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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical
+and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2]
+       Performed between the years 1818 and 1822
+
+Author: Phillip Parker King
+
+Release Date: April 15, 2004 [EBook #12046]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, V2 ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher
+
+
+
+
+PROJECT GUTENBERG ETEXT OF SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS
+OF AUSTRALIA BY P.P. KING VOLUME 2.
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY
+
+OF THE
+
+INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN
+
+COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
+
+PERFORMED BETWEEN
+
+THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822.
+
+BY
+
+CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S.,
+
+AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON.
+
+WITH
+AN APPENDIX,
+CONTAINING
+VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES,
+ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS.
+
+VOLUME 2.
+
+LONDON:
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOLUME 2.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+Survey upon the mermaid.
+Purchase another vessel.
+New establishment.
+Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship
+     bound through Torres Strait.
+Discovery of an addition to the crew.
+Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.
+Transactions at Percy Island.
+Enormous sting-rays.
+Pine-trees serviceable for masts.
+Joined by a merchant brig.
+Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.
+Natives at Lizard Island.
+Cape Flinders.
+Visit the Frederick's wreck.
+Surprised by natives.
+Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in
+     a cavern on Clack's Island.
+Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.
+Accident, and loss of anchors.
+Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.
+Affair with the natives.
+The Dick parts company.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.
+Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it
+     from the Cascade.
+Farther examination of the river.
+Amphibious mud-fish.
+Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay
+     in a boat.
+Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.
+Interview with natives.
+The surgeon speared.
+Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.
+Description of their implements.
+Port George the Fourth.
+Islands to the westward.
+Red Island of Captain Heywood.
+Strong tides.
+Camden Bay.
+Buccaneer's Archipelago.
+Cygnet Bay.
+Dangerous situation of the brig.
+High and rapid tides.
+Cape Leveque.
+Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.
+Remarkable effect of mirage.
+Leave the coast for Mauritius.
+Voyage thither.
+Arrival at Port Louis.
+Refit.
+Some account of the island.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+Departure from Port Louis.
+Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.
+Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.
+Occurrences there.
+Visited by the Natives.
+Our intercourse with them.
+Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.
+Vocabulary of their language.
+Meteorological and other observations.
+Edible plants.
+Testaceous productions.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of
+     the West Coast at Rottnest Island.
+Another remarkable effect of mirage.
+Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.
+Break an anchor.
+Examine the coast to the northward.
+Cape Leschenault.
+Lancelin Island.
+Jurien Bay.
+Houtman's Abrolhos.
+Moresby's Flat-topped Range.
+Red Point.
+Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.
+Occurrences there.
+Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.
+Barrow Island.
+Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.
+Rowley's Shoals.
+Cape Leveque.
+Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's
+     Archipelago.
+Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.
+Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.
+Adele Island.
+Return to Port Jackson.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+The Bathurst sails for England.
+Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast
+     of Van Diemen's Land.
+King George the Third's Sound.
+Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.
+Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.
+Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.
+
+
+APPENDIX A.
+
+
+SECTION 1.
+
+Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports, islands,
+     and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit.
+
+
+SECTION 2.
+
+Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports, islands,
+     and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York.
+
+
+SECTION 3.
+
+Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and coast
+     between Wessel's Islands and Clarence Strait.
+
+
+SECTION 4.
+
+Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast between
+     Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape.
+
+
+SECTION 5.
+
+Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast
+     between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin.
+
+
+SECTION 6.
+
+Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for
+     King George the Third's Sound, and hydrographical remarks
+     relating to Bass Strait.
+
+
+SECTION 7.
+
+Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of the
+     coasts of Australia.
+
+
+SECTION 8.
+
+Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres Strait.
+
+
+SECTION 9.
+
+Dip of the magnetic needle.
+
+
+SECTION 10.
+
+Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the survey.
+
+
+APPENDIX B.
+
+Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural history
+     collected during Captain King's survey of the Intertropical
+     and Western Coasts of Australia.
+
+
+APPENDIX C.
+
+Geology.
+
+
+APPENDIX D.
+
+Language of the Natives.
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+
+VOLUME 2.
+
+
+ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND.
+Interview with the Natives.
+From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray,
+     London.
+
+WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A RAFT.
+
+VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray,
+     London.
+
+WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.
+
+1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey,
+     Esquire, F.R.S.
+
+2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by
+     F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.
+
+3. Spear armed with the Stone head.
+
+4. Throwing-stick.
+
+5. Hatchet.
+
+Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.
+
+WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.
+
+WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE
+     THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.
+
+WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE
+     THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF SPEAR BY A MEARA
+     OR THROWING-STICK.
+
+WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE
+     THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR HAMMER.
+
+WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE
+     THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.
+
+CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.
+Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.
+From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824.
+
+VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN POINT.
+
+PLAN OF KING'S COVE.
+
+SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE
+     NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND.
+Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands,
+     Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of
+     Cassini Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the
+     outline of the Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).
+
+SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE
+     NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND.
+Left to right: Peak upon Cape Voltaire and Condillac Island,
+     bearing South, two miles distant.
+Several drawings of Captain King.
+
+SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST OF PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER.
+Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and Mount Waterloo.
+
+MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA:
+In English Miles.
+A. Castlereagh Bay.
+B. Point Dale.
+C. Arnhem Bay.
+D. Melville Bay.
+E. Cape Arnhem.
+F. Caledon Bay.
+1, 1 etc. Wessel's Islands.
+2, 2 etc. The English Company's Islands.
+3. Red Cliffs.
+4. Mallison's Island.
+5. Cape Newbold.
+6. Cape Wilberforce.
+7. Bromby's Islands.
+
+SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN WHICH THE BEDS, THOUGH
+     INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED WITH EASE AND SECURITY,
+     WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE SHORE.
+
+SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
+
+SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
+
+SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S CHISEL.
+
+PLATES AT THE END OF THE VOLUME, REFERRED TO IN THE APPENDIX.
+
+TABLE A.
+Chlamydosaurus kingii.
+The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct
+     drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg.
+Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.
+
+TABLE B.
+Carpophagus banksiae.
+Megamerus kingii.
+Phasma tiaratum.
+Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp.
+Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.
+
+TABLE C.
+Kingia Australis.
+Curtis, Id et sculp.
+Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.
+
+...
+
+
+
+VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+Survey upon the mermaid.
+Purchase another vessel.
+New establishment.
+Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship
+     bound through Torres Strait.
+Discovery of an addition to the crew.
+Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.
+Transactions at Percy Island.
+Enormous sting-rays.
+Pine-trees serviceable for masts.
+Joined by a merchant brig.
+Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.
+Natives at Lizard Island.
+Cape Flinders.
+Visit the Frederick's wreck.
+Surprised by natives.
+Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a
+     cavern on Clack's Island.
+Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.
+Accident, and loss of anchors.
+Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.
+Affair with the natives.
+The Dick parts company.
+
+1820. December 6.
+
+As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the cutter was laid
+on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and surveyed by the master and
+the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship Dromedary, which ship was preparing for
+her return to England with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping
+the copper off the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to
+the copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The iron
+spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a considerable repair
+was recommended by the surveying officers. Upon my communicating the
+result of their report to His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed
+with me in thinking that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it
+would be better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the
+harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she was
+examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary's carpenter, who reported
+so favourably of her, that, by the governor's permission, she was
+purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was built of teak, of one
+hundred and seventy tons burden, and had lately received a very
+considerable repair at Calcutta; so that, excepting a few trifling
+defects and alterations, she was quite fit for sea. Her name was altered
+at the suggestion of Governor Macquarie to that of the Bathurst.
+
+By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts; and, besides
+increasing the number of our crew, were much better off in regard to
+boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large enough to carry out and
+weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any accident should happen to the
+vessel; a resource which we did not possess in the Mermaid.
+
+A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of Mr.
+Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary's midshipman; but Mr. Hunter
+the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the Mermaid during the
+last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A. Montgomery, who had lately arrived
+in charge of a convict ship.
+
+Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and men:
+
+Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King.
+
+Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery.
+
+Master's Mates (Assistant Surveyors):
+Frederick Bedwell.
+John S. Roe.
+
+Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville.
+
+Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham.
+
+Steward.
+
+Boatswain's Mate.
+
+Carpenter's Mate.
+
+Sail Maker.
+
+Cook.
+
+Seamen: 16.
+
+Boys: 5.
+
+Total: 32.
+
+1821. May 26.
+
+After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in equipping the
+Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and the greater part of our
+repairs were effected by our own people, we were not completed for sea
+until the 26th of May, when we sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth
+and last voyage to the north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick
+(the same vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she
+was bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our
+departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres Strait,
+which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us than cause any
+delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my part with much
+satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our late vessel, had been
+thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with copper spikes, and fitted out;
+and, before we sailed, had been sent to sea to carry the first
+establishment to Port Macquarie, on which service she had been wrecked.
+She was, however, afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a
+very serviceable vessel in the colony.
+
+Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us, volunteered his
+services whilst the vessel was preparing for the voyage, which I gladly
+accepted; but when the day of departure drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the
+morning that we sailed, his place was filled by another volunteer,
+Bundell; who proved not only to be a more active seaman, but was of much
+greater service to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This
+addition made our number thirty-three.
+
+May 30.
+
+Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of another
+addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the hold, which had been
+locked ever since the day before we sailed, a young girl, not more than
+fourteen years of age, was found concealed among the casks, where she had
+secreted herself in order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being
+brought on deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and
+appearance were so filthy, from four days' close confinement in a dark
+hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole time, that her
+acquaintances, of which she had many on board, could scarcely recognise
+her. Upon being interrogated, she declared she had, unknown to all on
+board, concealed herself in the hold the day before the vessel sailed;
+and that her swain knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now
+inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man consented to
+share his ration with her, she was allowed to remain; but in a very short
+time heartily repented of her imprudence, and would gladly have been
+re-landed, had it been possible.
+
+1821. June 4.
+
+Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales of wind,
+which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new ship; and it was
+very satisfactory to find that she was weatherly, tight, and dry, three
+very essential qualities for a surveying vessel.
+
+June 5.
+
+On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of Breaksea
+Spit, and crossed Hervey's Bay; in the night, when the brig ought to have
+been many miles from the shore, we found ourselves unexpectedly close to
+some land; but it was not until the day broke that we knew the full
+extent of the danger we had encountered: the land we had seen proved to
+be the round head of Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly
+upon it, we were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized
+by us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by
+tacking to the southward.
+
+June 6.
+
+At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by Captain
+Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of a similar
+character: they were seen from the masthead to the north-east; and a
+fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had a few days of fine
+weather, which, as dysentery had already made its appearance amongst us,
+was most welcome, and tended materially to check the progress of so
+alarming a complaint.
+
+June 8.
+
+On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands.
+
+June 10.
+
+But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage under Percy
+Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our situation was
+between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten fathoms, near a run of
+water, which fell from the rocks into the sea at about a quarter of a
+mile to the northward of the sandy beach: from this stream we filled our
+casks. Water was also found in many other parts, but all the runs
+appeared to be of temporary duration.
+
+June 11.
+
+This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears to be
+principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and affords but
+little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it is furnished. In
+the more barren and rocky parts the pine was abundant, but not growing to
+any great size: the Dick's people cut down and embarked several logs; on
+examination they were thought to be useless; but, from subsequent
+experience, they proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for
+during the voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which,
+although very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and
+carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many masts. These
+trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and Northumberland Islands, but
+do not attain any large size; being seldom higher than fifty or sixty
+feet, or of a greater diameter than from twelve to eighteen inches.
+
+Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the pheasant
+cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls, terns, and
+oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a slate-coloured plumage,
+with a small ruff upon its head.
+
+The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught were two
+very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet across: as it
+was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means of weighing it; but
+the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.* It is very probable that
+our bad success may be attributed to the presence of these fish, for on
+board the Dick several snappers were caught with the hook and line.
+
+(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish, probably of the same
+species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each three hundred and thirty-six
+pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 100); from which circumstance, as it is
+not generally known, the name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour;
+it is so-called in the charts of the Endeavour's voyage, in the
+Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks'
+copy of the Endeavour's journal, and in Dr. Solander's manuscript
+journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert Brown,
+Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have been given
+subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of its botanical
+productions.)
+
+In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain, and cloudy,
+thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious defect was
+discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being found rotten for
+twelve feet below the head; and the top-gallant-mast was also found to be
+sprung in the wake of the cap.
+
+June 12.
+
+So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the anchorage to
+shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for we were not only
+losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed situation.
+
+During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the southward
+of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port Jackson four days
+after us, and was bound on a trading speculation to the Moluccas and
+Singapore. In the forenoon I visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered
+him my guidance up the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our
+defective masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without
+delay; and, having Captain Flinders' charts, intended to run "DAY AND
+NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;" he told me that he had anchored here with the
+intention of watering and cutting some pine spars, but that not finding
+the latter worth the trouble, he was then getting underweigh to proceed.
+When I went away, he accompanied me to look over my plan of the passage;
+after which he returned to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past
+us on her way to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored
+under Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the
+natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European construction;
+but from his description, they are similar to what have been before seen
+on the coast, and are constructed by the natives themselves.
+
+June 13.
+
+At eight o'clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the Dick in
+weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off.
+
+June 14.
+
+The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland Islands.
+
+June 15.
+
+And at four o'clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape Gloucester.
+
+Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the southward,
+variable between South-South-East and South-South-West, now set in, and
+was unfavourable for our seeing the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling
+Green was not seen, but the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen
+to fourteen fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our
+having passed this low and dangerous projection.
+
+June 16.
+
+At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at the
+distance of five miles.
+
+The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount Hinchinbrook was
+quite concealed from our view; but a partial glimpse of the land enabled
+me to distinguish Point Hillock, and afterwards to see Cape Sandwich,
+Goold Island, and the group of the Family Isles.
+
+June 17.
+
+In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was seen lying
+at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing guns: seeing this,
+we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat up towards her, under the
+idea of her being in distress; but as we approached, we observed a boat
+alongside, and her top-gallant yards across, which were proofs that she
+was not in such immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the
+risk of losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her
+jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards the San
+Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr. Hemmans informed me
+that the guns he had fired were intended as signals to his boat, and that
+they were not meant for us. He had been aground, he said, on a reef near
+the Palm Islands, but had received no damage: light, however, as he
+pretended to make of this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him,
+and we soon found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he
+quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards left,
+until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres Strait.
+
+I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape Grafton
+during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that purpose steered
+through the strait that separates the cape from Fitzroy Island; and
+anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a mile from its northern
+extremity.
+
+It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored should be the
+anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for Captain Cook anchored here
+on the eve of Trinity Sunday, fifty-one years before, and named the bay
+between Capes Grafton and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day.
+In passing between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives
+were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach: one of
+them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance was too great
+to take any notice of him.
+
+In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay, and found it
+to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal channel, through which
+our boat had some difficulty in passing; the island is small, and formed
+of loose fragments of granite, over which the decomposed vegetable matter
+had formed a soil, which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish
+some luxuriant grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among
+these large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they
+were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small dove,
+common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native was seen walking
+along a sandy beach behind the island, but proceeded without noticing our
+boat, which was at that time passing.
+
+June 18.
+
+The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early part of the
+morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at the back of Cape
+Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West (magnetic); it must have been
+fifty-five or sixty miles off; the fall of the land towards the extremity
+of the cape was also seen, bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West
+fifty-six miles.
+
+In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of the Cape, to
+procure some bearings; after which we strolled about, and found a
+temporary stream of water falling into the sea. In walking past a grove
+of pandanus trees, which grew near the water, we disturbed a prodigious
+quantity of bronze-winged butterflies, reminding us, in point of number,
+of the Euploea hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a
+variety of the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian
+Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick's boat going to the
+bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place he found some
+natives' huts; some of which were of more substantial construction than
+usual, and were thatched with palm leaves: inside of one he found a
+fishing rod, and a line, five or six fathoms long, furnished with a hook
+made from a shell, like the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also
+found a small basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the
+remains of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of
+their shell-fish repasts.
+
+A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at Blomfield's
+Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was not more than nine
+inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was seen by Mr. Cunningham
+feeding upon the grass, but fled the moment that it saw him approaching.
+
+Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or suspected of
+being near us; had there been any number the party would have been placed
+in an awkward situation, for upon landing, they all incautiously, and
+very imprudently, separated, to amuse themselves as they were inclined,
+without regarding the situation of the boat, which was soon left dry by
+the ebbing tide; and it was eight o'clock at night before they succeeded
+in launching her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been
+waiting four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save
+the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short calm, the
+wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we steered on under
+easy sail towards Cape Tribulation.
+
+June 19.
+
+On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had previously
+escaped our notice.
+
+In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a mile from
+the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two miles to the
+northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and, as it was low water
+and the reef uncovered, we walked across it. It is formed principally of
+coral, on the surface of which we found the gray trepang; a small Chama
+gigas, a cypraea, a pretty azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few
+bivalve shells. The few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and
+flew away at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns.
+
+June 20.
+
+After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a course
+farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order to see the
+reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and extent of this part of
+the channel; but the sun was shining in the direction of our course, and
+the shadows of the clouds upon the water were at times so deceptious
+that, whilst they often caused appearances of reefs where none existed,
+they concealed others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we
+were close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it was
+necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered nearly over
+our last year's track, but notwithstanding, we now discovered several new
+reefs, and informed ourselves of the extent and shape of others which had
+escaped our previous observation.
+
+As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the south side of
+Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe, paddling towards another who
+was sitting on the rocks watching our movements; and, as we hauled round
+the south point of the bay, two others were observed walking towards the
+beach; upon seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but,
+after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied by one
+from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation, came forward
+and communicated with our party. They carried spears with them, and each
+of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces: the appearance of Bundell, who
+on these occasions always took his clothes off, perhaps gave them greater
+confidence. After some vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our
+gentlemen, in order to give them further cause for the surprise which
+they had already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his
+fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became distrustful
+and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their throwing sticks, walked
+backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew altogether towards the hills.
+
+Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward, are of very
+different character to the other islands which front this coast, being
+high, rising to peaks, and of granitic formation. Captain Cook, in his
+description of Lizard Island, mentions it as being a good place to
+refresh at, on account of its supplying both wood and water; but, at the
+same time we were there, the latter was not found, although the rain had
+been lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is
+well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain Cook's
+misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the reefs, will always
+be an interesting feature in the history of the discovery and examination
+of this coast, and deserves a more appropriate appellation.
+
+June 21.
+
+Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our course for
+Cape Flinders, over our last year's track. Upon passing Port Ninian, the
+sea was observed to break heavily upon the Barrier Reefs, which in this
+part approach nearer to the mainland than at any other. As we doubled
+Cape Melville, the wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and
+carried us rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape
+several natives were observed walking upon the beach.
+
+In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a considerable
+diminution in the remains of the Frederick's wreck. No vestige was left
+of her stern or forecastle, both of which were before so very
+conspicuous. At half-past five o'clock we anchored with our companions
+near the usual place.
+
+June 22.
+
+The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the wreck to
+collect the spars and planks that had escaped the mischievous fires of
+the natives; and at five o'clock I joined them with the master of the
+Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr. Bedwell to relieve the shore party with
+some fresh hands at eight o'clock. When the time arrived, supposing that
+the relief-party had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the
+hill, in order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in
+the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the wreck,
+where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master of the Dick)
+was at the further end of the beach with his fowling piece, with two of
+his boat's crew picking up shells: when suddenly they were surprised by
+hearing a loud shout, and seeing several spears strike the rocks about
+them: upon looking round, Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were
+advancing upon him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his
+gun at the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the
+powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I heard the
+shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating from the Indians,
+who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his assistance, and came up in
+time to prevent them from doing any mischief; and, by occasionally
+levelling my gun, kept them at bay whilst we retreated towards the wreck,
+from which we were about half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who
+had also heard the noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only
+assistance he brought was an addition to our number. Among the four
+foremost of the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by
+our not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed his
+spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as it was only
+loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the distance he was from me;
+the noise, however, arrested their pursuit for a moment; and by the time
+they recovered their surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great
+mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from throwing his
+spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at first was aimed at me,
+was then thrown at one of the Dick's men, and, piercing his hat, which he
+was carrying at his breast, fortunately, full of shells, only slightly
+wounded one of his fingers. The man, who to all appearance was
+dangerously wounded, for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in
+the air, drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest
+composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were not
+intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly gestures, which
+we, of course, returned, but still continued to walk away with our faces
+turned towards them.
+
+We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of the Dick's
+people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over to our assistance)
+and being without any means, or show of defence, it required much caution
+and management on our part to prevent their throwing any more spears; for
+they were now within a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to
+diminish, as their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk
+handkerchief which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in
+number, of whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now
+was in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our silk
+handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all the grimaces
+and monkey-like gestures we could think of.
+
+Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly offered to us
+by using the most significant signs; which she also endeavoured to
+strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part; but our inclinations were
+not consonant with the opportunity so pressingly, but so suspiciously,
+offered. After our declining this honour, they occasionally laid their
+hands upon our clothes to detain us, but it did not require much force to
+make them quit their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it
+out of his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with
+the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was happily
+effected without exciting his anger.
+
+In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our retreat across
+the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs of our people coming to
+our assistance; when the natives found we intended to walk round the
+point, they divided, and gave their spears to a party that went over the
+hills, as it were, to cut us off; but in this intention, if they
+entertained it, they were disappointed, for our boat was there, and the
+crew all embarked, ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us
+again. The idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a
+moment mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our
+numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison shoved
+off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some muskets to be sent
+for our protection: by the time, however, that Mr. Bedwell arrived, we
+had succeeded in making friends with the natives; who, upon perceiving
+that we had now in our turn the superiority, began to draw away, and
+appeared to be as anxious to get rid of us as we had been, half an hour
+before, to escape from them; but we accompanied them halfway across the
+reef, watching an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick's
+man, whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then to
+dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical to them,
+although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My intention, however,
+was probably suspected, for they avoided our approaching sufficiently
+near them to effect my purpose with the certainty of success, I therefore
+called our people away to resume their work at the wreck, and, after
+leaving orders with Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if
+an opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the party to
+breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long before hostilities
+again commenced, and several shots were mischievously fired at the
+natives by some of the Dick's and San Antonio's people, who, being
+advanced, had very improperly endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon
+which one of the natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it,
+when several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who,
+fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his limping
+appeared to have been struck in the leg.
+
+After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr. Bedwell was
+employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr. Cunningham traversed the
+hills in the vicinity, for it was not safe to trust himself at any
+distance from our people, since the natives would not have failed, had
+they met with an opportunity, to punish us for our broken faith.
+
+June 23.
+
+The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck, they
+reported that the natives had shown themselves on the opposite side of
+the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr. Harrison, to endeavour to
+make peace, but saw no signs of them, excepting a smoke on the next
+island, to which they had probably retired. On the following day they
+were again seen, and fired upon by the boat's crew of the Dick.
+
+All these events gave me much concern, not only because the natives may
+be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers who may subsequently
+pass this way, but also because they must have imbibed a very poor idea
+of the effect of our arms, when so many muskets were fired without doing
+them any mischief: and, but for the sake of humanity, I could almost have
+wished that one had been killed.
+
+The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio conveyed Mr.
+Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack's Island. The reef abounded with
+shells, of which they brought back a large collection, but not in any
+great variety; an indifferent cypraea was the most common; but there were
+also some volutae and other shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in
+abundance. Mr. Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the
+rock, of which he gave me a description in the following account of the
+island:
+
+"The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island presented a
+steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. I ascended the steep
+head, which rose to an elevation of a hundred and eighty feet above the
+sea. I found simply the plants of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia,
+Br.; Hoya nivea, Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham
+manuscript; Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some
+alyxiae, and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets,
+and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks, clothed a
+great portion of the inaccessible front of the island.
+
+"The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this islet led me
+to examine the south-east part, which was the most exposed to the
+weather, and where the disposition of the strata was of course more
+plainly developed. The base is a coarse, granular, siliceous sandstone,
+in which large pebbles of quartz and jasper are embedded: this stratum
+continues for sixteen to twenty feet above the water: for the next ten
+feet there is a horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of
+so soft a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of
+galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings were
+observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they were executed
+upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black schistus) and were
+delineated by dots of a white argillaceous earth, which had been worked
+up into a paste. They represented tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises,
+turtles, lizards (of which I saw several small ones among the rocks)
+trepang, star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds,
+which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The
+figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all over with
+the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a gallery round to
+windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or recess, overhung by a
+portion of the schistus, sufficiently large to shelter twenty natives,
+whose recent fireplaces appeared on the projecting area of the cave.
+
+"Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of the
+excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse mode of life
+these outcasts of society had, at a period rather recently, followed. The
+roof and sides of this snug retreat were also entirely covered with the
+uncouth figures I have already described.
+
+"As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine arts that
+we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make a particular
+observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered figures on Chasm
+Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with a burnt stick; but this
+performance, exceeding a hundred and fifty figures, which must have
+occupied much time, appears at least to be one step nearer refinement
+than those simply executed with a piece of charred wood. Immediately
+above this schistose stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which
+appeared to form the upper stratum of the island." (Cunningham
+manuscript.)*
+
+(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr. White, carved on
+stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. White's Journal quarto page
+141.)
+
+June 25.
+
+Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that could be
+useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at daylight, the 25th,
+got underweigh with my two companions, and resumed our course to the
+northward, over that of last year, excepting that we steered inside of
+Pelican Island, and to leeward of Island 4. We passed several large
+sting-rays asleep on the surface of the sea, which our people
+ineffectually endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights
+of pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of it,
+there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds.
+
+The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island before dark,
+the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy bottom, two miles to the
+eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San Antonio anchored close to us.
+During the night we had a fresh breeze from South-East by East, and, not
+having any island or reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged
+to drop a second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for
+some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without driving,
+although she had but forty fathoms of cable out.
+
+June 26.
+
+On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by West, but,
+from the compass-box not being quite straight in the binnacle, we made a
+North by West 1/2 West course, which was not discovered until we had
+nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we passed close to a rock which I
+intended to have gone at least a mile to windward of. It was seen just in
+time to put the helm a-lee, or we should have run upon it.
+
+The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile around us; we
+were therefore obliged to follow our former courses, to avoid the risk of
+running over a strange track in such unfavourable weather. At sunset we
+anchored under the lee of Piper's Islets.
+
+June 27.
+
+The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay, at about
+half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west side.
+
+Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th.
+
+June 30.
+
+When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of losing so
+much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course. After passing the Bird
+Isles, thick weather again set in, with constant rain, and a strong
+breeze from South-East. Upon reaching Cairncross Island, under which it
+was my intention to anchor, the sails were reduced; and, as we were in
+the act of letting go the anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead
+holding thoughtlessly by the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the
+sail was being hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet,
+and fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and, in
+the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick at the same
+time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was dropped, without my
+ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which was afterwards found to be
+of a very questionable nature.
+
+The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us, was lying
+so close as to prevent our veering more cable than sixty fathoms, but as
+we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a sheer to starboard, while the
+Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we remained as we were: to prevent
+accident, the yards were braced so that we should cast clear of the Dick
+if we parted, a precaution which was most happily taken.
+
+As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was known on board
+the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and a passenger in that
+ship, hastened on board to assist Mr. Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe's
+hurt, which I found, to my inexpressible satisfaction, was not so
+grievous as might have been expected: his fall was, most providentially,
+broken twice; first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks
+from the Frederick's wreck, which had fortunately been placed across the
+forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the edge of the
+plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep wound over the right
+temple. This unfortunate event threatened to deprive me of his very
+valuable assistance for some time, a loss I could but very ill spare,
+particularly when upon the point of returning to the examination of so
+intricate a coast as that part where we last left off.
+
+At six o'clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to leeward, and
+as night approached the appearance of the weather became very
+threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury; this gave me a very
+unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind was blowing clear of the
+reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the Dick was so close to us that we
+dared not veer cable, for fear of getting on board of her, which must
+have happened if either ship should break her sheer.
+
+At half-past ten o'clock, during a very heavy squall, the cable parted,
+but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig happily drifted with
+her head to starboard, and passed clear both of the Dick and San Antonio;
+the chain-cabled anchor was then dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms,
+which brought her up in fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared
+to ride much easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost
+anchor; and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our
+situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the morning if the
+weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to go on board her; which,
+although a service of danger, was, if possible to be effected, absolutely
+necessary. The boat was lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew
+were unable to pull it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most
+fortunate; for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the
+brig drove with her head towards the shore.
+
+1821. July 1.
+
+We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail during the
+remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer, in order that, by
+laying to with her head off shore, we might have time to recover the
+cable, without endangering the security of the vessel; but, from the
+weight of the chain at the bow, this manoeuvre could not be effected;
+fearing, therefore, to drift any more to the westward, in which direction
+we were making rapid way, I was under the necessity of slipping the
+chain, by which we lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but
+badly spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig's head was
+placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets and
+showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards appeared, kept
+a light up for our guidance; but the weather was so squally and thick,
+with almost constant rain, that it was not seen by us. It was half-past
+twelve o'clock when we made sail to the North-East by East, deepening
+from fourteen to sixteen fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of
+Cairncross Island bore South by West, beyond which bearing we did not
+know how far we could proceed with safety; we tacked to the
+South-South-West, and proceeded in that direction until the island bore
+South, when we were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the
+depth of this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was
+occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very dark and
+squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At day-dawn we were
+joined by our companions, and, as it was not possible from the state of
+the weather to regain the anchors we had lost, made sail towards Turtle
+Island, on our way to which we passed Escape River: both of these places
+reminded us of former perils, but the recollection of our providential
+preservation on those occasions, as well as on many others during our
+former voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for our
+safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties and
+circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our minds.
+
+Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously formed;
+for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of the way no land
+could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed between Cape York and
+Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded the north end of Wednesday
+Island, and were steering between it and the North-West Reef.
+
+After passing the rock off Hammond's Island, we steered West by South 1/2
+South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by West to pass to the
+southward of a small shoal, some part of which was uncovered (the time of
+tide being nearly low water, spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50
+degrees West direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of
+Good's Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick
+being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the least
+we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not noticed in Captain
+Flinders' chart: at high water, or even at half ebb, it is very
+dangerous, from its lying in the direct track; but, by hauling over to
+the south shore, may be easily avoided.
+
+At four o'clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by South across
+the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+July 3.
+
+Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight of on the
+3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between South and
+East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some heavy rain, in
+which the mercury, having previously fallen to 29.91, rose to 29.95
+inches. Lightning from the east and west accompanied the rain, but the
+wind was steady, and did not freshen or lull during the showers.
+
+July 5.
+
+On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at nine o'clock
+we passed through the strait that divides them; our track being half a
+mile more to the northward than that of last year, we had more regular
+soundings.
+
+As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to examine our
+former watering-place, but found that the stream had failed. The parched
+up appearance of the island showed that the last had been an unusually
+dry season; every place that, even in the month of August, six weeks
+later, had before yielded large quantities, as well as the lagoon behind
+the beach, which, from the nature of the plants growing in it, was
+conjectured to be a never-failing supply, was now dried up.
+
+July 6 to 8.
+
+The next morning the brig's boat went over to Sims Island with Mr.
+Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water, sufficient,
+according to Mr. Hemmans' report, for all our wants. The next morning
+(7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the island, and anchoring her off
+the sandy beach, landed his people to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent
+me a specimen of what had been collected; but it was so brackish that I
+gave up all idea of shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes,
+into which all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good
+was spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which,
+notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to tempt me
+to embark any. During the San Antonio's stay at Sims Island, our
+gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to have suffered as
+much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. "The venerable tournefortia
+(Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however, appeared as an exception: this
+tree, which grows on the centre of the beach, where it is remarkably
+conspicuous, appeared to have resisted the dry state of the season; it
+was in full leaf, and covered with a profusion of flowers, which
+attracted a variety of insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa,
+and sphex; and among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis."
+(Cunningham manuscripts.)
+
+During the two last days, our people were employed cutting wood; no
+natives had made their appearance, although recent tracks on the sand
+showed they were not far off; but on the evening of the 7th, the surgeon,
+accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of the Dick, landed in that vessel's gig,
+and, whilst amusing themselves among the trees, and the boat's crew
+incautiously wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and
+would have carried off all the boat's furniture, and everything in her,
+had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors with a
+musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new boat-cloak,
+and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly succeeded in carrying off
+an oar, but upon being fired at, dropped his booty and scampered off.
+This trifling loss was deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they
+were well aware how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how
+mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves: they were
+also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon their guard, and it
+was fortunate for them that nothing more serious occurred.
+
+July 8.
+
+At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims Island, and
+at eleven o'clock we left the bay, and passed to the eastward of New
+Year's Island: the Dick and ourselves then steered to the westward along
+the coast, while the San Antonio steered a north-west course, and parted
+company.
+
+July 9.
+
+The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van Diemen, and
+having sent our letters on board the Dick for conveyance to England, we
+parted company by an interchange of three cheers; and it was not without
+a considerable degree of regret that we took this leave of our friends;
+for it is but due to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great
+assistance from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor
+to replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one
+left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose.
+
+By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, and the
+Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and communicating to them a
+brief account of our voyage up the east coast, acquainted them of my
+intention of employing the fine-weather months of July and August upon
+the north-west coast, and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our
+anchors and cable, previous to our examination of the west coast.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.
+Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it from the
+Cascade.
+Farther examination of the river.
+Amphibious mud-fish.
+Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay in a
+boat.
+Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.
+Interview with natives.
+The surgeon speared.
+Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.
+Description of their implements.
+Port George the Fourth.
+Islands to the westward.
+Red Island of Captain Heywood.
+Strong tides.
+Camden Bay.
+Buccaneer's Archipelago.
+Cygnet Bay.
+Dangerous situation of the brig.
+High and rapid tides.
+Cape Leveque.
+Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.
+Remarkable effect of mirage.
+Leave the coast for Mauritius.
+Voyage thither.
+Arrival at Port Louis.
+Refit.
+Some account of the island.
+
+1821. July 9.
+
+Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape Londonderry; on which,
+with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded with rapidity.
+
+July 12.
+
+On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham Moore's Islands
+were seen, and in the afternoon we passed Troughton Island; at sunset,
+Point Hillock bore South thirteen miles, whence we steered to the
+West-North-West and North-West, and rounded the north end of the long
+reef, to the westward of Cape Bougainville.
+
+July 13.
+
+The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing South by
+West; here we were detained for two days by light baffling winds and
+calms.
+
+July 14.
+
+During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the westward, and
+we stood off and on to the north of Cassini Island.
+
+July 15.
+
+At half-past one o'clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three fathoms, we
+shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel's head was put to the
+southward, but the breeze was so very light, that she had hardly steerage
+way: by the light of the moon a line of breakers was seen two miles off,
+under our lee: we had now shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but
+its great irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last
+minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only one we
+had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the boat was lowered,
+and sent to sound between the vessel and the breakers. Finding we made no
+progress off the reef by standing to the southward, we tacked; and, a
+light breeze springing up from the westward, we drew off the bank on a
+north-west course, and in the space of a mile and a half deepened the
+water gradually to thirty fathoms.
+
+July 16.
+
+The next morning, at a quarter past eight o'clock, the breakers were
+again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44 seconds West of Troughton
+Island. The wind was too light to allow of our approaching, we therefore
+tacked off to the westward, and soon lost sight of them; at noon we were
+in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the
+masthead, bearing south-east, distant eight or nine miles.
+
+During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood first to the
+westward, and afterwards to the south-east.
+
+July 17.
+
+At seven o'clock the next morning no land was in sight, but breakers were
+seen extending from South by West to South-West by South, about five
+miles off; and two miles beyond them was another line of breakers,
+bearing from South-South-West to South-West by West. As we steered
+obliquely towards them, they were noticed to extend still farther to the
+eastward, but apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood
+on, shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a mile of
+an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a rocky bottom. The
+wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of being becalmed, I was anxious
+to get an offing. By our observations, we found the breakers this morning
+were connected with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin's
+Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague and
+incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with respect to the
+position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of their reefs.
+
+At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a freshening breeze
+from South-East enabled us to make progress to the southward. At two
+o'clock some of the Montalivet Islands were seen; and before three
+o'clock, an island was seen bearing South, which proved, as we stood
+towards it, to be the northernmost of a group lying off the north-west
+end of Bigge's Island; they were seen last year from Cape Pond, and also
+from the summit of the hills over Careening Bay.
+
+July 19 to 21.
+
+At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was about six
+leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees East, but a
+continuation of calms and light winds detained us in sight of them until
+the 21st.
+
+This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to be those
+called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one quarter to a mile
+and a half in extent, and are rocky and flat-topped; the shores are
+composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They are fronted on the west side by a
+rocky reef extending in a North-North-East and South-South-West
+direction.
+
+During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had seen many
+fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and preserved; its length
+was four feet four inches; the head very small; it had neither fins nor
+gills, and respired like land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it
+did not appear to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long;
+and many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by the
+towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be perfectly
+invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former were a species of
+phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of Leach.*
+
+(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander manuscripts. Lin. Gmel.
+tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr. Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.)
+
+At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West of Captain
+Baudin's Colbert Island; at the back of which were seen some patches of
+the Coronation Islands. The night was passed at anchor off the
+northernmost Coronation Island.
+
+July 23.
+
+And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile from the
+sandy beach of Careening Bay.
+
+As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and recognised
+the site of our last year's encampment, which had suffered no alteration,
+except what had been occasioned by a rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the
+stem of which had served as one of the props of our mess-tent, and to
+which we had nailed a sheet of copper with an inscription, was
+considerably grown; and the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the
+nails had pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper
+off.
+
+The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid's name had been carved
+in deep indented characters remained without any alteration, and seemed
+likely to bear the marks of our visit longer than any other memento we
+had left.
+
+The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so seasonably
+afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for convenience for our
+purposes, can only be estimated by those who have experienced them; and
+it is only to strangers to such feelings that it will appear ridiculous
+to say, that even the nail to which our thermometer had been suspended,
+was the subject of pleasurable recognition.
+
+We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our mortification, it
+was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of its having contained any
+for some time. From the more luxuriant and verdant appearance of the
+trees and grass than the country hereabout assumed last year, when the
+water was abundant, we had felt assured of finding it and therefore our
+disappointment was the greater.
+
+July 24.
+
+After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the eastward of
+Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a gully that Mr.
+Cunningham informed me had last year produced a considerable stream, we
+gave up all hopes of success here, and directed our attention to the
+cascade of Prince Regent's River; which we entered the next afternoon,
+with the wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage
+at the bottom of St. George's Basin, a mile and a half to the northward
+of the islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven
+fathoms muddy sand.
+
+July 26.
+
+The following morning at half-past four o'clock Mr. Montgomery
+accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached it at
+nine o'clock and found the water, to our inexpressible satisfaction,
+falling abundantly.
+
+While the boat's crew rested and filled their baricas, I ascended the
+rocks over which the water was falling and was surprised to find its
+height had been so underrated when we passed by it last year: it was then
+thought to be about forty feet, but I now found it could not be less than
+one hundred and fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is
+disposed in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of
+which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a
+continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty in
+climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great we assisted
+our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the luxuriant moss that
+grew abundantly about the water-courses. On reaching the summit, I found
+that the fall was supplied from a stream winding through rugged chasms
+and thickly-matted clusters of plants and trees, among which the pandanus
+bore a conspicuous appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the
+place. While admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined
+me; we did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a
+hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused among
+rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source. After collecting
+for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by sickness, a few
+specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared the most novel, we
+commenced our descent, and reached the bottom in safety; by which time
+the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we set off immediately on our return
+with a view of arriving on board by low-water, in order that no time
+might be lost in sending the boats up with our empty water-casks.
+
+During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the effects of
+his fall, had obtained the sun's meridional altitude upon the islet at
+the entrance of the river, which gave 15 degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds
+for its latitude, differing from the plan of last year by only fifteen
+seconds.
+
+July 27.
+
+The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but as the
+ebb-tide ran until after four o'clock it was late at night before they
+reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by running upon the
+sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are very numerous and form a
+narrow winding channel of not more than twelve feet deep; these banks are
+dry at low-water, and are composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At
+midnight, as soon as the launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not
+take more than half an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the
+vessel with orders to return the following night for another load, and in
+the meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of which
+we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade.
+
+July 28.
+
+We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next morning, on
+account of the shoalness of the channel.
+
+For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its character or
+course: its windings were only just sufficient to intercept a clear view;
+for so direct was its course, that from this part the high round hill
+near the entrance was seen midway between the hills that form the banks
+of the river.
+
+Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into a rapid
+amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the stream was running at
+the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel was instantly dropped, which
+had the effect of reversing the boat's head. After this the grapnel was
+weighed, and by very great exertions we extricated ourselves from the
+rapid, and then landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east
+bank, where the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we
+penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank near the
+rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide falling over a
+barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water confines the fresh water
+above this place; a few minutes afterwards it was high-water, and the
+tide suddenly ceased to run; when the water became quite smooth and
+motionless.
+
+A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what
+occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the rapid,
+by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of extending our
+knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore re-embarked, and,
+passing the rapid, pulled up the river against the tide for a mile
+farther, where it was suddenly terminated by a beautiful fresh-water
+rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream was so great a contrast to the
+thick, muddied water we had so long been pulling through that it was a
+most gratifying sight, and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and
+exertions. The fresh water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle
+fall over rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them,
+we had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain of
+returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the stream
+rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at this second fall
+appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards in breadth: its farther
+course was lost sight of by a sharp turn, first to the North-East, and
+then to the South-East, between high and rocky hills.
+
+Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other plants were
+growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but unhappily the sterile and
+rocky appearance of the country was some alloy to the satisfaction we
+felt at the first sight of the fresh water; as we did not, however,
+expect to find a good country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and
+we set off on our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our
+labours: we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea.
+
+The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first falls, but
+there was no appearance of that violence which we witnessed in the
+morning; probably because the stream had not reached its strength.
+
+An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards of the
+boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was uselessly
+fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the water is very
+deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble a branch of a tree
+floating with the tide; the snout, the eye, and some of the ridges of the
+back and tail being the only parts that are seen. The animal that we
+fired at was noticed for some time, but considered to be only a dead
+branch, although we were looking out for alligators, and approached
+within six yards of it before we found out our mistake: the length of
+this animal was from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have
+ever seen one more than twenty feet long.
+
+We reached the cascade by four o'clock and remained there until our boats
+arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at midnight; as soon as
+the casks were filled, we set off on our return, but did not reach the
+brig until eight o'clock in the morning.
+
+July 29.
+
+The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this place were
+so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of completing it now. We
+had obtained, by the two trips, enough to last until the end of October,
+which, with the chance of finding more upon other parts of the coast, was
+sufficient for our intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore
+hoisted in, and preparations made to leave the anchorage.
+
+The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with mullet; and
+porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a distance of fifty
+miles from the sea. A curious species of mud-fish (chironectes sp.
+Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious nature, and something similar to what
+we have frequently before seen; these were, however, much larger, being
+about nine inches long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that
+were exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish, sporting
+about, and running at each other with open mouths; but as we approached,
+they so instantaneously buried themselves in the soft mud that their
+disappearance seemed the effect of magic: upon our retiring and
+attentively watching the spot, these curious animals would re-appear as
+suddenly as they had before vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden
+were their motions that they generally escaped; two or three only were
+procured, which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state
+to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral and
+ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required, they make a
+hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud, the pectoral fins
+are used like legs, upon which they move very quickly; but nothing can
+exceed the instantaneous movement by which they disappear. Those that
+were shot were taken on board, but on account of the extreme heat of the
+weather they had become so putrefied as to be totally unfit for
+preservation.
+
+July 30.
+
+The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in the narrow
+part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a remarkable division
+in its centre, through which the high-tide flows, and gives it the
+appearance of being two islands. It was on this occasion that we explored
+Halfway Bay, where we were fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in
+which we also discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was
+found to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that
+forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called after the
+late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has also been given to
+a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a prominent rank in the botany
+of this country. The strait, in which the tide was running at the rate of
+six or seven knots, was not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide;
+but in one part it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of
+rocks that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally
+have communicated with the opposite shore.
+
+We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of Greville
+Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and walked a few
+hundred yards round the point, to examine the course of the strait; but
+the way was so rugged, and we had so little time to spare, that we soon
+re-embarked and returned into Halfway Bay. The geological character of
+the island is a red-coloured, coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone,
+disposed in horizontal strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised
+quartz. The surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil,
+producing a variety of shrubs and plants.
+
+After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays opposite to
+Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with mangroves that no
+landing could be effected in any part. In both bays there is anchorage
+between the heads; but all the inner part is very shoal, and perhaps at
+low water there is not more than nine feet water within the heads. In the
+mid-stream of the river the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of
+shells over which, on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs
+with great strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms
+numerous eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable.
+
+During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former watering-place, at
+the back of St. Andrew's Island, and on his return landed upon the sandy
+beach of a bay on the south-west side of the basin, but was unsuccessful
+in his search for water at both places.
+
+The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the fires that had
+been burning for the last three days in several places upon the low land,
+and on the sides of the hills to the westward of Mount Trafalgar; before
+night they had all joined, and, spreading over the tops of the hills for
+a space of three miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent
+effect.
+
+1821. August 1.
+
+At half past five o'clock the next morning we were under sail but, the
+breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage under Greville
+Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned against us. It was purposed
+to remain only during the flood; but, on examination, the place was found
+to be so well adapted for the purpose of procuring some lunar distances
+with the sun, to correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay,
+that we determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant
+on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed to
+complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in taking
+observations upon a convenient station on the north point of the bay
+within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with shrubs, and
+separated from the easternmost point of Greville Island by a very shoal
+and rocky channel.
+
+During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way to it we
+landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles, which was found
+to be more extensive than had been suspected, and to embrace the group of
+small rocks, which at high-water only just show their summits above the
+water; at high-tide there is at least fifteen feet water over it, but
+being low-water when we landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found
+several varieties of coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.;
+Caryophylla fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only
+shell that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam.
+(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its extremity, as
+also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we landed upon a small
+verdant-looking grassy mound, the northernmost islet of the group; but we
+found the verdure of its appearance was caused only by the abundance of
+the spinifex, through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in
+travelling. After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked
+and pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the
+strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then flowing was
+running in a contrary direction to what was expected from the hypothesis
+we had formed, we began to suspect some other communication with the sea,
+and in this we were not deceived; for a narrow but a very deep strait
+opened suddenly to our view, at the bottom of the Water, through which
+some of the islands in the offing were recognised. In pulling through we
+had kept close to the south shore, that we might not miss the
+communication with Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we
+passed by without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of
+the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea was not
+seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and would also have
+escaped our observation had not the channel been so direct that the sea
+horizon was exposed to our view. At the bottom of this arm are two deep
+bays which were partially but sufficiently examined. In most parts of
+Munster Water there is good anchorage amongst several small rocky
+islands, on one of which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw
+nothing to repay us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the
+surface was composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when
+trod upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular face
+of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the acacias and
+other trees that were firmly rooted in the interstices of the
+less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from being precipitated with
+them. On our return we passed through the channel on the west side of the
+Midway Isles which we found to be very deep and the stream very strong.
+
+August 4.
+
+The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates Greville Island,
+and found that it communicated with Munster Water at a part where we had
+yesterday concluded it likely to exist, and had in consequence steered
+towards it; but as we proceeded the probability became less and less, and
+we gave up the search when we were within three hundred yards of being
+actually in it.
+
+We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the strait to sea;
+and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which projects off the west head
+of the strait, found that we were at the entrance of the bight, which was
+last year named Hanover Bay: after taking a set of bearings, we
+re-embarked and proceeded to the bottom of the bay which terminated in a
+shoal basin.
+
+On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which bore the
+appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream; being low-water,
+there was not in many parts sufficient depth to float the boat; but after
+pulling up for half a mile, a muddy channel was found, which, at the end
+of another half mile, was terminated by a bed of rocks over which the
+tide flows at high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks
+which are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to extend
+to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of the boat was
+prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell and two of the boat's
+crew were despatched to examine a place farther on, where, from the green
+appearance of the trees, it was thought not unlikely that there might be
+a fresh stream. In this they were not disappointed, for after much delay
+and trouble, from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned
+with two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of
+considerable size.
+
+In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly over the
+mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it and did not
+afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small kangaroos were seen
+skipping about the rocks, but they were very shy, and fled the moment
+they saw us.
+
+Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an opportunity of
+increasing our stock of water, as well as presenting a sandy beach on
+which we could haul the seine, it was determined that we should visit it
+as soon as the brig could be moved out of Prince Regent's River.
+
+On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed in the
+morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner side of the
+island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster Water, but were
+unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh water.
+
+August 6.
+
+At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of wind from the
+southward, to leave Prince Regent's River; but notwithstanding the vessel
+was under all sail she was very nearly thrown upon Lammas Island by the
+tide, which was setting with great strength through the shoal passage
+between it and Sight Point: as we passed without it we were not more than
+five yards from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig
+was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide and
+whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the body of the
+largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty on which side of it
+the tide would drift us: when we were about three hundred yards from the
+island the direction of the stream changed and carried us round its
+south-east side, at about two hundred yards from the shore, but close to
+the low rocks off its east end, on which we landed two days since. We
+were under great anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which
+there could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our
+fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly round
+it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only five minutes,
+but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction of the Rothsay and
+Munster Waters with the main stream. The vessel was at times unmanageable
+from the violent whirlpools through which we passed, and was more than
+once whirled completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of
+a similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as quickly
+braced round.
+
+Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried us out of
+the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost of the outer
+isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard calling to us, and Bundell
+returned their shout, but it was some time before we could discern them
+on account of the very rugged nature of the island: at last three Indians
+were observed standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but,
+as the tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of
+hearing.
+
+Soon after one o'clock the brig was anchored at about half a mile off the
+sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half flood) muddy bottom.
+The boats were immediately hoisted out and sent up the river, but the
+tide was ebbing and the difficulty of filling the casks so great that,
+after great labour, we only procured a puncheon of water. The launch was
+moored without the rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed
+the baricas to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get
+within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had to carry
+the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that distance, which
+made the work laborious and slow; still however it was much less
+distressing than the fatigue of watering from the cascade in Prince
+Regent's River. At night a successful haul of the seine supplied our
+people with abundance of fish, among which were mullets weighing from
+three to five pounds; cavallos, whitings, silver fish, breams, and two
+species of guard-fish.
+
+August 7.
+
+While our people were employed the next morning in washing the decks,
+they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight o'clock they
+were again heard and at ten o'clock they were close by; shortly
+afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen standing on the
+rocks waving their arms. Being curious to communicate with the
+inhabitants of this part of the coast, since we had not seen any between
+this and Vansittart Bay, a party consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell,
+Mr. Baskerville, and myself, went on shore to the place where the natives
+were seated waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on
+these occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the boat,
+and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship, which the
+natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our approach. On
+landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men were standing, when we
+found that the woman had walked away: upon our approach they retired a
+few paces and evidently eyed us in a distrustful manner; but, as they had
+dropped their spears, and repeated the sign of peace that we had made to
+them, we did not hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the
+boat's crew to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined
+them they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our presenting
+them with some of the fish that we had caught the preceding evening they
+dropped their spears and immediately returned us something in exchange;
+one gave a belt, made of opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the
+tallest of the two, gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short
+stick about eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of
+presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us, and, to
+strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped knife, after showing
+him its use, the possession of which appeared to give him great pleasure.
+
+By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the latter
+gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol concealed under his
+coat and carried a fish which he held out for them to take; but, as they
+would not approach us nearer than two or three yards, he threw it towards
+them, when the shortest native picked it up. Upon this accession to our
+numbers they began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up
+their spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary movement
+we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I then, with a view
+to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the knife, which he put into
+my hands without showing the least reluctance, upon which he was again
+instructed how to open and shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying,
+only served to increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet,
+which he instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very
+suspicious manner.
+
+We were at this time about three or four yards from the natives, who were
+talking to each other in a most animated way, and evidently intent upon
+some object; and, as it appeared probable that, if we remained any
+longer, a rupture would ensue, it was proposed that our party should
+retire to the boat, under the idea that they would follow us down; no
+sooner, however, had we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs
+to descend the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous
+manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke and fell
+harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown by the tallest
+man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the natives then, without
+waiting to throw their second spears, made off, closely pursued by
+Bundell, who had armed himself with the broken spear; but they were out
+of sight in a moment, and, by the time that the muskets were brought to
+our assistance, were doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however,
+commenced, but our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky
+nature of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the
+shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the boat, to
+which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried, complaining of
+great weakness from loss of blood.
+
+Upon examining Mr. Montgomery's wound, which unfortunately was in such a
+part of his body that he could not himself inspect it, it appeared that
+the spear had penetrated about three inches; and, from the quantity of
+extravasated blood, great fears were entertained that he had received a
+very serious internal injury. The wound, from which he was suffering very
+great pain, was dressed according to his instructions, but it was several
+days before he considered himself out of danger.
+
+August 8.
+
+The next morning at eleven o'clock a native was seen on a float, or
+catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait, and another man,
+a woman, and a child, were observed on the rocks, who, in less than a
+quarter of an hour, came down to the spot where we met them yesterday,
+and began to wave and call to us. An opportunity now offered of punishing
+these wretches for their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them
+in their present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some
+mischief. Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran,
+which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst another
+boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter arrived near the
+shore, they were sitting on the rock and inviting us to land; but it was
+necessary to convince them that we were not so defenceless as they
+imagined, and, as soon as we were sufficiently near, several muskets were
+fired over their heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the
+other made off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder,
+and was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made
+several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared above the
+rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket was fired to
+prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up, and, leaping upon the
+rock with a violent effort, was instantaneously out of sight.
+
+As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where the natives
+had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing by the place. Upon
+the beach we found two catamarans, or floats, on each of which a large
+bundle of spears was tied with ligatures of bark; and on searching about
+the grass we soon found and secured all their riches, consisting of
+water-baskets, tomahawks, spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks,
+fishing-lines, and thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large
+size, and very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone
+curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a
+throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching the
+catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were towed round
+by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives, whilst a party
+walked over land to examine the place. On the way several spears were
+discovered placed ready for use on their retreat to the beach, where,
+from the quantity collected, they evidently intended to make a stand;
+supposing no doubt from our appearance yesterday that we were
+defenceless, and would therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock,
+behind which the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and
+Bundell, who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder.
+We traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border of a
+mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the marks of their
+feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then gave up the pursuit,
+and went on board.
+
+Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron hoop was
+found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had used for the
+purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have been left by us last
+year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly attracted our attention was a
+small bundle of bark, tied up with more than usual care; upon opening it
+we found it contained several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously
+made of stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated
+by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most surprising way;
+the serratures were evidently made by a sharp stroke with some
+instrument, but it was effected without leaving the least mark of the
+blow: the stone was covered with red pigment, and appeared to be a flinty
+slate. These spear-heads were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in
+which they were preserved plainly showed their value, for each was
+separated by strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering
+of fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very
+fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one of these
+truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made of the same
+stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a few blows serve to
+chop off the branch of a tree.
+
+The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed together to a
+frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are bouyant enough to carry
+two natives, besides their spears and baskets. A representation of this
+mode of conveyance is also given in Woodcut 1.
+
+These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had before seen;
+the tallest must have been at least six feet two inches high; their
+bodies were scarred all over; their teeth perfect, and they were quite
+naked. The shorter native had his hair collected into a knob at the top
+of his head, which gave him a ferocious appearance. The punishment they
+so justly received will make them respect in future the formidable nature
+of our arms.
+
+At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen fish,
+principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the beach to
+prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not show themselves.
+
+August 9.
+
+On the following day we again heard them shouting and hallooing but it
+was some time before we could observe their situation; at last five were
+discovered by the aid of a telescope, seated on the summit of a hill
+behind the beach, occupied in making spears; at a little distance were
+two others, one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had
+escaped unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a
+tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear. During the
+time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed to us; no notice
+was however taken of their cries, although the temptation was very great
+of firing a shot over their heads to show them that they were still
+within our reach. As soon as they had finished their work and had made
+about a dozen spears, they all got up and walked away.
+
+After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not unlikely that
+they would attack our people at the watering-place; the party were
+therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed, but the natives did not
+make their appearance, and the boats returned at sunset without having
+been disturbed. The tide was so trifling and the difficulty of loading
+the boat so great that only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as
+we were not likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the
+spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and made
+preparations to leave the bay.
+
+August 10.
+
+On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the morning, I sent
+for another turn of water but only obtained enough for one day's issue;
+for the tide did not rise more than four feet. In the meantime I visited
+the extreme point on the west side of the bay, and examined in my way
+some openings in the land that, from their appearance, promised to afford
+water: as it was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked
+up by banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher, and
+I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I was again
+stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places must afford
+abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and perhaps are seldom
+without; and, as this was a year of unusual drought, it is not improbable
+that the river in which we watered generally afforded a very considerable
+stream; if so, from its proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great
+importance, and is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be
+procured at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish
+at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being protected
+from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front the bay. There is
+also abundance of wood that may be cut close to the waterside.
+
+Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward as the
+meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in putting into Hanover
+Bay, and remaining there until the wind should veer round: by which they
+would avoid the necessity of beating to windward, over such dangerous
+ground as extends between this part to Timor; and, by being to the
+southward, out of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end
+of February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east winds
+prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their passage to the
+westward.
+
+The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21
+seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our observatory at Careening
+Bay, which makes its longitude 124 degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of
+Greenwich.
+
+August 11.
+
+The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at the
+distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After passing round
+the western head, we entered a deep opening, and, running into it for
+some distance between a rocky shore on either side, came into an
+extensive basin, in the centre of which was a high island which we saw at
+a distance last year, and then called the Lump, from its shape. As a set
+of bearings from this island was desirable, the vessel was anchored
+abreast of it at about a mile and a half from the shore; having landed
+upon it in time to observe the sun's meridional altitude in the
+artificial horizon, we ascended its summit and obtained the desired
+bearings; we also discovered Freycinet's Island on the horizon, bearing
+North 13 degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by
+its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies in the
+centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels are formed; the
+westernmost has several patches of rocks in it, but the eastern one,
+which we used, appeared to be clear and free from danger, excepting a
+rocky shelf projecting from the eastern shore for not more than three
+quarters of a mile. In the afternoon we examined the former, and from a
+summit at the south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained
+another set of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a
+deep passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the eastern
+channel.
+
+Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to examine an
+opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported to be a strait,
+trending round to the South-West for six miles, beyond which his view was
+intercepted by the next projecting point. The strait, which he called
+after Captain R.H. Rogers, R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry
+reefs of great extent.
+
+August 12.
+
+On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this place, which,
+on account of the day, was honoured with the name of our most gracious
+king, Port George the Fourth.
+
+August 13.
+
+The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having to beat
+against the wind, made no further progress than an anchorage off Point
+Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in the Mermaid; it is the north
+end of the land that forms the west side of Port George the Fourth, which
+was afterwards called Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there
+appeared to be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point
+Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in the
+meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the point and the
+islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr. Roe's report, however,
+of the appearance of the inner part among the islands was not so
+favourable, for it is studded over with numerous extensive reefs, which,
+being low water, were exposed to view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad
+separation between two islands to the south-west, but more to the
+westward the islands were so numerous that very little information as to
+their shape or number could be obtained.
+
+August 14.
+
+At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a moderate
+land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West, and passed round
+the islands. Very far to the northward on the sea horizon we saw a
+sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers; and more to the westward was an
+island, which was at first supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of
+Captain Baudin, but which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain
+Heywood's Red Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently
+quite barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading between
+some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it appeared to be free
+from danger, we purposed to steer through. The brig entered it at noon,
+when it was high-water, and as she advanced and reached the narrow part,
+the ebb-tide was setting so strong against us that, although we were
+sailing five knots by the log, we were losing ground; we continued
+however to persevere for three hours and a half, and had run nearly
+twenty miles by the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died
+away, and not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage,
+but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so that we
+lost all the progress that we had gained since noon.
+
+August 15.
+
+The next morning, after taking angles from the sun's rising amplitude, we
+got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make another attempt to
+pass through it. The view that was obtained yesterday evening from the
+masthead before we put about to look for anchorage, induced us to suppose
+that many reefs existed in the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for
+one of very extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end
+of the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end of
+that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which either
+embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else the channels are
+narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our favour, carried us quickly
+forward: as we passed on we heard the voices of natives and soon
+afterwards perceived two standing on a hill; our course was, however, so
+rapid that we were soon out of sight of them; their fires were seen
+yesterday but then they did not make their appearance.
+
+The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait, meeting the
+ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the South-East, formed many
+strong ripplings, which to a stranger would have been a frightful vortex
+to have entered, and although we had lately been accustomed to such
+appearances, yet we did not encounter them without some fear. After
+clearing them we sounded on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather
+was so thick and hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored
+in seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait.
+
+In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was still too thick
+for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all the evening, which was
+profitably spent in bringing up the chart; a little before sunset the
+weather cleared and afforded a good view of the land, which to the
+South-East is composed principally of islands, but so numerous that the
+mainland could not be distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards
+called Point Hall, round which the land trended to the southward, bore
+from the anchorage South 19 degrees East.
+
+The direction of the tides, the flood setting South-South-East, and the
+ebb North-North-West and North-West, induced me to suppose that the
+opening to the eastward of the bay we were at anchor in, which was called
+Camden, in compliment to the noble Marquess, was not only connected with
+Rogers Strait, but was also the outlet of another considerable river or
+bay.
+
+At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than a mile and
+a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell thirty-seven feet, which
+is the greatest rise and fall we had yet found; it is probable, from the
+intricate nature of the coast, that these high tides are common to all
+this neighbourhood.
+
+August 16.
+
+At five o'clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night the wind
+sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but misty weather
+immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded our view. The breeze
+was too fresh for us to continue at anchor, we therefore got underweigh,
+and made sail by the wind; but upon standing across the channel and
+finding that the flood-tide set to the South-West, we bore away, and,
+passing round Point Hall, steered to the southward towards some low
+islands that were just visible through the haze, and which, being
+disposed in a group, were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon
+of the Bathurst.
+
+At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44 minutes 16
+seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as South 30 degrees
+West, but from the masthead at one o'clock it was seen as far as South 50
+degrees West, and a long low island, the westernmost of Montgomery Isles,
+bore from South-West by West to South-West by South. The group besides
+this contained six other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned
+with bushes: as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky
+ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would not be
+more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between Point Hall and
+these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as the group appeared to be
+connected by reefs, we steered off to pass round them; the wind, however,
+changing to the westward, detained us all the evening near them.
+
+The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be much
+broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had only one anchor
+to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr. Montgomery's request, in
+compliment to the late Captain Sir George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N.
+During the greater part of the night the wind was light, and by the
+bearings of a fire on the land we were making but little drift.
+
+August 17.
+
+At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12 degrees 22
+minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which very extensive reefs
+were seen extending between the bearings of South and South-West by West.
+They were called Cockells Isles. We passed round their north end over a
+bottom of hard sand, mixed with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which
+we found an irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than
+twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun appeared
+above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped in mist. At eight
+o'clock we ventured to steer more southerly, but continued to sound over
+a rocky bottom until ten o'clock, when the islands bore South-East; we
+then steered South-West through a muddy channel with the flood tide in
+our favour, towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off,
+became visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also seen
+bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15 degrees 50
+minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the east head of which
+was formed by several islands. The land at the back appeared to be of
+tolerable height but its outline was so level, that it did not present
+any prominent feature sufficiently defined to take a bearing of more than
+once; its coast appeared to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be
+very much intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable
+openings.
