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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:38:36 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:38:36 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/11992-0.txt b/11992-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c846a9c --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3830 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11992 *** + +A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, +DURING THE YEARS +1792, 1793, 1794, AND 1795; + +DESCRIBED IN A SERIES OF LETTERS +FROM AN ENGLISH LADY; +With General And Incidental Remarks +On The French Character And Manners. + +Prepared for the Press +By John Gifford, Esq. +Author of the History of France, Letter to Lord +Lauderdale, Letter to the Hon. T. Erskine, &c. + + + +Second Edition. + +_Plus je vis l'Etranger plus j'aimai ma Patrie._ +--Du Belloy. + + +London: Printed for T. N. Longman, Paternoster Row. 1797. + + + +1792 + + + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. + +The following Letters were submitted to my inspection and judgement by +the Author, of whose principles and abilities I had reason to entertain a +very high opinion. How far my judgement has been exercised to advantage +in enforcing the propriety of introducing them to the public, that public +must decide. To me, I confess, it appeared, that a series of important +facts, tending to throw a strong light on the internal state of France, +during the most important period of the Revolution, could neither prove +uninteresting to the general reader, nor indifferent to the future +historian of that momentous epoch; and I conceived, that the opposite and +judicious reflections of a well-formed and well-cultivated mind, +naturally arising out of events within the immediate scope of its own +observation, could not in the smallest degree diminish the interest +which, in my apprehension, they are calculated to excite. My advice upon +this occasion was farther influenced by another consideration. Having +traced, with minute attention, the progress of the revolution, and the +conduct of its advocates, I had remarked the extreme affiduity employed +(as well by translations of the most violent productions of the Gallic +press, as by original compositions,) to introduce and propagate, in +foreign countries, those pernicious principles which have already sapped +the foundation of social order, destroyed the happiness of millions, and +spread desolation and ruin over the finest country in Europe. I had +particularly observed the incredible efforts exerted in England, and, I +am sorry to say, with too much success, for the base purpose of giving a +false colour to every action of the persons exercising the powers of +government in France; and I had marked, with indignation, the atrocious +attempt to strip vice of its deformity, to dress crime in the garb of +virtue, to decorate slavery with the symbols of freedom, and give to +folly the attributes of wisdom. I had seen, with extreme concern, men, +whom the lenity, mistaken lenity, I must call it, of our government had +rescued from punishment, if not from ruin, busily engaged in this +scandalous traffic, and, availing themselves of their extensive +connections to diffuse, by an infinite variety of channels, the poison of +democracy over their native land. In short, I had seen the British +press, the grand palladium of British liberty, devoted to the cause of +Gallic licentiousness, that mortal enemy of all freedom, and even the +pure stream of British criticism diverted from its natural course, and +polluted by the pestilential vapours of Gallic republicanism. I +therefore deemed it essential, by an exhibition of well-authenticated +facts, to correct, as far as might be, the evil effects of +misrepresentation and error, and to defend the empire of truth, which had +been assailed by a host of foes. + +My opinion of the principles on which the present system of government in +France was founded, and the war to which those principles gave rise, have +been long since submitted to the public. Subsequent events, far from +invalidating, have strongly confirmed it. In all the public declarations +of the Directory, in their domestic polity, in their conduct to foreign +powers, I plainly trace the prevalence of the same principles, the same +contempt for the rights and happiness of the people, the same spirit of +aggression and aggrandizement, the same eagerness to overturn the +existing institutions of neighbouring states, and the same desire to +promote "the universal revolution of Europe," which marked the conduct of +BRISSOT, LE BRUN, DESMOULINS, ROBESPIERRE, and their disciples. Indeed, +what stronger instance need be adduced of the continued prevalence of +these principles, than the promotion to the supreme rank in the state, of +two men who took an active part in the most atrocious proceedings of the +Convention at the close of 1792, and at the commencement of the following +year? + +In all the various constitutions which have been successively adopted +in that devoted country, the welfare of the people has been wholly +disregarded, and while they have been amused with the shadow of liberty, +they have been cruelly despoiled of the substance. Even on the +establishment of the present constitution, the one which bore the nearest +resemblance to a rational system, the freedom of election, which had been +frequently proclaimed as the very corner-stone of liberty, was shamefully +violated by the legislative body, who, in their eagerness to perpetuate +their own power, did not scruple to destroy the principle on which it was +founded. Nor is this the only violation of their own principles. A +French writer has aptly observed, that "En revolution comme en morale, ce +n'est que le premier pas qui coute:" thus the executive, in imitation of +the legislative body, seem disposed to render their power perpetual. For +though it be expressly declared by the 137th article of the 6th title of +their present constitutional code, that the "Directory shall be partially +renewed by the election of a new member every year," no step towards such +election has been taken, although the time prescribed by the law is +elapsed.--In a private letter from Paris now before me, written within +these few days, is the following observation on this very circumstance: +"The constitution has received another blow. The month of Vendemiaire is +past, and our Directors still remain the same. Hence we begin to drop +the appalation of Directory, and substitute that of the Cinqvir, who are +more to be dreaded for their power, and more to be detested for their +crimes, than the Decemvir of ancient Rome." The same letter also +contains a brief abstract of the state of the metropolis of the French +republic, which is wonderfully characteristic of the attention of the +government to the welfare and happiness of its inhabitants! + +"The reign of misery and of crime seems to be perpetuated in this +distracted capital: suicides, pillage, and assassinations, are daily +committed, and are still suffered to pass unnoticed. But what renders +our situation still more deplorable, is the existence of an innumerable +band of spies, who infest all public places, and all private societies. +More than a hundred thousand of these men are registered on the books of +the modern SARTINE; and as the population of Paris, at most, does not +exceed six hundred thousand souls, we are sure to find in six individuals +one spy. This consideration makes me shudder, and, accordingly, all +confidence, and all the sweets of social intercourse, are banished from +among us. People salute each other, look at each other, betray mutual +suspicions, observe a profound silence, and part. This, in few words, is +an exact description of our modern republican parties. It is said, that +poverty has compelled many respectable persons, and even state-creditors, +to enlist under the standard of COCHON, (the Police Minister,) because +such is the honourable conduct of our sovereigns, that they pay their +spies in specie--and their soldiers, and the creditors of the state, in +paper.--Such is the morality, such the justice, such are the republican +virtues, so loudly vaunted by our good and dearest friends, our +pensioners--the Gazetteers of England and Germany!" + +There is not a single abuse, which the modern reformers reprobated so +loudly under the ancient system, that is not magnified, in an infinite +degree, under the present establishment. For one Lettre de Cachet issued +during the mild reign of LOUIS the Sixteenth, a thousand Mandats d'Arret +have been granted by the tyrannical demagogues of the revolution; for one +Bastile which existed under the Monarchy, a thousand Maisons de Detention +have been established by the Republic. In short, crimes of every +denomination, and acts of tyranny and injustice, of every kind, have +multiplied, since the abolition of royalty, in a proportion which sets +all the powers of calculation at defiance. + +It is scarcely possible to notice the present situation of France, +without adverting to the circumstances of the WAR, and to the attempt now +making, through the medium of negotiation, to bring it to a speedy +conclusion. Since the publication of my Letter to a Noble Earl, now +destined to chew the cud of disappointment in the vale of obscurity, I +have been astonished to hear the same assertions advance, by the members +and advocates of that party whose merit is said to consist in the +violence of their opposition to the measures of government, on the origin +of the war, which had experienced the most ample confutation, without the +assistance of any additional reason, and without the smallest attempt to +expose the invalidity of those proofs which, in my conception, amounted +nearly to mathematical demonstration, and which I had dared them, in +terms the most pointed, to invalidate. The question of aggression before +stood on such high ground, that I had not the presumption to suppose it +could derive an accession of strength from any arguments which I could +supply; but I was confident, that the authentic documents which I offered +to the public would remove every intervening object that tended to +obstruct the fight of inattentive observers, and reflect on it such an +additional light as would flash instant conviction on the minds of all. +It seems, I have been deceived; but I must be permitted to suggest, that +men who persist in the renewal of assertions, without a single effort to +controvert the proofs which have been adduced to demonstrate their +fallacy, cannot have for their object the establishment of truth--which +ought, exclusively, to influence the conduct of public characters, +whether writers or orators. + +With regard to the negotiation, I can derive not the smallest hopes of +success from a contemplation of the past conduct, or of the present +principles, of the government of France. When I compare the projects of +aggrandizement openly avowed by the French rulers, previous to the +declaration of war against this country, with the exorbitant pretensions +advanced in the arrogant reply of the Executive Directory to the note +presented by the British Envoy at Basil in the month of February, 1796, +and with the more recent observations contained in their official note of +the 19th of September last, I cannot think it probable that they will +accede to any terms of peace that are compatible with the interest and +safety of the Allies. Their object is not so much the establishment as +the extension of their republic. + +As to the danger to be incurred by a treaty of peace with the republic of +France, though it has been considerably diminished by the events of the +war, it is still unquestionably great. This danger principally arises +from a pertinacious adherence, on the part of the Directory, to those +very principles which were adopted by the original promoters of the +abolition of Monarchy in France. No greater proof of such adherence need +be required than their refusal to repeal those obnoxious decrees (passed +in the months of November and December, 1792,) which created so general +and so just an alarm throughout Europe, and which excited the reprobation +even of that party in England, which was willing to admit the equivocal +interpretation given to them by the Executive Council of the day. I +proved, in the Letter to a Noble Earl before alluded to, from the very +testimony of the members of that Council themselves, as exhibited in +their official instructions to one of their confidential agents, that the +interpretation which they had assigned to those decrees, in their +communications with the British Ministry, was a base interpretation, and +that they really intended to enforce the decrees, to the utmost extent of +their possible operation, and, by a literal construction thereof, to +encourage rebellion in every state, within the reach of their arms or +their principles. Nor have the present government merely forborne to +repeal those destructive laws--they have imitated the conduct of their +predecessors, have actually put them in execution wherever they had the +ability to do so, and have, in all respects, as far as related to those +decrees, adopted the precise spirit and principles of the faction which +declared war against England. Let any man read the instructions of the +Executive Council to PUBLICOLA CHAUSSARD, their Commissary in the +Netherlands, in 1792 and 1793, and an account of the proceedings in the +Low Countries consequent thereon, and then examine the conduct of the +republican General, BOUNAPARTE, in Italy--who must necessarily act from +the instructions of the Executive Directory----and he will be compelled +to acknowledge the justice of my remark, and to admit that the latter +actuated by the same pernicious desire to overturn the settled order of +society, which invariably marked the conduct of the former. + +"It is an acknowledged fact, that every revolution requires a provisional +power to regulate its disorganizing movements, and to direct the +methodical demolition of every part of the ancient social constitution.-- +Such ought to be the revolutionary power. + +"To whom can such power belong, but to the French, in those countries +into which they may carry their arms? Can they with safety suffer it to +be exercised by any other persons? It becomes the French republic, then, +to assume this kind of guardianship over the people whom she awakens to +Liberty!*" + + * _Considerations Generales fur l'Esprit et les Principes du Decret + du 15 Decembre_. + +Such were the Lacedaemonian principles avowed by the French government in +1792, and such is the Lacedaimonian policy* pursued by the French +government in 1796! It cannot then, I conceive, be contended, that a +treaty with a government still professing principles which have been +repeatedly proved to be subversive of all social order, which have been +acknowledged by their parents to have for their object the methodical +demolition of existing constitutions, can be concluded without danger or +risk. That danger, I admit, is greatly diminished, because the power +which was destined to carry into execution those gigantic projects which +constituted its object, has, by the operations of the war, been +considerably curtailed. They well may exist in equal force, but the +ability is no longer the same. + +MACHIAVEL justly observes, that it was the narrow policy of the +Lacedaemonians always to destroy the ancient constitution, and establish +their own form of government, in the counties and cities which they +subdued. + +But though I maintain the existence of danger in a Treaty with the +Republic of France, unless she previously repeal the decrees to which I +have adverted, and abrogate the acts to which they have given birth, I by +no means contend that it exists in such a degree as to justify a +determination, on the part of the British government, to make its removal +the sine qua non of negotiation, or peace. Greatly as I admire the +brilliant endowments of Mr. BURKE, and highly as I respect and esteem him +for the manly and decisive part which he has taken, in opposition to the +destructive anarchy of republican France, and in defence of the +constitutional freedom of Britain; I cannot either agree with him on this +point, or concur with him in the idea that the restoration of the +Monarchy of France was ever the object of the war. That the British +Ministers ardently desired that event, and were earnest in their +endeavours to promote it, is certain; not because it was the object of +the war, but because they considered it as the best means of promoting +the object of the war, which was, and is, the establishment of the safety +and tranquillity of Europe, on a solid and permanent basis. If that +object can be attained, and the republic exist, there is nothing in the +past conduct and professions of the British Ministers, that can interpose +an obstacle to the conclusion of peace. Indeed, in my apprehension, it +would be highly impolitic in any Minister, at the commencement of a war, +to advance any specific object, that attainment of which should be +declared to be the sine qua non of peace. If mortals could arrogate to +themselves the attributes of the Deity, if they could direct the course +of events, and controul the chances of war, such conduct would be +justifiable; but on no other principle, I think, can its defence be +undertaken. It is, I grant, much to be lamented, that the protection +offered to the friends of monarchy in France, by the declaration of the +29th of October, 1793, could not be rendered effectual: as far as the +offer went it was certainly obligatory on the party who made it; but it +was merely conditional--restricted, as all similar offers necessarily +must be, by the ability to fulfil the obligation incurred. + +In paying this tribute to truth, it is not my intention to retract, in +the smallest degree, the opinion I have ever professed, that the +restoration of the ancient monarchy of France would be the best possible +means not only of securing the different states of Europe from the +dangers of republican anarchy, but of promoting the real interests, +welfare, and happiness of the French people themselves. The reasons on +which this opinion is founded I have long since explained; and the +intelligence which I have since received from France, at different times, +has convinced me that a very great proportion of her inhabitants concur +in the sentiment. + +The miseries resulting from the establishment of a republican system of +government have been severely felt, and deeply deplored; and I am fully +persuaded, that the subjects and tributaries of France will cordially +subscribe to the following observation on republican freedom, advanced by +a writer who had deeply studied the genius of republics: _"Di tutte le +fervitu dure, quella e durissima, che ti sottomette ad una republica; +l'una, perche e la piu durabile, e manco si puo sperarne d'ufare: L'altra +perche il fine della republica e enervare ed indebolire, debolire, per +accrescere il corpo suo, tutti gli altri corpi._*" + +JOHN GIFFORD. London, Nov. 12, 1796. + + * _Discorsi di Nicoli Machiavelli,_ Lib. ii. p. 88. + +P.S. Since I wrote the preceding remarks, I have been given to +understand, that by a decree, subsequent to the completion of the +constitutional code, the first partial renewal of the Executive Directory +was deferred till the month of March, 1979; and that, therefore, in this +instance, the present Directory cannot be accused of having violated the +constitution. But the guilt is only to be transferred from the Directory +to the Convention, who passed that decree, as well as some others, in +contradiction to a positive constitutional law.-----Indeed, the Directory +themselves betrayed no greater delicacy with regard to the observance of +the constitution, or M. BARRAS would never have taken his seat among +them; for the constitution expressly says, (and this positive provision +was not even modified by any subsequent mandate of the Convention,) that +no man shall be elected a member of the Directory who has not completed +his fortieth year--whereas it is notorious that Barras had not this +requisite qualification, having been born in the year 1758! + + - - - - - - - - - - - - + +I avail myself of the opportunity afforded me by the publication of a +Second Edition to notice some insinuations which have been thrown out, +tending to question the authenticity of the work. The motives which have +induced the author to withhold from these Letters the sanction of her +name, relate not to herself, but to some friends still remaining in +France, whose safety she justly conceives might be affected by the +disclosure. Acceding to the force and propriety of these motives, yet +aware of the suspicions to which a recital of important facts, by an +anonymous writer, would naturally be exposed, and sensible, also, that a +certain description of critics would gladly avail themselves of any +opportunity for discouraging the circulation of a work which contained +principles hostile to their own; I determined to prefix my name to the +publication. By so doing, I conceived that I stood pledged for its +authenticity; and the matter has certainly been put in a proper light by +an able and respectable critic, who has observed that "Mr. GIFFORD stands +between the writer and the public," and that "his name and character are +the guarantees for the authenticity of the Letters." + +This is precisely the situation in which I meant to place myself-- +precisely the pledge which I meant to give. The Letters are exactly what +they profess to be; the production of a Lady's pen, and written in the +very situations which they describe.--The public can have no grounds for +suspecting my veracity on a point in which I can have no possible +interest in deceiving them; and those who know me will do me the justice +to acknowledge, that I have a mind superior to the arts of deception, and +that I am incapable of sanctioning an imposition, for any purpose, or +from any motives whatever. Thus much I deemed it necessary to say, as +well from a regard for my own character, and from a due attention to the +public, as from a wish to prevent the circulation of the work from being +subjected to the impediments arising from the prevalence of a groundless +suspicion. + +I naturally expected, that some of the preceding remarks would excite the +resentment and draw down the vengeance of those persons to whom they +evidently applied. The contents of every publication are certainly a +fair subject for criticism; and to the fair comments of real critics, +however repugnant to the sentiments I entertain, or the doctrine I seek +to inculcate, I shall ever submit without murmur or reproach. But, when +men, assuming that respectable office, openly violate all the duties +attached to it, and, sinking the critic in the partizan, make a wanton +attack on my veracity, it becomes proper to repel the injurious +imputation; and the same spirit which dictates submission to the candid +award of an impartial judge, prescribes indignation and scorn at the +cowardly attacks of a secret assassin. + +April 14, 1797. + + + + +RESIDENCE IN FRANCE + + + + +DEDICATION + +To The RIGHT HON. EDMUND BURKE. + +SIR, + +It is with extreme diffidence that I offer the following pages to Your +notice; yet as they describe circumstances which more than justify Your +own prophetic reflections, and are submitted to the public eye from no +other motive than a love of truth and my country, I may, perhaps, be +excused for presuming them to be not altogether unworthy of such a +distinction. + +While Your puny opponents, if opponents they may be called, are either +sunk into oblivion, or remembered only as associated with the degrading +cause they attempted to support, every true friend of mankind, +anticipating the judgement of posterity, views with esteem and veneration +the unvarying Moralist, the profound Politician, the indefatigable +Servant of the Public, and the warm Promoter of his country's happiness. + +To this universal testimony of the great and good, permit me, Sir, to +join my humble tribute; being, with the utmost respect, +SIR, + +Your obedient Servant, THE AUTHOR. Sept. 12, 1796. + + + + +PREFACE + +After having, more than once, in the following Letters, expressed +opinions decidedly unfavourable to female authorship, when not justified +by superior talents, I may, by now producing them to the public, subject +myself to the imputation either of vanity or inconsistency; and I +acknowledge that a great share of candour and indulgence must be +possessed by readers who attend to the apologies usually made on such +occasions: yet I may with the strictest truth alledge, that I should +never have ventured to offer any production of mine to the world, had I +not conceived it possible that information and reflections collected and +made on the spot, during a period when France exhibited a state, of which +there is no example in the annals of mankind, might gratify curiosity +without the aid of literary embellishment; and an adherence to truth, I +flattered myself, might, on a subject of this nature, be more acceptable +than brilliancy of thought, or elegance of language. The eruption of a +volcano may be more scientifically described and accounted for by the +philosopher; but the relation of the illiterate peasant who beheld it, +and suffered from its effects, may not be less interesting to the common +hearer. + +Above all, I was actuated by the desire of conveying to my countrymen a +just idea of that revolution which they have been incited to imitate, and +of that government by which it has been proposed to model our own. + +Since these pages were written, the Convention has nominally been +dissolved, and a new constitution and government have succeeded, but no +real change of principle or actors has taken place; and the system, of +which I have endeavoured to trace the progress, must still be considered +as existing, with no other variations than such as have been necessarily +produced by the difference of time and circumstances. The people grew +tired of massacres en masse, and executions en detail: even the national +fickleness operated in favour of humanity; and it was also discovered, +that however a spirit of royalism might be subdued to temporary inaction, +it was not to be eradicated, and that the sufferings of its martyrs only +tended to propagate and confirm it. Hence the scaffolds flow less +frequently with blood, and the barbarous prudence of CAMILLE DESMOULINS' +guillotine economique has been adopted. But exaction and oppression are +still practised in every shape, and justice is not less violated, nor is +property more secure, than when the former was administered by +revolutionary tribunals, and the latter was at the disposition of +revolutionary armies. + +The error of supposing that the various parties which have usurped the +government of France have differed essentially from each other is pretty +general; and it is common enough to hear the revolutionary tyranny +exclusively associated with the person of ROBESPIERRE, and the +thirty-first of May, 1793, considered as the epoch of its introduction. +Yet whoever examines attentively the situation and politics of France, +from the subversion of the Monarchy, will be convinced that all the +principles of this monstrous government were established during the +administration of the Brissotins, and that the factions which succeeded, +from Danton and Robespierre to Sieyes and Barras, have only developed +them, and reduced them to practice. The revolution of the thirty-first +of May, 1793, was not a contest for system but for power--that of July +the twenty-eighth, 1794, (9th Thermidor,) was merely a struggle which of +two parties should sacrifice the other--that of October the fifth, 1795, +(13th Vendemiaire,) a war of the government against the people. But in +all these convulsions, the primitive doctrines of tyranny and injustice +were watched like the sacred fire, and have never for a moment been +suffered to languish. + +It may appear incredible to those who have not personally witnessed this +phoenomenon, that a government detested and despised by an immense +majority of the nation, should have been able not only to resist the +efforts of so many powers combined against it, but even to proceed from +defence to conquest, and to mingle surprize and terror with those +sentiments of contempt and abhorrence which it originally excited. + +That wisdom or talents are not the sources of this success, may be +deduced from the situation of France itself. The armies of the republic +have, indeed, invaded the territories of its enemies, but the desolation +of their own country seems to increase with every triumph--the genius of +the French government appears powerful only in destruction, and inventive +only in oppression--and, while it is endowed with the faculty of +spreading universal ruin, it is incapable of promoting the happiness of +the smallest district under its protection. The unrestrained pillage of +the conquered countries has not saved France from multiplied +bankruptcies, nor her state-creditors from dying through want; and +the French, in the midst of their external prosperity, are often +distinguished from the people whom their armies have been subjugated, +only by a superior degree of wretchedness, and a more irregular +despotism. + +With a power excessive and unlimited, and surpassing what has hitherto +been possessed by any Sovereign, it would be difficult to prove that +these democratic despots have effected any thing either useful or +beneficent. Whatever has the appearance of being so will be found, on +examination, to have for its object some purpose of individual interest +or personal vanity. They manage the armies, they embellish Paris, they +purchase the friendship of some states and the neutrality of others; but +if there be any real patriots in France, how little do they appreciate +these useless triumphs, these pilfered museums, and these fallacious +negotiations, when they behold the population of their country +diminished, its commerce annihilated, its wealth dissipated, its morals +corrupted, and its liberty destroyed-- + + "Thus, on deceitful Aetna's Flow'ry side + Unfading verdure glads the roving eye, + While secret flames with unextinguish'd rage + Insatiate on her wafted entrails prey, + And melt her treach'rous beauties into ruin." + +Those efforts which the partizans of republicanism admire, and which even +well-disposed persons regard as prodigies, are the simple and natural +result of an unprincipled despotism, acting upon, and disposing of, all +the resources of a rich, populous, and enslaved nation. _"Il devient aise +d'etre habile lorsqu'on s'est delivre des scrupules et des loix, de tout +honneur et de toute justice, des droits de ses semblables, et des devoirs +de l'autorite--a ce degre d'independence la plupart des obstacles qui +modifient l'activite humaine disparaissent; l'on parait avoir du talent +lorsqu'on n'a que de l'impudence, et l'abus de la force passe pour +energie._*" + + * "Exertions of ability become easy, when men have released + themselves from the scruples of conscience, the restraints of law, + the ties of honour, the bonds of justice, the claims of their fellow + creatures, and obedience to their superiors:--at this point of + independence, most of the obstacles which modify human activity + disappear; impudence is mistaken for talents; and the abuse of power + passes for energy." + +The operations of all other governments must, in a great measure, be +restrained by the will of the people, and by established laws; with them, +physical and political force are necessarily separate considerations: +they have not only to calculate what can be borne, but what will be +submitted to; and perhaps France is the first country that has been +compelled to an exertion of its whole strength, without regard to any +obstacle, natural, moral, or divine. It is for want of sufficiently +investigating and allowing for this moral and political latitudinarianism +of our enemies, that we are apt to be too precipitate in censuring the +conduct of the war; and, in our estimation of what has been done, we pay +too little regard to the principles by which we have been directed. An +honest man could scarcely imagine the means we have had to oppose, and an +Englishman still less conceive that they would have been submitted to: +for the same reason that the Romans had no law against parricide, till +experience had evinced the possibility of the crime. + +In a war like the present, advantage is not altogether to be appreciated +by military superiority. If, as there is just ground for believing, our +external hostilities have averted an internal revolution, what we have +escaped is of infinitely more importance to us than what we could +acquire. Commerce and conquest, compared to this, are secondary objects; +and the preservation of our liberties and our constitution +is a more solid blessing than the commerce of both the Indies, or the +conquest of nations. + +Should the following pages contribute to impress this salutary truth on +my countrymen, my utmost ambition will be gratified; persuaded, that a +sense of the miseries they have avoided, and of the happiness they enjoy, +will be their best incentive, whether they may have to oppose the arms of +the enemy in a continuance of the war, or their more dangerous +machinations on the restoration of peace. + +I cannot conclude without noticing my obligations to the Gentleman whose +name is prefixed to these volumes; and I think it at the same time +incumbent on me to avow, that, in having assisted the author, he must not +be considered as sanctioning the literary imperfections of the work. +When the subject was first mentioned to him, he did me the justice of +supposing, that I was not likely to have written any thing, the general +tendency of which he might disapprove; and when, on perusing the +manuscript, he found it contain sentiments dissimilar to his own, he was +too liberal to require a sacrifice of them as the condition of his +services.--I confess that previous to my arrival in France in 1792, I +entertained opinions somewhat more favourable to the principle of the +revolution than those which I was led to adopt at a subsequent period. +Accustomed to regard with great justice the British constitution as the +standard of known political excellence, I hardly conceived it possible +that freedom or happiness could exist under any other: and I am not +singular in having suffered this prepossession to invalidate even the +evidence of my senses. I was, therefore, naturally partial to whatever +professed to approach the object of my veneration. I forgot that +governments are not to be founded on imitations or theories, and that +they are perfect only as adapted to the genius, manners, and disposition +of the people who are subject to them. Experience and maturer judgement +have corrected my error, and I am perfectly convinced, that the old +monarchical constitution of France, with very slight meliorations, was +every way better calculated for the national character than a more +popular form of government. + +A critic, though not very severe, will discover many faults of style, +even where the matter may not be exceptionable. Besides my other +deficiencies, the habit of writing is not easily supplied, and, as I +despaired of attaining excellence, and was not solicitous about degrees +of mediocrity, I determined on conveying to the public such information +as I was possessed of, without alteration or ornament. Most of these +Letters were written exactly in the situation they describe, and remain +in their original state; the rest were arranged according as +opportunities were favourable, from notes and diaries kept when "the +times were hot and feverish," and when it would have been dangerous to +attempt more method. I forbear to describe how they were concealed +either in France or at my departure, because I might give rise to the +persecution and oppression of others. But, that I may not attribute to +myself courage which I do not possess, nor create doubts of my veracity, +I must observe, that I seldom ventured to write till I was assured of +some certain means of conveying my papers to a person who could safely +dispose of them. + +As a considerable period has elapsed since my return, it may not be +improper to add, that I took some steps for the publication of these +Letters so early as July, 1795. Certain difficulties, however, arising, +of which I was not aware, I relinquished my design, and should not have +been tempted to resume it, but for the kindness of the Gentleman whose +name appears as the Editor. + +Sept. 12, 1796. + + + + +A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE. + + + + +May 10, 1792. + +I am every day more confirmed in the opinion I communicated to you on my +arrival, that the first ardour of the revolution is abated.--The bridal +days are indeed past, and I think I perceive something like indifference +approaching. Perhaps the French themselves are not sensible of this +change; but I who have been absent two years, and have made as it were a +sudden transition from enthusiasm to coldness, without passing through +the intermediate gradations, am forcibly struck with it. When I was here +in 1790, parties could be scarcely said to exist--the popular triumph was +too complete and too recent for intolerance and persecution, and the +Noblesse and Clergy either submitted in silence, or appeared to rejoice +in their own defeat. In fact, it was the confusion of a decisive +conquest--the victors and the vanquished were mingled together; and the +one had not leisure to exercise cruelty, nor the other to meditate +revenge. Politics had not yet divided society; nor the weakness and +pride of the great, with the malice and insolence of the little, thinned +the public places. The politics of the women went no farther than a few +couplets in praise of liberty, and the patriotism of the men was confined +to an habit de garde nationale, the device of a button, or a nocturnal +revel, which they called mounting guard.--Money was yet plenty, at least +silver, (for the gold had already begun to disappear,) commerce in its +usual train, and, in short, to one who observes no deeper than myself, +every thing seemed gay and flourishing--the people were persuaded they +were happier; and, amidst such an appearance of content, one must have +been a cold politician to have examined too strictly into the future. +But all this, my good brother, is in a great measure subsided; and the +disparity is so evident, that I almost imagine myself one of the seven +sleepers--and, like them too, the coin I offer is become rare, and +regarded more as medals than money. The playful distinctions of +Aristocrate and Democrate are degenerated into the opprobium and +bitterness of Party--political dissensions pervade and chill the common +intercourse of life--the people are become gross and arbitrary, and the +higher classes (from a pride which those who consider the frailty of +human nature will allow for) desert the public amusements, where they +cannot appear but at the risk of being the marked objects of insult.--The +politics of the women are no longer innoxious--their political principles +form the leading trait of their characters; and as you know we are often +apt to supply by zeal what we want in power, the ladies are far from +being the most tolerant partizans on either side.--The national uniform, +which contributed so much to the success of the revolution, and +stimulated the patriotism of the young men, is become general; and the +task of mounting guard, to which it subjects the wearer, is now a serious +and troublesome duty.--To finish my observations, and my contrast, no +Specie whatever is to be seen; and the people, if they still idolize +their new form of government, do it at present with great sobriety--the +Vive la nation! seems now rather the effect of habit than of feeling; and +one seldom hears any thing like the spontaneous and enthusiastic sounds I +formerly remarked. + +I have not yet been here long enough to discover the causes of this +change; perhaps they may lie too deep for such an observer as myself: but +if (as the causes of important effects sometimes do) they lie on the +surface, they will be less liable to escape me, than an observer of more +pretentions. Whatever my remarks are, I will not fail to communicate +them--the employment will at least be agreeable to me, though the result +should not be satisfactory to you; and as I shall never venture on any +reflection, without relating the occurrence that gave rise to it, your +own judgement will enable you to correct the errors of mine. + +I was present yesterday at a funeral service, performed in honour of +General Dillon. This kind of service is common in Catholic countries, +and consists in erecting a cenotaph, ornamented with numerous lights, +flowers, crosses, &c. The church is hung with black, and the mass is +performed the same as if the body were present. On account of General +Dillon's profession, the mass yesterday was a military one. It must +always, I imagine, sound strange to the ears of a Protestant, to hear +nothing but theatrical music on these occasions, and indeed I could never +reconcile myself to it; for if we allow any effect to music at all, the +train of thought which should inspire us with respect for the dead, and +reflections on mortality, is not likely to be produced by the strains in +which Dido bewails Eneas, or in which Armida assails the virtue of +Rinaldo.--I fear, that in general the air of an opera reminds the belle +of the Theatre where she heard it--and, by a natural transition, of the +beau who attended her, and the dress of herself and her neighbours. I +confess, this was nearly my own case yesterday, on hearing an air from +"Sargines;" and had not the funeral oration reminded me, I should have +forgotten the unfortunate event we were celebrating, and which, for some +days before, when undistracted by this pious ceremony, I had dwelt on +with pity and horror.*-- + + * At the first skirmish between the French and Austrians near Lisle, + a general panic seized the former, and they retreated in disorder to + Lisle, crying _"Sauve qui peut, & nous fomnes (sic) trahis."_--"Let + every one shift for himself--we are betrayed." The General, after + in vain endeavouring to rally them, was massacred at his return on + the great square.--My pen faulters, and refuses to describe the + barbarities committed on the lifeless hero. Let it suffice, perhaps + more than suffice, to say, that his mutilated remains were thrown on + a fire, which these savages danced round, with yells expressive of + their execrable festivity. A young Englishman, who was so + unfortunate as to be near the spot, was compelled to join in this + outrage to humanity.--The same day a gentleman, the intimate friend + of our acquaintance, Mad. _____, was walking (unconscious what had + happened) without the gate which leads to Douay, and was met by the + flying ruffians on their return; immediately on seeing him they + shouted, _"Voila encore un Aristocrate!"_ and massacred him on the + spot. + +--Independent of any regret for the fate of Dillon, who is said to have +been a brave and good officer, I am sorry that the first event of this +war should be marked by cruelty and licentiousness.--Military discipline +has been much relaxed since the revolution, and from the length of time +since the French have been engaged in a land war, many of the troops must +be without that kind of courage which is the effect of habit. The +danger, therefore, of suffering them to alledge that they are betrayed, +whenever they do not choose to fight, and to excuse their own cowardice +by ascribing treachery to their leaders, is incalculable.--Above all, +every infraction of the laws in a country just supposing itself become +free, cannot be too severely repressed. The National Assembly have done +all that humanity could suggest--they have ordered the punishment of the +assassins, and have pensioned and adopted the General's children. The +orator expatiated both on the horror of the act and its consequences, as +I should have thought, with some ingenuity, had I not been assured by a +brother orator that the whole was "execrable." But I frequently remark, +that though a Frenchman may suppose the merit of his countrymen to be +collectively superior to that of the whole world, he seldom allows any +individual of them to have so large a portion as himself.--Adieu: I have +already written enough to convince you I have neither acquired the +Gallomania, nor forgotten my friends in England; and I conclude with a +wish _a propos_ to my subject--that they may long enjoy the rational +liberty they possess and so well deserve.--Yours. + + + + +May, 1792. + +You, my dear _____, who live in a land of pounds, shillings, and pence, +can scarcely form an idea of our embarrassments through the want of them. +'Tis true, these are petty evils; but when you consider that they happen +every day, and every hour, and that, if they are not very serious, they +are very frequent, you will rejoice in the splendour of your national +credit, which procures you all the accommodation of paper currency, +without diminishing the circulation of specie. Our only currency here +consists of assignats of 5 livres, 50, 100, 200, and upwards: therefore +in making purchases, you must accommodate your wants to the value of your +assignat, or you must owe the shopkeeper, or the shopkeeper must owe you; +and, in short, as an old woman assured me to-day, "C'est de quoi faire +perdre la tete," and, if it lasted long, it would be the death of her. +Within these few days, however, the municipalities have attempted to +remedy the inconvenience, by creating small paper of five, ten, fifteen, +and twenty sols, which they give in exchange for assignats of five +livres; but the number they are allowed to issue is limited, and the +demand for them so great, that the accommodation is inadequate to the +difficulty of procuring it. On the days on which this paper (which is +called billets de confiance) is issued, the Hotel de Ville is besieged by +a host of women collected from all parts of the district--Peasants, small +shopkeepers, fervant maids, and though last, not least formidable-- +fishwomen. They usually take their stand two or three hours before the +time of delivery, and the interval is employed in discussing the news, +and execrating paper money. But when once the door is opened, a scene +takes place which bids defiance to language, and calls for the pencil of +a Hogarth. Babel was, I dare say, comparatively to this, a place of +retreat and silence. Clamours, revilings, contentions, tearing of hair, +and breaking of heads, generally conclude the business; and, after the +loss of half a day's time, some part of their clothes, and the expence of +a few bruises, the combatants retire with small bills to the value of +five, or perhaps ten livres, as the whole resource to carry on their +little commerce for the ensuing week. I doubt not but the paper may have +had some share in alienating the minds of the people from the revolution. +Whenever I want to purchase any thing, the vender usually answers my +question by another, and with a rueful kind of tone inquires, "En papier, +madame?"--and the bargain concludes with a melancholy reflection on the +hardness of the times. + +The decrees relative to the priests have likewise occasioned much +dissension; and it seems to me impolitic thus to have made religion the +standard of party. The high mass, which is celebrated by a priest who +has taken the oaths, is frequented by a numerous, but, it must be +confessed, an ill-drest and ill-scented congregation; while the low mass, +which is later, and which is allowed the nonjuring clergy, has a gayer +audience, but is much less crouded.--By the way, I believe many who +formerly did not much disturb themselves about religious tenets, have +become rigid Papists since an adherence to the holy see has become a +criterion of political opinion. But if these separatists are bigoted and +obstinate, the conventionalists on their side are ignorant and +intolerant. + +I enquired my way to-day to the Rue de l'Hopital. The woman I spoke to +asked me, in a menacing tone, what I wanted there. I replied, which was +true, that I merely wanted to pass through the street as my nearest way +home; upon which she lowered her voice, and conducted me very civilly.