards buried before the door, nor +could a more perfect safeguard have been devised; no thought even of +revenge for their comrades would afterwards induce any of the tribe to +pass that fearful boundary. + +Their most curious superstition, however, remains to be recorded; it is +the opinion they confidently entertain, and which seems universally +diffused among them, that the white people are their former fellow +countrymen, who in such altered guise revisit the world after death. +Miago assured me that this was the current opinion, and my own personal +observation subsequently confirmed his statement. At Perth, one of the +settlers, from his presumed likeness to a defunct member of the tribe of +the Murray River, was visited by his supposed kindred twice every year, +though in so doing they passed through sixty miles of what was not +unfrequently an enemy's country. + +Their religious opinions, so far as I have been able to obtain any +information on the subject, are exceedingly vague and indefinite. That +they do not regard the grave as man's final resting place, may, however, +be fairly concluded, from the superstition I have just alluded to, and +that they believe in invisible and superior powers--objects of dread and +fear, rather than veneration or love--has been testified in Captain +Grey's most interesting chapter upon Native Customs, and confirmed by my +own experience. + +THE EVIL SPIRIT. + +I used sometimes to question Miago upon this point, and from him I +learned their belief in the existence of an evil spirit, haunting dark +caverns, wells, and places of mystery and gloom, and called Jinga. I +heard from a settler that upon one occasion, a native travelling with +him, refused to go to the well at night from fear of this malevolent +being; supposed to keep an especial guardianship over fresh water, and to +be most terrible and most potent in the hours of darkness. Miago had +never seen this object of his fears, but upon the authority of the elders +of his tribe, he described its visible presence as that of a huge +many-folded serpent; and in the night, when the tall forest trees moaned +and creaked in the fitful wind, he would shrink terrified by the solemn +and mysterious sounds, which then do predispose the mind to superstitious +fears, and tell how, at such a time, his countrymen kindle a fire to +avert the actual presence of the evil spirit, and wait around +it--chanting their uncouth and rhythmical incantations--with fear and +trembling, for the coming dawn. + +I have preserved these anecdotes here, because I can vouch for their +authenticity, and though individually unimportant, they may serve to +throw additional light upon the manners, customs, and traditions of the +Aborigines of Australia; but to all really interested in the subject, I +would recommend a perusal of Captain Grey's second volume. I have as yet +neither space nor materials to attempt any detailed account of the +customs, superstitions, or condition of this strange people; but it would +be impossible to pass them by quite unnoticed: nor can the voyager, whose +chief object is to make their native land a field for the exertions of +British enterprise, be wholly indifferent to the manner in which our +dominion may affect them. The history of almost every colony, founded by +European energy, has been one fearful catalogue of crime; and though by +the side of the Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese, English adventurers seem +gentle and benevolent, still cruelty and oppression have too often +disgraced our name and faith. + +FUTURE PROSPECTS. + +Thank Heaven, with many a doubt as to the time that must elapse ere that +glad day shall come, I can look onward with confidence to a period--I +trust not far remote--when throughout the length and breadth of +Australia, Christian civilization shall attest that the claims upon +England's benevolence have been nobly acknowledged! + + +CHAPTER 1.4. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. + +Sail from Gage's Road. +Search for a bank. +Currents and soundings. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef. +Indications of a squall. +Deep sea soundings. +Atmospheric Temperature. +Fish. +A squall. +Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay. +A heavy squall. +Driven from our anchorage. +Cape Villaret. +Anchor in Roebuck Bay. +Excursion on shore. +Visit from the Natives. +Mr. Bynoe's account of them. +A stranger among them. +Captain Grey's account of an almost white race in Australia. +Birds, Snakes, and Turtle. +Move the Ship. +Miago, and the Black Fellows. +The wicked men of the North. +Clouds of Magellan. +Face of the Country. +Natives. +Heat and Sickness. +Miago on shore. +Mr. Usborne wounded. +Failure in Roebuck Bay. +Native notions. + +CURRENTS AND SOUNDINGS. + +The solemnities of Christmas, and the festal celebration of the New Year, +beneath a cloudless sky, and with the thermometer at 90, concluded our +first visit to Swan River. We left our anchorage in Gage's Road on +Thursday, January 4th, devoting several hours to sounding between +Rottnest and the main. We bore away at 4 P.M. to search for a bank said +to exist about fifteen miles north from the middle of Rottnest Island, +having from twenty to twenty-two fathoms over it. Near the position +assigned we certainly shoaled our water from twenty-eight to twenty-four +fathoms, but no other indication of a bank was to be found. + +Satisfied that we had now no further reason for delay, we kept away +North-West with a fresh southerly wind, and the glad omen of a brilliant +sunset. + +January 5. + +We were rather surprised to find by our observation at noon, no +indication of a northerly current, though yesterday when becalmed between +Rottnest and the main we were drifted to the northward at the rate of +nearly two knots per hour. We sounded regularly every four hours, but +found no bottom at 200 fathoms: the wind during the morning was light +from South-South-West but during the night we had it fresh from +South-East. + +January 6. + +We passed, at midnight, within 60 miles of the position assigned in the +chart to the low coral group known as Houtman's Abrolhos,* and again +sounded unsuccessfully with 200 fathoms. + +(*Footnote. Subsequent observations placed these islands 30 miles more to +the eastward than the position there assigned them. Our track, therefore, +was really 90 miles from them.) + +We continued steering a northerly course up to the 9th, keeping within +from 60 to 80 miles distance of the coast, and repeating our deep-sea +soundings every six hours without success. + +INDICATIONS OF A SQUALL. + +The wind during each day was moderate from the South-South-West and South +by West, freshening during the night from South, and South by East; a +heavy swell was its constant companion, and the barometer fell to 29.75. +On the morning of the 9th, being in the parallel of North-west Cape, our +course was altered to North-East by East; it blew hard during the night, +and we had a disagreeable sea; but, as usual, it moderated again towards +the morning. + +We had shaped a course to make a reef in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes, +and named after its discoverer, Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N.; but owing to +its being situated, as we afterwards found, half a degree to the eastward +of its assigned position in the charts, we did not see it. + +At 4 A.M., and with 195 fathoms, we reached a bottom of sand, broken +shells, and coral, being then about 80 miles North-North-East from +Tremouille Island, the nearest land. Steering East by North 1/2 North for +31 miles, brought us to our noon position in latitude 19 degrees 20 +minutes South, longitude 116 degrees 16 minutes East, and into a depth of +120 fathoms, with the same kind of bottoms. South-South-West, 17 miles +from our morning position, Captain King had 83 and 85 fathoms; from this +we may suppose the edge of the bank of soundings, extending off this part +of the coast, to be very steep. These soundings, together with those of +Captain King, as above, may give some idea of the nature and extent of +this bank, which seems to be a continuation of the flat extending +North-North-East 40 miles, connecting Barrow and Tremouille Islands with +the main: its outer edge being kept heaped up thus steeply by the +constant action of the current sweeping round the North-west Cape. + +DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. + +We continued steering East and by North 1/2 North, and at sunset, 14 +miles from our noon position, the water had deepened to 145 fathoms, +bottom a fine white sand and powdered shells. Before we were 50 miles +from our noon position, we could find no bottom with 200 fathoms. + +January 12. + +We made but slow progress during the night, and felt delay the more +tedious from the eager anxiety with which we desired sight of the land +where our duties were to begin in earnest. We were not successful with +our soundings till 6 P.M., when we had the same kind of bottom as before +described, with 117 fathoms: 15 miles East by North 1/2 North from our +noon position, which was 220 miles West by South from Roebuck Bay: 30 +miles in the same direction from our noon position, we shoaled our water +to 85 fathoms, the ground retaining the same distinctive character. We +had the wind from South-West to South-East during the afternoon, but at 6 +P.M. it chopped round to North-North-West, when, too, for the first time, +we perceived lightning to the South-East--Barometer 29.92; thermometer +85. + +January 13. + +The preceding indications of the coming squall, which had given us full +time for preparation, were realized about one o'clock this morning, when +it reached us, though only moderately, from South-East. It was preceded +by the rise and rapid advance of a black cloud in that quarter, just as +Captain King has described. + +ATMOSPHERIC TEMPERATURE. + +At noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 119 +degrees 18 minutes East, and in soundings of 75 fathoms, fine white sand, +broken shells, and fragments of dead coral. There was only a slight +variation in the atmospheric temperature of two degrees during the +twenty-four hours, the highest in the day being 85, and the lowest at +night 83. The water was very smooth, but as night approached it thundered +and lightened heavily and vividly, and most of us noticed and suffered +from a particularly oppressive and overpowering state of the atmosphere, +which the heat indicated by the thermometer was by no means sufficiently +intense to account for. + +January 14. + +During the last twenty-four hours we had made but 51 miles progress in +the direction of Roebuck Bay; our noon observations placed us in latitude +18 degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 120 degrees 13 minutes East, being +about 80 miles from the nearest land. We obtained soundings at 72 +fathoms, yellow sand and broken shells. During the afternoon, it being +nearly a calm, we found ourselves surrounded by quantities of fish, about +the size of the mackerel, and apparently in pursuit of a number of small +and almost transparent members of the finny tribe, not larger than the +minnow. + +We sounded at sunset, and found bottom at 52 fathoms, which shoaled by +half-past ten to 39. The circumstance, however, occasioned no surprise, +as we had run South-South-East 25 miles, in a direct line for that low +portion of the coast from which the flat we were running over extends. + +The first part of the night we had the wind at North-North-East, the +breeze steady, and the water as smooth as glass; but as the watch wore +on, quick flashes of forked lightning, and the suspicious appearance of +gathering clouds in the South-East, gave warning of the unwelcome +approach of a heavy squall. + +HEAVY SQUALL. + +At eleven we lay becalmed for ten minutes between two contending winds; +that from the South, however, presently prevailed, and shifting to the +South-East, blew hard: meantime, a dark mass of clouds in the +East-South-East appeared suddenly to assume the form of a deep-caverned +archway, and moved rapidly towards us; in a few minutes, the ship was +heeling majestically to the passing gust, the lightning flashed vividly +and rapidly around us, alternately concealing and revealing the troubled +surface of the foam-covered sea, while the thunder rolled heavily over +our heads. + +The squall was heavy while it lasted, commencing at East-South-East and +ending at East-North-East. It was accompanied by heavy rain. Towards the +end of the middle watch, the weather began to assume a more settled +appearance, and we had a moderate breeze from the north; but between five +and six o'clock A.M., it shifted suddenly by the West to +South-South-East, and became light. We sounded repeatedly during the +night in from 32 to 35 fathoms, the same kind of bottom as before; which +we found agree very well with those reported in the account of the French +expedition under Captain Baudin. + +From the specimens of the squalls we experienced the last two nights, and +which appear to be pretty regular in their visitation, I am inclined to +believe they do not extend any considerable distance from the land. They +give the seaman ample warning of their approach; yet, since they always +come on in the night, when their violence cannot be properly estimated, +the ship's head should (if circumstances permit) be kept to the westward +(West-North-West) until the short-lived fury of the storm has exhausted +itself. + +January 15. + +We progressed with light and variable airs through the day, gradually +shoaling our water till nine P.M., when the anchor was dropped in 14 +fathoms, having previously passed over a rocky ledge of apparently coral +formation, in 13 1/2 fathoms. The land over the south point of Roebuck +Bay bore East-South-East, about 17 miles distant; but we did not see it +till the following morning. + +DRIVEN FROM THE ANCHORAGE. + +The evening wore a threatening aspect, though not apparently so much to +be dreaded as that of yesterday; however, we were disagreeably out in our +anticipations, for about three o'clock A.M. (January 16) a heavy squall +burst on us, veering from East-South-East to East-North-East, broke our +best bower anchor, and drove us half a mile out to sea, when the +remaining fluke hooked a rock and brought us up. It rained and blew till +daylight, then we were again favoured with fine weather, and light +westerly winds. The land was now in sight, Cape Villaret being the most +northerly point, and bearing East-South-East some 16 or 17 miles. The +hillock upon this cape, and two other hummocks, lying to the southward, +formed the only prominent features of the low land in sight. + +CAPE VILLARET. + +At this anchorage the flood-tide set East and by North, from one to one +and a half knots per hour. Before weighing I procured a specimen of live +coral from the depth of 11 fathoms. + +Light airs, and the aid of the flood-tide, carried us into the centre of +Roebuck Bay, where we came to an anchor in 7 fathoms, Cape Villaret +bearing South by West 1/2 West about 10 miles. The fall of the tide here +was no less than 18 feet. + +As we closed with the land, I had a good opportunity of speculating upon +its appearance, and the probability of our investigation confirming or +contradicting the opinion entertained by Captains King and Dampier, that +a channel would be found to connect Roebuck Bay with an opening behind +Buccaneers Archipelago, thus making Dampier's Land an island. I confess, +my own impressions at first sight differed from that of those high +authorities, nor did a nearer examination shake my opinion. Cape +Villaret, a short ridge lying East and West, and about 150 feet high, was +still the most remarkable object; the sand on its side having a curious +red appearance. From the masthead the land was not visible to the +eastward for the space of one point of the compass; yet its level +character, and the shoalness of the water, led alike to the opinion that +no such communication as supposed would be found to exist. + +January 17. + +Collecting materials for the chart was the chief occupation of the day. +Mr. Usborne discovered a high-water inlet in the south shore of the bay, +five miles east of Cape Villaret, having a dry bank of sand before it at +low-water. + +VISIT FROM THE NATIVES. + +While the party were on shore, they were visited by six of the natives, a +larger race of men than those on the south coast, naked, with the +exception of a grass mat round the waist, and the hair straight and tied +up behind, seemingly ignorant of the use of the throwing stick, but +carrying spears ill-shapen and unbarbed. One of them had a kiley, or +boomerang, and each carried a rude hatchet of stone. None of them had +suffered the loss of the front tooth, which, with some tribes, is a +distinction of manhood. When asked by signs for fresh water, of which our +party saw no traces, they pointed to the South-East; a circumstance which +I record, as it may possibly be of some service to future explorers. As +the boat was leaving, one of them, supposing, I presume, that they were +out of our reach, and might therefore attack us with impunity, threw a +stone at the boat, which luckily did no harm, though hurled with great +dexterity and force. Upon this, a pistol was discharged over their heads, +when they retired with far greater rapidity than they had advanced. + +AN ALMOST WHITE RACE. + +Mr. Usborne mentions, in an account of this interview (published in the +Nautical Magazine for 1840, page 576) that one of the party differed in +several physical characteristics from the rest. After describing them in +general terms as being from five feet six, to five feet nine inches tall, +broad shoulders, long and slight legs, large heads, and overhanging +brows--he continues, "There was an exception in the youngest, who +appeared of an entirely different race: his skin was a copper colour, +while the others were black; his head was not so large, and more rounded; +the overhanging brow was lost; the shoulders more of a European turn; and +the body and legs much better proportioned; in fact, he might be +considered a well-made man, at our standard of figure." A similar +instance of meeting with one of a tribe, not apparently belonging to the +same subdivision of the human family as those by whom he was surrounded, +is recorded by Captain Grey, who speaks indeed of the existence of a +distinct race, totally different (i.e. from the other aborigines) and +almost white. I cannot say that I have myself encountered any of these +almost white men, whose existence, as a distinct race, Captain Grey +appears to have rather hastily admitted; such variation in form and +colour as Mr. Usborne alludes to, may, however, be accounted for by the +intercourse which the natives on the north coast hold from time to time +with the Malays. + +Several very large black martins, with white or grey heads, were hovering +over the ship this morning; and many flights of small white tern, and a +bird, commonly called the razor-bill, passed and re-passed the ship every +morning and evening, flying from the bay to seaward, and returning at +sunset. Two water snakes were shot alongside the ship during the day; the +largest measured four feet, and was of a dirty yellow colour. A +good-sized fish was taken from the stomach of one of them. Their fangs +were particularly long, and very much flattened, having no cutting edge +whatever. + +Some turtle also passed the ship to-day, and a day or two afterwards we +were fortunate enough to shoot one which weighed 160 pounds: he had ample +justice done to his merits. It was high-water at 1.50 P.M., and the +stream changed at the same time, a circumstance conclusively +demonstrating that we were not anchored in a strait. + +January 18. + +We got underweigh in the morning, but from the shallowness of the water +anchored within a mile east of our former position. + +THE NATIVE MIAGO. + +The native Miago, who had accompanied us from Swan River, was most +earnest in his inquiries about the savages, as soon as he understood that +some of them had been seen. He appeared delighted that these +blackfellows, as he calls them, have no throwing sticks; for though at +times exceedingly valiant in conversation, and very anxious to kill one +of the men, and carry off one of their gins, or wives--the great end, +aim, and ambition of all Australian force or policy--he yet evidently +holds these northmen in great dread. They are, according to his account, +"Bad men--eat men--Perth men tell me so: Perth men say, Miago, you go on +shore very little, plenty Quibra men* go, you go." These instructions +appear to have been very carefully pressed upon him by his associates, +and certainly they had succeeded in inspiring him with the utmost dread +of this division of his fellow countrymen, which all his boasting about +killing some of them and taking one of their women as proof of his +prowess, back to Perth, failed to concern. + +(*Footnote. i.e. Men of the ship.) + +CLOUDS OF MAGELLAN. + +He gave me this evening a new reason to account for the appearance of the +two small clouds called after the celebrated Magellan, in the following +words: "You see," said he, pointing up to the sky, "little smoke." I +assented at once; for certainly the clouds have very much the appearance +of that to which he compared them: he then continued: "Perth man tell me, +long, long time back, he make fire, smoke go far away up, far away, stop +and never go away more." Miago evidently believed that his friend at +Perth had really lighted the fire, the smoke of which had thus gone up +"far away, far away," to "stop and never go away more." I can easily +enough comprehend why the assertion might be made, and possibly without +any intention to deceive upon the part of the asserter, who may first +have seen the clouds after watching the ascent of his own fire smoke +through the still air, in the same direction; but that it should be +implicitly believed, as it evidently was by Miago, upon the mere word of +his fellow countryman, did, I own, astonish me; and seems to indicate +that, in their social intercourse with each other, they may have more +regard for truth than I was at first inclined to give them credit for. + +USELESS BAY. + +Mr. Usborne was away to-day in one of the boats, seeking a berth for the +ship higher up the bay: upon his return he reported that he had been over +the banks before mentioned, upon which he found the water very shoal: the +face of the country he described as exceedingly low, with mud lumps not +unlike ant-hills,* scattered here and there over the face of it, and +several clusters of small trees. Natives also had been seen, though no +opportunity of approaching them had occurred, as the moment their +restless eyes, or quick ears, detected our approach, they most rapidly +retreated. + +(*Footnote. Subsequent experience literally verified this opinion.) + +HEAT AND SICKNESS. + +January 19. + +Two boats were despatched this morning, under Mr. Usborne's command, to +examine the eastern part of what I think may be named very properly +Useless Bay. This would have been my duty, had I not unfortunately been +taken ill in the evening of the preceding day: the symptoms were violent +headache, and a disordered state of the stomach, caused, the surgeon +says, by the oppressive and overpowering heat which we have experienced +for the last few days, and the general effects of which seem more +distressing to the ship's company than is often experienced under a +higher range of the thermometer; the deprivation of all power, or energy, +is one of its most unpleasant consequences. I am inclined to think that +one reason for its great and wearying effect upon most of us--indeed, +more or less, all are suffering from it--is that there is hardly any +variation in temperature during the whole twenty-four hours: it sometimes +does not amount to more than two or three degrees. Captain Wickham and +the surgeon visited an inlet near the ship to-day, which had indeed been +looked into, but not explored before. They proceeded to the south-west +for about three miles, through a very tortuous channel, dry in many parts +at low-water, thickly studded with mangrove bushes, over and through +which the tide made its way at high-water, giving to that part of the +country the appearance of an extensive morass. A slightly elevated +table-topped range of land was seen from time to time, some eight or nine +miles to the south-east, but in its highest elevation did not reach 200 +feet. The apparent width of the inlet in no way diminished so far as the +exploring party examined it; and this fact, coupled with the general +character of the country hereabouts, induces me to suppose that the +periodical return of the spring tide, floods the greater part of the +coast between the sea shore and the base of the range I have alluded to. +Vampires of a very large kind were here met with, the furthest south we +had seen them. + +MIAGO ON SHORE. + +Miago had accompanied this party on shore, though he evidently showed no +great devotion to the deed. They said he watched everything, aye, every +bush, with the most scrutinizing gaze: his head appeared to turn upon a +pivot, so constantly was it in motion, with all that restless +watchfulness for which the savage is ever remarkable. The heat to-day +either exceeded an average, or else perhaps, as an invalid, I noticed it +more closely: + +On shore, it was 98 degrees in the shade. +On board, it was 90 degrees in the shade. +Pulling off in the boats 118. +During the day, it fluctuated, between 88 and 94. + +A breeze from seaward blew the greater part of each night from +West-South-West, hauling round to south in the morning. + +January 20. + +Our noon observation to-day enabled us to fix the latitude of Cape +Villaret 18 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds, which precisely agrees with +that assigned to it by Captain King. + +MR. USBORNE WOUNDED. + +In the afternoon the boats returned with Mr. Usborne, who had been +unfortunately very severely wounded by the accidental discharge of a +musket. It appeared that after a careful examination of the bay, which +ended as I had anticipated, in proving that no opening to the interior +would be found in it, the party were returning to the boats, when, from +the accidental explosion of a musket in the hand of one of the party, a +ball entered Mr. Usborne's right side, near the spine, between the lower +rib and hip bone, making an exit in a line with the navel. This truly +unfortunate circumstance--which for some weeks deprived the expedition of +the services of a most valuable officer--occurred about 10 o'clock A.M., +but the time and trouble of carrying the sufferer through the mud to the +boats, and then pulling some 15 miles, made it near 6 o'clock before he +was on board and under the charge of Mr. Bynoe: we were all shocked to +see our companion lifted apparently lifeless into the vessel he had so +recently quitted full of health, and animated by an anxious desire to do +all in his power to conduce to the general success; but were ere long +assured by Mr. Bynoe, whose personal or professional merits need no +eulogium from me--and who immediately and most carefully attended our +wounded messmate--that the best results might be reasonably hoped for: a +prediction shortly afterwards happily verified. At the time this unlucky +accident occurred, some twenty natives rushed from the concealment whence +they had been doubtless watching all the proceedings of the party, as +though they designed to bear a part in what probably seemed to them, as +poor Usborne went down, an approaching fray: however, the sight of the +two boats in the distance, which upon deploying they had full in view, +deterred them from acting upon any hostile intentions, supposing such to +have existed in their minds. + +LOADED PISTOLS LEFT BEHIND. + +The accident, however, and their sudden appearance, could only serve +additionally to flurry the little party who had to convey their disabled +officer to a place of safety, and Mr. Helpman, who may well be pardoned +the want of his usual self-possession at such a moment, left behind a +pair of loaded pistols. They would puzzle the savages greatly of course, +but I hope no ill consequences ensued: if they began pulling them about, +or put them in the fire, the better to separate the wood and iron, two or +three poor wretches might be killed or maimed for life, and their first +recollections of the Quibra men, as Miago calls us, would naturally be +anything but favourable. + +Thus disastrously terminated our examination of Roebuck Bay, in which the +cheering reports of former navigators, no less than the tenor of our +hydrographical instructions had induced us to anticipate the discovery of +some great water-communication with the interior of this vast Continent. +A most thorough and careful search--in which everyone seemed animated by +one common and universal sentiment, prompting all to a zealous discharge +of duty--had clearly demonstrated that the hoped-for river must be sought +elsewhere: and that very fact which at first seemed to lessen the +probabilities of ultimate success, served rather to inspire than to +daunt; since while it could not shake our reliance upon the opinions of +those best qualified to decide, that such a river must ultimately be +discovered, it only narrowed the ground upon which energy, knowledge, and +perseverance had yet to undergo their probation, ere they enjoyed their +reward! + +THE BOYL-YAS. + +Our intercourse with the natives had been necessarily of the most limited +character, hardly amounting to anything beyond indulging them with the +sight of a new people, whose very existence, notwithstanding the +apathetic indifference with which they regarded us, must have appeared a +prodigy. What tradition may serve to hand down the memory of our visit to +the third generation, should no newer arrival correct its gathering +errors, and again restore some vestige of the truth, it is hardly +possible to imagine; but should any misfortune follow their possession of +Mr. Helpman's pistols, that in particular will be narrated as the motive +for the visit of those white men who came flying upon the water, and left +some of the secret fire upon the peaceful coast: and when again the white +sails of the explorer glisten in the distant horizon, all the imaginary +terrors of the Boyl-yas,* will be invoked to avert the coming of those +who bring with them the unspeakable blessings of Christian civilization. + +(*Footnote. The natives in the neighbourhood of Swan River give this name +to their Sorcerers.) + + +CHAPTER 1.5. FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. + +Departure from Roebuck Bay. +Appearance of the Country. +Progress to the northward. +Hills and Cliffs. +French Names and French Navigators. +Tasman, and his account of the Natives. +Hazeygaeys and Assagais. +His Authenticity as an Historian. +Description of the Natives. +Marks and mutilations. +Phrenological Development. +Moral condition. +Proas, Canoes, and Rafts. +Another squall. +Anchor in Beagle Bay. +Face of the Country. +Palm Trees. +Dew. +Hauling the Seine. +A meeting with Natives. +Eastern Salutation. +Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen. +Mutilation of the Hand. +Native smokes seen. +Move further to the North-East. +Point Emeriau. +Cape Leveque. +Point Swan. +Tide-races. +Search for water. +Encountered by Natives. +Return to the Ship. +The attempt renewed. +Conduct of the Natives. +Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark. +A successful haul. +More Natives. +Miago's Heroism. +The plague of Flies. +Dampier's description of it. +Native Habitations. +Underweigh. +Wind and weather. +Tidal Phenomenon. +Natural History. +Singular Kangaroo. +Bustard. +Cinnamon Kangaroo. +Quails. +Goanas and Lizards. +Ant Hills. +Fishing over the side. +A day in the Bush. +A flood of fire. +Soil and Productions. +White Ibis. +Curious Tree. +Rain water. +Geology of the Cliffs. +Weigh, and graze a Rock, or Touch and go. +The Twins. +Sunday Strait. +Roe's Group. +Miago and his friends. +A black dog. +A day of rest. +Native raft. +Captain King and the Bathurst. +A gale. +Point Cunningham. +Successful search for water. +Native estimation of this fluid. +Discovery of a Skeleton. +And its removal. +The grey Ibis. +Our parting legacy. + +DEPARTURE FROM ROEBUCK BAY. + +January 22, 1838. + +Satisfied that no inland communication could be expected from Roebuck +Bay, we weighed in the early part of the morning, and stood away to the +northward. + +APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. + +Roebuck Bay, so named to commemorate the name of Dampier's ship, is about +sixteen miles across: the southern shores are low, and extensive +sandbanks and mud flats are bared at low-water. Near the North-East point +of the bottom of this bay, is a curious range of low cliffs, from twenty +to thirty feet high, and strongly tinged with red, in such a manner as to +suggest that they must be highly impregnated with oxide of iron. In the +neighbourhood of these cliffs the country had a more fertile, or rather a +less desolate appearance, stretching out into extensive plains, lightly +timbered with various trees of the genus Eucalypti, while, on the south +shore of the bay, the mangroves were numerous. + +Towards the afternoon we discovered a small inlet, being then about 30 +miles from our former anchorage in Roebuck Bay. We steered directly for +it, and when within half a mile of its mouth, we had, at high-water, six +fathoms. From the masthead I could trace distinctly the course of this +inlet, which at this state of the tide appeared to be of great extent; +but the bar which locked its mouth, and over which the sea was breaking +very heavily, rendered it impossible to take a boat across without +evident risk, by which no real good would be obtained, as the rise and +fall of the tide, eighteen feet, on this low coast, was more than +sufficient to account for the imposing, though deceptive appearance of +this opening. From the main-top-gallant yard I was enabled to take an +almost bird's-eye view of the level country stretched apparently at my +feet. The shore, like the south side of Roebuck Bay, was fringed with +mangroves, while to the North-North-East lay an extensive plain, over +which the water seemed, at certain seasons of the year, to flow. The +country around, for miles, wore the appearance of an interminable and +boundless plain, with an almost imperceptible landward elevation, and +thickly wooded with stunted trees. + +In sailing along this part of the coast we found several inaccuracies in +Captain King's chart, doubtless owing to the distant view with which he +was compelled to content himself, and to the unfavourable state of the +weather against which he had to contend. I was on deck nearly, indeed, +the whole of the night, baffled by flying clouds in my attempts to fix +our latitude by the stars: at length, however, I succeeded in +ascertaining it to be 17 degrees 40 minutes South. + +January 23. + +The morning was fine, but the wind we had experienced the preceding night +caused a rather heavy swell, which rendered the attempt to enter this +inlet an impracticable task; however, it was tried. We found between the +ship and the shore six, four, and two fathoms, but as the mouth of the +inlet was filled with breakers, apparently on a bar extending out half a +mile, I was fully convinced that further perseverance would only amount +to waste of time and needless risk, and therefore, after taking a few +angles to fix the position of the boat, we returned on board. It appeared +at low-water to be nearly dry, and then only amounted to a collection of +mud and sandbanks. The examination quite satisfied me that it partook of +the same character as the one already spoken of as seen yesterday, and +that they are alike useless. + +We were soon underway, and standing towards, or rather along, the shore; +and as the day advanced, the wind drew more to the westward, a common +occurrence, enabling us to lay along the shore, North 1/2 East. By four +P.M., we were within two miles of it, in nine fathoms. + +The coast here is fronted with a range of sandhills, some of which are +topped with verdure: several low black rocky points extend for some +distance from the flat sandy beach into the sea. I have no hesitation in +saying, that this is a kind of black sandstone, often found at the bases +of most cliffy points, and probably coloured by the chemical action of +the saltwater. The sandhills, which form the coastline, do not appear to +extend more than a mile inland. Beyond, the country appeared to subside +into the same dull level which is the characteristic feature of what we +have yet seen of this coast, thickly studded with timber of a much finer +growth than the stunted productions of Roebuck Bay. Behind the cliffy +parts of the coast the land assumed a more fertile appearance; and this +seemed an almost invariable law in the natural history of this new world. + +PROGRESS TO THE NORTHWARD. + +Five miles to the northward of Point Coulomb, we passed a reef, lying a +mile from the shore, with seven fathoms one mile seaward of it. The land +now trended to the eastward, and formed a large bay, the south point of +which we rounded at half past four P.M. The mangroves grew right down to +the water's edge, and the spring tides appear to inundate the country to +a very considerable extent, the land here being lower than any we had yet +seen. We anchored, at half past eight, in six and a half fathoms, and I +ran below to find how our wounded messmate had borne the day. + +From my usual post, the masthead, I traced the shore from point to point +of Carnot Bay, so named after the celebrated French consul and engineer. +A very low sandy point bore North 67 degrees, East 6 miles. Sandbanks and +breakers completely fortified its shores, and effectually forbid all +approach, except under the most favourable circumstances. + +LAND DISCOVERED BY TASMAN. + +The several French names with which Commodore Baudin has distinguished +leading portions of this coast, of course, professional courtesy will +willingly respect; it is, however, only right to mention, that while he +contented himself with so distant a view of this part of Australia as to +be sometimes completely mistaken in the most important particulars, to +the celebrated Abel Tasman belongs the merit of having previously landed +upon its shores in that very bay, which now bears the name of the great +republican. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. + +Tasman describes the natives as being quite naked, black in colour, and +having curly hair, "malicious and cruel," using for arms bows and arrows, +hazeygaeys* and kalawaeys. They came, upon one occasion, fifty in number, +to attack a party of the Dutch, who had landed, but took fright at the +sight and sound of firearms. "Their proas," he adds, "are made of the +bark of trees, and they use no houses." + +(*Footnote. Hazeygaeys are synonymous with assagais, the name for the +short African spear, used by the tribes between Port Natal and the Cape, +and which is generally supposed to be the native term for the weapon. +Captain Harris, however, states that this supposition is incorrect; and, +certainly, its appearance and termination here incline me to join him in +suspecting it of a +Dutch origin.) + +Such is the account of this distinguished and trustworthy discoverer, +upon whose veracity I should be the last to attempt to affix suspicion: +his very simplicity of detail, and the entire absence of rhetorical +artifice, would convey sufficient internal evidence of his truth, had not +the subsequent progress of Australian discovery served to confirm all the +material facts of his narrative. I may, however, remark, that the natives +seen upon this coast during our cruise, within the limits of Roebuck Bay +to the south, and Port George the Fourth to the north, an extent of more +than 200 miles, with the exception that I shall presently notice, agreed +in having a common character of form, feature, hair, and physiognomy, +which I may thus describe. The average height of the males may be taken +to be from five feet five inches to five feet nine inches, though, upon +one occasion, I saw one who exceeded this height by an inch. They are +almost black--in fact, for ordinary description, that word, unqualified +by the adverb, serves the purpose best. Their limbs are spare and light, +but the muscle is finely developed in the superior joint of the arm, +which is probably owing to their constant use of it in throwing the +spear. Some tribes are entirely naked, while others wear girdles of skin +and leaves, hardly sufficient, however, to serve any purpose of decency, +much less of comfort. + +PHRENOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT. + +Their hair is always dark, sometimes straight and sometimes curled, and +not unfrequently tied up behind; but we saw no instance of a negro, or +woolly, head among them. They wear the beard upon the chin, but not upon +the upper lip, and allow it to grow to such a length as enables them to +champ and chew it when excited by rage; an action which they accompany +with spitting it out against the object of their indignation or contempt. +They have very overhanging brows, and retreating foreheads, large noses, +full lips, and wide mouths: in some cases they want the two foreteeth in +the upper jaw, and while, in any one tribe in which the custom prevails, +it seems to be unanimous, it does not appear to be, by any means, +universally diffused along the whole north-western coast. The +unfavourable impression produced by the prevailing character of their +physiognomy, is confirmed, if their phrenological conformation is taken +into consideration; and certainly, if the principles of that science are +admitted to be true, these savages are woefully deficient in all the +qualities which contribute to man's moral supremacy. Let me, in justice, +add, that while we found them ignorant and incurious to the last degree, +they were generally suspicious rather than treacherous, and not +insensible to such acts of kindness as they could comprehend. + +Upon all this extent of coast, we saw no single instance of the use, or +even existence, of any proa, or canoe; and my own opinion, strengthened +by personal experience, and enforced by the authority of the most recent +navigators, is, that the canoe is not used upon the north-west coast. The +negative evidence, at least, is strongly in favour of this presumption; +for, while we saw the canoe in use in Clarence Strait--the western +boundary of the northern coast--we saw nothing but the raft to the south +of that point. I cannot, therefore, avoid the conclusion, that, misled by +the similarity of external appearance, Tasman mistook the raft of +unbarked timber for a bark canoe, such as he may have seen upon other +parts of the coast. + +We had a return of the same kind of squall from the eastward, as we had +experienced before our arrival in Roebuck Bay, and from which, since that +time till now, we had luckily managed to +escape. + +January 24. + +We were again at work by daylight, but were delayed, getting clear of the +foul ground, lying off Cape Baskerville, on which we twice shoaled the +water to three and five fathoms, five and seven miles West and by South +from that headland. + +BEAGLE BAY. + +The land over it rises to an elevation of nearly 200 feet, and then again +becomes low and sandy, opening out a bay, which from appearance promised, +and wherein we afterwards found, good anchorage: it was named Beagle Bay, +and may serve hereafter to remind the seamen who benefit by the survey in +which that vessel bore so conspicuous a part, of the amount of his +obligations to the Government that sent her forth, the skill and energy +that directed her course, and the patient discipline by which, during her +long period of active service, so much was done for the extension of our +maritime knowledge. In the bight formed between this bay and Cape +Baskerville we passed two high-water inlets; the mouths of both were +fronted with rocky ledges. We anchored here, soon after midday, and had +every reason to be satisfied with our berth. Beagle Bay is about three +miles broad and seven deep; the country around is low and open, and +traces of water deposit were visible in several spots to indicate its +dangerous proximity to the sea. The smaller shrubs of the country were +common; and the mangroves flourished in great abundance on the beach, and +along the little creeks that diverge from it. Some large anthills, and +very small palm trees, not six feet in height, were noticed for the first +time so far south. During the night the wind veered round to South-West, +and blew quite fresh, a circumstance which made us additionally prize our +good anchorage here. We had, however, no squall, nor any dew, which I +should mention falls most copiously upon certain nights, without any +apparent indication; to these dews, the vegetation of this country, so +far as we can judge, seems to owe its principal nourishment and support. + +VISITED BY NATIVES. + +January 25. + +The forenoon was devoted to the examination of this excellent anchorage, +and a party was also despatched to haul the seine. On landing they were +met by a party of natives, who saluted them in a manner which strikingly +resembled the eastern mode. They had no weapon, save one kiley or +boomerang, and bowed down until they almost kissed the water. + +CONDUCT OF MIAGO. + +Their speech was shrill and quick, perfectly unintelligible to our friend +Miago, who seemed greatly in fear of them: they seemed astonished to find +one apparently of their own clime, complexion, and degree in company with +the white strangers, who must have seemed to them a different race of +beings; nor was their wonder at all abated when Miago threw open his +shirt, and showed them his breast curiously scarred after their +fashion--for this custom of cutting stripes upon the body, as other +savages tattoo it, by way of ornament, seems universally to prevail +throughout Australia--as a convincing evidence that he, though now the +associate of the white man, belonged to the same country as themselves. +When Miago had, in some degree, recovered from his alarm--and their want +of all weapons no doubt tended to reassure him more than anything else, +he very sagaciously addressed them in English; shaking hands and saying, +"How do you do?" and then began to imitate their various actions, and +mimic their language, and so perfectly did he succeed that one of our +party could not be persuaded but that he really understood them; though +for this suspicion I am convinced there was in truth no foundation. In +general appearance this tribe differed but little from those we had +previously seen. They wore their hair straight, and tied behind in a rude +semblance of the modern queue; their beards were long, and two or three +among them were daubed with a kind of black ochre. All of them had lost +one of the front teeth, and several one finger joint;* in this particular +they differed from the natives seen in Roebuck Bay, amongst whom the +practice of this mutilation did not prevail. They were, I think, +travelling to the southward, at the time they fell in with us, for they +had no females among the party, by whom they are usually at other times +accompanied. The circumstance of their being unarmed may seem to militate +against the supposition that they were travelling, but it is to be borne +in mind that these people universally consider the absence of offensive +weapons as the surest test of peaceful intentions, and would therefore, +if they desired to maintain a friendly footing with the newcomers, most +probably deposit their arms in some place of concealment before they made +themselves visible. + +(*Footnote. A similar custom was noticed by Captain Cook at the Sandwich +Islands, where it was regarded as a propitiatory sacrifice to the Eatooa, +to avert his anger; and not to express, as the same mutilation does in +the Friendly Islands, grief for the loss of a friend.) + +NATIVE SMOKES. + +The coast seems pretty thickly populated between Roebuck and Beagle Bays; +as the smoke from native fires was constantly to be seen, but in all +cases these signs of human existence were confined to the neighbourhood +of the sea. The fishing proved unsuccessful, so we were fain to content +ourselves without the promised addition to our evening meal. We found the +tide rise here 18 feet. + +In the afternoon we reached another anchorage, some ten miles further to +the North-East. The coast along which we sailed within the distance of +two miles, was chiefly remarkable for its tall, dark-looking cliffs, with +here and there a small sandy bay intervening. We anchored under Point +Emeriau, so named by Captain Baudin, by whom it was mistaken for an +island; its tall, white cliffs, springing from and guarded by a base and +ledges of black rock, and tinged with red towards their summits, render +it a point not easily to be mistaken or forgotten by any who have once +seen it. Beyond this the coast curved away to the eastward, forming a +bight about eleven miles in length. + +January 26. + +Leaving our anchorage at daylight, we passed the north point of the bight +just mentioned soon after noon; it is a low black rugged cliffy point, +called Borda by the French, having a much more weather-beaten appearance +than would have been anticipated in this latitude. Behind it the country +rose obliquely, the horizon terminating in an inconsiderable, undulatory, +and well-wooded elevation. + +CAPE LEVEQUE. + +We passed another bight in the afternoon, the shores of which were low +and rocky, with a mangrove creek in its depth: from this bight the coast +becomes almost straight, the line being hardly broken by rocky points and +shallow sandy bays, to Cape Leveque, on the North-East side of which we +found an indifferent anchorage just before sunset. Cape Leveque is a red +cliffy point some sixty feet in height, with an islet of the same +character lying close off it. The latter bore from our anchorage in 5 +fathoms, South 56 degrees West 2 miles, and 4 1/2 West 20 degrees South +from the entrance point of the inviting opening, we were now about to +explore, with an interest rather stimulated than decreased by the want of +success that attended our examination of Roebuck Bay. + +POINT SWAN. + +This point was named by Captain King, Point Swan, in honour of Captain +Swan of the Cygnet, under whom Dampier first discovered it; and was an +appropriate tribute of respect and admiration, from one distinguished no +less than Dampier himself, by the possession of those qualities of +firmness, patience, judgment and perseverance, which make up the +character of the scientific and adventurous navigator, to him by whom he +had been preceded in Australian discovery. The country between Point Swan +and Cape Leveque has a very sandy and barren aspect; the hillocks near +the latter partook of its prevailing red colour. + +TIDE-RACES. + +January 27. + +We proceeded this morning in the direction of Point Swan, and remarked, +as we approached it, the heavy tide-race which used Captain King so +roughly, and which subsequent surveying operations enabled us to account +for, from great irregularity in the bottom, changing almost at once from +40 to 17 fathoms. We waited, having no wish to experience the full effect +of the current, for slack water, and thus passed round it quietly enough; +we anchored in a small bight, South 20 degrees West 1 1/2 miles from +Point Swan, in seven fathoms, which, as we rightly conjectured, would +leave us in three, at low-water.* + +(*Footnote. The following is Captain King's graphic account of his +encounter with this race: "On my way towards Point Swan, we saw from the +masthead a line of strong tide ripplings, extending from the Point in a +North-West by West direction, within which we at first attempted to pass; +but finding they were connected to the Point, hauled up to steer through +them where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached, the +noise was terrific; and although we were not more than two minutes +amongst the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent, as to +make us fearful for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would +perhaps have been swamped; for although the sea was in other parts quite +smooth, and the wind light, yet the water broke over the bows, and +strained the brig considerably.") + +As we had now arrived at the point from which we anticipated carrying on +our most important operations, it became of paramount interest to know +whether we could rely for that indispensable article, fresh water, upon +the resources of the wild and barbarous shores. The vast extent of +country; the delightful verdure which clothed great portions of it; nay, +even the evidences of a people living upon its shores, would, under any +other circumstances, and on any other coast, have been deemed +conclusively to decide this point in the affirmative: but the voyager +knows, from the best authority, that upon the coasts, and within the +heart of Australia, nature seems to delight in contradiction, and that +she is more than usually capricious with respect to the supply of what is +ordinarily her most common, as it is ever one of her most precious gifts. +A few wretched mud-holes might serve for a time to content the savages +trained to privation from their earliest infancy, but for ourselves it +was clear, either that a reasonable supply of fresh water must be found +here, or we must not calculate upon remaining beyond the time which would +leave us sufficient to proceed to Hanover Bay, where this most needful +commodity was, upon the authority of Captain King, to be found. + +SEARCH FOR WATER. + +No sooner, therefore, was the Beagle properly secured in her new berth, +than a party was despatched in the boats to commence a search for water, +and to fix upon a spot for carrying on the necessary observations: +scarcely, however, had we pushed off from alongside, before the white +ensign at our main warned us that the natives were in sight from the +ship,* and, on turning our eyes to the shore, we beheld it thronged with +savages: the rapidity of whose movements, as they shouted in apparent +defiance, brandishing their spears, and whirling their arms round and +round with windmill-like velocity, as though to threaten our advance, +rendered it impossible to estimate their number with any confidence, but +they were evidently in considerable force. However, we pulled to the +shore, a measure against which the valiant Miago stoutly protested, and +landed in a position not directly commanded by the natives. They made no +attempt to prevent us, but anxious to avoid hostilities--in every event +almost equally deplorable--we deferred any distant search for water; and +having fixed on a spot for our temporary observatory, returned to the +ship. + +(*Footnote. This signal was always made when natives were seen from the +ship, if any parties were away.) + +January 27. + +A strong party was sent on shore, early this morning, with the necessary +tools for digging a well, should the search for water upon the surface +prove abortive. It was at once found that this operation ought forthwith +to be commenced, and accordingly a promising spot was selected in a +valley not half a mile from the sea. The natives mustered again in force +upon the heights, and seemed to watch our proceedings with the greatest +interest: we saw nothing of them the following day, but on the third they +seemed so much emboldened by our inoffensive proceedings, that they +approached so near as to keep the party pretty much upon the alert. + +FIRE A CONGREVE ROCKET. + +It was, therefore, determined, lest familiarity should breed contempt, to +give them a hint of our superiority without inflicting any injury upon +their persons or property; and, accordingly, shortly after dark we fired +a Congreve rocket from the ship, and in a direction immediately over +their presumed position: this had the desired effect, and our +well-digging operations, though ultimately unsuccessful, proceeded +without further annoyance. + +CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. + +Two or three days afterwards a small party came down upon the beach while +we were hauling the seine; and tempted by the offer of some fish--for an +Australian savage is easily won by him who comes with things that do show +so fair as delicacies in the gastronomic department--they approached us, +and were very friendly in their manner, though they cunningly contrived +always to keep the upper or inland side of the beach. We made them some +presents of beads, etc. from the stores supplied by the Admiralty for +that purpose, but they received them with an indifference almost +amounting to apathy. They very closely examined the heroic Miago, who +submitted to be handled by these much-dreaded Northern men with a very +rueful countenance, and afterwards construed the way in which one of them +had gently stroked his beard, into an attempt to take him by the throat +and strangle him! an injury and indignity which, when safe on board, he +resented by repeated threats, uttered in a sort of wild chant, of +spearing their thighs, backs, loins, and, indeed, each individual portion +of the frame. + +PLAGUE OF FLIES. + +Their habit of keeping the eyes almost closed, and the head thrown back, +in order to avoid the plague of flies, under which this country seems to +suffer, adds to the unpleasant expression of their countenance, and quite +justifies the correctness of Dampier's account: "Their eyelids are always +half-closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes, they being so +troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one's +face; and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off, they +will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shut +very close; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with these +insects, they do never open their eyes as do other people, and therefore +they cannot see far unless they hold up their heads, as if they were +looking at somewhat over them." We found constant occasion, when on +shore, to complain of this fly nuisance; and when combined with their +allies, the mosquitoes, no human endurance could, with any patience, +submit to the trial. The flies are at you all day, crawling into your +eyes, up your nostrils, and down your throat, with the most irresistible +perseverance; and no sooner do they, from sheer exhaustion, or the loss +of daylight, give up the attack, than they are relieved by the musquitos, +who completely exhaust the patience which their predecessors have so +severely tried. It may seem absurd to my readers to dwell upon such a +subject; but those, who, like myself, have been half-blinded, and to +boot, almost stung to death, will not wonder, that even at this distance +of time and place, I recur with disgust to the recollection. + +The natives, in all parts of the continent alike, seem to possess very +primitive notions upon the subject of habitation; their most comfortable +wigwams hardly deserve the name: not even in the neighbourhood of English +settlements are they beginning in any degree to imitate our European +notions of comfort. Among these northern people, the only approach to +anything like protection from the skiey influences that I could discover, +was a slight rudely thatched covering, placed on four upright poles, +between three and four feet high. + +Another, of a much superior description, which I visited on the western +shore of King's Sound, will be found delineated in that part of my +journal to which the narrative belongs. + +WIND AND WEATHER. + +February 10. + +We remained at this anchorage until the 10th of February, in consequence +of a continuance of bad weather; indeed, the rain during the three first +days of that month was at times of the most monsoon-like character, while +the wind, constantly blowing very fresh, kept veering from North-West to +South-West. Every now and then, by way of agreeable variety, a heavy +squall would take us from South-South-West, though more commonly from +West-South-West. The only certainty that we could calculate upon, was, +that at North-North-West the wind would remain when it got there, +stationary for a few hours. The thunder and lightning, the former loud +and with a long reverberating peal, and the latter of the most intensely +vivid kind, were constantly roaring and flashing over our heads; and, +with the stormy echoes which the rolling deep around woke on these +unknown and inhospitable shores, completed a scene that I shall never +cease to remember, as I never then beheld it without mingled emotions of +apprehension and delight. The rain, however, certainly befriended us in +more ways than one: it cooled the atmosphere, which would else have been +insufferably hot, diminished for a time the number and virulence of our +winged tormentors, and recruited our stock of fresh water; for, though +ultimately we were not obliged to have recourse to it as a beverage, it +did exceedingly well for washing purposes. We had also, during this time, +one most successful haul with the seine, which amply supplied us with +fresh fish for that and the two following days; the greater part were a +kind of large mullet, the largest weighed six pounds five ounces, and +measured twenty-five inches in length. + +TIDAL PHENOMENON. + +On the same day we remarked, owing to the North-West wind, a singular +phenomenon in the tides here. From half-ebb to high-water the stream +wholly ceased, and the water being heaped up in the bay by the force of +the wind, fell only sixteen, instead of twenty-four feet. + +Several sporting excursions were made during this period, but with +comparatively little success. It is not a country naturally very abundant +in game of any kind, except kangaroos, which are numerous, but so +harassed by the natives as to be of course extremely shy of the approach +of man. + +SINGULAR KANGAROO. + +However, Mr. Bynoe succeeded in shooting one which possessed the singular +appendage of a nail, like that on a man's little finger, attached to the +tail. + +I regret that we had no subsequent opportunity to decide whether this was +one of a new species of the Macropodidae family, or a mere lusus naturae. +The dimensions and height of this singular animal were as follows:* + +Length of body from tip of nose: 22 inches. +Length of tail from stump to tip: 24 1/2 inches. +Weight: 13 pounds. + +(*Footnote. This animal has been classed by Mr. Gould as Macropus +unguifer, and is now deposited in the British Museum. One precisely +similar was afterwards killed on the east coast of the gulf of +Carpentaria.) + +We also saw some very large red or cinnamon-coloured kangaroos, but never +got near enough to secure one; they were apparently identical with a new +race, of which I afterwards procured a specimen at Barrow's Island.* + +(*Footnote. Osphranter isabellinus. Gould.) + +One day, when I had penetrated some considerable distance into the bush, +farther indeed than any of our party had strayed before, I saw a large +bustard, but was unable to get a shot at him; his anxious and acute gaze +had detected me, at the same moment that I had discovered him, and he was +off. I thought at the time that he bore a strong resemblance to the wild +turkey of the colonists in the southern parts of the continent. We were +lucky enough to shoot several quails of apparently quite a new species. +In one particular they differed from the members of the genus Coturnis, +in having no hind toe. Goannas and lizards were plentiful in this +neighbourhood, and some of the latter in particular were most brilliant +in colour: they ran down the tall trees, in which they seem to pass a +great portion of their lives, at our approach, with a most marvellous +rapidity, and darting along the ground, were soon in safety. + +ANTHILLS. + +But what, perhaps, most attracted our attention, was the very surprising +size of the anthills, or nests. I measured one, the height of which was +13 feet, and width at the base 7 feet; from whence it tapered gradually +to the apex. They are composed of a pale red earth; but how it is +sufficiently tempered, I am unable to state; certain is it, that it has +almost the consistence of mortar, and will bear the tread of a man upon +the top. + +FISH. + +The fishing over the ship's side was not less successful than hauling the +seine; though quite a different kind of fish was taken to reward the +labour of the saltwater Waltonians, who devoted themselves to it. They +generally secured (at slack water) a large fish, in shape like a bream, +and with long projecting teeth. + +February 6. + +We made up a party on the 6th for the purpose of penetrating a little way +into the interior, and got seven miles from the sea in a South by West +direction. Everything wore a green and most delightful appearance; but +the reader must bear in mind, how vegetation had just been forced by +heavy rains upon a light, heated soil, and also recollect that to one who +has been pent up for some time on board ship a very barren prospect may +seem delightful. + +NATIVE FIRES. + +The country was more open in character than I had before noticed it, and +the numerous traces of native fires which we found in the course of the +excursion, seemed readily to account for this: indeed during dry seasons +it not unfrequently happens, that an immense tract of land is desolated +with fire, communicated, either by the design or carelessness of the +natives, to the dry herbage on the surface. The moment the flame has been +kindled it only waits for the first breath of air to spread it far and +wide: then on the wings of the wind, the fiery tempest streams over the +hillsides and through the vast plains and prairies: bushwood and +herbage--the dry grass--the tall reed--the twining parasite--or the giant +of the forest, charred and blackened, but still proudly erect--alike +attest and bewail the conquering fire's onward march; and the bleak +desert, silent, waste, and lifeless, which it leaves behind seems forever +doomed to desolation: vain fear! the rain descends once more upon the dry +and thirsty soil, and from that very hour which seemed the date of +cureless ruin, Nature puts forth her wondrous power with increased +effort, and again her green and flower-embroidered mantle decks the earth +with a new beauty! + +SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. + +The soil of the extensive plain over which we journeyed this day, was +light and sandy in character, but the large amount of vegetable matter +which it contains, and the effect of the late rains, which had penetrated +some 24 or 30 inches into it, made us perhaps somewhat overvalue its real +merits. This plain rose gradually before us until it reached an elevation +of 180 feet above the level of the sea, and was covered with a long, thin +grass, through which the startled kangaroo made off every now and then at +a killing pace. + +The face of the country was well but not too closely covered with +specimens of the red and white gum, and paperbark tree, and several +others. The timber was but small, the diameter of the largest, a red gum, +18 inches. + +Ever and anon the sparkling brilliant lizards darted down from their +resting places among the boughs, so rapid in their fearful escape, that +they caught the eye more like a flash of momentary light, than living, +moving forms. We flushed in the course of the day a white bird, or at +least nearly so, with a black ring round the neck, and a bill crooked +like the ibis, which bird indeed, except in colour, it more resembles +than any I have ever seen.* + +(*Footnote. Since ascertained to be an Ibis--the Threskiornis +strictipennis.) + +Among the trees seen in the course of this ramble, I had almost forgotten +to mention one which struck me more than any other from its resemblance +to a kind of cotton tree, used by the natives of the South Sea islands in +building their canoes. + +February 7. + +The day following we secured several boat-loads of rainwater, deposited +in the holes of the rocks, near our temporary observatory, and were the +better pleased with our success, as our well-digging had proved +unsuccessful. + +GEOLOGY OF THE CLIFFS. + +There was something particularly striking in the geological formation of +the cliffs that form the western side of this bay: and which rise from 70 +to 90 feet in height, their bases apparently resting amid huge and +irregular masses of the same white sandstone as that which forms the +cliffs themselves, and from which this massive debris, strewn in all +conceivable irregularity and confusion around, appears to have been +violently separated by some great internal convulsion. + +Some of these great masses, both of the living cliff and ruined blocks +beneath, are strangely pierced with a vein or tube of vitreous matter, +not less in some instances than 18 inches in diameter. In every place the +spot at which this tube entered the rock was indicated by a considerable +extent of glazed or smelted surface; but I am not sufficiently versed in +the science of geology to offer any specific theory to account for the +appearances I have described: the cliffs were rent and cracked in a +thousand different ways, and taking into consideration their strange and +wrecked appearance, together with the fact that lightning is known to +vitrify sand, may we not thus get a clue to the real agency by which +these results have been produced?* + +(*Footnote. Since this was written, I have consulted my friend, Mr. +Darwin, who has kindly examined a specimen I brought away. He pronounces +it "a superficial highly ferrugineous sandstone, with concretionary veins +and aggregations." The reader should, however, consult Mr. Darwin's work +on the Geology of Volcanic Islands page 143.) + +WEIGH AND GRAZE ON A ROCK. + +February 10. + +The weather was thick and gloomy, and it rained fast; but, having +completed our survey and observations, and the wind being favourable, it +was resolved to get underweigh without further loss of time. + +In the very act of weighing, the ship's keel grazed a sunken rock, of the +existence of which, though we had sounded the bay, we had been, till that +moment, in ignorance! He only who has felt the almost animated shudder +that runs through the seemingly doomed ship at that fearful moment, can +understand with what gratitude we hailed our escape from the treacherous +foe. + +In passing out, we named two low small rocky islands, lying north of +Point Swan, and hitherto unhonoured with any particular denomination, the +Twins. It should be noted, that the tide did not begin to make to the +southward till 8 hours 15 minutes A.M., being full half an hour after +low-water by the shore. We passed through several tide races; not, +however, feeling their full force, owing to our encountering them at the +time of slack water. In every case our soundings indicated great +irregularity of bottom, the cause to which I have already assigned these +impediments to in-shore navigation. + +SUNDAY STRAIT. + +We found a temporary anchorage the same morning, on the east side of the +large group forming the eastern side of Sunday Strait; so named by +Captain King, who was drifted in and out of it on that day, August 19th, +1821, amid an accumulation of perils that will long render the first +navigation of this dangerous Archipelago a memorable event in the annals +of nautical hardihood. + +ROE'S GROUP. + +This group we called after Lieutenant Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General of +Western Australia, who had accompanied Captain King in that perilous +voyage, and whose valuable information had enabled us to escape so many +of the dangers to which our predecessors had been exposed. + +Nothing could exceed the desolate appearance of the land near which we +were now lying: rocks, of a primitive character, massed together in all +the variety of an irregularity, that rather reminded the beholder of +Nature's ruin than her grandeur, rose, drear and desolate, above the +surrounding waters; no trees shaded their riven sides, but the +water-loving mangrove clothed the base of this sterile island, and a +coarse, wiry grass was thinly spread over its sides. + +MIAGO AND HIS FRIENDS. + +Soon after we had anchored, some natives were observed by Miago watching +us from the shore; and shortly afterwards a party landed, to attempt +communicating with them, and to get the necessary observations for the +survey. In the first object they failed altogether; for these +blackfellows, as that gallant hero called them, retired to the heights, +and, while closely watching every movement, refused to trust themselves +within our reach. The smallness of their number, and their want of arms, +quite elevated the courage of Miago, who loudly vaunted his intention of +monopolizing a northern gin, in order to astonish his friends upon our +return to the south: stealing away the ladies being, as I have before +remarked, the crowning and most honourable achievement of which man, in +the eyes of these savages, is capable. I ought not to omit remarking +here, that the natives seen to-day were accompanied by a black dog; the +only instance in which, before or since, we observed the existence of a +dog of that colour in this vast country. Captain King mentions that he +saw one in this neighbourhood during his visit in 1821. + +DAY OF REST. + +The following day was Sunday, and, there being no absolute necessity to +shift our berth, we remained at anchor; marking the character of this +sacred festival, by giving it up to the crew, for healthful rest and +harmless recreation--after morning prayers had been performed--as much as +the needful discipline, upon a proper observance of which the efficiency +of a ship's company entirely depends, would allow. This practice, +constantly observed throughout our long voyage, was always attended with +the best results. + +Some rather small pigeons,* of a dark brown colour, marked with a white +patch on the wings, were seen, and some specimens shot. They made a +whirring sound in flight, like the partridge, and appeared to haunt the +rocks; a habit which all subsequent observation confirmed. + +(*Footnote. Petrophila albipennis. Gould.) + +February 12. + +Soon after daylight we left this anchorage, whose exact position I +mention, as it may be of use to some future voyager in these seas. The +eastern of the three islands north of Roe's group was just open of the +north point of the bight in which we lay, and a small rocky islet close +to the shore bore South-South-West one mile; we had five fathoms at +low-water in the bight, and twelve immediately outside. + +After making a stretch to the southward for about five miles, in +soundings varying from 20 to 25 fathoms, we again closed with the shore, +and anchored in five fathoms, on the south side of Roe's group, three +miles from our former anchorage. A party landed in the afternoon to +procure the requisite observations: the country was not quite so sterile, +nor its face of so rugged a character. + +NATIVE RAFT. + +We found nothing worth particular attention, except a native raft, the +first we had yet seen. It was formed of nine small poles pegged together, +and measured ten feet in length by four in breadth; the greatest diameter +of the largest pole was three inches. All the poles were of the palm +tree, a wood so light, that one man could carry the whole affair with the +greatest ease. By it there was a very rude double-bladed paddle. + +From a distant station I looked upon the dangerous and rapid current, +which divides two rocky islands, and the perils of which are fearfully +increased by the presence of an insulated rock in its centre, past which +(its fury only heightened by the opposition) the torrent hurries with +accelerated force. + +CAPTAIN KING AND THE BATHURST. + +It was by this fearful passage that Captain King entered this part of the +Sound, drifting towards apparently instant destruction, without a breath +of wind to afford him even a chance of steering between the various +perils that environed his devoted ship. As the Bathurst swept past the +neighbouring shores--covered with the strange forms of the howling +savages who seemed to anticipate her destruction, and absolutely within +the range of their spears--drifting with literally giddy rapidity towards +the fatal rocks, what varied thoughts must have flashed, crowding an age +within an hour, upon the mind of her commander? It seemed that all +evidence of what his own perseverance, the devotion of his officers, and +the gallantry of his crew, had accomplished for the honour of their +common country, would in a few brief moments be the prey of the rapid, +the spoil of the deep; and yet, while many a heart sent up its voiceless +prayer to HIM, whose arm is not shortened that it cannot save, believing +that prayer to be their last--not a cheek blanched--not an eye quailed! +But the loving-kindness of omnipotent mercy rested even upon that +solitary ship, and within a few yards of the fatal rock, one momentary +breath of wind, proved HIS providential care, for those from whom all +hope had fled! I shuddered as the events Captain King has recorded, rose +up in palpable distinctness to my view, and afterwards, in memory of that +day, called the channel Escape--to the sound itself we gave the name of +King's, in the full confidence that all for whom the remembrance of skill +and constancy and courage have a charm, will unite in thinking that the +career of such a man should not be without a lasting and appropriate +monument! + +February 13. + +It blew a violent gale the whole of this day from West-South-West, coming +on quite unexpectedly, for neither the state nor appearance of the +atmosphere gave us the least indication of its approach. Exposed on a +lee-shore, it may be imagined that we were by no means displeased to see +it as rapidly and inexplicably depart, as it had suddenly and +mysteriously appeared. + +POINT CUNNINGHAM. + +February 14. + +Leaving this anchorage we found another in a bay on the mainland, 12 +miles South from Point Swan, and 11 North-West from a remarkable headland +named by Captain King, Point Cunningham, in honour of that distinguished +botanist, whose zealous exertions have added so much to the Flora of +Australia. I well remember when we were preparing to sail from Sydney, in +May 1839, the scientific veteran seemed to enter with the utmost interest +into all the details of the coming adventure. And even, though the +natural force of that frame which had so often set danger at defiance, +while engaged in the ennobling pursuits to which his honourable career +had been devoted, was too palpably failing the mind whose dictates it had +so long obeyed; the fire of the spirit that had burned throughout so +brightly, seemed to leap up in yet more glowing flame, ere quenched +forever by the ashes of the grave! alas! within the brief period of two +months, the world had closed upon him for ever! + +SUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER. + +A point, fronting a small islet, almost joined to it at low-water, was +selected as a fitting spot for the commencement of our well-digging +operations, which we hoped to bring to a more successful termination than +our former attempt at Point Swan. After sinking to a depth of eight feet +our anticipations were fully justified, the water flowing in through the +sides in great abundance. It was quite fresh, and in every way most +acceptable to us all; but tinged as it was with the red colour of the +surrounding soil, we could at once perceive that it was only surface +water. As we watched it filling our neatly excavated well, we found no +great difficulty in understanding why, in this continent, a native speaks +of any very favoured district, as "Very fine country--much plenty +water--fine country;" thus comprehending in the certain supply of that +one necessary of life, the chief, nay almost the sole condition essential +to a happy land. + +SKELETON POINT. + +We named this Skeleton Point from our finding here the remains of a +native, placed in a semi-recumbent position under a wide spreading gum +tree, enveloped, or more properly, shrouded, in the bark of the papyrus. +All the bones were closely packed together, the larger being placed +outside, and the general mass surmounted by the head, resting on its +base, the fleshless, eyeless skull grinning horribly over the right side. +Some of the natives arrived shortly after we had discovered this curious +specimen of their mode of sepulture; but although they entertain peculiar +opinions upon the especial sanctity of the house appointed for all +living--a sanctity we certainly were not altogether justified in +disregarding--they made no offer of remonstrance at the removal of the +mortal remains of their dead brother. Whether here, as in the +neighbourhood of Fremantle, they regarded us as near kindred of their own +under a new guise, and so perhaps might suppose that we took away the dry +bones in order to rebuild the frame of which they before formed the +support, and to clothe the hideous nakedness of death with the white +man's flesh; or whether, deeming us indeed profane violators of that last +resting-place of suffering humanity, which it seems an almost instinctive +feeling to regard with reverence, they left the office of retribution +either to the spirit of the departed, or the more potent boyl-yas--to be +found upon the testimony of Miago in the wicked north--I know not; +certain it is that under the superintendence of Mr. Bynoe the removal was +effected, and that the skeleton itself, presented by that officer to +Captain Grey, was by him bestowed upon the Royal College of Surgeons, in +whose museum it is now to be found. + +Among the ornithological specimens obtained here was one of the curlew +tribe, greatly resembling an ibis, and remarkable for its size. It +measured from the extremity of the bill to the tip of the toe 27 1/2 +inches, and weighed 1 pound 14 1/2 ounces. The colour, with the exception +of the belly and legs, which were of a dirty white slightly mottled, very +much resembled that of the common English wild duck. + +KILEYS. + +One of the natives seen to-day had with him a kiley, so different in +shape to any we had previously seen that I preserved a sketch of it. All +the party wore their hair tied up behind, and each had suffered the loss +of one of the front teeth in the upper jaw: and some had endured an +extraordinary mutilation; apparently in exaggeration of an ancient Jewish +rite. In general appearance they resembled the natives previously seen at +Point Swan. + +OUR PARTING LEGACY. + +They appeared to luxuriate in the water we had found, wondered at the +size of our well, and expressed the greatest admiration of our skill in +thus procuring this needful article; and I do not doubt but that long +after every other recollection of our visit shall have passed away, this +beneficial memorial of it will perpetuate the visit of H.M.S. Beagle, to +this part of the great continent of Australia. + + +CHAPTER 1.6. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER. + +Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham. +Move the Ship. +Mosquitoes. +Southern View of King's Sound. +Singular vitreous Formation. +Move to the south of Point Cunningham. +Captain King's limit. +Termination of Cliffy Range. +Disaster Bay. +An Exploring Party leave in the boats. +The shore. +A freshwater lake. +Valentine Island. +Native Fire and Food. +A heavy squall. +The wild Oat. +Indications of a River. +Point Torment. +Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit. +Limits of its growth. +Another squall. +Water nearly fresh alongside. +The Fitzroy River. +Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl. +Ascent of the Fitzroy. +Appearance of the adjacent land. +Return on foot. +Perilous situation and providential escape. +Survey the western shore. +Return to the Ship. +Sporting, Quail and Emus. +Natives. +Ship moved to Point Torment. + +February 21, 1838. + +We remained at this sheltered anchorage until the 21st, by which time the +coast, so far as Point Cunningham, had been carefully examined. We found +it everywhere indented with deep bays, in each of which good anchorage +was to be found. The water's edge was in almost every place fringed with +the closely twining mangrove trees, behind which the country gradually +rose to an average level of about 200 feet, being thickly covered with +the various sorts of Eucalypti, for which all the explored portions of +this continent are more or less remarkable. + +In the afternoon of the 21st, we moved into a bay North-West of Point +Cunningham, and anchored in 8 fathoms (low-water) about a mile North-West +from that point; having passed over a bank of 5 or 6 fathoms, with 12 on +its outer, and 10 on its inner side, and lying 2 1/4 miles north from +Point Cunningham. + +MOSQUITOES. + +I spent the early part of this night on shore, a circumstance of which +the tormenting mosquitoes took every possible advantage; finally driving +me from their territory with every indignity, and in a state of mind +anything but placid. The poet doubtless spoke from experience when he +asserted: + +--there was never yet philosopher +That could endure the toothache patiently. + +And even could such a prodigy of patient endurance be found, I am sure it +would fail him when exposed to the ceaseless persecution of these +inexorable assailants. + +February 22. + +The greater part of to-day was spent in making a more minute examination +of the bay, the shoal discovered yesterday rendering a more careful +search necessary. From the summit of Point Cunningham, I had a fine view +of the opposite shore of the sound; very broken and rugged it appeared to +be. To the South-East and south I could see no land; a circumstance which +raised my hopes of finding in that direction the long and anxiously +expected river, which the geological formation of the country, and all +the recorded experience of discovery, alike warranted us in anticipating. +The point upon which I stood was a steep and cliffy rock facing the sea, +connected with the mainland by a low and narrow neck of land, but almost +insulated at high-water during the spring tides. A singular cliff, +projecting on its South-East side, is called by Captain King, Carlisle +Head; but we searched in vain for the fresh water, which that +distinguished navigator speaks of, as having been found there by him in +1819. + +SINGULAR VITREOUS FORMATION. + +We remarked here, certain vitreous formations, in all, except form, +identical with those already described as having been seen at Point Swan. +These were small balls lying loose on the sandy beach, at the bottom of +the cliff; they were highly glazed upon the surface, hollow inside, and +varying in size from a musket, to a tennis ball.