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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12022 ***
+
+A START IN LIFE.
+
+=A Journey Across America.=
+
+
+
+FRUIT FARMING IN CALIFORNIA.
+
+BY
+
+C.F. DOWSETT,
+
+_Author of "Striking Events in Irish History," etc., etc_.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+LONDON: DOWSETT & Co., 3, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+PRICE ONE SHILLING.
+
+
+
+
+
+A START IN LIFE.
+
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+_Plans, Maps, Views, Books, Samples of Fruits, Soils, etc., etc., of
+Land at Merced, in California, may be seen at the Offices of
+
+MESSRS. DOWSETT & CO.,
+
+3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London,
+
+where also further particulars and introductions to the owners at Merced
+may be obtained._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+ A Suggestion to Persons Seeking a Start in Life
+ Special Advantages
+ Comparison and Warning
+ Across America--
+ London to Chicago
+ Chicago to San Francisco
+ San Francisco to Now Orleans
+ New Orleans to London
+ Information About California
+ Currency
+ Merced
+ Price of Land
+ American Surveys
+ Special Instruction Provided
+ Various Estimates as to what could be done with
+ Various Amounts of Capital
+ Price of Fruit Trees
+ When Fruit Trees Pay
+ Position of a Settler
+ Cost of Board and Lodging
+ Raisin Culture
+ Irrigation
+ Olive Culture
+ Special Openings
+ Potato Growing
+ Cost of Provisions, etc., at Merced
+ Cost of Journey by Sea and Land
+ Analysis of Merced Soils
+ Position of the Vendors
+
+[Illustration: Map of North America with Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
+_The dotted lines across America, indicate my journey, the Northern one
+going, the Southern one returning. C.F.D._]
+
+
+
+
+=A Start in Life.=
+
+
+I have entitled this little book "A Start in Life," because it conveys
+information which would enable any person possessing a small capital,
+with some industry, patience, and steady habits, to make a start in life
+which, humanly speaking, could not fail of success.
+
+The old countries of Europe contain a superabundant population; every
+branch of professional and commercial life is so overcrowded, that there
+exists a competition so keen, as to reduce the incomes of the largest,
+and, in many cases, to prevent the smallest workers, in whatever sphere,
+from getting a remunerative return for the activities of brain, muscle,
+and money.
+
+To inform the public, therefore, how a young man may make a first start
+in life, or an older man a fresh start in life, is offering an advantage
+which, I doubt not, will be appreciated by many who read these pages.
+
+I am prepared to hear the objection that, in the proposals set forth
+herein, I am seeking a personal advantage as Agent for the sale of the
+lands at Merced, in California, that I refer to, and I meet it with this
+statement: Let the objector consider his prospects of success in the
+place where he now is, and if they are reasonably good, let him stay
+there; if they are not, then let him intelligently consider what his
+capabilities are--whether he has any special or technical knowledge,
+and, if so, in what place he can expect the best return for a full use
+of his talents. If any opening appears probable in any of the old
+countries, he will, perhaps, first consider that; but if he can see no
+opening at home, then let him consider, by careful investigation, the
+more distant fields; let him learn all he can about all the British
+Colonies, and other countries, and especially Canada and the United
+States, as being nearest to Great Britain. Having learnt something
+generally of these distant places, then, having regard to his own
+abilities and capital, and his personal desires as to distance from the
+Old Country, climate, &c., he should make his choice as to which of the
+places he has read of seems most likely to give him a fair prospect of
+success; and then, having come to this decision, he should learn all he
+can about that particular place. I admit that I shall receive a
+personal benefit by persons settling at Merced, in California; but--I
+say this with great confidence--if, after an intelligent consideration
+of other places, any person, desiring a start in life, comes to the
+conclusion that Fruit culture in California is an occupation, and a
+country, that would suit him, then let him consider all the places in
+California where openings for this occupation are presented, and let him
+choose which of them he considers most suitable; and, at the risk of
+appearing invidious, I would add that he should not believe all he
+reads, but should make his examination and inquiries for himself, on the
+spot. I do not ask him blindly to believe what is set forth in these
+pages, but if he thinks that California is a suitable place of
+settlement for him, then I do say, with great emphasis, that he should
+not settle upon anything in California until he has been to Merced, and
+proved for himself that the statements are credible. After he has been
+to Merced, I have little doubt that he will be convinced that that place
+presents an opening which would be worth his decision.
+
+If he proceed to California by the Southern Pacific Railway, he could
+break his journey at the various other places of Fruit culture
+settlement, and inspect them, reaching Merced last, as the nearest to
+the great centre of San Francisco.
+
+A careful comparison of the various fields of Fruit culture enterprise
+will, I am assured, show him that Merced possesses peculiar advantages.
+
+It is well known that the great drawback of California is want of water;
+and intending settlers must not be satisfied by the statements of
+agents, or owners, that their lands have water advantages, but they must
+satisfy themselves that they can have water by irrigation (not by the
+expensive, laborious process of pumping it up from uncertain springs),
+and in such a quantity as to be permanent.
+
+At some places lands now supplied by irrigation will fall short
+presently, when the owners carry the water on to thousands of adjoining
+acres; therefore, a full and permanent supply of water is an essential.
+
+
+THE SPECIAL ADVANTAGES
+
+my clients offer settlers at Merced are:--
+
+1. A permanent supply of Water, for a perpetual water right accompanies
+every lot of land sold.
+
+2. Contiguity to a Railway Station on the main line, and to a Town,
+with commercial, professional, educational, social and religious
+advantages.
+
+3. Instruction in Fruit culture gratis by a specialist, who is paid by
+my clients to instruct settlers on their lands.
+
+4. A rich Soil, of which, on another page, an analysis is given.
+
+5. A ready Market for produce. Buyers come round the country and
+purchase the crops as they are on the trees, taking upon themselves the
+picking and packing. The Continent of North America is a sufficient
+market in itself for all time especially considering that its population
+increases nearly a million and a half a year.
+
+6. The prices range from 75 dollars to 150 dollars per acre. At some
+other places in California, land is offered at a less price, but I can
+sell some land at even 10 dollars per acre; yet that at 100 dollars per
+acre is far cheaper, having regard to its advantages. Our land at 150
+dollars per acre will favourably compare with lands fetching much higher
+prices.
+
+7. Free Conveyances will be given, with a perfectly clear and
+satisfactory title.
+
+8. Two-thirds of the purchase-money may remain on
+mortgage.
+
+9. Merced is only 14 days from London.
+
+10. A liberal competence may be secured by a reasonably industrious
+settler.
+
+11. Merced is a very healthy locality, and is nearer to San Francisco
+than other Fruit growing centres.
+
+12. My clients, the owners, are well-known gentlemen of wealth and
+position in California, and not irresponsible land speculators, members
+of a syndicate with an unknown personality.
+
+
+COMPARISON AND WARNING.
+
+I have already said that applicants should verify for themselves the
+statements made by persons who, like myself, would be personally
+benefited by their settling upon the lands offered for sale. Letters
+sent to this country, and advertised by agents as a guarantee of
+advantages, written by persons soon after arrival in California, and who
+have not compared the place of their location with other places, can
+scarcely be a sufficient recommendation. Some parts of California
+advertised in this country for sale have not a permanent water supply;
+are too hot; are swept by winds; are at a considerable distance from a
+railway station; have a poor, sandy soil, some even mixed with alkali;
+and some are so situated as to be "notoriously unhealthy," and produce
+chills, fevers, and general malaria, and, in one case, I have heard of
+an embarrassed title: therefore, I say that intending settlers should
+remember there is a California and a California--that it is not all gold
+which glitters, and that they should, personally and intelligently,
+investigate for themselves, on the spot, the statements made by those
+who, at a distance, offer the lands for sale.
+
+
+CAPITAL REQUIRED.
+
+It is recommended that settlers intending to establish Fruit farms,
+should have a capital of from £600 upwards; but those who have a smaller
+capital--say, £300, or even £100--may, in other ways, find some opening
+for employing it, if accompanied with intelligent, industrious,
+persevering work.
+
+
+
+
+=A Start in Life.=
+
+
+To ensure the stability of a building the foundation ought to be
+substantial, so in like manner a good start in life goes a great way
+towards ensuring a successful career. By success I do not mean the
+making of a rapid fortune by leaps and bounds of prosperity, but I do
+mean an ultimate prosperity, acquired through patient, persevering, and
+intelligent labour. To make a large fortune quickly it is necessary to
+have command of the requisite knowledge of the business in hand, the
+requisite capital, untiring energy, and a trait of genius. Beyond these
+it would be necessary to have the mind absorbed in the one thing, and
+therefore, supposing one possessed the requisites, would it be worth
+while to sacrifice all else to the mere accumulation of money? To live
+for mere money making is a grovelling existence, and utterly unworthy
+the aim of any man possessing the finer instincts of human nature and
+the intelligence with which it is endowed.
+
+No, I am not pretending to offer the means of making a rapid
+fortune--such accidents fall to the lot of but few out of the millions
+of our species--but I do claim to be able to offer to men willing to
+live a steady industrious life, the opportunity of acquiring, on easy
+terms, a small freehold estate, into which they can put the golden seed
+of their own mental and physical effort with the certainty of reaping a
+golden harvest proportionate to their area, their ability, and their
+industry; for when once a Fruit farm is planted it increases in value
+every year.
+
+To own a freehold estate of 20, 40, or 100 acres, with a comfortable
+house and buildings, and the land well stocked with choice Fruits, with
+a ready market, presents a prospect, by the use of a small capital, with
+the addition of muscle and brains, of future competence. When such a
+property is fully matured, labour can be hired, and one's own personal
+energies may be diverted, if preferred, into other channels, or
+continued in the same with largely accumulating benefits.
+
+I ask my readers requiring for themselves, or others in whom they are
+interested, a start in life, to read these pages carefully, for I do not
+know any calling, in the old or new world, where a small capitalist fond
+of country life could find an occupation more congenial than the one I
+offer at Merced, in California, and which is described herein.
+
+Residence near to a young town, which will probably increase rapidly in
+value, and which now possesses extensive commercial, locomotive, social
+and religious advantages, a climate than which the surface of this globe
+scarcely presents one more desirable, a fortnight's journey from London,
+and a soil pregnant with inherent virtue, are amongst the considerations
+of importance which will determine thoughtful investors to settle at
+Merced.
+
+I am prepared to show to applicants samples of the soils and fruits, and
+also views, books, maps, &c., and to answer questions, if they will call
+personally upon me, at my offices--
+
+ 3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London,
+
+so that they may have every assistance in enabling them to come to a
+decision as to whether the start in life I offer them at Merced, in
+California, is one suitable in respect of their inclination, capital,
+abilities, and energy.
+
+
+WITHIN A FORTNIGHT OF LONDON.
+
+To prove the convenient access of this land, called "British Colony"
+from London, I may say that on November 22nd, 1890, I left Liverpool in
+the Cunard steamer "Etruria," which reached New York on the following
+Saturday evening, just too late for the Custom-house officers to examine
+the luggage, so that we could not go on shore till the next morning. I
+stayed over the Sunday (26 hours) in New York, leaving on Monday by the
+first overland train, and after calling at innumerable stations, and
+staying 14 hours at Chicago and Council Bluffs, to "make connections"
+(_i.e._, catch other trains), and staying 52 hours at San Francisco, I
+arrived at Merced at 10.23 on Monday night, December 8th, _i.e._, say 16
+days 6 hours after leaving Liverpool. Had I have left Liverpool by the
+Wednesday instead of the Saturday steamer, I should not have needed to
+have stayed over Sunday in New York, and, of course, there would be no
+necessity for a settler to stay at San Francisco (I had to meet my
+clients there); therefore, deducting these two stoppages of 78 hours, or
+3-1/4 days, it would give 13 days to Merced in the _winter_ season. In
+fine weather the journey could be made in less time; some steamers, in
+the summer and autumn months, have crossed from Liverpool to New York in
+about six days, so that the journey _could_ be made, in favourable
+circumstances, in say 12 to 13 days, but we may safely put it at 14
+days.
+
+I went by the Northern Prairies and Rocky Mountains, and returned by the
+longer route of Southern California, the Desert of Arizona, the Plains
+of Texas, through the sugar and cotton districts of the Southern States,
+and thence, viâ New Orleans and Washington, back to New York.
+
+Thus, after remaining eight days at Merced, where I was fully engaged
+each day in inspecting the lands for sale and the country around for
+many miles, and after allowing for stoppages on the return journey over
+Sundays, and waiting three days at New York for the Cunard steamer
+"Servia," I reached Liverpool on January 4th, and was back again in my
+office on Monday, January 5th, being six weeks, one day and 22 hours
+from the time I rose from my chair in my office to the time I was
+sitting in it again.
+
+
+
+
+=Across America.=
+
+
+LONDON TO CHICAGO.
+
+Travelling in generations past was an important event in one's life, but
+now a journey across an ocean and a continent is a very commonplace
+affair. Books of travel used to be read with avidity, but now that so
+many persons travel, and the wires keep us in touch with all the world
+every day, the history of a journey is a small event, and one which to
+those not specially interested would scarcely perhaps be read;
+nevertheless, as some of my readers may have to go over some of the
+ground I have recently traversed, I have no doubt that a reference to my
+journey to California and back would be of interest to them, and
+therefore I will give up some time and space to the subject.
+
+This little record of my journey may perhaps be better received if I
+state that I am not a novice in travel, and that before I had turned
+twenty-one years of age I had been to Australia (calling _en route_ at
+Pernambuco in South America), and that while in Australia I visited
+Melbourne, Sydney, Geelong, King George's Sound, besides various inland
+towns and gold fields, including Bendigo, Castlemaine, Tarrangower,
+Fryer's Creek, Forest Creek, Campbell's Creek, Tarradale, Maryborough,
+etc., and various other places, and sheep and cattle stations. From
+Australia I went to Aden (the inland town) and up the Red Sea to Suez,
+returning to Australia, and thence to England. Since I commenced
+business in England, in 1859, I went in 1862 to St. Thomas' in the West
+Indies, thence to Aspinwall, across the Isthmus to Panama, thence to
+Acapulco in Mexico, on to San Francisco in California, and thence to
+Vancouver Island, returning by the same route as far as Aspinwall,
+whence I went to New York. In 1865 I went on business to Russia.