--I +mentioned the circumstance on my return, and found that the nuns of the +hospital had their mass performed by a priest who had not taken the +oaths, and that those who were suspected of going to attend it were +insulted, and sometimes ill treated. A poor woman, some little time ago, +who conceived perhaps that her salvation might depend on exercising her +religion in the way she had been accustomed to, persisted in going, and +was used by the populace with such a mixture of barbarity and indecency, +that her life was despaired of. Yet this is the age and the country of +Philosophers.--Perhaps you will begin to think Swift's sages, who only +amused themselves with endeavouring to propagate sheep without wool, not +so contemptible. I am almost convinced myself, that when a man once +piques himself on being a philosopher, if he does no mischief you ought +to be satisfied with him. + +We passed last Sunday with Mr. de ____'s tenants in the country. Nothing +can equal the avidity of these people for news. We sat down after dinner +under some trees in the village, and Mr. de _____ began reading the +Gazette to the farmers who were about us. In a few minutes every thing +that could hear (for I leave understanding the pedantry of a French +newspaper out of the question) were his auditors. A party at quoits in +one field, and a dancing party in another, quitted their amusements, and +listened with undivided attention. I believe in general the farmers are +the people most contented with the revolution, and indeed they have +reason to be so; for at present they refuse to sell their corn unless for +money, while they pay their rent in assignats; and farms being for the +most part on leases, the objections of the landlord to this kind of +payment are of no avail. Great encouragement is likewise held out to +them to purchase national property, which I am informed they do to an +extent that may for some time be injurious to agriculture; for in their +eagerness to acquire land, the deprive themselves of cultivating it. +They do not, like our crusading ancestors, "sell the pasture to buy the +horse," but the horse to buy the pasture; so that we may expect to see in +many places large farms in the hands of those who are obliged to neglect +them. + +A great change has happened within the last year, with regard to landed +property--so much has been sold, that many farmers have had the +opportunity of becoming proprietors. The rage of emigration, which the +approach of war, pride, timidity, and vanity are daily increasing, has +occasioned many of the Noblesse to sell their estates, which, with those +of the Crown and the Clergy, form a large mass of property, thrown as it +were into general circulation. This may in future be beneficial to the +country, but the present generation will perhaps have to purchase (and +not cheaply) advantages they cannot enjoy. A philanthropist may not +think of this with regret; and yet I know not why one race is preferable +to another, or why an evil should be endured by those who exist now, in +order that those who succeed may be free from it.--I would willingly +plant a million of acorns, that another age might be supplied with oaks; +but I confess, I do not think it quite so pleasant for us to want bread, +in order that our descendants may have a superfluity. + +I am half ashamed of these selfish arguments; but really I have been led +to them through mere apprehension of what I fear the people may have yet +to endure, in consequence of the revolution. + +I have frequently observed how little taste the French have for the +country, and I believe all my companions, except Mr. de _____, who took +(as one always does) an interest in surveying his property, were heartily +ennuyes with our little excursion.--Mad. De _____, on her arrival, took +her post by the farmer's fire-side, and was out of humour the whole day, +inasmuch as our fare was homely, and there was nothing but rustics to see +or be seen by. That a plain dinner should be a serious affair, you may +not wonder; but the last cause of distress, perhaps you will not conclude +quite so natural at her years. All that can be said about it is, that +she is a French woman, who rouges, and wears lilac ribbons, at +seventy-four. I hope, in my zeal to obey you, my reflections will not +be too voluminous.--For the present I will be warned by my conscience, +and add only, that I am, Yours. + + + + +June 10, 1792. + +You observe, with some surprize, that I make no mention of the Jacobins-- +the fact is, that until now I have heard very little about them. Your +English partizans of the revolution have, by publishing their +correspondence with these societies, attributed a consequence to them +infinitely beyond what they have had pretensions to:--a prophet, it is +said, is not honoured in his own country--I am sure a Jacobin is not. +In provincial towns these clubs are generally composed of a few of the +lowest tradesmen, who have so disinterested a patriotism, as to bestow +more attention on the state than on their own shops; and as a man may be +an excellent patriot without the aristocratic talents of reading and +writing, they usually provide a secretary or president, who can supply +these deficiencies--a country attorney, a _Pere de l'oratoire,_ or a +disbanded capuchin, is in most places the candidate for this office. +The clubs often assemble only to read the newspapers; but where they +are sufficiently in force, they make motions for "fetes," censure the +municipalities, and endeavour to influence the elections of the members +who compose them.--That of Paris is supposed to consist of about six +thousand members; but I am told their number and influence are daily +increasing, and that the National Assembly is more subservient to them +than it is willing to acknowledge--yet, I believe, the people at large +are equally adverse to the Jacobins, who are said to entertain the +chimerical project of forming a republic, and to the Aristocrates, who +wish to restore the ancient government. The party in opposition to both +these, who are called the Feuillans,* have the real voice of the people +with them, and knowing this, they employ less art than their opponents, +have no point of union, and perhaps may finally be undermined by +intrigue, or even subdued by violence. + + *They derive this appellation, as the Jacobins do theirs, from the + convent at which they hold their meetings. + +You seem not to comprehend why I include vanity among the causes of +emigration, and yet I assure you it has had no small share in many of +them. The gentry of the provinces, by thus imitating the higher +noblesse, imagine they have formed a kind of a common cause, which may +hereafter tend to equalize the difference of ranks, and associate them +with those they have been accustomed to look up to as their superiors. +It is a kind of ton among the women, particularly to talk of their +emigrated relations, with an accent more expressive of pride than regret, +and which seems to lay claim to distinction rather than pity. + +I must now leave you to contemplate the boasted misfortunes of these +belles, that I may join the card party which forms their alleviation.-- +Adieu. + + + + +June 24, 1792. + +You have doubtless learned from the public papers the late outrage of the +Jacobins, in order to force the King to consent to the formation of an +army at Paris, and to sign the decree for banishing the nonjuring Clergy. +The newspapers will describe to you the procession of the Sans-Culottes, +the indecency of their banners, and the disorders which were the result-- +but it is impossible for either them or me to convey an idea of the +general indignation excited by these atrocities. Every well-meaning +person is grieved for the present, and apprehensive for the future: +and I am not without hope, that this open avowal of the designs of the +Jacobins, will unite the Constitutionalists and Aristocrates, and that +they will join their efforts in defence of the Crown, as the only means +of saving both from being overwhelmed by a faction, who are now become +too daring to be despised. Many of the municipalities and departments +are preparing to address they King, on the fortitude he displayed in this +hour of insult and peril.--I know not why, but the people have been +taught to entertain a mean opinion of his personal courage; and the late +violence will at least have the good effect of undeceiving them. It is +certain, that he behaved on this occasion with the utmost coolness; and +the Garde Nationale, whose hand he placed on his heart, attested that it +had no unusual palpitation. + +That the King should be unwilling to sanction the raising an army under +the immediate auspice of the avowed enemies of himself, and of the +constitution he has sworn to protect, cannot be much wondered at; and +those who know the Catholic religion, and consider that this Prince is +devout, and that he has reason to suspect the fidelity of all who +approach him, will wonder still less that he refuses to banish a class of +men, whose influence is extensive, and whose interest it is to preserve +their attachment to him. + +These events have thrown a gloom over private societies; and public +amusements, as I observed in a former letter, are little frequented; so +that, on the whole, time passes heavily with a people who, generally +speaking, have few resources in themselves. Before the revolution, +France was at this season a scene of much gaiety. Every village had +alternately a sort of Fete, which nearly answers to our Wake--but with +this difference, that it was numerously attended by all ranks, and the +amusement was dancing, instead of wrestling and drinking. Several small +fields, or different parts of a large one, were provided with music, +distinguished by flags, and appropriated to the several classes of +dancers--one for the peasants, another for the bourgeois, and a third for +the higher orders. The young people danced beneath the ardour of a July +sun, while the old looked on and regaled themselves with beer, cyder, and +gingerbread. I was always much pleased with this village festivity: it +gratified my mind more than select and expensive amusements, because it +was general, and within the power of all who chose to partake of it; and +the little distinction of rank which was preserved, far from diminishing +the pleasure of any, added, I am certain, to the freedom of all. By +mixing with those only of her own class, the Paysanne* was spared the +temptation of envying the pink ribbons of the Bourgeoise, who in her turn +was not disturbed by an immediate rivalship with the sash and plumes of +the provincial belle. But this custom is now much on the decline. The +young women avoid occasions where an inebriated soldier may offer himself +as her partner in the dance, and her refusal be attended with insult to +herself, and danger to those who protect her; and as this licence is +nearly as offensive to the decent Bourgeoise as to the female of higher +condition, this sort of fete will most probably be entirely abandoned. + + *The head-dress of the French _Paysanne_ is uniformly a small cap, + without ribbon or ornament of any kind, except in that part of + Normandy which is called the _Pays de Caux,_ where the Paysannes + wear a particular kind of head dress, ornamented with silver. + +The people here all dance much better than those of the same rank in +England; but this national accomplishment is not instinctive: for though +few of the laborious class have been taught to read, there are scarcely +any so poor as not to bestow three livres for a quarter's instruction +from a dancing master; and with this three months' noviciate they become +qualified to dance through the rest of their lives. + +The rage for emigration, and the approach of the Austrians, have +occasioned many restrictions on travelling, especially near the seacoast +of frontiers. No person can pass through a town without a passport from +the municipality he resides in, specifying his age, the place of his +birth, his destination, the height of his person, and the features of his +face. The Marquis de C____ entered the town yesterday, and at the gate +presented his passport as usual; the guard looked at the passport, and in +a high tone demanded his name, whence he came, and where he was going. +M. de C____ referred him to the passport, and suspecting the man could +not read, persisted in refusing to give a verbal account of himself, but +with much civility pressed the perusal of the passport; adding, that if +it was informal, Monsieur might write to the municipality that granted +it. The man, however, did not approve of the jest, and took the Marquis +before the municipality, who sentenced him to a month's imprisonment for +his pleasantry. + +The French are becoming very grave, and a bon-mot will not now, as +formerly, save a man's life.--I do not remember to have seen in any +English print an anecdote on this subject, which at once marks the levity +of the Parisians, and the wit and presence of mind of the Abbe Maury.--At +the beginning of the revolution, when the people were very much incensed +against the Abbe, he was one day, on quitting the Assembly, surrounded by +an enraged mob, who seized on him, and were hurrying him away to +execution, amidst the universal cry of _a la lanterne! a la lanterne!_ +The Abbe, with much coolness and good humour, turned to those nearest him, +_"Eh bien mes amis et quand je serois a la lanterne, en verriez vous plus +clair?"_ Those who held him were disarmed, the bon-mot flew through the +croud, and the Abbe escaped while they were applauding it.--I have +nothing to offer after this trait which is worthy of succeeding it, but +will add that I am always Yours. + + + + +July 24, 1792. + +Our revolution aera has passed tranquilly in the provinces, and with less +turbulence at Paris than was expected. I consign to the Gazette-writers +those long descriptions that describe nothing, and leave the mind as +unsatisfied as the eye. I content myself with observing only, that the +ceremony here was gay, impressive, and animating. I indeed have often +remarked, that the works of nature are better described than those of +art. The scenes of nature, though varied, are uniform; while the +productions of art are subject to the caprices of whim, and the +vicissitudes of taste. A rock, a wood, or a valley, however the scenery +may be diversified, always conveys a perfect and distinct image to the +mind; but a temple, an altar, a palace, or a pavilion, requires a detail, +minute even to tediousness, and which, after all, gives but an imperfect +notion of the object. I have as often read descriptions of the Vatican, +as of the Bay of Naples; yet I recollect little of the former, while the +latter seems almost familiar to me.--Many are strongly impressed with the +scenery of Milton's Paradise, who have but confused ideas of the +splendour of Pandemonium. The descriptions, however, are equally minute, +and the poetry of both is beautiful. + +But to return to this country, which is not absolutely a Paradise, and I +hope will not become a Pandemonium--the ceremony I have been alluding to, +though really interesting, is by no means to be considered as a proof +that the ardour for liberty increases: on the contrary, in proportion as +these fetes become more frequent, the enthusiasm which they excite seems +to diminish. "For ever mark, Lucilius, when Love begins to sicken and +decline, it useth an enforced ceremony." When there were no +foederations, the people were more united. The planting trees of liberty +seems to have damped the spirit of freedom; and since there has been a +decree for wearing the national colours, they are more the marks of +obedience than proofs of affection.--I cannot pretend to decide whether +the leaders of the people find their followers less warm than they were, +and think it necessary to stimulate them by these shows, or whether the +shows themselves, by too frequent repetition, have rendered the people +indifferent about the objects of them.--Perhaps both these suppositions +are true. The French are volatile and material; they are not very +capable of attachment to principles. External objects are requisite for +them, even in a slight degree; and the momentary enthusiasm that is +obtained by affecting their senses subsides with the conclusion of a +favourite air, or the end of a gaudy procession. + +The Jacobin party are daily gaining ground; and since they have forced a +ministry of their own on the King, their triumph has become still more +insolent and decisive.--A storm is said to be hovering over us, which I +think of with dread, and cannot communicate with safety--"Heaven square +the trial of those who are implicated, to their proportioned strength!"-- +Adieu. + + + + +August 4, 1792. + +I must repeat to you, that I have no talent for description; and, having +seldom been able to profit by the descriptions of others, I am modest +enough not willingly to attempt one myself. But, as you observe, the +ceremony of a foederation, though familiar to me, is not so to my English +friends; I therefore obey your commands, though certain of not succeeding +so as to gratify your curiosity in the manner you too partially expect. + +The temple where the ceremony was performed, was erected in an open +space, well chosen both for convenience and effect. In a large circle on +this spot, twelve posts, between fifty and sixty feet high, were placed +at equal distances, except one larger, opening in front by way of +entrance. On each alternate post were fastened ivy, laurel, &c. so as to +form a thick body which entirely hid the support. These greens were then +shorn (in the manner you see in old fashioned gardens) into the form of +Doric columns, of dimensions proportioned to their height. The +intervening posts were covered with white cloth, which was so +artificially folded, as exactly to resemble fluted pillars--from the +bases of which ascended spiral wreaths of flowers. The whole was +connected at top by a bold festoon of foliage, and the capital of each +column was surmounted by a vase of white lilies. In the middle of this +temple was placed an altar, hung round with lilies, and on it was deposed +the book of the constitution. The approach to the altar was by a large +flight of steps, covered with beautiful tapestry. + +All this having been arranged and decorated, (a work of several days,) +the important aera was ushered in by the firing of cannon, ringing of +bells, and an appearance of bustle and hilarity not to be seen on any +other occasion. About ten, the members of the district, the +municipality, and the judges in their habits of ceremony, met at the +great church, and from thence proceeded to the altar of liberty. The +troops of the line, the Garde Nationale of the town, and of all the +surrounding communes, then arrived, with each their respective music and +colours, which (reserving one only of the latter to distinguish them in +the ranks) they planted round the altar. This done, they retired, and +forming a circle round the temple, left a large intermediate space free. +A mass was then celebrated with the most perfect order and decency, and +at the conclusion were read the rights of man and the constitution. The +troops, Garde Nationale, &c. were then addressed by their respective +officers, the oath to be faithful to the nation, the law, and the King, +was administered: every sword was drawn, and every hat waved in the air; +while all the bands of music joined in the favorite strain of ca ira.-- +This was followed by crowning, with the civic wreaths hung round the +altar, a number of people, who during the year had been instrumental in +saving the lives of their fellow-citizens that had been endangered by +drowning or other accidents. This honorary reward was accompanied by a +pecuniary one, and a fraternal embrace from all the constituted bodies. +But this was not the gravest part of the ceremony. The magistrates, +however upright, were not all graceful, and the people, though they +understood the value of the money, did not that of the civic wreaths, or +the embraces; they therefore looked vacant enough during this part of the +business, and grinned most facetiously when they began to examine the +appearance of each other in their oaken crowns, and, I dare say, thought +the whole comical enough.--This is one trait of national pedantry. +Because the Romans awarded a civic wreath for an act of humanity, the +French have adopted the custom; and decorate thus a soldier or a sailor, +who never heard of the Romans in his life, except in extracts from the +New Testament at mass. + +But to return to our fete, of which I have only to add, that the +magistrates departed in the order they observed in coming, and the troops +and Garde Nationale filed off with their hats in the air, and with +universal acclamations, to the sound of ca ira.--Things of this kind are +not susceptible of description. The detail may be uninteresting, while +the general effect may have been impressive. The spirit of the scene I +have been endeavouring to recall seems to have evaporated under my pen; +yet to the spectator it was gay, elegant, and imposing. The day was +fine, a brilliant sun glittered on the banners, and a gentle breeze gave +them motion; while the satisfied countenances of the people added spirit +and animation to the whole. + +I must remark to you, that devots, and determined aristocrates, ever +attend on these occasions. The piety of the one is shocked at a mass by +a priest who has taken the oaths, and the pride of the other is not yet +reconciled to confusion of ranks and popular festivities. I asked a +woman who brings us fruit every day, why she had not come on the +fourteenth as usual. She told me she did not come to the town, _"a cause +de la foederation"--"Vous etes aristocrate donc?"--"Ah, mon Dieu non--ce +n'est pas que je suis aristocrate, ou democrate, mais que je suis +Chretienne._*" + + *"On account of the foederation."--"You are an aristocrate then, I + suppose?"--"Lord, no! It is not because I am an aristocrate, or a + democrate, but because I am a Christian." + +This is an instance, among many others I could produce, that our +legislators have been wrong, in connecting any change of the national +religion with the revolution. I am every day convinced, that this and +the assignats are the great causes of the alienation visible in many who +were once the warmest patriots.--Adieu: do not envy us our fetes and +ceremonies, while you enjoy a constitution which requires no oath to make +you cherish it: and a national liberty, which is felt and valued without +the aid of extrinsic decoration.--Yours. + + + + +August 15. + +The consternation and horror of which I have been partaker, will more +than apologize for my silence. It is impossible for any one, however +unconnected with the country, not to feel an interest in its present +calamities, and to regret them. I have little courage to write even now, +and you must pardon me if my letter should bear marks of the general +depression. All but the faction are grieved and indignant at the King's +deposition; but this grief is without energy, and this indignation +silent. The partizans of the old government, and the friends of the new, +are equally enraged; but they have no union, are suspicious of each +other, and are sinking under the stupor of despair, when they should be +preparing for revenge.--It would not be easy to describe our situation +during the last week. The ineffectual efforts of La Fayette, and the +violences occasioned by them, had prepared us for something still more +serious. On the ninth, we had a letter from one of the representatives +for this department, strongly expressive of his apprehensions for the +morrow, but promising to write if he survived it. The day, on which we +expected news, came, but no post, no papers, no diligence, nor any means +of information. The succeeding night we sat up, expecting letters by the +post: still, however, none arrived; and the courier only passed hastily +through, giving no detail, but that Paris was _a feu et a sang_.* + + * All fire and slaughter. + +At length, after passing two days and nights in this dreadful suspence, +we received certain intelligence which even exceeded our fears.--It is +needless to repeat the horrors that have been perpetrated. The accounts +must, ere now, have reached you. Our representative, as he seemed to +expect, was so ill treated as to be unable to write: he was one of those +who had voted the approval of La Fayette's conduct--all of whom were +either massacred, wounded, or intimidated; and, by this means, a majority +was procured to vote the deposition of the King. The party allow, by +their own accounts, eight thousand persons to have perished on this +occasion; but the number is supposed to be much more considerable. No +papers are published at present except those whose editors, being members +of the Assembly, and either agents or instigators of the massacres, are, +of course, interested in concealing or palliating them.---Mr. De _____ +has just now taken up one of these atrocious journals, and exclaims, with +tears starting from his eyes, _"On a abattu la statue d'Henri quatre!*"_ + + *"They have destroyed the statue of Henry the Fourth." + +The sacking of Rome by the Goths offers no picture equal to the +licentiousness and barbarity committed in a country which calls itself +the most enlightened in Europe.--But, instead of recording these horrors, +I will fill up my paper with the Choeur Bearnais. + + _Choeur Bearnais. + + "Un troubadour Bearnais, + "Le yeux inoudes de larmes, + "A ses montagnards + "Chantoit ce refrein source d'alarmes-- + "Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris! + "Il a tremble pour les jours + "De sa compagne cherie + "Qui n'a troube de secours + "Que dans sa propre energie; + "Elle suit le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris. + + "Quel crime ont ils donc commis + "Pour etre enchaines de meme? + "Du peuple ils sont les amis, + "Le peuple veut il qu'on l'aime, + "Quand il met le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris? + + "Le Dauphin, ce fils cheri, + "Qui seul fait notre esperance, + "De pleurs sera donc nourri; + "Les Berceaux qu'on donne en France + "Aux enfans de notre Henri + "Sont les prisons de Paris. + + "Il a vu couler le sang + "De ce garde fidele, + "Qui vient d'offrir en mourant + "Aux Francais un beau modele; + Mais Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Il n'est si triste appareil + "Qui du respect nous degage, + "Les feux ardens du Soleil + "Savent percer le nuage: + "Le prisonnier de Paris + "Est toujours le fils d'Henri. + + "Francais, trop ingrats Francais + "Rendez le Roi a sa compagne; + "C'est le bien du Bearnais, + "C'est l'enfant de la Montagne: + "Le bonheur qu' avoit Henri + "Nous l'affarons a Louis. + + "Chez vouz l'homme a de ses droits + "Recouvre le noble usage, + "Et vous opprimez vos rois, + "Ah! quel injuste partage! + "Le peuple est libre, et Louis + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Au pied de ce monument + "Ou le bon Henri respire + "Pourquoi l'airain foudroyant? + "Ah l'on veut qu' Henri conspire + "Lui meme contre son fils + "Dans les prisons de Paris."_ + +It was published some time ago in a periodical work, (written with great +spirit and talents,) called "The Acts of the Apostles," and, I believe, +has not yet appeared in England. The situation of the King gives a +peculiar interest to these stanzas, which, merely as a poetical +composition, are very beautiful. I have often attempted to translate +them, but have always found it impossible to preserve the effect and +simplicity of the original. They are set to a little plaintive air, very +happily characteristic of the words. + +Perhaps I shall not write to you again from hence, as we depart for +A_____ on Tuesday next. A change of scene will dissipate a little the +seriousness we have contracted during the late events. If I were +determined to indulge grief or melancholy, I would never remove from the +spot where I had formed the resolution. Man is a proud animal even when +oppressed by misfortune. He seeks for his tranquility in reason and +reflection; whereas, a post-chaise and four, or even a hard-trotting +horse, is worth all the philosophy in the world.--But, if, as I observed +before, a man be determined to resist consolation, he cannot do better +than stay at home, and reason and phosophize. + +Adieu:--the situation of my friends in this country makes me think of +England with pleasure and respect; and I shall conclude with a very +homely couplet, which, after all the fashionable liberality of modern +travellers, contains a great deal of truth: + + "Amongst mankind + "We ne'er shall find + "The worth we left at home." + +Yours, &c. + + + + +August 22, 1792. + +The hour is past, in which, if the King's friends had exerted themselves, +they might have procured a movement in his favour. The people were at +first amazed, then grieved; but the national philosophy already begins to +operate, and they will sink into indifference, till again awakened by +some new calamity. The leaders of the faction do not, however, entirely +depend either on the supineness of their adversaries, or the submission +of the people. Money is distributed amongst the idle and indigent, and +agents are nightly employed in the public houses to comment on +newspapers, written for the purpose to blacken the King and exalt the +patriotism of the party who have dethroned him. Much use has likewise +been made of the advances of the Prussians towards Champagne, and the +usual mummery of ceremony has not been wanting. Robespierre, in a burst +of extemporary energy, previously studied, has declared the country in +danger. The declaration has been echoed by all the departments, and +proclaimed to the people with much solemnity. We were not behind hand in +the ceremonial of the business, though, somehow, the effect was not so +serious and imposing as one could have wished on such an occasion. A +smart flag, with the words "Citizens, the country is in danger," was +prepared; the judges and the municipality were in their costume, the +troops and Garde Nationale under arms, and an orator, surrounded by his +cortege, harangued in the principal parts of the town on the text of the +banner which waved before him. + +All this was very well; but, unfortunately, in order to distinguish the +orator amidst the croud, it was determined he should harangue on +horseback. Now here arose a difficulty which all the ardour of +patriotism was not able to surmount. The French are in general but +indifferent equestrians; and it so happened that, in our municipality, +those who could speak could not ride, and those who could ride could not +speak. At length, however, after much debating, it was determined that +arms should yield to the gown, or rather, the horse to the orator--with +this precaution, that the monture should be properly secured, by an +attendant to hold the bridle. Under this safeguard, the rhetorician +issued forth, and the first part of the speech was performed without +accident; but when, by way of relieving the declaimer, the whole military +band began to flourish ca ira, the horse, even more patriotic than his +rider, curvetted and twisted with so much animation, that however the +spectators might be delighted, the orator was far from participating in +their satisfaction. After all this, the speech was to be finished, and +the silence of the music did not immediately tranquillize the animal. +The orator's eye wandered from the paper that contained his speech, with +wistful glances toward the mane; the fervor of his indignation against +the Austrians was frequently calmed by the involuntary strikings he was +obliged to submit to; and at the very crisis of the emphatic declaration, +he seemed much less occupied by his country's danger than his own. The +people, who were highly amused, I dare say, conceived the whole ceremony +to be a rejoicing, and at every repetition that the country was in +danger, joined with great glee in the chorus of _ca ira_.* + + *The oration consisted of several parts, each ending with a kind of + burden of _"Citoyens, la patri est en danger;"_ and the arrangers of + the ceremony had not selected appropriate music: so that the band, + who had been accustomed to play nothing else on public occasions, + struck up _ca ira_ at every declaration that the country was in + danger! + +Many of the spectators, I believe, had for some time been convinced of +the danger that threatened the country, and did not suppose it much +increased by the events of the war; others were pleased with a show, +without troubling themselves about the occasion of it; and the mass, +except when rouzed to attention by their favourite air, or the +exhibitions of the equestrian orator, looked on with vacant stupidity. +--This tremendous flag is now suspended from a window of the Hotel de +Ville, where it is to remain until the inscription it wears shall no +longer be true; and I heartily wish, the distresses of the country may +not be more durable than the texture on which they are proclaimed. + +Our journey is fixed for to-morrow, and all the morning has been passed +in attendance for our passports.--This affair is not so quickly +dispatched as you may imagine. The French are, indeed, said to be a very +lively people, but we mistake their volubility for vivacity; for in their +public offices, their shops, and in any transaction of business, no +people on earth can be more tedious--they are slow, irregular, and +loquacious; and a retail English Quaker, with all his formalities, would +dispose of half his stock in less time than you can purchase a three sols +stamp from a brisk French Commis. You may therefore conceive, that this +official portraiture of so many females was a work of time, and not very +pleasant to the originals. The delicacy of an Englishman may be shocked +at the idea of examining and registering a lady's features one after +another, like the articles of a bill of lading; but the cold and +systematic gallantry of a Frenchman is not so scrupulous.--The officer, +however, who is employed for this purpose here, is civil, and I suspected +the infinity of my nose, and the acuteness of Mad. de ____'s chin, might +have disconcerted him; but he extricated himself very decently. My nose +is enrolled in the order of aquilines, and the old lady's chin pared off +to a _"menton un peu pointu."_--["A longish chin."] + +The carriages are ordered for seven to-morrow. Recollect, that seven +females, with all their appointments, are to occupy them, and then +calculate the hour I shall begin increasing my distance from England and +my friends. I shall not do it without regret; yet perhaps you will be +less inclined to pity me than the unfortunate wights who are to escort +us. A journey of an hundred miles, with French horses, French carriages, +French harness, and such an unreasonable female charge, is, I confess, in +great humility, not to be ventured on without a most determined +patience.--I shall write to you on our arrival at Arras; and am, till +then, at all times, and in all places, Yours. + + + + +Hesdin. + +We arrived here last night, notwithstanding the difficulties of our first +setting out, in tolerable time; but I have gained so little in point of +repose, that I might as well have continued my journey. We are lodged at +an inn which, though large and the best in the town, is so disgustingly +filthy, that I could not determine to undress myself, and am now up and +scribbling, till my companions shall be ready. Our embarkation will, I +foresee, be a work of time and labour; for my friend, Mad. de ____, +besides the usual attendants on a French woman, a femme de chambre and a +lap-dog, travels with several cages of canary-birds, some pots of curious +exotics, and a favourite cat; all of which must be disposed of so as to +produce no interstine commotions during the journey. Now if you consider +the nature of these fellow-travellers, you will allow it not so easy a +matter as may at first be supposed, especially as their fair mistress +will not allow any of them to be placed in any other carriage than her +own.--A fray happened yesterday between the cat and the dog, during which +the birds were overset, and the plants broken. Poor M. de ____, with a +sort of rueful good nature, separated the combatants, restored order, and +was obliged to purchase peace by charging himself with the care of the +aggressor. + +I should not have dwelt so long on these trifling occurrences, but that +they are characteristic. In England, this passion for animals is chiefly +confined to old maids, but here it is general. Almost every woman, +however numerous her family, has a nursery of birds, an angola, and two +or three lap-dogs, who share her cares with her husband and children. +The dogs have all romantic names, and are enquired after with so much +solicitude when they do not make one in a visit, that it was some time +before I discovered that Nina and Rosine were not the young ladies of the +family. I do not remember to have seen any husband, however master of +his house in other respects, daring enough to displace a favourite +animal, even though it occupied the only vacant fauteuil. + +The entrance into Artois from Picardy, though confounded by the new +division, is sufficiently marked by a higher cultivation, and a more +fertile soil. The whole country we have passed is agreeable, but +uniform; the roads are good, and planted on each side with trees, mostly +elms, except here and there some rows of poplar or apple. The land is +all open, and sown in divisions of corn, carrots, potatoes, tobacco, and +poppies of which last they make a coarse kind of oil for the use of +painters. The country is entirely flat, and the view every where bounded +by woods interspersed with villages, whose little spires peeping through +the trees have a very pleasing effect. + +The people of Artois are said to be highly superstitious, and we have +already passed a number of small chapels and crosses, erected by the road +side, and surrounded by tufts of trees. These are the inventions of a +mistaken piety; yet they are not entirely without their use, and I cannot +help regarding them with more complacence than a rigid Protestant might +think allowable. The weary traveller here finds shelter from a mid-day +sun, and solaces his mind while he reposes his body. The glittering +equipage rolls by--he recalls the painful steps he has past, anticipates +those which yet remain, and perhaps is tempted to repine; but when he +turns his eye on the cross of Him who has promised a recompence to the +sufferers of this world, he checks the sigh of envy, forgets the luxury +which excited it, and pursues his way with resignation. The Protestant +religion proscribes, and the character of the English renders +unnecessary, these sensible objects of devotion; but I have always been +of opinion, that the levity of the French in general would make them +incapable of persevering in a form of worship equally abstracted and +rational. The Spaniards, and even the Italians, might abolish their +crosses and images, and yet preserve their Christianity; but if the +French ceased to be bigots, they would become atheists. + +This is a small fortified town, though not of strength to offer any +resistance to artillery. Its proximity to the frontier, and the dread of +the Austrians, make the inhabitants very patriotic. We were surrounded +by a great croud of people on our arrival, who had some suspicion that we +were emigrating; however, as soon as our passports were examined and +declared legal, they retired very peaceably. + +The approach of the enemy keeps up the spirit of the people, and, +notwithstanding their dissatisfaction at the late events, they have not +yet felt the change of their government sufficiently to desire the +invasion of an Austrian army.--Every village, every cottage, hailed us +with the cry of Vive la nation! The cabaret invites you to drink beer a +la nation, and offers you lodging a la nation--the chandler's shop sells +you snuff and hair powder a la nation--and there are even patriotic +barbers whose signs inform you, that you may be shaved and have your +teeth drawn a la nation! These are acts of patriotism one cannot +reasonably object to; but the frequent and tedious examination of one's +passports by people who can't read, is not quite so inoffensive, and I +sometimes lose my patience. A very vigilant _Garde Nationale_ yesterday, +after spelling my passport over for ten minutes, objected that it was not +a good one. I maintained that it was; and feeling a momentary importance +at the recollection of my country, added, in an assuring tone, _"Et +d'ailleurs je suis Anglaise et par consequent libre d'aller ou bon me +semble._*" The man stared, but admitted my argument, and we passed on. + + *"Besides, I am a native of England, and, consequently, have a right + to go where I please." + +My room door is half open, and gives me a prospect into that of Mad. de +L____, which is on the opposite side of the passage. She has not yet put +on her cap, but her grey hair is profusely powdered; and, with no other +garments than a short under petticoat and a corset, she stands for the +edification of all who pass, putting on her rouge with a stick and a +bundle of cotton tied to the end of it.--All travellers agree in +describing great indelicacy to the French women; yet I have seen no +accounts which exaggerate it, and scarce any that have not been more +favourable than a strict adherence to truth might justify. This +inattractive part of the female national character is not confined to the +lower or middling classes of life; and an English woman is as likely to +be put to the blush in the boudoir of a Marquise, as in the shop of the +Grisette, which serves also for her dressing-room. + +If I am not too idle, or too much amused, you will soon be informed of my +arrival at Arras; but though I should neglect to write, be persuaded I +shall never cease to be, with affection and esteem, Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, August, 1792. + +The appearance of Arras is not busy in proportion to its population, +because its population is not equal to its extent; and as it is a large, +without being a commercial, town, it rather offers a view of the tranquil +enjoyment of wealth, than of the bustle and activity by which it is +procured. The streets are mostly narrow and ill paved, and the shops +look heavy and mean; but the hotels, which chiefly occupy the low town, +are large and numerous. What is called la Petite Place, is really very +large, and small only in comparison with the great one, which, I believe, +is the largest in France. It is, indeed, an immense quadrangle--the +houses are in the Spanish form, and it has an arcade all round it. The +Spaniards, by whom it was built, forgot, probably, that this kind of +shelter would not be so desirable here as in their own climate. The +manufacture of tapestry, which a single line of Shakespeare has +immortalized, and associated with the mirthful image of his fat Knight, +has fallen into decay. The manufacturers of linen and woollen are but +inconsiderable; and one, which existed till lately, of a very durable +porcelain, is totally neglected. The principal article of commerce is +lace, which is made here in great quantities. The people of all ages, +from five years old to seventy, are employed in this delicate fabrick. +In fine weather you will see whole streets lined with females, each with +her cushion on her lap. The people of Arras are uncommonly dirty, and +the lacemakers do not in this matter differ from their fellow-citizens; +yet at the door of a house, which, but for the surrounding ones, you +would suppose the common receptacle of all the filth in the vicinage, is +often seated a female artizan, whose fingers are forming a point of +unblemished whiteness. It is inconceivable how fast the bobbins move +under their hands; and they seem to bestow so little attention on their +work, that it looks more like the amusement of idleness than an effort of +industry. I am no judge of the arguments of philosophers and politicians +for and against the use of luxury in a state; but if it be allowable at +all, much may be said in favour of this pleasing article of it. Children +may be taught to make it at a very early age, and they can work at home +under the inspection of their parents, which is certainly preferable to +crouding them together in manufactories, where their health is injured, +and their morals are corrupted. + +By requiring no more implements than about five shillings will purchase, +a lacemaker is not dependent on the shopkeeper, nor the head of a +manufactory. All who choose to work have it in their own power, and can +dispose of the produce of their labour, without being at the mercy of an +avaricious employer; for though a tolerable good workwoman can gain a +decent livelihood by selling to the shops, yet the profit of the retailer +is so great, that if he rejected a piece of lace, or refused to give a +reasonable price for it, a certain sale would be found with the +individual consumer: and it is a proof of the independence of this +employ, that no one will at present dispose of their work for paper, and +it still continues to be paid for in money. Another argument in favour +of encouraging lace-making is, that it cannot be usurped by men: you may +have men-milliners, men-mantuamakers, and even ladies' valets, but you +cannot well fashion the clumsy and inflexible fingers of man to +lace-making. We import great quantities of lace from this country, yet +I imagine we might, by attention, be enabled to supply other countries, +instead of purchasing abroad ourselves. The art of spinning is daily +improving in England; and if thread sufficiently fine can be +manufactured, there is no reason why we should not equal our neighbours +in the beauty of this article. The hands of English women are more +delicate than those of the French; and our climate is much the same as +that of Brussels, Arras, Lisle, &c. where the finest lace is made. + +The population of Arras is estimated at about twenty-five thousand souls, +though many people tell me it is greater. It has, however, been lately +much thinned by emigration, suppression of convents, and the decline of +trade, occasioned by the absence of so many rich inhabitants.--The +Jacobins are here become very formidable: they have taken possession of a +church for their meetings, and, from being the ridicule, are become the +terror of all moderate people. + +Yesterday was appointed for taking the new oath of liberty and equality. +I did not see the ceremony, as the town was in much confusion, and it was +deemed unsafe to be from home. I understand it was attended only by the +very refuse of the people, and that, as a gallanterie analogue, the +President of the department gave his arm to Madame Duchene, who sells +apples in a cellar, and is Presidente of the Jacobin club. It is, +however, reported to-day, that she is in disgrace with the society for +her condescension; and her parading the town with a man of forty thousand +livres a year is thought to be too great a compliment to the aristocracy +of riches; so that Mons. Le President's political gallantry has availed +him nothing. He has debased and made himself the ridicule of the +Aristocrates and Constitutionalists, without paying his court, as he +intended, to the popular faction. I would always wish it to happen so to +those who offer up incense to the mob. As human beings, as one's fellow +creatures, the poor and uninformed have a claim to our affection and +benevolence, but when they become legislators, they are absurd and +contemptible tyrants.