+
+The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our ascertaining the
+particular feature of the country; it seemed to be rocky and very bare of
+vegetation; but they were some parts, particularly on one of the islands
+to the eastward at the entrance of Collier's Bay, where a few good-sized
+trees were growing over a sandy beach.
+
+The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being light, we were
+making no progress. As sunset approached, we began to look for anchorage;
+but the suspicious nature of the bottom and the great depth of the water
+prevented our being successful until some time after dark; the anchor was
+at last dropped in twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with
+the ebb-tide setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots.
+
+Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs were playing
+about us all day, and during the morning two or three were seen near the
+vessel lashing the water with their enormous fins and tails, and leaping
+at intervals out of the sea, which foamed around them for a considerable
+distance.
+
+After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the western quarter
+but during the night there was a heavy swell. The flood-tide, which
+commenced at nine o'clock, when the depth was twenty-eight fathoms,
+gradually ran stronger until midnight, when its rate was two miles per
+hour: high-water took place at 3 hours 15 minutes a.m., or at twelve
+minutes before the moon passed her meridian; the rise being thirty-six
+feet.
+
+August 18.
+
+We were underweigh before six o'clock the next morning, and after
+steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward (on which
+course the tide being against us we were making no progress) bore up with
+the intention of hauling round the point to leeward for anchorage, whence
+we might examine the place by the means of our boats, and wait for more
+favourable weather; but upon reaching within half a mile of the point we
+found that a shoal communication extended across to a string of islands
+projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction: in mid
+channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the water it is more
+than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the whole distance across
+the strait; but this appearance, from the experience we afterwards had of
+the navigation of this part, might have been produced by tide ripplings,
+occasioned by the rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in
+its passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and
+dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in the event
+of accident.
+
+Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of steering round
+the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine o'clock were two miles
+North-East by East from the small island 18, when our latitude by
+observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds; the depth being
+thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of coral mixed with sand, mud, and
+shells.
+
+To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of islands was
+another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we hauled to the wind
+for the night, off the northernmost island which afterwards proved to be
+the Caffarelli Island of Captain Baudin. Between these two ranges of
+islands we only obtained one cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three
+fathoms on a coral bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this
+part of the coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef
+(Brue Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the night
+was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious, fearing lest there
+might be others in its neighbourhood.
+
+August 19.
+
+At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and shortly
+afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef; it appeared to be
+partly dry but of small extent.
+
+We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile and a half
+from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards endeavoured to
+steer between the range of islands, of which Caffarelli is the
+northernmost, and a group of rocky isles, marked 33; but finding we could
+not succeed from the scanty direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh
+breeze from South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and
+then steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the
+principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round its
+south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the direction of
+our course, we tacked off to pass round the west extremity of the group,
+towards two small low islands, 50 and 51, that were seen in the distance
+bearing about South 84 degrees West. The tide, having been before in our
+favour, was now against us, and, setting with great strength, drove us
+near the rocks that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the
+wind was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the dangerous
+situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it fell to a light
+air and we were carried by the tide rapidly towards the low rocky
+extremity of the islets, which we were nearly thrown upon, when a breeze
+suddenly sprung up again from the South-East and enabled us to clear this
+impending danger. We were now drifting to the South by East through a
+wide channel, sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom.
+Had the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could have
+run through, and taken our chance of finding either anchorage or an open
+sea; and although this would certainly have been hazarding a great risk,
+yet it was of very little consequence in what part of the archipelago we
+spent the night, as the spots which we might consider to be the most
+dangerous might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we
+were perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await patiently
+its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in.
+
+By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a quarter past
+four o'clock; every minute therefore after that time was passed by us
+most anxiously. Every now and then we were in the midst of the most
+violent ripplings and whirlpools, which sometimes whirled the vessel
+round and round, to the danger of our masts. Five o'clock at last arrived
+and the tide-eddies ceased, but the stream continued to run until a
+quarter of an hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out
+slowly. To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze
+sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been drifted
+back through the deepest part of the channel, over the same ground that
+the flood had carried us in: we however made sail and beat out, and
+before dark had made considerable progress; we then lost sight of the
+land until eleven o'clock when some was seen to the eastward: at
+half-past eleven we had a dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the
+tide had begun to flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then
+ascertained to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly
+heard to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and
+more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our position
+was very much more favourable than we had conjectured; for, by bearings
+of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I found we were at least
+two or three miles from the shore of the latter.
+
+August 20.
+
+A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears by the
+sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and in a moment
+found ourselves comparatively out of danger.
+
+At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of Caffarelli Island;
+whence we steered to the South-West by West and South-South-West. Brue
+Reef was seen as we passed by it. At noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14
+minutes 1 second, Cape Leveque bearing South.
+
+From noon until one o'clock we were steering South-South-West, but made
+no progress, on account of an adverse tide which occasionally formed such
+strong eddies and ripplings that we were several times obliged to steer
+off to get without their influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and
+presents a sandy beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for
+a mile, on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was
+clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast presented a
+very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the triste and arid
+character of the North-West Cape.
+
+On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found Cape Leveque
+to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on his buccaneering
+voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: "We fell in with the land of New
+Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran in close by it, and finding no
+convenient anchoring, because it lies open to the North-West, we ran
+along shore to the eastward, steering North-East by East, for so the land
+lies. We steered thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of
+land, from whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve
+leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to the
+eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with abundance of
+islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore.
+About a league to the eastward of that point we anchored in twenty-nine
+fathom, good hard sand and clean ground." He then proceeds to say: "This
+part of it (the coast) that we saw is all low, even land, with sandy
+banks against the sea, only the points are rocky, and so are some of the
+islands in the bay."*
+
+(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.)
+
+From this description I have little hesitation in settling Cape Leveque
+to be the point he passed round. In commemoration, therefore, of his
+visit, the name of Buccaneer's Archipelago was given to the cluster of
+isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was so-called after the name of the
+ship in which he sailed. The point within Cape Leveque was named Point
+Swan after the Captain of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the
+centre of the Archipelago the name of Dampier's Monument was assigned.
+During the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands
+upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not improbable
+but that there may be as many more behind them.
+
+Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier before we
+passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored in it for the wind
+was blowing strong from the northward, and a heavy swell was rolling,
+which would have placed us in rather a dangerous situation, besides its
+being exposed to easterly winds, which for the last two or three days had
+blown very strong. During the time we had been among these islands, we
+had not met with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without
+the almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so very
+thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the vessel's
+situation could be at all distinguished; and these disadvantages, added
+to the great strength of the wind and the rapidity of the tides, had
+materially prevented us from making ourselves better acquainted with the
+place. It is remarkable that as soon as we passed round the Champagny
+Isles, hazy weather commenced, and continued without intermission until
+we were to the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same
+thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first voyage, they
+laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when it is only a sandy
+island about two or three miles long. No natives were seen on any of the
+islands but there were many large smokes on the horizon at the back of
+Cygnet Bay.
+
+We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing duty.
+One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with bilious or feverish
+attacks, and we had never been altogether free from sickness since our
+arrival upon the coast. Mr. Montgomery's wound was, however, happily
+quite healed, and Mr. Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr.
+Cunningham, who had been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived
+in Careening Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east
+coast, the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent's River, and
+our constant harassing employment during the examination of the coast
+between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced their bad effects upon
+the constitutions of our people. Every means were taken to prevent
+sickness: preserved meats were issued two days in the week in lieu of
+salt provisions; and this diet, with the usual proportions of lemon-juice
+and sugar, proved so good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling
+exceptions, no case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered
+much from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these
+vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball cartridges, we
+found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the number quite destroyed, and
+the remainder so injured as to be quite useless.
+
+August 21.
+
+The following day we made very little progress, from light winds in the
+morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At sunset we anchored
+at about four miles from the shore, in seventeen fathoms sandy ground.
+
+During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number of whales,
+leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with their fins; the noise
+of which, from the calmness and perfect stillness of the air, was as loud
+as the report of a volley of musketry. Some remorae were also swimming
+about the vessel the whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a
+yellowish brown colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon
+seeing the vessel.
+
+August 22.
+
+High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes after six
+o'clock, at which time we got underweigh with a moderate land-breeze from
+South-South-East, and steered to the southward along the shore. At noon
+we were in latitude 16 degrees 30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing
+South 42 1/2 degrees East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from
+the northward and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward
+along the coast which is low and sandy. At three o'clock we were abreast
+of a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the French
+as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained, with the
+alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of Cape Borda the
+coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of which was visible from
+our masthead and appeared to be composed of sand-downs. From Point
+Emeriau the coast trends to the south-west, and preserves the same sandy
+character. At five o'clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain
+Baudin, were in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight
+fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are three in
+number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and other sea-fowl:
+they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned with a few shrubby
+bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed to be of great extent.
+
+August 23.
+
+The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a sandy
+projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of the midshipman
+of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape Baskerville the coast trends
+in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then takes a southerly direction. It is here
+that Tasman landed, according to the following extract from Dalrymple's
+Papua: "In Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121
+degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people, with
+curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and arrows,
+hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of fifty, double
+armed, dividing themselves into two parties, intending to have surprised
+the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five men; but the firing of guns
+frightened them so, that they fled. Their proas are made of the bark of
+trees; their coast is dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use
+no houses."
+
+At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At four
+o'clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin's Point Coulomb, which M. De
+Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the Red Cliffs
+commence. The interior is here higher than to the northward, and
+gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles from the shore, to wooded
+hills, and bears a more pleasing and verdant appearance than we have seen
+for some time past; but the coast still retains the same sandy and
+uninviting character. During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze
+from the westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen
+fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large flocks
+of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their course towards
+the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the direction of the Whale Bank,
+which, according to the French chart of this part, lies in the offing to
+the westward. As no island was noticed by us in the position assigned to
+Captain Baudin's Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape
+Baskerville has received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed
+at intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which it
+may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous. Captain
+Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky islands to the
+eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint style, gives the subjoined
+interesting account of them:
+
+"The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in the world.
+The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people, yet for wealth are
+gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and skin garments, sheep,
+poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods
+have: and setting aside their human shape, they differ but little from
+brutes. They are tall, straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs.
+They have great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids
+are always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they being
+so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one's
+face; and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off, they
+will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shut
+very close; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with these
+insects, they do never open their eyes as other people; and therefore
+they cannot see far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were
+looking at somewhat over them.
+
+"They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide mouths. The two
+fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all of them, men and women,
+old and young; whether they draw them out, I know not: neither have they
+any beards. They are long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect,
+having no one graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short
+and curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the
+common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces and the
+rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the negroes of Guinea.*
+
+(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we communicated, were
+not deprived of their front teeth, and wore their beards long; they also
+differed from the above description in having their hair long and curly.
+Dampier may have been deceived in this respect, and from the use that
+they make of their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread,
+they had probably cut it off close, which would give them the appearance
+of having woolly hair like the negro.)
+
+"They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a tree tied
+like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long grass, or three
+or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust under their girdle, to
+cover their nakedness.
+
+"They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any covering; the
+earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy. Whether they cohabit
+one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I know not; but they do live in
+companies, twenty or thirty men, women, and children together. Their only
+food is a small sort of fish, which they get by making weirs of stone
+across little coves or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the
+small fish, the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who
+constantly attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I
+take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to catch
+great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be left behind at
+low water: nor could we catch any fish with our hooks and lines all the
+while we lay there. In other places at low water they seek for cockles,
+mussels, and periwinkles. Of these shell-fish there are fewer still; so
+that their chief dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares;
+which, be it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of
+their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir abroad by
+reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their return; and what
+Providence has bestowed on them, they presently broil on the coals, and
+eat it in common. Sometimes they get as many fish as makes them a
+plentiful banquet; and at other times they scarce get every one a taste;
+but be it little or much that they get, every one has his part, as well
+the young and tender, the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad,
+as the strong and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next
+low water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day, rain
+or shine, 'tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else they must
+fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There is neither herb,
+root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to eat, that we saw; nor any
+sort of bird or beast that they can catch, having no instruments
+wherewithal to do so.
+
+"I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor creatures
+have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight with their enemies,
+if they have any that will interfere with their poor fishery. They did at
+first endeavour with their weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore,
+deterred them from one of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden
+swords, others had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped
+somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole, sharp at one
+end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron, nor any sort of
+metal; therefore it is probable they use stone hatchets, as some Indians
+in America do, described in Chapter 4.
+
+(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume 1.)
+
+"How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians do, out of
+wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and have myself tried
+the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood that is pretty soft, and
+make a small dent in one side of it, then they take another hard, round
+stick, about the bigness of one's little finger, and sharpened at one end
+like a pencil, they put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat
+soft piece, and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm
+of their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at last
+takes fire.
+
+"These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could not
+understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said before,
+January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we presently sent a
+canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we were in hopes to get
+some provision among them. But the inhabitants, seeing our boat coming,
+run away and hid themselves. We searched afterwards three days in hopes
+to find their houses, but found none; yet we saw many places where they
+had made fires. At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we
+searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such places
+where we thought they would come. In all our search we found no water,
+but old wells on the sandy bays.
+
+"At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a great many of
+the natives; I do believe there were forty on one island, men, women, and
+children. The men on our first coming ashore, threatened us with their
+lances and swords; but they were frightened by firing one gun, which we
+fired purposely to scare them. The island was so small that they could
+not hide themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing,
+especially the women and children; for we went directly to their camp.
+The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran away howling,
+and the little children run after squeaking and bawling; but the men
+stood still. Some of the women, and such people as could not go from us,
+lay still by a fire, making a doleful noise, as if we had been coming to
+devour them: but when they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were
+pretty quiet, and the rest that fled from us at our first coming,
+returned again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few
+boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of.
+
+"After we had been here a little while, the men began to be familiar, and
+we clothed some of them, designing to have some service of them for it;
+for we found some wells of water here, and intended to carry two or three
+barrels of it aboard. But it being somewhat troublesome to carry to the
+canoes, we thought to have made these men to have carried it for us, and
+therefore we gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches,
+to another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce worth
+owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some places where we
+had been, and so we thought they might have been with these people. We
+put them on them, thinking that this finery would have brought them to
+work heartily for us; and our water being filled in small long barrels,
+about six gallons in each, which were made purposely to carry water in,
+we brought these our new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each
+of their shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we
+could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues, without
+motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one upon another; for
+these poor creatures seem not accustomed to carry burdens; and I believe
+that one of our ship-boys of ten years old would carry as much as one of
+them. So we were forced to carry our water ourselves, and they very
+fairly put the clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were
+only to work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to
+them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we had.
+
+"At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking for game,
+espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to another; for they
+have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took four of them, and brought
+them aboard; two of them were middle-aged, the other two were young men
+about eighteen or twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and
+with it turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave
+them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and when they
+were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they could. At our first
+coming, before we were acquainted with them, or they with us, a company
+of them who lived on the main, came just against our ship, and standing
+on a pretty high bank, threatened us with their swords and lances, by
+shaking them at us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten,
+which was done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor
+creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could drive;
+and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry, gurry, speaking
+deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that live on the main would
+always run away from us; yet we took several of them. For, as I have
+already observed, they had such bad eyes, that they could not see us till
+we came close to them. We did always give them victuals, and let them go
+again, but the islanders, after our first time of being among them, did
+not stir for us."*
+
+(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.)
+
+At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of tide, and the
+flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was also the case at our
+anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At four o'clock the next morning a
+strong south-easterly breeze sprang up, and moderated again before we
+weighed; but no sooner were we under sail than it freshened again, and,
+at half-past five o'clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing
+the topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon the
+wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude observed was 17
+degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part of the land bore North 70
+1/2 degrees East, south of which a sandy point, supposed to be Captain
+Baudin's Cape Boileau, bore South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little
+to the northward of the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East
+must be upon the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille.
+
+Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to West-South-West, and
+enabled us to make some progress; at sunset we again anchored in thirteen
+fathoms, soft sand, at six miles from a sandy projection of the main,
+which we afterwards found to be the land called by Captain Baudin,
+Gantheaume Island; the name has therefore been given to the point, for
+there was no appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate
+appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily crowned
+with a few shrubby bushes.
+
+Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by downs of very
+white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau is a bay, which at
+first, from the direction of the flood stream at the anchorage, was
+conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide afterwards set to the
+Northward and North-East, it was concluded to be occasioned by the stream
+sweeping round the shores of the bay: according to the depth alongside
+there was a rise of ten feet; after high-water the ebb set between North
+1/2 West and North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters
+of a knot.
+
+During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and produced a
+very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so raised above the
+horizon by refraction that many distant objects became visible that could
+not otherwise have been seen. This mirage had been frequently observed by
+us on various parts of the coast, but never produced so extraordinary an
+effect as on the present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of
+high chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and the
+land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly seen at the
+distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards, the weather being
+clear, it was not visible above the horizon for more than five leagues.
+This state of the atmosphere caused a rapid evaporation during the day,
+and as the evening approached a very copious dew commenced falling, which
+by sunset was precipitated like a shower of rain.
+
+The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at seven
+o'clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed to trend
+round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had last evening seen
+it as far to the westward as South-West by South, we steered in the
+latter direction under the idea of there being no opening to the
+southward of the point, since the flood-tide flowed from it instead of
+towards it, as it naturally would have done had there been any inlet of
+consequence thereabout.
+
+As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights of boobies;
+one of the latter lighted upon the deck this afternoon, and was easily
+taken; it seemed to be the same bird (Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the
+reefs upon the north and north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday
+our progress was much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we
+were in 17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the
+sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we steered to
+the southward. The land was now visible considerably to the southward of
+Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy character; and as we
+proceeded it came in sight to the South-South-West. At sunset we anchored
+about five or six miles to the north of Captain Baudin's Cape Villaret;
+the extreme, which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his
+Cape Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the
+East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at the back
+of Point Gantheaume.
+
+The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the last, and the
+sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was throughout fine. We now
+began to experience a more considerable set of tide than we had found
+since rounding Cape Leveque, for the rate was as much as a knot and a
+half; but as the tides were neaped it only rose nine feet.
+
+At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain Dampier remarks
+that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran so strong that his
+nun-buoy would not watch: but the French expedition, at an anchorage a
+little to the southward, found the flood-tide to set South-South-East and
+to rise only nine feet, the moon being then three days past her full. All
+these particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of the
+tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the existence of
+either a strait or an opening between this and the Rosemary Islands; but
+from our experience it would appear more probable that these great tides
+are occasioned by the numerous inlets that intersect the coast between
+this and Cape Voltaire; a further examination, however, can only prove
+the real cause.
+
+August 26.
+
+At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from South-West, but
+soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide drifting us to the South-East
+the anchor was again dropped: ten minutes afterwards a land breeze from
+East-South-East sprung up, to which we again weighed, but no sooner were
+we under sail than we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the
+land, where it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven
+o'clock the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from
+our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually dispersed the
+fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing
+South 17 degrees West. At half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to
+the westward of Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the
+hill on the cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and
+Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land, slightly
+clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now unfavourable for our
+approaching the land, and after standing off to sea and then towards the
+shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms coarse sand.
+
+At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the tides than
+was experienced the night preceding; the flood set South-East by East and
+East-South-East; and the ebb from North-North-East round to
+West-North-West; the rise was sixteen feet and a half, from which it
+would appear probable that there must be some reason for so great an
+indraught of water into the bight between Cape Villaret and Point
+Gantheaume, which I have named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain
+Dampier commanded when he visited this part of the coast.
+
+As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from some
+southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow and tedious;
+and as the shore for some distance to the southward of Cape
+Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I resolved upon
+leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly expended, and our
+provisions, generally, were in a very bad state; besides which the want
+of a second anchor was so much felt that we dared not venture into any
+difficulty where the appearance of the place invited a particular
+investigation, on account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the
+strength of the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every
+consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any longer
+upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended us in our
+difficulties.
+
+August 27.
+
+Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and directed our
+course for Mauritius.
+
+1821. September 22.
+
+On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of twenty-five days we
+saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the northward. In the evening a
+fresh gale sprung up from the southward and we experienced very bad
+weather: at noon of the 24th by our calculation we were seventy-three
+miles due East from the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before
+experienced a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at
+sunset for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore.
+
+September 25.
+
+At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only
+thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island, we bore
+up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was not seen until
+noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east end, instead of the
+north point; having been set to the southward since yesterday noon at the
+rate of three quarters of a mile an hour: in consequence of which we
+determined upon going round the south side, and bore up for that purpose;
+upon approaching the land we found another current setting us to the
+north.
+
+September 26.
+
+The next morning at nine o'clock we passed round the Morne Brabant, the
+south-west point of the island, but it was four o'clock before we reached
+our anchorage (at a cable's length within the flag beacon at the entrance
+of Port Louis) in fifteen fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health
+Officer, and afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at
+anchor in the port.
+
+September 27.
+
+But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not moved until
+the following morning, when she was warped in and moored head and stern
+within the harbour.
+
+My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B. (of H.M.
+Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be performed by the
+carpenters of his ship; those articles which could not be supplied from
+the Menai's stores were advertised for in the Mauritius Gazette, when the
+most reasonable tenders were accepted.
+
+As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could be spared
+from their other occupations were daily employed upon our repairs; but
+from her being put into quarantine and other unforeseen delays they were
+not completed for nearly a month: our sails were repaired by the Menai's
+sailmakers; and, as all our running rigging was condemned and we had very
+little spare rope on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our
+wants. The greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from
+leaks, was surveyed and condemned.
+
+Captain Flinders' account of Mauritius appears to have been drawn up with
+much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the present day, so
+descriptive of the island as to be considered, both by the English and
+French residents of Port Louis, as the best that has yet been given to
+the world. Many alterations and considerable improvements have however
+taken place since his departure, and among the latter the improved system
+of the culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern
+machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These have
+been effected entirely by the political changes that have, since Captain
+Flinders' captivity, taken place in the government of the island; and by
+the example and exertions of the English, who possess very large
+plantations, and indeed may be considered now as the principal
+proprietors of the land.
+
+(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the high terms in
+which my late friend and predecessor Captain Flinders was spoken of by
+the inhabitants of this island, and their general regret at his infamous
+detention. His friend M. Pitot had lately died, but I met many French
+gentlemen who were acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was
+so much disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many
+friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled themselves
+about him; and this circumstance probably went far towards increasing the
+severity of the treatment he so unjustly received. An anecdote of him was
+related to me by a resident of Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his
+honour, I cannot lose the gratification of recording.
+
+When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d'Arifat in the district
+of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly permitted to reside upon his
+parole, an opportunity of escaping from the island was offered to him by
+the commander of a ship bound to India: it was urged to him by his
+friends that, from the tyrannical treatment he had received and the
+unjustifiable detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as
+General Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining
+his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his friends and
+country. The escape was well planned, and no chance of discovery likely
+to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis, and at night, bringing to on
+the leeward side of the island abreast of Captain Flinders' residence,
+sent a boat to the appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame
+d'Arifat's house; but after waiting until near daylight without the
+captain making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was
+obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion.
+
+It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not think it
+consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the opportunity, nor to
+effect his escape from imprisonment by a conduct so disgraceful to the
+character of a British officer and to the honourable profession to which
+he belonged.)
+
+For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island and cotton
+is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the habitans appeared
+to be given to the cultivation of the sugar cane and maize, both of which
+had begun to produce an abundant return to the planters; the manihot is
+also generally cultivated: but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to
+which this island is exposed render property of so precarious and
+doubtful a tenure that nothing is secure until the season for these
+destructive visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December
+to the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon, being
+invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in the
+barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed hurricanes: the
+last experienced before our visit was merely a coup de vent, by which
+very little damage was sustained.*
+
+(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this unfortunate island was
+again visited and laid waste by a tremendous hurricane that did very
+considerable damage, and has in a great measure destroyed the prosperous
+state which the island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long
+absence of this dreadful visitation.)
+
+The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward, side of
+the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre of low land,
+backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon which Peter Botte and the
+Pouce are conspicuous features. The streets are laid out at rightangles,
+the principal of which lead from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a
+plot of grassy land about half a mile square that intervenes between the
+town and the hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse,
+and, in fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by
+houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The
+Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops of which
+those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur et Patissier, are
+the most numerous.
+
+The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far from being
+elegant in their appearance; those however that have been lately
+constructed by our countrymen have already given the place an appearance
+of solidity that it could not boast of before, and several substantial
+stone dwellings and stones have lately been erected. The roads for seven
+or eight miles out of the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains
+Wilhelms and to Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair
+partly by Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that
+distance is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a
+steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour.
+
+At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when we were
+about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be common; besides
+which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws, grapes, the letchy (or
+let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some indifferent pineapples. The ship's
+company were supplied daily with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter
+were procured in abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine,
+particularly carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine
+flavour. Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which
+trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine season.
+
+Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of Good Hope and
+fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and seventy-seven mules arrived
+from Buenos Ayres while we were at Port Louis, which, on being sold by
+auction, averaged each one hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the
+importation of these useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered
+by the government for every mule that is brought alive to the island.
+
+The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a very great
+depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon Europe, at the time
+of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per cent, and upon silver coin
+there was a depreciation of 45 per cent.
+
+On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west coast were
+reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to the Admiralty by H.M.
+Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account of our voyage from the time
+that we parted company with the Dick, off Cape Van Diemen.
+
+No observations were taken at this place excepting for ascertaining the
+rates of the chronometers, and for the variation and dip of the magnetic
+needle: the former being 12 degrees 31 minutes West, and the latter 51
+degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The situation of the observatory has been
+long since fixed by the Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South
+latitude, and 57 degrees 29 minutes East longitude.
+
+I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to Mauritius
+without expressing my acknowledgments for the civilities and hospitality
+we received from our countrymen at Port Louis, particularly from His
+Excellency Sir Robert T. Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided
+as Governor of the Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in
+our re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship Menai,
+for which the expedition I had the honour to command is under more than a
+common professional obligation.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+Departure from Port Louis.
+Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.
+Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.
+Occurrences there.
+Visited by the Natives.
+Our intercourse with them.
+Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.
+Vocabulary of their language.
+Meteorological and other observations.
+Edible plants.
+Testaceous productions.
+
+1821. November 10.
+
+On the 10th November we were ready for sea.
+
+November 15.
+
+But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the 15th. At
+midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next evening at
+sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two days we had
+south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25 degrees, the winds
+became light and baffling with calms.
+
+November 21.
+
+But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered to east
+and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very fine weather.
+
+November 28.
+
+We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds until the
+28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47 minutes and longitude
+65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we encountered westerly winds and rough
+weather. On the whole we had a very quick passage to the coast of New
+Holland; and for the last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale
+without encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance
+worth recording.
+
+1821. December 23.
+
+On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham was in
+sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King George's Sound;
+where it was my intention to complete our wood and water previous to
+commencing the examination of the west coast. At four o'clock in the
+afternoon we hauled round Bald Head and, entering the Sound, soon
+afterwards anchored at one mile from the entrance of Princess Royal
+Harbour.
+
+December 24.
+
+Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I wished on this
+occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I was both unacquainted
+with its entrance, as well as its convenience for our purposes, excepting
+from Captain Flinders' account, I hoisted the boat out early the next
+morning, to make the necessary examination before the sea-breeze
+commenced. Whilst the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard,
+and upon our looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians
+were seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving to
+us, but no further notice than a return of their call was taken until
+after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the whale-boat. As we
+drew near the shore they came down to receive us and appeared from their
+gestures to invite our landing; but in this they were disappointed, for,
+after a little vociferation and gesture on both sides, we pulled into the
+harbour, whilst they walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the
+motions of every one of them were attentively watched it was evident that
+they were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left
+shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm exposed.
+Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied in the
+Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near enough to the
+shore to carry on our different operations without being impeded by the
+natives, even though they should be amicably disposed. Our plan was
+therefore altered and, as the anchorage formerly occupied by the Mermaid
+in the entrance of Oyster Harbour would be on all accounts more
+convenient for our purposes, I determined upon going thither.
+
+By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach where the
+boat was lying, and were wading through the water towards us; but as we
+had no wish at present to communicate with them, for fear that, by
+refusing anything we had in the boat, for which their importunity would
+perhaps be very great, a quarrel might be occasioned, we pulled off into
+deeper water where we remained for five minutes parleying with them,
+during which they plainly expressed their disappointment and
+mortification at our want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh
+water, which they instantly understood, they called out to us "badoo,
+badoo," and pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has
+marked a rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it
+was thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late
+visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word kangaroo
+was also familiar to them.*
+
+(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the vessel that joined our
+company during our passage up the east coast, visited this port in
+December 1820 and communicated with the natives; it is therefore probable
+that the above words were obtained from that vessel's crew.)
+
+Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon the beach
+abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out of the entrance,
+when they resumed their former station upon the rocks and we returned on
+board.
+
+Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a fresh
+sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour, but in
+crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and a half feet
+water, and it was some time before we succeeded in heaving her over, and
+reaching the anchorage we had occupied at our last visit. Whilst warping
+in, the natives, who had followed the vessel along the sandy beach that
+separates the two harbours, were amusing themselves near us in striking
+fish with a single barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be
+tolerably successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives
+made their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to that
+shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as unceremoniously as
+a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon its returning to the brig,
+came on board, and remained with us all the afternoon, much amused with
+everything they saw, and totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of
+our visitors was covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were
+laid aside upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty
+of which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite
+shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly vociferous
+in their request to be sent for also; but unfortunately for them it was
+the lee shore, so that no boat went near them; and as we did not wish to
+be impeded by having so many on the deck at one time, their request was
+not acceded to and by degrees they separated and retired in different
+directions.
+
+As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went ashore,
+evidently charged with some message from the other native, but as he
+voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile was suspected; we therefore
+landed and dug a hole three feet deep among the grass about two yards
+above the highest tide-mark, for water; but it was found to be so highly
+coloured and muddy as it flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand
+nearer the edge of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved
+to be of a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered
+through the sand.
+
+On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so much altered
+from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could scarcely recognise its
+situation. The stem of the casuarina on which the Mermaid's name and the
+date of our visit had been carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the
+inscription in consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818,
+and two or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least
+trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was covered
+by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand and decayed
+vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine plants in full
+flower, that would be much prized in any other place than where they
+were. The initials of the names of some of our people were still very
+perfect upon the stem of a large Banksia grandis which, from being
+covered with its superb flowers, bore a magnificent and striking
+appearance.
+
+After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it appeared
+that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and faces had
+evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which they pointed out
+to us as a great ornament; affording another proof that vanity is
+inherent in human nature and not merely the consequence of civilisation.
+They had however put off the garments with which we had clothed them and
+resumed their mantles.
+
+Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as we supposed,
+to make a fire, and to pass the night near the vessel, in order to watch
+our intentions and movements.
+
+On returning on board we desired the native who had remained behind to go
+ashore to his companions, but it was with great reluctance that he was
+persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board, our people had fed him
+plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding, tea, and grog, of which he ate
+and drank as if he was half famished, and after being crammed with this
+strange mixture and very patiently submitting his beard to the operation
+of shaving, he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and
+christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called, and to
+which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the shore, his
+companions came to meet him to hear an account of what had transpired
+during their absence, as well as to examine his new habiliments which, as
+may be conceived, had effected a very considerable alteration in his
+appearance, and at the same time that the change created much admiration
+on the part of his companions, it raised him very considerably in his own
+estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve his
+appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in his
+chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his companions,
+with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles thrown carelessly over
+their shoulders.
+
+Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen with them or
+angry with us for sending him on shore, for without deigning to reply to
+their questions he separated himself from them, and after watching us in
+silence for some time, walked quietly and slowly away, followed at a
+distance by his friends who were lost in wonder at what could have
+happened to their sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had
+probably taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very
+trifling, he might have been a little stupefied.
+
+December 25.
+
+At daylight the following morning the natives had again collected on both
+sides, and upon the jolly-boat's landing the people to examine the wells
+Jack, having quite recovered his good humour, got into the boat and came
+on board. The natives on the opposite side were vociferous to visit us,
+and were holding long conversations with Jack, who explained everything
+to them in a song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus
+the words "Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh" which they always repeated when
+anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no
+intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in fishing.
+Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been left by the tide
+on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards the deep water; at last
+one of the natives, fixing his spear in its throwing-stick, advanced very
+cautiously and, when within ten or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced
+the animal through the neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck
+his spear into it also, and then beating it about the head with a small
+hammer very soon despatched it.
+
+This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted in landing
+their prize and washing the sand off the body; they then carried the
+animal to their fire at the edge of the grass and began to devour it even
+before it was dead. Curiosity induced Mr. Cunningham and myself to view
+this barbarous feast and we landed about ten minutes after it had
+commenced. The moment the boat touched the sand the natives, springing up
+and throwing their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and
+before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready to go on
+board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to witness their
+savage feast. On going to the place we found an old man seated over the
+remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which had already disappeared; he
+was holding a long strip of the raw flesh in his left hand, and tearing
+it off the body with a sort of knife; a boy was also feasting with him
+and both were too intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the
+least disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon satisfied
+and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of so horrible a
+repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by the effluvia that arose
+from the dying animal, combined with that of the bodies of the natives
+who had daubed themselves from head to foot with a pigment made of a red
+ochreous earth mixed up with seal-oil.
+
+We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great patience in
+the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted them to go on
+board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville took a man from each
+mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined by an Indian carrying some
+spears and a throwing-stick, but on Mr. Baskerville's calling for a
+musket that was in the boat (to the use of which they were not strangers)
+he laid aside his spears, which probably were only carried for the
+purpose of striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the
+oysters. As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned
+on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent onshore,
+highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit and pudding
+which the people had given them to eat. They were very attentive to the
+mixture of a pudding, and a few small dumplings were made and given to
+them, which they put on the bars of the fireplace but, being too
+impatient to wait until they were baked, ate them in a doughy state with
+much relish.
+
+Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on board
+after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time: one of them,
+an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker's cutting out a boat's
+sail, and at his request was presented with all the strips that were of
+no use. When it was completed a small piece of canvas was missing, upon
+which the old man, being suspected of having secreted it, was slightly
+examined, but nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people
+were looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and
+appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked away
+towards another part of the deck and interested himself in other things.
+This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the sailmaker to examine
+the old man more closely, when the lost piece was found concealed under
+his left arm, which was covered by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin.
+This circumstance afforded me a good opportunity of showing them our
+displeasure at so flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in
+them; I therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I
+could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed but
+afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much alarmed: upon
+which his two companions, who were both boys, wanted to go onshore; this
+however was not permitted until I had made peace with the old man, and
+put them all in good humour by feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The
+two boys were soon satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and
+conscious of his guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with
+us, yet he always hung down his head and sneaked into the background.
+
+During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and in the
+evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on board for half
+an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to Green Island and shot a
+few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of which he gave to the natives after
+explaining how they had been killed, which of course produced great
+applause.
+
+December 26.
+
+The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which the natives,
+particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this day twenty-one
+natives about us and among them were five strangers. They were not
+permitted to come on board until four o'clock in the afternoon, excepting
+Jack, who was privileged to come and go as he liked, which, since it did
+not appear to create any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to
+detain him as a hostage for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was busily
+engaged in adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of
+the vessel.
+
+In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top masthead, much
+to the amusement of his companions but to the mortification of Bundell
+who had never taken courage to mount so high.
+
+The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a stream was found
+in the sandy bay to the eastward of the entrance, running over the beach,
+which we used when the holes were emptied of their contents; the latter
+were however preferred, since our people worked at them under an
+immediate protection from the vessel's deck. Near the stream we found
+some felled trees and the staves of a cask.*
+
+(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant brig wooded and
+watered in 1820.)
+
+December 27 to 28.
+
+Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the natives;
+the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides some whom we had
+before seen that were now absent. During the afternoon of the 28th the
+wind freshened from south-west and blew so strong as to cause a
+considerable swell where we were lying; but towards sunset the breeze
+moderated and the natives were again admitted on board; there were,
+however, only eleven, for the rest, having worn out their patience, had
+walked away.
+
+They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing anything
+against our wishes. The words "by and by" were so often used by us in
+answer to their cau-wah, or "come here," that their meaning was perfectly
+understood and always satisfied the natives, since we made it a strict
+rule never to disappoint them of anything that was promised, an attention
+to which is of the utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every
+evening that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit
+was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was always
+presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the day they were
+busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives, and hammers, for the
+evening's barter; and when they came in the morning they generally
+brought a large collection, which their wives had probably made in their
+absence.
+
+December 29.
+
+On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and prepared
+to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen feet water at the
+buoy which had been moored on the deepest part of the bar, the depth of
+which, during the two preceding days, had been frequently sounded.
+
+In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among whom was our
+friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away they expressed great
+sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack, who was more than usually
+entertaining but kept, as he always did, at a distance from his
+companions and treated them with the greatest disdain. When the time came
+to send them on shore he endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as
+usual was the last to go into the boat; instead however of following
+them, he went into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was
+preparing to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to
+return in her.
+
+This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all and was
+allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he pleased; he always
+wore the shirt that had been given to him on the first day and
+endeavoured to imitate everything that our people were employed upon;
+particularly the carpenter and the sailmaker at their work: he was the
+only native who did not manufacture spears for barter, for he was
+evidently convinced of the superiority of our weapons and laughed
+heartily whenever a bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for
+sale: for the natives, finding we took everything, were not very
+particular in the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to
+us. He was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and
+if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information of this
+part of the country; for we were becoming more and more intelligible to
+each other every day: he frequently accompanied Mr. Cunningham in his
+walks and not only assisted him in carrying his plants but occasionally
+added to the specimens he was collecting.
+
+December 30.
+
+The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps laid out,
+but from various delays we did not reach a birth sufficiently near the
+bar to make sail from, until the water had fallen too much to allow our
+passing it: the brig was therefore moored in the stream of the tide.
+
+At eight o'clock the natives came down as usual and were much
+disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place. After the
+vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent to the
+watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party were assembled
+with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and knives, for barter. Upon
+the return of the boats our friend Jack came on board and appeared
+altogether so attached to us that some thoughts were entertained of
+taking him on our voyage up the west coast if he was inclined to go. As
+he did not want for intelligence there was not much difficulty in making
+him understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he appeared to
+assent without the least hesitation, but that it might be satisfactorily
+ascertained whether he really wished to go it was intimated to him that
+he should tell his companions of this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell
+accordingly took him on shore, and purchased all the spears the natives
+had brought down, that, in case they should feel angry at his leaving
+them, they might have no weapons to do any mischief with.
+
+When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his intended
+departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was going, but his
+friends received the intelligence with the most careless indifference,
+their attention being entirely engrossed with the barter that was going
+on. After the spears were purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat
+followed by Jack, who seated himself in his place with apparent
+satisfaction.
+
+While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons Jack
+brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously concealed behind a
+bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but after he had embarked and the
+boat was leaving the shore he threw it among his companions, thereby
+affording us a most satisfactory proof of the sincerity of his
+intentions.
+
+About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon taking him,
+the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which, causing a slight
+motion, affected our friend's head so much that he came to me and,
+touching his tongue and pointing to the shore, intimated his wish to
+speak to the natives. He was therefore immediately landed and Mr.
+Baskerville, after purchasing some spears and waiting a few minutes,
+prepared to return on board: upon getting into the boat he looked at our
+volunteer but Jack, having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head
+and hung back; he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat's leaving
+the beach the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was
+perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk away
+without exchanging a word with them.
+
+December 31.
+
+The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too unsettled and the
+breeze too strong from the westward to think of moving from the
+anchorage. Jack and another native were down on the rocks at an early
+hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at eight o'clock some natives
+appeared on the opposite shore with spears and knives to barter, but we
+had no communication with them.
+
+During our visit we have obtained from these people about one hundred
+spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one hundred and fifty
+knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each being at from half to
+one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig, shield, nor boomerang; it is
+probable that they may have such weapons but did not produce them from a
+dislike at parting with them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which
+did not require much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter,
+particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter Pindar's
+razors, only made for sale.
+
+Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys: they were in
+most respects similar to their neighbours, having the same long curly
+hair and slight figure; they did not appear to be a navigating tribe, for
+we saw no canoes, nor did we observe any trees in the woods with the bark
+stripped, of which material they are usually made; and, from the timid
+manner they approached the water, it is more than probable that they are
+not much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in
+stating that the natives of this place do not use the throwing-stick; but
+it is probable they did not produce those instruments to him, for fear of
+being deprived of them, for it required much persuasion on our part to
+prevail upon them to let us have any; they were much more ingeniously
+formed than others that we had previously seen, and different also, in
+having a small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy
+knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the spears:
+the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these throwing-sticks, or
+mearas, were three inches broad and two feet six inches long. See Woodcut
+3.
+
+The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of leptospermum
+that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are from nine to ten feet
+long and barbed with a piece of hard wood, fastened on by a ligature of
+bark gummed over; we saw none that were not barbed, or had not a hole at
+the end to receive the hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the
+method by which this weapon is propelled.
+
+The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose of breaking
+open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals by striking them on
+the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be used as a chopping or
+cutting instrument; the handle is from twelve to fifteen inches long,
+having one end scraped to a sharp point, and on each side at the other
+end two pieces of hard stone fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which,
+when dry, is almost as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one
+pound weight. See Woodcut 5.
+
+The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the sort that
+ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long, scraped to a point
+like the hammer, and has, at the other end, three or four splinters of
+sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row with gum, thus forming a sort of
+ragged instrument. See Woodcut 6. It is thus used: after they have put
+within their teeth a sufficient mouthful of seal's flesh, the remainder
+is held in their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw
+through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or more of
+these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also an
+indispensable instrument with them.
+
+(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the manner in which these
+taaps are used, by referring to Captain Lyon's drawing of the Esquimaux
+sledges at page 290 of Parry's Second Voyage: the natives of King
+George's Sound however hold the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.)
+
+We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief or superior
+among them; the two parties that collected daily on the opposite sides of
+the harbour evidently belonged to the same tribe for they occasionally
+mixed with each other. Their habitations were probably scattered about in
+different parts for when the natives went away for the night they
+separated into several groups, not more than three or four going
+together, and these generally returned in company the next morning by the
+same path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at
+different times and some evidently came from a distance greater than
+others, for they were later in arriving and always took their leave at an
+earlier hour.
+
+With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one
+above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt to
+steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the Oyster
+Bank, our communication with these people was carried on in the most
+friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their knowledge, on shore every
+day attended only by his servant, but none, excepting Jack, followed him
+after they had ascertained the intention of his walk, and observed the
+care that he took to avoid going near their habitations, for which they
+evinced a great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a
+half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode of
+living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we never
+succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our curiosity. On one
+occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor out in the direction of
+their dwelling-place, and upon the boat's crew landing and carrying it
+along the beach, the natives followed and intimated by signs that we
+should not go that way; as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they
+understood our intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser
+to make fast to it.
+
+They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket, although not the
+least alarmed at having one fired off near them. Everything they saw
+excited their admiration, particularly the carpenter's tools and our
+clothes; but what appeared to surprise them above all other things was
+the effect produced upon the flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing
+the explosion of a train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it
+was from the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when
+Jack requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had
+brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done while
+the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five minutes until the
+sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded me of the removal of the
+obstacle. He was a good deal surprised at my collecting the rays of the
+sun upon my own hand, supposing that I was callous to the pain, from
+which he had himself before shrunk; but as I held the glass within the
+focus distance, no painful sensation was produced; after which he
+presented me his own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to
+hold the glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater
+reason, equally astonished us in our turn.
+
+They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a cloak of
+kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread under them when they
+lie down. Their hair was dressed in different ways; sometimes it was
+clotted with red pigment and seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round
+with a fillet of opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which
+parrot-feathers, escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in
+different fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance.
+
+Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over with a
+mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most disgusting
+effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our friend Jack used, after
+his acquaintance with us, was the carpenter's chalk, which he thought
+particularly ornamental.
+
+Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and one had
+several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of which, as they
+jingled together, he probably thought musical.
+
+The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and knife is
+manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a small yarn like
+worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or four hundred times round
+the stomach; very few however possessed this ornament; and it is not
+improbable that the natives who had their hair clubbed, those that wore
+belts, and the one who was ornamented with shells, held some particular
+offices in the tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to
+discover.
+
+During our communication with these people the following vocabulary of
+their language was obtained, of which some of the words are compared with
+those recorded by Captain Flinders: these last are inserted in the third
+column.
+
+COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.
+COLUMN 2: NATIVE WORD.
+COLUMN 3: NATIVE WORD RECORDED BY CAPTAIN FLINDERS.
+
+A goose : Caangan.
+A dog : Tiara.
+To eat biscuit : Yamungamari (doubtful).
+A seal : Baallot.
+The sun : Djaat : Djaat.
+Water : Badoo (this is a Port Jackson word, and has been probably
+obtained from other visitors).
+Beard : Nyanuck.
+Cheek : Nyaluck.
+Mouth : Tatah.
+Teeth : Orlock : Yeaal.
+Tongue : Darlin, or Thalib.
+Arm : Wormuck.
+Nails : Pera (strong accent on the r.)
+Finger : Mai, plural Maih.
+Toe : Kea, plural Kean.
+Finger nails : Peramaih.
+Toe nails : Perakean.
+Nipple : Beep : Bpep.
+Belly : Cobbull, or kopul : Kobul.
+Posteriors : Wallakah : Wallakah.
+Kangaroo : Beango.
+A frog : Toke.
+Spear-throwing-stick : Meara.
+Hammer : Kaoit.
+Eye : Meal.
+Navel : Beil.
+Shoulder : Kadyaran.
+Shall I go on board? : Bokenyenna.
+Elbow : Gnoyong.
+Scars on the body : Naamburn.
+Firewood : Gogorr.
+A spear : Namberr, or pegero.
+A knife : Taap.
+Rope (on board) : Nearbango.
+Wood (Plank) : Yandari.
+Lips : Tar : Urluck.
+Throat : Wurt.
+Thighs : Dtoual : Dtoual.
+Knee : Wonat : Wonat.
+Leg : Maat : Maat.
+Foot : Jaan, or bangul : Jaan.
+Ear : Duong : Duong.
+Nose : Tarmul : Moil.
+Head : Maka : Kaat.
+A porpoise : Nordock.
+Woman : Paydgero, or coman (doubtful).
+Hair of the head : Kaat : Kaat jou.
+Come here : Bulloco.
+Shoulder : Djadan.
+Musket : Puelar (doubtful).
+Gum : Perin.
+Tomorrow : Manioc (doubtful.)
+Surprise or admiration : Caicaicaicaicaigh. The last word lengthened out
+with the breath.
+A hawk : Barlerot.
+A shark, or shark's tail : Margit.
+Belt worn round the stomach : Noodlebul.
+Back : Goong.
+A particular fish : Wallar, or wallat.
+
+NAMES OF THE NATIVES.
+
+Yallapool (a little boy).
+Ureeton, Wytumba : boys.
+Marinbibba.
+Coolbun.
+Nakinna.
+Malka.
+Uderra.
+Kynoora.
+Hanbarrah.
+Bawarrang.
+Monga.
+Flooreena.
+Coolyarong.
+Mogril (a young man).*
+
+(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a subsequent visit on our
+return to England the following year.)
+
+The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions of the
+compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea and
+land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning the wind was
+usually light from the northward and at ten o'clock, gradually dying
+away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea, generally from South-West or
+South-East; this sea-breeze occasionally blew fresh until four o'clock in
+the evening when it would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a
+light air.
+
+The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches; a fall of
+the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise predicted it from the
+South-East: when it stood at thirty inches we had sea-breezes from south
+with fine weather. The easterly winds were dry; westerly ones the
+reverse. The moisture of the atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer,
+was ascertained with tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of
+sea-weed, the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture
+of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on all
+occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a change of wind
+much sooner than the barometer.
+
+Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but the usual
+extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees.
+
+1822. January 1.
+
+During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was frequently
+sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a half water upon it
+we were necessarily detained at the anchorage.
+
+January 2.
+
+On the following morning also at four o'clock the depth was the same; but
+at ten o'clock the water rose suddenly eighteen inches, upon which the
+anchors were lifted and the brig warped over the bar to an anchorage in
+three and a half fathoms off the outer watering-place, to await a
+favourable opportunity of going over to Seal Island; near which it was
+intended to anchor in order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare
+the vessel for our voyage up the west coast.
+
+In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the natives,
+thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another visit. On their coming
+on board it was noticed that many of them belonged to the tribe that
+lived on the opposite shore, but how they had crossed over was not
+satisfactorily ascertained. Their wonder on this their last visit was
+much raised by our firing off a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash
+of which in the water caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them
+was extremely vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon
+repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the operation
+of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise at the weight of
+the ball, upon which, after they had all severally examined it, they held
+a long and wordy argument as to what it possibly could be. At the splash
+of the ball, for which they were all looking out, they expressed their
+delight by shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh.
+After this they were sent on shore.
+
+January 3.
+
+At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross the sound,
+and by eight o'clock the brig was anchored under Seal Island; upon which
+we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in the course of the day
+shifted the main topmast. We had left the anchorage on the other side of
+the sound too early for our friends the natives, who had promised last
+evening to bring us a hawk's nest that was built upon a rock near the
+watering-place; at ten o'clock a very large fire was perceived close to
+the nest; it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they
+were not inattentive to their promise.
+
+January 4.
+
+The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon the beach
+but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham botanised upon the
+summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave me the following account:
+"Upon reaching the summit of the ridge, and clearing a rocky gully which
+intersected our track, we instantly entered an elevated valley of pure
+white sand, bounded on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were
+in themselves totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing
+of shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely
+supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be respired,
+although we were at a considerable elevation, and in the vicinity of a
+constant current of pure atmospheric air on the ridge. After traversing
+the whole length of this sandy vale, which is one-third of a mile in
+extent, in our route towards Bald Head, with scarcely a plant to attract
+our attention, we perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine
+specimens of Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the
+poverty and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading
+trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were at this
+time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful was it to the
+eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary in this heated valley,
+that whilst I gathered a quantity of the seeds of this truly rich plant,
+my servant was obliged to hurry away to a cooler air on the ridge, which
+we had again nearly reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less
+conspicuous blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have
+deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of aridity
+are naturally calculated to excite.
+
+"Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature required our
+care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition, we came to the
+granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate specimen of baeckea,
+remarkable for the regularity of its decussate leaves, which I have
+designated in my list as Baeckea saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of
+the ridge, I was much surprised to find we had already attained the
+highest point of the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive
+cavity, of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination
+of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain Vancouver.
+This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward, having on either side
+of its bare sandy summit a contrasting brushy vegetation: from the sea
+however a very small part only of its extensive surface of sand can be
+perceived, the greater part being only observable from the commanding
+hillocks we had with much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock
+(affording evidently a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen
+in a decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the
+ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite; the dense
+low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of the delicate
+baeckea."*
+
+(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
+
+In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals for the sake
+of their skins, which were serviceable for the rigging; the boat's crew
+also found some penguins (Aptenodytes minor) and a nest of iguanas. The
+bottle deposited here at our last visit in 1818 was found suspended where
+it had been left and brought on board, when another memorandum was
+enclosed in it, containing a notification of our present visit, of the
+friendly and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the
+vocabulary of their language.
+
+January 5.
+
+On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after visiting
+the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is merely a bare mass of
+granite, of about thirty yards in diameter, some natives were heard
+calling to us, and upon our pulling to the part whence the sound came, we
+found two men and a boy. After some time they were discovered to be three
+of our Oyster-Harbour friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of
+communicating with them, and of taking them on board, where they were
+regaled upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island.
+
+Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of this
+sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our communication
+with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding. And that this might
+not even be accidentally done, I requested Mr. Cunningham to confine his
+walks to the vicinity of the vessel, and particularly to avoid any route
+that would take him towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented
+from visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much
+amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the neighbourhood
+of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster Harbour. At our former
+visit to this place he had searched in vain for that curious little plant
+Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,* but on this occasion he was more
+fortunate, for he found it in the greatest profusion in the vicinity of
+the stream that empties itself over the beach of the outer bay where we
+watered. Of this he says: "The plants of cephalotus were all in a very
+weak state, and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or
+pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and intermixed about
+the root with the leaves, all contained a quantity of discoloured water,
+and, in some, the drowned bodies of ants and other small insects. Whether
+this fluid can be considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really
+to be the fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of
+India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers; or even a
+secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is not simply
+rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision from which the plant
+might derive support in seasons of protracted drought, when those marshy
+lands (in which this vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried
+of the moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be
+presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like some
+species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some pitchers to be very
+closely shut upon their orifices, although their cavities, upon
+examination, contained but very little water, and the state of the
+weather was exceedingly cloudy, and at intervals showery; if, therefore,
+the appendages are really cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the
+nourishment of the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose
+that this circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the
+lids, so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the
+pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of examining
+plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the vertical or horizontal
+positions in which the opercula were remarked, are determined by the
+state of the atmosphere, at the same time that he thinks it possible that
+the fluid may be a secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that
+were observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly deposited
+there by an insect of prey, since I detected a slender-bodied fly
+(ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having evidently forced its passage
+under the lid to the interior, where an abundant store of putrescent
+insects were collected. Whilst, therefore, these pitchers are answering
+the double purpose, of being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however
+produced, for the nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry
+season, as also a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in
+sarracenia, or the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the
+air, disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial to
+the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has suggested, in
+respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the swamp of Georgia and
+Carolina.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown's General Remarks in
+Flinders volume 2 page 601 et seq.)
+
+(**Footnote. Smith's Introduction to Botany page 150.)
+
+"I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering specimens of
+cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak, and showed no
+disposition to produce flowers at the season, and none had more than
+three or four ascidia."*
+
+(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
+
+The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a creeping parsley
+(Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of orach (Atriplex halimus,
+Brown) the latter was used by us every day, boiled with salt provisions,
+and proved a tolerable substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit
+we caught but very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on
+account of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the
+natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight for fear
+of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at Mistaken Island
+in abundance, of which the most common were a patella and an haliotis;
+the inhabitant of the former made a coarse, although a savoury dish.
+There were also varieties of the following genera: namely, lepas, chiton,
+cardium, pinna, nerita, two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus,
+and a small buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low
+water might be collected in abundance.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of the West
+Coast at Rottnest Island.
+Another remarkable effect of mirage.
+Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.
+Break an anchor.
+Examine the coast to the northward.
+Cape Leschenault.
+Lancelin Island.
+Jurien Bay.
+Houtman's Abrolhos.
+Moresby's Flat-topped Range.
+Red Point.
+Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.
+Occurrences there.
+Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.
+Barrow Island.
+Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.
+Rowley's Shoals.
+Cape Leveque.
+Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's
+Archipelago.
+Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.
+Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.
+Adele Island.
+Return to Port Jackson.
+
+1822. January 6.
+
+We sailed from King George's Sound on the 6th.
+
+January 8.
+
+But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the 8th than
+the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a current setting at
+one mile an hour to the westward, the brig made considerable progress.
+
+January 10.
+
+At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the masthead, and at
+eight o'clock was seen from the deck at the distance of ten leagues,
+bearing North 42 degrees East by compass.
+
+At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland, Captain Flinders
+commenced his examination of the south coast, but saw no part to the
+northward. The French expedition under Captain Baudin were upon this part
+at two different periods of their voyage, and it appears from an
+examination of their tracks that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and
+Peron, the latter of which is about five leagues to the southward of the
+entrance of Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They
+landed in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from
+southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and
+West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being
+shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter.
+
+The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron's description, barren and
+unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste which lies
+about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that name there seems to
+be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The small inlet of Port
+Leschenault is only the embouchure of a salt-marsh; it is scarcely
+attainable even by boats; for there appears to be only three feet water
+on the bar, and over and within it not more than fifteen feet. The French
+found no fresh water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault
+to Cape Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate
+height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The French
+ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or five miles from
+the beach, and the report made by them is sufficiently in detail for all
+the purposes of navigation.
+
+Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we should
+examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a distance from the land
+to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron, in order to explore the bay
+behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon. Swan River and Rottnest Island had
+been already carefully examined by the French; but from the latter island
+to the North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark's Bay, they saw very
+little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from Van
+Keulen.*
+
+(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.)
+
+At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14 seconds,
+and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache Blanche
+remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East (magnetic). At
+six o'clock in the evening we passed Cape Naturaliste, having experienced
+a strong current setting North 11 degrees West, at nearly two miles per
+hour; hence we steered to the northward, but it was dark when we passed
+near the position assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on
+for three hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o'clock hauled
+to the wind for the night.
+
+January 11.
+
+The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes 2 seconds,
+having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the masthead, bearing East
+by South 1/2 South; but during the day the wind was so light that we had
+not approached it within four leagues by sunset.
+
+At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard between which
+and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills appeared to be
+tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height. Buache Island was
+visible as well as the small rocky islet between it and Cape Peron. The
+former is low and sandy, and its outline of hummocky shape; and to the
+eastward was some distant land trending towards the assigned entrance of
+Swan River. To the northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on
+the horizon, which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was
+very indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it
+disappeared a very copious dew began to fall.
+
+January 12.
+
+The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape Peron was
+ten miles off, but at half-past nine o'clock we were between Capes Peron
+and Bouvard, and about five miles from the shore, which from the former
+extended in a North-East by North direction, still low and sandy.
+
+At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes 42 seconds,
+but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds, a
+difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was occasioned by the haze
+which concealed the true horizon, and caused an appearance of land all
+round us, on which rocks, sandy beaches, and trees were so plainly formed
+that the officer of the watch actually reported two islands on the
+western horizon. This was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we
+ever witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon,
+whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being taken;
+and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for half an hour,
+puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the observed latitude with the
+bearings of the land. This curious phenomenon was also witnessed by the
+French in Geographe Bay. During the time this magical appearance
+continued, we had very light airs from the southward: the barometrical
+column fell to 29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an
+extraordinary dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when
+Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32 degrees
+East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from West-South-West but
+gradually veered round to the southward; and at nine o'clock was very
+light from South-East.
+
+January 13.
+
+During the night we made short tacks. At four o'clock in the morning
+(13th) the latitude by the moon's meridional altitude was 32 degrees 16
+minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest was in sight in the
+North-North-East. At six o'clock the sky was clouded, and the weather
+threatened to be bad; the mercury fell to 29.69 inches, upon which all
+sail was made off the land, as appearances indicated a westerly gale: but
+after an interval of two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from
+North-West by West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards
+Rottnest Island.
+
+January 14.
+
+The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end of the
+island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the afternoon I went on
+shore in a bay on the east or leeward side, where we found the water
+smooth and the landing more practicable than upon the north side where a
+tremendous surf was rolling in upon the beach. We disturbed a great many
+seals but only killed three; and were much disappointed in finding that
+these animals were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet's
+account of the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same
+description as those noticed at King George's Sound. The traces of a
+small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were not seen. We
+walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the French named Etangs
+Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks as being surrounded by an
+extensive beach, composed entirely of bivalve shells, a species of
+cardium: the quantity was indeed extraordinary. The banks were frequented
+by gulls and sandpipers, of which many were shot. The water was found to
+be perfectly salt and from the circumstance of its rising and falling
+with the tide it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of
+the island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of
+decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the genera
+buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we found none with the
+living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe a hawk and a pigeon were
+the only land-birds seen; but boobies, terns, and sandpipers were very
+numerous about the shores. Mr. Cunningham was fully employed during the
+short time that we were on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest
+created in our minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom
+before seen, and which from Vlaming's account bears a prominent place in
+the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the party
+that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the productions of this
+island he makes the following brief remarks: "It is surprising that an
+island, situated at so short a distance from the south-west coast, should
+bear so small a feature of the characteristic vegetation of King George's
+Sound as not to furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or
+Mimoseae, and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore
+seem that these families are confined to the shores of the main,
+particularly about King George's Sound, where we have just left them in
+the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the botanical productions of
+this island there is no plant of so striking a feature as the callitris,
+a tree of about twenty-five feet high, with a short stem of three feet in
+diameter; it much resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its
+robust horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and
+within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a succession
+of small hills and intervening valleys; and although the soil is very
+poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose sand and a large
+proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree grows to a considerable size,
+but covering the surface of the island, gives it a monotonous appearance
+which is however occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species
+of melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more elegant
+pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In fact, these
+three trees constitute the timber of the island. The ground is in some
+parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus, Labil., in which I
+detected a new species of xerotes, a round bushy plant growing in large
+bodies.
+
+"No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island: indeed the
+loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious enough to retain that
+element at the surface. The woods are abundantly stocked with a small
+species of kangaroo of which we saw only the traces; nor did we see the
+animal, on account of whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island
+received its name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new
+genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does not
+appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the natives from
+the main; probably on account of the stormy nature of the weather, and
+the prevalence of westerly winds, which would be quite sufficient to
+deter them from venturing to sea in such fragile vessels as they
+possess."**
+
+(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.)
+
+(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
+
+January 15.
+
+On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom that would
+have afforded better anchorage than where we had brought up; for the
+vessel was not only exposed to a considerable swell but the ground was so
+foul that in weighing the anchor the following morning one of the flukes
+hooked a rock and broke off, besides which the cable was much rubbed.
+
+As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin's voyage by MM.
+Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de vaisseau, the latter a
+mineralogist, an account of which is fully detailed in De Freycinet's and
+Peron's respective accounts of that voyage,* without their finding
+anything of sufficient importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig
+at anchor off Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily
+take to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not
+think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as soon as
+we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued to run
+northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles from it. At noon
+our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32 seconds. The coast is formed by
+sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty
+feet high, here and there sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite
+bare: behind this frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen
+on which the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky
+for two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three
+o'clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to be
+Captain Baudin's Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast to the
+northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the morning, in
+that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation; there appeared to be
+several ridges behind the coast dunes, but they were all equally
+unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island was not distinctly made out
+but the two small rocky lumps on the bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet
+mentions, were seen and thought to be very remarkable. At seven o'clock,
+having reached in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds,
+and longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore for
+the night.
+
+January 16.
+
+And at six o'clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At half-past ten
+o'clock we were so near to it as to see the beach: at noon the latitude
+was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13 seconds, its longitude being
+114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds, at which time we were on the parallel
+of the two rocky lumps seen the last evening. Hence we steered north on a
+parallel direction with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the
+different projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles,
+and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four o'clock
+we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to be the north head
+of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were seen, fronted by reefs, on
+which the sea in many parts was breaking violently. To the southward of
+the point the coast hills are rather high and principally formed of very
+white sand, bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables,
+to hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs partially
+concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene which was dismally
+triste. The country to the northward bears a different character; the
+shore is very low and sandy and continues so for some distance in the
+interior towards the base of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on
+which the French have placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps
+from our being too close in shore, we did not discover.
+
+(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and Peron volume 1 page 178
+et seq.)