+Arriving at the ancient city of Pskov, I proceeded across country to the
+estate of my client, the Count Bogouschefsky, at one time private
+Secretary to the Emperor Nicholas (grandfather of the present Czar).
+Some of these travels were attended with a good deal of adventure; but
+my recent journey from England to California and back, 13,774 miles, in
+six weeks (including all stoppages), was all work, for my time was
+occupied continuously in reading up the country, learning from old
+settlers, and making notes of what I saw, some of which I have found
+room for in the following pages.
+
+On November 22nd, 1890, I was at work in my office in Lincoln's Inn
+Fields, whence a cab depositing me at Euston, the 10.10 express train
+soon ran me down to Liverpool (201 miles), whence a steam "tender" took
+me from the landing-stage to the Cunard steamship "Etruria," some two
+miles off, where I was soon comfortably located in my "state room" (No.
+42).
+
+It was nearly 5 o'clock before we got away, and the next day found us at
+Queenstown Harbour, where we lost considerable time in waiting for the
+mail. At length the mail, which was a heavy one, was safely on board,
+and off we went, head on to the Atlantic. During that night of the 23rd
+we experienced a heavy gale; big seas broke over the forecastle, and
+flooded the decks below, through the ventilators. The A.B.'s declined
+venturing on the forecastle to unship these great ventilators, and so
+the engines had to be slowed down, and the ship stopped; the ventilators
+were then unshipped, and we proceeded. The night was a bad one, and the
+next morning we had not got through it, and as a consequence the decks
+were like lagoons; but presently we had run through it, or it had run
+away from us, or had expended its energy, and we were in comparatively
+smooth waters, and had a comfortable run to New York. Nothing of
+particular interest occurred during the passage. I sought and found the
+old American settlers amongst the passengers, and obtained from them all
+the information I could of the country, and especially the State to
+which I was going. I read "General" Booth's "Darkest England," and wrote
+a review of it, which duly appeared in the "Land Roll."
+
+The "Etruria" is a fine ship. She has a commodious saloon, music and
+reading room, plenty of deck space for exercise, comfortable cabins,
+bath rooms, etc.
+
+On the 29th we made Sandy Hook Lighthouse, which is about 20 miles from
+New York Dock, but we got in too late for the Custom-house officers to
+look at our baggage, so we lay all night in the harbour, and next
+morning commenced the tedious process of creeping up, yard by yard, into
+our berth at the dock. The run from Liverpool was thus:--Liverpool to
+Queenstown, on the 22nd and 23rd, 240 miles; 24th, at noon, 330 miles;
+25th, 454; 26th, 462; 27th, 475; 28th, 480; 29th, 471; distance to
+Sandy Hook Lighthouse, 130 miles; so that the run totals up to 3,042,
+and with the 20 miles added, 3,062 miles.
+
+I had been recommended by a passenger to go to the Hotel St. Stephen, 46
+to 52, East Eleventh Street, New York, whence I drove in a cab perhaps a
+mile and a half, for which the cabman wanted 2 dollars (equal to 8s.
+4d.); he got 1-1/2, which was half-a-dollar too much. Passengers should
+drive to their hotel, and then ask the proper fare before paying. New
+York has many large hotels--this is comparatively a small one. All the
+waiters are coloured men, and this seems pretty general throughout
+America.
+
+I stayed over the 30th (Sunday) in New York, by which I secured a quiet
+day and an opportunity to attend Divine service. In my bedroom was a
+coil of stout Manilla rope screwed into the floor, near a window, so
+that an escape might be secured in the event of fire. The towels
+provided are a kind of compromise between a duster and a pocket
+handkerchief--rather disappointing to one accustomed to his "tub." New
+York is great in tram-cars, worked by horses, mules, and electricity,
+also elevated railways--that is, railways running down the streets on
+huge tressels or scaffolding--so that the vehicles go underneath them,
+and the passengers in the train look straight into the first-floor
+windows of the houses on the other side. There is an immense development
+of electricity all over America, and in tram-cars, railway-cars, hotels,
+houses, everything and everywhere, is the electric light prominent. Many
+of the streets are unevenly paved. Blacking boots is a profession in
+America--in many hotels a special charge is made for it, or else the
+visitors are left to their own devices thereon--and boot-blacks have
+shops and nooks fitted with high, huge easy chairs, elevated like
+thrones, where their clients can comfortably repose during the operation
+of polish.
+
+The next morning, December 1st, I was up early, and made enquiries at
+the various offices representing the railway lines to Chicago, with the
+result that I took a ticket by the Pennsylvania route, and left New York
+at 10 o'clock a.m. The train service between New York and Chicago is one
+of the best, if not _the_ best, in America. The cars are elegantly
+fitted; they are about the length of the Pullman cars we have in
+England. The best cars are those fitted with sleeping accommodation, and
+travellers having tickets for a "sleeper" have the privilege of using
+the sleeping car during the day. The sleeping cars are divided into
+squares capable of seating four persons, but the space is accorded to
+two only, as only two beds or berths can be made up in the space; the
+lower berth (which is always the favourite) is formed of the two double
+seats (the space for four seats), filled up in the centre by special
+fittings and mattresses, hidden during the day inside the seats; the
+upper berth is pulled down from the sloping roof of the car, and in the
+receptacle between the slope and the square are contained the bedding
+and the fittings. A curtain falls down over both the upper and lower
+berths, and, so far as one can, the dressing has to be done with the
+curtain hanging round one as one stands within it; and if on both sides
+of the car passengers happen to stand behind their respective curtains
+at the same time, they would touch one another and so block the
+passage-way. The dressing accommodation is so inconvenient that only
+partial undressing is adopted. The outside of the slope is polished
+mahogany, and in the daytime bears no indication whatever of what it
+really is, but looks like a handsome sloping polished mahogany roof.
+These cars are luxuriously fitted. Another car on the train is a
+handsome dining saloon, with kitchen attached, where you can order as
+good a dinner as you could obtain at an hotel. The cars are also fitted
+liberally with lavatories and water-closets, separate ones for ladies
+and for gentlemen. On this train is also a bath-room and a barber's
+shop. There are also one or two small private rooms, which can be hired
+separately. This train has also a recent addition, being what is called
+a drawing-room or observation car; this is the last on the train, and
+the end is fitted with glass, so that in riding along passengers in this
+car enjoy an uninterrupted view of the country they are leaving behind.
+On this special train a ladies' maid is provided for the convenience of
+ladies, and a stenographer, with his type-writing machine, occupies a
+seat in the vestibule of the drawing-room car to take down any urgent
+letters which business men may desire to post _en route_. The
+observation car is supplied with a library for the use of passengers,
+and is fitted with plate-glass windows and easy chairs. It has a
+platform where one can breathe the fresh air outside if desired. There
+is also a smoking-room car. On this special train the Stock Exchange
+reports of the New York and Philadelphia Exchanges are received and
+posted on the bulletin boards three times a day, and the weather reports
+are also posted. The whole of the train is thoroughly well heated by
+steam pipes, and lighted by electricity. The person in charge of a
+"sleeper" car is called the "porter;" he occupies a position, not like a
+porter on an English railway, but analagous to a steward on board ship.
+
+On leaving New York I noticed that the suburbs contained many very small
+wooden houses, and the country had the appearance of many Colonial
+scenes I have witnessed--the land looked like reclaimed prairie, which
+it probably is; and after passing many homesteads and villages we ran
+into Philadelphia at 12.20. Philadelphia is the largest city, as to
+area, in the United States. It is situate on the west bank of the
+Delaware River. It is 22 miles long, and from 5 to 8 broad, comprising
+an area of 1,294 square miles. It has over 900 miles of paved streets.
+Philadelphia was founded by the celebrated William Penn, who went from
+England to America in 1682 A.D., and purchased the site of this great
+city from the Indians. William Penn's character was remarkable for his
+high sense of honour, and if the same principle had obtained throughout
+the history of the United States with the Indians, we should never have
+heard of any "Indian Difficulty." Penn presented the city with a charter
+in 1701. The city, built upon lands honestly and liberally bought from
+the Indians, prospered greatly, and its population continued to increase
+until it now reaches something approaching 900,000. Its chief source of
+wealth is from its manufactures, which embrace locomotives, and all
+kinds of ironware, ships, carpets, woollen and cotton goods, shoes,
+umbrellas, and books. It has more buildings than any other city in that
+country, and, in point of commerce, ranks fourth among the cities of the
+United States. I noticed that the suburbs of Philadelphia contained many
+handsome stone and brick residences. I felt much interested in the
+connection with William Penn, because he is one of the ancestors of the
+Penn-Gaskells of England, who for many years have been valuable and
+much-respected clients of mine, and in numerous transactions I have
+noticed in them that beautiful trait of strict honour which gave William
+Penn a world-wide character, and has descended from him to them.
+
+Passing by many farm homesteads, villages, and towns, all having a
+prosperous kind of appearance, and described as "one of the richest
+agricultural districts in America," we ran into Harrisburg, which is the
+capital of Pennsylvania, and situate on the east bank of the Susquehanna
+River. About five miles above Harrisburg we crossed the Susquehanna
+River on a bridge 3,670 feet long, from the centre of which I am told
+there is a fine view, but I lost it, as a snowstorm was raging while I
+was crossing.
+
+We stopped at Altoona, a large city lying at the foot of the
+Alleghanies, and in ascending the Alleghanies fine scenery and great
+engineering feats are discernible. From this we ran on to Pittsburg,
+which claims to be the best lighted city in America, the streets being
+brilliantly illuminated by arc and incandescent electric lights. Nine
+bridges cross the Allegheny, and five the Monongahela rivers. Pittsburg
+has been called the "iron city," and "smoky city"; it has immense glass,
+steel and iron manufactures, and in these three interests alone employs
+over 50,000 persons.
+
+Then we proceed till, presently, we catch sight of Lake Michigan, and
+know that Chicago is not far off. We skirt the shore of this busy water,
+with its wharves, etc. On arrival (December 2nd) we drive through the
+city from the Pennsylvania to the North-Western terminus.
+
+Chicago is 912 miles from New York: it is the greatest city in Illinois,
+and during the past 50 years has grown from a small Indian trading
+station into a metropolis. Chicago extends some 20 miles along the
+shores of Lake Michigan, and goes back from the lake to a depth of about
+four miles, thus embracing about 80 square miles; beyond these confines
+of the city proper the suburbs extend to some 6 to 10 miles in every
+direction. It will be remembered that in 1871 Chicago had a great fire,
+which burned an area of 3-1/8 square miles, destroyed 17,450 buildings,
+made 98,500 persons homeless, and killed outright about 200 more. The
+loss of property was estimated at 190,000,000 dollars, of which only
+30,000,000 dollars were recovered from insurances, and this bankrupted
+some of the insurance companies. In 1874 another fire consumed 5,000,000
+dollars' worth of property. Chicago is the great central depôt for
+grain, lumber and live stock. In 1888 there were packed at Chicago
+4,500,000 hogs, and about 1,600,000 cattle. Chicago has also extensive
+iron, steel, wheel, car, flour, furniture, boot and shoe and tannery
+manufactures. In driving through I noticed one long street, to the right
+and left of the street I was traversing, thickly occupied with
+tradesmen's carts, backed on the kerb in the usual fashion, being loaded
+from the stores (or shops): there must have been a few hundred of them;
+I never saw so many in one street at one time anywhere in any part of
+the world. Chicago was cased in frozen snow, and thus was not very
+attractive; but I noticed many very fine buildings, and was much struck
+with the cosmopolitan character of the inhabitants. During the interval
+of waiting for the train on the North-Western to start I was able to see
+a little of the place, and found that some persons I spoke to could not
+speak English. They came apparently from all parts of the continent of
+Europe.
+
+
+CHICAGO TO SAN FRANCISCO.
+
+The train was due at Chicago (December 2nd) at 9.45 a.m., being exactly
+a 23 hours and 45 minutes' run from New York. Having crossed Chicago
+from one terminus to another, I found that three trains left Chicago by
+which I could travel to San Francisco--two were slow trains, and one a
+fast train; but, by whichever train I went, it would make no difference
+as to the time I left Omaha, and consequently no difference to the time
+I should arrive at San Francisco, so I went on by one of the slow
+trains, as I wanted to see Council Bluffs. This train was similarly
+fitted to the other, except that it had no drawing-room car, nor
+stenographer, etc., nor were the platforms connecting the carriages
+enclosed; so that, in passing to the dining car, or any other car, the
+sudden change from a hot car to a shower of snow was not pleasant. The
+distance from Chicago to Omaha is 492 miles, and the country between the
+two places formed a part of the great prairie region, which, 50 years
+ago, had no other inhabitant than the Indian and the trapper, but now is
+a succession of homesteads, villages, and towns, bearing evidence of
+prosperity. At Creston, and many other stations, I noticed that there is
+no protection whatever from the railway; the line is unfenced, and the
+train runs through the town as openly as a coach would; there is
+generally a rough board put up here and there with the words, crudely
+painted on them, "Look out for the cars!" We were due at Council Bluffs
+the next morning (December 3rd) at 7.23, but we arrived some half-hour
+late. Council Bluffs Station is four miles from Omaha Station, but the
+towns adjoin. The former has a population of over 35,000, and the latter
+of over 110,000. They are divided by the great Missouri River, which is
+crossed by two bridges, one being 2,750 feet long, and the other 2,920
+feet long. Having had breakfast at the station, I went up to the town by
+the "motor," that is, the electrical tram-car. The motor cars, like the
+railway cars, are heated. I noticed a large number of detached wooden
+cottages, "standing in their own grounds," of about one-eighth of an
+acre, and I learned that these are owned by labourers. Mr. Day, an agent
+there, told me that the cottage would cost 500 dollars, and the land 400
+dollars, _i.e.,_ £100 for the house, and £80 for the land. An eighth of
+an acre for £80 would be £640 per acre, and this quite out in the
+suburbs; and I was told that good business blocks in the town itself
+would fetch £32,000 (not dollars, but pounds) per acre. In the large
+cities, such as New York, Chicago, etc., prices in the principal streets
+would compare with prices in the City of London. Returning to the
+station, I joined the express train, and crossing the Missouri River to
+Omaha, we proceeded west. The river was frozen at its sides, and
+presented no attractions worth notice. On we go through hundreds of
+fields of maize, always called "corn" in America; other grain crops,
+such as wheat, etc., are called by their own names, but the crop known
+only as "corn" in America is maize. The rich clusters of corn are
+gathered, and the stalks, something in appearance between a wheat stalk
+and a sugar cane, are left standing for the cattle to pick over. Forty
+years ago _this_ part was uninhabited by white men, and was the home of
+countless buffaloes; now these animals are extirpated, and everywhere we
+see nothing, for mile upon mile, but corn, corn, corn. One of my fellow
+travellers was Mr. H.C. Jacobs, of Chicago, whose father-in-law was one
+of the pioneers, and who gave me much information. The next day
+(December 4th), we traverse the great rolling prairies of Nebraska, and
+see many herds of horses and cattle, and here and there ranch homes and
+cowboys.