* + +(*Footnote. Vide Mr. Darwin on "superficial ferrugineous beds" Geology of +Volcanic Islands page 143.) + +February 23. + +We weighed early in the morning, and rounded Point Cunningham; anchoring +again at 10 o'clock A.M., 8 miles north of it, in 7 fathoms (low-water); +West by North, one mile from where we lay, a red cliffy head, called by +Captain King, in memory of the difficulties which ultimately compelled +him to leave this interesting coast, Foul Point, marks the limit of his +survey of this part of the northern shore of Australia, and terminates +the range of cliffs,* which, up to this point, forms nature's barrier +against the sea. Beyond it, the coast assumes a low and treacherous +character, and subsides into a deep bay, called by Captain King, not +without reason, Disaster Bay. + +(*Footnote. The cliffs at Foul Point and Point Cunningham unite the +sandstone and argillaceous formation.) + +From the masthead, from whence I hoped to get a wide view of the unknown +waters we were about to explore, I could just see Valentine Island, +bearing South-South-East about 17 miles. Its lofty extremities alone +being visible, it had the appearance of two islands. + +Here, then, a really most interesting--nay, a most exciting--portion of +the duties of the survey were to commence in earnest; and it was reserved +for us to take up the thread of discovery reluctantly abandoned by our +enterprising and scientific predecessor, at the moment when the prize was +almost within his grasp. + +EXPLORING PARTY IN BOATS. + +It was forthwith determined, that Captain Wickham and Mr. Fitzmaurice +should collect the necessary materials for completing the survey, and +preparing the chart of the bay in the immediate neighbourhood of the +ship; while to myself the whale boat and yawl were to be entrusted; nor +can I describe with what delight, all minor annoyances forgotten, I +prepared to enter upon the exciting task of exploring waters unfurrowed +by any preceding keel; and shores, on which the advancing step of +civilization had not yet thrown the shadows of her advent, nor the voice +of that Christianity, which walks by her side through the uttermost parts +of the earth, summoned the wilderness and the desert to hail the +approaching hour, in the fulness of which all the earth shall be blessed! + +Soon after dark we were visited by a squall from the eastward, longer in +duration, and heavier than any we had before experienced. From our +exposed situation--no land intervening for 30 miles--it raised a good +deal of sea: the wind remained fresh at the east during the greater part +of the night. + +February 24. + +The morning broke, dark, gloomy, and threatening; but, as the day +advanced, it gradually assumed its usual bright and brilliant character; +and at seven A.M. we started, Mr. Helpman having the whaleboat, while Mr. +Tarrant accompanied me in the yawl. We crossed Disaster Bay in four and +five fathoms, steering in the direction of Valentine Island, and inside a +long sandy spit, partly dry at low-water, and extending two-thirds of the +way across. + +FRESHWATER LAKE. + +While waiting for the tide to rise, in order to cross this natural +breakwater, we landed, and struggled for a good mile through a mixture of +deep mud and sand, drifted, at the coastline, into hills of from +twenty-five to thirty feet high, and bound together by a long coarse +grass; immediately beyond which we came upon a small lake of fresh water, +where all the luxuriant growth of tropical vegetation was starting into +life, and presenting an almost miraculous contrast to the barren +sterility, that stamped an aspect of changeless desolation upon the rest +of this inhospitable shore. Indeed, so far as our experience extended, +upon the coasts, and within the interior of this in many respects +extraordinary continent, the want of water appears to be the chief +drawback to the fertility otherwise to be anticipated from its +geographical position: at the same time, it is quite impossible to blind +oneself to the fact, that further researches on the one hand, and the +application of the great discoveries in hydraulics, of which recent years +have been so fruitful, on the other, may, and probably will, spread the +vernal bloom of cultivation over wastes, now condemned to prolonged and +arbitrary periods of drought. + +This spot, which long arrested my attention, and upon which I gazed with +the selfish feeling of delight inspired by the thought that thereon never +before had rested the curious eye of any restless and indefatigable +wanderer from the west, is distant about 500 yards North-North-West, from +a solitary patch of low red cliffs, the first of this formation that +present themselves south of Foul Point. + +VALENTINE ISLAND. + +Extensive flats fronting the coast to the southward, almost connect it at +low-water with Valentine Island, which we reached at two P.M., just on +the top of high-water, and shortly afterwards grounded the boats in a +small bay to the westward. The greatest extent of Valentine Island is +three-quarters of a mile in an East by South direction: either extremity +is formed by high cliffs, a low valley intervening. + +NATIVE FIRE AND FOOD. + +On landing we found a fire still burning, near the beach, and beside it a +bundle of the bark of the papyrus tree, in which were carefully packed a +quantity of ground nuts, they were each about three-quarters of an inch +long, and in shape not unlike a kidney potato;* it seemed clear, judging +from the native value of the commodities thus rashly abandoned, that our +arrival had rather taken by surprise these untutored children of the +wilderness: we saw nothing of them till we had reembarked, when (four or +five only in number) they returned to the beach; and we could perceive +that our foot tracks, upon which they appeared to hold an animated +debate, had, to say the least, mightily puzzled them. I ascended the +highest point of the island in the afternoon, and from thence looked over +several miles of densely wooded country, but offering no appearance of +land to the eastward of South-South-East. We gazed with indescribable +delight upon the wide expanse of open water which lay before us in that +direction, and already anticipated the discovery of some vast inlet, +terminating in the mouth of a magnificent river, upon the exploration of +which our imagination was already busily engaged; nor for the moment did +the thought, or rather the recollection of the fact, that Captain King +had seen land (by refraction) in that quarter, serve to damp our ardour. +When it made its way, and perseveringly insisted upon engaging a certain +share of my attention, its presence only added an additional motive to my +previous determination to set the question at rest by personal +examination, and in the interim, to look immediately before sunrise (when +the atmosphere within the tropics is always clear) for the very sight I +should have been most disappointed to have beheld. During the afternoon I +shot over the island, and enjoyed some very fair sport; especially with +the pheasant-cuckoo,** and quail, large and small, which were numerous: +several birds not unlike the so-called crow of the Swan River colonists +were seen. We found no fresh water, but in addition to the abundance of +game, the presence of the natives, proves the island to be not wholly +destitute of this first requisite of life. The thermometer at 3 P.M., was +100 degrees in the shade, while the unnatural calm that reigned around +gave the experienced seaman plain warning of some disturbance at hand. + +(*Footnote. This esculent appeared to resemble the warran, or yam, used +for food by the native inhabitants north of Swan River.) + +(**Footnote. Centropus phasianellus. Gould.) + +A HEAVY SQUALL. + +Just before sunset these anxious anticipations proved correct: a mass of +broad edged white clouds rose rapidly in the east, and spread over the +till then unbroken blue of the vast vault above; among or rather behind +the interstices of these clouds, the lightning quivered and flashed +fearfully and fitfully, gleaming with a terrible distinctness in the +fading light of expiring day! Anon, darker and more ominous clouds +succeeded to the first, and quickly uniting seemed to span all heaven +with a frowning arch, that came rapidly onwards upon the wings of the +now-rising tempest. It was some time ere its approach either attracted +the attention or disturbed the boisterous mirth of the boats' crews, who, +with the enviable philosophy of their class, were gaily laughing over the +incidents of the day. I had just secured a good latitude by Canopus, when +the squall burst upon us from East-South-East, it blew very hard indeed +for about an hour, veering round to, and terminating at, North-East, and +then all was calm again; partaking of the general characteristics of +previous visitations of the same kind, to which we have been subject +since our arrival upon this coast, it lasted for a much less time, as +hitherto their average duration had been about three hours. It brought +the thermometer down to 80 degrees. All was quiet by midnight, and +undisturbed by the past we finished the night in peace. Daybreak found us +at the eastern end of the island, from which point we observed a low +strip of land bearing east about 16 miles distant; a fact which +re-establishes Captain King's authority, against Mr. Earle's +contradiction.* This confirmation of that distinguished and able +navigator, in some degree reconciled me to the unpropitious discovery, +that the shores of this great sheet of water were visibly beginning to +contract. + +(*Footnote. Vide Earle's Eastern Seas page 451.) + +WILD OAT. + +During our walk we noticed the wild oat in great abundance. This valuable +species of corn is then indigenous to this part of the world. Ere long, +perhaps, the time will arrive when upon the coast, where now in native +negligence it springs and dies, it may spread the white and glistening +garment of cultivation--testify the existence--and promote the comfort of +social life. The same seed was found near Hanover Bay, by Lieutenants +Grey and Lushington, and throve exceedingly well in the soft and +luxurious climate of the ever-verdant Mauritius. Leaving some presents in +a conspicuous situation for the present rightful possessors of the +island, whose temporary shelter we had obtained, we hastened back to the +boats, and stood away to the eastward for the low land seen from the +island, and crossed various narrow sandy ridges, nearly dry at low-water, +and generally trending North and South, showing the direction of the +stream by which they were formed, and at distances of 5, 7, 9, and 12 +miles, in an East by South direction from Valentine Island; the soundings +between them averaged from 7 to 9 fathoms. A favouring breeze from the +south helped us halfway across to the point, from whence I hoped and +believed we should hereafter date the first great event of the voyage; +and then dying away, compelled us to take to the oars, with the +thermometer at 110 degrees in the shade. + +INDICATIONS OF A RIVER. + +As we proceeded, several circumstances concurred to satisfy me that we +were at length really approaching the mouth of a considerable river; +large trees drifted past us with the ebbing tide, while each cast of the +lead proved that we were gradually, though nearing the land, deepening +the water. + +POINT TORMENT. + +Fortune too seemed now resolved to favour us, the deep channel most +opportunely lying along the eastern shore, which we reached soon after +noon, and landed on the only beach of sand hereabouts left uncovered at +high-water. Here, for better security against the squalls we had +experienced for the last two nights, we hauled up the boats. A name was +soon found for our new territory, upon which we with rueful unanimity +conferred that of Point Torment, from the incessant and vindictive +attacks of swarms of mosquitoes, by whom it had evidently been resolved +to give the newcomers a warm welcome. The greater part of Point Torment +is deeply intersected with deep narrow creeks, and is almost entirely +flooded at high-water: it extends low and swampy for nearly three miles +in breadth, and then rises gradually, the slope being well wooded with +the white Eucalypti. Here also I remarked the gouty-stem tree, figured by +Captain Grey, and described by Captain King, as of the Nat. Ord. +Capparides, and thought to be a Capparis; it also bears a resemblance to +the Adansonia described in Captain Tuckey's Congo. This was but a small +specimen in fruit, of which the following brief description may convey a +tolerably clear idea. In shape it something resembled the coconut, with a +gourd-like outside, of a brown and yellow colour. Its length was five +inches, and diameter three. The shell was exceedingly thin, and when +opened it was found to be full of seeds, imbedded in a whitish pulp, and +of a not ungrateful taste. + +This place, latitude 17 degrees 5 minutes South, may be considered the +limit of its growth in that direction, and the Victoria River, of which I +shall have occasion to speak hereafter, in latitude 14 degrees 55 +minutes, the northern boundary of its indigenous empire. + +We saw no traces of inhabitants, not even the thin rising smoke, which so +often greeted our eyes near the coast we had recently surveyed. I climbed +the highest tree we could find, and from the elevation it afforded looked +southwards over a wide prospect of nothing but mangroves and mudbanks; +still interesting from the fact that upon them the wondering gaze of the +curious European had never yet been bent! + +THE MOSQUITOES. + +Procuring the necessary observations completed the duties of the day; +but, alas! the sleep all could have enjoyed so much after our work, was +rendered impossible by the swarms of mosquitoes, who at sunset relieved +those of their tribe upon whom the day duty had devolved, and commenced a +most unsparing attack upon us: all devices to escape them were tried in +vain, and some of the men were really half mad with the insufferable +annoyance: at last, about eight o'clock, when all patience seemed +exhausted, a welcome peal of thunder, and bright flashes of lightning +announced the expected and much desired squall. It served to blow away +some of our persecutors; but our rest was of very short duration, and I +was at length compelled to order the people to take to the boats, fairly +driven from the shore by our diminutive but invincible assailants. The +tide set past the boats at the rate of four knots per hour, and it fell +33 feet, being 6 feet more than we had as yet found it. The only rock +seen here was a block, visible at low-water; it was a conglomerate, and +the most southerly formation of the kind we met with. + +THE FLOOD-TIDE. + +February 26. + +The daylight found us all anxiously speculating upon the probable results +to be accomplished before the darkness once more closed in upon us, but +the morning being perfectly calm, we were compelled to wait till the +flood-tide made: this soon took us past an island four miles from the +eastern shore, seen the evening before, and which now proved to be a +narrow strip, covered with the never-failing mangrove; and having two +smaller islands, nearly identical in character, lying two miles south of +it. We passed them at noon, and saw the land to the westward, our +position being then 20 miles south of Point Torment. The water had +shoaled in several places during the passage to less than a fathom +(low-water); but the tide hemmed in by the contraction of this great +inlet (the left shore of which gradually trending to the eastward, here +approached to within six miles of the opposite coast) still hurried us on +with a rapidity agreeable enough but not quite free from danger, towards +what appeared to be the mouth of a large river. If our exultation had +been great in the morning, when such success as this was only half +anticipated, what was it at that exciting moment when the eventful hour +which should give us the triumph of such a discovery as that we now +fairly anticipated, seemed within our grasp? I cannot answer for others, +but for myself I had never known a sensation of greater delight. Doubt, +disappointment, difficulty, and danger; all, all were unheeded or +forgotten in the one proud thought that for us was reserved an enterprise +the ultimate results of which might in some future year affect the +interests of a great portion of the world! Presently, as if to recall to +their routine of duty, these upward-springing thoughts, the boats were +found to be rapidly carried by the stream towards an extensive flat, +which appeared to extend right across the opening towards which all eyes +had been turned with so much eagerness, and over which the tide was +boiling and whirling with great force. To attempt to cross would have +been madness; there was nothing, therefore, to be done but patiently +await the rising of the tide. + +ESCAPE POINT. + +The nearest land, a mangrove point bearing South-South-East one mile, we +afterwards named Escape Point, in grateful memory of the providential +escapes we experienced in its vicinity. Where the boats were anchored we +had nearly five feet at low-water, and the tide ran past them at the rate +of five miles an hour. As soon as possible we again started, in a south +by west direction, and proceeded for about five miles, when the boats +were anchored, near the western shore, which we proposed to visit at +low-water. From the yawl's masthead I traced the shore all round, except +to the south-east, where I could see an opening about a mile wide. The +western land was slightly elevated, perhaps to 70 feet, and clothed with +rather large trees, while to the eastward the land appeared very low. As +the tide ebbed, we found, to our disappointment and mortification, that +the flat over which we reckoned to secure a passage to the mainland, +never became quite dry (the tide here falling only 18 feet) while from +its soft and treacherous character, it was impossible to cross it on +foot. + +MOUTH OF THE FITZROY. + +All doubt about our being in the mouth of a river was put an end to by +finding that, during the last of the ebb, the water was nearly fresh. +This discovery was hailed by us all with a pleasure which persons only +familiar with the well-watered and verdant fields of England cannot fully +comprehend. + +Our success afforded me a welcome opportunity of testifying to Captain +Fitzroy my grateful recollection of his personal kindness; and I +determined, with Captain Wickham's permission, to call this new river +after his name, thus perpetuating, by the most durable of monuments, the +services and the career of one, in whom, with rare and enviable +prodigality, are mingled the daring of the seaman, the accomplishments of +the student, and the graces of the Christian--of whose calm fortitude in +the hour of impending danger, or whose habitual carefulness for the +interests of all under his command, if I forbear to speak, I am silent +because, while I recognise their existence, and perceive how much they +exalt the character they adorn, I feel, too, that they have elevated it +above, either the need, or the reach of any eulogy within my power to +offer! + +I felt pretty confident that the first rush of the tide upon its reflux +would be violent, and had made preparation accordingly. In the first +watch these anticipations were realized, and I was roused from a +momentary doze by a loud roaring, which I at once recognized to be the +voice of thunder, heralding the advancing tide. + +TIDE-BORE. + +The night was pitch dark, and though I instinctively turned my eyes +towards the offing, I could see nothing, but as each anxious moment +passed away, the fearful voice of the waters sounded nearer and nearer, +and within less time than I have occupied in the narration, the full +force of the rush of tide coming on like a wall, several feet high, and +bringing our anchor away with it, was upon us. The cable thus slackened, +the yawl sheered, and was thrown violently upon her broadside in the +midst of it, and had it not been for the shores lashed to each mast, she +must inevitably have capsized. The whaleboat fared better; being lighter +she was the sooner afloat, and besides her buoyant bow was the better +able to receive and resist the shock. When the tide slacked we returned +to the deep water off Escape Point, and spent the remainder of the night +in quiet, I would fain hope, so far as most of us were concerned, not +without a thankful remembrance of Him, whose merciful providence had been +so recently manifested in our behalf! + +ASCENT OF THE FITZROY. + +February 27. + +Leaving Mr. Tarrant in charge of the yawl, I proceeded with Mr. Helpman +to trace the river, immediately after daylight. Against the last of the +ebb tide, and with the thermometer at 80 degrees, we contrived to reach a +spot two miles beyond Point Escape before noon. From Point Escape +upwards, there appeared to be, at low-water, no regular channel; the bed +of the river assumed the aspect of an extensive flat of mud, intersected +with small rivulets or streams that served to drain it. No signs of human +habitation were seen along its banks, which divided by numerous small +creeks, and thickly fringed with the unfailing mangrove, stretched away +in level and drear monotony, only broken towards the west by land of +inconsiderable elevation. The circling flight of the ever-wary curlew, +and the shrill cry of the plover, now first disturbed in their accustomed +territory, alone vouched for the presence of animal life in that vast +solitude, the effect of which they heightened, rather than removed! + +RETURN ON FOOT. + +Finding the further ascent almost if not altogether impracticable at the +present state of the tide, I ordered the boat back to Point Escape, and +landed, accompanied by Mr. Helpman, and a seaman, intending to return on +foot. + +PERILOUS SITUATION. + +The shore was a soft mud, in which the small mangroves had found a most +congenial soil: while our journey every now and then, arrested by the +intervention of one or other of the numerous little creeks of which I +have before spoken, promised to prove a more fatiguing, if not more +hazardous affair, than we had originally contemplated. + +We managed at first, by ascending their banks for a short distance from +the river, to jump across these opposing creeks, but as the tide rose, +they filled and widened in proportion, and each moment increased the +difficulties of our position, now heightened by the untoward discovery +that William Ask, the seaman who had accompanied us, was unable to swim! + +Time and tide, however, wait for no man, and the rapidly rising waters +had flooded the whole of the low land which formed this bank of the +river, so that we were compelled to wade, feeling with a stick for the +edges of the creeks in our route, over each of which Mr. Helpman and +myself had alternately to swim in order to pass the arms undamaged; and +then Ask, making the best jump that he could muster for the occasion, was +dragged ashore on the opposite side. At length we reached a creek, the +breadth of which rendered this mode of proceeding no longer practicable, +and we were compelled to stop, being fortunately very near the point +where I had directed the boat to meet us. Our situation was now anything +but pleasant, the water being already above our knees, and the tide +having still several hours to rise; while the mangrove trees by which we +were surrounded, were all too slender to afford the least support. + +In this state of affairs, leaving Mr. Helpman with Ask--who had secured a +piece of drift timber as a last resource--I made my way to the edge of +the shore, only to find that the boat, unable to stem the current, had +anchored some distance above us! Mr. Helpman and myself might have +reached her by swimming; but even could I have easily reconciled myself +to part with our arms and instruments, at any rate to abandon poor Ask in +the dilemma into which I had brought him was not to be thought of. By +repeated discharges of my gun I at last succeeded in attracting the +attention of the boat's crew, who made an immediate and desperate effort +to come to our assistance: while their strength lasted they just +contrived to hold their own against the tide, then, drifting astern, were +again compelled to anchor. The attempt was renewed, when an equally +desperate struggle was followed by just as fruitless a result: the force +of the stream was clearly more than they could overcome, and an +intervening bank precluded any attempt to creep up to us along the shore. + +Most anxiously did I watch the water as it changed its upward level +almost with the rapidity of an inch a minute, being in doubt whether it +would rise above our heads, ere it afforded a sufficient depth to carry +the boat over the intervening bank, and bring us the only assistance that +would afford a chance for our lives. I breathed a short, but most fervent +prayer to Him, in whose hands are the issues of life and death, and +turned back to cheer my comrades with the chance of rescue. + +AND PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE. + +Nor shall I ever forget the expression of thankfulness and gratitude +which lit up the face of poor Ask, as the whispers of hope were confirmed +by the welcome advance of the whaleboat's bows through the almost +submerged mangroves, just as the water had topped our shoulders; and, +therefore, barely in time to confirm upon this locality its former title +of Point Escape! + +We now pulled down to this last-named point, and waited for the tide to +fall, in order to obtain the necessary observations for determining its +position: those for latitude, taken in the early part of the night, gave +a result (worked on the spot) of 17 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South; being +an increase in latitude of 35 miles from the present position of the +Beagle. + +Having now but two days' provisions remaining, I determined on completing +the survey of the western shore, south of Valentine Island, and then to +return and report our discovery, knowing that Captain Wickham would do +all in his power to prosecute it to the utmost. + +RETURN TO THE SHIP. + +March 3. + +These plans were accordingly carried into effect, and we returned to the +ship on the morning of the 3rd of March. We found all well on board, with +the exception of poor Mr. Usborne, whom we were delighted to see so far +recovered. One sentiment of satisfaction pervaded the whole ship's +company, when informed of our success; and, as I had anticipated, Captain +Wickham at once determined upon further exploring our new discovery in +lighter boats, first placing the ship as near the mouth of it as +practicable. During the squall, on the first night of our absence, the +ship parted her cable, and was nearly on the rocks. + +Our sportsmen had been actively and successfully employed during our +absence, having shot a great number of quail; they had seen two emus, and +Messrs. Bynoe and Dring had obtained several +specimens of rare birds, all of which are now figured by Mr. Gould in his +Birds of Australia. A few natives had also been seen, but they were too +wary to permit any intercourse with them. + +March 4. + +This was Sunday, and no imperative necessity hindered our making it a day +of rest. Various necessary observations occupied the greater part of +Monday; and, on the day following, the ship was moved, under my guidance, +to an anchorage, in 5 fathoms (low-water) 2 1/2 miles west from Point +Torment. + + +CHAPTER 1.7. THE FITZROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TO +SWAN RIVER. + +Examination of the Fitzroy River. +Excursion into the interior. +Alarm of the Natives. +Ascent of the River. +Sufferings from Mosquitoes. +Red Sandstone. +Natives again surprised. +Appearance of the Country. +Impediments in the River. +Return of the boats. +An Alligator. +Stokes' Bay. +Narrow escape of an Officer. +Change of Landscape. +Pheasant-Cuckoos. +A new Vine. +Compass Hill. +Port Usborne. +Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. +Cone Bay. +Native Fires. +Whirlpool Channel. +Group of Islands. +Sterile aspect of the Coast. +Visited by a Native. +Bathurst Island. +Native Hut and Raft. +Return to Port Usborne. +Native Spears. +Cascade Bay. +Result of Explorations in King's Sound. +Interview with Natives. +Coral Reefs. +Discover Beagle Bank. +Arrival at Port George the Fourth. +Examination of Collier Bay in the boats. +Brecknock Harbour. +The Slate Islands. +Freshwater Cove. +An Eagle shot. +Its singular nest. +Rock Kangaroos. +A Conflagration. +Sandstone Ridges. +Doubtful Bay. +Mouth of the Glenelg. +Remarkable Tree. +Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour. +Return to the Ship. +Meet with Lieutenant Grey. +His sufferings and discoveries. +Visit the Encampment. +Timor Ponies. +Embarkation of Lieutenant Grey's Party. +Sail from Port George the Fourth. +Remarks on position of Tryal Rock. +Anecdotes of Miago. +Arrival at Swan River. +Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage. + +March 7, 1838. + +We spent the morning in making the necessary preparations, and in the +afternoon started to resume our examination of Fitzroy River. Captain +Wickham and Lieutenant Eden in the gig, and myself, accompanied by Mr. +Tarrant, in one of the whaleboats; we reached the mangrove isles at +sunset, and spent the night between them and the eastern shore. On the +8th the tide suited us but badly, and we were only able to proceed about +four miles beyond Escape Point, where we secured the boats in a creek out +of the influence of the tide. We found much less water off Escape Point +than on our former visit. + +EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. + +In the evening we made an excursion into the interior. It was one vast +unbroken level, covered with a strong and wiry grass, intersected with +numerous watercourses, which the tide filled at high-water, there were +also indications of more important, but less regular, visits from the +sea. Here and there a solitary tree assisted us in estimating the +distance we had walked. We saw two emus in this plain, which appeared +also a favourite resort of quail and a bronze-winged pigeon. We could not +get within shot of the wary emus, but the quail and pigeons afforded us +good sport, notwithstanding the ceaseless attacks of the mosquitoes, +which swarmed in the long grass, and defied anything less impenetrable +than Mackintosh leggings, encumbrances not desirable for a pedestrian +with the thermometer at 87 degrees, particularly when worn over a pair of +Flushing trousers. Thus defended, I could, in some degree, defy these +tormenting assailants, and at night, under the additional security +afforded by a large painted coat, contrived to secure two or three hours +of unbroken rest--a luxury few of my companions enjoyed. + +It was with much disappointment that we found the channel occupied, at +low-water, by a mere rivulet, draining the extensive mud flats then left +uncovered. Hope, however, though somewhat sobered, was not altogether +destroyed by this malapropos discovery, and we still looked forward with +an interest but little abated, to the results of a complete survey of our +new discovery. + +March 9. + +We moved on when the tide served, keeping close to the eastern bank of +the river, where there appeared at low-water, the largest stream, then +barely two feet deep. Following the sinuosity of the shore, our general +direction was south, and after we had thus proceeded two miles, we found +the width of the river suddenly contract from three miles to one. The +banks were low and covered with a coarse grass. + +NATIVES. + +Here we saw three natives, stretching their long spare bodies over the +bank, watching the leading boat with the fixed gaze of apparent terror +and anxiety. Sso rivetted was their attention, that they allowed my boat +to approach unnoticed within a very short distance of them; but when they +suddenly caught sight of it, they gave a yell of mingled astonishment and +alarm, and flinging themselves back into the long grass, were almost +instantly out of sight. They were evidently greatly alarmed, and as +Miago, whose presence might have given them confidence, was not with us, +it seemed hopeless to attempt any communication with them, much as we +should have liked to convince them, that these strange white creatures +were of a race of beings formed like themselves, though even of our +existence they could have had no previous idea. + +EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER. + +Six miles from our last night's bivouac, still keeping our southerly +direction, brought us to some low, grassy islets, extending almost across +the river, and leaving only confined and shallow channels; through one of +which we had, at half tide, some difficulty in finding a passage for the +boats. The river now widened out a little, and we found the deep water +near the western bank, the appearance of the country remaining unaltered. +We landed to pass the night at a rocky point on the east side of the +river, one mile south from the most western islet of the chain just +described as almost preventing our ascent. The depth of the river at this +point was about twelve feet at low-water; and its breadth some four or +five hundred yards. We found the water fresh at all times of tide, which +here rose only eight feet; being ten feet less than its greatest rise +eight miles nearer the mouth, where the time of high-water at the full +and change of the moon occurs at 4 hours 10 minutes P.M. + +This was the first rock formation we had noticed since leaving Point +Torment, a distance of nearly thirty miles; it was a very fine-grained +red sandstone, darkened and rendered heavy by the presence of ferruginous +particles. The appearance of the country now began to improve, the +eastern bank was thickly wooded, and a mile higher up, the western +appeared clothed in verdure. I noticed here the same kind of tree, seen +for the first time behind our last night's bivouac; it was small and +shrubby-looking, with a rough bark, not unlike that of the common elm, +and its little pointed leaf, of a deep, dark green, contrasted with the +evergreen Eucalypti by which it was surrounded, reminded me of the +various tints that give the charm of constant variety to our English +woods, and lend to each succeeding season a distinctive and +characteristic beauty.* + +(*Footnote. The diameter of the largest tree of this kind was only eight +inches: it was exceedingly hard, and of a very dark red colour, except a +white rim about an inch in thickness. This wood worked and looked the +best, in a table I had made out of various specimens of woods collected +on the North-west coast of Australia.) + +SUFFERINGS FROM MOSQUITOES. + +I must be pardoned for again alluding to our old enemies the mosquitoes, +but the reception they gave us this night is too deeply engraven on my +memory to be ever quite forgotten. + +NIGHT OF TORMENT. + +They swarmed around us, and by the light of the fire, the blanket bags in +which the men sought to protect themselves, seemed literally black with +their crawling and stinging persecutors. Woe to the unhappy wretch who +had left unclosed the least hole in his bag; the persevering mosquitoes +surely found it out, and as surely drove the luckless occupant out of his +retreat. I noticed one man dressed as if in the frozen north, hold his +bag over the fire till it was quite full of smoke, and then get into it, +a companion securing the mouth over his head at the apparent risk of +suffocation; he obtained three hours of what he gratefully termed +comfortable sleep, but when he emerged from his shelter, where he had +been stewed up with the thermometer at 87 degrees, his appearance may be +easily imagined. + +Our hands were in constant requisition to keep the tormentors from the +face and ears, which often received a hearty whack, aimed in the +fruitless irritation of the moment at our assailants, and which sometimes +ended in adding headache to the list of annoyances. Strike as you please, +the ceaseless humming of the invincible mosquito close to your ear seems +to mock his unhappy victim! + +One poor fellow, whose patience was quite exhausted, fairly jumped into +the river to escape further persecution. + +We had the wind from South-West to South-East during the afternoon, but +at 6 P.M. it veered round to North-North-West. + +While getting the observations for time and latitude, some of us were +compelled to remain quiet, an opportunity our tiny assailants instantly +availed themselves of, covering our faces and hands. To listen quietly to +their hum, and feel their long stings darting into your flesh, might put +the patience of Job himself to a severe trial. + +ASCENT OF THE FITZROY. + +March 10. + +After such a night of torment, we hailed the morning with delight; and +having partaken of an early breakfast, proceeded on our interesting +discovery. The first reach took us more than a mile, in a South-West by +West direction, the width of it being towards the latter end nearly a +quarter of a mile; the deepest water (from seven to eight feet) was on +the west side, and a dry flat of sand fronted the other for some +distance. The course of the river now changed, first to South-East then +round to West-North-West enclosing a mile of ground. We had great +difficulty, owing to the water being very shoal, in getting our boats +through the next reach, which was rather more than a mile in a West by +South direction. After threading our way through three more reaches, +trending South-South-West--South-West, and South and from half to one +mile in length, the shades of evening and fatigue attending a long and +unsatisfactory day's work, warned us that it was time to seek a +resting-place for the night, although we had but little hopes of +obtaining any. We had made good but six miles during the day in a general +South-West by West direction. Our progress being delayed by the +difficulty we had in getting the boats over the shallows, and by a +current running at the rate of from one to two miles an hour. + +The depth of the river varied during the day from one to fourteen feet, +and its width from three to five hundred yards. In the deep reaches were +the wrecks of large trees, rearing their decayed heads, in evidence of +the resistless fury of the torrent that had torn them from their roots, +during some vast inundation, traces of which still remain on the banks, +many feet above the present level of the river. + +The general aspect of the country had improved, and the eastern bank +reached an elevation of 20 feet; it was covered with long, green grass, +and thickly wooded with a luxuriant growth of the white eucalyptus, while +the almost total absence of every appearance of animal life, impressed an +air of solemn tranquillity upon the whole scene. Perhaps it was from +there being little to admire in the surrounding scenery that we were so +much struck with the beauty of the western sky, as its gilded clouds +marked the departure of the great ruler of the day. It was scarcely +possible to behold a more splendid sunset; but with us, after another +sleepless night, his rise, as he tinged the eastern sky, was hailed with +even greater delight. + +March 11. + +At daylight I climbed the highest tree I could find on the eastern bank +of the river, in order to get a peep at the surrounding country. The +prospect, however, was but limited. The landscape presented to my view, +was an almost uninterrupted level; open woodlands, with here and there a +few grassy spots, were its prevailing features. I could see nothing of +the river itself beyond the reach in which the boats were lying; its +upper extremity bore South by West and was about half a mile from our +halting place. I made a discovery in climbing this tree, which I hoped to +make available in our farther ascent of the Fitzroy, should we be so +fortunate as to accomplish its further exploration, or in any similar +circumstances during our examination of these untrodden wilds. It was +this, and I mention it, as the hint may be useful to others: I found our +enemies the mosquitoes did not resort to the higher portions of the tree, +and that by climbing some thirty feet from the ground, a night's repose, +or at least a night undisturbed by their attacks might be obtained. + +Hastening back to the boats, we pushed on, but were some time getting to +the end of the reach, the shallowness of the water rendering our advance +difficult and tedious; entering at length the next, which trended +South-West for about half a mile, the river gradually widened out until +it attained a breadth of about half that space. An extensive flat of sand +fronted the eastern bank, which was very low, and though now dry, bore +undoubted marks of being not unfrequently visited by floods. The western +bank of the next reach was low and broken, evidently forming a group of +low grassy islands when the river is in a higher state. + +Some yellow sandstone cliffs, from ten to sixteen feet in height, formed +the opposite bank of this reach, which extended barely a quarter of a +mile, in from a South by East to a South by West direction; and varied in +width from one to two hundred yards. We now entered a lake-like reach of +the river, trending south for a mile and a quarter, having a breadth of +about a hundred yards, and a depth in many places of twelve feet; being +twice that which we had usually found in any of the lower reaches, with +scarcely any stream. Soon after entering this remarkable sheet of water, +we noticed a rock formation in its western banks; this we found to be a +coarse-grained red sandstone, with fragments of quartz, and extended for +nearly a quarter of a mile along the edge of the water. Over many parts +of it was a coating of a dark and metallic appearance, about three inches +thick; and the surface in places presented a glazed or smelted +appearance. Mr. Darwin, in his work upon volcanic islands, page 143, +alludes to this formation, under the head of "Superficial ferruginous +beds," and thus concludes his observations: "The origin of these +superficial beds, though sufficiently obscure, seems to be due to +alluvial action on detritus abounding with iron." + +As we proceeded along this canal, for such was the appearance of the +reach we were now ascending, we surprised a small party of natives. They +were at the water's edge, beneath a high mound of loose white sand, over +which the children were some time in making their escape, struggling and +screaming with anxiety and fear, as they half buried themselves beneath +its treacherous surface; and sometimes, after almost gaining the summit, +sliding back again to the base. All parental care seemed for the moment +lost in the overwhelming sense of present danger, caused by the strange +and unknown spectacle thus suddenly presented to the gaze of these poor +savages. Our white faces, curious garments, moving boats, the regular +motions and unaccustomed sounds of our heavy oars, must indeed have +filled them with amazement. I have since frequently remarked, that our +oars created more wonder, or alarm, among the various tribes who first +learnt through us the existence of their white brethren, than almost any +other instrument of which they could at all understand the use; perhaps, +as they propel their frail rafts with a spear, they jumped to the +conclusion, that our oars were also immense spears, which, being their +chief weapons, must have given us a formidable appearance. We noticed, +among the trees on the banks of this natural canal, two varieties of the +palm; both kinds had been observed by Mr. Brown in the Gulf of +Carpentaria, during Captain Flinders' voyage. + +At the end of this reach, which extended for a mile and a half in a +South-East by South direction, the river was scarcely 50 yards wide, and +the depth had decreased from 12 to 6 feet; the current, scarcely +perceptible in the deep water, now ran with a velocity of from one to two +miles per hour. Here, therefore, the Fitzroy may be said to assume all +the more distinctive features of an Australian river: deep reaches, +connected by shallows, and probably forming, during the droughts which +characterize Australia, an unlinked chain of ponds or lagoons; and in +places, leaving no other indication of its former existence than the +water-worn banks and deep holes, thirsty and desolate as a desert plain. +At this point, the river divided into two branches, one having an +East-South-East, and the other a South-South-East direction. Anxious to +determine, which, as the larger, best deserved our exploration, we landed +at a high grassy point on the west bank. From the top of the highest tree +in the neighbourhood, I commanded an extensive view of the wide and +far-spread landscape then first submitted to the scrutiny of a European. +Varied and undefined are the thoughts called forth at such a moment; the +past, the present, and the future, at once occupy, and almost confound +the imagination. New feelings accompany new perceptions; and gazing for +the first time upon a vast and unknown land, the mind, restless and +active, as the roving life by which it is informed, expands for the +reception of the crowding fancies, called into life as by the wand of the +magician. + +After yielding for a while to the influence of the scene, I was glad to +perceive the greater magnitude of the southerly branch of the river, +which offered the most direct line into the interior. I could trace each +stream for nearly three miles, but that which trended to the east was a +mere rivulet. Both flowed through a perfectly level country. Seven miles +was about as far as the eye could reach over this wearisome-looking +level. To the westward the country was open; the trees were small, and in +clumps, with green grassy patches between; but in other directions, it +was densely wooded, and on the eastern bank the trees were large. In the +branches of the one I ascended, rushes, deposited by the current, were +found 20 feet above the present level of the stream. This part of the +country is therefore sometimes visited by heavy floods; they do not, +however, seem to depend immediately upon the quantity of rain, for while +the whole face of the landscape indicated large and recent supplies, the +river appeared little, if at all, affected by them. + +Having determined to follow the larger branch of the Fitzroy, we +continued on our course, and found that beyond this point the river again +widened to nearly 200 yards; but that a chain of small islets, extending +from bank to bank, nearly stopped our proceeding further. This obstacle +was, however, overcome after some difficulty; and still proceeding +upwards another mile, we came to a narrow rapid and shallow reach, which +brought us into another still and deep, about 100 yards wide, and bounded +by high grassy banks. Through this we pursued our way right merrily, +indulging in the golden anticipation that the Fitzroy would yet convey +our boats some distance into the interior of that vast and unknown +continent, with the present condition and future destiny of which our +thoughts were so often busy. + +IMPEDIMENTS IN THE RIVER. + +Scarcely, however, had we made good another mile, when we found ourselves +entangled among a cluster of small islets, and sunken trees, which almost +wholly choked up the channel. The river thus pent up, ran through the +small openings in this barrier with great velocity; while above, it had +again assumed the deep still character which I have before had occasion +to describe. + +We had partly overcome this impediment, when Captain Wickham decided upon +giving up the attempt, and ordered the boats to return, considering the +evident risks too great to justify further perseverance. We therefore +gave up the exploration of the Fitzroy, in latitude 17 degrees 44 minutes +South, longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes East, having traced its course +for 22 miles in a general South-South-West direction, and having +penetrated 90 miles from the coastline, towards the centre of Australia, +from which we were still distant 600 miles. My view from the treetop +extended about four miles beyond the furthest point we had reached on the +river, it had been our good fortune to add to the geography of Australia. +Its banks here were 20 feet high, and covered with grass; partially +broken or washed down, they disclosed to view a rich alluvial soil, +nearly two feet deep. + +The trees we found most common during our expedition into this portion of +the new lands of Australia, consisted chiefly of two species of palm, and +three of the eucalypti, stunted banksia, acacia, and the singular tree +before mentioned. The birds we saw were wholly those belonging to the +land, and were chiefly black and white cockatoos, and a variety of +finches. We neither saw nor caught any fish, and the absence of waterfowl +led us to suppose they were scarce. + +RETURN OF THE BOATS. + +All the excitement and interest we had enjoyed in exploring the Fitzroy +thus far, now left us, and our return was comparatively tedious and +monotonous work. + +March 12. + +We, however, managed to reach our last night's bivouac by dark; and +towards the close of the next day we got as far down as the outer grassy +islet in the entrance of the river. The night was stormy, but the wind +and rain together kept away the mosquitoes, and enabled us to obtain a +little most welcome rest. This change in the weather was sudden. Hitherto +we had been singularly fortunate, each succeeding night, and returning +morn being, in cleanness and beauty, only a repetition of its +predecessor. + +March 13. + +The morning was again fine, and the bright sky was not disfigured by the +least trace of the dark clouds that had so lately overspread it. The tide +fortunately favoured our making an early start. On passing Escape Point, +so named, as the reader may recollect, in grateful remembrance of the +providential escape a small party of us experienced there, we saw an +alligator slide his unwieldy carcass from the soft mud-bank, upon which +he had been lazily reclining, into one of the creeks we had so much +difficulty in crossing. We could not but feel grateful that even the +existence of these monster reptiles in this river was then unknown to us, +as the bare thought of a visit from one of them would have added to the +unpleasantness of our position, while the actual presence of so wholesale +a gastronomer would perhaps have given another and less auspicious name +to Escape Point. + +A creek, ten miles from Point Torment, afforded us shelter for the night, +which was again wet and squally. + +March 14. + +At daybreak the blue vault above was still disfigured by dark inky +blotches of clouds. We reached the ship before breakfast, and found that +Mr. Helpman and Mr. Keys had ascertained that the opening on the +north-east side of Point Torment was a great bay, extending ten miles in +a south-easterly direction, with a width of the same distance: its shores +throughout were fringed with mangroves, through which the tide found its +way, inundating many miles of the interior at high-water. + +STOKES'S BAY. + +In the north and south corners of the depths of this bay they found an +inlet, each being about three miles deep; narrow, sandy ridges, almost +dry at low-water, trending to the North-West, and separated by channels +from three to four fathoms, occupied the greater portion of this +extensive bay, which Captain Wickham, out of compliment, named after +myself. + +Point Torment afforded a very fair field for the exertions of our +collectors in Natural History. Without wishing to bore my readers with +another long mosquito story, I think the following may be interesting. + +AN OFFICER ENTANGLED IN MANGROVES. + +One of the officers on a shooting excursion lost his way and got +entangled in a mangrove forest, where the ground being a soft mud, +travelling became very laborious, particularly in a temperature of 85 +degrees and without water; fatigue hastened by thirst, at length quite +knocked up my shipmate, who threw himself exhausted on the ground. In +vain did he seek for a little rest, for no sooner was he quiet than +swarms of mosquitoes assailed him, and forced him again on his legs; +unwelcome as these tormenting visitors generally are, they were probably +in this case the means of saving my friend's life, as goaded on by their +unceasing attacks, to exertions otherwise out of the question, he +eventually reached assistance, and was brought on board in a most +helpless condition. + +The tide here was two hours later than at Foul Point: the greatest rise +noticed in the ship was thirty feet, which was seven feet less than we +had found it in the yawl. + +We had several heavy squalls from eastward this afternoon, and during the +early part of the night, with rain and thunder. + +March 15. + +The morning broke dull and gloomy, with a light breeze from the eastward. +There were altogether evident symptoms of a decided and immediate change +in the weather. The survey of the south-eastern portion of the sound +being now complete, the ship was taken over to the high rocky land lying +north 20 miles from Point Torment. We crossed the flat extending four +miles North-West from that point, in from two to three fathoms at +low-water; the soundings afterwards varied from nine to eleven fathoms +with a soft, muddy sand bottom. We anchored in seven fathoms low-water, +one mile and a half South-South-West from the southern of two small rocky +islets, lying 16 miles north from Point Torment and three from the rocky +shore behind them; a sandbank, dry at low-water, extended from these +islets to within half a mile of the ship. + +CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE. + +Our eyes were now relieved by a pleasing change of landscape; the land +had wholly changed in character from that of which we had seen so much +and grown so weary. It no longer stretched away in an illimitable and +boundless plain, but rising abruptly from the water's edge, attained an +elevation of 700 feet. The highest part of this range (afterwards named +Compass Hill) bore North by West distant four and a quarter miles. We +were all of course exceedingly anxious to visit this new land; but the +weather, strange to say, put our patience to a trial of four days, during +which it equalled in severity any we had experienced under Swan Point. It +commenced with dark masses of clouds rising in the east, which were soon +followed by a fresh breeze from the South-East with heavy rain, gradually +freshening as it came round to the westward, blowing hardest between +West-South-West and West-North-West. The barometer being out of order we +were unable to observe how this unusual change would have affected that +instrument; the thermometer, however, fell to 76 degrees, an alteration +of temperature which, combined with the dampness of the atmosphere, +exposed us to the novel sensation of cold. We noticed the time of +high-water was about fifteen minutes earlier than at Point Torment, the +flood-stream setting East-South-East and the ebb west. The former at a +rate of two miles, and the latter one mile per hour. + +March 21. + +At length the wished for change arrived, and we again beheld this morning +the deep pure blue of a southern sky. We were all eager to commence our +exploration, and Mr. Usborne, ever anxious to be actively employed, was +so far recovered that he induced the surgeon, though reluctantly, to +allow him to again share in the duties of the survey. He was accordingly +despatched to look for a berth for the ship further to the North-West, +while Captain Wickham and myself went towards Compass Hill. We were +accompanied by Mr. Bynoe, who, during our excursion, was fortunate enough +to add several rare birds to his collection. + +EXPLORATION OF THE BAY. + +We landed in a small sandy bay at the western end of a growth of +mangroves, fringing the shore behind the islands. The sandbank fronting +them we found to extend to the bay we landed in; to the westward of it +there was deep water close to the shore. Wood and water might easily be +obtained in this bay, a circumstance that may give it value in the eyes +of future navigators, as it did in ours. + +Before ascending the hill we crossed a flat clothed with rich grass, out +of which we flushed several Pheasant-cuckoos.* We found one of their +nests on the ground containing four eggs, in size and colour they +resembled the domestic pigeon. The nimble manner in which these birds hop +along the branches of trees, with their long tails whisking behind, give +them, at the first glance, more the appearance of monkeys than birds. + +(*Footnote. Centropus Phasianellus.) + +A NEW VINE. + +We found here the gouty-stem tree of large size, bearing fruit; and also +a vine, which, from all the information I have since been able to +collect, appears to be quite a new specimen;* it bore a small but +well-tasted black berry, similar in shape and general appearance to the +grape sometimes seen climbing over the cottage doors in England. Each +fruit contained three large seeds, in shape and size resembling the +coffee berry. It was growing in a light sandy soil, and the temperature +to which it was exposed varies from 76 to 110 degrees. It is a matter of +great regret that I was not able to introduce this new species of vine +into England; the seeds and specimens of it having been unfortunately +destroyed by mice and insects. I was, however, more fortunate at Sydney +and Swan River. + +(*Footnote. From the description I gave of this vine to Sir W. Hooker he +thought it quite new.) + +COMPASS HILL. + +We at length gained the top of Compass Hill, which we found to be a +slight mound on a platform of coarse sandstone formation, with fragments +of quartz; the sandstone was tinged with red, and appeared to be +crumbling away; a straggling growth of white eucalypti covered the crest +of this height, which rather spoilt the view we had promised ourselves; +however, by climbing several of them, I managed to see all round. + +West, six and a half miles, there was a snug cove fronted by a small +island, from whence the coast appeared to take a more northerly +direction. The extremes of a large sheet of water bore North by West and +West by North, which we afterwards found to be connected with the +above-mentioned cove. A succession of heights, similar to the one we were +on, bounded our view between North and North-East. Twenty-one miles, in a +South-East by East direction, were some detached, round hills, apparently +the termination of the high land on which we stood; these appeared to +rise out of a plain of such an extent, in a South-East and easterly +direction, that I conceived it possible it may have extended to the rear +of Collier Bay, which damped the interest we had previously looked +forward to, in the exploration of that part of the coast, as it tended +materially to weaken the probability of finding any large opening there. +In crossing one of the valleys in our descent to the boats, Mr. Bynoe +wounded a large kangaroo; we gave chase; but notwithstanding all our +efforts, and at the expense of many a bruise, stumbling over the rugged +ground, the prize, almost within our grasp, escaped, and, to add to our +misfortune, one of the small compasses was found missing, the strap that +suspended it having given way; from this accident the hill received its +name. + +PORT USBORNE. + +On our return to the ship, we found Mr. Usborne had discovered good +anchorage in the cove we had seen from the hill, which in commemoration +of his providential recovery was called after him Port Usborne. + +March 22. + +It was a clear and beautiful morning, and the sun as it rose shed a +glittering stream of light over the placid waters of the bay, now +slightly rippled by an easterly air. All were early and busily engaged in +moving the ship into Port Usborne. On our way we crossed the inner edge +of a bank seen from Compass Hill, in three fathoms: Helpman's south islet +bore at the time east three and a half miles; after crossing this bank, +the least water we had was ten fathoms; this depth we found in passing on +the eastern side of the small, low island fronting Port Usborne. A +solitary overspreading tree, and a white patch on its eastern extremity +renders this island conspicuous, and is of this importance, that it +guides a stranger to the only safe anchorage among the islands on the +eastern shore of King's Sound. As a further guide to Port Usborne it is +situated at the southern extremity of all these islands, and where the +coast suddenly trends away to the eastward. + +We were delighted to find ourselves in an anchorage almost surrounded by +land, and although the rugged sandstone ridges, with their dark, +mysterious, and densely-wooded valleys, did not give the shore a very +inviting appearance, still the very wildness of the scenery contrasted +pleasingly in our remembrance with the monotonous level of the country +about Point Torment, and on the banks of the Fitzroy. Our present +position had also its practical advantages, being well adapted for +carrying on the essential duties of the survey, for which service the +boats were prepared in the course of the afternoon. + +This snug little port we found to be three-quarters of a mile broad and +one deep, and varying in depth from seven to fifteen fathoms: it faces +west, the entrance points lying nearly north and south of each other, and +affords an abundant supply of wood and water. We saw no traces of +inhabitants; not even the curling smoke that had so often indicated their +presence, greeted the eye; all was silent, and the feelings of utter +loneliness were only dispelled by the mournful screams of the curlew, and +occasional howl of the wild dog, as the deepening shadows of night closed +in. + +March 23. + +The boats were manned early, and we left the ship with the best wishes of +the anxious group who watched our departure, and speculated with eager +anticipation upon the probable result of our enterprise. + +EASTERN SHORE OF KING'S SOUND. + +Mr. Usborne proceeded in one boat to examine a group of islands, lying +six miles North-West from our anchorage; Mr. Tarrant and myself in the +other, to explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. It was thus again +our good fortune to enjoy the exciting pleasure of anticipated discovery; +perchance again to wander over the face of a country, now the desert +heritage of the solitary savage, but fated, we hope, to become the abode +of plenty, and the land of peace. + +After passing the extreme North-West point of the mainland, seen from the +ship, we discovered a deep bay, which once reached, would afford safe +anchorage for a fleet. Near its northern point a large stream of water +fell into the sea in glittering cascades; off this a ship may anchor in +twelve fathoms within a quarter of a mile; close to the west is a small +sandy beach. Promising to refresh ourselves at this inviting stream, we +continued our course to the northward. After passing a deep narrow +channel, trending North-West by West we met the first rush of the +northerly, or ebb stream, which, running at the rate of six or seven +knots, swept us through a very small, dangerous opening, between some +rocky islets and the main. A small bay fortunately afforded us the means +of avoiding a treacherous ledge of sunken rocks, which had the boat +touched, at the almost giddy rapidity we were hurried along, our +destruction must have been inevitable. Landing to cook our dinners, I +went to the top of the highest neighbouring hill, to obtain a round of +angles: our journey was a perfect scramble, the face of the country being +intersected by deep ravines, and covered with huge blocks of coarse +sandstone; over these we observed several of the rock-kangaroo, bounding +with their long, bushy tails swinging high in the air as if in defiance +of pursuit. The view of the archipelago, from this position, fully +satisfied me, that without incurring great risk, it would be impossible +for a ship to thread her way through the numerous islands, independent of +shoals, tide-races, and shifting winds, which form the ordinary perils of +such navigation. I reckoned more than eighty islands in this portion of +the archipelago alone. + +CONE BAY. + +After dinner we proceeded, steering North-North-East, and crossed two +deep bays, the first 3 and the second 4 1/2 miles wide, both affording +good anchorage, but utterly useless from the barrier of reefs and islets +extending across their mouths. These bays and the ranges of hills we +passed, trended East-South-East. To the second and deepest we gave the +name of Cone Bay, from a singular hill of that form on its eastern shore. + +The eastern entrance of a small tortuous channel afforded us a resting +place for the night, having made good 17 miles in a North-North-East +direction from the ship. The observations were made for latitude on the +south point, and gave a result of 16 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South. It was +nearly dark when we anchored, and therefore our intended attempt to gain +the summit of the neighbouring heights, was necessarily postponed till +this morning. + +March 24. + +When the first rays of the sun saw us struggling over the huge masses of +rock of which they are composed. The view itself differed but little from +that obtained yesterday, except that the islands are yet more numerous, +the mainland more frequently indented with bays varying from two to five +miles in width, and invariably trending in the same East-South-East +direction. The long and narrow islands which these bays contained +generally subsided to the South-South-West. I was fully occupied in +sketching the surrounding objects from this station, till the tide had +risen sufficient for us to pass the channel. After a late breakfast we +again bore away to the North-East under a double-reefed sail, as the sky +wore a threatening appearance. After clearing the channel we crossed a +bay about two miles wide and four deep, thickly studded with small +islands. At noon being near the north point of it, I landed in order to +secure a latitude, and at the same time a round of angles. Having the +flood tide against us, we had only made five miles in a North by East +direction from last night's bivouac. + +NATIVE FIRES. + +Here for the first time since leaving the Fitzroy we saw native fires. +One of them was upon an island eight or nine miles from the main, between +which, however, a chain of smaller ones formed links of communication. +These signs of inhabitants gave us hopes of finding some improvement from +the almost utter sterility that had hitherto prevailed among these +scattered islands. We had as yet seen no traces of either canoes or +rafts, and therefore were not a little curious to see what mode of +conveyance the natives of these parts used. We soon again moved onwards +in a north by east direction, across another large bay, which, similar to +the last, contained many islets. It was with great reluctance we pursued +this northerly course, as I hoped ere this to have found an opening +leading to the coast near Collier Bay; but the result of this day's +progress fully satisfied me of the improbability of any such existing. + +REMARKABLE HEADLAND. + +The north point of this bay forms a most remarkable headland, rising +abruptly from the water to an elevation of 400 feet. Its cliffy face +presented a grey and aged appearance, which together with the strange +column-shaped rocks, scattered over its level summit, gave it the +appearance of an ancient turreted fortress. Here I first noticed a change +in the strata; hitherto it had been invariably west-north-west, while +from this point, as far as our subsequent experience enabled us to +decide, it was west. I may be pardoned for noticing by way of a momentary +digression that all the rocks hitherto seen on this part of the coast +precisely resemble the group forming the western side of Sunday Strait; +the inclination and direction of the strata are identical; while an +examination of all the high rocky portions of this archipelago will +satisfy the geologist that they belong to the same age of the world. The +history of these coral reefs and islands, which have already attained +something like a majority (if I may use the expression) may be read, at +least it is apparently clearly written in the rising banks around, which +are just struggling with the tide before they lift themselves forever +beyond its reach. As they rise, the mangrove, the pioneer of such +fertility as the sea deposits, hastens to maturity, clothing them with +its mantle of never-fading green, and thus bestowing on these barren +reefs the presence of vegetable life. + +WHIRLPOOL CHANNEL. + +Our course now lay along the western foot of the curious headland just +described, a rapid tide soon hurried us past its frowning shadows into a +very winding channel scarcely half a mile wide, and more than 20 fathoms +deep; in this we experienced violent whirlpools, the first of which, from +want of experience, handled us very roughly, suddenly wrenching the oars +out of the men's hands, and whirling the boat round with alarming +rapidity; after several round turns of this kind we shot out of the +channel (which from the above circumstance we called Whirlpool Channel) +into a bay about three miles wide, trending east; at the head of it were +some snug coves, the shores of which were clothed with long rich grass +and clumps of palm trees, thus realizing the hopes we had entertained of +finding a more fertile country on first observing signs of inhabitants. +We would fain have occupied one of these beautiful coves for the night, +but as there was still two hours' daylight, we pushed on across the bay +for a group of islands three miles further in a north-north-east +direction. We obtained snug quarters for the night in a little sandy +cove, between the largest of this small cluster of isles which we found +to differ totally in shape and character from any yet seen; they trended +North-North-West in narrow ridges, and were of a grey slate formation, +their eastern sides formed steep precipices, while the western subsided +to the water in rich grassy slopes, leaving quite a serrated ridge on +their summits. + +BATHURST ISLAND. + +We managed to reach the most elevated part of the highest island, by +crawling along its ridge on our hands and knees. From this station I +recognized the islands to the North-West to be those forming the eastern +shore of Sunday Strait, and from the westerly trend of some larger ones +bearing North-East about eight miles, I rightly supposed them to be the +same Captain King had laid down off that part of the coast, where it +trends away to the eastward into Collier Bay; the largest of these I in +consequence named Bathurst Island, after his vessel. We were glad to find +the islands becoming less numerous, and a prospect of at last making our +way to the eastward. We just finished our observations, as the sun's +bright orb touched the distant horizon, and ere we reached the boat, the +last vestige of day had taken its silent flight. Our present position in +this network of islands, will be better described by giving it in +latitude and longitude, which we found to be 16 degrees 12 minutes South +and 123 degrees 32 minutes East. We had as usual a fine night with a +light East-South-East breeze, which had succeeded a strong one from +South-East during the day. + +March 25. + +Daylight found us running before a fresh breeze from the South-East in a +North-North-East direction; crossing the mouths of small bays, four miles +brought us to the North-West extreme of the mainland, the shores of which +we followed for two miles in a East-North-East and one in an East half +South direction, when we came to a small sandy bay where we landed to +search in a promising ravine for water; this we had the good fortune to +find almost immediately; whilst the breakers were filling, Mr. Tarrant +and myself ascended a hill near, for a few angles. + +APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. + +The country again presented a barren appearance, large masses of coarse +sandstone lay scattered over the face of it; a wiry grass, with a few +stunted gum-trees growing in the ravines, were all the vegetation this +point boasted of, and from what we saw of the interior, it appeared +scarcely more inviting. The sterility however which apparently prevailed +over this part of Australia, could not obliterate those feelings of deep +interest, which must pervade everyone, as the eye wanders for the first +time over a country hitherto unknown. + +VISITED BY A NATIVE. + +We had just completed our surveying operations, when two of the boat's +crew came to report a visit from one of the natives, and concluding +others were at hand, hastened up to strengthen our party; they said their +sable visitor came to them without any enticing, no offers of red or blue +handkerchiefs, or some gaudy bauble that seldom fails to catch the eye of +a savage--and without the slightest indication of fear. We hurried down +to see this marvellously confiding native, who we found coming up the +hill; he met us with all the confidence of an old acquaintance. His first +act of civility, was to show Mr. Tarrant and myself an easy road to the +beach; and I shall never forget as he preceded us, or rather walked by +our side, yielding the path, with natural politeness, to those he seemed +to regard as his guests, how wonderful was the agility he displayed in +passing over the rocks; sometimes coming down the face of one almost +precipitous, without the least apparent effort. When I pointed to the +fresh water, he said slowly and distinctly, "Yampee, Yampee." In height +he was about 5 feet 8 inches, his hair bore no symptoms of being tied up +behind (a custom we always before noticed) his teeth were also perfect, +and though his brow had the distinctive peculiarity of the people of this +continent, his forehead was remarkably high, his perception was very +quick, his utterance gentle and slow, both in articulation and by signs +(not flinging his arms about in the windmill-like fashion customary with +those we had before seen) his manner of conversation afforded a most +pleasing contrast to that of the natives hitherto seen, and altogether I +was exceedingly prepossessed in his favour. We very much regretted that +we were not better provided with presents for him: particularly as it +seldom happened that I was without a supply, for such occasions; in this +case, however, all I could give him consisted of a few beads, and some +biscuit which he devoured most readily. Nor ought the perfect confidence +this man manifested, in thus trusting himself alone and unarmed, among +such extraordinary strangers, to be passed over unnoticed: it commanded +respect from us all. His conduct too was in the same spirit when we +parted from him, though then I admit it almost as much disappointed as +astonished me: when the boat left the shore, he turned to ascend the +beach, and without once looking back, walked as unconcernedly and +listlessly away, as though such things were to him everyday sights. + +NATIVE HABITS. + +This want of curiosity is a very singular and I believe an almost +distinctive feature in the character of the native Australian. Among all +other savages of whom I have read, or among whom I have had any +opportunity of judging for myself, except the inhabitants of Tierra del +Fuego, a perpetual and never satisfied curiosity seems to be the leading +habit of their minds: here, however, wonder is rarely expressed, +curiosity seldom apparent--yet their indifference is not stupidity, or +their simplicity cunning. + +BATHURST ISLAND. + +We had now been sufficiently long in Australia to know the value of a +stream of water, and therefore always felt the necessity of +particularizing the locality of any we had the good fortune to find; from +this one the extremes of Bathurst Island bore North-West and North-East. +We now pulled for the opening on the east side of Bathurst Island, but +finding the flood-tide setting so strong through it from the northward, I +found it would be a waste of time to contend with it, and therefore +proceeded to a hill on the east end of Bathurst Island. A large flock of +white cockatoos screamed violently, as if wishing to dispute our landing, +and it was not till their numbers had been thinned, of which our evening +meal felt the benefit, that we could get any peace. We reached the summit +of the island by following up a ravine, which formed the only break in +the cliffs that faced the South-East side of the island. There was a +thick growth of red gums and the papyrus, on its sides, and near the +summit we found rocks containing iron; a vein of the same vitrified +matter I have described as seen at Swan Point, separated it from the +prevailing rock of the island, which was composed of sandstone and +fragments of quartz. The rocks containing metal had a strange appearance, +being heaped together in the form of a whirlpool; the ground beneath +appeared quite hollow. Our view was very commanding, and fully repaid us +for the scramble up; there was a clear sea to the North-East, and bearing +East-South-East were some small islands, which I afterwards found to be +situated near the depth of Collier Bay. The Macleay Isles of Captain King +bore North-North-East about six miles: between the latter and a group +farther west, there was a clear wide channel, which appeared to lead +between the island we were on and the next to the westward. As this was +the first part of the coast, since leaving Port Usborne, that a sailing +vessel could approach without great risk, we proceeded to examine that +channel more minutely, and were sorry to find the extensive coral reefs +which fronted the islands, left a space of only half a mile between; a +black pointed rock ten feet above high-water, marks the edge of the +western reef, where it is covered by the tide; keeping this close on the +starboard hand, will conduct a ship into good anchorage in 13 and 15 +fathoms. The rise and fall of the tide at this place, we found to be 22 +feet. + +NATIVE HABITATIONS. + +As we required another station on the west end of Bathurst Island, I +arranged that we should pass the night in a small cove near its +south-eastern extreme; here we found several native habitations of a +totally different and very superior description to any we had hitherto +seen in any part of Australia; they bore a marked resemblance to those I +had seen on the South-East coast of Tierra del Fuego, which was so +striking as to be remarked even by some of the boat's crew, who had +belonged to the Beagle in her wanderings on that stormy coast. + +Stout poles from 14 to 16 feet high formed the framework of these snug +huts--for so indeed they deserve to be termed--these were brought +together conically at the roof; a stout thatching of dried grass +completely excluded both wind and rain, and seemed to bespeak the +existence of a climate at times much more severe than a latitude of 16 +degrees 6 minutes south, would lead one to anticipate. The remains of +small fires, a well greased bark pillow, a head ornament of seabird's +feathers, together with several other trifling articles, strewn upon the +floors of these wigwams, proved that they had been very recently +inhabited. + +NATIVE RAFT. + +But perhaps the most interesting discovery in this bay, was a native +raft, which we found near the beach, in such a position as must have +required the exertions of several men to have placed it there; being +heavier than either of our boats. + +In the construction of this raft, almost everything had been left to +nature. It was framed of the dead trunk of a mangrove tree, with three +distinct stems growing from one root, about 18 feet long, and 4 1/2 +broad. The roots at one end closely entwined, as is the habit of the +tree, formed a sufficient bulwark at the stem, while an elbow in the +centre of the trunk, served the same purpose at the stern: a platform of +small poles, well covered with dried grass, gave a sufficient flooring to +this rude specimen of a raft. I could not survey it without allowing my +thoughts to carry me away in pleasing reflections upon the gradual +progress of human ingenuity by the advance of which, the same intellect +that first contents itself with the mere floating of the single tree, at +length shapes a forest into timbers and launches the floating fortress in +triumph on the deep! + +RETURN TO PORT USBORNE. + +We were now about 40 miles in a direct line from Port Usborne, and +perhaps 70 by the winding course we were obliged to follow; only two +days' provisions remained, and as we were still deficient of material for +the chart of this archipelago, I was reluctantly obliged to abandon the +idea of attempting to reach Collier Bay. The mainland we had explored, +since leaving Port Usborne, may be described as forming eight bays, +varying in depth from three to eight miles, and in width from two to +five; their general trend is East-South-East; many islets skirt their +shores, and almost more than can be counted fill their mouths. + +March 26. + +With the first grey of the morning we left Bathurst Island, on our return +to the southward. Whilst passing inside the cluster of isles of slate +formation, we heard a "halloa," and on looking in the direction from +whence it proceeded, a native was observed on a raft: the boat's course +was immediately altered so as to cut him off should he attempt to escape, +but to my great surprise he paddled towards us with all possible haste. + +THE NATIVE YAMPEE. + +He was soon alongside, and with great satisfaction we at once recognized +our strange friend of yesterday, who amongst the boat's crew, went by the +sobriquet of Yampee. He again made use of the word Yampee according to +our orthography, and after repeating it several times, I offered him some +water, which he very eagerly accepted, twice emptying a canister that had +originally held 4 pounds of preserved meat; this afforded me additional +proof of Yampee being the word the natives of these parts use for water. +At Swan River, the native name for water is gab-by, which differs so much +as to lead us to suppose the dialect of the two places is quite distinct. +This supposition is also borne out by the fact, that Miago, the native of +Swan River we had on board, could never understand the language spoken by +his countrymen, on the western shore of King's Sound. We found our new +acquaintance as yesterday, perfectly naked, the raft he was on was in +every respect similar to that previously seen upon Roe's Group, with this +slight exception, that between each pole several small pieces of wood +were inserted so as to make the flooring of the raft almost smooth. Into +the large end of the centre, and largest pole, six long pegs were driven, +forming a kind of basket in which were secured his means for procuring +fire; they consisted of two pieces of white flint, and some tinder rudely +manufactured from the inner bark of the papyrus tree. He used in paddling +a short spear, sharp at each end, and struck the water alternately on +either side; in this primitive manner he contrived to make way with a +rapidity that astonished us all. He had two spears on the raft, besides +the one he used for paddling; one of them was about 12 feet long, also +pointed at each end, though not barbed; and a small stick, similar to +that used by other natives for throwing at birds, and small animals. As +well as we could understand by his signs, it appeared that he had been +anxiously waiting our arrival, and had pushed off from the main to +intercept the boat, on our leaving Bathurst Island. We threw him a line, +and he immediately comprehended our intention, and its use, by at once +making fast to the raft; an instance of confident reliance upon our good +intentions, which reflected much credit upon the unsuspicious openness of +his own character, and which I should have exceedingly regretted by any +act of ours to abuse. + +PARTING WITH THE NATIVE. + +Had not the distance and our scant supply of food, rendered such a step +imprudent, I should have been very glad to have towed him to the ship. I +really believe he would have trusted himself with us, for that or a much +longer distance; but this could not be, and therefore, after endeavouring +to make him understand that we should sleep some distance to the south, +where there was a larger boat, alluding to the ship, we filled his basket +with bread, gave him as much water as he could drink, and bidding him +farewell, reluctantly cut him adrift: I shall not soon forget the +sorrowful expression of his countenance, when this apparently +inhospitable act was performed; it did not seem however to quench his +regard for his new friends, for so long as we could see him he was hard +at work paddling in our wake. I noticed that the beads given him +yesterday were gone; this fact, coupled with the smokes seen during the +day, satisfied me that he had friends in the neighbourhood, to whom I +hoped he would report favourably of his new acquaintances; we had +certainly endeavoured to obtain his goodwill. Simple-hearted, trusting +savage, farewell! + +NATIVE SPEARS. + +The woodcut represents the difference between the spear used by the +natives of this district and those of Swan River. + +We soon reached Whirlpool Channel, through which the tide again hurried +and whirled us with almost frightful rapidity; we were in one part of it +shot down a fall of several feet, the boat's bow being fairly buried in +the boiling current. Emerging from this channel the hoary face of the +remarkable headland already described, burst on our view; and as it was +necessary if possible to reach its summit, we landed in a small bay, near +the southern extremity. + +By following a winding ravine we gained the crest of this singular +platform, which we found formed of a fine-grained sandstone, with some +beautiful specimens of crystallised quartz on its higher parts, over +which was a slight sprinkling of vegetation, consisting of a few small +gumtrees and patches of coarse grass. The weather was unusually cloudy, +with squalls from the North-East; towards the evening it was fine with a +moderate breeze from East-South-East. As it was late when we reached the +boat, we spent the night where we landed. + +March 27. + +We were early on the move pursuing our southerly course, the morning +being rather gloomy with a fresh North-East wind, which raised a good +deal of sea in the mouths of the larger bays. As the day closed we +reached a cove half a mile north of Tide-Race Point, where we passed the +night. + +March 28. + +This morning the thermometer was down to 72 degrees at daylight, which +gave us the novel sensation of cold. It was late in the forenoon before +the violent ripplings at