--_A propos_--we were obliged to acknowledge this new +sovereignty by illuminating the house on the occasion; and this was not +ordered by nocturnal vociferation as in England, but by a regular command +from an officer deputed for that purpose. + +I am concerned to see the people accustomed to take a number of +incompatible oaths with indifference: it neither will nor can come to any +good; and I am ready to exclaim with Juliet--"Swear not at all." Or, if +ye must swear, quarrel not with the Pope, that your consciences may at +least be relieved by dispensations and indulgences. + +To-morrow we go to Lisle, notwithstanding the report that it has already +been summoned to surrender. You will scarcely suppose it possible, yet +we find it difficult to learn the certainty of this, at the distance of +only thirty miles: but communication is much less frequent and easy here +than in England. I am not one of those "unfortunate women who delight in +war;" and, perhaps, the sight of this place, so famous for its +fortifications, will not be very amusing to me, nor furnish much matter +of communication for my friends; but I shall write, if it be only to +assure you that I am not made prize of by the Austrians. Yours, &c. + + + + +Lisle, August, 1792. + +You restless islanders, who are continually racking imagination to +perfect the art of moving from one place to another, and who can drop +asleep in a carriage and wake at an hundred mile distance, have no notion +of all the difficulties of a day's journey here. In the first place, all +the horses of private persons have been taken for the use of the army, +and those for hire are constantly employed in going to the camp--hence, +there is a difficulty in procuring horses. Then a French carriage is +never in order, and in France a job is not to be done just when you want +it--so that there is often a difficulty in finding vehicles. Then there +is the difficulty of passports, and the difficulty of gates, if you want +to depart early. Then the difficulties of patching harness on the road, +and, above all, the inflexible _sang froid_ of drivers. All these things +considered, you will not wonder that we came here a day after we +intended, and arrived at night, when we ought to have arrived at noon. +--The carriage wanted a trifling repair, and we could get neither +passports nor horses. The horses were gone to the army--the municipality +to the club--and the blacksmith was employed at the barracks in making a +patriotic harangue to the soldiers.--But we at length surmounted all +these obstacles, and reached this place last night. + +The road between Arras and Lisle is equally rich with that we before +passed, but is much more diversified. The plain of Lens is not such a +scene of fertility, that one forgets it has once been that of war and +carnage. We endeavoured to learn in the town whereabouts the column was +erected that commemmorates that famous battle, [1648.] but no one seemed +to know any thing of the matter. One who, we flattered ourselves, looked +more intelligent than the rest, and whom we supposed might be an +attorney, upon being asked for this spot,--(where, added Mr. de ____, by +way of assisting his memory, _"le Prince de Conde s'est battu si bien,"_) +--replied, _"Pour la bataille je n'en sais rien, mais pour le Prince de +Conde il y a deja quelque tems qu'il est emigre--on le dit a Coblentz."_* +After this we thought it in vain to make any farther enquiry, and +continued our walk about the town. + + *"Where the Prince of Conde fought so gallantly."--"As to the battle + I know nothing about the matter; but for the Prince of Conde he + emigrated some time since--they say he is at Coblentz." + +Mr. P____, who, according to French custom, had not breakfasted, took a +fancy to stop at a baker's shop and buy a roll. The man bestowed so much +more civility on us than our two sols were worth, that I observed, on +quitting the shop, I was sure he must be an Aristocrate. Mr. P____, who +is a warm Constitutionalist, disputed the justice of my inference, and we +agreed to return, and learn the baker's political principles. After +asking for more rolls, we accosted him with the usual phrase, "Et vous, +Monsieur, vous etes bon patriote?"--_"Ah, mon Dieu, oui,_ (replied he,) +_il faut bien l'etre a present."_* + + *"And you, Sir, are without doubt, a good patriot?"--"Oh Lord, Sir, + yes; one's obliged to be so, now-a-days." + +Mr. P____ admitted the man's tone of voice and countenance as good +evidence, and acknowledged I was right.--It is certain that the French +have taken it into their heads, that coarseness of manners is a necessary +consequence of liberty, and that there is a kind of leze nation in being +too civil; so that, in general, I think I can discover the principles of +shopkeepers, even without the indications of a melancholy mien at the +assignats, or lamentations on the times. + +The new doctrine of primeval equality has already made some progress. At +a small inn at Carvin, where, upon the assurance that they had every +thing in the world, we stopped to dine, on my observing they had laid +more covers than were necessary, the woman answered, "Et les domestiques, +ne dinent ils pas?"--"And, pray, are the servants to have no dinner?" + +We told her not with us, and the plates were taken away; but we heard her +muttering in the kitchen, that she believed we were aristocrates going to +emigrate. She might imagine also that we were difficult to satisfy, for +we found it impossible to dine, and left the house hungry, +notwithstanding there was "every thing in the world" in it. + +On the road between Carvin and Lisle we saw Dumouriez, who is going to +take the command of the army, and has now been visiting the camp of +Maulde. He appears to be under the middle size, about fifty years of +age, with a brown complexion, dark eyes, and an animated countenance. He +was not originally distinguished either by birth or fortune, and has +arrived at his present situation by a concurrence of fortuitous +circumstances, by great and various talents, much address, and a spirit +of intrigue. He is now supported by the prevailing party; and, I +confess, I could not regard with much complacence a man, whom the +machinations of the Jacobins had forced into the ministry, and whose +hypocritical and affected resignation has contributed to deceive the +people, and ruin the King. + +Lisle has all the air of a great town, and the mixture of commercial +industry and military occupation gives it a very gay and populous +appearance. The Lillois are highly patriotic, highly incensed against +the Austrians, and regard the approaching siege with more contempt than +apprehension. I asked the servant who was making my bed this morning, +how far the enemy was off. _"Une lieue et demie, ou deux lieues, a moins +qu'ils ne soient plus avances depuis hier,"_* repled she, with the utmost +indifference.--I own, I did not much approve of such a vicinage, and a +view of the fortifications (which did not make the less impression, +because I did not understand them,) was absolutely necessary to raise my +drooping courage. + + *"A league and a half, or two leagues; unless, indeed, they have + advanced since yesterday." + +This morning was dedicated to visiting the churches, citadel, and +Collisee (a place of amusement in the manner of our Vauxhall); but all +these things have been so often described by much abler pens, that I +cannot modestly pretend to add any thing on the subject. + +In the evening we were at the theatre, which is large and handsome; and +the constant residence of a numerous garrison enables it to entertain a +very good set of performers:--their operas in particular are extremely +well got up. I saw Zemire et Azor given better than at Drury Lane.--In +the farce, which was called Le Francois a Londres, was introduced a +character they called that of an Englishman, (Jack Roastbeef,) who pays +his addresses to a nobleman's daughter, in a box coate, a large hat +slouched over his eyes, and an oaken trowel in his hand--in short, the +whole figure exactly resembling that of a watchman. His conversation is +gross and sarcastic, interlarded with oaths, or relieved by fits of +sullen taciturnity--such a lover as one may suppose, though rich, and the +choice of the lady's father, makes no impression; and the author has +flattered the national vanity by making the heroine give the preference +to a French marquis. Now there is no doubt but nine-tenths of the +audience thought this a good portraiture of the English character, and +enjoyed it with all the satisfaction of conscious superiority.--The +ignorance that prevails with regard to our manners and customs, among a +people so near us, is surprizing. It is true, that the noblesse who have +visited England with proper recommendations, and have been introduced to +the best society, do us justice: the men of letters also, who, from party +motives, extol every thing English, have done us perhaps more than +justice. But I speak of the French in general; not the lower classes +only, but the gentry of the provinces, and even those who in other +respects have pretensions to information. The fact is, living in England +is expensive: a Frenchman, whose income here supports him as a gentleman, +goes over and finds all his habits of oeconomy insufficient to keep him +from exceeding the limits he had prescribed to himself. His decent +lodging alone costs him a great part of his revenue, and obliges him to +be strictly parsimonious of the rest. This drives him to associate +chiefly with his own countrymen, to dine at obscure coffee-houses, and +pay his court to opera-dancers. He sees, indeed, our theatres, our +public walks, the outside of our palaces, and the inside of churches: but +this gives him no idea of the manners of the people in superior life, or +even of easy fortune. Thus he goes home, and asserts to his untravelled +countrymen, that our King and nobility are ill lodged, our churches mean, +and that the English are barbarians, who dine without soup, use no +napkin, and eat with their knives.--I have heard a gentleman of some +respectability here observe, that our usual dinner was an immense joint +of meat half drest, and a dish of vegetables scarcely drest at all.--Upon +questioning him, I discovered he had lodged in St. Martin's Lane, had +likewise boarded at a country attorney's of the lowest class, and dined +at an ordinary at Margate. + +Some few weeks ago the Marquis de P____ set out from Paris in the +diligence, and accompanied by his servant, with a design of emigrating. +Their only fellow-traveller was an Englishman, whom they frequently +addressed, and endeavoured to enter into conversation with; but he either +remained silent, or gave them to understand he was entirely ignorant of +the language. Under this persuasion the Marquis and his valet freely +discussed their affairs, arranged their plan of emigration, and +expressed, with little ceremony, their political opinions.--At the end of +their journey they were denounced by their companion, and conducted to +prison. The magistrate who took the information mentioned the +circumstance when I happened to be present. Indignant at such an act in +an Englishman, I enquired his name. You will judge of my surprize, when +he assured me it was the English Ambassador. I observed to him, that it +was not common for our Ambassadors to travel in stage-coaches: this, he +said, he knew; but that having reason to suspect the Marquis, Monsieur +l'Ambassadeur had had the goodness to have him watched, and had taken +this journey on purpose to detect him. It was not without much +reasoning, and the evidence of a lady who had been in England long enough +to know the impossibility of such a thing, that I would justify Lord +G____ from this piece of complaisance to the Jacobins, and convince the +worthy magistrate he had been imposed upon: yet this man is the Professor +of Eloquence at a college, is the oracle of the Jacobin society; and may +perhaps become a member of the Convention. This seems so almost +incredibly absurd, that I should fear to repeat it, were it not known to +many besides myself; but I think I may venture to pronounce, from my own +observation, and that of others, whose judgement, and occasions of +exercising it, give weight to their opinions, that the generality of the +French who have read a little are mere pedants, nearly unacquainted with +modern nations, their commercial and political relation, their internal +laws, characters, or manners. Their studies are chiefly confined to +Rollin and Plutarch, the deistical works of Voltaire, and the visionary +politics of Jean Jaques. Hence they amuse their hearers with allusions +to Caesar and Lycurgus, the Rubicon, and Thermopylae. Hence they pretend +to be too enlightened for belief, and despise all governments not founded +on the Contrat Social, or the Profession de Foi.--They are an age removed +from the useful literature and general information of the middle classes +in their own country--they talk familiarly of Sparta and Lacedemon, and +have about the same idea of Russia as they have of Caffraria. Yours. + + + + +Lisle. + +"Married to another, and that before those shoes were old with which she +followed my poor father to the grave."--There is scarcely any +circumstance, or situation, in which, if one's memory were good, one +should not be mentally quoting Shakespeare. I have just now been +whispering the above, as I passed the altar of liberty, which still +remains on the Grande Place. But "a month, a little month," ago, on this +altar the French swore to maintain the constitution, and to be faithful +to the law and the King; yet this constitution is no more, the laws are +violated, the King is dethroned, and the altar is now only a monument of +levity and perjury, which they have not feeling enough to remove. + +The Austrians are daily expected to besiege this place, and they may +destroy, but they will not take it. I do not, as you may suppose, +venture to speak so decisively in a military point of view--I know as +little as possible of the excellencies of Vauban, or the adequacy of the +garrison; but I draw my inference from the spirit of enthusiasm which +prevails among the inhabitants of every class--every individual seems to +partake of it: the streets resound with patriotic acclamations, patriotic +songs, war, and defiance.--Nothing can be more animating than the +theatre. Every allusion to the Austrians, every song or sentence, +expressive of determined resistance, is followed by bursts of assent, +easily distinguishable not to be the effort of party, but the sentiment +of the people in general. There are, doubtless, here, as in all other +places, party dissensions; but the threatened siege seems at least to +have united all for their common defence: they know that a bomb makes no +distinction between Feuillans, Jacobins, or Aristocrates, and neither are +so anxious to destroy the other, when it is only to be done at such a +risk to themselves. I am even willing to hope that something better than +mere selfishness has a share in their uniting to preserve one of the +finest, and, in every sense, one of the most interesting, towns in +France. + + + + +Lisle, Saturday. + +We are just on our departure for Arras, where, I fear, we shall scarcely +arrive before the gates are shut. We have been detained here much beyond +our time, by a circumstance infinitely shocking, though, in fact, not +properly a subject of regret. One of the assassins of General Dillon was +this morning guillotined before the hotel where we are lodged.--I did +not, as you will conclude, see the operation; but the mere circumstance +of knowing the moment it was performed, and being so near it, has much +unhinged me. The man, however, deserved his fate, and such an example +was particularly necessary at this time, when we are without a +government, and the laws are relaxed. The mere privation of life is, +perhaps, more quickly effected by this instrument than by any other +means; but when we recollect that the preparation for, and apprehension +of, death, constitute its greatest terrors; that a human hand must give +motion to the Guillotine as well as to the axe; and that either accustoms +a people, already sanguinary, to the sight of blood, I think little is +gained by the invention. It was imagined by a Mons. Guillotin, a +physician of Paris, and member of the Constituent Assembly. The original +design seems not so much to spare pain to the criminal, as obloquy to the +executioner. I, however, perceive little difference between a man's +directing a Guillotine, or tying a rope; and I believe the people are of +the same opinion. They will never see any thing but a _bourreau_ +[executioner] in the man whose province it is to execute the sentence of +the laws, whatever name he may be called by, or whatever instrument he +may make use of.--I have concluded this letter with a very unpleasant +subject, but my pen is guided by circumstances, and I do not invent, but +communicate.--Adieu. Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September 1, 1792. + +Had I been accompanied by an antiquary this morning, his sensibility +would have been severely exercised; for even I, whose respect for +antiquity is not scientific, could not help lamenting the modern rage for +devastation which has seized the French. They are removing all "the +time-honoured figures" of the cathedral, and painting its massive +supporters in the style of a ball-room. The elaborate uncouthness of +ancient sculpture is not, indeed, very beautiful; yet I have often +fancied there was something more simply pathetic in the aukward effigy of +an hero kneeling amidst his trophies, or a regal pair with their +supplicating hands and surrounding offspring, than in the graceful +figures and poetic allegories of the modern artist. The humble intreaty +to the reader to "praye for the soule of the departed," is not very +elegant--yet it is better calculated to recall the wanderings of +morality, than the flattering epitaph, a Fame hovering in the air, or the +suspended wreath of the remunerating angel.--But I moralize in vain--the +rage of these new Goths is inexorable: they seem solicitous to destroy +every vestige of civilization, lest the people should remember they have +not always been barbarians. + +After obtaining an order from the municipality, we went to see the +gardens and palace of the Bishop, who has emigrated. The garden has +nothing very remarkable, but is large and well laid out, according to the +old style. It forms a very agreeable walk, and, when the Bishop possest +it, was open for the enjoyment of the inhabitants, but it is now shut up +and in disorder. The house is plain, and substantially furnished, and +exhibits no appearance of unbecoming luxury. The whole is now the +property of the nation, and will soon be disposed of.--I could not help +feeling a sensation of melancholy as we walked over the apartments. +Every thing is marked in an inventory, just as left; and an air of +arrangement and residence leads one to reflect, that the owner did not +imagine at his departure he was quitting it perhaps for ever. I am not +partial to the original emigrants, yet much may be said for the Bishop of +Arras. He was pursued by ingratitude, and marked for persecution. The +Robespierres were young men whom he had taken from a mean state, had +educated, and patronized. The revolution gave them an opportunity of +displaying their talents, and their talents procured them popularity. +They became enemies to the clergy, because their patron was a Bishop; and +endeavoured to render their benefactor odious, because the world could +not forget, nor they forgive, how much they were indebted to him.--Vice +is not often passive; nor is there often a medium between gratitude for +benefits, and hatred to the author of them. A little mind is hurt by the +remembrance of obligation--begins by forgetting, and, not uncommonly, +ends by persecuting. + +We dined and passed the afternoon from home to-day. After dinner our +hostess, as usual, proposed cards; and, as usual in French societies, +every one assented: we waited, however, some time, and no cards came-- +till, at length, conversation-parties were formed, and they were no +longer thought of. I have since learned, from one of the young women of +the house, that the butler and two footmen had all betaken themselves to +clubs and Guinguettes,* and the cards, counters, &c. could not be +obtained. + + * Small public houses in the vicinity of large towns, where the + common people go on Sundays and festivals to dance and make merry. + +This is another evil arising from the circumstances of the times. All +people of property have begun to bury their money and plate, and as the +servants are often unavoidably privy to it, they are become idle and +impertinent--they make a kind of commutation of diligence for fidelity, +and imagine that the observance of the one exempts them from the +necessity of the other. The clubs are a constant receptacle for +idleness; and servants who think proper to frequent them do it with very +little ceremony, knowing that few whom they serve would be imprudent +enough to discharge them for their patriotism in attending a Jacobin +society. Even servants who are not converts to the new principle cannot +resist the temptation of abusing a little the power which they acquire +from a knowledge of family affairs. Perhaps the effect of the revolution +has not, on the whole, been favourable to the morals of the lower class +of people; but this shall be the subject of discussion at some future +period, when I shall have had farther opportunities of judging. + +We yesterday visited the Oratoire, a seminary for education, which is now +suppressed. The building is immense, and admirably calculated for the +purpose, but is already in a state of dilapidation; so that, I fear, by +the time the legislature has determined what system of instruction shall +be substituted for that which has been abolished, the children (as the +French are fond of examples from the ancients) will take their lessons, +like the Greeks, in the open air; and, in the mean while, become expert +in lying and thieving, like the Spartans. + +The Superior of the house is an immoderate revolutionist, speaks English +very well, and is a great admirer of our party writers. In his room I +observed a vast quantity of English books, and on his chimney stood what +he called a patriotic clock, the dial of which was placed between two +pyramids, on which were inscribed the names of republican authors, and on +the top of one was that of our countryman, Mr. Thomas Paine--whom, by the +way, I understand you intended to exhibit in a much more conspicuous and +less tranquil situation. I assure you, though you are ungrateful on your +side of the water, he is in high repute here--his works are translated-- +all the Jacobins who can read quote, and all who can't, admire him; and +possibly, at the very moment you are sentencing him to an installment in +the pillory, we may be awarding him a triumph.--Perhaps we are both +right. He deserves the pillory, from you for having endeavoured to +destroy a good constitution--and the French may with equal reason grant +him a triumph, as their constitution is likely to be so bad, that even +Mr. Thomas Paine's writings may make it better! + +Our house is situated within view of a very pleasant public walk, where I +am daily amused with a sight of the recruits at their exercise. This is +not quite so regular a business as the drill in the Park. The exercise +is often interrupted by disputes between the officer and his eleves--some +are for turning to the right, others to the left, and the matter is not +unfrequently adjusted by each going the way that seemeth best unto +himself. The author of the _"Actes des Apotres"_ [The Acts of the +Apostles] cites a Colonel who reprimanded one of his corps for walking +ill--_"Eh Dicentre,_ (replied the man,) _comment veux tu que je marche +bien quand tu as fait mes souliers trop etroits."_* but this is no longer +a pleasantry--such circumstances are very common. A Colonel may often be +tailor to his own regiment, and a Captain operated on the heads of his +whole company, in his civil capacity, before he commands them in his +military one. + + *"And how the deuce can you expect me to march well, when you have + made my shoes too tight?" + +The walks I have just mentioned have been extremely beautiful, but a +great part of the trees have been cut down, and the ornamental parts +destroyed, since the revolution--I know not why, as they were open to the +poor as well as the rich, and were a great embellishment to the low town. +You may think it strange that I should be continually dating some +destruction from the aera of the revolution--that I speak of every thing +demolished, and of nothing replaced. But it is not my fault--"If freedom +grows destructive, I must paint it:" though I should tell you, that in +many streets where convents have been sold, houses are building with the +materials on the same site.--This is, however, not a work of the nation, +but of individuals, who have made their purchases cheap, and are +hastening to change the form of their property, lest some new revolution +should deprive them of it.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September. + +Nothing more powerfully excites the attention of a stranger on his first +arrival, than the number and wretchedness of the poor at Arras. In all +places poverty claims compulsion, but here compassion is accompanied by +horror--one dares not contemplate the object one commiserates, and +charity relieves with an averted eye. Perhaps with Him, who regards +equally the forlorn beggar stretched on the threshold, consumed by filth +and disease, and the blooming beauty who avoids while she succours him, +the offering of humanity scarcely expiates the involuntary disgust; yet +such is the weakness of our nature, that there exists a degree of misery +against which one's senses are not proof, and benevolence itself revolts +at the appearance of the poor of Arras.--These are not the cold and +fastidious reflections of an unfeeling mind--they are not made without +pain: nor have I often felt the want of riches and consequence so much as +in my incapacity to promote some means of permanent and substantial +remedy for the evils I have been describing. I have frequently enquired +the cause of this singular misery, but can only learn that it always has +been so. I fear it is, that the poor are without energy, and the rich +without generosity. The decay of manufactures since the last century +must have reduced many families to indigence. These have been able to +subsist on the refuse of luxury, but, too supine for exertion, they have +sought for nothing more; while the great, discharging their consciences +with the superfluity of what administered to their pride, fostered the +evil, instead of endeavouring to remedy it. But the benevolence of the +French is not often active, nor extensive; it is more frequently a +religious duty than a sentiment. They content themselves with affording +a mere existence to wretchedness; and are almost strangers to those +enlightened and generous efforts which act beyond the moment, and seek +not only to relieve poverty, but to banish it. Thus, through the frigid +and indolent charity of the rich, the misery which was at first +accidental is perpetuated, beggary and idleness become habitual, and are +transmitted, like more fortunate inheritances, from one generation to +another.--This is not a mere conjecture--I have listened to the histories +of many of these unhappy outcasts, who were more than thirty years old, +and they have all told me, they were born in the state in which I beheld +them, and that they did not remember to have heard that their parents +were in any other. The National Assembly profess to effectuate an entire +regeneration of the country, and to eradicate all evils, moral, physical, +and political. I heartily wish the numerous and miserable poor, with +which Arras abounds, may become one of the first objects of reform; and +that a nation which boasts itself the most polished, the most powerful, +and the most philosophic in the world, may not offer to the view so many +objects shocking to humanity. + +The citadel of Arras is very strong, and, as I am told, the chef d'oeuvre +of Vauban; but placed with so little judgement, that the military call it +_la belle inutile_ [the useless beauty]. It is now uninhabited, and +wears an appearance of desolation--the commandant and all the officers of +the ancient government having been forced to abandon it; their houses +also are much damaged, and the gardens entirely destroyed.--I never heard +that this popular commotion had any other motive than the general war of +the new doctrines on the old. + +I am sorry to see that most of the volunteers who go to join the army are +either old men or boys, tempted by extraordinary pay and scarcity of +employ. A cobler who has been used to rear canary-birds for Mad. de +____, brought us this morning all the birds he was possessed of, and told +us he was going to-morrow to the frontiers. We asked him why, at his +age, he should think of joining the army. He said, he had already +served, and that there were a few months unexpired of the time that would +entitle him to his pension.--"Yes; but in the mean while you may get +killed; and then of what service will your claim to a pension be?"-- +_"N'ayez pas peur, Madame--Je me menagerai bien--on ne se bat pas pour ces +gueux la comme pour son Roi."_* + + * "No fear of that, Madam--I'll take good care of myself: a man does + not fight for such beggarly rascals as these as he would for his + King." + +M. de ____ is just returned from the camp of Maulde, where he has been to +see his son. He says, there is great disorder and want of discipline, +and that by some means or other the common soldiers abound more in money, +and game higher, than their officers. There are two young women, +inhabitants of the town of St. Amand, who go constantly out on all +skirmishing parties, exercise daily with the men, and have killed several +of the enemy. They are both pretty--one only sixteen, the other a year +or two older. Mr. de ____ saw them as they were just returning from a +reconnoitring party. Perhaps I ought to have been ashamed after this +recital to decline an invitation from Mr. de R___'s son to dine with him +at the camp; but I cannot but feel that I am an extreme coward, and that +I should eat with no appetite in sight of an Austrian army. The very +idea of these modern Camillas terrifies me--their creation seems an error +of nature.* + + * Their name was Fernig; they were natives of St. Amand, and of no + remarkable origin. They followed Dumouriez into Flanders, where + they signalized themselves greatly, and became Aides-de-Camp to that + General. At the time of his defection, one of them was shot by a + soldier, whose regiment she was endeavouring to gain over. Their + house having been razed by the Austrians at the beginning of the + war, was rebuilt at the expence of the nation; but, upon their + participation in Dumouriez' treachery, a second decree of the + Assembly again levelled it with the ground. + +Our host, whose politeness is indefatigable, accompanied us a few days +ago to St. Eloy, a large and magnificent abbey, about six miles from +Arras. It is built on a terrace, which commands the surrounding country +as far as Douay; and I think I counted an hundred and fifty steps from +the house to the bottom of the garden, which is on a level with the road. +The cloisters are paved with marble, and the church neat and beautiful +beyond description. The iron work of the choir imitates flowers and +foliage with so much taste and delicacy, that (but for the colour) one +would rather suppose it to be soil, than any durable material.--The monks +still remain, and although the decree has passed for their suppression, +they cannot suppose it will take place. They are mostly old men, and, +though I am no friend to these institutions, they were so polite and +hospitable that I could not help wishing they were permitted, according +to the design of the first Assembly, to die in their habitations-- +especially as the situation of St. Eloy renders the building useless for +any other purpose.--A friend of Mr. de ____ has a charming country-house +near the abbey, which he has been obliged to deny himself the enjoyment +of, during the greatest part of the summer; for whenever the family +return to Arras, their persons and their carriage are searched at the +gate, as strictly as though they were smugglers just arrived from the +coast, under the pretence that they may assist the religious of St. Eloy +in securing some of their property, previous to the final seizure. + +I observe, in walking the streets here, that the common people still +retain much of the Spanish cast of features: the women are remarkably +plain, and appear still more so by wearing faals. The faal is about two +ells of black silk or stuff, which is hung, without taste or form, on the +head, and is extremely unbecoming: but it is worn only by the lower +class, or by the aged and devotees. + +I am a very voluminous correspondent, but if I tire you, it is a proper +punishment for your insincerity in desiring me to continue so. I have +heard of a governor of one of our West India islands who was universally +detested by its inhabitants, but who, on going to England, found no +difficulty in procuring addresses expressive of approbation and esteem. +The consequence was, he came back and continued governor for life.--Do +you make the application of my anecdote, and I shall persevere in +scribbling.--Every Yours. + + + + +Arras. + +It is not fashionable at present to frequent any public place; but as we +are strangers, and of no party, we often pass our evenings at the +theatre. I am fond of it--not so much on account of the representation, +as of the opportunity which it affords for observing the dispositions of +the people, and the bias intended to be given them. The stage is now +become a kind of political school, where the people are taught hatred to +Kings, Nobility, and Clergy, according as the persecution of the moment +requires; and, I think, one may often judge from new pieces the meditated +sacrifice. A year ago, all the sad catalogue of human errors were +personified in Counts and Marquisses; they were not represented as +individuals whom wealth and power had made something too proud, and much +too luxurious, but as an order of monsters, whose existence, +independently of their characters, was a crime, and whose hereditary +possessions alone implied a guilt, not to be expiated but by the +forfeiture of them. This, you will say, was not very judicious; and that +by establishing a sort of incompatibility of virtue with titular +distinctions, the odium was transferred from the living to the dead--from +those who possessed these distinctions to those who instituted them. +But, unfortunately, the French were disposed to find their noblesse +culpable, and to reject every thing which tended to excuse or favour +them. The hauteur of the noblesse acted as a fatal equivalent to every +other crime; and many, who did not credit other imputations, rejoiced in +the humiliation of their pride. The people, the rich merchants, and even +the lesser gentry, all eagerly concurred in the destruction of an order +that had disdained or excluded them; and, perhaps, of all the innovations +which have taken place, the abolition of rank has excited the least +interest. + +It is now less necessary to blacken the noblesse, and the compositions of +the day are directed against the Throne, the Clergy, and Monastic Orders. +All the tyrants of past ages are brought from the shelves of faction and +pedantry, and assimilated to the mild and circumscribed monarchs of +modern Europe. The doctrine of popular sovereignty is artfully +instilled, and the people are stimulated to exert a power which they must +implicitly delegate to those who have duped and misled them. The frenzy +of a mob is represented as the sublimest effort of patriotism; and +ambition and revenge, usurping the title of national justice, immolate +their victims with applause. The tendency of such pieces is too obvious; +and they may, perhaps, succeed in familiarizing the minds of the people +to events which, a few months ago, would have filled them with horror. +There are also numerous theatrical exhibitions, preparatory to the +removal of the nuns from their convents, and to the banishment of the +priests. Ancient prejudices are not yet obliterated, and I believe some +pains have been taken to justify these persecutions by calumny. The +history of our dissolution of the monasteries has been ransacked for +scandal, and the bigotry and biases of all countries are reduced into +abstracts, and exposed on the stage. The most implacable revenge, the +most refined malice, the extremes of avarice and cruelty, are wrought +into tragedies, and displayed as acting under the mask of religion and +the impunity of a cloister; while operas and farces, with ridicule still +more successful, exhibit convents as the abode of licentiousness, +intrigue, and superstition. + +These efforts have been sufficiently successful--not from the merit of +the pieces, but from the novelty of the subject. The people in general +were strangers to the interior of convents: they beheld them with that +kind of respect which is usually produced in uninformed minds by mystery +and prohibition. Even the monastic habit was sacred from dramatic uses; +so that a representation of cloisters, monks, and nuns, their costumes +and manners, never fails to attract the multitude.--But the same cause +which renders them curious, makes them credulous. Those who have seen no +farther than the Grille, and those who have been educated in convents, +are equally unqualified to judge of the lives of the religious; and their +minds, having no internal conviction or knowledge of the truth, easily +become the converts of slander and falsehood. + +I cannot help thinking, that there is something mean and cruel in this +procedure. If policy demand the sacrifice, it does not require that the +victims should be rendered odious; and if it be necessary to dispossess +them of their habitations, they ought not, at the moment they are thrown +upon the world, to be painted as monsters unworthy of its pity or +protection. It is the cowardice of the assassin, who murders before he +dares to rob. + +This custom of making public amusements subservient to party, has, I +doubt not, much contributed to the destruction of all against whom it has +been employed; and theatrical calumny seems to be always the harbinger of +approaching ruin to its object; yet this is not the greatest evil which +may arise from these insidious politics--they are equally unfavourable +both to the morals and taste of the people; the first are injured beyond +calculation, and the latter corrupted beyond amendment. The orders of +society, which formerly inspired respect or veneration, are now debased +and exploded; and mankind, once taught to see nothing but vice and +hypocrisy in those whom they had been accustomed to regard as models of +virtue, are easily led to doubt the very existence of virtue itself: they +know not where to turn for either instruction or example; no prospect is +offered to them but the dreary and uncomfortable view of general +depravity; and the individual is no longer encouraged to struggle with +vicious propensities, when he concludes them irresistibly inherent in his +nature. Perhaps it was not possible to imagine principles at once so +seductive and ruinous as those now disseminated. How are the morals of +the people to resist a doctrine which teaches them that the rich only can +be criminal, and that poverty is a substitute for virtue--that wealth is +holden by the sufferance of those who do not possess it--and that he who +is the frequenter of a club, or the applauder of a party, is exempt from +the duties of his station, and has a right to insult and oppress his +fellow citizens? All the weaknesses of humanity are flattered and called +to the aid of this pernicious system of revolutionary ethics; and if +France yet continue in a state of civilization, it is because Providence +has not yet abandoned her to the influence of such a system. + +Taste is, I repeat it, as little a gainer by the revolution as morals. +The pieces which were best calculated to form and refine the minds of the +people, all abound with maxims of loyalty, with respect for religion, and +the subordinations of civil society. These are all prohibited; and are +replaced by fustian declamations, tending to promote anarchy and discord +--by vulgar and immoral farces, and insidious and flattering panegyrics +on the vices of low life. No drama can succeed that is not supported by +the faction; and this support is to be procured only by vilifying the +Throne, the Clergy, and Noblesse. This is a succedaneum for literary +merit, and those who disapprove are menaced into silence; while the +multitude, who do not judge but imitate, applaud with their leaders--and +thus all their ideas become vitiated, and imbibe the corruption of their +favourite amusement. + +I have dwelt on this subject longer than I intended; but as I would not +be supposed prejudiced nor precipitate in my assertions, I will, by the +first occasion, send you some of the most popular farces and tragedies: +you may then decide yourself upon the tendency; and, by comparing the +dispositions of the French before, and within, the last two years, you +may also determine whether or not my conclusions are warranted by fact. +Adieu.--Yours. + + + + +Arras. + +Our countrymen who visit France for the first time--their imaginations +filled with the epithets which the vanity of one nation has appropriated, +and the indulgence of the other sanctioned--are astonished to find this +"land of elegance," this refined people, extremely inferior to the +English in all the arts that minister to the comfort and accommodation of +life. They are surprized to feel themselves starved by the intrusion of +all the winds of heaven, or smothered by volumes of smoke--that no lock +will either open or shut--that the drawers are all immoveable--and that +neither chairs nor tables can be preserved in equilibrium. In vain do +they inquire for a thousand conveniences which to them seem +indispensible; they are not to be procured, or even their use is unknown: +till at length, after a residence in a score of houses, in all of which +they observe the same deficiencies, they begin to grow sceptical, to +doubt the pretended superiority of France, and, perhaps for the first +time, do justice to their own unassuming country. It must however, be +confessed, that if the chimnies smoke, they are usually surrounded by +marble--that the unstable chair is often covered with silk--and that if a +room be cold, it is plentifully decked with gilding, pictures, and +glasses.--In short, a French house is generally more showy than +convenient, and seldom conveys that idea of domestic comfort which +constitutes the luxury of an Englishman. + +I observe, that the most prevailing ornaments here are family portraits: +almost every dwelling, even among the lower kind of tradesmen, is peopled +with these ensigns of vanity; and the painters employed on these +occasions, however deficient in other requisites of their art, seem to +have an unfortunate knack at preserving likenesses. Heads powdered even +whiter than the originals, laced waistcoats, enormous lappets, and +countenances all ingeniously disposed so as to smile at each other, +encumber the wainscot, and distress the unlucky visitor, who is obliged +to bear testimony to the resemblance. When one sees whole rooms filled +with these figures, one cannot help reflecting on the goodness of +Providence, which thus distributes self-love, in proportion as it denies +those gifts that excite the admiration of others. + +You must not understand what I have said on the furniture of French +houses as applying to those of the nobility or people of extraordinary +fortunes, because they are enabled to add the conveniences of other +countries to the luxuries of their own. Yet even these, in my opinion, +have not the uniform elegance of an English habitation: there is always +some disparity between the workmanship and the materials--some mixture of +splendour and clumsiness, and a want of what the painters call keeping; +but the houses of the gentry, the lesser noblesse, and merchants, are, +for the most part, as I have described---abounding in silk, marble, +glasses, and pictures; but ill finished, dirty, and deficient in articles +of real use.--I should, however, notice, that genteel people are cleaner +here than in the interior parts of the kingdom. The floors are in +general of oak, or sometimes of brick; but they are always rubbed bright, +and have not that filthy appearance which so often disgusts one in French +houses. + +The heads of the lower classes of people are much disturbed by these new +principles of universal equality. We enquired of a man we saw near a +coach this morning if it was hired. "Monsieur--(quoth he--then checking +himself suddenly,)--no, I forgot, I ought not to say Monsieur, for they +tell me I am equal to any body in the world: yet, after all, I know not +well if this may be true; and as I have drunk out all I am worth, I +believe I had better go home and begin work again to-morrow." This new +disciple of equality had, indeed, all the appearance of having sacrificed +to the success of the cause, and was then recovering from a dream of +greatness which he told us had lasted two days. + +Since the day of taking the new oath we have met many equally elevated, +though less civil. Some are undoubtedly paid, but others will distress +their families for weeks by this celebration of their new discoveries, +and must, after all, like our intoxicated philosopher, be obliged to +return "to work again to-morrow." + +I must now bid you adieu--and, in doing so, naturally turn my thoughts to +that country where the rights of the people consist not of sterile and +metaphysic declarations, but of real defence and protection. May they +for ever remain uninterrupted by the devastating chimeras of their +neighbours; and if they seek reform, may it be moderate and permanent, +acceded to reason, and not extorted by violence!--Yours, &c. + + + + +September 2, 1792. + +We were so much alarmed at the theatre on Thursday, that I believe we +shall not venture again to amuse ourselves at the risk of a similar +occurrence. About the middle of the piece, a violent outcry began from +all parts of the house, and seemed to be directed against our box; and I +perceived Madame Duchene, the Presidente of the Jacobins, heading the +legions of Paradise with peculiar animation. You may imagine we were not +a little terrified. I anxiously examined the dress of myself and my +companions, and observing nothing that could offend the affected +simplicity of the times, prepared to quit the house. A friendly voice, +however, exerting itself above the clamour, informed us that the +offensive objects were a cloak and a shawl which hung over the front of +the box.--You will scarcely suppose such grossness possible among a +civilized people; but the fact is, our friends are of the proscribed +class, and we were insulted because in their society.--I have before +noticed, that the guards which were stationed in the theatre before the +revolution are now removed, and a municipal officer, made conspicuous by +his scarf, is placed in the middle front box, and, in case of any tumult, +is empowered to call in the military to his assistance. + +We have this morning been visiting two objects, which exhibit this +country in very different points of view--as the seat of wealth, and the +abode of poverty. The first is the abbey of St. Vaast, a most superb +pile, now inhabited by monks of various orders, but who are preparing to +quit it, in obedience to the late decrees. Nothing impresses one with a +stronger idea of the influence of the Clergy, than these splendid +edifices. We see them reared amidst the solitude of deserts, and in the +gaiety and misery of cities; and while they cheer the one and embellish +the other, they exhibit, in both, monuments of indefatigable labour and +immense wealth.--The facade of St. Vaast is simple and striking, and the +cloisters and every other part of the building are extremely handsome. +The library is supposed to be the finest in France, except the King's, +but is now under the seal of the nation. A young monk, who was our +Cicerone, told us he was sorry it was not in his power to show it. _"Et +nous, Monsieur, nous sommes faches aussi."_--["And we are not less sorry +than yourself, Sir."] + +Thus, with the aid of significant looks, and gestures of disapprobation, +an exchange of sentiments took place, without a single expression of +treasonable import: both parties understood perfectly well, that in +regretting that the library was inaccessible, each included all the +circumstances which attended it.