+
+Having run through Illinois, Iowa, and Nebraska, we commence the State
+of Wyoming as we pull up at the City of Cheyenne, where, in the far
+distance, we see, with its peaks well clothed in snow, the grand range
+of the Rocky Mountains. Soon after leaving Cheyenne, we commence the
+ascent of the Rockies--not, of course, the actual summit range itself,
+but the foot hills and high lands stretching away from, and forming part
+of it--and as we climb the ascent terminating at Sherman, where we have
+gained an elevation of 8,247 feet, we pass through very wild, grand
+scenery. At this altitude we look down upon floating clouds, and see in
+the distance Long's Peak, 14,000 feet high, towering above them. All
+along, at intervals, are portable fences, placed to catch the snow as it
+drifts, to prevent it blocking the line; and also what are called snow
+sheds, which are rough timber tunnels built up to protect the rails from
+the great drifts arising out of heavy snowstorms. At the highest point
+is a pyramid, commemorating a certain Mr. Oakes Ames, which looked 20
+feet high and very near the line; it is however, 75 feet high and
+half-a-mile off. The air is so rarefied that distances are most
+deceiving.
+
+As our descent proceeds, we catch sight, in the distance, of a herd of
+wild elk, and where these rolling prairies have better herbage, we see
+herds of horses with ranch buildings here and there. We pass the ranch
+of William Cody, who, by virtue of his being a Senator of the State of
+Nebraska, is called Honourable, but who was known in London, a short
+time ago, at Mr. Whitley's "Wild West" show as "Buffalo Bill." As we
+pass Fort Laraime, one of the forts erected by the United States
+Government as a protection against the Indians, I was told some stories
+of Cody's exploits against the Indians. In former days, emigrants
+traversing these great prairies to found a home in this Wild West, were
+often harassed by Indians, and the soldiers at the fort had to protect
+them. Buffalo Bill has been in many a skirmish, and, if rumour is true,
+many redskins have succumbed to him; the Government took counsel with
+him in all Indian difficulties in that part of the country, and the day
+before I passed his ranch he had been sent for by the authorities that
+they might confer with him as to the outbreak which then existed, and
+which cost "Sitting Bull" his life. We passed a house cut clean in two
+by the wind, great herds of horses and cattle, beautiful specimens of
+the bald and other eagles and vultures, some deer, and a very fine grey
+wolf about the size of a Newfoundland dog. The distant mountain
+scenery at times is very grand, and everywhere snow-capped. The air is
+very pure and keen. I much enjoyed the society of two fellow travellers
+over this part of my journey, Mr. Lee, of General Lee's family, of
+Virginia, and Mr. Hurley, Solicitor to the Directors of the line we were
+traversing. We passed the "Divide of the Continent" at an altitude of
+7,100 feet, which is the dividing line of the running of water; that
+running east empties into the North Platte River, thence into the
+Missouri, thence into the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean; that
+running west empties into the Green River, thence into the Colorado,
+thence into the Pacific Ocean.
+
+In the early morning of December 5th we ran into Ogden, which is near
+Salt Lake, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains, which are snow-capped,
+and have some very fine peaks. Salt Lake is 126 by 45 miles, and on it
+is situate the great City of the Mormons. On the more fertile parts of
+the prairies I gathered, at Humboldt Wells, some of the sage grass which
+used to be the food of the buffaloes when they existed; at other places
+I gathered samples of herbage on less favoured soils. As we proceed, we
+see an encampment of Indians with red paint on their faces, which was
+put on to show sympathy with, and, if necessary, take part with other
+tribes of Indians, then commencing a "war" with the United States
+soldiers. This district was not far, as distances go in America from the
+scene of action. Presently we commence our run through the great barren
+alkali plains, emerging from which we get into a more fertile country,
+and, at Cedar Pass, notice the great ranch of Messrs. Sparks and Tinnin,
+who are reputed to have 100,000 head of cattle. Mr. Byrne, of Elko,
+Nevada, also the owner of a large ranch, was on board the cars, and gave
+me some useful information. He said that cattle raising is very
+profitable, as they double in number every four years, _i.e._, a profit
+of 25 per cent.; thus, if a man start with a 1,000 head of stock cattle,
+he will have 4,000 head in four years.
+
+If a thousand head of stock cattle were purchased off a ranch, they
+would be sold just as they run, without any selection whatever--steers,
+heifers, cows, calves, bulls, yearlings, both sexes and all ages, but
+calves which still suck their mothers are not counted, and go for
+nothing. Many head of cattle perish in the winter, when the land is
+covered with snow, as on many large ranches no food is given them. I
+urged that it would pay to have stock-yards and give food during the
+snow time, and Mr. Byrne said that he always did so himself, and that
+the great ranch men were having their eyes opened to this necessity.
+
+We passed various other encampments of Indians, and far from any
+encampment or habitation saw an Indian on the track carrying a small
+light bundle, and following him a long way behind was his squaw,
+labouring under a very heavy burden.
+
+During this day we ran through ranges of uneven mountains, rising one
+above another in broken undulations and with ever-varying tops, such as
+table lands, sharp conical peaks, rounded heads, and broken
+indentations.
+
+The distant mountains are enveloped in snow, upon which gleams a
+resplendent setting sun, presenting a prospect which only such a region
+could produce. From the dazzling whiteness of one range we look upon the
+dense darkness of another, as being out of the sun's influence. The
+lights and shades, the gorges, the fissures, the striations in the range
+upon range, with their intervals of plains and valleys, here and there
+opening up peeps of great tracts of country, and then again shutting
+all in to the circumference of their gigantic heads, interspersed with
+the brilliance of rich gold, tingeing some tops and revealing dark
+recesses, some ruby tints and fantastic shadows,--all combine to reflect
+a glory which lifts the mind beyond the great heights of hills to a
+height, greater still, whence originated all natural grandeur.
+
+We had run through Utah and Nevada, and were now approaching the
+northern part of California. In the very early morning of December 6th I
+awoke and found that the train was at a standstill. Thinking that we
+were at a station I tried to sleep again, but, finding that we continued
+motionless, I went out on to the platform connecting our car with the
+next and found all around was deep snow, and that another train on the
+other metals had broken down, and that our men were apparently helping
+to get it off. We were then two miles from Truckee, and at an elevation
+of nearly 6,000 feet. After a long delay we got away and ran into
+Truckee. The scenery on this day was also of a truly grand character:
+precipices, declivities, chasms; and in one very romantic spot, of weird
+and wild mountain sides, graduating to narrow gullies, with pine and
+other trees, some perfect, others broken by the wind was one great
+wreck of a forest monster--a tree rudely snapped asunder by wind or
+lightning, about 40 feet from the ground, and stripped of every branch,
+so that it looked like a broken column; on its top sat a great vulture
+in the well-known attitude of its kind, as motionless as rock, and
+apparently meditating on the incongruity of a noisy, vulgar bit of
+machinery, with its train of cars, invading such a nook of Nature's
+solitudes.
+
+As we proceeded we came upon the succession of Placer gold diggings,
+known as the hydraulic mines, which were then for the most part
+abandoned, and these brought to my remembrance many similar spots I had
+seen in Australia. The _débris_ of the mines had stopped up, or
+diverted, or otherwise interfered with the Sacramento River, the Bear
+River, and other rivers, to the great detriment of agriculture,
+horticulture, stock rearing, etc., whereupon the State Legislature of
+California passed an Act to prohibit all interference with the water,
+for without water the miners could not wash their dirt, and so had to
+abandon the diggings. All around this part, ravine followed ravine, with
+beautiful vistas between, affording a continuous luxury of scenic
+gratification. Presently we reached what is called by many the grandest
+scenery on the American Continent, known as Cape Horn; it is where the
+train winds round a mountain side, on a narrow ledge, and at such a
+height, that to hold one's hand out of the window would be to hold it
+over a sheer precipice of 2,500 feet. The train runs along the ledge or
+narrow roadway cut in the face of the mountain rock, and all around is
+presented a spectacle of the majesty of Nature, which only such a range
+of mountains as the Sierra Nevada could produce.
+
+About 14 miles from Truckee, we reach a station called "Summit," which
+lies at an elevation of 7,017 feet, and is the highest point on the
+Sierra Nevada Mountains reached by railroads, but the granite peaks rise
+up to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Grizzly bears, and other wild
+creatures, find their homes in the recesses of these fastnesses. On
+leaving these mountains we make a rapid descent, and in an hour feel
+that we are in another country. At Colfax I bought fruit; at Arlington
+the temperature was like summer. At Rockling Station I saw some very
+fine orange trees, full of splendid fruit. Now we have entered the
+fertile plains of North California, and run through cultivated lands,
+till we reach Sacramento, the capital of the State. It is a great
+change: from desert, alkaline plains, miles of snow sheds, snow-covered
+mountains, a semi-civilization, and a freezing atmosphere, we find
+ourselves in a warm, genial climate, cultivated farms, vineyards,
+gardens, and orchards of nectarines, pears, apples, and the rest.
+
+Arriving at Oakland, we crossed the Bay in the great ferry-ship, or
+floating wharf, "Piedmont." The weather was charming--the bay dotted
+about with islands and surrounded by hills. The temperature was the more
+enjoyable from the fact that only a few hours before we were surrounded
+by deep snow.
+
+On arriving at San Francisco (on Saturday, December 6th), I went
+straight to the Palace Hotel, and my first effort was to get a bath, for
+a continuous day and night run from New York of 3,367 miles, makes one
+who is accustomed to the use of plenty of water to look for a good
+ablution as the first refresher. The Palace Hotel claims to be the
+"model hotel of the world." Its architect visited the leading hotels of
+Europe so as to produce a hotel superior to any. As to size, it occupies
+a complete block--that is, it has a street traversing each side of it.
+It rises to a height of 120 feet, and covers an area 350 feet by 275
+feet--that is, 96,250 square feet, or nearly 2-3/4 acres, and, with
+sub-sidewalk extensions, exceeds three acres. The lower story is 27 feet
+high, the uppermost one 16 feet high. The foundation wall is 12 feet
+thick, and the principal materials are stone, iron, brick, and marble.
+Every partition wall throughout is stone and brick. It is fire and
+earthquake proof, the walls being additionally tied by iron bands. It
+has four artesian wells, yielding 28,000 gallons of water an hour, a
+630,000 gallon reservoir, and tanks holding 130,000 gallons more. The
+water is served by three large steam fire pumps, which throw the water
+above the roof. There are five patent safety-catch hydraulic elevators
+(or lifts). Immense precautions have been taken against fire. The
+dining-rooms are 150 feet by 55 feet, and 100 feet by 50 feet. The
+public rooms are very numerous, and are of immense size. The rooms for
+guests are principally 20 feet by 20 feet; none are less than 16 feet by
+16 feet; all are well furnished. The corridors are like streets--space,
+elegance, solidity, and comfort are apparent everywhere; the whole being
+lighted by gas and electricity. Each bedroom has a bath-room, with hot
+and cold water services; w.c., coat-closet, and lavatory closet, with
+hot and cold water services to itself, and which can only be used by the
+occupant of the bed-room. The hotel, of course, has a barber's shop, and
+as I expected my client to call I was anxious to get through my toilet
+quickly; so I rang for one of the barber's assistants to come to my
+bed-room to cut my hair preparatory to the bath. This did not take long,
+and I asked the price, when, to my surprise, a dollar and a-half,
+_i.e.,_ 6s. 3d., was required. I thought it was barbarism indeed!
+
+I left San Francisco on Monday, December 8th, and during my short stay I
+saw something of the town; but it was not the same place as I remembered
+it from my two visits to it in 1862. It is full of life and activity,
+has many wealthy men, 50 of whom, it is said, are millionaires. It has a
+large number of grand buildings, fine shops, extensive markets,
+beautiful private residences, and an immense development of electricity
+for motion, light, sound, etc. The tram-cars run in constant succession
+everywhere; but the most remarkable cars are those worked by an endless
+cable. In the city are works with immense steam power, and from these
+works endless cables revolve throughout the city, under the roads, in
+various directions. In the bed of the tramway is a groove, under which
+is the cable, revolving at a great speed. The driver of the car lets
+down his grip, which tightly holds the cable, and, of course, the car
+starts at full speed, and is carried along by the cable. When the driver
+wants to stop, he lets go his grip on the cable and applies his brake.
+Some of the hills in San Francisco are very steep, and the first
+sensation in riding on the outside front seat, while going full speed
+down a sharp declivity, is certainly novel, with no apparent motive
+power, and no apparent means of stopping. The speed, of course, is
+always the same, whether up or down hill, or on level ground. Telegraph
+Hill is 394 feet high, Clay Street Hill 376 feet, and Russian Hill 360
+feet. A San Francisco Sunday is painful to one accustomed to our English
+ways; travelling in every form, and buying and selling are very
+prevalent. The Y.M.C.A. have a large building there, and get large
+meetings. I attended one gathering, which I addressed shortly.
+
+San Francisco is described as having "the mildest and most equable
+climate known to any large city in the world." January is the coldest
+month, and the mean temperature then is stated to be 50°. September is
+the hottest month, and the mean temperature then is stated to be 58°.
+Thus only 8° difference between the coldest and warmest months, and the
+average for the whole year is 54°.