Tide-Race Point had subsided sufficiently to +allow of our passing it. The rate of the current at this point appeared +at times scarcely less than eight knots per hour, and traversing a rocky +ledge, extending to some islands, and nearly dry at low-water, rendered +it almost impassable, except when nearly high tide. + +CASCADE BAY. + +In the afternoon we reached the cascade discovered on our way to the +northward, and from which the bay within which it is received its name. +We spent an hour or two luxuriating in the thorough enjoyment of a treat +so rare, as this beautiful stream must be considered in North-western +Australia. In the evening we continued our return to Port Usborne, by a +channel leading from the bottom of Cascade Bay into the large sheet of +water first seen from Compass Hill; our progress was arrested at its +inner entrance by the violence with which the tide rushed through, and we +were therefore obliged to pass another night in the boats. + +RETURN OF THE BOATS. + +March 29. + +We reached the ship this morning, entering Port Usborne by a narrow rocky +channel, on its North-West shore; on the precipitous sides in this +passage we noticed several of the Rock Kangaroo. + +We found that Mr. Usborne had returned three days before us: from his +account of the islands he had visited, they appear to have the same +sterile character as most of those we had seen; in other respects, his +trip was void of interest, beyond that of surveying. During the absence +of the boats, tidal and magnetic observations had been made, some +specimens in Natural History had been collected, and all that could in +any way add to the interest of the expedition, had been as well attended +to as the means placed at our disposal would allow. + +We closed at Port Usborne our explorations in King's Sound, the result of +which enabled us to fill up the gap long existing in the charts of the +North-west coast of Australia, and which had for years been the theme of +much ingenious geographical speculation. The result of our labours, if it +had been less brilliant than eager anticipation at the onset led us to +hope for, had nevertheless been on the whole satisfactory. The river +Fitzroy, although not of the magnitude that we hoped to find, was still +an undoubtedly valuable acquisition to our stock of geographical +knowledge, and offered a way of access into the interior, of which we had +availed ourselves to the extent of 90 miles, and which subsequent +explorers might yet further improve: while in many minor yet important +matters, much had been done, and much seen, to more than compensate for +the disappointments and annoyances inseparable from the pursuits of the +adventurer. + +LEAVING PORT USBORNE. + +March 30. + +The morning was unusually stormy, dark clouds rested upon the adjacent +high land, while others no less portentous hurried past us on the wings +of the tempest. Soon after breakfast, we bade adieu to the wild scenery +of Port Usborne, and stood across the Sound, for our old anchorage on the +north side of Point Cunningham, distant one and twenty miles. In the +mouth of the harbour we passed over a coral knoll, having five fathoms on +it. We did not, however, reach our destination till nearly 6 P.M., having +been taken some distance up the Sound, by the flood-tide. Our soundings +in crossing varied from fifteen to twenty fathoms, chiefly over rocky +ground. It rained almost all the day, and we had several sudden shifts of +wind, from South-East to North-West. Our first view of the western shore +of the Sound was singular; Point Cunningham, and Carlisle Head, appeared +like two high square-looking islands. We anchored soon after high-water, +which appeared to be about a quarter of an hour earlier than at Port +Usborne. We remained at this anchorage till the 3rd of April, during +which time several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, but some +additions were made to the collection of Natural History, particularly in +the ornithological branch. It is not a little remarkable, that fish +should be so scarce on this part of the coast, a fact also noticed by +Captain King. + +INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. + +April 1. + +This morning five natives made their appearance on the beach. Captain +Wickham and myself went on shore, in order if possible to induce them to +visit the ship: on landing he recognised them for old acquaintances, and +I gave the eldest of the party, a handkerchief upon which he seemed to +have set his affections; however when he understood our wish for the +company of himself and friends on board, he was with difficulty induced +to retain it. None but those who have made the experiment, are aware of +what has to be overcome before any sort of intercourse can be carried on +by signs; or how often, among the most intelligent, the greatest mistakes +must of necessity occur. I have since thought, remembering what passed +during this interview, that while we were making signs to them that on +board they would find something to eat, each man's fears suggested the +probability of a certain convocation, not where he eats, but where he is +eaten, and induced him to decline standing treat upon the occasion. + +The singular manner these men had also of holding the face turned +upwards, in order to escape the plague of flies, fully confirmed the +truth of old Dampier's account of the manners of these people when he +first discovered this part of the world. The eldest was the spokesman, or +rather the signsman of the party, and this is always the custom, so far +as we have had an opportunity of judging. The word they make use of in +bowing (which they did quite in an Eastern style) appeared to be irru +irru: their breasts were scarred with deep horizontal cuts, such as we +had previously noticed on the natives in Roebuck Bay. I was so much +struck with the resemblance between these people and the natives of +Tierra del Fuego, that I have been tempted to believe that the stream of +population flowed thitherward from the continent of America. + +I ought to mention that when Captain Wickham and myself left the ship, in +the hope of inducing the natives to return with us, Miago, hearing of the +expected visit, immediately went below, and dressed himself to the best +possible advantage. No sooner did the boat come alongside, than he +appeared at the gangway, inquiring with the utmost possible dignity, +"where blackfellas?" and was evidently and deeply mortified that he had +no opportunity of astonishing the natives. + +There has been a marked change in the weather, since the sun crossed the +equator: we have had no repetitions of the easterly squalls, before so +prevalent, and the winds have been almost regular in the following order. +From 3 P.M. to 1 A.M. a light breeze from South-South-West which +freshening alters to South-East where it remains till 8 A.M., from that +hour gradually decreasing, and at the same time changing to North-East +and North. The thermometer, for some days past has ranged from 72 to 89 +degrees; a temperature which we thought a few months ago intolerable, was +now quite agreeable. + +We looked forward with the utmost anxiety to the result of our arrival at +Port George the Fourth, as there, or at least in that neighbourhood, we +hoped to hear some tidings of our friends Grey and Lushington, who, when +we separated from them at the Cape, intended to land in Hanover Bay, +establish a depot for stores, and from thence penetrate if possible into +the interior. + +THEIR PEACEABLE DISPOSITION. + +I had no fear on the subject of any hostility from the natives, for in +our own experience, we had as yet always found them inoffensive and +peaceable; while should they prove otherwise, I was satisfied that a very +slight acquaintance with the effects of gunpowder would be quite +sufficient to quell their warlike propensities, but I did fear that they +had chosen a very unfavourable point for debarkation, and that many +causes would combine to arrest their progress into the interior. How +unhappily my anticipations were verified, will be seen hereafter. + +Early on the morning of the 3rd, we left our anchorage under Point +Cunningham, and by two o'clock P.M., had worked through Sunday Strait, +where we encountered its usual heavy tide-races. At four o'clock in the +afternoon, Caffarelli Island bore East-South-East, 9 miles distant: and +about six, the wind, which through the day had been light and variable +quite deserted us, when to avoid drifting back into the strait we +anchored in 29 fathoms; Caffarelli Island bearing South-South-East 5 +miles. The tide here appeared to be one hour earlier than in Sunday +Strait: the flood set in a south-easterly, and the ebb in an opposite +direction, at the rate of from half to one mile per hour. + +The 24th saw us again underweigh, by the light of the stars, but the wind +being variable and against us, we did not get beyond Adele Island, where +we anchored in 14 fathoms: the nearest part of it bearing North 75 +degrees East 3 miles. + +ADELE ISLAND. + +Brue Reef was seen in the course of the day, and appeared to be correctly +laid down by Captain King: there appeared, however, some discrepancy in +the position of Adele Island, the southern extremity of which we found to +be in latitude 15 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds South, which is one mile +and a half to the southward of the place assigned to it in his chart. The +sea was breaking heavily on the reef, which fronts the island for a +distance of two miles. The island itself is low, desolate and barren. We +noticed there was scarcely any set of tide at this anchorage. During the +day's progress we found several coral ledges, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, +and trending North-East by East, and with from 25 to 35 fathoms between +them. The specimens of this beautiful submarine production brought up by +the lead, were of the most delicate kind, nor on any occasion did the +lead present any appearance to indicate that it had fallen among a +coarser sort. One beautiful fragment was obtained in Sunday Strait in 30 +fathoms, a depth at which living coral is rarely found. + +BEAGLE BANK. + +April 5. + +Daylight on the 5th found us standing to the +eastward--East-North-East--with a light northerly wind, in soundings +ranging from 14 to 40 fathoms, and over a bottom of white and brown sand +in the deep, and coral rock in the shoal water. In the afternoon we had +the good fortune to discover one of the reefs, which render the +navigation of this part of the coast rather hazardous. The position of +this danger, is however well marked by a bank of very white sand and dead +coral, from which the reef extends two miles and a half, in a +North-North-West and one mile in a South-South-East direction; and which +rising some 15 feet above the mean level of the blue surrounding water, +became a conspicuous object from our deck, even at the distance of six +miles. We gave our discovery the name of Beagle Bank, as another memorial +of the useful services in which our little vessel had been so frequently +engaged, and our observations enabled us to fix the centre of it in +latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 123 degrees 36 minutes +East. + +SHOAL SOUNDINGS. + +We anchored in the evening in 16 fathoms, the bank distant 3 1/2 miles in +a South by East direction: half a mile nearer to it, we found only 4 +fathoms. The tide rose at this anchorage 12 feet. The flood stream began +by setting to the South-South-West, and ended at South-east by East. The +ebb set West by North, and the utmost strength of stream never exceeded +one mile per hour. + +It was high-water at 10 o'clock P.M., and the stream changed at the same +time. The tide was therefore two hours later here than in the entrance to +King's Sound, from which it would appear that the tidal wave approaches +this coast from the West-South-West. + +April 6. + +We made slight progress towards Port George the Fourth, during the +forenoon; the water deepening to 20 and 30 fathoms, soon after we had +weighed. We espied a ridge extending to the South-east from Beagle Bank, +which supplies another fact in support of the opinion I have before +advanced, and which gives a north-westerly trend to these ledges. The +wind failing, and the ebb-tide drifting us again to the westward, in +sight of Beagle Bank, the anchor was dropped 4 1/2 miles East by North of +it, and in a depth of 12 fathoms, to which we had suddenly shoaled from +29, this position marked the limit of shoal soundings in an East by North +direction from Beagle Bank. Between sunset and midnight we were able to +make 17 miles, in an East by North direction, when a contrary tide, and +an accompanying calm, compelled us to anchor in 31 fathoms: the soundings +during the run had varied from 35 to 39 fathoms: the bottom, latterly a +soft mud, of a dirty grey colour. A twilight star placed our position 17 +miles west of Red Island, which corresponded with the bearings at +daylight. + +April 7. + +The wind being still very light, we were compelled to wait for the +flood-tide, which did not favour us till a quarter past six in the +morning. The last direction of the ebb stream was north. It was nearly +dark before we reached our anchorage, in 18 fathoms, one mile from Point +Adieu: on our way material was secured for laying down the sea-face of +the Champagny Islands. Red Island brought to our recollection Captain +Heywood, by whom this part of the Australian continent had been seen, and +of whose earlier career a notice will be found in Sir John Barrow's +interesting narrative of the Mutiny of the Bounty. + +TRAFALGAR AND WATERLOO. + +The soundings during the entire day, ranged from 27 to 30 fathoms, and +the character of the bottom was similar to that last described. Our +observations for latitude did not verify our position by the chart, +though all its bearings and distances appeared relatively correct. The +discrepancy may perhaps be ascribed to the effect of refraction, as we +were prevented by the land from observing on both horizons. The most +remarkable objects in this neighbourhood, were two hills, named by +Captain King, Mount Trafalgar, and Mount Waterloo, to record in one +hemisphere, two memorable events, not likely to be easily forgotten in +the other: although assuredly the time will come when the peaceful +triumphs of science and civilization, of which these names are here +enduring witnesses, will be far more highly valued, and far more truly +honoured! Mount Trafalgar made its first appearance in the form of a huge +quoin or wedge, resting longitudinally upon the horizon, with its point +towards the south-east. + +Among other memoranda for the improvement of the chart of this coast, it +should be noted that the reef extending to the North-West from Jackson's +peaked Island, appears to join the small islands lying near it in that +direction, and to which, from their colour, we gave the name of The Brown +Islands. + +THE BROWN ISLANDS. + +As there was every probability of the ship being detained in this +neighbourhood for some days, searching for traces of Lieutenants Grey and +Lushington's party, and as the examination of Collier Bay, where we still +hoped to find an opening leading into the interior, would prevent the +necessity of our return to this part of the coast, I applied to Captain +Wickham, for permission to proceed with the two whaleboats on that +service. A wound on the foot had in some degree unfitted me for any very +active duty, but I felt satisfied that the opportunity--perhaps the last +I might have--ought not to be undervalued or neglected. + +BRECKNOCK HARBOUR. + +April 8. + +By daylight on the 8th, the boats had left the ship, and were standing to +the southward among the islands. Our party consisted of Mr. Helpman, Mr. +Fitzmaurice and myself. Passing through the eastern part of Port George +the Fourth, we entered Roger Strait, which led into a large sheet of +water, forming a beautiful harbour; we landed to obtain a better view of +it, on a small island at the southern entrance of this strait. This islet +looked truly inviting, being clothed with long rich grass, which to our +cost we found concealed boulders of granite; this was the first time we +met with this primitive rock, and from the colour of the surrounding +heights it was evident we were in an old red sandstone region. Strange to +say the attraction on this island rendered our compasses quite useless; +we noticed on its North-West side a portion of the wreck of a small +vessel. There was a small mangrove inlet in the South-East corner of this +harbour, over which the land was low, forming a gap in the neighbouring +heights. We now pushed on for an island lying in the entrance of the +harbour, bearing West by North 6 miles; our soundings in passing over +this part (of what we afterwards called Brecknock Harbour, as Captain +King had named the entrance of it Camden Sound, from a distant view he +had of it) gave a depth of 7 fathoms, over an even muddy bottom; but +towards and in the entrance it increased to 13 fathoms. + +ENTRANCE ISLE. + +The island we now landed on, we called from its situation, Entrance +Island. From a high part overlooking its steep southern side we had a +very commanding view. The centre of a string of small islets bore north +one mile; there extended 2 miles in a west direction, from the north +point of the harbour; both these and Entrance Isle escaped Captain King's +notice, owing to the distant view he had of this part of the coast. A +point bearing South-West distant 3 miles, was the extreme of the mainland +that we could see in the direction we were going. We found the sandstone +of this Island not of the same ancient red colour as that on the shore +fronting it. One boat was employed in the meantime sounding the entrance +of the harbour, which we found to be 2 miles across, and from 9 to 15 +fathoms deep; the mouth of it faces the West-North-West, Entrance Isle +lying half a mile outside its points, with a clear channel nearly a mile +wide, on either side of it. + +About a quarter of a mile off the main, and fronting the south side of +this island, there is a singular needle-shaped rock, 20 feet high, +marking the outer extreme of a coral ledge, which is covered at +high-water. As it now blew a fresh breeze from seaward, and the afternoon +was far advanced, we spent the remainder of the day in a further +examination of the entrance. We were much pleased with the result of our +evening's work, finding the approach to this fine harbour quite free from +danger, and capable of admitting vessels of any size; there were no reefs +or islets seaward of it to add to the anxiety of the navigator, or lessen +the value of our discovery; the importance of which will be greatly +enhanced, should Lieutenants Grey and Lushington have the good fortune to +discover any land fit for colonization in its neighbourhood. Our labours +here closed with observations for a boat rate, for the chronometers and +latitude, the latter being 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes South on a sandy +beach at the eastern side of Entrance Isle. + +SLATE ISLANDS. + +April 9. + +We rounded the extreme point to the South-West seen from Entrance Isle at +sunrise; the rocks on this point were arranged quite in the form of a +fort, from whence it received the name of Battery Point; another group of +islands now came in view, bearing from Battery Point South-West by South +about 4 miles; these we named Slate Islands, from their singular +formation. They extended one mile North-West from a point of land; +between them and Battery Point, the coast fell back forming two bays, +crossing the mouths of which we had 13 fathoms. On passing Slate Islands, +we saw a headland, named by Captain King Point Hall, bearing South by +West 1/2 West distant 8 miles. It has a high peaked and isolated +appearance, being separated from the contiguous high land by a low neck. +We passed a bay 2 miles wide on its north-eastern, and a snug cove on its +south-eastern side. It was past noon and we were glad to see the stagnant +calm, that had for hours reigned around, dispelled by the seabreeze which +now darkened the horizon. Our course, during the afternoon was South by +East along a low rocky coast, but as we had to contend with a three-knot +tide, we did not get farther than a small sandy cove, bearing South by +East 9 miles from Point Hall, by the close of the day, which was the only +spot we had seen the whole of the afternoon capable of affording shelter +for the boats. + +FRESHWATER COVE. + +We were agreeably surprised to find a stream of water running into the +head of this cove, as the parched appearance of the low hills over it did +not lead us to expect such good luck, in remembrance of which we called +it Freshwater Cove. Landing, I hastened to the south point of the cove, +to secure the necessary data for the chart, before the surrounding +objects were veiled in darkness. We again appeared to be in a sterile +white sandstone region, where, with the exception of a few land birds, +there was a total absence of animal life, and almost that of the +vegetable, for even the gumtrees common in this part, were not to be +seen. Our view to the southward was very limited, embracing only the +Montgomery Islands of Captain King; they consist of six small rocky +islets resting on an extensive coral flat, that we afterwards observed to +be dry at low-water, and which extended to a large low sandy island, +lying six miles west from them; the latter was not seen by Captain King, +in his distant view of this neighbourhood. The eastern and largest of the +Montgomery Isles stands on the extreme of the coral flat; we found it to +be 70 feet high, and bore South-West by South 7 miles from this point of +Freshwater Cove. The latitude we obtained in the course of the night gave +a result of 15 degrees 49 minutes south. + +April 10. + +At daylight we continued pursuing our South by East course, following the +same kind of low straight rocky shore, as that of yesterday afternoon. We +passed inside a reef fronting the shore from a mile south of Freshwater +Cove; this passage was about half a mile wide and from 7 to 12 fathoms +deep. Having the flood-tide in our favour, we proceeded rapidly, and at +the end of four miles, found the trend of the coast suddenly changed to +East-North-East for two miles, when it again took a southerly direction, +forming a chain of high rocky islets. Deferring our examination of the +main, lying about a mile in the rear of these islets, we kept on our +South by East course, in the direction of some very high land now seen +for the first time. Three miles further brought us to a small rocky +islet, where we landed for a set of angles. + +Our hopes were considerably raised on reaching the top of this islet, by +finding that we looked in vain for land towards the head of Collier Bay; +the high land to the southward proved to be the south point of a large +bay, having on its northern side similar high ranges. + +LIZARDS. + +This island was overrun with a great variety of lizards, in consequence +of which we named it Lizard Island. During our stay here, two birds,* +rare on this part of the coast, were shot; they were of a smaller kind +than any I had before seen, and differed from them in plumage, being +without the white collar round the neck. Leaving Lizard Island, we +continued our southerly route, and ere long saw more land ahead, lying +like a blue cloud on the horizon. Ten miles brought us abreast of the +high land we had first seen, and six more to the southern point of a bay, +lying on its south-western side, where the duties of the survey again +obliged us to land. We considered ourselves now entering once more on the +new lands of Australia, as Captain King could scarcely have had even a +distant glimpse of this part; his extreme southern position being abreast +of Freshwater Cove, from whence he describes the view of the coast as +follows. "The land to the southward trended deeply in, and appeared to me +much broken in its character." We therefore naturally looked on +everything here with a greater degree of interest, and with the view of +affording time to examine the country, and determine the position of this +point by observation, I arranged to pass the night in its vicinity. + +(*Footnote. Haematopus picatus, described in the Appendix to Captain +King's work on Australia.) + +HEAD OF COLLIER BAY. + +The view from this station, blighted our hopes of finding an opening +leading into the interior from Collier Bay, for we could trace the land +all round the head of it, forming high ranges without a single break. +This malapropos discovery, materially diminished the pleasure we had +before experienced, on first seeing a new part of the continent. About +twenty miles west from where we stood, were a group of islands, which I +was able to identify as those seen from Bathurst Island, near the eastern +entrance point of King's Sound; they appeared to extend about ten miles +in a northerly direction, from the western point of Collier Bay. + +AN EAGLE SHOT. + +Whilst using the theodolite, we came within the searching glance of a +hungry eagle, which soaring over our heads for some time, at length +swooped within range of our guns, when he paid for his curiosity with the +loss of his life. This was the only rapacious bird we saw in Collier Bay, +and appears to be of the species Falco leucogaster Latham.* On +examination, the stomach contained fish and part of a small snake, and +from what I have since observed this bird frequents the sea coast. Their +nests are very large, built on bare spots in the shape of a pyramid; some +of them measuring three feet in diameter, and six high. To convey a +better idea of the size and exposed situation of the nests of these +birds, I may state that on low parts of the coast, they were often used +as surveying marks. This projection, which we called Eagle Point, is of a +siliceous sandstone formation, intersected by nearly vertical veins of +quartz, and forms a spur thrown off from a high range four miles to the +south-eastward. We did not find any water in the few miles of country +traversed in the course of the afternoon, yet everything wore a rich +green appearance, and the scenery in some of the dells we crossed, was +very picturesque, and quite alive with birds and insects; flights of +many-coloured parakeets swept by with a rapidity that resembled the +rushing sound of a passing gust of wind. Among the trees, I noticed for +the first time the Banksia, common in Western Australia; Mr. Cunningham, +the botanist who accompanied Captain King, did not consider its +indigenous empire extended to the North-West coast. Of the other kinds, +and which complete all the variety we observed on this part of the +continent, were the mimosa, acacia, papyrus, and two sorts of Eucalyptus; +there were also several plants of the order Leguminosae. + +(*Footnote. Figured in Mr. Gould's work on the Birds of Australia as +Ichthyiaetus leucogaster.) + +THE SEABREEZE. + +We had a breeze throughout the entire day, from North-East till 1 +o'clock, then West-North-West till near midnight; this westerly or +seabreeze, reached us within ten minutes of the time it did yesterday, a +regularity we found to prevail the few days we spent on this part of the +coast. The tide (being near the spring) fell in the night 36 feet, +leaving the greater part of the bay dry at low-water. Our observations +for latitude placed Eagle Point in 16 degrees 10 1/4 minutes south. + +April 11. + +We left with the first streak of dawn, and pursued our course to the +southward, passing inside a small reef lying half a mile west from Eagle +Point. The eastern shore now took a South by West direction, forming +shallow bights, flanked by hills of moderate elevation; our next station +was an islet at the head of Collier Bay, bearing South-South-West 1/2 +West 15 miles from Eagle Point: it was in the mouth of a shoal bay about +three miles deep in a West-South-West direction, the shores of which were +lined with mangroves and overlooked by a high rocky ridge. The width of +Collier Bay, at its entrance 20 miles, was here only six. + +NARROW INLET. + +The western shore ran in a North-West by West direction, a straight rocky +coast, over which rose abruptly a range of barren heights. The tide +stream gradually weakened as we approached the head of the bay, where it +scarcely exceeded half a knot, and the soundings decreased to seven +fathoms, with a kind of muddy sand bottom; but the clearness of the +water, and the equal duration of the flood and ebb streams, afforded the +most conclusive evidence of the small opening we now discovered in the +South-East corner of the bay being nothing more than an inlet. It bore +from this islet East-South-East four miles, yet as a drowning man catches +at a straw, so did we at this inlet, and were soon in the entrance, which +we found to be half a mile wide, with a very strong tide rushing out. +After some difficulty we landed on a high rocky island in the mouth of +it, the summit of which afforded us a good view of the inlet, which +within the entrance widened out and was about two miles deep. A point +prevented our seeing the eastern extreme, which Mr. Helpman was sent to +examine; he found it extended two miles in an East-North-East direction, +and like the other parts of it, to be lined with a scanty growth of +mangroves, and flanked by high rocky land. The shape of this inlet +resembles that of a bottle with a broad base, and being subject to a +tidal change of level of 36 feet, it is easy to imagine with what +violence such a body of water must rush through the narrow entrance to +keep on a level with the slow-moving waters of the bay outside. The cause +of this great rise of tide in the head of Collier Bay, may be attributed +to there being no escape for the vast body of water flowing into it. The +land over the depth of this inlet which I have before spoken of, as being +barren rocky heights, bounded our view to the southward; it bore +South-South-East three miles, and lies in latitude 16 degrees 25 minutes +South and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East being the farthest point +we determined towards the centre of the continent. The extreme position +reached in that direction by Lieutenant Lushington of Lieutenant Grey's +expedition, bears from this point, North 64 degrees East fifty miles. +Thus terminated our explorations in Collier Bay, and although we had not +the good fortune to find it the outlet of some large opening leading into +the interior, still we succeeded in setting at rest the speculation, such +a deep indentation of the coastline had hitherto afforded, and increased +our geographical knowledge of this part of the continent 35 miles. + +RETURN OF THE BOATS. + +In the afternoon we commenced our return to Port George the Fourth, from +which we were then distant about 80 miles; after delaying to examine two +islands lying North by East four miles from the inlet, of slate +formation, we reached a narrow point six miles further down the bay, in +time to save a true bearing from the sun's amplitude. We were surprised +to find this point also composed of the same kind of grey slate. The +islands we examined differed from those of the same formation in King's +Sound, having steep precipitous sides to the North-West instead of to the +South-East. As it was by this time nightfall we did not proceed farther. + +April 12. + +Towards the morning there was a South-East breeze which brought the +thermometer down to 76 degrees; it generally ranged between 80 and 96 +degrees. + +RAFT POINT. + +The large bay discovered on our way to the southward now became the point +of interest, and as daylight closed in the boats were secured in a small +sandy cove, just within its southern point, where there were several +native rafts, constructed precisely in the same manner as those seen in +King's Sound, from which circumstance we called the place Raft Point. +Immediately over it was the high land first seen in coming down the bay; +huge masses were rent from its lofty frowning crags, on which the rays of +the setting sun produced the most grotesque figures. A beautiful stream +of water fell into the sea, in leaping cascades, half a mile inside the +cove. Several rock kangaroos were seen on the heights; and after securing +observations with some early stars, for latitude, which placed Raft Point +in 16 degrees 4 minutes South, we tried an experiment to get a shot at +the kangaroos, by setting fire to the grass and small wood growing at the +base, and in the interstices of the rocks. + +A CONFLAGRATION. + +This part of the country being very dry, a fire was soon kindled, and in +a few minutes the cliffs resounded with the noise of the flames, as they +darted fiercely upwards, revealing their riven sides, and occasionally +bursting out behind large masses of strange figured rocks to the no +slight risk of our sportsmen, who were perched upon them. Seabirds, +frightened from their resting places, screamed fearfully, and the dismal +howl of the wild dog, equally alarmed, sometimes fell on the ear amidst +the roaring of the dangerous element, which in the intense darkness of +the night we could not but admire. Whilst gazing on this wild scene, I +could not help speculating on the probable cause the natives would assign +for this great conflagration; the bright glare of which must have +extended over several miles of country, perhaps alarming and doubtless +causing deep consultation amongst the wise men of their tribes. It may +also have taxed their power of invention, as they never use large fires +in the night, except in wild stormy weather, when the creaking trees, and +moaning wind, give them a dread of a visit from the Evil Spirit. + +April 13. + +Being anxious to examine the range over the cove, I desired Mr. Helpman +to explore the North-East corner of this large bay, and the main lying +behind the islands, fronting the coast to the northward of it. We +accordingly moved off on our several occupations at an early hour. After +much difficulty Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself found ourselves on a tableland +of sandstone formation, elevated by measurement 900 feet above the sea +level, and by far the highest land yet noticed on this part of the +continent; the prospect here was very cheerless; similar but lower ranges +met the eye in every direction towards the interior, those overlooking +the eastern shore of the bay, were from 6 to 700 feet high. There +appeared to be a large island in its North-East corner, which fell back +about 10 miles, and like many other parts of it was lined with a growth +of mangroves. A string of smaller islands extended three miles from the +north point, leaving an entrance only two miles wide. A sandstone ridge +similar to that on which we stood, rose abruptly from the north point, +but of less elevation. I was not a little surprised to find that +Lieutenant Grey had seen land from 2 to 3000 feet high, only about 30 +miles from the height on which we stood, but as he had not the means of +measuring these great elevations, and as Captain King, who was within 20 +miles of the high land alluded to, does not notice it, yet mentions some +hills from 3 to 400 feet high, 15 miles further to the North-East, I am +induced to believe that Lieutenant Grey may have over-estimated the +height of the land he saw.* + +(*Footnote. Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, which are not nine hundred +feet high, are the first points of the continent that meet the eye from +seaward.) + +DOUBTFUL BAY. + +From subsequent information, I called this Doubtful Bay; the tide ran +into it at the rate of from 1 to 3 knots, but the clear appearance of the +water, and entire absence of driftwood, afforded strong grounds for +supposing that it did not receive the waters of any river. Leaving Raft +Point, we crossed over to the islands on the opposite side, for a few +angles on their southern extreme, and afterwards made the best of our way +to Freshwater Cove. The day had, however, closed in long before arriving +there, and in the extreme darkness of the night the Cove was difficult to +find. Indeed my companions could not believe we were there until one of +the men returned with a keg of water from the stream in the head of it. + +MR. HELPMAN'S REPORT. + +Mr. Helpman joined us at sunset, and gave the following report of his +proceedings: "On leaving the cove at Raft Point, we passed along the +south shore for two miles, and landed on a point that afforded a most +commanding view of the bay, and the openings in its North-East corner, +which appeared to be formed by a large island lying near the shore. This +supposition afterwards proved to be correct, on landing at a point +fronting its western extreme, from whence I was enabled to trace the +shore round the North-East corner of the bay, till I identified it as the +same we had seen on the eastern side of the island from the station just +left. From the still and discoloured state of the water, I felt satisfied +there was no opening in the North-East corner of this bay. I am, however, +willing to admit it may have been more satisfactory to others if there +had been sufficient time at my disposal to have actually gone round the +island. We now hastened off to examine the mainland, lying behind a chain +of islands to the northward, where we also failed to discover an +opening." + +MOUTH OF THE GLENELG. + +As this account of Mr. Helpman's coincided with the opinion I had formed +of the other parts of the coast, I was induced at that time to come to +the conclusion that the river Glenelg which I found Lieutenants Grey and +Lushington had discovered, on my return to the ship, did not communicate +with the sea in this neighbourhood, as Lieutenant Grey had supposed, but +took a South-West direction, flanking Collier Bay, and terminating in the +mangrove openings on the eastern shore of Stokes' Bay in King's Sound. My +opinion was strengthened by Lieutenant Lushington having seen from his +furthest position (which has already been given) a very high bluff point +to the southward, distant 6 or 7 miles, and a line of cliffs under which +he conceived that an opening of the sea or a river may run. Further +experience has convinced me of the great difficulty attending the +discovery of the mouths of rivers in Australia, and as Mr. Helpman did +not actually visit the North-East corner of Doubtful Bay (named in +consequence) I am inclined to believe there is a possibility of the mouth +of the Glenelg still being found there. + +April 14. + +We were on our way to Point Hall before the eastern hills had received +their golden hue from the rays of the rising sun, and landed to ascend +the summit of that headland from the bay, on its South-East side, which +proved to be a safe anchorage, except with South-West winds, having a +small islet in its centre. We ascended the height on the lee side, and as +the sun was now approaching the zenith the heat became very oppressive; +but the air was quite perfumed with the rich fragrance of different gums. +This warm aromatic odour we always experienced in a slighter degree on +first landing in North-western Australia. + +REMARKABLE TREE. + +I noticed a tree quite new to me, it was of stunted growth, bearing a +fruit resembling a small russet apple, which hung in clusters at the +extremity of small branches; the skin was rough, covering a pulp that had +an acid flavour, inside of which was a large stone, and I observed a +white fluid exuded from the branches when broken. Although this was +almost a solitary tree, I have since learnt it grows in the southern +parts of the continent. As the woodcut and description given in page 82, +Volume 1 of Sir Thomas Mitchell's work on Australia, is almost identical +with this fruit, it must be indigenous to a great extent of country, +since Sir Thomas Mitchell found it in latitude 29 degrees 50 minutes +South whilst by us it was discovered in 15 degrees 40 minutes South. We +did not observe any other change in the vegetation on this point; of +birds we saw but few, chiefly parrots, some of which we shot. A coast +range of brown grassy hills prevented our seeing anything of the +interior. To seaward there was neither islet nor reef to interrupt the +blue surface of water that bounded our view in the far north-west. + +Descending we embarked from a cove on the North-East side, where the +boats had been ordered to meet us; between this and one on the opposite +side there was only a narrow neck of low land. It is singular that we +should not have seen any natives, or even traces of them anywhere +excepting at Raft Point, during the whole of this cruise. + +THE SLATE ISLES. + +Pursuing our northerly course, we reached a small group of islands, named +from their formation, Slate Isles. Finding that all the material required +here for the chart could not be collected this evening, I desired Mr. +Helpman to go on to Brecknock harbour, to sound and examine its southern +shore the next morning, whilst Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself remained to +complete the survey hereabouts. + +April 15. + +We were on the top of the northern Slate Island early; a small islet with +a reef off its northern extreme, bore north a mile and a half, and a low +sandy isle, West 1/4 North about 15 miles; this was a most unwelcome +discovery, as it lay in the track of vessels approaching Brecknock +Harbour, and which Captain King must have passed very close to in the +night without being aware of it. We were fortunate in being able to +intersect our lines to the extremes of all the islands forming the north +side of Camden Sound from this station, which rendered it one of great +importance. Of the interior we saw even less than from Point Hall, and +the prospect if possible was more cheerless. + +Our again meeting rocks of transition origin, led us to infer that the +soil in the neighbourhood was of a better quality, as the decomposition +of rocks of this class furnishes a much more fertile soil than sandstone +of recent formation. + +Leaving the Slate Islands, we reached Entrance Isle, in Brecknock +Harbour, in time to secure observations for the rates of the +chronometers, which we found had been performing admirably; they placed +the sandy bay on the east side of Entrance Isle, in longitude 124 degrees +30 minutes East; the latitude as before given, 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes +South. + +FERTILE COUNTRY. + +At this place Mr. Helpman rejoined us, having completed the examination +of the south shore of the harbour; from a high hill over it he discovered +some fine country, bearing East-South-East about eight miles. In speaking +of it, he says, "I was invited to the top of this hill by the certainty +of a good view of the interior over the low land forming the +south-eastern shore of the harbour, and most amply was I repaid for the +toil of ascending it, by feasting my eyes on a most luxuriant +well-watered country, lying at the eastern foot of a remarkable peak, +visible from Port George the Fourth. To the North-East there lay a range +of hills,* apparently of no great elevation. + +(*Footnote. Macdonald Range of Lieutenant Grey, considered by him 1400 +feet high.) + +BRECKNOCK HARBOUR. + +Part of this rich land extended to within five miles of the south-eastern +part of Brecknock Harbour." The proximity of such fertile land to this +fine port was of great importance, and induced us to consider it a great +addition to our discoveries in north-western Australia. Under this +impression, I trust the following brief description of it may not be +without its value in the eyes of some of my readers. Brecknock Harbour is +six miles deep, extending gradually from a width of one and three quarter +miles at the entrance to five at the head, and has a depth of water +varying from five to seven fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom. The few +observations on the tides our short visit afforded, make the time of +high-water, on full and change day, about half an hour before noon, when +the rise is nearly thirty feet, and the strength of stream in the +entrance nearly two knots. + +LIEUTENANT GREY. + +April 16. + +Although very anxious to learn if they had in the ship heard anything of +Lieutenant Grey's party, still I did not like to break through my usual +rule of indulging in a thorough cleansing of men and boats, before making +our appearance on board, we therefore did not make an early start. In +clearing Roger Strait, we heard the cry of a native, who was seen with +the aid of a spy-glass, perched on a distant cliff, watching our +movements. I scarcely believed it possible to have heard his shrill voice +so far. We reached the ship, lying in Port George the Fourth, early in +the afternoon, and found on board a most welcome addition to our little +party, in the person of Lieutenant Grey. I met him again, with feelings +of the greatest satisfaction; for though none were, perhaps, fully aware +of it, a feeling of despondency as to the fate of himself and his +companions, had more than once occurred to me, which each day's delay +much increased, and which this agreeable rencounter at once effectually +removed. Poor fellow! gaunt misery had worn him to the bone; and I +believe, that in any other part of the world, not myself alone, but +Lieutenant Grey's most intimate friends, would have stared at him without +the least approach to recognition. Badly wounded, and half starved, he +did, indeed, present a melancholy contrast to the vigorous and determined +enthusiast we had parted from a few months before at the Cape, to whom +danger seemed to have a charm, distinct from success. + +No sooner had we ascertained the safety of the rest of the party, than, +as might be supposed, we fell into a long and animated conversation upon +the success of the expedition. They had discovered a river, called by +them the Glenelg, and a tract of fine country, which, from Lieutenant +Grey's description, I instantly recognised as being the same Mr. Helpman +had seen from Brecknock Harbour. + +A spot, sixty miles in a South-South-East direction from Hanover Bay, +indicates their furthest distance towards the interior. The rugged nature +of the country in the neighbourhood of this coast, and its vast distance +from the interior, from whence it is further removed than any other part +of the continent, justify the expression of an opinion that this was an +ill-chosen spot for the debarkation of an expedition for inland research; +though unquestionably its proximity to our East Indian possessions, would +make it, if suitable in other respects, a most valuable spot for +colonization. I shall always regret that Lieutenant Grey and his +companions had not the advantage of starting from the Fitzroy, or +exploring yet further the unknown course of the Victoria, by which I am +now convinced, a most successful attempt to reach the interior might be +made. + +Alas! while we cannot but regret the prodigal sacrifices of health and +energy made to acquire such a limited knowledge of a part of the +continent, hitherto utterly unknown, we must not forget to do justice to +the perseverance which opposing obstacles could defeat, but not daunt; +and in what it did accomplish, furnished additional motives to renewed +exertion, and useful suggestions by which more fortunate followers may +reap the success deserved by, though denied, to the first adventurers. + +The worn and haggard aspect of Lieutenant Grey and all his companions, +spoke of itself how severe had been the hardships they were called on to +endure: I need not say that their wants were relieved with the utmost +eagerness of frank hospitality, and that their tales of hair-breadth +escapes and moving accidents awoke all ears, and stirred in every heart. +To meet with a countryman in a foreign land, is of itself generally an +agreeable incident: the tones of one's native language, or the +reminiscences of one's earlier and happier years, which such a meeting +recalls, are sure to bestow upon it a pleasure of its own. What was it +then to meet a former fellow voyager, and a friend? To meet him after +almost despairing of his safety? and to meet him fresh from a perilous +and partially successful attempt to penetrate into the same unknown and +mysterious country, a further and more perfect acquaintance with which +was a prime object of my own personal ambition, no less than of public +duty with all engaged in our present adventure? Those who have known the +communion of sentiment and interest, which it is the tendency of one +common purpose to create among all by whom that purpose is shared, can +most readily and most perfectly understand with what deep and mutual +interest Lieutenant Grey and myself heard and recounted all that each had +done since our parting at the Cape. + +Several anecdotes of his adventures confirmed my own experience, and add +weight to the opinions I have before expressed. From his description of +the tribes his party had encountered, he must have been among a people +more advanced in civilization than any we had hitherto seen upon this +coast. He found several curious figures,* images, and drawings, generally +in colours, upon the sides of caves in the sandstone rock, which, +notwithstanding their rude style, yet evince a greater degree of +advancement and intelligence than we have been able to find any traces +of: at the same time it must be remembered that no certain date +absolutely connects these works with the present generation: the dryness +of the natural walls upon which they are executed, and the absence of any +atmospheric moisture may have, and may yet preserve them for an +indefinite period, and their history read aright, may testify not the +present condition of the Australian School of Design, but the perfection +which it had formerly attained. + +(*Footnote. Illustrated in Lieutenant Grey's first Volume.) + +LIGHT-COLOURED NATIVES. + +Lieutenant Grey too, like ourselves, had seen certain individuals in +company with the natives much lighter in colour, and widely differing in +figure and physiognomy from the savages by whom they were surrounded; and +was inclined to believe that they are descended from Dutch sailors, who +at different times, suffering shipwreck upon the coast, have intermarried +with its native inhabitants: but as no authentic records can be produced +to prove that this portion of the coast was ever visited by Dutch +navigators at all, I am still more disposed to believe that these lighter +coloured people are Malays, captured from the Trepang fishers, or perhaps +voluntarily associating with the Australian, as we know that the +Australian not unfrequently abandons his country, and his mode of life, +to visit the Indian Archipelago with them. + +Before pursuing any further the train of speculation in which my thoughts +naturally enough arranged themselves, owing to this meeting with +Lieutenant Grey, it may be as well to advert to the circumstances under +which he and his party were found by Captain Wickham. It seems that on +moving into Port George the Fourth, the ship's guns were fired in order +to apprize the wanderers, if within hearing, that friends and aid were at +hand. These signals were heard on board the Lynher, and were at once +rightly understood to denote the presence of the Beagle. At that time, +however, the master of the Lynher--the schooner which Lieutenant Grey had +chartered at the Cape, was himself in no small perplexity as to the fate +of those he had transported to this lonely coast; and was now growing +exceedingly anxious at their non-appearance. + +The next morning, the 9th, Captain Wickham started in the yawl for +Hanover Bay, in order to prosecute the search at the point where he knew +Lieutenant Grey's depot was to be established, and on rounding the +headland the first welcome object that met his eye was the schooner at +anchor. Captain Wickham learnt from Mr. Browse the master, that the +period for which the schooner was chartered having expired, he was only +waiting the return of the expedition from motives of humanity. The +further care of Lieutenant Grey and his comrades was at once undertaken +by Captain Wickham, by whom it was determined, owing to the shortness of +provisions on board the Beagle, to proceed to Timor on the return of the +boats, in the hope of being able to revictual there, leaving some +conspicuous record of his recent visit, with hidden letters declaratory +of his proceedings, and promising his speedy return. A party was +immediately despatched on shore, and upon the face of the sandstone cliff +they painted in characters of gigantic proportion, Beagle Observatory. +Letters South-East 52 paces. Of necessity compelled to wait for the +boats, Captain Wickham returned to the Beagle. + +CAPTAIN WICKHAM'S MEETING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY. + +On the morning of the 15th, Lieutenant Grey, accompanied by two of his +party, made his appearance upon the shores of Hanover Bay, after a twelve +weeks wander in the interior; during which, great hardships, fatigue, and +peril had been undergone, and much curious and valuable information +collected. Hearing of the proximity of the Beagle, he lost not a moment, +but hastened to assure Captain Wickham that the whole party was safe, and +spent the evening of the 15th--that previous to my return--among those +who sympathized with his sufferings, and heartily welcomed him once more +on board. After the first greetings had been exchanged between us, +Lieutenant Grey professed the utmost anxiety to hear whether, during our +late excursion in the boats, we had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, +the river first seen by him on the 2nd of March. I was of course +compelled to inform him that we had found no trace of any river, although +the coast from Port George the Fourth to the bottom of Collier Bay, an +extent of nearly one hundred miles, had been examined, and with the +exception I have already noticed, too closely to admit of mistake. + +AN EVENING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY. + +The next afternoon I followed Lieutenant Grey round to Hanover Bay, +distant twelve miles from the Beagle's anchorage. On the passage I +noticed that the remarkable bluff, spoken of by Captain King, had been +omitted in the charts, and a low rocky point marked in its place. It was +after sunset when we reached the schooner in Hanover Bay; the greater +part of the night was devoted to an examination of Lieutenant Grey's +plans of his expedition, and the drawings with which various events in it +had been illustrated. All these were executed with a finished carefulness +one could not have expected to find in works carried on in the bush, and +under such varied circumstances of distraction and anxiety as had +followed Lieutenant Grey's footsteps: though terribly worn and ill, our +opportune arrival, and the feeling that he was among those who could +appreciate his exertions, seemed already to operate in his recovery. Upon +an old and tattered chart, that had indeed done the state some service, +we attempted to settle the probable course of the Glenelg, the knotty +question held us for some hours in hot debate; but as in a previous +paragraph, I have rendered my more deliberate opinions, I need not here +recount the varied topics discussed during that memorable evening: but it +may be readily imagined with how swift a flight one hour followed +another, while I listened with eager impatience to Lieutenant Grey's +account of a country and people till now unknown even to English +enterprise. He appears to have seen the same kind of grape-like fruit* +that we observed in King's Sound. + +(*Footnote. Grey's Australia Volume 1 page 211.) + +THE ENCAMPMENT. + +I took the boat in the afternoon at high-water to proceed to the +encampment, which we were then able to approach within a quarter of a +mile. It was situated in the depth of a creek, into which a clear and +sparkling stream of fresh water poured its abundance: the shore was +formed of enormous granite boulders, which rendered it hardly accessible +except at high-water; and the red sandstone platform which is here the +nature of the coast, was abruptly intersected by one of those singular +valleys which give so marked and so distinctive a characteristic to +Australian geology. The separated cliffs approach to within about a +quarter of a mile of each other, and then--still preserving their +precipitous form--recede some three miles inland, in a southerly +direction, and there rejoining, make any passage from Walker's Valley* to +the interior a barely practicable feat. + +(*Footnote. So named by Lieutenant Grey to commemorate the services +rendered by the surgeon of his party in finding a road from it to the +interjacent country.) + +TIMOR PONIES. + +The encampment consisted of a few roofless huts, placed irregularly upon +a carpet of rich grass, whereon six Timor ponies were recruiting after +the fatigues of a journey in which they appeared to have borne their full +share of privation and danger. Their marketable value was indeed but +small, and Lieutenant Grey had, therefore, determined to leave them +behind in the unrestrained enjoyment of their natural freedom. + +My visit was made after the encampment had been finally abandoned, and +the thought that a little spot once tenanted by civilized man was about +to be yielded to that dreary solitude from which for a while he had +rescued it, made the pilgrimage a melancholy one. The scene itself was in +strict keeping with such thoughts--the rugged and lofty cliffs which +frown down upon the valley--the flitting shadows of the watchful eagles +soaring far over my head--and the hoarse murmurs of the tide among the +rocky masses on the beach--ail heightened the effects of a picture +engraven on my memory too deeply for time itself to efface. + +While the men were preparing for embarkation I strolled with Lieutenant +Lushington up the valley, a little beyond the late encampment: the Timor +ponies were busily engaged upon the fresh grass; near the banks of a +beautiful pool in which we both enjoyed a freshwater bath, I noticed a +small coconut tree, and some other plants, which he and his companions +had benevolently endeavoured to naturalize here: they seemed healthy +enough, but I should fear the rank luxuriance of surrounding and +indigenous vegetation will render the ultimate well-doing of the +strangers exceedingly doubtful. Assisted by our boats the whole party +embarked in the early part of the afternoon, and appeared highly +delighted to find themselves again on board the schooner. I was much +impressed with the emphatic manner in which Lieutenant Lushington bid the +shore a hearty farewell. The same evening the Lynher was moved round to +Port George the Fourth--thus affording us an opportunity of welcoming all +our former fellow-voyagers once more on board the Beagle; where we spent +one of those delightful evenings, known only to those who have been long +separated from the rest of the world. + +LEAVE PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH. + +On the 9th we left Port George the Fourth on our return to Swan River, in +company with the Lynher, in which Lieutenant Grey and his party had +arranged to proceed to the Mauritius. A finer port than this, in some +respects, can hardly be imagined. Like Hanover Bay, over which, however, +it possesses the advantage of an easier access from the sea, it affords +safe anchorage, abundance of fresh water, plenty of fuel, and a fine +beach for the seine: but the numerous islands and reefs which skirt this +coast greatly reduce the value of both these harbours. The Master of the +Lynher told me of certain tidal phenomena remarked by him during his +protracted visit to Hanover Bay: he had noticed that the highest tides +always occurred on the fourth day after the full or change of the moon, +and that they then attained a maximum height of twenty-five feet; while +during the neaps the difference between high and low-water sometimes did +not exceed twenty-four inches! + +During the short time that we were in this neighbourhood, the prevailing +winds were from South-East and to East from after midnight till noon, and +from West to North until midnight. Our progress through the day was but +slow; the wind light and most provokingly foul at West-North-West. + +ISOLATED ROCK. + +While standing towards a small island bearing North and by West five and +a half miles from Point Adieu, we discovered a single rock with +apparently deep water all around it, and just awash at low-water. It bore +North-West and by West three-quarters of a mile from this island, which +resembles Red Island, and Captain King's group of the Rocky Islands, in +that calcined-like appearance which has by turns given them red and brown +for a distinct appellation. In the afternoon we saw the sandbank laid +down in Captain King's chart; it appeared a white rocky islet. The night +was spent beating to the westward, between it and Red Island, against a +light breeze. + +April 20. + +At daylight, whilst standing to the South-West the water shoaled rapidly +though regularly from 20 to 6 fathoms, we then tacked, Red Island bearing +South-East one mile and a quarter; in standing out (north) the water +deepened suddenly and almost immediately to 15 fathoms. I imagine this +shoal to be a continuation of one laid down by Captain King, extending +two miles south from Red Island: passing the latter on our way to Port +George the Fourth we had 28 to 30 fathoms, two and a half miles from its +North-West side. + +April 21. + +We continued to make but little progress to the westward, scarcely +averaging more than a mile per hour: the soundings indicating that we +were still on the coral ledge that skirts the whole of this coast, +northward of Cape Leveque; on the raised parts of which are numerous +reefs of an irregular size and almost invariably trending from West to +North-West. The number of these low coral reefs already known, and the +probable number of those yet undiscovered, make this rather a dangerous +sea, and must have a tendency to lessen the value of the North-West coast +of Australia for purposes of forming settlements. In the afternoon we saw +again the reef discovered and named after the Beagle. Steering +West-North-West we passed four miles from its northern side in soundings +varying from 41 to 47 fathoms. + +REMARKABLE RIPPLINGS. + +April 23. + +Towards the close of this day we passed through a line of very remarkable +ripplings, extending in a north and south direction, which we knew +indicated some great inequality in the bottom, but whether from deep to +shoal water was a matter of some anxiety; therefore, with leadsmen in the +chains and the men at their stations for working ship, we glided into +this streak of agitated water, where plunging once or twice she again +passed into the silent deep. We sounded ineffectually with 86 fathoms in +the ripplings; for some time before the soundings had been regular 52 and +55 fathoms fine sand, and four miles beyond it we had 146 fathoms, but +did not succeed afterwards in reaching the bottom with 200 fathoms. This +line of disturbed water, therefore, marks the edge of the bank of +soundings fronting this part of the coast, from which the nearest point, +Cape Leveque, bore South-East 195 miles. + +PART FROM THE LYNHER. + +The Lynher having to pursue a more westerly course, we were of necessity, +though reluctantly, obliged to part company this evening: the few +evenings we passed together at sea were rendered very pleasant and +amusing by the crews singing to each other as the vessels, side by side, +slipped stealthily through the moonlit waters. + +April 24. + +Still pursuing a West-South-West course, at the slow rate of forty miles +daily, our position at noon was latitude 15 degrees 40 minutes South +longitude 120 degrees 41 minutes East. During the day we passed within +fifteen miles of the Lively's reef, and from the numbers of terns and +other small seabirds, seen for the last three days, there can be little +doubt of its whereabouts being known, and that during that time we had +been in the neighbourhood of other reefs still undiscovered. + +April 27. + +We experienced the long rolling swell of the Southern Ocean, which, as +well as our reckoning, informed us we were rounding North-West Cape; at +the same time we began to feel a steady breeze from the South-East and +the northerly current which there prevails. As we were now approaching +the usual track of vessels bound from Australia to India, we were not +unprepared for the somewhat unusual sight of a strange sail: an object +always of some little interest, but which becomes quite an event to those +whose duty leads them into the less frequented portions of the deep. + +THE TRYAL ROCKS. + +The increasing trade now carried on between Sydney and the gorgeous East, +has converted the dividing sea into a beaten track; and as no further +evidence has been brought forward to confirm the reported existence of +the Tryal Rocks, asserted to lie directly in the course steered by +vessels making this passage, I cannot but adhere to Captain King's +opinion, that Tremouille Island and its outlying reefs, situated in the +same latitude as that in which the Tryal Rocks are supposed to lie, have +originated the mistake;* one, be it observed, of longitude, in which +particular the accounts of earlier navigators must always be received +with caution. + +(*Footnote. Subsequent explorations have proved this to be the case.) + +ANECDOTES OF MIAGO. + +While our return to Swan River was thus baffled and delayed by the long +and almost unbroken continuance of foul winds, it afforded some diversion +to watch the countenance and conduct of Miago, who was as anxious as +anyone on board for the sight of his native land. He would stand gazing +steadily and in silence over the sea, and then sometimes, perceiving that +I watched him, say to me, "Miago sing, by and by northern men wind jump +up:" then would he station himself for hours at the lee-gangway, and +chant to some imaginary deity an incantation or prayer to change the +opposing wind. I could never rightly learn to whom this rude melody was +addressed; for if anyone approached him near enough to overhear the +words, he became at once silent; but there was a mournful and pathetic +air running through the strain, that rendered it by no means unpleasing; +though doubtless it owed much of its effect to the concomitant +circumstances. The rude savage--separated from all his former companions, +made at once an intimate and familiar witness of some of the wonders of +civilization, carried by his new comrades to their very country, and +brought face to face with his traditionary foes, the dreaded northern +men, and now returning to recount to his yet ruder brethren the wonders +he had witnessed--could not fail to interest the least imaginative. + +Yet Miago had a decided and most inexplicable advantage over all on +board, and that in a matter especially relating to the science of +navigation: he could indicate at once and correctly the exact direction +of our wished-for harbour, when neither sun nor stars were shining to +assist him. He was tried frequently, and under very varying +circumstances, but strange as it may seem, he was invariably right. This +faculty--though somewhat analogous to one I have heard ascribed to the +natives of North America--had very much surprised me when exercised on +shore, but at sea, out of the sight of land, it seemed beyond belief, as +assuredly it is beyond explanation: but I have sometimes thought that +some such power must have been possessed by those adventurous seamen who, +long before the discovery of the compass, ventured upon distant and +hazardous voyages. + +I used sometimes, as we approached the land of his nativity, to question +him upon the account he intended to give his friends of the scenes he had +witnessed, and I was quite astonished at the accuracy with which he +remembered the various places we had visited during the voyage: he seemed +to have carried the ship's track in his memory with the most careful +accuracy. His description of the ship's sailing and anchoring were most +amusing: he used to say, "Ship walk--walk--all night--hard walk--then by +and by, anchor tumble down." His manner of describing his interviews with +the "wicked northern men," was most graphic. His countenance and figure +became at once instinct with animation and energy, and no doubt he was +then influenced by feelings of baffled hatred and revenge, from having +failed in his much-vaunted determination to carry off in triumph one of +their gins. I would sometimes amuse myself by asking him how he was to +excuse himself to his friends for having failed in the premised exploit, +but the subject was evidently a very unpleasant one, and he was always +anxious to escape from it. + +In spite of all Miago's evocations for a change of wind we did not see +Rottnest Island before the morning of the 25th. The ship's track on the +chart after passing the North-West Cape, resembled the figure seven, the +tail pointing towards the north. We passed along the south side of +Rottnest, and by keeping its south-western extreme shut in with the south +point, cleared the northern end of the foul ground extending +North-North-West from a cluster of high rocks called the Stragglers. + +RETURN TO SWAN RIVER. + +As Gage Road was not considered safe at this time of the year, the ship +was taken into Owen's anchorage under the guidance of Mr. Usborne. We +first steered for the Mew Stone, bearing south, until the leading marks +could be made out; they are the western of two flat rocks lying close off +the west side of Carnac Island and a large white sand patch on the north +side of Garden Island. The rock must be kept its own breadth open to the +eastward of the highest part of the patch; these marks lead over a sort +of bar or ridge of sand in 3 and 3 1/2 fathoms; when the water deepened +to 5 and 7 fathoms, the course was then changed to East-South-East for a +patch of low cliffs about two miles south of Fremantle, which brought us +up to Owen's anchorage in 7 and 8 fathoms, passing between Success and +Palmelia Banks. + +Thus concluded our first cruise on this almost hitherto unknown part of +the continent; and looking at its results we had every reason to feel +satisfied, having appended 300 miles of new land to our geographical +store, and succeeded in an object of paramount interest in this country, +the discovery of a river. Besides the nautical information obtained, some +additions were made to the secondary objects of the voyage, by increasing +our knowledge of the natural history and indigenous productions of +North-western Australia. + +CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE. + +During the period of our visit we had a temperature varying from 76 to +125 degrees; the weather generally fine, with moderate south-easterly +winds, and occasionally heavy squalls from the eastward, excepting in the +month of February and part of March, when we experienced heavy falls of +rain, accompanied by fresh westerly winds. But as these changes have +already been noticed in the diary, it is needless to enter into further +detail about them here. + + +CHAPTER 1.8. SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY. + +Miago's reception by his countrymen. +Whale Fishery. +Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers. +Neglected state of the Colony. +Test security of Owen's Anchorage. +Weather. +Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony. +Friendly meeting between different Tribes. +Native beggars. +Personal vanity of a Native. +Visit York. +Description of Country. +Site of York. +Scenery in its neighbourhood. +Disappointment experienced. +Sail from Swan River. +Hospitality of Colonists during our stay. +Aurora Australis. +Gale off Cape Leeuwen. +Stormy passage. +Ship on a lee shore. +South-west Cape of Tasmania. +Bruny Island Lighthouse. +Arrive at Hobart. +Mount Wellington. +Kangaroo Hunt. +White Kangaroo. +Civility from the Governor. +Travertine Limestone. +Leave Hobart. +Singular Current. +Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney. +Position of Lighthouse. +Entrance and first view of Port Jackson. +Scenery on passing up the Harbour. +Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington. +Apparent increase of Sydney. +Cause of Decline. +Expedition sails for Port Essington. +Illawarra. +Botany Bay. +La Perouse's Monument. +Aborigines. +Meet Captain King. +Appearance of Land near Sydney. + +MIAGO'S RECEPTION BY HIS COUNTRYMEN. + +We were considerably amused with the consequential air Miago assumed +towards his countrymen on our arrival, which afforded us a not +uninstructive instance of the prevalence of the ordinary infirmities of +our common human nature, whether of pride or vanity, universally to be +met with both in the civilised man and the uncultivated savage. He +declared that he would not land until they first came off to wait on him. +Decorated with an old full-dress Lieutenant's coat, white trousers, and a +cap with a tall feather, he looked upon himself as a most exalted +personage, and for the whole of the first day remained on board, +impatiently, but in vain prying into each boat that left the shore for +the dusky forms of some of his quondam friends. His pride however could +not long withstand the desire of display; yielding to the impulse of +vanity, he, early the following morning, took his departure from the +ship. Those who witnessed the meeting described it as cool on both sides, +arising on the part of his friends from jealousy; they perhaps judging +from the nature of his costume, that he had abandoned his bush life. Be +that as it may, the reception tended greatly to lower the pride of our +hero; who through generosity (expending all his money to purchase them +bread) or from a fear of being treacherously speared, soon convinced his +former associates how desirous he was of regaining their confidence. He +did not, however, participate in the revelry then going on amongst the +natives at Fremantle, where, at this period of the year, they assemble in +great numbers to feast on the whales that are brought in by the boats of +a whaling establishment--which I cannot allude to without expressing an +opinion that this fishery, if properly managed and free from American +encroachments, would become one of the most important branches of +industry. + +During the time that Miago was on board we took great pains to wean him +from his natural propensity for the savage life by instilling such +information as his untutored mind was capable of receiving, and from his +often-expressed resolutions we were led to hope a cure had been effected; +great was our disappointment then on finding that in less than a +fortnight after our arrival, he had resumed his original wildness, and +was again to be numbered amongst the native inhabitants of the bush. To +us he had been the source of great mirth, by the absurd anecdotes he +sometimes related about his countrymen. His account of their conjectures +respecting the arrival of the first settlers may amuse the reader; he +said, "the ships were supposed to be trees, and the cattle large dogs +(the only animal besides the kangaroo known to them) whose size and horns +excited such alarm, that one which strayed into the bush being met by a +party of natives made them climb up the nearest trees in the greatest +terror." + +STATE OF THE COLONY. + +It may give some definite idea of the neglected state of this infant +colony, to mention that during the entire period of our absence--a space +of six months--there had been but one arrival there, and that not from +England. The solitary visitor was H.M.S. Pelorus from the Indian station. +The want of communication with the mother country was beginning to be +felt severely, and in matters of graver moment than mere news. Many +necessary articles of home manufacture or importation, scarcely valued +till wanted, were now becoming almost unattainable: one familiar instance +will illustrate at once how this state of things presses upon the comfort +of the colonists; the price of yellow soap had risen to four shillings +per pound! + +OWEN'S ANCHORAGE. + +The usual winter anchorage in Cockburn Sound, being seven miles from the +town of Fremantle, the colonists were naturally very anxious to see +tested the equal security of one which we had chosen within half that +distance. The point was fairly tried, and very satisfactorily determined +during the heavy weather which we experienced on the 31st of March, and +11th of June, which did not raise more sea than a boat at anchor could +have ridden out with safety. These gales lasted about forty-eight hours +each, commencing at North by West and gradually blowing themselves out at +West-South-West. In each instance a heavy bank of clouds in the +north-west gave us a day's notice of their approach. The indications of +the barometer were less decisive; its maximum was 29.3. + +The weather in the interval between these gales was wet and unsettled; +but afterwards, until our departure, it continued remarkably fine with an +average temperature of 60 degrees. + +The winds at this season prevail from the land, the seabreezes being both +light and very irregular. + +ANNIVERSARY OF THE COLONY. + +We were just in time to share in the annual festivities with which the +inhabitants celebrate the formation of the colony. Horseracing, and many +other old English sports showed that the colonists still retain the +tastes and habits of home. Some of the aborigines took part in the +amusements of the day with evident enjoyment: and we were surprised to +find that in throwing the spear they were excelled by an English +competitor. We hardly know how to reconcile this fact with our own +favourite theories upon the perfection of the savage in the few exercises +of skill to which he devotes his attention, and were obliged to take +refuge in the inadequate suggestion that the wild man requires a greater +degree of excitement than his more civilised competitor, to bring out, or +call into action, all the resources of his art. Among the natives +assembled were a small party from King George's Sound: they had come to +Perth, bearing despatches from that place. The good understanding which +appeared to exist between them and their fellow-countrymen in this +district, led me to believe that by bringing different tribes more +frequently together, under similar happy auspices to those which convened +the meeting of to-day, much might be done to qualify the eager and deadly +hatred in which they are too prone to indulge. + +The natives in the town of Perth are most notorious beggars: the softer +sex ply this easy craft even more indefatigably than the men. Their +flattering solicitations and undeniable importunity seldom altogether +fail of success, and "quibra (i.e. ship) man," after the assurance that +he is a "very pretty gentleman," must perforce yield to the solicitation +"tickpence give it um me." + +There was one amongst them, who from some accident had lost several of +his toes. When in conversation, if he fancied any person was observing +his foot, he would immediately endeavour to conceal the part that was +thus disfigured by burying it in the sand. Another instance, exemplifying +how prevalent is the frailty of vanity in the heart of man in his +primitive condition. + +VISIT YORK. + +As a little time was required to give the ship a slight refit and the +crew some relaxation, it afforded an opportunity of visiting York, +situated about sixty miles east from Perth, and at that extremity of the +colony. Accordingly, one murky afternoon a small party of us were wending +our way over the Darling Range. Long after dark the welcome bark of dogs +rang through the forest in the still dark night, assuring us that shelter +was at hand, and we soon found ourselves before a large fire in the only +house on the road, enjoying, after a dreary wet ride, the usual fare at +that time at the out-stations--fried pork and kangaroo. About this +tenement was the only spot of land along the whole line of road that +could at all lay claim to anything like fertility; at which I was the +more surprised, as our route intercepted the direction in which patches +of good land are generally found in this part of the continent. The soil +of this little piece was of a rich black mould and well watered by a +neighbouring spring. Our road lay in some places over tracts of loose +white sand, and in others round and over low ironstone hills. Descending +from one of these heights to a rich narrow flat, the presence of three or +four houses informed us we were within the township of York. The position +of the level it occupies forms the western bank of the river Avon, which +is now and has been for some time past nothing more than a chain of +waterholes. In this neighbourhood the hills lie detached from one another +in irregular directions, and are composed of granite; from the summit of +one on the western side of the town we looked over a vast expanse of +undulating forest land, densely wooded, with scarcely a grassy patch to +break the monotony of the view. To give an idea of the personal labour +early settlers are obliged to undergo, I may mention that we found Mr. +Bland, the most wealthy colonist in Western Australia, engaged in holding +the plough. I was disappointed in my visit to this part of the country as +it did not leave a favourable impression of its fertility--still it +afforded me an opportunity of judging by comparison of the quality of the +soils in Western Australia and on the banks of the Fitzroy, and I was +happy to find I had not overrated the latter. + +The odium of a recent murder in the vicinity committed by natives had led +to their absenting themselves just now from York, but a few of their +numbers too young for suspicion were employed in the capacity of servants +and appeared sharp and intelligent lads. + +SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER. + +On the 20th of June we took leave of our friends in Western Australia, +proceeding out of Owen's anchorage by a passage recommended by the +Harbour-Master, in which we found half a fathom less water than the one +through which we entered. During our stay there, nothing could exceed the +kindness with which we were welcomed, and we experienced that proverbial +hospitality of colonists which in this instance we shall ever remember +with feelings of the most sincere and heart-felt pleasure. + +It may appear out of place inserting it here but on our first arrival at +Swan River in November last, we saw the Aurora Australis very bright. + +At midnight of the 23rd of June we passed Cape Leeuwin, the south-western +extremity of the continent; named by the first discoverer in 1622, Landt +van de Leeuwin or the land of Lions. The wind which had increased since +the morning to a fresh gale from the northward, now suddenly veered round +to the westward, accompanied with rain and causing a high cross-sea. + +GALE OFF CAPE LEEUWIN. + +These sudden shifts of wind frequently raise a very dangerous sea off +Cape Leeuwin.