--A new church was building in a style +worthy of the convent--I think, near four hundred feet long; but it was +discontinued at the suppression of the religious orders, and will now, of +course, never be finished. + +From this abode of learned case and pious indolence Mr. de ____ conducted +us to the Mont de Piete, a national institution for lending money to the +poor on pledges, (at a moderate interest,) which, if not redeemed within +a year, are sold by auction, and the overplus, if there remain any, after +deducting the interest, is given to the owner of the pledge. Thousands +of small packets are deposited here, which, to the eye of affluence, +might seem the very refuse of beggary itself.--I could not reflect +without an heart-ache, on the distress of the individual, thus driven to +relinquish his last covering, braving cold to satisfy hunger, and +accumulating wretchedness by momentary relief. I saw, in a lower room, +groupes of unfortunate beings, depriving themselves of different parts of +their apparel, and watching with solicitude the arbitrary valuations; +others exchanging some article of necessity for one of a still greater-- +some in a state of intoxication, uttering execrations of despair; and all +exhibiting a picture of human nature depraved and miserable.--While I was +viewing this scene, I recalled the magnificent building we had just left, +and my first emotions were those of regret and censure. When we only +feel, and have not leisure to reflect, we are indignant that vast sums +should be expended on sumptuous edifices, and that the poor should live +in vice and want; yet the erection of St. Vaast must have maintained +great numbers of industrious hands; and perhaps the revenues of the abbey +may not, under its new possessors, be so well employed. When the +offerings and the tributes to religion are the support of the industrious +poor, it is their best appropriation; and he who gives labour for a day, +is a more useful benefactor than he who maintains in idleness for two. +--I could not help wishing that the poor might no longer be tempted by +the facility of a resource, which perhaps, in most instances, only +increases their distress.--It is an injudicious expedient to palliate an +evil, which great national works, and the encouragement of industry and +manufactures, might eradicate.* + + * In times of public commotion people frequently send their valuable + effects to the Mont de Piete, not only as being secure by its + strength, but as it is respected by the people, who are interested + in its preservation. + +--With these reflections I concluded mental peace with the monks of St. +Vaast, and would, had it depended upon me, have readily comprized the +finishing their great church in the treaty. + +The Primary Assemblies have already taken place in this department. We +happened to enter a church while the young Robespierre was haranguing to +an audience, very little respectable either in numbers or appearance. +They were, however, sufficiently unanimous, and made up in noisy applause +what they wanted in other respects. If the electors and elected of other +departments be of the same complexion with those of Arras, the new +Assembly will not, in any respect, be preferable to the old one. I have +reproached many of the people of this place, who, from their education +and property, have a right to take an interest in the public affairs, +with thus suffering themselves to be represented by the most desperate +and worthless individuals of the town. Their defence is, that they are +insulted and overpowered if they attend the popular meetings, and by +electing _"les gueux et les scelerats pour deputes,"_* they send them to +Paris, and secure their own local tranquillity. + + * The scrubs and scoundrels for deputies. + +--The first of these assertions is but too true, yet I cannot but think +the second a very dangerous experiment. They remove these turbulent and +needy adventurers from the direction of a club to that of government, and +procure a partial relief by contributing to the general ruin. + +Paris is said to be in extreme fermentation, and we are in some anxiety +for our friend M. P____, who was to go there from Montmorency last week. +I shall not close my letter till I have heard from him. + + + + +September 4. + +I resume my pen after a sleepless night, and with an oppression of mind +not to be described. Paris is the scene of proscription and massacres. +The prisoners, the clergy, the noblesse, all that are supposed inimical +to public faction, or the objects of private revenge, are sacrificed +without mercy. We are here in the utmost terror and consternation--we +know not the end nor the extent of these horrors, and every one is +anxious for himself or his friends. Our society consists mostly of +females, and we do not venture out, but hover together like the fowls of +heaven, when warned by a vague yet instinctive dread of the approaching +storm. We tremble at the sound of voices in the street, and cry, with +the agitation of Macbeth, "there's knocking at the gate." I do not +indeed envy, but I most sincerely regret, the peace and safety of +England.--I have no courage to add more, but will enclose a hasty +translation of the letter we received from M. P____, by last night's +post. Humanity cannot comment upon it without shuddering.--Ever Yours, +&c. + + +"Rue St. Honore, Sept. 2, 1792. + +"In a moment like this, I should be easily excused a breach of promise in +not writing; yet when I recollect the apprehension which the kindness of +my amiable friends will feel on my account, I determine, even amidst the +danger and desolation that surround me, to relieve them.--Would to Heaven +I had nothing more alarming to communicate than my own situation! I may +indeed suffer by accident; but thousands of wretched victims are at this +moment marked for sacrifice, and are massacred with an execrable +imitation of rule and order: a ferocious and cruel multitude, headed by +chosen assassins, are attacking the prisons, forcing the houses of the +noblesse and priests, and, after a horrid mockery of judicial +condemnation, execute them on the spot. The tocsin is rung, alarm guns +are fired, the streets resound with fearful shrieks, and an undefinable +sensation of terror seizes on one's heart. I feel that I have committed +an imprudence in venturing to Paris; but the barriers are now shut, and I +must abide the event. I know not to what these proscriptions tend, or if +all who are not their advocates are to be their victims; but an +ungovernable rage animates the people: many of them have papers in their +hands that seem to direct them to their objects, to whom they hurry in +crouds with an eager and savage fury.--I have just been obliged to quit +my pen. A cart had stopped near my lodgings, and my ears were assailed +by the groans of anguish, and the shouts of frantic exultation. +Uncertain whether to descend or remain, I, after a moment's deliberation, +concluded it would be better to have shown myself than to have appeared +to avoid it, in case the people should enter the house, and therefore +went down with the best show of courage I could assume.--I will draw a +veil over the scene that presented itself--nature revolts, and my fair +friends would shudder at the detail. Suffice it to say, that I saw cars, +loaded with the dead and dying, and driven by their yet ensanguined +murderers; one of whom, in a tone of exultation, cried, 'Here is a +glorious day for France!' I endeavoured to assent, though with a +faultering voice, and, as soon as they were passed escaped to my room. +You may imagine I shall not easily recover the shock I received.--At this +moment they say, the enemy are retreating from Verdun. At any other time +this would have been desirable, but at present one knows not what to wish +for. Most probably, the report is only spread with the humane hope of +appeasing the mob. They have already twice attacked the Temple; and I +tremble lest this asylum of fallen majesty should ere morning, be +violated. + +"Adieu--I know not if the courier will be permitted to depart; but, as I +believe the streets are not more unsafe than the houses, I shall make an +attempt to send this. I will write again in a few days. If to-morrow +should prove calm, I shall be engaged in enquiring after the fate of my +friends.--I beg my respects to Mons. And Mad. de ____; and entreat you +all to be as tranquil as such circumstances will permit.--You may be +certain of hearing any news that can give you pleasure immediately. I +have the honour to be," &c. &c. + + + + +Arras, September, 1792. + +You will in future, I believe, find me but a dull correspondent. The +natural timidity of my disposition, added to the dread which a native of +England has of any violation of domestic security, renders me unfit for +the scenes I am engaged in. I am become stupid and melancholy, and my +letters will partake of the oppression of my mind. + +At Paris, the massacres at the prisons are now over, but those in the +streets and in private houses still continue. Scarcely a post arrives +that does not inform M. de ____ of some friend or acquaintance being +sacrificed. Heaven knows where this is to end! + +We had, for two days, notice that, pursuant to a decree of the Assembly, +commissioners were expected here at night, and that the tocsin would be +rung for every body to deliver up their arms. We did not dare go to bed +on either of these nights, but merely lay down in our robes de chambre, +without attempting to sleep. This dreaded business is, however, past. +Parties of the Jacobins paraded the streets yesterday morning, and +disarmed all they thought proper. I observed they had lists in their +hands, and only went to such houses as have an external appearance of +property. Mr. de ____, who has been in the service thirty years, +delivered his arms to a boy, who behaved to him with the utmost +insolence, whilst we sat trembling and almost senseless with fear the +whole time they remained in the house; and could I give you an idea of +their appearance, you would think my terror very justifiable. It is, +indeed, strange and alarming, that all who have property should be +deprived of the means of defending either that or their lives, at a +moment when Paris is giving an example of tumult and assassination to +every other part of the kingdom. Knowing no good reason for such +procedure, it is very natural to suspect a bad one.--I think, on many +accounts, we are more exposed here than at ____, and as soon as we can +procure horses we shall depart.--The following is the translation of our +last letter from Mr. P____. + +"I promised my kind friends to write as soon as I should have any thing +satisfactory to communicate: but, alas! I have no hope of being the +harbinger of any thing but circumstances of a very different tendency. +I can only give you details of the horrors I have already generally +described. Carnage has not yet ceased; and is only become more cool and +more discriminating. All the mild characteristics annihilated; and a +frantic cruelty, which is dignified with the name of patriotism, has +usurped ever faculty, and banished both reason and mercy. + +"Mons. ____, whom I have hitherto known by reputation, as an upright, and +even humane man, had a brother shut up, with a number of other priests, +at the Carmes; and, by his situation and connections, he has such +influence as might, if exerted, have preserved the latter. The +unfortunate brother knowing this, found means, while hourly expecting his +fate, to convey a note to Mr. ____, begging he would immediately release, +and procure him an asylum. The messenger returned with an answer, that +Mons. ____ had no relations in the enemies of his country! + +"A few hours after, the massacres at the Carmes took place.--One Panis,* +who is in the Comite de Surveillance, had, a few days previous to these +dreadful events, become, I know not on what occasion, the depositary of a +large sum of money belonging to a gentleman of his section. + + * Panis has since figured on various occasions. He is a member of + the Convention, and was openly accused of having been an accomplice + in the robbery of the Garde Meuble. + +"A secret and frivolous denunciation was made the pretext for throwing +the owner of the money into prison, where he remained till September, +when his friends, recollecting his danger, flew to the Committee and +applied for his discharge. Unfortunately, the only member of the +Committee present was Panis. He promised to take measures for an +immediate release.--Perhaps he kept his word, but the release was cruel +and final--the prison was attacked, and the victim heard of no more.--You +will not be surprized at such occurrences when I tell you that G____,* +whom you must remember to have heard of as a Jacobin at ____, is +President of the Committee above mentioned--yes, an assassin is now the +protector of the public safety, and the commune of Paris the patron of a +criminal who has merited the gibbet. + + * G____ was afterwards elected (doubtless by a recommendation of the + Jacobins) Deputy for the department of Finisterre, to which he was + sent Commissioner by the Convention. On account of some + unwarrantable proceedings, and of some words that escaped him, which + gave rise to a suspicion that he was privy to the robbery of the + Garde Meuble, he was arrested by the municipality of Quimper + Corentin, of which place he is a native. The Jacobins applied for + his discharge, and for the punishment of the municipality; but the + Convention, who at that time rarely took any decisive measures, + ordered G____ to be liberated, but evaded the other part of the + petition which tended to revenge him. The affair of the Garde + Meuble, was, however, again brought forward; but, most probably, + many of the members had reasons for not discussing too nearly the + accusation against G____; and those who were not interested in + suppressing it, were too weak or too timid to pursue it farther. + +"--I know not if we are yet arrived at the climax of woe and iniquity, +but Brissot, Condorcet, Rolland, &c. and all those whose principles you +have reprobated as violent and dangerous, will now form the moderate side +of the Assembly. Perhaps even those who are now the party most dreaded, +may one day give place to yet more desperate leaders, and become in their +turn our best alternative. What will then be the situation of France? +Who can reflect without trembling at the prospect?--It is not yet safe to +walk the streets decently dressed; and I have been obliged to supply +myself with trowsers, a jacket, coloured neckcloths, and coarse linen, +which I take care to soil before I venture out. + +"The Agrarian law is now the moral of Paris, and I had nearly lost my +life yesterday by tearing a placard written in support of it. I did it +imprudently, not supposing I was observed; and had not some people, known +as Jacobins, come up and interfered in my behalf, the consequence might +have been fatal.--It would be difficult, and even impossible, to attempt +a description of the manners of the people of Paris at this moment: the +licentiousness common to great cities is decency compared with what +prevails in this; it has features of a peculiar and striking description, +and the general expression is that of a monstrous union of opposite +vices. Alternately dissolute and cruel, gay and vindictive, the Parisian +vaunts amidst debauchery the triumph of assassination, and enlivens his +midnight orgies by recounting the sufferings of the massacred +aristocrates: women, whose profession it is to please, assume the _bonnet +rouge_ [red cap], and affect, as a means of seduction, an intrepid and +ferocious courage.--I cannot yet learn if Mons. S____'s sister be alive; +her situation about the Queen makes it too doubtful; but endeavour to +give him hope--many may have escaped whose fears still detain them in +concealment. People of the first rank now inhabit garrets and cellars, +and those who appear are disguised beyond recollection; so that I do not +despair of the safety of some, who are now thought to have perished.-- +I am, as you may suppose, in haste to leave this place, and I hope to +return to Montmorency tomorrow; but every body is soliciting passports. +The Hotel de Ville is besieged, and I have already attended two days +without success.--I beg my respectful homage to Monsieur and Madame de +____; and I have the honour to be, with esteem, the affectionate servant +of my friends in general. + +"L____." + + +You will read M. L____'s letter with all the grief and indignation we +have already felt, and I will make no comment on it, but to give you a +slight sketch of the history of Guermeur, whom he mentions as being +President of the Committee of Surveillance.--In the absence of a man, +whom he called his friend, he seduced his wife, and eloped with her: the +husband overtook them, and fell in the dispute which insued; when +Guermeur, to avoid being taken by the officers of justice, abandoned his +companion to her fate, and escaped alone. After a variety of adventures, +he at length enlisted himself as a grenadier in the regiment of Dillon. +With much assurance, and talents cultivated above the situation in which +he appeared, he became popular amongst his fellow-soldiers, and the +military impunity, which is one effect of the revolution, cast a veil +over his former guilt, or rather indeed enabled him to defy the +punishment annexed to it. When the regiment was quartered at ____, he +frequented and harangued at the Jacobin club, perverted the minds of the +soldiers by seditious addresses, till at length he was deemed qualified +to quit the character of a subordinate incendiary, and figure amongst the +assassins at Paris. He had hitherto, I believe, acted without pay, for +he was deeply in debt, and without money or clothes; but a few days +previous to the tenth of August, a leader of the Jacobins supplied him +with both, paid his debts, procured his discharge, and sent him to Paris. +What intermediate gradations he may have passed through, I know not; but +it is not difficult to imagine the services that have advanced him to his +present situation.--It would be unsafe to risk this letter by the post, +and I close it hastily to avail myself of a present conveyance.--I +remain, Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September 14, 1792. + +The camp of Maulde is broken up, and we deferred our journey, that we +might pass a day at Douay with M. de ____'s son. The road within some +miles of that place is covered with corn and forage, the immediate +environs are begun to be inundated, and every thing wears the appearance +of impending hostility. The town is so full of troops, that without the +interest of our military friends we should scarcely have procured a +lodging. All was bustle and confusion, the enemy are very near, and the +French are preparing to form a camp under the walls. Amidst all this, we +found it difficult to satisfy our curiosity in viewing the churches and +pictures: some of the former are shut, and the latter concealed; we +therefore contented ourselves with seeing the principal ones. + +The town-house is a very handsome building, where the Parliament was +holden previous to the revolution, and where all the business of the +department of the North is now transacted.--In the council-chamber, which +is very elegantly carved, was also a picture of the present King. They +were, at the very moment of our entrance, in the act of displacing it. +We asked the reason, and were told it was to be cut in pieces, and +portions sent to the different popular societies.--I know not if our +features betrayed the indignation we feared to express, but the man who +seemed to have directed this disposal of the portrait, told us we were +not English if we saw it with regret. I was not much delighted with such +a compliment to our country, and was glad to escape without farther +comment. + +The manners of the people seem every where much changed, and are becoming +gross and inhuman. While we were walking on the ramparts, I happened to +have occasion to take down an address, and with the paper and pencil in +my hand turned out of the direct path to observe a chapel on one side of +it. In a moment I was alarmed by the cries of my companions, and beheld +the musquet of the centinel pointed at me, and M. de ____ expostulating +with him. I am not certain if he supposed I was taking a plan of the +fortifications, and meant really more than a threat; but I was +sufficiently frightened, and shall not again approach a town wall with +pencils and paper. + +M. de ____ is one of the only six officers of his regiment who have not +emigrated. With an indignation heated by the works of modern +philosophers into an enthusiastic love of republican governments, and +irritated by the contempt and opposition he has met with from those of +this own class who entertain different principles, he is now become +almost a fanatic. What at first was only a political opinion is now a +religious tenet; and the moderate sectary has acquired the obstinacy of a +martyr, and, perhaps, the spirit of persecution. At the beginning of the +revolution, the necessity of deciding, a youthful ardour for liberty, and +the desire of preserving his fortune, probably determined him to become a +patriot; and pride and resentment have given stability to notions which +might otherwise have fluctuated with circumstances, or yielded to time. +This is but too general the case: the friends of rational reform, and the +supporters of the ancient monarchy, have too deeply offended each other +for pardon or confidence; and the country perhaps will be sacrificed by +the mutual desertions of those most concerned in its preservation. +Actuated only by selfishness and revenge, each party willingly consents +to the ruin of its opponents. The Clergy, already divided among +themselves, are abandoned by the Noblesse--the Noblesse are persecuted by +the commercial interest--and, in short, the only union is amongst the +Jacobins; that is, amongst a few weak persons who are deceived, and a +banditti who betray and profit by their "patriotism." + +I was led to these reflections by my conversation with Mr. de L____ and +his companions. I believe they do not approve of the present extremes, +yet they expressed themselves with the utmost virulence against the +aristocrates, and would hear neither of reconcilement nor palliation. On +the other hand, these dispositions were not altogether unprovoked--the +young men had been persecuted by their relations, and banished the +society of their acquaintance; and their political opinions had acted as +an universal proscription. There were even some against whom the doors +of the parental habitation were shut.--These party violences are +terrible; and I was happy to perceive that the reciprocal claims of duty +and affection were not diminished by them, either in M. de ____, or his +son. He, however, at first refused to come to A____, because he +suspected the patriotism of our society. I pleaded, as an inducement, +the beauty of Mad. G____, but he told me she was an aristocrate. It was +at length, however, determined, that he should dine with us last Sunday, +and that all visitors should be excluded. He was prevented coming by +being ordered out with a party the day we left him; and he has written to +us in high spirits, to say, that, besides fulfilling his object, he had +returned with fifty prisoners. + +We had a very narrow escape in coming home--the Hulans were at the +village of ____, an hour after we passed through it, and treated the poor +inhabitants, as they usually do, with great inhumanity.--Nothing has +alienated the minds of the people so much as the cruelties of these +troops--they plunder and ill treat all they encounter; and their avarice +is even less insatiable than their barbarity. How hard is it, that the +ambition of the Chiefs, and the wickedness of faction, should thus fall +upon the innocent cottager, who perhaps is equally a stranger to the +names of the one, and the principles of the other! + +The public papers will now inform you, that the French are at liberty to +obtain a divorce on almost any pretext, or even on no pretext at all, +except what many may think a very good one--mutual agreement. A lady of +our acquaintance here is become a republican in consequence of the +decree, and probably will very soon avail herself of it; but this +conduct, I conceive, will not be very general. + +Much has been said of the gallantry of the French ladies, and not +entirely without reason; yet, though sometimes inconstant wives, they +are, for the most part, faithful friends--they sacrifice the husband +without forsaking him, and their common interest is always promoted with +as much zeal as the most inviolable attachment could inspire. Mad. de +C____, whom we often meet in company, is the wife of an emigrant, and is +said not to be absolutely disconsolate at his absence; yet she is +indefatigable in her efforts to supply him with money: she even risks her +safety by her solicitude, and has just now prevailed on her favourite +admirer to hasten his departure for the frontiers, in order to convey a +sum she has with much difficulty been raising. Such instances are, I +believe, not very rare; and as a Frenchman usually prefers his interest +to every thing else, and is not quite so unaccommodating as an +Englishman, an amicable arrangement takes place, and one seldom hears of +a separation. + +The inhabitants of Arras, with all their patriotism, are extremely averse +from the assignats; and it is with great reluctance that they consent to +receive them at two-thirds of their nominal value. This discredit of the +paper money has been now two months at a stand, and its rise or fall will +be determined by the success of the campaign.--I bid you adieu for the +last time from hence. We have already exceeded the proposed length of +our visit, and shall set out for St. Omer to-morrow.--Yours. + + + + +St. Omer, September, 1792. + +I am confined to my room by a slight indisposition, and, instead of +accompanying my friends, have taken up my pen to inform you that we are +thus far safe on our journey.--Do not, because you are surrounded by a +protecting element, smile at the idea of travelling forty or fifty miles +in safety. The light troops of the Austrian army penetrate so far, that +none of the roads on the frontier are entirely free from danger. My +female companions were alarmed the whole day--the young for their +baggage, and the old for themselves. + +The country between this and Arras has the appearance of a garden +cultivated for the common use of its inhabitants, and has all the +fertility and beauty of which a flat surface is susceptible. Bethune and +Aire I should suppose strongly fortified. I did not fail, in passing +through the former, to recollect with veneration the faithful minister of +Henry the Fourth. The misfortunes of the descendant of Henry, whom +Sully* loved, and the state of the kingdom he so much cherished, made a +stronger impression on me than usual, and I mingled with the tribute of +respect a sentiment of indignation. + + * Maximilien de Bethune, Duc de Sully. + +What perverse and malignant influence can have excited the people either +to incur or to suffer their present situation? Were we not well +acquainted with the arts of factions, the activity of bad men, and the +effect of their union, I should be almost tempted to believe this change +in the French supernatural. Less than three years ago, the name of Henri +Quatre was not uttered without enthusiasm. The piece that transmitted +the slightest anecdotes of his life was certain of success--the air that +celebrated him was listened to with delight--and the decorations of +beauty, when associated with the idea of this gallant Monarch, became +more irresistible.* + + * At this time it was the prevailing fashion to call any new + inventions of female dress after his name, and to decorate the + ornamental parts of furniture with his resemblance. + +Yet Henry the Fourth is now a tyrant--his pictures and statues are +destroyed, and his memory is execrated!--Those who have reduced the +French to this are, doubtless, base and designing intriguers; yet I +cannot acquit the people, who are thus wrought on, of unfeelingness and +levity.--England has had its revolutions; but the names of Henry the +Fifth and Elizabeth were still revered: and the regal monuments, which +still exist, after all the vicissitudes of our political principles, +attest the mildness of the English republicans. + +The last days of our stay at Arras were embittered by the distress of our +neighbour and acquaintance, Madame de B____. She has lost two sons under +circumstances so affecting, that I think you will be interested in the +relation.--The two young men were in the army, and quartered at +Perpignan, at a time when some effort of counter-revolution was said to +be intended. One of them was arrested as being concerned, and the other +surrendered himself prisoner to accompany his brother.--When the High +Court at Orleans was instituted for trying state-prisoners, those of +Perpignan were ordered to be conducted there, and the two B____'s, +chained together, were taken with the rest. On their arrival at Orleans, +their gaoler had mislaid the key that unlocked their fetters, and, not +finding it immediately, the young men produced one, which answered the +purpose, and released themselves. The gaoler looked at them with +surprize, and asked why, with such a means in their power, they had not +escaped in the night, or on the road. They replied, because they were +not culpable, and had no reason for avoiding a trial that would manifest +their innocence. Their heroism was fatal. They were brought, by a +decree of the Convention, from Orleans to Versailles, (on their way to +Paris,) where they were met by the mob, and massacred. + +Their unfortunate mother is yet ignorant of their fate; but we left her +in a state little preferable to that which will be the effect of +certainty. She saw the decree for transporting the prisoners from +Orleans, and all accounts of the result have been carefully concealed +from her; yet her anxious and enquiring looks at all who approach her, +indicate but too well her suspicion of the truth.--Mons. de ____'s +situation is indescribable. Informed of the death of his sons, he is yet +obliged to conceal his sufferings, and wear an appearance of tranquillity +in the presence of his wife. Sometimes he escapes, when unable to +contain his emotions any longer, and remains at M. de ____'s till he +recovers himself. He takes no notice of the subject of his grief, and we +respect it too much to attempt to console him. The last time I asked him +after Madame de ____, he told me her spirits were something better, and, +added he, in a voice almost suffocated, "She is amusing herself with +working neckcloths for her sons!"--When you reflect that the massacres at +Paris took place on the second and third of September, and that the +decree was passed to bring the prisoners from Orleans (where they were in +safety) on the tenth, I can say nothing that will add to the horror of +this transaction, or to your detestation of its cause. Sixty-two, mostly +people of high rank, fell victims to this barbarous policy: they were +brought in a fort of covered waggons, and were murdered in heaps without +being taken out.* + + * Perhaps the reader will be pleased at a discovery, which it would + have been unsafe to mention when made, or in the course of this + correspondence. The two young men here alluded to arrived at + Versailles, chained together, with their fellow-prisoners. + Surprize, perhaps admiration, had diverted the gaoler's attention + from demanding the key that opened their padlock, and it was still + in their possession. On entering Versailles, and observing the + crowd preparing to attack them, they divested themselves of their + fetters, and of every other incumbrance. In a few moments their + carriages were surrounded, their companions at one end were already + murdered, and themselves slightly wounded; but the confusion + increasing, they darted amidst the croud, and were in a moment + undistinguishable. They were afterwards taken under the protection + of an humane magistrate, who concealed them for some time, and they + are now in perfect security. They were the only two of the whole + number that escaped. + + + + +September, 1792. + +We passed a country so barren and uninteresting yesterday, that even a +professional traveller could not have made a single page of it. It was, +in every thing, a perfect contrast to the rich plains of Artois-- +unfertile, neglected vallies and hills, miserable farms, still more +miserable cottages, and scarcely any appearance of population. The only +place where we could refresh the horses was a small house, over the door +of which was the pompous designation of Hotel d'Angleterre. I know not +if this be intended as a ridicule on our country, or as an attraction to +our countrymen, but I, however, found something besides the appellation +which reminded me of England, and which one does not often find in houses +of a better outside; for though the rooms were small, and only two in +number, they were very clean, and the hostess was neat and civil. The +Hotel d'Angleterre, indeed, was not luxuriously supplied, and the whole +of our repast was eggs and tea, which we had brought with us.--In the +next room to that we occupied were two prisoners chained, whom the +officers were conveying to Arras, for the purpose of better security. +The secret history of this business is worth relating, as it marks the +character of the moment, and the ascendancy which the Jacobins are daily +acquiring. + +These men were apprehended as smugglers, under circumstances of peculiar +atrocity, and committed to the gaol at ____. A few days after, a young +girl, of bad character, who has much influence at the club, made a +motion, that the people, in a body, should demand the release of the +prisoners. The motion was carried, and the Hotel de Ville assailed by a +formidable troop of sailors, fish-women, &c.--The municipality refused to +comply, the Garde Nationale was called out, and, on the mob persisting, +fired over their heads, wounded a few, and the rest dispersed of +themselves.--Now you must understand, the latent motive of all this was +two thousand livres promised to one of the Jacobin leaders, if he +succeeded in procuring the men their liberty.--I do not advance this +merely on conjecture. The fact is well known to the municipality; and +the decent part of it would willingly have expelled this man, who is one +of their members, but that they found themselves too weak to engage in a +serious quarrel with the Jacobins.--One cannot reflect, without +apprehension, that any society should exist which can oppose the +execution of the laws with impunity, or that a people, who are little +sensible of realities, should be thus abused by names. They suffer, with +unfeeling patience, a thousand enormities--yet blindly risk their +liberties and lives to promote the designs of an adventurer, because he +harangues at a club, and calls himself a patriot.--I have just received +advice that my friends have left Lausanne, and are on their way to Paris. +Our first plan of passing the winter there will be imprudent, if not +impracticable, and we have concluded to take a house for the winter six +months at Amiens, Chantilly, or some place which has the reputation of +being quiet. I have already ordered enquiries to be made, and shall set +out with Mrs. ____ in a day or two for Amiens. I may, perhaps, not write +till our return; but shall not cease to be, with great truth.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, 1792. + +The departement de la Somme has the reputation of being a little +aristocratic. I know not how far this be merited, but the people are +certainly not enthusiasts. The villages we passed on our road hither +were very different from those on the frontiers--we were hailed by no +popular sounds, no cries of Vive la nation! except from here and there +some ragged boy in a red cap, who, from habit, associated this salutation +with the appearance of a carriage. In every place where there are half a +dozen houses is planted an unthriving tree of liberty, which seems to +wither under the baneful influence of the _bonnet rouge_. [The red cap.] +This Jacobin attribute is made of materials to resist the weather, and +may last some time; but the trees of liberty, being planted unseasonably, +are already dead. I hope this will not prove emblematic, and that the +power of the Jacobins may not outlive the freedom of the people. + +The Convention begin their labours under disagreeable auspices. A +general terror seems to have seized on the Parisians, the roads are +covered with carriages, and the inns filled with travellers. A new +regulation has just taken place, apparently intended to check this +restless spirit. At Abbeville, though we arrived late and were fatigued, +we were taken to the municipality, our passports collated with our +persons, and at the inn we were obliged to insert in a book our names, +the place of our birth, from whence we came, and where we were going. +This, you will say, has more the features of a mature Inquisition, than a +new-born Republic; but the French have different notions of liberty from +yours, and take these things very quietly.--At Flixecourt we eat out of +pewter spoons, and the people told us, with much inquietude, that they +had sold their plate, in expectation of a decree of the Convention to +take it from them. This decree, however, has not passed, but the alarm +is universal, and does not imply any great confidence in the new +government. + +I have had much difficulty in executing my commission, and have at last +fixed upon a house, of which I fear my friends will not approve; but the +panic which depopulates Paris, the bombardment of Lisle, and the +tranquillity which has hitherto prevailed here, has filled the town, and +rendered every kind of habitation scarce, and extravagantly dear: for you +must remark, that though the Amienois are all aristocrates, yet when an +intimidated sufferer of the same party flies from Paris, and seeks an +asylum amongst them, they calculate with much exactitude what they +suppose necessity may compel him to give, and will not take a livre +less.--The rent of houses and lodgings, like the national funds, rises +and falls with the public distresses, and, like them, is an object of +speculation: several persons to whom we were addressed were extremely +indifferent about letting their houses, alledging as a reason, that if +the disorders of Paris should increase, they had no doubt of letting them +to much greater advantage. + +We were at the theatre last night--it was opened for the first time since +France has been declared a republic, and the Jacobins vociferated loudly +to have the fleur de lys, ad other regal emblems, effaced. Obedience was +no sooner promised to this command, than it was succeeded by another not +quite so easily complied with--they insisted on having the Marsellois +Hymn sung. In vain did the manager, with a ludicrous sort of terror, +declare, that there were none of his company who had any voice, or who +knew either the words of the music of the hymn in question. _"C'est egal, +il faut chanter,"_ ["No matter for that, they must sing."] resounded from +all the patriots in the house. At last, finding the thing impossible, +they agreed to a compromise; and one of the actors promised to sing it on +the morrow, as well as the trifling impediment of having no voice would +permit him.--You think your galleries despotic when they call for an +epilogue that is forgotten, and the actress who should speak it is +undrest; or when they insist upon enlivening the last acts of Jane Shore +with Roast Beef! What would you think if they would not dispense with a +hornpipe on the tight-rope by Mrs. Webb? Yet, bating the danger, I +assure you, the audience of Amiens was equally unreasonable. But liberty +at present seems to be in an undefined state; and until our rulers shall +have determined what it is, the matter will continue to be settled as it +is now--by each man usurping as large a portion of tyranny as his +situation will admit of. He who submits without repining to his +district, to his municipality, or even to the club, domineers at the +theatre, or exercises in the street a manual censure on aristocratic +apparel.* + + *It was common at this time to insult women in the streets if + dressed too well, or in colours the people chose to call + aristocratic. I was myself nearly thrown down for having on a straw + bonnet with green ribbons. + +Our embarrassment for small change is renewed: many of the communes who +had issued bills of five, ten, and fifteen sols, repayable in assignats, +are become bankrupts, which circumstance has thrown such a discredit on +all this kind of nominal money, that the bills of one town will not pass +at another. The original creation of these bills was so limited, that no +town had half the number requisite for the circulation of its +neighbourhood; and this decrease, with the distrust that arises from the +occasion of it, greatly adds to the general inconvenience. + +The retreat of the Prussian army excites more surprize than interest, and +the people talk of it with as much indifference as they would of an event +that had happened beyond the Ganges. The siege of Lisle takes off all +attention from the relief of Thionville--not on account of its +importance, but on account of its novelty.--I remain, Yours, &c. + + + + +Abbeville, September, 1792. + +We left Amiens early yesterday morning, but were so much delayed by the +number of volunteers on the road, that it was late before we reached +Abbeville. I was at first somewhat alarmed at finding ourselves +surrounded by so formidable a cortege; they however only exacted a +declaration of our political principles, and we purchased our safety by a +few smiles, and exclamations of vive la nation! There were some hundreds +of these recruits much under twenty; but the poor fellows, exhilarated by +their new uniform and large pay, were going gaily to decide their fate by +that hazard which puts youth and age on a level, and scatters with +indiscriminating hand the cypress and the laurel. + +At Abbeville all the former precautions were renewed--we underwent +another solemn identification of our persons at the Hotel de Ville, and +an abstract of our history was again enregistered at the inn. One would +really suppose that the town was under apprehensions of a siege, or, at +least, of the plague. My "paper face" was examined as suspiciously as +though I had had the appearance of a travestied Achilles; and M____'s, +which has as little expression as a Chinese painting, was elaborately +scrutinized by a Dogberry in spectacles, who, perhaps, fancied she had +the features of a female Machiavel. All this was done with an air of +importance sufficiently ludicrous, when contrasted with the object; but +we met with no incivility, and had nothing to complain of but a little +additional fatigue, and the delay of our dinner. + +We stopped to change horses at Bernay, and I soon perceived our landlady +was a very ardent patriot. In a room, to which we waded at great risk of +our clothes, was a representation of the siege of the Bastille, and +prints of half a dozen American Generals, headed by Mr. Thomas Paine. On +descending, we found out hostess exhibiting a still more forcible picture +of curiosity than Shakspeare's blacksmith. The half-demolished repast +was cooling on the table, whilst our postilion retailed the Gazette, and +the pigs and ducks were amicably grazing together on whatever the kitchen +produced. The affairs of the Prussians and Austrians were discussed with +entire unanimity, but when these politicians, as is often the case, came +to adjust their own particular account, the conference was much less +harmonious. The postilion offered a ten sols billet, which the landlady +refused: one persisted in its validity, the other in rejecting it--till, +at last, the patriotism of neither could endure this proof, and peace was +concluded by a joint execration of those who invented this fichu papier-- +"Sorry paper." + +At ____ we met our friend, Mad. de ____, with part of her family and an +immense quantity of baggage. I was both surprized and alarmed at such an +apparition, and found, on enquiry, that they thought themselves unsafe at +Arras, and were going to reside near M. de ____'s estate, where they were +better known. I really began to doubt the prudence of our establishing +ourselves here for the winter. Every one who has it in his power +endeavours to emigrate, even those who till now have been zealous +supporters of the revolution.--Distrust and apprehension seem to have +taken possession of every mind. Those who are in towns fly to the +country, while the inhabitant of the isolated chateau takes refuge in the +neighbouring town. Flocks of both aristocrates and patriots are +trembling and fluttering at the foreboding storm, yet prefer to abide its +fury, rather than seek shelter and defence together. I, however, flatter +myself, that the new government will not justify this fear; and as I am +certain my friends will not return to England at this season, I shall not +endeavour to intimidate or discourage them from their present +arrangement. We shall, at least, be enabled to form some idea of a +republican constitution, and I do not, on reflection, conceive that any +possible harm can happen to us. + + + + +October, 1792. + +I shall not date from this place again, intending to quit it as soon as +possible. It is disturbed by the crouds from the camps, which are broken +up, and the soldiers are extremely brutal and insolent. So much are the +people already familiarized with the unnatural depravity of manners that +begins to prevail, that the wife of the Colonel of a battalion now here +walks the streets in a red cap, with pistols at her girdle, boasting of +the numbers she has destroyed at the massacres in August and September. + +The Convention talk of the King's trial as a decided measure; yet no one +seems to admit even the possibility that such an act can be ever +intended. A few believe him culpable, many think him misled, and many +acquit him totally: but all agree, that any violation of his person would +be an atrocity disgraceful to the nation at large.--The fate of Princes +is often disastrous in proportion to their virtues. The vanity, +selfishness, and bigotry of Louis the Fourteenth were flattered while he +lived, and procured him the appellation of Great after his death. The +greatest military talents that France has given birth to seemed created +to earn laurels, not for themselves, but for the brow of that +vain-glorious Monarch. Industry and Science toiled but for his +gratification, and Genius, forgetting its dignity, willingly received +from his award the same it has since bestowed. + +Louis the Fifteenth, who corrupted the people by his example, and ruined +them by his expence, knew no diminution of the loyalty, whatever he might +of the affection, of his people, and ended his days in the practice of +the same vices, and surrounded by the same luxury, in which he had passed +them. + +Louis the Sixteenth, to whom scarcely his enemies ascribe any vices, for +its outrages against whom faction finds no excuse but in the facility of +his nature--whose devotion is at once exemplary and tolerant--who, in an +age of licentiousness, is remarkable for the simplicity of his manners-- +whose amusements were liberal or inoffensive--and whose concessions to +his people form a striking contrast with the exactions of his +predecessors.--Yes, the Monarch I have been describing, and, I think, not +partially, has been overwhelmed with sorrow and indignities--his person +has been degraded, that he might be despoiled of his crown, and perhaps +the sacrifice of his crown may be followed by that of his life. When we +thus see the punishment of guilt accumulated on the head of him who has +not participated in it, and vice triumph in the security that should seem +the lot of innocence, we can only adduce new motives to fortify ourselves +in this great truth of our religion--that the chastisement of the one, +and reward of the other, must be looked for beyond the inflictions or +enjoyments of our present existence. + +I do not often moralize on paper, but there are moments when one derives +one's best consolation from so moralizing; and this easy and simple +justification of Providence, which refers all that appears inconsistent +here to the retribution of a future state, is pointed out less as the +duty than the happiness of mankind. This single argument of religion +solves every difficulty, and leaves the mind in fortitude and peace; +whilst the pride of sceptical philosophy traces whole volumes, only to +establish the doubts, and nourish the despair, of its disciples. + +Adieu. I cannot conclude better than with these reflections, at a time +when disbelief is something too fashionable even amongst our +countrymen.