+
+San Francisco has a population of about 300,000 (including some 40,000
+Chinese), is the principal city of the State of California, and the
+principal commercial centre on the Pacific coast. I must not, however,
+dwell longer on this part of my journey. On Monday, December 8th, I left
+San Francisco with one of my clients, Mr. C.H. Huffman, for Merced, by
+the 4 p.m train. The sun was shining gloriously, producing a charming
+effect upon the placid waters of the Bay and its beautiful surrounding
+hills.
+
+
+SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW ORLEANS.
+
+The train reached Merced at 10.23 on Monday night, December 8th, 1890,
+where I was met, and in a spacious family buggy, drawn by a pair of good
+horses, I was very soon at the residence of my client, Mr. C.H. Huffman.
+The continuous day and night travelling by rail, and the taking of
+voluminous notes all along, had caused a constant excitement which told
+upon the nerves, and for two days I felt as though I needed absolute
+rest, but, remembering that I had already been long absent from my
+office, I commenced my work at Merced the next morning. The town of
+Merced is the capital of the county of that name; it is not many years
+old, but it has a striking difference to many new small towns I have
+seen in the Colonies, in that it has several very good buildings and
+residences. It has seven churches and chapels of various denominations,
+some good shops, medical men, society, schools, gas, water, electricity,
+and a station on the main Great Southern Pacific Railway. It is
+undoubtedly a town which must rapidly increase in value, for this
+reason: My clients, Messrs. Crocker and Huffman, at a cost of some two
+million dollars, have tapped the Great Merced River 25 miles off, and
+brought water down to the town and irrigated the country round. They
+have formed a reservoir 640 acres in extent. Hitherto the rich lands
+around the town of Merced have not been irrigated, and consequently were
+not suitable for growing the Fruits for which California is so famous;
+but, now that a system of canals, formed by my clients, has irrigated
+their estate, extending over some 50,000 or 60,000 acres, the whole of
+this great area is changed in value, and is available, and will
+eventually be used, for the production of choice Fruits. Thus, Merced
+will become a centre, like other parts of California, and, being so much
+nearer than those other parts to San Francisco, will benefit
+additionally by that advantage alone. Merced is only 152 miles from San
+Francisco, while Fresno is 207, Bakersfield 314, and Los Angeles, 483
+miles. It is rumoured that another line of railway will also be formed
+in connection with the present main line, and Merced would then be an
+important railway junction. I drove out every day with Mr. Huffman, and
+inspected the country for some miles around the town, including the
+Merced River, 25 miles off. The land designated British Colony, is, at
+its commencement, only two miles from the Merced Railway Station, hotel,
+and shops. Mr. Huffman has a most comfortable residence, and has
+excellent stables, well filled with first-class buggy horses, so that
+travelling was always an easy matter. Being a lay preacher in England, I
+took advantage of offers made me, and preached on the Sunday I was at
+Merced in two of the churches at the morning and evening services.
+
+I left Merced on Tuesday night, December 16th, by the 10.23 train,
+having stayed there eight days. I immediately "turned in," and next
+morning (December 17th) was up as usual at 6.30, and much enjoyed the
+splendid scenery through which we were passing--in a mountainous
+country, grandly diversified with all the alternations of heights and
+depths, lights and darks, rich and barren, including many evidences of
+engineering skill--as we coursed along, now looking high up, now looking
+low down, and presently winding along the celebrated "loop," described
+as the "greatest engineering feat in the world," by which the train goes
+through mountain passes, creeping along the tops of eminences, then
+returning, crosses under itself at a low level, then, ascending, crosses
+over itself at a higher level, so that in its meandering course you now
+look down at your side on the line you have just traversed, and anon
+look up at your side at the line you are about to traverse. We passed
+through the Mojava (pronounced Moharvie) desert, where the yucca palm is
+plentiful. A fellow passenger, and old settler, enlivened the time by
+some relations of his experiences thus: He once shot a grizzly bear
+which weighed 1,500 lbs. Some are much larger than this. Everything of
+weight in America is generally reckoned by pounds, not cwts. or tons. On
+another occasion he slew a Californian lion. He had killed a bullock,
+and the carcase was hanging in his house at the back, where was an
+aperture like a small window without glass, and under this opening
+outside stood an empty case. The lion scenting the carcase, and hearing
+no sound from within, approached the house, and was endeavouring to
+creep through the aperture when, in its efforts to do so, it kicked the
+case away, and the poor animal was stuck fast, having its head and
+shoulders inside. My fellow traveller, on returning home, was surprised
+to find his visitor, and so despatched him with an axe, and has for
+years used the skin, which is 9 feet 8 inches long. The temperature was
+charming, although in the distance we could see the snow-capped
+mountains. We run through the antelope valley, gather some juniper
+plant, see a skunk, see natural oil wells at Saugus, pass the head of
+the Santa Clara Valley, see the San Fernando mountains, go through the
+greatest tunnel in America--the San Fernando tunnel, 6,967 feet long,
+go by Burbank, where there is a land boom, and arrive at Los Angeles,
+where during the two hours of waiting I have a look at the town and a
+pleasant chat with Mr. White Mortimer, the British Consul, whom I called
+upon. The next day (December 18th) we were on the desert of Arizona,
+where we saw Indian camps at places which were somewhat oases as to
+plant life. Speaking generally, nothing grows on a great part of this
+desert but cactus, of which I am told there are some 200 varieties, from
+the dwarf kind to trees 40 feet high. This plant has a strange if not a
+weird appearance. Here and there, like solitary sentinels, stands out a
+tall cactus, with perhaps two or three heads or branches, growing
+perpendicularly with itself. The mountains on either side look as if
+they had their origin in volcanic eruptions.
+
+Some parts of the desert are covered with a dwarf kind of evergreen
+shrub. We see large numbers of prairie dogs, which are of a size between
+a rat and a rabbit; they live in holes like rabbits. There are also
+gophers, skunks, prairie rats, rattlesnakes, and hawks, which feed on
+snakes and rats. We pass tribes of Yuma Indians, Aztec Indians and Gila
+(pronounced Heela) Indians. On reaching a part where is some grass we
+see some cattle, which are straying on the line; the engine whistle
+shrieks, the cattle run, and some coyote wolves are startled from their
+lairs and run, too; large numbers are here, and the preceding night
+their yells aroused some passengers from sleep. As we proceed, quail are
+seen, and wild cats something like a lynx. Arriving at Tucson
+(pronounced Tewsohn), I enquired for a gentleman to whom I had an
+introduction, but learned that he was up at his gold mine. This Tucson
+is an ancient city, having been founded by the Jesuits in 1560 A.D. It
+does a large business in exporting gold dust, wool, and hides. I expect
+that these mountains of Arizona contain much value in minerals. The
+Indians in this part of the country are the Apaches, and were described
+to me as the most treacherous of all the American Indians, that they are
+cowardly and will never fight in the open. A gentleman who entered the
+train at Tucson gave me many instances of this. In the evening we saw
+"cow-boys" round their fire camping out in the open, and also a camp of
+freighters resting on their journey across the desert. The next morning
+early (December 19th) we arrived at El Paso, a most interesting Mexican
+town situate on the borders of Old Mexico, New Mexico and Texas, where I
+bought the skin of a Mexican tiger, and other things.
+
+In travelling for some days in a train continuously one feels the need
+of exercise, and this I obtained by getting in and out of many of the
+railway stations and walking up and down. Between San Francisco and New
+Orleans there are 322 stations, and I should suppose the number of
+stations on both the Northern and Southern routes I traversed would
+probably amount to nearly 700.
+
+We are now commencing to cross the great plains of Texas. At first the
+plains are desert, with mountains skirting our view; the scenery is less
+interesting than the Arizona desert, because there are no cacti. This
+desert has probably been under salt water at some time. The rocky hills
+appear to have a volcanic origin. As we go on, we reach a poor kind of
+pasture, growing out of a scrubby kind of shrub, with some occasional
+cacti, many hills and mountains like barren rocks, with not a bird or an
+animal to be seen. The weather has been warm since leaving Merced, but
+now, so far south as we are, it is hot on this December day. I had read
+in the short telegrams given by American papers, that the winter was
+very severe in England, and I pictured often to myself, friends and
+clients in England muffled up amidst frost and snow, whilst I was
+revelling in glorious sunshine, so warm that no greatcoat could be worn.
+Had I returned by the route I went (the Northern Prairies), I might have
+been delayed by snow drifts, but by this, the Southern route, there was
+no snow, but a continuous, cheerful, delightful sunshine, not too hot
+anywhere, but simply delightful. I should certainly recommend anyone
+going from England to California in the winter season, to go by the
+Southern route. Amongst the objects of interest, we notice in the
+distance a small herd of 14 wild antelope trotting along; cattle, coyote
+wolves, and, at many places, the well-picked bones of animals which had
+dropped dead, or, when weak, had been killed or eaten by carnivora or
+reptiles. We saw large numbers of prairie dogs; they sit outside their
+holes like a squirrel, on their haunches, with their fore paws up; they
+are very quick, and most difficult even to shoot. More antelopes and
+coyotes. At a station called Alpine were several cowboys, all armed with
+revolvers and cartridge belts, and some with dagger knives too; their
+mustangs were hitched up close by. These cowboys are some old and some
+young men, some wild and some cultivated, some never educated, some have
+gone through Harvard, or Oxford, or Cambridge, some the sons of English
+county gentlemen and noblemen--but all cowboys, _i.e.,_ men who live on
+ranches where large herds of cattle or horses are bred, and whose duty
+it is to ride over the wild rough country to know where the herds of
+cattle and horses are feeding, so that if they need to be ridden up for
+cutting or branding, or selling, they may be found. I was told that this
+was one of the "hardest" places for a cowboy, _i.e.,_ one of the
+wickedest, meaning that when they visit it, it is for a "spree," and
+they get drunk, and fights and murders follow. I was pointed to a little
+cemetery on a hill, enclosed by a white fence, and was told that it
+contained 150 bodies, and that only 50 had died a natural death; the
+others had been shot or otherwise murdered in drunken frays and other
+ways. Many strange little histories were told me about these men, but
+which I have no time to record here. In some parts of the country where
+water was very scarce, there seemed to be no vegetation, and the cattle
+seemed to wander solitarily along, a mere heap of hide and bone. At
+many stations I had quite a considerable interval for running about,
+such as when a wheel caught fire, which happened two or three times, or
+some freight had to be taken in, or taken out, etc. When the train again
+starts, the conductors shout "All aboard," and there is a general rush.
+
+The next day (December 20th) was again a brilliant day of sunshine; we
+see many buzzards, and breakfast at San Antonio. The railway stations
+along this country have two roofs, one being two or three feet above the
+other, so that air between should keep the building cool. At breakfast,
+I read the San Antonio _Daily Express_, which informed me "severe storms
+prevailed everywhere in Great Britain," and my thoughts were naturally
+much occupied with the Old Country. The day was sultry, but sunshine is
+always a great treat to me, and it was never too hot.
+
+Now we are running into civilization again, and I catch sight of a man
+ploughing; he has a pair of mules, and is holding the reins in his
+teeth. As we proceed, it is a continuous succession of cotton fields,
+cotton fields, cotton fields. We see many bales; these weigh from 475 to
+600 lbs. each. At a station called Sequin, I obtained lots of cotton
+seeds, and gathered some cotton in the fields as we went along. The
+scavengers of this country are Turkey buzzards, which are protected by
+law because of their usefulness.
+
+I could not refrain from writing several times in my note-book,
+"glorious sunshine." Hitherto we have had mountains continuously in
+sight, but now they are out of vision. This being Saturday we see
+markets at the towns we go through; at Habwood and Flatonia especially
+was this noticeable. The population seemed almost altogether negro. I
+observed a negro and his wife, well dressed, riding on horseback in the
+old English pillion style; another negro and his wife, and about twelve
+children, in a capacious kind of wagon-buggy, and many negroes and
+negresses, the latter dressed in white and gay colours, standing at
+their pretty verandahed cottages.
+
+We now pass a spot where a train was stopped and the passengers robbed
+some time ago, by Jesse and Frank Jeames and the Ford Brothers. The
+_modus operandi_ is for all the men to be secreted but one, who stands
+on the line holding up a red flag which indicates danger; the engineer
+then stops and the men spring aboard; some hold revolvers to the heads
+of the engineers, and others go through the train and rob the
+passengers. The robbers shout out "hands up," and one man points his
+weapon at the passenger's head, whilst another rifles his pockets. If a
+passenger fails to hold up his hands he is shot down. A passenger on the
+Northern Prairies told me of a fellow passenger, who under such
+circumstances having a revolver, aimed at a robber and pulled the
+trigger, but it missed fire, and he was instantly shot down. But these
+attacks are now more rare, and the officials are more prepared for them.
+Sometimes the robbers get on board the train as passengers, and act
+suddenly in concert. All along the country now we pass the cabins of the
+slaves, familiarised to us by "Uncle Tom's Cabin." These cabins are
+pleasant little houses with verandahs, and I reflected how favourably
+they compared with the "homes" of many of the London poor, and how happy
+the slaves might have been but for the knowledge that at any time they
+were liable to be sold like a mule or a bullock. Now we pass sugar,
+cotton and rice plantations, and go through such cultivations all
+through Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, North and South Carolina,
+Georgia, and Virginia. I gathered sugar and cotton going along at
+places, saw a racoon in a stream fishing for crawfish, and go through a
+country, in which are plenty of alligators.
+
+On the early morning of Sunday (December 21st), we go through swamps,
+such as we used to read of as the hiding-places of runaway slaves. All
+through these Southern States we saw everywhere sugar and cotton, sugar
+and cotton, sugar and cotton; these, with rice, are the principal
+products; sugar mills, cotton yards, etc., etc. We soon reach Algiers,
+and cross the grand Mississippi River, then land at New Orleans. The
+actual city of New Orleans covers an area of about 41 square miles, but
+the statutory limits of the city embrace nearly 150 square miles. It is
+situate on both banks of the Mississippi River, and from 1,000 to 1,500
+steamers and other vessels, from all parts of the world, may frequently
+be seen lying there. New Orleans is the chief market in the world for
+cotton. The site of the city was surveyed in 1717 by De la Tour, and it
+was settled in 1718, but abandoned in consequence of overflows, storms,
+and sickness; it was resettled in 1723, held by the French till 1729,
+then by the Spaniards till 1801, by the French again till 1803, and
+then, with the Province of Louisiana, was ceded to the United States.