* This made the third gale we had experienced since the 30th +of May, and is recorded here from its commencing at North-East instead of +at north, the usual point at which gales in these regions begin. During +the stormy weather which prevailed throughout the passage, we were +unceasingly attended by those majestic birds and monarchs of the +ocean--the White Albatross (Diomedia exulans) which with steadily +expanded wings sailed gracefully over the surface of the restless main in +solemn silence, like spectres of the deep; their calm and easy flight +coursing each wave in its hurried career seemed to mock the unsteady +motion of our little vessel as she alternately traversed the deep hollows +and lofty summits of the high-crested seas. + +(*Footnote. In a gale off this Cape in 1836, H.M.S. Zebra was compelled +to throw her guns overboard.) + +July 6. + +It was our intention to have passed through Bass Strait, but finding we +were unable to weather King Island bore up on the 6th for Hobart. On the +evening of the same day we were by a sudden change of the wind placed in +one of those perilous situations in which both a good ship and sound gear +are so much required; the wind, which had been northerly throughout the +day, about 8 P.M. veered round to west, blowing a heavy gale with a high +sea; and since we had now run about halfway along Van Diemen's Land, left +us with an extensive and dangerous shore under our lee. Through the +dismal gloom of the night, during which there was incessant rain with a +succession of heavy squalls, the angry voice of nature seemed indeed to +be raised in menace against us, and it was not until the close of the +next day that a slight abatement of the weather relieved our anxiety for +the safety of the ship. During the night the wind backed round to the +North-West and the sky became once more partially clear. Early on the +morning of the 8th we descried the south-western extremity of the land of +Van Diemen, discovered in 1633 by the celebrated Dutch Navigator, Abel +Tasman, and so named by him after the Governor of Batavia, under whose +authority the voyage thus crowned with success had been performed. + +TASMANIA. + +To this portion of Australasia I shall systematically apply the name of +Tasmania, in honour of that adventurous seaman who first added it to the +list of European discoveries. The same principle appears to have been +recently acted upon by the Government in creating the Bishopric of +Tasmania, and I may therefore plead high authority to sanction such +innovation:* higher perhaps than will be required by him who calls to +mind that hitherto the navigator who added this island, and the scarcely +less important ones of New Zealand to the empire of science, has been +left without a memorial, the most befitting and the most lasting that +universal gratitude can consecrate to individual desert. The insular +character of Tasmania was not fully ascertained till the year 1798, when +the intrepid Bass, then surgeon of H.M.S. Reliance, while on a whaleboat +cruise from Sydney, discovered the strait which bears his name. + +(*Footnote. Mr. Greenough, late President of the Geological Society, in +his anniversary address to that body on the 24th of May, 1841, remarks +that, "It is much to be regretted that Government has not recognised +Tasmania as the name of that island, improperly denominated Van Diemen's +Land. The occurrence of a second Van Diemen's Land on the northern coast +of Australia occasions confusion; and since Tasman, not Van Diemen, was +the first discoverer of the island, it would be but just that whatever +honour the name confers should be given to the former navigator." Journal +of the Royal Geographical Society of London volume 11 1841 part 1.) + +SOUTH-WEST CAPE. + +Towards 10 A.M. steering East by South before a long rolling sea, we +passed about six miles from the South-west Cape of Tasmania. There was no +opportunity at the time of determining exactly the amount of error in the +position assigned to it in the present charts, but we were satisfied that +it was placed at least five miles too far south. The Maatzuyker Isles, a +group a few miles to the south-east of this cape, are also incorrectly +laid down. The view of this headland was of a very impressive and +remarkable character, and to add to the usual effect of its lonely and +solitary grandeur, a heavy sea still vexed and swelling from the +turbulence of the recent gale, was breaking in monotonous regularity +against its white and aged face; rising a thousand feet precipitously +above the level of the sea, and terminating in a peak, rendered yet more +conspicuous by a deep gap behind it. + +The adjacent coast had a singularly wild, bare, and storm-beaten +appearance. We beheld the rugged and treeless sides of barren hills; and +here and there, where vegetation struggled with sterility, its stunted +growth and northern inclination caused by the prevailing winds testified +to an ungenial clime; high, bare-faced peaks appeared occasionally +through the thick clouds that girdled them, and the whole coastline +forcibly reminded us of the dreary shores of Tierra del Fuego. + +BRUNY ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE. + +On opening d'Entrecasteaux Channel, we observed a splendid lighthouse +erected by Sir John Franklin, on the South-West extremity of Bruny +Island, and which serves to guide entering vessels clear of the shoals in +the mouth of that channel, formerly fatal to so many a luckless voyager, +wrecked within sight of the hoped-for shore, upon which he might never +set his foot. The situation of the lighthouse appears admirably chosen, +and it may readily be seen in the daytime, a wide gap being cut in the +woodland behind it. In alluding to the great improvement in the +navigation of d'Entrecasteaux Channel, by the erection of the lighthouse +on Bruny Island, it must be remembered that we are indebted to the +indefatigable exertions of Lieutenant Burnett, R.N., who had been +appointed Marine Surveyor to the colony by the Admiralty, for a knowledge +of the exact position of its dangers. In prosecuting this service, I +grieve to say, his life was lost, by the upsetting of a boat in one of +those sudden gusts of wind which sweep down the steep valleys on the +sides of that channel. This sudden termination of Lieutenant Burnett's +labours has been deplored alike by the colony, and by the profession of +which he was so bright an ornament. + +We entered Storm Bay after dark against a strong North-West wind, which +quite vindicated the title of the bay to the name it bears, and so much +delayed our progress, that it was morning before we were abreast of the +Iron Pot lighthouse at the entrance of the Derwent River, and after dark +before we reached Sullivan's cove, Hobart. + +Although the passage up the river was tedious and annoying from the +adverse and squally wind that prevailed throughout the day, we were +almost repaid for the delay by the scenery each tack brought to our view, +and to which the remembered aspect of the shores we had so recently +quitted, seemed by contrast to add a yet more delightful verdure. + +As we proceeded, we noticed since our last visit, several bare patches in +the woodlands, where the axe and the brand of the enterprising colonists +had prepared the way for that cultivation under the influence of which +the landscape wore in places an almost English aspect. This fancied +resemblance--inspiring by turns delightful anticipation and fond +regret--was heightened by the occasional addition of many pretty little +cottages scattered along the sloping banks of the river, and adding to +the luxuriant appearance of the country, the peaceful grace and sanctity +of home. + +July 19. + +We were detained at Hobart till the 19th, the bad state of the weather +rendering it impossible to complete the requisite observations for rating +chronometers, etc. + +MOUNT WELLINGTON. + +We had two or three snowstorms during the time, but even in fine weather +the proximity of Mount Wellington, towering above Hobart, and throwing +its strange square-headed shadow across the still waters of Sullivan's +cove, must always render Fort Mulgrave an unfavourable spot for +observations, from its arresting the progress of each passing cloud. The +pleasure of our return was very much enhanced by the kind hospitality +with which we were received by the inhabitants, and the officers of Her +Majesty's 21st regiment. From Sir John Franklin the Governor, we +experienced all the attention and courtesy--all the frank and generous +hospitality which it was in his power to bestow. Had we been without the +claims of previous acquaintance to have recommended us to his best +offices, the fact that our voyage was intended to advance the cause of +science, would have been quite sufficient to interest in our welfare, one +who has achieved a reputation as enduring as it is honourable, amid the +perils and trials connected with an Arctic campaign of discovery. + +The unfavourable state of the weather also prevented us from visiting and +enjoying the alpine scenery in the neighbourhood of Hobart. + +KANGAROO HUNT. + +We did, however, get a few miles from the town upon one occasion, when +the fox-hounds of a gentleman, Mr. Gregson, who will be long remembered +in the colony for his pedestrian and equestrian performances--met in the +neighbourhood to hunt the kangaroo. A thoroughly English appreciation of +all that promised sport, led a large party of us to join the meet, at a +place called the Neck. The turnout was by no means despicable: the hounds +were well bred, though rather small--perhaps an advantage in the sort of +country over which their work lies. A tolerable muster of red coats gave +life and animation to the scene, and forcibly reminded us of a coverside +at home. + +The hounds found a large kangaroo almost immediately upon throwing off, +and went away with him in good earnest. There was a burning scent, and +from the nature of the country, over which we went for some distance +without a check, the riding was really desperate. The country was thickly +wooded, with open spaces here and there, in which fallen trees lay half +hidden by long grass. Riding to the hounds was therefore as necessary as +dangerous, for once out of sight it was almost impossible to overtake or +fall in with them. Most of the field rode boldly and well, yet I remarked +one or two casualties: early in the run, a gentleman was swept off his +horse by the projecting branch of a tree, under which he was going at a +reckless pace, and another had his hat perforated immediately above the +crown of his head. Yet notwithstanding the annoyance of ferrying our +horses across the Derwent, we returned to Hobart, very much pleased with +the day's sport.* + +(*Footnote. In the first volume of the Tasmanian Journal, will be found +an animated description of Kangaroo-hunting with these hounds, by the +Honourable H. Elliot, who mentions that on one occasion a large kangaroo +gave them a run of eighteen miles.) + +WHITE KANGAROO. + +In a gentleman's house there, I saw for the first time, a specimen of an +Albino or white variety of kangaroo, Halmaturus bennettii.* Another +object that interested me greatly was a quarry of travertine limestone, +in the neighbourhood of Hobart, where I saw the impression** of leaves of +plants, not in existence at present, and of a few shells of ancient +species. + +(*Footnote. One of this rare kind, was presented by Sir John Franklin to +her Majesty, in whose menagerie at Windsor it died, and was sent +afterwards to the British Museum, where it now may be seen.) + +(**Footnote. Drawings of these impressions, together with the shells will +be found in Count Strzelecki's scientific work.) + +SAIL FROM HOBART. + +We sailed from Hobart on the 19th of July and carried a strong fair wind +to within a few days' sail of Sydney, when we experienced a current that +set us 40 miles South-East in 24 hours; this was the more extraordinary +as we did not feel it before, and scarcely afterwards; and our course +being parallel to the shore, was not likely to have brought us suddenly +within the influence of the currents said to prevail along the coast. The +ship's position was 40 miles east of Jervis Bay when we first met it. + +July 24. + +This morning the clearness of the atmosphere enabled us at an elevation +of 50 feet, to distinguish the light near the entrance of Sydney Harbour, +while at a distance of thirty miles from it. Its site has been admirably +chosen for indicating the position of the port from a distance at sea, +but it has been placed too far from the entrance to be of much service to +vessels when close in shore.* The low land in the vicinity of Sydney and +Botany Bay, presents a striking contrast with the coast of the Illawarra +district, a little further southwards; where the sea washes the base of a +lofty range of hills, which sweeping round some distance in the rear of +the two former places, leaves an extensive tract of low country between +them and the sea. Upon the summit of these hills there rest almost +invariably huge clouds, which serve even through the gloom of the darkest +night, to assure the anxious navigator of his position. + +(*Footnote. Some years since a ship with convicts was driven at night by +a South-East gale, close in with the light, and was obliged to run for +the harbour, but being then without anything to guide her into the +entrance, was wrecked on the south point. The loss of life was dreadful. +The light lately erected near the Sow and Pigs reef, has in some measure +remedied the evil here pointed out: but being too far within, and on the +south side of the entrance, it is not made out till, with southerly +winds, a ship has approached dangerously close to the North Head.) + +APPROACH TO SYDNEY. + +On approaching Sydney, a stranger cannot fail of being delighted with his +first glance at the noble estuary which spreads before and around him. +After sailing along a coastline of cliffs some 200 feet in height, and in +general effect and outline not unlike those of Dover, he observes an +apparent breach in the sea-wall, forming two abrupt headlands, and ere he +has time to speculate upon the cause of that fancied ruin, his ship +glides between the wave-worn cliffs into the magnificent harbour of Port +Jackson. The view which solicits the eye of the sea-wearied voyager as he +proceeds up the harbour, is indeed well calculated to excite a feeling of +mingled admiration and delight--the security and capacity of the +port--its many snug coves and quiet islets with their sloping shores, +sleeping upon the silver tide--pretty white cottages and many +English-looking villas peeping out here and there from their surrounding +shrubberies, and the whole canopied by a sky of ethereal blue, present a +picture which must at once enchant the most fastidious observer. + +We found lying in the famous cove of Sydney, H.M.S. Alligator and +Britomart, commanded by Captain Sir Gordon Bremer, and Lieutenant (now +Captain) Owen Stanley, going to form a settlement at Port Essington on +the North coast; an expedition of much interest, particularly to us, from +having some old shipmates engaged in it. + +CONTRAST WITH SOUTH AMERICA. + +On first arriving at Sydney from South America, I was much struck with +the strange contrast its extensive and at the same time youthful +appearance presented to the decrepit and decaying aspect of the cities on +that continent. We had then been visiting colonies and settlements +founded centuries ago, by a nation at that time almost supreme in +European influence, and planted with every circumstance of apparent +advantage upon the shores of a fertile and luxurious continent given by +the immortal Genoese to the crown of Spain. We had found them distracted +by internal commotions, disgraced by ignorance, debased by superstition, +and defiled by slavery. + +COLONISATION. + +In Sydney we beheld with wonder what scarce half a century had sufficed +to effect; for where almost within the memory of man the savage ranged +the desert wastes and trackless forests, a noble city has sprung as +though by magic from the ground, which will ever serve both as a monument +of English enterprise, and as a beacon from whence the light of Christian +civilisation shall spread through the dark and gloomy recesses of +ignorance and guilt. The true history of our Australian possessions; the +causes which have led to their settlement; the means by which they have +been established; the circumstances by which they have been influenced; +and the rapid, nay, unexampled prosperity to which they have attained; +present some of the most curious and most important laws of colonisation +to our notice. Without attempting so far to deviate from my present +purpose as to enter here on a deduction from the data to which I have +alluded, it cannot be denied that, in the words of an eloquent writer in +Blackwood, "a great experiment in the faculty of renovation in the human +character, has found its field in the solitudes of this vast continent: +that the experiment has succeeded to a most unexampled and unexpected +degree: and that the question is now finally decided between severity and +discipline." What else remains, what great designs and unfathomed +purposes, are yet reserved to grace this distant theatre, I pause not now +to guess. The boldest conjecture would probably fall very far short of +the truth. It is sufficient for us to know that Providence has entrusted +to England a new empire in the Southern seas. Nor can we doubt that there +as elsewhere throughout the various regions of the habitable globe, the +same indomitable spirit which has achieved so many successes, will +accompany those whom heaven has appointed as pioneers, in that march of +moral regeneration and sound improvement long promised to the repentant +children of earth. + +QUARANTINE ESTABLISHMENT. + +We were sorry to find that it had been necessary to form a quarantine +establishment in the North Harbour, in consequence of the diseases +brought to the country by emigrant ships. A number of tombstones, +whitening the side of a hill, mark the locality, and afford a melancholy +evidence of the short sojourn in the land of promise which has been +vouchsafed to some. + +EXPEDITION TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +It not being the favourable season for commencing operations in Bass +Strait, we remained at Sydney until November, and embraced the +opportunity of clearing out the ship. Our stay was undiversified with +incidents, and it may as well therefore be briefly passed over. Among the +few occurrences worth mentioning, was the departure of the expedition +sent out to form a settlement at Port Essington on the northern coast. +Its object was simply military occupation, it having been deemed +advisable about that time to assert practically the supremacy of Great +Britain over the Continent by occupying some of its most prominent +points; but as soon as its destination became known in the colony, +several persons came forward as volunteer-settlers, and expressed the +greatest anxiety to be allowed to accompany the expedition. Their views +extended to the establishment of a trade with the islands in the Arafura +sea; and certainly they would have been far more likely to draw forth the +resources of the country, than a garrison, whose supplies are brought to +them from a distance, whose presence holds out no inducement to traders, +and who are not impelled by any anxiety for their own support to discover +the riches of the soil. For these reasons the determination of Government +not to throw open the lands, and their refusal to hold out the promise of +protection to the individuals who expressed a desire to accompany the +expedition, are greatly to be regretted. In a vast continent like +Australia, so remarkably destitute of fixed inhabitants, it would seem +that every encouragement should be afforded to persons desirous of +locating themselves on unoccupied tracts. There is a great difference +besides, between giving rise to delusive hopes--inducing people as it +were under false pretences to repair to new settlements--and checking the +spirit of colonisation when it manifests itself. Every young +establishment must go through a certain process. It is necessary that +some should pioneer the way for others; and endure hardships the +beneficial results of which may be enjoyed only by their successors. Had +advantage been taken of the enterprising spirit that prevailed at the +time of which I speak, the germs of a fresh settlement would have been +deposited at Port Essington, which must ultimately have risen into +importance. A great stream of emigration was pouring into the +south-eastern portion of Australia, and it would have been wise to open a +channel by which some portion of it might have been drawn off to the +northern coast. But such were not the views entertained by the +authorities concerning this matter. They seemed apprehensive of incurring +the blame of encouraging the speculating mania which raged so extensively +at Sydney, and which has reacted with so pernicious an effect upon the +colony.* the expedition accordingly retained its purely military +character. However, I may add, that the Bishop of Australia attended to +the spiritual wants of the settlement by sending with it a church in +frame. + +(*Footnote. On our arrival at Sydney in 1838, we found speculation at its +height: land-jobbers were carrying on a reckless and most gainful trade, +utterly regardless of that revulsion they were doomed soon to experience. +Town allotments that cost originally but 50 pounds were in some instances +sold, three months afterwards, for ten times that sum. Yet amid all this +appearance of excessive and unnatural prosperity there were not wanting +those who foresaw and foretold an approaching change. To the withdrawal +of the convicts, solely at the expressed wish of some of the most wealthy +colonists, has been traced much of the decline that followed; and the +more recent pages in the history of Sydney will fully bear out the +opinions expressed by Captain Fitzroy when he visited it in 1836: he +says, "It is difficult to believe that Sydney will continue to flourish +in proportion to its rise. It has sprung into existence too suddenly. +Convicts have forced its growth, even as a hot bed forces plants, and +premature decay may be expected from such early maturity.") + +BOTANY BAY. + +During our stay at Sydney we paid a visit to Botany Bay, which from the +circumstance of its being the point first touched at by Captain Cook, +naturally possesses the greatest interest of any place in the +neighbourhood. Our way thither lay over a sandy plain, into which the +coast range of low hills subsides. There is little or no verdure to +relieve the eye, which encounters aridity wherever it turns; and the sand +being rendered loose by frequent traffic, the foot sinks at every step, +so that the journey is disagreeable to both man and beast. These +inconveniences, however, were soon forgotten on our arrival at our +destination, amidst the feelings excited and the associations raised by +the objects that presented themselves. + +MONUMENT TO LA PEROUSE. + +Within the entrance of the bay, on the northern side, stands a monument* +erected to the memory of La Perouse, that being the last spot at which +the distinguished navigator was heard of, from 1788, until 1826, when the +Chevalier Dillon was furnished with a clue to his melancholy fate by +finding the handle of a French sword fastened to another blade in the +possession of a native of Tucopia, one of the Polynesian group. By this +means he was enabled to trace him to the island of Mannicolo, on the +reefs fronting which his ship was lost. + +(*Footnote. On the eastern side is engraven: A la Memoire de Monsieur de +la Perouse. Cette terre qu'il visita en MDCCLXXXVIII. est la derniere +d'ou il a fait parvenir de ses nouvelles. + +Also: Erige au nom de la France par les soins de MM. de Bougainville et +Du Campier, commandant la fregate La Thetis, et la corvette L'Esperance, +en relache au Port Jackson, en MDCCCXXV. + +On the western side: This place, visited by Monsieur de la Perouse in the +year MDCCLXXXVIII, is the last whence any accounts of him have been +received. + +Also: Erected in the name of France by MM. de Bougainville and du +Campier, commanding the frigate the Thetis and the corvette the Hope, +lying in Port Jackson, A.D. MDCCCXXV. + +On the north: Le fondement pose en 1825; eleve en 1828. + +On the south: Foundation laid in 1825, completed 1828.) + +Close by, on the same point, stands the tomb of a French Catholic priest, +named Le Receveur, who accompanied La Perouse, as naturalist, in his +circumnavigation of the globe, and died at this great distance from his +native land. A large stump of a tree rising near, "marks out the sad +spot" where lie mouldering the bones of the wanderer in search of +materials to enrich the stores of science. No doubt many a hope of future +fame expired in that man's breast as he sank into his last sleep in a +foreign clime, far from his home and friends and relations, such as his +order allowed him to possess. The applause of the world, which doubtless +he fancied would have greeted his labours at the end of his perilous +journey, he was now robbed of; and he must have felt that few would ever +recollect his name, save the rare voyager who, like myself, having +encountered the same dangers that he had braved, should chance to read +his short history on the narrow page of stone that rests above his grave. + +CAPE SOLANDER. + +Another object of greater interest to the Englishman is observable on +Cape Solander, the opposite point of the bay. It is a plate set in the +rock, recording the first visit of the immortal Cook, to whose enterprise +the colonists are indebted for the land that yields them their riches, +and which must now be invested in their eyes with all the sanctity of +home. Surely it would become them to evince a more filial reverence for +the man who must be regarded as in some respects the father of the +colony. Let us hope that they will one day raise a monument to his +memory, which to be worthy of him must be worthy of themselves--something +to point out to future generations the spot at which the first white +man's foot touched the shore, and where civilisation was first brought in +contact with the new continent. + +ILLAWARRA. + +But though Botany Bay is interesting from the associations connected with +it--I am quite serious, though the expression may raise a smile on some +of my readers' lips--the tract of country best worth seeing in the +neighbourhood of Sydney, is Illawarra, commonly called the Garden of New +South Wales. By a change in the formation from sandstone to trap, a soil +this here produced capable of supporting a vegetation equal in luxuriance +to any within the tropics. In the deep valleys that intersect the +country, the tree-fern attains a great stature, and throwing out its rich +spreading fronds on all sides forms a canopy that perfectly excludes the +piercing rays of even an Australian sun. It is impossible to describe the +feelings of surprise and pleasure that are excited in the mind of the +traveller as he descends into any one of these delightful dells: the +contrast in the vegetable kingdom strikes him at once; he gazes around on +the rich masses of verdure with astonishment, and strongly impressed with +the idea that enchantment has been at work, involuntarily rubs his eyes +and exclaims, "Am I in Australia or in the Brazils?" + +ABORIGINES. + +Few only of the aborigines of the neighbourhood of Sydney are now to be +seen, and these are generally in an intoxicated state. Like most savage +tribes they are passionately addicted to spiritous liquors, and seek to +obtain it by any means in their power. Out of a sugar bag, with a little +water, they manage to extract a liquor sufficient to make half a dozen of +them tipsy; and in this condition, as I have observed, they most +frequently presented themselves to my view. They are in every respect a +weak, degraded, miserable race, and are anything but a favourable +specimen of the benefits produced by intercourse with polished nations on +an uncivilised people. However, the natives of Australia vary as +strangely as its soil; the members of the tribes that dwell about +Shoalhaven and the small southern ports, and come up in coasting vessels, +are good-looking, useful fellows, and may hereafter be made much of. I +noticed also, in my circumnavigation of the continent, a remarkable +diversity in the character of the natives, some being most kindly +disposed, while others manifested the greatest hostility and aversion. My +whole experience teaches me that these were not accidental differences, +but that there is a marked contrast in the dispositions of the various +tribes, for which I will not attempt to account. I leave in the hands of +ethnologists to determine whether we are to seek the cause in minute +variations of climate or in other circumstances, physical or historical. +This I can say, that great pains were formerly taken to civilize the +natives of Sydney, gardens were given them, and numerous attempts made to +inculcate habits of order, and communicate a knowledge of European arts; +but no advantageous results ensued, and it was at length deemed +impossible not only to improve them, but even to prevent their +deterioration. I cannot determine whether this evinces a natural +inaptitude in the savage to learn, or too great impatience in the +teachers to witness the fruits of their labours, and a proneness to be +discouraged by difficulties. + +"IS THIS GRASS?" + +In the journal of my residence at Sydney I find as the result of one +day's experience, the following laconic and somewhat enigmatical +memorandum: "Is this grass?" The question implies a doubt, which it would +not be easy for any person unacquainted with the circumstances of time +and place, to solve: but the reader, when he has seen the explanation, +will understand why very pleasing associations are connected with this +brief note. I was going down to the jetty late one evening, when I met a +party just landed, evidently complete strangers in this quarter of the +world. Their wandering and unsteady glances would have convinced me of +this fact, had their whole appearance left any doubt about the matter: +among them were some ladies, one of whom suddenly detached herself from +her companions, and directed as it were by instinct through the gloom, +hastened towards a few sods of turf, pressed them exaltingly with her +foot, and exclaimed in a light, joyous, happy voice--through which other +emotions than that of mere gladness struggled--"Is this grass?" The words +were nothing. They might have been uttered in a thousand different tones +and have not fixed themselves on my memory; but as they fell in accents +of delight and gratitude from the lips of the speaker, they told a whole +story, and revealed an entire world of feeling. Never shall I forget the +simple expression of this newcomer, whose emotions on first feeling the +solid earth beneath her tread, and touching a remembrance of the land she +had left in quest of another home, will be incomprehensible to no one who +has crossed the ocean. + +CAPTAIN KING. + +We met several persons at Sydney from whom we received valuable +information, and particularly Captain King, who, as the reader may +recollect, commanded the first expedition on which the Beagle was +employed. His great scientific attainments must ever attach respect to +his name, and his explorations on the Australian coast, previous to the +survey in which we were engaged, together with his father's services as +Governor of New South Wales, give him and his children a lasting claim +upon the country. The information he furnished on this and subsequent +occasions was extremely valuable. + +RISING OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. + +An observation of his gave rise in my mind to very curious conjectures; +he told me that where he used formerly to anchor the vessel he commanded +in the head of Sydney cove, there was now scarcely sufficient water to +float even a boat. As the deposits of the small stream that flows into it +could not have produced this change, I was led to examine the shore of +the harbour, when I found what seemed to me to be the marks of the sea +higher than its present level; this, coupled with the decrease in the +soundings we found in Darling Harbour, leads to the legitimate inference +that this part of the continent is rising; and my reader will recollect +that it is a prevalent theory that the whole of the vast plains of +Australasia have but recently emerged from the sea. + +CHAPTER 1.9. BASS STRAIT. + +Leave Sydney. +Enter Bass Strait. +Island at Eastern entrance. +Wilson's Promontory. +Cape Shanck. +Enter Port Phillip. +Tide-race. +Commence Surveying Operations. +First Settlement. +Escaped Convict. +His residence with the Natives. +Sail for King Island. +Examine Coast to Cape Otway. +King Island. +Meet Sealers on New Year Islands. +Franklin Road. +Solitary Residence of Captain Smith. +Soil. +Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement. +Leafless appearance of Trees. +Examine West Coast. +Fitzmaurice Bay. +Stokes' Point. +Seal Bay. +Geological Formation. +Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock. +Brig Rock. +Cross the Strait to Hunter Island. +Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks. +Three Hummock Island. +Rats. +The Black Pyramid. +Point Woolnorth. +Raised Beach. +Coast to Circular Head. +Headquarters of the Agricultural Company. +Capture of a Native. +Mouth of the Tamar River. +Return to Port Phillip. +West Channel. +Yarra-yarra River. +Melbourne. +Custom of Natives. +Manna. +Visit Geelong. +Station Peak. +Aboriginal Names. +South Channel. +Examine Western Port. +Adventure with a Snake. +Black Swans. +Cape Patterson. +Deep Soundings. +Revisit King and Hunter Islands. +Fire. +Circular Head. +Gales of Wind. +Reid's Rocks. +Sea Elephant Rock. +Wild Dogs. +Navarin and Harbinger Reefs. +Arrive at Port Phillip. +Sail for Sydney. +Pigeon House. +Drought. +Mr. Usborne leaves. + +Before quitting Sydney I must express my gratitude for the hospitality we +experienced during our stay, which prepared us with greater cheerfulness +to encounter the difficulties we might expect to meet with in the +boisterous waters that rolled between the then imperfectly known shores, +and islands of Bass Strait. It was not until the 11th of November that we +bade adieu to our friends, and sailed to commence our contemplated +operations. On the 14th we passed the rocky islands (Kent's Group) at the +eastern entrance of the Strait, their barren and bleak appearance bespoke +the constant gales that swept over them, checking every tendency to +vegetation. As we approached them the soundings decreased to 28 fathoms, +the observation of which fact apprises vessels coming from the eastward +in thick weather, of their proximity. After leaving these islands we +progressed but slowly, and the passage through the Strait promised to be +tedious: yet, as the wind was fair and the weather fine, we had no reason +to complain, considering moreover the remarkably mild reception we met +with in the Funnel, the name commonly and most appropriately given by the +colonists to Bass Strait, from the constant strong winds that sweep +through it. + +WILSON'S PROMONTORY. + +On the 17th we passed Wilson's Promontory, the southern extremity of +Australia, connected with the main by a low sandy isthmus, only left dry +it is probable of late years. It is a very mountainous tract, rearing its +many peaks in solemn grandeur from the waves and burying their summits* +at most seasons of the year, in a canopy of grey mist. On some occasions, +however, the bold outline of the mountains is relieved against a clear +sky, and their loftiest points catch the first rays of the morning sun, +as it rises from the eastern ocean. Many small islands are dispersed over +the sea in front of this promontory, and partake of its character, being +apparently the tops of mountains thrusting themselves up from the deep, +and suggesting the belief that new countries are about to be disclosed. +Passing Port Western, generally called Western Port, a high mound on the +south-eastern extremity of Grant Island was the most conspicuous object. +The next remarkable feature in the coast is Cape Shanck, a projection at +the western end of a long line of cliffs. Lying close off it is a rock, +named, from its exact resemblance, Pulpit Rock. + +(*Footnote. Nearly 3000 feet high.) + +PORT PHILLIP. + +In a small bay on the east side of this headland we caught a glimpse of +some rich valleys; but from thence for a distance of 16 miles, the coast +retains a barren sandy character to Port Phillip, which we reached on the +afternoon of the 18th. We scarcely found any ripplings in the entrance, +an occurrence of extreme rarity; for it will readily be imagined that a +body of water required to fill a bay thirty miles deep and twenty broad, +passing through an entrance one mile and a half in width, must rush with +great violence; and when we take into account the extreme unevenness of +the bottom (soundings varying from 40 to 25 and even 9 fathoms) no +surprise can be felt that such a stream, particularly when opposed to a +strong wind, should raise a dangerous sea. The force of it may be +conjectured from a fact of which I was myself witness. Standing on one of +the entrance points, I saw a schooner trying to get in with all sails set +before a fresh breeze, and yet she was carried out by the current. +Another observation is also recorded for the guidance of the stranger +passing into the port. When in the middle of the entrance, a low clump of +dark bushes breaking the line of white sand beach beyond Shortlands +Bluff, was just seen clear of the latter. + +The first appearance of Port Phillip is very striking, and the effect of +the view is enhanced by the contrast with the turbulent waves without and +in the entrance. As soon as these have been passed, a broad expanse of +placid water displays itself on every side; and one might almost fancy +oneself in a small sea. But the presence of a distant highland forming a +bluff in the North-East soon dispels this idea. Besides this bluff +(called by the natives Dandonong) Arthur's Seat, and Station Peak are the +principal features that catch the eye of the stranger. The latter, called +Youang by the natives, is one of a small group of lofty peaks rising +abruptly out of a low plain on the western shore of the bay; whilst +Arthur's Seat towers over the eastern shore, and forms the northern +extremity of a range subsiding gradually to the coast at Cape Shanck. + +Anchoring close to the southern shore, about three miles within the +entrance, we set to work in good earnest with our surveying +operations--in the first place selecting a conspicuous spot for +observation, from which all the meridians of our work in the western part +of the Strait were to be measured. For the sake of my nautical readers I +may mention that the western extreme of the cliffy patches on the south +shore of the bay, marks the place chosen. The nature of our employment +confining us to the neighbourhood of the entrance, we had no opportunity +of visiting the town of Melbourne, situated near the northern side of the +bay. This capital of Australia Felix had for a long time been known to +some squatters from Tasmania; but to Sir Thomas Mitchell the inhabitants +must ever feel grateful for revealing to the world at large the fertility +of the districts in its neighbourhood. It is not a little singular that +the attempt to form a settlement at this place in 1826 should have +failed. A fort was built and abandoned, and of the party of convicts who +accompanied the expedition, two escaped and joined the natives, by whom +one was murdered, whilst the other, contriving by some means to +ingratiate himself with them, remained in their company until 1835, when +he was discovered by the settlers from Tasmania. During the eleven years +he had passed in the bush, without coming in contact with any other +European, he had entirely forgotten his own language, and had degenerated +into a perfect savage. His intellect, if he ever possessed much, had +almost entirely deserted him; and nothing of any value could be gleaned +from him respecting the history and manners of the tribe with whom he had +so long dwelt. He received his pardon and went to Hobart, but such was +the indolence he had contracted that nothing could be made of him. + +The southern shore of Port Phillip is a singular long narrow tongue of +land, running out from the foot of the range of which Arthur's Seat is +the most conspicuous point. I infer from the limestone prevailing in it, +and containing shells of recent species, that it was once much beneath +its present level; in fact, that it stops up what was formerly a broad +mouth of the bay, leaving only the present narrow entrance at the western +extremity. Over its surface are scattered hills from one to two hundred +feet in height, in the valleys between which was found some light sandy +soil supporting at this time rich grass, and at various places a thin +growth of Banksia, Eucalypti, and Casuarina, all stunted and showing +symptoms of having been roughly used by the south wind. Near the spot we +had chosen for the centre of our observations was a well of inferior +water, and we did not find any better in the neighbourhood. The point in +question therefore will never be very eligible as a settlement. The +kangaroos are numerous and large, and the finest snappers I have ever +heard of are caught off this point, weighing sometimes as much as thirty +pounds. Our fishing experiments, however, were not very productive, being +principally sharks; thirteen young ones were found in a single female of +this species. + +SAIL FOR KING ISLAND. + +Bad weather prolonged our stay until the 26th of November. We had been +chiefly occupied in determining the position of the mouths of the various +channels intersecting the banks, that extend across the entire bay, three +miles within the entrance. The most available passages appeared to be +those lying on the south and west shores, particularly the former for +vessels of great draught; but we did not conclude the examination of them +at this time, sailing on the morning of the 26th to survey the coast to +the westward. The first thirteen miles, trending West by South was of a +low sandy character, what seemed to be a fertile country stretching +behind it. Two features on this line are worthy of notice--Point +Flinders, resembling an island from seaward, on account of the low land +in its rear; and the mouth of the river Barwon, navigable for boats +entering in very fine weather. On its northern bank, eight miles from the +sea is the site of the town of Geelong. Passing this the nature of the +country begins to change, and high grassy downs with rare patches of +woodland present themselves, which in their turn give place, as we +approach Cape Otway, to a steep rocky coast, with densely wooded land +rising abruptly over it. + +CAPE OTWAY. + +The above-mentioned Cape is the northern point of the western extremity +of Bass Strait, and is swept by all the winds that blow into that end of +the Funnel. The pernicious effect of these is evident in the stunted +appearance of the trees in its neighbourhood. It is a bold projection in +latitude 38 degrees 51 minutes, and appears to be the South-West +extremity of a ridge of granite gradually rising from it in a North-East +direction. About half a mile off it, lies a small detached reef. + +Having thus coasted the northern side of the Strait, we proceeded to +cross over to Tasmania to examine the southern side. About halfway is +King Island, extending in a north and south direction, thirty-five miles, +and in an east and west thirteen. It lies right across the entrance of +the Strait, about forty miles from either shore, and from its isolated +position is well adapted for a penal settlement. + +The more northern channel of the two formed by this island is the safer, +and the water deepens from 47 to 65 fathoms as you approach it from the +continent. Its outline is not remarkable, the most conspicuous point +being a round hill 600 feet high over the northern point called Cape +Wickham. We anchored in a bay on the North-West side, under New Year +Island, which affords shelter for a few vessels from all winds. There is +a narrow passage between the two, but none between them and the southern +point of the bay, which is open to the north-west. On the summit of one +of these islands boulders of granite are strewed, and they exhibit a very +remarkable white appearance from seaward when the sun has passed his +meridian. + +A SEALER'S FAMILY. + +A sealer had established himself on the north island with two wives, +natives of Tasmania. They were clothed in very comfortable greatcoats +made of kangaroo skins, and seemed quite contented with their condition. +Their offspring appeared sharp and intelligent. In another part of my +work I shall touch more fully on the history of these sealers, who style +themselves Residents of the islands. They further distinguish their +classes by the names of Eastern and Western Straits-men, according to the +position of the islands they inhabit. + +The sealers on New Year Island had a large whaleboat, which I was +somewhat puzzled to know how they managed, there being but one man among +them. He informed me, however, that his wives, the two native women, +assisted him to work the boat, which had been well prepared for the rough +weather they have to encounter in Bass Strait by a canvas half-deck, +which, lacing in the centre, could be rolled up on the gunwale in fine +weather. + +THE MUTTON BIRD. + +The principal occupation of these people during this month of the year is +taking the Sooty Petrel, called by the colonists the Mutton Bird, from a +fancied resemblance to the taste of that meat. It is at the present month +that they resort to the island for the purpose of incubation. They +constitute the chief sustenance of the sealers, who cure them for use and +sale: their feathers also form a considerable article of trade. Many +parts of the island were perfectly honeycombed with their burrows, which +greatly impede the progress of the pedestrian, and are in some cases +dangerous from snakes lying in them. The sealers told me that they had +lost a cat which died within an hour after the bite of one of these +reptiles. We here found cabbages and water, and the people informed us +that it was always their custom to plant a few vegetables on the islands +they frequented. + +From the top of this island we had a good view of the Harbinger reefs, +so-called from a convict ship of that name which was lost upon them and +all hands perished. I was glad to find they were only two detached rocks +lying three miles and a half from the shore, instead of, as reported, one +continued reef lying six or seven miles from the land. They bore north +six miles from our position. + +CAPTAIN SMITH. + +The sealers informed us that a house which we descried in the bay, was +occupied by a gentleman who had met with a reverse of fortune. We +accordingly paid him a visit next morning, and found that he was a +Captain Smith with whom the world had gone wrong, and who had accordingly +fled as far as possible from the society of civilised man and taken up +his residence on the shores of King Island with his family. He had given +the name of Port Franklin to the bay, which we changed to Franklin Road, +from its not being worthy of the title of a Port. He was led to choose +his position from its being in the neighbourhood of the only secure +anchorage from all winds, and near the best soil he had found after +traversing the whole of the island. According to his account it was +totally unfit for rearing sheep on a large scale; the bushes and grass +being so full of burrs that the wool was completely spoiled. The soil was +everywhere very inferior, and a few patches only of clean land was to be +found, the principal part being overrun with dense scrub and impervious +thickets. There were few elevations on the island, and those not of any +great magnitude, the loftiest point being scarcely seven hundred feet. +The formation of the neighbourhood of Captain Smith's house was granite: +water abounds. + +WEST SIDE OF KING ISLAND. + +The house in which this modern Robinson Crusoe dwelt was what is called a +Slab Hut, formed of rough boards and thatched with grass. He had a garden +in which grew some cabbages and a few other vegetables; but he complained +sorely of blight from the west winds. There are three varieties of +kangaroos on the island, and plenty of wildfowl on some of the lagoons; +so that supplies are abundant: but the few sheep he possessed were +rendered of little value from the burrs I have before mentioned. I could +not help pitying the condition of this gentleman and his interesting +family--a wife and daughter and three or four fine boys. They had +retained a few of the tastes and habits of civilized life, and I observed +a good library with a flute and music in the Slab Hut. It was with great +pleasure that I afterwards learned that Captain Smith's prospects had +brightened. He is now, I believe, a comfortable settler on the eastern +side of Tasmania. + +On the 29th we passed down the western shore of King Island, finding the +coast to be low, treacherous and rocky. We discovered some outlying rocks +a mile and half from shore, and about eleven miles south from New Year +Island. The most remarkable circumstance we noticed in this part of our +cruise, was the leafless appearance of the trees on the higher parts of +the island. It seemed as though a hurricane had stripped them of their +verdure. They reminded me strongly of a wintry day in the north. + +About eight miles from the extremity of the island we discovered a bay +affording good anchorage in east winds. It was afterwards called +Fitzmaurice Bay. From its neighbourhood a long dark line of black cliffs +stretches southward until within about three miles of the point, when the +ground sinks suddenly, whence vessels are apt to be misled and to fancy +that the island ends there, whilst in reality it stretches out into a low +dangerous rocky point, named after the writer, for about three miles +more. + +SEAL BAY. + +Rounding this we anchored on the eastern side of it in Seal Bay--a wild +anchorage, the swell constantly rolling in with too much surf to allow of +our commencing a series of tidal observations. This bay, in the mouth of +which lies a small cluster of rocks, is separated from the one on the +opposite side, by a strip of low sandy land, which, as I have said, may +easily be overlooked by vessels coming from the westward. A ship indeed +has been lost from fancying that the sea was clear south of the black +cliffs that skirt the shore down from Fitzmaurice Bay. The Wallaby are +numerous on this part of the island. Mr. Bynoe shot one (Halmaturus +bellidereii) out of whose pouch he took a young one which he kept on +board and tamed. It subsequently became a great pet with us all. + +I noticed here a trappean dyke, but the general formation of this end of +King Island exactly corresponded with that about Captain Smith's house, +which shows that it is a continuous ridge of granite. The south-eastern +shore is rather steep, and the ground which rises abruptly over it is +almost denuded of wood. + +Leaving Seal Bay--from the south point of which we saw the principal +dangers at this extremity of Bass Strait, Reid's rocks bearing East by +South 1/4 South 12 miles--we coasted round the eastern shore and anchored +off a sandy bay about the centre of the island. The only remarkable +object was a rock, lying one mile from the shore and five from Seal Bay, +on which we bestowed a name suggested by its form, Brig Rock. Off the +north point of the bay in which we anchored lies a white rock or islet +called Sea Elephant Rock, with a reef a mile off its north point. +Opposite this is a small inlet fed by the drainage of some lagoons or +swamps behind the bay. Northward the character of the coast, as far as we +could see, changes considerably, being lower, with a continued line of +sandy shore. + +A breeze from the eastward prevented our completing the survey of the +northern side of the island; but one important result we had arrived at, +namely, that safe anchorage may be obtained in west winds within a +moderate distance of this part of the shore in less than fifteen fathoms. + +CROSS THE STRAIT. + +We now crossed over to the group of islands fronting the north-western +point of Tasmania, and confining the southern side of the mouth of the +Strait. The tide setting to the South-West at the rate of three knots an +hour* brought us within five miles of Reid's rocks. Passing at that +distance from their eastern side we had 28 and 30 fathoms sand and rock: +and the greatest depth we found in crossing was 37 fathoms towards the +south side of the Strait. + +(*Footnote. This set of the tide being rather across the channel renders +the passage between King Island and Reid's rocks by no means +recommendable. Captain King on returning to New South Wales, used this +passage and was very nearly wrecked; the set of the tides at that time +not being known. It appears they saw the south point of King Island just +at dark, and shaped a course well wide of Reid's rocks; they found +themselves, however, drifted by the tide close on them. We made the time +of high-water at the full and change of the moon in this entrance of the +Strait to be half an hour before noon; but the western stream began three +hours and a half before, and the eastern again precedes low-water by the +same amount of time.) + +A SECURE ANCHORAGE. + +Early on the morning of December 3rd, we reached a secure anchorage +between Three Hummock Island, and Hunter, formerly called Barren Island; +and we had every reason to be thankful at finding ourselves in such a +snug berth, for during our stay, we experienced gales from east and west, +with such sudden changes that no ship could have saved herself. This made +us sensible how necessary it was to choose anchorages sheltered from both +winds. Our surveying operations were sadly delayed by this boisterous +weather. + +Three Hummock Island receives its name from three peaks rising on its +eastern side. The south rises abruptly from the water and forms a +singular sugarloaf 790 feet high. It is composed of granite, boulders of +which front many of the points, forming strange figures. The whole of the +island is clothed with an almost impervious scrub, which growing +laterally forms a perfect network, so that it is impossible to traverse +it. Mr. Bynoe procured few specimens of birds in consequence. The +woodcutters one day cut a small brown opossum in half: it seemed to be a +very rare if not a new animal; but unfortunately the head part could not +be found. Small brown rats were very numerous, they had rather short +tails with long hind feet, and sat up like kangaroos. + +The trees on this island are small and stunted, being chiefly Banksia and +Eucalypti. Water is plentiful. We supplied the ship from wells dug on the +north point of a sandy bay on the South-East side of the island.* + +(*Footnote. The reef that so nearly sealed the Mermaid's fate with +Captain King, we found to lie half a mile north-west from the north-east +end of Three Hummock Island.) + +BARREN ISLAND. + +Hunter Island well deserves its former name of Barren, for it is +perfectly treeless; a green kind of scrub overruns its surface, which at +its highest point is three hundred feet above the level of the sea. In +form it is like a closed hand with the fore-finger extended, pointing +north. The inclination of its strata differs, dipping to the sea on both +sides, east and west. These at first sight appeared to be of the same +kind of sandstone that we had seen so much of on the North-West coast, +but on closer inspection I found they were raised beaches; the prevailing +mass of the island was a granitoid rock. + +THE BLACK PYRAMID. + +From stations on Hunter Island we were enabled to determine the positions +of the numerous dangers fronting its west or seaward side, and also that +of a dark mass of rock, 250 feet high, appropriately named the Black +Pyramid, lying 16 miles West by North from the centre of the island, and +in latitude 40 degrees 28 minutes South which places it nearly five miles +south of its position in the old charts. It is quite a finger-post to +this entrance of the Strait, and all ships should pass close to it. When +I looked at these islands and rocks I could not help thinking of poor +Captain Flinders and his enterprising companion Mr. Bass, the discoverers +of the north-western part of Tasmania. What a thrill of excitement must +have shot through their frames when on rounding Hunter Island, in the +little Norfolk cutter, they first felt the long swell of the ocean and +became convinced of the insular character of Tasmania! This discovery +must have amply repaid them for all their toils and privations. Nothing +indeed is so calculated to fill the heart of the navigator with pride, as +the consciousness that he has widened the sphere of geographical science, +and added new seas and new lands to the known world. + +The south end of Hunter Island is about three miles from a point of the +mainland, called Woolnorth; but from the rocks and inlets that encumber +the passage and the rapid rush of the tide it is only navigable for small +vessels with great caution. Point Woolnorth is a rather low sloping point +composed of the same rock as Hunter Island. Ten miles south of it a +raised beach again occurs 100 feet above the level of the sea. Behind +Point Woolnorth the country swells into hills nearly six hundred feet +high. Three miles from its extreme is an out-station of the Van Diemen's +Land Agricultural Company, of which I shall say more anon. Some forty +persons are here located under the care of a German, who amused himself +by making a large collection of insects, which he has since taken to +Germany. The soil on this extremity of Tasmania is most productive; but +much labour is required in clearing for the purposes of cultivation. From +thence to Circular Head, bearing East 1/2 South 26 miles, the shore is +low and sinuous, forming three shallow bights. + +WALKER ISLAND. + +Walker and Robbins islands, which lie together in the shape of an +equilateral triangle, with sides of nine miles, front the coast about +midway, and leave only a narrow boat-channel between them and the main. + +On Walker Island our boats met the wives of some sealers whose husbands +had gone to King Island on a sealing excursion. They were clothed like +those on New Year Island. One was half European and half Tasmanian, and +by no means ill-looking; she spoke very good English and appeared to take +more care of her person than her two companions, who were aborigines of +pure blood. A few wild flowers were tastefully entwined with her hair, +which was dressed with some pretensions to elegance. They had a pack of +dogs along with them, and depended in a great measure for their +maintenance on the Wallaby they killed. The skin also of these animals +constitutes to them an important article of trade. + +It was the 15th before we had completed for the present our survey of +this part, owing as I have before observed, to the constant bad weather, +which was doubly felt by the boats in which all the materials for the +chart of this neighbourhood were collected. + +CIRCULAR HEAD. + +We now examined the coast to Circular Head, under the north side of which +we anchored in 7 fathoms on the morning of the 18th, after spending a day +under the South-East corner off Robbins Island, where we found good +anchorage in westerly winds. Making too free with the shore with a low +sun ahead, we grounded for a short time on a shingle spit extending off +the low point North-West from Circular Head. Three quarters of a mile +East-North-East from this point is a dangerous rocky ledge just awash, on +which several vessels have run. By keeping the bluff extreme of Circular +Head open it may always be avoided. + +The latter is a singular cliffy mass of trappean rock, rising abruptly +from the water till its flattened crest reaches an elevation of 490 feet. + +This strange projection stands on the eastern side of a small peninsula. +On the parts broken off where it joins the sandy bay on the north side, +we found the compass perfectly useless, from the increased quantity of +magnetic iron ore they contain. + +It is on this point that the headquarters of the Van Diemen's Land +Agricultural Company are established under the charge of a Mr. Curr, +whose house with its extensive out-buildings and park, occupying some +rising ground on the northern part of the point, greets the eye of the +stranger, to whom the reflection is forcibly suggested by the sight, that +the natural graces of the scene, must soon yield to the restraining +regularity with which man marks his conquests from the wilderness. The +name of this faint memento of home was, we were informed, Hyfield; a +straggling village occupies a flat to the left, and in the bay on the +south side of the head, which is the general anchorage, is a store with a +substantial jetty. + +English grasses have been sown at this establishment with great success, +one acre of ground now feeding four sheep, instead of as before, four +acres being required for one; the improvement in the grass was also made +evident by the excellent condition in which all the stock appeared to be. + +HYFIELD. + +The garden at Hyfield was quite in keeping with the other parts of the +establishment, and it was not a little pleasing to observe a number of +English fruit trees. I was told, however, that they suffered exceedingly +from blight which was brought by the west winds. In one corner that at +first escaped my curiosity, so completely had it been shut out from the +gaze of all by a winding bowery walk, I found in a sort of alcove, the +tomb of a child; upon it lay a fresh bouquet of flowers, revealing that +the dead was not forgotten by those who were left behind. It was easy to +divine, and I afterwards learned this to be the case, that it was the +mother, Mrs. Curr, who came every morning to pay this tribute of +affection to the departed. A weeping willow drooped its supple branches +over the tomb; some honey-suckle and sweet-briar surrounded it, loading +the air with their rich fragrance; not even the chirping of a bird +disturbed the solemn silence that reigned around; everything seemed to +conspire to suggest holy and melancholy thoughts, and I lingered awhile +to indulge in them; but perceiving by the few footmarks that I was an +intruder, hastened to retire, by no means sorry, however, to have +discovered this evidence of the enduring love a mother bears her +offspring. + +In the Park at Hyfield were some fallow deer, imported from England, and +seeming to thrive exceedingly well. There were also two emus, the sight +of which reminded me of a very curious observation I had before made, and +the truth of which again struck me forcibly, namely, that the face of the +Emu bears a most remarkable likeness to that of the aborigines of New +South Wales. Had there been any intimacy between the native and the Emu, +I might have been disposed to resort to this circumstance as an +explanation; for some maintain that the human countenance partakes of the +expression and even of the form of whatever, whether man or beast, it is +in the habit of associating with. + +SURREY HILLS. + +The Company have another station about sixty miles South-East from +Circular Head, at the Surrey hills, from whence the road to Launceston is +good and wide. But between it and Circular Head there are several rivers +to ford, and the country is not only very hilly, but densely wooded with +enormous trees, some of which I was informed were 30 feet in +circumference. This causes great difficulty in clearing the land. They +accomplish about fifty acres every year. The establishment consists of +one hundred persons, many of whom are convicts. They are kept in +excellent order; and their being strictly forbidden the use of spirits no +doubt contributes materially to prevent their giving trouble. I could not +help thinking that the Company conducted its operations on too extensive +a scale to render their undertaking profitable. The high pay of their +officers, and the difficulties encountered in clearing the land, are in +themselves considerable drawbacks; especially when we consider, that +after all the pains bestowed, the soil acquired for the purposes of +cultivation is often of very inferior quality. + +The soil on the peninsula, of which Circular Head forms the most +remarkable feature, is generally speaking of a poor light character, and +not well watered. The country lying immediately behind it is low and cut +up with branches from a large estuary. + +My esteemed friend, Count Strzelecki, traversed the country between +Circular Head and Point +Woolnorth (North-West extreme of Tasmania) and describes it as presenting +"eight rivers as difficult to cross as the Scamander, with deep gullies +and rocky ridges, and marshes more difficult to overcome than either +ridges or rivers." + +MINERAL WATERS. + +We learned there were some mineral waters about fifteen miles to the +westward of Circular Head. The ingredients they contain, and their +medicinal properties, were discovered by Count Strzelecki, who in +speaking of them, says, "I have endeavoured to ascertain both--the latter +on my own constitution, and the former by chemical analysis. They belong +to a class of carbonated waters." From his examination he concludes, +"that they are aperient and tonic, and sufficiently disgusting to the +palate to pass for highly medicinal." + +Whilst here, I was informed that a small party of natives were still at +large, though seldom seen, keeping in the remotest recesses of the woods. +They thus succeeded in avoiding for some years their enemy the white man. +Indeed it was only when pressed by hunger that these aboriginal +possessors of the soil ventured to emerge from their hiding-places, and +rob some of the Company's out-stations of flour. By these means, however, +it was that a knowledge was obtained of their existence. For, though they +managed so secretly, that it was some time before they were found out, a +shepherd at an out-station, began at last frequently to miss flour and +tobacco* in a very mysterious manner. He determined accordingly to watch, +but was for a long time unsuccessful. At length he saw a native woman +steal into the hut, when he drew the door to by a line which communicated +with his place of concealment. Of the treatment this poor woman received +from the hands of her captor I shall treat hereafter. After being kept a +prisoner some time, she was sent to Flinders Island; but it was long +before the discovery was made that she had any companions. I was informed +that the shepherd who took her, afterwards lost his life by the spear of +a native, probably impelled by revenge. + +(*Footnote. The fondness exhibited by the aborigines who inhabit the +southern parts of Australia for smoking is extraordinary.) + +SAIL FOR THE RIVER TAMAR. + +We completed our operations on the evening of the day on which we +arrived, namely, December 18th, and left for the Tamar river, in order to +measure a meridian distance. Passing six miles from Rocky Cape, we had 28 +fathoms; and steering east, the depth gradually increased to 42 fathoms, +with a soft muddy bottom, being then twenty miles North-West by West from +Port Dalrymple, the mouth of the Tamar. + +The 19th was one of the few fine days it was our good fortune to meet +with, and we enjoyed a splendid view of the Alpine features of Tasmania. +Towering peaks connected sometimes by high tablelands, glittered in the +sun as if capped with snow.* + +(*Footnote. Near Hobart, in February 1836, I saw snow on the side of a +mountain.) + +PORT DALRYMPLE. + +Early in the afternoon, the lighthouse on Low Head appeared like a white +speck resting on the blue horizon; and by evening we found ourselves at +anchor just within the reefs fronting the west entrance point of Port +Dalrymple. The first appearance of the Tamar river is not very inviting +to the seaman. A rapid stream, thrown out of its course, hemmed in by +numerous reefs, and passing over a bottom so uneven as to cause a change +in the soundings from 12 to 26, and then 18 fathoms, with a ripple or +line of broken water across the mouth renders it impossible in strong +North-West winds for a stranger to detect the channels, and raises so +much sea that the pilots cannot reach the vessels that arrive off the +mouth. + +As the Beagle passed through the west channel, the shear or first beacon +on the west reefs was on with a round-topped hill some distance up the +river. Although there is very apparent difficulty in navigating the +Tamar, still the first glance shows it to be a stream of importance. Its +valley, although not wide, may be traced for miles abruptly separating +the ranges of hills. We can easily imagine, therefore, the joy +experienced by Captain Flinders on first discovering it in 1798, and thus +bestowing a solid and lasting benefit on the future Tasmanian colonists. +This is not, however, the only portion of Australasia whose inhabitants +are indebted for the riches they are reaping from the soil, to the +enterprising spirit of Captain Flinders. + +George Town is a straggling village lying two miles within the entrance +of the Tamar; in its neighbourhood were found greenstone, basalt, and +trappean rocks. Launceston, the northern capital of Tasmania, lies thirty +miles up the river, or rather at the confluence of the two streams called +the North and South Esk, which form it. + +SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. + +We found that the Governor was attending not only to the present but the +future welfare of the colonists, by examining into the most eligible +spots for erecting lighthouses at the eastern entrance of Bass Strait, +fronting the North-East extreme of Tasmania, the numerous dangers +besetting which have been fatal to several vessels. These buildings will +be lasting records of the benefits the colony derived from Sir John +Franklin's government. + +As we subsequently visited the Tamar, it is needless to give here the +little information we gathered during our brief stay. Our observations +were made on the south point of Lagoon Bay, where we found a whaleboat +belonging to a party of sealers just arrived with birds' feathers and +skins for the Launceston market. They had left their wives and families, +including their dogs, on the islands they inhabit. + +RETURN TO PORT PHILLIP. + +On the morning of the 22nd, we were again out of the Tamar, and making +the best of our way to Port Phillip for a meridian distance. There was +little tide noticed in the middle of the Strait; the greatest depth we +found was 47 fathoms, 68 miles North-West from the Tamar, where the +nature of the bottom was a grey muddy sand or marl. + +At noon on the 23rd, we entered Port Phillip, and ran up through the West +Channel in three and three and a half fathoms. + +Point Lonsdale, the west entrance point, being kept open of Shortland +bluff--a cliffy projection about two miles within it--leads into the +entrance; and a clump of trees on the northern slope of Indented Head, +was just over a solitary patch of low red cliffs, as we cleared the +northern mouth of the channel. From thence to Hobson's Bay, where we +anchored at 3 P.M., the course is North by West 22 miles across a +splendid sheet of water, of which the depth is 11 and 13 fathoms. + +William Town, the seaport town of Australia Felix, named after his +Majesty King William IV., stands on a very low piece of land forming the +southern shore of Hobson's Bay, called Point Gellibrand, after a +gentleman from Hobart, one of the first who brought stock to Port +Phillip. He was lost in the bush in a very mysterious manner in 1834. No +trace of him or his horse was found till 1842, when some of the natives +showed where his mouldering bones lay. The point that bears his name +scarcely projects sufficiently to afford large ships shelter from south +winds in Hobson's Bay. In the North-West corner of the latter is the +mouth of the Yarra-yarra river; but although only one mile and a half +from the general anchorage, it is very difficult to be made out. The +following anecdote will illustrate the difficulty of detecting the mouths +of rivers in Australia. Soon after we anchored in Hobson's Bay, a small +schooner passed, going to Melbourne. Several of the officers were at the +time standing on the poop, and each selected a spot at which the schooner +was to enter the river; and although, as I have before stated, we were +only one mile and a half from it, none of us was right. A single tall +bushy-topped tree, about a mile inland, rose over the schooner as she +left the waters of Hobson's Bay. + +William Town consisted, at that time, of only a few houses. One +disadvantage under which this place labours is badness of water, while +the country around it is a dead level, with clumps of very open woodland. +The formation is whinstone, but the soil's fertile quality shows an +absence of sandstone. + +RIVER YARRA-YARRA. + +Proceeding up the Yarra-yarra, we found that about two miles from the +mouth, the river divides, one branch continuing in a northerly direction, +and the other, a narrow sluggish stream, turning suddenly off to the +eastward. The banks are so densely wooded, that it is seldom if ever that +its surface is ruffled by a breeze. + +MELBOURNE. + +The township of Melbourne on its north bank, five miles from the river's +mouth, we found a very bustling place. Nearly two thousand persons had +already congregated there, and more were arriving every day, so that +great speculation was going on in land. We were delighted with the +park-like appearance of the country, and the rich quality of the soil. +This was the most fertile district we had seen in all Australia; and I +believe everyone allows that such is the case. Its reputation indeed was +at one time so great, that it became the point of attraction for all +settlers from the mother country, where at one time the rage for Port +Phillip became such, that there existed scarcely a village in which some +of the inhabitants, collecting their little all, did not set out for this +land of promise, with the hope of rapidly making a fortune and returning +to end their days in comfort at home. Everyone I think must leave with +such hopes; for who can deliberately gather up his goods and go into a +far country with the settled intention of never returning? + +A rocky ledge extends across the river fronting the town, upon which the +plan had been formed of erecting a dam for the purpose of keeping the +water fresh; whereas now the river is salt above the town, and the well +water is not particularly good. The Yarra-yarra is not navigable even for +boats many miles beyond Melbourne, on account of the numerous falls. Some +of the reaches above the town are very picturesque--still glassy sheets +of water stretch between steep banks clothed with rich vegetation down to +the very edge of the stream--the branches of the trees droop over the +smooth surface, and are vividly reflected; and substance is so perfectly +blended with shadow, that it is impossible to detect where they unite. + +At the western extremity of Melbourne is a low round hill, fifty-seven +feet above the level of the sea by our observations, and about thirty +above the town. There are now none of the aborigines in the neighbourhood +of Melbourne; but I learned that some of their old men remember the time +when the site of the town was under water, in consequence of one of those +sudden inundations that happen in Australia, and are so much in keeping +with the other strange things that occur there. + +SINGULAR CUSTOM. + +Having alluded to the natives, I may here mention a singular custom that +came under notice some time after, at the Protectorate in the valley of +the Loddon, in the vicinity of Melbourne. Several women were observed +having their faces completely concealed by their opossum-skin mantles. +Not satisfied with this moreover, in passing a party of men, they moved +in a sidelong manner, so as to render it impossible, even if the covering +came to be displaced, that their faces should be seen. In the evening at +the Corobbery, these persons, three in number, were seated in the circle +of women, so as to have their backs turned to the dancers or actors, +their faces still being wholly concealed. They remained seated, +motionless, taking no part in the singing or the gestures of +encouragement indulged in by the other women. It was subsequently +explained by a protector, that these were women who had daughters +betrothed to the men of their tribe, and that during the period of +betrothment the mothers are always thus rigidly veiled. + +Near Mount Macedon, thirty miles North-West from Melbourne, there has +been discovered, I was informed, a quarry of marble of a very fine +quality; and in the same neighbourhood is an extinct crater. The +formation at and in the immediate vicinity of Melbourne, is of tertiary +deposits associated with arenaceous older rocks. + +We returned to the ships by a short route leading direct from Melbourne +to the northern shore of Hobson's Bay. During the walk I was much struck +with the great risk that people run in selecting land from a map of this +country, half of our road lying over a rich loam, and the other half over +soft sand. The trees swarmed with large locusts (the cicada) quite +deafening us with their shrill buzzing noise. + +MANNA. + +We found the branches of these trees and the ground underneath strewed +over with a white substance resembling small flakes of snow, called by +the colonists manna. I am aware that an erroneous idea exists that this +matter is deposited by the locusts; but in fact it is an exudation from +the Eucalyptus; and although I saw it beneath another kind of tree, it +must have been carried there by the wind. A different sort, of a pale +yellow colour, is found on a smaller species of Eucalyptus growing on +highlands, and is much sought after for food by the natives, who +sometimes scrape from the tree as much as a pound in a quarter of an +hour. It has the taste of a delicious sweetmeat, with an almond flavour, +and is so luscious that much cannot be eaten of it. This is well worthy +of attention from our confectioners at home, and it may hereafter form an +article of commerce, although from what has fallen under my own +observation, and from what I have learnt from Mr. Eyre and others, I +should say it is not of frequent occurrence. The first kind, being found +strewed underneath the tree probably exudes from the leaf, whilst the +second oozes from the stem. The wood of the latter is much used for fuel +by the natives, especially in night-fishing, and burns brightly, without +smoke, diffusing also a delicious aromatic smell. + +HOBSON'S BAY. + +On Christmas day, which we spent in Hobson's Bay, we experienced one of +those hot winds which occasionally occur coming off the land. During its +prevalence, everything assumes a strange appearance--objects are seen +with difficulty, and acquire a tremulous motion like that which is +imparted to everything seen through the air escaping from an over-heated +stove. The thermometer on a wall under the glare of the sun, stood at 135 +degrees. + +We surveyed Hobson's Bay during our stay, and connected it by +triangulation with Melbourne. Our observations were made at the inner end +of a small jetty. The mouth of the Yarra-yarra is closed up by a bar, +which from its soft muddy nature may be easily removed. The deepest water +we found on it at high tide was nine feet. + +CORIO HARBOUR. + +Having completed our operations, we next morning, January 1st, 1839, +departed for Corio Harbour, situated at the head of a deep inlet midway +on the western shore of Port Phillip. We found our progress impeded as we +beat up it by a long spit, extending two thirds of the way across from a +low projecting point lying midway on the north shore. On the opposite +side, the land is of moderate elevation, and has in many places a most +inviting rich park-like appearance, swelling on all sides into grassy +downs, with patches of open woodland interspersed. In the afternoon we +anchored in three fathoms, about a quarter of a mile from the south point +of Corio Harbour. This is a level expanse of land named Point Henry, from +which a long spit extends, leaving only a shoal channel between it and +the northern shore. Thus, though the harbour has apparently a broad open +mouth, it is impossible for a large vessel to enter it. + +January 2. + +After breakfast a party of us went to visit Captain Fyans, the police +magistrate of the district, for the purpose of arranging a trip to +Station Peak. We landed on the South-West corner of Corio Harbour, where +we found four fathoms close to the beach, immediately over which is the +north end of the township of Geelong. A kind of store and two other +wooden buildings pointed out its locality. Captain Fyans was living in a +log-hut on the banks of the Marabul River. Our road thither lay west +about three miles across a woody down. + +RIVER BARWON. + +The Marabul runs to the southward, and joins the Barwon flowing from the +west; after which the united streams take a south-easterly direction. The +course of the latter I was anxious to trace, having seen its mouth in +passing along the coast west from Port Phillip. Very opportunely I met +with Mr. Smith, belonging to the colonial surveying department, who being +employed in the neighbourhood, took me to a commanding station on some +low hills about three miles to the south, called by the natives Barabul. +We crossed the Barwon running to the south-east at the foot of them, near +where it fell some height over a rocky shelf forming a pretty waterfall. +Turning to the left from this roar of water, you find the stream +meandering silently between rich grassy flats. On one of these Mr. +Smith's tents were pitched, overlooked by a craggy height on the opposite +side of the river; and the blue stream of smoke that arose from the fire +of his party, helped to impart life and beauty to the scene. From the +Barabul hills I almost traced the Barwon to its confluence with the sea. +Five miles to the south-east from where we stood it communicated with a +large lagoon; after leaving which, I was informed there was only a depth +of three feet, and a width of one eighth of a mile. It is not, however, +this alone that renders the Barwon useless for water-carriage to the town +of Geelong; for the exposed situation of its mouth almost always prevents +boats from entering. + +The singular sloping treeless sides of the Barabul hills, and the +declivities of the valley of the Marabul river, bear a striking +resemblance to many parts of Eastern Patagonia. They appear as if they +had just emerged from the sea, which had as it were scooped out their +hollows and smoothed their sides. A remarkable high round hill, perfectly +bare of trees, and called by the natives Moriac, bore West 1/2 South six +miles from where we stood. On our return we met some of the natives; they +were the first I had seen of the aborigines of this part of the +continent, and were certainly a finer race than the people on the western +coasts. They complained of the white men bringing animals into their +country that scare away the kangaroo, and destroy the roots which at +certain seasons of the year form part of their sustenance. This, Mr. +Smith told me, was a very general complaint. + +I spent a very pleasant evening at Captain Fyans' comfortable quarters, +in the course of which arrangements were made for next day's journey to +Station Peak, Mr. Smith kindly offering to lend me a horse and to +accompany me. + +STATION PEAK. + +January 3. + +We started for Station Peak very early. The morning air had a +delightfully bracing effect; and the grass glittered with a copious fall +of dew. The first five miles of road lay over a high down, with pretty +patches of woodland interspersed; and the remaining ten over a low plain +that stretches to the foot of the peak. Six miles from the latter we +crossed a hollow where I noticed some calcareous matter, in which were +included shells of recent species, evidently showing that an upheaval had +taken place in this part of the continent. We saw on the plain several +large bustards resembling a light brown domestic turkey. + +Leaving our horses at the foot of the peak, we ascended it by a sloping +ridge on the south-east face. Huge blocks of granite--some poised on a +point as if the slightest touch would send them rolling and thundering to +the plains below--covered the sides and summits of this and the smaller +peak, to the north of which are several others scattered over about a +mile of ground. + +On reaching the summit, I hastened to a pile of stones which Captain +Flinders had erected to commemorate his visit; but, alas, the bottle and +paper left by him were gone, and I have not since been able to learn who +it was that took away this interesting and valuable record. + +VIEW FROM STATION PEAK. + +The view commanded all points of the splendid sheet of water called Port +Phillip, which stretched away its shining expanse seemingly almost from +our very feet; whilst north-east two long wavy lines of trees showed the +course of the Little and Weariby rivers meandering through +the plain. + +The natives call this cluster of peaks Ude (great) Youang, and the other +West-North-West seven miles, Anuke (little) Youang. Another solitary high +round hill, fifteen miles further nearly, in the same direction, is +called Bununyong. + +We have thus five native names of places in the immediate neighbourhood +of Port Phillip, having the termination ng, and we may perhaps add +another, the Barwon being probably Barwong. At King George's Sound in +Western Australia, the names end in up, and again to the eastward, near +Gipps' Land, the final letter is n. These observations may probably +assist in directing the attention of philologists to the subject of the +distribution of the Australian dialects or languages. + +Ude Youang, or as Captain Flinders named it, Station Peak, is a granite +mass elevated 1370 feet above the sea. At Geelong there is some confusion +in the formation. The rocks, however, that prevail are trappean. + +FOSSIL SHELLS. + +In digging a well there, a fossil cowrie (Cypraea eximia) of an extinct +species was once found at the depth of sixty feet. Another specimen of +the same shell was dug up at Franklin village near Launceston, from a +hundred and forty feet below the surface of the soil. Count Strzelecki +gives a figure of it in his interesting work. + +Mr. Ronald Gunn, in his observations on the flora of Geelong, observes +that out of a hundred species of plants collected indiscriminately, +sixty-seven were also to be found in Tasmania, leaving only thirty-three +to indicate the peculiarities of the Geelong vegetation. + +Some of the officers of the Beagle exhibited at this place symptoms of +being infected with the land-speculating mania we had witnessed at +Melbourne, by bidding for some of the allotments of the township of +Geelong, which were just then selling. One that was bought for 80 pounds +might have been sold a year afterwards for 700 pounds. I mention this +fact that the reader may see what a ruinous system was then in vogue. + +ARTHUR'S SEAT. + +On the morning of January 5, we left Geelong, touched at Hobson's Bay for +a chronometric departure, and proceeded to sea by the south channel. +Arthur's Seat is a good guide for its entrance from Hobson's Bay, the +channel passing close under the foot of it. The eastern extremity of the +northern banks, we found very difficult to make out, from the water being +but slightly discoloured on it. It is, moreover, on account of its +steepness, dangerous to approach. From this eastern corner of the bank, +Arthur's Seat bears South 50 1/2 degrees West and a solitary patch of +cliff, westward of the latter, South 68 degrees East. + +In consequence of bad weather it was three days before we passed through +the channel, which, we were pleased to find navigable for line of battle +ships. A West 3/4 North course led through, and the least water was five +fathoms on a bar at the eastern entrance, where the width is only +three-tenths of a mile, whilst in the western it is one mile, with a +depth of seventeen fathoms. When in the latter we saw Flinders Point +between Lonsdale and Nepean Points, and as we came down the channel, the +last two points were just open of each other. + +PORT WESTERN. + +Leaving Port Phillip, we surveyed the coast to the eastward, and anchored +in the entrance of Port Western, after dark on the 10th. Next morning we +examined the south-west part of Grant island, and moved the ship to a +more secure anchorage off its North-East point. Port Western is formed +between Grant and French islands in rather a remarkable manner: two great +bays lie one within the other, the inner being nearly filled up by French +island, whilst the outer is sheltered by Grant Island, stretching across +it almost from point to point, and leaving a wide ship-channel on its +western side, whilst on the eastern the passage is narrow and fit only +for boats and small vessels. + +Gales between North-West and South-West detained us here until the 19th. +We found water by digging on the North-East extreme of Grant Island, +which at high tide is a low sandy islet. On first landing there, we found +in a clump of bushes a kangaroo, very dark-coloured, indeed almost black. +His retreat being cut off he took to the water, and before a boat could +reach him, sank. This not only disappointed but surprised us; for in +Tasmania a kangaroo has been known to swim nearly two miles. Black swans +were very numerous, and it being the moulting season, were easily run +down by the boats. Their outstretched necks and the quick flap of their +wings as they moved along, reminded us forcibly of a steamboat. At this +season of the year when the swans cannot fly, a great act of cruelty is +practised on them by those who reside on the Islands in Bass Strait, and +of whom I have before spoken as sealers: they take them in large numbers +and place them in confinement, without anything to eat, in fact almost +starve them to death, in order that the down may not be injured by the +fat which generally covers their