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, October, 1792. + +I arrived here the day on which a ball was given to celebrate the return +of the volunteers who had gone to the assistance of Lisle.* + + *The bombardment of Lisle commenced on the twenty-ninth of + September, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and continued, almost + without interruption, until the sixth of October. Many of the + public buildings, and whole quarters of the town, were so much + damaged or destroyed, that the situation of the streets were + scarcely distinguishable. The houses which the fire obliged their + inhabitants to abandon, were pillaged by barbarians, more merciless + than the Austrians themselves. Yet, amidst these accumulated + horrors, the Lillois not only preserved their courage, but their + presence of mind: the rich incited and encouraged the poor; those + who were unable to assist with their labour, rewarded with their + wealth: the men were employed in endeavouring to extinguish the fire + of the buildings, or in preserving their effects; while women and + children snatched the opportunity of extinguishing the fuzes of the + bombs as soon as they fell, at which they became very daring and + dexterous. During the whole of this dreadful period, not one + murmur, not one proposition to surrender, was heard from any party. + + --The Convention decreed, amidst the wildest enthusiasm of applause, + that Lisle had deserved well of the country. + + --Forty-two thousand five hundred balls were fired, and the damages + were estimated at forty millions of livres. + +The French, indeed, never refuse to rejoice when they are ordered; but as +these festivities are not spontaneous effusions, but official ordinances, +and regulated with the same method as a tax or recruitment, they are of +course languid and uninteresting. The whole of their hilarity seems to +consist in the movement of the dance, in which they are by not means +animated; and I have seen, even among the common people, a cotillion +performed as gravely and as mechanically as the ceremonies of a Chinese +court.--I have always thought, with Sterne, that we were mistaken in +supposing the French a gay nation. It is true, they laugh much, have +great gesticulation, and are extravagantly fond of dancing: but the laugh +is the effect of habit, and not of a risible sensation; the gesture is +not the agitation of the mind operating upon the body, but constitutional +volatility; and their love of dancing is merely the effect of a happy +climate, (which, though mild, does not enervate,) and that love of action +which usually accompanies mental vacancy, when it is not counteracted by +heat, or other physical causes. + +I know such an opinion, if publicly avowed, would be combated as false +and singular; yet I appeal to those who have at all studied the French +character, not as travellers, but by a residence amongst them, for the +support of my opinion. Every one who understands the language, and has +mixed much in society, must have made the same observations.--See two +Frenchmen at a distance, and the vehemence of their action, and the +expression of their features, shall make you conclude they are discussing +some subject, which not only interests, but delights them. Enquire, and +you will find they were talking of the weather, or the price of a +waistcoat!--In England you would be tempted to call in a peace-officer at +the loud tone and menacing attitudes with which two people here very +amicably adjust a bargain for five livres.--In short, we mistake that for +a mental quality which, in fact, is but a corporeal one; and, though the +French may have many good and agreeable points of character, I do not +include gaiety among the number. + +I doubt very much of my friends will approve of their habitation. I +confess I am by no means satisfied with it myself; and, with regard to +pecuniary consideration, my engagement is not an advantageous one. +--Madame Dorval, of whom I have taken the house, is a character very +common in France, and over which I was little calculated to have the +ascendant. Officiously polite in her manners, and inflexibly attentive +to her interest, she seemingly acquiesces in every thing you propose. +You would even fancy she was solicitous to serve you; yet, after a +thousand gracious sentiments, and as many implied eulogiums on her +liberality and generosity, you find her return, with unrelenting +perseverance, to some paltry proposition, by which she is to gain a few +livres; and all this so civilly, so sentimentally, and so determinedly, +that you find yourself obliged to yield, and are duped without being +deceived. + +The lower class have here, as well as on your side of the water, the +custom of attributing to Ministers and Governments some connection with, +or controul over, the operations of nature. I remarked to a woman who +brings me fruit, that the grapes were bad and dear this year--_"Ah! mon +Dieu, oui, ils ne murrissent pas. Il me semble que tout va mal depuis +qu'on a invente la nation."_ ["Ah! Lord, they don't ripen now.--For my +part, I think nothing has gone well since the nation was first +invented."] + +I cannot, like the imitators of Sterne, translate a chapter of sentiment +from every incident that occurs, or from every physiognomy I encounter; +yet, in circumstances like the present, the mind, not usually observing, +is tempted to comment.--I was in a milliner's shop to-day, and took +notice on my entering, that its mistress was, whilst at her work, +learning the _Marseillois_ Hymn. [A patriotic air, at this time highly +popular.] Before I had concluded my purchase, an officer came in to +prepare her for the reception of four volunteers, whom she was to lodge +the two ensuing nights. She assented, indeed, very graciously, (for a +French woman never loses the command of her features,) but a moment +after, the Marseillois, which lay on the counter, was thrown aside in a +pet, and I dare say she will not resume her patriotic taste, nor be +reconciled to the revolution, until some days after the volunteers shall +have changed their quarters. + +This quartering of troops in private houses appears to me the most +grievous and impolitic of all taxes; it adds embarrassment to expence, +invades domestic comfort, and conveys such an idea of military +subjection, that I wonder any people ever submits to it, or any +government ever ventures to impose it. + +I know not if the English are conscious of their own importance at this +moment, but it is certain they are the centre of the hopes and fears of +all parties, I might say of all Europe. The aristocrates wait with +anxiety and solicitude a declaration of war, whilst their opponents +regard such an event as pregnant with distress, and even as the signal of +their ruin. The body of the people of both parties are averse from +increasing the number of their enemies; but as the Convention may be +directed by other motives than the public wish, it is impossible to form +any conclusion on the subject. I am, of course, desirous of peace, and +should be so from selfishness, if I were not from philanthropy, as a +cessation of it at this time would disconcert all our plans, and oblige +us to seek refuge at ____, which has just all that is necessary for our +happiness, except what is most desirable--a mild and dry atmosphere.-- +Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, November, 1792. + +The arrival of my friends has occasioned a short suspension of my +correspondence: but though I have been negligent, I assure you, my dear +brother, I have not been forgetful; and this temporary preference of the +ties of friendship to those of nature, will be excused, when you consider +our long separation. + +My intimacy with Mrs. D____ began when I first came to this country, and +at every subsequent visit to the continent it has been renewed and +increased into that rational kind of attachment, which your sex seldom +allow in ours, though you yourselves do not abound in examples of it. +Mrs. D____ is one of those characters which are oftener loved than +admired--more agreeable than handsome--good-natured, humane, and +unassuming--and with no mental pretensions beyond common sense tolerably +well cultivated. The shades of this portraiture are an extreme of +delicacy, bordering on fastidiousness--a trifle of hauteur, not in +manners, but disposition--and, perhaps, a tincture of affectation. These +foibles are, however, in a great degree, constitutional: she is more an +invalid than myself; and ill health naturally increases irritability, and +renders the mind less disposed to bear with inconveniencies; we avoid +company at first, through a sense of our infirmities, till this timidity +becomes habitual, and settles almost into aversion.--The valetudinarian, +who is obliged to fly the world, in time fancies herself above it, and +ends by supposing there is some superiority in differing from other +people. Mr. D____ is one of the best men existing--well bred and well +informed; yet, without its appearing to the common observer, he is of a +very singular and original turn of mind. He is most exceedingly nervous, +and this effect of his physical construction has rendered him so +susceptible, that he is continually agitated and hurt by circumstances +which others pass by unnoticed. In other respects he is a great lover of +exercise, fond of domestic life, reads much, and has an aversion from +bustle of all kind. + +The banishment of the Priests, which in many instances was attended with +circumstances of peculiar atrocity, has not yet produced those effects +which were expected from it, and which the promoters of the measure +employed as a pretext for its adoption. There are indeed now no masses +said but by the Constitutional Clergy; but as the people are usually as +ingenious in evading laws as legislators are in forming them, many +persons, instead of attending the churches, which they think profaned by +priests who have taken the oaths, flock to church-yards, chapels, or +other places, once appropriated to religious worship, but in disuse since +the revolution, and of course not violated by constitutional masses. The +cemetery of St. Denis, at Amiens, though large, is on Sundays and +holidays so crouded, that it is almost difficult to enter it. Here the +devotees flock in all weathers, say their mass, and return with the +double satisfaction of having preserved their allegiance to the Pope, and +risked persecution in a cause they deem meritorious. To say truth, it is +not very surprizing that numbers should be prejudiced against the +constitutional clergy. Many of them are, I doubt not, liberal and +well-meaning men, who have preferred peace and submission to theological +warfare, and who might not think themselves justified in opposing their +opinion to a national decision: yet are there also many of profligate +lives, who were never educated for the profession, and whom the +circumstances of the times have tempted to embrace it as a trade, which +offered subsistence without labour, and influence without wealth, and +which at once supplied a veil for licentiousness, and the means of +practising it. Such pastors, it must be confessed, have little claim to +the confidence or respect of the people; and that there are such, I do +not assert, but on the most credible information. I will only cite two +instances out of many within my own knowledge. + +P____n, bishop of St. Omer, was originally a priest of Arras, of vicious +character, and many of his ordinations have been such as might be +expected from such a patron.--A man of Arras, who was only known for his +vicious pursuits, and who had the reputation of having accelerated the +death of his wife by ill treatment, applied to P____n to marry him a +second time. The good Bishop, preferring the interest of his friend to +the salvation of his flock, advised him to relinquish the project of +taking a wife, and offered to give him a cure. The proposal was accepted +on the spot, and this pious associate of the Reverend P____n was +immediately invested with the direction of the consciences, and the care +of the morals, of an extensive parish. + +Acts of this nature, it is to be imagined, were pursued by censure and +ridicule; but the latter was not often more successful than on the +following occasion:--Two young men, whose persons were unknown to the +bishop, one day procured an audience, and requested he would recommend +them to some employment that would procure them the means of subsistence. +This was just a time when the numerous vacancies that had taken place +were not yet supplied, and many livings were unfilled for want of +candidates. The Bishop, who was unwilling that the nonjuring priests +should have the triumph of seeing their benefices remain vacant, fell +into the snare, and proposed their taking orders. The young men +expressed their joy at the offer; but, after looking confusedly on each +other, with some difficulty and diffidence, confessed their lives had +been such as to preclude them from the profession, which, but for this +impediment, would have satisfied them beyond their hopes. The Bishop +very complaisantly endeavoured to obviate thesse objections, while they +continued to accuse themselves of all the sins in the decalogue; but the +Prelate at length observing he had ordained many worse, the young men +smiled contemptuously, and, turning on their heels, replied, that if +priests were made of worse men than they had described themselves to be, +they begged to be excused from associating with such company. + +Dumouriez, Custine, Biron, Dillon, &c. are doing wonders, in spite of the +season; but the laurel is an ever-green, and these heroes gather it +equally among the snows of the Alps, and the fogs of Belgium. If we may +credit the French papers too, what they call the cause of liberty is not +less successfully propagated by the pen than the sword. England is said +to be on the eve of a revolution, and all its inhabitants, except the +King and Mr. Pitt, become Jacobins. If I did not believe "the wish was +father to the thought," I should read these assertions with much +inquietude, as I have not yet discovered the excellencies of a republican +form of government sufficiently to make me wish it substituted for our +own.--It should seem that the Temple of Liberty, as well as the Temple of +Virtue, is placed on an ascent, and that as many inflexions and +retrogradations occur in endeavouring to attain it. In the ardour of +reaching these difficult acclivities, a fall sometimes leaves us lower +than the situation we first set out from; or, to speak without a figure, +so much power is exercised by our leaders, and so much submission exacted +from the people, that the French are in danger of becoming habituated to +a despotism which almost sanctifies the errors of their ancient monarchy, +while they suppose themselves in the pursuit of a degree of freedom more +sublime and more absolute than has been enjoyed by any other nation.-- +Attempts at political as well as moral perfection, when carried beyond +the limits compatible with a social state, or the weakness of our +natures, are likely to end in a depravity which moderate governments and +rational ethics would have prevented. + +The debates of the Convention are violent and acrimonious. Robespierre +has been accused of aspiring to the Dictatorship, and his defence was by +no means calculated to exonerate him from the charge. All the chiefs +reproach each other with being the authors of the late massacres, and +each succeeds better in fixing the imputation on his neighbour, than in +removing it from himself. General reprobation, personal invectives, and +long speeches, are not wanting; but every thing which tends to +examination and enquiry is treated with much more delicacy and composure: +so that I fear these first legislators of the republic must, for the +present, be content with the reputation they have assigned each other, +and rank amongst those who have all the guilt, but want the courage, of +assassins. + +I subjoin an extract from a newspaper, which has lately appeared.* + + *Extract from _The Courier de l'Egalite,_ November, 1792: + + "There are discontented people who still venture to obtrude their + sentiments on the public. One of them, in a public print, thus + expresses himself-- + + 'I assert, that the newspapers are sold and devoted to falsehood. + At this price they purchase the liberty of appearing; and the + exclusive privilege they enjoy, as well as the contradictory and + lying assertions they all contain, prove the truth of what I + advance. They are all preachers of liberty, yet never was liberty + so shamefully outraged--of respect for property, and property was at + no time so little held sacred--of personal security, yet when were + there committed so many massacres? and, at the very moment I am + writing, new ones are premeditated. They call vehemently for + submission, and obedience to the laws, but the laws had never less + influence; and while our compliance with such as we are even + ignorant of is exacted, it is accounted a crime to execute those in + force. Every municipality has its own arbitrary code--every + battalion, every private soldier, exercises a sovereignty, a most + absolute despotism; and yet the Gazettes do not cease to boast the + excellence of such a government. They have, one and all, attributed + the massacres of the tenth of August and the second of September, + and the days following each, to a popular fermentation. The + monsters! they have been careful not to tell us, that each of these + horrid scenes (at the prisons, at La Force, at the Abbaye, &c. &c.) + was presided by municipal officers in their scarfs, who pointed out + the victims, and gave the signal for the assassination. It was + (continue the Journals) the error of an irritated people--and yet + their magistrates were at the head of it: it was a momentary error; + yet this error of a moment continued during six whole days of the + coolest reflection--it was only at the close of the seventh that + Petion made his appearance, and affected to persuade the people to + desist. The assassins left off only from fatigue, and at this + moment they are preparing to begin again. The Journals do not tell + us that the chief of these _Scelerats_ [We have no term in the + English language that conveys an adequate meaning for this word--it + seems to express the extreme of human wickedness and atrocity.] + employed subordinate assassins, whom they caused to be clandestinely + murdered in their turn, as though they hoped to destroy the proof of + their crime, and escape the vengeance that awaits them. But the + people themselves were accomplices in the deed, for the Garde + Nationale gave their assistance,'" &c. &c. + +In spite of the murder of so many journalists, and the destruction of the +printing-offices, it treats the September business so freely, that the +editor will doubtless soon be silenced. Admitting these accusations to +be unfounded, what ideas must the people have of their magistrates, when +they are credited? It is the prepossession of the hearer that gives +authenticity to fiction; and such atrocities would neither be imputed to, +nor believed of, men not already bad.--Yours, &c. + + + + +December, 1792. + +Dear Brother, + +All the public prints still continue strongly to insinuate, that England +is prepared for an insurrection, and Scotland already in actual +rebellion: but I know the character of our countrymen too well to be +persuaded that they have adopted new principles as easily as they would +adopt a new mode, or that the visionary anarchists of the French +government can have made many proselytes among an humane and rational +people. For many years we were content to let France remain the +arbitress of the lighter departments of taste: lately she has ceded this +province to us, and England has dictated with uncontested superiority. +This I cannot think very strange; for the eye in time becomes fatigued by +elaborate finery, and requires only the introduction of simple elegance +to be attracted by it. But if, while we export fashions to this country, +we should receive in exchange her republican systems, it would be a +strange revolution indeed; and I think, in such a commerce, we should be +far from finding the balance in our favour. I have, in fact, little +solicitude about these diurnal falsehoods, though I am not altogether +free from alarm as to their tendency. I cannot help suspecting it is to +influence the people to a belief that such dispositions exist in England +as preclude the danger of a war, in case it should be thought necessary +to sacrifice the King. + +I am more confirmed in this opinion, from the recent discovery, with the +circumstances attending it, of a secret iron chest at the Tuilleries. +The man who had been employed to construct this recess, informs the +minister, Rolland; who, instead of communicating the matter to the +Convention, as it was very natural he should do on an occasion of so much +importance, and requiring it to be opened in the presence of proper +witnesses, goes privately himself, takes the papers found into his own +possession, and then makes an application for a committee to examine +them. Under these suspicious and mysterious appearances, we are told +that many letters, &c. are found, which inculpate the King; and perhaps +the fate of this unfortunate Monarch is to be decided by evidence not +admissible with justice in the case of the obscurest malefactor. Yet +Rolland is the hero of a party who call him, par excellence, the virtuous +Rolland! Perhaps you will think, with me, that this epithet is +misapplied to a man who has risen, from an obscure situation to that of +first Minister, without being possessed of talents of that brilliant or +prominent class which sometimes force themselves into notice, without the +aid of wealth or the support of patronage. + +Rolland was inspector of manufactories in this place, and afterwards at +Lyons; and I do not go too far in advancing, that a man of very rigid +virtue could not, from such a station, have attained so suddenly the one +he now possesses. Virtue is of an unvarying and inflexible nature: it +disdains as much to be the flatterer of mobs, as the adulator of Princes: +yet how often must he, who rises so far above his equals, have stooped +below them? How often must he have sacrificed both his reason and his +principles? How often have yielded to the little, and opposed the great, +not from conviction, but interest? For in this the meanest of mankind +resemble the most exalted; he bestows not his confidence on him who +resists his will, nor subscribes to the advancement of one whom he does +not hope to influence.--I may almost venture to add, that more +dissimulation, meaner concessions, and more tortuous policy, are +requisite to become the idol of the people, than are practised to acquire +and preserve the favour of the most potent Monarch in Europe. The +French, however, do not argue in this manner, and Rolland is at present +very popular, and his popularity is said to be greatly supported by the +literary talents of his wife. + +I know not if you rightly understand these party distinctions among a set +of men whom you must regard as united in the common cause of establishing +a republic in France, but you have sometimes had occasion to remark in +England, that many may amicably concur in the accomplishment of a work, +who differ extremely about the participation of its advantages; and this +is already the case with the Convention. Those who at present possess +all the power, and are infinitely the strongest, are wits, moralists, and +philosophers by profession, having Brissot, Rolland, Petion, Concorcet, +&c. at their head; their opponents are adventurers of a more desperate +cast, who make up by violence what they want in numbers, and are led by +Robespierre, Danton, Chabot, &c. &c. The only distinction of these +parties is, I believe, that the first are vain and systematical +hypocrites, who have originally corrupted the minds of the people by +visionary and insidious doctrines, and now maintain their superiority by +artifice and intrigue: their opponents, equally wicked, and more daring, +justify that turpitude which the others seek to disguise, and appear +almost as bad as they are. The credulous people are duped by both; while +the cunning of the one, and the vehemence of the other, alternately +prevail.--But something too much of politics, as my design is in general +rather to mark their effect on the people, than to enter on more +immediate discussions. + +Having been at the Criminal Tribunal to-day, I now recollect that I have +never yet described to you the costume of the French Judges.--Perhaps +when I have before had occasion to speak of it, your imagination may have +glided to Westminster Hall, and depicted to you the scarlet robes and +voluminous wigs of its respectable magistrates: but if you would form an +idea of a magistrate here, you must bring your mind to the abstraction of +Crambo, and figure to yourself a Judge without either gown, wig, or any +of those venerable appendages. Nothing indeed can be more becoming or +gallant, than this judicial accoutrement--it is black, with a silk cloak +of the same colour, in the Spanish form, and a round hat, turned up +before, with a large plume of black feathers. This, when the magistrate +happens to be young, has a very theatrical and romantic appearance; but +when it is worn by a figure a little Esopian, or with a large bushy +perriwig, as I have sometimes seen it, the effect is still less awful; +and a stranger, on seeing such an apparition in the street, is tempted to +suppose it a period of jubilee, and that the inhabitants are in +masquerade. + +It is now the custom for all people to address each other by the +appellation of Citizen; and whether you are a citizen or not--whether you +inhabit Paris, or are a native of Peru--still it is an indication of +aristocracy, either to exact, or to use, any other title. This is all +congruous with the system of the day: the abuses are real, the reform is +imaginary. The people are flattered with sounds, while they are losing +in essentials. And the permission to apply the appellation of Citizen to +its members, is but a poor compensation for the despotism of a department +or a municipality. + +In vain are the people flattered with a chimerical equality--it cannot +exist in a civilized state, and if it could exist any where, it would not +be in France. The French are habituated to subordination--they naturally +look up to something superior--and when one class is degraded, it is only +to give place to another. + +--The pride of the noblesse is succeeded by the pride of the merchant-- +the influence of wealth is again realized by cheap purchases of the +national domains--the abandoned abbey becomes the delight of the opulent +trader, and replaces the demolished chateau of the feudal institution. +Full of the importance which the commercial interest is to acquire under +a republic, the wealthy man of business is easily reconciled to the +oppression of the superior classes, and enjoys, with great dignity, his +new elevation. The counting-house of a manufacturer of woollen cloth is +as inaccessible as the boudoir of a Marquis; while the flowered brocade +gown and well-powdered curls of the former offer a much more imposing +exterior than the chintz robe de chambre and dishevelled locks of the +more affable man of fashion. + +I have read, in some French author, a maxim to this effect:--"Act with +your friends as though they should one day be your enemies;" and the +existing government seems amply to have profited by the admonition of +their country-man: for notwithstanding they affirm, that all France +supports, and all England admires them, this does not prevent their +exercising a most vigilant inquisition over the inhabitants of both +countries.--It is already sagaciously hinted, that Mr. Thomas Paine may +be a spy, and every householder who receives a lodger or visitor, and +every proprietor who lets a house, is obliged to register the names of +those he entertains, or who are his tenants, and to become responsible +for their conduct. This is done at the municipality, and all who thus +venture to change their residence, of whatever age, sex, or condition, +must present themselves, and submit to an examination. The power of the +municipalities is indeed very great; and as they are chiefly selected +from the lower class of shop-keepers, you may conclude that their +authority is not exercised with much politeness or moderation. + +The timid or indolent inhabitant of London, whose head has been filled +with the Bastilles and police of the ancient government, and who would as +soon have ventured to Constantinople as to Paris, reads, in the debates +of the Convention, that France is now the freeest country in the world, +and that strangers from all corners of it flock to offer their adorations +in this new Temple of Liberty. Allured by these descriptions, he +resolves on the journey, willing, for once in his life, to enjoy a taste +of the blessing in sublimate, which he now learns has hitherto been +allowed him only in the gross element.--He experiences a thousand +impositions on landing with his baggage at Calais, but he submits to them +without murmuring, because his countrymen at Dover had, on his +embarkation, already kindly initiated him into this science of taxing the +inquisitive spirit of travellers. After inscribing his name, and +rewarding the custom-house officers for rummaging his portmanteau, he +determines to amuse himself with a walk about the town. The first +centinel he encounters stops him, because he has no cockade: he purchases +one at the next shop, (paying according to the exigency of the case,) and +is suffered to pass on. When he has settled his bill at the Auberge "a +l'Angloise," and emagines he has nothing to do but to pursue his journey, +he finds he has yet to procure himself a passport. He waits an hour and +an half for an officer, who at length appears, and with a rule in one +hand, and a pen in the other, begins to measure the height, and take an +inventory of the features of the astonished stranger. By the time this +ceremony is finished, the gates are shut, and he can proceed no farther, +till the morrow. He departs early, and is awakened twice on the road to +Boulogne to produce his passport: still, however, he keeps his temper, +concluding, that the new light has not yet made its way to the frontiers, +and that these troublesome precautions may be necessary near a port. He +continues his route, and, by degrees, becomes habituated to this regimen +of liberty; till, perhaps, on the second day, the validity of his +passport is disputed, the municipality who granted it have the reputation +of aristocracy, or the whole is informal, and he must be content to wait +while a messenger is dispatched to have it rectified, and the officers +establish the severity of their patriotism at the expence of the +stranger. + +Our traveller, at length, permitted to depart, feels his patience +wonderfully diminished, execrates the regulations of the coast, and the +ignorance of small towns, and determines to stop a few days and observe +the progress of freedom at Ameins. Being a large commercial place, he +here expects to behold all the happy effects of the new constitution; he +congratulates himself on travelling at a period when he can procure +information, and discuss his political opinions, unannoyed by fears of +state prisons, and spies of the police. His landlord, however, acquaints +him, that his appearance at the Town House cannot be dispensed with--he +attends three or four different hours of appointment, and is each time +sent away, (after waiting half an hour with the valets de ville in the +antichamber,) and told that the municipal officers are engaged. As an +Englishman, he has little relish for these subordinate sovereigns, and +difficult audiences--he hints at the next coffee-house that he had +imagined a stranger might have rested two days in a free country, without +being measured, and questioned, and without detailing his history, as +though he were suspected of desertion; and ventures on some implied +comparison between the ancient "Monsieur le Commandant," and the modern +"Citoyen Maire."--To his utter astonishment he finds, that though there +are no longer emissaries of the police, there are Jacobin informers; his +discourse is reported to the municipality, his business in the town +becomes the subject of conjecture, he is concluded to be _"un homme sans +aveu,"_ [One that can't give a good account of himself.] and arrested as +"suspect;" and it is not without the interference of the people to whom +he may have been recommended at Paris, that he is released, and enabled +to continue his journey. + +At Paris he lives in perpetual alarm. One night he is disturbed by a +visite domiciliaire, another by a riot--one day the people are in +insurrection for bread, and the next murdering each other at a public +festival; and our country-man, even after making every allowance for the +confusion of a recent change, thinks himself very fortunate if he reaches +England in safety, and will, for the rest of his life, be satisfied with +such a degree of liberty as is secured to him by the constitution of his +own country. + +You see I have no design of tempting you to pay us a visit; and, to speak +the truth, I think those who are in England will show their wisdom by +remaining there. Nothing but the state of Mrs. D____'s health, and her +dread of the sea at this time of the year, detains us; for every day +subtracts from my courage, and adds to my apprehensions. + +--Yours, &c. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Residence in France During the Years +1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, Part I. 1792, by An English Lady + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11992 *** diff --git a/11992-h/11992-h.htm b/11992-h/11992-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf25c66 --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/11992-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4416 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" + content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of + A Residence in France, +</title> + +<style type="text/css"> + <!-- + body {background:#faebd7} + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin: 10%; + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; } + HR { width: 33%; } + PRE { font-style: italic;} + .toc { margin-left: 15%; margin-bottom: 0em;} + CENTER { padding: 10px;} + // --> + +</style> + +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11992 ***</div> + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="cover (83K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="914" width="749" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + + +<h1>A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE,<br /><br /> + +DURING THE YEARS <br /><br /> + +1792, 1793, 1794, and 1795</h1> +<br /><br /> +<h3>DESCRIBED IN A SERIES OF LETTERS<br /> +FROM AN ENGLISH LADY; <br /> +With General And Incidental Remarks<br /> +On The French Character And Manners.</h3> +<br /><br /> +<h4>Prepared for the Press<br /> +By John Gifford, Esq.<br /> +<br /> + + + +Second Edition.<br /><br /> + +<i>Plus je vis l'Etranger plus j'aimai ma Patrie.</i><br /> +—Du Belloy.<br /><br /> + + +London: Printed for T. N. Longman, Paternoster Row. 1797.</h4> +<br /><br /><br /> + + + + + + + +<h1> + 1792 +</h1> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h2>SAMPLE PAGES FROM THE SECOND VOLUME</h2> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="title (50K)" src="images/title.jpg" height="753" width="450" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-1 (65K)" src="images/p2-1.jpg" height="753" width="457" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-119 (153K)" src="images/p2-119.jpg" height="839" width="1091" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-291 (163K)" src="images/p2-291.jpg" height="840" width="1139" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + + +<hr> +<blockquote> +<p class="toc"><big><b>CONTENTS</b></big></p><br /> + + + + +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_1"> +PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. +</a></p> + +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_3"> +DEDICATION +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2HPRE4"> +PREFACE +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_5"> +<b>A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE.</b> +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_6"> +May 10, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_7"> +May, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_8"> +June 10, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_9"> +June 24, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_10"> +July 24, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_11"> +August 4, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_12"> +August 15. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_13"> +August 22, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_14"> +Hesdin. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_15"> +Arras, August, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_16"> +Lisle, August, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_17"> +Lisle. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_18"> +Lisle, Saturday. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_19"> +Arras, September 1, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_20"> +Arras, September. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_21"> +Arras. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_22"> +Arras. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_23"> +September 2, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_24"> +September 4. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_25"> +Arras, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_26"> +Arras, September 14, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_27"> +St. Omer, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_28"> +September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_29"> +Amiens, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_30"> +Abbeville, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_31"> +October, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_32"> +Amiens, October, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_33"> +Amiens, November, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_34"> +December, 1792. +</a></p> +</blockquote> + +<br /><br /> +<hr> +<br /><br /> + + +<a name="2H_4_1"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. +</h2> +<p> + The following Letters were submitted to my inspection and judgement by + the Author, of whose principles and abilities I had reason to entertain a + very high opinion. How far my judgement has been exercised to advantage + in enforcing the propriety of introducing them to the public, that public + must decide. To me, I confess, it appeared, that a series of important + facts, tending to throw a strong light on the internal state of France, + during the most important period of the Revolution, could neither prove + uninteresting to the general reader, nor indifferent to the future + historian of that momentous epoch; and I conceived, that the opposite and + judicious reflections of a well-formed and well-cultivated mind, + naturally arising out of events within the immediate scope of its own + observation, could not in the smallest degree diminish the interest + which, in my apprehension, they are calculated to excite. My advice upon + this occasion was farther influenced by another consideration. Having + traced, with minute attention, the progress of the revolution, and the + conduct of its advocates, I had remarked the extreme affiduity employed + (as well by translations of the most violent productions of the Gallic + press, as by original compositions,) to introduce and propagate, in + foreign countries, those pernicious principles which have already sapped + the foundation of social order, destroyed the happiness of millions, and + spread desolation and ruin over the finest country in Europe. I had + particularly observed the incredible efforts exerted in England, and, I + am sorry to say, with too much success, for the base purpose of giving a + false colour to every action of the persons exercising the powers of + government in France; and I had marked, with indignation, the atrocious + attempt to strip vice of its deformity, to dress crime in the garb of + virtue, to decorate slavery with the symbols of freedom, and give to + folly the attributes of wisdom. I had seen, with extreme concern, men, + whom the lenity, mistaken lenity, I must call it, of our government had + rescued from punishment, if not from ruin, busily engaged in this + scandalous traffic, and, availing themselves of their extensive + connections to diffuse, by an infinite variety of channels, the poison of + democracy over their native land. In short, I had seen the British + press, the grand palladium of British liberty, devoted to the cause of + Gallic licentiousness, that mortal enemy of all freedom, and even the + pure stream of British criticism diverted from its natural course, and + polluted by the pestilential vapours of Gallic republicanism. I + therefore deemed it essential, by an exhibition of well-authenticated + facts, to correct, as far as might be, the evil effects of + misrepresentation and error, and to defend the empire of truth, which had + been assailed by a host of foes. +</p> +<p> + My opinion of the principles on which the present system of government in + France was founded, and the war to which those principles gave rise, have + been long since submitted to the public. Subsequent events, far from + invalidating, have strongly confirmed it. In all the public declarations + of the Directory, in their domestic polity, in their conduct to foreign + powers, I plainly trace the prevalence of the same principles, the same + contempt for the rights and happiness of the people, the same spirit of + aggression and aggrandizement, the same eagerness to overturn the + existing institutions of neighbouring states, and the same desire to + promote "the universal revolution of Europe," which marked the conduct of + BRISSOT, LE BRUN, DESMOULINS, ROBESPIERRE, and their disciples. Indeed, + what stronger instance need be adduced of the continued prevalence of + these principles, than the promotion to the supreme rank in the state, of + two men who took an active part in the most atrocious proceedings of the + Convention at the close of 1792, and at the commencement of the following + year? +</p> +<p> + In all the various constitutions which have been successively adopted + in that devoted country, the welfare of the people has been wholly + disregarded, and while they have been amused with the shadow of liberty, + they have been cruelly despoiled of the substance. Even on the + establishment of the present constitution, the one which bore the nearest + resemblance to a rational system, the freedom of election, which had been + frequently proclaimed as the very corner-stone of liberty, was shamefully + violated by the legislative body, who, in their eagerness to perpetuate + their own power, did not scruple to destroy the principle on which it was + founded. Nor is this the only violation of their own principles. A + French writer has aptly observed, that "En revolution comme en morale, ce + n'est que le premier pas qui coute:" thus the executive, in imitation of + the legislative body, seem disposed to render their power perpetual. For + though it be expressly declared by the 137th article of the 6th title of + their present constitutional code, that the "Directory shall be partially + renewed by the election of a new member every year," no step towards such + election has been taken, although the time prescribed by the law is + elapsed.—In a private letter from Paris now before me, written within + these few days, is the following observation on this very circumstance: + "The constitution has received another blow. The month of Vendemiaire is + past, and our Directors still remain the same. Hence we begin to drop + the appalation of Directory, and substitute that of the Cinqvir, who are + more to be dreaded for their power, and more to be detested for their + crimes, than the Decemvir of ancient Rome." The same letter also + contains a brief abstract of the state of the metropolis of the French + republic, which is wonderfully characteristic of the attention of the + government to the welfare and happiness of its inhabitants! +</p> +<p> + "The reign of misery and of crime seems to be perpetuated in this + distracted capital: suicides, pillage, and assassinations, are daily + committed, and are still suffered to pass unnoticed. But what renders + our situation still more deplorable, is the existence of an innumerable + band of spies, who infest all public places, and all private societies. + More than a hundred thousand of these men are registered on the books of + the modern SARTINE; and as the population of Paris, at most, does not + exceed six hundred thousand souls, we are sure to find in six individuals + one spy. This consideration makes me shudder, and, accordingly, all + confidence, and all the sweets of social intercourse, are banished from + among us. People salute each other, look at each other, betray mutual + suspicions, observe a profound silence, and part. This, in few words, is + an exact description of our modern republican parties. It is said, that + poverty has compelled many respectable persons, and even state-creditors, + to enlist under the standard of COCHON, (the Police Minister,) because + such is the honourable conduct of our sovereigns, that they pay their + spies in specie—and their soldiers, and the creditors of the state, in + paper.