+The present population is about 250,000. There are 33 cemeteries, and
+they are remarkable, inasmuch as the bodies are buried above ground, in
+vaults like tiers of ovens; the ground is too wet for burial. I attended
+Trinity Church in the morning, had some black bear for dinner at my
+hotel, the "Hotel St. Charles," and then attended the Y.M.C.A., where I
+gave the address in the afternoon, which was followed by a very solemn
+after meeting. I went to bed very early, and was up very early the next
+morning (Monday, December 22nd). I had to draw the mosquito curtains in
+the night, but not till after some of these insects had left their mark.
+The principal ground floor of the hotel was on the first floor level,
+and the actual ground floor was of secondary importance; the front part
+was occupied by stone steps and a colonnade, and the rear was a liquor
+bar and a large hall. This hall used to be one of the principal auction
+rooms of the city, where slaves were sold by auction; and as I entered
+the now rather desolate-looking place, which is partly circular in
+shape and constructed with many pillar supports, I pictured to myself
+the emotional agonies, the tempests of passion, the lust of greed, the
+calm, subdued, resistless attitude of despair which at times found
+expression, as domestic circles were for ever broken, tenderest
+sympathies for ever sundered, closest friendships for ever
+separated--yea, even the most sacred relationships of life ruthlessly
+shattered, by the sale of mothers or fathers, brothers or sisters, wives
+or husbands, sweethearts or friends. Of this I will give just two
+illustrations: Our porter on the train crossing the Northern Prairies
+was a coloured man named Farrell; he told me that his mother had seven
+boys, and that they were all sold away from her, and that it had been
+his life-work to try to find his brothers. He had shipped to Australia
+as a seaman, had worked in hotels, and on wharves and rivers, and now
+was working on the railway cars endeavouring to find his brothers; he
+had advertised for them in the newspapers, but he had never heard of one
+of them. When this family was broken up, Farrell and his brothers were
+only boys; for it will be remembered that the date of the official
+announcement of the total abolition of slavery in the United States was
+made on the 18th December, 1862, when upwards of 4,000,000 slaves were
+legally declared free men. Another coloured man engaged at this hotel,
+who was born a slave, remembered walking with his father, who was also a
+slave, and his father's anxiety to get home before nine o'clock at
+night, as no coloured man was allowed to be in the streets after that
+hour unless he possessed a sufficient authority from his owner. This man
+told me that at an auction of slaves at this hotel (auctions of slaves
+were held in New Orleans at different places three times a week) a very
+fine intelligent young man was sold by auction for 2,100 dollars to a
+lawyer who was known to be a cruel man. My informant told me that his
+name was--well, it sounded like Rumo, possibly Roumeaux, as most of the
+wealthy settlers were of French origin, that he lived in St. James'
+Ward, and that when he bought slaves and sent them down to his
+plantations, they each received twenty-five lashes as they entered his
+gates, as an example, of what they would receive if they did not please
+him. Well, when the hammer fell and this slave knew that he belonged to
+an owner whose cruelty was common talk, he exclaimed, "You have lost
+your money." This slave was sent down with others to the steamer on the
+Mississippi (which is only some ten minutes' walk from the hotel), for
+shipment to this owner's plantations. The poor fellow was not even
+allowed to say good-bye to his people, but was sent on board. When he
+arrived there, he repeated to the man in charge of the slaves, "Mr. Rumo
+will lose his money," and shortly after he took advantage of a
+favourable moment, and, folding his arms, he threw himself backward into
+the river, and was drowned.
+
+A few minutes' walk from my hotel is the Henry Clay monument, where the
+mob was addressed last month by Mr. Parkerson, who incited them to
+proceed to the prison and force an entrance, and then to take the lives
+of a number of Italian murderers by lynch law. On this monument some
+memorable words are inscribed which Mr. Clay uttered, and which T
+copied. They are as follows:--"If I could be instrumental in eradicating
+this deep stain, slavery, from the character of our country, I would not
+exchange the proud satisfaction which I should enjoy for the honour of
+all the triumphs ever decreed to the most successful conqueror." That
+deep stain was removed in 1862, and slaves were raised from the
+condition of cattle to that of men, who could thenceforward rejoice in
+the freedom of being masters of their own bodies.
+
+
+NEW ORLEANS TO LONDON.
+
+On leaving New Orleans we run through swamps, and presently skirt the
+Gulf of Mexico and travel on. The next day (December 23rd), we feel it
+perceptibly colder, for we are going north. The country is cultivated in
+sugar, cotton, rice, grass, etc. We breakfast at Atlanta, and after
+leaving that place, the scenery puts me more in mind of England. In
+going through Georgia, I was told that the same black families which now
+occupy many of the small wooden houses, or "cabins," which I see, are
+the same families who occupied them before the abolition of slavery.
+Although many slaves suffered cruelties through enforced separations and
+hard treatment, yet very many had most comfortable homes, considerate
+masters, and light work. I sat much during this day on the platform at
+the end of the end car, observing the country. At one station some
+little black urchins came to gaze, and I said to one boy, apparently
+seven years old, "What is your name?" He said, "Willie Matthews." I
+said, "How old are you? " He said, "I ain't old enough to know how old I
+are." And his genuine simplicity delighted me.
+
+We are now passing through cultivated lands, farms, and estates, and
+these continue right on to New York. At Greers was a very large
+collection of cotton. At Spartanville are large cotton mills, such as
+one sees in Lancashire. The next day (December 24th), we notice ice on
+the ponds. We cross the Potomac River, and near Washington, sight the
+Capitol--or, as we should say in England, the Houses of Parliament.
+Washington City is the political capital of the United States. Its size
+is about 4-1/2 miles by 2-1/2 miles. The Capitol is described by the
+Americans as the most magnificent public edifice in the world. It is 352
+feet long and 121 feet deep, with two wings each 238 by 140 feet. Its
+entire length is 751 feet 4 inches, and it covers an area of more than
+3-1/2 acres. It is of costly construction, and stands in grounds of
+about 50 acres.
+
+We proceed, and stop at Baltimore, cross the Bush and Gunpowder Rivers,
+again come near the Susquehanna and Delaware Rivers, various smaller
+rivers, and run on until we reach New York. On arrival, I immediately
+went to the Cunard office and secured my berth in the "Servia." The next
+morning (Christmas Day), it was very cold, and snowing. I had a fire lit
+in my bed-room, and there wrote the article which appeared in the
+January _Land Roll_. In the afternoon I walked in the Central Park, but
+it was so bitterly cold, I was satisfied with less than two hours of
+exercise, and returned to the hotel to dinner, and finished up the day
+writing in my bed-room till midnight. The Central Park, in genial
+weather, would be an attractive resort. I observed large natural rocks,
+lawns, wide promenades, seats, lakes, menageries, swings, and various
+such like attractions for juveniles, overground and underground roads--a
+kind of "Rotten Row," &c., but being so cold scarcely a person was to be
+seen.
+
+On December 26th, New York was deep in snow. I visited a few shops for
+some necessaries, and went on board the "Servia" during the afternoon,
+thinking that I might have difficulty in getting a cabman to drive to
+the docks after dark if the snow drifted deeply. New York City is the
+metropolis of the United States. In 1880 its population was 1,206,590.
+Its site was discovered in 1524. It was in 1609 that Hudson, an
+Englishman, ascended the river which was named after him. In 1614 some
+Dutchmen settled there. In 1648 its population was 1,000, and in 1700 it
+had increased to 6,000. In 1684 it was captured by the Duke of York, and
+was henceforth called "New York." In 1711 a slave market was established
+in Wall Street.
+
+On December 27th, about 5 o'clock in the morning, we began to clear out
+of the dock, and in a few hours were again on the broad Atlantic. The
+next day (Sunday, December 28th), we had service on board, conducted by
+the doctor in the saloon: all on board not actually on duty may attend.
+We left New York in a blizzard, and our decks were coated with frost and
+snow, but after two days this was all cleared away, and we had a
+splendid run in genial weather, so that one day I could comfortably walk
+on deck without a greatcoat.
+
+Our run was--from Sandy Hook Lighthouse (45 miles) to noon of December
+28th, 373 miles; noon of December 29th, 379 miles; December 30th, 375
+miles; December 31st, 878 miles; January 1st, 1891, 372 miles; January
+2nd, 362 miles; January 3rd, 371 miles; thence, to Queenstown, 169
+miles; and from Queenstown to Liverpool, 240 miles; making a total of
+3,064 miles. The passage in the "Etruria," going out, was 3,062 miles.
+The "Servia" is a fine ship, but much older than the "Etruria," and her
+engines, consequently, are not capable of the speed of a newer vessel.
+Her cargo capacity is 6,500 tons, with 1,800 tons of coal and 1,000 tons
+of water ballast. Her horse-power is equal to 10,500. The saloon is 74
+by 49 feet, and is capable of seating 350 persons. The "Servia" has
+cabin accommodation for 500 saloon and 600 steerage passengers, besides
+a crew of 200 officers and men. When there are more than 350 saloon
+passengers, each meal has to be served in two relays.
+
+An interesting incident occurred during the passage: I discovered that
+our captain (now commanding the "Aurania") was a shipmate of mine in
+1855, when I was a midshipman. I reached my office in Lincoln's Inn
+Fields at 8 o'clock on the morning of January 5th, having been absent
+just about six weeks. The distances were as follows:--
+
+ Liverpool to New York 3,062 miles.
+ New York to Chicago 913 "
+ Chicago to Council Bluffs 488 "
+ Council Bluffs to San Francisco 1,867 "
+ San Francisco to Merced 152 "
+ Merced to New Orleans 2,344 "
+ New Orleans to Washington 1,144 "
+ Washington to New York 228 "
+ New York to Liverpool 3,064 "
+ London to Liverpool 201 "
+ Liverpool to London 201 "
+ Journeys in buggies, tram-cars, &c. 110 "
+ --------
+ 13,774 "
+
+I must conclude with some general remarks:--
+
+The _Times_ recently published a series of ten articles on the "Negro
+Question in the United States," and from them it appears that the
+position of that country is very serious in this relation. These
+articles commenced after I had started on my journey, so that I only saw
+one or two of the concluding ones and the _Times_ leader upon the whole,
+but I was not surprised to see them, because in passing through the
+States which are principally peopled by negroes, I heard something
+about the matter from a thoughtful man, who regarded the subject with
+great gravity. The _Times_ has shown that the attitude of one race to
+the other is that of "antagonism, discontent, and perpetual danger."
+
+The negroes have the same constitutional privileges as the whites, and
+their overpowering numbers in certain places give the power into their
+hands, which, regarded in relation to racial hatred, renders them to be
+an object of danger to the country. It is proposed to emigrate the
+negroes to some part of Africa. It would be more consistent for certain
+Americans to interest themselves in solving this problem of their own
+rather than encouraging Irish agitators, and so assisting to prevent
+England solving her dark problem across St. George's Channel.
+
+The proportion of coloured people to white in the three states of
+Georgia, Louisiana, and Alabama, is about equal, that is, there are as
+many coloured people as white. The population of coloured people
+throughout the whole of the United States is about 7,000,000 of coloured
+people to 59,000,000 of white people, but it is a sad fact, as stated in
+the _Times_ of March 7th last, that a Government return, dated June
+1st, 1890, showed that there were 45,233 convicts in the prisons of the
+United States, and that of this number no less than 14,687, or one-third
+were coloured people, and that out of these coloured people only 237
+were Chinese, 3 Japanese, and 180 Indians, so that 14,267 were negroes.
+As the whites, counting all the States, are eight times as numerous as
+the coloured people, and yet the coloured convicts are one-third of the
+whole, it speaks badly for the morals of the negro race in America.
+
+I was much struck with the immense development of electricity. Steamers,
+railway carriages, tramcars, hotels, shops, towns, villages, and railway
+stations, even those in remote places, with scarcely a building near to
+them, were all well lighted by electricity.
+
+Railways run on scaffoldings down the centre of the streets, and horses
+with their vehicles run underneath them. The railway trains are well
+heated throughout by hot water pipes (every class), and reflect a grave
+reproach on our country, where, in the severest weather, it is difficult
+to get a foot warmer, except by certain main line trains, and, even
+then, one is expected to "tip" the attendant. Poor persons travelling in
+thin garments and poorly fed, in severe weather, scarcely ever dare to
+ask for a foot warmer unless they are prepared to fee someone, and,
+whether rich or poor, no one can get a foot warmer at any of our country
+stations. When we consider that railways originated in this country, and
+that some of the parts of America I passed through were, some 50, some
+40, and some even 30 years ago, only known to the trapper and the
+Indian, it shows the increase of enterprise exhibited by our cousins
+over the Atlantic.
+
+Tramcars are worked by electricity, by steam, by horses and mules, and
+by revolving endless cables. Telephones are everywhere. The railway
+journeys in America often occupying several days, the tickets are a kind
+of succession of coupons, parts of which have to be given up at various
+stages. Caution is exercised in selling railway tickets for long
+journeys--thus, you are required to sign the ticket, and observations
+are made of you, such as your height, probable age, colour of your eyes,
+hair, etc. Some of the lines of railway are not fenced in, not even in
+towns, so that the train runs through a town as openly as does an
+omnibus. I may convey some idea of some of the large American systems
+of agriculture, by referring to the estate of one of my clients, Mr.
+C.H. Huffman, of Merced, California. This gentleman has fields ranging
+from 1,000 to 15,000 acres each. He can plough 400 to 500 acres a day.
+By his traction engine he can strike 12 furrows at a time. He can put 70
+teams (of eight mules or horses each) to work at one time. Each
+harvester will cut, thrash, and sack an average of 50 acres a day. The
+front part of the machine faces the standing wheat in the field, in the
+centre of the machine it is thrashed and winnowed, and at the rear it is
+thrown out in sacks ready for market. Mr. Huffman can sit in his study
+at home, and by his telephone talk to his clerks at Merced (he is the
+banker there), as well as to the foremen at his various ranches for 25
+miles round the country. I particularly noticed one of his fields of
+wheat, comprising 2,000 acres, as level and clean as a well-kept lady's
+flower garden in England.