+
+This range extends in a North by West and South by East direction, and
+appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some trees were noticed and
+vegetation appeared to be more abundant than in the space between the
+bare sandy point and Cape Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south
+part near the shore is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate
+size were seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees
+hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native fires were
+seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was there any other
+indication of the coast being inhabited; it is however likely to be as
+populous as any other part, for the hills in the interior, which we
+occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed to be wooded, and would therefore
+furnish subsistence to natives from hunting, even if the seashore failed
+in supplying them with fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island
+Point there is a deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef
+partly dry, extending from the shore two miles.
+
+At seven o'clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef that nearly
+crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off for the night we
+shortened sail and brought to the wind, then blowing a strong squally
+breeze from south; but notwithstanding this succession of bad weather,
+the mercury in the barometer had ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92
+inches.
+
+January 17.
+
+At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two miles before it
+was seen. At nine o'clock it bore between North-East and South-East, and
+at a quarter after nine heavy breakers were seen in the South-East at the
+distance of five miles. The weather was now fine and the wind
+South-South-East, but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by
+haze that the land, although not more than seven miles from our track,
+was very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from one
+hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded with a
+scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range of hills of
+tabular form which are probably very high. At ten o'clock we passed
+another patch of breakers at the distance of about a mile and a half; but
+these appeared to have no connexion with those seen at nine o'clock. Our
+soundings were between fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance
+from the beach from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to
+South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29 degrees 5
+minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114 degrees 40 minutes 30
+seconds East; by which we found that a current had set us during the last
+twenty-four hours to the North-North-West at one mile per hour. At
+half-past twelve o'clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2
+North, when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the
+distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van Keulen's
+chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast.
+
+At half-past four o'clock the masthead man was cautioned to look out for
+breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he reported some
+bearing North-West by North. On going to the masthead I saw them
+distinctly for they were not more than four miles off, and on looking
+round the horizon towards the westward, distinctly saw the island of
+Frederick Houtman's Abrolhos, which for some time the masthead man
+persisted was only the shadow of the clouds; but a small hummock being
+soon afterwards descried upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my
+conjectures. The group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and
+of small size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the
+southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations were now
+made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck when the lookout
+man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which the helm was immediately
+put up; and when the vessel's head was round upon the opposite tack the
+following bearings were taken:
+
+Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and South 75
+degrees West.
+
+Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North.
+
+Another patch: seven miles off, South-West.
+
+And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West.
+
+This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it distinctly from
+the masthead, and it is from their accounts that I am induced to give it
+a place upon the chart. The position of the vessel when we saw the
+breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes and in longitude 114
+degrees 2 minutes, and from the short interval between our obtaining
+sights for the chronometer and the meridional observation at noon, the
+position may be considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the
+bearings and before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine
+shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually deepened
+to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms.
+
+January 18.
+
+The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at five
+o'clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped land, probably
+about one thousand feet high. At the northern end of the range were four
+or five hills standing apart from each other, of which, in the view we
+then had of them, the northernmost was flat-topped, and the others
+peaked; at the south end of the range were three other distinct hills,
+the centre being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of
+the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its form.
+
+This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and is thus
+noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage. "Entre les
+paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la terre est tres haute;
+on y remarque deux montagnes bien reconnoisables par leur forme qui
+approche de celle de la Grange, sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la
+Montagne de la Table au Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un
+peu au Pouce, de l'Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises
+rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres plus au
+sud."*
+
+(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.)
+
+We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all the hills
+were flat-topped of course they were similar to the Table Land of the
+Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it in point of height.
+
+This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in grateful
+recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to the wants and
+repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to Mauritius. The summit in
+the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the group of hills at the north end
+were named Menai Hills, and the three at the south end of the range were
+distinguished by the name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude
+28 degrees 45 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45
+seconds. The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an
+appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the outlets of
+mountain-streams. The country also appeared much better wooded than in
+other parts, and as large smokes were seen in the valleys the place most
+likely at the time of our passing frequented by natives.
+
+Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a patch of bare
+sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not so sandy as it is more
+to the south. At ten o'clock a very thick haze spread over the land and
+so enveloped it that nothing could be distinguished. At noon, the brig
+being in 28 degrees 25 minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7
+minutes 0 seconds East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that
+the coast had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts
+cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand. In the
+interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is probably the Mount
+Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends here in a North by West
+direction.
+
+The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast has been
+distinguished by the name of Vlaming's ship, The Geelvink, since she was
+the first vessel that passed them (Anno 1697). Captain Hamelin in the
+Naturaliste also passed within them, imagining that he perceived them to
+the eastward, but what he saw must have been the summit of Moresby's
+Flat-topped Range.*
+
+(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he says: "quelques
+personnes n'osent assurer que nous ayons vu les Abrolhos; d'autres, et je
+suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que nous avons pris pour ce groupe
+d'iles est une portion du Continent." Freycinet page 180.)
+
+The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest Island and the
+Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature, mixed sometimes with
+shelly sand, and were generally coarser as we approached the shore. In
+some parts, particularly near Cape Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the
+bottom appeared to be a bed of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not
+larger than a pin's head. Off Moresby's Flat-topped Range the bottom is
+of a soft dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would
+afford good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades
+this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in other
+parts, which might have been occasioned either by the Abrolhos bank's
+breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation of the wind, for it was
+comparatively light to what it had been since our leaving Rottnest
+Island.
+
+A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this coast in
+latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then commences and extends
+for eight miles to the Red Point of Vlaming; behind which is a bight,
+called by the French Gantheaume Bay; in the south part of which there
+appeared a small opening. This bay did not seem to be so well calculated
+for taking shelter in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen's chart
+indicates; since it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from
+which quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky;
+the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish hue, but no
+trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a sandy beach; the
+depth of the bight is probably five or six miles. The cliffs of Red Point
+partake of a reddish tinge and appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal
+strata. In the centre and about halfway between the base and summit of
+the cliffs is a remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at
+a distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks on its
+face took our attention and resembled characters of a very large size, as
+if they had been painted for the purpose of attracting the attention of
+vessels passing by; but a closer examination with the telescope prove
+them to be only the shadows of the projecting parts of the surface.
+
+At half-past seven o'clock we hauled off for the night and, standing off
+and on, sounded in between thirty-three and thirty-five fathoms.
+
+January 19.
+
+At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to East-South-East
+but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it was very indistinctly
+seen; at noon a partial clearing away of the haze exposed to our view a
+long range of high and precipitous cliffs, the base of which was washed
+by the sea, breaking upon it with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly
+by us. The wind falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore,
+when we soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27
+degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o'clock the depth was forty-five
+fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the rest of the day; for
+although the sky was beautifully clear and serene, the atmosphere for
+fifteen degrees above the horizon was enveloped in a thick hazy mist that
+caused an extraordinary dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable
+state of the weather we did not attempt to make it again.
+
+January 20.
+
+The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog's Island which lies in
+25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached within four miles of the
+shore steered to the northward parallel to the beach, but the haze was
+still so great as to render the land very indistinct. We saw enough of it
+however to be convinced of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with
+a barrier of rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that
+was heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least
+three miles.
+
+The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the thermometer
+at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees.
+
+At one o'clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point of Dirk
+Hartog's Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze veered as far as
+South-West by West, which was two points more westerly than we had
+hitherto had it. At two o'clock the brig passed round the cape and, as
+there was an appearance of good shelter in the bay to the eastward of it,
+we hauled in and at half-past three o'clock anchored in twelve fathoms
+fine gravelly soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog's Island (Cape
+Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy point that
+forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a mile and a half from
+the shore.
+
+As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of the land
+the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing over the arid and
+parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed hygrometer, which had been
+quite damp since we left Rottnest Island, was in ten minutes so dried as
+to be covered with crystals of salt; and in this state it continued
+during our stay.
+
+Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its summit, which we
+conjectured to be those on which the French had affixed a record of their
+visit, as well as the more ancient one of the Dutch navigators, Dirk
+Hartog and Vlaming; for they were very conspicuously placed and appeared
+to be in good preservation.
+
+We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was surrounded by
+sharks, which at once impressed us with the propriety of Dampier's
+nomenclature. One that was caught measured eleven feet in length but the
+greater number were not more than three or four feet long. They were very
+voracious and scared away large quantities of fish, of which, however,
+our people during the evening caught a good supply.
+
+January 21.
+
+The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager steps ascended
+the rocky face of the hill to examine the interesting memorials that were
+affixed to the post; but found to our great mortification that they had
+been removed; the only vestige that remained was the nails by which they
+had been secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently
+made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest Island; it
+appeared to have been broken down; the other was still erect and seemed
+to have been either the heel of a ship's royal-mast or part of a
+studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a flag had been fastened by
+nails. A careful search was made all round but, as no signs of the Dutch
+plate or of the more recent French inscription were seen, it was
+conjectured that they had been removed by the natives; but since our
+return to England I have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of
+the Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De Freycinet
+upon his return from his late voyage round the world. After this
+disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst Mr. Cunningham
+botanised along the summit of the ridge; and before he rejoined us we had
+been fortunate enough to find two very fine turtles, and a large quantity
+of turtle-eggs. The animals had been left by the tide in holes of the
+rocks, from which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our
+absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with the hook
+and line, having caught about five or six dozen snappers, besides some of
+the genus tetradon.
+
+This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring more turtles
+from the beach induced me to remain here a few days to perform some
+trifling repairs that could not be effected at sea. We were also
+prevented from moving, from the unfavourable state of the weather; for it
+was blowing a gale of wind all the time we remained; but as our people
+were living upon fresh food the time was not considered as lost.
+
+January 22.
+
+The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could not convey
+them all on board forty were left on shore upon their backs for the
+night: upon landing the next morning they were all found dead, having
+killed themselves by their exertions to escape, and from their exposure
+to the heat of the sun which was so great during the day that I did not
+send any of the people on shore. We found, however, no difficulty in
+procuring more, some of which weighed four hundredweight.
+
+The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with shell-fish,
+of which the principal sorts were species of trochus, chama, conus,
+voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and patella; among the latter
+was the large one of King George's Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of
+the cape we found varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were
+observed in the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor
+plentiful. Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about
+four feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly
+yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of the hair
+species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the rocks, probably
+of the same description that Dampier found in the maw of the shark;* and
+also what was found by the French on Faure Island, which M. Peron
+supposed to be an herbivorous animal and described as a dugong.**
+
+(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.)
+
+(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De Freycinet page 201.)
+
+January 24.
+
+On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a memorial of our
+visit; an inscription was carved upon a small piece of wood in the back
+of which was deposited another memorandum written upon vellum; the wood
+was of the size of the sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was
+fixed, and near it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was
+accomplished the party walked for some distance along the beach to the
+south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or three
+whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of putrefied flesh was
+also seen, about two or three feet long, one side of which was covered
+with red hair, it was however too far gone to ascertain to what animal it
+belonged.
+
+On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was mortifying to
+find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an incredible quantity,
+particularly of our biscuit and flour. In one of the casks of the latter
+more than two-thirds of its contents was deficient. The biscuit was
+completely drilled through and the greater part would not have been
+thought fit to eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still
+however hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of
+the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I now found
+would of necessity be at least four or five weeks before the time I had
+fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As it would take up a great
+portion of the time we had now left to make a more extensive examination
+of Shark's Bay than what the French have already performed, and would
+entirely prevent my going upon the north-west coast again; it was
+determined that we should not delay here, but pass on and resume our
+examination of the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay.
+The only part of Shark's Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to
+require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay immediately
+opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but from the very intricate
+and shoal nature of its approach it is very doubtful whether even a sight
+of the land in that direction could be procured.
+
+The rocks of Dirk Hartog's Island are of a very remarkable formation,
+consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in small circular
+kernels by a calcareous cement in which some shells were found embedded.
+The geological character of this rock is more fully treated upon in the
+Appendix by my friend Dr. Fitton.
+
+"Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at this time
+much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a tolerably rich
+harvest. In his collection were the following plants, which were
+originally brought to Europe by Dampier; namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.;
+Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.; solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without
+fructification (Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate
+melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus (teretifolius,
+Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed acacia (Acacia
+ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):"..."many were the wrecks of most
+interesting plants, and especially those of soft herbaceous duration,
+which had some time since fallen a sacrifice to the apparent
+long-protracted drought of the season; but it was impossible, amidst the
+sad languor of vegetation, not to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit
+of an undescribed species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham
+manuscript) which formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with
+ripe fruit. We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or
+otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the edge of
+the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very distinct kinds,
+each exceeding five feet in length; the one black with a yellow belly,
+the other green and black, but they quickly escaped into holes, leaving a
+serpentine impression of their bodies upon the sand. These marks were
+seen and remarked near the edge of all the holes, which were very
+numerous upon the surface of the island, before I discovered that they
+were the tracks of reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these
+animals are very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of
+loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those nests of
+which frequent mention has been already made: I examined and found it
+built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very strongly constructed of
+long sticks; it was about five feet high and exceeded four feet in
+diameter, with a very slight cavity above; and seemed to have been very
+recently inhabited. The rocks that formed its base were ornamented with a
+prostrate capparis, or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis,
+Cunningham manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my
+walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the seeds of a
+small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled across the down
+without reaching a single bush or rock large enough to conceal itself as
+far as the eye could discern it, so bare and destitute of vegetation are
+these arid, sandy plains."* The heat of the weather was so great as not
+to allow of any communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak
+and eight o'clock. Mr. Cunningham's visits were therefore necessarily
+much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to take to
+prevent the people from being exposed to the very great heat of the sun,
+which on shore must have been at least twenty degrees more powerful than
+on board, where the thermometer ranged between 71 1/2 degrees at
+midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at noon. The barometer ranged between
+29.76 and 29.99 inches, and stood highest when the wind was to the
+eastward of south, with which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the
+air consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea.
+
+(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.)
+
+As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog's Road has
+everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of fresh water
+which, according to the French, was not found in any part of Shark's Bay;
+the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear of rocks. There is also an
+abundance of fish and turtle, and of the latter a ship might embark forty
+or fifty every day, for they are very sluggish and make no effort to
+escape, perhaps from knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over
+the rocky barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish
+we caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called by the
+French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people could not be
+persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly upon it. There are
+some species of this genus that are poisonous but many are of delicious
+flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede in a paper in the Annal. du
+Museum d'Histoire Naturelle (tome 4 page 203) as le Tetrodon argente
+(Tetrodon argenteus).
+
+January 26.
+
+On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and Bernier's Islands;
+nothing was seen of the reef that lies in mid-channel on the south side
+of Dorre Island: a rippling was noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South
+direction from the masthead at twenty minutes before one o'clock but, if
+the position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed it
+long before that time. At six o'clock Kok's Island, the small rocky islet
+that lies off the north end of Bernier's Island, bore North 83 degrees
+East, distant seven miles.
+
+January 27.
+
+The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the North-East and
+at half-past eight o'clock we resumed our course and passed Cape Cuvier,
+a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that presents a precipitous face to the
+sea. The coast thence takes a North by East direction; it is low and
+sandy and fronted by a sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by
+projecting rocky points; those parts where patches of bare sand were
+noticed are marked upon the chart.
+
+At one o'clock we were near a low sandy projection round which the coast
+extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay. This projection
+was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar, Bart., the late Governor
+of the Mauritius.
+
+Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a projection
+which, at Mr. Cunningham's request, was called after Mr. William Anderson
+of the apothecaries' garden at Chelsea. The coast to the northward of
+Point Anderson is higher than to the southward and falls back to the
+North-East, but was very imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze
+that enveloped it. At a quarter before seven o'clock we hauled to the
+wind for the night with a fresh gale from the southward.
+
+January 28.
+
+The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear; but towards
+noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset was so thick as
+entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as low as 29.76 inches
+and, although the thermometer was at 79 degrees and the sun powerful, yet
+the atmosphere was so charged with moisture that the decks and everything
+out of the immediate influence of the sun were quite damp. This
+extraordinary and constant humidity appeared only to occupy the
+atmosphere for the sky was always beautifully clear and serene.
+
+During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with a high
+topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in shifting the main
+topsail which had split during the night, we stood off until three
+o'clock before we tacked towards the shore.
+
+January 29.
+
+At eight o'clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23 seconds, the
+land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees East at the distance
+of five or six leagues: by its outline which, from the glare of the sun
+was the only part at all discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height,
+very level, and offering no particular mark that could be set with any
+chance of recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason
+to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by former
+navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the southernmost point of
+the high land Point Cloates.
+
+(*Footnote. See volume 1.)
+
+At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds, having
+experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north since yesterday
+at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming's Head, bore North-East by East
+1/2 East and the south extreme South 7 degrees West; and in the bearing
+of between South 32 degrees to 82 degrees East the land is higher than in
+other parts and declines very gradually towards the extreme.
+
+As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend the whole
+length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach: the land is of
+moderate height but the summit is rather more rugged than that to the
+southward where the outline is perfectly level. At half-past three
+o'clock Vlaming Head bore south six miles and three quarters off: at four
+o'clock the latitude, by the moon's meridional altitude, was found to be
+21 degrees 38 minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the
+chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2 minutes
+16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first voyage was 114
+degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two, 114 degrees 2 minutes 2
+seconds, may therefore be considered its true situation.
+
+From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West Cape
+agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was induced to think
+that there might be some land more to the northward that the French saw
+and took for the cape; for they have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7
+seconds South, which is nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain
+Horsburgh, in the supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen
+by the San Antonio in 1818, called Piddington's Islands, that are said to
+lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering
+seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation, without
+seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my mind that the
+French must have been deceived and that Piddington's Islands are some of
+the low, sandy islets to the eastward of Muiron Island.
+
+January 30.
+
+Having steered through the night on a north-east course, Barrow's Island
+came in sight the next morning, when it was about five leagues off; at
+eight o'clock it bore between South 27 East and North 87 degrees East.
+From noon to three p.m. we had calm, dull, and cloudy weather; and
+although the thermometer did not range higher than 87 degrees, the heat
+was extremely oppressive, and occasioned the death of three of our
+turtles. At three o'clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled
+us to steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing which
+we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have laid down as the
+westernmost island of that group. There is certainly no land to the
+westward of Trimouille Island; and the error can only be accounted for by
+Captain Baudin's having seen the latter at two different periods; indeed
+this conjecture is in some measure proved, since there is a considerable
+reef running off the north-west end of that island, which in the French
+chart is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen
+by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and observed
+the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second island.
+
+After steering a north course until seven o'clock and deepening the water
+to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled round the north end of the
+Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m. steered East; but at two o'clock,
+having decreased the depth from seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we
+steered off to the northward until daylight, and then to the
+East-South-East, in order to anchor in the Mermaid's Strait to the
+eastward of Malus Island, to take some stones on board as ballast, for
+the brig was so very light and leewardly that it would have been running
+a great risk to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were
+disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and a severe
+thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West, during which the
+barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale then veered gradually
+round to the North-West, and obliged us to make sail off the coast, and
+by the time it moderated we were so far to leeward of Dampier's
+Archipelago that I was constrained to alter my plan and give up the idea
+of taking ballast on board. I therefore determined upon making Rowley's
+Shoals, for the purpose of fixing their position with greater
+correctness, and examining the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque,
+which we were obliged to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this
+voyage.
+
+1822. February 4.
+
+The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which day we
+passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the westernmost) Shoal;
+which we now found to extend nearly four miles more to the southward than
+had been suspected in 1818, at which period we steered round its north
+end.
+
+A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end of the
+reef about ten miles from the vessel's track, and Mr. Roe, from the
+masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did not appear to be so
+steep as the western side.
+
+From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good Hope, but
+having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes
+51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32 minutes 4 seconds, without seeing
+any signs of it for ten miles on either side of our course, we hauled to
+the wind for the night and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms
+speckled sand and broken shells.
+
+February 5.
+
+At seven o'clock the following morning we were steering east when broken
+water was reported bearing from East to East-South-East, but it turned
+out to be a rippling which we passed through. These ripplings have been
+frequently noticed in the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very
+little affected by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we
+were by observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119
+degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and twenty
+fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and stones; and at twenty
+miles farther to the eastward sounded again on the same depth.
+
+February 6.
+
+At eight o'clock the next morning, having steered through the night
+North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken shells, and
+large stones.
+
+February 8.
+
+On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East and soon
+afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the distance of a mile
+and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we saw from the masthead a line
+of strong tide-ripplings, extending from the point in a North-West by
+West direction; within which we at first attempted to pass but, finding
+that they were connected to the point, hauled up to steer through them
+where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise
+was terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst the
+breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to make me fear
+for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would perhaps have been
+swamped; for although the sea was in other parts quite smooth and the
+wind light, yet the water broke over the bows and strained the brig
+considerably.
+
+We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying five miles
+from the shore over a space which, at our last visit, appeared to be
+occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then probably deceived by
+tide-ripplings.
+
+It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the point, where
+Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms clear sandy
+ground; but upon rounding the projection, the wind suddenly fell and,
+after a light squall from South-West we had a dead calm; the depth was
+thirty fathoms coral bottom and therefore not safe to anchor upon; this
+was unfortunate for the sudden defection of the wind prevented our
+hauling into the bay out of the tide, which was evidently running with
+considerable rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of
+preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands through which
+we could not discover any outlet, and which were so crowded that in the
+dangerous predicament in which we found ourselves placed they bore a
+truly awful and terrific appearance. At this time I was at my usual post,
+the masthead, directing the steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was
+drifting forward by a rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about
+a quarter of a mile off, that were not more than two feet above the
+water's edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must
+strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction that we
+could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our path unless a
+breeze should spring up, of which there was not the slightest appearance
+or probability.
+
+Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks without
+accident and, after carrying us about half a mile farther, changed its
+direction to south-east and drifted us towards a narrow strait separating
+two rocky islands, in the centre of which was a large insulated rock that
+seemed to divide the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead
+to tow, but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As
+she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and several
+islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from her course. The
+voices of natives were now heard and soon afterwards some were seen on
+either side of the strait, hallooing and waving their arms; we were so
+near to one party that they might have thrown their spears on board; they
+had a dog with them which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this
+time we were flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us
+quite giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe
+the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest part of
+the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock which it appeared
+to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was more than probable that the
+stream it divided would carry us broadside upon it, when the consequences
+would have been truly dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past
+the rock at the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined
+by its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment,
+however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a sudden
+breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, impelled the
+vessel forward for three or four yards: this was enough, but only just
+sufficient, for the rudder was not more than six yards from the rock. No
+sooner had we passed this frightful danger than the breeze fell again and
+was succeeded by a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on
+with a gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt very
+little effect from it.
+
+From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque appeared to
+trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the bearing of
+South-West; there was however some land more to the southward that had
+the appearance of being an island; it was afterwards found to be a
+projection, forming the east head of a bay, and was subsequently called
+after my friend Mr. Cunningham, to whose indefatigable zeal the
+scientific world is considerably indebted for the very extensive and
+valuable botanical collection that has been formed upon this voyage.
+
+We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig continued
+to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty to twenty-four
+fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined what course to pursue in
+order to preserve the situation which we had so unexpectedly reached, and
+to prevent the ebb-tide from carrying us back through the strait: the
+bare idea of this impending danger reconciled me to determine upon
+sacrificing an anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next
+to impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, however,
+as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up from the westward
+and at once put an end to our fears and anxieties; all sail was made
+towards Point Cunningham beyond which no land was visible; but the tide
+being adverse and the evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to
+the north-west of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven
+miles and a half.
+
+February 9.
+
+The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. Roe to
+examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville in the meantime
+sounded about the bay between the brig and the western shore and found
+very good anchorage in all parts: at about one mile to the westward of
+our situation the bottom was of mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms:
+the land appeared a good deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel
+the coast seemed to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may
+perhaps afford good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of
+the bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and being
+studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed walking along the
+beach close to the low water mark, probably in search of shell-fish; some
+of them were children, and perhaps the others were women, except two or
+three who carried spears; a dog was trotting along the beach behind them.
+
+After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were burnt every
+half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight the boat came
+alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good anchorage round the
+point; and where he landed at Point Cunningham there was plenty of fresh
+water; but he saw nothing like land to the South-East; the coast trended
+from Point Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The
+heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence of the
+sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point Cunningham Mr.
+Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 degrees. At this place he
+obtained an indifferent meridian altitude which placed it in 16 degrees
+40 minutes 18 seconds South.
+
+In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, botanised with
+success. The traces of natives, dogs, turtle-bones, and broken shells,
+were found strewed about; and several fireplaces were noticed that had
+very recently been used; a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks
+into the sea, and at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet
+water. Near the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been
+chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets.
+
+The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; and the
+rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red colour, the other
+whitish, and harder. After leaving Point Cunningham they pulled round the
+rocks, which extended for some distance off the point, and then entered a
+bay, all over which they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed
+the south extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they
+landed at a bright red, cliffy point.
+
+At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return and, although
+the tide was in their favour, were six hours before they reached the
+vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the distance to be nearly twenty
+miles, and by the survey subsequently made it was found to be seventeen.
+
+February 11.
+
+We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had some
+difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the water upon the
+sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were obliged to anchor until the
+tide rose high enough to permit our crossing it. At two o'clock we again
+got underweigh and crossed the bank, when the wind falling calm we
+anchored with Point Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a
+half miles.
+
+February 12.
+
+The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some bearings;
+the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but did not succeed in
+reaching the land before the sun rose; at which time the horizon, from
+being clearer, would have presented a more distinct view of distant
+objects. The group of islands to the eastward was observed to extend no
+farther to the southward than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and
+beyond this was an open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing
+was taken was on the north-west trend of the point.
+
+On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one of the
+boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in looking round,
+heard the voices of natives among the trees about thirty yards off; but
+as they could not see them they very properly descended, and carried on
+their operations in the vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two
+or three hours afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance.
+The foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the
+high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the natives had
+been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The gentlemen brought off
+a few shells and some insects, among which was a beautiful sphynx;
+besides which one of the boat's crew caught a species of vampyrus,
+apparently similar to the flying fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was
+not a great variety; a chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the
+trochus (caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the
+fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have served the
+purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long and ten inches in
+diameter.
+
+The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier thought that
+shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have completed our water
+at this point, but from the place appearing to be populous and, as the
+vessel could not be anchored sufficiently near the shore to have
+protected the boat's crews, it was feared that our work might be impeded
+by the natives.
+
+The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting underweigh; but
+the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock before we weathered Point
+Cunningham, when the tide was urging us forward rapidly. In steering
+round the point we found ourselves passing through some light coloured
+water and, before we could extricate the brig, were in three and a half
+fathoms; the anchor was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the
+assistance of the sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained
+whilst the whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the
+shoalest part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again
+weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point
+Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled sand and
+stones.
+
+In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a half from
+the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which was called at Mr.
+Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay in which we anchored,
+Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of
+Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham found a new species of velleia (of
+the natural order Goodenoviae).
+
+We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness of the
+weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 and 89 degrees,
+and when the breeze was light or the weather calm the air was
+insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very much, but happily
+without any very serious consequences.
+
+In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen sitting in the
+shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, attentively watching us;
+but upon being joined by three others, who came towards them from Point
+Cunningham, got up and walked away. We have yet to learn how far these
+people may be confided in, for we were not at a very great distance from
+Hanover Bay where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst
+them unarmed.
+
+February 13.
+
+We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the following
+morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from south-east, the only
+direction from which we experienced any wind; the breeze generally blew
+strong at night, whilst during the day it was light, or nearly calm; so
+that during the night we were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was
+at all suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or
+entirely prevented from weighing.
+
+Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell calm and
+the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over rocky ground, carried
+us close to a reef of dry rocks to the northward of Foul Point without
+our being able to avoid it. At a little before five o'clock the
+flood-tide was nearly expended and obliged us to drop the chain-cabled
+anchor at the distance of three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of
+rotten yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but
+from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground there was
+reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently great fears were
+entertained for the safety of our anchor.
+
+Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern head of which
+bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the loss and perplexity we
+met with in it, was afterwards called Disaster Bay, and its south
+extreme, off which is a small rocky island, was named Repulse Point.
+
+During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which proved
+useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the land to the
+south-eastward, in which direction nothing had previously been seen; it
+appeared to be very low and level, and similar to the character of the
+coast on the southward of Cape Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared
+off and the appearance of the land gradually sank below the horizon we
+were instantly relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced
+during the day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91
+degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to 120
+degrees.
+
+Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they were
+walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon disappeared among
+the trees and bushes which here grow close down to the waterside; they
+were armed with spears and appeared to be watching our movements; for
+they moved along in the direction of our course and did not afterwards
+make their appearance during the evening.
+
+February 14.
+
+The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light breeze but, at
+noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could not be got underweigh,
+either with safety or utility, the boats were despatched in different
+directions to improve our knowledge of the place.
+
+At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, that had
+not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry at low tide for
+some extent, it is also shoal some distance to the northward, as our boat
+had only four feet in passing over it. In the afternoon, as there was
+every appearance of fine weather and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr.
+Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point,
+in order to make what observations they could upon the further trend of
+the land; but no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up
+and freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was no
+chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of recovering it, we
+were obliged to return to our former anchorage in Goodenough Bay; but,
+owing to the tide being contrary, the brig did not reach it until nearly
+sunset. Our alarm and anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the
+safety of Mr. Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been
+hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the boat was
+too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark signal guns were
+fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to guide its return.
+
+Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at ten o'clock
+the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed in reaching Repulse
+Point but obtained some useful information as to the trend of the land
+round the point, which still appeared to extend to the southward; they
+had not been able to land, but had encountered much danger from the small
+size of the boat, which shipped a great deal of water, so that by the
+time it arrived they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea.
+They had only observed our signals for a few minutes before their
+arrival; for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires
+were so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the shore
+that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon after they
+arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during the greater part
+of the night.
+
+February 15.
+
+The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. In the
+afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search of our lost
+anchor but returned at night without success; for the tide was so strong
+that the buoy did not watch. The next morning it was again intended to
+resume the search, but the weather clouded in and threatened to be so bad
+that all further attempts were abandoned.
+
+This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor left, made
+me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving up for the present
+the examination of this interesting place; and as we wanted both wood and
+water, which we had found no opportunity of obtaining here on account of
+the tempestuous state of the weather, it was purposed we should go to
+Port George the Fourth, which place would afford both security for the
+vessel and facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also
+be made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time in
+the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and tracing the
+continuation of the mainland behind the islands that form the south-east
+coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew nothing. After doing this I hoped
+to be able to continue the examination of the deep bay behind
+Montgomery's Islands, and connect that part with the gulf or strait
+behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of
+anchors made all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done
+without very fine weather, of which there was at present unfortunately no
+appearance.
+
+But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our provisions were
+very much reduced in quantity, and that we had not more than enough to
+last, upon a full allowance, for the voyage to Port Jackson; the hope
+however of procuring more information of this part of the coast was so
+inviting that I did not despair of effecting something in a fortnight
+worth the delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten
+weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our departure for
+ten or twelve days without much risk.
+
+February 16.
+
+Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose any time;
+but from various delays of calm weather and adverse tides could not
+succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th.
+
+It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through which we
+entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig had been drifted
+before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from danger, we directed our
+course to it.
+
+February 17.
+
+And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner entrance, during
+which we had once nearly struck on a reef of rocks, found ourselves at
+daylight drifting through it with a rapid ebb-tide without a breath of
+wind. The tide however lasted long enough to carry us out, and when the
+flood commenced, which would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze
+sprang up from the westward and very soon carried us clear of the
+influence of the tide.
+
+With respect to the opening we had now left there were many conflicting
+opinions among us, but I have every reason to think that the land from
+Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island and that there is also a
+communication between Cygnet and Collier's Bays, behind the islands of
+the Archipelago, where it is also probable there is an opening trending
+to the south-east. The great rise and fall of the tides in the
+neighbourhood of Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion;
+and the only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the
+water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be caused by
+the numerous banks and channels existing there, and which, of themselves
+alone, are indicative of the opening being something more than a mere
+bay.
+
+As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in commotion; heavy
+dense clouds were collected, from which we had thunder and lightning. At
+seven o'clock the appearance was more threatening and, as a squall was
+evidently approaching, the sails were taken in and preparation made to
+meet it: soon after eight o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a
+strong gust of wind, before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing
+most tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night passed
+without any repetition of it; we had however run five miles to leeward:
+had we been obliged to do this last night when underway in Cygnet Bay, or
+been drifted back this evening by the ebb-tide, we should have been very
+dangerously placed, from being surrounded by islands and blinded by the
+darkness of the night. Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no
+way affected, but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the
+afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees.
+
+February 18.
+
+During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and experienced a
+current setting in the direction of North 52 degrees West one mile per
+hour. At eight o'clock the next morning (18th) Adele Island was seen; and
+in the afternoon we passed at a mile and a half from the western side of
+the reef which surrounds it. This island is low and sandy and covered
+with small bushes; it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand
+extends for five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from
+its north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more extensive,
+and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and a half, in a
+north-west direction from its north end, are two dry sandbanks which are
+probably covered at high-water. Light-coloured water extended for three
+miles to the westward and for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the
+water is probably deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered
+over the tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with
+forty-five fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very
+little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally broke
+upon them.
+
+We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night made short
+trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry during the
+afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and when exposed to the
+sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards sunset large flights of
+boobies, terns, and other sea-birds passed by, flying towards the
+islands. One or two stopped to notice us and flew round the brig several
+times.
+
+February 19.
+
+The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had lightning in
+the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the weather clouded in;
+and, from the increasing dampness of the atmosphere, indicated rain.
+
+At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and 7 minutes 1
+second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind was from the
+southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of birds were about the
+vessel, preying upon small fish swimming among the seaweed, of which we
+passed a great quantity. As the evening approached the weather clouded in
+and threatened us with another squall from the eastward. The thermometer
+stood at 88 degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour
+before sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon,
+began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid lightning:
+all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, were furled just
+in time to avoid any bad effects from the squall, which commenced with a
+strong gust from East-South-East and East; it lasted about an hour,
+during the latter part of which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock
+the wind fell to a calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north
+to east and south-east.
+
+February 20.
+
+At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of heavy
+threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my steering to the
+westward to await the issue of this weather, so unfavourable for our
+doing any good upon the coast, as well as increasing the danger of
+navigating among reefs and islands where the tides were so strong. The
+next morning at daylight we had a squall with rain and wind from the
+eastward after which a fresh breeze set in from the same quarter: as this
+weather appeared likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon
+leaving the coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson.
+
+February 21 to 24.
+
+From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between north and
+south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence of the damp,
+unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our course was held to the
+northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon passing, we found a strong
+current setting towards them at the rate of one mile an hour. This
+indraught increases the danger of navigating near this part but I do not
+recollect having experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The
+current, therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and
+probably caused by the variable state of the wind.
+
+1822. February 24 to March 3.
+
+Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light and
+variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent from the
+eastward than from any other point of the compass, I became reconciled to
+the step I had taken of leaving the coast, since it would not have been
+possible to have reached Port George the Fourth to effect any good.
+
+The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the weather was
+consequently extremely oppressive and sultry.
+
+March 3 to 11.
+
+On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes 18 seconds
+and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a breeze sprang up
+from the South-east and carried us within the influence of the trade,
+which blew steadily between South-South-east and South by East and
+advanced us on our passage but carried us considerably to the westward.
+On this course we were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores
+(Scomber thynnus, Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured
+more than twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten
+pounds: The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the
+fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The
+atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade we had
+lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we were within its
+limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a dark brown colour,
+hovered about us and were our daily companions, particularly the latter
+which preyed upon the small fish that were pursued by the albicores.
+
+March 11 to 14.
+
+From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval was supplied
+by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which enabled us to make up
+for the ground we had lost by its having been so much from the southward.
+After this we had variable breezes between South and East-South-East but
+the current, which before had been setting us to the north-west, now set
+to the north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the
+south-westerly swell.
+
+On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 degrees 1
+minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning but as yet neither
+albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their appearance. During the short
+cessation of the trade the atmosphere was very dry until the
+south-easterly winds returned, when it became more humid; but as we
+approached the southern limit of this South-East wind, which may be
+considered to bear more of the character of a periodical wind than the
+trade, the atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32
+degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it veered
+to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had north-easterly winds
+and fine weather of which we made good use.
+
+The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was flying about
+the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which is a remarkable
+occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird before so far without the
+tropic; but here was one nearly five hundred miles to the southward of
+it, and at least three hundred leagues from the nearest land; an
+albatross (Diomedea exulans, Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more
+than nine feet nine inches across the tips of the wings.
+
+February 25.
+
+On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the casks so much
+damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen tons we had only nine on
+board, but as this was thought to be sufficient for our voyage the daily
+issue was not reduced.
+
+March 28.
+
+On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a
+considerable reduction in the allowance.
+
+April 13.
+
+On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land came in
+sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass Strait by the
+passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off Cape Howe we boarded a
+trading brig belonging to Port Jackson bound to Van Diemen's Land, from
+which we obtained pleasing and satisfactory news of our friends at
+Sydney, as also the gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to
+the rank of commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of
+lieutenant. The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances
+of the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most
+satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but precludes me from the
+otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble testimonial of his conduct
+and merits.
+
+Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad weather, which
+delayed our arrival so long that we had expended all our bread and were
+reduced to a very small proportion of water:
+
+April 25.
+
+We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the 25th,
+after an absence of 344 days.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+The Bathurst sails for England.
+Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of Van
+Diemen's Land.
+King George the Third's Sound.
+Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.
+Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.
+Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.
+
+1822. April 25 to September 25.
+
+Upon an examination of the brig's defects after our arrival at Port
+Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as to require a
+considerable repair; but from the difficulty of procuring seasoned wood,
+so long a time elapsed before it was effected that we were not ready for
+sea until the beginning of September, when other delays of minor
+importance detained us until the 25th.
+
+At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of the
+Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the survey should be
+completed; but as we were in want of many things that the colony could
+not furnish, and as we should be detained until the month of February
+before the monsoon would allow of our going upon the coast; it was deemed
+most advantageous for the public service to return without making another
+voyage. Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the
+intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and calling
+at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to sea than a hard
+gale set in from the north which induced me to bear up and either to go
+round Van Diemen's Land to the westward, if the wind should favour such a
+proceeding, or, by doubling the south end of New Zealand to make the
+eastern passage round Cape Horn.
+
+1822. October 6.
+
+Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen's Land on the 6th of
+October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the same time, I
+determined upon adopting the first plan; and therefore proceeded round
+the south side of the island, in doing which I had the opportunity of
+verifying some observations formerly taken by which it appeared that the
+coast between Storm Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid
+down both by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under
+d'Entrecasteaux and Baudin.
+
+On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many errors in the
+bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect an original error, and
+on this occasion a very considerable one was detected.
+
+When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen's Land in the Norfolk he
+obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the sun to the south, his
+vessel being under the land, which made the South-west Cape in 43 degrees
+29 minutes South; but finding the next day that his instrument was 2
+minutes 40 seconds in error to the north he assigned to the cape a
+position of 43 degrees 32 minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he
+makes some remarks in a note upon the positions assigned to it by
+Captains Cook and Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39
+minutes, in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the
+South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its position
+is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from the South Cape.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page 179.)
+
+All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in error as to
+latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to the coast. The
+subjoined are the positions now assigned to the following places, namely:
+
+COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE.
+COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.
+COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS' SURVEY.
+
+South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56 minutes.
+
+Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2 minutes.
+
+South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12 minutes.
+
+The south-east cape of Bruny Island, Tasman's Head, is also placed too
+much to the southward in Captain Flinders' chart as well as in that of
+Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line with the south-east cape on
+the bearing of North 56 degrees East (the vessel's head being to the
+eastward); and on this occasion (the brig's head being to the westward)
+it bore, when in the same line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in
+the latter case was 9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6
+degrees was allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees
+sufficient.
+
+I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came on with the
+points of the land between the south-west and the south-east capes, by
+which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of the correctness of my
+observations and of the error into which Captain Flinders had fallen, and
+which must either be attributed to the imperfection of his instrument or
+to his reading off the altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just
+that difference between it and the position assigned by Captain Furneaux,
+which is also confirmed by my observation, the probability is in favour
+of the last conjecture.
+
+After leaving the coast of Van Diemen's Land we had much damp,
+unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in which
+the brig was occasionally much pressed.
+
+1822. November 8-31.
+
+And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald Island, which
+is to the eastward of King George's Sound. We were now much in need of a
+place to caulk the bends, as well as to repair some temporary damage to
+the rigging and complete our wood and water. I therefore seized the
+opportunity of our being near the sound and, steering into it, anchored
+off the sandy bay within Seal Island and immediately commenced
+operations. We were however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which
+not only prevented the carpenter's caulking, but also delayed our
+watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the
+anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience than
+the delay.
+
+A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the appearance of a
+strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved to be an American
+schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in for the purpose of
+careening and cleaning the vessel's bottom in Oyster Harbour. The natives
+also made their appearance and some of them being our old friends,
+immediately recognised us.
+
+As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the vessel to
+the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the northern head of which,
+at the south end of the long sandy beach, the trees were growing in
+abundance close to the beach: it was at this place also that Captain
+Flinders obtained his wood; and excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour
+it is the most convenient place in the whole sound.
+
+Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives, many of
+them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend Coolbun, the
+native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in explaining to his
+companions the effect of the shot that was fired. On one occasion, when
+they were on board, an immense shark was hooked, but broke the hook and
+escaped, which was a great disappointment to them, for they evidently
+anticipated a luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the
+breeze blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement
+of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men. On this
+occasion the names of several of the natives were obtained, which have
+been inserted with a few additional words at the end of the list obtained
+from them during our former visit.* Our friend Jack did not make his
+appearance, nor did the natives at all seem to understand for whom we
+were enquiring.
+
+(*Footnote. See above.)
+
+As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an anchorage off
+the watering bay which proved a more convenient place than under Seal
+Island, as it was better sheltered and nearer to the watering-place.
+After riding out a heavy gale from the westward at single anchor without
+any accident and as soon as our water was completed, we again anchored
+for a day under Seal Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before
+we succeeded in getting out to sea.
+
+Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to Oyster
+Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had hitherto been
+a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our former visits the season
+was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was equally unfortunate. The plant
+resembles xanthorrhoea, both in its trunk and leaves, but bears its
+flower in a very different manner; for, instead of throwing out one long
+flower scape, it produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each
+terminated by an oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large
+grove of these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on
+the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there found
+the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw a
+considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were procured and
+brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given in the view of King
+George's Sound in Captain Flinders' account of the Investigator's
+voyage.** In the list of the plants collected by me upon this occasion
+was a splendid species of anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and
+had escaped the observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham.
+Living plants of various genera were also procured: among which were
+several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which however
+alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the royal gardens at
+Kew.
+
+(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards collected by Mr.
+Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his employer, to my friend Mr.
+Brown, the original discoverer of the tree in Captain Flinders' voyage,
+and the author of the paper in the appendix at the end of the volume
+relating to it.)
+
+(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.)
+
+December 1 to February 9, 1823.
+
+Having effected our departure from King George's Sound we proceeded on
+our way towards Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, which we reached on
+the 14th January after a passage of forty-six days without encountering a
+gale of wind or the occurrence of any event worth recording.
+
+February 9 to April 23.
+
+We left Simon's Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching at St.
+Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6 minutes West; and
+on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores, one of the Azores. On the
+same morning we fell in with two French men of war, a frigate and a
+corvette, who bore down but, upon showing our colours, hauled their wind
+and resumed their course without communicating with us. Between this and
+the Channel we were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The
+Lizard Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the
+following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of more
+than six years.
+
+It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief observations
+upon what has been effected by these voyages, and what yet remains to be
+done upon the northern coasts of Australia. Beginning with the
+north-eastern coast, I have been enabled to lay down a very safe and
+convenient track for vessels bound through Torres Strait, and to
+delineate the coastline between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54
+minutes South, and Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a
+distance of six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not
+authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could not
+penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that presented
+themselves in this space; particularly in the neighbourhoods of Cape
+Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where the intersected and broken
+appearances of the hills at the back are matters of interesting enquiry
+and research.
+
+My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and the
+North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the western coast. The
+examination of the northern and part of the north-western coasts, from
+Wessel Islands to Port George the Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and
+ninety miles, has been carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every
+opening has been explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require
+examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait, and one
+of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge Gulf, trending in
+to the south-east: otherways, the coast comprised within these limits has
+been sufficiently examined for all the purposes of navigation.
+
+The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island, containing
+two hundred and twenty miles, has also been sufficiently explored; but
+between the latter island and Port George the Fourth, a distance of five
+hundred and ten miles, it yet remains almost unknown. The land that is
+laid down is nothing more than an archipelago of islands fronting the
+mainland, the situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of
+these islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that
+and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who merely
+occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present however this
+is conjecture; but the space is of considerable extent and, if there is
+an opening into the interior of New Holland, it is in the vicinity of
+this part. Off the Buccaneer's Archipelago the tides are strong and rise
+to the height of thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these
+islands, which we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other
+circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings of
+importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be a
+communication at this part with the interior for a considerable distance
+from the coast.
+
+The examination of the western coast was performed during an almost
+continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of making any very
+careful observation upon its shores. There can however be very little
+more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend the difficulty of landing is
+too great ever to expect to gain much information; for it is only in
+Shark's Bay that a vessel can anchor with safety.
+
+With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been procured
+upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the small size of the
+vessel and our constant professional duties prevented my extending them.
+Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds were very numerous but the operation
+of skinning and preserving them would have taken up more time than could
+be afforded. A few insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens
+of the geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things
+obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of plants
+formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession of Mr. Aiton, of
+the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which establishment it would seem that they
+were solely procured. It was in fact the only department of natural
+history in which any pains were taken and for which every assistance was
+rendered. A small herbarium was however collected by me, containing
+nearly five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected
+friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments in the
+field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be hoped however that
+the few subjects offered to the scientific world in the appendix, through
+the kindness of my friends, will not be thought uninteresting or
+unimportant; and that they will serve to show how very desirable it is to
+increase the comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this
+extensive country, which in this respect might still with propriety
+retain its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA.
+
+Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were received at
+the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M. Ship Tamar who was
+despatched by the government in the early part of last year (1824) to
+take possession of Arnhem's Land, upon the north coast of the continent,
+and to form an establishment upon the most eligible spot that could be
+found for a mercantile depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the
+following particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S.
+Roe, my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant of
+the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which, as the
+sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be deemed irrelevant
+or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by Captain Bremer was
+discovered during the early part of the said voyage.*
+
+(*Footnote. See volume 1.)
+
+The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824; when every
+facility was rendered by the colonial government to further the object in
+view. The expedition sailed thence in less than a month with a detachment
+of the 3rd regiment and forty-five convicts, in addition to the party of
+Royal Marines that had been embarked before the Tamar left England. The
+establishment was placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd
+regiment. A merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to
+convey the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig, was
+also placed at the disposal of the commandant.
+
+Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: "We had a very
+favourable passage to the northward, and in less than three weeks cleared
+Torres Strait by the route you recommended to Captain Bremer, without
+encountering any accident. We nevertheless saw several shoals that, in
+our former voyages in the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by
+reason of the greater altitude of the Tamar's masthead affording a much
+more extensive view on either side of our course." The particulars of
+these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix, under the
+description of the North-East Coast, in the order in which they occur.
+
+Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port Essington.
+Lieutenant Roe then says, "Having brought the ship to anchor off Table
+Point in Port Essington, all the boats were hoisted out and the marines
+landed, when, an union-jack being fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the
+extremity of the point, formal possession was taken of the north coast of
+Australia, between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of
+Greenwich. The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute,
+upon the occasion.
+
+"Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched in various
+directions for that purpose; but after traversing many miles of country,
+and coasting a great deal of the port, only one place was discovered (the
+low sandy east point of entrance to Inner Harbour) where any was to be
+procured, and it was then only obtained by digging deep holes in the
+sand. A large Malay encampment had recently removed from this spot,
+leaving their fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of
+firewood to season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were
+seen, not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country
+was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched with
+drought, which was by no means in favour of our views. Having buried a
+sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an account of our
+proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed at the expiration of
+two days for Apsley Strait.
+
+(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on the left of the
+picture in the view of Port Essington, volume 1.)
+
+"Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until the 24th, and
+it was not before the 26th that we brought up close to Luxmoore Head, in
+St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in a similar manner and with the
+same forms as at Port Essington, and we commenced a strict search for
+water in every direction in the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared
+so desirable and commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance
+we eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding fresh
+water in its neighbourhood.
+
+"At the expiration of five or six days a small river and plenty of water
+was discovered on Melville Island abreast of Harris Island; and an
+eligible situation for the intended new settlement being discovered near
+it, the ships were removed thither on the 2nd of October, and parties
+landed to commence immediate operations with the axe and saw. The
+projection of land fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the
+commandant (Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor
+was named King's Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the original
+discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley Strait, between
+Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the name of Port Cockburn, in
+honour of Vice Admiral Sir George Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of
+the Admiralty.
+
+(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my friend John Harris,
+Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd Regiment, who has served so long
+and so faithfully in various offices under the government of New South
+Wales.)
+
+"All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing Point Barlow of
+wood and other impediments, we were speedily enabled to commence the
+erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in length by fifty wide; to be
+built of the trunks of the felled trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch
+ten feet wide and deep. On the memorable 21st of October, our
+quarter-deck guns were landed and mounted, the colours were hoisted for
+the first time, and the work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute
+from itself.
+
+"From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a fortified
+village; quarters were constructed within the walls of the fort for the
+accommodation of the officers belonging to the establishment, and about
+thirty huts of various kinds were erected, and thatched with rushes for
+the soldiers and convicts. A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good
+substantial wharf ran out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat
+storehouse was finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess
+of Harcourt and secured there.
+
+"The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being exceedingly good,
+gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon produced all kinds of
+vegetables. In our stock we were rather unfortunate, for of six sheep
+that were landed for the purpose of breeding, five died, supposed from
+the effect produced by eating some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs,
+ducks, and fowls seemed however in a fair way of doing well, and had
+increased considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience
+was experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would not
+only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would have spared
+the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the effects of a vertical
+sun: all difficulties and obstacles were however met and overcome with
+the greatest zeal and perseverance, and the works proceeded with such
+spirit and alacrity, that we were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th
+of November, without exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy
+of the Malays, or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the
+former people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that
+would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native made his
+appearance before the early part of November when, as if by signal, a
+party of about eighteen on each shore communicated with us on the same
+day and were very friendly, although exceedingly suspicious and timid.
+They would not venture within the line of the outer hut and always came
+armed, but laid aside their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were
+made. On the second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see
+amongst them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in
+colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like all the
+rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with soot and grease,
+to appear like the others, but the difference was plainly perceptible. On
+perceiving that he was the object of our conversation, a certain archness
+and lively expression came over his countenance, which a native
+Australian would have strained his features in vain to have produced. The
+natives appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must
+have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the woods.*
+
+(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and during our
+communication with the natives a boy of the above description was noticed
+among them; he was brought down upon the shoulders of one of the Indians,
+in which position he is represented in the view. See volume 1.)
+
+"These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they called
+paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on their first
+appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their goodwill by giving
+them more, and three were accordingly presented to individuals among them
+who appeared to be in authority. They were of course much pleased, but
+the next day several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from
+men employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to
+understand that until these articles were restored no more would be
+given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they determined upon
+seizing these implements on every occasion that presented itself; so that
+it was found necessary to protect our working parties in the woods by a
+guard; the result of which was that the natives threw their spears
+whenever resistance was offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon
+the aggressors.
+
+"Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the natives
+increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred round the
+settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not sufficiently to
+prevent about sixty of them surprising five of the marines in a swamp
+cutting rushes, and throwing their spears amongst them: their salute was
+immediately returned, and they disappeared without any damage having been
+done on either side; at the same minute however reports of musketry were
+heard at our watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an
+attack that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering and
+two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at ten yards'
+distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and our people thought
+that several others were wounded as they disappeared making most strange
+noises, and have not been near us since. One of the spears thrown upon
+the last occasion had sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were
+merely scraped to a sharp point without even one barb, and were not
+thrown with anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none
+of their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our people
+at the distance only of a few yards."
+
+Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India station and
+despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior destination. The
+settlement was left in a very forward state and consisted altogether of
+one hundred and twenty-six individuals of whom there were 3 or 4 women
+and forty-five convicts; the remainder were composed of detachments of
+the 3rd regiment (the Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the
+command of Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with
+Commandant Barlow.
+
+Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at some future
+time must become a place of considerable consequence in the eastern
+world. The soil and climate of Melville and Bathurst Islands are capable
+of growing all the valuable productions of the East, particularly spices,
+and many other equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently
+placed for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions from
+Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of mercantile
+speculation.
+
+Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the honour to
+direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be examined; and
+although, for the general purposes of navigation, it has been quite
+sufficiently explored, yet there are many spaces upon the chart left
+blank that would be highly interesting to examine and really important to
+know. We have but a slight knowledge also of the natural history of the
+continent; slight however as it is, no country has ever produced a more
+extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country has proved
+richer than Australia in every branch of natural history; and it has
+besides, this advantage, that as the greater part is yet entirely
+unknown, so much the more does it excite the interest of the geographer
+and naturalist.
+
+The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by degrees:
+want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a task, but all these
+difficulties will be gradually overcome by the indefatigable zeal of our
+countrymen, of whose researches in all parts of the world the present
+times teem with such numerous examples.
+
+
+
+APPENDIX A.
+
+Previously to entering into the detail of the following coast-directions,
+in which it has been attempted, for the sake of a more easy reference, to
+collect all the nautical information under one general head, it may be
+proper to premise that Captain Flinders, in the account of his voyage,*
+has given two very useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be
+experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as
+information respecting its general navigation and particular
+sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson through Torres
+Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. From these chapters
+Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his valuable work on the Hydrography
+etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set of sailing-directions and other nautical
+information** that will be found useful for the navigation of the
+southern and eastern coasts of this continent.
+
+(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 book 2 chapter 11.)
+
+(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 pages 493 and 515.)
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 1.
+
+OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND
+COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA SPIT.
+
+EAST COAST.
+
+The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that part of the
+coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea Spit and Port
+Jackson, except during the summer months when winds from that quarter
+prevail and often blow very hard; they are then accompanied by heavy
+rains and very thick weather: generally however from October to April
+they assume the character of a sea-breeze and, excepting during their
+suspension by south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the
+month of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in
+February and March they are very frequent.
+
+In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will sometimes
+last for two or three days, and are almost always suddenly terminated by
+a gust of wind from the southward. The most prevailing winds, during all
+seasons, are from the south, and are probably oftener from the eastward
+of that point than from the westward. The current always sets to the
+southward, and has been found by us on several occasions to set the
+strongest during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is
+in the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, between
+Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it sometimes sets in
+towards it. In a gale from the South-East in the month of December 1820,
+it must have been setting as much to the westward as South-West. This
+should be attended to, particularly in south-easterly gales, and an
+offing preserved to provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East
+and East by South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting
+upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in
+considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about one mile
+per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the rate of nearly three
+knots.
+
+To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New Caledonia
+the current sets to the North-West, which carries a great body of water
+into the bight between the former and New Guinea; but as Torres Strait
+offers but a very inconsiderable outlet the stream is turned, and sets to
+the southward until it gradually joins the easterly current which, from
+the prevalence of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van
+Diemen's Land and Cape Horn.
+
+The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in few places
+rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting where they are
+affected by local circumstances.
+
+There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast between Port
+Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points out Broken Bay, Port
+Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal Bay for vessels not
+exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House (Moreton) Bay. There are however
+other anchorages that might be resorted to in the event of being thrown
+upon a lee shore, which are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and
+Glass House Bay.
+
+There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point Stevens
+which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port Macquarie also
+affords shelter for small vessels; and on the north side of Smoky Cape
+there is good shelter from southerly or south-easterly winds: but the
+whole of these, excepting Broken Bay, are only attainable by small
+vessels. A large ship must keep an offing; and as the coast is not at all
+indented the wind must blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to
+be placed in danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a
+safe and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which
+fronts it.
+
+PORT JACKSON.
+
+The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes
+11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds east of Sir Thomas
+Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds
+East of Greenwich. It is a revolving light and may be seen at the
+distance of ten leagues. The Inner South Head bears from it North 20
+degrees West* and is distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The
+North Head bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by
+compass, about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the
+narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North and
+South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so that there is
+abundance of room to work in should the wind blow out of the Port. On
+arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between the North and South Heads
+until you are past the line of bearing of the Outer North, and the Inner
+South Heads: then haul round the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that
+extends for two hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a
+projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour opens round
+the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either side of the Sow and
+Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the narrowest, is perhaps the
+best; but this, in a great measure, depends upon the direction of the
+wind. The eastern channel is the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle
+Ground, is the only danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and
+rocks, of about eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and
+fifty in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a
+very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, upon which
+the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon the outer end of the
+shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the Outer North and the Inner
+South Heads. The south-western tail of the bank is chiefly of sand, with
+rocks scattered about it; but, on the greater portion of it, there is
+twelve feet water; it gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms,
+which is beyond the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the
+Western Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer
+towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of a mile
+above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard bow, and the sea
+horizon open between the points of entrance, until you are within the
+line of bearing between a small sandy beach on the western shore and
+Green Point; the latter is a grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove.
+Then steer for George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have
+passed the line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the
+sandy beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding
+Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for perhaps
+one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut Island, and, in
+hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that extends off Point
+Bennelong for rather more than two hundred yards into the sea.
+
+To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the Sow and
+Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of the Inner North
+Head is in a line with the inner trend of the former, bearing by compass
+North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer South-South-West until you have
+passed Green Point, when the course may be directed at pleasure up the
+harbour.
+
+In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than three and a
+quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor within two hundred
+yards of the shore, for although it is bold in most parts close to, yet
+there are some few straggling rocks off the south point of Watson's Bay,
+and also some round Shark's Island. There is good anchorage in all parts
+of the harbour, when within Middle and the South Heads. There is also
+anchorage in North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell
+sometimes rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however,
+affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and Pigs.
+
+SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards wide, and
+will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their moorings. The
+shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals that extend off Point
+Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may approach very near.
+
+On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for heaving down:
+it belongs to the government, but merchant ships may use it, by paying a
+small sum according to the length of time it is engaged. Wood and water
+are easily obtained from the north shore of the port; the former may be
+cut close to the beach; the latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting
+during a very dry season, is always abundant.
+
+The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight feet, but six
+feet is the general rise; it is high water at Sydney Cove at half past
+eight o'clock, but at the heads, it precedes this time by a quarter of an
+hour. The variation of the magnetic needle observed on shore by
+Lieutenant Roe:
+
+at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East,
+
+at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East,
+
+at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East.
+
+As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain Horsburgh's
+Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary to descant further
+upon the nature of the winds and currents of the east coast; since this
+subject has been so fully treated upon, in the above valuable book, in
+the section that commences at page 501.
+
+Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany Bay at page
+502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to Lieutenant Jeffreys,
+R.N., who commanded the hired armed transport Kangaroo, the latter
+harbour has a bar stretching across from the south to the north head, on
+which there is not less than five fathoms water.
+
+PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East (true)
+from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse at its southern
+entrance, and pilots are established who come off to vessels that arrive.
+The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude 32 degrees 56 minutes,
+longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an insulated rock: and the passage
+is indicated by keeping two lights, that are placed at a distance from
+each other at the wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred
+yards from the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are
+dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in going in.
+The above information is from a plan drawn by Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the
+Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816;
+since which a portion of the labour of the convicts has been employed in
+building a breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby
+Rock, which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel,
+and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a south-east
+gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The town was formerly
+called King's Town, but it has since been changed to that of Newcastle,
+and the appellation of the Coal River has partly superseded the more
+legitimate name of Port Hunter.
+
+PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless the wind is
+fair, on account of the shoals that are near its entrance. Point Stephens
+is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes
+45 seconds.
+
+BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good anchorage; the
+head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds. Between Black Head,
+and the hills called the Brothers, are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32
+degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0
+minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they
+were discovered by Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey
+in 1819; they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of
+extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and occupy a
+considerable space between the coast and the mountains.
+
+In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the distance of two
+miles and a quarter from the shore, is a dangerous reef, on which the sea
+constantly breaks; it was named by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it,
+the MERMAID'S REEF; it is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears
+South 85 degrees East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of
+the reef is separated from the principal rock, within which there
+appeared to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without
+the latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the
+North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting its
+entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 degrees) are
+not yet known, but it is supposed to be very shoal.
+
+PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its entrance is
+about two miles and two-thirds to the North-North-West of Tacking Point.
+It is a bar harbour, and, like Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on
+account of the banks of sand that project from the low north sandy point
+of entrance, on which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these
+however serve to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety
+yards wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction from
+Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped hillock) whence
+the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly a west direction to the
+narrow entrance opposite Pelican Point.
+
+Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches across
+towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and twenty yards in
+extent.
+
+The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two sunken rocks,
+the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North 45 degrees West
+(true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred yards. When Green Mound
+Point and the next point to the southward of it are in a line, you are
+within a few yards of the shoalest part of the bar. After passing the
+bar, there are from two to four fathoms water. Since the examination of
+this harbour, a penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed
+to conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky islet,
+the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous to pass. There
+is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, about half a mile
+outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which gradually deepens for three
+miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any part of which a vessel may anchor to
+await high water.
+
+Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds South.
+
+Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East.
+
+Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds East.
+
+High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes.
+
+Tide rises four to five feet.
+
+The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees 55 minutes
+40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on a second
+expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its being settled, is a
+convenient roadstead during southerly winds: it is situated on the north
+side of Smoky Cape, and affords an anchorage in three fathoms, protected
+from the sea as far as North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured
+from a stream that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky
+Cape is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight feet
+water.
+
+SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following description
+of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra Australis, Introduction,
+cxcv.)
+
+"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, there is ten
+feet at low water; and within side the depth is from two to four fathoms,
+in a channel near the south shore: the rest of the bar is mostly occupied
+by shoals, over which boats can scarcely pass when the tide is out. High
+water appeared to take place about seven hours after the moon's passage;
+at which time a ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture
+in, if severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by its
+latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on the low
+land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill somewhat peaked,
+which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from that direction."
+
+CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 153
+degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in latitude 28 degrees 24
+minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 minutes.
+
+THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on which there
+is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and a half to the north
+of a small island off Point Danger, which lies in latitude 28 degrees 8
+minutes.
+
+In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet at the
+south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north extremity is
+Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal and only passable for
+boats.
+
+MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by Captain
+Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the Brisbane, a very
+fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 degrees 25 minutes
+latitude, abreast of the strait between Moreton Island and Point Lookout.
+
+(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass House Bay, in allusion
+to the name given by Captain Cook to three remarkable glass house-looking
+hills near Pumice-stone River; but as Captain Cook bestowed the name of
+Moreton Bay upon the strait to the south of Moreton Island, that name has
+a prior claim, and is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has
+lately been formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the
+north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.)
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction cxcvi.)
+
+WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 minutes, was
+examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the government colonial
+vessels; he found it to be a good port, having in its entrance a channel
+of not less than three fathoms deep; and to communicate with Hervey's
+Bay, thus making an island of the Great Sandy Peninsula.
+
+INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 153 degrees
+23 minutes.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 2.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND
+COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE YORK.
+
+NORTH-EAST COAST.
+
+The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore by
+north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and August, the
+only season that I have any experience of the winds and weather upon the
+north-east coast; the weather is generally thick and cloudy, and often
+accompanied with showers of rain, particularly during the two first
+months.