—Such is the morality, such the justice, such are the republican + virtues, so loudly vaunted by our good and dearest friends, our + pensioners—the Gazetteers of England and Germany!" +</p> +<p> + There is not a single abuse, which the modern reformers reprobated so + loudly under the ancient system, that is not magnified, in an infinite + degree, under the present establishment. For one Lettre de Cachet issued + during the mild reign of LOUIS the Sixteenth, a thousand Mandats d'Arret + have been granted by the tyrannical demagogues of the revolution; for one + Bastile which existed under the Monarchy, a thousand Maisons de Detention + have been established by the Republic. In short, crimes of every + denomination, and acts of tyranny and injustice, of every kind, have + multiplied, since the abolition of royalty, in a proportion which sets + all the powers of calculation at defiance. +</p> +<p> + It is scarcely possible to notice the present situation of France, + without adverting to the circumstances of the WAR, and to the attempt now + making, through the medium of negotiation, to bring it to a speedy + conclusion. Since the publication of my Letter to a Noble Earl, now + destined to chew the cud of disappointment in the vale of obscurity, I + have been astonished to hear the same assertions advance, by the members + and advocates of that party whose merit is said to consist in the + violence of their opposition to the measures of government, on the origin + of the war, which had experienced the most ample confutation, without the + assistance of any additional reason, and without the smallest attempt to + expose the invalidity of those proofs which, in my conception, amounted + nearly to mathematical demonstration, and which I had dared them, in + terms the most pointed, to invalidate. The question of aggression before + stood on such high ground, that I had not the presumption to suppose it + could derive an accession of strength from any arguments which I could + supply; but I was confident, that the authentic documents which I offered + to the public would remove every intervening object that tended to + obstruct the fight of inattentive observers, and reflect on it such an + additional light as would flash instant conviction on the minds of all. + It seems, I have been deceived; but I must be permitted to suggest, that + men who persist in the renewal of assertions, without a single effort to + controvert the proofs which have been adduced to demonstrate their + fallacy, cannot have for their object the establishment of truth—which + ought, exclusively, to influence the conduct of public characters, + whether writers or orators. +</p> +<p> + With regard to the negotiation, I can derive not the smallest hopes of + success from a contemplation of the past conduct, or of the present + principles, of the government of France. When I compare the projects of + aggrandizement openly avowed by the French rulers, previous to the + declaration of war against this country, with the exorbitant pretensions + advanced in the arrogant reply of the Executive Directory to the note + presented by the British Envoy at Basil in the month of February, 1796, + and with the more recent observations contained in their official note of + the 19th of September last, I cannot think it probable that they will + accede to any terms of peace that are compatible with the interest and + safety of the Allies. Their object is not so much the establishment as + the extension of their republic. +</p> +<p> + As to the danger to be incurred by a treaty of peace with the republic of + France, though it has been considerably diminished by the events of the + war, it is still unquestionably great. This danger principally arises + from a pertinacious adherence, on the part of the Directory, to those + very principles which were adopted by the original promoters of the + abolition of Monarchy in France. No greater proof of such adherence need + be required than their refusal to repeal those obnoxious decrees (passed + in the months of November and December, 1792,) which created so general + and so just an alarm throughout Europe, and which excited the reprobation + even of that party in England, which was willing to admit the equivocal + interpretation given to them by the Executive Council of the day. I + proved, in the Letter to a Noble Earl before alluded to, from the very + testimony of the members of that Council themselves, as exhibited in + their official instructions to one of their confidential agents, that the + interpretation which they had assigned to those decrees, in their + communications with the British Ministry, was a base interpretation, and + that they really intended to enforce the decrees, to the utmost extent of + their possible operation, and, by a literal construction thereof, to + encourage rebellion in every state, within the reach of their arms or + their principles. Nor have the present government merely forborne to + repeal those destructive laws—they have imitated the conduct of their + predecessors, have actually put them in execution wherever they had the + ability to do so, and have, in all respects, as far as related to those + decrees, adopted the precise spirit and principles of the faction which + declared war against England. Let any man read the instructions of the + Executive Council to PUBLICOLA CHAUSSARD, their Commissary in the + Netherlands, in 1792 and 1793, and an account of the proceedings in the + Low Countries consequent thereon, and then examine the conduct of the + republican General, BOUNAPARTE, in Italy—who must necessarily act from + the instructions of the Executive Directory——and he will be compelled + to acknowledge the justice of my remark, and to admit that the latter + actuated by the same pernicious desire to overturn the settled order of + society, which invariably marked the conduct of the former. +</p> +<p> + "It is an acknowledged fact, that every revolution requires a provisional + power to regulate its disorganizing movements, and to direct the + methodical demolition of every part of the ancient social constitution.— + Such ought to be the revolutionary power. +</p> +<p> + "To whom can such power belong, but to the French, in those countries + into which they may carry their arms? Can they with safety suffer it to + be exercised by any other persons? It becomes the French republic, then, + to assume this kind of guardianship over the people whom she awakens to + Liberty!*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * <i>Considerations Generales fur l'Esprit et les Principes du Decret + du 15 Decembre</i>. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Such were the Lacedaemonian principles avowed by the French government in + 1792, and such is the Lacedaimonian policy* pursued by the French + government in 1796! It cannot then, I conceive, be contended, that a + treaty with a government still professing principles which have been + repeatedly proved to be subversive of all social order, which have been + acknowledged by their parents to have for their object the methodical + demolition of existing constitutions, can be concluded without danger or + risk. That danger, I admit, is greatly diminished, because the power + which was destined to carry into execution those gigantic projects which + constituted its object, has, by the operations of the war, been + considerably curtailed. They well may exist in equal force, but the + ability is no longer the same. +</p> +<p> + MACHIAVEL justly observes, that it was the narrow policy of the + Lacedaemonians always to destroy the ancient constitution, and establish + their own form of government, in the counties and cities which they + subdued. +</p> +<p> + But though I maintain the existence of danger in a Treaty with the + Republic of France, unless she previously repeal the decrees to which I + have adverted, and abrogate the acts to which they have given birth, I by + no means contend that it exists in such a degree as to justify a + determination, on the part of the British government, to make its removal + the sine qua non of negotiation, or peace. Greatly as I admire the + brilliant endowments of Mr. BURKE, and highly as I respect and esteem him + for the manly and decisive part which he has taken, in opposition to the + destructive anarchy of republican France, and in defence of the + constitutional freedom of Britain; I cannot either agree with him on this + point, or concur with him in the idea that the restoration of the + Monarchy of France was ever the object of the war. That the British + Ministers ardently desired that event, and were earnest in their + endeavours to promote it, is certain; not because it was the object of + the war, but because they considered it as the best means of promoting + the object of the war, which was, and is, the establishment of the safety + and tranquillity of Europe, on a solid and permanent basis. If that + object can be attained, and the republic exist, there is nothing in the + past conduct and professions of the British Ministers, that can interpose + an obstacle to the conclusion of peace. Indeed, in my apprehension, it + would be highly impolitic in any Minister, at the commencement of a war, + to advance any specific object, that attainment of which should be + declared to be the sine qua non of peace. If mortals could arrogate to + themselves the attributes of the Deity, if they could direct the course + of events, and controul the chances of war, such conduct would be + justifiable; but on no other principle, I think, can its defence be + undertaken. It is, I grant, much to be lamented, that the protection + offered to the friends of monarchy in France, by the declaration of the + 29th of October, 1793, could not be rendered effectual: as far as the + offer went it was certainly obligatory on the party who made it; but it + was merely conditional—restricted, as all similar offers necessarily + must be, by the ability to fulfil the obligation incurred. +</p> +<p> + In paying this tribute to truth, it is not my intention to retract, in + the smallest degree, the opinion I have ever professed, that the + restoration of the ancient monarchy of France would be the best possible + means not only of securing the different states of Europe from the + dangers of republican anarchy, but of promoting the real interests, + welfare, and happiness of the French people themselves. The reasons on + which this opinion is founded I have long since explained; and the + intelligence which I have since received from France, at different times, + has convinced me that a very great proportion of her inhabitants concur + in the sentiment. +</p> +<p> + The miseries resulting from the establishment of a republican system of + government have been severely felt, and deeply deplored; and I am fully + persuaded, that the subjects and tributaries of France will cordially + subscribe to the following observation on republican freedom, advanced by + a writer who had deeply studied the genius of republics: <i>"Di tutte le + fervitu dure, quella e durissima, che ti sottomette ad una republica; + l'una, perche e la piu durabile, e manco si puo sperarne d'ufare: L'altra + perche il fine della republica e enervare ed indebolire, debolire, per + accrescere il corpo suo, tutti gli altri corpi.</i>*" +</p> +<p> + JOHN GIFFORD. London, Nov. 12, 1796. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * <i>Discorsi di Nicoli Machiavelli,</i> Lib. ii. p. 88. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + P.S. Since I wrote the preceding remarks, I have been given to + understand, that by a decree, subsequent to the completion of the + constitutional code, the first partial renewal of the Executive Directory + was deferred till the month of March, 1979; and that, therefore, in this + instance, the present Directory cannot be accused of having violated the + constitution. But the guilt is only to be transferred from the Directory + to the Convention, who passed that decree, as well as some others, in + contradiction to a positive constitutional law.——-Indeed, the Directory + themselves betrayed no greater delicacy with regard to the observance of + the constitution, or M. BARRAS would never have taken his seat among + them; for the constitution expressly says, (and this positive provision + was not even modified by any subsequent mandate of the Convention,) that + no man shall be elected a member of the Directory who has not completed + his fortieth year—whereas it is notorious that Barras had not this + requisite qualification, having been born in the year 1758! +</p> + + +<hr> + +<p> + I avail myself of the opportunity afforded me by the publication of a + Second Edition to notice some insinuations which have been thrown out, + tending to question the authenticity of the work. The motives which have + induced the author to withhold from these Letters the sanction of her + name, relate not to herself, but to some friends still remaining in + France, whose safety she justly conceives might be affected by the + disclosure. Acceding to the force and propriety of these motives, yet + aware of the suspicions to which a recital of important facts, by an + anonymous writer, would naturally be exposed, and sensible, also, that a + certain description of critics would gladly avail themselves of any + opportunity for discouraging the circulation of a work which contained + principles hostile to their own; I determined to prefix my name to the + publication. By so doing, I conceived that I stood pledged for its + authenticity; and the matter has certainly been put in a proper light by + an able and respectable critic, who has observed that "Mr. GIFFORD stands + between the writer and the public," and that "his name and character are + the guarantees for the authenticity of the Letters." +</p> +<p> + This is precisely the situation in which I meant to place myself— + precisely the pledge which I meant to give. The Letters are exactly what + they profess to be; the production of a Lady's pen, and written in the + very situations which they describe.—The public can have no grounds for + suspecting my veracity on a point in which I can have no possible + interest in deceiving them; and those who know me will do me the justice + to acknowledge, that I have a mind superior to the arts of deception, and + that I am incapable of sanctioning an imposition, for any purpose, or + from any motives whatever. Thus much I deemed it necessary to say, as + well from a regard for my own character, and from a due attention to the + public, as from a wish to prevent the circulation of the work from being + subjected to the impediments arising from the prevalence of a groundless + suspicion. +</p> +<p> + I naturally expected, that some of the preceding remarks would excite the + resentment and draw down the vengeance of those persons to whom they + evidently applied. The contents of every publication are certainly a + fair subject for criticism; and to the fair comments of real critics, + however repugnant to the sentiments I entertain, or the doctrine I seek + to inculcate, I shall ever submit without murmur or reproach. But, when + men, assuming that respectable office, openly violate all the duties + attached to it, and, sinking the critic in the partizan, make a wanton + attack on my veracity, it becomes proper to repel the injurious + imputation; and the same spirit which dictates submission to the candid + award of an impartial judge, prescribes indignation and scorn at the + cowardly attacks of a secret assassin. +</p> +<p> + April 14, 1797. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_2"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + RESIDENCE IN FRANCE +</h2> +<a name="2H_4_3"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + DEDICATION +</h2> +<p> + To The RIGHT HON. EDMUND BURKE. +</p> +<p> + SIR, +</p> +<p> + It is with extreme diffidence that I offer the following pages to Your + notice; yet as they describe circumstances which more than justify Your + own prophetic reflections, and are submitted to the public eye from no + other motive than a love of truth and my country, I may, perhaps, be + excused for presuming them to be not altogether unworthy of such a + distinction. +</p> +<p> + While Your puny opponents, if opponents they may be called, are either + sunk into oblivion, or remembered only as associated with the degrading + cause they attempted to support, every true friend of mankind, + anticipating the judgement of posterity, views with esteem and veneration + the unvarying Moralist, the profound Politician, the indefatigable + Servant of the Public, and the warm Promoter of his country's happiness. +</p> +<p> + To this universal testimony of the great and good, permit me, Sir, to + join my humble tribute; being, with the utmost respect, +</p> +<p> + SIR, +</p> +<p> + Your obedient Servant, THE AUTHOR. Sept. 12, 1796. +</p> +<a name="2HPRE4"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + PREFACE +</h2> +<p> + After having, more than once, in the following Letters, expressed + opinions decidedly unfavourable to female authorship, when not justified + by superior talents, I may, by now producing them to the public, subject + myself to the imputation either of vanity or inconsistency; and I + acknowledge that a great share of candour and indulgence must be + possessed by readers who attend to the apologies usually made on such + occasions: yet I may with the strictest truth alledge, that I should + never have ventured to offer any production of mine to the world, had I + not conceived it possible that information and reflections collected and + made on the spot, during a period when France exhibited a state, of which + there is no example in the annals of mankind, might gratify curiosity + without the aid of literary embellishment; and an adherence to truth, I + flattered myself, might, on a subject of this nature, be more acceptable + than brilliancy of thought, or elegance of language. The eruption of a + volcano may be more scientifically described and accounted for by the + philosopher; but the relation of the illiterate peasant who beheld it, + and suffered from its effects, may not be less interesting to the common + hearer. +</p> +<p> + Above all, I was actuated by the desire of conveying to my countrymen a + just idea of that revolution which they have been incited to imitate, and + of that government by which it has been proposed to model our own. +</p> +<p> + Since these pages were written, the Convention has nominally been + dissolved, and a new constitution and government have succeeded, but no + real change of principle or actors has taken place; and the system, of + which I have endeavoured to trace the progress, must still be considered + as existing, with no other variations than such as have been necessarily + produced by the difference of time and circumstances. The people grew + tired of massacres en masse, and executions en detail: even the national + fickleness operated in favour of humanity; and it was also discovered, + that however a spirit of royalism might be subdued to temporary inaction, + it was not to be eradicated, and that the sufferings of its martyrs only + tended to propagate and confirm it. Hence the scaffolds flow less + frequently with blood, and the barbarous prudence of CAMILLE DESMOULINS' + guillotine economique has been adopted. But exaction and oppression are + still practised in every shape, and justice is not less violated, nor is + property more secure, than when the former was administered by + revolutionary tribunals, and the latter was at the disposition of + revolutionary armies. +</p> +<p> + The error of supposing that the various parties which have usurped the + government of France have differed essentially from each other is pretty + general; and it is common enough to hear the revolutionary tyranny + exclusively associated with the person of ROBESPIERRE, and the + thirty-first of May, 1793, considered as the epoch of its introduction. + Yet whoever examines attentively the situation and politics of France, + from the subversion of the Monarchy, will be convinced that all the + principles of this monstrous government were established during the + administration of the Brissotins, and that the factions which succeeded, + from Danton and Robespierre to Sieyes and Barras, have only developed + them, and reduced them to practice. The revolution of the thirty-first + of May, 1793, was not a contest for system but for power—that of July + the twenty-eighth, 1794, (9th Thermidor,) was merely a struggle which of + two parties should sacrifice the other—that of October the fifth, 1795, + (13th Vendemiaire,) a war of the government against the people. But in + all these convulsions, the primitive doctrines of tyranny and injustice + were watched like the sacred fire, and have never for a moment been + suffered to languish. +</p> +<p> + It may appear incredible to those who have not personally witnessed this + phoenomenon, that a government detested and despised by an immense + majority of the nation, should have been able not only to resist the + efforts of so many powers combined against it, but even to proceed from + defence to conquest, and to mingle surprize and terror with those + sentiments of contempt and abhorrence which it originally excited. +</p> +<p> + That wisdom or talents are not the sources of this success, may be + deduced from the situation of France itself. The armies of the republic + have, indeed, invaded the territories of its enemies, but the desolation + of their own country seems to increase with every triumph—the genius of + the French government appears powerful only in destruction, and inventive + only in oppression—and, while it is endowed with the faculty of + spreading universal ruin, it is incapable of promoting the happiness of + the smallest district under its protection. The unrestrained pillage of + the conquered countries has not saved France from multiplied + bankruptcies, nor her state-creditors from dying through want; and + the French, in the midst of their external prosperity, are often + distinguished from the people whom their armies have been subjugated, + only by a superior degree of wretchedness, and a more irregular + despotism. +</p> +<p> + With a power excessive and unlimited, and surpassing what has hitherto + been possessed by any Sovereign, it would be difficult to prove that + these democratic despots have effected any thing either useful or + beneficent. Whatever has the appearance of being so will be found, on + examination, to have for its object some purpose of individual interest + or personal vanity. They manage the armies, they embellish Paris, they + purchase the friendship of some states and the neutrality of others; but + if there be any real patriots in France, how little do they appreciate + these useless triumphs, these pilfered museums, and these fallacious + negotiations, when they behold the population of their country + diminished, its commerce annihilated, its wealth dissipated, its morals + corrupted, and its liberty destroyed— +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + "Thus, on deceitful Aetna's Flow'ry side + Unfading verdure glads the roving eye, + While secret flames with unextinguish'd rage + Insatiate on her wafted entrails prey, + And melt her treach'rous beauties into ruin." +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + +<p> + Those efforts which the partizans of republicanism admire, and which even + well-disposed persons regard as prodigies, are the simple and natural + result of an unprincipled despotism, acting upon, and disposing of, all + the resources of a rich, populous, and enslaved nation. <i>"Il devient aise + d'etre habile lorsqu'on s'est delivre des scrupules et des loix, de tout + honneur et de toute justice, des droits de ses semblables, et des devoirs + de l'autorite—a ce degre d'independence la plupart des obstacles qui + modifient l'activite humaine disparaissent; l'on parait avoir du talent + lorsqu'on n'a que de l'impudence, et l'abus de la force passe pour + energie.</i>*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * "Exertions of ability become easy, when men have released + themselves from the scruples of conscience, the restraints of law, + the ties of honour, the bonds of justice, the claims of their fellow + creatures, and obedience to their superiors:—at this point of + independence, most of the obstacles which modify human activity + disappear; impudence is mistaken for talents; and the abuse of power + passes for energy." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The operations of all other governments must, in a great measure, be + restrained by the will of the people, and by established laws; with them, + physical and political force are necessarily separate considerations: + they have not only to calculate what can be borne, but what will be + submitted to; and perhaps France is the first country that has been + compelled to an exertion of its whole strength, without regard to any + obstacle, natural, moral, or divine. It is for want of sufficiently + investigating and allowing for this moral and political latitudinarianism + of our enemies, that we are apt to be too precipitate in censuring the + conduct of the war; and, in our estimation of what has been done, we pay + too little regard to the principles by which we have been directed. An + honest man could scarcely imagine the means we have had to oppose, and an + Englishman still less conceive that they would have been submitted to: + for the same reason that the Romans had no law against parricide, till + experience had evinced the possibility of the crime. +</p> +<p> + In a war like the present, advantage is not altogether to be appreciated + by military superiority. If, as there is just ground for believing, our + external hostilities have averted an internal revolution, what we have + escaped is of infinitely more importance to us than what we could + acquire. Commerce and conquest, compared to this, are secondary objects; + and the preservation of our liberties and our constitution + is a more solid blessing than the commerce of both the Indies, or the + conquest of nations. +</p> +<p> + Should the following pages contribute to impress this salutary truth on + my countrymen, my utmost ambition will be gratified; persuaded, that a + sense of the miseries they have avoided, and of the happiness they enjoy, + will be their best incentive, whether they may have to oppose the arms of + the enemy in a continuance of the war, or their more dangerous + machinations on the restoration of peace. +</p> +<p> + I cannot conclude without noticing my obligations to the Gentleman whose + name is prefixed to these volumes; and I think it at the same time + incumbent on me to avow, that, in having assisted the author, he must not + be considered as sanctioning the literary imperfections of the work. + When the subject was first mentioned to him, he did me the justice of + supposing, that I was not likely to have written any thing, the general + tendency of which he might disapprove; and when, on perusing the + manuscript, he found it contain sentiments dissimilar to his own, he was + too liberal to require a sacrifice of them as the condition of his + services.—I confess that previous to my arrival in France in 1792, I + entertained opinions somewhat more favourable to the principle of the + revolution than those which I was led to adopt at a subsequent period. + Accustomed to regard with great justice the British constitution as the + standard of known political excellence, I hardly conceived it possible + that freedom or happiness could exist under any other: and I am not + singular in having suffered this prepossession to invalidate even the + evidence of my senses. I was, therefore, naturally partial to whatever + professed to approach the object of my veneration. I forgot that + governments are not to be founded on imitations or theories, and that + they are perfect only as adapted to the genius, manners, and disposition + of the people who are subject to them. Experience and maturer judgement + have corrected my error, and I am perfectly convinced, that the old + monarchical constitution of France, with very slight meliorations, was + every way better calculated for the national character than a more + popular form of government. +</p> +<p> + A critic, though not very severe, will discover many faults of style, + even where the matter may not be exceptionable. Besides my other + deficiencies, the habit of writing is not easily supplied, and, as I + despaired of attaining excellence, and was not solicitous about degrees + of mediocrity, I determined on conveying to the public such information + as I was possessed of, without alteration or ornament. Most of these + Letters were written exactly in the situation they describe, and remain + in their original state; the rest were arranged according as + opportunities were favourable, from notes and diaries kept when "the + times were hot and feverish," and when it would have been dangerous to + attempt more method. I forbear to describe how they were concealed + either in France or at my departure, because I might give rise to the + persecution and oppression of others. But, that I may not attribute to + myself courage which I do not possess, nor create doubts of my veracity, + I must observe, that I seldom ventured to write till I was assured of + some certain means of conveying my papers to a person who could safely + dispose of them. +</p> +<p> + As a considerable period has elapsed since my return, it may not be + improper to add, that I took some steps for the publication of these + Letters so early as July, 1795. Certain difficulties, however, arising, + of which I was not aware, I relinquished my design, and should not have + been tempted to resume it, but for the kindness of the Gentleman whose + name appears as the Editor. +</p> +<p> + Sept. 12, 1796. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_5"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE. +</h2> +<a name="2H_4_6"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + May 10, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I am every day more confirmed in the opinion I communicated to you on my + arrival, that the first ardour of the revolution is abated.—The bridal + days are indeed past, and I think I perceive something like indifference + approaching. Perhaps the French themselves are not sensible of this + change; but I who have been absent two years, and have made as it were a + sudden transition from enthusiasm to coldness, without passing through + the intermediate gradations, am forcibly struck with it. When I was here + in 1790, parties could be scarcely said to exist—the popular triumph was + too complete and too recent for intolerance and persecution, and the + Noblesse and Clergy either submitted in silence, or appeared to rejoice + in their own defeat. In fact, it was the confusion of a decisive + conquest—the victors and the vanquished were mingled together; and the + one had not leisure to exercise cruelty, nor the other to meditate + revenge. Politics had not yet divided society; nor the weakness and + pride of the great, with the malice and insolence of the little, thinned + the public places. The politics of the women went no farther than a few + couplets in praise of liberty, and the patriotism of the men was confined + to an habit de garde nationale, the device of a button, or a nocturnal + revel, which they called mounting guard.—Money was yet plenty, at least + silver, (for the gold had already begun to disappear,) commerce in its + usual train, and, in short, to one who observes no deeper than myself, + every thing seemed gay and flourishing—the people were persuaded they + were happier; and, amidst such an appearance of content, one must have + been a cold politician to have examined too strictly into the future. + But all this, my good brother, is in a great measure subsided; and the + disparity is so evident, that I almost imagine myself one of the seven + sleepers—and, like them too, the coin I offer is become rare, and + regarded more as medals than money. The playful distinctions of + Aristocrate and Democrate are degenerated into the opprobium and + bitterness of Party—political dissensions pervade and chill the common + intercourse of life—the people are become gross and arbitrary, and the + higher classes (from a pride which those who consider the frailty of + human nature will allow for) desert the public amusements, where they + cannot appear but at the risk of being the marked objects of insult.—The + politics of the women are no longer innoxious—their political principles + form the leading trait of their characters; and as you know we are often + apt to supply by zeal what we want in power, the ladies are far from + being the most tolerant partizans on either side.—The national uniform, + which contributed so much to the success of the revolution, and + stimulated the patriotism of the young men, is become general; and the + task of mounting guard, to which it subjects the wearer, is now a serious + and troublesome duty.—To finish my observations, and my contrast, no + Specie whatever is to be seen; and the people, if they still idolize + their new form of government, do it at present with great sobriety—the + Vive la nation! seems now rather the effect of habit than of feeling; and + one seldom hears any thing like the spontaneous and enthusiastic sounds I + formerly remarked. +</p> +<p> + I have not yet been here long enough to discover the causes of this + change; perhaps they may lie too deep for such an observer as myself: but + if (as the causes of important effects sometimes do) they lie on the + surface, they will be less liable to escape me, than an observer of more + pretentions. Whatever my remarks are, I will not fail to communicate + them—the employment will at least be agreeable to me, though the result + should not be satisfactory to you; and as I shall never venture on any + reflection, without relating the occurrence that gave rise to it, your + own judgement will enable you to correct the errors of mine. +</p> +<p> + I was present yesterday at a funeral service, performed in honour of + General Dillon. This kind of service is common in Catholic countries, + and consists in erecting a cenotaph, ornamented with numerous lights, + flowers, crosses, &c. The church is hung with black, and the mass is + performed the same as if the body were present. On account of General + Dillon's profession, the mass yesterday was a military one. It must + always, I imagine, sound strange to the ears of a Protestant, to hear + nothing but theatrical music on these occasions, and indeed I could never + reconcile myself to it; for if we allow any effect to music at all, the + train of thought which should inspire us with respect for the dead, and + reflections on mortality, is not likely to be produced by the strains in + which Dido bewails Eneas, or in which Armida assails the virtue of + Rinaldo.—I fear, that in general the air of an opera reminds the belle + of the Theatre where she heard it—and, by a natural transition, of the + beau who attended her, and the dress of herself and her neighbours. I + confess, this was nearly my own case yesterday, on hearing an air from + "Sargines;" and had not the funeral oration reminded me, I should have + forgotten the unfortunate event we were celebrating, and which, for some + days before, when undistracted by this pious ceremony, I had dwelt on + with pity and horror.*— +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * At the first skirmish between the French and Austrians near Lisle, + a general panic seized the former, and they retreated in disorder to + Lisle, crying <i>"Sauve qui peut, & nous fomnes (sic) trahis."</i>—"Let + every one shift for himself—we are betrayed." The General, after + in vain endeavouring to rally them, was massacred at his return on + the great square.—My pen faulters, and refuses to describe the + barbarities committed on the lifeless hero. Let it suffice, perhaps + more than suffice, to say, that his mutilated remains were thrown on + a fire, which these savages danced round, with yells expressive of + their execrable festivity. A young Englishman, who was so + unfortunate as to be near the spot, was compelled to join in this + outrage to humanity.—The same day a gentleman, the intimate friend + of our acquaintance, Mad. _____, was walking (unconscious what had + happened) without the gate which leads to Douay, and was met by the + flying ruffians on their return; immediately on seeing him they + shouted, <i>"Voila encore un Aristocrate!"</i> and massacred him on the + spot. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —Independent of any regret for the fate of Dillon, who is said to have + been a brave and good officer, I am sorry that the first event of this + war should be marked by cruelty and licentiousness.—Military discipline + has been much relaxed since the revolution, and from the length of time + since the French have been engaged in a land war, many of the troops must + be without that kind of courage which is the effect of habit. The + danger, therefore, of suffering them to alledge that they are betrayed, + whenever they do not choose to fight, and to excuse their own cowardice + by ascribing treachery to their leaders, is incalculable.—Above all, + every infraction of the laws in a country just supposing itself become + free, cannot be too severely repressed. The National Assembly have done + all that humanity could suggest—they have ordered the punishment of the + assassins, and have pensioned and adopted the General's children. The + orator expatiated both on the horror of the act and its consequences, as + I should have thought, with some ingenuity, had I not been assured by a + brother orator that the whole was "execrable." But I frequently remark, + that though a Frenchman may suppose the merit of his countrymen to be + collectively superior to that of the whole world, he seldom allows any + individual of them to have so large a portion as himself.—Adieu: I have + already written enough to convince you I have neither acquired the + Gallomania, nor forgotten my friends in England; and I conclude with a + wish <i>a propos</i> to my subject—that they may long enjoy the rational + liberty they possess and so well deserve.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_7"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + May, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You, my dear _____, who live in a land of pounds, shillings, and pence, + can scarcely form an idea of our embarrassments through the want of them. + 'Tis true, these are petty evils; but when you consider that they happen + every day, and every hour, and that, if they are not very serious, they + are very frequent, you will rejoice in the splendour of your national + credit, which procures you all the accommodation of paper currency, + without diminishing the circulation of specie. Our only currency here + consists of assignats of 5 livres, 50, 100, 200, and upwards: therefore + in making purchases, you must accommodate your wants to the value of your + assignat, or you must owe the shopkeeper, or the shopkeeper must owe you; + and, in short, as an old woman assured me to-day, "C'est de quoi faire + perdre la tete," and, if it lasted long, it would be the death of her. + Within these few days, however, the municipalities have attempted to + remedy the inconvenience, by creating small paper of five, ten, fifteen, + and twenty sols, which they give in exchange for assignats of five + livres; but the number they are allowed to issue is limited, and the + demand for them so great, that the accommodation is inadequate to the + difficulty of procuring it. On the days on which this paper (which is + called billets de confiance) is issued, the Hotel de Ville is besieged by + a host of women collected from all parts of the district—Peasants, small + shopkeepers, fervant maids, and though last, not least formidable— + fishwomen. They usually take their stand two or three hours before the + time of delivery, and the interval is employed in discussing the news, + and execrating paper money. But when once the door is opened, a scene + takes place which bids defiance to language, and calls for the pencil of + a Hogarth. Babel was, I dare say, comparatively to this, a place of + retreat and silence. Clamours, revilings, contentions, tearing of hair, + and breaking of heads, generally conclude the business; and, after the + loss of half a day's time, some part of their clothes, and the expence of + a few bruises, the combatants retire with small bills to the value of + five, or perhaps ten livres, as the whole resource to carry on their + little commerce for the ensuing week. I doubt not but the paper may have + had some share in alienating the minds of the people from the revolution. + Whenever I want to purchase any thing, the vender usually answers my + question by another, and with a rueful kind of tone inquires, "En papier, + madame?"—and the bargain concludes with a melancholy reflection on the + hardness of the times. +</p> +<p> + The decrees relative to the priests have likewise occasioned much + dissension; and it seems to me impolitic thus to have made religion the + standard of party. The high mass, which is celebrated by a priest who + has taken the oaths, is frequented by a numerous, but, it must be + confessed, an ill-drest and ill-scented congregation; while the low mass, + which is later, and which is allowed the nonjuring clergy, has a gayer + audience, but is much less crouded.—By the way, I believe many who + formerly did not much disturb themselves about religious tenets, have + become rigid Papists since an adherence to the holy see has become a + criterion of political opinion. But if these separatists are bigoted and + obstinate, the conventionalists on their side are ignorant and + intolerant. +</p> +<p> + I enquired my way to-day to the Rue de l'Hopital. The woman I spoke to + asked me, in a menacing tone, what I wanted there. I replied, which was + true, that I merely wanted to pass through the street as my nearest way + home; upon which she lowered her voice, and conducted me very civilly.—I + mentioned the circumstance on my return, and found that the nuns of the + hospital had their mass performed by a priest who had not taken the + oaths, and that those who were suspected of going to attend it were + insulted, and sometimes ill treated. A poor woman, some little time ago, + who conceived perhaps that her salvation might depend on exercising her + religion in the way she had been accustomed to, persisted in going, and + was used by the populace with such a mixture of barbarity and indecency, + that her life was despaired of. Yet this is the age and the country of + Philosophers.—Perhaps you will begin to think Swift's sages, who only + amused themselves with endeavouring to propagate sheep without wool, not + so contemptible. I am almost convinced myself, that when a man once + piques himself on being a philosopher, if he does no mischief you ought + to be satisfied with him. +</p> +<p> + We passed last Sunday with Mr. de ____'s tenants in the country. Nothing + can equal the avidity of these people for news. We sat down after dinner + under some trees in the village, and Mr. de _____ began reading the + Gazette to the farmers who were about us. In a few minutes every thing + that could hear (for I leave understanding the pedantry of a French + newspaper out of the question) were his auditors. A party at quoits in + one field, and a dancing party in another, quitted their amusements, and + listened with undivided attention. I believe in general the farmers are + the people most contented with the revolution, and indeed they have + reason to be so; for at present they refuse to sell their corn unless for + money, while they pay their rent in assignats; and farms being for the + most part on leases, the objections of the landlord to this kind of + payment are of no avail. Great encouragement is likewise held out to + them to purchase national property, which I am informed they do to an + extent that may for some time be injurious to agriculture; for in their + eagerness to acquire land, the deprive themselves of cultivating it. + They do not, like our crusading ancestors, "sell the pasture to buy the + horse," but the horse to buy the pasture; so that we may expect to see in + many places large farms in the hands of those who are obliged to neglect + them. +</p> +<p> + A great change has happened within the last year, with regard to landed + property—so much has been sold, that many farmers have had the + opportunity of becoming proprietors. The rage of emigration, which the + approach of war, pride, timidity, and vanity are daily increasing, has + occasioned many of the Noblesse to sell their estates, which, with those + of the Crown and the Clergy, form a large mass of property, thrown as it + were into general circulation. This may in future be beneficial to the + country, but the present generation will perhaps have to purchase (and + not cheaply) advantages they cannot enjoy. A philanthropist may not + think of this with regret; and yet I know not why one race is preferable + to another, or why an evil should be endured by those who exist now, in + order that those who succeed may be free from it.—I would willingly + plant a million of acorns, that another age might be supplied with oaks; + but I confess, I do not think it quite so pleasant for us to want bread, + in order that our descendants may have a superfluity. +</p> +<p> + I am half ashamed of these selfish arguments; but really I have been led + to them through mere apprehension of what I fear the people may have yet + to endure, in consequence of the revolution. +</p> +<p> + I have frequently observed how little taste the French have for the + country, and I believe all my companions, except Mr. de _____, who took + (as one always does) an interest in surveying his property, were heartily + ennuyes with our little excursion.—Mad. De _____, on her arrival, took + her post by the farmer's fire-side, and was out of humour the whole day, + inasmuch as our fare was homely, and there was nothing but rustics to see + or be seen by. That a plain dinner should be a serious affair, you may + not wonder; but the last cause of distress, perhaps you will not conclude + quite so natural at her years. All that can be said about it is, that + she is a French woman, who rouges, and wears lilac ribbons, at + seventy-four. I hope, in my zeal to obey you, my reflections will not + be too voluminous.—For the present I will be warned by my conscience, + and add only, that I am, Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_8"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + June 10, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You observe, with some surprize, that I make no mention of the Jacobins— + the fact is, that until now I have heard very little about them. Your + English partizans of the revolution have, by publishing their + correspondence with these societies, attributed a consequence to them + infinitely beyond what they have had pretensions to:—a prophet, it is + said, is not honoured in his own country—I am sure a Jacobin is not. + In provincial towns these clubs are generally composed of a few of the + lowest tradesmen, who have so disinterested a patriotism, as to bestow + more attention on the state than on their own shops; and as a man may be + an excellent patriot without the aristocratic talents of reading and + writing, they usually provide a secretary or president, who can supply + these deficiencies—a country attorney, a <i>Pere de l'oratoire,</i> or a + disbanded capuchin, is in most places the candidate for this office. + The clubs often assemble only to read the newspapers; but where they + are sufficiently in force, they make motions for "fetes," censure the + municipalities, and endeavour to influence the elections of the members + who compose them.—That of Paris is supposed to consist of about six + thousand members; but I am told their number and influence are daily + increasing, and that the National Assembly is more subservient to them + than it is willing to acknowledge—yet, I believe, the people at large + are equally adverse to the Jacobins, who are said to entertain the + chimerical project of forming a republic, and to the Aristocrates, who + wish to restore the ancient government. The party in opposition to both + these, who are called the Feuillans,* have the real voice of the people + with them, and knowing this, they employ less art than their opponents, + have no point of union, and perhaps may finally be undermined by + intrigue, or even subdued by violence. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *They derive this appellation, as the Jacobins do theirs, from the + convent at which they hold their meetings. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + You seem not to comprehend why I include vanity among the causes of + emigration, and yet I assure you it has had no small share in many of + them. The gentry of the provinces, by thus imitating the higher + noblesse, imagine they have formed a kind of a common cause, which may + hereafter tend to equalize the difference of ranks, and associate them + with those they have been accustomed to look up to as their superiors. + It is a kind of ton among the women, particularly to talk of their + emigrated relations, with an accent more expressive of pride than regret, + and which seems to lay claim to distinction rather than pity. +</p> +<p> + I must now leave you to contemplate the boasted misfortunes of these + belles, that I may join the card party which forms their alleviation.— + Adieu. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_9"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + June 24, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You have doubtless learned from the public papers the late outrage of the + Jacobins, in order to force the King to consent to the formation of an + army at Paris, and to sign the decree for banishing the nonjuring Clergy. + The newspapers will describe to you the procession of the Sans-Culottes, + the indecency of their banners, and the disorders which were the result— + but it is impossible for either them or me to convey an idea of the + general indignation excited by these atrocities. Every well-meaning + person is grieved for the present, and apprehensive for the future: + and I am not without hope, that this open avowal of the designs of the + Jacobins, will unite the Constitutionalists and Aristocrates, and that + they will join their efforts in defence of the Crown, as the only means + of saving both from being overwhelmed by a faction, who are now become + too daring to be despised. Many of the municipalities and departments + are preparing to address they King, on the fortitude he displayed in this + hour of insult and peril.