+
+The Americans have a greater variety of foods served at their meals than
+we do, but I never got the flavour of meat cut from a joint to equal
+that which, when really well roasted and served, we get in England. As
+to bread, I never tasted bread worth the name, from the time I left
+London to the time I returned to it. Alike on the Cunard steamers, cars,
+hotels, etc., you can get no wholemeal bread. French and Vienna breads,
+and other very white abortions of that kind are obtainable in abundance,
+and even a kind of brown bread, and "Graham's" bread, but good honest
+wholemeal bread, containing all the properties of the full kernel of the
+wheat, it is impossible to get, and this to me was a very great
+deprivation, as my _principal_ article of food is _real_ wholemeal
+bread.
+
+The system of the custody of letters at the large American hotels
+appeared to me rather unsafe. A visitor asks for letters, whereupon
+there are handed to him all the letters in the pigeon-hole marked with
+the initial of which the visitor's name commences. The visitor then
+proceeds to look through them, and takes what he chooses, and hands the
+rest back. The official is too busy, or it is not customary for him, to
+look through them for the visitor, or even to watch the visitor in his
+process of selection. I noticed one gentleman with a packet of letters,
+I should think considerably over a hundred, every now and then slip one
+into his breast pocket and give a furtive glance, which did not inspire
+confidence, but probably this is a well accustomed habit of the people,
+and the letters, perhaps, are as safe as the newspapers I frequently saw
+deposited on the tops of the street letter boxes (outside the boxes),
+because they were too large to be put inside; of course anyone could
+have taken them, but the custom not to touch them is probably honourably
+recognized. The street letter boxes are quite small square boxes, not
+large pillar boxes as are ours in this country.
+
+I should like to have remarked more generally on America, but both time
+and space fail me. Of course, as most people know, the (to us)
+disgusting practice of spitting is common in America; spittoons are
+universally provided in public and private places. At Merced Court House
+is this notice: "Gentlemen will not, and others should not spit upon the
+floors." Huge spittoons are provided there.
+
+The awful guttural which precedes the constant expectoration of
+Americans is most trying. It excites in persons near them and who are
+unaccustomed to it, a sensation of necessity to vomit, as it conveys a
+fear that your neighbour is about to vomit over you. It is not the
+excusable expectoration arising from an accumalation in the air
+passages, but a continuous fusilade of saliva. It is a disgusting
+practice, and I believe will die out in America as its citizens travel
+more in the old countries and become used to manners more refined than
+such a one as this. I observed that my clients in California, who have
+travelled in Europe, and other travelled Americans, are not guilty of
+this odious practice.
+
+I would say to Englishmen travelling in America, don't condescend to the
+"guessing" and other loose styles of expression, and don't affect the
+nasal twang. Americans, with all their boast of one man being as good as
+another, are greatly pleased to entertain or travel with Englishmen
+having a title, and they pay a marked respect to Britishers who speak in
+a classical style, and who, while being devoid of foppishness, bounce,
+or vulgarity, conduct themselves with a genial dignity.
+
+
+
+
+=California.=
+
+
+I will now say something about California, and then proceed to describe
+the lands for sale, and the prospects of those who will settle upon
+them.
+
+California lies on the genial coast of the Pacific Ocean, midway between
+the too cold regions of the North and the too hot regions of the South.
+To be exact, the mean temperature in San Francisco in the month of
+January, averages about 49°. It has varied from 53° to 39°. The record
+of 32 years shows that between sunrise and sunset it has not been so low
+as 32° on more than 10 days. Snow is sometimes seen to fall, but it
+melts immediately.
+
+California has a bright, genial climate, and is described as
+"pre-eminently a sunny land." The early spring, commencing about the
+middle of February and lasting about six weeks, is a very pleasant part
+of the year, but April is described as the "cheeriest." December and
+January are the least pleasant, because it is the rainy and winter
+season.
+
+Thunderstorms are rare, and no hurricane has ever been known there. The
+rainfall of California is about twenty inches, and the rainy days number
+about sixty in the year, or about half the number of rainy days
+experienced in the Atlantic States or Central Europe.
+
+Amongst the fruits grown in abundance are the orange, grape, peach,
+apricot, plum, cherry, apple, nectarine, fig, lemon, lime, olive, date,
+and all the berries of value.
+
+Besides the immense growth of choice and luscious Fruits, for which
+California is famous all over the globe, it claims to have the largest
+milk, butter, and cheese dairies in the world. It is also renowned for
+its mineral riches, its immense mercantile business, its manufacturing
+industries, its production of wool, its gigantic timber, its wealth of
+beauty in flowers, its fast horses, its grand scenery, embracing lofty
+mountains, deep valleys, expansive fertile plains, and all the
+variations of a beautiful country, with many rivers, and a magnificent
+sea coast, whilst the "coast range" and the slopes of the "Sierra" offer
+to the sportsman such game in abundance as grizzly and cinnamon bears
+and Californian lions. There are also deer, hare, rabbit, quail, large
+flocks of wild ducks and geese, and the rivers afford such fish as
+salmon and trout, and the deep sea splendid fishing.
+
+San Francisco has been called "a city of 100 hills." It has a population
+of nearly 300,000 inhabitants, amongst whom are no less than 50
+_millionaires_. Its harbour is known all over the globe as the "Golden
+Gate," and it has answered well to its name, for an entrance to its vast
+resources has made the fortune of multitudes of people, and many going
+there now are laying the foundations for future wealth.
+
+The lands of California have the two essentials for successful
+culture--a rich soil and genial climate, with plenty of sun, yet never
+too hot and never too cold for out-door work, and most of its domestic
+animals are never housed, and require no food but wild herbage.
+
+
+FRUIT CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.
+
+Our lands at Merced, in California, offer to gentlemen wishing to make a
+first or a fresh start in life a really good opportunity. It is
+difficult to conceive how men with energy, enterprise, and a little
+capital, can be content to sit in an office in foggy, blocked-up
+London, "quill driving" from year's end to year's end, when a prospect
+is afforded them, such as we now offer, of establishing a pleasant home
+in a luxurious land, with a sunny, genial climate, and within about a
+fortnight's travel of England, and where they would have the liberty of
+being their own masters, and lay the foundation of a future competency.
+
+
+CURRENCY.
+
+As the currency in California is dollars, not pounds, we must ask our
+readers to accustom themselves to dollars. A dollar is 100 cents, and,
+roughly speaking, a cent is equivalent to a halfpenny, so that a dollar
+would be worth, of our money, four shillings and twopence. Its value,
+however, varies a few cents according to the place where it is
+exchanged. Bank of England notes or pounds are never worth less than
+four shillings and twopence, _i.e.,_ 480 cents or halfpennies, which, of
+course, is four dollars and 80 cents, there being 100 cents in a dollar.
+The decimal currency is extremely simple when once understood. Never
+less than 4.80 is given for an English pound, but sometimes 4.82 and
+4.85 is obtained.
+
+
+MERCED.
+
+The lands I have for sale are situate in the County of Merced, in
+California, about 150 miles by rail from the City of San Francisco, They
+are designated "British Colony," and at the nearest point are just one
+mile from the boundary of the town of Merced, and two miles from the
+railway station, hotel, shops, etc. Merced town is lighted by gas and
+electricity, has water laid on, telephones, telegraphs, Court House,
+Episcopal Church, Presbyterian Church, Cumberland Presbyterian Church,
+Methodist Church, South Methodist Church, Baptist Church, and Catholic
+Church, two schools, shops of various kinds; two railroads, the main one
+running up to San Francisco, and down to Los Angeles and on to New
+Orleans, etc., and the other, a branch line to Stockton, Sacramento,
+etc. Merced is 175 feet above the level of the sea; it is a pleasant
+little town, affords some congenial society, and I firmly believe will,
+before many years have passed, become an important centre, because my
+clients have brought water from the Merced River more than twenty miles
+off, by a system of canals, and have formed a reservoir of 640 acres in
+extent, with an average depth of 30 feet, and thus have given facilities
+for irrigating the country round the town. It is certain to become a
+great Fruit-growing district, as its soil is so fully adapted for the
+purpose. It is much nearer to San Francisco than Los Angeles, and is
+nearer also than Fresno and other districts which have already made
+themselves a name for Fruit culture.
+
+The country around Merced has a natural fall, and is drained by many
+creeks, which are dry in summer, but contain more or less water in
+winter.
+
+
+THE LANDS FOR SALE.
+
+Merced is situated in the celebrated San Joaquin Valley (pronounced San
+Wharkeen), which is an immense level of fertile land, the soil generally
+being of a rich sandy loam, but in some districts, such as that I am now
+offering for sale, of a deep rich black loam of a highly productive
+nature, in fact, it is the decomposed vegetation and alluvial deposits
+of past ages, than which nothing could be more fertile. We have good
+evidence that the land is especially suited for the production of
+prunes, apricots, pears, peaches, olives, plums, small Fruit, such as
+strawberries, blackberries, sweet and common potatoes, garden stuff, and
+alfalfa. Alfalfa (or lucerne) is a great crop in America in places where
+there are no old meadow lands for the cows. The land is, of course,
+suited for all cereal crops, too. All the Fruits named can be dried in
+the sun without artificial heat.
+
+The lands are about 160 to 165 feet above the level of the sea, and, in
+common with all the country round, they command a view on the one side
+of the grand snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains, and on the other of
+the mountains known as the Coast Range. Immense flocks of wild geese and
+ducks (principally geese), are often on the land. There are also
+"rabbits" on the land (so called), but they more resemble hares in their
+size and habits and run.
+
+There are some excellent Fruit orchards and gardens at Merced. In the
+grounds around the Court House are some very fine orange trees, full of
+fruit, and also in the gardens of private residents. One gentleman
+kindly sent a bough of oranges, and other gentlemen sent other Fruits,
+which may be seen at our offices. At the Buhach Colony, near the town
+of Merced, are extensive orchards of Californian Fruits. Mr. Atwater's
+gardens and orchard, a few miles from the town, are worth inspection. He
+has two magnificent olive trees, nine or ten years' old, which bear
+heavy crops, and which are used for the production of olive oil; his
+vineyard and orange orchard, his lemon and persimmon trees, all look
+very prosperous. He would gladly show any settler how he has cultivated
+them. He has a corn and stock farm, and has only gradually cultivated
+these Fruits, which occupy some eleven acres.
+
+
+PRICE OF THE LAND.
+
+The prices of the land for sale are 75, and 100, and 150 dollars per
+acre, according to position. Two-thirds of the purchase-money may remain
+on mortgage as long as the interest is paid at 8 per cent, per annum,
+which is the lowest interest payable in California. The mortgagor is
+liable to the Government for the taxes, which amount to 1-1/2 to 2 per
+cent, per annum, so that he would really only receive 6 to 6-1/2 per
+cent, interest. All mortgages are publicly recorded, and so the
+property is vested in the mortgagor till he is paid off, and when that
+is done it also is publicly recorded. These taxes embrace all known to
+us in England as rates and taxes, except a road tax of 2 dollars a head
+per annum, chargeable to every male over twenty-one years of age. This
+tax may be paid for in labour on the road if desired. A free conveyance
+will be given, but the cost of recording the transaction in the county
+office (there is no stamp duty), about 1-1/2 dollars, must be paid by
+the purchaser. The recording of a mortgage would probably be 3-1/4
+dollars because it is longer. The record is a public acknowledgment of
+the title of the owner to the land made in the county books.
+
+Foreigners can hold freehold property in California, but they have no
+right to vote--indeed, they would have no right to vote until they had
+resided five years in the country, and had become naturalized; then a
+resident has before him the possibility of becoming Governor of the
+State to which he belongs, or, indeed, Secretary of the Interior, which
+corresponds with the position of the Premier in England.
+
+
+AMERICAN SURVEYS.
+
+According to the American surveys the country is arranged in squares, as
+shown on all the maps. A "section" is a square mile, or 640 acres. A
+"township" is 36 sections, _i.e.,_ six miles on each of its four sides.
+
+A quarter section is 160 acres, and the lands are so arranged that a
+roadway is reserved around each quarter section 60 feet wide, and the
+land for such roadway is taken from each side, so that each owner has to
+contribute 30 feet to such road, and, of course, he has the benefit of
+the frontage to it. A 20 acre lot would be an eighth of a quarter
+section. On some of the lots for sale at "British Colony," are one or
+two houses and some buildings. These may be purchased thus: One house
+and buildings, 1,000 dollars; another house and buildings, 1,000
+dollars; another house and buildings (N.E.), 600 dollars; but if one
+purchaser bought four lots of 20 acres, each adjoining so that one house
+and buildings should come near the centre, then such house and buildings
+would be given in.
+
+
+SPECIAL KNOWLEDGE OF FRUIT CULTURE.
+
+Few settlers would have the requisite special knowledge of Fruit culture
+without some instruction, and, therefore, the owners of the land have
+engaged the services of Professor Eisen, at a fixed salary, so that all
+settlers on their lands may have the benefit of the Professor's
+instruction, _free of charge_. Professor Eisen is well known as a
+specialist in horticulture in California. He has just published a book
+on the raisin industry in California, which may be seen at our offices.
+The culture of grapes for raisins, and plums for prunes, would be
+remarkably successful on the lands for sale.
+
+
+CANNED FRUITS.
+
+Wholesale buyers come round the country to buy the Fruit crops while on
+the trees. An enormous trade is done in America in canned Fruits; the
+hotels, steamers, railway cars, and private families use them largely at
+all meals, and America itself seems to be a sufficient market for ages
+to come for all the Fruit and vegetables its State of California can
+produce.
+
+
+ESTIMATES.
+
+How to start with a capital of 20,000 dols.
+
+ dols.
+ 80 acres of land, 12,000 dols., half cost 6,000
+ Trees, such as orange, olive, fruit, etc. 2,000
+ House and barn 2,500
+ Horses 400
+ Cow 50
+ Poultry 25
+ Furniture, etc. 600
+ Waggon, tools, etc. 400
+ Labour, per year, 3 men, etc., for, 3 years,
+ including living 4,000
+ Interest on 6,000 dols. at 8%--480 dols. per
+ year, 3 years 1,440
+ ------
+ dols. 17,415
+
+Leaving a balance of 2,585 dols. for first payment of land, or for other
+improvements and unforeseen expenses.