+
+	In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we
+experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered
+to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood
+of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the
+north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced
+westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather.
+Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady.
+To the north of this point, however, the winds are always
+constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the
+westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they
+generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the
+weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the
+navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last
+voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so
+thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead;
+we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in
+sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such
+a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage
+than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare
+of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the
+afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season
+(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom
+veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of
+East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea
+Spit, through Torres Strait.
+
+The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the beginning of
+May, or between the middle of August and latter end of October; in the
+months of June and July, the passage is not apparently so safe, on
+account of the changeable weather that may be encountered, which to a
+stranger would create much anxiety, although no real danger. Strict
+attention to these directions and confidence in the chart, with a
+cautious lookout will, however, neutralize all the dangers that thick
+weather may produce in this navigation.
+
+The tides and currents in this part are not of much consequence. The rise
+of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to the North-West, but at a very
+slow rate. In the neighbourhood of the reefs, the stream sometimes sets
+at the rate of a knot or in some cases at two knots, but for a small
+distance it is scarcely perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle
+drain of current to the North-West.
+
+HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by Captains Cook
+and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I have nothing to offer in
+addition to the valuable information of those navigators (Hawkesworth
+volume 3 page 113 and 117; and Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2
+page 9 et seq.)
+
+LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and trees, and
+surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for three-quarters of a mile
+from its north-east end; the island is not more than three-quarters of a
+mile long, and about a quarter of a mile broad; it is dangerous to
+approach at night, from being very low. It is situated thirty miles North
+53 degrees West (magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid
+down in Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes,
+and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and wooded like
+Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and North-West from each other;
+the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a coral reef projecting for two miles
+and a half to the North-East: four miles and a half to the North-West of
+the north-westernmost (or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the
+heavy breakers upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs.
+The centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51
+minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds. Off
+the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small detached islet connected
+to it by a reef; and off the north-east end of the 3rd island is another
+islet, also connected by a coral reef.
+
+The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league wide, are
+quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a mile of the south
+end of the reef off the 3rd island, without getting bottom with ten
+fathoms.
+
+RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to the
+northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels of one
+hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between two sandbanks,
+which communicate with either shore. In hauling round the point, steer
+for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point covered with trees, keeping the
+centre of it in the bearing of about South (magnetic); you will then
+carry first five, then six and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the
+north low sandy point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side,
+the extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one
+mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third of a mile
+from the low sandy point bearing North.
+
+In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, on the
+south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank projects for a
+mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre of the channel,
+between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about one third of a mile
+from the former, you will have seven, eight, and nine fathoms water,
+until it bears North by East when it shoals to five fathoms. The
+situation of the extremity of the low sandy point upon Captain Flinders'
+chart (East Coast sheet 3) is in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45
+seconds, and longitude 151 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water
+takes place at eight hours and a half after the moon's transit.
+
+In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until you are in
+a line with the north points of Facing Island and Bustard Bay.
+
+There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of the low sandy
+point, but it was not thought to be a durable stream. Wood may be cut
+close to the beach, and embarked without impediment.
+
+PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has merely
+confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island (latitude 22
+degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds) which
+is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The channel in, on the north side
+of the island, is free from danger, but, on the south side, between it
+and Cape Clinton, there is an extensive shoal on which the sea breaks
+heavily: it was not ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off
+the south end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The
+inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the mid-channel
+the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands on the western side
+of the inlet are steep to, and should be avoided, for the tide sweeps
+upon them. The best anchorage is in the sandy bay round the inner trend
+of the cape (latitude 22 degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150
+degrees 44 minutes) where both wood and water are convenient. In steering
+in from sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters
+of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven fathoms,
+avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the inner trend of the
+cape, the water will shoal to three and three-quarter fathoms, but do not
+approach too near the point. When you have opened the inlet, steer in,
+and, having passed the inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern
+side, where you may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure.
+
+The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North 1/4 East by
+compass, from the high round island, and North by West 1/4 West when in a
+line with Entrance Island.
+
+High water appears to take place half an hour later than at Entrance
+Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's southing (the
+moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not rise more than six
+feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. Captain Flinders supposes
+the spring tides to rise not less than fifteen feet. The variation of the
+compass was 9 degrees 5 minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance
+Island, according to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East.
+
+NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees East
+(magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is a low rock
+which, at high water, is very little above the surface of the sea; it is
+very dangerous because it is in the direct track of vessels steering
+towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the observation of Captain Flinders.
+
+In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten miles from
+the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, but I am not aware
+whether they are covered: they were seen by Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815.
+
+Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a hill at
+the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore South 60 degrees
+West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant about eight or nine
+miles. The variation of the compass here is between 7 and 8 degrees East.
+
+The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; the bay at
+the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and not safe to anchor
+in, excepting during a south-east wind: the anchorage at Number 2, inside
+the Pine Islets, is bad, since the bottom is rocky; the ground is,
+however, clearer more to the southward; on the whole this anchorage is
+not insecure, since there is a safe passage out either on the north or
+south sides of the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and
+water also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders
+was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it
+abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the anchorage in
+the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, the flood sets to the
+south, and the ebb to the north; the maximum rate was one and a quarter
+knot. High water occurred at the latter place two hours and a half before
+the moon's passage; but on the following day did not precede it more than
+one hour and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on
+shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders volume 2
+page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was thirteen days old.
+The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude 21 degrees 44 minutes 50
+seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of
+Number 2 is in latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150
+degrees 13 minutes.
+
+In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 seconds,
+longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain Cook's ship got into
+shoal water, and at one time had as little as three fathoms (Hawkesworth
+volume 3 page 131); and the merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815,
+met with a sandbank extending from the island off the point in a
+north-east direction for ten miles, on one part of which she found only
+nine feet water.
+
+The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, and, when
+the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two miles and a half, had
+four and three-quarter fathoms, which was the least water that was found,
+but, being then high water, five or six feet, if not more, may be
+deducted, to reduce it to the proper low water sounding. There was no
+appearance of shoaler water near us, and it is probable that Captain
+Cook's and the Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation
+of the compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes
+East.
+
+CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point in
+latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 0
+minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen seven or eight
+leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 minutes East.
+
+The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 degrees 6
+minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky islands; they are all
+abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, which grow to a larger size
+than at the Percy Isles. We did not land upon any of them; they appeared
+to be of bold approach, and not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are
+from six to eight hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the
+northern island are much higher.
+
+k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 54
+minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile in diameter; it is
+of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile off its south-east end there
+is a dry rocky lump.
+
+k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 minutes 30
+seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has a
+considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a half off both its
+north-west and south-east ends; on the latter is a small rocky islet.
+
+k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 44 minutes
+55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef off its south-east
+and north-west ends, stretching off at least a mile. On the south-east
+reef is a dry rocky islet.
+
+THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small islets of
+moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by deep water. The
+variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East.
+
+k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 1/2, in
+latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets to the westward
+of them, were seen only at a distance.
+
+l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in latitude 20
+degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two islands, l 3, in latitude
+20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l 4, in latitude 20 degrees 45
+minutes 30 seconds, are also high, but we were not nearer to them than
+six or seven miles; l 2, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds,
+longitude 149 degrees 33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which
+Captain Flinders landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says,
+"This little island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile
+long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water took place
+ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done among the barrier
+reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be the rise by the shore, and
+the flood came from the northward." The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees
+17 minutes East.
+
+m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in latitude 20
+degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 degrees 15 minutes 15
+seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four feet high: there are several
+islets off its south-east end, and one off its north-west end.
+
+SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct islands, and
+perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve miles of them. On the
+principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes 30
+seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or
+eight hundred feet high.
+
+SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 2
+minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to the southward; it
+is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group consists of several
+islands; it is separated from the next to the northward by a channel five
+miles wide. In the centre is PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising
+abruptly out of the sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet.
+Its latitude is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148
+degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and appear to be
+better furnished with wood, and more fertile than the southern groups,
+particularly on their western sides.
+
+The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds and
+longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet
+high, and is situated on the largest island, which is ten miles long, and
+from three to nine broad: it has several bays on either side, and off its
+south-eastern end are four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky
+islets. The northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the
+Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of Whitsunday
+Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes,
+and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds, and is of bold approach:
+on the western side of the island are some low islets.
+
+REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills rise to a
+great height. The extremity of the bay was not distinctly traced, but it
+is probable, upon examining it, that a fresh-water rivulet may be found;
+and there may be a communication with Edgecumbe Bay.
+
+The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by rocks, which
+do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from them. The summit of the
+largest island is in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 5 seconds, and
+longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15
+minutes East.
+
+Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes from the
+north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction of the stream. At
+an anchorage off the island near the latter cape the tide rose twelve
+feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, the rise was eighteen feet. At the
+former place, the moon being full, high water took place at about
+three-quarters past ten o'clock; by an observation the next day at the
+latter, it was a quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one
+and a half knot.
+
+WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the Cumberland
+Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with the exception of a
+small patch or rocks within a quarter of a mile from Cape Conway, and a
+sandbank (that is probably dry, or nearly so at low water) off Round
+Head, is free from danger. The shores appear to be bold to, and the
+depth, in the fairway, varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the
+shoal off Round Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its
+extent was not ascertained.
+
+In steering through the strait, particularly during the flood-tide, this
+shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to the east shore; for the
+tide there sets across the strait; it is about a mile and a half from
+Round Head, in which space the water is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.
+
+Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds) and
+Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be good anchorage out of
+the strength of the tides; and to the north of Round Head is another bay,
+the bottom of which is an isthmus of about a mile wide, separating it
+from an inlet to the westward of Cape Conway. This bay very probably
+affords good anchorage out of the strength of the tides.
+
+CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees
+54 minutes, is the western limit of the south entrance of Whitsunday
+Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off to the eastward: immediately on
+its north side is a small shingly beach, a few yards behind which there
+is a hollow, containing a large quantity of fresh water. At a short
+quarter of a mile from the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between
+which and the shore there is deep water.
+
+PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees
+51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of a small island that
+is separated from the main by a passage of about a mile wide, but we did
+not ascertain whether it is navigable. The head is a high, bluff point,
+clothed with pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for
+that reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it
+appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west side
+affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with grass, and
+thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 degrees 35 minutes
+East.
+
+PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend in for
+four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient port, as it is
+well sheltered from the wind, and is protected from the north-east by a
+group of small islands, thickly wooded. Hence the land trends to the
+north-west towards Cape Gloucester; the shore was very indistinctly seen,
+but seemed to be very much indented, and to possess several bays, if not
+rivers; for the land at the back is very high, and must give rise to
+several mountain, if not navigable, streams.
+
+MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes 10
+seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 seconds, forms a small
+peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as well as from the northern
+extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it is four thousand five hundred and
+sixty-six feet high; and the hills around it are at least from seven
+hundred to a thousand feet in height.
+
+The greater part of the water that collects from these hills probably
+empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it may be distributed
+in lagoons upon the low land that separates them.
+
+At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range extending
+without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. In latitude 21
+degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 36 3/4 minutes is a
+high-rounded summit, which is visible at the distance of twenty leagues:
+between this range, which is at the distance of from five to seven
+leagues from the sea, and the coast, are several ridges gradually
+lowering in altitude as they approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of
+Repulse Bay, this mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track
+of low land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the
+height of the hills, it must be well watered.
+
+CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took originally for
+the cape, is an island of about five miles long and two broad, separated
+from the true Cape Gloucester by a strait, a mile and a half wide. The
+island is called Gloucester Island; its summit at the north end is in
+latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23
+minutes 38 seconds: it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high,
+and its summit is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and,
+although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre and heavy
+appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The cape, in latitude
+20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 26 minutes 15
+seconds, is the extremity of the mountainous range that extends off Mount
+Dryander. The variation observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes
+East.
+
+EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of which are
+very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the bearings of some
+land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; and its greatest breadth,
+at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. It affords excellent shelter; and
+between Middle Island (a small rocky islet of a mile and half in extent)
+and Gloucester Island there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy
+bottom, with protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay
+farther than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight
+fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that appeared to
+be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the most distant
+opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must be a rich and
+interesting country.
+
+HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or eight leagues,
+and has three small islets near it: it is in latitude 19 degrees 41
+minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so high as to be
+visible for more than twenty leagues in clear weather: it rises abruptly
+from a low projection, and forms a long ridge of mountainous land; the
+north-east end of the summit is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50
+seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point
+separates two deep bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance,
+on account of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side
+of Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate in a
+river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and were judged
+to be composed of granite. The variation observed off the point was 6
+degrees 16 minutes East.
+
+CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a considerable distance
+into the sea: its north-east extremity is in latitude 19 degrees 19
+minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 23 minutes East; the
+mountainous ranges are at least thirty miles in the rear, and, were it
+not for Mounts Upstart and Eliot, both of which are very visible, and
+serve as an excellent guide, this part of the coast would be very
+dangerous to approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot
+be seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship passing
+this projection should not come into shoaler water than eleven fathoms;
+and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount Upstart, should be
+steered sufficiently to the northward to provide against the current
+which sets into the bay on the western side of the mount. On approaching
+the cape, if the soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the
+vessel should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel
+with or to the southward of the cape.
+
+CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 146
+degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, rises abruptly from a
+projection of low land, separating Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity
+that extends under the base of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded
+hill and a peak, the latter being at the south extremity of its summit.
+Mount Eliot may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues,
+if not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land is
+low, and is probably much intersected by water.
+
+A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four miles to the
+eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, with the point
+bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship is safe: there is a
+breaker near the extremity of the reef, at about three miles from the
+point; to avoid which, keep the south end of Magnetical Island well open
+of the north extremity of the cape.
+
+The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 minutes 10
+seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds.
+
+CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, five, and six
+fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile from the shore on the
+western side of the cape, and is left dry at half ebb; it fronts a sandy
+beach that commences at a mile and a half to the south of the cape, and
+extends to the southward for nearly two miles; over this beach, two or
+three streams of fresh water communicate with the sea; they take their
+rise from the hills, and probably are seldom dry.
+
+The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the beach, a
+little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for fuel is plentiful,
+and grows close to the beach, and may be embarked with facility; the best
+place is at the north end of the sandy beach, since the boat can be
+brought nearer to the shore to protect the wooding party.
+
+HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it has several
+islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, the summit of which is
+in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35
+minutes 15 seconds: this group consists of nineteen islands, one only of
+which is of large size, being eight miles long and three wide; it
+probably affords all the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a
+good supply of wood and water.
+
+In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, and six
+miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that shows at low
+water: it appeared to be about two miles long; between it and Number 2 is
+a wide channel with nine fathoms. The Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in
+1815, struck upon a reef in 18 degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from
+the shore; of which we saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its
+position, but, at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been
+covered by the tide.
+
+In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, on which
+the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was not correctly
+ascertained, as the accident happened in the night.
+
+POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 146
+degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to the eastward, under
+Mount Hinchinbrook.
+
+CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land that
+stretches to the northward from the base of Mount Hinchinbrook, which is
+so high as to be visible for eighteen leagues: the mount is topped with a
+craggy summit, seven miles in length from north to south.
+
+There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off the cape,
+having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in latitude 18 degrees
+13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds.
+The peak at the north end of Mount Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees
+21 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 15.
+
+BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they consist of
+three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the whole are
+surrounded by a coral reef.
+
+From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a North-West
+direction for five miles to a point, which is terminated by a hill.
+Between this and Goold Island there appears to be a navigable strait
+leading into Rockingham Bay.
+
+GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill covered with
+wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 146
+degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the south-west point of the
+island is a long strip of low land, with a sandy beach; at the eastern
+end of which there is a run of water; and fuel may be cut close to the
+shore. High water takes place at full and change at three quarters past
+ten.
+
+ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom there was
+an appearance of an opening that may probably communicate with an inlet
+on the south side of Point Hillock, and insulate the land of Mount
+Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage in the bay in four and five fathoms
+mud, near Goold Island.
+
+The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and visit the ship.
+
+FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with a stunted
+vegetation.
+
+DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; the
+south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 146
+degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation observed in the offing to the
+North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes East.
+
+BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in a
+straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double Point. Three
+miles to the south of the southernmost island, but nearer to the shore,
+is a reef of rocks which dry at low water.
+
+From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 minutes 50
+seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a succession of sandy
+bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes, in
+the centre of a sandy bay, is a small opening like a rivulet; and, on the
+south side of Point Cooper is another; but neither appeared to be
+navigable for boats. Abreast of Frankland's Islands, and near the south
+end of a sandy bay of six miles in extent, there is another opening like
+a river, that, from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and
+of a verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high mountains
+to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise to a considerable
+stream; and it appears very probable that this may be one of the outlets,
+but the most considerable is, perhaps, that which falls into Trinity Bay
+round Cape Grafton.
+
+FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which is
+detached and of higher character than the others, which are very low, and
+connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen five or six leagues
+off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds.
+
+The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards the north has
+several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton may be readily known,
+when seen from the southward, by appearing like three lofty islands; the
+outermost is Fitzroy Island, but the others are hills upon the main. The
+easternmost of the latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two
+small peaks, like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is
+joined to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter
+from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen at a
+distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands.
+
+There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy
+Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage would be on the
+south side of the cape. The former is exposed to all winds between
+North-West and North-East. In the former case the anchor may be dropped
+in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a mile from the beach of the
+island. The north extremity of Cape Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51
+minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the
+south-east extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds,
+longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked summit. It
+affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off a coral beach; the
+south-west end of which is in latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds,
+and longitude 145 degrees 56 minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the
+eastward of Fitzroy Island is a small bare sandy island; and, at about
+seven miles North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of
+extensive shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.
+
+On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of which is an
+island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage may be had with the
+cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON and SNAPPER ISLAND, the
+centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, and
+longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores
+of which were not very distinctly seen. At the south side, and about
+seven miles within the cape there is an opening that appeared to be
+extensive, and the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between
+high ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range.
+
+In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 degrees 34
+minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; which, being very
+low, are dangerous to pass in the night.
+
+The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw none beyond
+Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart are from Lieutenant
+Jeffrey's account.*
+
+(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the northward of Green Island
+from the Tamar's masthead. Roe manuscript.)
+
+SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern limit of
+Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any water.*
+
+(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East from Snapper Island
+is the north-west end of a shoal, extending to the South 41 degrees East
+for sixteen or seventeen miles; the Tamar anchored under it. Roe
+manuscript.)
+
+The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater distance than
+twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of the barrier reefs
+approach the coast, and there is reason to believe that, in latitude 16
+degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40
+seconds, they are not more than twenty miles from it. The cape has a
+hillock at its extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that
+renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper Island. The
+shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we had sixteen fathoms.
+
+Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in Weary Bay:
+it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet water over it; the
+anchorage off it is too much exposed to be safe. The river runs up for
+four or five miles, having soundings within it from three to four
+fathoms, its entrance is in 15 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and forms a few
+inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high land, particularly
+abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands open of each other in a North
+39 degrees East direction, and appear to be connected by a shoal; it is
+however very likely that a narrow passage may exist between them, but
+certainly not safe to sail through.
+
+Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and great attention
+must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, with a careful look out
+from the masthead, and a quick leadsman in the chains, no danger need be
+apprehended.
+
+Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island there is a
+passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is about half a mile in
+diameter, with a few rocks above water; its centre is in 15 degrees 43
+minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the shore, and three miles North 55
+degrees West from the south west Hope.
+
+b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at its north
+end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds: it is
+divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly a mile wide, and
+fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end of b, on the western edge
+of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes
+55 seconds.
+
+ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West direction; the
+north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears due from the North-east
+Hope.
+
+c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its latitude is 15
+degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the shore.
+
+d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, in latitude
+15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and the shore the
+passage is from three to four miles wide, and in mid-channel the depth is
+seven and eight fathoms.
+
+On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a small
+opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it was this bay
+that Captain Cook first examined in search of a place to repair his ship.
+
+On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the entrance of
+Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of irregular depth. A spit of
+sand was passed over with only two and a half fathoms on it when the
+summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 degrees West (magnetic) and the outer
+extreme of Point Monkhouse South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off
+shore the shoal soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it
+bore South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and three
+and a half fathoms.
+
+ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 degrees 27
+minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds,*
+forms a very good port for small vessels; and, in a case of distress,
+might be useful for large ships, as it proved to our celebrated navigator
+Captain Cook, who, it is well known, repaired his ship there after having
+laid twenty-three hours upon a coral reef.
+
+(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at Endeavour River was found
+by lunar distances, taken during my visits to that place in 1819 and
+1820, as follows:
+
+Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the artificial
+horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: 15 degrees 27
+minutes 4 seconds.
+
+Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first quarter of
+the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, with the sextant:
+144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds.
+
+Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first quarter of the
+moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, with the sextant: 145
+degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds.
+
+Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds.)
+
+The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, covered with
+trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The north side of the
+entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and a quarter in length: at
+its north end a range of hills rises abruptly, and extends for six or
+seven miles, when it again suddenly terminates, and is separated from the
+rocky projection of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand.
+
+The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on which, at high
+water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low water, not more than ten
+feet: the channel over the bar is close to the south side, for the
+sandbank extends from the low sandy north shore to within one hundred and
+forty yards of the south shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides)
+is dry.
+
+In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in a line
+with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) you will be in
+three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity of the low north sandy
+point is opened of the trend round Point c, when you may haul a little
+more in, and when point d (which is a point where the mangroves commence)
+bears South 33 degrees West (magnetic) steer directly for it; this will
+carry you over the deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from
+point c in a North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is
+to keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will be
+too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in a little to
+the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass within ten yards of
+point d; and the best anchorage is just within it; the vessel may be
+secured head and stern to trees on the beach, with bow and stern anchors
+to steady her. No vessel of a greater draught than twelve feet should
+enter the harbour; and this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within
+her own length of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the
+mangrove point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into
+the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the south: and
+if this should fail, there is a good stream at the north end of the long
+north sandy beach. The latter, although very high coloured, is of
+wholesome quality; but in bad weather is inconvenient to be procured on
+account of the surf. Water for common purposes of cooking may be had on a
+sandy beach a little without the entrance, but it is of a mineral
+quality, and of brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at
+eight o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation of
+the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East.
+
+CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, longitude 145
+degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a steep slope to the
+sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it and Cape Flattery is a bay
+backed by low land, about five miles deep; but it is exposed to the wind,
+unless there is anchorage under the north-west end of Cape Bedford.
+
+(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile round Cape Bedford. Roe
+manuscript.)
+
+CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its extremity is
+high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The summit of the cape is
+in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees
+16 minutes 10 seconds.*
+
+(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the eastward of Point
+Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, about two miles apart
+from each other, situated in what was considered to be the fair channel.
+Roe manuscript.)
+
+Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West direction, is
+POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the extremity of a low sandy
+projection, whence the land trends West by North 1/2 North for twelve
+leagues to Cape Bowen.
+
+e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end is twelve
+miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour River, in latitude
+15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes 30
+seconds.
+
+TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high water,
+excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the boat, at its north
+end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes
+50 seconds: its interior is occupied, like most others, by a shoal
+lagoon; it is entirely of coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was
+here that Captain Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour
+River, from the entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is
+distant eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a
+mile wide.
+
+THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a group of
+low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a reef, that is
+not quite two miles in diameter.
+
+Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded island,
+about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four miles to the
+southward of it is a rocky islet.
+
+REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three Isles; it
+appeared to be about three miles long: its western extreme is in latitude
+15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes.
+
+TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: the largest
+islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, and longitude 145
+degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds.
+
+REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a half long:
+its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds, longitude
+145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
+
+REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer edge: it
+is more than four miles long, and separated from the north end of g by a
+channel a mile wide.
+
+REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the northernmost are two
+rocky islands, and to the southward, on a detached shoal, there is a bare
+sandy islet that is perhaps occasionally covered by the tide: its
+south-westernmost extremity and the summit of Lizard Island are in the
+line of bearing of North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14
+degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon it: its
+sub-marine extent was not ascertained.
+
+REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near its western
+side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of Eagle
+Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve fathoms marked
+between two shoals which must mean the above.
+
+EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end of a
+considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by Captain Cook
+to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through which he passed out
+to sea; they are high and of conical shape, and might be seen more than
+five or six leagues off was it not for the hazy weather that always
+exists in the neighbourhood of the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude
+14 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25
+seconds: the southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude
+145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
+
+LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its peaked
+summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side is an extensive reef
+encompassing three islets, of which two are high and rocky: the best
+anchorage is on its western side under the summit; with the high
+northernmost of the Direction Islands in sight over the low land, bearing
+about South-East by compass: the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy
+bottom. The variation here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East.
+
+TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the islets are
+encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and consist of six islands,
+all low and bushy. These islands are not laid down with sufficient
+accuracy as to their relative positions.
+
+n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard Island; no
+reef was seen to project from it; it is in the meridian of the
+observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes.
+
+o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 degrees West
+from the north end of n.
+
+p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by a channel
+of a mile wide.
+
+q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently connected with a
+shoal extending from Point Lookout along the shore to the
+West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 degrees West from
+Point Lookout.
+
+COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a quarter to half a
+mile in extent; they are from four to six miles North-East from Point
+Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely the several dry parts of the
+shoal that extends from Point Lookout to Noble Island; between them and
+the latter island, are two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable
+that they may be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal
+between the islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained.
+
+At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, the hills
+again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project into the sea, and
+separate two bays, in each of which there is possibly a rivulet; that to
+the eastward of the cape trends in and forms a deep bight. On the western
+side of the hills of Cape Bowen there is a track of low land, separating
+them from another rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is
+in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 minutes.
+
+HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which Number 1,
+remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in latitude 14 degrees
+32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds;
+it is nearly three miles long; the rest are all less than half a mile in
+extent, excepting the westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a
+half in diameter.
+
+The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight fathoms: the
+north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the opposite side of the
+strait is bold to; the anchorage is tolerably good. The Mermaid drove,
+but it was not considered to be caused by the nature of the bottom, which
+is of soft sand, and free from rocks.
+
+The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and shoal: between
+1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel of about a mile wide:
+the north-east end of 1 has a reef which extends off it for half a mile.
+
+(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space to the northward
+and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe manuscript.)
+
+All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral reef of
+small extent.
+
+4 has a small islet off its west end.
+
+5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from them. 7 is
+probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a mile on its
+western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality of the low islands
+hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in latitude 14 degrees 28
+minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 minutes. The position of Number 10
+was not correctly ascertained.
+
+The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, and
+longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at its
+north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, when first
+seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock with a double
+rounded top.
+
+The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, lying six
+miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry for a considerable
+extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; but there is a dry sandy
+key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, North 32 degrees East, six miles:
+some rocks showed themselves above the water off its south end.
+
+v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to extend for
+three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; there was, however, a
+space of three miles between them, where a channel may possibly exist.
+The channels between t and u, and between v and w, appeared to be clear
+and deep.
+
+The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier reefs, for the
+sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer edge; there were, however,
+considerable spaces where no breakers appeared, some of which, being
+three or four miles wide, may possibly be as many outlets to sea.
+
+NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is about three
+miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in crossing it we had
+not more water than four fathoms, and within our course it appeared to be
+very shoal: there is doubtless a channel leading to the opening; but, to
+the name of harbour or port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was
+named Port Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point
+Barrow are two rocky islands.
+
+(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from half to one mile nearer
+the shore, than they are laid down; and one mile and three quarters North
+55 degrees East from the point are two small patches of coral, under
+water; they bear North-East and South-West from each other and are
+probably one tenth of a mile apart. Roe manuscript.)
+
+Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and rocky, but
+appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places extends for a mile
+and a half from the shore; in this interval there are two or three sandy
+beaches, but I doubt the practicability of landing upon them in a boat.
+The summit and sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape
+Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being covered
+with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume 1.)
+
+CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, terminates this
+remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds, and
+longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 seconds: the coast trends round it to
+the South-South-West and South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is
+nine miles and a half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being
+formed by Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off
+Cape Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some rounded
+stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up above the sea:
+there is also one of these heaps at the extremity of the reef, outside,
+and within a quarter of a mile of which we had fourteen fathoms water:
+there are two other similar heaps within the outer pile, and between them
+there are possibly clear passages, but they should not be attempted
+without great caution. It was remarked that the breeze always freshened
+on passing round this cape.
+
+PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is the largest,
+are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 144 degrees 26
+minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded by a reef, lying two miles and a
+half from the cape; between them and the reef that extends from the cape,
+there is a safe and deep passage of more than a mile wide.
+
+The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom are two
+openings, with some projecting land between them, at the extremity of
+which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless rivulets of
+considerable size, and take their rise from the high land at the back of
+Cape Bowen.
+
+FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are high and
+rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are three miles long.
+The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 degrees 11 minutes 5
+seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 minutes 5 seconds, is visible from
+a distance of twelve or thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the
+islands may be seen generally at seven or eight leagues.
+
+On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay fronted by
+a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing winds to be safe.
+It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) was wrecked in 1818.
+
+CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 10
+minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the island; it may be
+passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best anchorage is under the
+flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms
+mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 minutes East. It is high water at full
+and change at a quarter past nine.
+
+In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in diameter.
+
+CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end of reef b,
+in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 11
+minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare black rock, with no apparent
+vegetation, is a conspicuous object: there is another rock on its
+north-east end. (See above.) The reef is of circular shape, and three
+miles in diameter.
+
+The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite struck upon
+it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The following marks for it
+were obligingly communicated to me by Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop
+Satellite, who sent a boat to examine it upon her second voyage the
+following year:
+
+"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in
+mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, there is a
+small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, not more than a
+cable's length in extent, the least water being one fathom. The Satellite
+grounded on them in two fathoms, in June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine
+this shoal in making the same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be
+under the following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders,
+South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part of
+Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's Islands,
+North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. It is a dangerous
+shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be easily avoided by steering
+near the low wooded island, to the north-east of the cape, or by keeping
+the shore of Flinders' Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The
+variation is 5 degrees 40 minutes East."*
+
+(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way between, the
+flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' Group, and the centre
+of the low wooded island, and is nearly joined to some shoal-water that
+extends for two miles from the latter island. Roe manuscript.)
+
+PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, twenty-two
+miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, and at the bottom
+in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a mangrove opening.
+
+JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 seconds and
+longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a remarkable flat-topped
+hill at the bottom of the bay, rising abruptly from the surrounding low
+land: it is about five miles from the coast; its summit, by the angle it
+subtended, is about a mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high
+land was seen at the bottom of the bay.
+
+On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and forms a bank
+of about ten miles in extent, but this was not visible for more than
+three or four leagues. To the north of this no part of the interior can
+be seen until in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes, when the south end of a
+ridge of hills commences at about seven miles behind the beach, which it
+gradually approaches until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes,
+and is terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low
+sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth.
+
+c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and South-West
+by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears North 75 degrees
+West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape Flinders.
+
+d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on each; they
+are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a mile in diameter:
+d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west from Cape Flinders, from
+which it is distant twelve miles and a half.
+
+g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained whether they are
+connected to each other or not: they may also be joined to c, and indeed
+this supposition is very likely to be correct, for we found the water
+quite smooth, and little or no set of tide on passing them. On the
+southwest extremity of g, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds,
+longitude 143 degrees 50 minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is
+also upon h, but on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry
+for four or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h
+is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 minutes.
+
+i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has
+a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is two miles North-North-West
+from the south-west end of h.
+
+k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the east of
+Pelican Island.
+
+PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more than a mile
+and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for having two clumps
+of trees, which at a distance give it the appearance of being two small
+islets: it is low, and, like the other islands of its character, may be
+seen at ten miles from the deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45
+seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.)
+
+l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East direction:
+it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more than one-third of
+a mile wide: its greatest width is not more than a mile and a half: its
+south-west end is five miles and three-quarters north from Pelican
+Island.
+
+m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in North East
+by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is separated by a
+channel of from one to two miles wide. At its south-west end, where there
+is an extensive dry sandy key, and some dry rocks, it is two miles wide:
+but towards its northern end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter
+of a mile. The south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North
+44 degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of
+Claremont Isles.
+
+n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected with m. At
+its westernmost end, about four miles North by East 1/2 East from the
+west end of m., is a dry sand of small extent.
+
+It was considered probable that there was a safe passage between the
+reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the termination of the latter,
+upon which the sea was breaking, which afforded a proof of its not being
+connected with the former, which also the dark colour of the water
+sufficiently indicated.
+
+The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter reef.
+(Volume 1.)
+
+CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 to 5; they
+are of coral formation, and are covered with small brushwood; they are
+from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 and 5, which are separated by
+a channel only a mile and a half wide: off the east and south-east end of
+5, a coral reef extends for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two
+dry rocks on its north-east end.
+
+COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE.
+COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
+COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
+
+Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30.
+
+Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30.
+
+Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20.
+
+Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20.
+
+Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a half, and
+at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be connected to it; o
+has a dry sand near its western extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 34
+minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds.
+
+Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 38
+minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, with a reef
+extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north and south ends.
+
+A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West from islet
+6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape Sidmouth; this reef
+is not more than a quarter of a mile in extent, and has a rock in its
+centre, that is uncovered at half tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and
+therefore of dangerous approach.
+
+Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies about two
+miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from Round Hill summit.
+
+q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until close to it;
+it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the extremity of Cape
+Sidmouth.
+
+CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land behind it;
+and at about nine miles in the interior, to the West-North-West, there is
+a rounded summit: at the extremity of the cape there are two remarkable
+lumps on the land, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky
+shoals, and ought not to be approached within four miles.
+
+r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but from the
+nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is perhaps rocky
+also, and may be connected with them. It lies four miles and a quarter
+North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and West 1/2 North from islet
+7.
+
+6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north ends of
+reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef off the islet 6
+1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that off 7 is two miles and a
+half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds,
+longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21
+minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds.
+
+8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a quarter in
+diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed opposite these
+islands, but their existence was not ascertained. Both the islets are
+surrounded by coral reefs, of small extent.
+
+NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes 8 seconds,
+and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a low woody island,
+two miles long, but not more than half a mile wide; it is surrounded by a
+coral reef, that does not extend more than a quarter of a mile from its
+northern end. On the south side, and within it, the space seemed to be
+much occupied by reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account
+of the thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a
+covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end of the
+island, distant four miles.*
+
+(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of Night Island; one
+bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from its north point; we saw
+much shoal water to seaward. Roe manuscript.)
+
+u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we passed, lies six
+miles North 18 degrees West from the north end of Night Island; there is
+also a small rock detached from it, which is not visible until close to
+it.
+
+v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; its
+centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude.
+
+SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky shoal
+extending for a mile to the South-East; the south-westernmost is in 12
+degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15
+seconds longitude.
+
+10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds,
+on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky islet, lying about a
+mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; off its east end is a smaller
+rock.
+
+The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather high, and
+the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles North-West from the
+former cape is an opening in the hills; the high land then continues to
+the northward to Cape Direction, which has a peak near its extremity,
+close off which are two small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half
+off is thirteen fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55
+seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.*
+
+(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles round the north side
+of Cape Direction. Roe manuscript.)
+
+x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it appeared
+to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the extremity of the
+cape.
+
+y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in extent; they
+are separated from each other by a channel a mile wide; y is four miles
+and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape Direction.
+
+a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a quarter in
+length; the latter extends for two miles in an east direction, and is a
+mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, from a peaked hill on the
+shore, and is five miles to the south of Cape Weymouth.
+
+LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a considerable opening
+at its south-west end, where the land was very low; the hilly country to
+the south of Cape Direction also ceases, and there is a considerable
+space of low land between them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range.
+
+CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high summit; its
+extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude
+143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is
+high, and of conical shape; about a mile East-South-East from it is a
+small rocky islet. The coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms
+several sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the
+shores of the bay were not well examined.*
+
+(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles North-West from Cape
+Weymouth. Roe manuscript.)
+
+FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of high land, in
+latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes 15
+seconds: it has a reef off it according to Lieutenant Jeffrey's account,
+but its situation does not appear to have been correctly ascertained: we
+did not see it.
+
+BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south end of
+TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the coast to the
+northward being very low and sandy; with the exception of CAPE GRENVILLE,
+which is the rocky projection that forms the north extremity of Temple
+Bay. A little to the south of the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh.
+The latitude of Cape Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30
+seconds, its longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes.
+
+c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, in latitude
+12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 25 minutes 15
+seconds; it is about two miles long.
+
+d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it is
+covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it.
+
+e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing in latitude
+12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 degrees 24 minutes; and in
+longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it is entirely covered, except a few
+dry rocks at its north-west end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef
+is perhaps three or four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not
+clearly distinguished.
+
+f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN ISLAND, which
+is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the neighbourhood of this reef
+that the merchant ship, Morning Star, was lost. Quoin Island is in
+latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50
+seconds.
+
+g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; having a
+dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about three miles from its
+north end.
+
+FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed with
+vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. The summit of
+Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and
+longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is about one
+mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The south end of h
+bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 South seven miles.
+
+i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow channel
+between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a dry sandy key
+at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds.
+
+PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular reefs, with a
+passage separating them of a quarter of a mile wide; the reefs have each
+two islets upon them, and a dry rocky key round their western edge: the
+centre of the narrowest part of the channel between them is twelve and a
+half fathoms deep, but abreast the south end of the south-easternmost
+shoal there is ten and a half fathoms.
+
+l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with a dry rock
+at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 seconds, and
+longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes.
+
+YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a mile in
+extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 143
+degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.)
+
+m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry rock at
+its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three miles from the
+summit of Haggerston's Island.
+
+n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles long, and from
+one to four broad; it is separated from o by a narrow tortuous channel,
+but not safe to pass through: both n and o are covered. There is a safe
+passage between these reefs and Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half
+wide; but there is a small reef detached from the north-west end of n,
+which should be avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of
+water over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island,
+from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to the
+westward, of which we saw no signs.
+
+p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it was seen
+from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also another reef, seven
+miles South by East from it: the positions of these reefs are doubtful.
+
+HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in latitude 12
+degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 12 minutes; it is
+situated at the South-South-West extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two
+miles in length; its northern side is furnished with some trees and a
+sandy beach. At the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and
+rocks. It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a
+channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in passing
+through it, the tide or current sets to the North-North-West, round the
+reef off Haggerston's Island. (See volume 1.)
+
+SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two
+south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon it,
+which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon the
+extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a hillock, or
+clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in latitude 11 degrees 57
+minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. The outer part
+of this group is bold to, and the islands may be approached, but the
+space within them appeared to be rocky: there is a passage between the
+group and Cape Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing
+through it, found overfalls with eighteen fathoms.
+
+Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY ISLAND, elevated
+and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's Island, with good anchorage
+under its lee.
+
+q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 degrees 55
+minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of Sir Everard Home's
+Group.
+
+SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be seen five or
+six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes 20
+seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon it.
+
+COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues off.*
+
+(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by West 1/2 West, two
+miles and a half from the southernmost Cockburn Island, and there are
+many shoals of great extent to the northward of the group. Roe
+manuscript.)
+
+t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and appeared to be
+detached from each other.
+
+BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of three low
+bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at the outer verge of
+the reef, and may be passed within a quarter of a mile; the north-east
+island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142
+degrees 58 minutes 45 seconds.
+
+McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which two are very
+small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than three miles long, and
+are separated from the Bird Isles by a channel three miles and a half
+wide.
+
+HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with bushes, the
+easternmost is near the extremity of the reef encircling the whole, and
+is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142
+degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.*
+
+(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and three-quarters, and
+another at two miles and a half North-North-West from North Hannibal
+Island.)
+
+v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a mile and a
+quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its north-west edge,
+and a rocky key at its south-west end; the channel between it and
+Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half wide: w is nearly four miles
+long, and is entirely covered; the course between them is west, but, by
+hauling close round the east end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course
+will carry a vessel a quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w;
+the north-west extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees
+West from Islet 1.
+
+The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, of about a
+mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered with low trees. Islet
+1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 seconds. Number 3 is a sandy
+islet crowned with bushes at the north-west end of a coral reef of about
+a mile and a half in length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared
+to be a channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4,
+5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached reefs,
+with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude 11 degrees 22
+minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is separated from
+CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The latter is a small
+woody island, situated at the north-west end of a coral reef, more than
+two miles long and one broad; the north-west point of the reef runs off
+with a sharp point for about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is
+good anchorage under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is
+rather heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the
+latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and its
+longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 and above.)
+
+(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the southward of islet
+7. Roe manuscript.)
+
+8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the eastward of
+Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of 8.
+
+11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly ascertained.
+
+ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under Pudding-pan Hill (of
+Bligh) the shape of which, being flat-topped, is very remarkable: the
+hill is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142
+degrees 43 minutes 35 seconds.
+
+The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and sandy, with
+but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed to the trade wind,
+which often blows with great strength, from South-East and South-East by
+East.
+
+ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in the land of
+one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three miles, when it turns to
+the north, and is concealed from the view; the land on the north side of
+the entrance is probably an island, for an opening was observed in
+Newcastle Bay, trending to the south, which may communicate with the
+river. The entrance is defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly
+lost. (Volume 1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south
+head, which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and present
+an inviting aspect.
+
+NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores are low,
+and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there is a
+considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and a half from
+Turtle Island.
+
+Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky islet on
+the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 degrees 54 minutes,
+and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 seconds; it is separated by a
+channel three miles wide from reef x, which has a dry sand at its north
+end, in latitude 10 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42
+minutes, it has also some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part
+of its south end.
+
+Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of which are
+covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three miles and a quarter;
+neither of them appeared to be a mile in width; the north-west end of z,
+when in a line with Mount Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West.
+
+Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the south-east trend of
+the land of Cape York, is a group of high rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES;
+and immediately off the point is a reef, which extends for about a mile;
+half a mile without its edge, we had ten fathoms.
+
+The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance.
+
+THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two high rocks
+upon a reef.
+
+ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of large size; the
+easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends for less than a quarter
+of a mile from it; the peak is in latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45
+seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds.
+
+YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the principal
+island, which is not more than two miles long, has a very conspicuous
+flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in latitude 10 degrees 38
+minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off
+the south-east end of this island are two rocky islets, the southernmost
+of which is more than a mile distant; the northern group of the York
+Isles are laid down from Captain Flinders.
+
+(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount Adolphus, but it
+appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.)
+
+CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a conical hill
+half a mile within its extremity, the situation of which is in 10 degrees
+42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East
+of Greenwich. There is also an island close to the point with a conical
+hill upon it, which has perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from
+which it is separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of
+the summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees
+28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable shoal extends to
+the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill on the extremity of a
+point. In the centre of this shoal are some dry rocks.
+
+At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is the rocky
+islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 142
+degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small size, and surrounded by
+deep water; and, being easily seen from the strait between Cape York and
+the York Isles, serves to direct the course.
+
+POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and 7 only are
+of large size, and neither of these are two miles long; they are also
+higher than the others. Number 1 is a small conical hill; 2 is hummocky;
+3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes with a hollow in its centre, like
+the seat of a saddle. The passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4
+is the best; there is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this,
+it must be recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the
+northern side.
+
+ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' Islands: a
+shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes 45
+seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 seconds) to the westward, and
+is probably connected with a strip of sand that stretches from Wallis'
+Isles to Shoal Cape. We crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when
+the least depth was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more
+than three fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West.
+
+PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and openings,
+that are very little known; there was an appearance of a good port, a
+little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes
+35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes) which may probably
+communicate with Wolf's Bay; the strait to the south of Wednesday Island
+also offers a good port in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and
+without them is the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it.
+
+WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 minutes 10
+seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be approached close,
+but a considerable shoal stretches off its western side, the greater part
+of which is dry.
+
+Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West 3/4 South,
+and five miles and three-quarters from the north end of Wednesday Island.
+Captain Flinders passed through the strait separating Wednesday Island
+from Hammond's Islands, and had four, five, and six fathoms.
+
+Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter is the
+reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, and one mile
+and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is generally covered; the
+latter bears South 75 degrees West three miles and a quarter from the
+rock off Hammond's Island, and about North 45 degrees West two and a
+quarter miles from the opening between Good and Hammond's Island; the
+marks for avoiding it are given in the sailing directions.
+
+(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached patches, that extend
+farther off than is at first observed. There is also a narrow strip of
+rocks extending for a short distance off the north-east end of the reef
+off Hammond's Island. Roe manuscript.)
+
+Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the NORTH-WEST
+REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are dry; it is ten or
+eleven miles long; the channel between it and the islands is from one
+mile and three-quarters to two miles and a quarter wide.
+
+BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 141
+degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky islet of scarcely a third
+of a mile in diameter; its south-west end has a shoal projecting from it
+for half a mile, but its other sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees
+East direction from it, at the distance of two miles and three-quarters,
+is a sandbank with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine
+and Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named
+LARPENT'S BANK.*
+
+(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of five miles in length,
+extending in an east and west direction, a few feet only below the
+surface of the water. Roe manuscript.)
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 3.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN
+WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE STRAIT.
+
+In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the islands of Timor
+Laut and Arroo from the north coast of Australia, the winds are
+periodical, and are called the east and west monsoons, for such is their
+direction in the mid-sea. Near the Coast of New Holland the regularity of
+these winds is partly suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere;
+this produces land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from
+the quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The usual
+course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, May, and June,
+is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind springs up at daylight
+from South or South-South-East; it then usually freshens, but, as the sun
+gets higher, and the land becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon
+the sea-wind rushes in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from
+East; at sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts
+the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not keep at a
+moderate distance from the land, she is subject to delay; she would not,
+however, probably have so fresh a breeze in the day time. Later in the
+season of the easterly monsoon, in August, September, and October, calms
+are frequent, and the heat is sultry and oppressive; this weather
+sometimes lasts for a fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly
+monsoon commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather,
+but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady winds in
+the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above described, near
+the coast. It ceases about the latter end of November or early part of
+December; the westerly monsoon may then be expected to blow strong, and
+perhaps with regularity.
+
+This is the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain
+Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of the Gulf
+of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the western side of
+the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then experienced might be
+occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the land. In January and
+February the monsoon is at its strength, but declines towards the end of
+the latter month, and in March becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and
+unsettled weather; the wind is then generally from the South-West, but
+not at all regular.
+
+The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a knot and a
+half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it is not stronger,
+and its course in the easterly monsoon, when only we had any experience
+of it, was West: the strength is probably increased or diminished by the
+state of the wind.
+
+The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from the eastward,
+but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so much as a mile and a half
+per hour. High water takes place at full and change at Liverpool River,
+and Goulburn Island at six o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator
+Rivers in Van Diemen's Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end
+of Apsley Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the
+eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local circumstances;
+the rise is not more than eleven feet at the springs.
+
+(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found high-water take
+place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; and in King's Cove at 5
+hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it rose fourteen feet.)
+
+The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely affected by the
+ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is between 3 and 4 degrees
+East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2
+degrees East, and off Cape Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.
+
+The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was 27 degrees
+32 1/2 minutes.
+
+When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by Captain
+Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing the examination
+of the north coast, that it was found necessary to return to Port
+Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that separates Point Dale from
+Wessel's Islands, which is called in my chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no
+part of the coast to the westward of that point, nor did he even see Cape
+Wessel, the extremity of the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate
+in latitude 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46
+minutes 30 seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of
+smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few on the
+eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is Cunningham's Island, of
+Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes,
+longitude 135 degrees 31 minutes.
+
+POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the east extremity
+of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 135
+degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky islands of small size, lying
+off, encompassed by a reef, which extends for eight miles
+North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. In Brown's Strait the tide sets
+at the rate of three and a half and four miles per hour; the flood runs
+to the southward through the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the
+coast extends for about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay;
+in which space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably
+small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait
+insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.
+
+CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; it is
+fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral formation, crowned
+with small trees and bushes: the centre of the northernmost islet is in
+latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10
+minutes 5 seconds. To the eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of
+the bay, the coast is very much indented, and probably contains several
+openings or rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The
+beach is generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to
+the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast hills,
+which are very low and level.
+
+From the extremity of CAPE STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56
+minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West
+by North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile within
+the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half a mile to the
+eastward. Every other part of the reef is covered.
+
+To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven leagues in
+extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western end there is a
+small break in the beach, but it did not appear to be of any consequence.
+
+The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of LIVERPOOL RIVER,
+whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round Islet; which, as well as
+Entrance Island, is connected to the above point by a shoal. Haul-round
+Islet is in latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14
+minutes; Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and
+longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+The entrance is from one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef
+extends for half a mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the
+water is deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter
+fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen fathoms: at
+seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth decreases to four fathoms,
+and then gradually shoals to three; after which it varies in the channel
+of the river to between nine and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses
+the river at the low mangrove island, over which there is not more than
+three feet at low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at
+the springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the river.
+
+The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty miles, but
+as our examination was unassisted by bearings or observations, it is laid
+down from an eye sketch.
+
+POINT BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and
+longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to the
+westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is Junction Bay,
+which was not examined.
+
+For the next thirty miles the coast is very much indented, and has some
+deep bays on either side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of
+Point Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is
+probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, being
+low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without a hill or
+rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous appearance. At
+this place, however, a range of rocky hills, WELLINGTON RANGE, commences,
+of about twenty miles in extent: five miles behind it is the Tor
+(latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20
+seconds) a solitary pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by
+South, from the latter is a peak-topped hill.
+
+The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on which there
+are four remarkable ridges, of which the two westernmost are the most
+remarkable.
+
+GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about twenty miles in
+circumference; they are separated from each other by a rocky strait three
+miles wide, which in most parts is deep enough for a ship of any size to
+pass through; the latitude of the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32
+minutes. Macquarie Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and
+is nearly two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen
+fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the northern side
+of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.
+
+SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms at a mile
+from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of a mile off the
+beach in three fathoms muddy bottom.
+
+At the north end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point
+by a channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one of
+our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 minutes 24
+seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds. The bay affords
+a convenient place for wooding and watering; the latter may be had during
+the early months of the dry season (as late as August) from a drain at
+the base of the Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are
+also some holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later
+period. The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of
+collecting it.
+
+MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording good
+anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms mud, at a mile
+from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the eastward, and it is high
+water at full and change in the strait at six o'clock; the rise of the
+tide is not more than five or six feet. The north-east point of North
+Goulburn Island is in latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133
+degrees 26 minutes.
+
+From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and north-westward
+to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. POINT BROGDEN, in
+latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only projection in this space, is
+remarkable for being higher than usual, and for having a range of cliffs
+to the southward of the point; with a solitary tree near its extremity,
+hence the land is rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy
+projection in latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore
+continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a conspicuous
+tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within a short distance of
+the sea, as is generally the case with the shores of this coast. CAPE
+COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees
+53 minutes 5 seconds.
+
+MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, it is
+twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains several
+islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New Year's Island, the
+latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude 133
+degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the outermost; the others are named
+Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling,
+and have wide and apparently deep channels between them. Between New
+Year's and McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and
+eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the north-west end
+of the latter island for nearly three miles, and the ground is rocky and
+shoal for some distance off the north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's
+Island is higher than the others, which are merely small woody islets,
+the centre is in 11 degrees 10 minutes.
+
+At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay is MALAY BAY which is four miles
+wide and six deep; it affords good anchorage in four and five fathoms in
+the centre: as it offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any
+part of it. Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is
+more than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a reef
+off its north point, and another off its south-east point, each about a
+mile in extent.
+
+COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in latitude 11
+degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 minutes; four miles and
+a quarter West-North-West from it is a covered sandbank having nine feet
+water near its edge; it was not quite certain whether it was joined to
+the land or not, from which it is distant two miles and a half.
+
+On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles wide
+separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or eleven miles in
+length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet were observed to pass
+through it.
+
+CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north to south,
+and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is in 10 degrees 58
+minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 minutes 10 seconds
+longitude; about three-quarters of a mile within it there is a remarkable
+rocky knob: its south extreme is in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.
+
+PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in the easterly
+monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and nearly three deep. The
+shore is rocky for a mile off, and the south point has a rocky shoal
+projecting to the West-North-West for a mile and a quarter.
+
+DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a navigable strait
+two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east end we had six fathoms,
+but in mid-channel the depth was as much as eleven fathoms. A
+considerable reef projects off the east end for more than a mile. The
+island is about two miles and three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded;
+its north point is in latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven miles deep,
+and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the depth is not more than
+three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is however quite safe.
+
+The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef extending from
+it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its bottom of very little
+importance. At the north-east end of the bay, separated from the point by
+a channel a mile wide, and more than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy
+island, with a reef extending for a mile off its north end.
+
+PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and Point Smith,
+are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, thirteen miles and a quarter
+deep, and from five to three wide; independent of its Inner Harbour,
+which, with a navigable entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and
+four wide. The port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or
+dangers in it.
+
+On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, and also a
+reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that forms the east head of
+Knocker's Bay. The western side of the entrance to Inner Harbour, is also
+rocky and shoal for two-thirds across, but near the opposite point* the
+depth is thirteen fathoms.
+
+(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, see above.)
+
+On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a quarter of a
+mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some of which are dry;
+this danger, when in a line with a remarkable cliff two miles and a
+quarter to the south of Table Point, bears East-South-East 1/2 East;
+close without them the depth is five fathoms.
+
+The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in for two
+miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, surrounded by a
+rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The anchorage between the
+entrance and Middle Head is in five and six fathoms mud, and in the
+centre of the western basin the depth is five fathoms mud. The shores are
+higher than usual, and are varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of
+white and others of a red colour. The western side of the port was not
+visited, and our tracks and examinations were made principally on the
+opposite shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove
+opening, of no importance. See volume 1.
+
+POINT SMITH is in latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude
+132 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and extending
+into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG BAY. This bay has
+an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be shoal. A small sandy island
+lies at the distance of a mile and three-quarters from the shore; the
+reef projects into the sea for nearly a mile farther, and apparently
+extends to the South-West to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a
+small opening at the bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be
+had in Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, and
+as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered in the
+easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a half. The latter
+cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131
+degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty broad. It
+has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, DUNDAS STRAIT, is
+sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, CLARENCE STRAIT, is
+seventeen miles wide, and communicates with the sea round the south sides
+of Melville and Bathurst Islands: it is probably not so safe as Dundas'
+Strait, on account of Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its
+western end.
+
+The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south side of
+Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the eastward of MOUNTS
+BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS,
+forming a channel or port within them twenty miles deep and from three to
+six broad; the entrance to it is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND,
+which is separated from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and
+a half wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for
+half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within it the
+bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and principally of mud.
+This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes.
+
+The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores are very low,
+and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are the two (and probably
+three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost (or centre) is fronted by FIELD
+ISLAND, the centre of which is in 12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132
+degrees 25 minutes 10 seconds longitude. These rivers have been described
+in the narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and
+forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or eight
+miles.
+
+In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled with wooded
+hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards Wellington Range, of
+which they might be considered a part: but between the rivers and
+Clarence Strait the country is low and flat, and only protected from
+inroads of the sea by a barrier of sandhills, beyond which not a vestige
+of the interior could be seen.
+
+CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from the
+mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen to
+thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, between Cape
+Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group of four low rocky
+islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's Islands) from which
+considerable reefs extend towards either shore.
+
+The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape Gambier,
+which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; and there also
+appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the south side; but the
+neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. The flood-tide sets to the
+eastward into the gulf.
+
+MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of
+Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith
+being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its
+circumference is two hundred miles.
+
+We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley
+Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130
+degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared
+fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess
+several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays
+on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side,
+and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there
+may be a port there also.
+
+BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be
+a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to
+yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs
+and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of
+Melville Island.
+
+The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends
+towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake
+Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the
+land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays.
+
+The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes
+15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to
+the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending
+uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance,
+whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the
+eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit
+projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of
+which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable
+shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for
+seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern
+limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep;
+we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near
+its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are
+channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side,
+across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail
+into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in
+on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of
+Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears
+South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape
+Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point,
+forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the
+bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the
+strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a
+remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing
+South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going,
+and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms,
+until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul
+in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.
+
+(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.)
+
+The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point
+Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to
+eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on
+its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide.
+
+APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the
+widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six
+miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude
+11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from
+Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the
+north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is
+generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the
+south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very
+intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger,
+for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the
+channel.
+
+BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a
+circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western
+side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles
+wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is
+fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near
+the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin
+Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may
+be obtained.
+
+PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes
+30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East
+direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind
+under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a
+mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some
+wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the
+two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When
+within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a
+quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a
+quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep.
+
+The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges
+of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side
+of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.
+
+Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next
+fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 4.
+
+OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST BETWEEN
+CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.
+
+NORTH-WEST COAST.
+
+The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, between Cape
+Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very materially from the
+regularity of the monsoons in the sea that divides it from Timor and the
+islands to the northward; excepting in the narrower part between Cape
+Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, where, from the contracted nature of the
+sea, more regular winds may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences
+about the beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows
+with great strength, and will be found more regular close to the
+projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the character
+of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.
+
+After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape Londonderry are
+very irregular, and generally blow from the southward or south-west; they
+are however more constant to the westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago,
+where the seabreezes blow principally from the North-West along the land.
+At intervals, during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from
+South-East, but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours.
+Ships may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during the
+easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in the mid sea,
+without being much delayed by calms. Towards the North-west Cape, neither
+the monsoon nor the South East trade are much experienced, the wind being
+generally from the South-West or North-West.
+
+During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the months of
+December and January, the wind is regular between West-North-West and
+West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of the North-west Cape,
+sometimes blows hard; but even in these tropical regions, when the
+weather is very bad, the change is predicted by the barometer, which
+otherwise is scarcely affected.
+
+In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is less constant,
+and the wind often blows off the land, so that a ship could make her
+westing, when, if more to the northward, it would be impossible for her
+to gain any ground. At the latter end of February the westerly winds die
+away, and are succeeded by light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp,
+unwholesome weather, and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind
+and rain.
+
+If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes to get to
+the westward, she will find the wind more regular and strong from the
+eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the easterly monsoon lasts
+until the first or second week in November: in the months of September
+and October, to the southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds
+are almost constant from South-West.
+
+The currents are stronger according to the regularity and strength of the
+wind, and generally set at the rate of one or one knot and a half. The
+tides in this part of the coast are noticed in the description of the
+places where they were observed. High water at full and change takes
+place at:
+
+The anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.
+
+In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.
+
+In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.
+
+In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes.
+
+The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and
+particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to
+increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of
+Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose
+thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the
+coast.
+
+The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for
+the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van
+Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and
+Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay
+the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the
+westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the
+observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the
+North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is
+about two degrees Westerly.
+
+On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to
+the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it
+was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point
+that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port;
+and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East.
+
+CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude
+131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is
+fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea;
+their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape.
+
+Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of
+which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for
+eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by
+PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern
+island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30
+seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is
+overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel
+existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded
+by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless,
+since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay
+affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom.
+
+CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130
+degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from
+it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a
+bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland
+there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are
+conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They
+are the Barthelemy Hills.
+
+A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13
+degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the
+eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it
+for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much
+more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for
+fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks,
+occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from
+two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven
+fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow
+mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for
+six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or
+seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is
+MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of
+clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow
+entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the
+anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small
+ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep
+and rocky.
+
+Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and
+longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in
+latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17
+minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a
+distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a
+greater distance than a mile and a half.
+
+To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad
+weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is
+nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and
+twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for
+seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the
+back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in
+which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being
+sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the
+rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be
+of considerable size and importance.
+
+The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an
+extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which
+project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is
+twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a
+narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast.
+
+The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from
+the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and
+terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island,
+in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and
+their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of
+mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.
+
+CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly
+direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and
+Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which
+there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides
+the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles
+and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the
+shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs
+project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side
+of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven
+fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the
+neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is
+in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees
+24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and
+rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like
+Lacrosse Island.
+
+Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for
+twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms,
+of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse
+Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the
+shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf
+is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently
+marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and
+affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in
+mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore
+near the edge of the bank.
+
+The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and
+West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and
+four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that
+washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend
+together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion,
+for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm
+extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then
+divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to
+the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend
+to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles
+in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles,
+gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills:
+before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by
+several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts
+to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the
+tide runs with great strength.
+
+At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore
+is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill
+rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit,
+was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of
+the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great
+extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The
+hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The
+basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with
+from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills,
+is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five
+miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut,
+leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands,
+which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow
+stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared
+to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The
+water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it
+is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some
+parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs
+through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally
+recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some
+very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part
+of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were
+there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part
+of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous:
+there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An
+alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.
+
+The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of
+ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of
+any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few
+sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are
+many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE
+HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place
+there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably
+produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a
+flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only
+visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be
+seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six
+miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and
+longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to
+conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could
+be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more
+than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more
+westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats
+might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward.
+To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than
+two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the
+bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it:
+behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the
+above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the
+shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and
+surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its
+north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than
+to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the
+South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy
+bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five
+miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully
+in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more
+particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it.
+
+CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the
+reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it
+a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's
+Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef.
+The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50
+seconds East.
+
+The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE
+TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and
+projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the
+cape a ship may approach it within two miles.
+
+To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve
+miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM
+MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at
+the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another
+remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal
+island.
+
+At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of
+VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of
+the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three
+miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the
+width of little more than half a mile.
+
+The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of
+which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and
+extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island.
+
+The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends
+to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44
+minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The
+passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free
+from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse
+Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms,
+upon a muddy bottom.
+
+The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the
+eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In
+entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock,
+and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the
+port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer
+directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you
+may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have
+passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay.
+There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is
+too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great
+strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will
+carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it
+should not be attempted.
+
+The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE
+BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide,
+and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND
+(latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11
+minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably
+quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east
+side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so,
+would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near
+it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the
+port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude
+126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it
+offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be
+approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may
+be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays
+fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the
+bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze
+has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be
+found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven
+fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern
+entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet.
+
+JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel
+is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10
+seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the
+extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land
+is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the
+shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef
+commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where
+it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs,
+which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the
+northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend
+in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east
+extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees
+32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow,
+and not more than five or six miles broad.
+
+There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends
+in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about
+from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its
+north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles
+West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite
+clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the
+channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it
+is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three
+fathoms deep.
+
+Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is
+twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port
+Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group
+off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE
+ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called
+Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group,
+and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side
+of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and
+rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form,
+and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is
+also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to
+have been seen by the French.
+
+In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and
+surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy
+beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off
+its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the
+island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in
+latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42
+minutes.
+
+PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the
+bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but
+equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in
+from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but
+the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms.
+
+At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets,
+which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded
+hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove
+creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port
+Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less
+considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we
+had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and
+longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the
+eastward. We did not enter it.
+
+CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than
+twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu
+Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14
+degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12
+seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its
+shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the
+width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.
+
+The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three
+rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck:
+the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds,
+longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's
+Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty
+miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which
+is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS;
+besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of
+larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S.
+They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and
+shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees,
+growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14
+degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was
+visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of
+the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20
+seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both
+rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition
+of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them
+appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the
+islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the
+anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that
+separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine
+port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is
+from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and
+change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter
+later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in
+Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end
+of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound:
+they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct
+positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to
+seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end
+appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of
+Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven
+leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and
+longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.