—I know not why, but the people have been + taught to entertain a mean opinion of his personal courage; and the late + violence will at least have the good effect of undeceiving them. It is + certain, that he behaved on this occasion with the utmost coolness; and + the Garde Nationale, whose hand he placed on his heart, attested that it + had no unusual palpitation. +</p> +<p> + That the King should be unwilling to sanction the raising an army under + the immediate auspice of the avowed enemies of himself, and of the + constitution he has sworn to protect, cannot be much wondered at; and + those who know the Catholic religion, and consider that this Prince is + devout, and that he has reason to suspect the fidelity of all who + approach him, will wonder still less that he refuses to banish a class of + men, whose influence is extensive, and whose interest it is to preserve + their attachment to him. +</p> +<p> + These events have thrown a gloom over private societies; and public + amusements, as I observed in a former letter, are little frequented; so + that, on the whole, time passes heavily with a people who, generally + speaking, have few resources in themselves. Before the revolution, + France was at this season a scene of much gaiety. Every village had + alternately a sort of Fete, which nearly answers to our Wake—but with + this difference, that it was numerously attended by all ranks, and the + amusement was dancing, instead of wrestling and drinking. Several small + fields, or different parts of a large one, were provided with music, + distinguished by flags, and appropriated to the several classes of + dancers—one for the peasants, another for the bourgeois, and a third for + the higher orders. The young people danced beneath the ardour of a July + sun, while the old looked on and regaled themselves with beer, cyder, and + gingerbread. I was always much pleased with this village festivity: it + gratified my mind more than select and expensive amusements, because it + was general, and within the power of all who chose to partake of it; and + the little distinction of rank which was preserved, far from diminishing + the pleasure of any, added, I am certain, to the freedom of all. By + mixing with those only of her own class, the Paysanne* was spared the + temptation of envying the pink ribbons of the Bourgeoise, who in her turn + was not disturbed by an immediate rivalship with the sash and plumes of + the provincial belle. But this custom is now much on the decline. The + young women avoid occasions where an inebriated soldier may offer himself + as her partner in the dance, and her refusal be attended with insult to + herself, and danger to those who protect her; and as this licence is + nearly as offensive to the decent Bourgeoise as to the female of higher + condition, this sort of fete will most probably be entirely abandoned. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The head-dress of the French <i>Paysanne</i> is uniformly a small cap, + without ribbon or ornament of any kind, except in that part of + Normandy which is called the <i>Pays de Caux,</i> where the Paysannes + wear a particular kind of head dress, ornamented with silver. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The people here all dance much better than those of the same rank in + England; but this national accomplishment is not instinctive: for though + few of the laborious class have been taught to read, there are scarcely + any so poor as not to bestow three livres for a quarter's instruction + from a dancing master; and with this three months' noviciate they become + qualified to dance through the rest of their lives. +</p> +<p> + The rage for emigration, and the approach of the Austrians, have + occasioned many restrictions on travelling, especially near the seacoast + of frontiers. No person can pass through a town without a passport from + the municipality he resides in, specifying his age, the place of his + birth, his destination, the height of his person, and the features of his + face. The Marquis de C____ entered the town yesterday, and at the gate + presented his passport as usual; the guard looked at the passport, and in + a high tone demanded his name, whence he came, and where he was going. + M. de C____ referred him to the passport, and suspecting the man could + not read, persisted in refusing to give a verbal account of himself, but + with much civility pressed the perusal of the passport; adding, that if + it was informal, Monsieur might write to the municipality that granted + it. The man, however, did not approve of the jest, and took the Marquis + before the municipality, who sentenced him to a month's imprisonment for + his pleasantry. +</p> +<p> + The French are becoming very grave, and a bon-mot will not now, as + formerly, save a man's life.—I do not remember to have seen in any + English print an anecdote on this subject, which at once marks the levity + of the Parisians, and the wit and presence of mind of the Abbe Maury.—At + the beginning of the revolution, when the people were very much incensed + against the Abbe, he was one day, on quitting the Assembly, surrounded by + an enraged mob, who seized on him, and were hurrying him away to + execution, amidst the universal cry of <i>a la lanterne! a la lanterne!</i> + The Abbe, with much coolness and good humour, turned to those nearest him, + <i>"Eh bien mes amis et quand je serois a la lanterne, en verriez vous plus + clair?"</i> Those who held him were disarmed, the bon-mot flew through the + croud, and the Abbe escaped while they were applauding it.—I have + nothing to offer after this trait which is worthy of succeeding it, but + will add that I am always Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_10"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + July 24, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Our revolution aera has passed tranquilly in the provinces, and with less + turbulence at Paris than was expected. I consign to the Gazette-writers + those long descriptions that describe nothing, and leave the mind as + unsatisfied as the eye. I content myself with observing only, that the + ceremony here was gay, impressive, and animating. I indeed have often + remarked, that the works of nature are better described than those of + art. The scenes of nature, though varied, are uniform; while the + productions of art are subject to the caprices of whim, and the + vicissitudes of taste. A rock, a wood, or a valley, however the scenery + may be diversified, always conveys a perfect and distinct image to the + mind; but a temple, an altar, a palace, or a pavilion, requires a detail, + minute even to tediousness, and which, after all, gives but an imperfect + notion of the object. I have as often read descriptions of the Vatican, + as of the Bay of Naples; yet I recollect little of the former, while the + latter seems almost familiar to me.—Many are strongly impressed with the + scenery of Milton's Paradise, who have but confused ideas of the + splendour of Pandemonium. The descriptions, however, are equally minute, + and the poetry of both is beautiful. +</p> +<p> + But to return to this country, which is not absolutely a Paradise, and I + hope will not become a Pandemonium—the ceremony I have been alluding to, + though really interesting, is by no means to be considered as a proof + that the ardour for liberty increases: on the contrary, in proportion as + these fetes become more frequent, the enthusiasm which they excite seems + to diminish. "For ever mark, Lucilius, when Love begins to sicken and + decline, it useth an enforced ceremony." When there were no + foederations, the people were more united. The planting trees of liberty + seems to have damped the spirit of freedom; and since there has been a + decree for wearing the national colours, they are more the marks of + obedience than proofs of affection.—I cannot pretend to decide whether + the leaders of the people find their followers less warm than they were, + and think it necessary to stimulate them by these shows, or whether the + shows themselves, by too frequent repetition, have rendered the people + indifferent about the objects of them.—Perhaps both these suppositions + are true. The French are volatile and material; they are not very + capable of attachment to principles. External objects are requisite for + them, even in a slight degree; and the momentary enthusiasm that is + obtained by affecting their senses subsides with the conclusion of a + favourite air, or the end of a gaudy procession. +</p> +<p> + The Jacobin party are daily gaining ground; and since they have forced a + ministry of their own on the King, their triumph has become still more + insolent and decisive.—A storm is said to be hovering over us, which I + think of with dread, and cannot communicate with safety—"Heaven square + the trial of those who are implicated, to their proportioned strength!"— + Adieu. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_11"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 4, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I must repeat to you, that I have no talent for description; and, having + seldom been able to profit by the descriptions of others, I am modest + enough not willingly to attempt one myself. But, as you observe, the + ceremony of a foederation, though familiar to me, is not so to my English + friends; I therefore obey your commands, though certain of not succeeding + so as to gratify your curiosity in the manner you too partially expect. +</p> +<p> + The temple where the ceremony was performed, was erected in an open + space, well chosen both for convenience and effect. In a large circle on + this spot, twelve posts, between fifty and sixty feet high, were placed + at equal distances, except one larger, opening in front by way of + entrance. On each alternate post were fastened ivy, laurel, &c. so as to + form a thick body which entirely hid the support. These greens were then + shorn (in the manner you see in old fashioned gardens) into the form of + Doric columns, of dimensions proportioned to their height. The + intervening posts were covered with white cloth, which was so + artificially folded, as exactly to resemble fluted pillars—from the + bases of which ascended spiral wreaths of flowers. The whole was + connected at top by a bold festoon of foliage, and the capital of each + column was surmounted by a vase of white lilies. In the middle of this + temple was placed an altar, hung round with lilies, and on it was deposed + the book of the constitution. The approach to the altar was by a large + flight of steps, covered with beautiful tapestry. +</p> +<p> + All this having been arranged and decorated, (a work of several days,) + the important aera was ushered in by the firing of cannon, ringing of + bells, and an appearance of bustle and hilarity not to be seen on any + other occasion. About ten, the members of the district, the + municipality, and the judges in their habits of ceremony, met at the + great church, and from thence proceeded to the altar of liberty. The + troops of the line, the Garde Nationale of the town, and of all the + surrounding communes, then arrived, with each their respective music and + colours, which (reserving one only of the latter to distinguish them in + the ranks) they planted round the altar. This done, they retired, and + forming a circle round the temple, left a large intermediate space free. + A mass was then celebrated with the most perfect order and decency, and + at the conclusion were read the rights of man and the constitution. The + troops, Garde Nationale, &c. were then addressed by their respective + officers, the oath to be faithful to the nation, the law, and the King, + was administered: every sword was drawn, and every hat waved in the air; + while all the bands of music joined in the favorite strain of ca ira.— + This was followed by crowning, with the civic wreaths hung round the + altar, a number of people, who during the year had been instrumental in + saving the lives of their fellow-citizens that had been endangered by + drowning or other accidents. This honorary reward was accompanied by a + pecuniary one, and a fraternal embrace from all the constituted bodies. + But this was not the gravest part of the ceremony. The magistrates, + however upright, were not all graceful, and the people, though they + understood the value of the money, did not that of the civic wreaths, or + the embraces; they therefore looked vacant enough during this part of the + business, and grinned most facetiously when they began to examine the + appearance of each other in their oaken crowns, and, I dare say, thought + the whole comical enough.—This is one trait of national pedantry. + Because the Romans awarded a civic wreath for an act of humanity, the + French have adopted the custom; and decorate thus a soldier or a sailor, + who never heard of the Romans in his life, except in extracts from the + New Testament at mass. +</p> +<p> + But to return to our fete, of which I have only to add, that the + magistrates departed in the order they observed in coming, and the troops + and Garde Nationale filed off with their hats in the air, and with + universal acclamations, to the sound of ca ira.—Things of this kind are + not susceptible of description. The detail may be uninteresting, while + the general effect may have been impressive. The spirit of the scene I + have been endeavouring to recall seems to have evaporated under my pen; + yet to the spectator it was gay, elegant, and imposing. The day was + fine, a brilliant sun glittered on the banners, and a gentle breeze gave + them motion; while the satisfied countenances of the people added spirit + and animation to the whole. +</p> +<p> + I must remark to you, that devots, and determined aristocrates, ever + attend on these occasions. The piety of the one is shocked at a mass by + a priest who has taken the oaths, and the pride of the other is not yet + reconciled to confusion of ranks and popular festivities. I asked a + woman who brings us fruit every day, why she had not come on the + fourteenth as usual. She told me she did not come to the town, <i>"a cause + de la foederation"—"Vous etes aristocrate donc?"—"Ah, mon Dieu non—ce + n'est pas que je suis aristocrate, ou democrate, mais que je suis + Chretienne.</i>*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"On account of the foederation."—"You are an aristocrate then, I + suppose?"—"Lord, no! It is not because I am an aristocrate, or a + democrate, but because I am a Christian." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This is an instance, among many others I could produce, that our + legislators have been wrong, in connecting any change of the national + religion with the revolution. I am every day convinced, that this and + the assignats are the great causes of the alienation visible in many who + were once the warmest patriots.—Adieu: do not envy us our fetes and + ceremonies, while you enjoy a constitution which requires no oath to make + you cherish it: and a national liberty, which is felt and valued without + the aid of extrinsic decoration.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_12"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 15. +</h2> +<p> + The consternation and horror of which I have been partaker, will more + than apologize for my silence. It is impossible for any one, however + unconnected with the country, not to feel an interest in its present + calamities, and to regret them. I have little courage to write even now, + and you must pardon me if my letter should bear marks of the general + depression. All but the faction are grieved and indignant at the King's + deposition; but this grief is without energy, and this indignation + silent. The partizans of the old government, and the friends of the new, + are equally enraged; but they have no union, are suspicious of each + other, and are sinking under the stupor of despair, when they should be + preparing for revenge.—It would not be easy to describe our situation + during the last week. The ineffectual efforts of La Fayette, and the + violences occasioned by them, had prepared us for something still more + serious. On the ninth, we had a letter from one of the representatives + for this department, strongly expressive of his apprehensions for the + morrow, but promising to write if he survived it. The day, on which we + expected news, came, but no post, no papers, no diligence, nor any means + of information. The succeeding night we sat up, expecting letters by the + post: still, however, none arrived; and the courier only passed hastily + through, giving no detail, but that Paris was <i>a feu et a sang</i>.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * All fire and slaughter. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + At length, after passing two days and nights in this dreadful suspence, + we received certain intelligence which even exceeded our fears.—It is + needless to repeat the horrors that have been perpetrated. The accounts + must, ere now, have reached you. Our representative, as he seemed to + expect, was so ill treated as to be unable to write: he was one of those + who had voted the approval of La Fayette's conduct—all of whom were + either massacred, wounded, or intimidated; and, by this means, a majority + was procured to vote the deposition of the King. The party allow, by + their own accounts, eight thousand persons to have perished on this + occasion; but the number is supposed to be much more considerable. No + papers are published at present except those whose editors, being members + of the Assembly, and either agents or instigators of the massacres, are, + of course, interested in concealing or palliating them.—-Mr. De _____ + has just now taken up one of these atrocious journals, and exclaims, with + tears starting from his eyes, <i>"On a abattu la statue d'Henri quatre!*"</i> +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"They have destroyed the statue of Henry the Fourth." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The sacking of Rome by the Goths offers no picture equal to the + licentiousness and barbarity committed in a country which calls itself + the most enlightened in Europe.—But, instead of recording these horrors, + I will fill up my paper with the Choeur Bearnais. +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + + + + + <i>Choeur Bearnais. + + "Un troubadour Bearnais, + "Le yeux inoudes de larmes, + "A ses montagnards + "Chantoit ce refrein source d'alarmes— + "Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris! + "Il a tremble pour les jours + "De sa compagne cherie + "Qui n'a troube de secours + "Que dans sa propre energie; + "Elle suit le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris. + + "Quel crime ont ils donc commis + "Pour etre enchaines de meme? + "Du peuple ils sont les amis, + "Le peuple veut il qu'on l'aime, + "Quand il met le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris? + + "Le Dauphin, ce fils cheri, + "Qui seul fait notre esperance, + "De pleurs sera donc nourri; + "Les Berceaux qu'on donne en France + "Aux enfans de notre Henri + "Sont les prisons de Paris. + + "Il a vu couler le sang + "De ce garde fidele, + "Qui vient d'offrir en mourant + "Aux Francais un beau modele; + Mais Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Il n'est si triste appareil + "Qui du respect nous degage, + "Les feux ardens du Soleil + "Savent percer le nuage: + "Le prisonnier de Paris + "Est toujours le fils d'Henri. + + "Francais, trop ingrats Francais + "Rendez le Roi a sa compagne; + "C'est le bien du Bearnais, + "C'est l'enfant de la Montagne: + "Le bonheur qu' avoit Henri + "Nous l'affarons a Louis. + + "Chez vouz l'homme a de ses droits + "Recouvre le noble usage, + "Et vous opprimez vos rois, + "Ah! quel injuste partage! + "Le peuple est libre, et Louis + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Au pied de ce monument + "Ou le bon Henri respire + "Pourquoi l'airain foudroyant? + "Ah l'on veut qu' Henri conspire + "Lui meme contre son fils + "Dans les prisons de Paris."</i> + + +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + +<p> + It was published some time ago in a periodical work, (written with great + spirit and talents,) called "The Acts of the Apostles," and, I believe, + has not yet appeared in England. The situation of the King gives a + peculiar interest to these stanzas, which, merely as a poetical + composition, are very beautiful. I have often attempted to translate + them, but have always found it impossible to preserve the effect and + simplicity of the original. They are set to a little plaintive air, very + happily characteristic of the words. +</p> +<p> + Perhaps I shall not write to you again from hence, as we depart for + A_____ on Tuesday next. A change of scene will dissipate a little the + seriousness we have contracted during the late events. If I were + determined to indulge grief or melancholy, I would never remove from the + spot where I had formed the resolution. Man is a proud animal even when + oppressed by misfortune. He seeks for his tranquility in reason and + reflection; whereas, a post-chaise and four, or even a hard-trotting + horse, is worth all the philosophy in the world.—But, if, as I observed + before, a man be determined to resist consolation, he cannot do better + than stay at home, and reason and phosophize. +</p> +<p> + Adieu:—the situation of my friends in this country makes me think of + England with pleasure and respect; and I shall conclude with a very + homely couplet, which, after all the fashionable liberality of modern + travellers, contains a great deal of truth: +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + + "Amongst mankind + "We ne'er shall find + "The worth we left at home." +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + +<p> + Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_13"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 22, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The hour is past, in which, if the King's friends had exerted themselves, + they might have procured a movement in his favour. The people were at + first amazed, then grieved; but the national philosophy already begins to + operate, and they will sink into indifference, till again awakened by + some new calamity. The leaders of the faction do not, however, entirely + depend either on the supineness of their adversaries, or the submission + of the people. Money is distributed amongst the idle and indigent, and + agents are nightly employed in the public houses to comment on + newspapers, written for the purpose to blacken the King and exalt the + patriotism of the party who have dethroned him. Much use has likewise + been made of the advances of the Prussians towards Champagne, and the + usual mummery of ceremony has not been wanting. Robespierre, in a burst + of extemporary energy, previously studied, has declared the country in + danger. The declaration has been echoed by all the departments, and + proclaimed to the people with much solemnity. We were not behind hand in + the ceremonial of the business, though, somehow, the effect was not so + serious and imposing as one could have wished on such an occasion. A + smart flag, with the words "Citizens, the country is in danger," was + prepared; the judges and the municipality were in their costume, the + troops and Garde Nationale under arms, and an orator, surrounded by his + cortege, harangued in the principal parts of the town on the text of the + banner which waved before him. +</p> +<p> + All this was very well; but, unfortunately, in order to distinguish the + orator amidst the croud, it was determined he should harangue on + horseback. Now here arose a difficulty which all the ardour of + patriotism was not able to surmount. The French are in general but + indifferent equestrians; and it so happened that, in our municipality, + those who could speak could not ride, and those who could ride could not + speak. At length, however, after much debating, it was determined that + arms should yield to the gown, or rather, the horse to the orator—with + this precaution, that the monture should be properly secured, by an + attendant to hold the bridle. Under this safeguard, the rhetorician + issued forth, and the first part of the speech was performed without + accident; but when, by way of relieving the declaimer, the whole military + band began to flourish ca ira, the horse, even more patriotic than his + rider, curvetted and twisted with so much animation, that however the + spectators might be delighted, the orator was far from participating in + their satisfaction. After all this, the speech was to be finished, and + the silence of the music did not immediately tranquillize the animal. + The orator's eye wandered from the paper that contained his speech, with + wistful glances toward the mane; the fervor of his indignation against + the Austrians was frequently calmed by the involuntary strikings he was + obliged to submit to; and at the very crisis of the emphatic declaration, + he seemed much less occupied by his country's danger than his own. The + people, who were highly amused, I dare say, conceived the whole ceremony + to be a rejoicing, and at every repetition that the country was in + danger, joined with great glee in the chorus of <i>ca ira</i>.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The oration consisted of several parts, each ending with a kind of + burden of <i>"Citoyens, la patri est en danger;"</i> and the arrangers of + the ceremony had not selected appropriate music: so that the band, + who had been accustomed to play nothing else on public occasions, + struck up <i>ca ira</i> at every declaration that the country was in + danger! +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Many of the spectators, I believe, had for some time been convinced of + the danger that threatened the country, and did not suppose it much + increased by the events of the war; others were pleased with a show, + without troubling themselves about the occasion of it; and the mass, + except when rouzed to attention by their favourite air, or the + exhibitions of the equestrian orator, looked on with vacant stupidity. + —This tremendous flag is now suspended from a window of the Hotel de + Ville, where it is to remain until the inscription it wears shall no + longer be true; and I heartily wish, the distresses of the country may + not be more durable than the texture on which they are proclaimed. +</p> +<p> + Our journey is fixed for to-morrow, and all the morning has been passed + in attendance for our passports.—This affair is not so quickly + dispatched as you may imagine. The French are, indeed, said to be a very + lively people, but we mistake their volubility for vivacity; for in their + public offices, their shops, and in any transaction of business, no + people on earth can be more tedious—they are slow, irregular, and + loquacious; and a retail English Quaker, with all his formalities, would + dispose of half his stock in less time than you can purchase a three sols + stamp from a brisk French Commis. You may therefore conceive, that this + official portraiture of so many females was a work of time, and not very + pleasant to the originals. The delicacy of an Englishman may be shocked + at the idea of examining and registering a lady's features one after + another, like the articles of a bill of lading; but the cold and + systematic gallantry of a Frenchman is not so scrupulous.—The officer, + however, who is employed for this purpose here, is civil, and I suspected + the infinity of my nose, and the acuteness of Mad. de ____'s chin, might + have disconcerted him; but he extricated himself very decently. My nose + is enrolled in the order of aquilines, and the old lady's chin pared off + to a <i>"menton un peu pointu."</i>—["A longish chin."] +</p> +<p> + The carriages are ordered for seven to-morrow. Recollect, that seven + females, with all their appointments, are to occupy them, and then + calculate the hour I shall begin increasing my distance from England and + my friends. I shall not do it without regret; yet perhaps you will be + less inclined to pity me than the unfortunate wights who are to escort + us. A journey of an hundred miles, with French horses, French carriages, + French harness, and such an unreasonable female charge, is, I confess, in + great humility, not to be ventured on without a most determined + patience.—I shall write to you on our arrival at Arras; and am, till + then, at all times, and in all places, Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_14"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Hesdin. +</h2> +<p> + We arrived here last night, notwithstanding the difficulties of our first + setting out, in tolerable time; but I have gained so little in point of + repose, that I might as well have continued my journey. We are lodged at + an inn which, though large and the best in the town, is so disgustingly + filthy, that I could not determine to undress myself, and am now up and + scribbling, till my companions shall be ready. Our embarkation will, I + foresee, be a work of time and labour; for my friend, Mad. de ____, + besides the usual attendants on a French woman, a femme de chambre and a + lap-dog, travels with several cages of canary-birds, some pots of curious + exotics, and a favourite cat; all of which must be disposed of so as to + produce no interstine commotions during the journey. Now if you consider + the nature of these fellow-travellers, you will allow it not so easy a + matter as may at first be supposed, especially as their fair mistress + will not allow any of them to be placed in any other carriage than her + own.—A fray happened yesterday between the cat and the dog, during which + the birds were overset, and the plants broken. Poor M. de ____, with a + sort of rueful good nature, separated the combatants, restored order, and + was obliged to purchase peace by charging himself with the care of the + aggressor. +</p> +<p> + I should not have dwelt so long on these trifling occurrences, but that + they are characteristic. In England, this passion for animals is chiefly + confined to old maids, but here it is general. Almost every woman, + however numerous her family, has a nursery of birds, an angola, and two + or three lap-dogs, who share her cares with her husband and children. + The dogs have all romantic names, and are enquired after with so much + solicitude when they do not make one in a visit, that it was some time + before I discovered that Nina and Rosine were not the young ladies of the + family. I do not remember to have seen any husband, however master of + his house in other respects, daring enough to displace a favourite + animal, even though it occupied the only vacant fauteuil. +</p> +<p> + The entrance into Artois from Picardy, though confounded by the new + division, is sufficiently marked by a higher cultivation, and a more + fertile soil. The whole country we have passed is agreeable, but + uniform; the roads are good, and planted on each side with trees, mostly + elms, except here and there some rows of poplar or apple. The land is + all open, and sown in divisions of corn, carrots, potatoes, tobacco, and + poppies of which last they make a coarse kind of oil for the use of + painters. The country is entirely flat, and the view every where bounded + by woods interspersed with villages, whose little spires peeping through + the trees have a very pleasing effect. +</p> +<p> + The people of Artois are said to be highly superstitious, and we have + already passed a number of small chapels and crosses, erected by the road + side, and surrounded by tufts of trees. These are the inventions of a + mistaken piety; yet they are not entirely without their use, and I cannot + help regarding them with more complacence than a rigid Protestant might + think allowable. The weary traveller here finds shelter from a mid-day + sun, and solaces his mind while he reposes his body. The glittering + equipage rolls by—he recalls the painful steps he has past, anticipates + those which yet remain, and perhaps is tempted to repine; but when he + turns his eye on the cross of Him who has promised a recompence to the + sufferers of this world, he checks the sigh of envy, forgets the luxury + which excited it, and pursues his way with resignation. The Protestant + religion proscribes, and the character of the English renders + unnecessary, these sensible objects of devotion; but I have always been + of opinion, that the levity of the French in general would make them + incapable of persevering in a form of worship equally abstracted and + rational. The Spaniards, and even the Italians, might abolish their + crosses and images, and yet preserve their Christianity; but if the + French ceased to be bigots, they would become atheists. +</p> +<p> + This is a small fortified town, though not of strength to offer any + resistance to artillery. Its proximity to the frontier, and the dread of + the Austrians, make the inhabitants very patriotic. We were surrounded + by a great croud of people on our arrival, who had some suspicion that we + were emigrating; however, as soon as our passports were examined and + declared legal, they retired very peaceably. +</p> +<p> + The approach of the enemy keeps up the spirit of the people, and, + notwithstanding their dissatisfaction at the late events, they have not + yet felt the change of their government sufficiently to desire the + invasion of an Austrian army.—Every village, every cottage, hailed us + with the cry of Vive la nation! The cabaret invites you to drink beer a + la nation, and offers you lodging a la nation—the chandler's shop sells + you snuff and hair powder a la nation—and there are even patriotic + barbers whose signs inform you, that you may be shaved and have your + teeth drawn a la nation! These are acts of patriotism one cannot + reasonably object to; but the frequent and tedious examination of one's + passports by people who can't read, is not quite so inoffensive, and I + sometimes lose my patience. A very vigilant <i>Garde Nationale</i> yesterday, + after spelling my passport over for ten minutes, objected that it was not + a good one. I maintained that it was; and feeling a momentary importance + at the recollection of my country, added, in an assuring tone, <i>"Et + d'ailleurs je suis Anglaise et par consequent libre d'aller ou bon me + semble.</i>*" The man stared, but admitted my argument, and we passed on. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"Besides, I am a native of England, and, consequently, have a right + to go where I please." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + My room door is half open, and gives me a prospect into that of Mad. de + L____, which is on the opposite side of the passage. She has not yet put + on her cap, but her grey hair is profusely powdered; and, with no other + garments than a short under petticoat and a corset, she stands for the + edification of all who pass, putting on her rouge with a stick and a + bundle of cotton tied to the end of it.—All travellers agree in + describing great indelicacy to the French women; yet I have seen no + accounts which exaggerate it, and scarce any that have not been more + favourable than a strict adherence to truth might justify. This + inattractive part of the female national character is not confined to the + lower or middling classes of life; and an English woman is as likely to + be put to the blush in the boudoir of a Marquise, as in the shop of the + Grisette, which serves also for her dressing-room. +</p> +<p> + If I am not too idle, or too much amused, you will soon be informed of my + arrival at Arras; but though I should neglect to write, be persuaded I + shall never cease to be, with affection and esteem, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_15"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, August, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The appearance of Arras is not busy in proportion to its population, + because its population is not equal to its extent; and as it is a large, + without being a commercial, town, it rather offers a view of the tranquil + enjoyment of wealth, than of the bustle and activity by which it is + procured. The streets are mostly narrow and ill paved, and the shops + look heavy and mean; but the hotels, which chiefly occupy the low town, + are large and numerous. What is called la Petite Place, is really very + large, and small only in comparison with the great one, which, I believe, + is the largest in France. It is, indeed, an immense quadrangle—the + houses are in the Spanish form, and it has an arcade all round it. The + Spaniards, by whom it was built, forgot, probably, that this kind of + shelter would not be so desirable here as in their own climate. The + manufacture of tapestry, which a single line of Shakespeare has + immortalized, and associated with the mirthful image of his fat Knight, + has fallen into decay. The manufacturers of linen and woollen are but + inconsiderable; and one, which existed till lately, of a very durable + porcelain, is totally neglected. The principal article of commerce is + lace, which is made here in great quantities. The people of all ages, + from five years old to seventy, are employed in this delicate fabrick. + In fine weather you will see whole streets lined with females, each with + her cushion on her lap. The people of Arras are uncommonly dirty, and + the lacemakers do not in this matter differ from their fellow-citizens; + yet at the door of a house, which, but for the surrounding ones, you + would suppose the common receptacle of all the filth in the vicinage, is + often seated a female artizan, whose fingers are forming a point of + unblemished whiteness. It is inconceivable how fast the bobbins move + under their hands; and they seem to bestow so little attention on their + work, that it looks more like the amusement of idleness than an effort of + industry. I am no judge of the arguments of philosophers and politicians + for and against the use of luxury in a state; but if it be allowable at + all, much may be said in favour of this pleasing article of it. Children + may be taught to make it at a very early age, and they can work at home + under the inspection of their parents, which is certainly preferable to + crouding them together in manufactories, where their health is injured, + and their morals are corrupted. +</p> +<p> + By requiring no more implements than about five shillings will purchase, + a lacemaker is not dependent on the shopkeeper, nor the head of a + manufactory. All who choose to work have it in their own power, and can + dispose of the produce of their labour, without being at the mercy of an + avaricious employer; for though a tolerable good workwoman can gain a + decent livelihood by selling to the shops, yet the profit of the retailer + is so great, that if he rejected a piece of lace, or refused to give a + reasonable price for it, a certain sale would be found with the + individual consumer: and it is a proof of the independence of this + employ, that no one will at present dispose of their work for paper, and + it still continues to be paid for in money. Another argument in favour + of encouraging lace-making is, that it cannot be usurped by men: you may + have men-milliners, men-mantuamakers, and even ladies' valets, but you + cannot well fashion the clumsy and inflexible fingers of man to + lace-making. We import great quantities of lace from this country, yet + I imagine we might, by attention, be enabled to supply other countries, + instead of purchasing abroad ourselves. The art of spinning is daily + improving in England; and if thread sufficiently fine can be + manufactured, there is no reason why we should not equal our neighbours + in the beauty of this article. The hands of English women are more + delicate than those of the French; and our climate is much the same as + that of Brussels, Arras, Lisle, &c. where the finest lace is made. +</p> +<p> + The population of Arras is estimated at about twenty-five thousand souls, + though many people tell me it is greater. It has, however, been lately + much thinned by emigration, suppression of convents, and the decline of + trade, occasioned by the absence of so many rich inhabitants.—The + Jacobins are here become very formidable: they have taken possession of a + church for their meetings, and, from being the ridicule, are become the + terror of all moderate people. +</p> +<p> + Yesterday was appointed for taking the new oath of liberty and equality. + I did not see the ceremony, as the town was in much confusion, and it was + deemed unsafe to be from home. I understand it was attended only by the + very refuse of the people, and that, as a gallanterie analogue, the + President of the department gave his arm to Madame Duchene, who sells + apples in a cellar, and is Presidente of the Jacobin club. It is, + however, reported to-day, that she is in disgrace with the society for + her condescension; and her parading the town with a man of forty thousand + livres a year is thought to be too great a compliment to the aristocracy + of riches; so that Mons. Le President's political gallantry has availed + him nothing. He has debased and made himself the ridicule of the + Aristocrates and Constitutionalists, without paying his court, as he + intended, to the popular faction. I would always wish it to happen so to + those who offer up incense to the mob. As human beings, as one's fellow + creatures, the poor and uninformed have a claim to our affection and + benevolence, but when they become legislators, they are absurd and + contemptible tyrants.—<i>A propos</i>—we were obliged to acknowledge this new + sovereignty by illuminating the house on the occasion; and this was not + ordered by nocturnal vociferation as in England, but by a regular command + from an officer deputed for that purpose. +</p> +<p> + I am concerned to see the people accustomed to take a number of + incompatible oaths with indifference: it neither will nor can come to any + good; and I am ready to exclaim with Juliet—"Swear not at all." Or, if + ye must swear, quarrel not with the Pope, that your consciences may at + least be relieved by dispensations and indulgences. +</p> +<p> + To-morrow we go to Lisle, notwithstanding the report that it has already + been summoned to surrender. You will scarcely suppose it possible, yet + we find it difficult to learn the certainty of this, at the distance of + only thirty miles: but communication is much less frequent and easy here + than in England. I am not one of those "unfortunate women who delight in + war;" and, perhaps, the sight of this place, so famous for its + fortifications, will not be very amusing to me, nor furnish much matter + of communication for my friends; but I shall write, if it be only to + assure you that I am not made prize of by the Austrians. Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_16"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle, August, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You restless islanders, who are continually racking imagination to + perfect the art of moving from one place to another, and who can drop + asleep in a carriage and wake at an hundred mile distance, have no notion + of all the difficulties of a day's journey here. In the first place, all + the horses of private persons have been taken for the use of the army, + and those for hire are constantly employed in going to the camp—hence, + there is a difficulty in procuring horses. Then a French carriage is + never in order, and in France a job is not to be done just when you want + it—so that there is often a difficulty in finding vehicles. Then there + is the difficulty of passports, and the difficulty of gates, if you want + to depart early. Then the difficulties of patching harness on the road, + and, above all, the inflexible <i>sang froid</i> of drivers. All these things + considered, you will not wonder that we came here a day after we + intended, and arrived at night, when we ought to have arrived at noon. + —The carriage wanted a trifling repair, and we could get neither + passports nor horses. The horses were gone to the army—the municipality + to the club—and the blacksmith was employed at the barracks in making a + patriotic harangue to the soldiers.—But we at length surmounted all + these obstacles, and reached this place last night. +</p> +<p> + The road between Arras and Lisle is equally rich with that we before + passed, but is much more diversified. The plain of Lens is not such a + scene of fertility, that one forgets it has once been that of war and + carnage. We endeavoured to learn in the town whereabouts the column was + erected that commemmorates that famous battle, [1648.] but no one seemed + to know any thing of the matter. One who, we flattered ourselves, looked + more intelligent than the rest, and whom we supposed might be an + attorney, upon being asked for this spot,—(where, added Mr. de ____, by + way of assisting his memory, <i>"le Prince de Conde s'est battu si bien,"</i>) + —replied, <i>"Pour la bataille je n'en sais rien, mais pour le Prince de + Conde il y a deja quelque tems qu'il est emigre—on le dit a Coblentz."</i>* + After this we thought it in vain to make any farther enquiry, and + continued our walk about the town. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"Where the Prince of Conde fought so gallantly."—"As to the battle + I know nothing about the matter; but for the Prince of Conde he + emigrated some time since—they say he is at Coblentz." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Mr. P____, who, according to French custom, had not breakfasted, took a + fancy to stop at a baker's shop and buy a roll. The man bestowed so much + more civility on us than our two sols were worth, that I observed, on + quitting the shop, I was sure he must be an Aristocrate. Mr. P____, who + is a warm Constitutionalist, disputed the justice of my inference, and we + agreed to return, and learn the baker's political principles. After + asking for more rolls, we accosted him with the usual phrase, "Et vous, + Monsieur, vous etes bon patriote?"—<i>"Ah, mon Dieu, oui,</i> (replied he,) + <i>il faut bien l'etre a present."</i>* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"And you, Sir, are without doubt, a good patriot?"—"Oh Lord, Sir, + yes; one's obliged to be so, now-a-days." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Mr. P____ admitted the man's tone of voice and countenance as good + evidence, and acknowledged I was right.—It is certain that the French + have taken it into their heads, that coarseness of manners is a necessary + consequence of liberty, and that there is a kind of leze nation in being + too civil; so that, in general, I think I can discover the principles of + shopkeepers, even without the indications of a melancholy mien at the + assignats, or lamentations on the times. +</p> +<p> + The new doctrine of primeval equality has already made some progress. At + a small inn at Carvin, where, upon the assurance that they had every + thing in the world, we stopped to dine, on my observing they had laid + more covers than were necessary, the woman answered, "Et les domestiques, + ne dinent ils pas?"