+
+Profit the fourth year should be about 4,000 to 5000 dols. at the
+lowest.
+
+
+
+How to start with a capital of 10,000 dols., i.e., say £2,000.
+
+ dols. dols.
+
+ 40 acres of land .. .. .. .. 6,000
+ House and barn .. .. .. .. 1,200
+ Well and pump .. .. .. .. 100
+ Horses .. .. .. .. 200
+ Waggon and tools .. .. .. .. 350
+ Furniture, etc .. .. .. .. 500
+ Cow .. .. .. .. 50
+ Trees, etc. .. .. .. .. 1,200
+ Seed, etc. .. .. .. .. 100
+ .. .. .. .. ---- 9,700
+ Living one year, etc.; incidentals .. 300
+ .. .. .. .. -----
+ dols. 10,000
+
+ PROFITS.
+
+ dols. dols.
+ _First year_.--Land between the trees,
+ cultivated in potatoes, vegetables,
+ etc. .. .. .. .. 500
+ Poultry, eggs, etc. .. .. .. .. 150
+ --- 650
+
+
+(Eggs and poultry pay for groceries. Many families are doing this now.)
+
+ dols. dols.
+
+_Second year_.--The same as above .. 650
+
+_Third year_.--The same as above .. 650
+ Yield from Fruit, 10 dols. per acre .. 400
+ ---- 1,050
+
+_Fourth year_.--The same from poultry, etc. 650
+ From Fruit trees, 50 dols. per acre .. 2,000
+ ---- 2,650
+
+_Fifth year_.--The orchard is now in good
+ bearing, and should pay from 100 to
+ 250 dols. per acre; say the lowest .. 4,000
+
+(No time to attend to any but Fruit trees unless a man is employed, so
+only the return of Fruit trees is given).
+
+_Sixth year_.--The orchard now pays, if properly
+ attended to, from 150 to 350 dols. per acre;
+ say the lowest .. 6,000
+
+_Seventh year_.--The orchard pays, if properly
+ cared for, from 200 to 450 dols. per acre;
+ say the lowest .. 8,000
+
+This clear after expenses have been deducted. The farmer can take care
+of 20 acres himself, with occasional help. With 40 acres he requires one
+man more, his son or hired help.
+
+The first three years he will only make his living ordinarily so; after
+that time he will make money. Poultry, and vegetables should, during
+the first year pay for all expenses at least, and in many instances
+leave a large surplus. All this depends upon the capacity of the
+settler. With good land such as this 100 dollars or more could be made
+from vegetables the first season by a capable and experienced man. At
+least it has been done repeatedly.
+
+If poultry is properly cared for, a family will make its living by
+selling eggs and chickens until the trees come in bearing.
+
+
+=How to start with a capital of 8,000 dols., i.e., say £1,600.=
+
+
+ dols.
+
+ Land, 40 acres, 6,000 dols., half cost.. .. 3,000
+ House and barn .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1,500
+ Horses .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 200
+ Cows and chickens .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 75
+ Waggon and tools .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 200
+ Sundries, tools, etc. .. .. .. .. .. .. 400
+ Trees, etc. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1,200
+ Well and pump .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 100
+ Or windmill and tank .. .. .. .. .. .. 250
+ Interest on 3,000 dols. at 8 % for three years .. 780
+ Sundries for living, etc. .. .. .. .. .. 295
+ -----
+ dols. 8,000
+
+ The fourth and fifth years there should be a gross
+ profit of at least 2,650 dols. a year, enough to pay for
+ the balance due on land.
+
+
+ How to start with, a capital of 5,000 dols.,
+ i.e., say £1,000.
+
+ dols.
+ Land, 20 acres, 3,000 dols., half cost .. .. 1,500
+ House and barn, etc. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1,000
+ Trees .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 600
+ Horses .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 200
+ Cow .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 50
+ Household furniture .. .. .. .. .. .. 100
+ Waggon and tools .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 200
+ Well and pump .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 100
+
+ (If tank and windmill required, from 250 dols.
+ upwards extra).
+
+ Seed, etc. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 50
+ Sundry expenses and chickens .. .. .. .. 300
+ Interest for three years on balance of land
+ at 8% .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 360
+ Capital on hand to pay for part of the land.. 840
+ -----
+ dols. 5,300
+
+
+ What some people have started with, and
+ come out all right.
+
+ dols. dols.
+ Land, 3,000 dols., cash, balance credit 1000
+ House and barn 500
+ Horses 150
+ Cow 50
+ Poultry 25
+ ___
+ 225
+
+ Provisions, sundries, etc 100
+ Furniture and tools 150
+ Sundry expenses 100
+ Waggon and horses 150
+ _____
+ dols. 2,225
+
+But ordinarily, this is too little, as the planting of the land cannot
+be proceeded with at once, and work must be procured among the
+neighbours, etc.
+
+The estimates, were furnished us by Professor Eisen, who remarked that,
+probably, in giving estimates all persons would vary somewhat, but
+these, and other estimates which he gave, are really more than
+estimates, because they are the actual results of past experiences.
+
+
+PROFESSOR EISEN'S OPINION.
+
+Received January 20th, 1891.
+
+
+Professor Eisen writes:--"I am of opinion that these lands (British
+Colony, Merced) are amongst the very best in the State for raisins;
+still, as I explained to you, I do not advise any one to put his whole
+interest in the raisin industry, as the market for this Fruit is
+limited. For other dried fruit, especially for prunes (French plums),
+apricots, peaches, and nectarines, the market is practically unlimited,
+and as our population increases yearly 1,500,000 people, it will be seen
+that our markets must extend as well, even after we have driven all
+foreign Fruits out of our home markets. As regards the adaptability of
+the land of British Colony for various Fruits, I can say that they are
+especially adapted to the prune (French plums) and peaches for drying
+and canning, olives for olive oil and pickling; also for oranges. You
+can see how the orange thrives in the city of Merced and surroundings,
+or in localities exactly like those of British Colony lands, and there
+can be no doubt that oranges and lemons will prove very profitable in
+British Colony. Olives will especially do well there. The British Colony
+lands I consider as exceptionally rich and fertile, and there are few,
+if any, equal to them in this State or anywhere else."
+
+
+PRICE OF FRUIT TREES.
+
+The prices in California of young Fruit trees for planting, for the
+season 1890-91, are given as follows:--
+
+ dols.
+
+ Prunes (like French plums) 25 to 30 per 100
+
+ Plums and other prunes 15 "
+
+ Apricots 20 "
+
+ Peaches, from 15 to 17.50 "
+
+ Olives (layers) 20 "
+
+ Olives, grafted 40 to 60 "
+
+ Pears 18 "
+
+ Oranges, best kinds 70 to 100 "
+
+ Shade trees 50 "
+
+ Grape-vines (raisins) 12 "
+
+ Persimmons 15 "
+
+ Walnuts, from 15 to 35 "
+
+
+
+
+WHEN FRUIT TREES PAY.
+
+The Fruit trees enumerated above would begin to bear the second year,
+but only the fourth year would they bear any considerable amount; the
+fifth and sixth years they would come into good bearing, and should then
+yield a profit of, say, from 100 to 350 dollars per acre. At seven years
+the orchard should be in full bearing, and never yield less than 150,
+and, possibly, 450 dollars per acre. Instances have been known when
+prunes, peaches, and pears have produced from 750 to 1,500 dollars per
+acre clear profit.
+
+
+POSITION OF A SETTLER.
+
+The position of a settler, then, is that for the first three years he
+cannot depend upon his crop of Fruit to maintain him, but must either
+have sufficient capital to support him during that time, or else earn
+his living in some other way. To be idle, and live on capital, would
+not, of course, suit any man who meant to succeed, and therefore he
+would fill up his time in cultivating garden and poultry produce, for
+which there is always a demand, or in getting some occasional
+employment.
+
+
+COST OF BOARD AND LODGING.
+
+At Merced railway station is a very large hotel, and the cost of board
+and lodging for emigrants is only 25 dollars, _i.e.,_ say, £5 per month;
+to usual visitors it is 60 dollars a month.
+
+
+RAISIN CULTURE.
+
+The _Pacific Rural Press_, referring to the raisin vineyards in the San
+Joaquin Valley, California, states:--
+
+"What is especially interesting to the home-seeker in connection with
+this information, is the fact that everyone of these vineyardists is
+prosperous. No other horticultural industry is so profitable as the
+culture of the raisin grape, in no other is the work so pleasant, and no
+other yields a return so quickly."
+
+An acre of Muscat vines in full bearing will yield from two to three
+tons of grapes on good heavy soil. At 5-1/2 cents a pound in the
+sweat-box, this means from 225 to 325 dollars per acre, gross. Numerous
+instances are known, however, where the yield of an acre of Muscats
+amounted to as much as 450 dollars, this being the result of careful
+cultivation and favourable circumstances. Some grapes are borne on the
+vines when they are one-year old, while two-year old's have been known
+to bear a crop. At three years the vines pay the expenses and interest
+on the money invested, and at four years from planting they bring the
+first large paying crop.
+
+The _Merced Argus_ says of raisin culture:--
+
+"One of the great charms of raisin culture is the extreme simplicity of
+its operations. WHAT CAN BE MORE SIMPLE than to pick a bunch of Muscat
+grapes from the vine, and lay it on the ground. In six days the bunch of
+grapes, without being meanwhile touched, has assumed the appearance of a
+bunch of raisins, and has flattened out as if it had been pressed. It is
+then carefully turned over, so as to expose the underside to the direct
+action of the sun. In eight days more it is a perfect bunch of raisins,
+and no act of man can improve it even in appearance. All the operations
+of fancy packing are so simple, that a child may learn them in a day. A
+single acre of raisin vines in a Merced Colony lot means handfuls of
+bright, golden double eagles to the bright-eyed children of the Merced
+farmer in the near future.
+
+_Harper's Magazine_ for January, 1891, contains an article on
+California, which all persons interested in that State would do well to
+read. I extract a few statements:--
+
+
+IRRIGATION.
+
+"A piece of land at Riverside, below the flow of water, was worth 300
+dollars an acre. Contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated, which
+would not sell for 50 dollars an acre. By bringing water to it, it would
+quickly sell for 300 dollars, thus adding 250 dollars to its value. As
+the estimate at River side is that one inch of water will irrigate five
+acres of Fruit land, five times 250 dollars would be 1,250 dollars per
+inch, at which price water for irrigation has actually been sold at
+Riverside.
+
+"The standard of measurement of water in Southern California is the
+miner's inch under four inches pressure, or the amount that will flow
+through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured
+from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the
+opening through which it flows. This is nine gallons a minute, or, as it
+is figured, 1,728 cubic feet or 12,960 gallons in 24 hours, and 1/50 of
+a cubic foot a second. This flow would cover 10 acres about 18 inches
+deep in a year; that is, it would give the land the equivalent of 18
+inches of rain, distributed exactly when and where it was needed, none
+being wasted, and more serviceable than 50 inches of rainfall as it
+generally comes. This, with the natural rainfall, is sufficient for
+citrous Fruits and for corn and alfalfa, in soil not too sandy, and it
+is too much for grapes and all deciduous fruits.
+
+"But irrigation, in order to be successful, must be intelligently
+applied. In unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit. Mr.
+Theodore S. Van Dyke, who may always be quoted with confidence, says
+that the ground should never he flooded; that water must not touch the
+plant or tree, or come near enough to make the soil bake around it; and
+that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days, and not
+in large streams for a few hours.
+
+
+OLIVE CULTURE.
+
+"The growth of the olive is to be, it seems to me, one of the leading
+and most permanent industries of Southern California. It will give us,
+what it is nearly impossible to buy now, pure olive oil, in place of the
+cotton seed and lard mixture in general use. It is a most wholesome and
+palatable article of food. Those whose chief experience of the olive is
+the large, coarse, and not agreeable Spanish variety, used only as an
+appetizer, know little of the value of the best varieties as food,
+nutritious as meat, and always delicious. Good bread and a dish of
+pickled olives make an excellent meal. A mature olive grove in good
+bearing is a fortune. I feel sure that within 25 years this will be one
+of the most profitable industries of California, and that the demand for
+pure oil and edible fruit in the United States will drive out the
+adulterated and inferior present commercial products."
+
+
+SPECIAL OPENINGS.
+
+There are now at Merced special openings for a nurseryman and a
+dairyman; the latter would be by growing alfalfa (lucerne) and raising
+poultry for at present the Merced people often have to get poultry and
+eggs from San Francisco, 150 miles off.
+
+
+POTATO GROWING.
+
+A settler might make a really good return out of potatoes while his
+Fruit trees are maturing, which is a food more in use in America than in
+England. Potatoes are not only served at luncheon and dinner, but also
+at breakfast everywhere, and, if every settler planted his land with
+potatoes, there would be no fear of overstocking the market.
+
+Mr. Eisen states that potatoes yield from 50 to 400 sacks to the acre,
+and sell at prices varying from 90 cents to 2 dollars per sack. If only
+50 sacks were grown to the acre, it would show a scarce year, when
+prices would range higher, but the crop is never a failure in
+California. Two crops can be grown in a year; the first crop is planted
+at the end of February, if warm, or else in March, or indeed any time
+till the middle of May, and dug three months after; the second crop is
+planted in August or September, and dug three months after.
+
+To put in the potatoes a settler would need the help of a labourer, to
+whom he would have to give one dollar per day and his board, or, if the
+labourer be a Chinaman, one dollar and a quarter per day without his
+board. If the potatoes occupied ten acres, and they produced say 200
+sacks to the acre, and fetched 1 dollar per sack, that would yield 2,000
+dollars, or for the two crops 4,000 dollars, or, say, £800. This sounds
+a large sum, but the land is exceedingly rich, as may be seen from the
+samples I have brought back, and large results may be expected from it
+if properly worked, for, of course, in any undertaking the result
+depends upon the way it is worked.