bodies. + +Scarcely any traces are now to be found of the old settlement on a cliffy +point of the eastern shore of the harbour. The rapid growth of indigenous +vegetation has completely concealed all signs of human industry, and the +few settlers in the neighbourhood have helped themselves to the bricks to +build their own homes. + +We noticed, however, one or two remaining indications of the fact that a +settlement had formerly existed on that spot, among others an old +flagstaff still erect, on a bluff near the North-East end of Grant +Island. A very large domestic cat, also, was seen on the South-East +point, doubtless another relic of the first settlers. + +The rocks chiefly to be met with at Port Western are analogous to those +of the Carboniferous series. Over its eastern shore rises a range of +woody hills to the height of between five and seven hundred feet, +stretching away in a North-East direction. This harbour presents one very +curious feature, namely, a sort of canal or gut in the mud flats that +front the eastern side of Grant Island. Its depth varies from six to +seven fathoms, whilst the width is half a mile. The most remarkable +object, however, is the helmet-shaped headland, rising abruptly from the +sea to the height of 480 feet, and forming the South-East extreme of +Grant Island. It is the more conspicuous from the circumstance that all +the rest of the island is covered with low hills, clothed in an almost +impervious scrub. The land at the head of the inner of the two bays I +have alluded to in describing Port Western, partakes of the same +character, and is intersected by a number of creeks. This greatly +increases the difficulty of the overland communication between Port +Phillip and the available land on Port Western, travellers being +compelled to take a very circuitous road in order to avoid this almost +impassable tract, and reach the banks of Bass river, where the best soil +is found, and which has been named after the enterprising man whose +memory must for ever remain intimately connected with this part of the +world. + +SNAKE ADVENTURE. + +A few rare insects were collected by Mr. Emery, whose adventures with +snakes bear a great resemblance to some of Waterton's. He was walking out +once on Grant Island, when his attention was attracted by the pitiful +cries of a bird in a tree close at hand. He soon discovered that a snake* +was in the act of robbing the nest, whilst the mother fluttering round, +was endeavouring to scare away the spoiler. Mr. Emery immediately climbed +up, and with a courage which few other men would have exhibited, seized +the reptile by the back of the neck and killed it. We found that it had +already swallowed one of the young ones, which had so extended the skin, +and made so large a lump, that we were quite puzzled to know how it could +have been got down. + +(*Footnote. Lieutenant Emery has this snake still in his possession, +stuffed in a masterly style, and set up with the bird in its mouth.) + +CAPABILITIES OF PORT WESTERN. + +We were astonished to find the tide here nearly an hour later than at +Port Phillip, and higher by six feet. The cause of this peculiarity is no +doubt to be attributed to the fact of the tides at Port Western being +influenced by the easterly flood-stream. The bad weather we experienced +during our stay enabled us to judge of the capabilities of the Port, +which we were glad to find the finest we had yet seen in Bass Strait, not +so much, however, from its size, for above Grant Island the extent of +deep water is limited, as from the great facility of access. + +On the 19th we left Port Western, passing out by keeping an isolated +piece of tableland, called Tortoise Head, on the South-East extremity of +French Island, open of the North-East point of Grant Island. The only +danger is a sandbank, lying in the centre of the channel, four miles +within the entrance. It may always be avoided by keeping a cable's length +from the eastern shore. + +The western half of the south side of Grant Island, is a line of cliffs, +from one to three hundred feet in height. A remarkable pyramidal rock +marks the point where this terminates, after which a long range of low +hills, covered with scrub, stretches to Cape Wollami, the helmet-shaped +headland before-mentioned. A light North-East wind rendered our progress +slow towards Cape Patterson, we reaching it by daylight of the 20th. It +is a low point, covered with scattered sand hillocks; a few rocky patches +here and there front its sand beach. + +Finding from the succession of dense fogs that we could not prosecute an +easterly examination of the coast, we returned towards Port Phillip, and +experienced some unusual swells off Port Western. + +EXTRAORDINARY SOUNDINGS. + +The soundings were in general tolerably regular; but in the same +neighbourhood we had some extraordinary ones--SEVENTY FATHOMS, on a +gravelly bottom. This was nearly one third of the way across from Grant +Island to Cape Shanck, seven miles from the latter. The same strange +depth was likewise found three miles south from Cape Wollami, with the +same kind of gravel bottom, or a very fine kind of shingle. It was a +single cast of the lead. On either side in this last case were 39 and 33 +fathoms fine sand and shells. Had it not been for the change in the +quality of the bottom, I should have doubted so great a depth, which is +the more remarkable from its being the greatest within the Strait. + +The next day towards evening we again anchored in Hobson's Bay, where we +stayed till the 23rd. This time in getting out of Port Phillip through +the southern channel, we met with an accident. I have before mentioned +the difficulty of seeing the eastern part of the north bank, which, on +this occasion, combined with the dazzling effect of the sun's rays ahead, +was the cause of our grounding for a short time near the inner entrance. +It was, therefore, noon next day before we were again outside, when we +steered across for the north end of King Island. + +January 26. + +In passing Franklin Road the next morning, we saw a cutter at anchor, +doubtless the colonial vessel which is occasionally allowed to visit +Captain Smith, and afford him supplies. We passed down four miles from +the western side of King Island, carrying an outer line of soundings, +varying from 40 to 50 fathoms; and in the evening anchored in Fitzmaurice +Bay. + +BELL ROCK. + +Next morning we proceeded in search of Bell Rock,* lying in the middle of +the south entrance of Bass Strait, eight miles South from the northern +and largest of Reid's Rocks; but there being only a light air stirring +from the westward, we were almost wholly at the mercy of the tide, which +carried us midway between its assigned position and the last-mentioned +dangers. We passed near several small eddies and slight whirlpools, in +which no bottom was found in the boats with 25 fathoms. The North-West +extremity of Reid's Rock might with propriety be described as a small +islet, it being a dark mass some half a mile long, and rising 25 feet out +of the water. The French charts exhibit some sunken rocks to the north of +this; but, if they really exist, of which there is great doubt, we saw +nothing of them. I may here mention, that great circumspection should be +used by vessels in the neighbourhood of Reid's Rocks, as the soundings do +not indicate their approach, and as the tide runs among them with great +rapidity. + +(*Footnote. A rock was seen in H.M.S. Conway five miles West-South-West +from Bell Rock.) + +BLACK PYRAMID. + +Between them and the Black Pyramid we had 35 and 32 fathoms. + +We passed the night standing to and fro close to the Pyramid, which I +have before described as a dark rocky lump 240 feet high. Its western +side is a sombre storm-beaten cliff, whilst to the east it slopes away +almost to the water's edge. A few patches of coarse grass may be seen on +some sheltered spots. Sealers, I am informed, have landed upon it on +certain rare occasions of fine weather, and have been repaid for their +daring by capturing a few fur-seals from the rookery that there exists. +The Black Pyramid from some points of view, greatly resembles Curtis +Island, near the eastern entrance of the Strait. A mile and a half from +its eastern side, there was only 24 fathoms, which was the least water we +were in during the night. + +January 27. + +We found ourselves at daylight in 35 fathoms, two miles South-West from +the Pyramid, when we stood away East-South-East, to sound and have a +seaward view of the entrance between Hunter Island and Point Woolnorth. +This examination confirmed our former opinion that no ship-channel +existed there. But even if there had been one, the passage is so strewed +with rocks and disturbed by such heavy tide ripples, that it wears a most +dangerous appearance from the offing. + +Rounding the south side of the south Black Rock, we went between it and +Steep Island in 19 fathoms. From thence we steered between the north +Black Rock and the west point of Hunter Island in 24 fathoms, having 15 +fathoms midway between. + +ALBATROSS ISLAND. + +Continuing our northern course, we passed a mile from the west side of +Albatross Island, in 30 and 33 fathoms. It is a dark cliffy isle, the +summit of which although 125 feet high, appears to be sometimes washed by +the sea. There are one or two finger-shaped points of rock at the south +end; and a singular split in the entire island may be seen on the bearing +of North 75 degrees East. The wind had now increased to a gale from the +westward, and we were obliged to seek shelter under Hunter Island. + +January 28. + +In the morning the breeze was moderate from North-East, to which quarter +it had changed suddenly during the night, veering round from west by the +north. By noon it had shifted to East-North-East and had increased to a +gale. At 8 P.M. it blew a strong gale with gusts from that quarter. The +barometer had now just begun to fall, and was at 29.9. During the day it +had been steady at 30.02. This gale lasted, blowing with the same +violence (latterly from East) until 1 P.M. the next day, when after a +calm of about a quarter of an hour the wind changed suddenly to North +with rain, thunder, and vivid lightning, and by 4 P.M. had veered to west +and increased once more to a strong gale with heavy squalls. The +barometer at the same time began to rise; it had been stationary at 29.6 +since the morning. + +It was the evening of the 31st before this gale blew over, after veering +to the South-West. The barometer at the time was at 29.9, having risen to +that height in the morning. The rotatory character of this storm, which +resembled those we had experienced on our former visit, induces me to +enter thus into details respecting it. These observations, too, may +evince more plainly, the necessity of an anchorage at this time of the +year being sheltered from both east and west winds. + +FIRE ON THREE HUMMOCK ISLAND. + +The fire that had been accidentally kindled on Three Hummock Island, when +we were last there, was still burning. This conflagration had almost been +fatal to Mr. Bynoe, who was out in the scrubs when it burst forth, having +with great difficulty forced his way among them in search of specimens +for his collection of birds. His attention was suddenly roused by the +roaring of the flames as they swept down the sides of the hills, wrapping +them in a sheet of fire. The predicament in which he was placed was a +most critical one, as he hardly knew which way to turn to avoid the +pressing danger. Even when, fortunately, he had taken the right +direction, it was with the greatest exertion that he burst through the +matted thicket and reached the water's edge before the fire. + +Our fishermen were very successful with the hook and line, taking near +the rocks great numbers of fish, some of which were a species of rock +cod. Alongside the ship we only caught sharks, one of which contained +thirty-six young ones. + +Although the barometer remained stationery at 29.9 the weather continued +so boisterous, and westerly squalls followed each other in such rapid +succession, that it was the 3rd of February, before we could commence +work in earnest. On that day the ship was moved to near the south end of +Hunter Island, where we found a nice quiet anchorage with scarcely any +tide off a long sandy beach. + +LEAVE FOR CIRCULAR HEAD. + +By the 6th we completed what remained to be done of the survey of this +part, and proceeded to collect the necessary soundings between Three +Hummock Island, and Circular Head, anchoring under the latter the same +evening. Here we met Mr. Curr, the Company's Superintendent, who was +absent during our first visit. From him we experienced so great +hospitality, that our stay appeared shorter than it really was. On the +morning of the 9th we again left. It was our intention to have stood over +midway across the Strait in search of some islands reported by the French +to be thereabouts, though all the local information we could gain on the +subject tended to induce a disbelief of their existence. + +HEAVY GALE. + +But the sky assuming a threatening aspect, and the wind increasing from +the westward, we sought shelter under the South-East end of Robbin +Island. And it was well we did so; for during the following two days, it +blew the heaviest gale we had yet met with in the Strait. A succession of +violent gusts from the west, with loud thunder, vivid lightning, and much +rain, constantly reminded us of the wisdom of our cautious proceeding. At +Port Phillip this same storm was felt very severely. Such was its +strength and violence, that many houses were unroofed, and other damage +done to a large amount. It passed over both Melbourne and Geelong, +darkening the air with the clouds of dust it bore along with it, and +filling the minds of the inhabitants with the greatest terror and +apprehension. They called it a tornado; and it appeared to have quite the +rotatory character of a hurricane. + +February 11. + +We left this anchorage, and passed three miles from the North-East side +of Three Hummock Island where we found only six fathoms, apparently on a +bank thrown up by the tide sweeping round its sides. From thence we +steered across the Strait to Sea Elephant Rock on the eastern shore of +King Island. We saw nothing of the islands laid down by the French, +thirteen leagues east of it, and it was my firm belief that they had no +existence. Subsequent observation has confirmed this belief. We however +found the shoal water supposed to exist thereabouts. + +The northern termination of the highland over the south-eastern part of +the island which marks Sea Elephant Bay was very apparent as we +approached. In the evening we anchored in seven fathoms on the north side +of Sea Elephant Rock, which we visited the following morning. It is +nearly a mile in circumference, and 120 feet high, clothed with a coarse +wiry grass. A small vessel if properly moored might find shelter under it +from easterly gales. We were surprised to find the time of high-water +here nearly two hours earlier than at Three Hummock Island; the +flood-stream came from the southward. + +WILD DOGS. + +Of the number of wild dogs that we had heard of as being on this island, +we saw only two. From the bones we found of others it is more than +probable that they live upon each other at the seasons of the year when +the mutton birds having departed; they would otherwise have to depend +solely for subsistence on the few shellfish adhering to the rocks. This +reminded me of what I once witnessed on an island off the eastern coast +of Patagonia. Several herds of deer had once existed upon it; but some +persons having turned a number of dogs loose, the original inhabitants +were soon destroyed, and the newcomers afterwards devoured each other, so +that when I saw them, but a small remnant remained. The dogs on Sea +Elephant Rock, which were left by sealers, had grown so wild that they +would not allow us to approach them. I saw here some small penguins, a +bird we rarely met with in the Strait. + +This part of King Island is clothed with thick scrubs, among which we saw +numerous tracks of kangaroos, a certain sign that it is not much +frequented by civilized or uncivilized man. Leaving this anchorage we +examined the eastern shore of the island which we found, as I have before +described, to be low and sandy. Passing along two miles from it, we had a +depth of from 8 to 12 and 15 fathoms. As we approached the northern end, +the character of the coast changed, it being formed by rocky points with +small sand bays intervening. The reef laid down by the French, two miles +from the North-East extremity of the island, we found to be only half a +mile South-South-West from it, one of the many errors we discovered in +the French chart of the strait. It is a small ugly ledge quite beneath +the water, and from the absence of rocky points on the low sandy shore it +fronts, is quite unlooked for. + +NAVARIN AND HARBINGER ROCKS. + +The next day, February 13th, we examined the dangers fronting the north +side of the island, consisting of Navarin and Harbinger Rocks, neither of +which we found so formidable or so far from the shore as had been +reported. The former lies only a mile and a half off the north end, and +although we did not pass between it and the shore, there is little doubt +that a passage exists. We passed between the Harbinger rocks in 27 +fathoms; this great depth in their immediate vicinity, gives no warning +of their proximity in the night or during thick weather. + +COMPLETE THE SURVEY OF PORT PHILLIP. + +As it was now necessary for us to think of preparing for our return to +the North coast, the proper season for passing through Torres Strait also +approaching, and the increasing importance of Port Phillip, rendering it +desirable to complete our survey of its entrance before our departure; we +consequently proceeded thither. We found even soundings of 53 fathoms +extend twenty miles North by East from Harbinger Reef, but from thence +northwards, the depths gradually decreased. Calms and light winds +rendered the passage across very tedious. We spent one night at anchor in +31 fathoms near the entrance, about six miles south from Point Flinders, +where the tide scarcely ran a knot an hour; the flood-stream set +North-East. With these operations closed our work in Bass Strait, for the +present. We had completed the western entrance from Port Western on the +north shore and Circular Head on the south. The weather had prevented our +doing more, and obtaining as many soundings as we could have wished. It +had been unusually boisterous and unsettled, much more so than the winter +generally is. From all I could learn such a season had not been +experienced in the memory of the oldest inhabitants. + +March 1. + +Bidding adieu to our hospitable friends, we left Port Phillip, and having +spent a night at Port Western, stood out from it next morning, and passed +over in 12 and 15 fathoms, the patch of discoloured water discovered by +Flinders, two miles south of the remarkable round islet, that lies off +the western extreme of Grant Island. Pursuing our course to the eastward, +we were detained by contrary winds for some time among the islands at the +eastern entrance of the Strait. All these we found to be considerably out +in position, showing the necessity of an accurate survey. We were +exceedingly delighted when on the 5th we were enabled fairly to turn our +back on Bass Strait, that region of storms, which stretched behind us as +we receded like a black mass resting on the horizon. A strong +south-wester soon carried us far away from it in the direction we had +been so long endeavouring to pursue. + +At noon on the 8th, we were close in with the land in the neighbourhood +of Jervis Bay. A long line of cliffs fronts the shore; but the highlands +recede as in the neighbourhood of Sydney, leaving a low tract of country +between them and the sea. + +PIGEON HOUSE. + +To the South-West of this bay, we had an excellent view of that singular +landmark, which Captain Cook, with his usual felicity in the choice of +names, called the Pigeon House. It was just open of the south end of some +tablelands, and resembled a cupola superimposed upon a large dome. + +Next day in the forenoon, we again arrived at Sydney; where we remained +from March 10th to May 21st, employing the time in completing our charts, +sending home tracings of them, and preparing for our cruise on the +Northern coast. I was glad to find the return meridian distance between +Port Phillip and Sydney agree with the going one, placing the jetty at +William's Town 6 degrees 19 minutes 14 seconds west of Fort Macquarie. + +DROUGHT AT SYDNEY. + +Everything was still suffering from one of those fearful droughts that +occasionally visit this colony, but are as yet unknown in Western +Australia, where the seasons are certain, although available land is +scarce. An idea may be formed of the nature of this visitation, when I +say, that for some time previous to our former departure from Sydney, +during the whole of our absence, and for several months subsequent to our +return, not a drop of rain fell. The consequence of this was, that the +whole country was dried up, and the dust lay on the roads, especially +towards Parramatta, at least a foot thick. Whoever attempted to travel, +therefore, seemed, if the wind blew, as though he had been passing +through a mill. It will readily be imagined that so long a succession of +dry seasons, did prodigious injury to the stock, and utterly ruined the +wheat crops. To add to the distress then occasioned, the people of +Tasmania seizing on the opportunity, raised the price of grain, expecting +to make a large profit. But their avidity in this instance over-reached +itself. Instead of sending to them for corn, the people of Sydney +despatched vessels to South America, and as the early cargoes that +arrived sold to advantage, a great deal of money was embarked in the +speculation. Soon, however, the natural consequence ensued. The market +became glutted, cargo after cargo came in, the purchasers held back, +prices fell, and in many instances the importers were glad to dispose of +their wheat at a rate far inferior to what it had been shipped at. I have +no doubt that the financial derangement caused by so large an amount of +bullion going out of the country (for all these cargoes were bought with +ready money) had much to do with the subsequent depression. + +I may here take an opportunity of remarking that, as a general rule, it +is the labouring classes that thrive best at Sydney. They can in +tolerably prosperous times, earn sufficient in three or four days, to +support themselves throughout the week. During the remainder of the time, +the sober and industrious man employs himself in building a house; but I +am sorry to say that the generality repair to the vast number of public +houses that swarm on every side, and get drunk. This is evident from the +annual revenue derived from rum, which in 1839 was 190,000 pounds, +amounting to more than seven gallons for every individual in the colony. + +MR. USBORNE LEAVES. + +It caused us extreme regret that before our departure from Sydney, we +were deprived of Mr. Usborne's valuable services. He was compelled to +return home in consequence of the dreadful wound he had received from a +musket ball, which, as has already been related, passed through his body. +In him the expedition sustained a great loss; his presence and society +were missed by all; and his departure was generally felt. It may easily +be conceived indeed that the separation from a friend and messmate under +such circumstances, must have cast for a time a shade of sadness over our +minds. Mr. Usborne took charge of the charts which we sent to England on +this occasion. + +MR. CUNNINGHAM. + +I cannot leave Sydney without alluding to our meeting with Mr. +Cunningham, the Botanist, whose death I have already mentioned, as having +taken place two months after our departure from Sydney. Though worn out +by disease, and evidently on the brink of the grave, the fire of +enthusiasm kindled in his frame, and his eyes glistened as he talked of +our projected enterprise; and it was with difficulty that he could be +dissuaded from accompanying us. His name, which will be remembered by his +friends on account of his many amiable qualities, will not be forgotten +by posterity; for it has become associated with the lands he explored, as +well as with the natural productions he described. The presence and +attention of his valued friend Captain P.P. King, contributed to soothe +his last moments. + + +CHAPTER 1.10. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +Leave Sydney. +Gale and Current. +Port Stephens. +Tahlee. +River Karuah. +Stroud. +Wild Cattle. +Incivility of a Settler. +River Allyn. +Mr. Boydell. +Cultivation of Tobacco. +A clearing Lease. +William River. +Crossing the Karuah at Night. +Sail from Port Stephens. +Breaksea Spit. +Discover a Bank. +Cape Capricorn. +Northumberland Isles. +Sandalwood. +Cape Upstart. +Discover a River. +Raised Beach. +Section of Barrier Reef. +Natives. +Plants and Animals. +Magnetical Island. +Halifax Bay. +Height of Cordillera. +Fitzroy Island. +Hope Island. +Verifying Captain King's Original Chart. +Cape Bedford. +New Geological Feature. +Lizard Island. +Captain Cook. +Barrier and Reefs within. +Howick Group. +Noble Island. +Cape Melville. +Reef near Cape Flinders. +Princess Charlotte's Bay. +Section of a detached Reef. +Tide at Claremont Isles. +Restoration Island. +Islands fronting Cape Grenville. +Boydan Island. +Correct Chart. +Tides. +Cairncross Island. +Escape River. +Correct position of Reefs. +York Isles. +Tides. +Torres Strait. +Endeavour Strait. +Booby Island. +Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs. +Cape Croker and reef off it. +Discover error in longitude of Cape. +Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington. +Arrive at the latter. + +May 22. + +We again bade adieu to our friends at Sydney, and sailed to explore the +north-western part of the continent, which from the number of openings +still unexamined, possessed the interest that invariably attaches to +whatever is unknown. We submitted, accordingly, with impatience to the +delay caused by light north-westerly winds, and a southerly current of +nearly a knot per hour, which prevented us from reaching the parallel of +Port Macquarie before the 29th; when about forty miles from it we +experienced a gale,* from North-East and East-North-East, that lasted +till the evening of the next day, when we found ourselves about 140 miles +South-East of Port Stephens. During this gale the southerly current +increased its velocity to two miles an hour, and its strength appeared to +be about seventy miles from the land. This delay rendered it necessary to +obtain a fresh chronometric departure, and as the winds prevented our +returning to Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port Stephens, where we +anchored, June 5th. We found the Admiralty chart of the coast in the +neighbourhood very defective, some islands being completely omitted, +whilst others were much misplaced. + +(*Footnote. This gale was from South-East at Sydney, and the most severe +they had experienced for many years; it blew many vessels adrift and did +other damage.) + +REMARKABLE HEADLANDS. PORT STEPHENS. + +I have before spoken of the change in the features of this portion of the +eastern coast. Here a number of conical hills, from four to six hundred +feet in height, suddenly presented themselves to our view, two of them, +very remarkable headlands, and preserving the aboriginal names of Yacaba +and Tomare, constitute the entrance points of Port Stephens. The sea-face +of Tomare is a high line of cliffs, from which projects a sand-spit, +leaving only a narrow entrance. When in this I noticed that a round hill +at the south end of a distant range, was over the opening between the +first island and the northern shore of the harbour. Within the entrance +are extensive sandbanks, leaving between them and the south shore a +narrow, and in some parts deep, channel, subject to a rapid stream of +tide. Port Stephens may be considered a large estuary, about fifteen +miles in length, contracted near the centre to a width of about a mile, +which is further lessened by the presence of a woody islet, the same I +have before alluded to. Nearly two miles within this narrow the Beagle +anchored off the settlement of the Australian Agricultural Company, a +straggling village called Carrington, on the western shore of the +harbour. + +TAHLEE. + +On the side of a hill, half a mile to the westward, is the residence of +the superintendent, a situation which, to enhance the pleasure of our +visit, was held by Captain P.P. King, R.N. Tahlee, the name of this spot, +surpassed in beauty all I have ever seen in Australia. It stands on the +crest of a steep grassy slope, over which are scattered numerous small +bushy lemon trees, the deep verdure of their foliage, interspersed with +golden fruit, contrasting charmingly with the light green carpet from +which they spring. At the foot of this declivity, a screen of trees +rising to a considerable height, almost shuts out the view of the water, +though breaks here and there allow small patches to be seen, athwart +which a native canoe occasionally glides to and from the fishing grounds. +These fairy boats, stealing along the water on a fine calm morning, +greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. They belong to a party of +natives who have taken up their quarters near Tahlee, and who, though by +no means a fine race, have always been well disposed towards Europeans. +Unfortunately they are much addicted to the use of ardent spirits, having +acquired the habit from the whalers who frequent the place. A young woman +and her husband form part of the domestic establishment at Tahlee. + +We were as much delighted as surprised with the richness of the +vegetation, when compared with its dry parched appearance at +Sydney--another of the striking contrasts characteristic of Australia. + +At Captain King's table I tasted the wonga-wonga pigeon; it is the +largest of any of the Australian kinds, and the flesh is very white and +rich. It is a difficult bird to shoot, as it always keeps in the thickest +foliage, and is strong and quick on the wing. + +Through the kindness of the same friend I was also enabled to enjoy a +ride into the country, during the interval between the observations for +rating the chronometers. + +RIVER KARUAH. + +I had to ascend the Karuah river, flowing into the north-west corner of +Port Stephens, for twelve miles, to a place called Boorral, the furthest +point at which it is navigable, and where all goods are landed for the +Company's stations up the country. Mr. Ebsworth the treasurer of the +Company resides there in a charming cottage, almost covered with roses +and honeysuckle, and commanding two picturesque reaches of the Karuah. + +About two miles within the entrance, the river winds between high and +steep banks, densely covered with creepers, acacias, and other vegetation +of a tropical character, all quite matted together, and hanging in +festoons, the ends of which are immersed in the water. + +Mr. White, who had charge of the Company's stock, met me at Boorral, with +horses, and we were not long in reaching Stroud, about seven miles higher +up on the eastern bank of the river. It is the head-quarters of the +Company, and has quite the appearance of a truly English village, each +cottage having its neat little garden. I was very much pleased with the +whole arrangement of the place, as I strolled through it in the evening, +and was delighted to find the inhabitants of a remote part of Australia, +retaining such vivid recollection of tastes so characteristic of +Englishmen. Several experiments had been tried in clearing the land in +the neighbourhood of Stroud, one of which was by what they call ringing +the trees; that is to say, they cut off a large circular band of bark, +which, destroying the trees, renders them easier to be felled. But the +danger of this practice was, that in stormy weather they were blown down, +thereby endangering the lives of persons or stock passing. In the +thickets near Stroud, great numbers of the Lyre Bird are found. They +receive their names from the shape of their tails, which one could hardly +suppose so small a bird, having no other beauty, could possess. + +TRIP UP THE COUNTRY. + +At Mr. White's hospitable cottage, I met two gentlemen on their way to +the Hunter river, and as fortunately the route I proposed taking, lay in +that direction, we started together early the next morning. Crossing the +Karuah, our road for some distance lay over a rugged country, along a +winding path between very steep hills. Six miles West-South-West from +Stroud, we passed through a range trending North-West from two to three +thousand feet high, the debris from which enrich the flats of the Karuah +on its eastern, and the Williams river on its western side. Our guide +amused me by pointing to some of the steep parts of the range which he +had galloped down, while hunting wild cattle, the most useful and +exciting sport known in Australia--useful, inasmuch as it prevents the +wild cattle from coming down to the plains and enticing away the tame +herds; and exciting, from the rough nature of the country, in which the +sport is pursued. + +WILD CATTLE. + +The wild cattle invariably keep on high ranges, and from their acuteness +of smell, are difficult to get at, and it is only to leeward that one can +approach them. The bulls being the leaders of the herds are always +singled out, and after a desperate and trying gallop over a rugged +country, the huntsman finds himself going stride for stride alongside one +of these Kings of the Forest, and wondering how an animal so ungainly in +his gait, can get over the country at such a pace. Jumping over fallen +trees, and dodging round others, he at last finds himself on a clear +spot, when drawing a pistol from his holster, and riding up so as almost +to touch the animal's side, he lodges a well directed ball just behind +the fore shoulder. This is the most critical moment. Great command of +your horse is required, for the bull, if not mortally wounded, turns +suddenly half mad with rage on his pursuer, and puts his nerves and +judgment to a severe test. + +On these occasions almost incredible feats of horsemanship are performed; +and nearly precipitous slopes are descended. I have seen similar exploits +nowhere but in Chile, where horses are ridden down the sides of frightful +ravines on their haunches at half speed for bets; but in that country the +severity of the bit gives the rider a power over his steed unknown +elsewhere. + +INCIVILITY OF A SETTLER. + +We crossed the Williams river, about fifteen miles South-West from +Stroud, and after nearly another hour's ride came to a place called +Wallaroba. I was here doomed to experience the only instance of +incivility I ever found in Australia. It was late in the afternoon of a +cold blustering day, and having breakfasted early, we were prompted to +test the hospitality of a Mr. Chapman, whose station we were passing. It +was the only one we had seen during the day, and knowing the possibility +of our being mistaken for bush-rangers,* we turned back our rough coats, +and rode up to the house as smart as we could make ourselves. We met the +owner standing in the gateway of the garden fronting the house, which he +nearly filled; but although presenting a John Bull's exterior, there was +a great deficiency of the national character within. After introducing +ourselves we asked for a little milk, but were refused on the plea that +there was none at the station. Our surly informant added, that we should +find a comfortable inn eight miles farther on. First looking at the +number of fine milch cows that were grazing near, and then at the +speaker, we turned and left him in silent disgust. + +(*Footnote. Escaped convicts, who live by plundering the settlers, taking +also their lives if any resistance is offered. I remember on one +occasion, a party of gentlemen had their horses taken from them: one of +them was of great value, and the owner thought he would try an experiment +to recover him, by saying in a jocular manner, that he would tie a card +with his address round the animal's neck, in order that when done with +they might know where to return him. Strange to say his experiment +succeeded, as the horse was sent back a short time afterwards.) + +We passed the night at the inn to which we had been directed, and next +morning I separated from my companions, our roads being different. There +had been a hoar frost during the night, and the morning was delightfully +bracing. About ten miles in a North-West direction, brought me to the end +of my journey at Cam yr Allyn, the residence of Mr. Boydell. A few miles +from this place, I passed the house of a Mr. Townsend, the road close to +which was literally through a garden of roses, which in the freshness of +the morning, diffused a delicious fragrance. + +Mr. Boydell's residence is on a rich spot of ground, on the banks of the +Allyn river, which runs among the spurs of a range of hills, trending +North-North-West, and distant about six miles to the eastward, where it +attains an elevation of three or four thousand feet. + +SAGACITY OF THE HORSE. + +The country in the neighbourhood is very hilly, and intersected by deep +narrow valleys or ravines. I was very much amused by the sagacity +displayed by the horses in crossing these. They make a point, as soon as +they get near the bottom on one side, of dashing down at a most +tremendous pace, in order to gain an impetus that shall carry them up the +opposite acclivity. The first time the animal I rode exhibited this +instance of forethought, I imagined he was about to run away with me; for +suddenly, without giving the least warning, he made a rush in a downward +direction and was across the valley before I could look round. + +All the hills in this part of the country, showed singular sloping sides +to the South-West, whilst on the opposite, they were almost +perpendicular; old red sandstone is generally found on their sides, and +granite on their summit. On the Allyn, I noticed the same kind of rich +limestone, that I found on the west bank of the Karuah, two miles within +the entrance. These two spots are about thirty miles apart. The rocks in +the valley of the Karuah belong to the transition series, and on the +shore of Port Stephens, they consist of porphyry, basalt, and greenstone. + +An instance here came under my own observation of the beneficial results +which sometimes arise from the punishment of transportation; knowing the +difficulty of getting good servants, I was curious to learn how Mr. +Boydell had procured his excellent butler, and on inquiry was surprised +to learn that he had been sent out for robbing Madame Vestris of her +jewels. + +CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. + +Mr. Boydell was cultivating tobacco to some considerable extent, with the +hope of being able to supply the colony; others who speculated on a +larger scale were ruined; for it soon turned out that it was impossible +to compete in cheapness with American tobacco. This was in consequence of +the extensive establishment required on the estate--the large drying +sheds that had to be erected, the number of coopers necessary, and the +general high price of labour. + +Mr. Boydell was also cultivating the vine, of which he made a light kind +of wine, a very excellent species of hock. The Messrs. McArthurs have +been at great expense in promoting this branch of cultivation, and are +entitled to their share of credit. But to Mr. Bushby the colony owes the +first introduction of the grape, which will hereafter prove of +inestimable benefit, from the great commerce to which it must give rise. +I may here mention that the same gentleman has deserved highly of his +fellow-colonists, by having been the means of bringing good water from +some distance into Sydney. The importance of this to the town was very +apparent even to us transient visitors, from the crowd of water carts we +constantly saw during the severe drought, patiently waiting their turn to +fill from the pump in Hyde Park. + +I was fortunate enough to find two gentlemen to return with as +companions, from Cam yr Allyn, which we left early, under the guidance of +a native, mounted on one of Mr. Boydell's horses. We were to have made a +short cut by crossing the hilly country; but after going some distance we +found our guide at fault, and he very innocently acknowledged himself to +be, as he termed it, "murry stupid." It was a long time, he said, since +he had travelled that way. Having however provided myself with a sketch +of the country and a compass, I was enabled to conduct the party out of +this dilemma. + +A CLEARING LEASE. + +On reaching the banks of William river, we inquired our way at a cottage, +whose occupants, I found, held a small piece of land on what is called a +clearing lease--that is to say, they were allowed to retain possession of +it for so many years, for the labour of clearing the land. Many an +industrious poor man is raised to opulence by this means, a pair of oxen +being all that is necessary to set them going. With them they drag away +the fallen timber, and afterwards plough the land. It is astonishing to +see what work oxen will do; they drag drays over almost incredible +steeps, not quartering them as horses do, but going straight up, be the +hills ever so steep. + +We learnt here that the township of Dungog, through which our road to +Stroud lay, was close by. We should readily know it, we were informed, by +the lock-up, a place of confinement for misbehavers, and generally the +first building in Australian towns. The particular erection alluded to, +seemed to be well known in the neighbourhood. As we crossed the William +river I was much struck with the richness of the flats on its banks. + +CROSSING THE KARUAH. + +In fording the Karuah, just before reaching Stroud, the effect was +singular and startling. The thick foliage arching over the river, quite +shut out the little light the stars afforded, and as we had to descend +into it, down a very steep bank, it was like plunging into a dark +bottomless pit; the noise of the stream over the stones alone told us we +should find a footing below. Into this gloomy cave our party one by one +descended, the foremost calling out when he had reached the bottom, that +the way was clear, and hastening across to prevent the horseman who +followed from being carried by the impetus into contact with him. Waiting +my turn upon the verge of the bank, I contemplated with pleasure the +heavy masses of the forest stretching like dark shadows behind me, and on +the other side, the long winding line of verdure at my feet, from beneath +which rose the splashing, rippling, gushing sound of the stream, whilst +overhead, the vault of heaven was thick inlaid with patterns of bright +gold. But the plunge of my companion's horse in the water, and his voice +calling out that all was right, soon drew me away, and in another moment +I was fording in utter darkness the rapid though shallow stream of the +Karuah. + +We passed the night at Stroud, and next morning started for Port +Stephens. There having been some delay in getting my horse, I was obliged +to push over the first seven miles in little more than a quarter of an +hour, the postman having waited for me over his time. + +PORT STEPHENS. + +On the 15th, the requisite observations were obtained for rating the +chronometers, which we found had altered their rates in a most singular +manner; so much so, that in spite of the short interval that had elapsed +since our departure from Sydney, we found the resulting meridian distance +between that place and Port Stephens, to be very defective. This fact +illustrates the unaccountable changes that sometimes occur in the rates +of chronometers, and the necessity of repeated measures of difference of +longitude to arrive at the truth. + +On the morning of the 16th we again sailed for the North coast with a +fine southerly wind. + +June 19. + +At noon, when in 30 fathoms, with coarse sand bottom, we saw Indian Head, +bearing North-North-West 10 miles, it is a dark cliffy point; but there +is another more remarkable in the shape of a quoin, three or four miles +to the northward. At 8 P.M., we were in the same depth, Sandy Cape, so +named by Cook for its being a low point streaked with patches of white +sand, bearing West-South-West eight miles. As it was now blowing very +hard from East-South-East, with constant squalls and thick rainy weather, +the ship was brought to the wind under snug sail, for the night. + +June 20. + +At daylight we were in 18 fathoms, the outer elbow of Breaksea Spit, +bearing South-East by South three miles. + +LARGE SHARK. + +It was when anchored under this Spit that in H.M.S. Britomart, a +monstrous shark was caught, about twenty feet long, in which were found +the bones of some very large animal, possibly those of a bullock, that +had been carried out to sea by some current. Steering North-North-West we +deepened the water in eight miles to 32 fathoms, and after rounding the +northern extremity of Breaksea Spit, which appeared to be formed of a few +detached breakers, steered West by North for Bustard Bay. In 28 fathoms, +with fine sand, we passed three miles south of Lady Elliott's Island, a +small level spot about seventy feet high, fringed with a coral reef, +particularly to the South-East, and forming the south eastern isle of +Bunker's Group. It was first seen at the distance of seven miles from the +Beagle's poop, the height of the eye being fifteen feet, and at that +number of miles east of it we had thirty fathoms. The weather was still +very hazy, but the wind had subsided to a light breeze from +East-North-East. After passing Breaksea Spit, a westerly current was felt +of nearly a knot an hour, which was also found to be the case in June, +1841. + +June 21. + +The morning was bright and sunny, a happy change after several days of +thick, rainy, and boisterous weather. The remarkable features in this +part of the coast, consisting of Round Hill,* Peaked Hill, and Mount +Larcom, stood out in bold relief against the pure blue of an Australian +sky. + +(*Footnote. This hill was seen 35 miles from the Beagle's poop, and is a +good guide for Bustard Bay. Peaked Hill we found to be 2000 feet high, +and Mount Larcom 1800. They form admirable points for fixing the position +of the groups of isles fronting this part of +the coast.) + +CORAL BANK. + +In the evening steering North-West by West we passed over a coral bank +three miles wide, the least water on which was nine fathoms. From this +depth we procured a specimen of living coral. This bank was again crossed +in June, 1841, a mile and a half further to the South-West, when the +depth was only seven fathoms. It lies eight miles South-South-West from a +low islet, four miles from which in a West-South-West direction is a +coral patch, nearly dry. This islet, in latitude 23 degrees 34 minutes +South to which we gave the name of Mast Head, forms the south-western of +a group fronting Cape Capricorn. The latter has a hump on its extreme, +resembling a haycock, and by our observations* is in latitude 23 degrees +30 minutes 30 seconds South, which is two miles south of its position in +the chart. As we were detained by light winds in the neighbourhood, I had +more than one opportunity of detecting this error. By midnight we were +about 18 miles North by West from Cape Capricorn, when we felt a swell +from the eastward, which assured me there was an opening in the reefs on +the north side of the group of islets fronting the Cape. + +(*Footnote. Hummock Island is alike in error with Cape Capricorn, but all +the distant points agree with the Beagle's observation.) + +FLAT ISLAND. + +June 22. + +There was a light air from South-West till near noon, then one from +seaward which freshened and became in the afternoon steady at South-East, +a quarter it afterwards prevailed from. We were at the time passing about +three miles from Flat Island, in 27 fathoms, an increase in the soundings +we had but just got into. We were glad to find the ship's position, fixed +by points both far and near, agree with the observations, a fact I can +only account for here, from the circumstance, that Flinders laid down the +coast about Port Bowen by observations on shore, whereas that in the +neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn, was from those made with the sea-horizon +which he found differ very materially. + +During the day we added to the chart the position of two peaks, 1900 feet +high, lying about 20 miles South-West by West from Cape Manifold, and +forming the northern end of a high rocky range. A current was also +noticed setting north a mile an hour. The entrance of Port Bowen bore +West-South-West 15 miles at midnight, when the depth was 30 fathoms. + +NORTHUMBERLAND ISLES. + +June 22. + +From thence we steered to pass between Number 1 and Number 2 of the +Northumberland Isles, in order that we might lay down their outlines +correctly, and also determine the positions of some small islets lying on +the South-West side of Number 1. The most remarkable land in sight in the +morning was Mount Westall, named by Flinders after the talented artist +who accompanied him, and which forms the highest part of the eastern +shore of Shoalwater Bay. The soundings during the night were very +regular, only varying from 30 to 33 fathoms with a soft muddy bottom, +mixed occasionally with which the lead brought up small stones. The +summit of Number 1 of the Northumberland Isles forms a remarkable peak +720 feet high; a sandy bay on the west side promised good anchorage, and +on its south-east and northern sides were some high detached rocks. The +heights of the other parts of the group vary from two to six hundred +feet. The crests of the western isles are covered with pine trees, which +give them a curious jagged appearance. In the afternoon we passed in 34 +fathoms four miles from the eastern side of the Percy Isles, which +enabled us to add their eastern extremity in the chart. The mainland +falling so much back soon after passing Port Bowen, we could form no idea +of its character, but certainly what we had seen did not leave a +favourable impression of its apparent fertility. + +SANDALWOOD. + +Captains Flinders and King, having given a description of the Percy +Isles, it will +not be necessary for me to say anything about them, further than that +they are composed of a trap-like compound with an aspect of serpentine, +and that either on them or the Northumberland Isles, sandalwood has been +found of late, and taken by a Tasmanian vessel to the China market. Just +before dark, the soundings decreased to 29 fathoms, Pine Peak of Percy +Group, bearing South-West 10 miles. Our course was now shaped for Cape +Gloucester, the extreme of the Cumberland Isles; and about this time we +felt the flood-tide setting South-West by West nearly a knot an hour, a +sure indication of there being openings in the barriers in that +direction. The great distance at which this part of it lies from the +islands will render its examination a difficult and hazardous +undertaking. The night was anything but favourable for sailing among +islands, being very hazy, with passing rain squalls. At midnight we +passed nearly two miles from the North-East side of k of the Cumberland +Group, in 27 fathoms, in which depth we continued till getting abreast of +Pentecost Island, the next evening, the 24th, when it increased to 35 +fathoms, but still on the same kind of green sandy mud bottom. At 10 P.M. +we passed about seven miles from Cape Gloucester, which at that part was +nearly 1600 feet high. Yet the night was so hazy, that it was only +visible at intervals. Here we noticed many ripplings which we afterwards +found indicated a North-North-West current of a knot and a half an hour, +caused no doubt by the proximity of a part of the barrier, the distance +between it and Cape Gloucester being only 13 miles. I may here observe +that the barometer was very high with these fresh South-East winds and +hazy weather, and rather low during the light North-West winds we +experienced in the neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn. + +CAPE UPSTART. + +June 25. + +At daylight the Beagle was a few miles east of Cape Upstart, in 17 +fathoms, having passed two miles from the north side of Holborn Island, +in 28 fathoms. The above headland received its name from Captain Cook, +and peculiarly deserves it, appearing in fact from the lowness of the +land behind, actually to start up out of the water. + +Chronometers being chiefly affected by changes of temperature, it was +necessary to ascertain the rates of those in the Beagle again before +reaching Port Essington, for a correct measurement of the difference of +meridians between that place and Port Stephens. The bay on the west side +of Cape Upstart had been recommended by Captain King for that purpose, as +he had considered it likely to be the mouth of an opening. This +conjecture the low land in the head of the bay, together with a singular +break in the distant hills seemed fully to justify. We accordingly +entered the bay and anchored half a mile within the North-East point. +This took us till the afternoon to reach, in consequence of our having a +light land breeze until 3 P.M. when it became steady from North-East, +drawing round to south, after sunset, and veering to South-West again in +the morning. This alternation of land and seabreezes continued during our +stay, for three or four successive days. + +In the evening we landed and ascended the North-East extremity of the +Cape, from whence we saw at once that hopes of discovering any opening +were delusive, the low shores of the Bay could be traced all round, +except in the North-West corner, where a point shut out our view. + +EXPLORATION OF A RIVER. + +On sweeping the western shore with a spyglass, I discovered the mouth of +a river about a mile to the north of a hillock marked in Captain King's +chart. This river was made the object of an exploring party, and next day +Captain Wickham and Lieutenant Eden, went on that interesting service. It +has two entrances, both very shallow, and is of little importance, being +on a lee shore and fronted by a bar, which seems to break at all times of +the tide. However, as there is such very safe anchorage near, the +discovery may hereafter prove of some value. Captain Wickham found it +fresh ten miles from the entrance, but at that point it is nearly lost in +the sands, and so very shallow that the natives have a fishing weir +across it. The land, which appears to be much cut up with creeks, is very +flat on both sides, and is subject to inundations. This was evident from +the signs of drift, to the height of six feet, on the trees that grew +along the banks, themselves not more than a couple of yards above +high-water mark. + +The exploring party saw a few natives, but they were too shy to +communicate. One was discovered on a long flat, crawling on his hands and +knees, to catch a glimpse of the strange intruders, and looking more like +a great insect than a man. In the distance up the river a good many +smokes appeared; but I doubt whether this may be considered as denoting a +densely populated country, as fires are kindled by the Australian +natives, both as signals and for the purposes of hunting. + +GEOLOGICAL QUERIES. + +Previous to my departure from England, I had the pleasure of hearing a +valuable paper by my friend Mr. Darwin, on the formation of coral +islands,* read at the Geological Society; my attention being thus +awakened to the subject, the interest of this important paper was to me +greatly enhanced by a series of queries, kindly furnished by Mr. Darwin, +and drawn up with a view to confirm or invalidate his views, his purpose +being to elicit truth from a combination of well attested facts, and by +inducing the research of others to further the objects of science. + +Among these queries was the following: "Are there masses of coral or beds +of shells some yards above high water mark, on the coast fronting the +barrier reef?" + +(*Footnote. See also the Hydrographer's Instructions supra.) + +RAISED BEACHES. + +Captain King, in answer to the above states, that some of the islands +within the reef have beaches of broken coral; and, as an instance, he +refers to Fitzroy island. + +I will, myself, here adduce what may be deemed an important fact; and +which, if allowed its due weight, will go far to weaken the arguments +brought forward in favour of the subsidence of the North-East coast of +Australia. I found a flat nearly a quarter of a mile broad, in a quiet +sheltered cove, within the cape, thickly strewed with dead coral and +shells, forming, in fact, a perfect bed of them--a raised beach of twelve +feet above high-water mark. On the sandy beach fronting it, also a few +feet above high-water mark, was a concretion of sand and dead coral, +forming a mass about fifty yards long. Fronting this, for about the width +of one hundred and fifty feet, was a wall of coral with two feet water on +it; and immediately outside, five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom, +slightly sloping off. The annexed woodcut will better explain what we +have here endeavoured to bring before the reader. + +SECTION OF THE COAST. + +This small coral-strewed flat where our observations were made, and the +results of which are as follows; latitude 19 degrees 42 3/4 minutes +South; longitude 15 degrees 36 1/2 minutes East of Port Essington, is +surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. Had it been on the seaward side +of the Cape, I might have been readier to imagine that it could have been +thrown up by the sea in its ordinary action, or when suddenly disturbed +by an earthquake wave; but as the contrary is the case, it seemed +impossible to come to any other conclusion, than that an upheaval had +taken place. The whole of Cape Upstart is a granite mass, and its crests +are covered with boulders, some of which have rolled down and form rather +conspicuous objects on the shores and points of the bay. + +PUMICE STONE. + +Near the North-West extremity of the Cape just at high-water mark, I +noticed some pumice stones, small and not having the appearance of +belonging to a recent eruption, which seems to agree with the opinion +expressed by the Reverend W.G. Clarke in the Tasmanian Journal. He +considers, and I think justly, that its origin may be in the Solomon, New +Caledonia, or some other of the volcanic islands to the east of +Australia, from whence it drifted, as it has been found on all parts of +the coast, to the southern portion of which it has doubtless been carried +by the current. Captain Wickham did not remark any above the entrance of +the river he explored, on the western side of the bay, which bears out +the opinion I have above expressed. A curious fact, mentioned by Mr. +Clarke is, that one piece, perfectly water-worn, was found upon a high +mountain, full twenty-five miles inland from the mouth of Clarence River. +Was this carried thither by one of the natives, or does it indicate that +pumice drifted to this part of the continent at a time when, if ever, it +was on a level with the ocean? I further remarked in this place, many of +the land shells common to this and other parts of the coast. + +There was great difficulty in attaining the loftiest point of the Cape, +which I found to be two thousand feet high. From thence our party +commanded a view of the whole of the bay, and discovered that we were, +strictly speaking, standing upon an island, a small creek winding round +the southern foot of the high land, and connecting the bays on the +eastern and western side of Cape Upstart. + +The break in the hills seen by Captain King, and supposed to indicate an +opening, has been already alluded to. On reaching the summit I found that +this was merely a valley, containing the head of the plain which +stretched from the shores of the bay. On its southern side rose Mount +Abbott; but one of the most remarkable features on the coast is Mount +Elliott, lying about forty-five miles West and by North from our +position. It is a long level hill, with a peak at its northern extremity. +All those in the neighbourhood, as far as I could judge with the +spyglass, seemed to be of the same formation with Cape Upstart. + +We found this a convenient stopping-place for vessels making the inner +passage, wood and water being easily procured. The latter is found in a +considerable reservoir fed by two streams from the high land of the Cape, +lying a mile within the mouth of the bay. From appearances, I should say +it would yield an abundant supply at any season of the year. + +NATIVES SURPRISED. + +There were a few natives loitering about on Cape Upstart when we arrived; +and I think we should have communicated with them had it not been for the +fright into which they were accidentally thrown. A boat's crew on landing +surprised a small party, which instantly dispersed in various directions. +A lad, however, instead of escaping with the rest, stowed himself away in +a crack between two boulders of granite. Every endeavour was made to get +him to come out of his hidingplace; biscuit was offered him, but he +snapped savagely with his teeth at the hand that held it. Finding all +attempts fruitless he was left; and no doubt, the account he gave his +comrades of us, while under the influence of fright, was sufficiently +terrible to take them all away from the neighbourhood. These natives used +nets similar to those I had seen on the North-West coast, and in their +make, resembling, in a remarkable manner, the ones employed by Europeans. + +PLANTS AND ANIMALS. + +In the valley, just within Cape Upstart, a few palms and a species of +cotton were growing; and in other places, the never-failing Eucalyptus, +of small growth. Certain bulbs* were also found, apparently of the same +species as those on the Percy Isles; several of which we removed and +presented to the Botanical Garden at Sydney, where we afterwards had the +gratification of seeing them in a flourishing state. + +(*Footnote. Crinum angustifolium. They belong to the Narcissus, but are +in themselves a new order of plant.) + +A few quails were shot of the same large kind as that found on all other +parts of the continent, also one or two pheasant cuckoos.* They did not +differ from those we killed on the North-West coast, although nearly five +degrees further south. A very large pigeon was also shot, resembling in +colour the common blue rock, but without a bronze mark. We had not seen +this species before; it was a very wary bird, and was found in the rocks. + +(*Footnote. Centropus phasianellus. Gould.) + +NEW KANGAROO. + +But the greatest prize our sportsmen shot was a specimen of a small +female kangaroo, of a new kind.* + +(*Footnote. Deposited in the British Museum, and figured as Petrogale +inanata, by Mr. Gould, who being misinformed, has described it as +inhabiting the north coast of Australia.) + +It measured as follows, just after it was killed: Length of body from tip +of nose, 18 inches; length of tail from stump to tip, 19 inches; weight 8 +1/2 pounds. Its colour was a slate or light grey on the back, and dirty +yellow or light brown on the belly; extreme half of tail black, with hair +gradually increasing in length, from the centre to the tip and +terminating in a tuft. On the back of the hind legs the hair is longer +than on any other part of the body. The nails on the hind feet were +short, covered with long hair, and did not project over the pulpy part of +the foot, which is well cushioned and rough, giving a firm hold to +projecting rocks. The head was small, and sharp towards the muzzle; the +ears were short and slightly rounded, the eyes black, and the forearms +very short. In this animal the pouch was very superficial. It inhabits +the most rugged summits, taking refuge in the clefts of the rocks. + +June 30. + +In the afternoon we left the anchorage we had been the first to occupy, +and standing out of the bay, were much struck by the rugged outline Cape +Upstart presents. The huge boulders scattered over the crest of the +hills, give it the appearance of a vast mass of ruins, the clear +atmosphere bringing it out in bold relief against the sky. We stood over +North-West for the opposite shore, and closing to within three miles of +the land changed our course and ran along the singular low point forming +the coastline to the North-West of Cape Upstart; and by 9 P.M. rounded +its northern extreme called Cape Bowling Green, at a distance of six +miles, in 17 fathoms, steering then to pass about four miles outside the +Palm Isles. During the whole night our soundings only varied from 17 to +19 fathoms. + +MAGNETICAL ISLAND. + +The weather was gloomy with passing showers of rain and a moderate +South-South-East breeze; but all was bright again by daylight (July 1st) +when Magnetical Island bore South 9 degrees West, and the south and +largest of the Palm Isles North 81 degrees West, which, corresponding +with the log, showed there had been no current during the night. +Magnetical Island was so named by Cook, because he fancied it affected +the Endeavour's compass in passing it. There is good anchorage on the +west side, where it is densely covered with trees, amidst which a few +straggling pines reared their lofty and angular-shaped heads, giving by +their variety a picturesque appearance to the scene.* We passed the Palm +Islands early in the forenoon. The largest we found to be 750 feet high, +with a remarkable white rock off its South-East extreme. + +(*Footnote. See the view annexed.) + +THE CORDILLERA. + +Behind these isles we saw numerous blue streaks of smoke from the fires +of the natives, indicating the state of population on the slope of that +lofty range of hills, which may be called the Cordillera of Eastern +Australia, and which at this point, tower to a great height, overlooking +the coast.* We were abreast about noon of its most remarkable feature, +Mount Hinchinbrook, in latitude 18 degrees 22 minutes South, rising to +the height, according to our observations, of 3500 feet. + +(*Footnote. The proximity of this high land to the coast, may account for +the gloomy weather of the previous night.) + +Although a number of fires being once seen is not always a sign in +Australia of a densely populated part of the country, yet when they are +constantly visible, as in this part of the continent, it is fair to +infer, that the inhabitants are numerous, and the soil fertile. I might +further remark, that Captain King found the natives well disposed; and at +Goold Island, in this neighbourhood, they even came on board his vessel +uninvited, an evidence of friendship and confidence, rarely +characterizing a race of beings so wary as are generally the inhabitants +of Australia. + +It is not a little singular that the altitude of Mount Hinchinbrook +should be identical with what Strzelecki considers the mean height of the +Cordillera, which he traced continually on foot, from 31 to 44 degrees +South latitude giving to the highest point, 6500 feet in latitude 36 +degrees 20 minutes South, the name of Mount Kosciusko, for reasons most +admirably and feelingly expressed, and which we therefore, in justice to +his patriotic sentiments, give below in his own words.* It will thus be +seen that there is a northerly dip in the cordillera of 3000 feet in 18 +degrees of latitude. + +(*Footnote. "The particular configuration of this eminence struck me so +forcibly, by the similarity it bears to a tumulus elevated in Krakow, +over the tomb of the patriot Kosciusko, that although in a foreign +country, on foreign ground, but amongst a free people, who appreciate +freedom and its votaries, I could not refrain from giving it the name of +Mount Kosciusko.") + +The great height of this range, and the extreme abruptness of its eastern +face, where no waters are thrown off, renders it more than probable that +on the western side there is land of great fertility. Whatever waters +originate on its summit and slopes, must flow towards the interior, and +there give rise to rivers emptying themselves into the Gulf of +Carpentaria, or by first forming lagoons, feed streams of some magnitude +even, during their overflow. + +HALIFAX BAY. + +It is the general opinion of every voyager who has sailed along the coast +of Halifax Bay, that it is the most interesting portion of the north-east +side of the continent; as, combining the several facts which we have +above given, we have every reason to believe that the discovery of +fertile and therefore valuable land, will one day reward the labours of +the explorer. + +Nothing was seen by us of the San Antonio reef, laid down in the charts +as fronting the Palm Isles; but this was subsequently accounted for by +Captain Stanley, who found that it was sixteen miles north of its +supposed position, being in latitude 18 degrees 17 minutes South, and +twenty-four miles distant from the nearest land, Hillock Point. + +This fact is the more satisfactory and important that, from its present +position, as laid down in the chart, being supposed to be near the Palm +Islands, it was apt to create an unpleasant state of anxiety in the mind +of those navigating these waters during thick weather or at night. + +From noon we steered North-North-West, and at 6 P.M. Dunk Island bore +South-West eight miles distant; our soundings varying, during that +period, from thirteen to fifteen fathoms. During the day we had several +opportunities of satisfactorily testing the accuracy of Captain King's +chart. While passing Barnard's Group, soon after dark, we found a current +setting West-North-West nearly a mile an hour, a rate at which it kept +during the whole night, but in a North-North-West direction. During the +day we had a light breeze from South-South-East, which shifted to +West-South-West during the night. Numerous native fires were observed +burning on the shore during the first watch, at the foot of the Bellenden +Ker hills, remarkable mountains of considerable altitude. + +FITZROY ISLAND. + +July 2. + +Soon after midnight we were abreast of Frankland Group, and at 7 A.M. +passed three miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island, where our soundings +increased to seventeen fathoms, with a current running upwards of a mile +an hour to the North-West, an increased velocity, which may be accounted +for by the proximity of the reefs to a projection of the coast forming +Cape Grafton. I must not, however, pass an island which like Fitzroy, +carried in its name a pleasing association to many on board the Beagle, +without a word of notice, particularly as its features are in themselves +sufficiently remarkable, having a singular peaked summit 550 feet high, +near the north-east end. On the western side is a little cove where +Captain King found snug anchorage. + +REEF NEAR LOW ISLES. + +Passing midway between Green Island, which is about twenty feet high, +encircled with a coral reef, and Cape Grafton, we steered North-West 1/2 +North for a shoal on which Her Majesty's Ship Imogene grounded; and at +noon, were exactly on the spot, in latitude 16 degrees 24 1/4 minutes +South by observations and bearings of the land, Low Isles being +West-North-West four miles. Here we found sixteen fathoms, not having had +less than seventeen since the morning. There was no appearance of any +such reef nearer than that laid down by Lieutenant Roe, bearing east from +the above-mentioned Low Isles and under which Her Majesty's Ship Tamar +anchored. It must therefore have been on the North-West part of this reef +that the Imogene struck, and the south part must be the reef laid down in +the chart as having been seen by her to the southward, which accounts for +our not seeing it from the Beagle. We passed through several patches of +discoloured water, caused by washings from reefs to windward, which are +very deceptive. At sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen fathoms, for +the first time since leaving Port Stephens. The south point of Weary Bay +bore West-North-West three miles, and Cape Tribulation South by East six +miles. Near the middle of the former, I noticed a patch of discoloured +water, which has since been found by a merchant vessel to be a shoal. + +HOPE ISLANDS. + +The land over the latter place is very high, presenting several singular +peaks, one more prominent than the rest, in the shape of a finger. That +over Trinity Bay, which we were the greater part of the day crossing, is +also of great altitude. In its south corner we noticed the river-like +opening spoken of by Captain King, lying in the rear of some remarkable +peaks. We had been informed by him, that the greater part of the coast +between Weary Bay and Endeavour River, including the Hope Islands, had +been altered from his original survey, a tracing of which he had +furnished us with previous to leaving Sydney. The few bearings we +obtained while at anchor, induced us to consider it correct, a fact we +further proved during the early part of the next day's run, as the course +steered from our anchorage North by West 1/2 West, carried us a little +more than a mile west of the Hope Islands. Had their assigned position in +the chart been correct, our course would have led us right over the +western isle. On detecting this error, we found it necessary to re-survey +this part of the coast, and it affords me much pleasure, after so doing, +to be able to bear testimony to the extreme correctness of Captain King's +original chart above alluded to. Soon after passing the Hope Islands, we +saw the reef where Cook's vessel had so miraculous an escape, after +grinding on the rocks for 23 hours, as graphically described in his +voyages. It is called Endeavour Reef, from this circumstance. + +CAPE BEDFORD. + +Continuing on the same course, we passed three miles from Cape Bedford, +at 4 P.M. This is one of the most remarkable features on the coast, being +a bluff detached piece of tableland, surmounted by a singular low line of +cliffs, reminding me forcibly of the lava-capped hills on the river Santa +Cruz, in eastern Patagonia. As far as I could judge, by the aid of a good +glass, it seemed to be composed of a mixture of red sand and ironstone, +of a very deep red hue, bearing a great similarity to the country on the +North-West coast, in latitude 15 1/4 degrees South. + +Leaving Cape Bedford, we went in search of a shoal laid down by H.M.S. +Victor, as lying two miles to the West-South-West of Three Isles. Both +Captain King and Lieutenant Roe had expressed a doubt of its existence in +the position marked, a doubt which our researches fully justified; and +therefore, as it at present stands, it should be expunged from the chart. +From thence we steered north for Lizard Island, the remarkable peak on +which soon rose in sight; this course took us within three miles of Cape +Flattery, where a couple of peaks, with a slope between them, render it a +conspicuous headland. + +About seven miles west from thence, there is a strange alteration in the +appearance of the country, changing from moderately high conical-shaped +hills, to lofty table ranges about 500, or 600 feet in height, trending +about South-West and by West. + +LIZARD ISLAND. + +Having still a little moonlight, we were enabled to keep underweigh part +of the night, and during the first watch came to in 13 fathoms, in a bay +on the west side of Lizard Island, the extremes bearing from South 1/2 +East to East-North-East. During the day we experienced a northerly +current, varying from three quarters to half an knot an hour. + +July 3. + +We remained at this anchorage, until the following morning, for the +purpose of determining the position of the island, and of visiting the +peak, which we found to be nearly twelve hundred feet high. I ascended by +a slope rising from the shore of the small bay where our observations +were taken, and which may be easily distinguished, from being the second +from the north point of the island. Their result was to place it in +latitude 14 degrees 40 3/4 minutes South longitude 13 degrees 17 3/4 +minutes East of Port Essington. Variation by the mean of five or six +needles was 7 3/4 degrees East being half a degree more than it was at +Cape Upstart. Other magnetic observations were also made, consisting of +those for the dip and intensity. + +In a valley to the left of the slope by which we ascended the peak, were +noticed several very remarkable, low and spreading trees, with a dark +green foliage, and leaves large, ovate, and obtuse. The branches, from +which, when broken, a milky juice exuded, were thick and glossy, of an +ash colour; at their extremity they were thin, with long pendulous stems, +supporting a bell-shaped flower, of a rich crimson hue; these hung in +great profusion, and contrasting with the surrounding dark green verdure, +presented a very beautiful and striking appearance. The diameter of the +trunk of the largest tree was 20 inches, and the height 25 feet. +Lieutenant Emery painted a most faithful representation of one of them, +by means of which we found on our arrival at Port Essington, that neither +the professional nor amateur botanists, had any knowledge of it. To them +and to ourselves it was alike perfectly new. + +CAPTAIN COOK. + +On the preceding evening I had refreshed my memory by reading Cook's +account of his visit to the same spot, and was thus able minutely to +follow in the footsteps of the immortal navigator. There is an +inexpressible charm in thus treading in the track of the mighty dead, and +my feelings on attaining the summit of the peak, where the foot of the +white man, had perhaps but once before rested, will easily be understood. +Below to the eastward stretched a vast expanse of water, broken at the +distance of about eight miles, by a long narrow line of detached reefs, +on which there ran a white crest of foaming breakers, marking the outer +edge of the Great Barrier, a name which few seamen could hear with +indifference when in its vicinity. If I felt emotions of delight, on +first perceiving the extent of a danger so justly dreaded, how much +stronger must have been the feelings of Captain Cook, when from the same +spot years before, he saw by a gap in the line of broken water, there was +a chance of his once more gaining the open sea, after being confined to +the eastern shores of the Australian continent, for a distance of 750 +miles. + +Though the dangers of this inner channel had proved so nearly fatal to +his ship, the truth of the homely adage, which describes all as happening +for the best, was here fully borne out, as the very fact of his position +enabled Captain Cook to make considerable discoveries along the +coast--just as by the mishap on Endeavour Reef, the presence of a river +was made apparent, and some slight knowledge of the aborigines obtained, +as well as numerous facts illustrative of the natural and vegetable +productions of the locality. + +PROVIDENCE CHANNEL. + +Little did he think at that time, however, when standing on the summit of +the peak, that he was about as it were to thread the eye of a needle, by +passing through another break, in a manner which can only be designated +as providential. This gap in the great reef is now known as Providence +Channel, a name which must ever remind us of Him, who in moments when our +lives hang as by a thread, is ever watchful, and spares us in the +exercise of his inscrutable will. + +Carried back to times past, we stood upon the summit of the height, +dwelling in thought upon the adventurous career of the great navigator, +when suddenly, as if by magic, the whole scene below and around was +obscured, and we found ourselves wrapped in a dense cloud of vapour, +which came sweeping across the island, drenching us to the skin, with a +rapidity which spoke volumes for the penetrating character of an +Australian fog. Cold and shivering we hailed the temporary re-appearance +of the sun with delight, and our clothes were dried almost as speedily as +they had been wetted. Our satisfaction was however but of short duration, +as the same agreeable operation, of alternate drenching and drying, +occurred several times during our stay on the Peak. + +BARRIER REEF. + +The opening through which Captain Cook passed out to sea, bore about +North by East 9 miles, the outer line of the Barrier Reef, curving from +thence to the North-West, and following the trend of the land. When this +singular wall of coral, the most extensive perhaps in the world, is +surveyed, it will I think be found to follow the direction of the coast +it fronts with such exactness, as to leave little doubt that the vast +base on which rests the work of the reef-building Polypifers, was, +contrary to the opinion which I am aware prevails, upheaved at the same +time with the neighbouring coast of the Australian continent, which it +follows for a space of upwards of a hundred miles. + +CORAL REEFS. + +From the elevation on which I stood, I had an excellent view of some +reefs within the Barrier; whether they encircled an islet, or were wholly +beneath the water, their form was circular, although from the ship, and +indeed anywhere, viewed from a less height, they appeared oval-shaped. +This detection of my own previously erroneous impressions, seemed to +account for the recurrence in charts of elongated-shaped reefs, others +having doubtless fallen into the same error. It is very remarkable that +on the South-East or windward side of these coral reefs, the circle is of +a compact and perfect form, as if to resist the action of the waves, +while on the opposite side they were jagged and broken.