+
+SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it
+is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is
+of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the
+deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to
+fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the
+westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of
+Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there
+may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of
+Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me
+in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore
+Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two
+miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south
+extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is
+in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56
+minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a
+considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the
+outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group.
+
+YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between
+Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is
+spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however,
+very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also,
+possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which
+has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in
+latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9
+minutes 25 seconds.
+
+At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious
+port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated
+by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on
+either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises
+at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the
+entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's
+River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a
+small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very
+probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of
+the strength of the tides.
+
+HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and
+a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four
+miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in
+its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise
+precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A
+vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its
+course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the
+entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125
+degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the
+East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for
+thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was
+supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven
+miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but,
+in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine
+feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by
+precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible.
+
+Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter
+is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef,
+on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON,
+which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side
+is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good
+anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid
+was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18
+seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson
+communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands,
+which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the
+southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one
+mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which
+always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best:
+the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through.
+
+(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during
+our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so
+great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds.
+
+The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15
+degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds,
+and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8
+seconds.
+Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds
+South.
+
+The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two
+visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken
+at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians
+of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8
+seconds.
+
+1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the
+sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the
+east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds.
+
+1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the
+sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the
+west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River,
+was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay
+124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds.
+
+The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46
+seconds East.)
+
+The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are
+situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or
+eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island
+are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes,
+and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles
+long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in
+length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well
+clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of
+the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the
+country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks
+upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full
+and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu
+Sound.
+
+Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands
+extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the
+principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as
+resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no
+difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30
+seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other
+islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On
+the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees
+55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds.
+
+We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within
+one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from
+the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward.
+
+BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE
+BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124
+degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point
+Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in
+extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much
+indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince
+Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth.
+
+PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature
+of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form
+extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the
+character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular;
+of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river,
+Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a
+South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point
+to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance
+is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a
+width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in
+hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little
+more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little
+more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St.
+George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little
+wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile
+and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by
+islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of
+the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay,
+but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two
+inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid
+eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel
+is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the
+eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here
+the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the
+western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very
+good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an
+inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the
+river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to
+communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate
+the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay
+Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust
+our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of
+this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway
+Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with
+abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the
+bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the
+observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See
+above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and
+not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the
+shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts
+at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within
+three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky
+shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very
+strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into
+a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two
+conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S
+ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS
+TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in
+latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4
+minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords
+no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The
+northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which
+trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five
+miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or
+three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country.
+At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the
+river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight
+for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which
+rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river
+assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to
+one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms
+deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and
+continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few
+slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a
+bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was
+very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream,
+and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's
+River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when
+it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did
+not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the
+stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water
+river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow
+of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen
+miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of
+fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one
+hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very
+large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our
+visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a
+very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on
+either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north
+side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would
+probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from
+the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful,
+for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water
+took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock:
+the tide rose twenty-four feet.
+
+HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed
+from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no
+danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep
+chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay
+terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets,
+particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the
+north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in
+latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46
+minutes 50 seconds.
+
+HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from
+Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees
+14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds.
+Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10
+seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE
+THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles
+long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky
+islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees
+18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds.
+The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND,
+eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its
+eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between
+Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also
+very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port
+George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating
+with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of
+Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently
+deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can
+be used.
+
+POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end
+of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the
+distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that
+extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the
+north-west is another group of rocky islands.
+
+To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for
+five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral
+reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small
+islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate
+and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an
+open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the
+sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM
+MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending
+North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the
+Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms
+deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of
+Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the
+latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of
+these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called
+by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the
+westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and
+longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny
+Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North
+26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from
+Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef.
+
+DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the
+CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are
+dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45
+seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands,
+and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep
+and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half,
+the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen
+minutes after the moon's transit.
+
+Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the
+mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a
+multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of
+anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for
+the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a
+south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared
+to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An
+irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the
+North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To
+the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be
+formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through
+some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength,
+foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of
+rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of
+Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the
+South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to
+the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay,
+and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide.
+The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is
+twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets,
+which bear due south from Sunday Strait.
+
+MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this
+extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are
+low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which
+are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching
+to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to
+be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the
+rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with
+vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait
+of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league
+and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings
+between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it
+to reduce it to the depth at low water.
+
+Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are
+COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef
+extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought
+improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the
+westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15
+degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the
+North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to
+the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage
+ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell
+thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands
+are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but
+within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on
+one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two
+islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other
+part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.
+
+MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight miles in
+extent; the principal and highest island is near the south end of the
+group; those to the northward are small and straggling. The centre of the
+highest is in latitude 15 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees
+42 minutes.
+
+CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in latitude 16
+degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 18 minutes 35
+seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a range of islands, extending in
+the direction of North 60 degrees West; among which Cleft Island, so
+named from a remarkable cleft or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S
+MONUMENT, are conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is
+separated from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction
+to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and from
+fifteen to twenty deep.
+
+Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of Caffarelli Island
+is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of about a mile in diameter;
+three miles to the north-east of which we had irregular soundings,
+between thirty-eight and forty-five fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef
+is in 15 degrees 57 minutes South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds
+East.
+
+Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, surrounded by a
+reef; and eight miles farther are several small rocky islands, forming
+the north extremity of a range, which, extending to the South by East for
+ten miles, form the eastern side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and
+in fact the only safe communication with the deep opening between Point
+Cunningham and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point
+Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a multitude of
+islands and islets, separated from each other by narrow and, probably, by
+deep channels, through which the tide rushes with frightful rapidity.
+Sunday Strait is more than four miles wide, and appears to be free from
+danger. The tide sets through it at the rate of four or five miles an
+hour, and forms strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for
+a boat to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in
+passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a great
+measure avoid passing through them.
+
+CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; it is
+fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found was two
+fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and near the inlets at
+the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy bottom, with eight and nine
+fathoms mud.
+
+POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its easternmost
+extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds and longitude
+123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward it has the appearance of being
+an island, as the land to the westward is rather lower: two miles and a
+half south of it is Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.
+
+The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for seventeen
+miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond which we did not
+penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in latitude about 16 degrees 58
+minutes, and to the south of it the land was seen trending to the South
+by East for four or five miles, when it was lost in distance. From this
+anchorage no land was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the
+bearings of East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of
+land was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but this,
+as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part off Point
+Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.
+
+From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, there is
+enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the extent of the
+opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great rise and fall of the
+tides, there must be a very extensive gulf or opening, totally different
+from everything that has been before seen.
+
+There is also good reason to suspect that the land between Cape Leveque
+and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the mouth of this opening
+is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say that the land even of Cape
+Villaret may not also be an island? The French expedition only saw small
+portions of the coast to the southward; but it does not appear probable
+that the opening extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)
+
+Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from the summit
+of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and merely covered with
+a few shrubs, and is about three miles from east to west, and from one to
+one and a half broad; its west end is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and
+123 degrees 9 minutes 15 seconds East. At about a league North-West from
+its western end are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we
+passed, but which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation
+upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of Adele
+Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in some parts of
+which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only just below the
+surface. The light-coloured water extends for fourteen miles North West
+by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but there is reason to think that the
+water is deep over the greater part of it; for we crossed over its tail,
+and sounded in forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the
+darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and
+forty-four fathoms.
+
+POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape Leveque; it
+has an island close off its extremity, round which the tide rushes with
+great force, and forms a line of ripplings for ten miles to the
+West-North-West, through which, even in the Bathurst, we found it
+dangerous to pass. Five miles to the north-eastward of the point are two
+small rocky islets, two miles apart from each other.
+
+CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its extremity:
+its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 seconds, and
+longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between the cape and Point
+Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed of rocks. It was in this bay
+that the Buccaneers anchored, which Dampier has so well described.
+
+The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 degrees West
+nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country sandy and unproductive.
+Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a bay ten miles deep, backed by
+very low sandy land; and five miles further is another bay, that appeared
+to be very shoal: thence the coast extends to the South-West for
+twenty-three miles to CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to
+the northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance of
+vegetation.
+
+Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they are three in
+number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by five wide. They lie
+in a North-West direction, and are two miles apart: the north-westernmost
+is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 122
+degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they are low and slightly clothed with
+bushes, and seem to be little more than the dry parts of the reef, on
+which a soil has been accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These
+islands appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The
+variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.
+
+In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes
+30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES BALEINES; which we
+did not approach near enough to see.
+
+Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is six miles
+deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was not distinctly
+seen, but from the appearance of the land behind the beach, it is not
+improbable that there may be a rivulet falling into it.
+
+At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where there is a
+range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to present a more verdant
+and pleasing appearance than to the north: the interior rises to an
+unusual height, and forms a round-backed hill, covered with trees: it
+reminded us of the appearance of the country of the north coast, and is
+so different from the rugged and barren character of the Islands of
+Buccaneer's Archipelago as to afford an additional ground for our
+conjecture of the insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four
+miles to the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low
+coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy beaches.
+
+CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; here the
+shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and six deep: the
+south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which is composed of
+sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the character of the
+interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 degrees 53 minutes, the
+coast trends to the South-East for about fifteen miles, where it was lost
+to view in distance: the extreme was a low sandy point, and appeared to
+be the south extremity of the land. The space to the south of this, which
+appeared to be a strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape
+Leveque, is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to
+Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in latitude 18
+degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes 45
+seconds.
+
+The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called ROEBUCK BAY.
+It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year 1688.
+
+Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are two lumps,
+which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape Latouche-Treville has a
+small hummock near its extremity, in latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and
+longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there
+is a shallow bay open to the northward.
+
+The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between eight and
+twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in some parts
+sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms at one heave, but
+the least water was eight fathoms. The flood-tide sets to the eastward,
+towards the opening, and at an anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the
+ebb ran to the North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not
+rise more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it
+flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening behind
+Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not communicate with that
+behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago.
+
+The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, was not
+seen by us. The following brief description of it is taken from M. De
+Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's voyage.
+
+LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the bottom of which
+was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as well as the neighbouring
+land; and, with the exception of a small grove of trees a little to the
+north of Cape Duhamel, the country is sterile everywhere.
+
+The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which are dry,
+on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel between it and the
+shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two and a half fathoms. The
+dry part of the reef extends from east to west for about two miles.
+
+Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and sterile, with
+rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of the same character.
+
+With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the west of Cape
+Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs des Planaires, the
+French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy and Keraudren, but at a
+great distance. It appeared low and sterile.
+
+The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable longitudinal
+extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined the mainland: some
+parts seemed to be dry at low water.
+
+There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, situated nearly
+North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 minutes latitude.
+
+North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and Cape
+Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the entrance, is
+BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 116
+degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 degrees 52 minutes East of
+Greenwich. It is low and sandy.
+
+The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be connected
+with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and sand.
+
+The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape
+itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile.
+
+TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the
+south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the
+other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The
+Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile
+of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing
+in fine weather.
+
+The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE
+COSSIGNY.
+
+The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are
+joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe
+sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous
+reefs.
+
+At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low,
+but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind
+Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid
+down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck,
+and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive
+reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an
+amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in
+the distance.
+
+All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which
+is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first
+volume.
+
+We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be
+a bay, on which the French found a stream of water.
+
+Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards
+the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT
+ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry
+rocks; we passed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.
+
+To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30
+seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep
+openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not
+distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that
+separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point
+has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S
+BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores
+are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords
+good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the
+North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is,
+however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little
+elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive,
+the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we
+know, free from danger.
+
+DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and
+also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend
+for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in
+latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1
+minute 25 seconds; the passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND,
+is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep.
+The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we
+passed several straggling rocks.
+
+LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine
+miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its
+south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several
+rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks;
+its North-West point is in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and
+longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west
+extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its
+shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground
+under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a
+rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the
+cable, being a chain was not damaged.
+
+The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and
+very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It
+consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a
+space of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a
+small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the
+westernmost.
+
+GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and
+south direction; they are high and rocky. The west shore of Gidley Island
+appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry
+rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a
+very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger
+than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at
+low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep passage
+through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted
+in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward,
+are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the
+main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the
+eastern shore of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording
+safe and secure anchorage at all seasons.
+
+The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The
+north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt,
+Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit
+is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes
+35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in
+four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a
+strait a mile wide; it is probably deep.
+
+The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of
+land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are
+two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but
+of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre
+of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite
+sides of the island, forming a bay on either side.
+
+To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the
+circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was called
+INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable
+summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and
+longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that
+the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel
+between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and
+eight fathoms deep.
+
+(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
+
+ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a
+half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is
+ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in latitude 20 degrees 35
+minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To
+the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from
+Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half
+wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or
+South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by
+North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 degrees 27
+minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity
+of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands,
+particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of
+three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of
+flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3
+page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all
+certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and
+remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the
+others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago,
+particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will
+shelter a ship from whatever point the wind may blow.
+
+There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a
+great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is
+doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any
+fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of
+the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives
+seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far
+off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the
+islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from
+its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies
+off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good
+protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the
+south side of Enderby Island.
+
+The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of
+the bay again assumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of
+hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West
+direction from the interior, and reaches the shores of the bay, when it
+extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a
+valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from
+the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is
+connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in
+latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5
+minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East
+from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third
+of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there
+appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the
+particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished.
+
+There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the
+South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and forms a bay,
+the shores of which were not seen.
+
+From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character from that
+to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by
+mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the
+interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range
+of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in
+diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger
+size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from
+the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and
+apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in
+diameter. It is visible for about five leagues.
+
+Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight,
+with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of
+water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and
+thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the
+South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then
+for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.
+
+Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles,
+there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast,
+separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one
+to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for
+the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth
+among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally
+of gravel or sand.
+
+CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek
+running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with
+mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it.
+The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy
+season, is inundated.
+
+The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen
+miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further,
+forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are
+low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance.
+
+BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate
+height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A
+considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side,
+where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three
+islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of
+Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the
+main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE
+POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French
+charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10
+degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us,
+since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they
+do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but
+little doubt.
+
+LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any
+vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart.
+From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at
+different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for
+five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is
+described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is
+but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part
+in 1822.*
+
+(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
+
+From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my
+mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the
+French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The
+latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises
+the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended
+upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of
+which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places
+formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present
+time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the
+error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from
+shame or from carelessness and indifference.
+
+A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40
+seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen
+by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as
+appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette.
+
+EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is
+thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and
+Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a
+very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it
+is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but
+one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two
+others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to
+distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to,
+as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y
+and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western
+shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from
+danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy
+bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some
+bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky.
+In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and
+in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here
+the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but
+the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and
+narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet,
+or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the
+sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the
+gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has
+puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the
+descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the
+longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended
+to.
+
+(*Footnote. Vide below.)
+
+The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its
+insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name
+of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern
+side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that
+it was in vain that we attempted to examine its shores, which was also
+rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from
+our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from
+the South-West.
+
+The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles
+to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called
+VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated
+from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit
+extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile.
+
+The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes
+40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming
+Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114
+degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.
+
+OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN
+THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN.
+
+NORTH-WEST COAST.
+
+We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having
+only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they
+prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering
+sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June,
+July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the
+North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast
+ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the
+neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost
+constant from South-South-West.
+
+Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33
+minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is
+defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it.
+The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the
+north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to
+the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is
+evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact,
+it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the
+latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it
+probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23
+degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef,
+on which the sea was breaking heavily.
+
+(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
+
+CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113
+degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of
+it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer
+shelter from the prevailing winds.
+
+Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the
+land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which
+did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high,
+level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point,
+in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21
+minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay.
+The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is
+indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was
+drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage.
+
+The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are
+composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only
+irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the
+latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called
+KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half
+wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable.
+
+DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25
+degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here
+separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a
+shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and
+of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of
+breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a
+commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east
+and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of
+this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef
+extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford
+protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west.
+The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing
+in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with
+turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and
+embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken,
+since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at
+high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that
+there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and
+the shore with ten fathoms.
+
+The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's
+account (page 189 et seq.)
+
+In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk
+Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east
+to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three
+fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of
+the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east
+head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a
+cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence
+to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY
+is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in
+it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe
+and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal
+bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a
+moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for
+boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity
+of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and
+Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour
+(Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the
+line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal
+and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open.
+
+The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main,
+is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from
+either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the
+rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but
+immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet
+says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may
+enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and
+excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass
+in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for
+the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the
+breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from
+twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without
+altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of
+Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over
+which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.
+
+USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite
+unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom,
+although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is
+twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six
+leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the
+depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether
+ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the
+shoals extending so far off.
+
+On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep
+bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the
+harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S
+HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY,
+at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may
+almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory.
+
+From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the
+reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They
+were then supposed to extend to the North-East.
+
+The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The
+opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the
+water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says:
+"Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure;
+l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194.
+
+Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on
+the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger
+size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE
+ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues.
+
+Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern
+shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach
+the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they
+distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up
+vegetation.
+
+Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that
+in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on
+account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of
+procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage,
+and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from
+the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom.
+The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The
+Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the
+cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and
+East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction.
+
+The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's
+account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the
+harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him,
+and there is also much valuable information upon various heads,
+particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of
+the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as
+these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been
+disregarded.
+
+From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a
+precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the
+height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with
+an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level,
+and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any
+chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was
+between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the
+neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.
+
+GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West
+winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who
+sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it
+is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and
+of sterile appearance.
+
+RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range
+of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends
+to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and
+continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and
+sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately
+high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part
+of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18
+minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees
+55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north
+end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the
+WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30
+seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in
+front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three
+small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the
+hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore
+indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more
+wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more
+fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the
+North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from
+twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a
+dark gray colour.
+
+CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the
+southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore.
+
+HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent
+to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles
+long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end,
+with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the
+southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4
+degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel
+(GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than
+twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about
+three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from
+the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high
+over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who
+commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have
+steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef
+that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is
+from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)
+
+From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16
+minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie
+from five to seven miles from the shore.
+
+In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked
+hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch
+upon the land.
+
+Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did
+not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from
+Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the
+shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At
+the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky
+range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.
+
+To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the
+southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast
+to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are
+three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in
+latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of
+these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51
+minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of
+bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty
+miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly
+wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles
+from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes)
+is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be
+connected with the rocks that line the coast.
+
+The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's
+account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).
+
+"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds,
+and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115
+degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is
+obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over,
+and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering,
+the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided
+into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of
+water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must
+then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right
+bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the
+depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends
+in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of
+consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on
+the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond
+these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low
+point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this
+point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep.
+Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms
+spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East
+is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called
+MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point,
+fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river,
+with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two
+miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by
+shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more
+than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to
+fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of
+a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel
+from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French
+boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds
+through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when
+it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the
+other."
+
+In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of
+large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of
+the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On
+the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is
+more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by
+Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon,
+particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off
+its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a
+convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with
+great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is
+very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the
+French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of
+Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115
+degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50
+minutes West.
+
+BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is
+equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh
+water.
+
+To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy
+miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and
+north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky
+point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114
+degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the
+southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste
+Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59
+minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here
+of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of
+bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees
+57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart.
+It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.
+
+OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE
+THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.
+
+SOUTH COAST.
+
+Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is
+generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very
+much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which
+is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so
+happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait,
+by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to
+that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more
+regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of
+Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that
+sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the
+coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the
+character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the
+westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by
+the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally
+blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales
+are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but,
+in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of
+South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a
+deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves
+with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the
+South-East, with fine weather.
+
+(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.)
+
+The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise
+always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the
+North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half
+inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any
+velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to
+the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer
+upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to
+the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would
+otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be
+detained probably a week.
+
+Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a
+southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land,
+without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage.
+
+KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the
+year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America.
+It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the
+purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly;
+the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other
+shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and
+birds.
+
+There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a
+large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time
+that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but
+for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is
+preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the
+shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at
+their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily
+visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy
+bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams
+of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship
+might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it.
+Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or
+perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily
+found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that
+projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being
+the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the
+back of Seal Island.
+
+The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is
+sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS
+ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to
+the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in
+six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the
+summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow
+strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in
+the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed,
+and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not
+greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant
+consequence.
+
+There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above
+mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats
+with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the
+casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with
+the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their
+character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have
+seen.
+
+Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes
+at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the
+stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality,
+without the trouble of digging.
+
+Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet
+at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is
+likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more
+if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high
+water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be
+prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time.
+
+A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy
+beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the
+breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the
+summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the
+bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea
+Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be
+sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western
+summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a
+little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.
+
+After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the
+flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit
+of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the
+watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore
+bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps
+and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly
+winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If
+the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the
+edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient
+quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it.
+
+The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed
+eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10
+minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular,
+and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her
+draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet.
+The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or
+full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of
+Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35
+degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7
+seconds.
+
+A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in
+latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East;
+but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day,
+which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above
+position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page
+32.)
+
+BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass
+Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain
+Flinders' chart.
+
+BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the
+Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South
+Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of
+December, 1824.
+
+"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a
+rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south
+side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the
+Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about
+half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at
+intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it
+is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over
+it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time
+40 degrees 26 minutes."
+
+In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed
+forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them,
+although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.)
+
+The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too
+much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52
+minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany
+Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)
+
+There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned
+to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the
+former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and
+that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by
+the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw
+the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his
+having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his
+difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of
+Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who
+surveyed that island with great care.
+
+Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the
+north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to
+the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great
+caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between
+it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east.
+
+In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two
+miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See
+Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)
+
+There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van
+Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the
+Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid
+down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other
+places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second
+volume of this work.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF
+AUSTRALIA.
+
+REEFS, EAST COAST.
+
+ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude 30 degrees 5
+minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered by the ships Claudine
+and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of May, 1820. Within two cables'
+length of the reef, they found fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile
+off the depth was twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not
+reached. It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the
+centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show at
+intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the reef
+extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one mile, but the
+greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and East-South-East.
+
+MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and longitude 158
+degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 508.)
+
+CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 155
+degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh volume 2
+page 509.)
+
+WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, and longitude
+155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume 2 page 330 and
+Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
+
+CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the master of the
+ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having taken a departure the day
+before from Sandy Cape. It extends east and west for a considerable
+distance: the ship passed round the western extremity at two miles off,
+and found its bearing from Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one
+hundred and seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58
+minutes, and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not
+seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five to twenty
+feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)
+
+SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in latitude 21
+degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 minutes by chronometer,
+which was found correct on making Sandy Cape a day or two afterwards.
+There is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the North-West
+of this position.
+
+KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the ship William
+Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, extends in the direction of
+North West by North 1/2 North for ten miles, and is composed of sand and
+rocks, some of which, at the south end, were six or eight feet out of the
+water: it is six miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in
+latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by
+chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees West, six
+miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.
+
+BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, Lieutenant
+John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was embarrassed for three
+days, in which interval he was sounding in between nineteen and
+forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed shoal parts, upon which the sea
+was breaking. The limits assigned by this officer to the extent of the
+rocky ground, are the parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees
+50 minutes, and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees
+30 minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a chain of
+rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 degrees 30 minutes
+East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings in eight fathoms, with the
+appearance of shoaler water to the South-West; this last danger is in a
+line between the two shoals in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes.
+(See Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)
+
+BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of not less
+than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end are two islets
+with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its south-west extremity:
+they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the ship Avon, September 18,
+1823; and are described by him as being three-quarters of a mile in
+circumference, twenty feet high, and the sea between them twenty fathoms
+deep. At four miles North East by North from them the vessel sounded in
+twelve fathoms, and at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to
+the South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat landed
+on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited only by birds, but
+clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By observation, these islands were
+found to lie in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees
+6 minutes.
+
+A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific Ocean (1824)
+in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, and is there called
+MELLISH REEF.
+
+A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east extremity of which
+is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees
+32 minutes; it is of semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21
+degrees 2 minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.
+
+VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude 20 degrees 5
+minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it presents its convex, or
+outer edge, to the Southward, and extends as far as fifteen miles to the
+South and East.
+
+DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and longitude
+150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
+
+BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees 45 minutes,
+and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 degrees 30 minutes,
+there are several very extensive reefs, various parts of which have been
+seen, according to the following accounts.
+
+Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 minutes, and
+longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of the shoal described
+by M. Tregrosse.
+
+Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw A REEF
+extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and South-West
+direction. The Alert ran along the reef for twenty-five miles: about the
+centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes,
+and longitude 151 degrees 49 minutes.
+
+LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by Lieutenant Vine
+and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude
+151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six miles in length, and lies
+North-North-East and South-South-West.
+
+A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. Tregrosse, of
+the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with the brig Jessie, in
+1821, according to the subjoined account.
+
+On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a range of reefs,
+terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, the easternmost of which
+is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the
+vessels hauled to the wind immediately, but finding they could not pass
+to windward, bore up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four
+p.m., at the distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted
+seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole
+connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: they
+were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet is in 17
+degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 degrees 7 minutes
+East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the group. As it was near
+sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for the night, and at daylight
+bore up on a north course: soon afterwards they saw an islet
+West-North-West; they, however, continued to steer North until eight
+o'clock, and then, having run nine miles, saw another island
+North-North-East. On attempting to steer between the isles, they were
+found to be connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels
+bore up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive
+reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to be
+clear.
+
+The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and 150 degrees
+43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of Paris) and the
+westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, and 150 degrees 32
+minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of Paris). A space of ten or
+twelve leagues between Governor Farquhar's Group and that seen the
+preceding day was passed in the night, and probably may contain other
+reefs. The last group was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS.
+
+NORTH COAST.
+
+The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait in 1817; it
+seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and about fifty yards
+broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 140 degrees
+50 minutes.
+
+In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine coral banks,
+that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; that which Captain
+Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56
+minutes latitude, and 129 degrees 28 minutes longitude. The Alert also
+passed over a shoal patch with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South,
+and 129 degrees 8 minutes East.
+
+NORTH-WEST COAST.
+
+SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no means so
+large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, however, there
+are probably many reefs, which have been occasionally seen. Captain
+Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes and longitude
+124 degrees 10 minutes, and there are shoal soundings in crossing it on
+the following parts, namely:
+
+COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.
+COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.
+COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.
+
+12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.
+16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.
+12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.
+15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.
+
+All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See Horsburgh
+volume 1 page 103.)
+
+CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry sand bank
+surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the northward. It is in
+12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees 56 minutes East, by
+chronometer.
+
+Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of one in
+latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes; and
+the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 degrees 5 minutes.
+
+HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the ship
+Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a shoal, four
+miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. It is in latitude
+11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 28 minutes, by
+chronometers.
+
+Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of which are
+detailed in the following letter.
+
+"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th June, 1811, by
+a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude by
+chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds (allowing the south head of
+Port Jackson to be in 151 degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward
+of the barrier of black rocks, that presented themselves to our view,
+were several sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared
+to have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet
+above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East and
+South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by North direction
+for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on the chart by the name of
+ASHMORE'S SHOAL.
+
+SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered by Captain
+Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in latitude 13 degrees 52
+1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; thence it extends South 16
+degrees East for eighteen or nineteen miles to the north-east point, in
+latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the
+south extent was not ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from
+the situation assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a
+shoal hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is
+little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as well as
+that on which the Cartier struck.
+
+ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the westernmost is the
+Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the north-easternmost the Mermaid's.
+The Imperieuse is ten miles in length from north to south, and its
+greatest breadth five miles: it is surrounded by very deep water and near
+the eastern edge, in latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118
+degrees 51 minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in
+latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) extends
+to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's Shoal, which is
+described below, and, if this is the case, trends North-North-West 1/2
+West for seventeen miles. The south end of Mermaid's Shoal is in 17
+degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to
+the northward for seven miles; but its termination in that direction was
+not seen. The edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was
+obtained with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however,
+there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and seventy
+to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 101.)
+
+MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its north-east end is in
+17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees 57 minutes East, or 5
+degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, from the coast of New Holland in
+latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes South. The longitude of that part of the
+coast by my survey, is 113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the
+Minstrel's Shoal in 119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with
+Clerke's Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is
+certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes.
+
+A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about 16 degrees
+30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East.
+
+RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of this reef is
+recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to be in latitude 19
+degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 40 1/4 minutes; but, by a
+letter published in the Sydney Gazette by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the
+commander, it would appear to be in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds,
+longitude by lunars 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds.
+
+ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
+
+The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water off the
+south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 degrees, and
+longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes.
+
+A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in latitude 43
+degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 minutes.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 8.
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.
+
+INNER ROUTE.
+
+The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing through Torres
+Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's Island; by which route a
+two-days' passage will carry a ship past all danger: but, as the space
+between Wreck Reef and Murray's Island is strewed with dangers, many of
+which have been discovered since the publication of his charts, and of
+which the greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be
+called a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands,
+surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights a
+vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which must be
+the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable loss of the crew.
+The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps in the brig Cyclops,
+bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. It was subsequently followed
+by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in the command of the hired armed vessel
+Kangaroo, on her passage from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This
+officer drew a chart, with a track of his voyage up the coast; which,
+considering the shortness of his time, and other circumstances that
+prevented his obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so
+intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he filled
+up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, which Captain
+Cook did not see; the only part that had previously been left a blank
+upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline was found to be tolerably
+correct, and my alterations have only been caused by better
+opportunities, and by the greater detail of my operations. The general
+feature of the coast has scarcely required correction; the principal
+corrections have been in the number, size, and relative bearings of the
+coral reefs and islands that front it.
+
+(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 page 514.)
+
+In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are magnetic; and the
+courses are freed from the effect of tide or current, since they are only
+temporary, and often of trifling importance.*
+
+(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference should be made to
+the description of the coast contained in this Appendix.)
+
+DIRECTIONS.
+
+Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet 3) in the
+evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on through the night;
+after running, therefore, to the West-North-West for five or six leagues,
+bring to until daylight: but, if the day is before you, the course from
+the extremity of the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred
+miles. You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your
+way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady Elliot's
+Island, and also within the southernmost islet of Bunker's Group, by
+which you will see how the current has affected your course, and you can
+act accordingly: if it has set you to the northward, you may pass on
+either side of or through the islands without danger. After making Cape
+Capricorn, you may leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your
+course about North West by North, pass either within or without the
+Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the Percy
+Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland Islands.
+
+After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that bears from it
+North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, and from 1st Peak
+South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the night, pass close round
+Number 3, when, its situation being known, you can easily avoid it.
+
+The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but that to the
+westward of them, being better known, is therefore recommended as the
+safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's or Bathurst's tracks, which
+will carry a ship round the projections of the coast as far as Cape
+Grafton, as far as which, if the weather is fine, there can be no danger
+of proceeding through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape
+Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, great care
+must be used.
+
+On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, when its
+north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for thirty-five miles;
+you will then be a league to the South-East of a group of low isles; if
+it should be night when you pass them, come no nearer to them than
+fourteen fathoms. In steering this course, great care should be taken,
+not to go too much to the eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw.
+(See above.)
+
+If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, but otherwise
+it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This course will carry a
+ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings will be in seventeen,
+eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the low isles direct your course for
+the Hope Islands, which bear from the former North 18 degrees West
+thirty-eight miles, but the course had better be within that line, to
+avoid some reefs in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore,
+within five miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be
+steered either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better
+route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the distance
+of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid reef a. When you are
+abreast of its north end, steer North by West westerly for twenty-eight
+miles; this will carry you to Cape Bedford which you may round at from
+one to three or four miles. You will see in your way, at three miles and
+a half from the north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles
+from it you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass
+Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north end. These
+three reefs will be to the eastward of your course.
+
+The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must be directed
+accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will discern the summits
+which are marked on the chart. The high conical hill, on the south side
+of the entrance of Endeavour River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which,
+crossed with the summit of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized
+summits or points will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of
+the current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on one
+occasion we found a current in the space between the Endeavour Reef and
+Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the North-West.
+
+Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, you will see
+the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the low wooded island; and
+direct your course round Cape Flattery and Point Lookout, to anchor under
+the Turtle Group, unless you have time before dark to reach the islands
+4, 5, or 6, of Howick's Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In
+rounding Point Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to
+avoid a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see;
+it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the extremity of
+the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or you will find
+anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not recommended, both because
+the wind is generally fresher as you increase your distance from the
+shore, and because it lengthens the distance.
+
+From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until you see the
+hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's Group: then pass
+inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between islet 4 and Cole's
+Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, t, and u. The Mermaid's
+track will direct the course to Cape Melville. If the day is late when
+abreast of 6, of Howick's Group, anchorage had better be secured under
+it, as there is none to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders.
+
+Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group will be seen;
+and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef that projects off the
+Cape (the extremity of which bears from it by compass North West by
+North, and from Pipon's Island South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in
+doing which steer within the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the
+course for the extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the
+course and distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a
+low woody island will be left on the starboard hand.
+
+His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small reef,
+bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the cape, distant
+about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a stone's throw of the
+cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The best anchorage here is under
+the flat-topped hill, at a third of a mile from the shore, in ten
+fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling round the cape, avoid a shoal which
+extends for a short distance from the shore on its western side.
+
+If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run fifteen miles
+further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, indeed, anchorage may
+be obtained under any of the reefs or islets between this part and Cape
+Grenville, for the bottom is universally of mud; and by anchoring with
+the body of a reef, bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently
+sheltered from the sea, which is generally smooth.
+
+On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about twenty-three
+miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, e, and f to the
+southward, of the course; then haul up about North-West 3/4 North, and
+steer within the reef l and Pelican Island, and to seaward of the
+Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which are low and woody.
+
+When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be seen, which
+should be passed at from one to two miles, and the course North by West
+1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which you may pass on either side of,
+the channel between them being quite safe. If you take the latter course,
+steer north, within the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low
+rock that covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and
+pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off Cape
+Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night Island; and,
+when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near the covered shoal v,
+when the course may be directed within Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on
+which there is a sandy islet covered with some bushes) and then steer
+round Cape Direction.
+
+Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you within the
+reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet that lies off
+Restoration Island: continuing this course you will, at about five miles
+beyond the cape, see the long reef e; steer North-West parallel with its
+edge, which extends until you are abreast of Fair Cape, where it
+terminates with a very narrow point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and
+pass between the two easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and
+k; then pass on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island,
+and round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group.
+
+The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous as not to
+require particular mention: the north-west end of every reef will afford
+shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped too near, because the tide
+sweeps round the edge with greater strength than it does at half a mile
+off, within which distance the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is
+advanced and the breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because
+the anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and a
+vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will easily reach
+Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark.
+
+The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by Sunday Island,
+which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a safe place to stop at.
+
+In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from them, to
+avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it sets to the
+North-West across the course. The course is then about North-West 1/4
+West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the reef v, about North West by
+North; the better and more direct plan is to pass within v and w (there
+is, however, a safe channel between them) and when abreast of the west
+end of the latter, the course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2
+West, and the distance about eighteen miles.
+
+There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape York, it
+would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the night, in about
+fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island bearing South-East, but not
+nearer than half a mile, because, within that distance, the bottom is
+rocky.
+
+Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West until Escape
+River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: steer within it about
+North West by North, which will take you inside the covered reef z. Your
+course then must be round the Albany Islands, and hence North West by
+North for a, which is a rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the
+Albany Isles.
+
+The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait is not to
+be recommended for a large ship, on account of the shoal water that
+extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; but the route round the
+north end of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands is preferable. Upon passing
+reef a, Wednesday Island will be seen: in steering towards it, avoid
+standing too close to the rocky islet that is abreast of the strait
+between it and Horned Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about
+a quarter of a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at
+half a mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to the
+northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed this rock,
+steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the south-west end of
+Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the southward of the course, on
+which you will see some dry rocks, which you may pass within half a mile
+of: you will then avoid reef d, which is generally, if not always,
+covered: the fairway of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep.
+
+When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, steer West by
+South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will avoid Larpent's bank,
+and when you have passed it, you are clear of the strait. Hence you may
+steer West 3/4 South through the night, on which course you will very
+gradually deepen your water.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 9.
+
+TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED DURING THE MERMAID'S AND
+BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
+
+COLUMN 1: DATE.
+COLUMN 2: PLACE.
+COLUMN 3: LATITUDE SOUTH IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS.
+COLUMN 4: LONGITUDE EAST IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS.
+COLUMN 5: DIP OF THE NEEDLE IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS.
+COLUMN 6: NORTH OR SOUTH END.
+COLUMN 7: VARIATION IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS.
+COLUMN 8: REMARKS.
+
+1817. October 9, November 28 : Port Jackson, East Coast : 33 51 : 151 15
+: 62 1 30 : South : 8 42 East : Observed on shore, on the north side of
+Sydney Cove.
+
+1819. January : Hobart Town, Van Diemen's Land : 42 54 : 147 27 : 70 7 00
+: South : 9 00 East : Observed on shore.
+
+June 16 : Cleveland Bay, East Coast : 19 10 : 146 56 : 44 6 40 : South :
+5 12 1/2 East : Two observations made at the extremity of the cape.
+
+July : Endeavour River, East Coast : 15 27 : 145 11 : 38 00 00 : South :
+5 27 East : Taken at the tent.
+
+1818. April : Goulburn Island, North Coast : 11 38 : 133 20 : 27 32 30 :
+South : 2 0 East : Taken on Bottle Rock, in South-west Bay.
+
+1820. October : Careening Bay, North-west Coast : 15 6 1/4 : 125 0 : 38
+44 36 : South : 0 43 1/2 West : Taken at the tent.
+
+Dip of the Needle at Port Louis, Simon's Bay, and various parts of the
+Atlantic Ocean, observed upon the Bathurst's return to England.
+
+1821. November : Port Louis, Mauritius : 20 10 : 57 29 East : 51 42 :
+South : 12 00 West : On shore.
+
+1823. February : Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope : 34 11 2/3 : 18 28 1/2 :
+48 23 1/2 : - : 28 to 30 : On shore.
+
+February 9 : False Bay 5 minutes East-South-East of Simon's Bay : - : - :
+48 48 : - : 28 to 30 : On the binnacle.
+
+February 14 : At Sea : 27 18 : 8 50 : 37 57 1/2 : - : 24 00 : On the
+binnacle.
+
+February 16 : At Sea : 23 47 : 4 2 : 30 10 : - : 24 00 : This observation
+is correct to 3/4 degree.
+
+The situation for the above observation bears East 5 degrees North from
+the place where the same dip was observed by M. Perouse on the Coast of
+Brazil.
+
+February 20 : At Sea : 17 7 : 4 57 West : 15 42 1/2 : - : 21 9 : Correct
+to 1/2 degree.
+
+The above situation bears East 16 1/2 degrees North from the place where
+Commodore Baudin observed the dip of 15 degrees; and East 14 degrees
+North from the observation of 14 degrees by M. Perouse.
+
+February 24 : At Sea, four leagues North-North-West from St. Helena : - :
+- : 11 45 : - : 20 35 : Correct to 1/2 degree.
+
+February 26 : At Sea : 14 25 : 7 53 : 7 56 1/4 : - : 18 54 : Correct to
+1/2 degree.
+
+1823. February 27 : At Sea : 12 42 South : 9 21 West : 3 6 3/4 : South :
+18 28 West : -.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 45 degrees East the needle dipped 4 30.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 67 East the needle dipped 11 30.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 78 East the needle dipped 14 30.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 85 East the needle dipped 18 15.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 88 East the needle dipped 20 0.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 91 East the needle dipped 25 0.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 92 1/2 East it was vertical.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of North 95 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 65
+0.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of South 45 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3
+40.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction of South 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3
+0.
+
+Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the
+direction North 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 5 30.
+
+The mean of the observation, on placing either end North and South was 3
+6 3/4 degrees.
+
+The mean of the observation, on placing either end North-East and
+South-West was 3 45.
+
+The mean of the observation, on placing either end South-East and
+North-West was 4 35.
+
+1823. February 28 : At Sea : 11 44 South : 10 12 West : 1 25 : South : 17
+to 18 West : -.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 East the needle
+dipped 2 10.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 60 East the needle
+dipped 2 50.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 70 East the needle
+dipped 4 25.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 80 East the needle
+dipped 5 15.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 90 East the needle
+dipped 8 15.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 92 East the needle
+dipped 14 00.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 60 East the needle
+shifted.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 East the needle
+shifted 2 20.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 West the needle
+shifted 1 40.
+
+Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 West the needle
+shifted 1 00.
+
+Mean when placed at North-East and North-East 1 55.
+
+Mean when placed at North-West and South-East 1 40.
+
+February 28 : At Sea : 11 30 1/2 : 10 20 : 0 45 : South : 17 to 18 West :
+-.
+
+February 28 : At Sea : 11 5 1/2 : 10 34 : 0 15 : North : 17 to 18 West :
+-.
+
+From the above observations, it would appear that the Magnetic Equator
+crosses the meridian of 10 1/2 degrees West, in 11 degrees 12 minutes
+South latitude. At the latter observation--when the direction of the
+instrument was changing, the needle remained quite stationary, the south
+end of the needle pointing to the north, until the change was effected;
+it remained in this position for two seconds of time, and then suddenly
+shifted to the opposite, its proper, direction; its movements were,
+however, very sluggish and irregular in its shifting end for end. The day
+was so rainy that no observation could be made for the variation of the
+compass.
+
+March 1 : At Sea : 10 1 South : 11 31 West : 3 32 1/2 : North : 17 44
+West : -.
+
+March 2 : At Sea : 8 21 South : 12 57 : 6 50 : North : 18 00 : -.
+
+March 5 : At Sea : 7 3 South : 15 42 : 11 22 1/2 : North : 16 5 : -.
+
+March 7 : At Sea : 4 17 South : 18 50 : 19 15 : North : 13 18 : -.
+
+March 9 : At Sea : 0 0 1/3 South : 22 6 1/4 : 27 45 : North : 12 51 : -.
+
+March 24 : At Sea : 17 4 North : 35 40 : 54 23 3/4 : North : 11 3 :
+Correct to 3/4 degree.
+
+March 31 : At Sea : 29 33 North : 38 35 : 65 25 : North : 10 59 : Correct
+to 1 degree.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX A. SECTION 10.
+
+UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED POINTS OF THE SURVEY.
+
+The observations for determining the longitudes of the various parts of
+the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by Troughton: besides
+these valuable instruments we had three chronometers of Arnold's make,
+namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) and 394 (pocket); of which the two first
+were supplied by the Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in
+consequence of 394 having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by
+Parkinson and Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and
+proved to be a most excellent watch.
+
+The situations of the following places, which were either fixed by us or
+adapted from other authorities, served as the basis of the chronometrical
+determination of the longitudes of the intermediate parts.
+
+The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of Sydney Cove in
+PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and otherwise Bennelong
+Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 28 seconds South and
+longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, being, according to the ensuing
+table, the mean of all the observations that have been taken.
+
+Latitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by:
+
+Captain Flinders, in 1795 and 1802: 33 51 45.6.
+De Freycinet in 1802: 33 51 21.
+King (reduced) 1817: 33 51 18.
+Sir T. Brisbane (reduced) 1822: 33 51 30.
+
+Mean Latitude of Fort Macquarie 33 51 28.
+
+Longitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by:
+
+Captain Cook, reduced from his observations at Botany Bay, 1770: 151 11
+32.
+Captain Hunter, 1788: 151 19 43.
+Lieutenant Dawes 1788: 151 18 50.
+Lieutenant Bradley: 151 20 38.
+Malespina: 151 17 53.
+Messrs. Broughton and Crosley, 1795: 151 9 3.
+Captain Flinders, 1795-6: 151 17 12.
+Ditto 1802: 151 11 49.
+Captain De Freycinet, 1802: 151 8 32.
+M. D'Espinosa by an eclipse of sun and occultation of Jupiter 1st and 2nd
+Satellites, 1793: 151 12 45.
+Governor Bligh, 1806, eclipse of sun: 151 17 49.
+Captain P.P. King, 1817, eclipse of sun, calculated by Mr. Rumker: 151 17
+29.
+Sir Thomas Brisbane, 1822 (the mean of six eclipses places his
+observatory in 151 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds): 151 15 32.
+Mr. Rumker, eclipse of sun at Parramatta, reduced to Fort Macquarie: 151
+17 30.
+
+Mean Longitude of Fort Macquarie 151 15 26.
+
+PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end of this
+island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees 13 minutes
+East.
+
+ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was placed within a few yards of
+the shore on the south side of the entrance (the summit of the highest
+bush near the extremity of the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass
+West 3 degrees 40 minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15
+degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49
+seconds. (See note, Appendix A.)
+
+GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle Rock, the
+largest of two rocky islets at the north end of South-west Bay; but the
+results were so doubtful and unsatisfactory, that the longitude
+determined by the chronometers was preferred. The following are the
+observations that were taken to fix its situation, namely:
+
+Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on the
+sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced by survey to
+Bottle Rock 11 37 24.
+
+The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini Island by
+chronometers, taken in:
+
+1819: 7 40 47.
+1820: 7 40 00.
+1821: 7 38 28.
+
+Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 45.
+
+Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 38 46.
+
+Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: 133 18 31.
+
+The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken during the
+years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the rock 133 degrees 31
+minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage the mean of the Bathurst's
+and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds, which was
+finally adapted, since it accorded better with the chronometrical
+difference between its meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never
+been able to account for this extraordinary disagreement between the
+results of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former
+were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to be very
+good.
+
+CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of observations, in
+latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, and 125 degrees 0 minutes
+46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a note.)
+
+KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was adapted
+from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as follows; namely:
+
+The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. Latitude 35
+degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 56 minutes 22
+seconds.
+
+The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head (the first
+sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 minutes, and
+longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds.
+
+COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the flag-staff of FORT
+CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, is in latitude 10 degrees 9
+minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds,
+according to the observations of Captain Flinders.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX B.
+
+CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY
+COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING'S SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN
+COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
+
+Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port Jackson, in
+the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent had been visited by
+very few navigators who have recorded any account of the productions of
+its Animal Kingdom. The first authentic report that we have, is that of
+Vlaming, who is celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the
+black swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in
+his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several of the
+productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but the harvest was
+reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions of Cook, whose names are
+so well and widely known in the fields of science. These distinguished
+naturalists were the first collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales;
+and although their labours were not confined to any particular branch of
+Natural History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which
+the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof.
+
+Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood of the
+colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of White,
+Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and Jamison; and in
+this interval the coasts have been visited by two English and two French
+expeditions of discovery; namely, those commanded by Admiral
+D'Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and Flinders, and Commodore Baudin.
+The first merely touched upon the south coast at the Recherche's
+Archipelago, and on the south shores of Van Diemen's Land; and the second
+only at King George the Third's Sound, near the South-west Cape; but
+these opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of
+Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists, notwithstanding they
+have been since eclipsed by the more extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown,
+whose collections of Natural History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders,
+and his pre-eminent qualifications, have justly raised him to the
+pinnacle of botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly
+elevated.
+
+Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin's voyage, extended their inquiries chiefly
+among the branches of zoological research; but in that expedition each
+department of Natural History had its separate collector, and the names
+of Leschenault de la Tour, Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be
+forgotten. Unfortunately, the Natural History of this voyage has never
+yet been given to the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to
+its publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up by
+MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the form of
+monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the greater part is
+yet untouched, probably from the want of the valuable information which
+died with its collector. M. Peron, in his historical account of that
+expedition, notices a few subjects of zoology that were collected by him,
+but in so vague a manner, that it is with very great doubt that the
+specimens which we procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be
+compared with his descriptions.
+
+Of the Natural History collections of Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown, no
+account has been published, excepting the valuable botanical works of the
+latter gentleman.
+
+With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this
+expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the Animal
+Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have been so
+trifling in number; and that the students of Natural History should have
+suffered disappointment in what might, at first view, be fairly
+considered to have arisen from neglect and careless attention to the
+subject; but as the principal, and almost the only, object of the voyage
+was the survey of the coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly
+considered the most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological
+collection was out of the question. The very few specimens that are now
+offered to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered;
+but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact obliged
+to be left behind from want of room, and from our not possessing
+apparatus for collecting and preserving them.
+
+A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan Cunningham, was
+attached to the expedition; and this gentleman did not fail to make a
+very extensive and valuable collection in his department, the whole of
+which is preserved at Kew.
+
+In making out the Appendix, every species brought home (excepting three
+or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake of furnishing materials
+for the students of Geographical Zoology. The distribution of animals is
+a branch of study that has been very much neglected, which is to be
+lamented, as it appears likely to offer a very great assistance to the
+systematic Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the
+Isle of France have been added to the list.
+
+For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds, reptiles, and
+shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of the British Museum.
+Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the use of his collection, and his
+valuable advice with respect to the few specimens of birds that were
+preserved; and Mr. W.S. MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable
+description of my entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr.
+Cunningham for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown,
+for his description of a new tree from King George the Third's Sound; and
+lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a very
+interesting geological notice from the specimens that have been presented
+to the Geological Society of London, of which he is one of the most
+active and scientific members.
+
+...
+
+VERTEBRATA.
+
+MAMMALIA.
+
+BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC.
+
+1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109.
+Madagascar Bat, Edwards' Birds, t. 108.
+Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45.
+Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson.
+
+This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west Coast,
+appears to agree with Edwards' figure, and with the specimen preserved in
+the British Museum. There is also one in the collection of the Linnean
+Society from Port Jackson. Large flights of these animals were observed
+at Port Keats and in Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat
+seems also to be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster
+describes having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree.
+Forster, page 187.
+
+2. Canis australiae.
+Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191.
+Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw's Zool. 1 278, t. 76.
+
+This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, and dogs, to
+all appearance of the same species, are found on all parts of the coast.
+Captain King presented a living specimen to Sir Everard Home, Bart., who
+sent it to Exeter Change.
+
+In considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am
+supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean
+Transactions 13.)
+
+(*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the
+place alluded to.--P.P.K. [added in "errata"])
+
+Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which particular
+they agree with the Linnean account of the American dog; that, in their
+appearance and cunning disposition, they resemble the fox; and although
+occasionally domesticated in New South Wales, they never lose the sly
+habits peculiar to their breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry
+or biting sheep.
+
+This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from that found
+in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as being "of a singular
+race: they mostly resemble the common cur, but have prodigious large
+heads, remarkably little eyes, prick ears, long hair, and a short bushy
+tail. They are chiefly fed with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the
+Low Isles and New Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they
+live upon fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK,
+only howl now and then." Forster's Observations, page 189.
+
+3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres Austral. ij. 75.
+
+The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of Peron, was
+brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one intended by these
+authors, there is great room to doubt. I am informed that specimens of
+Peron's animal are in the Paris Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic
+Cuvier, who have both lately written upon seals, have only copied the
+very short specific character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is
+gray, covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly
+fur. The ears are short, conical.
+
+It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest (the Phoca
+falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly substance under the hair
+(called fur by the seal-fishers) and by the length of the ear, which in
+the latter species, described by Shaw, is long and awl-shaped.
+
+(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take for this species,
+was brought by Captain Peake from New South Shetland: it differs from
+Pennant's, and consequently from all succeeding descriptions that are
+taken from him, in having five instead of four claws and toes to the hind
+foot.)
+
+Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is found at
+Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George the Third's Sound.
+It appeared also to be the same species that frequents Shark's Bay; and,
+if it is M. Peron's Otaria cinerea, it is also found as far to the
+eastward as Kangaroo Island.
+
+The head is deposited in the Linnean Society's collection.
+
+4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403.
+Didelphis sciurea, Shaw's Zool. 1 t. 113.
+Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson.
+
+A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought home and
+deposited in the British Museum.
+
+5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270.
+Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw's Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114.
+Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts.
+Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405.
+Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson.
+
+This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the opossum tribe,
+is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port Jackson. It was first
+described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New Holland. There are several
+specimens in the Linnean Society's collection. The above is placed in the
+British Museum.
+
+6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ?
+Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville.
+Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21.
+Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f. 1.
+
+A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home and
+deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This animal is very
+common upon the northern coasts of New Holland.
+
+Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of New South
+Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland, abound in cetaceous
+animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within the reefs, the sea is crowded
+with Balaena physalis, Linn., or fin-backed whales, as they are called by
+the whalers, who pay little attention to them, on account of the danger
+of approaching them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical
+situations from these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water
+close to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and their
+occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down with a crushing
+weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous hue, but a few were
+noticed that were variegated black and white. The whales of the
+North-west Coast appeared to be of the same species, but of a darker
+colour. At one of the anchorages, near Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91)
+the brig was for a whole night surrounded by these enormous fish, and the
+crew in momentary dread of their falling on board, the consequence of
+which would have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the
+water, on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon.
+
+...
+
+AVES.
+
+THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE
+CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE
+INSERTED.
+
+1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson.
+Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250.
+Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25.
+
+This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge Gulf, on
+the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by a strong land
+wind.
+
+2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier.
+Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27.
+Piping roller, Latham, 3 86.
+
+3. Barita varia. Cuvier.
+Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173.
+Pied roller, Latham, 3 86.
+
+This appears to be a young specimen.
+
+4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger.
+Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30.
+Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46.
+Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240.
+
+This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South Wales north
+of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of the North-west
+Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend as wide as twenty-four
+degrees of latitude, and twenty-six degrees of longitude. This specimen
+was taken at Endeavour River, on the East Coast. There is also another
+specimen of this bird in the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken
+in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson.
+
+5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin.
+Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276.
+Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161.
+
+This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern Coast.
+
+The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr. Latham in the
+Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree in no respect with that
+genus, as originally characterized by Linnaeus, much less with it as it
+has been modified by modern ornithologists. Whether we consider,
+according to M. Cuvier,* that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea
+tristis, Linn., or, according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula
+religiosa, Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to
+acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential
+characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which it bears
+the closest resemblance in its general appearance; particularly by a
+similar disposition of its colours, and in the structure of its bill,
+wings, and legs. I would at once refer it to that genus, but that I have
+some reason to think that it belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are
+so abundant in New Holland, and which have been observed to assume the
+appearance of almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of
+that country, which have been decided to be
+meliphagous, such as the Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine
+Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4 166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and
+which differ little from the bird before us, have so many external
+relations with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange
+themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the totally
+different structure of their tongue, and the consequent difference in
+their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of feeding of the bird at
+present before us, I can myself say nothing decisively, not having had
+leisure or opportunity, as I have already observed, of attending to the
+more interesting details of Natural History during the expedition. But
+general opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction;
+and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is closely
+allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a new genus, to
+referring them to one, from which, although they agree with it in
+external appearance, they may be totally remote, in consequence of their
+internal anatomy and habits of life. The error at least will not be so
+great, and may be easily retrieved. If the tongue of my birds be found to
+accord with that of the Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group
+of course must fall.
+
+(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.)
+
+(**Footnote. Analyse d'un Syst. Gen. d'Orn. page 52.)
+
+(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate 4.)
+
+Genus MIMETES.*
+
+(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming the appearance of a
+different group.])
+
+Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque apice
+emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus, membrano partim
+tectis.
+
+Lingua ad sugendum idonea ?
+
+Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta aequalibus;
+3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his paulo breviori: remigum
+3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis in medio gradatim productis.
+
+Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque; paratarsiis
+integris.
+
+Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis.
+
+6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim striatus;
+alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis, hac apice albo.
+
+Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28.
+
+Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio longitudinaliter
+fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores nigro-fuscae, ad apicem
+albido-marginatae; inferiores albido nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra
+fuscae, ad marginem externum apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus
+pallide fuscae. Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus,
+duabus mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes
+nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem 3tiam, 5
+7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1 2/10, ad rictum,
+1 3/10.
+
+(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their component parts.)
+
+7. FLAVO-CINCTUS (n.s.) M. flavo-viridis, subtus pallidior, capite
+dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi flavoque variegatis.
+
+Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio fusco-lineatae,
+hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores nigrae, apice
+flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis clausis, fasciam
+conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin nigro-notatae. Remiges
+supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis anguste, secondariis late, apice
+flavo-marginatis; pogoniis externis anguste, internis late,
+flavo-marginatis. Rectrices supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus
+pallidiores, omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali
+notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam rostrum
+M. viridis. Pedes nigri.
+
+The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M. viridis:
+the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat higher, and more
+carinated. The above descriptions will point out the specific differences
+between the two birds, which are strongly apparent, not merely by the M.
+flavo-cinctus being marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but
+by the general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M.
+flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles, particularly in
+the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing, when closed by the
+junction of the apical spots on the quill coverts.
+
+8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756. Bris. 5 163.
+t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774.
+
+This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the north
+extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen already in the
+Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in the neighbourhood of Port
+Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size than most of those with which I
+have compared it, is probably a young specimen. The rufous band on the
+breast is narrower than is usual in the species, originating probably
+from the same circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely.
+
+Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine Islands. It
+appears to have a very extensive range, as it inhabits lands both in the
+North and South Pacific, as well as in the Indian Ocean.
+
+9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.)
+
+H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque basi, albis;
+remigibus primoribus totis nigris.
+
+Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices inferiores
+primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad marginem exteriorem
+nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta; remiges primores supra nigrae,
+subtus fuscae; uropygium album parce nigro variegatum.
+
+Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae a carpo ad
+remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10; caudae, 5.
+
+Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have lately been
+added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a native of Brazil, and
+H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird above described approaches
+more closely to the European species (H. ostralegus) than to the other
+two; but may be distinguished from it by the following characters,
+namely:
+
+In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird by six
+inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the white collar
+round the neck, which is a very distinctive character of H. ostralegus;
+the fascia on the wing is confined to the extremity of the secondary
+quill feathers alone, whilst in the other bird it extends to some of the
+wing coverts: the primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas
+the other has them partially variegated with white: the under wing
+coverts also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer
+secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the under wing
+coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium also, which in the
+European bird is entirely white, is in our specimen partially variegated
+with black. The marginal webs of the toes are much more dilated. The
+whitish lunular mark under the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting
+in our species, of which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish
+tinge, of the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the
+shores of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red
+Bill.
+
+10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558.
+The Little Penguin, Latham.
+
+This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The above
+specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound near the south-west
+extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens in the collection
+marked 9 a, and 9 b.
+
+11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot.
+Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572.
+Frigate Bird.
+
+This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all parts of
+the Atlantic within or near the Tropic.
+
+12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804.
+Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275.
+Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5. Hawkesworth's Coll.
+of Voyages, 3 652.
+Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447.
+
+There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked 12 a, and
+12 b.
+
+13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.)
+S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis, caudaque
+canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis.
+
+Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae primoribus
+obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis fere ad apicem
+albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi apiceque albis; rostrum
+subflavum; pedes nigri.
+
+Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13 1/2;
+caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 1 1/6.
+
+The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more closely united
+to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front than is usual among
+the Terns: it is also to be observed, that the side of the nail of the
+middle toe is considerably dilated, although not serrated, similar to
+what is observed among the Pelecanidae. These characters offer a
+corroboration of the affinity of the Sternae to the family of the
+Pelecanidae, and particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the
+Terns more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller
+size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean Transactions 14
+505). It may also be stated on the other hand, that the same membrane of
+the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from its own genus, and approaches the
+Pelecanidae, in its being more dilated than usual. The wings are longer
+than the tail for a considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces
+another character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate
+bird.
+
+14. Larus georgii (n.s.)
+
+L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia media atra.
+
+Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide maxime
+angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae apice albo,
+infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes flavi.
+
+Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18 3/4;
+mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 2
+11/12; caudae, 8 1/2.
+
+This bird was found at King George the Third's Sound, on the South-west
+Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island.
+
+...
+
+REPTILIA.
+
+BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.
+
+Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray.
+
+Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta.
+Gula pennulis plicatis ornata.
+Pedibus quatuor.
+Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus.
+Cauda elongata, subcylindrica.
+
+Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the side, midway
+between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum of the ear naked; the
+front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in the upper, and four in the
+lower jaw); the hinder ones largest; the side or cheek teeth compressed,
+short, forming a single ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short,
+fleshy, with an oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its
+front part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large plaited
+frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage arising from the
+upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the middle, by an elongation of the
+side fork of the bone of the tongue; body compressed; legs rather long,
+especially the hinder ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with
+five toes, the first having two, the second three, the third four, the
+fourth five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws
+compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly.
+
+This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but differs from
+them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the neck.
+
+1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.)
+
+C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula antice
+serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore.
+Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts.
+Icon. Table A. Natural size.
+
+Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia.
+
+The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head depressed,
+with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the upper part, in which
+the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes covered with larger scales
+than those over the head; eyes rather small, with a fleshy ridge above
+them; eye-lids covered with minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated
+ridge of small upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong,
+four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the upper lip
+being the largest: the chin covered with narrow mid-ribbed scales, with a
+five-sided one in the centre, and several of larger size just over the
+front of the fork of the lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a
+large orbicular scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the
+end of the upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face
+has a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the
+under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill arising from
+the hinder part of the head, just over the front of the ears, and
+attached to the sides of the neck and extending down to the front part of
+the chest, supported above by a lunate cartilage arising from the hinder
+dorsal part of the ear, and in the centre by a bone, which extends about
+half its length: this bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork
+of the bone of the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty
+without injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge
+on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a fifth
+where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of the neck; the
+front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated, but the hinder or
+lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is covered with keeled
+scales, which are largest towards its centre; the inner surface is quite
+smooth. The scales of the back are oval, smoothish; those of the lower
+part of the body and upper part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of
+the sides and joints of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as
+the body, roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards
+the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided; the end is
+blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints, as stated in the
+generic character (which includes also the claw joint) compressed, scaly;
+the claws hooked, horn-coloured.
+
+Length of the tail: 12 inches.
+Length of the body: 5 inches.
+Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches.
+Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch.
+Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches.
+Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches.
+Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches.
+
+This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who
+accompanied the expedition as His Majesty's Botanical Collector for Kew
+Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the bottom of Port
+Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir Everard Home, by whom
+it was deposited in the Museum of the College of Surgeons,* which
+precluded my examination of its internal structure.
+
+(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators of the College, I
+was permitted to have a drawing made of this curious and unique specimen
+for the Appendix of my work. The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from
+an exceedingly correct drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field,
+Esquire. P.P.K.)
+
+Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham's journal contains the
+following remarks. "I secured a lizard of extraordinary appearance, which
+had perched itself upon the stem of a small decayed tree. It had a
+curious crenated membrane like a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering
+its shoulders, and when expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of
+transverse slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open
+umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an animal
+did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to show by its alarm
+or irritability how far it depended upon, or what use it made of, this
+extraordinary membrane when its life was threatened. Its head was rather
+large, and eyes, whilst living, rather prominent; its tongue, although
+bifid, was short and thick, and appeared to be tubular." Cunningham
+manuscripts.
+
+Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and inside of the
+mouth was yellow.
+
+2. Uaranus varius, Merrem.
+Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t. 38.
+Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83.
+Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76.
+Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24.
+
+This species, better known to English Dealers under the name of The Lace
+Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the scales, placed on the
+upper part of the centre of the tail, raised into a biserrated ridge, and
+in the outer toe, or rather thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and
+reaching to the penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the
+claws are compressed, sharp.
+
+Genus PHELSUMA. Gray.