+
+The following paragraph is from an important paper or periodical of 20
+pages, known as the _Pacific Rural Press_, of December 13th, 1890, and
+although the crop it mentions was not grown in California, it shows at
+least what can be done on good ground:--
+
+"Nearly 1,000 bushels of potatoes, or, to be exact, 974 bushels and 48
+pounds, have been grown on one acre of land in Johnson County, Wyoming,
+the past season. This crop wins the first prize of several hundred
+dollars offered by the _American Agriculturist_ for the largest yield of
+potatoes on one exact acre. It was grown on virgin soil without manure
+or fertilizer, but the land was rich in potash, and the copious
+irrigation was of water also rich in saline material. There were 22,800
+hills on one acre, and 1,560 pounds of sets, containing one, two, and
+three eyes, were planted of the early Vermont and Manhattan varieties.
+The profit on the crop on this first prize acre was 714 dollars,
+exclusive of 500 dollars in prizes."
+
+Thus, this one acre would have produced £142 worth of potatoes. I do not
+mention it as an example of what a settler may or may not do at Merced,
+but as the land at Merced which I am offering for sale is of the richest
+quality, rich results may certainly be expected.
+
+ COST OF GOODS, &c., AT MERCED.
+
+ per lb.
+
+ Beef (to boil), 8 to 10 cents
+ Beef (steak), 10 cents
+ Beef (shoulder), 10 cents
+ Beef (choice), 12-1/2 cents
+ Beef (porterhouse and tenderloin), 15 cents
+ Veal, 10 to 15 cents
+ Mutton, 10 to 12-1/2 cents
+ Pork, 10 to 12-1/2 cents
+ Sausages, 12-1/ to 15 cents
+ Corned beef, 8 to 10 cents
+ Bacon, 12-1/2 cents
+ Hams, 15 cents
+ Tongues, 10 cents
+ Flour, 4-1/2 to 5 dollars for a barrel weighing 200 lbs.
+ Tea, 25 cents to 1 dollar
+ Coffee, 24 to 45 cents
+ Candles, 15 to 20 cents
+ Chocolate, 25 cents
+ Cod fish, 10 cents
+ Corn meal, 3 to 4 cents
+ Cocoa, 50 to 60 cents
+ Cracker biscuits, 8 to 10 cents
+ Graham flour, 3 to 5 cents
+ Macaroni, 15 cents
+ Oatmeal, 5 cents
+ Rolled oats, 6 cents
+ Rice, 5-1/2 to 8 cents
+ Salt, 1 to 2 cents
+ Soda, 4 cents
+ Starch, 10 cents
+ Sugar, 7 to 8 cents
+ Sugar (house), 6-1/2 to 7-1/2 cents
+ Butter, 25 to 40 cents
+ Eggs, 15 to 40 cents per dozen, according to season
+ Coal oil, 1.40 per 5-gallon can.
+
+One of my clients recently visited England with his family, and says
+that one can live cheaper at Merced than in England.
+
+The cost of a twelve-roomed house is 3,000 to 4,000 dollars, according
+to finish, _i.e.,_ from £600 to £800. Most of the houses are built of
+wood, and such a house could be built in twenty to thirty days, if
+necessary.
+
+Stabling for two horses, with room for buggy, wagon, harness, and hay,
+would cost 250 dollars or £50.
+
+A ten-roomed house would cost from 2,500 to 3,500 dollars, according to
+finish.
+
+An eight-roomed house would cost from 2,000 to 2,500 dollars.
+
+A six roomed house would cost about 2,000 dollars.
+
+A four-roomed house would cost about 1,200 dollars.
+
+Live poultry cost about 6 dollars per dozen.
+
+Cows, 25 to 50 dollars each. Horses, 75 to 150 dollars each. Sheep, 3 to
+4 dollars each.
+
+Cultivators cost from 7 to 15 dollars each. Ploughs and harrows about
+the same price. A riding cultivator, 45 to 50 dollars. Pruning shears, 3
+dollars.
+
+Day labour costs 1 dollar per day and board; but, in harvest time, 1-1/2
+dollar per day and board.
+
+Carpenters, 2-1/2 dollars per day, sometimes with and sometimes without
+board.
+
+Fencing costs 500 dollars (_i.e_., £100) a mile. To fence a 20-acre lot
+would cost 350 dollars (_i.e_., £70); but if the eight forming the
+quarter section joined together, it would cost each about 130 dollars
+(_i.e_., £26). The fence would be a 6-inch board at bottom, then 30
+inches of wire netting to keep out rabbits, then another 6-inch board
+and a barbed wire at top.
+
+Firewood costs 6 to 7 dollars a cord of hard wood, or 5 to 6 dollars of
+willow wood; a cord of wood is 4-ft. by 4-ft. by 8-ft.
+
+
+TAKE CLOTHING AND BRIC-A-BRAC.
+
+All kinds of clothing are dear. A good suit would cost £7 to £8, or, if
+ready made, £5. Settlers should therefore take with them plenty of
+clothes, sufficient, say, to last for five years, including boots,
+blankets, linen, etc.; also _bric-a-brac,_ and anything to add
+cheerfulness and refinement to the home, but they should not take
+furniture nor animals. Guns they might take, but not tools nor
+implements.
+
+
+SEA PASSAGE FROM ENGLAND.
+
+Steamships run from Liverpool and Southampton at the following rates:--
+
+1.--Cunard Company's Line. Liverpool to New York. During the summer
+months--
+
+ 1st class. 2nd class. 3rd class.
+
+From £12 12s. to £26 5s. £7 £4.
+
+During the winter months--
+
+ 1st class. 2nd class. 3rd class.
+
+ £10 10s. to £25 £7 £4.
+
+The third-class passengers are provided with a free ticket from London
+to Liverpool.
+
+2.--Inman Line. Liverpool to New York--
+
+First class fares from £10 10s. to £25. Second class fares from £6 10s.
+to £7 7s. Third class fares £4.
+
+The third class includes a free ticket from London to Liverpool.
+
+3.--The "White Star" Line. Liverpool to New York
+
+ 1st class. 2nd class. 3rd class.
+ Summer season--£15 to £28 £7 to £9 £4.
+
+Winter season--£10 10s. to £18 £6 10s. to £8 £4.
+
+The third class passengers are provided with a free ticket from London
+to Liverpool, and free tickets, if required, from New York to Boston or
+Philadelphia.
+
+4.--North German Lloyd Company. Southampton to New York--
+ First class, £14 to £23. Second class, £10.
+
+5.--The American Line. Liverpool to New York--
+ Second class, £6. Third class, £3 16s.
+
+Steamers leave Southampton, Liverpool, Glasgow, and Queenstown, thus
+being convenient respectively for passengers from the north or south of
+England, from Scotland, or from Ireland.
+
+Steamers run from this country to New York, Philadelphia, Boston, or
+Baltimore, but New York is the best port for Merced.
+
+
+THE LAND JOURNEY FROM NEW YORK TO MERCED, CALIFORNIA.
+
+_Copy of Letter from the Southern Pacific Railroad Company._
+
+
+"Our fares from New York to Merced, _viâ_ New Orleans, are:--1st class,
+unlimited, £19 19s. 0d.; limited, £18 4s. 7d.; 2nd class, £12 8s. 4d.;
+3rd class, £12 2s. 9d., all rail; £11 1s. 11d. by steamer to New
+Orleans, and thence rail, food, and sleeping berth on steamer included.
+The charges for sleeping car berths are:--1st class, 22 dollars; 2nd
+class from New Orleans, 3 dollars. There are no 2nd class sleepers to
+New Orleans, except on the fortnightly excursion trains from Cincinnati,
+leaving that city January 7th and 21st, February 4th and 18th; March 4th
+and 18th; April 8th and 22nd, etc. The charge from Cincinnati is 4
+dollars 50 cents. Third class passengers can travel in 2nd class
+sleepers upon payment of the usual charge. The fares from New Orleans to
+principal Californian points, including Merced, are:--1st class,
+unlimited, £14. 1s. 3d.; 2nd class, £8. 17s. 1d.; 3rd class, none.
+Sleeping cars--1st class, 13 dollars; 2nd class, 3 dollars.
+
+Tickets may be obtained through Messrs, DOWSETT and Co., 3, Lincoln's
+Inn Fields, London, direct from Liverpool to California, or any other
+State _en route_.
+
+
+ANALYSIS OF MERCED SOILS.
+
+Having fitted up a portion of one of my offices with all the requisites
+for carrying out quantitative analyses of surface soils, I requested
+Professor Lobley, F.G.S., etc., to analyse the four samples of soils
+which I brought with me from Merced.
+
+A general analysis of four samples of soil from Merced, California, has
+given the following results:--
+
+ SAMPLE A.
+
+ Organic matter (Humus) 5.5
+ Soluble inorganic matter 11.75
+ Insoluble silica and silicates 82.75
+ --------
+ 100.00
+
+ SAMPLE B.
+
+ Organic matter (Humus) 4.25
+ Soluble inorganic matter 14.45
+ Insoluble silica and silicates 81.30
+ --------
+ 100.00
+
+ SAMPLE C.
+
+ Organic matter (Humus) 5.25
+ Soluble inorganic matter 16.75
+ Insoluble silica and silicates 78.00
+ --------
+ 100.00
+
+ SAMPLE D.
+
+ Organic matter (Humus) 3.5
+ Soluble inorganic matter 12.0
+ Insoluble silica and silicates 84.5
+ --------
+ 100.00
+
+
+The organic matter is available for plant growth.
+
+The inorganic matter, soluble in dilute hydrochloric acid, is (with the
+exception of the alumina it may contain) composed of fertilising
+material. The substances found in the soluble inorganic matter of soils
+are lime, magnesia, alumina, silica, phosphoric acid, oxide of iron,
+oxide of manganese, potash and soda. The insoluble mineral matter is
+nearly all silica. There is very little clayey matter in any of the
+soils--not more than about five per cent. All the soils are remarkably
+free from stones or pebbles, or even coarse sand.
+
+From the above it will be seen that these soils, while possessing a
+large amount of matter available for plant growth, are exceedingly
+friable, and would be very easily worked. They would absorb heat
+quickly, and from their porosity would require little drainage, and so
+would be both warm and dry soils, and form fertile land suitable for
+almost all kinds of agricultural and horticultural produce.
+
+
+THE POSITION OF MY CLIENTS, THE VENDORS.
+
+My clients, the owners of the land called "British Colony," at Merced,
+are well-known persons--well-known as men of great wealth, and as
+gentlemen of undoubted integrity, the Hon. Charles Crocker and Mr. C.H.
+Huffman, whose enterprises in railway, canal, and other public works,
+have been of gigantic proportions.
+
+I have every confidence myself in dealing with these gentlemen, and I
+submit that my friends, clients, and the general public, who may be
+willing to take up any of this "British Colony" land at Merced, may have
+full confidence, too, that they will at least be treated justly, and
+more than that is not expected from strangers in business; but I believe
+that I might add they would be treated liberally if necessity arose, and
+I have ground for this statement from what I have heard of their
+treatment of other persons who have settled in one of their other
+"Colonies."
+
+
+CALIFORNIA, MERCED.
+
+I have for sale besides the estate designated "British Colony," a tract
+of land belonging to a well-known merchant in the City of London, who
+has owned it for 13 years. It comprises 5,084 acres, and has a
+registered Government title. Price 30 dollars per acre, and 7 years'
+credit would be given if 20 per cent. is paid down. Part of it is well
+suited for Fruit growing, but as yet the water from the canals belonging
+to my other clients has not been taken to it. It has, however, some
+creeks upon it, but they are frequently dry. The land is of a rolling
+prairie character, and is now let at a nominal rent of 25 cents per acre
+for sheep farming. The soil is varied; some of it is a good loam, some
+of a clayey nature, and some stony; there is a shepherd's house, with
+barn and yard. The taxes upon it are about 15 to 20 cents per acre. One
+half of the land would be sold separately, but it must be the half
+farthest from the side where the canals are. The situation is an
+attractive one as the undulations really form the first foothills of the
+Sierra Nevada Mountains, of which there is a grand view. This land is
+well worth buying, as when water is obtained, the price will then be
+increased to that asked for other irrigated Fruit lands.
+
+A plan may be seen at my offices, 3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London.
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+London:
+
+Printed by Vincent Brooks, Day & Son, Gate Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields.
+
+
+
+
+TO OWNERS OF LANDS AND HOUSES.
+
+
+REQUIRED TO PURCHASE.
+
+_Messrs. Dowsett & Co. have applications for Landed Estates, Country
+Houses, Town Houses, Farms, Villa Farms, Building Lands, Cheap Sections
+of Land for the People, Ground Rents, Colonial Lands, and General Land
+and House Investments.
+
+Messrs. Dowsett & Co, invite owners wishing to sell, and who have not
+yet employed an Agent, to employ them: they do not appreciate
+instructions which are sent to several Agents, but they are prepared to
+give careful, intelligent, personal attention to the Sale of Property
+which is placed in their hands. They prefer giving personal attention to
+a few properties rather than having on their books a mass of particulars
+of which they have no personal knowledge, and which are to be found in
+many Agents' lists.
+
+Messrs. Dowsett & Co., personally inspect Properties for Sale, because a
+personal knowledge greatly facilitates success, and for this they make a
+nominal charge of sixpence per mile; they then prepare careful
+particulars so as to introduce the matter advantageously to the public.
+
+Owners of Property may obtain a printed statement of charges for
+Valuing, or for Selling by Auction, or privately, all kinds of Real and
+Personal Estate, Furniture Live and Dead Stock, Stocks-in-Trade, Timber,
+Growing Crops, etc.
+
+Messrs. Dowsett & Co. are prepared to make Geological Reports of Soils
+and Minerals, and give Quantitative Analyses of Soils. They are
+assisted, when special needs require, by experts in Agricultural and
+Architectural Science, and also in every branch of professional and
+commercial enterprise.
+
+Messrs. Dowsett & Co., undertake any branch of these varied services in
+London or any part of England, Scotland, Ireland, the Colonies, America,
+or other Countries, and personally visit other countries on agreed
+terms.
+
+Messrs. Dowsett & Co, Auctioneers, Surveyors, Valuers, Estate Agents,
+etc., 3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London._
+
+
+LANDS AND RESIDENCES FOR SALE.
+
+_Country Houses, Town Houses, Landed Estates, Farms, Building Lands,
+Ground Rents, and Investments generally in Lands and Houses, See "The
+Land Roll," which for one penny may be obtained of Messrs, Dowsett &
+Co., 3, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A start in life, by C. F. Dowsett
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12022 ***