* + +(*Footnote. In the Pacific the islets are generally on the weather side +of the lagoon reefs.) + +The South-West side of the peak rises perpendicularly from a grassy flat, +which stretches across that part of the island, separating two bays, the +beaches of which with the rest on the island are composed of granulated +quartz, and coarse shingle. A stream of water, rising in the peak, runs +through the green, while a few low gumtrees grow in small detached +clumps; a ship may therefore procure both water and fuel; finding this to +be the case, and as it was a convenient stopping place, we made a plan of +the island, connecting it with those in the immediate neighbourhood. It +is the more advantageous as an anchorage, in that it can be reached +during the night, whereas this could not be done in the inner channel +near Turtle Islands, it lying so much to the westward, and being more +intricate. Indeed it is not prudent to approach these isles even in the +afternoon, from the number of reefs, and the difficulty in seeing them +with the sun ahead. + +Mr. Bynoe was not fortunate enough to add to his collection of birds; +those he observed being only doves and parrots, besides a flycatcher +common to parts of the coast, and often before met with by us. + +A couple of vampires of the larger and darker species were also seen, and +numerous land shells (Helix) similar to those on Cape Upstart; found near +the roots of trees, buried in the decayed vegetation. Two old coconuts +and large quantities of pumicestone were picked up on the south-east side +of the island. The prevailing character of the rocks was granitic, out of +which some beautiful specimens of hornblende were procured. The entire +island was fringed with a narrow strip of coral, but I noticed none of it +above high-water mark. + +HOWICK GROUP. + +July 4. + +We took our departure at an early hour, and after running round to sketch +the north-east side of the island, stood to the westward for Howick +Group. The weather being thick we did not discover the somewhat +remarkable peak on Number 1, until we were close to it. Our progress was +accelerated by a current running half a knot an hour, and finding the +passage between Number 1 and 2 of Howick Group, much impeded by rocks, we +hauled up between 2 and 3 isles, and on keeping away again +West-North-West for Point Barrow, found ourselves close to a reef, almost +dry, and extending nearly a mile further off the North-East side of Coles +Island, than is laid down in the chart; thus contracting the channel +between it and Number 4 island, to a space of not more than two miles. +When the course was shaped for Point Barrow, Noble Island, a very +remarkable pyramidal-shaped rocky height, was a point on the port bow. +Its singular appearance makes it conspicuous amid the recollections of +this part of the coast. + +We now once more approached to within a distance of seven miles of the +mainland, which presented to our view a low sandy shore, with a few +remarkable hummocks rising over it, and somewhat high, broken, rocky land +immediately behind. + +CAPE MELVILLE. + +Passing Point Barrow we anchored near the north end of a large reef, Cape +Melville bearing West-North-West ten miles. Here we felt a swell rolling +in from seaward, and during the day there had been a current in our +favour, of about a mile an hour. From the haze on the horizon, noticed +from this anchorage, as well as on passing Cape Melville, I believe the +outer edge of the Barrier Reef to be not more than four or five leagues +distant from the land. + +Our attention had been previously directed by Captain King and others, to +the singular appearance of the rocks on Cape Melville; indeed no one can +pass this remarkable projection without being struck by the strange +manner in which piles of reddish-coloured stones are scattered about in +the utmost confusion, and in every possible direction over this high +ridge. I much regretted that on passing next morning there was no +opportunity of landing to see the nature of this confused mass; judging, +however, from the result of my examination of a similar appearance +presented by Depuch Island on the north-west coast, I believe this point +to be of volcanic origin. + +CAPE FLINDERS. + +Between the rocks off Cape Melville, and a reef encircling two small +islets, the channel is not more than a mile in width: indeed, I consider +passing this point and Cape Flinders the most intricate part of the inner +route. After rounding the rocks off the former we steered for the latter +Cape, keeping it a little on the port bow; this course led us on reef a, +lying midway between the Cape and a low island to the North-East. When on +the southern extremity Cape Flinders bore South 70 degrees West 3 miles, +and Clack Island North 39 degrees West. The latter is a remarkable cliffy +lump, interesting from the circumstance of Mr. Cunningham having found +native drawings in its caves. + +After clearing this danger, and passing the Cape, we steered across +Princess Charlotte Bay, keeping wide to the southward of the reefs +fronting it, in order that we might the more easily distinguish them; the +sun at that time of the day being in the direction of the ship's head. +The soundings gradually decreased with a soft muddy bottom, as we +approached the eastern shores of the bay; which is so large and free from +shoals, that a vessel not wishing to anchor might pass the night standing +off and on with perfect safety. There is over the head of this bay a +remarkable level-topped hill, called by Captain Cook, Janes' tableland; +rendered the more conspicuous from the low nature of the surrounding +country. + +SECTION OF CORAL REEF. + +In the evening we anchored a mile from the South-West side of a small +detached reef, marked F in the chart, and distant 22 miles from Cape +Flinders; the solitary position of this reef, it being four miles from +the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and nine from the nearest part of +the main, gave us a good opportunity of making a section, with a view of +illustrating the progressive structure of coral edifices, in the still +waters within the barrier reef; we accordingly visited the spot in the +evening, and being an interesting object, we give a drawing of the +section. + +It proved a good specimen of the circular or lagoon reef. One young +mangrove was growing on the elevated part marked C in the woodcut. The +rim which rose on all sides was quite black, but white when broken; the +highest part being about three feet above the water. The nature of the +bottom within the reef was a white sand mixed with small pieces of dead +coral: without, we found on either side soft green sandy mud with shells, +the inclination of the bottom on which the reef rests, being only one +degree, we may fairly infer it to be superimposed on a most extensive +basis. + +CLAREMONT ISLES. + +July 7. + +To-day being Sunday we did not proceed further than Number 4 of the +Claremont Isles, a low rocky group encircled by coral reefs, to give the +ship's company a run on shore during the afternoon; in order to remind +them of its being a day of rest appointed by the Lord. When we anchored, +we found, contrary to the usual north-westerly tendency of the current, a +tide setting South-South-West three quarters of a knot an hour, this +lasted for a space of four hours, when it changed, and ran +North-North-West from half to three quarters of a knot during the +remainder of our stay. The wind was moderate from East-South-East. + +July 8. + +We weighed at 6 A.M., and about the same hour in the evening again +anchored under Restoration Island. The ship's track during the day +followed the trend of the land, keeping about seven miles from it, except +when opposite Cape Direction, where we were about half that distance from +the shore. We found little to add to Captain King's chart, with the +exception of some reefs lying about ten miles east from the +above-mentioned headland. + +CORDILLERA. + +The coast here again attained a moderate height, and a round hill ten +miles south of Cape Direction, reached the height of 1250 feet; its +latitude being 13 degrees South is nearly five degrees and a half north +of where the Cordillera is 3500 feet high, and 23 1/2 degrees of where it +attains its greatest elevation, that of 6500 feet; a fact which will at +once demonstrate the northerly tendency in the dip of the chain of hills. +This degree is further illustrated by the height of Pudding-pan Hill in +11 degrees 19 minutes South being only 384 feet. From the data given, +despite the limited number of our facts, it will be seen that the dip +becomes gradually more rapid as you advance to the northward. + +South-East from Cape Sidmouth the passage was much contracted by a +covered rock in the very centre of the channel; this may be avoided by +keeping close to the West side of island Number 6. Restoration is a lofty +rocky lump, terminating in a peak 360 feet high. A smaller islet of the +same character lies about half a mile off its South-East side; there is +also a remarkable peak on the shore, four miles to the southward. This +part of the coast is thus rendered very conspicuous from seaward, and may +be discerned outside the Barrier reefs. Restoration Island is a point of +some interest from having been first visited in 1789 by Captain Bligh, +during his extraordinary and unparalleled voyage in the Bounty launch, +from the Society Islands. The dangers and perils undergone by this +undaunted voyager, and our consciousness of the joy which the sight of +land must have brought to his heart, gave much zest to our feelings with +regard to the locality. There is always an interest in connection with +scenes associated with a name such as that of Bligh, but to us the +interest was double; it was the sympathy of seamen with a brother +sailor's misfortunes. + +RESTORATION ISLAND. + +As Captain King had not examined this interesting spot, we thought his +chart would be greatly improved by our passing a day in the place; this +was the more necessary as we found it to be a snug anchorage and +convenient place for ships passing. The name of Restoration Island was +given it by Bligh, from the circumstance of his having made it upon the +anniversary of the recall of Charles II. to the throne of England. + +July 9. + +The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of this +neighbourhood, afforded ample employment during the day. The weather +being dull, with passing rain, and squalls, the view I had anticipated +enjoying from the summit of the island was quite destroyed. Like Cape +Upstart and Lizard Island it is a granite mass. Dead coral was found on +the western side, ten feet above high-water mark, a fact which in some +measure supports what I have stated in connection with the raised beach +on Cape Upstart. A low sandy tongue of land forms the South-West extreme, +leaving a narrow passage between it and the main. This flat is covered +with brushwood, gumtrees, and a few palms. The observations were made on +this point, and the results were as follow: latitude 12 degrees 37 +minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 11 degrees 16 3/4 minutes East of +Port Essington. + +July 10. + +The morning broke with the same dull, gloomy weather, the wind fresh at +South-East and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by a +few passing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on our +passage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs, +which at high-water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen in +that direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes Islands, +remarkable rocky lumps, more so, however, from the extreme lowness of +those in their vicinity, than from their own magnitude. The latter was +found to be 340 feet high. A North-West by North course from Restoration +brought us to Piper Islands. The soundings were from 11 to 13 fathoms, +with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than had +been before noticed. + +SIR EVERARD HOME'S ISLANDS. + +Passing between them and reefs H and I also between Young Island (an +elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) and +reef M, we hauled up North-East by North round the north end of the +latter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected by +shoal water and extending about four miles from Cape Grenville. We passed +midway between them and Haggerston's Islands, a square lump 240 feet +high. + +COCKBURN ISLANDS. + +Sir Charles Hardy's and the Cockburn Isles are also conspicuous objects +in this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible from +outside the Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making their +way through these reefs. + +In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile from the north side of +the Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just before +standing in West-South-West to the anchorage. Five miles South-East by +East from these isles, we passed close to the position of a patch of +shoal water, according to the chart: its presence, however, was not +detected, the depth at the time being nineteen fathoms. The only +additions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besides +increasing the number and altering the position of Cockburn Islands, with +the reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased from +two to four; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hundred +feet high. The current during the day set steadily North-West almost a +mile an hour. On anchoring we found it setting West-North-West at the +same rate. At midnight it changed its direction to East-South-East from a +quarter to half a knot an hour. The time of high-water being about 6 +A.M., it is evident the flood-stream came here from South or South-East. +The islands passed during the day, were of a small lagoon character and +the reefs oval-shaped, with an elevated patch of dead coral at their +north extreme, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. The +mainland had much changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisome +series of undulating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet in +height. The coast was, therefore, utterly void of any feature of +interest, after passing Fair Cape. + +July 11. + +At daylight we were again underway and steered North by East for the +purpose of ascertaining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u and +v. When Number 1 of a group next south of Cairncross bore North 43 +degrees West four and a half miles the course was changed to +West-North-West to pass between the reef fronting its south side and reef +w where we had a depth of 20 fathoms; both of these we found it necessary +to enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship was +West-North-West two miles from the position of an island according to +chart; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it down +upon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does not +exist, or that it is much out of position. + +BOYDAN ISLAND. + +Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anchored in 18 fathoms, one +mile South 65 degrees West from the centre of the island before +mentioned--Number 1 of the group South of Cairncross--shortly before +noon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew of +the Charles Eaton were massacred. It was therefore determined that the +remainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a view +to ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interest +of the search was to me greatly enhanced, from having seen at Sydney +young D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of an +Indian officer returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessness +excited the sympathies of an Indian woman, who snatched him from the arms +of his murdered mother, and sheltered him within her own. Nor did her +kindness stop here, the never-failing maternal solicitude of the sex, +inducing her to protect and console the child. + +EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND. + +We had just read Captain P.P. King's interesting pamphlet in relation to +this sad event, detailing with minuteness all the circumstances of the +tragedy, and with our minds so recently imbued with the horrors it +inspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity; +anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond a +doubt. The isle was easily traversed, being of small extent, not more, +indeed, than a mile in circumference. We crossed it accordingly in every +direction, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which great +quantities of turtle bones, and some coconut shells were scattered about. +It was remarkable that wherever boughs were cut, an axe or some other +sharp instrument had been used. A topmast with the lower cap attached to +it, was found on the South-East side of the island, which we afterwards +discovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outer +barrier three months before. + +Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from the +circumstance of young Ireland's stating, that on their way to it in the +canoe, after leaving the raft, they first passed three islands on the +right northward, and one on the left southward. + +CORRECT CHART. + +From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following morning we +found it necessary to correct the chart, thus decreasing the number of +islands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far too +much to the westward, while 8 and 10 were placed to the eastward of their +true position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous, +much alike, and are passed quickly. The change in the number and position +of the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King, +and I am further inclined, from these corrections, to draw the conclusion +that Number 4 of the group is Boydan island, a name given by the Murray +islanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded massacre we +have already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail in +Captain Stanley's highly interesting narrative, further on in the present +work. + +On examining the reef fronting the island, which is a more perfect +specimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outer +edge consisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising at +low-water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holes +existed, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges, +sea-eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reef +were many Chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had formerly +seen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220 +pounds. + +Singular to say, at 3 P.M., I observed the latitude by a meridian +altitude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed with +Captain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in latitude 11 +degrees 28 minutes South. + +TIDAL OBSERVATIONS. + +We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupied +during the passage. From 1 to 5 P.M., it set half an knot an hour to the +southward, then changed to North-West by North, increasing its rate to +one knot by 10 o'clock, and decreasing it to a quarter of a knot by 2 +A.M., when it again set to the South-South-West. The stream thus appears +to set nine hours North-West by North and three South-South-West. The +short duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by the +northerly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the only +spot where our fishermen had any success; in a few hours several dozen of +a species of small red bream being caught. + +Three or four ships passing together would find a secure berth about two +miles North-North-East of where the Beagle anchored, where the depth is +moderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in this +particular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, and +still greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former with +a strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover the +supposed Boydan, or Number 1 isle, can be left a full hour before +daylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress for +some miles. Those who are not desirous of passing the reefs off Wednesday +and Hammond Islands, late in the day, with the sun in an unfavourable +position, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under the +largest York isle, or under the Cape of that name. + +CAIRNCROSS ISLAND. + +July 12. + +We left at an early hour, steering North-North-West 1/2 West for +Cairncross Island, which we passed at a distance of half a mile from the +eastern side in 16 fathoms. Its height is seventy-five feet to the tops +of the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited it +in the month of September, are dwarf gums. The tea-tree of the colonists +is also found here, in addition to some small bushes. This island is the +resort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leucomela) the +ends of the wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoe +found the island quite alive with them; flocks of about twenty or thirty +flying continually to and from the main. They not only resort but breed +there, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not met with in +the Beagle on the western coast, we may fairly conclude it only inhabits +the eastern and northern; the furthest south it was seen by the officers +of H.M.S. Britomart was latitude 20 degrees. In addition to these, Mr. +Bynoe saw the holes of some small burrowing animals, which are doubtless +rats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a native +encampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards. +The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, and +the impression of their feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that at +this season of the year, being the favourable monsoon for ships passing +through the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to the +southward are much frequented by the natives of Murray and others of the +northern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of some +ill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by magic, hastening to the +doomed vessel; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has the +sportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads of +vultures winging their way towards the carcass, though a few minutes +before not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indians +resembles that of the carrion bird itself,* while their rapacity and +recklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower animal. + +(*Footnote. As some of our readers may imagine that vultures and birds of +prey are attracted to the carcasses of animals by smell, I may state that +an experiment was tried with a condor in South America; being hoodwinked, +he passed unnoticed a large piece of beef, but as soon as the bandage was +removed, he rushed eagerly towards and devoured it.) + +PUDDING-PAN HILL. + +We left our readers at Cairncross Island, and now return to our narrative +by describing the neighbouring coast. The most remarkable feature on this +part of the mainland, generally speaking a dull monotonous level, is a +hill bearing over the extremity of the reef fronting the south side of +Cairncross, South 45 degrees West, to which Captain Bligh has given the +quaint name of Pudding-Pan Hill. It received this appellation from a +resemblance to an inverted pudding dish, commonly used by sailors, and is +354 feet high. The coast about ten miles to the northward projects a mile +and a half further eastward than is marked in the chart. This error did +not however appear to be so great south of Escape River, where the +character of the coast is low and cliffy, separated by small sandy bays; +instead of a continued line of cliffs as at present represented. + +ESCAPE RIVER. + +At noon we were in the parallel of the south point of Escape River, in +latitude 10 degrees 58 minutes South, observations and bearings both +agreeing. This river receives its name in record of one of those narrow +escapes to which surveying vessels are subject, Captain King having been +nearly wrecked in the Mermaid. Attempting to enter the river he found it +not to be navigable, a reef extending across its mouth, on which his +vessel struck very heavily. + +CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS. + +Avoiding Captain King's track, we passed to the eastward of reef x, being +thus afforded a better opportunity of determining its position than he +had. This we did by transit bearings with different points, which placed +it nearly two miles South by East of the spot assigned it on the charts.* + +(*Footnote. On mentioning this afterwards to Captain P.P. King, he told +me his survey of that part of the coast had never given him satisfaction; +for there the monsoon blows fresh, and his small vessel was hurried past +without his being able to land in search of better data for the chart. +The reader must not, from these corrections (few, when we consider the +extent of the survey) be led to imagine that our object is to pick out +errors in the surveys of others; but from being in a larger and better +appointed vessel, our opportunities of examination were necessarily +greater than those afforded to Captain King, who was always most anxious +to detect errors in his own charts. Without dwelling on the fact that the +result of our examination afforded us the satisfaction of restoring parts +of the chart, before erroneously corrected, to his original construction, +we would venture to hope that, while desirous as much as possible to +perfect our knowledge of the coast, we were in no manner actuated by that +spirit of fault-finding, so pithily described by Liebeg, when he says +that it is "startling to reflect that all the time and energy of a +multitude of persons of genius, talent, and knowledge is expended in +endeavours to demonstrate each others' errors.") + +This error we found to extend also to reefs y and z. X is one of the +oval-shaped reefs, with the singular white patch of dead coral on its +northern extremity which I have before spoken of. Z is similarly marked, +and dries at last quarter ebb, while the South-East part of y is never +covered, a few mangroves growing on it. When abreast of x, we saw from +deck the curious flat-topped hill on the largest York island, Mount +Adolphus, and when over the centre of reef z, it bore North 23 1/2 +degrees West. We now steered to the westward between reefs, x and y, and +afterwards North-North-West for Mount Adolphus. Between the Brothers and +Albany Islands the depth was 10 fathoms; these are both black rocky +lumps, particularly the latter, the outer being a mere pointed rock. +Altogether they assume a sterile and dreary appearance, in excellent +keeping with the inhospitable character of the adjoining coast. Several +shoals and much shoal water were noticed in Newcastle Bay. + +BLACKWOOD BAY. + +At 4 P.M., we anchored in Blackwood Bay, in a depth of 10 fathoms. Point +Dicky bearing South half a mile, and Mount Adolphus North-East. In the +evening a plan was made of this very convenient stopping place for ships, +and all the angles taken to the North-West extremity of the group, place +them a mile and a half to the eastward of their position in the chart. +Observations were also obtained near Point Dicky, which we found to be in +latitude 10 degrees 38 3/4 minutes South and longitude 10 degrees 28 +minutes East of Port Essington. The North-West extremity of the singular +flat-topped hill being 1 minute 05 seconds North, and 45 seconds East of +this spot. The first question interesting to ships is the supply of wood +and water; the latter we had no time to look for, but of the former there +was an abundance, though from the shore being fronted by extensive coral +flats, it is difficult to be attained. + +The appearance of the island is similar to that of the Albany cluster, it +having the same rocky, bleak, and almost wild look; from which I conclude +they are of the same formation, which in general terms we may call +porphyritic. Parts of the island appeared to be intersected by a growth +of mangroves. + +There appeared great irregularity in the tides at this anchorage, as if +there were a meeting of various streams. At 5 P.M. it was setting +South-West about an hour, and continued to run in that direction until 8 +hours 30 minutes, gradually decreasing its rate. It then took a North and +by East direction with the same velocity, until half an hour after +midnight, when it again changed back to South-South-West, a course it +pursued during the remainder of our stay. By the rise of the water on the +shore it would appear that the flood came from the westward. + +TORRES STRAIT. + +On reaching York Island we considered ourselves within the Strait, which +took its name from the Spanish navigator Torres, who sailed in 1605, +second in command under Pedro Fernandes de Quiros, from Callao in Peru, +with the object of discovering the Tierra Austral, then supposed to be a +continent occupying a considerable portion of the southern hemisphere, +lying westward of America. Torres passed through this strait in 1606, but +despite the great importance of the discovery, its existence remained +unknown until 1762, from the jealousy of the Spanish monarchy, which kept +the reports of its navigators a secret from the world. At the time in +question, however, Manila fell into our hands, and in the archives of +that colony, a duplicate copy of Torres's letter to the king of Spain was +found by the hydrographer, Mr. Dalrymple. The passage was now made known, +and in tardy justice to the discoverer it received the appellation of +Torres Strait; a tribute to the reputation of man, the greatest perhaps +which could be bestowed, since no more sure road to immortality can be +pointed out, than giving a name to the great and imperishable works of +the Creator's hand. It was not however until 1770, that the world +received full confirmation of this great acquisition to our geographical +knowledge; the immortal Cook then passing through and settling the +question of its existence. This being the high road between our growing +Eastern and Australian possessions, the reader will at once see the +importance which must ever attach to the discovery, and will the more +readily comprehend our enlarging in some degree upon the circumstance. + +July 13. + +There had been noticed last evening a slight rippling outside the bay, +and on leaving this morning we found it to be a ridge about two cables +width, the least water on it being three fathoms. From the shoalest part, +Mount Adolphus bore North 56 degrees East, and Point Dicky South 26 +degrees East. It appeared by the ripples continuing towards the +north-west of York Island, that this rocky ledge extended in that +direction. Vessels entering Blackwood Bay may always avoid this shoal, by +keeping close to Point Dicky, or by steering for Mount Adolphus, when it +bears North-East 1/2 North. + +Being desirous to know if there were a practicable channel through +Endeavour Strait, by which the inconvenience before alluded to, of +passing the reef fronting Hammond's Island late in the +afternoon, might be avoided, we proceeded in that direction, passing +along the north-eastern extreme of the continent, and between the +Possession Islands we entered Endeavour Strait. This termination of the +shores of Australia, being level and of moderate elevation, presents +nothing remarkable, save a peak over Cape York and fronting the +Possession Isles. + +COOK'S ISLAND. + +It has an inhospitable appearance, being apparently similar in formation +with York Isles, and subsides rapidly to the South-West forming the south +side of Endeavour Strait, where it scarcely reaches an elevation of fifty +feet: contrasting forcibly with the high rocky land of the opposite side +of the Strait, formed by the largest of the Prince of Wales Islands; upon +which former navigators not having bestowed a name, we conferred that of +the immortal navigator. Not but that the Strait known by the name of his +ship, is quite sufficient to recall the mind of posterity to his perils +and dangers in these seas; but that we his humble followers in the great +cause of discovery might add our mite to the wreath of glory which must +ever encircle the name of Captain Cook. + +On the North-East extremity of this island is a remarkable peak, in the +shape of a horn, called by him Horn Hill. Captain King having only passed +between the eastern of the Possession Isles, little was known of the +western shores. A few angles and bearings were accordingly taken, as we +passed between them to assist in remedying this deficiency. + +ENDEAVOUR STRAIT. + +There was no impediment to our passage through the Strait, until we got +abreast of Wallis Isles, Cape Cornwall bearing East by North 1/2 North; +when the water shoaled to four fathoms and a half. Finding by hauling up +on either tack, that we were on a ridge extending from the Cape, we ran +to the westward, until we could cross it, which we did in three and a +half fathoms, North Wallis Island bearing South-West five miles. + +BOOBY ISLAND. + +I saw at the time from the masthead, a blue streak of water to the +southward, still affording hopes of there being a deep outlet to +Endeavour Strait; but as the day was far advanced, with a fresh breeze +from East-South-East, it was not deemed prudent to get the ship entangled +in shoal water; therefore, after crossing the ridge extending off Cape +Cornwall we steered North-West 1/2 West for Booby Island, in regular +soundings of six and seven fathoms, and late in the afternoon anchored +nearly a mile from its western side, a flagstaff bearing South 65 degrees +East. This we found on landing had been erected in 1835 by Captain +Hobson,* of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, who at the same time placed in a large +box, made for the purpose, a book with printed forms, which every ship +passing filled up, with the addition of such remarks as were thought of +consequence. Over this box in large letters were painted the words Post +Office, a name by which Booby Island must be quite familiar to all who +have navigated these seas; ships being here in the habit of leaving +letters for transmission by any vessel proceeding in the required +directions. I noticed a similar practice prevailing among the whalers at +the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific. We are indebted for the book to the +public spiritedness of an Indian army officer. The beneficial results of +the plan were experienced by ourselves, as here we first heard of the +Port Essington expedition, having passed eight months previously; also of +the schooner Essington, that left Sydney in advance of the expedition for +that place, having succeeded in determining the fact of the non-existence +of the other young D'Oyly, one of the passengers of the ill-fated Charles +Eaton. This result of the enterprising merchant-man's researches, fully +bears out the fact mentioned by Captain King, on the authority of the +Darnley islanders, that he shared the fate of his parents, being devoured +by their savage captors. All the ships which have recorded their passage +in the book, appeared to have entered the Barrier between the latitude of +11 degrees 30 minutes and 12 degrees 10 minutes; generally about 11 +degrees 50 minutes reaching Sir Charles Hardy's Island the same day. They +all spoke of a strong northerly current outside the reef, in some +instances of nearly three knots. The time occupied in making the passage +from Sydney by the outer route, varied from fourteen to twenty days, it +being certainly shorter than the inner, though attended with much greater +risks. One objection made against the latter is the necessity of +anchoring every evening, somewhat laborious work to the crews of merchant +ships; this might be obviated in some measure by using a light anchor, +which could be done with perfect safety in the still waters within the +reefs. We found two barques at anchor, which had arrived on the preceding +day. In accordance with a practice very generally observed, they were +giving themselves a short period of repose and relaxation after the +anxieties and danger of the outer passage; which, short as it is, has +doubtless sprinkled grey hairs over many a seaman's head. + +(*Footnote. Afterwards Governor of New Zealand.) + +ITS DESCRIPTION. + +Although Booby Island is a mere rock, from the various associations +connected with it, being during one half of the year the constant resort +of Europeans, it becomes at once a place of interest, and imperatively +demands some notice at our hands. It is a quarter of a mile in diameter, +flat, and about thirty feet high, the summit being bare porphyry rock. A +valley intersects the north-west side of the island, in which a few +creepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, with +a peculiar broad green leaf, bearing a great resemblance to that of the +wild almond of the West Indies, were seen, giving shelter to some pigeons +and quails, in which latter the island abounds, even more than in the +bird which gives its name to the locality. Still, however, from the white +colour of the top of the island, produced by the boobies, it is clearly +one of their temporary haunts; and indeed, subsequently, in the month of +September, their season of incubation, Mr. Bynoe saw them there in great +abundance. The contrary was the case with the quail, which, by that time, +had completely deserted the island. Turtle were once found on this isle, +but they are now never taken. A few of the stones mentioned by Captain +King are still to be seen on the summit. + +REMARKS ON THE CORAL REEFS OF AUSTRALIA. + +This being a point at which ships correct or test the going of their +chronometers, it was necessary to obtain observations for longitude. The +spot chosen for the purpose was the landing-place near the South-West +corner of the islet, and which we found to be 9 degrees 45 minutes East +of Port Essington. + +Our opportunities of examination with regard to the inner edge of the +Great Barrier, and its contiguous islands and reefs, terminating at Booby +Island; it may not be deemed irrelevant to hazard a few remarks in +recapitulation. In the first place there was a very perceptible increase +in the elevation of the reefs and of those islands resting on similar +constructions, as we advanced to the northward. Cairncross Island, in +latitude 11 1/4 degrees South, composed of heaped up consolidated +fragments, attains an elevation of 17 feet; but its trees rise to a +height of 75 feet, whilst to the southward, in latitude 13 1/2 degrees +South the islands were partially flooded by a tide, rising only about six +feet. The reefs are all either circular or oval-shaped, with a rim rising +round them. The description of that fronting the isle we visited for +Boydan will illustrate their general character. Their northern ends are +the highest, and are almost invariably marked by a heap of dead coral and +shells, which as we have mentioned, in one or two instances, from its +white appearance has often been taken for sand. + +The remarkable breaks in this singularly great extent of coral reefs, +known as the Barrier of Australia, being in direction varying from West +to West-North-West generally speaking North-West, leads me to believe +that the upheaval by which the base of this huge coral building was +formed, partakes of the general north-westerly direction, in which a +large portion of the eastern world apparently emerged from the water. A +glance at the map of that portion of the globe, will strengthen this +hypothesis, placing as it does this singular fact at once before the +reader's mind. Starting with the stupendous heights of the Himalaya +mountains, and proceeding thence to several groups of the Polynesian +islands, New Caledonia, and others, this remarkable similarity in the +trend of these portions of the earth is plainly distinguishable. It would +appear, therefore, from the general north-westerly tendency of these +upheavals, that the cavernous hollows beneath the crust of the earth, +within whose bosom originated these remarkable convulsions, have a strong +inclination in one direction, a circumstance in connection with the +earth's history of great and curious interest. With this general +statement of facts, which we note for the benefit of scientific men, and +in illustration of the singular changes which are taking place on the +surface of the globe, we return to our narrative, from which we have +wandered at some considerable length. + +As the duration of our cruise on the north-west and most interesting +portions of the coast, depended in a great measure on the supply of +provisions to be obtained at Port Essington, we were naturally anxious to +satisfy ourselves upon the point, and accordingly spent but a few hours +at Booby Island, taking our departure at 8 P.M. on the day of our +arrival. + +PROCEED TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +Proceeding towards Port Essington, we experienced a constant current +setting between North-West and West, from half to three quarters of a +knot an hour, except when crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Carpentaria, +when from the indraught its direction was changed to West-South-West. The +winds were as Captain King has described them, veering from +South-South-East in the morning, to East in the evening, and blowing +fresh towards the middle of the day. + +Beyond this nothing occurred worthy of remark, until the morning of the +17th, when soon after daylight we found ourselves steering rather within +a large patch of discoloured water, extending off Cape Croker, the +North-East extreme of the Coburg Peninsula, a low point with a slight +hummock on it; on the north side of this peninsula is situated Port +Essington, thirty miles to the westward of the Cape. + +CAPE CROKER REEF. + +The light-coloured water off the latter, we knew indicated the reef +discovered by the brig Tigris, belonging to the Indian navy, which in +company with the New South Wales colonial schooner, Isabella, was +returning from rescuing the survivors of the Charles Eaton, from the +natives of Murray Island. When half a mile from the North-East side, in +22 fathoms rocky bottom, Cape Croker, bearing South 29 degrees East six +miles; we steered out, keeping at the same distance round this patch of +light water in twenty and twenty-one fathoms, seven or eight miles from +the Cape, which bore when over what appeared the shoalest part, South 42 +degrees East. + +This conclusion I afterwards found, on meeting Captain Stanley, to be +correct, as that bearing led over the part of the reef he struck on in +H.M.S. Britomart. But being on the inner part he was distant only three +miles from Cape Croker, whilst the outer edge of the reef I believe to be +seven miles from it on the same bearing. In hauling up to the southward, +round the North-West extreme of the discoloured water, the soundings were +as follows, 17, 12, and 19 fathoms, with rocky bottom. The Cape bore when +in the least depth South 58 degrees East nine miles. + +We were fortunate in having such good means of determining the longitude +of Cape Croker, by observation of a twilight star when in the meridian, +and others with the sun soon afterwards. These both agreeing, place the +Cape 27 1/4 miles east of Port Essington, instead of 20, as it is laid +down in the chart. This discovery is of vital importance to ships +proceeding to Port Essington; we were therefore glad of so good an +opportunity for rectifying the error. + +PORT ESSINGTON. + +Expectation was on tip-toe as we were fast approaching Port Essington, +feeling naturally anxious to see what progress had been made at the new +settlement, and to learn the fate of the expedition. There was, however, +nothing striking in the first appearance of the land, a low woody shore; +the most remarkable object being a sandy islet, with a tree in its +centre, about a mile east of Point Smith, the eastern point of Port +Essington: Vashon Head forming the western. + +As we drew near, a boat came alongside belonging to H.M.S. Britomart. +From Mr. Pascoe we heard that the Alligator had just sailed for Sydney, +leaving the former to await her return at Port Essington. The people +forming the settlement had been very healthy, bearing out Dr. Wilson's +account of Raffles Bay; and had found the natives exceedingly well +disposed. For this advantage we are indebted to the excellent judgment +displayed by the unfortunate* Captain Barker, late Commandant of Raffles +Bay, he having during his stay in that place, treated them with kindness, +to which they were fairly entitled from men so far their superiors in +knowledge and power, and who were moreover intruders upon their soil. Had +this noble conduct of Captain Barker been more universally accepted as an +example, the results would, we doubt not, have been equally satisfactory +elsewhere. + +(*Footnote. This expression may to some of our readers require +explanation, and we therefore quote a brief extract from Dr. Wilson's +voyage round the world, page 284. "In obedience to orders from the +Colonial Government, he was examining the coast in the vicinity of +Encounter Bay, principally with the view of ascertaining whether any +available communication existed between the river Murray (lately +discovered by Captain Sturt) and the Sea. While in the execution of this +duty, he was barbarously murdered by the natives, and his body thrown +into the sea." In Sturt's two Expeditions volume 2 page 239, a detailed +narrative of this tragedy is given.) + +WRECK OF THE ORONTES. + +We also heard with much regret,* of the wreck of the Orontes, which +accompanied the expedition from Sydney. She left the settlement, with the +intention of proceeding to some port in the East Indies; and when just +clearing the harbour struck on a reef, knocking a hole in her bows. She +filled so rapidly that they had barely time to reach the shore under +Vashon Head, ere she sank. The reef, which now bears her name, is +according to Mr. Tyers' plan, received from Mr. Pascoe, a mile in extent +east and west, and half a mile north and south; while the nearest part of +it is distant from Vashon Head and Point Smith very nearly five miles. +From its extremes the following are the bearings; from the western, +Vashon Head South 49 degrees West, Point Smith South 55 degrees East: and +from the eastern the same points bear South 60 degrees West and South 48 +degrees East. + +(*Footnote. The loss of a ship is always looked upon as a most untoward +event, on the occasion of a new settlement being formed, and is ever +forcibly imprinted upon the memory of all ship-masters. This was felt to +a most serious extent at Swan River; and many masters of vessels in +speaking of Port Essington, have at once expressed their fear of +proceeding thither, deterred by the loss of the Orontes.) + +ORONTES REEF. + +The least depth on the Orontes reef is about a fathom, but the generally +discoloured state of the water, renders it impossible to determine its +exact position, and thus greatly increases the injury done by its +presence to the mouth of the harbour. The same difficulty prevents the +end of the reef fronting Point Smith from being made out. After rounding +the latter, we hauled to the wind, South-West by South up Port Essington. + + +CHAPTER 1.11. + +Port Essington. +Bearings from shoals in the Harbour. +Appearance of the Settlement. +Meet Captain Stanley. +Church. +Point Record. +Prospects of the Settlement. +Buffaloes escape. +Fence across neck of Peninsula. +Lieutenant P.B. Stewart explores the Country. +Natives. +Uses of Sand. +Tumuli-building Birds. +Beautiful Opossum. +Wild Bees. +Escape from an Alligator. +Result of Astronomical Observations. +Geological Formation. +Raffles Bay. +Leave Port Essington. +Popham Bay. +Detect error in position of Port Essington. +Melville Island. +Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait. +Cape Hotham. +Native Huts and Clothing. +Geological Formation. +Discover the Adelaide River. +Interview with Natives. +Attempt to come on board. +Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared. +Exploration of the Adelaide. +Its capabilities. +Wood-ducks. +Vampires. +Another party ascends the Adelaide. +Meet Natives. +Canoes. +Alligator. +Visit Melville Island. +Green Ants. +Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned. +Tides in Dundas Strait. +Return to Port Essington. +Theatricals. +H.M.S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions. +Further remarks on the Colony. + +PORT ESSINGTON. + +The expanse of water presented to our view in standing up Port Essington, +quite delighted us. It is in truth a magnificent harbour, and well worthy +of having on its shores the capital of Northern Australia, destined, +doubtless, from its proximity to India, and our other fast-increasing +eastern possessions, to become not only a great commercial resort, but a +valuable naval post in time of war. Many circumstances combine to render +it a desirable station. Its great size, having an extent sufficient to +hold the largest fleet, is in itself of vast importance, while, as a +shelter for distressed vessels, or the surviving crews of wrecks, it +cannot be too highly rated: the more so that excellent wood for repairing +ships grows in the neighbourhood, especially teak and oak, specimens of +which with others, Captain Laws forwarded, in 1828, to one of the +dockyards in England. + +As we advanced the shores of the harbour contracted, and at the distance +of thirteen miles from the entrance are only one mile apart; scarcely +half, however, of this space is navigable, from a bank extending off the +west side, which is a rocky head called Spear Point, from the +circumstance of Captain King having been there nearly speared by the +natives. The bearings for clearing the extremes of this reef are as +follows. For the south-eastern, Adam Head South 20 degrees West, for the +eastern, Middle Head South 18 degrees West, and for the north-eastern, +Oyster Head North 47 degrees West. This great decrease in the breadth of +the passage, necessarily gives the tide at this spot great rapidity, by +which a channel, thirteen fathoms deep, has been formed close to the +eastern shore, a low sandy tongue of land called Point Record. This name +was given to it on the occasion of Port Essington and the contiguous +country, being taken possession of by Sir Gordon Bremer when on his way +to settle Melville Island, in 1824. A bottle containing an account of +their proceedings was buried, and hence the name. The same cause which +influences the tides, has rendered the sides of the narrow channel very +steep, and a vessel standing towards the bank fronting Spear Point, +should, accordingly, tack when the water shoals to nine fathoms, as the +soundings in approaching that part fronting Port Record are 12, 9, 7, and +2 fathoms. + +Beyond these points, the harbour again widens and forms a large basin +nearly five miles in extent; but from a broad point projecting two miles +from the south-east side, the inner harbour is proportionably decreased +in size. From the extreme of this cliffy point, called by Captain King, +from its position, Middle Head, a narrow bank extends some distance in +the direction of Point Record, forming the only danger in this part of +the harbour. + +BEARINGS FOR THE HARBOUR. + +From its outer edge, Point Record bears north, and the North-East part of +Middle Head, South 76 degrees East. These and other bearings recently +given, will perhaps be considered of little value by the general reader, +but as they were required to take the Beagle into Port Essington, they +will be found useful to others for the same purpose. + +APPEARANCE OF THE SETTLEMENT. + +The narrow entrance to the inner harbour, may by some be considered a +drawback, but on the other hand, it must be borne in mind, that what is +an impediment to navigation, is also a safeguard against attack. +Moreover, from this want of breadth in the harbour, a fort on Point +Record, which is commanded by no height, would perfectly protect it. + +It was from this confined portion that our anxious desire to catch a +glimpse of the new settlement was at length gratified; and we were +somewhat surprised, considering the recent date of its formation, to +discover the presence of so many buildings as were scattered over the top +of a cliffy point on the south-west part of the harbour, called Adam +Head, at the base of which was a long jetty. + +Clearing the bank off Spear Point, we ran up and anchored near H.M.S. +Britomart, lying off the settlement, early in the afternoon. The sight of +another vessel is ever cheering to the hearts of those who have been, as +it were, for a time, cut off from the world;* nor was our arrival, +bringing, as we did, news and letters, any less welcome; though after a +long interval the receipt of a letter, perhaps bearing an ill omen in the +very colour of its wax, is very far from generating unmixed emotions of +pleasure. So much may occur in the brief space of a few months, that a +seal must ever be broken with feelings of great anxiety. + +(*Footnote. I well remember the sensations I experienced on first seeing +a sail after an interval of nine months, and that wholly spent on the +storm-beaten shores of South-western Tierra Del Fuego. J.L.S.) + +PORT ESSINGTON. + +We too had our share of news to be made acquainted with. Captain Stanley +had been on a most interesting cruise to the Arru Islands, the deeply +interesting narrative of which expedition the reader will peruse, we are +sure, with unqualified satisfaction, in a later section of the present +work. This meeting gave me real pleasure, though with regret I saw that +he had been much harassed. Lieutenant P.B. Stewart,* of the Alligator, +had also made a journey over the Peninsula, to which I shall presently +further allude. + +(*Footnote. Since promoted for services in China; he also served in the +Beagle during her last expedition.) + +We were of course extremely anxious to visit the settlement. Landing at +the jetty, which we found a very creditable piece of workmanship erected +under the direction of Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, we ascended the cliff, +and on gaining the summit, found ourselves on a small piece of tableland +partially cleared. Seen through the trees, the dwellings of the settlers +had an air of neatness, pleasing to the eye. Among the other buildings in +progress was the church, which, planted as it was on the northern shores +of the Australian continent, was expected to form a nucleus from which +offshoots might by degrees draw within its influence the islands in the +Arafura Sea, and thus widely spread the pure blessings of Christianity. +It is highly characteristic of our countrymen, that where with other +nations, the tavern, the theatre, the dancing-house, are among the +earliest buildings in a new settlement, with us everywhere the church is +first thought of. In few corners of the world, where English influence +has extended itself, is this otherwise than true, and it is a highly +enviable distinction. It seems, indeed, that wherever the flag of Britain +floats, there is made known the Word of God in its purity; and as an +empire has been vouchsafed us on which the sun never sets, the extent of +our influence for good in this respect is incalculable. We may venture to +express our sincere hope, that our country will ever continue to enjoy +this noble supremacy. + +At the south-east extremity of the settlement, raised on piles, was the +Government-house, fronted on the harbour side by a small battery. Behind +the table-plain, the land, producing very coarse grass, falls away to the +south-west, and some clear patches which from lying in a low situation, +are flooded during the rains, form tolerable soil. Generally speaking, +however, there is a great deficiency of land fit for cultivation. On some +of the best spots lying to the southward and westward, gardens have been +commenced with some success. + +Before proceeding further with our journal of events at Port Essington, +it may be proper to introduce some brief account of the state and +prospects of the settlement at that place. The reader will remember an +allusion in a previous chapter to the departure from Sydney of the +expedition despatched for the purpose of forming it, as well as some +remarks on the policy of giving it a purely military character. That +expedition reached its destination on October 27, 1838, having taken +formal possession on the way, of Cape York and the adjacent territory. +Sir Gordon Bremer's first care was to select a site for the proposed +township; and after due deliberation, a spot was fixed on which was +thought to combine all desirable advantages: as good soil, the +neighbourhood of fresh water, and easy approach from the ships in port. +In the selection of the spot to be occupied by a settlement, the +capabilities of the soil must ever be the first consideration; still, +however, there will always exist an objection on the ground of its great +distance of 16 miles from the mouth of the harbour. A similar +disadvantage in the Falkland Islands, proved of great detriment to the +settlement in Berkeley Sound. + +The site of Victoria, for such was the name bestowed, in honour of her +Majesty, on the new settlement, is raised in the loftiest part about +fifty feet above high-water level. Upon it the plans of a number of +cottages and gardens were rapidly marked out; and it was not long before +this hitherto desolate spot presented the appearance of a large +straggling village. A pier was speedily run out into the sea; and a good +road cut to it. The church, also, which I have before mentioned, was soon +to be distinguished, rising above the Government cottage and officers' +quarters; while in order to ensure an ample supply of water, deep wells +were sunk on the tableland within the settlement, which fully answered +expectation, the water proving good and abundant. + +Not long after the arrival of the expedition, M. Dumont D'Urville, with +the Astrolabe and Zelie, arrived in Raffles Bay, and it was popularly +believed that they had entertained some intentions of forestalling our +settlement. At any rate, the question whether foreign powers were +entitled to take possession of points on the coast of Australia was much +debated at the time. However this may be, and with whatever feelings the +respective Governments of France and England may have regarded each other +at the time, the officers of the two nations seemed to vie in courtesy. A +boat was despatched from Victoria to invite them to enter the harbour, +and the greatest harmony prevailed during their stay. + +On the 28th of March, six Malay proas came in and were soon followed by +others, their owners soliciting permission to erect their establishments +for curing trepang under the protection of the British flag. This being +granted, they made choice of a spot on the beach, and a little subsidiary +settlement soon sprung up. Being now for the first time secure from the +attacks of the natives, whose hostility had until then forced every other +man of them to keep under arms whilst the rest worked, they expected to +pursue their occupation with far greater advantage to themselves. +Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays, +and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington: but from some +defect in the colonial regulations their immigration was for a time +checked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facility +given for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago and +the Celestial Empire. + +The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend with +from the beginning, is the climate; which, though not absolutely +pernicious in itself, is unsuited to European constitutions. The settlers +have been attacked at various times by fever, and have experienced a +large comparative mortality; but hopes are entertained that by proper +regulations, especially if temperate habits could be introduced, this may +be avoided. + +The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been pronounced +totally unfit for agricultural purposes, are still supposed by others to +be great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in the +climate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton, +indigo, etc. might be raised, of the finest quality, and in great +abundance. + +The livestock at the settlements, consisted, by the last accounts, of an +English cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fifty +goats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a few fowls, five +ponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of these +were private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, on +hearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividly +to my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals might +be prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, between +Mount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Diemen's Gulf. The +width is only three miles, and the rude Micmac Indians of Newfoundland, +have carried fences for a similar purpose many times that extent. The +necessity of so doing became more apparent each time I visited the place, +especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the main. +Another advantage which occurred to me in connection with this subject, +was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thus +led to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimately +tend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior; this after our +subsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater moment. +The existence of the out-station would also form a change for the +settlers, and journeys thither would remove the dreary inactivity of a +new settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence may account +for Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the mainland; he +discovered the tracks of a cloven-footed animal, which one of his men who +had been much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of a +buffalo. But one advantage can arise from the want of this precaution. +Some of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called Cow +Pastures, were discovered, by finding them to be the constant haunt of +wild cattle; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in the +neighbourhood of Port Essington. + +To return, however, to the period of the establishment of the colony: it +was of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploring +Cobourg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated; and accordingly on May +1st, Lieutenant P.B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, started +on an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions on +two ponies, but did not encumber themselves with a tent; sheltering +themselves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On the +second day they crossed several running streams, with extensive grassy +patches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on the +banks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew many fine cedar-trees, of a +light colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the mangrove +appeared on all sides: these much impeded their advance, and prevented +them from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the eastern +side of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, in +some parts reminding them of the rich South American forest, rather than +the dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffalo +seemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences, +also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, and +at length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit. +They acted as guides to the explorers, showing them where water could be +found, giving every information in their power, and supplying them with +crabs; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as much +as could be spared was given them. On May 8th, they conducted Lieutenant +Stewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise at +the precision with which they found their way in the bush without having +any apparent means to guide them. I have before alluded to this +instinctive power of the aborigines of Australia. + +Lieutenant Stewart gives as the general result of his observations, +extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance of +fresh water on the Peninsula; that the South side is by far the finest +and best watered country; that the trees are there free from the white +ant; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage-palm abounds. He +also observes, that as much of the south coast as he saw, has a coral +reef extending about a mile from the beach; and that the rise and fall of +the tide is much greater than at Port Essington. + +The natives were found by the settlers, as we have already stated, very +friendly, and their assistance proved valuable: they brought in the head +of the palm-cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though to +procure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed: they also supplied the +party with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly made +himself known on the arrival of the Expedition in the Bay; he was called +by the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his proper +appellation was Marambari. + +From Lieutenant Vallach* of H.M.S. Britomart, I received much valuable +information respecting the natives, whom I find to be divided in three +distinct classes, which do not intermarry. The first is known as +Maudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They are +very particular about the distinction of classes, but we could never +discover which was the superior and which the inferior class, though it +is supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that the +Madrojilly, or first class, head the others in war, and govern the +affairs of the tribe. + +(*Footnote. Lieutenant Vallach died at Moulmain in 1841.) + +These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differing in some matters +from the other natives of Australia; their hair was neither curly nor +straight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevails +among them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. I +noticed in particular that they did not make use of the boomerang, or +kiley, but of the throwing stick or womera, of a larger kind, however, +than any I have observed elsewhere; the head of their spears was made of +stone. They have a smaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and other +animals at a considerable distance. They have also large heavy clubs, +while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwing +stick.* They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, on +which occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chiefly +obtained from the Malays. + +(*Footnote. We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these and +other weapons are figured.) + +I here saw the only musical instrument I ever remarked among the natives +of Australia. It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, through +which they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, is +called ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally made +use of at corrobories or dances, some of which express feats of hunting +and war, while others are very indecent, and reminded us of similar +exhibitions in the East. It was generally remarked that the old clothes +given to these savages disappeared in a most mysterious manner. They were +understood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of the +interior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in which +the Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding from +the hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the natives +make up for their total want of covering, by burying themselves in it, +and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black lumps +sticking out of the earth, like so many enchanted unfortunates in an +eastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a substitute for +soap;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled over +the meat, as we should pepper. + +(*Footnote. Their general habits are cleanly.) + +One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was that +the large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to be +raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them are +thirty feet long and about five feet high; they are always built near +thick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. The +edifice is erected with the feet, which are remarkable both for size and +strength, and a peculiar power of grasping; they are yellow while the +body is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hopping +towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials +for building. Though much smaller in shape, in manner they much resemble +moor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which are +deposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in part +from decomposition. The instant that the shell bursts, the young bird +comes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care being +taken of it by the parent. Of the number of eggs laid by each bird, +seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds are +found away from the earth and shells of which they are composed. It seems +difficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure so +large. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high, on one of the +Possession Islands in Endeavour Strait. + +The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and it +will be unnecessary to +enter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it most +interestingly in his work on the birds of Australia. + +Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period of +our arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. There +are three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I must +further allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits these +parts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and designated as +Belideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly resemble the chinchilla, and I +have little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be made an article +of trade. This animal has a membrane between the fore and hind paws, +which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is a +great enemy to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests; the bees the +natives discover by tapping the tree and listening for a buzzing from +within. Those we saw, amounting to nearly a hundred, were about the size +of a fly, of a dusky black colour, and strange to say, were hovering +round an empty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hives +at Sydney. + +Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape from +them. It appears that one of these monsters who had come out of the water +in the night, in search of food, found him sleeping in his hammock, which +he had very injudiciously hung up near the water. The alligator made a +snap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of his +slumbers, the man dexterously extricated himself out of his blanket, +which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointment, +carried off in triumph. For some time this story was not believed, but +when afterwards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, a +portion of the blanket was found in his stomach with the paw of a +favourite spaniel, taken when swimming off the pier head. + +Extensive hauls of fish were made on Point Record, amongst which one +species, there called salmon, was most excellent eating. + +It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds of +Port Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result of the labours +of an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood. + +The spot selected for our observations was Government House, where nearly +a hundred observations with the sun and stars were made for latitude, the +mean result being 11 degrees 22 minutes 21 seconds South, which strange +to say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers' +determination: this difference to me was quite unaccountable, as the +instruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently, +satisfactorily tested at well determined places. The longitude being +affected by the doubtful meridian distance between Sydney and Port +Stephens, we can only give an approximate result; and therefore for the +sake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of Port +Essington, we consider it 132 degrees 12 minutes East of Greenwich. + +From the quantity of iron in the rocks at Victoria, it was impossible to +get any satisfactory observation for the variation of the compass. Those +obtained varied from 3/4 to 2 1/2 degrees east. + +We found that Mr. Tyers had made about seven months' observations on the +tides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two to +thirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the full +and change. Oxide of iron is found in some places in large quantities, +and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it is +which gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Croker +and Port Essington. Many of the cliffs were composed of a light-coloured +marl; but the formation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of the +highest and most remarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as Mounts +Bedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops, bearing some resemblance to +the curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe this +formation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundred +feet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula. + +RAFFLES BAY. + +The temperature during our stay averaged 82 degrees while land and sea +breezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that Lieutenant +Stewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officers +as above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a good +harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer. Of the old settlement +nothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended to +render this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus population +of the mother country, extending at the same time the blessings of +civilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all else +away, and there in solemn solitude, upon that still and silent shore, +mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whose +praiseworthy efforts were rendered futile, by the unfavourable reports +forwarded to Government; reports we cannot think entirely free from +prejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of the +Commandants declared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army in +preference to going there.* One thus prepared to dislike the place, could +scarcely be expected to take an interest in the country, or endeavour +fully to develop its resources. + +(*Footnote. See Wilson's Voyage round the World page 153.) + +We cannot avoid expressing our regret at the abandonment of the +settlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully under +Captain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to the +natives, to whose goodwill we must always owe much, we have already given +one of the causes which assisted in fostering the undertaking. Nothing +could be more unwise than the hostility shown to the natives by the first +settlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that is +useful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country; a +knowledge which would otherwise consume much time to acquire. This was +not the only matter, however, in which he showed his superior good sense +and judgment. His enticing the people of Macassar to come and locate +there, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led in +time to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled to +retract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor of +Macassar, in order to stop the immigration, which otherwise would have +been considerable. With all these several elements of success, we should +doubtless, but for the abandonment, have now had a flourishing settlement +in Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thus +succinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: first, the +unhealthiness of the climate; secondly, the hostility of the natives; and +thirdly, the non-visitation of the Malays." + +These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, to be without much +foundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving of +Raffles Bay, perhaps an ill-chosen site, but rather that the settlement +was not removed instead of being given up. When the anxieties and +difficulties which universally accompany the formation of a new +settlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will be +more easily understood. When Port Essington was located, all these had to +be suffered over again; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, been +transferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitch +of perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flag +waves constantly, it will always prove a check on the marauding +propensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially to +the general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe as +fall within the influence of the respected locality.* + +(*Footnote. In further proof of the prospects of success, which were open +to the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the following +extract from Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coepang, in company with +Captain Barker, after their final departure from Raffles Bay. "We were +informed by the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about to +emigrate from Java to Raffles Bay, having recently learned that they +would be permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast of +New Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they had +anticipated great advantages from a commercial intercourse.' Wilson's +Narrative page 179.) + +LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON. + +July 24. + +Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from the +settlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of short +duration, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running out +of Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to the +westward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in the +afternoon anchored in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by the +North-West extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tall +mangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef, +past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On the +eastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small-craft harbour, +much frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-mud Bay. It may be +recognized by a little island lying off its mouth. + +Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coast +opposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on the +south side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, if +that strait was navigable, and also to examine the south-eastern side of +Melville Island. + +BIRD ISLAND. + +Finding the western shore of Cobourg Peninsula placed too far from Port +Essington on the chart, it was determined to commence the survey at +Popham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand and +dead coral lying in its centre, and bearing East 1/2 South 1/4 of a mile +from where we anchored in nine fathoms. We named this Bird Island, from +finding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The latitude of it +according to our observations was 11 degrees 15 1/2 minutes South and +longitude West of Port Essington 22 1/2 miles, being 4 1/2 less than is +given in Captain King's chart, the North-West extreme of the Peninsula +being there placed too far from Port Essington, and the North-East point, +Cape Croker, too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chiefly +in the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extremes +of the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two miles +in the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being the +greater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it a +fresh South-East wind. During the night the temperature was as low as 73 +degrees. + +July 25. + +On leaving at daylight we crossed over to examine the western shores of +Dundas Strait, formed by the eastern side of Melville Island; Captain +King having passed it in the night. As we stood close along it into the +gulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles North 40 degrees +East from Cape Keith, we passed over two patches of only three or four +fathoms; these we could not see from the general disturbed and +discoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh from South-East. We +found the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points, +separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is a +round hill 320 feet high, five miles North-West from Cape Keith. + +CLARENCE STRAIT. + +Passing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrance +point of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither a +reef nearly awash, about two miles in extent, bearing South 25 degrees +West fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and North 10 degrees East fourteen +miles from Cape Hotham. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22 +fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and +15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when we +reached our anchorage in nine fathoms, Cape Hotham bearing South 43 West, +two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which we +subsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles east +from the Cape. Here we found the tides set West by South and +East-North-East from half a knot to two knots, the westerly stream +beginning nearly three hours after high-water, a peculiarity generally +occurring in straits. + +July 26. + +After one of those soft and lovely evenings so common to this part of +Australia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised to +find that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very fresh +South-South-East wind with heavy masses of clouds; the breeze continued +until noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles down +the opening in the south side of the strait, and in the afternoon a party +went on shore near Cape Hotham. We found the country very poor and sandy, +and elevated about fifteen feet above high-water mark. Despite this, the +white gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abundance, about +thirty or forty feet high; there were also others of a different kind, +besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blended +together. In some places I noticed it had the same glazed and vitrified +appearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the North-West +coast. + +Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, a +kingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colour +of an English blackbird; others were seen and killed, but all common to +other parts; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-coloured +pigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back. + +NATIVE COMPANION. + +The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a large +bird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French grey +hue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape of +a bittern, commonly known among the colonists by the name of native +companion. It is difficult to imagine how this name could have +originated, as there is no instance of the natives making a pet of +anything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it is +probable, from its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this place +a few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the errors of the +chronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview, +disappearing when we landed. They made the same motions with their arms, +throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. The +few huts I fell in with, reminded me of one I had seen near the +North-West part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be found +in the portion of the work descriptive of that locality. + +Those on Cape Hotham, to enter more into particulars, did not exceed five +feet in height, nor were they so substantially built; they were, however, +well thatched with the same kind of coarse grass. The entrances were +carefully closed, except in one instance, when the aperture was so small +that it was with difficulty I could crawl in; when I had entered there +was nothing to gratify my curiosity. + +NATIVE CLOTHING. + +Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article of +clothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for which +reason I have been induced to give the woodcut of one.* It is a kind of +covering for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coarse grass. + +(*Footnote. I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in the +South-East part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering round +their waist, somewhat similar to the representation given.) + +Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty of +the inhabitants of this part of the country. + +The land near the huts was turned up in search of roots, and close by +were some large clubs. The thermometer fell in the night to 67 degrees, +producing the novel though pleasant sensation of cold. + +July 27. + +Although apparently we could trace the land, near the head of the opening +or bay, still the great set of tide in that direction, left hopes of its +being the mouth of a river. We have +already alluded to the difficulty of detecting the mouth of Australian +streams, and the doubts thus engendered occasioned the greater anxiety. + +Impatient to learn the truth, Mr. Fitzmaurice was despatched to examine +the head of the bay, whilst the ship was moved towards it, anchoring +again one mile North-West from a very remarkable patch of low red cliffs +(which from startling circumstances, hereafter to be related, were called +Escape Cliffs) and only two cables length distant from the coral ledge, +by which this and the shores around were fronted. + +VISIT THE SHORE. + +Here another party visited the shore, and those whose occupation did not +render their presence necessary near the water, strolled into the +country, penetrating about four or five miles inland, but they were +rewarded by the sight of no novelty, or even variety in the scenery, +beyond what was presented to our view on the visit to Cape Hotham, which +it will readily be allowed was little enough. Indeed it will in general +be found, that in Australia, a change of formation is necessary to +produce any of the scenery, which otherwise exhibits a most monotonous +sameness. + +A coarse kind of ironstone gravel was (if I may use the term) scattered +over the face of the country; some of it had a glazed appearance on the +surface, being hollow within, and about the size of a musket ball. +Properly speaking they are composed of a ferruginous sandstone, but they +have been already more fully alluded to when first met with at Point +Cunningham, near King's Sound, on the North-West coast. The general +formation is the same as at Cape Hotham, itself almost identical with the +rocks at Port Essington. A few traces of small kangaroos were seen; but +not a bird or any other living thing two miles from the beach. This +peculiarity the reader will remember was also noticed in the +neighbourhood of King's Sound. + +DISCOVERY OF ADELAIDE RIVER. + +On returning to the ship we found that Mr. Fitzmaurice had arrived, +bringing the expected, and very gratifying intelligence, that a large +river with two branches, running South-East and South, with a depth of +four fathoms, emptied itself into the head of the bay. The joy a +discovery of this nature imparts to the explorer, when examining a +country so proverbially destitute of rivers as Australia, is much more +easily imagined than described. It formed a species of oasis amid the +ordinary routine of surveying, rousing our energies, and giving universal +delight. The castle-builders were immediately at work, with expectations +beyond the pale of reason. + +EXPLORING PARTY. + +An exploring party, however, was at once formed, consisting of Captain +Wickham, Lieutenant Emery, and Mr. Helpman, who--the next day being +Sunday--did not leave before the morning of the 29th, with two boats and +four days' provisions. + +Many were the anxious and envious looks bestowed on the party as they +left the ship on the deeply interesting service of exploring the new +river. So strong and native is man's desire for the unknown, that his +feelings are never more tried than when on the brink of a discovery, +while those who are in presence of the novelty, and cannot enjoy the +satisfaction of tasting that pleasure, must ever experience somewhat +acute emotions of regret. + +There was no difficulty in finding a name for a river which fell into +Clarence Strait; it was at once, therefore, honoured with that of +Adelaide, after her most gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager. The bay that +receives its waters was called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Adam. The +remaining part of the south side of Clarence Strait, together with the +islands in the western entrance of it, gave ample, though not such +interesting employment as the exploration of the Adelaide, to those who +were left behind. Several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, +fish in Adam Bay being very scarce. + +NATIVE FAMILY. + +Near Escape Cliffs I met a small family of natives, consisting of an +elderly man, his wife, and four children; by degrees, advancing alone, I +contrived to get near enough to make the woman a present of a +handkerchief, in return for which she gave me a large leaf of the cabbage +palm, that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the family +around me, the eldest child, a youth of about 15, being the most timid. +He had a small piece of wood two feet long, sticking through the +cartilage of his nose. His teeth and those of the other children were +quite perfect, but in the father and mother two of the upper front ones +were gone, as we before noticed was the case with the natives at Port +Essington, where this ceremony is performed after marriage. The hair of +these people was neither curly nor straight, but what I have before +called crisp, being of that wavy nature sometimes noticed in Europeans. + +They had with them three small-sized dogs of a light brown colour, of +which they appeared very fond, and I could not induce them to part with +them. + +The old man's spear was not barbed, and the womera or throwing stick of +the same long narrow shape as at Port Essington. The woman had also the +same bottle-shaped basket slung over her neck, as before remarked, and +containing white and red earths for painting their bodies. + +CURIOSITY AND FEAR. + +These people exhibited more curiosity than I had before noticed in the +Aborigines, as I was able to induce them to visit the whaleboat that was +on shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size of the oars first +astonished them, and next the largeness of the boat itself. The +exclamations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on the +workmanship of his civilized brethren, were amusing; suddenly a loud +shout would burst from his lips, and then a low whistle. I watched the +rapid change of countenance in this wild savage with interest; all his +motions were full of matter for observation. The mixed curiosity and +dread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarm at this +first rencontre with a white man intruding in his native wilds, which he +must have experienced, added much to the zest of the scene. I, however, +at length almost persuaded the old man to accompany me on board; he even +put one foot in the boat for the purpose, when seeing the depth of the +interior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if from immersion in cold +water. He was now overwhelmed by the woman and elder child with +entreaties not to take such a rash step, and their rude eloquence +succeeded. + +It was amusing to see the struggle between fear and curiosity plainly +depicted in the man's face, as he stood with one foot on the boat, and +the other on the shore, hearkening but too credulously to the picture of +danger, forcibly drawn by his friends, while curiosity, with almost equal +strength, was urging him to dare the perils of the white man's boat. + +A desire to be better acquainted with the strangers who had come to the +shores of his native land in a large bird--such being their strange idea +of a ship, the sails forming the wings--no doubt materially influenced +him; but the eloquence of his relatives prevailed over all; and this +interesting interview terminated by our leaving the shore without our +sable friend, who, however, promised to visit the ship in an old bark +canoe, about 20 feet long, that was lying on the beach near at hand. This +promise was faithfully kept, for the same evening, a canoe was seen +paddling off, containing two young natives in addition to the old man. +They stopped at some distance from the ship, moving round to view her on +all sides. + +ATTEMPT TO ENTICE NATIVES ON BOARD. + +Fearing at last that their courage had failed, and that they would not +come on board, the dinghy, our smallest boat, was sent towards them, +there being only a boy besides myself in it. + +I had hoped that thus they would not be frightened, but they instantly +began to move towards the shore, and it required some manoeuvring to get +near them; succeeding at length, however, I found my acquaintance of the +morning anxious to go to the ship, a measure the other two did not at all +approve of, as they kept edging away towards the land, whilst I gave the +old man the presents I had brought him. At one time the dinghy got +between the canoe and the shore, when instantly a gleam of terror flashed +across the faces of the young men. One of them was a large square-headed +fellow of ferocious aspect, whose countenance was lit up by a look of +fierce revenge, as the canoe made towards the land, after I had ceased my +endeavours to entice them on board. + +Whatever these people may have imagined to be our motive in wishing them +to visit the ship, I little thought that my pressing them would have so +nearly led to fatal results. I shall proceed to explain this remark by +relating the startling circumstances from which Escape Cliffs received +their name. + +NARROW ESCAPE OF MR. FITZMAURICE. + +A few days after my interview in the dinghy with the natives, Mr. +Fitzmaurice went ashore to compare the compasses. From the quantity of +iron contained in the rocks, it was necessary to select a spot free from +their influence. A sandy beach at the foot of Escape Cliffs was +accordingly chosen. The observations had been commenced, and were about +half completed, when on the summit of the cliffs, which rose about twenty +feet above their heads, suddenly appeared a large party of natives with +poised and quivering spears, as if about immediately to deliver them. +Stamping on the ground, and shaking their heads to and fro, they threw +out their long shaggy locks in a circle, whilst their glaring eyes +flashed with fury as they champed and spit out the ends of their long +beards.