+
+Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis, muticis; poris
+femoralibus distinctis.
+
+Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis minimis, tecti.
+
+This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of France, differs
+from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes being dilated the whole
+length, and entirely clawless, and covered beneath with transverse
+scales; by the thumb being very small and indistinct, and by the thighs
+being furnished with a series of minute pores.
+
+3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.).
+P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus albida.
+Icon. --
+Inhabits Isle of France.
+
+Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate scales; the
+front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather broad red band a
+little before the eyes, and a white crescent-shaped spot on each side
+immediately behind it, and then some obscure red shades just behind that;
+the back lead-coloured and blue, with six longitudinal series of
+irregular-sized red spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the
+body. Body one inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches
+and a half long.
+
+This animal is very interesting, as being the second species of a genus
+recently established, which only consisted of P. cepedia, the Gecko
+cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4 t. 5. f. 5.; which has
+somewhat the manner of colouring, but is very distinct from the Gecko
+ocellatus of Oppel.
+
+Genus TILIQUA. Gray.
+
+Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis.
+Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli.
+Truncus regulariter squamosus.
+
+This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want of Palatine
+teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears being furnished on
+their front part with a fringe. It differs from the succeeding Genus,
+Trachysaurus, in the head being covered with distinct flat plates, and
+the whole of the body with cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder
+than those of the true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the
+Trachysaurus.
+
+4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray.
+Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc.
+Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289.
+Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73.
+Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242.
+Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t. 81.
+
+This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent journal of Mr.
+White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast of Australia, as there
+are several specimens both in the British Museum and in the collection of
+the Linnean Society, that were probably taken in the neighbourhood of the
+colony; the specimen before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George
+the Third's Sound.
+
+The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular, with five or
+six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which gradually taper, and are
+lost just before they reach the margin. The legs are short, thick; the
+toes of the fore-feet are rather short, the outer reaching to the middle
+of the second, the second and third equal; the fourth reaching to the
+last joint of the third, and the little one to the second joint of the
+fourth finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly equal,
+and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half as long as the
+third; and the fifth about half the length of the fourth toe.
+
+Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray.
+
+Pedes quatuor pentadactyli.
+Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli.
+Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra hexagonis
+membranaceis imbricatis, tectus.
+Cauda brevis, depressa.
+
+This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and indeed from the
+whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales that cover the back of
+the body and head; which are formed of distinct triangular long plates,
+rough on the outside, and covered with a membranaceous skin. The body
+shields of the head pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth
+short, thick, and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower
+surface of the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the
+other genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The
+legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many scales
+as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about half as long as
+the three central toes, which are nearly of equal length; claws short,
+conical, channelled beneath. The tail short, depressed.
+
+5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.)
+T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda brevissima.
+
+The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed with the
+scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than usual: those round
+the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior scales on the edge of the
+lower jaw larger than those which cover the lower surface of the head,
+body, and tail, which are uniform, distinct, large, and membranaceous:
+the scales of the back are nearly of equal size with those covering the
+commencement of the tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and
+end in a point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly
+smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather thick, and
+short. The tail about half the length of the body.
+
+Head, three inches long.
+Body, seven inches.
+Tail, four inches.
+
+Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was brought home
+by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had been preserved had
+unfortunately evaporated, so that it was considerably injured; there is,
+however, a specimen, apparently of the same animal, in the collection of
+the Linnean Society, which wants the end of its tail.
+
+The above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound, and is
+preserved in the Museum.
+
+6. Agama muricata. Daud.
+Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White's Journal of a Voyage to New South
+Wales, 244.
+Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211.
+Muricated Lizard, Shaw.
+Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White's Journal t. 31. f. 2.
+
+This lizard was first described in Mr. White's Journal, by the late Dr.
+Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of animals; but he was
+afterwards inclined to consider it as only a variety of the common
+Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from which, however, it is quite
+distinct.
+
+It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only seven inches,
+whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a foot in length; and
+some have been caught even of a much larger size. The Doctor's figure is
+remarkably good, but rather more spinous than the specimen under
+examination, which is probably another proof of its youth. It was taken
+and preserved by Mr. James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as
+surgeon during the Mermaid's third voyage, and has been presented by him
+to the British Museum.
+
+7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D'Hist. Nat. 4 199. 210.
+Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140.
+Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2.
+
+The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this curious
+animal appears to be formed of two series of scales united laterally. The
+length of the specimen brought home by Captain King exceeds four feet.
+The figure by M. Lacepede seems to be too short, but his description
+agrees admirably with our specimen, which has been presented to the
+British Museum.
+
+8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.).
+N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis triangularibus;
+cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus.
+
+(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell's manuscript name for this genus
+since his paper was read at the Zoological club of the Linnean Society,
+before the publication of my genera of Reptiles in the Annals of
+Philosophy, where I erroneously considered it as synonymous with Dr.
+Leach's genus Macrosoma instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.)
+
+Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed on the
+apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather broad. The series
+of scales on the side next to the ventral plates ovate and blunt; those
+on the sides narrow, linear, in five series; the series of scales along
+the centre of the back long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales
+gradually assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head,
+where they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate
+being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central labial
+scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial margin; the
+anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail one-fourth the length
+of the body, covered with uniform ovate quadrangular scales. Length, four
+feet.
+
+This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the genus named
+Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and is very much like
+Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the group called by English
+Zoologists, Whip Snakes.
+
+The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at Careening
+Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the British Museum.
+
+9. Leptophis spilotus.
+Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209.
+
+A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King, agreeing very
+well with the short description given by Lacepede, in his account of some
+new species of animals from New Holland. It has not been taken notice of
+in the modern works on Reptiles. It may, perhaps, be distinct from it;
+but upon considering that upwards of two hundred species of this genus
+have been already described, I thought it best not to increase the number
+without very good reason. This species forms a second section in the
+genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales, particularly those
+of the throat.
+
+Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three kinds are
+common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within the tropic; and
+Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the rivers of the northern
+and north-western coasts, particularly in those that empty themselves
+into the bottom of Van Diemen's Gulf; but as no specimens of either of
+these animals were preserved, no further notice can be taken of them.*
+
+(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east Coast, in the
+neighbourhood of Endeavour River, is a variety of the Testudo mydas. See
+Banks and Solander manuscripts.)
+
+...
+
+PISCES.
+
+BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.
+
+1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203.
+Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2.
+
+2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432.
+Icon. --
+
+There are two other species of this genus in Captain King's collection,
+which appear to be new.
+
+3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26.
+Icon. l.c.
+
+4. Teuthis australis (n.s.).
+T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda truncata.
+Icon. --
+
+Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown bands; the
+first placed across the eye and front angle of the gill flap; the second
+obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the three next, nearly
+equidistant, straight across the body, the last band placed between the
+spine and the base of the rays of the tail; and with a black longitudinal
+line between the eyes. Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and
+denticulated. The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular;
+ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray; dorsal and
+anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side of the tail very
+distinct, imbedded in a sheath.
+
+Pectoral fin, fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one
+very strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong, first
+short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and short. Caudal
+fin, sixteen rays, divided.
+
+Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin 3/4; pectoral
+fin 1 1/4 inches long.
+
+This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by Shaw
+(Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently formed from the
+type of Linnaeus' Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted the latter name for
+those Chetodons which have one spine on each side of the tail, and
+Acanthurus for those that have two. They are usually called Lancet-fish,
+from the curious structure of the sub-caudal spines.
+
+Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other sorts of
+fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings, which I have not
+hitherto been enabled to find in any of the works on Ichthyology, but so
+little is known of the genera and species of this department of Natural
+History, that I am not inclined to describe them as new, for fear of
+increasing the confusion at present existing.
+
+Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a species found
+by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South Atlantic.
+
+5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494.
+Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts.
+
+6. Squalus glaucus.
+
+Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the neighbourhood
+of the coast.
+
+7. Squalus. Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of
+shark was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with a
+very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour, marked with
+darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches in diameter. This
+shark was usually ten or eleven feet long.
+
+...
+
+ANNELIDES.
+
+1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5 322.
+Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524.
+Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5. figure 1.7.
+Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114.
+
+The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long, and was
+procured at the Isle of France.
+
+...
+
+ANNULOSA.
+
+CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN KING, R.N.
+
+BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M., F.L.S.
+
+The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species, of which
+one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata, fifty-eight to
+Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one of the species are
+new, and the extent to which each order of winged insects has been
+collected, will be best understood from the following summary.
+
+COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA.
+COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA.
+
+108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera.
+8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera.
+5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera.
+9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera.
+
+Total 188 Species.
+
+This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general remarks to
+be founded on the collection, and the following Catalogue is, therefore,
+merely descriptive.
+
+CLASS MANDIBULATA.
+
+Order COLEOPTERA.
+
+1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat.
+
+Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the fourth volume
+of Cuvier's Regne Animal.
+
+2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis obscuris,
+basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque rufo-piceis, thorace
+linea media longitudinali vix marginem
+posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis vix
+atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis.
+
+3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13.
+
+Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is very
+vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect collected by
+Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a new name.
+
+4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194. t. 20, f.
+5.
+
+5. Creophilus erythrocephalus.
+Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19.
+
+6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13.
+
+7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48.
+
+8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus, antennis
+sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio majore compressa
+linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum transversarum dissecante, thoracis
+lateribus rufo-ciliatis, elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis.
+
+9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis triphyllis,
+verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice emarginato, tuberculo
+utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus
+dentatis.
+
+Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is more
+convex.
+
+10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3.
+
+11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1.
+
+12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati elevata
+marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis, exterioribus
+interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus inaequalibus, elytris
+tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis alternatim majoribus.
+
+13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63.
+
+Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the type of a
+new genus near to Serica.
+
+14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 463.
+
+Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts, but M. Dejean
+has since published it under the name of Diphucephala.
+
+15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima antennis
+palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus subpunctatis, media
+canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus
+hirsutie incano.
+
+An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ?
+
+16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112.
+C. luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall.
+
+Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and was probably
+collected by Captain King during his stay in that island.
+
+17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1.
+
+18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1.
+
+19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1.
+
+20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44.
+
+21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405.
+
+22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405.
+
+23. Repsimus aeneus.
+Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 166. 30.
+
+24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2.
+
+25. Buprestis macularis.
+Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8.
+
+26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204. 98.
+
+27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8.
+
+28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 7.
+
+29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis nigro-violaceis
+testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace punctato nigro-aeneo
+lateribus testaceis.
+
+Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker varieties
+of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which scarcely any idea can
+be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our insect bears a remarkable
+similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with serrated elytra.
+
+30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv. Ins. 2 32,
+table 12, figure 140.
+
+Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King collected a few
+species in the Isle of France, this is probably one of them.
+
+31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 458,
+table 23, figure 4.
+
+32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace lineis duabus
+parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris integris subacuminatis
+substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis, corpore subtus aeneo.
+
+33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus dilatatis
+serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris punctatis striatis
+pubescentibus basi late auratis dimidiatis.
+
+Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black, except the
+upper half of the elytra.
+
+34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite antennisque atris,
+thorace convexo macula longitudinali sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra
+medium attingente, elytris punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque
+nigro.
+
+Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former, having its
+feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head and a black anal
+spot, something like the letter V.
+
+35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll. 6.
+
+36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico fossulis septem,
+quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum media angusta lanciformi,
+duabus lateralibus latis antice emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro;
+elytrls rubris marginatis lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici
+serie punctorum transversorum crenatis.
+
+37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis; thorace angulis
+porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum trium media longitudinali
+lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro; elytris rubris marginatis lineis
+novem elevatis, quatuor alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis.
+
+38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque nigro-nitidis,
+hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris viridi-caeruleis tomentosis
+punctatis ad suturam marginatis, corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine
+subtus rufo.
+
+39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice antennisque
+apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia humerali mediaque
+violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque nigris.
+
+40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite thoracis
+lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus, quarum postica
+latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice rufescentibus, antennis
+piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis.
+
+41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2.
+Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3.
+
+42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4.
+Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4.
+
+Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the former species.
+
+43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis obscuris, fronte
+puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula utrinque atro-nitida
+impresso, scutello flavo, elytris nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis,
+geniculis tibiis tarsisque nigris.
+
+44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70. 9.
+
+45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72.
+
+46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea pubescens,
+antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi nigris, elytris
+punctis crenatis striatis.
+
+47. Amarygmus tristis.
+Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4.
+
+Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under the head
+of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a native of St.
+Domingo, and a different genus of which the characters are to be found in
+the Genera Crustaceorum et Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of
+late more accurately investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta
+Entomologica, and he has given it the name of Amarygmus.
+
+48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite thoraceque
+viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis, corpore subtus
+chalybeo pedibusque nigris.
+
+49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus labri margine
+rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis minutissimis.
+
+Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus which
+contains a great number of species.
+
+50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 420. 57.
+table 22. figure 2.
+
+51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 466. 17.
+
+52. Phalidura mirabilis.
+Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21. table 23,
+figure 9.
+
+Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are chiefly to
+be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick rustrum, connate
+elytra, and singular anal forceps of the male.
+
+53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato utrinque
+canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis elevatis
+interstitiis crenatis lateribusque punctato-striatis.
+
+54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce impresso,
+clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato dentato margine
+antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor duabus mediis
+longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis scabrosis utrinque dentibus
+acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus seriatim nudulosis medioque linea
+tuberculorum sub-duplici instructo.
+
+Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae; at least
+neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they come close in
+affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the present ventured to
+give them a new generic name.
+
+55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436. 77.
+
+Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean's Catalogue.
+
+56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel punctis
+minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace irregulariter
+noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que elevatis striatis striis
+duabus a sutura alternatim majoribus.
+
+Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed characters of this
+genus at present. I shall merely, therefore, say that it has the broken
+clavate antennae of Phalidura, only they are here longer than the head
+and thorax taken together. The body is very convex:, having the thorax as
+wide as the abdomen, subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined
+to thorax by a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost
+perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated femora.
+
+57. Chrysolopus spectabilis.
+Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184.
+
+58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice trilineato, thorace
+punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato lineis utrinque elevatis,
+elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum duabus interiori anum versus
+abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis obtusis, posticis acutis.
+C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88.
+
+59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato, thorace
+punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis seriatim impressis,
+tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis interiori abbreviata; tuberculo
+postico suturali maximo.
+
+60. Chrysolopus quadridens.
+Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175.
+
+Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to belong to the
+same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M. Dejean until the whole
+family be more accurately investigated.
+
+61. Gastrodus crenulatus.
+Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64.
+
+62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace scabriusculo rugis
+transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba, elytris nigris
+striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis laevibus linea laterali
+alba haud apicem attingente, apice rufescente albo-punctato.
+
+63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa constricto;
+vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus, antennis piceis clava
+obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro: elytris punctis impressis
+striatis, punctis conspicuis argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis
+obscuris.
+
+Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to Megerle's genus
+Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in Pachygaster.
+
+64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95.
+
+65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga clypeo
+lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus albis, thorace
+canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis squamisque cinereis
+subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis, corpore subtus ad latera
+pedibusque albo-squamosis.
+
+66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173.
+Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157.
+
+Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not able in
+this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite the insect
+under its Fabrician title.
+
+67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463. 125.
+Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128.
+
+Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true Rhynchaeni, as
+the preceding one is from the true Curculiones.
+
+68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96.
+Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113.
+
+Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very singular insect
+in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises from each elytron, appears
+to be its peculiar defence against entomological collectors.
+
+69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page 428. 65.
+
+70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 426.
+
+71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis impressus
+vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula postica media alba,
+elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore subtus lateribus albis.
+
+72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis aspersus
+capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis, scutello cinereo,
+elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis, corpore subtus pedibusque
+cinereo-sericeis.
+
+Table B. figure 1.
+
+Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia, and would
+probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The following are the
+characters of this new genus.
+
+CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.)
+
+Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari crassiori,
+secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico acuto,
+
+Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato ciliato.
+
+Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus subsinuatae
+edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel submembranaceae.
+
+Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem versus
+instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato; interno
+tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto.
+
+Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem extensi,
+quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo secundo obconico tertio
+subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali obtuso.
+
+Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo, secundo obconico
+longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice truncato.
+
+Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum medio
+emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato.
+
+Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive edentulo.
+
+Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo quadrato
+vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice convergentibus. Thorax haud
+marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis subcylindricus antice angustius,
+postice sublobatus. Scutellum tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace
+duplo latius. Elytra convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia
+rotundata. Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis
+pulvillatis dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto
+tenuibus obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata
+intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice
+dilatatae.
+
+73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque piceis
+thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel punctis
+confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda lineaque suturali
+impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo pedibusque concoloribus.
+
+Table B. figure 2.
+
+Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but differs from that
+genus in having setiform antennae, porrect mandibles, and securiform
+palpi. Its habit is also totally different from that of a Sagra, and more
+like that of some of those insects which belong to the heterogeneous
+magazine called Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel
+form in Captain King's collection, and forms a new genus, of which the
+characters are as follow.
+
+MEGAMERUS (novum genus).
+
+Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae articulo
+basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali acuto.
+
+Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum
+subemarginatum.
+
+Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae vel
+falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique truncatae
+acutissimae.
+
+Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis apicem versus
+instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato, interno
+tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix unidentato.
+
+Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo,
+secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis longitudine fere
+aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo securiformi compressa.
+
+Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo,
+secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem instructo, tertio
+triangulari compresso vel securiformi.
+
+Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis ciliatis
+interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem rotundatis.
+
+Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico emarginato.
+
+Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud angustius. Thorax
+convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus rotundatis haud
+marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum. Abdomen thorace fere duplo
+latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus marginatis, lateribus parallelis.
+Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis
+dilatatis, penultimo bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica
+valde incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice
+dilatatae angulo externo acuto.
+
+Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in affinity to
+Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more minutely the tarsus
+in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of the French entomologists, and
+the result has been that the arrangement given in the third volume of M.
+Cuvier's Regne Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of
+description, as it is inconsistent with natural affinities.
+
+74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.
+
+75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.
+
+76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus basi
+nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco tomentoso, thorace
+nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus spinulosus, in medio postice
+carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo
+nigro-marginato, elytris testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice
+unidentatis, pectoris lateribus rufo-tomentosis.
+
+77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12.
+
+78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea subtomentosa,
+capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice canaliculato, antennis nigris
+articulis vix biramosis ramis sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta
+utrinque rufotestacea, scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis
+apice obtusis dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo
+micante, abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris.
+
+Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as long as its
+wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this genus with
+Distichocera.
+
+79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5.
+
+Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as to make me
+hesitate in placing it in the genus.
+
+80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2.
+
+Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific description as
+given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the European insect, and
+has eight obsolete white spots disposed in two parallel bands on the back
+of the elytra.
+
+81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore testaceo,
+antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel potius punctis
+confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis
+apice deflexis lineis duabus elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis
+pulcherrime erosis sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque
+tomentosis.
+
+Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis litura inter
+lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus nigropiceis.
+
+82. Callidium solandri.
+Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118.
+Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97.
+
+Obs. I place Olivier's Synonym in this case first; because the Fabrician
+description is so erroneous, that did we not know the original insect in
+the Banksian Collection, there would be no possibility of making it out.
+
+83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306, 8.
+
+Obs. This and the three following species belong to the Stenochori
+Callidiiformes of Schonnher.
+
+84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus capite punctato,
+antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et sexto apice spinosis,
+ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice ciliatis membranaceis, palpis
+securiformibus, thorace obscuro utrinque unispinoso margine antico
+tuberculisque dorsalibus utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris,
+scutello rubro; elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin
+inter lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice
+bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus rubris.
+
+85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite angusto, labro
+palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace inaequaliter rugoso
+eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis utrinque inconspicuis,
+elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis interstitiisque punctatis macula
+media suturali testacea antice subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis
+articulis apice haud spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus
+incrassatis.
+
+86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum articulis duobus
+primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque nigris, thorace subcylindrico
+utrinque unidentato supra quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus,
+elytris apice flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium
+subviolaceo-flava linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque
+flavo-testaceis.
+
+87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112.
+Cerambyx abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth.
+Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472.
+
+Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby's Leptura ceramboides, and perfectly
+agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx abbreviatus, except
+that no mention is there made of its mouth being yellow. Mr. Kirby says
+of this insect, "a habitu Lepturae omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior,"
+and certainly were it allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would
+seem to connect those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which
+have bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis, Fab.)
+with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But, however this may
+be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the Cerambycidae, and agrees with
+the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has the antennae inserted between the
+eyes.
+
+88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis articulo
+basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque cylindrico constricto
+subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis lineis quatuor elevatis.
+
+89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234.
+L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5.
+
+90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234.
+
+91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124.
+
+92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis apicem
+versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro bilineato, thorace
+obscuro cinereo inaequali postice subcanaliculato medio utrinque
+tuberculato, elytris obscuris fasciculis minutis nigris flavis
+cinereisque variegatis, fascia media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata
+humeros versus.
+
+93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 291, table
+25. figure 4.
+
+94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table 24.
+figure 1.
+
+95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table
+24. figure 2.
+
+96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 287, table
+24. figure 6.
+
+Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N. reticulata.
+
+97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286, table 24.
+figure 3.
+
+98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea antennis piceis,
+scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura maculisque duabus
+dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem striis punctorum
+subtilissime impressis.
+
+99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289. table 24.
+figure 10.
+
+100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 294. table
+25. figure 10.
+
+101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis quatuor utrinque
+inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes in lineam transversam
+dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris testaceis nigro-variis striatis
+striis punctatis, corpore subtus pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis
+valde incrassatis.
+
+Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela 14-punctata, Fab.,
+and other Asiatic insects of this type, which have been separated from
+Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides Entomologicae, under the name of
+Podontia.
+
+102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21. Chrysomela
+cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85.
+
+103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis scutello
+pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali, thorace macula
+posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis duabus anticis cruceque
+apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus atro-cyaneo limbo rufo.
+
+Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes of
+Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it.
+
+104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101.
+Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2.
+
+105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12.
+
+106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55.
+Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra.
+
+107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44.
+Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17.
+
+108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace medio maculis
+quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque posticis rotundatis,
+elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis humeralibus duobus alioque media
+marginali.
+
+Order ORTHOPTERA.
+
+109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata, ferrugineo-fusca thorace
+suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus laterali et posticali lunulisque
+utrinque duabus paulisper impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum
+lata alba transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis
+carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum desinentibus.
+
+Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the abdomen.
+
+110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud tripla
+longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata excepta
+longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, elytris
+thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis dilute viridibus margine
+externo maculaque media elevata flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute
+ferrugineis margine antico apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis
+denticulatis margine interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis
+transversis in dentes desinentibus.
+
+111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo longiore
+quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta longitrorsum
+carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud denticulatis, elytris
+thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus acuminatis antice viridibus
+margine flavescente postice subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus
+crassiore, aiis apice acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio
+nigro punctis hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata.
+
+Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.
+
+Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas
+Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.
+
+112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo, subcinereo-fusco
+lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis elytris longiore, his
+nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis maculaque in marginis antici medio
+magna alba, alis membranaceis nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice
+coriaceis ad basin rubris nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus
+testaceo maculatis, pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo
+inferiori dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis.
+
+Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now for the
+first time described, although it seems to be not uncommon in New South
+Wales. Although much larger, it comes very near to the P. Gigas of
+Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs to Lichtenstein's division, thus
+characterized, "Alata elytris alisque in utroque sexu."
+
+113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum longo
+cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa coronato, thorace
+antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice dilatato convexiori
+marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine antice cylindrico medio
+valde dilatato margine dentato et in processum segmentorum trium linearem
+desinente segmentis supra binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis,
+elytris viridibus subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus;
+pedibus viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato,
+superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori dilatato
+rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine denticulatis,
+femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem versus
+subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis dentatis exteriori
+valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4.
+
+Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this rare insect,
+in order to afford as much information as possible to the naturalist, who
+may be inclined to investigate the natural arrangement of the Phasmina.
+
+114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano lateribus
+perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis brevioribus
+lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad medium impressis alis
+hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus.
+
+Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a Javanese
+insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is marked at the
+angles with yellow.
+
+115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25.
+
+116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis filiformibus
+nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis fusco-hyalinis, thoracis
+lateribus postice testaceis, corpore subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis
+posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus rufis apicibus nigris.
+
+Order NEUROPTERA.
+
+117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis hyalinis stigmate
+fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi flavescentibus.
+
+118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9.
+
+119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8.
+
+120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus albescens pedibus
+nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad marginem apicalem alba.
+
+121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque subtus
+albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis abdominalibus nigro
+alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate fusco.
+
+Order HYMENOPTERA.
+
+122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1.
+
+Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a variety of the
+common European insect.
+
+123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9.
+
+124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1.
+
+125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2.
+
+126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis segmentis
+apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus.
+
+127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts.
+Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1.
+
+128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10.
+
+129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter alas
+segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis flavis apice
+fuscis.
+
+130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19.
+
+CLASS HAUSTELLATA.
+
+Order LEPIDOPTERA.
+
+131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49.
+Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61.
+
+Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New Holland,
+which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P. eurypilus, a species
+hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and Amboyna. This variety is
+distinguished from the euripilus of Godart by several minute differences.
+
+132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47. 65.
+
+133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis posticis
+dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali rufo lunulae
+caeruleae submisso.
+
+Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in Africa, and epius
+in India. It is even difficult to determine whether the three may not be
+varieties of one species. If varieties, however, they are certainly
+permanent according to the above localities, and this species may be
+easily distinguished from epius, which it most resembles, by the large
+yellow spot near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing.
+This spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the band
+of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one small spot.
+
+134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis
+griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata lunula media
+nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis ocellis tot rufis
+submissis.
+
+Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to have a
+relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is
+orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper wings are
+slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked with white spots.
+There are three grey spots in the middle of the superior margin of the
+wing, of which the largest is the one nearest to the body; on the outside
+of these are two parallel rows of grey spots, the first range consisting
+of about nine oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight
+smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower wings,
+which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in the middle; and
+on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots, the one blue and the
+other red, The emarginations of these wings are fringed with white. The
+underside of this insect is like the upper, except that the colours are
+more pronounced, and that there are two round white spots on the outside
+of the white band of the lower wings.
+
+135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76. 145.
+
+136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146.
+
+137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis apice
+punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus flavo-irroratis.
+P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.
+
+Obs. This insect is of Godart's fifth size, and comes very near to his
+Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour, particularly the
+upper. These have their summit black, and a minute black point, near the
+middle. The under wings are without any spots, but are bordered behind by
+a cinereous thread. The underside of the upper wings have the costa and
+summit covered with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish
+colour. The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine
+undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour.
+
+The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson Croker,
+Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty.
+
+138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro; anticis macula
+media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis subtus nigro-venosis
+limbi maculis luteo-notatis.
+
+Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart and
+Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however, smaller than that
+insect. The upper wings are white, with a posterior broad black
+subtriangular border, having two or three white spots at the apex. These
+wings have a black spot near their middle, which is also on the
+underside, but there communicates by a transverse, short, and rather
+curved, black band, with a black superior edging of the wing. In other
+respects the underside of the superior wings is like the upper, except
+perhaps that it is yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their
+upper side white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly
+veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer row of
+white spots in the posterior margin of the wing yellowish.
+
+139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo exteriori
+utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis apicalibus quatuor
+albis.
+
+Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its wings are
+white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish, and a triangular
+border at their extremity rather dentated on the inside. On this black
+border is a transverse row of four or five white spots, unequal in size.
+The lower wings have also a black border with one white spot, and which
+is simply crenated on the inside. The underside of the four wings
+scarcely differs from the upper, except that the black borders above
+mentioned are in general more pale, and those of the lower wings are
+broader than on the upper side.
+
+140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606.
+P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118.
+P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ?
+
+Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in the
+Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora of Donovan,
+the only difference being that the under wings are less cinereous on the
+upper side, and the upper wings have more white at the extremity of the
+yellow spots at the base of their undersides. These minute differences
+appear to be sexual. At all events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of
+Donovan, in his Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most
+erroneously quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India,
+and gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some
+Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has also
+erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa, and thus added
+to the multitude of proofs which his laborious work affords, that the
+continental entomologists have no means of undertaking a complete
+description of species, without visiting the extensive collections of
+London.
+
+141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149. 108.
+
+142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153. 121.
+
+143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56.
+
+Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan's work on the Insects of India,
+instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to think that he
+never saw those works.
+
+144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis flavis, anticis
+apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis subtus testaceis atomis
+griseis aspersis.
+
+Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it extremely in
+its upper side. The underside, however, is different, as the extremity of
+the upper wings and the whole of the under wings are of a fawn colour.
+The underside of the lower wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms,
+and marked obscurely with a fuscous band under two points.
+
+145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88.
+
+Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from New Holland,
+which only differs from the European specimen figured by Hubner, in the
+row of white points round the edge of the upper side of the lower wings
+being evanescent. This species is one of those which have a great range
+of distribution, being found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and
+New Holland.
+
+146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182. 21.
+
+147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus fusco alis
+repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum punctis ad basin
+maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus anticarum apice posticarumque
+pagina omni, olivaceo-fuscescentibus.
+
+Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace, of Godart
+and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as well as in Java
+and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as any thing but a variety of
+that species. It differs, however, in being constantly of a smaller size,
+in its abdomen being black, and in the exterior row of white spots on the
+under wings not extending much more than half way round the margin of
+these wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on
+various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape Cleveland.
+See volume 1.
+
+148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123.
+
+Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M. Latreille's
+genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their males; and to the
+remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of Euplaea.
+
+149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis
+caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra punctorum seriem
+marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo costali.
+
+Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS.
+
+Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it appears to come
+very near. The upper side of the four wings is brownish-black, having
+towards the margin an arched band of violet-coloured white spots, of
+which the greatest is at the extremity of the wing. There is also on the
+superior margin, about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and
+at its inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper
+side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal points on
+the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured whitish lunulae. The
+underside answers well to the description given by Godart of the
+underside of his Danais eunice, except that D. darchia has only one white
+point in the middle of the upper wing.
+
+This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas
+Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.
+
+150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis
+caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis duabus
+angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis extimum versus
+majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali et macularum
+longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis.
+
+Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and his D.
+coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal series of white
+points continued to the very tip of the upper wings, while they have
+three other points in the disc. There are also eight or nine similar
+white points between the base of the lower wings and the band of
+longitudinal spots.
+
+151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155.
+
+152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57.
+
+153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62.
+
+154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3.
+
+155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72.
+
+156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80.
+
+157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81.
+
+158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17.
+
+159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18.
+
+160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564.
+A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9.
+
+Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian cabinet, and
+affords further cause of regret, that the article "Papillon," of the
+Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been undertaken by a person who had
+not studied the classical collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart
+describes this insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and
+makes it an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa.
+
+161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13.
+
+Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native of Java,
+but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of it on the North
+Coast of New Holland.
+
+162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis; anticis fascia
+maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem versus subviridibus
+aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali ovali sulphurea abbreviata,
+caudata corporis fascia media sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis.
+
+Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford Raffles, to
+whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions in Java and Sumatra,
+every Naturalist must feel himself indebted.
+
+The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the only
+difference being, that round the whole disc of the four wings there runs
+a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and feet are black, and the
+breast whitish. The vivid colour of the yellow spots on the velvety black
+of the wings distinguish it at once from every known species.
+
+163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4.
+Var. alis atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis
+cupreo-viridibus, unica lata.
+
+Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as peculiar
+to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers, flitting among a grove
+of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of a stream near the extremity of
+Cape Grafton, upon the North-east Coast of New Holland. See volume 2.
+
+164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15
+-- Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2.
+
+Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years before Dr.
+Leach, his name has the right of priority.
+
+165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis
+griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus nigris
+basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus, inferis
+griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus.
+Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts.
+
+Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a yellowish-gray
+colour, traversed by a line of blackish points, which indeed are
+dispersed very generally over the whole surface. The disk of the upper
+wings is rather blacker than the rest. The head and thorax are of the
+colour of the wings, their sides and the conical abdomen being rather
+lighter. The antennae are ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath.
+
+166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media longitudinali
+guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis integris; superis
+griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus nigris punctoque medio albo,
+inferis griseo-flavescentibus fasciis tribus nigris.
+Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy manuscripts.
+
+Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe being
+alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a narrow, tawny,
+transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black curved marks, and on
+the hinder part a black spot. The body beneath is of a whitish colour.
+
+167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque viridibus, abdomine
+nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris hyalinis subtus ad originem
+flavis, superis basin versus brunneis pilis viridescentibus obtectis
+costa limboque posteriori brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque
+internum brunneo-viridescentibus.
+Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts.
+
+Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very slender at
+the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi are greenish above
+and white beneath. The breast is white in the middle, and yellow at the
+sides. The two first segments of the abdomen are, on the upper side, gray
+in the middle, and yellow on the sides; the third segment is black, with
+a part of the anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth
+segment is entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior
+edge; the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black;
+the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is terminated
+by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base, and black at the
+extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the tibiae and tarsi yellow.
+
+168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland.
+
+169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite nigro
+bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis quatuor et
+postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis ad basin albis
+punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus mediis hyalinis,
+abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus duplici serie punctorum
+nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis.
+Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
+
+Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at sea, has
+been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker, Esquire, M.P., and
+First Secretary of the Admiralty.
+
+170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior, alis
+superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque marginalibus obscuris
+fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus lineola fusca terminata, ad
+marginem externum dilatata, limbo punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus
+fascia alba, posteris supra apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque
+tribus marginalibus albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine
+nigro punctato.
+
+Order HOMOPTERA.
+
+171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+
+172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc macularum
+fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine atro fascia
+antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis basalibus subviridibus,
+elytris hyalinis costis viridibus pedibusque testaceis.
+
+Order HEMIPTERA.
+
+173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+
+Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think it to be
+the same species with the following S. cyanipes, Fab.
+
+174. Scutellera cyanipes.
+Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23.
+
+175. Scutellera imperialis.
+Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1.
+
+176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea verticali nigra
+thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula transversa rubra, corpore
+subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus auratis abdominis lateribus rubris
+anoque viridi, pedibus rubris tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis.
+
+177. Scutellera pagana.
+Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29.
+
+178. Pentatoma caelebs.
+Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119.
+
+179. Pentatoma elegans.
+Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+
+180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris, thorace
+flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse notato, scutello
+nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque apicali membranacea nigris,
+corpore subtus fulvo lateribus albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis.
+
+Order DIPTERA.
+
+181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa, post-scutello
+flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin versus duabus
+viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis.
+Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
+
+Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr. James Hunter,
+the surgeon of the Mermaid.
+
+182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad basin pilis
+flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice obscurioribus, pedibus rufis
+geniculis tarsisque nigris.
+
+183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+
+184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus albescens,
+alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea media maculisque
+quatuor utrinque cinereis.
+
+185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea nitida,
+abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice margineque exteriori
+saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis obscuris marginalibus.
+Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
+
+Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe, R.N.; one
+of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition.
+
+186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis flavescentibus
+tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus nigris, alis
+brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus apice albis.
+
+187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus post-scutello
+ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice albo fasciaque media
+fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis alis hyalinis basi margineque
+exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot discoidalibus.
+
+188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
+
+Class ARACHNIDA.
+
+189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo, geniculis
+incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et postremo pari
+flavo-annulatis.
+Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
+
+Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the expedition.
+
+Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from Epeira by
+Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany.
+
+190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum pari
+secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis.
+
+191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis pedibusque
+apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano, pedum secundo pari
+longiori.
+
+Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus Linyphia, as
+characterized by Latreille, consists in the circumstance of the two
+largest of the four middle eyes being the posterior ones. The palpi of
+the male are in this species each provided with a spiral screw resembling
+the tendril of a vine.
+
+192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis longioribus,
+cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna viridifusca, pedibus
+sub-geminatim fusco maculatis.
+
+...
+
+CIRRIPEDES.
+
+Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825.
+Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach.
+Montague, Test. Brit.
+
+...
+
+RADIATA.
+
+CENTRONIA.
+
+1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48.
+
+This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with the short
+description given by Lamarck of this species.
+
+2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47.
+
+This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one found by
+Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area agrulate and
+ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly as large as those in
+the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper part are not perforated, and
+are placed in segments of circles round small tubercles.
+
+3. Echinometra lucunter.
+Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176.
+Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7.
+
+ANOMALIA.
+
+Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481.
+Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1.
+
+No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King observes, that
+the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing, differed from Lesueur's
+figure of P. megalista, in being of smaller size, and with fewer tints;
+the colour of the tentacula was a brighter purple tipped with yellow
+globules, and the crest of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the
+animal was purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length.
+Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista.
+
+Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485.
+Icon. Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6.
+
+A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal was made by
+Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur's figure is also very correctly drawn.
+
+ACRITA.
+
+ZOOPHYTA.
+
+1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2 209.
+Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27.
+
+According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished with
+green-fringed tentacula.
+
+2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239.
+Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289.
+Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44.
+
+3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255.
+Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43.
+
+4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243.
+Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2.
+
+5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236.
+Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6.
+
+6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237.
+Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5.
+
+7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235.
+
+8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228.
+Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82.
+
+9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271.
+Icon. --
+
+10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270.
+Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1.
+
+11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261.
+Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4.
+
+Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not perforate.
+
+12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281.
+Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.
+
+13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280.
+Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.
+
+14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282.
+Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336.
+Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2.
+
+15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280.
+
+16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279.
+Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54.
+
+17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279.
+
+18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280.
+
+19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809.
+Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A.
+
+20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux.
+Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114.
+Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4.
+
+21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74.
+Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2.
+
+22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78.
+Icon. --
+
+23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371. Number 82.
+Icon. -- Esper. 2 t. 25.
+
+24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number l26.
+Icon. -- Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28.
+
+25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106.
+Icon. --
+
+Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home, which I have
+not been able to identify with all of Lamarck's descriptions, or with any
+figures; but as this author has described many species from the
+collection of Peron and Lesueur, which have not hitherto been figured, I
+have not considered them as new, until I have had an opportunity of
+examining more New Holland species, and of seeing those described by
+Lamarck.
+
+...
+
+
+MOLLUSCA.
+
+BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S.
+
+1. CONCHOPHORA.
+
+1. Solenomya australis.
+Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489.
+Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur.
+
+2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20.
+Icon. --
+
+This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of a shell
+agreeing with the short specific character given by Lamarck of the above;
+but as it has not been figured, I have referred to it with a mark of
+doubt. The shells are rather solid, white, or white variegated with
+purple, with numerous concentric wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer
+the margin; the umbones, covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly
+smooth and polished, with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the
+disk and posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes
+distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly sulcated;
+length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch.
+
+3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477.
+
+This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the anterior
+slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior only marked by a
+raised line in the periostraca. The shell is thin, white; with a pale
+brown and deeply grooved escutcheon.
+
+4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch.
+Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7.
+Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451.
+Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1.
+
+5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5.
+Icon. --
+
+The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones; the rose
+colour is often extended down the centre of the shell, forming concentric
+zones.
+
+6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541.
+Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241.
+Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129.
+
+7. Venerupis galactites, nob.
+Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599.
+Icon. --
+
+The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this shell, which a
+modern conchologist has considered as a variety of Venerupis perforans,
+shows the very great affinity that exists between those genera.
+
+8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605.
+Icon. --
+
+This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct, concentric
+ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones smooth, polished,
+orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple; the inside golden-yellow;
+the anterior and posterior dorsal margins purple.
+
+9. Venus tessellata (n.s.)
+Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta; sulcis
+concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus integerrimis.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square purple spots,
+forming regular lines, with the points directed toward the back of the
+shell; covered with many distinct, nearly equal, concentric, smooth
+ridges; the front part of the ridges somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part
+distinctly lamellar and much elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate;
+the edge quite entire; umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except
+on the anterior and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length
+eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch.
+
+There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum which do not
+agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these being fourteen-tenths
+of an inch long, and one inch high, is double the size of Captain King's
+specimen; its habitation is not marked, but the other specimen is from
+Ceylon.
+
+10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.)
+Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata, radiata,
+radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus albida.
+
+Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker brown rays,
+each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones white, the edge quite
+entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped, obscurely defined, the centre
+rather prominent; inside white, the hinge margin rather broad.
+
+This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in its
+markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular. The specimen
+given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch long, and eight-tenths
+of an inch high; but there is another specimen in the collection, from
+the Tankerville cabinet (Number 288) which is twice that size.
+
+11. Cytherea gibba.
+Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577.
+Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416.
+
+12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague.
+
+This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the Cardium
+rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found imbedded in the seaweed
+and spongy-like substance that covers the Tridacna squamosa.
+
+13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95.
+
+This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides.
+
+14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105.
+Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299.
+Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1.
+
+15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54.
+
+16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42.
+Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1. a, b.
+
+17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120.
+
+This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland specimens, that
+were probably collected by Peron in Baudin's voyage. It is remarkable for
+being very thick and solid, and of a fine dark colour, with only a narrow
+white band on the anterior basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the
+muscular impressions are very distinct, and raised above the surface,
+particularly that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and
+tubercular.
+
+18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob.
+Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111.
+
+This Australian species will most probably prove to be distinct from the
+American kind; but the specimen before me does not afford sufficient
+materials to separate it, since there is only one water-worn valve in the
+collection. It is not so distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is
+entirely of a brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal
+edge.
+
+19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob.
+Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116.
+Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b.
+
+20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152.
+
+This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the Gulf of
+Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not easy to describe.
+The specimens before me, which are small, differ materially from some of
+the same size among the American species. The outside is of a dull
+greenish-purple colour, with a few distant membranaceous laminae which
+are only slightly lobed, and not extended into long processes like those
+of Avicula radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the
+American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow tinge.
+
+21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192.
+Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191. f. 5.
+
+22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163.
+Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315.
+Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1. a, b.
+
+The shell before me is probably distinct from the above species, but is
+too much worn down to be separated from it; in its present state it seems
+to agree tolerably well with the species to which it has been referred.
+
+23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174.
+
+This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and Lesueur on
+the coast of Van Diemen's Land.
+
+24. Lima minuta (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata, costis
+transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine crenato.
+
+This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea sounding-lead, being
+only one-sixth of an inch long, and one-fourth high, is the smallest
+species of the genus. It is white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at
+the ends; the surface is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are
+concentrically rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated
+appearance; the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small
+distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin, which is
+straight.
+
+25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133.
+Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234.
+Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ?
+
+The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of this species
+with the anterior end uncurved, which has most probably been caused by
+some injury on the anterior basal edge.
+
+The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat, and purplish
+rays.
+
+
+2. COCHLEOPHORA.
+
+26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18.
+Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b.
+Inhab. South-west Coast.
+
+Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by Peron.
+
+27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18.
+
+28. Monodonta conica (n.s.)
+
+Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata, rufa;
+costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura sulcata.
+Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.
+
+Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl flattened with
+six spiral raised substriae, which are transversely divided into blackish
+purple beads with white interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base,
+rather convex, axis imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside
+furrowed; the base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and
+distinct groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths,
+diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to be
+uncommon on the coast of Australia.
+
+29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.)
+
+Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata, spiraliter
+papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi; infima facie
+papillata, apertura sulcata.
+
+Inhab. Mus. Brit.
+
+Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white, generally
+concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated spiral ribs, the
+ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all the other whorls rather
+distant, and forming four series; those of the under part rather closer,
+and smaller. The axis unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the
+outer lips furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base,
+axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch.
+
+30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.)
+Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata, spiraliter
+sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato.
+
+Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.
+
+Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows of white and
+brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly granulated; the sutures
+distinct, impressed, the lower part of the last whorl nearly smooth, the
+umbilicus white, smooth inside, the edge furnished with a series of
+granules. The mouth subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge,
+the columella lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little
+roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter five-twelfths of
+an inch.
+
+31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36.
+
+32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa, labro
+duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo.
+
+Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.
+
+Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly, concentrically
+striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where eroded, purple; the whorls
+convex, suture distinct, sometimes occupying an impressed line on the
+lower whorl; the base rather convex, the aperture roundish, the axis
+(imperforate) covered with a white callus, which leaves a slight
+concavity over its end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part
+purple or green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque,
+white, and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is
+frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a purple
+spot.
+
+33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.)
+
+Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et concentrice
+costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa.
+
+Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three, lower with
+seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised, spiral ribs, and
+numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an acute tubercle where it
+crosses the spiral ridges, the suture deeply impressed, very distinct,
+the aperture nearly orbicular, the outer lip denticulated on its outer
+edge, inner lip smooth, column without any perforation, only a slight
+linear cavity behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of
+an inch.
+
+This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata, Lin.) in its
+general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is white and ribbed like
+Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R. calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus
+of Montague.
+
+34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.)
+
+Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter sub-striata rufo
+variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis infra convexis, umbilico
+pervio edentulo.
+
+Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five spirally
+striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with numerous diverging
+red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right angles with the upper edge,
+white, with a convex thread-like rib round its base, which is distantly
+articulated; base of the whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated
+with white; axis conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement;
+aperture subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth
+at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third, of an
+inch.
+
+35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42.
+Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796.
+
+36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40.
+Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B.
+
+37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b. c.
+Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52.
+Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490.
+Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034.
+
+38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.)
+
+Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida opaca et
+fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde convexis.
+
+Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated with spiral
+opaque white intercepted striae and several transverse scarlet bands
+formed of oblique lines; axis, imperforated, one-sixth, diameter
+one-eighth, of an inch.
+
+This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of Montague, but the
+whorls are more convex, and it is rather differently marked.
+
+39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228.
+Icon. --
+
+40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.)
+
+Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata, costis albis
+tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus, anfractibus contiguis.
+
+Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow central
+spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth, with numerous close
+oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged cross ribs; axis umbilicated;
+umbilicus narrow; mouth small, ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths,
+diameter one-fourth of an inch.
+
+This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo principalis of
+Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell before me is most
+probably a young specimen.
+
+41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230.
+Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45.
+
+This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the entrance
+of Prince Regent's River, on the North-west Coast.
+
+42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191.
+Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955.
+
+43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683.
+Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945.
+
+44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197.
+Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672.
+Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a. b.
+
+45. Natica alba, n.
+Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923.
+
+46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198.
+Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931.
+
+47. Littorina australis (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata, spira acuta,
+fauce livida.
+
+Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous impressed
+spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather convex, last slightly
+angular, the columella lip purplish-brown; axis solid, with a lunate
+concavity behind the usual situation of the umbilicus.
+
+48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata, anfractibus
+convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea unifasciata.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric ridges,
+and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves; white or
+purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last one slightly
+angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or purplish-black with a
+distinct broad white spiral band just below the slight external keel;
+inner lip purple with a deep concavity behind it; spire acute half the
+length of the shell; axis 8/12, diameter 6/12, of an inch.
+
+This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the Trochus zigzag
+of Montague, but is all of one colour externally and has a much shorter
+spire.
+
+49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7 66.
+Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50. f. 13.
+14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472.
+
+50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7 67.
+Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442. f. 1. a,
+b.
+
+51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug.
+Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ?
+
+52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33.
+
+A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home, but when a
+more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be distinct from it.
+
+53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77.
+
+54. Nassa fasciata, n.
+Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271.
+
+55. Nassa suturalis, n.
+Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ?
+
+56. Nassa mutabilis, n.
+Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269.
+Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t. 188. f.
+1810, 1811.
+
+57. Nassa livida (n.s.)
+Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter striata
+purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus convexiusculis,
+sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato intus sulcato.
+
+Icon. --
+
+Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two central,
+obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely plaited, the rest
+smooth, livid, except at the front part of the last, just over the
+groove, where it is spirally striated; the suture distinct (not
+channelled) marked by a white line; the inner lip distinct, raised, the
+outer thickened on the outer side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat
+fulvous-brown; axis one inch, diameter half an inch.
+
+This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps form a
+distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella, characterized by
+the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly allied to N. olivacea, n.
+(Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N. canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum,
+Lam.)
+
+58. Clavatula striata (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter
+sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum margine
+superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce sulcata.
+
+Icon. --
+
+Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve longitudinal
+interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the centre of the whorls; the
+whorls with distant impressed spiral lines near the suture, with a rather
+flattened slightly nodulose band; the mouth rather more than one-third
+the length of the shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with
+a linear depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter
+four-twelfths of an inch.
+
+59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226.
+
+A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is entirely
+smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire slightly concave,
+edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous line, the outer lip is very
+thick, grooved on its inner edge, and the columella is distinctly
+plaited.
+
+It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this genus are
+so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to increase the number of
+the already too much extended lists of Lamarck and others.
+
+60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220.
+Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13.
+Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473.
+Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2 t. 34.
+f. 353. 354.
+
+61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261.
+Icon. --
+
+62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238.
+Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483.
+Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964, 965.
+
+63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162.
+Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105. f. 990,
+991.
+
+This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck, except that
+the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red colour.
+
+64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n.
+Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189.
+Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6.
+
+65. Tritonium australe, n.
+Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179.
+Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11.
+Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868.
+
+66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150.
+Icon. --
+
+This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the varices, like
+it, neither form a complete series, nor are they alternate, so that it
+does not agree exactly with the characters of either genus.
+
+67. Fusus verrucosus, n.
+Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557.
+Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356.
+
+68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480.
+Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6.
+
+69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1 460.
+Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9.
+
+70. Conus maurus (n.s.)
+Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira subdepressa
+mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis notata.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two brown bands;
+spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the epidermis pale
+greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad blue bands, in the front
+of which is enclosed the canal; axis one and a half, diameter one inch.
+
+71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7 378. Gray,
+Zool. Journal 1 76.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328. Ency. Meth.
+t. 352 f. 1, 2.
+
+72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382. Gray,
+Zool. Journal 1 367.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234. Ency.
+Meth. t. 353. f. 3.
+
+The shells of this species that are found on the North-east Coast of
+Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only scattered
+markings.
+
+73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7 377. Gray,
+Zool. Jour. 1 79.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319. Ency.
+Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b.
+
+74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388. Oray, Zool.
+Journal 1 151.
+Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402.
+Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231. Ency.
+Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b.
+
+75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402. Gray, Zool.
+Journal 1 494.
+Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 7.
+
+76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493.
+Icon. --
+
+77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, Zool.
+Journal 1 492.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338. Ency.
+Meth. t. 356. f. 3.
+
+78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1 385.
+Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411.
+Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392.
+Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21.
+
+79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406. Lam. Hist.
+7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495.
+Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33. f. 316.
+Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4.
+
+80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7 394. Gray,
+Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n. 41.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225. Ency.
+Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b.
+
+81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam. Hist. 7 398.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f. 326, 327.
+Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13.
+
+82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam. Hist. 7
+400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515.
+Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3.
+
+83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306, 307.
+
+84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404.
+Icon. --
+
+85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79.
+
+A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description excepting in
+having five instead of three or four plaits on the columella, was brought
+up by the sounding line. The shell is longitudinally grooved, and very
+remarkable for being furnished with numerous, rather distant, smooth,
+narrow, raised spiral bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally
+striated; the nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary.
+
+86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314.
+Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452.
+Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429.
+
+Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the authority of
+Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the shell before me;
+excepting that the spots round the suture form nearly a continual band at
+a little distance from it; the outer lip is smooth and thin; the inside
+dull livid brown; the axis is fourteen-twelfths, the diameter
+seven-twelfths, of an inch.
+
+87. Marginella minuta (n.s.)
+Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea obtusiuscula,
+labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly as long as
+the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat inflexed; columella with
+four distinct plaits; axis three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an
+inch.
+
+88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210.
+Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519.
+Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet. Einl. in
+Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a. b.
+
+89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f. 803-806.
+
+90. Strombus australis (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida
+fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato posterius
+lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?) sulcato.
+Icon. -- ?
+
+Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with pale,
+fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as the shell;
+the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more prominent than the rest,
+the one nearest the suture being acute and tuberculated; the canal
+recurved; the outer lip thickened, ending in a projecting lobe behind,
+and edged with two or three blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured,
+furrowed; the inner lip much thickened.
+
+This shell is one of the five species which have been confounded with
+Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S. zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156.
+f. 1485, 1486, in form and throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n.
+Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true
+S. auris dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell
+figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1, 2, which
+I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to be the young of a
+new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 338, 339, and by Seba,
+3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly allied to S. bituberculatus of
+Lamarck.
+
+91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196.
+Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508.
+Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f. 858, 859.
+
+This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10 t. 155. f.
+1478.
+
+92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408.
+Icon. --
+
+This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister. Conch. t. 714.
+f. 72. with which it has been generally confounded; it is of larger size
+and perfectly smooth.
+
+93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida laevis
+concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato.
+Icon. --
+
+The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth, very slightly
+concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not perforated; the aperture
+rather longer than the shell; the inner lip slightly reflexed; axis
+five-twelfths, diameter three-twelfths of an inch.
+
+94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.)
+Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208.
+Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154.
+
+95. Hipponix listeri (n.)
+Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29.
+
+This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal is evidently
+not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not always) a shelly
+support, but corrodes the surface of the shell to which it is attached,
+so as to form a more flat attachment, and to leave a lunate convex rib
+instead of the lunate muscular impression which is observed on those
+specimens or individuals which have a shelly base.
+
+96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275.
+Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen.
+Patella japonica, Donovan.
+Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79.
+
+97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414.
+Icon.
+
+The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular concentric
+lines, smooth except near the suture where it is slightly wrinkled;
+whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate, about half as long as the
+shell; peristome thin (perhaps not formed); perforation covered with a
+white even lip, surrounded by a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown.
+
+This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third's Sound, in
+the vicinity of Bald Head.
+
+98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.)
+
+Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida fasciis binis
+fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5 convexis concentrice
+sulcatis.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown bands on
+each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the other, placed on the
+middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five; convex rounded, with numerous
+close concentric furrows; axis umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow,
+deep; aperture rather more than one half the length of the shell;
+peristome (not formed ?) simple.
+
+99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.)
+
+Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro laevi.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous small
+tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal ligament smooth,
+bald.
+
+100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179.
+Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913.
+
+101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100.
+Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917.
+
+When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the figure
+above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately striated.
+
+102. Patella neglecta (n.)
+Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel.
+Icon. Sow. Gen. f.
+
+When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have lived in deep
+water, where their surface has not been broken by the shingle, or
+corroded, or covered with coralloid incrustations, they are regularly
+radiately ribbed; the ribs are covered with narrow intermediate grooves,
+marked with a black spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is
+permanent through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is
+pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression. In the
+older specimens the central disk is often of a pure opaque-white, and the
+muscular impressions round the inner edge of the shell are both pellucid
+brownish-white; length four inches, breadth three, height two inches.
+
+This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the Third's
+Sound.
+
+In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species of this
+genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great confusion in which
+the various species of Patella are involved, I do not venture to describe
+it as a new shell, although there has not been any hitherto described to
+which, in its present state, it can with any certainty be referred. It is
+conical, convex, with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs
+alternately increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad,
+with irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to be
+caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer coat; the
+inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge sinuated and furnished
+with grooves under the larger ribs.
+
+103. Haliotis roei (n.s.)
+
+Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter sulcata intus
+argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or brownish, regular;
+closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and irregularly and roughly
+concentrically striated and plaited; the row of perforations is rather
+prominent, and pierced with six or seven moderate-sized, slightly
+tubular, holes; the inside is iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and
+exhibits two distinct whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened,
+outer lip rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about
+one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and consists of
+three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge.
+
+This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been named after
+Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the expedition.
+
+It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f. 1604, but
+differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly ribbed.
+
+104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata spiraliter
+striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula,
+foraminibus parvis.
+Icon. --
+
+Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very slightly
+concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly, spirally,
+striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated, pierced with eight
+or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the spire rather prominent, apex
+placed about one-fourth of the breadth of the shell from the sutural
+angle on the outer lip, consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge;
+the inside expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl;
+the columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin,
+truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about one-third
+the length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip: length six
+inches, breadth five.
+
+This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after Mr. Allan
+Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage.
+
+This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is quite distinct
+from it.
+
+105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.)
+
+Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens spiraliter
+costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce margaritacea, spira retusa.
+Icon.
+
+Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose, plaited and
+spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and furnished with
+numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of perforations scarcely
+round contains ten or twelve rather large holes; the spire slightly
+raised, very near the edge, consisting of two or three very
+rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside concave, showing the external ribs,
+reddish pearly; the columella lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip
+thin, strait, or cut out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the
+length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two,
+breadth one inch and a quarter.
+
+This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and curved
+lower face, as well as its outer surface.
+
+106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256.
+Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139.
+
+107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115.
+Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66.
+Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218.
+Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c.
+
+This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three inches and
+a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest Island, on the West
+Coast.
+
+PTEROPODA.
+
+108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim.
+Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.
+Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246.
+Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578.
+
+Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net in the
+Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland to Mauritius.
+
+109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.
+
+Two or three species of this shell were presented to the Museum by Mr.
+Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved to be very distinct
+from J. fragilis, from the description of its float by Dr. Coates in the
+transactions of the Society of Natural Science of Philadelphia. See
+Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page 385.
+
+110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286.
+Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059.
+Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124.
+Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus. 4 t.
+59. Anatomy.
+
+CEPHALOPODA.
+
+111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102.
+Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b.
+Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601.
+Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163.
+Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371.
+Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f. 184, 185.
+Ency. Method. ut supra Animal.
+
+Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus, which will
+be taken notice of at a future period, as they require particular
+examination and minute comparison with those found upon the coasts of
+Italy and other parts of Europe.
+
+Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which the
+following numbers refer, have been presented to the British Museum,
+namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46, 48, 90, 91, 92,
+94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103.
+
+...
+
+
+A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF TERRA
+AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN SHORES.
+
+BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM, COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW.
+
+It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a colonial
+vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South Wales, for the
+purpose of exploring the whole of the North-western Coasts of New
+Holland, and that portion of the North Coast, not seen by that able
+navigator, the late Captain Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was
+thereby afforded for a partial examination of the plants of those unknown
+shores, with a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge
+of the very interesting Flora of this southern continent.
+
+Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous residence in New
+South Wales, acquainting myself with the characters (and principal
+peculiarities of structure) of many genera of plants absolutely proper to
+Terra Australis; and particularly in that period, throughout the progress
+of a long and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward
+of Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an instruction I
+received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks, on behalf of the
+Government, directing me to place myself under the orders of Captain P.P.
+King, to whom the execution of this important service had been intrusted,
+and to accompany him to those particular coasts, destined for his
+investigation, in order to form and prepare such collections of their
+vegetation, for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as
+circumstances, and the particular season of the year proper for visiting
+those shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants of
+that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking feature in its
+Flora, was moreover essentially improved during our stay at King George's
+Sound on the South-west Coast, previous to our arrival upon the
+North-west Coast, at the commencement of the first voyage of His
+Majesty's cutter the Mermaid.
+
+Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's relation of
+the several voyages, of the opportunities that were afforded me in
+forming my collections of plants, still it appears necessary, in this
+place, to take a general retrospective view of those parts of the coasts
+under examination, whereon my researches were made, adverting, at the
+same time, to the prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants,
+during which it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could
+alone be effected with safety.
+
+During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of the
+North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his examinations,
+in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of the islands of
+Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, and on Malus Island;
+but the results of these several excursions (in some of which ample time
+was afforded me) did by no means answer my expectations; herbaceous
+plants being for the most part dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs
+scarcely bearing fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the
+extreme barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent
+droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, which soon
+afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the North-west Coast
+altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage being employed in the
+examination of certain parts of the North Coast.
+
+We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of September of the
+following year, resuming the survey at its northern extremity, under the
+most flattering views, and with a favourable season for the prosecution
+of that primary object of the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and
+129 degrees, on the parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion
+of the vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long established
+droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing fructification,
+gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port Warrender, and especially in
+Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten days) was nevertheless considerable
+and highly interesting, belonging, however, almost wholly to established
+genera of which Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking
+up of the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his
+examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, returned
+in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from the point at
+which we had left those shores the preceding year. I had very eligible
+opportunities of landing upon the shores of Montagu Sound, Capstan
+Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially at the head of Hunter's River,
+at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening Bay, Port Nelson; at which several
+parts the collections formed were very important, but not extensive.
+
+Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the repair of the
+vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, to the distance of four
+or five miles; but it being at the height of the dry season,
+comparatively few flowering plants were detected, and no herbaceous
+plants of importance. Our prolonged stay there also enabled me to form
+some idea of the Flora of its shores and neighbouring country, from which
+I gathered materials for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour
+River, situated at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite
+shore of the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast,
+together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, towards
+the close of this general notice. Very few new genera were the fruits of
+this third voyage, but many undescribed plants of old genera were
+discovered, and with those that are frequent on the North Coast, and
+tropical shores of New South Wales, some were remarked that were
+originally discovered on the South Coast. The period again arrived, that
+rendered it necessary to depart from the coast, independent of the leaky
+state of our vessel, which materially hastened our return to Port
+Jackson, when the cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage,
+in which the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of
+the line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important
+service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently named the
+Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from Port Jackson, in May,
+1821, to those parts of the coasts then remaining unexplored, at which we
+arrived at the close of July. Our very limited stay on those shores,
+however, was at that season wherein all vegetation was suffering under
+the excess of drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of
+ascertaining the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River,
+Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast explored
+in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that were examined the
+preceding year, at a like season, but under circumstances much more
+favourable. Upon our return to the North-west Coast from the Mauritius,
+early in 1822, the only part visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2
+degrees to the south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening
+at a season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an
+abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally
+discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during the
+Investigator's voyage.
+
+Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen during the
+Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in reference to its vegetable
+productions, and most probably nothing can be here advanced, tending to
+augment our very scanty knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long
+since, through the medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more
+especially by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had
+no opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run
+northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest Island, and
+repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk Hartog's Island, off
+Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every discouragement of season, some
+of the most important portions of its rich vegetation; in many instances,
+however, in very imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general
+features led me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of
+the botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more than
+probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an inference from
+its aspect at widely distant parts.
+
+Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly surveyed
+during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period immediately subsequent to
+the season of the rains, I had very favourable opportunities of
+increasing my collections upon the Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and
+Raffles, Croker's Island, Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van
+Diemen's Gulf; and among many described species, discovered formerly in
+the great Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new
+plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of the
+several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales within the
+tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by Captain Cook,
+entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second voyage; and it was highly
+gratifying to my feelings to reflect that it was reserved for me to
+complete several specimens discovered formerly in imperfect states by
+those eminent naturalists who accompanied the above great
+circumnavigator, in 1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since
+this period of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those
+particular parts of the coast having presented themselves.
+
+The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed during the
+progress of the four voyages under the general circumstances above
+briefly referred to, and which, as constituting a small Herbarium, will
+be thus collectively spoken of in the following remarks, does not exceed
+one thousand three hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five
+hundred and twenty are already described by authors, the other portion
+being in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other coasts
+of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, however,
+mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, there are but few
+species, and of these, or parasitical Orchideae, none have been detected
+in these voyages in addition to those already described: a circumstance,
+that with respect to the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted
+for, from the non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very
+moderate elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of
+character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, which
+constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of almost the whole
+of these tribes): and the consequent general exposure to the sun of those
+arid shores.
+
+Limited in number as the new species really are, they will nevertheless
+constitute, when added to the discoveries recently made, through the
+medium of expeditions to the interior, from the colony of Port Jackson,
+very important materials to carry on that Flora of Australia, so very
+ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since that eminent botanist has already
+advanced much important matter in the valuable essay, published at the
+close of the account of Captain Flinders' voyage, respecting the relative
+proportions of the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far
+as they had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive
+materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its Flora, and
+the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply submit a few
+general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of established natural
+families, that have been discovered in the progress of these voyages;
+closing this paper with some observations, chiefly illustrative of the
+geographical diffusion of several Australian plants known to authors,
+whose localities have hitherto been exceedingly limited.