* They were evidently in earnest, and bent on mischief. + +(*Footnote. A custom with Australian natives when in a state of violent +excitement.) + +DANCING FOR LIFE. + +It was, therefore, not a little surprising to behold this paroxysm of +rage evaporate before the happy presence of mind displayed by Mr. +Fitzmaurice, in immediately beginning to dance and shout, though in +momentary expectation of being pierced by a dozen spears. In this he was +imitated by Mr. Keys, who was assisting in the observations, and who at +the moment was a little distance off, and might have escaped. Without, +however, thinking of himself, he very nobly joined his companion in +amusing the natives; and they succeeded in diverting them from their +evident evil designs, until a boat landing in a bay near drew off their +attention. The foremost of this party was recognised to be the +ill-looking fellow, who left me in the canoe with a revengeful scowl upon +his face. + +Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys had firearms lying on the ground within +reach of their hands; the instant, however, they ceased dancing, and +attempted to touch them, a dozen spears were pointed at their breasts. +Their lives hung upon a thread, and their escape must be regarded as +truly wonderful, and only to be attributed to the happy readiness with +which they adapted themselves to the perils of their situation. This was +the last we saw of the natives in Adam Bay, and the meeting is likely to +be long remembered by some, and not without pleasant recollections; for +although, at the time, it was justly looked upon as a very serious +affair, it afterwards proved a great source of mirth. No one could recall +to mind, without laughing, the ludicrous figure necessarily cut by our +shipmates, when to amuse the natives, they figured on the light fantastic +toe; and the readers, who look at the plate representing this really +serious affair,* will behold two men literally dancing for their lives. + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +RETURN OF THE BOATS. + +August 2. + +This morning the boats returned; they had gone up the Adelaide in a +general southerly direction, nearly 80 miles: the windings of the river, +which were very great in some places, forming the shape of the letter S. +It became at this distance very narrow, and was divided into two +branches, one taking a southerly direction, the other an easterly; the +latter was too narrow for the boat's oars, while the former was blocked +up by fallen trees lying across it. As in addition to the difficulties +just mentioned, only one day's provision remained in the boats, the +further exploration of the Adelaide was necessarily, though reluctantly, +abandoned. + +BANKS OF THE ADELAIDE. + +For thirty miles of the upper part of the river the water was fresh; +while the banks, excepting near the point of separation, were low, being +not more than five feet above the present level of the river, a +circumstance very favourable for irrigation, and the cultivation of rice. +Fifteen miles from the mouth they were fringed by the growth of +mangroves; and higher up many of the points were thickly wooded, while on +either side stretched a vast extent of prairie country, dotted here and +there with islands of timber, which served to break the native monotony +of the scene. Somewhat less than halfway up, rose on both banks a thick +jungle of bamboo, which, in places where the water was always fresh, +attained the gigantic height of from 60 to 80 feet. Between 20 and 70 +miles from the mouth the soil is a good light-coloured mould; above this, +commencing where the bank of the river is marked by a coarse red gritty +sandstone projection, the aspect of the country changes from that of low +plains to a slightly wooded and gently undulating surface, in some places +stony. This character continued to the furthest point reached in the +boats, in latitude 12 degrees 57 minutes South, and longitude 131 degrees +19 minutes East. + +When they had penetrated thus far into the new lands of Australia, the +explorers returned, having experienced those sensations of delightful +excitement, to which we have before alluded, and which naturally called +forth strong emotions of regret in those who were denied a participation +in the feverish enjoyment of discovery. + +From the highest tree at Captain Wickham's furthest point, the appearance +of the country was, as far as the eye could reach, one wearisome level, +broken to the southward, at a distance of ten miles, by a rocky mound +about 150 feet high. + +UPPER PART OF THE RIVER. + +The river, which for some distance had not been fifty yards wide, with a +rocky bed in places, and banks from six to twenty feet high, was subject +at this point to a tidal change of level of about three feet, but there +was no perceptible stream, and the water which a few miles lower down had +been muddy, was here quite clear. Small bamboos and other drift were +observed in the branches of the trees eight or ten feet above the water, +showing the height which the river attains at some seasons of the year. +By the hollows on many of the plains, water appeared to have lain some +time, and doubtless parts of this low land were periodically overflowed. + +On the point dividing the upper branches of the river some coarse sand +was washed up, which on examination was found to be of a granitic +character, clearly showing the primary formation of the country through +which the Adelaide flowed. The only rocks noticed in the parts traversed +by the boats were, as I have before said, of red porous sandstone. The +smoke of several large fires was observed up the country, but none of the +natives were seen. + +MONKEY-BIRDS. + +Towards the upper part of the river they noticed a strange bird, very +much like a guineafowl in size and manner of running along the ground. +The colour was speckled white and brown. This, doubtless, from Mr. +Bynoe's description of one he wounded on the coast in the neighbourhood +of the Adelaide, must have been the Leipoa ocellata of Gould, one of the +mound or tumuli-building birds, first seen in Western Australia by Mr. +George Moore, and afterwards on the North-west coast, and in South +Australia by Captain Grey. Although known to range over a large expanse +of the continent, this was the first time it was discovered in Northern +Australia. + +In the reaches where the bamboo grew, flights of large vampires +(resembling the Pteropus rubricollis of Geoff.) were met with: they kept +continually flying to and fro close over the boats as they passed up, +making a screeching disagreeable noise, which, however, was far less +unpleasant than the mildewy odour with which they filled the air, calling +to mind the exclamation placed by our immortal bard in the mouth of +Trinculo. The heavy flap of the leathern wings of these monkey-birds, as +the men called them, was singular, while sometimes a flight would darken +the verdure of a bamboo, which, yielding to their weight, bent low, as if +before a passing gust of wind. To fix themselves appeared always a +difficult, and was certainly a noisy operation, each apparently striving +to alight upon the same spot. They first cling to the bamboo by means of +the long claw, or hook attached to the outer edge of the wing, and then +gradually settle themselves. + +The river swarmed with alligators. Fish also abounded; and in the salt +water, a kind commonly known in the river Plate by the name of Cat-fish, +is plentiful. One that we caught was of the enormous weight of twenty +pounds. A large kind of dark bream of excellent flavour was taken in +fresh water. + +WOOD-DUCKS. + +Many of the reaches also swarmed with wildfowl, consisting almost wholly +of ducks, which, from a habit of perching on the trees, have received the +name of wood-ducks. They were very different and far superior in plumage +to those found on the south-eastern parts of the continent, and as they +have not yet been numbered among the Australian birds so vividly +described by Mr. Gould, we may venture to be somewhat minute in +describing them. + +They are inferior in size to the common European wild duck, but are +marked in much the same manner on the breast. The back is a dark brown, +while the wings, still darker, are slightly bronzed at the tips. Their +singularly long legs are of a pale flesh colour, while the web on the +foot is very much arched near the toes, giving greater pliability to the +foot and a power of grasping, which enables them to perch on trees. The +head and bill, the latter of a pale ash colour, are both large. When on +the wing they make a peculiar though pleasing whistling sound, that can +be heard at a great distance,* and which changes as they alight, into a +sort of chatter. Their perching on trees is performed in a very clumsy +manner, swinging and pitching to and fro. We subsequently often found +them on the rivers on the North coast, but not within some miles of their +mouths or near their upper waters, from which it would appear that they +inhabit certain reaches of the rivers only: we never found them in +swamps. The farthest south they were afterwards met with, was on the +Albert River in the Gulf of Carpentaria, in latitude 18 degrees South, +which gives them a range of six and a half degrees of latitude over the +northern part of the continent. Their nests never came under our notice, +and consequently we are not aware either of the size or colour of their +eggs; neither did we see any young birds during the period of our +observation, ranging from July to November only.** + +(*Footnote. Mr. Eyre has since informed me that there is a +whistling-duck, something similar, on the Murray River, but is not aware +that it has the peculiar habit of perching on trees.) + +(**Footnote. Mr. Gould, who had previously described this bird +(Leptotarais Eytoni) being desirous of figuring it in his splendid work, +has been furnished with this account.) + +EXPLORATION OF THE SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE ADELAIDE. + +August 4. + +The southern arm of the Adelaide River, and about fifteen miles near the +mouth of the other branch, still remaining to be explored, I started on +this interesting service the day of the return of Captain Wickham, August +4th. We soon found that the one we ascended promised nothing, from there +being no tidal stream of any consequence; still we hoped to trace its +rejunction with the main branch, but after proceeding in a general South +by West direction five miles, and East-South-East the same distance, it +became so narrow that the mangroves on each side entirely blocked up the +passage, and stopped the boat's progress. I here again felt the +inconvenience of our not being furnished with one of the pendulum +horizons, invented by Captain Becher, R.N.* It being high-water, and as +the shore was lined with an impenetrable growth of mangroves, we were +unable to land. In vain did I try, by cutting down some of them, to find +a rest for the artificial horizon on one of the stumps; they were so +connected with each other beneath the water, by a perfect network of +roots, that although several of the surrounding trees were felled, a +tremulous motion was still conveyed from a distance, and I consequently +lost the observation for latitude. + +(*Footnote. I strongly recommend this ingenious invention to every +seaman. In foggy weather it will save hours of anxiety, and may often +prevent the horrors of shipwreck.) + +The saltwater arm of the Adelaide we found had another branch, which took +us eight miles in a South-West direction, terminating like the other, and +at low-water being a mere ditch. There was nothing picturesque in +following the windings of these creeks or inlets; a tall growth of +mangroves with their stems immersed, rendering the view limited and +wearisome. We, however, were urged on by hope, being in momentary +expectation that each turn would bring some change, while to add to the +zest of our proceedings we felt ourselves to be the first Europeans who +had traversed these parts. + +Now and then the deep stillness of nature would be broken by the mournful +cry of a curlew, disturbed by the splash of the oars, while sometimes a +heavy flapping of wings was heard amid the mangroves, and out would start +suddenly three or four white ibises with black necks, giving utterance to +a peculiar cry, which faintly resembles that of the male guinea fowl. All +else was deep unbroken silence. + +By evening we had again reached the entrance of the river, where we +passed the night, during which there was a very heavy dew. + +August 5. + +The lower part of the Adelaide having been already explored, prevented us +from experiencing that depth of interest which we should otherwise have +felt; still we were destined to enjoy our share of pleasurable +sensations, as on the result of our examination depended the important +fact of whether the river was navigable for large vessels. We therefore +started to settle this momentous question, even before the eastern sky +was tinted with orange from the rising of the sun, which in these +latitudes gives no glimmering twilight: day fading and appearing +instantaneously, the rapidity of the change presenting a remarkable +effect. + +EXTENSIVE REACHES. + +Passing a narrow part, formed by two low red cliffy projections, we +entered a wide reach that had an extensive flat of 2 and 2 1/2 fathoms +water on the south side. The next was similarly circumstanced, the shoal +water of the same depth, being, however, on the west side. Still in both +there was a 3-fathom channel at low-water, and in the reaches above, +seven in number, trending in a general South-South-East direction, about +twice that depth. This imparted to our discoveries the stamp of utility, +and as Captain Wickham found it navigable for thirty miles higher up +where the water is fresh, we may pronounce the Adelaide the deepest river +in Australia. + +MEET A CANOE. + +Proceeding upwards, we met a party of natives about seven miles from the +mouth, in a very pretty bark canoe, fifteen feet long, and about two +deep. The bark was sewn together with much neatness, and it was +altogether the most artistic piece of workmanship I had seen among the +Aborigines of Australia. It was the last of that description we met with +in this direction, for we did not find canoes in use with the natives to +the westward of Clarence Strait, but only rafts, a fact alluded to in an +earlier portion of the work. + +ALARM OF THE NATIVES. + +Two young men only were in the craft, which ran close in under the +mangroves, through which we could see other natives passing. By +proceeding cautiously and slowly, I got pretty close to them. They were +evidently afraid that if they left it we should take their boat, and this +gave them courage to face the strange white men. Terror, however, was +marked in their countenances, and one of the two leaped on shore, as we +approached, in a state of great excitement, jumping and flinging his arms +about violently; whilst sometimes he would dip up a handful of water and +squirt it out with great force from the corners of his mouth. The size of +the boat appeared, as usual, to astonish the lad who remained in the +canoe. He appeared less frightened than the other, and I induced him to +accept a few presents from the end of a long stick. Though they had a +deficiency in the upper front teeth, they had not disfigured any other +part of their bodies. The stature of the two young men was small, perhaps +5 feet 7 inches, but those behind the mangroves were much taller. +Alligators being so very numerous I was surprised to notice what little +dread the natives appeared to have of them, dancing and wading about in +the water near the bank, as if they and the animal had entered into a +treaty of amity. + +Their alarm appearing to have worn off, we continued our journey, but by +hoisting the sail, the good effect was in a great measure +counterbalanced, as the sight of it called forth a yell from the whole of +them, which catching the echoes, reverberated from side to side, and +resounded in our ears for some time afterwards. Proceeding, we gained the +end of the twelfth reach early in the afternoon, when we obtained +observations for longitude, that being the highest part of the river not +surveyed, and distant about fifteen miles from the mouth; we had also +just reached the portion frequented by the peculiar whistling wild duck, +of which we bagged about twenty, forming an agreeable addition to our +evening and next day meals. After concluding the observations, we +examined the country for some distance; a level tract met the eye +wherever it wandered, broken here and there by patches of low trees. The +plains were thinly dotted with a coarse wiry grass. In places near +hollows, where water had collected, the soil, which was a dark kind of +clayey mould, cracked and curled up with the heat. A few shells were +found scattered over the plains, of the kind so common on the north-east +coast (Helix). + +The tedious uniformity and sameness in the banks of the Adelaide, thus +far, may be illustrated by the fact, that to know the boat's position on +returning, it was necessary to have the sketch of the river constantly +before our eyes, and to reckon each reach as we passed. + +ALLIGATORS. + +Taking the return tide, we passed the night in the fourth reach; very +stringent orders were given to the watch to keep a sharp lookout for +alligators, as a great many had been seen during the day, while we knew +that on the previous night a monster of this description had attempted to +get into one of the boats. We had fired at several, but with one +exception had done no mischief. To be roused by the noise of the boat's +keel or side grating harshly against the scaly back of an alligator, is +far from being a pleasant occurrence, and on such occasions I generally +found myself clutching a pistol, always kept near me, for the purpose of +executing judgment upon the very first flat head that showed his nose +above the gunwale. Entertaining very vivid recollections of our +experience on Fitzroy River, on the first start of the boats great +preparations were made against the mosquitoes; to our agreeable surprise, +however, we experienced but slight annoyance from them. The exemption, +however, was fully made up by the swarms of flies which infest the +Adelaide, and during mealtimes availed themselves of the opportunity of +popping into our mouths. + +There had been a fresh North-East wind the latter part of the day, which +dying away was succeeded by a calm and cloudless night with a heavy dew. +The thermometer was down to 77 degrees, and in the day varied from 87 to +92. + +RETURN OF THE BOATS. + +August 6. + +We got on board in the forenoon, when the result of our examination was +heard with a satisfaction not easily expressed, but which may be readily +imagined. We felt that we had discovered a river navigable for vessels of +four and five hundred tons, for about fifty miles, and into fresh water, +a thing hitherto unknown in Australia. We may then with justice +congratulate ourselves on the importance of the discovery of the +Adelaide. + +ADAM BAY. + +The bay into which it flows, named after Sir Charles Adam, is six miles +deep and ten broad at the entrance, where there are 9 fathoms. The shores +gradually approach each other, and at the head, where it receives the +waters of the Adelaide, the width is only one mile. + +The mouth of the river is fronted with shoals that extend out five miles; +the channel between them is narrow, 3 and 4 fathoms deep, and lies on the +western side of the bay. A guide for the mouth of it is the east entrance +point of the river, bearing South 40 degrees East. + +The generally discoloured state of the water prevents the shoals from +being seen, as well as the coral reefs extending from half to three +quarters of a mile off the east side of the bay, where there is excellent +anchorage. Sea and land breezes prevailed; the former blowing from the +North-West which gave it the advantage of being of easy access either +from the westward through Clarence Strait, or from the eastward through +that of Dundas. The spring tides sometimes rise 18 feet, when the time of +high-water is six o'clock. The stream set North-East and North-West from +half to one knot, changing to the latter direction two and a half hours +after high-water. Our observations place Escape Cliffs (too remarkable +and conspicuous to be overlooked, and which ships should anchor abreast +of) in latitude 12 degrees 8 1/2 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 15 +minutes West of Port Essington. The variation of the compass was 2 +degrees easterly. I was able at this anchorage, by a bearing of a distant +point, to ascertain the local attraction in the ship, which in no +instance exceeded 1 degree, being the amount we had found at Plymouth, +previous to our departure from England. Our deeply interesting researches +on the south side of Clarence Strait, leading to so important a +discovery, were now concluded. + +EXAMINE MELVILLE ISLAND. + +The success which had rewarded our efforts, made us wish to cling to the +spot, and it was therefore almost with regret that we found ourselves +leaving to examine the southern shores of Melville Island, where we +anchored two miles from the beach, and fifteen within the west entrance +of the strait. A quarter of a mile off the sandy flat, extending some +distance from the shore, there was one fathom of water, being a very +gradual decrease from six where the ship lay. + +The necessary angles and bearings for the survey, were taken from the top +of some cliffs sixty feet high, composed of a red sand and ironstone, and +a white kind of marl or pipe clay. The shore trended nearly South-West +and North-East. Six miles in the former direction is an inlet which Mr. +Fitzmaurice has visited from the Vernon Isles, and another much smaller, +about a third of the intervening distance from where we stood. The high +land which was almost level, lay about three miles in our rear, following +the trend of the shore. Two peaks rising in hollows on it attained an +elevation of 260 and 290 feet. There were no rocky points visible at +low-water--a clean sandy beach, which appeared, strange to say, to have +been washed occasionally by a heavy surf, forming the coastline. A +singular clump of Casuarina was close to the westward of the cliffs, and +its dark naked aspect contrasted with the stunted gumtrees and scattered +palms, sparingly sprinkled over this sterile tract of country. With the +exception of a few seabirds, there was nothing living stirring to change +the opinion we have just expressed of this part of Melville Island. Our +visit, however, was not to be forgotten in an instant, although no very +pleasing recollections were connected with it. + +GREEN ANTS. + +Whilst taking a few angles near the cliffs, we suddenly experienced a +series of severe bites or nippings in several parts of our body, and +looking round to discover whence arose this unexpected attack, found +ourselves under a tree covered with large green ants. Their bites were +exceedingly painful, and it was only by beating and tearing off our +clothes that we could rid ourselves of these unwelcome visitors. From a +distance our appearance must have been sufficiently amusing. One moment +soberly intent upon our duties, and the next jumping like madmen, and +hastily stripping off our garments. The name of Ant Cliffs records our +visit to the south shores of Melville Island. The tide on this side of +the strait ran nearly two knots an hour, following the direction of the +shore; the time of high-water being a quarter of an hour earlier than in +Adam Bay. + +August 15. + +Recrossed Clarence Strait to obtain observations for rating the +chronometers, and examine the extensive shoal off Cape Hotham. On +anchoring near its edge, a patch with only five feet was discovered close +to the ship; the muddy and restless state of the water, caused by a +meeting of the tides, setting out of Van Diemen's Gulf and Adam Bay, +renders it necessary to approach Cape Hotham from the northward, with +caution. However, the unusually great depth, for this strait, of twenty +fathoms, will give warning of a ship's proximity to this danger, the +limits of which have been given on the occasion of our first visit to +Cape Hotham. + +WANT OF WATER. + +Our stock of water being now much reduced, it was necessary before +proceeding further, that we should procure a supply. As it was a matter +of no certainty that we should find sufficient on the coast to the +westward, it was at first suggested that we should take the ship up the +Adelaide and fill the tanks from alongside. This would have been a grand +feat, having never before been accomplished in any river in Australia. +Indeed it was the only one on the whole continent, which could carry up a +vessel of the Beagle's draught into fresh water. An idea, the realization +of which would so completely crown our exploration with success, +naturally gave rise to a great degree of enthusiasm and excitement. Soon, +however, more sober thoughts prevailed, when we reflected on the time +this proceeding would consume, on account of the tortuous* course of the +river: time which we could, with our scanty stock of provisions, ill +spare. At Port Essington it was possible we should be able to get a +supply of both, as a ship might have arrived during our absence. Moreover +it was highly important, that we should make known without delay, the +discovery of a river of such magnitude as the Adelaide, distant only +seventy miles from the settlement. + +(*Footnote. Nothing shows the flat nature of a country more than the +tortuous course of a stream passing through it. It is a want of change in +the level, which causes a river to twist and wind about in search, as it +were, of the weakest spot for its exit.) + +RETURN TOWARDS PORT ESSINGTON. + +It was then finally resolved that we should return to Port Essington, and +in the forenoon of the 17th, the Beagle was drifting along the western +shore of Dundas Strait, out of Van Diemen's Gulf. The day happening, very +remarkably for the locality at this season, to be calm throughout, the +anchor was dropped at sunset in 22 fathoms; Cape Fleming the North-East +point of Melville Island, bearing North-West 1/2 West eight miles. A deep +sandy bay bore South-West five miles, which promised good anchorage. The +appearance of the north-east part of Melville Island was still very +triste, presenting to the eye nothing save patches of mangroves, behind +which rose a range of ill-defined hills, 300 feet in elevation. + +(*Footnote. The tide out of Van Diemen's Gulf takes a North-West +direction, until coming in contact with Cape Keith, it branches off along +the east and south side of Melville Island.) + +We anchored to prevent being taken back through Dundas Strait by the +return tide, which from 5 P.M., to midnight, set South-East by South from +two to three knots an hour. High-water at Popham Bay on the east side of +the Strait being at a quarter past eleven, we may conclude the North-West +stream began at this anchorage three quarters of an hour after +high-water. Weighing as soon as the tide made out of the strait, although +there was still no wind, we were rather surprised at daylight to find how +little the ship had drifted to the North-North-West. The only reason I +can give in explanation is that the ebb or North-West stream out of the +gulf joins with, and is thrown out of its course by the easterly or ebb +stream setting past Cape Fleming. + +ARRIVAL AT THE PORT. + +A breeze springing up late in the morning, we beat along the north side +of the Cobourg Peninsula, entering Port Essington at dusk. In working +round Vashon Head, we found the water shoal very rapidly to 12, 9, and 7 +fathoms on approaching it; on the bearing South 30 degrees West. This +head is fronted by a reef of some extent, which similar to the other at +the entrance of Port Essington, cannot be distinguished, owing to the +muddy colour of the water; it is therefore necessary that the lead should +be kept constantly going when in its vicinity. When daylight broke, we +found no fresh arrival to greet our anxious gaze, the Britomart being +still the only guardian of the port. Her solitary aspect at once +destroyed our hopes of supplies, and on reaching the settlement our fears +proved to have too much foundation. Hope, however, is the last feeling +which leaves the human breast, and in this instance did not desert us; as +there was still a chance of a vessel arriving, while we were engaged in +watering the ship. + +VICTORIA THEATRE. + +The news of our discovery of the Adelaide was hailed with infinite +satisfaction, and the numerous speculations and ideas on the subject +which were at once afloat, afforded an agreeable variety to the monotony +of existence in the settlement, where however at the moment of our +arrival an unusual degree of excitement prevailed through the activity of +Captain Stanley. + +THEATRICAL AMUSEMENTS. + +Ever anxious to provide for the amusement of others, he had been for some +time engaged in getting up a play, which was now nearly ready to be +performed. Its name I regret to have forgotten; it was however nothing +very deep, and was selected from a volume that had already performed a +voyage to the North Pole. This adventurous playbook, which had certainly +done its duty, was originally picked up by its owner on Tower-hill. The +scenery was painted by Captain Stanley with earths of the country, who +also was stage manager and general planner of the whole. The wives of +some of the garrison supplied female costumes, while a large workshop was +converted into a theatre. At length, after the difficulties usually +attendant on private theatricals, everything was in readiness for the +first performance of the drama in Northern Australia. Tickets were +issued, of which I have one before me, a small piece of card containing +the words "Victoria Theatre, Port Essington, August 24th, 1839." In after +years this will be looked upon as a curious relic in connection with the +history of this part of the continent. As if to cause the first +performance of a play at Victoria, to take place under smiling auspices, +such as the occasion properly called for, H.M.S. Pelorus arrived with +supplies and letters from Sydney. The previous growing dearth of +provisions had rendered it somewhat difficult to secure a very happily +disposed audience, an empty stomach being apt to provoke fault finding: +but the arrival of a ship on the very play day caused a crowded and +delighted attendance. Everything went off smoothly, and with hearty peals +of laughter. All the characters being supported by men, the female +personages of the drama presented a most grotesque appearance; moreover +the act drop being an old ensign, the ladies could be seen through it, +regaling themselves, during these intervals, with a pipe. The whole +affair gave infinite satisfaction, while ours was greatly enhanced, and +our minds prepared for any duty, by the timely arrival of supplies and +letters, of both of which we fortunately received our share. + +Our departure from Port Essington, was not therefore hurried; and I had +some slight opportunity of adding to my knowledge, with regard to the +capabilities of the place, which were found to grow upon acquaintance. +The fact of its being well fitted for the growth of cotton was in +particular a great additional recommendation. The sallow appearance of +the settlers clearly demonstrated the temperature to be high, though +apparently there was no diminution in physical strength. It should +however be remembered that up to this time they had not had the same +nourishment as those who appeared amongst them as transient visitors, +with ruddy faces. The warmth of the climate in itself conduces to +intemperance, which to Europeans is ever fatal. + +The Pelorus brought orders for the Britomart to proceed to Sydney. + +PASSAGE THROUGH TORRES STRAIT. + +Captain Stanley was anxious--with the westerly monsoon--to have attempted +the passage through Torres Strait, instead of going round the west coast, +as such a course might have led to some discoveries in that +neighbourhood; a result always in such a service of the utmost +importance. + +It is however to be regretted that the senior officer did not approve of +this plan, as the passage has only once been made from the westward by +Captain Lihou, R.N., who having experienced some difficulties reported +unfavourably of it. The importance of an intimate acquaintance with this +route will be better appreciated, when we reflect that ultimately through +this passage will the great traffic be carried on between our East Indian +and Australian possessions. + +During our visit to Port Essington, some of the changes among our +officers, mentioned in the beginning of the work, took place. Mr. Forsyth +joined us from the Pelorus, and, from his knowledge of surveying, was a +valuable addition to our party. + +SKETCH OF VICTORIA. + +Having said so much in relation to Port Essington on our former visit, +and wishing to create among our readers an interest in the locality, we +give a slight sketch of the appearance of the settlement from the +anchorage, which will be more effective than our most elaborate +description of it. + +EVIL EXAMPLE OF CONVICTS. + +Before taking leave of this new colony, we must at once express a hope +that it will not be made a Penal settlement; not that we doubt the +wonderful degree in which the convict system has hastened the prosperity +of our possessions on the south-eastern part of the continent; but from +the proximity of northern Australia to the islands in the Arafura +sea--the waters separating them being often navigable for boats--the +natives would be contaminated and vitiated, their women corrupted, and +the badly disposed among the islanders rendered worse; and instead of our +advent bringing with it the light of the gospel, and the real and +substantial blessings of civilization, we should enjoy the unenviable +privilege of still further degenerating the savage. The evil thus caused +in New Zealand has been incalculable; to the bad example of convicts we +owe much of the ills which have there arisen; the fine fearless bearing +of the wild man, has been partially exchanged for the low cunning, +acquired from the runaway felon; who reckless of his own life can have no +regard for that of others. The worst crimes of the dregs of a civilized +population have been introduced; and many of those wretched beings, who +might otherwise have been reclaimed from the rude vices of savage life, +have, through the white man's instrumentality, perished in sin.* + +(*Footnote. I knew an instance of a convict, who when dying actually +picked a man's pocket. The ruling passion, strong in death, was here +painfully exemplified. J.L.S.) + +The number of Malay proas that visit this part of the continent, would +also furnish facilities for the escape of convicts from the neighbourhood +of Port Essington. + +We shall now fulfil our promise to the reader, of laying before him +Captain Stanley's interesting cruise to the islands we have just alluded +to, which will occupy the remaining portion of the present volume. + + + +CHAPTER 1.12. + +Leave Port Essington. +Reach Timor Laut. +Meet Proas. +Chief Lomba. +Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton. +Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island. +Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors. +Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew. +Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut. +Description of the Inhabitants. +Dress. +Leprosy. +Canoes. +Village of Oliliet. +Curious Houses. +Remarkable Ornaments. +Visit the Oran Kaya. +Burial Islet. +Supplies obtained. +Gunpowder in request as Barter. +Proceed to the Arru Islands. +Dobbo Harbour. +Trade. +Present to Chief. +Birds of Paradise. +Chinaming Junks' bottoms. +Character of Natives. +Some of them profess Christianity. +Visit the Ki Islands. +Village of Ki Illi. +How protected. +Place of Worship. +Pottery. +Timber. +Boat-building. +Cultivation of the eastern Ki. +No anchorage off it. +Visit Ki Doulan. +Antique Appearance of. +Luxuriant Vegetation. +Employment of Natives. +Defences of the place. +Carvings on gateway. +Civility of Chief. +His Dress. +Population of the Ki Group. +Their Religion. +Trade. +Place of Interment. +Agility of Australian Native. +Supplies. +Anchorage off Ki Doulan. +Island of Vordate. +Visit from Chief. +Excitement of Natives. +Their Arms and Ornaments. +Carved Horns on Houses. +Alarm of the Oran Kaya. +Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch. +Revisit Oliliet. +Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy. +Return to Port Essington. +Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut. + +In pursuance of orders from Sir G. Bremer, C.B. we sailed from Port +Essington on the 18th March, 1839, having on board, Captain Kuper (then +1st Lieutenant of H.M.S. Alligator) and one of the Australian natives, +who was induced to accompany us, partly by his own curiosity, and partly +by liberal promises and plenty to eat. He was known at the settlement by +the name of Jack White, and from his great good humour and intelligence, +was a favourite with everyone. I hoped by keeping him on board for some +time, away from his tribe, to wean him in some degree from his savage +habits; and that by being able to communicate with him with greater +facility, we might learn more of the manners and customs of his +countrymen, than we had yet been able to do; in addition to which we +anticipated no small amusement from witnessing his astonishment at seeing +countries and people so different from his own. + +Light airs prevented our clearing the harbour till the morning of the +19th, and at 3 P.M. on the 20th, we made the land of Timor Laut; but from +our ignorance of the coast, we were obliged to keep under easy sail +during the night, which was squally with heavy rain. + +TIMOR LAUT PROAS. + +At daylight on the 21st, we made all sail to the northward, and about 10, +observed two large proas, with Dutch colours flying, standing out from +the land under sail; they were full of men, and for some time appeared to +be in great doubt, whether they should come near us or not, as they +shortened sail and consulted together several times; at last, however, +they came under our stern, which was the only way in which they could +approach, as their long outriggers, projecting 10 or 12 feet on each side +of their narrow canoes, prevented them from coming close alongside. + +As soon as they got hold of the rope we gave them, they hauled close up, +and a little thin shrivelled old man came scrambling over the taffrail: +he was dressed in a long black serge coat, check shirt, and black +trousers, and as soon as he had regained his breath, after the violent +exertions he had made, presented me with a neat little basket containing +some papers which he seemed very anxious I should examine. I took them +up, rather to please him, than with any expectation of being able to +understand them, but to my surprise and great interest, found carefully +rolled up in several envelopes, two pieces of lead pencil, part of the +leaf of a Norie's Navigation Tables, and some scraps of paper, on which, +written in pencil, was a rough journal of the proceedings of the men who +left the ill-fated Charles Eaton (soon after she was wrecked in Torres +Strait) in one of her cutters, in which they reached this island, and +after remaining for thirteen months got to Amboyna in a trading proa, and +thence to Batavia, where they gave the following account of their +misfortunes to the Resident, Mr. D.W. Pietermaat. + +WRECK OF THE CHARLES EATON. + +The Charles Eaton sailed from Sydney on the 26th July, 1834, and on the +15th of August, about 10 o'clock in the forenoon, during a fresh full +sail breeze, the vessel struck on a reef called the Detached Reef, +situated at the entrance of Torres Strait. + +PROCEEDINGS OF THE CREW. + +During the preceding night the Captain, as a measure of prudence, had +ordered the first reef to be taken in the topsails, in order not to enter +the passage before daylight. + +The ship struck on the reef so violently, that both keel and rudder were +instantly knocked off and carried away, and the Captain declared the +vessel to be totally lost; at the same time giving orders to get the +boats ready and furnished with provisions, in order to endeavour to reach +the island of Timor. + +At the time the vessel was wrecked, she had four boats, the longboat, two +cutters, and a dinghy or small jolly boat. In the largest cutter, W. +Grindall, Laurent Constantine, and George Pigot, left the wreck, and +Richard Quin, and James Wright, joined them the next morning by swimming +across a bar or reef at the risk of their lives. + +The other boats were knocked to pieces and lost, by the vessel falling +over on her side, and they were unable to save any more of the passengers +or crew, as it was impossible to pull the boat up against the strong +current; and none of them would venture amidst the heavy breakers to +reach the boat by swimming. They were unable to state what became of the +Captain, passengers, and rest of the crew; but at the time Richard Quin +and James Wright left the wreck, all the passengers and crew were alive +on the forecastle of the vessel, with the exception of one sailor named +James Price, who was drowned by the smallest of the cutters swamping at +the time she was lowered. + +The passengers on board at the time the vessel was wrecked, were Captain +D'Oyly of the Bengal Artillery, his wife, and two sons, George and +William; an English gentleman named Armstrong; and a Bengalese native +servant. + +NAMES OF THE CREW. + +The ship's crew consisted of twenty-four persons: J.G. Moore, master; J. +Clare, chief mate; W. Mayer, second mate; G. Pigott, third mate; J. +Grant, surgeon; L. Constantine, carpenter; W. Montgomery, steward; W. +Perry, J.P. Ching, midshipmen; R. Quin, A. Quail, W. Moore, C. Robinson, +J. Caen, W. Hill, J. Berry, R. Lounce, W. Jeffrey, J. Wright, W. Gumble, +J. Miller, and W. Williams, seamen; J. Ireland and J. Sexton, boys. + +The five seamen in the cutter, not seeing any possibility of saving more +of the ship's company, and the next morning not perceiving a single +person on the wreck, concluded that these unhappy persons had been washed +off by the increasing swell of the sea during the night. On Sunday +morning, August 17th, they left the wreck, and steered as westerly a +course as possible by the sun and stars--they had no compass--in order to +reach the Dutch settlement of Coupang in the island of Timor. The whole +of their provisions consisted of 30 pounds of bread, one ham, and a keg +containing about four gallons of water; which had been placed in the boat +before she was lowered. + +THE CUTTER REACHES TIMOR LAUT. + +After driving about for fifteen days on the ocean, they descried land +which they took to be Timor; they went on shore and procured some water +and coconuts; but afterwards pursuing their course along the coast, they +were attacked by a number of native proas, and being warn out with +fatigue, and without any arms to defend themselves, they were forced to +surrender. The natives upset the boat, and stripped them of all their +clothes, after which they were brought on shore, where the natives at +first seemed inclined to kill them, but through the intercession of two +chiefs, named Pabok and Lomba, their lives were spared. + +They afterwards learnt, that they were at the native village of Oliliet, +in the island of Timor Laut; part of their clothes were given back to +them, and they were well treated, without being compelled by the natives +to perform any labour; their sustenance consisted of Indian corn, yams, a +little rice and some fish, but the quantities given them were only just +sufficient to keep them alive. + +During their abode in this island, they learnt that in one of the +neighbouring settlements called Laouran, at that period at war with the +one in which they lived, there was another European, formerly belonging +to an English brig, that had been wrecked seven years ago, and of whose +crew he, and a boy since dead, had alone been spared by their savage +captors. + +After remaining more than thirteen months at Oliliet, a trading proa +arrived from Amboyna, in which they received permission to depart, +promising to return soon in an English ship, with arms and ammunition to +assist the chiefs in defeating their enemies. In this proa, after a +passage of five days, they arrived at Amboyna, on the 7th of October, +1835. + +IRELAND'S ACCOUNT OF THE FATE OF THE CREW. + +Of the melancholy fate of those who remained on the wreck, the boy +Ireland gave the following account, which was published at Sydney by +Captain P.P. King, R.N. Ireland and the younger D'Oyly, were rescued from +the savages by Captain C.M. Lewis, of the Colonial schooner, Isabella, +who was sent to look for them in consequence of Captain Carr of the ship +Mangles* having reported that he had seen two white persons among the +natives of Murray's Island, but had been unable to induce the natives to +give them up. + +(*Footnote. I afterwards met Captain Carr in the Mangles; he expressed +great regret that so much blame should have been attached to him for not +bringing away the children. His account differed very much from young +Ireland's, and it is but justice to him to state that it was owing to his +report that the vessels were sent in search of Ireland and young D'Oyly. +J.L.S.) + +The Charles Eaton left Sydney on the 29th of July, 1834, bound to Canton, +by way of Torres Strait; and experienced a series of fine weather and +favourable winds until she approached the Barrier Reef, when the weather +became thick and rainy. + +The master was provided with Captain Ashmore's chart, guided by which he +boldly steered for the reefs. Unfortunately, however, for him the weather +was so clouded on approaching the Barriers, that he could obtain no +observation for the latitude, and yet it would appear that the ship was +in a very favourable position. + +About ten o'clock in the morning the reefs were suddenly perceived right +ahead, upon which the ship was hove up in the wind and both anchors let +go, and the cables paid out to the end; but as the depth was probably +unfathomable they had no effect, for she drifted on the reef and fell +over on her beam ends. The chief mate then cut her masts away, but the +bottom was soon bilged, and everything destroyed by the water, which +broke over the decks, and the ship became a perfect wreck. Happily the +upper part of the vessel kept together, on which the crew and passengers +collected. Soon after she struck, a vessel was observed three or four +miles to windward, high and dry upon the reefs, with her masts standing, +and royal yards across, and sails set, in which position she must have +been left by her crew.* + +(*Footnote. The Flora, Sheriff, master.) + +During the confusion that existed, one of the quarter-boats was lowered, +but immediately swamped, by which one man, named Price, was drowned. Soon +afterwards, three of the crew, namely G. Pigott, the third mate; L. +Constantine, the carpenter; and W. Gumble, one of the seamen, put sails, +provisions, and water, and arms, and all the carpenter's tools, into the +other quarter-boat, and lowered her down; and kept near the wreck during +the day and following night. The next day R. Quin and J. Wright, two +seamen, joined them, after which they refused to take any more; although +six of the crew made their way over the reef the next morning, and wished +to be taken on board. The boat, however, bore away, and was seen no more. + +The master then, assisted by those who remained, attempted to make a +raft, which was not completed before the expiration of seven days. During +this interval they had managed to distil the contents of a cask and some +bottles of water from the sea, by the aid of the ship's coppers, and a +leaden pipe from the quarter gallery cistern, the whole of which they +placed on the raft with a basket containing beer, and a cask of pork. +Whilst they were on the wreck they were upon a daily allowance of two +wine glasses of distilled water, and a few pieces of damaged biscuit. + +As soon as the raft was completed, they got upon it, but finding that it +was not buoyant enough to hold them, they threw over the water the pork +and beer. Still it did not support their weight, so the greater number +returned on board; leaving Mr. Moore the master, Mr. Grant the surgeon, +Captain and Mrs. D'Oyly, and their two children, their nurse, a native of +India, and Mr. Armstrong, passengers; also two seamen, named Lounce and +Berry, who determined to remain upon it all night. In the morning, +however, it was found that the rope by which the raft had been made fast +to the stern of the wreck had been cut, and nothing was seen of their +companions. It is probable that the uncomfortable situation in which they +found themselves, up to their waists in water, and the sea constantly +breaching over them, induced the master to cut the rope and trust to +Providence to guide himself and the passengers to some place of safety. + +Those that remained then made another raft of the vessel's topmasts +lashed together with coir rope, and made a sail out of some cloth which +formed a part of her cargo. It took seven days before it was completed, +when they launched off and bid adieu to the ill-fated vessel, which was +probably soon broken up, for at high-water the sea breached over her. + +The vessel that was seen with her masts standing, was too far to windward +for them to reach, for even the boat could not make way against the wind +and current. Upon casting off, they set their sail and steered before the +wind, but the raft was so heavy and deep that very little progress was +made. She drifted rather than sailed, and probably did not go more than a +mile or one mile and a half an hour. After some time they came to a reef +upon which they remained for the night, and the next morning proceeded +before the wind, but saw no more reefs. + +After being two days and nights upon the raft, up to their waists in +water, and partaken of very little food, they passed an island, and then +saw several more ahead. Soon afterwards a canoe was perceived paddling +towards them, containing ten or twelve Indians, who as they approached +stood up and extended their arms to show they had no weapons and were +inclined to be friendly. On reaching the raft the Indians got upon it, +and conducted themselves very peaceably; and after a short time proposed +that they should leave the raft and go into the canoe, which they at +first hesitated to do, until Thomas Ching, a midshipman, said he would +go, as he should then have a better chance of getting to England, upon +which they all consented, and embarked in the canoe. Before they left, +the Indians searched the raft very narrowly for iron implements, but only +found a few hoops which they collected and took with them. They left the +raft about four o'clock in the afternoon, and in less than an hour were +landed on an island which they subsequently found was called Boydan, and +which is probably that on the chart called Number 1, to the eastward of +Hannibal Island.* + +(*Footnote. On their way to it the canoe passed, first, three islands on +the right (northward) and one on the left (southward). The mainland was +also distinguished from Boydan Island, and appeared to be about twelve or +fourteen miles off, which agrees very well with the island it is supposed +to be.) + +Upon disembarking, the natives accompanied them round the island in +search of food and water, but they were so exhausted by fatigue and +hunger, that they could scarcely crawl. Upon their return to the place +where they landed, they threw themselves on the ground in despair; as it +was evident from the ferocious bearing and conduct of the savages, who +stood around their party grinning and laughing in the most hideous +manner, that they were exulting in the anticipation of their murderous +intentions. In this dreadful state of suspense, Mr. Clare, the first +officer, addressing his companions, recommended them to be resigned to +their fate; and read to them, in a most impressive manner, several +prayers from a book which he had brought with him from the wreck; after +which, commending themselves to the protection of the Almighty, they laid +down, and worn out by severe exhaustion, were soon asleep; but it was to +them the sleep of death; for no sooner had they composed themselves than, +as Ireland describes, he was roused by a shout and noise, and upon +looking up saw the Indians murdering his companions by dashing their +brains out with clubs. The first that was killed was poor Ching, and +after him his companion Perry, and then Mr. Mayer, the second officer: +after which the confusion became so great, that Ireland could not +distinguish what passed. The last however, that met his fate was Mr. +Clare, who in the attempt to make his escape to the canoe, was overtaken +by his pursuers, and immediately despatched by a blow on the head. + +Ireland and another boy named Sexton, were now left awaiting their fate: +the former, the narrator of this melancholy tale, thus describes his +deliverance: + +An Indian came to me with a carving knife to cut my throat, but as he was +about to do it, having seized hold of me, I grasped the blade of the +knife in my right hand and held it fast, struggling for my life. The +Indian then threw me down, and placing his knee on my breast tried to +wrench the knife out of my hand, but I still retained it, although one of +my fingers was cut through to the bone. At last I succeeded in getting +uppermost, when I let him go and ran into the sea, and swam out; but +being much exhausted, and the only chance of my life was to return to the +shore, I landed again fully expecting to be knocked on the head. The same +Indian then came up with an infuriated gesture, and shot me in the right +breast with an arrow; and then in a most unaccountable manner suddenly +became quite calm, and led or dragged me to a little distance, and +offered me some fish and water, which I was unable to partake of. + +Whilst struggling with the Indian, I observed Sexton, who was held by +another, bite a piece of his arm out, but after that knew nothing of him, +until I found his life had been spared in a manner similar to my own.* + +(*Footnote. Upon interrogating Ireland to obtain some explanation of the +reason their lives were spared, he says, that he has frequently seen the +Indians recover themselves in a moment from a violent paroxysm of fury; +and he attributes their safety to a circumstance of this nature. P.P.K.) + +At a short distance off, making the most hideous yells, the other savages +were dancing round a large fire, before which were placed in a row the +heads of their victims; whilst their decapitated bodies were washing in +the surf on the beach, from which they soon disappeared, having been +probably washed away by the tide. Sexton and I were then placed in charge +of two natives, who covered us with the sail of the canoe, a sort of mat, +but paid no attention to my wound, which had been bleeding profusely. + +The next day the Indians collected all the heads; and, embarking, removed +to another island where the women lived, which they called Pullan. On +landing there, Ireland saw two of Captain D'Oyly's children, and the +ship's dog, called Portland; the elder (George) D'Oyly, told him that the +first raft had landed on the island, and that all the passengers, +excepting himself and his brother, had been instantly murdered; that his +mother was killed by a blow with a club, and that his little brother was +in her arms at the time, but was saved by one of the women, who +afterwards took care of him. The child was seen by Ireland, when they +landed, in the woman's arms, crying very much. He also saw some pieces of +the ship's cabin doors, attached as ornaments to the heads of their +canoes, which they appeared to prize very much, and other relics, among +which were the heads of the passengers and crew, of the first raft; those +of Mrs. D'Oyly and Captain Moore being plainly distinguishable; the +former by the hair, the latter by the features. The heads were suspended +by a rope to a pole that was stuck up near the huts of the women; round +which they danced every night and morning, accompanying their infuriated +gestures with the most horrid yells. + +The number of Indians collected amounted to about sixty; they were merely +residing on the island during the fishing season; for their home, as it +afterwards turned out; was at a considerable distance off. Their +principal subsistence was turtle and small fish, which they caught with +hook and line, and shellfish which abound on the reefs. The island also +produces a small fruit like a plum with a stone in it, probably a species +of Eugenia. The fish were broiled over the ashes of a fire, or boiled in +the basin of a large volute (Voluta ethiopica) which being rather a +scarce shell is of great value to them. + +The island of Pullan is covered with low trees and underwood, and the +soil is sandy. In the centre of it is a spring, which supplied the whole +party with sufficient water for their consumption; and, as Ireland says, +they used a great deal, it must at least have yielded fifteen or twenty +gallons a day, for the hole was always full. Upon a voyage they carry +their water in bamboo joints, and coconut shells, as do the Malays. + +After remaining here two months, the Indians separated. One party taking +Ireland and the infant D'Oyly with them, embarked in a canoe, and after +half a day's sail reached another islet to the northward, where they +remained a day and a night, on a sandy beach; and the next morning +proceeded and reached another island similar to Pullan, low and bushy, +where they remained a fortnight. They then proceeded to the northward, +calling on their way at different islands, and remaining as long as they +supplied food, until they reached one,* where they remained a month, and +then they went on a visit to Darnley's Island, which they called Aroob, +where for the first time, Ireland says, he met with kind treatment. + +(*Footnote. Probably one of the group of the northward of Halfway Island, +near Aureed, named by Mr. Lewis, Sir Richard Bourke's Group.) + +After a fortnight they again embarked and returned by the way they came, +to an island they called Sir-reb,* situated near Aureed, where their +voyage ended, and they remained until purchased by Duppar, the Murray +Islander; who, it appears, upon hearing that there were two white boys in +captivity, at Aureed, embarked in a canoe with his wife Pamoy, and went +for the express purpose of obtaining them, taking for the purpose of +barter some fruit. The price of their ransom was a branch of bananas, for +each. They returned by way of Darnley's Island, where they stopped a few +days, and then reached Murray's Island, where they remained ever since, +and were most kindly treated. Duppar gave little D'Oyly to a native named +Oby to take care of; a charge of which he faithfully acquitted himself, +and both Oby and his adopted child soon became very fond of each other; +for as the child was a mere infant, he soon forgot his mother, and +naturally attached himself to his nurse. When at Aureed the Indians had +named Ireland, Wak; and little D'Oyly, they called Uass; names which they +retained at Murray's Island, and by which they are doubtless now known +all over the archipelago. + +(*Footnote. Sir-reb, according to Ireland's information is Marsden +Island. P.P.K.) + +Ireland lived in the same hut with Duppar and his family; his employment +was to cultivate a plantation of yams, and during the season to assist in +taking turtle and shellfish. On one occasion he accompanied them on an +excursion towards New Guinea, where they went for the purpose of barter +and trade; which they frequently did, to obtain bows and arrows, canoes +and feathers, for which they give in return shells;* and which from their +scarcity, the New Guinea people prize very much, but as Duppar was +fearful that the New Guinea people would steal or murder him, he was left +at Darnley's Island, in charge of Agge, an Indian, until their return. +Duppar and his friends, however, were not long away; for having stopped +at an island, Jarmuth (Campbell's Island) to pass the night, one of the +islanders attempted to take away by force from one of the visitors, his +moco moco (a sort of bandage worn round the calves of the legs, made of +the bark of bamboo) upon which a quarrel ensued, in which the Murray +Islanders used their bows and arrows, and wounded several, one being shot +through the body. The Jarmuth people then retreated to their huts, and +the others embarked; but instead of going to New Guinea, returned to +Darnley's Island, where in a few days they received a message from +Jarmuth, offering peace; which, however, they would not accept; nor did +they afterwards make friends. + +(*Footnote. Ireland describes the shell to be a cone, and recognized it +among the plates in the Encyclopedie Methodique, as the Conusmille +punctatus.) + +Ireland's account of the visit of the Mangles, is so different from what +Captain Carr describes, that the discrepancy must be received with much +caution. + +He states that Captain Carr's object seemed to be entirely that of +trading for tortoise-shell; he was alongside the Mangles, and not at a +considerable distance off; he was so near as to ask one of the people on +the poop to throw him a rope, to get fast to the vessel, which was done, +but owing to the sea running high he was obliged to let it go; upon which +he asked for a boat to be lowered for him to get on board, which was also +done, and he should have made his escape, had not one stood up in the bow +with a naked cutlass and the others flourished their weapons over their +heads; which frightened the Indians so much that they pulled away on +shore, followed by the boat for a little distance, and there concealed +him. Ireland declares, that he did not say, that the natives would not +give him up. + +When under the Mangles' stern one of the crew offered him some tobacco +which he declined. Had Captain Carr offered an axe for him, he would have +been given up immediately as well as little D'Oyly, who was on the beach, +in the arms of one of the natives. The natives knew that Ireland was +anxious to be taken away, and were averse to his going off to the vessel, +saying, "You shall not go there to be killed;" but as he hoped to make +his escape he persisted, and the result was a bitter disappointment to +him. + +Such is the succinct narrative, of which old Lomba offered me the first +rude materials. + +THE CHIEF LOMBA. + +As soon as I had read the papers contained in the basket, I endeavoured, +by the help of the Malay dictionary, to gain some more information from +the old man, and after some time succeeded in making out that he was the +chief Lomba, mentioned by the seamen in their narrative; which was +confirmed by finding that the shirt he wore was marked with the name of +the unfortunate midshipman, J.P. Ching, who so early fell a victim to the +murderous savages on the reef. From our ignorance of the language I was +unable to gain any information of the European boy, said to be still on +the island. Lomba pointed out the village he came from, prettily situated +on the crest of a well-wooded hill, and gave me to understand that I +should there find the other chief, Pabok, who was too old and infirm to +come down. Upon which I determined to remain for the night, in order to +visit the village, in hopes of getting some more information, and also to +make Pabok a present, which he well deserved for his good services. + +The gig was accordingly sent inshore to sound, and soon made the signal +of having found an anchorage, upon which we stood in, greatly to the +delight of the natives, who, as they were not armed, were allowed to come +on board, where they behaved very well. Some went aloft with great +activity to assist in furling sails, and two came aft to the wheel, the +use of which they seemed to understand perfectly. + +At one o'clock we anchored in 11 fathoms sand and coral, three quarters +of a mile from the shore; and as soon as the ship was secured, a party of +us landed, accompanied by the old chief, and followed by most of the +natives in their canoes. + +APPEARANCE OF THE SHORES. + +On landing, the contrast to the Australian shores we had so recently +sailed from, was very striking. We left a land covered with the +monotonous interminable forest of the eucalyptus or gumtree, which, from +the peculiar structure of its leaf, affords but little shelter from the +tropical sun. Shores fringed with impenetrable mangroves; a soil +producing scarcely any indigenous vegetable, either in the shape of root +or fruit fit for food. The natives black, naked, lowest in the scale of +civilized life; their dwellings, if such they can be called, formed by +spreading the bark rudely torn from the tree, over a few twigs placed in +the ground, under which they creep for shelter; dependent almost entirely +on the success of the chase for their daily food, not having arrived at +the first and simplest form of cultivation, and in like manner destitute +of all trace of religion, except the faint symptom of belief in an evil +spirit. + +We landed on a beach, along which a luxuriant grove of coconut trees +extended for more than a mile, under the shade of which were sheds neatly +constructed of bamboo and thatched with palm leaves, for the reception of +their canoes. To our right a hill rose to a height of about 400 feet, +covered with brilliant and varied vegetation so luxuriant as entirely to +conceal the village built on its summit. The natives who thronged the +beach were of a light tawny colour, mostly fine, athletic men, with an +intelligent expression of countenance. + +DRESS OF THE NATIVES. + +Their dress consisted of a cloth round the waist reaching to the knee, +which in some instances was neatly ornamented with small white shells; +their arms and ankles were loaded with rings formed of ebony, ivory, and +coloured glass, some of the former bore evident marks of having been +turned in a lathe. The lobes of their ears were perforated with large +holes, from which enormous earrings of ivory and ebony, in the shape of +padlocks, were suspended, sometimes as many as three from one ear. A few +of the natives had gold earrings of considerable size but rude +workmanship. The boys and younger men had their hair cut short, and their +heads smeared over with a preparation of lime, which bleaches the +naturally black hair to a flaxen colour; as soon as this is effected, the +hair is allowed to grow to a considerable length, and in due time +presents a piebald appearance, the ends retaining the flaxen colour while +the roots are black. When grown to a sufficient length it is wound +gracefully round the head and fastened by a comb of sandalwood or +tortoise-shell; some specimens of which were very large, and of such +superior manufacture as to indicate an intercourse with much more +civilized nations. + +LEPROSY. + +The natives appeared to be healthy with the exception of a sort of +leprosy, from which many of them were suffering. It gave them a most +disgusting appearance, but did not appear to cause any inconvenience, nor +were they avoided by the rest of their companions, as if the disease had +been contagious. On our first landing, very few of the natives had any +arms, but they afterwards brought down some bows and arrows, some of +which were four or five feet long, neatly headed with iron. We also saw a +few iron-headed spears, a few cresses, and some hatchets of a very rude +construction. + +CANOES. + +Their canoes, about thirty of which were hauled upon the beach, were from +twenty-five to thirty feet long, and very narrow, with outriggers +projecting ten or twelve feet from each side, and supporting a piece of +buoyant wood to give stability. They carried one large mat-sail, but did +not appear to sail fast. + +As soon as we had satisfied our curiosity on the beach, old Lomba led the +way to the village on the crest of the hill. The ascent commenced close +to the landing place by a flight of steps rudely formed by logs of wood +laid across a narrow path cut in the hillside, which brought us to within +forty or fifty feet of the summit. After which we had to climb two +ladders, made of hard red wood richly carved, placed almost +perpendicularly against the cliff. In a recess under the upper step we +noticed four small idols that bore a strong resemblance to those of the +South Sea islanders. + +VILLAGE OF OLILIET. + +After reaching the top of the ladder we passed through a gateway, +evidently intended for defence, and then found ourselves in the village +of Oliliet, built on a level space of considerable extent, accessible +only from seaward by the path we had ascended, which the removal of the +ladders would render impracticable, and on the land side protected by a +wall, beyond which the jungle appeared to be very dense. + +The houses, all raised on piles six or eight feet above the ground, could +only be entered by means of a ladder leading through a trapdoor in the +floor. The roofs neatly thatched with palm leaves, and formed with a very +steep pitch projected considerably beyond the low side-walls, and +surmounted at the gables by large wooden horns,* richly carved, from +which long strings of shells hung down to the ground, giving the village +a most picturesque appearance. + +(*Footnote. See the view annexed.) + +The houses were arranged with considerable regularity, so as to form one +wide street of considerable extent, from which narrow alleys branched on +each side. + +Our conductor led us to the Oran Kaya, whom we found seated in front of a +small house in the widest part of the street, opposite to which there was +a circular space marked out by a row of stones placed on the ground, and +which appeared to be set aside for religious purposes, as they seemed +unwilling we should set foot within it. Here the natives soon afterwards +assembled in considerable numbers, and were for some time engaged in +serious discussion. + +ORAN KAYA AND PABOK. + +The Oran Kaya, who was an elderly man, received us very civilly, and +invited us to sit down beside him. Soon afterwards Pabok came up. He was +very old, had lost the sight of one eye, and wore an old straw hat of +European manufacture, decorated with stripes of red and blue cloth sewn +round it. I tried in vain to get more information from him about the +European boy; and on pressing him to come down to the boat to receive a +present, he made signs he was too old to do so. + +After remaining a short time in the village, during which one of our +party caught a transient glimpse of some of the women, we returned to the +beach; where we found that the natives had brought a plentiful supply of +coconuts, and they promised to bring some other supplies off in the +morning. + +DEPARTURE FROM OLILIET. + +At sunset the natives all went quietly away, and we returned on board, +passing on our way some small rocky islands which appeared to be used as +burial places, and emitted an intolerable stench; the bodies were placed +in rude wooden boxes, open at the top and quite exposed to the air, from +one small rock not large enough to hold a body, there was a long bamboo +erected, from which a human hand, blackened by exposure to the sun, was +suspended. + +On the 22nd, soon after daylight, the natives came off, bringing with +them Indian corn and coconuts, in such quantities that they sold the +latter for a couple of pins each. They also brought yams, bananas, fowls, +chilies, etc. but they did not seem inclined to part with them for +anything we could offer, except gunpowder, which I would not allow to be +given as barter. + +At nine, finding we could get no more information from them, we weighed; +the natives all left us very quietly as soon as the capstan was manned, +and by signs appeared to wish us to revisit them. During the whole time +they were on board, they behaved perfectly well, and did not make any +attempt at stealing, though they must have seen many things most valuable +to them, which they might easily have taken. + +From what we saw of Oliliet, it does not appear to be a place from which +any quantity of sea stock can be procured, for although they had plenty +of pigs and fowls in the village, they did not seem at all inclined to +part with them. Water may be procured on the beach, but a merchant vessel +should be very cautious in sending her boats for it, as the crew being +necessarily divided, would easily fall victims to any treacherous attack +on the part of the natives; and from all we subsequently learnt of them +from the traders we met at Arru, they are not always to be trusted. + +After clearing the bay we stood to the northward, along the east coast of +Timor Laut, which is formed by a range of hills wooded to the very +summit, and indented by deep bays which would afford anchorage during the +North-West monsoon, were it not for a coral reef that appears to extend +along the coast, at a distance of two to three miles from the shore. +During the day we passed six villages, all built like Oliliet on cliffs +overhanging the sea, and protected on the land side by dense jungle, +through which it would be difficult to penetrate. + +ARRU ISLANDS. + +At sunset, we passed a small detached coral reef, and then steered for +the Arru Islands, in the hope of being able to gain some information from +the traders who frequent them, for the purpose of procuring the birds of +Paradise, trepang, pearls, etc. which are found in their vicinity. + +During our passage across, we had very irregular soundings, and at +daylight on the 24th of March, saw the Arru Islands; all the islands of +this group, which extends from North to South about 100 miles, and the +eastern limits of which are but imperfectly known, are very low and +swampy, but from being well-wooded, have the appearance of being much +higher than they really are: many of the trees that we saw attained a +height of ninety feet, before they began to branch out. + +DOBBO HARBOUR. + +We stood along the islands to the northward all day, with very light +winds, and on the 25th were off the entrance of Dobbo harbour, situated +between the two islands, Wamma and Wokan. As there were several +square-rigged vessels in the harbour, we tacked and made signal for a +pilot, and were soon afterwards boarded by the master of one of the +vessels, who to our great delight hailed us in very good English. Under +his pilotage we ran in and anchored off a low sandy point, on which the +traders establish themselves during their stay, by building very neat +bamboo houses thatched with the palm leaf. Several hundred people, +including some Dutchmen from Macassar, and Chinamen, remain throughout +the year. The house of Messrs. Klaper and Nitzk, cost above 300 pounds +and contained goods to the amount of ten times that sum and upwards. The +trade with these islands appears to be carried on in the following +manner. Towards the end of the North-West monsoon, the trading vessels +from Java and Macassar, having laid in their stock for barter, come over +to Dobbo, generally touching at the Ki Islands to procure boats, which +are there built in great numbers. On arriving they make the chief of the +island (who carries a silver-headed stick, with the Dutch arms engraved +upon it, as an emblem of his authority) a present, which he considers to +be his due, consisting generally of arrack and tobacco. The large boats +they have brought from the Ki Islands having been thatched over, and +fitted with mat sails are then despatched through the various channels +leading to the eastward, under the charge of a Chinaman, to trade for +trepang, pearls, pearl oyster-shells, edible birds-nests, and birds of +Paradise, in return for which they give chiefly knives, arrack, tobacco, +coloured cottons, brass wire, ornaments for the arms, etc. + +These boats return to their vessels as soon as they have procured a +cargo, of which the pearls form the most valuable portion. The trepang +obtained here is only considered as third-rate; that from the Tenimber +group second, and from Australia first-rate. + +BIRDS OF PARADISE. + +The birds of Paradise, which are brought from the east side of the +island, appeared to be plentiful; they are shot by the natives (from whom +the traders purchase them for one rupee each) with blunt arrows, which +stun them without injuring the plumage, and are then skinned and dried. +The natives describe them as keeping together in flocks, headed by one, +they call the Rajah bird, whose motions they follow.