+
+PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of Terra
+Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes through climates
+favourable for the production of certain genera of this remarkable
+natural family, it is singular that so few of the order should have been
+discovered: a fact in the history of the Australian vegetation, which
+(upon contemplating the natural economy of many other genera of plants)
+can only be considered as accounted for, by the great tendency to drought
+of at least three-fifths of its shores.
+
+To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera that have
+been enumerated in the productions of the Australian Flora, may now be
+added Calamus; of which a species (discovered without fructification, by
+Sir Joseph Banks, during the celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at
+length been detected bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River.
+The existence of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is
+confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the parallels of
+15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range be more extensive, it
+is southerly one or two degrees, in which direction a remarkable primary
+granitic formation of the coast continues, throughout the whole
+neighbourhood of which is a peculiar density of dark moist forest,
+seemingly dependent on it, and evidently indispensable to the life of
+this species of Calamus; but at the termination of this geological
+structure, it most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low
+stature, and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded
+forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees South,
+bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf state of a
+species of that genus, which has lately been observed, with all its
+tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now be recognised as a
+sixth individual of the family whose fructification has been seen.
+
+Although this order has been observed to be sparingly scattered along the
+line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth degree of south latitude,
+its range on the opposite shores of the continent is very limited. Upon
+the North-west Coast, the genus Livistona alone has been remarked, in
+about latitude 15 degrees South; beyond which, throughout a very
+extensive line of depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms
+were seen. If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to
+produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with respect to
+this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes, appearing very
+important) those portions of the western shores recently seen, indicate
+no one character that would justify the supposition of the existence of
+the Palmae in the corresponding extremes of the respective parallels that
+produce them on the opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to
+the economy of this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to
+the coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded
+situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never been
+detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much less in the
+distant country to the westward of that extensive boundary.
+
+ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the Herbarium,
+referred to this family, that were collected upon the East and South-west
+Coasts, are specimens in complete fructification of a remarkable plant of
+arborescent growth, having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits
+of Dracaena. It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline
+of Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has an
+extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for the most
+part been observed within the tropic, it extends nevertheless as far as
+latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants of Asphodeleae remarked on the
+north-western shores, were an imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of
+Mr. Brown, discovered by that gentleman during the Investigator's voyage
+on the South Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in
+latitude fifteen degrees South.
+
+CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that part of
+Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be added some important
+facts, to be gathered from the plants in the Herbarium of the late
+voyages, that will afford a very correct view of the fructification of
+some doubtful genera, as well as their limits. Among these the fruit of
+Podocarpus aspleniifolia of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with
+the female fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at
+the southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen's Land, which may
+prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species are known, and
+principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson, has also been
+discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about latitude 15 degrees South;
+and another species, remarkable for its general robust habit, was
+observed at Rottnest Island, on the West Coast. A tree, most certainly of
+this family, and probably (from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon
+the East Coast, within the tropic, but the absence of fructification
+prevented its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the
+extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent specimens
+gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to be a Podocarpus;
+and another, producing a cone, and solitary, alternate scattered
+elliptical leaves, shows its relation to Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar
+pine of Amboina.
+
+URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to equinoctial
+countries, may be considered very limited in those parts of Terra
+Australis lying within the tropic recently explored. Ficus is the most
+considerable genus of the order in that continent; and although chiefly
+found on the north and north-western shores, is also traced on the East
+Coast, almost to latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an
+enormous size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of
+the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been
+gathered on the North-west Coast.
+
+A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered upon the
+continent and islands of New South Wales within the tropic, where also a
+new genus of the order, with radiated leaves, has been traced as far as
+Endeavour River. Of the genus Urtica, whose numerous species can simply
+be considered as of herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical
+existence assume a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of
+the Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent
+growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to twenty feet
+in height, of proportional robust habit, and of highly stimulating
+nature.
+
+SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of the order
+described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of Port Jackson, upon
+the shores of the South Coast, and in Van Diemen's Land. The genus
+Choretrum, however, heretofore limited to the southern extremes of the
+continent, approaches within about two degrees of the tropic on the West
+Coast, having been lately observed on Dirk Hartog's Island. It is rather
+remarkable that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the
+feature of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the
+North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds of
+plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been remarked. Those
+extensive shores (generally speaking) are not wanting in the order, for
+two species of the tropical genus Santalum, Exocarpus, and a
+globular-fruited Fusanus, were collected in and about the parallel of 15
+degrees South.
+
+(*Footnote. Towards the North-west Cape.)
+
+PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown's valuable dissertation on
+this very extensive natural family, in which were described all the
+species known at that period, a few important discoveries have been made
+in Terra Australis, particularly on the North-west Coast, where the order
+seems to be limited to Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia.
+
+In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens of
+thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages of
+perfection; of these seven are described from specimens formerly gathered
+upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of Carpentaria; the remaining six
+are, however, perfectly new, and will chiefly augment the last section of
+that genus, having hard (in some instances spherical) woody follicles,
+containing seeds orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or
+less dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists may
+deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The range of
+this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown, Cycloptera, has been
+hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the tropical shores of
+the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea, hitherto almost wholly excluded from
+the tropical parts of Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species
+formerly observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least
+two plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees south
+latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George's Sound, whilst the
+other proves an entirely new species, belonging to the first section of
+the genus, having long filiform leaves, and ecalcarated capsules.
+
+Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were observed
+having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast, but being
+without fructification, their identity could not be satisfactorily
+determined.
+
+Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular fact in
+the geographical history of this genus, that its species, which have been
+traced through almost every meridian of the South Coast, upon the islands
+in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and widely scattered throughout the
+whole extent of New South Wales to the North Coast, at which extreme of
+the continent, B. dentata has been observed as far west as longitude 130
+degrees East, should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast.
+Why the links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the
+seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of their
+general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the growth of the
+greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge of the West Coast
+(properly so called) does not afford us materials to hazard even a
+partial conclusion, relative to the existence of this family on its
+shores, excepting from the total absence of any one plant of Proteaceae
+at those parts of Rottnest and Dirk Hartog's Islands visited during the
+Bathurst's voyage; an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of
+any part of the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no
+species have been found common to shores opposite to each other, in the
+higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides, Persoonia
+falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established upon the East Coast,
+and the north-western shores, in the parallel of about 15 degrees South:
+but whilst this geographical diffusion has been remarked in reference to
+those particular species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant
+discovered at Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well
+defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which it
+appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one hundred and
+twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the progress of the land
+expedition above referred to, the discovery of another plant of this
+natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in New South Wales, in a tract of
+country west of the coastline, about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I
+am informed it is a timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly
+it constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown, a
+native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some specimens.
+
+LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are admitted to
+be very nearly allied to each other) seems in Australia to exist on its
+eastern coast, within and beyond the tropic, and the species in the
+collection lately formed, are referred to ten established genera, of
+which (as belonging to Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable
+on the North-western Coast.
+
+Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere's genus Prostranthera was
+discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, where, as also at Rottnest Island,
+Westringia was observed, of species, however, common to the South Coast.
+
+BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to the limits of
+certain genera of the order have been proposed by Mr. Brown in his
+Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled to the exclusion of
+certain species previously referred to them by authors. Of Cordia (to
+which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of Ruiz and Pavon, have at length
+been united) only two species have been found in Terra Australis, of
+which one had been previously discovered in New Caledonia; and during the
+late voyages C. orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast,
+where a third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was
+discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that section of
+Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated inflorescence, which were
+also found on those equinoctial parts of the continent.
+
+BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order are described
+by authors, the greater part of which are at present incorporated among
+the genuine species of Bignonia of Linne; a genus that will hereafter be
+divided, according to the shape of the calyx, the number of fertile
+stamina, and more especially the form of the fruit (which in some species
+is an orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long
+cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at one
+extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua) together with the
+relative position of the dissepiment, in respect to the valves of the
+fruit.
+
+The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the equinoctial
+parts of America; Some, however, are natives of India, and a few occur on
+the western coast of Africa, and Island of Madagascar, but in Terra
+Australis the order is reduced to four plants, of which one is a recent
+discovery, and may be referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order
+exists only upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely
+limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in latitude
+34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced at least three
+hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the westward of the colony of
+Port Jackson.
+
+ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in the
+recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural families, have
+been described from specimens formerly discovered upon the East and North
+Coasts, several of which appear to give a partial character to the
+vegetation of some parts of its shores.
+
+Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema, Gymnanthus,
+Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to Asclepiadeae, and all
+the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted) referred to the latter order,
+exist on that extensive coast, where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an
+accession of species. Of Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably
+produces its flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of
+this genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its
+fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known respecting the
+plant being the form and size of its fruit, which in some species varies
+considerably.
+
+GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this
+considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and to the
+southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is reduced to
+Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne on the North-west
+Coast, and the few species of the two first genera prove to have been
+formerly discovered upon the South Coast during the voyage of Captain
+Flinders, of which one plant has alsa a much more extensive range than
+has been given it heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a
+portion of the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog's Island on the
+West Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very
+considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a direction
+towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance in the latitude of
+Port Jackson, so near that colony as the meridian of 146 degrees 30
+minutes East. A new Velleia, discovered on the North-west Coast in
+latitude 16 degrees, augments that genus, belonging to the section with a
+pentaphyllous calyx.
+
+RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive family in
+the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially when aided by some
+individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes, that form a prominent feature
+in the Flora of other equinoctial countries, tend, in some measure, to
+diminish the peculiar character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on
+those shores, and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of
+a part of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty
+species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for the most
+part belonging to genera existing in India, but more abundant in the
+tropical parts of South America.
+
+Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria, and
+Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in corresponding parallels
+on the opposite, or north-western shores, the order, although not
+materially reduced, is limited to the two latter genera, with Rondeletia,
+Ixora, and Genipa.
+
+It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which has not been
+observed beyond the tropics in other countries, extends in New South
+Wales as far south as the latitude of 35 degrees; at the western
+extremity of which it does not appear to exist.
+
+CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in the system,
+appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu associated them with
+Rhizophora, in the second section of this order, from which Mr. Brown has
+separated this latter genus, and with two others found in Terra
+Australis, has constructed a distinct family, named Rhizophoreae;
+suggesting, at the same time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to
+Santalaceae, and particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of
+which nearly the whole of its described species have been limited to the
+tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of Australia,
+where about eleven species have been recently observed, parasitical
+chiefly upon certain trees that constitute the mass of the forests of
+that vast continent; namely, Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and
+Melaleuca.
+
+A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual natural economy
+of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L. floribunda) described and
+figured by M. Labillardiere, which is found on the shores of King
+George's Sound, where, in no way recognising the dependent habits of its
+congeners, it rises from the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being
+never remarked relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum
+is found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined,
+having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast, within
+the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to be nearly
+beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the northern hemisphere,
+Loranthus exists in Siberia.
+
+UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium contains only
+three or four plants of this extensive European order, belonging to
+Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and Labillardiere (from which
+Trachymene of Rudge is probably not distinct) and a suffruticose plant
+referred to Cussonia, that have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon
+the north-western shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species
+is very general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its
+gigantic herbaceous growth.
+
+MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately discovered
+upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which are alone worthy of
+remark here, it is to be observed, that, considering the many points of
+that coast visited during the progress of the relative voyages, the
+number of species observed are comparatively few, for, including
+Eucalyptus, it does not exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only
+seven species were detected on those shores, and these, for the most
+part, form small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all
+their congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to
+three species, one of which was originally discovered by the celebrated
+navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where Beaufortia has been recently
+seen. Four species of Tristania, their related genus, were gathered in
+about latitude 15 degrees South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit,
+was observed; but of Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging
+to the higher latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout
+the whole extent of coast examined.
+
+RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni of
+Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other in the
+position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and in the
+character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other important
+differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to modify and define
+them as distinct orders.
+
+In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants belonging to
+Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and Celastrus, but both
+families prove to be comparatively rare in the intratropical parts of
+Terra Australis, beyond which Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the
+north-western shores, a species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North
+Coasts) forms a tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed
+Celastrus has been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from
+the verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port Jackson,
+where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the South Coast, it is
+highly probable the West Coast is not wanting of the genus, particularly
+as traces of it were found on Dirk Hartog's Island.
+
+LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty species of this
+extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently formed, which bear a
+proportion to the aggregate of the entire collections of about one to
+nine.
+
+Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met with upon
+all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused in the interior)
+forms a leading characteristic of its vegetation, upwards of fifty
+species have been collected, in various stages of fructification; nearly
+the whole of which are unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on
+the north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also
+extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the existence of
+a few appears limited to a solitary particular situation, and no one
+species was observed common to those parts, and the opposite or eastern
+shores of the continent.
+
+The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species, two-thirds of which
+belong to established diadelphous genera, found chiefly within the
+tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra Australis, and heretofore limited
+to the more temperate regions, have been discovered. Thus Hovea and
+Bossiaea were detected in New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees
+South, as well as on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise
+found on the north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia
+exist; and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally
+discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an island
+off the West Coast.
+
+Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14 and 15
+degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual characteristic of
+the Flora of other countries might in this case be so termed) is as
+manifest, and is as strongly blended with the pure Australian character
+(Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general vegetation, as on any other parts
+of those shores; Jacksonia and Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae,
+with distinct stamens, almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and
+the South Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the
+higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North Coast. Of
+Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant genus Guilandina,
+are all of intratropical existence in New South Wales, as also upon the
+North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it has an equal extensive range in
+the equinoctial parts of New Holland, has also been recently traced as
+far in the interior, on the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of
+146 degrees East.
+
+EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of this very
+numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist in India and
+equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian species are referable to
+established Linnean genera, of which Croton and Phyllanthus are most
+remarkable and numerous, existing on all the intratropical shores of
+Terra Australis, but by no means limited to them, both genera, together
+with Euphorbia and Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson;
+and Croton exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen's Land,
+which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere.
+
+A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in India) is
+sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and Acalypha has been
+remarked on these, as well as the north-western shores.
+
+PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and limits were
+first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen species in the Herbarium
+of these voyages, referable to Bursaria, Billardiera, Pittosporum, and
+two unpublished genera.
+
+Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which are not found
+north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent on the South-west
+Coast, and has been recently remarked on the West Coast of Van Diemen's
+Land. Bursaria on the other hand, appearing limited to New South Wales,
+has been traced within the tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those
+eastern shores, and although the genus Pittosporum is even more
+extensively diffused on that coast, it has not been met with upon the
+north-western shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me
+with two new species.
+
+DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of Terra
+Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar character to
+their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare within the tropic; for
+upon the East Coast Eriostemon and Phebalium appear to be the only
+genera, the latter having been recently discovered, in about latitude 20
+degrees South.
+
+With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied to
+Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in the parallel
+of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified fimbriated calyx.
+
+Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr. Brown to be
+separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is frequent on the
+tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of Zygophyllum, with linear
+conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit, was remarked upon an island off
+Shark's Bay, on the West Coast.
+
+MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is in the
+equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in the form of the
+remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation or insertion of the
+antherae upon it, as well as the character of its almost wholly capsular
+fruit. This structure of nectarium is most striking in Turraea, of which
+a species was observed upon the East Coast, far within the tropic; where
+also, as well as on all the other equinoctial shores of the continent,
+Carapa, more remarkable on account of the valvular character of its
+capsules, and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very
+general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C. moluccensis, Lam.)
+of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his Herbarium Amboinense volume
+3 table 61, 62.
+
+SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in the
+Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one an
+Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35 degrees, as
+also within the tropic; and the other, which appears to belong to
+Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in latitude 31 degrees
+South, the type of the genus being the bois de fer of the French
+colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the Island of Mauritius.
+
+MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent. Buttnericeae,
+Brown. These several families, of which the first is by far the most
+extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as so many allied orders of one
+natural class, to which the general title of Malvaceae might be applied.
+About thirty-six species of these orders collectively, are preserved in
+the present Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine
+are most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the botany of
+India, and the equinoctial parts of South America. Fourteen species of
+Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the intratropical Coasts of Australia,
+beyond which also, on the opposite shores of the continent, each genus
+has been remarked. One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and
+subspherical obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East
+Coast, in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western
+extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of
+Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in other
+countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the latitude of 34
+degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in the western interior,
+and in that direction it has been traced to the distance of three hundred
+miles from the sea-coast. The genus is also found on the North and
+North-west Coasts, where the species assume more particularly the habits
+of their congeners in India. Among the plants of this family in the
+Herbarium is a species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present)
+which was observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the
+contortion that characterizes the genus.
+
+This plant, together with three other described species, having straight
+capsules, may hereafter be separated from that Linnean genus, and
+constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia, Corchorus, Triumfetta, and
+Waltheria, have been observed upon the North-west Coast, where also
+Abroma, hitherto limited to the tropical parts of New South Wales, has
+been discovered bearing flowers and young fruit. One species of
+Commersonia was gathered at widely-different parts of the north-western
+shores, and Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes
+of the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen just
+within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog's Island, off
+Shark's Bay, on the opposite shore.
+
+CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been discovered upon
+the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part within the tropic, but
+of these the fructification of two are wanting. A few have been detected
+on the East Coast, but they are more frequent and various in their
+species upon the north-western shores of the continent. Within an area on
+this extensive coast, not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the
+parallel of 15 degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit,
+has been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia of
+the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of visiting those
+parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had previously cast its
+foliage of the preceding year, which is of quinary insertion, but it bore
+ripe fruit, which is a large elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule
+(a bacca corticosa) containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy
+substance. Its flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the
+characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this natural
+family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of Capparis
+pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of Mauritius, which he
+has named Calyptranthus. It has one division of the calyx so formed, that
+by its arcuated concavity (before expansion) it conceals the whole
+flower, and the other portions of the calyx; and should this genus be
+adopted by future botanists, a second species has been recently
+discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, although of remarkably different
+habit.
+
+Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of Australia, and
+like Capparis, several species exist on the North-west Coast, being
+limited to C. viscosa in New South Wales.
+
+Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is generally
+diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour River, and on the
+North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the southern extremes of Van
+Diemen's Land.
+
+DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately enumerated
+by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in addition, only two
+species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit Thouars. The one
+discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied to H. angustifolium of Mr.
+Brown; the other proving also new, but approaching in character the
+doubtful species, H. leschenaultii of Decandolle, and was discovered upon
+Rottnest Island, off the western coast of the continent, and is the first
+certain species of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical
+existence.
+
+In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain natural
+orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the stated
+circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other detached genera,
+or families sparingly observed on these coasts, that were more
+particularly investigated during the progress of the late voyages; but as
+these several plants form portions of orders so extremely limited, and in
+themselves presenting nothing remarkable in their internal structure, or
+external habit, a few remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation
+of the North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will
+conclude this notice.
+
+It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and collected
+upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are not to be
+considered as even a distant approach to an entire Flora of that
+extensive line of shore; since the long-established droughts of the
+seasons (as already remarked) in which the greater part of that coast was
+visited, had wholly destroyed plants of annual duration, with most of the
+Gramineae, and had indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous
+vegetation. The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a
+gleaning, affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as
+will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more minutely
+defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of the continent, as
+well as perceive its general, and, in some instances, almost total want
+of relation to the botany of other parts, in the more temperate or higher
+latitudes, where certain striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora
+more particularly exist.
+
+Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus formed on
+the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and East Coasts, aided
+also by some few observations made during the voyages, it appears that
+(with the exception of Gompholobium, Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two
+unpublished species not referred to any family) the genera (of which
+several are proper to India) are the same, although the species are very
+distinct upon the several coasts.
+
+Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon their
+opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others, frequent upon
+the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the north-western shores:
+of these, the existence of some, even in the tropical parts of New South
+Wales, seems governed by the primary formation of the coast, its
+mountainous structure, and consequent permanency of moisture in a greater
+or less degree; namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical
+Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae) Commelina
+and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a solitary Australian
+genus of Scitamineae, some genera of Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria
+and Coffea, certain genera of Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus
+allied to it, whose fructification is at length obtained, a solitary
+plant of Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea.
+
+Other genera also, but little influenced by those local circumstances of
+situation on the East Coast, that are excluded from the opposite shores,
+are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial genus of Epacrideae observed during
+the late voyages) the families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus
+Erythrina, and of Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of
+several orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New
+South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at the same
+time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of species on the former
+coast, would suggest the opinion, that such plants alone of other parts
+of the continent are indigenous to the North-west Coast, as are capable
+of sustaining themselves in a soil subjected to seasons of protracted
+parching droughts. This may apply to some species upon that coast, but it
+cannot be reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is
+singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts, and
+particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae (than those
+already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil, should have been
+discovered throughout any part of its extensive shore; whilst, on the
+other hand, at a peculiar structure of a small and limited portion of
+that coast, in the vicinity of York Sound, a sufficiency of shade was
+observed to be actually produced by the unusually broken character of the
+country, to favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to
+be seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were Myristica
+insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince of Wales group of
+islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe
+fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an undescribed Eugenia.
+
+Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the
+north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts of the
+continent, there is, among the many species which are absolutely proper
+to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary habit, as to form a
+feature in the landscape of a limited extent of its shores, in the
+enormous bulk of its stem and general ramification, bearing a striking
+analogy to the Adansonia of the west coast of Africa.
+
+The results of such observations on the vegetation as could only be made
+in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme of the North-west
+Coast, show their little affinity to each other; for the northern
+extremity partakes more fully of that feature of the line of coast
+contiguous to it, which (as already remarked) extends along the
+north-western shores, declines materially at, and in the vicinity of
+their southern limits, where the characteristic vegetation of the south,
+and perhaps the west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides
+Eucalyptus and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally
+diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been
+penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed, which is,
+however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three species. This is
+Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New South Wales, within and
+beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and generally in the interior of the
+country, extending also to the southern extremity of Van Diemen's Land.
+
+Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent (excepting
+of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included between the
+parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is entirely confined
+to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon every distinct coast of
+which, landings, more or less frequent, and under various circumstances,
+have been effected; although of all, very considerable portions remain
+unexplored, and of the line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the
+shores of Shark's Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been
+scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic remains
+entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want of large streams
+having a distant source, to aid a penetration to the internal parts of
+the country, together with other effectual obstacles, draw at present a
+veil, and forbid all research into its Natural History and character,
+which will not be removed for very considerable periods (perhaps ages)
+yet to come!
+
+It was the general remark made during a former expedition in the interior
+of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change takes place in the
+vegetation east of the meridian of the new settlement named Bathurst; but
+that the plants of the coast were more or less frequent at a hundred and
+fifty miles from the sea, although in a country estimated at about two
+thousand feet above its level. Having to this circumstance added a
+remarkable and obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of
+a vein of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired, how
+far these facts might, when applied to other parallels, identify a
+certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that of the sea-coast
+in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how far the botany of the coast
+indicates the general feature of the vegetation to a certain limit, in
+the interior on the same parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded
+me, to compare the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at
+the eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the
+results of such a comparison identified many species on the two coasts. I
+have annexed a list of those plants that are common to the North-west and
+East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South, from a
+contemplation of which, together with the above remarks, and a further
+comparison of the species with those of the shores of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, through which that degree of latitude passes, might not a
+general idea of some portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate
+interior (far beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed?
+
+A few observations relative to the geographical range of certain genera
+and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed, will close this notice.
+
+The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as equinoctial; nor
+was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily, that one of its species
+(P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the shores of Port Macquarie in New
+South Wales, in latitude 31 degrees South: and I have been credibly
+informed, that the same plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port
+Stephens, which is at least a degree to the southward of the above
+parallel. The latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost
+extreme of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on
+the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it has not
+been remarked beyond the tropics.
+
+The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed) are
+remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very considerable
+diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have even a more general
+dispersion on the latter shores, than has been allowed them formerly.
+Seaforthia is frequent in dense forests on the East Coast, almost to
+latitude 35 degrees South, where it exhibits all the tropical habits
+assumed on the northern shores, although the difference of climate, and
+consequent temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm
+of very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous
+foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in latitude 12
+degrees South, on the North Coast; and although without fructification,
+no doubt existed of its being the Corypha australis, hitherto limited to
+the shores and vicinity of Port Jackson.
+
+Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without doubt, must
+have been particularly noticed by the celebrated circumnavigator Captain
+Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New South Wales, although the
+circumstance of the very general existence of a pine upon the islands and
+main of that coast, north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be
+mentioned in the accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more
+extensive range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During
+the Mermaid's voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of Mount
+Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of Norfolk Island
+(29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very sparingly seen towards
+the tropic, within which, however, as far as latitude 14 degrees, it is
+very abundant, forming upon several islands the only timber. This is
+probably the nearest approach of the species to the equinoctial line; and
+although it occupies an area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably
+limited in Terra Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be
+the case with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea air.
+
+Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph Banks, at
+Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently detected in moist
+woods, in the country off which the Five Islands are situate, extending
+on that shore to latitude 35 degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora,
+Br., a delicate plant of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour
+River, abounds in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same
+extensive coast.
+
+The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only in Van
+Diemen's Land, have been recently ascertained to exist also in New South
+Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson.
+
+Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the South-west Coast,
+was seen in the interior, as far to the westward of the colony as
+longitude 146 degrees East.
+
+Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148 degrees.
+
+Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the interior, in the
+meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and Daviesia latifolia of Mr.
+Brown is very frequent in societies upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude
+149 degrees East, where also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was
+observed.
+
+Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were described
+by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the southern extremes
+of the above island, and have been lately seen tolerably frequent in a
+remarkable tract of country, in latitude 34 degrees, on the limit of the
+colony, where the former assumes a robust, arborescent habit. Aster
+phlogopappus, of the same eminent author, was recently remarked upon the
+more elevated parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a
+remarkable cataract.
+
+...
+
+A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF TERRA
+AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES SOUTH, WHERE THE
+BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES.
+
+Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.
+Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br.
+Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn.
+Flagellaria indica, L.
+Dioscorea bulbifera, L.
+*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br.
+Cycas angulata, Br.
+Santalum oblongatum, Br.
+Exocarpus latifolia, Br.
+Persoonia falcata, Br.
+Grevillea mimosoides, Br.
+Hakea arborescens, Br.
+Buchnera ramosissima, Br.
+Adenosma coerulea, Br.
+Orthostemon erectum, Br.
+Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br.
+Carissa ovata, Br.
+Strychnos lucida, Br.
+Alyxia obtusifolia, Br.
+Ipomoea longifiora, Br.
+Ipomoea denticulata, Br.
+Ipomoea maritima, Br.
+Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.
+Cuscuta carinata, Br.
+Cordia orientalis, Br.
+* Clerodendrum inerme, Br.
+* Avicennia tomentosa, L.
+Chionanthus axillaris, Br.
+Olea paniculata, Br.
+Maba laurina, Br.
+Sersalisia obovata, Br.
+Mimusops parvifolia, Br.
+Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam.
+Cleome viscosa, L.
+Capparis sepiaria, L.
+Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.
+Abroma fastuosa, Br.
+Bombax australis.
+Jacksonia thesioides.
+Bauhiniae sp.
+Caesalpiniae sp.
+Cassia occidentalis, L.
+Guilandina Bonduc, L.
+Morinda citrifolia, L.
+* Carapa moluccensis, Lam.
+Zizyphus melastomoides.
+* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.
+Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam.
+
+Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in the
+vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels pass,
+generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list, it is more than
+probable that these several species occupy portions of the intermediate
+interior bounded by the meridians of 125 and 145 degrees East; those
+plants excepted, having an asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming
+mangroves, or from other causes exist only on the sea shore.
+
+...
+
+A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE SHORES OF TERRA
+AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH AMERICA.
+
+Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw.
+Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw.
+Nephrodium exaltatum, Br.
+Nephrodium unitum, Br.
+Vittaria elongata, Sw.
+Asplenium nidus, L.
+Daval1ia flaccida, Br.
+Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.
+Flagellaria indica, L.
+Dioscorea bulbifera, L.
+Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd.
+Aristolochia indica, L.
+Daphne indica, L.
+Salicornia indica, Willd.
+Deeringia celosioides, Br.
+Plumbago zeylanica, L.
+Dischidia nummularifolia, Br.
+Acanthus ilicifolius, L.
+Acanthus ebracteatus, L.
+Ipomea Turpethum, Br.
+Ipomea denticulata, Br.
+Ipomea maritima, Br.
+Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.
+Trichodesma zeylanica, Br.
+Tournefortia argentea, L.
+Cordia orientalis, Br.
+Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br.
+Clerodendrum inerme, Br.
+Vitex ovata, L.
+Vitex trifolia, L.
+Avicennia tomentosa, L.
+Mimusops kauki, L.
+Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig.
+Scaevola koenigii, Vahl.
+Cleome viscosa, L.
+Capparis sepiaria, L. ?
+Calophyllum inophyllum, L.
+Morinda citrifolia, L.
+Carapa moluccensis, Lam.
+Sophora tomentosa, L.
+Cassia occidentalis, L.
+Guilandina bonduc, L.
+Abrus precatorius, L.
+? Acacia scandens, Willd. ?
+Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.
+Suriana maritima, Jacqu.
+Pemphis acida, Forst.
+Rhizophora mangle, L. ?
+Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.
+Sonneratia acida, L.
+Abroma fastuosa, Br.
+Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst.
+
+...
+
+CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS FOUND ON THE
+SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRUCTURE OF
+ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND
+CONIFERAE.
+
+BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E. F.L.S.
+
+(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15, 1825.)
+
+In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I have
+mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in the year
+1801, near the shores of King George the Third's Sound, in Mr. Westall's
+view of which, published in Captain Flinders' Narrative, it is
+introduced.
+
+The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect remains of
+fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore, merely from its
+habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees with Xanthorrhoea,
+included the short notice given of it in my remarks on Asphodeleae, to
+which that genus was referred.* Mr. Cunningham, the botanist attached to
+Captain King's voyages, who examined the plant in the same place of
+growth, in February, 1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate
+than myself. Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George's
+Sound, in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr.
+William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to this
+plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823, both in flower
+and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his liberal employer, Mr.
+Henchman, I am indebted for complete specimens of its fructification,
+which enable me to establish it as a genus distinct from any yet
+described.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 576.)
+
+To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain King, who,
+during his important surveys of the Coasts of New Holland, formed
+valuable collections in several departments of Natural History, and on
+all occasions gave every assistance in his power to Mr. Cunningham, the
+indefatigable botanist who accompanied him. The name is also intended as
+a mark of respect to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King,
+who, as Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of
+Captain Flinders' voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand Bauer and
+myself were indebted for important assistance in our pursuits while we
+remained in that colony.
+
+KINGIA.
+
+ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem.
+
+CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum, persistens.
+Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis. Ovarium triloculare,
+loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus. Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum.
+Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens, monospermum, perianthio scarioso
+cinctum.
+
+Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens cicatricibus
+basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem terminantia confertissima
+longissima, figura et dispositione Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi
+foliis breviores, bracteis vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi
+terminales erecti, mox, caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis
+productis, laterales, et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso
+globoso floribus tribracteatis.
+
+Kingia australis. Table C.
+
+DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus, 6-18-pedes
+altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia numerosissima
+patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida, ancipitia apice
+teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis adpressis strictis acutis
+laevibus, angulis lateralibus et ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi
+numerosi teretes 8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris
+brevibus imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum
+globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum parvum
+aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati, sessiles. Bractea
+exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula erecta, extus villosa
+intus glabra, post lapsum fructus persistens: duae laterales
+angusto-naviculares, acutissimae, carina lateribusque villosis,
+longitudine fere exterioris, simul cum perianthio fructifero, separatim
+tamen, dilabentibus. Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale
+glumaceum: foliola lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis
+simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata lateribus
+inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus longitudinaliter sed extra
+medium praecipue villosa, intus glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata.
+Stamina sex subaequalia, aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim
+elongantibus: Filamenta fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii
+quibus opposita leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae
+stantes, ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores,
+defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis parallelo-contiguis
+connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi ventrali longitudinaliter
+dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex
+breve ovale laeve. Pistillum: Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve
+cinctum, lanceolatum trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis
+monospermis. Ovula erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra
+basin suam inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa
+basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna respectu
+testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta, ovata apice
+angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus cavitate membranae
+conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum liber, pulposus solidus, apice
+acutiusculo laevi aperturam membranae internae attingente. Stylus
+trigonus strictus, infra villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine
+staminum, iisdem paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa.
+Stigmata tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum,
+indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso et
+filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen turgidum
+obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici membranaceo aqueo-pallido,
+bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula, raphe fusca verticem retusum
+attingente ibique in chalazam parvam concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini
+conforme dense carnosum album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus
+subglobosus, extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi
+seminis situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus.
+
+Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo florido
+terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio transversalis
+pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali, sequentes omnes plus
+minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7, anthera antice et, 8, eadem
+postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10, ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem
+portio longitudinaliter secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi
+replens; 12, ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna
+solummodo ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli
+sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam internam et
+nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli fructiferi; 15,
+pericarpium perianthio filamentisque persistentibus cinctum; 16,
+pericarpium perianthio avulso filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen.
+
+OBS. 1.
+
+It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is secreted
+by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea; and whether, which
+is probable, it agrees also in the internal structure of its stem with
+that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the direction of fibres or vessels of the
+caudex seems at first sight to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous
+arrangement, but in reality much more nearly approaches to that of
+Dracaena draco, allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme
+narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels belong.*
+
+(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure of Xanthorrhoea is
+chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex of one of the larger species
+of the genus, brought from Port Jackson, and deposited in the collection
+at the Jardin du Roi of Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent
+botanist who was attached to Captain De Freycinet's voyage.)
+
+OBS. 2.
+
+I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with Dasypogon,
+Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New Holland, and of which the
+two former have hitherto been observed only, along with it, on the shores
+of King George's Sound.
+
+The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to
+Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus also.
+Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute comparison of the
+parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement is still manifest to
+strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of the importance of those
+characters, by which I attempted to define certain families of the great
+class Liliaceae.
+
+In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the outer coat of
+the seed, and in those other points, on which I then chiefly depended in
+distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae, a more important character in
+Junceae exists in the position of the embryo, whose radicle points always
+to the base of the seed, the external umbilicus being placed in the axis
+of the inner or ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in
+Kingia, or towards the middle, as in Xerotes.
+
+OBS. 3.
+
+ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS PLANTS.
+
+The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia, though
+essentially different from the accounts hitherto published of that organ
+before fecundation, in reality agrees with its ordinary structure in
+Phaenogamous plants.
+
+I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the agreement of
+this description with the usual structure of the Ovulum, and its
+essential difference from the accounts of other observers, as briefly as
+possible at present; in tending hereafter to treat the subject at greater
+length, and also with other views.
+
+I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of the Ovulum,
+chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before fecundation, of the
+place and direction of the future Embryo. These remarks, however, which
+were certainly very brief, seem entirely to have escaped the notice of
+those authors who have since written on the same subject.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean Society Transactions
+12 page page 136.)
+
+In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders' Voyage,
+published in 1814, the following description of the Ovulum of Cephalotus
+follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra testam membranaceam
+continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine cavitatis testae, and in
+reference to this description, I have in the same place remarked that,
+"from the structure of the Ovulum, even in the unimpregnated state, I
+entertain no doubt that the radicle of the Embryo points to the
+umbilicus."*
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.)
+
+My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809, in
+consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function of the
+Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of the observation
+now quoted, I had ascertained that in Phaenogamous plants the
+unimpregnated Ovulum very generally consisted of two concentric
+membranes, or coats, enclosing a Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I
+had observed also, that the inner coat had no connexion either with the
+outer or with the nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation
+to the outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in
+direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the nucleus
+the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be found.
+
+(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page 35.)
+
+On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of Cephalotus was
+formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I employed, indeed, the
+less correct term sacculus, which, however, sufficiently expressed the
+appearance of the included body in the specimens examined, and served to
+denote my uncertainty in this case as to the presence of the inner
+membrane.
+
+I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several plants, of a
+foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct from, and in some
+cases diametrically opposite to the external umbilicus, and which I had
+in no instance found cohering either directly with the parietes of the
+Ovarium, or with any process derived from them. But, as I was then unable
+to detect this foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did
+not attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the direction
+of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the apex of the nucleus,
+either directly by dissection, or indirectly from the vascular cord of
+the outer membrane: the termination of this cord affording a sure
+indication of the origin of the inner membrane, and consequently of the
+base of the nucleus, the position of whose apex is therefore readily
+determined.
+
+In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in 1818, by my
+lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who, eminently qualified for
+an investigation where minute accuracy and great experience in
+microscopical observation were necessary, succeeded in ascertaining the
+very general existence of the foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But
+as the foramina in these membranes invariably correspond both with each
+other and with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the
+future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and more
+obvious than that which I had previously employed.
+
+To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable Ovulum differs
+from those hitherto given, and in some measure, that its correctness may
+be judged of, I shall proceed to state the various observations that have
+been actually made, and the opinions that have been formed on the
+subject, as briefly as I am able, taking them in chronological order.
+
+In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of many
+Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the radicle of the
+Embryo, which, he adds, is "not a hole casually made, or by the breaking
+off of the stalk," but formed for purposes afterwards stated to be the
+aeration of the Embryo, and facilitating the passage of its radicle in
+germination. It appears that he did not consider this foramen in the
+testa as always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being
+performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to him, by
+the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in the stone or
+shell.
+
+(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy of Plants page 2.)
+
+In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the early state
+of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the testa; the other, his
+middle membrane, is evidently what I have termed nucleus, whose origin in
+the Ovulum of the Apricot he has distinctly represented and described.
+
+(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table 80.)
+
+Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state of the
+Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his chorion the
+nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though he appears to have
+seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra and fenestella, and these,
+to which he assigns the same functions, are merely his terms for the
+hilum.
+
+(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et 80.)
+
+In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of plants,*
+proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which either the entire
+grains of pollen, or their particles after bursting, may be supposed to
+reach and act upon the unimpregnated Ovula, which he had himself
+carefully observed. With his usual candour, however, he acknowledges his
+obligation on this subject to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of
+them he refers.
+
+(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu plantarum epistola page 8
+46 et seq.)
+
+Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek's hypothesis of
+generation to plants, assumes the existence of an aperture in the Ovulum,
+through which it is impregnated. It appears, indeed, that he had not
+actually observed this aperture before fecundation, but inferred its
+existence generally and at that period, from having, as he says,
+"discovered in the seeds of beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end
+of what we call the eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to
+the seminal plant," and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered.
+This perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of
+Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he takes
+no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his subject.
+
+(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n. 287 page 1474.)
+
+In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother Claude
+Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis, state the general
+existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated vegetable Ovulum. It is
+not, however, probable that these authors had really seen this aperture
+in the early state of the Ovulum in any case, but rather that they had
+merely advanced from the observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded
+on it by Morland, whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to
+the unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is to be
+remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously been observed
+or asserted on the more important parts of their subject, while several
+passages are evidently copied, and the whole account of the original
+state and development of the Ovulum is literally translated from
+Camerarius' Essay. Nor does the younger Geoffroy mention the earlier
+publication of his brother, from which his own memoir is in great part
+manifestly derived.
+
+(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia Vermis? in auctoris
+Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page 123.)
+
+(**Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711 page 210.)
+
+In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of generation,
+supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an aura, conveyed by
+the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which it enters, if I rightly
+understand him, by the funiculus umbilicalis: at the same time he seems
+to admit the existence of the aperture in the coat.
+
+(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page 20.)
+
+In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the hypothesis of
+Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they consider the particles in
+the grains of Pollen, not the grains themselves, to be the embryos, and
+that they enter the ovula by the umbilical cord.
+
+(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page 60.)
+
+(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61 paragraph 118.)
+
+Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before fecundation, and
+that it receives its first excitement from a vapour or aura proceeding
+from the Pollen, conveyed to it through the tracheae of the style, and
+entering the Ovulum by the umbilical cord.
+
+(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page 121.)
+
+Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the unimpregnated
+Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it in general to be a
+homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but in two Cucurbitaceae to
+consist of a nucleus surrounded by three coats. Of these coats he rightly
+supposes the outermost to be merely the epidermis of the middle membrane
+or testa. Of the relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the
+two plants in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case
+mention an aperture in the Ovulum.
+
+(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to 332.)
+
+Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays great
+erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly, however, be
+considered an original observer in this part. He describes the
+unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous globule, whose epidermis,
+then scarcely distinguishable, separates in a more advanced stage, and
+becomes the testa of the seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely
+the product of fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly
+appears at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the
+umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore mistakes
+the apex for the base of the nucleus.
+
+(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et 61.)
+
+In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by which the
+fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable ovulum. The substance
+of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous plants fecundation takes
+place through a cord or fasciculus of vessels entering the outer coat of
+the ovulum, at a point distinct from, but at the period of impregnation
+closely approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord,
+which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle: that
+the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus, or, as he
+terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general correspond in direction;
+that more rarely the inner membrane is, with relation to the outer,
+inverted; and that towards the origin of the inner membrane the radicle
+of the embryo uniformly points.
+
+(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 7 page 199.)
+
+It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced as M.
+Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in every case to
+the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented himself with an
+examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he has formed an erroneous
+opinion of the nature and origin, and in some plants of the situation, of
+the micropyle itself, and hence also he has in all cases mistaken the
+apex for the base of the nucleus.
+
+A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not seem to
+have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M. Richard, when in
+1808 he published his valuable and original Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum
+has, according to him, but one covering, which in the ripe seed he calls
+episperm. He considers the centre of the hilum as the base, and the
+chalaza, where it exists, as the natural apex of the seed.
+
+M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the foramen or
+micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as receiving by the hilum
+both nourishing and fecundating vessels,** and as consisting of a uniform
+parenchyma, in which the embryo appears at first a minute point,
+gradually converting more or less of the surrounding tissue into its own
+substance; the coats and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion
+which remains.***
+
+(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1 page 49.)
+
+(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.)
+
+(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)
+
+In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the micropyle
+is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in some plants it is
+situated at the opposite extremity of the ovulum, and that in all cases
+it corresponds with the radicle of the embryo. This excellent botanist,
+at the same time, adopts M. Turpin's opinion, that the micropyle is the
+cicatrix of a vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion
+with the parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which
+in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family, namely,
+Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after a certain
+period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion, which I have not met
+with in any case.
+
+(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et seq.)
+
+In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor Ludolf
+Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable embryo,* in
+which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as having two coats: but
+of these, his inner coat is evidently the middle membrane of Grew, the
+chorion of Malpighi, or what I have termed nucleus.
+
+(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im Pflanzen-Ey.)
+
+In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with the
+dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his observations on the
+same subject.* In what regards the structure of the ovulum, he
+essentially agrees with that author, and has equally overlooked the inner
+membrane.
+
+(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241 et seq.)
+
+It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have noticed the
+foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention the well-known
+essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on the micropyle, it may
+be presumed that they were not disposed to adopt the statements of these
+authors respecting it.
+
+Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in 1824, adopts
+the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the ovulum before
+impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the situation of the micropyle,
+and its being the cicatrix of a vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit
+the function ascribed to it, and asserts that it is in many cases
+wanting.**
+
+(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page 338.)
+
+(**Footnote. Id. page 340.)
+
+The account which I have given of the structure of the vegetable ovulum,
+differs essentially from all those now quoted, and I am not acquainted
+with any other observations of importance respecting it.
+
+Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who have most
+particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have not always examined
+it at a sufficiently early period, and have confined themselves to its
+surface: that those who have most minutely examined its internal
+structure, have trusted too much to sections merely, and have neglected
+its appearance externally: and that those who have not at all examined it
+in the early stage, have given the most correct account of its surface.
+This account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds,
+generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in connexion with
+an hypothesis then very commonly received: but this hypothesis being soon
+after abandoned, their statement respecting the ovulum was rejected along
+with it.
+
+In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to the
+external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already observed,
+though in direct opposition to M. Turpin's account, is the usual
+structure of the organ. There are, however, several families in each of
+the two primary divisions of phaenogamous plants, in which the inner
+membrane, and consequently the nucleus, agrees in direction with the
+testa. In such cases the external umbilicus alone affords a certain
+indication of the position of the future embryo.
+
+It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated, that the
+radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the external umbilicus
+or hilum, though this is said to be generally the case by the most
+celebrated carpologists.
+
+Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence of the
+structure described, but equally at variance with many of the published
+accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the radicle is never
+absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the recent state, is either
+immediately in contact with the inner membrane of the seed, or this
+contact is established by means of a process generally very short, but
+sometimes of great length, and which indeed in all cases may be regarded
+as an elongation of its own substance. From this rule I have found one
+apparent deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can
+hardly be considered as setting it aside.
+
+It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with exceptions to the
+structure of the ovulum as I have here described it, In Compositae its
+coats seem to be imperforated, and hardly separable, either from each
+other or from the nucleus, in this family, therefore, the direction of
+the embryo can only be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in
+Lemna I have found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to
+the apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other peculiarities
+of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical as the assertion may
+seem, I consider the exception rather as confirming than lessening the
+importance of the character.
+
+(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 136.)
+
+It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or vascular cord
+of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to that side of the ovulum
+which is next the placenta. But it is at least deserving of notice, that
+the very few apparent exceptions to this rule evidently tend to confirm
+it. The most remarkable of these exceptions occur in those species of
+Euonymus, which, contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family
+they belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since noticed,
+in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in the other cases in
+which the raphe is on the outer side, or that most remote from the
+placenta, the ovula are in reality resupinate; an economy apparently
+essential to their development.
+
+(*Footnote. Abel's China page 377.)
+
+The distinct origins and different directions of the nourishing vessels
+and channel through which fecundation took place in the ovulum, may still
+be seen in many of those ripe seeds that are winged, and either present
+their margins to the placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the
+wing at right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are
+visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa produced at
+both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a structure which
+proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they are called, to be
+really testa, and not arillus, as it has often been termed.
+
+The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the
+unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be sufficiently
+evident from what has been already stated. But this distinction has been
+necessarily neglected by two classes of observers. The first consisting
+of those, among whom are several of the most eminent carpologists, who
+have regarded the coats of the seed as products of fecundation. The
+second of those authors who, professing to give an account of the ovulum
+itself, have made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe
+seed, the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be
+formed before impregnation.
+
+The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence, is never
+complete, and whose development takes place chiefly after fecundation,
+might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It is, however, worthy of
+remark, that in the early stage of the ovulum, this envelope is in
+general hardly visible even in those cases where, as in Hibbertia
+volubilis, it attains the greatest size in the ripe seed; nor does it in
+any case, with which I am acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa
+until after fecundation.
+
+The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed by the
+outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the nucleus is
+inverted, which is the more usual structure, its origin may be
+satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum being more or less
+lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or more obviously, and with
+greater certainty where the raphe is visible, this vascular cord
+uniformly belonging to the outer membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza,
+properly so called, though merely the termination of the raphe, affords a
+less certain character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the
+inner surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of
+insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or other of
+which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases where the testa
+agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not acquainted with any
+character by which it can be absolutely distinguished from the inner
+membrane in the ripe seed; but as a few plants are already known, in
+which the outer membrane is originally incomplete, its entire absence,
+even before fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such
+a structure will be mentioned hereafter.
+
+There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly noticed,* of
+the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe seed; and on the other
+hand it appears to constitute the greater part of the substance of the
+bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae, where it no doubt performs also the
+function of albumen, from which, however, it is readily distinguished by
+its vascularity.** But the most remarkable deviation from the usual
+structure and economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its
+earliest stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in
+Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that the
+inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely exposed,
+the outer membrane being even then open its whole length; and that the
+outer membranes of the two collateral ovula, which are originally
+distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by their corresponding
+surfaces, and together constitute the anomalous dissepiment of the
+capsule; the inner membrane of the ovulum consequently forming the outer
+coat of the seed.
+
+(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 149.)
+
+(**Footnote. Ibid.)
+
+The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears to be of
+greater importance as connected with fecundation, than as affording
+protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period. For in many cases,
+before impregnation, its perforated apex projects beyond the aperture of
+the testa, and in some plants puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or
+even dilated stigma; while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely
+obliterated, or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be
+mistaken for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently
+observable.
+
+This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of the
+Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it is never, I
+believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely visible. In the
+ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner membrane only by its
+apex, which is never perforated, is generally acute and more deeply
+coloured, or even sphacelated.
+
+The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost coat of the
+seed. But in a few plants an additional coat, apparently originating in
+the inner membrane of Grew, the vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of
+Malpighi also exists.
+
+In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges, till at
+length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the nucleus,
+containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen, where the latter
+continues to exist. In such cases, however, its proper membrane is
+commonly obliterated, and its place supplied either by that of the
+nucleus, by the inner membrane of the ovulum, or, where both these are
+evanescent, by the testa itself.
+
+In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of granular matter
+in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these cases the membrane of the
+amnios seems to be persistent, forming even in the ripe seed a proper
+coat for the embryo, the original attachment of whose radicle to the apex
+of this coat may also continue. This, at least, seems to me the most
+probable explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely,
+Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba, notwithstanding
+their very remarkable germination, as observed and figured in Nymphaea
+and Nuphar by Tittmann.*
+
+(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table 3 et 4.)
+
+In support of this explanation, which differs from all those yet given, I
+may here advert to an observation published many years ago, though it
+seems to have escaped every author who has since written on the subject,
+namely, that before the maturity of the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the
+sacculus contains along with the embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid)
+substance, which I then called Vitellus, applying at that time this name
+to every body interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion
+receives some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine
+filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre of the
+lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the hollow axis of the
+Albumen, probably connects this coat of the Embryo in an early stage with
+the base of the nucleus.
+
+(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page 306.)
+
+The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of Piperaceae and
+Saururus; and other instances occur of the persistence either of the
+membrane or of the substance of the amnios in the ripe seed.
+
+It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given of the
+structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes consequent to
+real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take place within the
+nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so called, may be formed either
+by a deposition or secretion of granular matter in the utriculi of the
+amnios, or in those of the nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances
+having these distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist
+in the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae.
+
+On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I shall at
+present make but one other remark, which forms a necessary introduction
+to the observations that follow.
+
+ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE.
+
+That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where
+impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from the
+constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and from the
+very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this inversion its apex is
+brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact with that part of the
+parietes of the ovarium, by which the influence of the pollen may be
+supposed to be communicated. In several of those families of plants,
+however, in which the nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are
+polyspermous, as Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner
+this influence can reach its apex externally, except on the supposition,
+not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura filling the cavity of
+the ovarium; or by the complete separation of the fecundating tubes from
+the placentae, which, however, in such cases I have never been able to
+detect.
+
+(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by that of the seed, as
+characterizing and defining the limits of Cistineae (namely, Cistus,
+Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom
+it is noticed in his Flora Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where,
+however, an observation is added respecting Gaertner's description of
+Cistus and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.)
+
+It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting the point
+of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the ovarium was either
+altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed, that the ovulum itself
+became directly exposed to the action of the pollen, or its fovilla; its
+apex, as well as the orifice of its immediate covering, being modified
+and developed to adapt them to this economy.
+
+But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure of
+Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of which Thoa of
+Aublet is a species.
+
+To this view the most formidable objection would be removed, were it
+admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations, that the apex of
+the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation, has no organic connexion
+with the parietes of the ovarium. In support of it, also, as far as
+regards the direct action of the pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances
+of analogous economy in the animal kingdom may be adduced.
+
+The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae to the
+ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described it, is indeed
+sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here advanced not altogether
+improbable. But the proof of its correctness must chiefly rest on a
+resemblance, in every essential point, being established, between the
+inner body in the supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus
+of the ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but
+also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation. Now as far
+as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete agreement in all these
+respects. I am not entirely satisfied, however, with the observations I
+have hitherto been able to make on a subject naturally difficult, and to
+which I have not till lately attended with my present view.
+
+The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this view of
+the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and apparently secreting
+surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus in most cases; its occasional
+projection beyond the orifice of the outer coat; its cohesion with that
+coat by a considerable portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent
+division of the orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of
+structure might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced,
+being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy.
+
+There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an objection,
+and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to this opinion;
+namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in the principal part of
+Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which consists of a nucleus and one
+coat only, compared with the organ as generally existing when enclosed in
+an ovarium. The want of uniformity in this respect may even be stated as
+another difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to
+be complete.
+
+In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two envelopes, the
+outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous to the calyx, or
+involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging to the ovulum; but in
+Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of these may, with great
+probability, be regarded as coats of the nucleus; while in Podocarpus and
+Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps,
+be viewed as the testa of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to
+Dacrydium, the longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage,
+and its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial
+covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great
+measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in Banksia
+and Dryandra.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 573.)
+
+(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)
+
+The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and which, in
+Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may also, perhaps, be
+supposed to form an objection to the present opinion, though to me it
+appears rather an argument in its favour.
+
+Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of the
+structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me, as far as I
+am aware of them, much less important than those that may be brought
+against the other opinions that have been advanced, and still divide
+botanists on this subject.
+
+According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower of
+Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no proper
+floral envelope.
+
+To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered by many
+botanists as presenting an exception.
+
+Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural character
+which he has given of this genus, that I find it difficult to determine
+what his opinion of its structure really was. I am inclined, however, to
+believe it to have been much nearer the truth than is generally supposed;
+judging of it from a comparison of his essential with his artificial
+generic character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones,
+published by Giseke.*
+
+(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page 589.)
+
+But the first clear account that I have met with, of the real structure
+of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and apex of the female
+flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who describes them in the following
+manner: "Singula semina vel potius germina stigmati tanquam organo
+feminino gaudent,"* and his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in
+which the stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all
+doubt respecting his meaning.
+
+(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453 table 13 figure 23.)
+
+In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,* gives a
+similar account of structure, though somewhat less clearly as well as
+less decidedly expressed. In the observations that follow, he suggests,
+as not improbable, a very different view, founded on the supposed analogy
+with Araucaria, whose structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the
+inner scale of the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the
+outer scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was
+also Linnaeus' opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr. Lambert's
+splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803.
+
+(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.)
+
+(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.)
+
+In the same year in which Mr. Lambert's work appeared, Schkuhr*
+describes, and very distinctly figures, the female flower of Pinus,
+exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose opinion was probably unknown
+to him.
+
+(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table 308.)
+
+In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was published,* in
+which an account of structure is given, in no important particular
+different from that of Trew and Schkuhr, with whose observations he
+appears to have been unacquainted.
+
+(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page 308.)
+
+M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect to Pinus
+and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in conjunction with M.
+Schoubert,** he proposed a very different view of the structure of
+Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in their female flowers there is
+not only a minute cohering perianthium present, but an external
+additional envelope, to which he has given the name of cupula.
+
+(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 15 page 473.)
+
+(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73, 85 et 121.)
+
+In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the manner of
+impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.* But on
+reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had ascertained
+respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after altogether abandoned this
+opinion, without, however, venturing explicitly to state that now
+advanced, and which had then suggested itself.**
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.)
+
+(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society Transactions volume
+13 page 213.)
+
+It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very valuable
+memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears, from some
+observations lately published by his son, M. Achille Richard,* to have
+formed an opinion respecting their structure somewhat different from that
+of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is, according to him, the perianthium, more or
+less cohering with the included pistillum. He was probably led to this
+view, on ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of
+the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style being in
+reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous envelope, and the
+included body being evidently analogous to that in other genera of
+Coniferae.
+
+(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d' Hist. Nat. tome 4 page 395 et tome 5 page
+216.)
+
+(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 6 page 208.)
+
+To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which considers the
+female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked pistillum, there are
+two principal objections. The first of these arises from the perforation
+of the pistillum, and the exposure of that point of the ovulum where the
+embryo is formed to the direct action of the pollen; the second from the
+too great simplicity of structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have
+shown, accords better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary
+cases.
+
+To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection does not
+apply, but the second acquires such additional weight, as to render those
+opinions much less probable, it seems to me, than that which I have
+endeavoured to support.
+
+In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a question
+connected with it, and of some importance, would still remain, namely,
+whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are produced on an ovarium of
+reduced functions and altered appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle.
+In other words, in employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with
+some alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend,
+respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous plants,*
+whether the ovula in these two families originate in a modified leaf, or
+proceed directly from the stem.
+
+(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13 page 211.)
+
+Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing with the
+hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in the first place,
+to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so striking a resemblance to a
+partially altered frond or leaf, producing marginal ovula in one part,
+and in another being divided into segments, in some cases nearly
+resembling those of the ordinary frond.
+
+But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia is
+sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the fruit-bearing
+squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of Agathis or Dammara,
+Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the transition is not difficult.
+This view is applicable, though less manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and
+might even be extended to Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of
+these two genera admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have
+already adverted.
+
+If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really produced on
+the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though not necessarily, be
+expected that their male flowers should differ from those of all other
+phaenogamous plants, and in this difference exhibit some analogy to the
+structure of the female flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially
+in Zamia, the resemblance between the male and female spadices is so
+great, that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male
+spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its surface
+either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into masses, each
+furnished with its proper membrane.
+
+Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally paradoxical; yet
+the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who expresses himself on the
+subject in the following terms, Pulvis floridus in Cycade minime pro
+Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui
+unquam pollen antherarum in plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this
+opinion, so confidently held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other
+botanist, seems in part to have arisen from his having extended it to
+dorsiferous Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me
+so very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without examination. It
+receives, at least, some support from the separation, in several cases,
+especially in the American Zamiae, of the grains into two distinct, and
+sometimes nearly marginal, masses, representing, as it may be supposed,
+the lobes of an anthera; and also from their approximation in definite
+numbers, generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the
+grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other
+families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of pollen, with
+the thickening and regular bursting of their membrane, may be said to be
+circumstances obviously connected with their production and persistence
+on the surface of an anthera, distant from the female flower; and with
+this economy, a corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or
+fovilla might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I
+find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many
+antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a
+longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most common
+in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose, therefore,
+merely on the grounds already stated, that these particles are analogous
+to the fovilla, and the containing organs to the grains of pollen in
+antherae of the usual structure, would be entirely gratuitous. It is, at
+the same time, deserving of remark, that were this view adopted on more
+satisfactory grounds, a corresponding development might then be said to
+exist in the essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased
+development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the unusual form
+and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary importance, and whose
+nature is disputed, as in the state of the nucleus of the seed,
+respecting which there is no difference of opinion; and where the
+plurality of embryos, or at least the existence and regular arrangement
+of the cells in which they are formed, is the uniform structure in the
+family.
+
+(*Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775 page 518.)
+
+The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is considered
+as producing on its surface an indefinite number of pollen masses, each
+enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive its only support from a few
+remote analogies: as from those antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided
+into a definite, or more rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and
+especially from the structure of the stamina of Viscum album.
+
+I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers these
+grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which constitutes a
+male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal difficulties.
+
+(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 5 page 216.)
+
+The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae, the
+existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight more
+apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen is certainly
+not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to the lobe of an
+ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which each squama of the amentum
+produces two marginal lobes only, as Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium,
+Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it nearly resembles the more general form
+of the antherae in other Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs
+in those genera which have an increased number of lobes on each squama,
+as Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and
+apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in Cunninghamia, or
+Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in number, agree in this
+respect, as well as in insertion and direction, with the ovula. The
+supposition, that in such cases all the lobes of each squama are cells of
+one and the same anthera, receives but little support either from the
+origin and arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of
+other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though doubtful,
+analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in Aphyteia, and
+perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae.
+
+(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant to the late M.
+Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae, I added some remarks on
+its structure, agreeing with those here made. I at the same time
+requested that, if he objected to Mr. Salisbury's Belis as liable to be
+confounded with Bellis, the genus might be named Cunninghamia, to
+commemorate the merits of Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in
+his time, by whom this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan
+Cunningham, the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his
+first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and Captain King
+in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New Holland.)
+
+That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the analogy between
+the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and Coniferae, I consider the
+least satisfactory, both in regard to the immediate question of the
+existence of an anomalous ovarium in these families, and to the
+hypothesis repeatedly referred to, of the origin of the sexual organs of
+all phaenogamous plants.
+
+In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret that it should
+have so far exceeded the limits proper for its introduction into the
+present work. In giving an account, however, of the genus of plants to
+which it is annexed, I had to describe a structure, of whose nature and
+importance it was necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances
+have occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which
+determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I had
+originally intended.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX C.
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING,
+IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE,
+ON THE SHORES OF THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN
+FLINDERS.
+
+BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S., V.P.G.S.
+
+[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER, 1825.]
+
+The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of Australia,
+commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the eastern shore, about
+the latitude of twenty-two degrees, proceeding northward and westward:
+and as the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by
+Captain Flinders, were passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who
+accompanied the former, has been so good as to allow the specimens
+collected by himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm
+which would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and
+north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been previously
+visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin, I was desirous of
+obtaining such information as could be derived from the specimens
+collected during that expedition, and now remaining at Paris; although I
+was aware that the premature death of the principal mineralogist, and
+other unfavourable circumstances, had probably diminished their value:*
+But the collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list
+of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr. Brochant de
+Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen's Land; and that of the
+Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has obliged me with an account
+of, does not afford the information I had hoped for. I have availed
+myself of the notices relating to Physical Geography and Geology, which
+are dispersed through the published accounts of Captain Flinders',** and
+Baudin's Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to,
+form, I believe, the only sources of information at present existing in
+Europe, respecting the geological structure and productions of the north
+and western coasts of Australia.
+
+(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during the progress of the
+voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of his manuscripts were
+preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after publishing, in 1807, the first
+volume of the account of the expedition, died in 1810, before the
+appearance of the second volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page
+163.)
+
+(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in the years 1801, 1802,
+and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of the Investigator. Two volumes
+quarto with an atlas folio; London 1814.)
+
+(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres Australes etc. Tome 1
+redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de l'Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2
+redige par M. Peron et M. L. Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work,
+under the title of Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt.
+Freycinet in 1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the
+proceedings of the expedition; and affords some particulars connected
+with the physical geography of the places described, which are not to be
+found in the other volumes.)
+
+In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned by detail, I
+shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain King's and Mr. Brown's
+collections, a general sketch of the coast from whence they come,
+deduced, principally, from the large charts,* and from the narratives of
+Captains Flinders and King, with a summary of the geological information
+derived from the specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a
+more detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the great
+distance from each other of many of the places where they were found, and
+of the general interest attached to the productions of a country so very
+remote, of which the greater part is not likely to be often visited by
+geologists. The situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to
+be found in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be
+sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places.
+
+(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the Admiralty for general
+sale.)
+
+GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.
+
+The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude of about 28
+degrees, has a direction from south-east to north-west; and ranges of
+mountains are visible from the sea, with little interruption, as far
+north as Cape Weymouth, between the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From
+within Cape Palmerston, west of the Northumberland Islands, near the
+point where Captain King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of
+very irregular outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is
+continued for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break;
+and after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is
+again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in the front
+of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount Dryander, on the
+promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester, being more than four
+thousand five hundred feet high. Mount Eliot, with a peaked summit, a
+little to the south of Cape Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues
+distance; and Mount Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of
+Rockingham Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of
+Cape Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low
+land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a lofty
+group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible from the sea
+at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards the north decline
+gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach the shore, which they join
+at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12 degrees; and from that point
+northward, to Cape York, the land in general is comparatively low, nor do
+any detached points of considerable elevation appear there. But about
+midway between Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west
+of Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is
+conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills on the
+east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the mountains of the
+north and west coasts, to which names expressing their form have been
+applied.*
+
+(*Footnote. Jane's Table-Land, south-east of Princess Charlotte's Bay
+(about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount Adolphus, in one of the
+islands (about latitude 10 degrees 40 minutes) off Cape York, have also
+flat summits. King manuscripts.)