* + +(*Footnote. This is also mentioned by Pennant in his work on the Malayan +Archipelago, published in 1800.) + +During the absence of the trading boats, the rest of the crews are +employed making chinam of lime, from the coral which abounds on the +beach, which fetches a good price at Banda, where fuel is expensive. + +As soon as the South-East monsoon is fairly set in, the junks are hauled +up on the western side of the sandy spit at high-water spring tides, a +sort of dam is then built round them, with bamboos, and a kind of mat the +Malays call kadgang, banked up with sand; from this the water is bailed +out by hand, so as to form a dry dock in which they clean and coat the +bottom with chinam which lasts till the next season. + +The cargo, as it is brought in by the different trading boats, is +carefully dried and stowed away in the different storehouses on the +point. + +CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. + +Of the natives of the islands we had not on this occasion an opportunity +of seeing much, but the traders on the whole gave them a good character +for honesty, and described them as a harmless race very much scattered. +They used formerly to bring their articles of barter to Dobbo, but +discontinued it within the last few years, in consequence of having been +ill-used by the Bughis. Many of them profess Christianity, having been +converted by Dutch Missionaries sent from Amboyna. + +THE KI ISLANDS. + +Having completed our survey of the harbour and obtained such supplies as +we could, which, from the traders only bringing with them enough for +their own consumption, did not amount to much, we sailed for the Ki +Islands; a group sixty miles to the eastward of Arru, consisting of two +large islands called the greater and lesser Ki, and a number of small +islands lying to the westward of the latter. + +The great Ki is about sixty miles long, high, and mountainous; the lesser +Ki and the small islands are low, few parts of the group attaining an +elevation of more than fifty feet. + +Owing to the light airs and unsettled weather attendant on the change of +the monsoon, it was not till the 3rd that we arrived off the village of +Ki Illi, situated on the north-east end of the great Ki, and finding no +anchorage, the brig stood on and off, while we landed in the boats at the +village which is built close down on the beach and surrounded by a wall, +but not so strongly protected by its position as the villages in Timor +Laut. The houses, like those at Oliliet, were raised on piles above the +ground, but were not surmounted by the carved gables which seem to be +peculiar to the Tenimber group. + +In the centre of the village we noticed a large building, evidently a +place of worship, surrounded by a grass plot, on which a number of stones +were ranged in a circle with some taller ones in the middle. Ki Illi is +celebrated for its manufacture of pottery, of which we saw many +specimens, formed with great taste, of a coarse porous material, which +being unglazed is well adapted for cooling by evaporation, in the manner +so much used in the east. + +BOAT-BUILDING AT KI ILLI. + +We had also an opportunity of seeing the boats, which are built in great +numbers from the excellent timber with which all the islands of this +group abound. They are much used by the traders frequenting the Arru +Islands, and were highly spoken of for their durability and speed. The +boats we saw, though they varied considerably in size, were all built on +the same plan, having a considerable beam, a clean entrance and run, a +flat floor, and the stem and stern post projecting considerably above the +gunwales. They were all built of planks cut out of solid timber to the +form required, dowelled together by wooden pegs, as a cooper fastens the +head of a cask, and the whole afterwards strengthened by timbers, lashed +with split rattan to solid cleats left for the purpose in each plank, +during the process of hewing it into shape. + +Four of the smallest of these boats were purchased for the use of the +colony, for about 2 1/2 dollars each, and were found to answer very well. + +After leaving Ki Illi we sailed to the southward, along the eastern side +of the great Ki, which is well wooded to the summit of the hills, and +cleared away for cultivation in many places. There is no anchorage off +this side of the island, which is so steep to, that on one occasion we +could get no bottom with ninety fathoms, two ships' lengths from the +beach. + +At daylight on the 5th we entered the strait between the greater and +lesser Ki, the shores on both sides of which are lined with small patches +of cultivation. During the day we observed several small detached reefs, +and at sunset anchored on a reef, extending from the north end of the +lesser Ki, in thirteen fathoms. + +KI DOULAN. + +April 6. + +After breakfast, I started with some of the officers to visit Ki Doulan, +the principal village in the lesser Ki, and sent another boat to sound +towards a small island to the westward. After leaving the brig we passed +a luxuriant grove of coconut trees, extending along the beach, under the +shade of which we saw several villages, where the natives were busily +employed building boats. + +A pull of three miles brought us to the town of Ki Doulan, situated near +the beach, and surrounded by a stone wall, which had every appearance of +antiquity. On the sea side, where the wall was in its best state of +preservation, there were three gates leading towards the beach, but +accessible only by means of ladders four or five feet high, which could +easily be removed in case of attack. The stones forming the sides of the +central gateway were ornamented by rude bas-reliefs, representing figures +on horseback; and the gate itself, formed of hard wood, and strong enough +to keep out any party not provided with artillery, was richly carved. + +NATIVES OF KI DOULAN. + +Within the walls there was a considerable space in which the houses were +built without any regularity, resembling those at Oliliet, with the +exception of the carved horns at the gable. We visited the chief's, and +found it tolerably clean: it consisted of one storey only; the +high-pitched roof being used as a storeroom, to the rafters of which all +sorts of miscellaneous articles were suspended. The chief himself, who +was an old man, dressed in the black serge denoting his rank, was very +civil, and offered us arrack and cocoa nuts. The natives of this group +differ considerably from those of Arru, and more resemble those of Timor +Laut, but are not so much inclined to treachery. The population is said +to amount to 8 or 10,000. + +Christianity has not made the same progress here as at Arru, and many of +the natives profess the Mahometan faith, to which they have been +converted by the Mahometans of Ceram, who have several priests in the +islands. + +They pay great attention to cultivation, and produce considerable +quantities of coconut oil of a superior quality. Tortoise-shell is also +found, but their chief source of trade consists in the number of boats +and proas, of various sizes, they build of the timber which abounds in +both islands. Outside the walls we noticed several burial places; and in +a small shed, not very highly ornamented, was a rude figure of a man, +nearly the size of life, holding a spear in his hand; and near this shed +was a building resembling the one at Ki Illi, but much smaller, and very +much out of repair. On the beach two Macassar proas were hauled up to +repair, and their crews had erected houses, similar to those at Arru, for +the purpose of carrying on their trade. The boats, of which the natives +had great numbers in every stage of construction, were more highly +finished than those at Ki Illi, but of the same form. + +On returning on board, Mr. Hill, who had been away sounding, reported a +clear channel to the westward. In the evening we again landed at a small +village near the ship, beautifully situated in a most luxuriant grove of +coconut trees, and surrounded by a jungle, too dense to penetrate, except +where a path had been cleared. Many of the trees were very fine. + +AGILITY OF JACK WHITE. + +We were all much amused and surprised at the extraordinary activity our +Australian native, Jack White, displayed in ascending the coconut trees, +which he did with as much ease as any of us could have mounted a ladder, +and when near the top of one of the highest, finding the sleeves of his +frock and the legs of his trousers in the way, he held on with one arm +and leg, while he rolled his trousers up above the knee, and then with +both legs, while he rolled his sleeves above his elbows. His delight at +the coconuts, which were quite new to him, was very great. + +Although we were not very successful in obtaining supplies on this +occasion, we found on a subsequent visit, when our stay was longer, that +they could be obtained at a very moderate price; firewood and water may +also be obtained without difficulty. + +Off the town of Ki Doulan the water is too deep for a ship to anchor, but +the shoal which projects from the point of the island three miles north +of the town affords good anchorage in both monsoons. + +There seem to be clear passages between all the islands in this group, +though contracted in places by reefs, which, from the clearness of the +water, can be distinctly seen from the masthead. + +ISLAND OF VORDATE. + +On the morning of the 6th we got underweigh, and passing to the westward +of the Ki group, saw the Nusa Tello Islands indistinctly through the haze +to the westward of us. At dawn on the 7th we made the high land of +Vordate, but light winds prevented our making much progress till the +evening, when a light air carried us along the land, and soon after +sunset we anchored in twenty fathoms off a small village. Daylight on the +8th did not impress us with a favourable idea of our anchorage, for it +appeared we had entered by a narrow and deep channel between two reefs +upon which there was not more than 4 1/2 fathoms. + +At 8 a chief came off from the village in a large canoe pulled by about a +dozen men, with a tom-tom beating in the bow. He was very anxious to get +some arrack, and promised plenty of supplies. + +After breakfast we landed, and were saluted by one gun from a proa hauled +up on the beach. Our arrival had evidently caused much excitement among +the natives, who came down in great numbers, and formed a semicircle +round the boat. They were nearly all armed with cresses and steel-headed +spears. Several of them wore a sort of breastplate made of hide, and +their heads were ornamented with a profusion of richly coloured feathers +and long horn-like projections formed of white calico; long necklaces of +shells hung down to their waists, and all had their hair dyed in the same +way as at Oliliet. Here we again noticed the carved horns surmounting the +gables of the houses. + +THE ORAN KAYA. + +Soon after we landed, the Oran Kaya made his appearance, and seemed to be +in a great state of alarm. As soon as he got within the circle of his +countrymen he commenced a series of most profound salaams, bending his +head down till he touched my feet. By way of reassuring him, I presented +him with a fine gaudy red shawl, which for a time had the desired effect; +and he then produced a document in Dutch, signed by Lieutenant Kolff, +which appeared to be a certificate of good conduct. By means of the +vocabulary and dictionary I tried to make them understand that we only +wanted some pigs, vegetables and poultry, for which we had brought money +to pay or goods to exchange. These he promised to procure for us, and to +send them on board, earnestly making signs all the time that we should go +away as soon as possible. + +ALARM OF THE NATIVES. + +Finding the natives still coming down to the beach in great numbers, and +that all were in a highly excited state, we merely gratified our +curiosity on the beach, without attempting to go into their village, and +returned on board. + +We subsequently found out that the natives had some reason to be alarmed +at our appearance, as they had been recently visited by a frigate, sent +by the Dutch government to punish the inhabitants of the neighbouring +island Laarat for the murder of Captain Harris, and part of the crew of +the English bark Alexander, on which occasion she destroyed the village +and took away several of the natives, who were supposed to have been +implicated in the business, prisoners to Amboyna. + +After about an hour, during which the natives remained in a compact group +on the beach, evidently in deep consultation, the same chief who visited +us in the morning came off again, bringing with him the promised +supplies, consisting only of a billy-goat and a small pig. We tried some +time in vain to convince him we had no hostile intentions, and as the +weather was too unsettled to remain in so insecure an anchorage, we +weighed, and made sail for Oliliet, passing close along the island of +Vordate, which is moderately high, luxuriantly wooded, very well +cultivated, and apparently densely inhabited. It is separated from Laarat +by a narrow strait, which, from the way the sea broke across it, appeared +to be quite shoal. + +RETURN TO OLILIET. + +April 11. + +At 10 A.M. we were off Laouran, but finding the swell, occasioned by the +strong breezes experienced yesterday, was breaking too heavily on the +reef skirting the bay for a boat to land, we stood on for Oliliet, and on +rounding the point fired a gun and hove to. Two canoes soon after left +the beach, and from the number of articles of European manufacture with +which they were decorated, we soon saw that some vessel must have visited +the place since our departure; and on the chief coming on board he handed +me some papers, from which I ascertained that Mr. Watson, commanding the +Essington schooner, had visited the place during our absence; and by +having a person on board who could communicate with the natives, he had +succeeded by threats and promises held out to the chiefs in getting the +European boy given up to him. The boy had nearly forgotten his English at +first, but Mr. Watson afterwards made out that he belonged to the +Stedcombe schooner, the crew of which were all murdered by the natives +while engaged in watering their vessel. He had been ten years on the +island, during which time he had been well treated by his captors. + +The brig was obliged to stand off and on, as there is no anchorage off +Oliliet during the south-east monsoon, which had now set in; but two +boats were sent on shore to obtain supplies. + +CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. + +They were well received by the natives, and again visited the village, +where they were surprised to find that all the women came out to see +them. All, both young and old, were dressed in a dark coloured wrapper, +which reached from the waist to the knees, and on their ankles they wore +a profusion of bright brass ornaments. The boats were not very successful +in procuring stock, but the chiefs promised an abundant supply in the +morning, which I determined to wait for, and accordingly worked to +windward under easy sail during the night, but found at daylight that we +had been sent so far to the southward by a current, that it was 10 A.M. +before we were again near enough to send the boats in. + +On landing they found all their chiefs, and a considerable number of the +natives waiting on the beach with vegetables, etc. for sale. But they had +hardly commenced their barter, when a powerful looking man, armed with a +large iron-headed spear, in a state of intoxication, came rushing down +from the village; he made directly for the crowd upon the beach, +apparently with the intention of attacking our party; but the natives +immediately closed upon him, and after some trouble disarmed him; after +which he continued to rush about the crowd in a violent state of +excitement, running against any of our party he could see, and making +urgent signs to them to leave the shore. + +At the same time the noise and confusion on the beach was so great, that +the officer in charge of the party prepared to return on board at once, +in order to avoid any collision with the natives. As soon as the chiefs +became aware of his intention, they were most anxious he should remain, +and made every profession of friendship to induce him to do so; but he +had heard so much of their treachery from the traders at Arru that he +resisted their entreaties, and returned on board at half-past eleven. + +ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON. + +As soon as the boats were hoisted up, we made sail for Port Essington, +and anchored there on the 15th of April. + +... + +It was our intention to have concluded this volume with Captain Stanley's +narrative, but as the following account of the daring manner in which Mr. +Watson rescued the English boy from the savages of Timor Laut, has fallen +into our hands, and as doubtless it was the cause of the strange and +suspicious reception the Britomart's boats met with on their second visit +to Oliliet, we here lay it before our readers: + +MR. WATSON'S PROCEEDINGS AT TIMOR LAUT. + +Mr. Watson had not been off the island long before his vessel, the +schooner Essington, was surrounded by eleven armed canoes, for the +purpose of attack. The chief wished Mr. Watson to go in and anchor, which +he refused, but showed him that he was ready for defence in case of any +outrage on their part. The chief, thinking he could entrap him, made +signs of friendship, and Mr. Watson allowed him and his crew to come on +board. The chief then said that a white man was on shore, and wished the +master to go and fetch him off, which was refused. Mr. Watson then laid +out an immense quantity of merchandise, which he said he would give for +the white man, and desired the chief to send his canoe ashore to fetch +him; stating, however, that he would retain him on board till the white +man came, and also, that if he was not immediately brought, he would +either hang or shoot the chief, and he had rope prepared for the purpose, +as also a gun. This manoeuvre had the desired effect on the chief, who +immediately despatched his canoe to the shore. For three days and nights +Mr. Watson was compelled to cruise off the island, the natives still +refusing to bring off Forbes. Towards the close of the third day they +brought off the boy, but would not put him on board until Mr. Watson +placed the rope round the chief's neck, when they came alongside; and as +the crew of the Essington were hoisting Forbes up the side of the vessel, +the chief jumped overboard into his canoe. Mr. Watson made the chief come +on board again, and told him that although he had deceived and wished to +entrap him, yet he would show that the white men were as good as their +word; and not only gave the chief the promised wares, but also +distributed some to each of the other ten canoes. This line of conduct +had a very good effect on the natives, who after receiving the goods +expressed great joy, and as they were leaving kept up a constant cheer. +Forbes at first appeared in a savage state, but after a short time, +stated the following particulars relative to the loss of the Stedcombe, +and the massacre of the crew: The Stedcombe, Mr. Barns, master, arrived +off the coast in the year 1823. Mr. Barns* having left her in charge of +the mate, he and two or three others went ashore at Melville Island. + +(*Footnote. When at Sydney, in 1838, I met Mr. Barns, who corroborated +Forbes's account. J.L.S.) + +The mate ran her into Timor Laut, and anchored; he then went ashore with +the crew, leaving the steward, Forbes, and another boy, on board. After +they had been ashore a short time, Forbes looked through a telescope to +see what they were about, when he saw that the whole of the crew were +being massacred by the natives. He immediately communicated that fact to +the steward, and advised him to unshackle the anchor, and run out to sea, +as the wind was from the land. The steward told him to go about his +business, and when he got on deck he found the vessel surrounded with +canoes. The natives came on board and murdered the steward; Forbes and +the other boy got up the rigging, and in consequence of their expertness +the natives were unable to catch them, but at last made signs for them to +come down, and they would not hurt them. They availed themselves of the +only chance left them of saving their lives, and surrendered. They were +immediately bound, and taken on shore; a rope was fastened to the ship, +her cable slipped, and the natives hauled her ashore, where she soon +became a wreck. Forbes states that several Dutchmen had called at the +island, to whom he appealed for rescue, but they all refused to +interfere; and latterly, whenever any vessel hove in sight, he was always +bound hand and foot, so that he should have no chance of escape. Both +himself and the other boy had been made slaves to the tribes; his +companion died about three years since. The poor fellow is still in a +very bad state of health; the sinews of his legs are very much +contracted, and he has a great number of ulcers all over his legs and +body. Fortunately for Forbes, Mr. Watson had a surgeon on board the +Essington, who immediately put him under a course of medicine, which, +without doubt, saved his life; for, from the emaciated state in which he +was received on board, it was impossible, without medical aid, that he +could have survived much longer. Too much Fraise cannot be awarded to Mr. +Watson for his exertions in rescuing this lad. + + +APPENDIX. + +LIST OF BIRDS, + +COLLECTED BY THE OFFICERS OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, + +DURING THE YEARS 1837 TO 1843. + +IchthyiAetus leucogaster. +Ieracidea berigora. +Astur approximans, Vig. and Horsf. +Collocalia arborea. +Podargus humeralis, Vig. and Horsf. +Podargus phalaenoides, Gould. +Eurostopodus guttatus. +Merops ornatus, Lath. +Dacelo Leachii. +Dacelo cervina, Gould. +Halcyon macleayii, Jard. and Selb. +Alcyone azurea. +Dicrurus bracteatus, Gould. +Colluricincla cinerea, Gould. +Pachycephala gutturalis. +Pachycephala melanura, Gould. +Pachycephala pectoralis, Vig. and Horsf. +Pachycephala lanoides, Gould. +Artamus sordidus. +Cracticus destructor. +Cracticus argenteus. +Grallina Australis. +Graucalus melanops. +Graucalus albiventris. +Pitta Iris, Gould. +Oriolus viridis. +Cinclosoma punctatum, Vig. and Horsf. +Malurus Lamberti, Vig. and Horsf. +Malurus melanocephalus, Vig. and Horsf. +Malurus splendens. +Malurus brownii, Vig. and Horsf. +Stipiturus malachurus. +Cysticola exilis ? +Ephthianura albifrons. +Sericornis frontalis. +Anthus pallescens. +Cincloramphus cruralis. +Mirafra ? ---- ? +Petroica multicolor. +Zosterops luteus. +Pardalotus punctatus. +Pardalotus uropygialis, Gould. +Dicaeum hirundinaceum. +Amadina Lathami. +Amadina gouldiae, Gould. +Estrelda oculea. +Estrelda phaeton. +Estrelda annulosa, Gould. +Estrelda temporalis. +Donacola pectoralis, Gould. +Donacola flaviprymna, Gould. +Emblema picta, Gould. +Poephila acuticauda, Gould. +Rhipidura albiscapa, Gould. +Rhipidura isura, Gould. +Rhipidura motacilloides. +Seisura volitans. +Piezorhynchus nitidus, Gould. +Myiagra platyrostris. +Gerygone ---- (like G. albogularis). +Chlamydera nuchalis. +Cacatua galerita, Vieill. +Cacatua eos. +Calyptorhynchus macrorhynchus, Gould. +Platycercus brownii. +Melopsittacus undulatus. +Nymphicus novae-hollandiae. +Pezoporus formosus. +Trichoglossus swainsonii, Jard. and Selb. +Trichoglossus rubritorquis, Vig. and Horsf. +Trichoglossus versicolor, Vig. +Climacteris melanura, Gould. +Sittella leucoptera, Gould. +Chalcites lucidus. +Eudynamys orientalis. +Centropus phasianus. +Meliphaga novae-hollandiae, Vig. and Horsf. +Glyciphila ocularis, Gould. +Glyciphila fasciata, Gould. +Ptilotis versicolor, Gould. +Ptilotis flavescens, Gould. +Ptilotis flava, Gould. +Ptilotis chrysotis. +Entomophila albogularis, Gould. +Entomophila rufogularis, Gould. +Acanthogenys rufogularis, Gould. +Tropidorhynchus citreogularis, Gould. +Tropidorhynchus argenticeps, Gould. +Acanthorhynchus superciliosus, Gould. +Myzomela sanguineolenta. +Myzomela erythrocephala, Gould. +Myzomela pectoralis, Gould. +Myzomela obscura, Gould. +Entomyza albipennis. +Myzantha lutea, Gould. +Ptilinopus superbus. +Leucosarcia picata. +Phaps chalcoptera. +Phaps elegans. +Geophaps smithii. +Geophaps plumifera, Gould. +Petrophassa albipennis, Gould. +Geopelia cuneata. +Geopelia placida, Gould. +Carpophaga luctuosa. +Macropygia phasianella. +Oedicnemus grallarius. +Haematopus fuliginosus, Gould. +Haematopus longirostris. +Turnix melanotus, Gould. +Turnix castanotus, Gould. +Turnix varius. +Turnix velox, Gould. +Turnix pyrrhothorax, Gould. +Synoicus australis. +Synoicus ? chinensis. +Ardea novae-holiandiae, Lath. +Nycticorax caledonicus, Less. +Falcinellus igneus. +Numenius australasianus, Gould. +Recurvirostra rubricollis, Temm. +Strepsilas collaris, Linn. +Pelidna australis. +Tribonyx ventralis. +Rallus philippensis. +Eulabeornis castaneoventris. +Cygnus atratus. +Leptotarsis eytoni. +Dendrocygna arcuata. +Nettapus pulchellus, Gould. +Tadorna radjah. +Casarca tadornoides. +Biziura lobata. +Bernicla jubata. +Anas novae-hollandiae. +Spatula rhynchotis. +Malacorhynchus membranaceus. +Podiceps poliocephalus, Jard. and Selb. +Phalacrocorax carboides, Gould. +Phalacrocorax melanoleucus, Vieill. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + + +DESCRIPTIONS OF SIX FISH + +TAKEN BY THE OFFICERS OF THE BEAGLE ON THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, + +BY SIR JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D. F.R.S., ETC. + +INSPECTOR OF NAVAL HOSPITALS. + +... + +Balistes phaleratus. RICHARDSON. + +CH. SPEC. B. cauda tot aculeolis quot squamis armata; gena tota squamulis +stipatis aspera, nec lines laevibus decursa; squamis majoribus +rotuntdatis post aperturam branchiorum; fascia frontali et mtacula caudae +nigris: fascia nigra laterali ab oculo ad caudam extensa, cumque pari suo +ter trans dorsum conjugata. + +RADII. D. 3-1 : 25; A. 1 : 23; C. 12; P. 14. + +FISHES. PLATE 1. Figures 4, 5. + +Profile oval, with a somewhat convex nape, and the face descending in a +very slightly concave line. The mouth is on a level with the middle +height of the body, and forms the obtuse end of the oval. The white teeth +have their points ranged evenly, the eye is high up but does not touch +the profile, and the two contiguous openings of the nostrils are +immediately before it. The gill opening inclines obliquely forward as it +descends, touches the middle line of height at its lower end, and its +length is equal to a fifth of the altitude of the body. The scales +anterior to the pectorals and gill openings are closer and finer than on +the hinder parts of the fish. On the body each scale is roughened by +vertical rows of blunt points, which become more acute towards the hinder +part of the flanks, and on the tail one of the points of each scale rises +into a minute spine curved towards the caudal fin. In the narrowest part +of the tail there are not above three or four of these spines in a +vertical row, but there are ten or more between the posterior parts of +the dorsal and anal. Immediately behind the gill openings there are three +roundish scales larger than the others. The scales of the cheeks are +studded with points, which are more minute and rounded than the others, +and there are no smooth intervening lines, such as exist on the cheeks of +some other species. The dorsal spine is rather short, thickish, and not +acute. It is strongly roughened by five or six rows of short bluntish and +truncated teeth. The soft dorsal and anal commence with a simple flexible +ray which is not jointed. The other rays have each from four to six rough +points near their bases. The rays of the caudal are alternate. The +ventral spine is short and blunt, and is armed with short divaricated +teeth, some of which are forked. The roughness runs forward on the chine +or ventral line, until it passes gradually into the ordinary scales of +the head. The dewlap is very slightly extensible, and but little +developed. It is supported by six thread-like rays, which are all divided +to the base. + +A black band crosses the forehead from eye to eye. The upper half of the +eye is bordered with black. The first dorsal exclusive of its last ray is +of the same hue; a black band descends from it, and two from the second +dorsal, which meet in a stripe that extends from the eye to the tail, the +whole bearing some resemblance to the traces of a coach-horse. There is +also a black mark on the upper surface of the tail, and a minute brownish +speck on each scale, which specks form very faint rows on the cheeks and +belly. The ground tint is pale or whitish, with some duskiness on the +face, as if it had been coloured when recent. Length, 2 1/4 inches. +Height of body, 1 1/8 inch. + +HABITAT. The western coasts of Australia. + +... + +Cristiceps axillaris. RICHARDSON. + +CH. SPEC. C. pinnis intaminatis; macula argentata post os maxillare, +altera in summa gena pone oculum et tertia majori in axilla pectorali; +linea laterali argenteo-punctata. + +RADII. B.6; D. 3 : --28 : 7; A. 2 : 25; C. 11; P. 11; V.1 : 2. + +FISHES. PLATE 1. Figures 1, 2, 3. + +This singularly delicate and clear-looking fish has, after long immersion +in spirits, a pale flesh colour, with transparent and spotless fins. A +bright silvery streak descends from the angle of the preorbitar to the +corner of the mouth, where it dilates a little. A speck of the same +colour exists within the upper limb of the preoperculum, and immediately +behind the pectoral fin there is a large oblong one. The little tubes +forming the lateral line are also silvery. It is with much doubt that I +name this species as distinct from the C. australis of the Histoire des +Poissons, but there some points in M. Valenciennes' description of that +fish which I cannot reconcile with the specimen now under consideration. +And first, with respect to scales, M. Valenciennes states that he could +detect none in australis, but in axillaris there are minute round scales, +lying rather wide of each other, each having central umbo and lines +radiating from it to the circumference. These scales are not easily seen +while the skin continues moist, but become apparent as it dries, and are +most numerous towards the tail. The head of axillaris is scaleless, and a +row of pores runs along the lower jaw, up the preoperculum, and along the +temporal groove. The eye is also encircled by similar pores. The muscular +fibres shine through the delicate skin as in australis, and the teeth on +the jaws and vomer appear to be similar. On comparing the specimen of +axillaris with the figure of australis in the Histoire des Poissons, the +second dorsal does not appear undulated as in the latter, but the spinous +rays increase gradually in height from the first, and the anterior dorsal +is proportionally higher; the distance also between the ventrals and anus +is considerably less in proportion to the length of the head, which is +contained four times and a half in the total length of the fish, while +the height of the body is contained five times. The proportions of +australis are stated differently. Length of specimen, 3.42 inches. + +HABITAT. King George's Sound (Benj. Bynoe, Esquire Surgeon of the +Beagle). + +Since the above notice was drawn up I have examined a cristiceps upwards +of six inches long, which was sent from Botany Bay by Sir Everard Home to +the College of Surgeons. This does not clear up the doubt respecting the +identity of australis and cristiceps. It has completely lost its colours, +and shows neither the greenish bands of australis, nor the silvery marks +of axillaris, it has, however, the form of the fins of the latter, with +the number of rays exactly as in australis, a space between the ventrals +and anus equal to the length of the head, scales on the body, as in +axillaris, and similar pores on the head. Better materials are required +to enable us to decide whether axillaris be a nominal species or not. + +... + +Scorpaena stokesii. RICHARDSON. + +RADII. D. 12 : 9; A. 3 : 5; C. 13 6/6; P. 17; V. 1 : 5. + +FISHES. PLATE 2. Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, natural size. + +The Scorpaenae have so strong a generic resemblance among themselves that +it is difficult to detect the distinctive characters of the species, +especially as the colours of the recent fish speedily fade when macerated +in spirits, or when the mucous integument decays or is injured. We have +received but a single example of the subject of this article, which is +named in honour of the able commander of the Beagle. + +The species bears a near resemblance to the Scorpaena militaris, but +differs from it in having no spinous point terminating the intra orbitar +ridges, and in the distribution of the scales on the cheek and gill +cover. The spinous points on the head approach very near to those of bufo +and porcus. The inferior preorbitar tooth is acutely spinous, and points +directly downwards; the two anterior ones are inconspicuous, and not very +acute, and the smaller upper posterior one observed in most Scorpaenae is +obsolete, or, at least, completely hidden by the integuments. The nasal +spines are, as usual, small, simple, and acute. The three supra orbitar +teeth are smaller than in militaris, and the middle one reclines so as to +be concealed by the integument instead of standing boldly up. The two low +ridges between the orbits do not end in spinous points. The lateral +ridges continued from the orbits over the supra scapulars, and the +temporal ridges which are parallel to them, but run farther back, contain +each four teeth. The infra-orbitar ridge is slightly uneven anteriorly, +and two reclining teeth may be made out at its posterior end. The +preoperculum is curved in the segment of a circle, and has a short spine, +with a smaller one on its base, opposite to the abutment of the +infra-orbitar ridge. Beneath this spine there are four angular points on +the edge of the bone. The opercular spines are as usual two in number, +being the tips of two low even divergent ridges, with a curved notch in +the edges of the bone between them. The coracoid bone is notched above +the pectoral fin, the notch being terminated below by a spine, and above +by an acute corner. There are no scales between the cranial ridges on the +top of the head, nor in the concave inter-orbital space. A single row of +five or six scales traverses the cheek below the infra-orbitar ridge. The +temples before the upper limb of the preoperculum are densely scaly, as +is also the gill flap above the upper opercular ridge. The acute +membranous lobe which fills the notch between the two opercular spines is +likewise scaly, and there are a few scales about the origin of the +ridges, but the space between the ridges, the sub-operculum, and the +inter-operculum, are naked. + +There is a short fringed superciliary cirrhus, and some slender filaments +from other parts of the head, as shown in the figure, also lax skinny +tips on the inferior points of the preorbitar and preoperculum, but the +condition of the specimen does not admit of other cirrhi being properly +made out if such actually existed. In the axilla of the pectoral there +are four or five pale round spots. The figure, which is of the natural +size, represents the markings which remain after long maceration in weak +spirit. If there be a black mark in the first dorsal, as in the +militaris, it is effaced in our specimen. Length, 2.4 inches. + +HABITAT. The coasts of Australia. + +... + +Smaris porosus. RICHARDSON. + +CH. SPEC. Smaris rostro porosissimo; fascia obscura e rostro per oculum +recte ad caudam tracta; fascia altera in summo dorso. + +RADII. B. 6; D. 10 : 9; A. 3 : 7; C. 15 5/5; V. 1 : 5. + +FISHES. PLATE 3. + +This Smaris has fewer dorsal rays than any species described in the +Histoire des Poissons, and a shorter body than the Mediterranean +vulgaris. Its shape is fusiform, the greatest height, which is at the +ventrals, and which exceeds twice the thickness, being contained exactly +four times in the total length, caudal included. The thickness at the +gill cover is greater than that of the body, which lessens very gradually +to the end of the tail. The snout is transversely obtuse, but is rather +acute in profile. A cross section of the body at the ventrals is ovate, +approaching to an oval, the obtuse end being upwards. In profile the +curve of the belly is rather greater than that of the back, and the face +slopes downwards to the mouth, nearly in a straight line. + +The head forms rather less than a quarter of the whole length. The eye is +large, and approaches near the profile without trenching on it. The mouth +is scarcely cleft so far back as the nostrils. The intermaxillaries are +moderately protractile, and curve a little downwards. + +The teeth are disposed on the jaws in rather broad villiform bands, the +individual teeth being setaceous and erect. They become a little taller +nearer the outside, and the outer terminal cross row, composed of three +on each side of the symphysis, may be termed small canines. On the lower +jaw the villiform teeth in front are more uniformly small, and there is +an acute row of subulate teeth, which are tallest in the middle of the +limbs of the jaw, beyond which, towards the corners of the mouth, there +is an even row of very small teeth. At the end of the jaw there is a +small canine on each side exterior to all the others. + +The fore edge of the preorbitar is slightly curved in form of the italic +f, the lower corner curving forward abruptly, so as to produce a notch, +which is filled up by the extremity of the retracted maxillary. The whole +end of the snout, back to the eyes, including the disk of the preorbitar, +is minutely porous, and a row of large pores borders the upper half of +the orbit. + +The jaws, the uneven lobate disk of the preoperculum and the +branchiostegous membrane are naked, the rest of them being scaly. The +scales of the cheek are disposed in six concentric curves, the same +arrangement extending to the gill-cover, but less conspicuously. A small +flat spinous point projects beyond the scales of the operculum, which has +a very narrow membranous edging. The scales are ciliated. The caudal is +slightly notched at the end, its basal half is scaly, as is also the base +of the pectorals; the rest of the fins are scaleless. The dorsal is +nearly even, its height being, however, rather greatest at the fourth or +fifth spine. Its end is rounded. + +A dark stripe, commencing at the top of the snout, runs through the eye +straight to the tail, and a fainter one occupies the summit of the back +to the end of the dorsal. The curve of the lateral line rises above the +lower stripe anteriorly, but coincides with it beyond the posterior end +of the dorsal. The rest of the fish is silvery, and the fins are not +marked. These colours are described from a specimen preserved in spirits. +Length, 5 inches. + +HABITAT. King George's Sound. (Bynoe). + +... + +Chelmon marginalis. RICHARDSON. + +Chelmon marginalis, Richardson, Annals and Mag. of Nat. Hist. 10, page +28, September 1842. + +RADII. D.9 : 31; A. 3-2l; C. 17 3/3; P. 16; V. 1 : 5. + +FISHES. PLATE 4. Natural size. + +This fish is described in the Annals of Natural History from a dried +specimen brought from Port Essington by Mr. Gilbert. It has very much the +form of Chelmon rostratus, but wants the eye-like spot on the dorsal. +Several examples in spirits were brought by the officers of the Beagle +from the north-west coast of Australia, all of which show a broad band +passing between the dorsal and anal fins, which was not visible in the +dried specimen. This band is bounded anteriorly by one, and posteriorly +by two whitish lines. In the Annals the anal fin is described as being +more angular than the dorsal, but in the specimens in spirits the reverse +appears to be the case. This variation depends on the degree or expansion +of the fins, and both may be much rounded by pulling the rays apart. The +exact distribution of the bands may be clearly made out from the figure, +which is very correct. The rays of the fins probably vary in number in +different individuals, and our careful enumeration of those specimens +kept in spirits, as recorded above, gives two or three soft rays more in +the dorsal and anal, than we were able to detect in the dried skin. +Length, 5 1/4 inches. + +HABITAT. Northern and north-western coasts of Australia. + +... + +ASSICULUS. + +CH. GEN. Corpus compressissimum, assulaeforme: caput crassius, minus +altum, declive. Os parvum. Maxilla inferior porifera, ore clauso +ascendens, hinc, ore hiante, ultra maxillam speriorem modice protractam +extensa. + +Preoperculum margine integro nec spinifero, disco arcto, inaequali, +esquamoso, genam squamosam postice et infra cingens. Operculum +tridentatum: Suboperculum crenatum; utrumque et interoperculum +latiusculum squamis satis magnis tecta. Dentes villiformes, minuti cum +dente canino in media utroque latere maxillae inferioris et trans apicem +utriusque maxillae dentibus quatuor (vel sex) fortioribus, altioribus, in +serie exteriori ordinatis. Dentes vomeris et palati acuti, stipati +minuti. Dentes pharyngei, acerosi inequales, acuti. + +Membrana branchialis radiis sex sustentata, interoperculis liberis, +accumbentibus tecta. + +Squamae satis magnae, nitidae ciliatae. Linea lateralis antice abrupte +ascendens, dein dorso parallela et approximata, postice diffracta +infraque per mediam caudam cursum resumens. + +Pinnae magnae esquamosae. Pinna dorsi anique radiis tribus, spinosis, +ceteris articulatis. Pinnae ventrales sub pectorales offixae, propter +tenuitatem ventris invicem approximatae. + +The strong resemblance which the subject of this article bears to the +Pseudochromis olivaceus of Dr. Ruppell (Neue Worlbethiere, page 8, taf. +2, figure 3) induced me at first sight to refer it to the same genus, but +on examination I found that very material alterations would require to be +made in the generic characters assigned to Pseudochromis,* to enable them +to apply to our fish. + +(*Footnote. M. Swainson, considering this name as very objectionable, has +proposed Labristoma instead. Both names are founded on the resemblance +which the fish bears to another genus, in whole or in part, and the +objection which has been made to the one is equally valid against the +other.) + +The above character has therefore been drawn up, and ichthyologists may +consider Assiculus, either as a proper generic form, or as merely a +subgenus or subdivision of Pseudochromis, with an extended character, +according to their different views of arrangement. The last named genus, +as described and restricted by Dr. Ruppell, from whom all our knowledge +of it is derived, has the jaw teeth disposed in a single row, and the +minute palatine teeth of a sphaeroidal form. The operculum has its angle +prolonged, and is not toothed, nor is the suboperculum crenated; and a +considerable number of the rays of the dorsal fin, succeeding to the +three spinous ones, are simple but flexible, the posterior ones only +being articulated and divided in the usual manner. Linnaeus has briefly +characterized two fish (Labrus ferrugineus, Bl. Schn. page 251, and +Labrus marginalis, Id. page 263) which most probably belong, either to +Pseudochromis or Assiculus, and which are to be placed, M. Valenciennes +thinks, near Malacanthus, among the Labridae. Now, this family, according +to M. Agassiz, is essentially cycloid in the structure of its scales, +although there is a slight departure from the rigid characters of the +order in the serrated preopercular of Crenilabrus, Ctenolabrus, and some +others, and in the spine bearing operculum of Malacanthus. The latter +genus is, moreover, described by M. Agassiz as possessing scales with +toothed edges, and rough to the touch when the finger is drawn forwards. +It has the simple intestinal canal without caeca, which is proper to the +Labridae. The intestine of Pseudochromis is similarly formed, the stomach +being continuous with the rest of the alimentary canal, and not +distinguished by any cul de sac. Having but one specimen of Assiculus for +examination, I have not been able to submit it to dissection to see +whether the structure of its intestines be the same or not, but both it +and Pseudochromis differ very widely from the labroid type in their +scales, possessing the peculiar firm, shining, strongly ciliated +structure, which we observe in Glyphisodon and its allies, and in the +lateral line being interrupted in a precisely similar manner. Chromis and +Plesiops have already been removed by M. Valenciennes from the Labridae +to the Glyphisodontidae, and it is with them that we feel inclined to +range Assiculus and Pseudochromis, notwithstanding the discrepancies in +the form of the intestinal canal. We can, however, trace a gradation in +the variation of form. The normal number of caeca in the Glyphysodontidae +is three. In Chromis there are generally two small ones, while the Bolti +of the Nile, or the Chromis niloticus of Cuvier, has no pyloric caecum, +but a large cul de sac to the stomach. Malacanthus is widely separated +from the Glyphisodontidae by its continuous lateral line. Since these +remarks were written I have seen Muller's paper, entitled, Beitrage zur +Kentniss der naturlichen Familien der Fische, in which the Chromidae are +indicated as a distinct family from the Glyphisodontidae, which latter he +names Labroidei stenoidei; and Pseudochromis, it is stated, belongs to +neither of these families, because it has twofold pharyngeals with a +division between them. Dr. Muller promises a separate article on +Pseudochromis, which I have not yet seen. + +... + +Assiculus punctatus. + +RADII. BR. 6; D. 3 : 23; A. 3 : 12; C. 21; P. 18: V. 1, 5. + +FISHES. PLATE 2. Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. + +This fish is as thin in the body as a lath, whence the generic name. Its +greatest width is at the cheek, as shown by the section figure 3, where +the transverse diameter is about half the height. Figure 4 shows the +section at the gill cover, and third dorsal spine, where the thickness is +less; and figure 5, represents a section behind the ventrals, where the +thickness is little more than a tithe of the height, and it gradually +decreases to the caudal fin. The oblong profile is highest at the third +dorsal spine, whence it descends with a slightly convex curve to the +mouth, which is low down--the under jaw when extended, being nearly on a +line with the belly. The height of the tail between the vertical fins is +equal to half the greatest height of the body. The dorsal and ventral +lines are both acute, especially the former, and the medial line of the +nape continues acute to the orbits. + +The length of the head, measured from the upper jaw, is contained four +times and a half in the total length of the fish. The large round eye, +situated near the upper profile, fills more than a quarter of this +length. The orbit is surrounded by a ring of muciferous canals, with open +orifices, which are the only exterior vestiges of the suborbitar chain. +The small mouth descends obliquely and scarcely reaches back to the +orbit. The intermaxillaries are moderately protractile, but the lower +jaw, when depressed, projects still further forward. The maxillary widens +towards its lower end, which curves a little forwards. Three pores exist +on each limb of the lower jaw. + +The teeth of the upper jaw present a fine, but rather uneven and broad +cardiform surface at the symphysis, which narrows to a single row towards +the corner of the mouth, where they are a little longer and more +subulate. Four canine teeth stand across the end of the jaw anterior to +the dental plate, the intermediate ones being shorter than the outer +ones. The dentition of the under jaw differs in the dental band being +narrower, and in there being a conspicuous canine in the middle of each +limb of the jaw. There are also six canines standing across the extreme +tips of the jaw, opposed to the upper ones. Most of the teeth are +slightly curved backwards. The chevron of the vomer projects from the +roof of the mouth, and its surface is armed by minute teeth in about +three or four densely crowded rows. The palatine teeth are still more +minute, and the band is four or five deep. The teeth, when examined with +a lens, appear to be very acute and in nowise spherical. The pharyngeal +teeth are subulate and acute, and of unequal heights. There seems to be +only one inferior pharyngeal bone below; but without dissection this +could not be clearly made out. The outer branchial rakers are long. + +The narrow, slightly pitted, scaleless disk of the preoperculum bounds +the scaly cheek behind and below, and has an entire edge with neither +spine nor acute angle at the bend. The other pieces of the gill cover are +closely covered with scales, only a little smaller than those of the +body. The pretty wide thin inter-operculum lays freely over the gill +membranes, and covers them when shut up. The sub-operculum is minutely +crenulated on the edge, and has a small sub-membranous tip, which +projects a little beyond the three opercular teeth. A small curved notch +marks the separation between the interoperculum and sub-operculum. + +The scales extend on the crown of the head to the middle of the orbits. +The snout, lips, jaws, the place at the corner of the mouth over which +the maxillary glides and the gill membrane are scaleless. The scales of +the body are very regularly disposed, showing rhomboidal disks when in +situ, with strongly ciliated edges. The lateral line ascends at its +commencement and bends rather suddenly under the first soft dorsal ray to +run near and parallel to the ridge of the back. It terminates beneath the +sixth ray from the end of the fin, but recommences on the fourth scale +beneath, and runs in the middle height of the tail to the base of the +caudal. Two or three of the scales before its recommencement, have a +minute pit in the middle of their disks, as is not unusual with the +Glyphisodons. The first part of the lateral line forms an almost +continuous tubular ridge traced on thirty-eight scales of the second row +from the summit of the back; the posterior part traverses six or seven +scales. There are twelve or thirteen scales in a vertical row on the side +of the body. + +The anus, situated a short way before the anal fin, has a very small +aperture. + +There are no scales on the fin membranes. The three dorsal spines are +short, graduated, moderately stout, and pungent. The twenty-three soft +rays are all distinctly articulated, and more or less branched. The last +ray is divided to the base, and is graduated with the two preceding ones, +giving a rounded form to the posterior tip of the fin. The specimen had +the anterior part of the fin frayed a little, so that it is probable that +the soft rays are higher and less distinctly branched than the artist has +represented them to be in copying the example placed before him. The +ventrals are in a line with the tip of the gill cover and first soft +dorsal ray, and from the extreme narrowness of the pelvis are close to +each other. They are tapering, pointed, and overlap the beginning of the +anal, which, though it have fewer rays than the dorsal, is similar in +structure. The pectoral and caudal are much rounded, especially the +latter. There is a greater space between the anal and caudal than between +the dorsal and the same fin. In the caudal there are twenty rays, +including two very short ones above, and the same number below. + +The general colour of the specimen, which has been long in spirits, is +shining yellowish-brown with several round dots of azure-blue scattered +over the body. The cheek is crossed obliquely by a row of three spots. +The figure errs in representing the spots as dispersed over the cheek; +they are in fact ranged in a row. Length, 2 1/2 inches. + +HABITAT. Coast of Australia. + +Haslar Hospital, 28th October, 1845. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + +DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW AUSTRALIAN REPTILES. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.R.S., ETC. + +... + +Fam. SAURIDAE. + +SILUBOSAURUS, Gray. + +Head subquadrangular, raised in front, head-shields flat, thin, rather +rugose. Nasal shields ovate, triangular, rather anterior, with a groove +behind the nostril. Rostral shields triangular, erect. Supranasal none; +internasal broad; frontonasal large, contiguous; frontal and +interparietal small, frontoparietal and parietal moderate; eyebrow +shields, 4-4. Temples scaly, no shields between the orbit and labial +plates. Eyes rather small, lower lid opatic, covered with scales. Ears +oblong, with a large scale in front. Body fusiform, roundish thick; +scales of the back, broad, lozenge-shaped, keeled; keels ending in a +dagger point; largest on the hinder parts of the throat and belly; +transverse, ovate, 6-sided. Limbs four, strong. Toes elongate, +compressed, unequal, clawed; tail short, conical, tapering, depressed; +with rings of large, broad, lozenge-shaped, dagger-pointed, spinose +scales, with a central series of very broad 6-sided smooth scales +beneath. + +This genus is intermediate between Cyclodus and Egernia, but quite +distinct from both. It differs from Tachydosaurus and Cyclodus in having +slender elongated toes like Egernia, in the scales being keeled, and in +there being no series of large plates beneath the orbit, and it is easily +known from Egernia by the tail being depressed and broad, instead of +conical and round. Like all the genera above named, it appears to be +peculiar to Australia. + + +The Silubosaure. Silubosaurus stokesii. + +REPTILES. PLATE 1. + +Olive brown, varied with black and large white spots; shields of the head +white, black-edged. + +Inhabits Australia. + +EGERNIA, Gray. + +Head quadrangular, rather tapering in front. Head shields convex, rugose. +Nasal shields ovate-triangular, rather anterior, approximate; supranasal +none; rostral triangular, erect; internasal lozenge-shaped, as long as +broad; frontonasal rhombic, lateral, separate; frontal and interparietal +moderate, elongate; frontoparietals 2, rather diverging, contiguous in +front; parietal moderate, half ovate. Temple shielded. Orbit without any +scales between it and the labial shields. Ears oblong, with 4 small +scales in front. Body fusiform. Scales of the back, sides, and upper part +of the limbs broad, 6-sided, with a large central keel ending in a spine, +larger on the loins, those of the nape 3- or 5-grooved, of the throat and +belly thin, broad, ovate, 6-sided. Legs 4, strong. Toes elongate, +compressed, unequal, clawed. Tail as long as the body, round, tapering, +with 6 series of broad 6-sided, keeled, strongly-spined scales, with a +series of broad 6-sided smooth scales. + +Cunningham's Egernia. Egernia cunninghami. + +Tiliqua cunninghami. Gray, Proceedings of the Zoological Society 1832 to +1840. + +REPTILES. PLATE 2. + +Olive, white spotted head, brown chin, and beneath white; ears with 3 or +4 pointed scales in front. + +Inhabits Australia. + +Fam. AGAMIDAE. + +CHELOSANIA, Gray. + +Head large, covered with small rather unequal not imbricate scales. sides +of the face rounded, without any large scales upon the edge of the +eyebrows. Parotids swollen, unarmed. Nostrils lateral, medial. Throat +lax, with a slight cross fold behind. The sides of the neck unarmed. Nape +and back with a crest of low angular distant scales. Body compressed, +with rings of rather small rhombic keeled rough uniform scales placed in +cross rings; of the belly rather larger, obliquely keeled; of the limbs +larger. Tail elongated, tapering, rather compressed, with keeled scales, +those of the under sides rather truncated, the keel of the scales of the +end forming ridges, the upper surface slightly keeled, subdentated. Toes +5-5, moderate, unequal. Femoral and preanal pores none. + +The Chelosania. Chelosania brunnea. + +Pale brown, rather paler beneath. + +Inhabits West Australia. + +GINDALIA, Gray. + +Head moderate, subquadrangular, covered with regular keeled scales, of +the occiput rather smaller. Face-ridge rather angular, edged with small +scales. Parotids rather swollen, with a ridge of rather larger conical +scales over the ears above. Nostrils lateral, medial. Throat rather lax, +with a cross fold behind. Nape and back rounded, not crested. Scales of +the back equal, rhombic, keeled, placed in longitudinal series; on the +sides smaller, but with the keels forming rather ascending ridges; of the +belly similar, in longitudinal series, with the keels sharp and rather +produced at the tip. The tail round, tapering, with imbricate rhombic +seales, with the keels forming longitudinal ridges. Femoral and preanal +pores none. Toes 5-5, unequal. + +GINDALIA, Gray. + +The Gindalia. Gindalia bennettii. + +Pale brown, rather paler beneath; the scales of the back small, sharply +keeled, forming longitudinal ridges, which converge together just at the +base of the tail towards the two upper ridges formed by the keels of the +scales of the tail; of the limbs rather larger. + +Inhabits North-West coast of Australia. + +GRAMMATOPHORA. + +The Crested Grammatophore. Grammatophora cristata. + +Olive; head black varied, beneath pale; throat, chest and under side of +the thighs black; tail black-ringed; scales rather irregular, with a +central and two lateral series of compressed keeled scales; nape with a +crest of compressed elevated distant scales; sides of the neck with +scattered single elongated conical spines; tail tapering, with uniform +keeled scales, keeled above, rather dilated at the base, with indistinct +cross series of rather larger scales. + +Inhabits West Australia. + +The Netted Grammatophore. Grammatophora reticulata. + +Grammatophora decresii, Gray, Grey's Trav. Austr. 2, not Dum. et Bib. + +Black, yellow-spotted and varied, beneath grey, vermiclated with +blackish; tail black-ringed; back and nape with a central series of +larger keeled scales, with distant cross series of similar scales; sides +of the nape and parotids with series of rather larger keeled scales; +scales of the back small, subequal; tail tapering, with regular nearly +equal keeled scales, and 1 or 2 cross bands of larger scales at the base. + +Inhabits West Australia. + +The Yellow-spotted Grammatophore. Grammatophora ornata. + +Black; the back with a series of large yellow spots, smaller on the +sides; the tail and limbs yellow-banded, beneath yellow; the throat +black-dotted; chest blackish; nape with a slight scaly crest; ears with a +few tubercular scales in front; neck with 3 or 4 groups of short +tubercular scales on each side; the scales small, ovate, imbricate, +keeled, of the middle of the back rather larger, and with a few rather +larger (white) ones scattered on the sides; nostril near the front edge +of the orbit. + +Inhabits West Australia. + +Family HYBRIDAE. + +Stokes' Sea Serpent. Hydrus stokesii. + +REPTILES. PLATE 3. + +Grey; white beneath; scales of the back, broad, ovate, cordate, keeled; +of the sides larger, and of the belly largest, all keeled; of the two +central series of the belly rather larger, more acute and smooth. Labial +shields, 5, 1, 5, high band-like; the 4 and 5 the highest. 1, cheek +scale; 1, anterior, and 3, posterior ocular, the lower hinder largest; +the hinder labial shields behind the eye small, the hinder one smallest. + +Inhabits Australian Seas. + +This species is the giant of the genus, being very many times larger than +the Hydrus major of Shaw (Pelamis shawi, Messem.) from the coast of +India. The body is as thick as a man's thigh, and it must have been a +most powerful and dangerous enemy to any person in the water. + +GONIONOTUS, Gray. + +Head ovate, depressed, covered with small rather acute scales, with 2 +small frontal plates just over the rostral in front; rostral small, +triangular, concave in the centre. Nostrils large, rather anterior, in +the middle of a rather large plate, with a slight slit to the hinder +edge; labial scales rather larger; the lower ones with a concavity in the +middle of each scale. Eyes convex, rather large, pupil oblong; throat +with small acute scales. Body elongate, compressed, subpentangular; back +covered with very small semicircular scales, with a row of larger ovate +keeled scales on each side, and 2 or 3 rows of similar larger keeled +scales over the vertebral line; the sides covered with moderate ovate +keeled scales, rather larger beneath the belly, covered with a series of +transverse rounded plates. Tail elongate, rather compressed, +subpentangular, tapering, like the back above, and with a single series +of rounded transverse plates beneath. + +Gonionotus plumbeus. + +REPTILES. PLATE 4. + +Bluish-grey, belly and beneath white. Length of body 9, of tail 4, total +13 inches. + +Inhabits -- + +This animal is at once known from all the other Homalopsina, by the three +keels on the back, by having only a single series of plates beneath, and +in the lower labial shields being pitted. + +Family CROCODILIDAE. + +The MUGGAR or GOA. + +Crocodilus palustris, Lesson Belanger, Vog. 305. Gray Cat. Reptiles +British Museum 62. Crocodilus vulgaris, Dum. and Bibr. Erp. Gen. n. 108. +Crocodilus biporcatus, Cuv. Oss. Foss. tome 5 plate 1, figure 4. Skull. +Crocodilus biporcatus raninus, Muller. + +Inhabits Victoria River. + +Captain Stokes has furnished me with the following note on this species. + +"Length in feet inches: +of Alligator: 15 0. +From base of head to extremity of nose: 2 2. +Across the base of head: 2 0. +Iength of lower jaw: 2 0. + +Teeth in both jaws vary in size, and are variously disposed, as will be +seen in the sketch. + +In upper jaw on each side of maxillary bone: 18 2 incisors. + +In lower jaw on each side of maxillary bone: 15 2 incisors. + +The largest teeth are 1 1/2 inch in length. The two lower incisors are +stronger and longer than the upper, and project through two holes in +front part of upper jaw. Breadth across the animal from extreme of one +fore foot, across the shoulders, to the other side, 5 feet 2 inches. The +fore feet have each five perfect toes, the three inner or first, have +long horny nails, slightly curved, the two outer toes have no nails, nor +are they webbed. The third and fourth toes are deeply webbed, allowing a +wide space between them, which is apparent, even in their passive state. +The hind feet are twice the size and breadth of the fore, with four long +toes, the two first are webbed as far as the first joint, and the other +are strongly webbed to the apex of last joint; the last or outer toe has +no nail. From the apex of tail, a central highly notched ridge runs up +about midway of it, and there splitting into two branches, passes up on +each side of the spine over the back, as far up as the shoulders, +gradually diminishing in height to the termination. A central ridge runs +down from the nape of the neck, over the spinous processes of the +vertebrae (being firmly attached to them by strong ligaments) as far down +as the sacrum, diminishing to its termination likewise." + +The eggs are oblong, 3 inches and 3 lines long, and 2 inches 8 lines in +diameter. + +The skull of this specimen, which was presented to the British Museum by +Captain Stokes, has exactly the same form and proportions as that of the +crocodiles called Goa and Muggar on the Indian continent, and is quite +distinct in the characters from the Egyptian species. + +A number of large stones, about the size (the largest) of a man's fist, +were found in the stomach. + +Messrs. Dumeril and Bibron deny that any species of crocodile is found in +Australia. See Erpet. Gen. 1 1836, 45. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + +DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW OR UNFIGURED SPECIES OF COLEOPTERA FROM AUSTRALIA. + +BY ADAM WHITE, M.E.S. ASSISTANT IN THE ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT, BRITISH +MUSEUM. + +... + +Megacephala australasiae, Hope, Proceedings of the Entomological Society, +November 1, 1841, Annals and Magazine of Natural History, 9, 425. + +STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 1. + +Habitat: North-West Australia. + +Aenigma cyanipenne, Hope; variety with the whole of the thorax +punctulated. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 2. + +The specimen figured, in other respects seems to me to agree with the +species above-mentioned, described briefly by the Reverend F. Hope in the +Proceedings of the Entomological Society for +November 1, 1841. + +... + +Biphyllocera kirbyana, White, App. to Grey's Australia, 2 462. + +STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 4. + +Habitat: Australia. + +In figure 4a are well seen the beautifully pectinated lamellae of the +antennae in this genus. + +The species is of a pitchy brown, beneath it is yellowish and hairy; the +margin of the thorax is yellowish, its disk has many short rust-coloured +hairs, the elytra have 9 longitudinal impressed lines, the spaces between +transversely striolated and somewhat scaled. + +... + +Calloodes grayianus, White, Annals and Magazine of Natural History, +January 1845. + +STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 3. + +Head green, punctured, head shield yellowish, sides rounded, somewhat +straight in front, under side of head bronzy ferruginous. Thorax narrow, +the sides slightly rounded so as to be almost continuous with the lateral +line of the elytra; behind it projects in the middle, and is notched over +the scutellum: of a lively glossy green, the sides broadly margined with +yellow. Elytra much depressed, especially on the sides and behind, having +a wide but shallow sinus on the sides; surface punctured, the punctures +generally running in striae, some of the rows placed in slightly grooved +lines: lively glossy green, sides broadly margined with yellow. Legs and +underside ferruginous, bases of abdominal segments green, as are the tips +of the femora and all the tarsi: front edge of tibiae of fore-legs +without teeth, hind tibiae moderate. + +Habitat: New Holland, North-West Coast. + +... + +Cetonia (Diaphonia) notabilis. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 5. + +Head for the most part yellow, the yellow extending in a point to beyond +a line drawn between the eyes, behind deep black, margin somewhat +thickened, brownish, four small obscure spots in front; antennae and +palpi brown. Thorax, with many scattered punctures, yellow, with a large +black mark occupying the greater part of the upper surface, narrowed and +notched in front, sinuated slightly on the sides, and with two notches in +the middle behind. Elytra with many punctures arranged indistinctly in +lines, brownish yellow, the suture, tip and extreme edge of each elytron +narrowly margined with brown; scutellum yellowish, black at the base and +tip. Abdomen beneath yellow, each segment margined with brown, the +pygidium yellow, with two largish oblique black spots. Legs black, +posterior femora edged in front with yellow. Length 9 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This species seems to be allied to Schizorhina succinea Hope. +Transactions of the Entomological Society, 3 281.* + +(*Footnote. I may here mention, that in the collection of the British +Museum there is a female of the Diaphonia frontalis, in colour closely +resembling the male; and that the D. cunninghami of G.R. Gray, regarded +by both Burmeister and Schaum as the female of D. frontalis, is decidedly +a distinct species; it was described and figured by M.M. Gory and +Percheron, from a female specimen now in the British Museum.) + +... + +Stigmodera elegantula. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 6. + +Head cleft between the eyes; Prothorax above and beneath vermilion, with +a greenish black spot in the middle, and two small black dots, one on +each side. Elytra with four double rows of impressed punctures, united at +the end. Apex with two sharp points, the outer the longest, a notch +between them; the elytra are vermilion, the base has a narrow transverse +green band, an angular dark green spot before the middle, with two deep +notches in front, and rounded behind, behind this and connected with it +by a narrow sutural line of the same colour, is a fascia running quite +across the angle in the middle of each elytron, and dilated on the +suture, the tip of each elytron is broadly pointed with the same dark +green; meso- and metathorax beneath, dark green, as are the legs. Abdomen +vermilion. + +Length about 6 lines. + +Habitat: North-West Coast of New Holland. + +This species comes near Conognatha concinnata Hope. Proceedings of the +Entomological Society Annals of Natural History 11 318. + +... + +Stigmodera saundersii. Hope Transactions of the Entomological Society 4 +213. + +STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 8. + +Black, with a bluish green hue. Head in front bronzed, deeply punctured. +Thorax deeply punctured, with three deep black longitudinal lines above, +the middle one broadest: Elytra orange red, with four keels and two rows +of deep punctures between each; edge slightly serrated; end of each +tapering so as to leave a notch when both are closed; tip broadly black, +inclined to green in some lights; a large roundish black patch common to +both elytra on the middle, base narrowly edged with black, the shoulders +with a black lineolet and a small round black spot across the suture; +legs and under parts of a deep bluish black, with a slight tinge of +green. + +Habitat: Van Diemen's Land. + +... + +Stigmodera erythrura. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 7. + +Head greenish yellow, deeply punctured, a black band, sinuated in front +between the eyes, on the back part of the head. Thorax above black, sides +and a narrow line down the middle yellow. Elytra gradually tapering to +the end, black with the margin at the base yellow, and a somewhat broader +line of the same colour near the suture; on each elytron are three yellow +spots, the middle one largest and tipped with red on the outside. Legs +and under side greenish yellow; three last segments of abdomen beneath of +a rust colour with four longitudinal rows of yellow spots. + +Length about 6 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland (Swan River). + +Clerus ? obesus. + +INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 9. + +Head brassy brown; thorax brownish yellow, glossy; elytra with more than +the basal half deep blue, with regular deeply pitted punctures, close to +each other, an elevated knob at the base in the middle, the apical +portion smooth purplish black, the smooth place on the suture running +into the pitted part, between the two are four short transverse lines of +whitish hairs, two on each elytron; near the tip are two oblique patches +of white hairs: head finely punctulate, covered with short hairs. Thorax +as it were two lobed behind, an angular depression in the middle, and +somewhat narrowed in front; legs deep blue with whitish hairs. Length 5 +lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This curious species bears the above name of Mr. Newman, in the +collection of the British Museum, I cannot find his description of it, +and not having seen Spinola's work, cannot refer it to its particular +genus. + +... + +SITARIDA, White. + +Head broader than long, swollen behind the eyes; antennae 11-jointed, +first joint the longest, bent and gradually thickened towards the tip, +second joint thin and cup-shaped, half the depth of third joint which is +squarish, fourth joint oblong, dilated anteriorly at the ends, and larger +than second and third together, fifth to the tenth joints somewhat +lamellate, nearly as long as the other four joints; eyes narrow and +notched, the part of the head within the notch prominent; palpi thick, +terminal joint oblong. Thorax narrowed in front, rounded on the sides and +somewhat truncated behind; scutellum triangular, with a notched +projection at the base; elytra very short, one-third the length of the +body, wide at the base, narrowed at the tip; legs heteromerous, rather +short, all the thighs compressed, claws simple. + +This genus, which at first sight looks like a Meloe, is closely allied to +Sitaris. + +... + +Sitarida hopei. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 2. + +Black; elytra slightly pitchy; head and thorax thickly punctured; thorax +with a cruciform impression on the disk; elytra with three keels meeting +before they reach the apex, the intermediate spaces and the apex +irregularly punctate. + +Length 1 inch 5 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +PALAESTRIDA, White. + +Head as long as broad; antennae with all the joints flattened, serrated +on each side; 11-jointed, third to 9th joints widest. Thorax as wide as +the head, narrowed in front; sides somewhat angular truncated behind, +surface irregular; scutellum large, triangular. Elytra longer than the +abdomen, sides parallel, ends rounded. Legs heteromerous, four claws to +each tarsus, two of them larger than the others, and minutely serrulate +on the inside. + +Palaestrida bicolor. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 1. + +Head, thorax, scutellum, body and legs, entirely black. Elytra light +orange with three slight keels, the outer somewhat forked. Head coarsely +punctured. Thorax with scattered punctures, and three or four depressions +on the upper part. + +Length 6 and 7 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This new genus comes near Palaestra laporte (Anim. Artic. 2 250) and +Tmesidera westwood (in Guerin's Mag. de Zool. 1841, plate 85.) + +... + +Tranes vigorsii (Hope) Schoenh. Curc. 7 2, 130. + +STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 3. + +Cinnamon brown, the sides of the thorax with yellowish brown hairs, and +patches in the striae of the same coloured hairs. Sides of the body +beneath covered with yellowish hairs. Thorax very minutely punctured. +glossy, with a very short deepish groove in the middle behind. + +Length 9 to 11 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +CYCLODERA, White. + +Antennae as long as the body, 11-jointed, first joint thick knobbed, +second very small, terminal longer than third, pointed with a blunt tooth +beyond the middle. Thorax globular, wider than the body. + +... + +Cyclodera quadrinotata. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 6. + +Head, antennae, thorax, body and legs, black. Elytra yellowish red, tip +and a large oblong spot on each black, the spot not reaching either +margin of the elytron; under side of abdomen covered with silky hairs. +The head is coarsely punctured, the thorax minutely chagrined with a deep +indented spot on each side behind the middle. Elytra finely chagrined, +with faint indications of two or three longitudinal lines on each. + +Length 7 1/2 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland, North-West Coast. + +This well marked species seems to be allied to the genera Arhopalus and +Hesperophanes. + +... + +Clytus (Obrida) fascialis. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 4. + +Head black, punctured; antennae black, seventh and eighth joints +yellowish. Thorax black, punctured and hairy, a short narrow smooth line +on the back behind. Elytra purplish violet, with three longitudinal +keeled lines not extending to the tip, coarsely punctured, except on the +lines which are smooth: two first pairs of legs red, tips and bases of +the joints darkish; tarsi with brownish hairs, posterior legs deep black; +tibiae with longish hairs. + +Length 4 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +Callipyrga turrita. Nemman, Entomologist, 413. + +STOKES' INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 5. + +Habitat: New Holland, near Sydney. + +The figure of this beautiful longicorn beetle, is drawn from the original +specimen described by Mr. Newman; it is now in the collection of the +British Museum. + +... + +Microtragus senex. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 7. + +Head ashy, antennae brown. Thorax brownish black, punctured and hirsute, +a thick blunt spine from the middle on each side. Elytra at the base in +the middle with a blunt slightly hooked spine, they have two prominent +keels, the external the longest, the surface is deeply punctured, in some +parts almost pitted, grey, a black line on sides and extending over the +back, so as to form an oblong black spot from the middle to near the +base, a dagger-shaped spot on the suture behind, and a few black spots on +the elevated line. Abdomen beneath greyish. Legs grey, with short +blackish bristles, tarsi narrow not dilated. + +Length about 7 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This curiously marked longicorn comes near Ceraegidion boisduval. + +... + +Paropsis scutifera. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 8. + +Yellow; head vermilion, with two long black spots between and behind the +eyes. Elytra yellow with a large squarish spot common to both, outwardly +bounded by a dark line, except in front where the yellow of the general +surface runs into the square. The ground of the spot is red, with a +yellow line near the suture on each side; elytra at the base narrowly +edged with black. Antennae, legs, and underside yellow. + +Length 2 1/4 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +Chrysomela (Australica ?) strigipennis. + +INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 4. + +Brown with a greenish metallic hue. Thorax and elytra margined with +obscure yellow, thorax with the anterior angles yellow, a few irregular +punctures in the middle, and the posterior parts thickly dotted with +impressed points; elytra with seven irregular lines of impressed dots, +towards the tip they are irregularly dispersed, there are a few irregular +yellow streaks near the margins of the elytra; under side blackish brown, +tibiae and tarsi yellowish. + +Length about 4 1/4 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This differs from Australica in having the thorax narrower, and the +antennae longer and less thickened at the end. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + +DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW OR IMPERFECTLY CHARACTERIZED LEPIDOPTERA FROM +AUSTRALIA. + +BY EDWARD DOUBLEDAY, F.L.S. ASSISTANT IN THE ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT OF THE +BRITISH MUSEUM. + +... + +Genus EUSCHEMON, Doubleday. + +Maxillae moderately long. + +Labial Palpi of moderate length, basal joint very short, compressed, +curved, clothed with scales and long hairs, second joint about four times +as long as the first, subcylindric, clothed with long scales, third joint +clothed with small scales, short, elongate-oval, slenderer than the +second, the scales of which almost conceal it. + +Antennae elongate, with a fusiform club much hooked at the extremity. + +Eyes large, forehead broad. + +Anterior wings triangular, the outer and inner margins nearly equal, +about two-thirds the length of the anterior. Costal nervure two-thirds +the entire length of the wing; subcostal nervule slightly deflected +towards the end of the cell, throwing off its first nervule at about +one-third of its length, the second about the middle of its course, the +space between the origins of the second and third nervules not as long as +that between the first and second, the fourth arising just before the end +of the cell: upper discocellular nervule very short, the second discoidal +equidistant from the first discoidal and the third median nervule, the +disco-cellular nervules almost atrophied; median nervule throwing off its +first nervule not far from the base, the third nervule a little bent +where the discocellular joins it, radial nervure running nearly parallel +with the inner margin throughout its whole length, reaching the outer +margin a little above the anal angle. Posterior wings broad, semi-ovate, +costal nervure long, sub-costal terminating in only two nervules, +discoidal nervule nearly atrophied; discocellular the same, united with +the third median nervule; cell rather large. Base of these wings in the +male with a strong bristle passing behind a strong corneous retinaculum, +which arises from the anterior side of the sub-costal nervure. + +Legs rather long; anterior tibiae with a curved spine on the inside, +covered by the long scales of the tibiae, anterior tarsi twice the length +of the tibiae, basal joint longer than the rest combined, second and +third equal; the two combined equal to about two-thirds the length of the +first, fourth and fifth very short, together about equal to the third. +Second pair with the tibiae about two-thirds as long as the tarsi, with +numerous minute spines along their sides and two stout ones at the apex; +joints of the tarsi having about the same relative proportions as in the +anterior pair. Posterior tibiae and tarsi nearly as in the second pair. +Claws of all the tarsi stout, simple. + +... + +Euschemon rafflesia. + +Hesp. rafflesia, McLeay, Appendix to King's Survey of Australia, 463. + +Anterior wings black above, with a transverse macular sulphur-coloured +band beyond the middle, and a submarginal one, broadest towards the apex, +composed of greenish atoms. Posterior wings with a large oval +sulphur-coloured spot in the cell, separated only by the median nervure +from a smaller one on the abdominal margin near the base, and followed by +a sub-trigonate one divided into three parts by the median nervules. +Below, the markings are nearly as above, with the addition of a greenish +line along the costa of the anterior wings, bending downwards at its +termination. Posterior wings encircled by a marginal band of the same +greenish colour. + +Head black, orbits of the eyes and a line across the vertex white. Palpi +bright crimson except the last joint which is black. Antennae black. +Thorax black. Abdomen above black, the base and the edges of four of the +segments whitish, last segment bright crimson; below, whitish at the +base, crimson beyond the middle. + +Exp. alar. 2 un. 9 lin. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +Genus SYNEMON, Doubleday. + +Head round, eyes large, forehead broad. + +Maxillae rather long. + +Labial palpi short, clothed with dense long scales, first joint short, +second more than double the length of the first, tapering towards its +extremity, third joint about equal in length to the second, sub +cylindric, tapering towards the apex. Antennae with a stout, short club, +more or less mucronate at the apex, the mucro mostly if not always with a +tuft of scales at the point, the club sometimes appearing compressed +(perhaps from desiccation). + +Thorax stout, anterior wings triangular, the costal nervure terminating +about the middle of the costa, the sub-costal terminating in five +nervules of which the first and second one are thrown off before the +disco-cellular nervule, the third almost immediately beyond it, the +fourth rather further from the third than this is from the second; +discoidal nervules almost atrophied at their origin, the first connected +with the subcostal nervure, the latter with the third median nervule by a +very short discocellular; the discoidal nervule itself almost atrophied, +running nearly parallel with and immediately above the median; third +median nervule much bent at its origin. Posterior wings sub-ovate, costal +nervure long, sub-costal terminating only in two nervules, upper +discocellular nervule wanting, discoidal nervure distinct and simple +throughout its whole course to the outer margin, with a slight bend at +its junction with the short disco-cellular which connects it with the +median nervule: bristle in the male simple, retained by a corneous +retinaculum arising from the posterior side of the sub-costal nervure, +compound in the female, retained by a bunch of scales arising from the +anterior side of the median nervure. + +Anterior legs short, tibiae with a strong sharp spine about the middle, +the first joint of the tarsi about the same length as the tibiae, the +four remaining ones equal in length to the first: second pair with the +tibiae about two-thirds as long as the tarsi, bi-spinose at the +extremity, first joint of the tarsi nearly equal to all the rest: +posterior legs with the tibiae about two-thirds the length of the tarsi, +bispinose at the apex and furnished also with two spines beyond the +middle, first joint of the tarsi longer than the rest combined. Claws of +all the feet simple, tarsi spiny. + +Abdomen cylindrical, arched in the male, tufted at its extremity, in the +female tapering to a point. + +There seems to be a slight difference in the structure of the antennae in +this genus, in the first species the club is rounder and less mucronate +than in the two following ones, it seems also destitute of the tuft of +scales at the point. + +... + +SYNEMON SOPHIA. + +Hesperia ? sophia, White, Appendix to Grey's Narrative, volume 2, page +474, figure 7. + +Anterior wings of the male brown, clouded with grey and fuscous-brown, a +dark cloud near the base, another at the end of the discoidal cell +followed by a white dot, the nervures greyish white. Posterior wings +black, the base with an oval yellow spot, a macular yellow band beyond +the middle, followed by a series of yellow spots. Cilia yellowish towards +the anal angle. + +Head greyish, antennae black varied with white. Thorax grey. Abdomen +black at the base, whitish beyond. + +Female with the anterior wings nearly black, clouded with light bluish +grey scales, on the margin arranged into a band divided by a series of +black spots; extremity of the cell with a white dot; beyond the cell a +short macular band commencing on the costa. Posterior wings black, with a +large orange spot near the base, followed by a broad abbreviated, +transverse band, commencing on the abdominal margin and succeeded by a +large rounded spot of the same colour; between these and the outer margin +a series of three or four orange spots. + +Head dark grey, palpi nearly white, antennae black, ringed with white. +Abdomen pale fulvous. + +Exp. alar. 1 un. 10 lines. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +This fine species was first described by Mr. White in the Appendix to +Captain Grey's Narrative. He then expressed the opinion that it was +nearly allied to Castnia and Coronis. The generic characters given above +will fully justify this view. In fact we can only regard it as the +Australian representative of Castnia. + +The under surface of this species is beautifully varied with black and +orange, but I may refer for a more detailed account to the work above +mentioned. + +... + +Synemon theresa. + +Anterior wings above greyish, the disc varied with longitudinal pale and +fuscous dashes, beyond the middle the pale dashes almost form a +transverse band, followed by a series of dark spots, margin brown +slightly varied with white; cilia grey. Posterior wings fulvous-brown at +the base, marked with a clear fulvous spot, beyond this, fulvous with a +transverse macular band, the margin itself black; cilia grey. Below, the +anterior wings orange, with the outer margin narrowly black, before the +apex are three or four black spots. Posterior wings greyish in the male, +in the female nearly as above, but paler. + +Head, thorax, and abdomen grey above, whitish below; antennae black, +ringed with white. + +The posterior wings of the male are of a somewhat castaneous hue above, +and less clearly marked than those of the female. + +Exp. alar. 1 un. 6 lin. + +... + +Synemon mopsa. + +Anterior wings pale fuscous or brownish, with two white dashes at the +base, the discoidal cell with a white spot, beyond the cell a transverse +macular white band, in which are a series of fuscous spots; the margin +slightly shaded with pale grey. Posterior wings light chestnut brown, +with some fuscescent clouds, towards the outer margin. Below, light +brown, the anterior wings rather fulvescent, all with some darker clouds. + +Head, thorax, and abdomen grey above, beneath paler: antennae black, +ringed with white. + +Exp. alar. 1 un. 3 lin. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +Agarista leonora. + +All the wings purplish black, anterior with a short bluish white striga +close to the base, followed at a short distance by a second curved one, +united to the former by a vitta of the same colour, extending along the +radial nervure; towards the extremity of the discoidal cell is a white +spot, followed by three smaller, not always well defined ones, on the +costa below and a little beyond which are four generally more distinct +ones, of which the third from the costa is largest, these are followed by +a slightly flexuous and bluish white macular striga, beyond which is a +series of from three to five spots of the same colour. Near the anal +angle is a round bluish spot, preceded, in part surrounded by a +semicircle of the same colour, between which and the second transverse +striga is an irregular spot, also bluish. Posterior wings with a macular +band, not extending to the anterior margin. Cilia of all the wings white, +spotted except at the apex of the anterior with black. Below, purplish +black, the base of all the wings slightly marked with bluish, the +anterior with a distinct white spot near the extremity of the discoidal +cell, and a macular white band beyond the middle, beyond which near the +costa is a bluish spot; posterior wings with a band corresponding to that +above, connected with outer margin by a less distinct bluish white band. + +Head yellow-white, forehead and vertex black, antenna black. + +Thorax black, with two transverse lines anteriorly and the sides +posteriorly yellowish, legs black, spotted with white, densely clothed +with fulvous hairs at the base of the coxae. Abdomen black, last segment +bright fulvous. + +Female with markings rather more blue than in the male. + +Exp. alar. 1 un. 9 lin. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + +Glaucopis ganymede. + +All the wings black, the anterior with a small diaphanous spot near the +base, below the median nervure; a larger one before the middle extending +from the sub-costal to the radial nervure, divided by the median nervure +into two unequal portions, the extremity of the cell marked by a +crescent-shaped, metallic blue spot, beyond which are two diaphanous +spots, one placed just below the origin of the second sub-costal nervule, +the other much larger, divided by the last median nervule. Posterior +wings with a white, partly diaphanous spot, close to the base, and a +transverse diaphanous band a little beyond the middle. + +Head black, face and orbits of the eyes white, antennae and palpi black. +Thorax black, legs black except the coxae which are white. Abdomen +crimson, the first and second segments both above and below, the third +above, of a sooty black, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh margined with +black above, anteriorly, eighth entirely crimson. + +Female wanting the small spot near the base of the anterior wings, the +third segment of the abdomen slightly bronzed, coxae black. + +Exp. alar. 2 unc. 6 lin. + +Habitat: New Holland. + +... + + +APPENDIX. + +LIST OF FIGURES ON INSECTS PLATE 3. + +Figure 1. 2. Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). + +a. b. Head of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). + +c.* Base of wings of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay) to show the bristle +and retinaculum. + +d. Anterior wings of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). + +Figure 3. Glaucopis ganymede, Doubleday. + +Figure 4. Agarista leonora, Doubleday. + +e. Anterior wing of Agarista leonora, Doubleday. + +Figure 5. Synemon sophia (White). + +Figure 6. Synemon theresa, Doubleday. + +Figure 7. Synemon mopsa, Doubleday. + +f. Palpus of Synemon. + +g. Head and antennae of Synemon (Syn. Sophia.) + +h. Head and antennae of Synemon. + +i. k. Head of Synemon. + +l. Base of wings of Synemon, to show the bristle and retinaculum in the +male. + +m. Base of wings of Synemon, to show the bristle and retinaculum in the +female. + +n. Anterior wing of Synemon. + +(*Footnote. The retinaculum is not correctly represented in this figure, +it arises from the anterior side of the sub-costal nervure. The neuration +of Synemon is not quite correctly given at figure n. These errors were in +consequence of my absence from town when the details on this plate were +drawn.) + +END OF VOLUME 1. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1. +by J Lort Stokes + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AUSTRALIA, VOL. 1 *** + +***** This file should be named 12115.txt or 12115.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/1/1/12115/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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