+
+The line of the coast above described retires at a point which
+corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the north
+of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the high land about
+that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than forty miles beyond the
+coastline between Princess Charlotte's Bay and the north-eastern point of
+Australia.
+
+The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred feet high,
+and the islands off that point are nearly of the same elevation.
+
+The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not having been
+explored, it is still probable that rivers, or considerable mountain
+streams, may exist there.
+
+Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found throughout a
+space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape Cleveland; Cape Grafton;
+Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at Clack's Island, on the north-west
+of the rocky mass which forms Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap
+formation have been obtained in three detached points among the islands
+off the shore; in the Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes;
+Sunday Island, north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in
+Good's Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34
+minutes.
+
+The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain Flinders,
+was not visited by Captain King; but the following account has been
+deduced from the voyage and charts of the former, combined with the
+specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who has also favoured me with an
+extract from the notes taken by himself on that part of the coast.
+
+The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is so low,
+that for a space of nearly six hundred miles--from Endeavour Strait to a
+range of hills on the mainland, west of Wellesley Islands, at the bottom
+of the gulf--no part of the coast is higher than a ship's masthead.* Some
+of the land in Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest
+island is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in
+height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence to Sir
+Edward Pellew's group. The rock observed on the shore at Coen River, the
+only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where Captain Flinders landed,
+was calcareous sandstone of recent concretional formation.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.)
+
+(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 158.)
+
+In Sweer's Island, one of Wellesley's Isles, a hill of about fifty or
+sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous stone, having
+the appearance of concretions rising irregularly about a foot above the
+general surface, without any distinct ramifications. The specimens from
+this place have evidently the structure of stalactites, which seem to
+have been formed in sand; and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the
+sand has been agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the
+west coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great
+abundance.
+
+The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat higher, and from
+Limmen's Bight to the latitude of Groote Eylandt, is lined by a range of
+low hills. On the north of the latter place, the coast becomes irregular
+and broken; the base of the country apparently consisting of primitive
+rocks, and the upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of
+the specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at Goulburn
+and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely distributed on
+the north-west. The shore at the bottom of Melville Bay is stated by
+Captain Flinders to consist of low cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of
+about eight miles in extent from east to west; and similar cliffs of
+pipe-clay are described as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate,
+volume 1) and at Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of
+which places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+Morgan's Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the north-west of
+Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and other rocks of the
+trap-formation occur in several places on this coast.
+
+The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of ancient
+sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone. Round Hill, near
+Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of Morgan's Island, is
+composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount Caledon, on the west side of
+Caledon Bay, seems likewise to consist of that rock, as does also
+Melville Island. This part of the coast has afforded the ferruginous
+oxide of manganese: and brown hematite is found hereabouts in
+considerable quantity, on the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming
+the cement of a breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in
+which the ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production;
+resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by Professor
+Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some time in sand.*
+
+(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July 1825 page 193.)
+
+The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from Limmen's Bight
+to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east; and three conspicuous
+ranges of islands on the north-western entrance of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, the appearance of which is so remarkable as to have
+attracted the attention of Captain Flinders,* have the same general
+direction: a fact which is probably not unconnected with the general
+structure of the country. The prevailing rock in all these islands
+appears to be sandstone.
+
+(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.)
+
+The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of Castlereagh
+Bay, where Captain King's survey was resumed, has also a direction from
+south-west to north-east, parallel to that of the ranges of islands just
+mentioned. The low land near the north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from
+thence to Goulburn Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet
+discovered in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream,
+named Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty miles
+from the coast, through a country not more than three feet in general
+elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low and muddy, and
+thickly wooded: And this description is applicable also to the Alligator
+Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen's Gulf, and to the surrounding
+country. The outline of the Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland
+between the Liverpool and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this
+range being thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear
+to be very numerous on the north-western coast.
+
+The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish sandstone, not to
+be distinguished from that which occurs beneath the coal formation in
+England. On the west of these islands the coast is more broken, and the
+outline is irregular: but the elevation is inconsiderable; the general
+height in Cobourg Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet
+above the sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four
+hundred feet.
+
+On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for the flatness
+of their tops; and the general outline of many of the islands, as seen on
+the horizon, is very striking and peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount
+Roe, on the south of Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of
+Melville Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin,
+south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills adjacent to
+Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the progress of the
+survey sufficiently indicate their form, as House-roofed, Bastion,
+Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount Casuarina, about forty miles
+north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port
+Warrender; and several of the islands off that port, York Sound, and
+Prince Regent's River; Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still
+further south, the whole of Moresby's flat-topped Range, are all
+distinguished by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except
+in a few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar and
+Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they have very much
+the aspect of the summits in the coal formation.*
+
+(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me, that in some of these
+cases, the shape of the hill is really that of a roof, or hayrick; the
+transverse section being angular, and the horizontal top an edge.)
+
+Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking southward
+from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about latitude 13 degrees 50
+minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50 minutes) has some resemblance to
+one of the views in Peron's Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of
+the Iles Forbin (plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits
+remarkably the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King's
+drawings (Sketch 2).
+
+The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west coasts, is also
+an appearance which is frequently noticed on the sketches taken by
+Captain King and his officers. This is conspicuous in the neighbourhood
+of Cape Croker; at Darch Island and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point
+Coombe in Mountnorris Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the
+north-west of Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe's River (Prince
+Frederic's Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are
+described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same hue; and
+the northern limit of Shark's Bay, Cape Cuvier of the French, latitude 24
+degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous bastion, may be
+distinguished at a considerable distance by its full red colour.*
+
+(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.)
+
+It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and Melville
+Islands, near the north-western extremity of New Holland, that a new
+colony has recently been established: (see Captain King's Narrative
+volume 2.) A permanent station under the superintendence of a British
+officer, in a country so very little known, and in a situation so remote
+from any other English settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting
+objects of natural history, and of illustrating various points of great
+interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be hoped
+will not be neglected. And as a very instructive collection, for the
+general purposes of geology, can readily be obtained in such situations,
+by attending to a few precautions, I have thought that some brief
+directions on this subject would not be out of place in the present
+publication; and have subjoined them to the list of specimens at the
+close of this paper.*
+
+(*Footnote. See hereafter.)
+
+In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the character of
+the country is entirely changed; and irregular ranges of detached rocky
+hills composed of sandstone, rising abruptly from extensive plains of low
+level land, supersede the low and woody coast, that occupies almost
+uninterruptedly the space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance
+of more than six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more
+than a swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a
+southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity precisely
+resemble the older sandstones of the confines of England and Wales.* The
+View (volume 1 plate) represents in the distance Mount Cockburn, at the
+head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat rocky top of which was supposed to
+consist of sandstone, but has also the aspect of the trap-formation. The
+strata in Lacrosse Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the
+north-west, at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their
+direction consequently being from north-east to south-west.
+
+(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the acceptation of
+Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on the South Western Coal
+District of England. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1.
+Captain King's specimens from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished
+from the slaty strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about
+two miles below Clifton.)
+
+From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an uniform coast of
+moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape Leveque, although the
+outline may be in a general view considered as ranging from north-east to
+south-west,* the coast is remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea
+irregularly studded with very numerous islands. The specimens from this
+tract consist almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge
+Gulf, Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the
+trap-formation appears to be associated.
+
+(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the general range of the
+shore, from the islands filling up the inlets.)
+
+York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the coast, is
+bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred feet in height; and
+some conical rocky peaks, which not improbably consist of quartz-rock,
+were noticed on the eastern side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch,
+by Captain King, shows that the banks of Hunter's River, one of the
+branches of York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are
+composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this place is
+also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one of the rarest
+phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable shores.*
+
+(*Footnote. Narrative 1.)
+
+The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been discovered in
+this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent's River, about thirty miles
+to the south-west of York Sound, the course of which is almost
+rectilinear for about fifty miles in a south-eastern direction; a fact
+which will probably be found to be connected with the geological
+structure of the country. The general character of the banks, which are
+lofty and abrupt, is precisely the same with that of the rivers falling
+into York Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be
+higher in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to
+four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained siliceous
+sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate above) shows that the
+beds are nearly horizontal, and very regularly disposed; the cascade
+there represented being about one hundred and sixty feet in height, and
+the beds from six to twelve feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills,
+which Captain King has named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the
+north-east of Prince-Regent's River, not far from its entrance, are
+remarkable for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize
+the trap formation. (Sketch 3.)
+
+(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.)
+
+The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape Leveque, has not
+yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears from Captain King's Chart
+(Number 5) to be intersected by several inlets of considerable size, to
+trace which to their termination is still a point of great interest in
+the physical geography of New Holland. The space thus left to be
+explored, from the Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more
+than one hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but
+islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One large
+inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque, appears to afford
+considerable promise of a river; and the rise of the tide within the
+Buccaneer's Archipelago, where there is another unexplored opening, is no
+less than thirty-seven feet.
+
+The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low, waving, and
+rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are remarkable in so many parts
+of the coast to the north, is also observable here, the colour of the
+rocks at Point Coulomb being of a deep red: but on the south of the high
+ground near that Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long
+tract, which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain
+King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by extensive
+shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a distance; so that a
+space of more than three hundred miles, from Point Gantheaume nearly to
+Cape Lambert, still remains to be accurately surveyed.
+
+Depuch Island, east of Dampier's Archipelago, about latitude 20 degrees
+30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as consisting in a
+great measure of columnar rocks, which they supposed to be VOLCANIC; and
+they found reason to believe that the adjoining continent was of the same
+materials.* It is not improbable, however, that this term was applied to
+columns belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has
+been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the drawings
+of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King's vessel, give reason to
+suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain King's specimens from
+Malus Island, in Dampier's Archipelago (sixty miles farther west) consist
+of greenstone and amygdaloid.
+
+(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.)
+
+The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier's Archipelago,
+latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of Cape Preston, in
+latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about fifteen miles in width,
+between rocky hills, which has not been explored. From thence to the
+bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than one hundred and fifty miles, the coast
+is low and sandy, and does not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of
+Exmouth Gulf itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating
+in the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as Cape
+Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five hundred
+feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast range.
+
+Several portions of the shore between Shark's Bay and Cape Naturaliste
+have been described in the account of Commodore Baudin's Expedition; but
+some parts still remain to be surveyed. From the specimens collected by
+Captain King and the French descriptions, it appears that the islands on
+the west of Shark's Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very
+recent formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other
+parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King George's
+Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the West Indian
+Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King's specimens of this
+production are from Dirk Hartog's and Rottnest Islands; and M. Peron
+states that the upper parts of Bernier and Dorre Islands are composed of
+a rock of the same nature. This part of the coast is covered in various
+places with extensive dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which
+both these and the calcareous formation repose, has not been ascertained.
+
+The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape to Dirk
+Hartog's Island, is from the east of north to the west of south. On the
+south of the latter place the land turns towards the east. High, rocky
+and reddish cliffs have been seen indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees;
+and a coast of the same aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about
+latitude 28 degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The
+hills called Moresby's flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax,
+latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a space of
+more than fifty miles from north to south.
+
+Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees, contains in
+abundance the calcareous concretions already mentioned; which seem there
+to consist in a great measure of the remains of recent shells, in
+considerable variety. The islands of this part of the shore have been
+described by MM. Peron and Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down
+to Cape Leeuwin, the south-western extremity of New Holland, having been
+sufficiently examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain
+King.
+
+(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168 etc.)
+
+Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast, latitude 31
+degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the French expedition,
+to the distance of about twenty leagues from its mouth; and found still
+to contain salt water. The rock in its neighbourhood consisted altogether
+of sandy and calcareous incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it
+is stated, shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this
+river and Cape Peron, a "great bay" was left unexplored.*
+
+(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page 5. 170.)
+
+The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main, between Cape
+Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the meridian for more
+than fifty miles, seems to have a base of granite, which, at Cape
+Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.* The same rock also occurs, among
+Captain King's specimens, from Bald-head in King George's Sound; but
+nearly on the summit of that hill, which is about five hundred feet high,
+were Found the ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as
+corals by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King's
+specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent limestone so
+abundant throughout these shores.
+
+(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.)
+
+(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D'Entrecasteaux 2 175. Freycinet 105.
+Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions hereafter; and Captain
+King's Narrative volume 1.)
+
+The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of Australia,
+which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described in the account of
+his voyage, and do not come within the object of the present paper.
+
+...
+
+
+GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.
+
+1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of Captain King
+and Mr. Brown, are the following:
+
+Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island;
+Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near C. Arnhem;
+Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George's Sound.
+
+Various Slaty Rocks:
+Mica-State: Mallison's I.
+Talc-State: Endeavour River.
+Slaty Clay: Inglis' I., Clack I., Percy I.
+Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo's Island; Halfway Bay, Prince Regent's River.
+
+Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west Coast.
+Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay.
+
+Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd's Bay; Islands of
+the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York Sound; Prince
+Regent's River.
+
+Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay.
+
+ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION.
+
+Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles.
+
+Sienite: Rodd's Bay.
+
+Porphyry: C. Cleveland.
+
+Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good's I.
+
+Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island.
+
+Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus I.
+
+Clinkstone: Morgan's I., Pobassoo's I.
+
+Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat Island;
+Malus I.
+
+Wacke ?: Bat Island.
+
+...
+
+Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer's Island, N. coast. Dirk Hartog's and
+Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George's Sound, South coast.
+
+The only information that has been published respecting the geology of
+New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages of Captain Flinders
+and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by Professor Buckland of some
+specimens collected during Mr. Oxley's Expedition to the River
+Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline of a paper by the Reverend
+Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of the Geology of New South Wales and
+Van Diemen's Land, which has been read before the Geological Society.**
+On these authorities, the following may be added to the preceding list of
+rocks:
+
+Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains the
+mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near the east
+coast; Van Diemen's Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts; Scott).
+
+The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen's Land.
+(Buckland-Scott.)
+
+Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by the
+occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)
+
+Oolite: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)
+
+(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 480.)
+
+(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed that Mr. Von Buch
+also has published a paper on the rocks of New Holland; but have not been
+so fortunate as to meet with it.
+
+Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to the Academy
+of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of M. Duperrey,
+performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been published; from whence
+I have subjoined an extract, in order to complete the catalogue of the
+rocks of Australia, according to the present state of our information.
+
+Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du Port
+Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup nos
+connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les echantillons,
+au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les granites, les
+syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites graphiques) qui
+cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues. 2. Les gres ferrugineux,
+et renfermant d'abondantes paillettes de fer oligiste, qui couvrent non
+seulement une vaste etendue de pays pres des cotes, mais encore le
+premier plan des Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu'on
+exploite au Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et
+dont la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres
+ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains
+tertiaires.
+
+Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen, dans les
+environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren, indiquent, 1. Des
+terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des terrains intermediaires
+coquilliers, formes du grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3.
+Des terrains tres-recens, composes d'argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse,
+avec geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On
+distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres, parmi les
+galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren: Bulletin des
+Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.)
+
+2. The specimens of Captain King's and Mr. Brown's collections, without
+any exception, agree with those of the same denominations from other
+parts of the world; and the resemblance is, in some instances, very
+remarkable: The sandstones of the west and north-west of New Holland are
+so like those of the west of England, and of Wales, that the specimens
+from the two countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the
+arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is
+precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper, chalcedony, and
+green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the entrance of Prince
+Regent's River, resemble those of the Tyrol, both in their characters and
+association. The Epidote of Port Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an
+additional proof of the general distribution of that mineral; which,
+though perhaps it may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more
+frequent occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been
+supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the latter
+in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in Mr.
+Greenough's cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales, Ireland, France,
+and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it extensively in the sienitic
+tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a pudding-stone, bearing some
+resemblance to the green breccia of Egypt, were found to be composed of
+compact epidote, including very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock,
+which itself contains a considerable proportion of this substance. And
+Mr. Greenough has recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J.
+Burton, junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from
+Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New Holland
+is added to these localities, it will appear that few minerals are more
+widely diffused.
+
+(*Footnote. See Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1816 page 297 to 300.)
+
+(**Footnote. Plee's Account of Jersey quarto Southampton 1817 page 231 to
+276.)
+
+3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of the hills in
+sight during the progress of the survey of the Coasts of Australia,
+accord in a very striking manner with the geological character of the
+shore. Those from the east coast, where the rocks are primitive,
+representing strongly marked and irregular outlines of lofty mountains,
+and frequently, in the nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined.
+The outlines on the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western
+shores, are most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and
+diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none of which
+are very lofty.
+
+4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the collections,
+respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a class of phenomena which
+is of the highest interest, in an island of such vast extent, so very
+remote in situation, and of which the existing animals are so different
+from those of other parts of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no
+limestone is among the specimens from the northern and western shores,
+except that of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are
+hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that limestone
+cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places visited. No eruptive
+mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic eruption, have yet been
+observed in any part of Australia.
+
+5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed description will be
+found in the subjoined list of specimens, is one of the most remarkable
+productions of New Holland: It was found, during the expedition of
+Commodore Baudin, to exist throughout a space of no less than twenty-five
+degrees of latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern,
+west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown's specimens it appears
+to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The full account
+which M. Peron has given of this formation, sufficiently shows its
+resemblance to the very recent limestone, full of marine shells, which
+abounds on the shores of the Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and
+in several other parts of the world: And it is a point of the greatest
+interest in geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really
+be drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern formation,
+which occur immediately upon the shore; and other calcareous
+accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not identical, both in the
+fossils they contain, and in the characters of the cementing substances,
+that are found in several countries, at considerable heights above the
+sea.
+
+(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216 etc.)
+
+Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation, which occurs
+upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a firmly-compacted
+cream-coloured stone, composed of granular fragments of shells,
+agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The stone of Guadaloupe, containing
+the human skeletons, is likewise of the same nature; and its very recent
+production cannot be doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes,
+and of pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain
+Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ only in
+colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and with the
+calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island, in the gradual melting down
+of the cement into the included portions, which is one of the most
+remarkable features of that rock.**** A calcareous compound, apparently
+of the same kind, has been recently mentioned, as of daily production in
+Anastasia Island, on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be
+found to be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And
+Captain Beaufort's account of the process by which the gravelly beach is
+cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other places on the coast of
+Karamania, on the north-east of the Mediterranean,****** accords with M.
+Peron's description of the progress from the loose and moveable sands of
+the dunes to solid masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also,
+there are hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably
+elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of Travels in
+Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean recently published by the
+Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen these concretions in Calabria,
+and on the coasts of the Adriatic; but still more remarkably in the
+narrow strip of recent land (called the Placca) which connects Leucadia,
+one of the Ionian Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a
+work of art, that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone
+composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones in the
+Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing more than
+gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the accretion of which is
+supposed to be rapidly advancing at the present day.
+
+(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.)
+
+(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to 57.)
+
+(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series volume 1 page 172.)
+
+(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814 page 107 etc.)
+
+(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars 1825.)
+
+(******Footnote. Beaufort's Description of the South Coast of Asia Minor
+etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180 to 184 etc. In the
+neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of calcareous matter from the
+water is so copious that an old watercourse had actually crept upwards to
+a height of nearly three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was
+such that some specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony
+crust was already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but
+imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less extraordinary
+M. Peron's statement that the excrements of kangaroos had been found
+concreted by calcareous matter. Peron volume 2 page 116.)
+
+(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.)
+
+The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia, that I have
+seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to the Bristol
+Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the geology of Sicily;*
+which prove that the arenaceous breccia of New Holland is very like that
+which occupies a great part of the coast, almost entirely around that
+island. Some of Dr. Daubeny's specimens from Monte Calogero, above
+Sciacca, consist of a breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery
+limestone, united by a cement, composed of minute grains of
+quartzose-sand disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely
+that of the breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island: and a compound of this kind,
+replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing species,
+fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of Sicily; and is
+described as occurring, in several places, at very considerable heights
+above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it constitutes hills some hundred feet
+in height; near Girgenti, all the most elevated spots are crowned with a
+loose stratum of the same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni,
+said to be 2880 feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But
+although the concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of
+the shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more ancient
+formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would probably be
+referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris basin.
+
+(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825 pages 116, 117, 118, and
+254 to 255.)
+
+The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like the less
+compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by Captain Vetch,
+and already referred to:* and the rock in both these cases, nearly
+approaches to some of the coarser oolites of England.
+
+(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the Geological Society.)
+
+The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens of recent
+breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin du Roi, to those of
+St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the detail given by Mr. Allan in
+his sketch of the geology of that neighbourhood;** in which the perfect
+preservation of the shells, and their near approach to those of the
+adjoining sea at the present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is
+inferred that the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to
+that of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds,
+likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined the
+place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs at St.
+Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the sea, as
+containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a peine fossiles)
+and he describes the mass in which they occur, as belonging to a
+formation still more recent than the upper marine beds of the environs of
+Paris.***
+
+(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See hereafter.)
+
+(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh volume 8 1818
+page 427 etc. See also the previous publications of M. Risso Journal des
+Mines tome 34 etc.)
+
+(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles; 2nd Edit. volume 2
+page 427.)
+
+The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably more
+recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and generally than
+the Paris and London strata, accords with the date which has hitherto
+been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk, Essex, and Norfolk:* but later
+observations render doubtful the opinion generally received respecting
+the age of these remarkable deposits, and a full and satisfactory account
+of them is still a desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our
+imperfect acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very
+modern limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the
+continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be questioned
+(though probably the greater part of the masses which consist of them may
+belong to an era preceding the actual condition of the earth's surface)
+it would seem that the whole subject of these newer calcareous formations
+requires elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not
+throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally
+received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be learned
+respecting the operations and products of the most recent geological
+epochs, than is commonly supposed.
+
+(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page 11, Geological
+Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological Transactions 2nd series
+Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the important fact that the remains
+of unknown animals are buried together with the shells in the crag of
+Suffolk; but does not mention the nature of these remains. Since these
+pages have been at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex
+and Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me that
+the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the diluvial
+gravel, including the remains of the elephant, rhinoceros, stag, etc.)
+
+(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the formation of recent
+limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the bottom of lakes in Scotland,
+have been read before the Geological Society by Mr. Lyell, and will
+appear in the volume of the Transactions now in the press. See Annals of
+Philosophy 1825 page 310.)
+
+Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is continually
+going on at the present time, and has probably taken place at all times,
+the stone thus formed, independent of the organized bodies which it
+envelopes, will afford no criterion of its date, nor give any very
+certain clue to the revolutions which have subsequently acted upon it.
+But as MARINE shells are found in the cemented masses, at heights above
+the sea, to which no ordinary natural operations could have conveyed
+them, the elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of
+the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some other
+agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their great
+quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same places, make
+it more probable that they lay originally in the situations where we now
+find them, than that they have been transported from any considerable
+distances, or elevated by any very turbulent operation. Captain de
+Freycinet, indeed, mentions that patellae, worn by attrition, and other
+recent shells, have been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the
+top of a wall of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought
+up by the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in the
+breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights too great, and
+their preservation is too perfect, to admit of this mode of conveyance;
+and to account for their existence in such situations, recourse must be
+had to more powerful means of transport.
+
+(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such situations may
+often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on their inhabitants. At
+Madeira, where recent shells are found near the coast at a considerable
+height above the sea, the Gulls have been seen carrying up the living
+patellae, just taken from the rocks.)
+
+The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent appearance, at
+considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts of New Holland, Timor,
+and several other islands of the south, was justly considered by M. Peron
+as demonstrating the former abode of the sea above the land; and very
+naturally suggested an inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to
+which this change of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar
+appearances at Pulo Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of
+Sumatra, Dr. Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island
+must at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, that
+by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the transition must
+have been effected with little violence or disturbance to the marine
+productions at the surface,** he concludes, that the phenomena are in
+favour of a HEAVING UP OF THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable
+nature of this force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated,
+by the phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in
+November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen hundred
+miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the clearest evidence,
+that after formidable shocks of earthquake, repeated with little
+interruption during the whole night of the 19th of November (and the
+shocks were continued afterwards, at intervals, for several months) IT
+APPEARED, on the morning of the 20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM
+NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED
+ABOVE ITS FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about
+three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the
+fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known to exist
+there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation was about four
+feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to examine the coast, although
+it was high-water, I found the ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry,
+with beds of oysters, mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on
+which they grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive
+effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had been
+raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; several
+ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH SHELLS,
+extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the height of fifty
+feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of geological evidence, from
+different quarters and distinct classes of phenomena, concurs to
+demonstrate the existence of most powerful expansive forces within the
+earth, and to testify their agency in producing the actual condition of
+its surface, that the phenomena just now described are nothing more than
+what was to be expected from previous induction. These facts, however,
+not only place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show
+that, even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the
+predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable to
+conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same character have
+been produced by the same cause, though we may not at present be enabled
+to trace its connexion with the existing appearances so distinctly; and
+though the facts, when they occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may
+have taken place at periods beyond the reach of historical record, or
+even beyond the possibility of human testimony.
+
+(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to 183.)
+
+(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 403,
+404.)
+
+(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are those of Mrs. Graham,
+in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has been published in the Geological
+Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is
+supported and illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal
+Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of this
+latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot of the Andes
+to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the greatest rise being
+at the distance of about two miles from the shore. The rise upon the
+coast was from two to four feet: at the distance of a mile, inland, it
+must have been from five to six, or seven feet, pages 40, 45.)
+
+M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern breccia of New
+Holland to the large proportion of calcareous matter, principally in the
+form of comminuted shells, which is diffused through the siliceous sand
+of the shores in that country;* and as the temperature, especially of the
+summer, is very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been
+principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by the
+percolating water, may possibly render its formation more abundant there,
+than in more temperate climates. But the true theory of these
+concretions, under any modification of temperature, is attended with
+considerable difficulty: and it is certain that the process is far from
+being confined to the warmer latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of
+a modern formation of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;**
+where a large surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes
+agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the rocks
+of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, resemble
+those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological Society, from the
+shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this concretion, not to the agency of
+the sea, nor to an excess of carbonic acid, but to the solution of
+carbonate of lime itself in water, and subsequent percolation through
+calcareous sand; the great hardness of the stone arising from the very
+sparing solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual
+formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous
+concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present a great
+variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less complicated, and
+often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and which appear to be
+analogous to those of King George's Sound and Sweer's Island: And he
+mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in sand, in different parts of
+England (the sand above the fossil bones of Norfolk is given as an
+example) long cylinders or tubes, composed of sand agglutinated by
+carbonate of lime, or calcareous stalactites entangling sand, which, like
+the concretions of Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have
+been ranked improperly, with organic remains.
+
+(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page 116.)
+
+(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall volume 1
+page 1 etc.)
+
+(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, etc. Quarterly Journal
+Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 page 79 to 83.)
+
+The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New Holland, is
+very nearly the same with that of the cement by which they are united,
+the difference consisting only in the greater proportion of sand which
+the fragments contain: and it would seem, that after the consolidation of
+the former, and while the deposition of similar calcareous matter was
+still in progress, the portions first consolidated must have been
+shattered by considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist,
+the unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and even
+the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the paste which
+surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by some process
+analogous to what takes place in the preparation of the compound of which
+the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; where, though the ingredients
+are divided by mechanical attrition only, a sort of chemical action
+produces, under certain circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.*
+And this explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular
+concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the paste in
+which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from conglomerates of
+mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a difficulty in geology. What
+the degree may be, of subdivision required to dispose the particles to
+act thus upon each other, or of fluidity to admit of their action,
+remains still to be determined.
+
+(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are combined for the use of
+the potter, by being first separately diffused in water to the
+consistence of thick cream, and when mixed in due proportion are reduced
+to a proper consistence by evaporation. During this process, if the
+evaporation be not rapid and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to
+act on each other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite
+into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of the
+manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, I believe,
+is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend Mr. Arthur Aikin.
+And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar change takes place in
+recently precipitated carbonate of copper; which, if left long moist,
+concretes into hard gritty grains, of a green colour, much more
+difficultly soluble in ammonia than the original precipitate.)
+
+6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than three-fourths of
+that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded as unknown,* any
+theoretic inferences, from the slight geological information hitherto
+obtained respecting this great island, are very likely to be deceitful;
+but among the few facts already ascertained respecting the northern
+portion of it, there are some which appear to afford a glimpse of general
+structure.
+
+Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of islands on
+the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the English Company's, and
+Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had "frequently observed a great
+similarity both in the ground plans, and the elevations of hills, and of
+islands, in the vicinity of each other, but did not recollect another
+instance of such a likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."*
+The appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of so
+much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must probably have
+been very remarkable; and, combined with information derivable from the
+charts, and from the specimens for which we are indebted to Captain King
+and Mr. Brown, they would seem to point out the arrangement of the strata
+on the northern coasts of New Holland.
+
+(*Footnote. The following are the proportions assigned by Captain de
+Freycinet to the principal divisions of the globe. Voyage aux Terres
+Australes page 107.
+
+COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE.
+COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE.
+COLUMN 3: PROPORTION.
+
+Asia : 2,200,000 : 17.
+America : 2,100,000 : 17.
+Africa : 1,560,000 : 12.
+Europe : 501,875 : 4.
+Australia : 384,375 : 3.
+
+The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to which the
+late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has never yet been
+examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 miles, in a direct line
+from the sea; the average width of the island from east to west being
+more than 2000 miles, and from north to south more than 1000 miles.)
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates 14 and 15. King's
+Charts, Plate 4.)
+
+Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice (see the
+Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that which includes
+the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the coast of Arnhem's Land,
+from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles; and its
+length, from the mainland (3) on the south-west of Mallison's Island, to
+Bromby's Isles (7) is more than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from
+south-west to north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a
+distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the general
+trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) is nearly
+North-East by East,  parallel with the line of the main coast, and with
+Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) the third or most
+northern chain, at fourteen miles from the second range, stretch out to
+more than eighty miles from the mainland, likewise in the same direction.
+
+It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the English
+Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly to the water on
+their west sides; but on the east, and more especially the south-east,
+they present steep cliffs; and the same conformation, he adds, seemed to
+prevail in the other islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or
+two instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it obtains in
+so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of the ranges, it is
+not improbably of still more extensive occurrence, and would intimate a
+general elevation of the strata towards the south-east.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.)
+
+Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the lines of the
+coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, between Limmen's
+Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point
+Dale--less distinctly from Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes,
+longitude 129 degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg
+Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 minutes,
+longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, have nearly the
+same direction; the first line being about one hundred and eighty
+geographical miles, the second more than three hundred, and the last more
+than four hundred miles, in length.* And these lines, though broken by
+numerous irregularities, especially on the north-west coast, are yet
+sufficiently distinct to indicate a probable connexion with the
+geological structure of the country; since the coincidence of similar
+ranges of coast with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very
+frequent occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable
+that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the different
+places in this quarter of New Holland which have been hitherto examined;
+sandstone, like that of the older formations of Europe occurring
+generally on the north and north-west coasts, and appearing to be
+extensively diffused on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, where
+it reposes upon primitive rocks.***
+
+(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast of Timor, the
+nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of about 300 miles, is
+also nearly straight, and parallel to the Coast of New Holland in this
+quarter: part of the mountainous range, of which that island consists,
+being probably more than 9000 feet high; and its length, from the
+north-eastern extremity to the South-West of the adjoining island of
+Rottee, about 300 miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain
+of islands immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a
+right line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the
+south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO WEST. This
+chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including those of Sumbawa,
+the eruption of which, in 1815, was of extraordinary violence. See Royal
+Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 page 248 etc.
+
+At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the north-west
+coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: their direction
+consequently is from South-West to North-East; and the rise towards the
+high land of Timor. The intervening sea is very shallow.)
+
+(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which has not, I believe,
+been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; and is conspicuous in the new
+chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica
+and Sardinia, for a space of more than two hundred geographical miles
+being nearly rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and,
+Captain Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or,
+at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another
+instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges in the
+interior of England furnish several examples of the same kind, on a
+smaller scale.)
+
+(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to those
+above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of Carpentaria to
+Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, and from Cape Domett to
+Cape Londonderry--have also a certain degree of linearity; but much less
+remarkable, than those which run from South-West to North-East.)
+
+The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of Australia,
+and may possibly have some connexion with the structure just pointed out.
+The western shore of this horn, from the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour
+Straits, being very low; while the land on the east coast rises in
+proceeding towards the south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude
+12 degrees 30 minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain
+King's specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in
+so many places along this line as to make it probable that primitive
+rocks may form the general basis of the country in that quarter; since a
+lofty chain of mountains is continued on the south of Cape Tribulation,
+not far from the shore, throughout a space of more than five hundred
+miles. It would carry this hypothesis too far to infer that these
+primitive ranges are connected with the mountains on the west of the
+English settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has
+described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port Stevens,
+about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 degrees, and as
+succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue Mountains, by sandstone, and
+this again by primitive strata:* But it may be noticed that Wilson's
+Promontory, the most southern point of New South Wales, and the principal
+islands in Bass Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur
+extensively in Van Diemen's Land.
+
+(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June 1824.)
+
+The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some other
+quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that of the
+principal openings, has a general tendency to a course from the west of
+south to the east of north. This, for example, is the general range of
+the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape
+Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees;
+and of the western coast, from the south of the islands which enclose
+Shark's Bay, latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22
+degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to Cape
+Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs nearly on the
+meridian. The two great fissures of the south coast, Spencer's, and St.
+Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great northern chasm of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, have a corresponding direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart
+4) represents a high ridge of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of
+Spencer's Gulf, as continued, nearly from north to south, through a space
+of more than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees
+7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this ridge,
+about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the distance of
+twenty leagues.
+
+The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a general
+parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of the existence of
+primary ranges of mountains on the east of Australia in general, from the
+coast about Cape Weymouth* to the shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape
+Howe. But it must not be forgotten, that the distance between these
+shores is more than a thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as
+from the west coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance
+between the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches
+should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will be
+supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by Mr.
+Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to explain it) to be
+established by geological observation in so many other parts of the
+world, that the outcrop of the inclined beds, throughout the stratified
+portion of the globe, is everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of
+mountains, towards which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed.
+But in the present state of our information respecting Australia, all
+such general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that the
+desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the best excuse
+that can be offered for having proposed them.
+
+(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great Australian Bight,
+the coast of which in general is of no great elevation, with the
+deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, as it were, to a division
+of this great island into two, accords with this hypothesis of mountain
+ranges: but the distance between these recesses, over the land at the
+nearest points, is not less than a thousand English miles. The granite,
+on the south coast, at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle
+Island, Cape Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very
+wide of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its
+relations.)
+
+(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. Philosophical Transactions 1760
+volume 51 page 566 to 585, 586.)
+
+...
+
+
+DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.
+
+The specimens mentioned in the following list have been compared with
+some of those of England and other countries, principally in the cabinets
+of the Geological Society, and of Mr. Greenough; and with a collection
+from part of the confines of the primitive tracts of England and North
+Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain
+King's collection has been presented to the Geological Society; and
+duplicates of Mr. Brown's specimens are deposited in the British Museum.
+
+RODD'S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King, about sixty
+miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of moderately-fine
+grain, resembling that which in England occurs in the coal formation, and
+beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic compound, consisting of a large
+proportion of reddish felspar, with specks of a green substance, probably
+mica; resembling a rock from Shap in Cumberland.
+
+(*Footnote. In Captain King's collection are also specimens found on the
+beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of the Hastings River, of common
+serpentine, and of botryoidal magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The
+magnesite agrees nearly with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See
+Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.)
+
+CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd's Bay and the Percy Islands. Porphyritic
+conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar, enclosing grains of
+quartz and common felspar, and some fragments of what appears to be
+compact epidote; very nearly resembling specimens from the trap rocks* of
+the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy
+clay, coloured by oxide of iron, and used as pigments by the natives.
+
+(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation, which I am aware are
+extremely vague, I intend merely to signify a class of rocks, including
+several members, which differ from each other considerably in
+mineralogical character, but agree in some of their principal geological
+relations; and the origin of which very numerous phenomena concur in
+referring to some modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone
+also is of very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide
+range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of green,
+the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief ingredients
+supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the components, if they could
+be accurately determined, probably more numerous and varied, than
+systematic lists imply.)
+
+PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape Capricorn.
+Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few small crystals of
+reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is marked "general character
+of the rocks at Percy Island," and very much resembles the compact
+felspar of the Pentland Hills near Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse
+porphyritic conglomerate, of a reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like
+compound, with somewhat the aspect of serpentine, but yielding with
+difficulty to the knife. This specimen has, at first sight, the
+appearance of a conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues,
+purplish, brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise
+distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a rock which
+occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at Pont-y-Pool, in
+Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica, like that which
+frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of coal.
+
+REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty miles
+north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens, apparently
+consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound of quartz, mica, and
+felspar, having the appearance of re-composed granite.
+
+CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of Repulse
+Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; "from the summit of the
+hill." Reddish granite, of very fine grain; with the aspect of sandstone.
+Dark grey porphyritic hornstone, approaching to compact felspar, with
+imbedded crystals of felspar.
+
+CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north from Cape
+Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey granite, with brown
+mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of quartz, felspar, and
+tourmaline.
+
+ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from Cape Grafton.
+Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked hill under Mount Cook
+and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of several varieties: and
+indistinct specimens of a rock approaching to talc-slate.
+
+LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour River. Grey
+granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz, and a large
+proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed.
+
+CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape Melville,
+about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island. Smoke-grey micaceous
+slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the old red sandstone, where it
+graduates into grey wacke. This specimen was taken from a horizontal bed
+about ten feet in thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which
+included large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of
+sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.)
+
+SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and seventy miles
+west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar, of a flesh-red colour;
+very nearly resembling that of the Percy Islands, above-mentioned.
+
+GOOD'S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about latitude 10
+degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York. The specimens, in Mr.
+Brown's collection from this place, consist of coarse-slaty porphyritic
+conglomerate, with a base of greenish-grey compact felspar, containing
+crystals of reddish felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to
+that of Clack Island above-mentioned.
+
+SWEER'S ISLAND, south of Wellesley's group, at the bottom of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose sand, and fine gravel,
+cemented by reddish carbonate of lime; apparently of the same nature with
+the stem-like concretions of King George's Sound: (See hereafter.) In
+this specimen the tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open.
+
+The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to consist of red
+ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes unmixed, but not
+unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous stone; and in some places
+rounded portions of the ferruginous matter were enveloped in a calcareous
+cement.
+
+BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer's Island. A granular compound, like sandstone
+recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown hematite, enclosing
+quartzose sand.
+
+PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington's Island, is composed of
+calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist of a sandy calcareous
+cement, including water-worn portions of reddish ferruginous matter, with
+fragments of shells.
+
+NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew's group. Coarse siliceous sand,
+concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some places, is in the state
+of brown hematite. Calcareous incrustations, including fragments of
+madrepores, and of shells, cemented by splintery carbonate of lime.
+
+CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen's Bight, was found by Mr. Brown to be
+composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this place,
+however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces of a slaty
+structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to chalcedony; with a
+coarse variety of cacholong, containing small nests of quartz crystals.
+
+GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two different varieties
+occur among the specimens. A quartzose reddish sandstone, of moderately
+fine grain; and a coarse reddish compound, consisting almost exclusively
+of worn pebbles of quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in
+diameter, with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is
+nearly identical with that of Simms' Island, near Goulburn's Island on
+the north coast.
+
+CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY'S ISLAND, are of the same
+materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found also on the western
+shore of BLUE-MUD BAY.
+
+On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a little north
+of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the common sandy calcareous
+stone, projecting here and there in ragged fragments.
+
+MORGAN'S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote Eylandt, is
+composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes indistinctly columnar. But
+among the specimens are also a coarse conglomerate of a dull purplish
+colour, including pebbles of granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty
+rock like potstone: the hue and aspect of the compound being precisely
+those of the oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform
+and fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by
+ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation.
+
+ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north from Blue-Mud
+Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at the upper part, of
+sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its vicinity are, dark grey
+granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss, with a few specks of garnet; and
+a calcareous, probably concretional stone, enclosing the remains of
+shells, with cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar.
+
+MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists of grey
+granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on the sides and top
+of the hill large loose blocks of that rock were observed, resting upon
+other blocks.
+
+A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite, in which
+the felspar has a bluish hue.
+
+Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.* A
+botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching to
+hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of lime.
+
+(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and bays on this part of
+the coast is represented in the enlarged Map.)
+
+MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish felspar, dark
+brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute disseminated specks of
+molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale red garnet.
+
+RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first chain of
+islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map, figure 3.) Friable
+conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour, consisting of minute grains of
+quartz, with a large proportion of ochreous matter.
+
+MALLISON'S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island are
+composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone reposes in
+regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles gneiss, or mica slate,
+near the contact with granite: the sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose,
+of a reddish hue, with mica disseminated on the surfaces of the joints;
+and one face of the specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly
+coated with botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine
+grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in this
+island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of sandstone,
+cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown hematite, was found
+there, in loose blocks at the bottom of perpendicular cliffs. The
+specimen of this breccia is attached to a plate of granular quartz, and
+may possibly have been part of a vein.
+
+The shore of INGLIS' ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH COMPANY'S RANGE
+(2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of a slaty argillaceous
+rock, which breaks into rhomboidal fragments; but the specimen is
+indistinct. Ferruginous masses, probably consisting of brown hematite,
+come also from this island.
+
+ASTELL'S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis' Isle. Very fine-grained
+greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of Mallison's
+Island, and very closely resembling some of the specimens from Prince
+Regent's and Hunter's Rivers.
+
+Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET'S, COTTON'S, and
+POBASSOO's Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to consist, in a great measure,
+of sandstone, of the same character with the specimens above-mentioned.
+
+POBASSOO'S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell's Isle.
+Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of sandstone
+is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently composed of the
+debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting of greenish-grey
+hornblende, with a very small proportion of felspar (Hornblende rock ?).
+Fragment, apparently from a columnar mass, of a stone intermediate
+between clink-stone and compact felspar.
+
+Such of the English Company's Islands as were examined by Captain
+Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper part, of a grit, or
+sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part being argillaceous, and
+stratified, and separating into pieces of a reddish colour, resembling
+flat tiles. The strata-dip to the west, at an angle of about 15 degrees.
+
+South-west bay of GOULBURN'S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and fifty miles
+west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1). Coarse-grained reddish
+quartzose conglomerate and sandstone; resembling the older sandstones of
+England and Wales, and especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal
+formation. Fine greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in
+thickness were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned.
+Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of quartz,
+from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff from which these
+specimens were taken, is represented in the view of the bay on the south
+of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a distant head in the view consists of
+the same materials.
+
+SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn's south Island (Narrative 1) is
+composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly identical with some of the
+specimens above-mentioned.
+
+The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE ISLAND,
+consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn's Island; the upper
+part being red, the lower white and composed of pipe-clay. The western
+extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY,
+is also formed of cliffs of a very dark red colour.
+
+LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one hundred miles
+from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone; from a stratum which
+dips to the south-east, at an angle of about ten or fifteen degrees.
+Micaceous and argillaceous fissile sandstone, of purplish and greenish
+hues, in patches, or occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the
+rock of Brecon, in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of
+the vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales.
+Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the coal
+formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large masses, under an
+argillaceous cliff, on the north side of Lacrosse Island.
+
+The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from ADOLPHUS
+ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more or less
+decomposed.
+
+VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west of Cambridge
+Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock. Indistinct specimens
+of greenstone, with adhering quartz; apparently a primitive rock.
+
+PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty miles
+south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote and quartz, in
+small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently from veins, or nests,
+but unaccompanied by any portion of the adjacent rock. The structure in
+one of these specimens approaches to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish
+stone, with disseminated crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and
+apparently consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also
+among the specimens from Port Warrender.
+
+All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the foot of
+Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit of the head is
+flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity are described by Captain
+King as consisting of siliceous sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from
+amygdaloid of the trap formation, was also found at Port Warrender.
+
+The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish colour, but is
+mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into, spots of a rich
+purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally the epidote of Dauphiny
+and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been so good as to examine them,
+informs me that the crystals exhibit some modifications not described
+either by Hauy, or by Mr. Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and
+which are probably peculiar to this locality.
+
+WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the south-west
+entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as consisting of
+quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in Montagu Sound. And the
+same rock appears to occur throughout the islands on this part of the
+coast. (Narrative 1.)
+
+MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of ADMIRALTY GULF
+(Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that of the Lickey Hill, in
+Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose sandstone, of a purplish hue,
+resembling a rock on the banks of the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and
+reddish sandstone; apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very
+nearly resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned.
+
+HUNTER'S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east side. Somewhat
+coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the coal formation, and some
+varieties of millstone grit. Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose
+sandstone, having the appearance of stratification, and resembling the
+rocks of Cambridge Gulf.
+
+ROE'S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound (Narrative 1) runs
+between precipitous banks of sandstone, in nearly horizontal strata,
+which rise to the height of three hundred feet.
+
+CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent's River (Narrative
+volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline epidote, and whitish
+quartz, apparently from a vein. Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests
+or concretions of green epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid.
+Conglomerate, containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock,
+in a base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of
+epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place. Flat
+lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey quartzose sandstone,
+with traces of a slaty structure, resembling that of York Sound, and
+Cambridge Gulf, was found in the north-east end of this bay; and
+fine-grained greenstone, on the summit of the adjacent hills.
+
+Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of Port
+Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about sixty miles.
+
+BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening Bay. Quartz
+from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock, probably
+chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated hematitic iron-ore and
+copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with chalcedony, from nodules in
+amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony
+and copper pyrites. A decomposed stone, probably consisting of wacke. The
+specimens of trap-rocks from this place are from a cavern.
+
+GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent's River. Reddish,
+coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal strata, intersected
+by veins of crystallized quartz.*
+
+(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.)
+
+HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent's River on the west of the entrance,
+near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing with that of
+Pobassoo's Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (see
+above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in amygdaloid. Greenish
+quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red, somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with
+quartz and chalcedony, and containing specular iron ore.
+
+The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from Sotto i
+Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have seen in the
+collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of reddish jasper with
+chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like heliotrope, the whole
+belonging to the trap-formation.
+
+POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about one hundred
+and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent's River. Very compact and
+fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a glistening lustre, and flat
+conchoidal fracture. This stone, though so compact in the recent
+fracture, has distinct traces of stratification on the decomposed
+surface, which is of a dull reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular
+quartz (Eisen-kiesel ?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous
+texture. A specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of
+very fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble,
+consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark purplish-brown
+colour, and considerable density, was found here; near a fireplace of the
+natives, by whom it is used for making their hatchets; with a fragment of
+a calcareous incrustation, like that of the west coast hereafter
+mentioned.
+
+The next specimens in Captain King's collection--a space of more than
+three hundred miles on this coast not having been examined by him--are
+from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier's Archipelago (see Narrative volume 1) they
+consist of fine-grained greenstone, and what appears to be a basaltic
+rock, of amygdaloidal structure.
+
+DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND, west of Shark's Bay. A compound of rather
+fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by carbonate of lime,
+of various shades of reddish and yellowish grey. This stone has in some
+places the structure of a breccia; the angles of the imbedded fragments,
+which are from half an inch to two inches in diameter, being very
+distinct--but in other parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of
+roundish nodules, composed of concentric shells--or bags as it were, of
+calcareous matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of
+the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between these
+nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.*
+
+(*Footnote. The following description given by the French naturalists of
+the rocks at Bernier's Islands, was probably taken from a large suite of
+specimens; and M. Peron states (1 page 204) that it is strictly
+applicable to all the adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands
+that were examined by the French voyagers:
+
+Le sable du rivage (de l'ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele d'une grande
+proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues. La substance de l'ile
+meme se compose, dans ses couches inferieures, d'un gres calcaire
+coquillier, tantot blanchatre, tantot rougeatre, depose par couches
+horizontales, dont l'epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces)
+et qui toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient
+offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement
+taillees.
+
+Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont presque toutes
+univalves; elles apartiennent plus particulierement au genre Natice de M.
+de Lamarck, et ont les plus grands rapports avec l'espece de Natice qui
+se trouve vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute
+petrifiees depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu'il est tres difficile
+de les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion avec
+eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres (150 pieds) au
+dessus du niveau actuel de la mer.
+
+Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur disposition
+generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes dans leur substance;
+il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches plus remarquable par sa
+structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires, agreges dans une terre
+sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est tellement adherente, qu'on ne sauroit
+detruire cette espece de gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces
+galets affectent la forme globlueuse, et se composent d'un grand nombre
+de zones concentriques, qui se developpent autour d'un noyau central d'un
+gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine quelques
+millimitres d'epaisseur, et affectent des nuances agreables, qui varient
+depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu'au jaune-clair. La disposition generale de
+cette breche lui donne donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit
+globuleux de l'ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques,
+elle a quelque chose de l'aspect des Agathes-Onyx...Les bancs de gres
+divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la masse
+entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110. See also
+Freycinet page 187.)
+
+The cementing limestone in the rock of this island, is very like some of
+the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe, which contains the
+human skeletons, the hardness and fracture being nearly the same in both.
+The chief difference of these rocks seems to arise from the nature of the
+cemented substances; which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves
+calcareous, are incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by
+insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk Hartog's
+Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous matter that surrounds
+it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments in the latter consist of
+limestone, their union with the cement is complete.
+
+(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig's Paper. Philosophical Transactions volume 104
+1814 page 107 etc.)
+
+(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the soundings in this part of
+the coast bring up a very fine quartzose-sand like that cemented in the
+breccia.)
+
+ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of Dirk
+Hartog's Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous fragments of
+shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of these shells has at
+first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and is harder than ordinary
+carbonate of lime.
+
+The characters of the shells in Captain King's specimens from this place
+are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du Roi, which, there is
+reason to suppose, have come from this part of the coast, contain shells
+of several species, belonging among others to the genera, corbula, chama,
+cardium, porcellanea, turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted
+for this account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of
+the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a
+considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect of the
+rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St. Hospice, near Nice.
+
+KING GEORGE'S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from Cape Leeuwin.
+Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the sea-beach. Yellowish
+grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties of a calcareous rock, of the
+same nature with that of Dirk Hartog's Island; consisting of particles of
+translucent quartzose sand, united by a cement of yellowish or
+cream-coloured carbonate of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and
+splintery fracture, and is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the
+knife. In this compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as
+in the stone of Dirk Hartog's Islands; but the calcareous matter is very
+unequally diffused.
+
+A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears, is that of
+irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a rugged sandy
+surface, and from half an inch to an inch in diameter; the cross fracture
+of which shows that they are composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of
+lime, either uniformly mixed throughout, or forming a crust around
+calcareous matter of a spongy texture; in which latter case they have
+some resemblance to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to
+have been of this description, is stated to have come from a height of
+about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on the
+South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not really exhibit
+any traces of organic structure; and so nearly resemble the irregular
+stalactitical concretions produced by the passage of calcareous or
+ferruginous solutions through sand* that they are probably of the same
+origin; indeed the central cavity of the stalactite still remains open in
+some of the specimens of this kind from Sweer's Island in the Gulf of
+Carpentaria. The specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological
+Society by Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,**
+appear upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no
+reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other foreign
+substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various foreign bodies, even
+of artificial production, have been so found. Professor Buckland has
+mentioned a specimen of concreted limestone from St. Helena, which
+contains the recent shell of a bird's egg;*** and M. Peron states that,
+in the concretional limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the
+trunks of trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to
+leave no doubt as to their nature.****
+
+(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous matter, irregularly
+ramifying through sand, like the roots of trees, are described by Captain
+Lyon as occurring in Africa. Lyon's Travels Appendix page 65.)
+
+(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139, 140; and Bull. des
+Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page 322.)
+
+(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.)
+
+(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.)
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
+
+It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places, by persons
+unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction which is intended,
+from the want of attention to a few necessary precautions, that the
+following directions may perhaps be useful to some of those, into whose
+hands these pages are likely to fall. It will be sufficient to premise,
+that two of the principal objects of geological inquiry, are, to
+determine, first, the nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is
+composed; and, secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are
+disposed with respect to each other.
+
+1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from loose
+pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or which have
+recently fallen from their natural situation.
+
+2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by exposure to the
+elements, which sometimes alter the characters to a considerable distance
+from the surface. Petrifactions, however, are often best distinguishable
+in masses somewhat decomposed; and are thus even rendered visible, in
+many cases, where no trace of any organized body can be discerned in the
+recent fracture.
+
+3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size is about
+three inches square, and about three-quarters of an inch, or less, in
+thickness.
+
+4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind of rock,
+are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that the general
+character is collected, by geologists who examine rocks in their native
+places, from the average of an extensive surface: a collection ought
+therefore to furnish specimens of the most characteristic varieties; and
+THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE.
+Where several specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers
+should be added to the note of their locality.
+
+5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining specimens, and
+examining the relations of rocks, is in the sections afforded by cliffs
+on the seashore; especially after recent falls of large masses. It
+commonly happens that the beds thus exposed are more or less inclined;
+and in this case, if any of them be inaccessible at a particular point,
+the decline of the strata will frequently enable the collector to supply
+himself with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus,
+in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of considerable
+height, the observer being situated at a, the beds b, c, d, though
+inaccessible at that place, may be examined with ease and security, where
+they successively come down to the shore, at b prime, c prime, and d
+prime.
+
+6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill and practice
+are required: the rocks being generally concealed by the soil,
+accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the vegetation of the
+surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed in the sides of ravines,
+in the beds of rivers and mountain-streams; and these, especially where
+they cross the direction of the strata, and be made, by careful
+examination, to afford instructive sections.
+
+7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the remains of
+organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes, the bones and
+teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions of vegetable stems,
+roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest importance; affording
+generally the most marked characters of the strata in which they occur.
+These should, therefore, be particularly sought after, and their relative
+abundance or rarity in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies
+should, if possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix
+in which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay, or
+any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain a large
+portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, than to attempt
+their separation at the time of collecting.
+
+8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks, in the form
+of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be carefully distinguished
+from the solid strata upon which they repose. And the more ancient of
+these loose materials, found on the sides or summits of hills, etc.,
+should be distinguished from the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought
+down by land-floods, or rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not
+unfrequently found in gravel of the former description; and the
+collection of these remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an
+object of the greatest interest to geology.
+
+9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, to accompany
+every specimen, a short notice of its geological circumstances; as:
+
+Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in strata?
+
+If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the horizon, and
+direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? [If these cannot be
+measured, an estimate should always be recorded, while the objects are in
+view.] Are they uniform in dip and direction? curved, or contorted?
+continuous, or interrupted by fissures or veins?
+
+Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform composition?
+or does it consist of different kinds of stone?
+
+If the strata be different, what is the order in which they are placed
+above each other successively?
+
+10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every specimen, stating
+its native place, its relative situation, etc., etc. And these labels
+should be connected with the specimens immediately, on the spot where
+they are found. This injunction may appear to be superfluous; but so much
+valuable information has been lost to geology from the neglect of it,
+that every observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it
+is, perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to.
+
+11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently conveys more
+information respecting the disposition and relations of rocks, than the
+longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the situation of the specimens
+collected, be marked upon such sketches, much time may be saved at the
+moment of collecting. But in all such cases, the memorandum should be
+looked over soon afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their
+situation, etc., be attached to the specimens themselves.
+
+12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may be defended
+from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for which purpose, if
+strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or straw, or leaves, may be
+used with advantage. Where paper is used for wrapping the specimens, they
+are best secured by fastening the envelope with sealing-wax.
+
+Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be prevented from
+collecting, by finding that the place which he may chance to visit in a
+remote situation, has not a striking appearance, or the rocks within his
+view a very interesting character; since it frequently, and even
+commonly, happens, that facts and specimens, in themselves of very little
+importance, become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely
+any observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away.
+
+...
+
+The Instruments required by the geological traveller will vary, according
+to the acquirements and specific objects of the individual. The most
+essential are:
+
+The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of the form
+here represented:
+
+The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from the face
+to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the face flat, and
+square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the direction of the handle. The
+orifice for the insertion of the handle oval, a very little wider on the
+outer side than within; its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7
+across; the centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The
+handle should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches
+long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a shoulder;
+and increasing a little in size towards the end remote from the head, to
+prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the head by means of a thin,
+barbed iron wedge.
+
+For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed (Sketch 6): The
+form of the head, recommended for this purpose by Dr. MacCulloch,* is
+rectangular. The dimensions of the face may be 1 inch by 3/4; the height
+2 1/4.
+
+(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers, Quarterly Journal
+Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1 etc.)
+
+It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different sizes, in
+reserve.
+
+A small miner's pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting portions of
+slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays, etc.
+
+A small stone-cutter's chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the form here
+represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert collector, and
+better enable him to direct his blow.
+
+For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper. Sealing-wax.
+Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to cement the labels to
+the specimens.
+
+For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with straps for
+the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size, are very convenient
+for subdivision and arrangement. For the protection of crystals, or
+delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or cotton are necessary; and small
+wooden boxes (like those used for holding wafers) are sometimes required.
+For distant carriage, strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets.
+
+The following are either essential, or useful in various degrees, for
+obtaining and recording observations.
+
+Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit sketches.
+A Pocket Compass.
+A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more.
+A Telescope.
+A Camera Lucida.
+A Box of Colours.
+
+The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true economy to the
+traveller being that which saves time, it is best to mark, or even colour
+the map, in the field. Notes inserted on imperfect maps, or deduced
+afterwards from memoranda, are less authentic; and the process is
+frequently neglected.
+
+PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are desirable; and the
+best instruments are ultimately the cheapest. But, unfortunately,
+barometers of every construction are very easily damaged or deranged. The
+accurate determination of heights, however, though very interesting to
+physical geography, is comparatively of little importance to the
+geologist.
+
+If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what purpose a
+Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the measurement of
+distances, of heights, and of the inclination of strata, etc.
+
+...
+
+CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C.
+
+GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.
+
+GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.
+1. List of Rocks.
+2. Rocks identical with those of Europe.
+3. Aspect of the Shores.
+4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens of
+Limestone: no Volcanoes.
+5. Recent calcareous breccia.
+6. Range of the Coastlines.
+
+DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.
+
+...
+
+INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
+
+...
+
+
+APPENDIX D.
+
+COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL
+REMARKS.
+
+COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.
+COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN FLINDERS.
+COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN COOK AND
+MR. FORSTER.
+COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST.
+COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON.
+COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT.
+COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY.
+COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER.
+COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
+
+Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja : Milla : Me'-e
+: Nam'-mur-uck.
+
+Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) : Tarmul,
+Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : - : Mor-ro : Na'-ag : Me-oun.
+
+Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : - : - : - : -.
+
+Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah : Er-ra :
+Te'-lah : Kouk.
+
+Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : - : - : Mal'-way
+: Mim.
+
+Cheeks : Tac-cal : - : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : - : - : - : -.
+
+Chin : Na-ing : - : - : Wal-lo : - : - : - : -.
+
+Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) : Duong :
+Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo'-ko : Goun-reek.
+
+Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra, or Gewarroo
+: Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo'l-lack : Pipe, or Bipipe.
+
+Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : - : Ganga, Cadlear, or Cadleang : -
+: Oro- : - : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree.
+
+Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : - : Nabung : - : Be-ning : Nam-bang
+: -.
+
+Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul : Barrong, or
+Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War'rah : -.
+
+Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang : - : Bar-gar
+: Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig.
+
+Hand : Gong : - : - : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : - : - : -.
+
+Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural) :
+Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook.
+
+Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : - : O-nur : - : - : - :
+Nam-me-rick.
+
+Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa'l-la-kah : Bo-ong, or Bayley :
+- : - : - : -.
+
+Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : - : Dar-ra : - : - : Woo'lo-loo : -.
+
+Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul : Manoe : Janna
+: Dhee-nany : - : -.
+
+Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) : - : - : -
+: Teel-nah : Pe-une.
+
+Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat : Goona,
+Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : - : Too-nigh, or Win-gin : -.
+
+Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : - : Ba-doo : Ajung- : - :
+Bah-do : -.
+
+Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : - : Keba : Wy-juck : - : - : -.
+
+Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango : Tungo,
+Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou, Barro-melon,
+Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : - : - : Womboy, Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke
+(the Pademalion of Port Jackson) : Raguar.
+
+Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) : Me-a-ra :
+Wo-me-rah : - : - : - : -.
+
+Nipples (of a man) : - : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep : Mou-tral :
+- : - : - : Nerrinook.
+
+Dog : - : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal : Med-di-gen,
+War-ri-gal : - : - : -.
+
+Nails : - : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : - : - : - : -.
+
+Beard : - : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : - : Anany : - :
+Ru-ing.
+
+Mouth : - : - : Tatah : Karga : - : Chuang : Wel'-leck : -.
+
+Fire : - : - : - : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur : Cor-yal :
+Lope.
+
+Membrum virile : - : - : Yaw-de-wit : - : - : - : Cool-kah : Lune.
+
+Head : - : Wageegee (Forster) : - : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or Nattang :
+Cah-brah : - : -.
+
+The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives in various
+parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, has been inserted
+to show the great dissimilarity that exists in the languages of the
+several tribes: and it may be remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one
+only, the Eye, is expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In
+this list, it is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms
+used to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra, or
+gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the language of some
+of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for instance, as arouroo or
+hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands; lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands;
+hooroo of New Zealand; and, perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New
+Caledonia, which is situated between these places and Port Jackson, the
+same thing is expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render
+the anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark, that,
+within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of three tribes,
+Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek, signify the hair, by
+the words wollack, mundar, and bulla-ye-ga.
+
+(*Footnote. Forster Observations page 283.)
+
+The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be proved, as
+far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance of the words, and
+not merely by a few examples of coincidence, which can only be considered
+as accidental: and as our knowledge of the Australian languages, except
+in the vicinity of Port Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty
+words, no comparison, derived from such limited information, can be
+employed with any certainty to determine the question. The connexion must
+be sought for, probably, where the continent, at its north-eastern
+extremity, most nearly approaches other lands; but even then the chain
+will remain imperfect until New Guinea and its neighbouring islands are
+explored, and correct and extensive vocabularies of their languages
+obtained. Forster,* who has paid considerable attention to this subject,
+and whose opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of
+personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New Hollanders are
+not an original race, but have derived their origin from New Guinea. It
+is therefore to be hoped, that this subject will not be forgotten by our
+trans-Atlantic and Australian colonists; more particularly by those of
+the new settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their
+vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing light
+upon the question.
+
+(*Footnote. Ibid.)
+
+...
+
+SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH RESPECT TO
+PORT JACKSON.
+
+King George the Third's Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660 miles from
+Port Jackson.
+
+Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of Carpentaria,
+1500 miles from Port Jackson.
+
+Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the North-east
+Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson.
+
+Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson.
+
+Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson.
+
+Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port Jackson.
+
+Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land.
+
+Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen's Land.
+
+
+
+END OF VOLUME 2.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the
+Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King
+
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