—"And, pray, are the servants to have no dinner?" +</p> +<p> + We told her not with us, and the plates were taken away; but we heard her + muttering in the kitchen, that she believed we were aristocrates going to + emigrate. She might imagine also that we were difficult to satisfy, for + we found it impossible to dine, and left the house hungry, + notwithstanding there was "every thing in the world" in it. +</p> +<p> + On the road between Carvin and Lisle we saw Dumouriez, who is going to + take the command of the army, and has now been visiting the camp of + Maulde. He appears to be under the middle size, about fifty years of + age, with a brown complexion, dark eyes, and an animated countenance. He + was not originally distinguished either by birth or fortune, and has + arrived at his present situation by a concurrence of fortuitous + circumstances, by great and various talents, much address, and a spirit + of intrigue. He is now supported by the prevailing party; and, I + confess, I could not regard with much complacence a man, whom the + machinations of the Jacobins had forced into the ministry, and whose + hypocritical and affected resignation has contributed to deceive the + people, and ruin the King. +</p> +<p> + Lisle has all the air of a great town, and the mixture of commercial + industry and military occupation gives it a very gay and populous + appearance. The Lillois are highly patriotic, highly incensed against + the Austrians, and regard the approaching siege with more contempt than + apprehension. I asked the servant who was making my bed this morning, + how far the enemy was off. <i>"Une lieue et demie, ou deux lieues, a moins + qu'ils ne soient plus avances depuis hier,"</i>* repled she, with the utmost + indifference.—I own, I did not much approve of such a vicinage, and a + view of the fortifications (which did not make the less impression, + because I did not understand them,) was absolutely necessary to raise my + drooping courage. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"A league and a half, or two leagues; unless, indeed, they have + advanced since yesterday." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This morning was dedicated to visiting the churches, citadel, and + Collisee (a place of amusement in the manner of our Vauxhall); but all + these things have been so often described by much abler pens, that I + cannot modestly pretend to add any thing on the subject. +</p> +<p> + In the evening we were at the theatre, which is large and handsome; and + the constant residence of a numerous garrison enables it to entertain a + very good set of performers:—their operas in particular are extremely + well got up. I saw Zemire et Azor given better than at Drury Lane.—In + the farce, which was called Le Francois a Londres, was introduced a + character they called that of an Englishman, (Jack Roastbeef,) who pays + his addresses to a nobleman's daughter, in a box coate, a large hat + slouched over his eyes, and an oaken trowel in his hand—in short, the + whole figure exactly resembling that of a watchman. His conversation is + gross and sarcastic, interlarded with oaths, or relieved by fits of + sullen taciturnity—such a lover as one may suppose, though rich, and the + choice of the lady's father, makes no impression; and the author has + flattered the national vanity by making the heroine give the preference + to a French marquis. Now there is no doubt but nine-tenths of the + audience thought this a good portraiture of the English character, and + enjoyed it with all the satisfaction of conscious superiority.—The + ignorance that prevails with regard to our manners and customs, among a + people so near us, is surprizing. It is true, that the noblesse who have + visited England with proper recommendations, and have been introduced to + the best society, do us justice: the men of letters also, who, from party + motives, extol every thing English, have done us perhaps more than + justice. But I speak of the French in general; not the lower classes + only, but the gentry of the provinces, and even those who in other + respects have pretensions to information. The fact is, living in England + is expensive: a Frenchman, whose income here supports him as a gentleman, + goes over and finds all his habits of oeconomy insufficient to keep him + from exceeding the limits he had prescribed to himself. His decent + lodging alone costs him a great part of his revenue, and obliges him to + be strictly parsimonious of the rest. This drives him to associate + chiefly with his own countrymen, to dine at obscure coffee-houses, and + pay his court to opera-dancers. He sees, indeed, our theatres, our + public walks, the outside of our palaces, and the inside of churches: but + this gives him no idea of the manners of the people in superior life, or + even of easy fortune. Thus he goes home, and asserts to his untravelled + countrymen, that our King and nobility are ill lodged, our churches mean, + and that the English are barbarians, who dine without soup, use no + napkin, and eat with their knives.—I have heard a gentleman of some + respectability here observe, that our usual dinner was an immense joint + of meat half drest, and a dish of vegetables scarcely drest at all.—Upon + questioning him, I discovered he had lodged in St. Martin's Lane, had + likewise boarded at a country attorney's of the lowest class, and dined + at an ordinary at Margate. +</p> +<p> + Some few weeks ago the Marquis de P____ set out from Paris in the + diligence, and accompanied by his servant, with a design of emigrating. + Their only fellow-traveller was an Englishman, whom they frequently + addressed, and endeavoured to enter into conversation with; but he either + remained silent, or gave them to understand he was entirely ignorant of + the language. Under this persuasion the Marquis and his valet freely + discussed their affairs, arranged their plan of emigration, and + expressed, with little ceremony, their political opinions.—At the end of + their journey they were denounced by their companion, and conducted to + prison. The magistrate who took the information mentioned the + circumstance when I happened to be present. Indignant at such an act in + an Englishman, I enquired his name. You will judge of my surprize, when + he assured me it was the English Ambassador. I observed to him, that it + was not common for our Ambassadors to travel in stage-coaches: this, he + said, he knew; but that having reason to suspect the Marquis, Monsieur + l'Ambassadeur had had the goodness to have him watched, and had taken + this journey on purpose to detect him. It was not without much + reasoning, and the evidence of a lady who had been in England long enough + to know the impossibility of such a thing, that I would justify Lord + G____ from this piece of complaisance to the Jacobins, and convince the + worthy magistrate he had been imposed upon: yet this man is the Professor + of Eloquence at a college, is the oracle of the Jacobin society; and may + perhaps become a member of the Convention. This seems so almost + incredibly absurd, that I should fear to repeat it, were it not known to + many besides myself; but I think I may venture to pronounce, from my own + observation, and that of others, whose judgement, and occasions of + exercising it, give weight to their opinions, that the generality of the + French who have read a little are mere pedants, nearly unacquainted with + modern nations, their commercial and political relation, their internal + laws, characters, or manners. Their studies are chiefly confined to + Rollin and Plutarch, the deistical works of Voltaire, and the visionary + politics of Jean Jaques. Hence they amuse their hearers with allusions + to Caesar and Lycurgus, the Rubicon, and Thermopylae. Hence they pretend + to be too enlightened for belief, and despise all governments not founded + on the Contrat Social, or the Profession de Foi.—They are an age removed + from the useful literature and general information of the middle classes + in their own country—they talk familiarly of Sparta and Lacedemon, and + have about the same idea of Russia as they have of Caffraria. Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_17"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle. +</h2> +<p> + "Married to another, and that before those shoes were old with which she + followed my poor father to the grave."—There is scarcely any + circumstance, or situation, in which, if one's memory were good, one + should not be mentally quoting Shakespeare. I have just now been + whispering the above, as I passed the altar of liberty, which still + remains on the Grande Place. But "a month, a little month," ago, on this + altar the French swore to maintain the constitution, and to be faithful + to the law and the King; yet this constitution is no more, the laws are + violated, the King is dethroned, and the altar is now only a monument of + levity and perjury, which they have not feeling enough to remove. +</p> +<p> + The Austrians are daily expected to besiege this place, and they may + destroy, but they will not take it. I do not, as you may suppose, + venture to speak so decisively in a military point of view—I know as + little as possible of the excellencies of Vauban, or the adequacy of the + garrison; but I draw my inference from the spirit of enthusiasm which + prevails among the inhabitants of every class—every individual seems to + partake of it: the streets resound with patriotic acclamations, patriotic + songs, war, and defiance.—Nothing can be more animating than the + theatre. Every allusion to the Austrians, every song or sentence, + expressive of determined resistance, is followed by bursts of assent, + easily distinguishable not to be the effort of party, but the sentiment + of the people in general. There are, doubtless, here, as in all other + places, party dissensions; but the threatened siege seems at least to + have united all for their common defence: they know that a bomb makes no + distinction between Feuillans, Jacobins, or Aristocrates, and neither are + so anxious to destroy the other, when it is only to be done at such a + risk to themselves. I am even willing to hope that something better than + mere selfishness has a share in their uniting to preserve one of the + finest, and, in every sense, one of the most interesting, towns in + France. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_18"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle, Saturday. +</h2> +<p> + We are just on our departure for Arras, where, I fear, we shall scarcely + arrive before the gates are shut. We have been detained here much beyond + our time, by a circumstance infinitely shocking, though, in fact, not + properly a subject of regret. One of the assassins of General Dillon was + this morning guillotined before the hotel where we are lodged.—I did + not, as you will conclude, see the operation; but the mere circumstance + of knowing the moment it was performed, and being so near it, has much + unhinged me. The man, however, deserved his fate, and such an example + was particularly necessary at this time, when we are without a + government, and the laws are relaxed. The mere privation of life is, + perhaps, more quickly effected by this instrument than by any other + means; but when we recollect that the preparation for, and apprehension + of, death, constitute its greatest terrors; that a human hand must give + motion to the Guillotine as well as to the axe; and that either accustoms + a people, already sanguinary, to the sight of blood, I think little is + gained by the invention. It was imagined by a Mons. Guillotin, a + physician of Paris, and member of the Constituent Assembly. The original + design seems not so much to spare pain to the criminal, as obloquy to the + executioner. I, however, perceive little difference between a man's + directing a Guillotine, or tying a rope; and I believe the people are of + the same opinion. They will never see any thing but a <i>bourreau</i> + [executioner] in the man whose province it is to execute the sentence of + the laws, whatever name he may be called by, or whatever instrument he + may make use of.—I have concluded this letter with a very unpleasant + subject, but my pen is guided by circumstances, and I do not invent, but + communicate.—Adieu. Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_19"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September 1, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Had I been accompanied by an antiquary this morning, his sensibility + would have been severely exercised; for even I, whose respect for + antiquity is not scientific, could not help lamenting the modern rage for + devastation which has seized the French. They are removing all "the + time-honoured figures" of the cathedral, and painting its massive + supporters in the style of a ball-room. The elaborate uncouthness of + ancient sculpture is not, indeed, very beautiful; yet I have often + fancied there was something more simply pathetic in the aukward effigy of + an hero kneeling amidst his trophies, or a regal pair with their + supplicating hands and surrounding offspring, than in the graceful + figures and poetic allegories of the modern artist. The humble intreaty + to the reader to "praye for the soule of the departed," is not very + elegant—yet it is better calculated to recall the wanderings of + morality, than the flattering epitaph, a Fame hovering in the air, or the + suspended wreath of the remunerating angel.—But I moralize in vain—the + rage of these new Goths is inexorable: they seem solicitous to destroy + every vestige of civilization, lest the people should remember they have + not always been barbarians. +</p> +<p> + After obtaining an order from the municipality, we went to see the + gardens and palace of the Bishop, who has emigrated. The garden has + nothing very remarkable, but is large and well laid out, according to the + old style. It forms a very agreeable walk, and, when the Bishop possest + it, was open for the enjoyment of the inhabitants, but it is now shut up + and in disorder. The house is plain, and substantially furnished, and + exhibits no appearance of unbecoming luxury. The whole is now the + property of the nation, and will soon be disposed of.—I could not help + feeling a sensation of melancholy as we walked over the apartments. + Every thing is marked in an inventory, just as left; and an air of + arrangement and residence leads one to reflect, that the owner did not + imagine at his departure he was quitting it perhaps for ever. I am not + partial to the original emigrants, yet much may be said for the Bishop of + Arras. He was pursued by ingratitude, and marked for persecution. The + Robespierres were young men whom he had taken from a mean state, had + educated, and patronized. The revolution gave them an opportunity of + displaying their talents, and their talents procured them popularity. + They became enemies to the clergy, because their patron was a Bishop; and + endeavoured to render their benefactor odious, because the world could + not forget, nor they forgive, how much they were indebted to him.—Vice + is not often passive; nor is there often a medium between gratitude for + benefits, and hatred to the author of them. A little mind is hurt by the + remembrance of obligation—begins by forgetting, and, not uncommonly, + ends by persecuting. +</p> +<p> + We dined and passed the afternoon from home to-day. After dinner our + hostess, as usual, proposed cards; and, as usual in French societies, + every one assented: we waited, however, some time, and no cards came— + till, at length, conversation-parties were formed, and they were no + longer thought of. I have since learned, from one of the young women of + the house, that the butler and two footmen had all betaken themselves to + clubs and Guinguettes,* and the cards, counters, &c. could not be + obtained. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Small public houses in the vicinity of large towns, where the + common people go on Sundays and festivals to dance and make merry. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This is another evil arising from the circumstances of the times. All + people of property have begun to bury their money and plate, and as the + servants are often unavoidably privy to it, they are become idle and + impertinent—they make a kind of commutation of diligence for fidelity, + and imagine that the observance of the one exempts them from the + necessity of the other. The clubs are a constant receptacle for + idleness; and servants who think proper to frequent them do it with very + little ceremony, knowing that few whom they serve would be imprudent + enough to discharge them for their patriotism in attending a Jacobin + society. Even servants who are not converts to the new principle cannot + resist the temptation of abusing a little the power which they acquire + from a knowledge of family affairs. Perhaps the effect of the revolution + has not, on the whole, been favourable to the morals of the lower class + of people; but this shall be the subject of discussion at some future + period, when I shall have had farther opportunities of judging. +</p> +<p> + We yesterday visited the Oratoire, a seminary for education, which is now + suppressed. The building is immense, and admirably calculated for the + purpose, but is already in a state of dilapidation; so that, I fear, by + the time the legislature has determined what system of instruction shall + be substituted for that which has been abolished, the children (as the + French are fond of examples from the ancients) will take their lessons, + like the Greeks, in the open air; and, in the mean while, become expert + in lying and thieving, like the Spartans. +</p> +<p> + The Superior of the house is an immoderate revolutionist, speaks English + very well, and is a great admirer of our party writers. In his room I + observed a vast quantity of English books, and on his chimney stood what + he called a patriotic clock, the dial of which was placed between two + pyramids, on which were inscribed the names of republican authors, and on + the top of one was that of our countryman, Mr. Thomas Paine—whom, by the + way, I understand you intended to exhibit in a much more conspicuous and + less tranquil situation. I assure you, though you are ungrateful on your + side of the water, he is in high repute here—his works are translated— + all the Jacobins who can read quote, and all who can't, admire him; and + possibly, at the very moment you are sentencing him to an installment in + the pillory, we may be awarding him a triumph.—Perhaps we are both + right. He deserves the pillory, from you for having endeavoured to + destroy a good constitution—and the French may with equal reason grant + him a triumph, as their constitution is likely to be so bad, that even + Mr. Thomas Paine's writings may make it better! +</p> +<p> + Our house is situated within view of a very pleasant public walk, where I + am daily amused with a sight of the recruits at their exercise. This is + not quite so regular a business as the drill in the Park. The exercise + is often interrupted by disputes between the officer and his eleves—some + are for turning to the right, others to the left, and the matter is not + unfrequently adjusted by each going the way that seemeth best unto + himself. The author of the <i>"Actes des Apotres"</i> [The Acts of the + Apostles] cites a Colonel who reprimanded one of his corps for walking + ill—<i>"Eh Dicentre,</i> (replied the man,) <i>comment veux tu que je marche + bien quand tu as fait mes souliers trop etroits."</i>* but this is no longer + a pleasantry—such circumstances are very common. A Colonel may often be + tailor to his own regiment, and a Captain operated on the heads of his + whole company, in his civil capacity, before he commands them in his + military one. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"And how the deuce can you expect me to march well, when you have + made my shoes too tight?" +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The walks I have just mentioned have been extremely beautiful, but a + great part of the trees have been cut down, and the ornamental parts + destroyed, since the revolution—I know not why, as they were open to the + poor as well as the rich, and were a great embellishment to the low town. + You may think it strange that I should be continually dating some + destruction from the aera of the revolution—that I speak of every thing + demolished, and of nothing replaced. But it is not my fault—"If freedom + grows destructive, I must paint it:" though I should tell you, that in + many streets where convents have been sold, houses are building with the + materials on the same site.—This is, however, not a work of the nation, + but of individuals, who have made their purchases cheap, and are + hastening to change the form of their property, lest some new revolution + should deprive them of it.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_20"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September. +</h2> +<p> + Nothing more powerfully excites the attention of a stranger on his first + arrival, than the number and wretchedness of the poor at Arras. In all + places poverty claims compulsion, but here compassion is accompanied by + horror—one dares not contemplate the object one commiserates, and + charity relieves with an averted eye. Perhaps with Him, who regards + equally the forlorn beggar stretched on the threshold, consumed by filth + and disease, and the blooming beauty who avoids while she succours him, + the offering of humanity scarcely expiates the involuntary disgust; yet + such is the weakness of our nature, that there exists a degree of misery + against which one's senses are not proof, and benevolence itself revolts + at the appearance of the poor of Arras.—These are not the cold and + fastidious reflections of an unfeeling mind—they are not made without + pain: nor have I often felt the want of riches and consequence so much as + in my incapacity to promote some means of permanent and substantial + remedy for the evils I have been describing. I have frequently enquired + the cause of this singular misery, but can only learn that it always has + been so. I fear it is, that the poor are without energy, and the rich + without generosity. The decay of manufactures since the last century + must have reduced many families to indigence. These have been able to + subsist on the refuse of luxury, but, too supine for exertion, they have + sought for nothing more; while the great, discharging their consciences + with the superfluity of what administered to their pride, fostered the + evil, instead of endeavouring to remedy it. But the benevolence of the + French is not often active, nor extensive; it is more frequently a + religious duty than a sentiment. They content themselves with affording + a mere existence to wretchedness; and are almost strangers to those + enlightened and generous efforts which act beyond the moment, and seek + not only to relieve poverty, but to banish it. Thus, through the frigid + and indolent charity of the rich, the misery which was at first + accidental is perpetuated, beggary and idleness become habitual, and are + transmitted, like more fortunate inheritances, from one generation to + another.—This is not a mere conjecture—I have listened to the histories + of many of these unhappy outcasts, who were more than thirty years old, + and they have all told me, they were born in the state in which I beheld + them, and that they did not remember to have heard that their parents + were in any other. The National Assembly profess to effectuate an entire + regeneration of the country, and to eradicate all evils, moral, physical, + and political. I heartily wish the numerous and miserable poor, with + which Arras abounds, may become one of the first objects of reform; and + that a nation which boasts itself the most polished, the most powerful, + and the most philosophic in the world, may not offer to the view so many + objects shocking to humanity. +</p> +<p> + The citadel of Arras is very strong, and, as I am told, the chef d'oeuvre + of Vauban; but placed with so little judgement, that the military call it + <i>la belle inutile</i> [the useless beauty]. It is now uninhabited, and + wears an appearance of desolation—the commandant and all the officers of + the ancient government having been forced to abandon it; their houses + also are much damaged, and the gardens entirely destroyed.—I never heard + that this popular commotion had any other motive than the general war of + the new doctrines on the old. +</p> +<p> + I am sorry to see that most of the volunteers who go to join the army are + either old men or boys, tempted by extraordinary pay and scarcity of + employ. A cobler who has been used to rear canary-birds for Mad. de + ____, brought us this morning all the birds he was possessed of, and told + us he was going to-morrow to the frontiers. We asked him why, at his + age, he should think of joining the army. He said, he had already + served, and that there were a few months unexpired of the time that would + entitle him to his pension.—"Yes; but in the mean while you may get + killed; and then of what service will your claim to a pension be?"— + <i>"N'ayez pas peur, Madame—Je me menagerai bien—on ne se bat pas pour ces + gueux la comme pour son Roi."</i>* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * "No fear of that, Madam—I'll take good care of myself: a man does + not fight for such beggarly rascals as these as he would for his + King." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + M. de ____ is just returned from the camp of Maulde, where he has been to + see his son. He says, there is great disorder and want of discipline, + and that by some means or other the common soldiers abound more in money, + and game higher, than their officers. There are two young women, + inhabitants of the town of St. Amand, who go constantly out on all + skirmishing parties, exercise daily with the men, and have killed several + of the enemy. They are both pretty—one only sixteen, the other a year + or two older. Mr. de ____ saw them as they were just returning from a + reconnoitring party. Perhaps I ought to have been ashamed after this + recital to decline an invitation from Mr. de R___'s son to dine with him + at the camp; but I cannot but feel that I am an extreme coward, and that + I should eat with no appetite in sight of an Austrian army. The very + idea of these modern Camillas terrifies me—their creation seems an error + of nature.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Their name was Fernig; they were natives of St. Amand, and of no + remarkable origin. They followed Dumouriez into Flanders, where + they signalized themselves greatly, and became Aides-de-Camp to that + General. At the time of his defection, one of them was shot by a + soldier, whose regiment she was endeavouring to gain over. Their + house having been razed by the Austrians at the beginning of the + war, was rebuilt at the expence of the nation; but, upon their + participation in Dumouriez' treachery, a second decree of the + Assembly again levelled it with the ground. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Our host, whose politeness is indefatigable, accompanied us a few days + ago to St. Eloy, a large and magnificent abbey, about six miles from + Arras. It is built on a terrace, which commands the surrounding country + as far as Douay; and I think I counted an hundred and fifty steps from + the house to the bottom of the garden, which is on a level with the road. + The cloisters are paved with marble, and the church neat and beautiful + beyond description. The iron work of the choir imitates flowers and + foliage with so much taste and delicacy, that (but for the colour) one + would rather suppose it to be soil, than any durable material.—The monks + still remain, and although the decree has passed for their suppression, + they cannot suppose it will take place. They are mostly old men, and, + though I am no friend to these institutions, they were so polite and + hospitable that I could not help wishing they were permitted, according + to the design of the first Assembly, to die in their habitations— + especially as the situation of St. Eloy renders the building useless for + any other purpose.—A friend of Mr. de ____ has a charming country-house + near the abbey, which he has been obliged to deny himself the enjoyment + of, during the greatest part of the summer; for whenever the family + return to Arras, their persons and their carriage are searched at the + gate, as strictly as though they were smugglers just arrived from the + coast, under the pretence that they may assist the religious of St. Eloy + in securing some of their property, previous to the final seizure. +</p> +<p> + I observe, in walking the streets here, that the common people still + retain much of the Spanish cast of features: the women are remarkably + plain, and appear still more so by wearing faals. The faal is about two + ells of black silk or stuff, which is hung, without taste or form, on the + head, and is extremely unbecoming: but it is worn only by the lower + class, or by the aged and devotees. +</p> +<p> + I am a very voluminous correspondent, but if I tire you, it is a proper + punishment for your insincerity in desiring me to continue so. I have + heard of a governor of one of our West India islands who was universally + detested by its inhabitants, but who, on going to England, found no + difficulty in procuring addresses expressive of approbation and esteem. + The consequence was, he came back and continued governor for life.—Do + you make the application of my anecdote, and I shall persevere in + scribbling.—Every Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_21"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras. +</h2> +<p> + It is not fashionable at present to frequent any public place; but as we + are strangers, and of no party, we often pass our evenings at the + theatre. I am fond of it—not so much on account of the representation, + as of the opportunity which it affords for observing the dispositions of + the people, and the bias intended to be given them. The stage is now + become a kind of political school, where the people are taught hatred to + Kings, Nobility, and Clergy, according as the persecution of the moment + requires; and, I think, one may often judge from new pieces the meditated + sacrifice. A year ago, all the sad catalogue of human errors were + personified in Counts and Marquisses; they were not represented as + individuals whom wealth and power had made something too proud, and much + too luxurious, but as an order of monsters, whose existence, + independently of their characters, was a crime, and whose hereditary + possessions alone implied a guilt, not to be expiated but by the + forfeiture of them. This, you will say, was not very judicious; and that + by establishing a sort of incompatibility of virtue with titular + distinctions, the odium was transferred from the living to the dead—from + those who possessed these distinctions to those who instituted them. + But, unfortunately, the French were disposed to find their noblesse + culpable, and to reject every thing which tended to excuse or favour + them. The hauteur of the noblesse acted as a fatal equivalent to every + other crime; and many, who did not credit other imputations, rejoiced in + the humiliation of their pride. The people, the rich merchants, and even + the lesser gentry, all eagerly concurred in the destruction of an order + that had disdained or excluded them; and, perhaps, of all the innovations + which have taken place, the abolition of rank has excited the least + interest. +</p> +<p> + It is now less necessary to blacken the noblesse, and the compositions of + the day are directed against the Throne, the Clergy, and Monastic Orders. + All the tyrants of past ages are brought from the shelves of faction and + pedantry, and assimilated to the mild and circumscribed monarchs of + modern Europe. The doctrine of popular sovereignty is artfully + instilled, and the people are stimulated to exert a power which they must + implicitly delegate to those who have duped and misled them. The frenzy + of a mob is represented as the sublimest effort of patriotism; and + ambition and revenge, usurping the title of national justice, immolate + their victims with applause. The tendency of such pieces is too obvious; + and they may, perhaps, succeed in familiarizing the minds of the people + to events which, a few months ago, would have filled them with horror. + There are also numerous theatrical exhibitions, preparatory to the + removal of the nuns from their convents, and to the banishment of the + priests. Ancient prejudices are not yet obliterated, and I believe some + pains have been taken to justify these persecutions by calumny. The + history of our dissolution of the monasteries has been ransacked for + scandal, and the bigotry and biases of all countries are reduced into + abstracts, and exposed on the stage. The most implacable revenge, the + most refined malice, the extremes of avarice and cruelty, are wrought + into tragedies, and displayed as acting under the mask of religion and + the impunity of a cloister; while operas and farces, with ridicule still + more successful, exhibit convents as the abode of licentiousness, + intrigue, and superstition. +</p> +<p> + These efforts have been sufficiently successful—not from the merit of + the pieces, but from the novelty of the subject. The people in general + were strangers to the interior of convents: they beheld them with that + kind of respect which is usually produced in uninformed minds by mystery + and prohibition. Even the monastic habit was sacred from dramatic uses; + so that a representation of cloisters, monks, and nuns, their costumes + and manners, never fails to attract the multitude.—But the same cause + which renders them curious, makes them credulous. Those who have seen no + farther than the Grille, and those who have been educated in convents, + are equally unqualified to judge of the lives of the religious; and their + minds, having no internal conviction or knowledge of the truth, easily + become the converts of slander and falsehood. +</p> +<p> + I cannot help thinking, that there is something mean and cruel in this + procedure. If policy demand the sacrifice, it does not require that the + victims should be rendered odious; and if it be necessary to dispossess + them of their habitations, they ought not, at the moment they are thrown + upon the world, to be painted as monsters unworthy of its pity or + protection. It is the cowardice of the assassin, who murders before he + dares to rob. +</p> +<p> + This custom of making public amusements subservient to party, has, I + doubt not, much contributed to the destruction of all against whom it has + been employed; and theatrical calumny seems to be always the harbinger of + approaching ruin to its object; yet this is not the greatest evil which + may arise from these insidious politics—they are equally unfavourable + both to the morals and taste of the people; the first are injured beyond + calculation, and the latter corrupted beyond amendment. The orders of + society, which formerly inspired respect or veneration, are now debased + and exploded; and mankind, once taught to see nothing but vice and + hypocrisy in those whom they had been accustomed to regard as models of + virtue, are easily led to doubt the very existence of virtue itself: they + know not where to turn for either instruction or example; no prospect is + offered to them but the dreary and uncomfortable view of general + depravity; and the individual is no longer encouraged to struggle with + vicious propensities, when he concludes them irresistibly inherent in his + nature. Perhaps it was not possible to imagine principles at once so + seductive and ruinous as those now disseminated. How are the morals of + the people to resist a doctrine which teaches them that the rich only can + be criminal, and that poverty is a substitute for virtue—that wealth is + holden by the sufferance of those who do not possess it—and that he who + is the frequenter of a club, or the applauder of a party, is exempt from + the duties of his station, and has a right to insult and oppress his + fellow citizens? All the weaknesses of humanity are flattered and called + to the aid of this pernicious system of revolutionary ethics; and if + France yet continue in a state of civilization, it is because Providence + has not yet abandoned her to the influence of such a system. +</p> +<p> + Taste is, I repeat it, as little a gainer by the revolution as morals. + The pieces which were best calculated to form and refine the minds of the + people, all abound with maxims of loyalty, with respect for religion, and + the subordinations of civil society. These are all prohibited; and are + replaced by fustian declamations, tending to promote anarchy and discord + —by vulgar and immoral farces, and insidious and flattering panegyrics + on the vices of low life. No drama can succeed that is not supported by + the faction; and this support is to be procured only by vilifying the + Throne, the Clergy, and Noblesse. This is a succedaneum for literary + merit, and those who disapprove are menaced into silence; while the + multitude, who do not judge but imitate, applaud with their leaders—and + thus all their ideas become vitiated, and imbibe the corruption of their + favourite amusement. +</p> +<p> + I have dwelt on this subject longer than I intended; but as I would not + be supposed prejudiced nor precipitate in my assertions, I will, by the + first occasion, send you some of the most popular farces and tragedies: + you may then decide yourself upon the tendency; and, by comparing the + dispositions of the French before, and within, the last two years, you + may also determine whether or not my conclusions are warranted by fact. + Adieu.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_22"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras. +</h2> +<p> + Our countrymen who visit France for the first time—their imaginations + filled with the epithets which the vanity of one nation has appropriated, + and the indulgence of the other sanctioned—are astonished to find this + "land of elegance," this refined people, extremely inferior to the + English in all the arts that minister to the comfort and accommodation of + life. They are surprized to feel themselves starved by the intrusion of + all the winds of heaven, or smothered by volumes of smoke—that no lock + will either open or shut—that the drawers are all immoveable—and that + neither chairs nor tables can be preserved in equilibrium. In vain do + they inquire for a thousand conveniences which to them seem + indispensible; they are not to be procured, or even their use is unknown: + till at length, after a residence in a score of houses, in all of which + they observe the same deficiencies, they begin to grow sceptical, to + doubt the pretended superiority of France, and, perhaps for the first + time, do justice to their own unassuming country. It must however, be + confessed, that if the chimnies smoke, they are usually surrounded by + marble—that the unstable chair is often covered with silk—and that if a + room be cold, it is plentifully decked with gilding, pictures, and + glasses.—In short, a French house is generally more showy than + convenient, and seldom conveys that idea of domestic comfort which + constitutes the luxury of an Englishman. +</p> +<p> + I observe, that the most prevailing ornaments here are family portraits: + almost every dwelling, even among the lower kind of tradesmen, is peopled + with these ensigns of vanity; and the painters employed on these + occasions, however deficient in other requisites of their art, seem to + have an unfortunate knack at preserving likenesses. Heads powdered even + whiter than the originals, laced waistcoats, enormous lappets, and + countenances all ingeniously disposed so as to smile at each other, + encumber the wainscot, and distress the unlucky visitor, who is obliged + to bear testimony to the resemblance. When one sees whole rooms filled + with these figures, one cannot help reflecting on the goodness of + Providence, which thus distributes self-love, in proportion as it denies + those gifts that excite the admiration of others. +</p> +<p> + You must not understand what I have said on the furniture of French + houses as applying to those of the nobility or people of extraordinary + fortunes, because they are enabled to add the conveniences of other + countries to the luxuries of their own. Yet even these, in my opinion, + have not the uniform elegance of an English habitation: there is always + some disparity between the workmanship and the materials—some mixture of + splendour and clumsiness, and a want of what the painters call keeping; + but the houses of the gentry, the lesser noblesse, and merchants, are, + for the most part, as I have described—-abounding in silk, marble, + glasses, and pictures; but ill finished, dirty, and deficient in articles + of real use.—I should, however, notice, that genteel people are cleaner + here than in the interior parts of the kingdom. The floors are in + general of oak, or sometimes of brick; but they are always rubbed bright, + and have not that filthy appearance which so often disgusts one in French + houses. +</p> +<p> + The heads of the lower classes of people are much disturbed by these new + principles of universal equality. We enquired of a man we saw near a + coach this morning if it was hired. "Monsieur—(quoth he—then checking + himself suddenly,)—no, I forgot, I ought not to say Monsieur, for they + tell me I am equal to any body in the world: yet, after all, I know not + well if this may be true; and as I have drunk out all I am worth, I + believe I had better go home and begin work again to-morrow." This new + disciple of equality had, indeed, all the appearance of having sacrificed + to the success of the cause, and was then recovering from a dream of + greatness which he told us had lasted two days. +</p> +<p> + Since the day of taking the new oath we have met many equally elevated, + though less civil. Some are undoubtedly paid, but others will distress + their families for weeks by this celebration of their new discoveries, + and must, after all, like our intoxicated philosopher, be obliged to + return "to work again to-morrow." +</p> +<p> + I must now bid you adieu—and, in doing so, naturally turn my thoughts to + that country where the rights of the people consist not of sterile and + metaphysic declarations, but of real defence and protection. May they + for ever remain uninterrupted by the devastating chimeras of their + neighbours; and if they seek reform, may it be moderate and permanent, + acceded to reason, and not extorted by violence!—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_23"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September 2, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We were so much alarmed at the theatre on Thursday, that I believe we + shall not venture again to amuse ourselves at the risk of a similar + occurrence. About the middle of the piece, a violent outcry began from + all parts of the house, and seemed to be directed against our box; and I + perceived Madame Duchene, the Presidente of the Jacobins, heading the + legions of Paradise with peculiar animation. You may imagine we were not + a little terrified. I anxiously examined the dress of myself and my + companions, and observing nothing that could offend the affected + simplicity of the times, prepared to quit the house. A friendly voice, + however, exerting itself above the clamour, informed us that the + offensive objects were a cloak and a shawl which hung over the front of + the box.—You will scarcely suppose such grossness possible among a + civilized people; but the fact is, our friends are of the proscribed + class, and we were insulted because in their society.—I have before + noticed, that the guards which were stationed in the theatre before the + revolution are now removed, and a municipal officer, made conspicuous by + his scarf, is placed in the middle front box, and, in case of any tumult, + is empowered to call in the military to his assistance. +</p> +<p> + We have this morning been visiting two objects, which exhibit this + country in very different points of view—as the seat of wealth, and the + abode of poverty. The first is the abbey of St. Vaast, a most superb + pile, now inhabited by monks of various orders, but who are preparing to + quit it, in obedience to the late decrees. Nothing impresses one with a + stronger idea of the influence of the Clergy, than these splendid + edifices. We see them reared amidst the solitude of deserts, and in the + gaiety and misery of cities; and while they cheer the one and embellish + the other, they exhibit, in both, monuments of indefatigable labour and + immense wealth.—The facade of St. Vaast is simple and striking, and the + cloisters and every other part of the building are extremely handsome. + The library is supposed to be the finest in France, except the King's, + but is now under the seal of the nation. A young monk, who was our + Cicerone, told us he was sorry it was not in his power to show it. <i>"Et + nous, Monsieur, nous sommes faches aussi."</i>—["And we are not less sorry + than yourself, Sir."] +</p> +<p> + Thus, with the aid of significant looks, and gestures of disapprobation, + an exchange of sentiments took place, without a single expression of + treasonable import: both parties understood perfectly well, that in + regretting that the library was inaccessible, each included all the + circumstances which attended it.—A new church was building in a style + worthy of the convent—I think, near four hundred feet long; but it was + discontinued at the suppression of the religious orders, and will now, of + course, never be finished. +</p> +<p> + From this abode of learned case and pious indolence Mr. de ____ conducted + us to the Mont de Piete, a national institution for lending money to the + poor on pledges, (at a moderate interest,) which, if not redeemed within + a year, are sold by auction, and the overplus, if there remain any, after + deducting the interest, is given to the owner of the pledge. Thousands + of small packets are deposited here, which, to the eye of affluence, + might seem the very refuse of beggary itself.—I could not reflect + without an heart-ache, on the distress of the individual, thus driven to + relinquish his last covering, braving cold to satisfy hunger, and + accumulating wretchedness by momentary relief. I saw, in a lower room, + groupes of unfortunate beings, depriving themselves of different parts of + their apparel, and watching with solicitude the arbitrary valuations; + others exchanging some article of necessity for one of a still greater— + some in a state of intoxication, uttering execrations of despair; and all + exhibiting a picture of human nature depraved and miserable.—While I was + viewing this scene, I recalled the magnificent building we had just left, + and my first emotions were those of regret and censure. When we only + feel, and have not leisure to reflect, we are indignant that vast sums + should be expended on sumptuous edifices, and that the poor should live + in vice and want; yet the erection of St. Vaast must have maintained + great numbers of industrious hands; and perhaps the revenues of the abbey + may not, under its new possessors, be so well employed. When the + offerings and the tributes to religion are the support of the industrious + poor, it is their best appropriation; and he who gives labour for a day, + is a more useful benefactor than he who maintains in idleness for two. + —I could not help wishing that the poor might no longer be tempted by + the facility of a resource, which perhaps, in most instances, only + increases their distress.—It is an injudicious expedient to palliate an + evil, which great national works, and the encouragement of industry and + manufactures, might eradicate.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * In times of public commotion people frequently send their valuable + effects to the Mont de Piete, not only as being secure by its + strength, but as it is respected by the people, who are interested + in its preservation. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —With these reflections I concluded mental peace with the monks of St. + Vaast, and would, had it depended upon me, have readily comprized the + finishing their great church in the treaty. +</p> +<p> + The Primary Assemblies have already taken place in this department. We + happened to enter a church while the young Robespierre was haranguing to + an audience, very little respectable either in numbers or appearance. + They were, however, sufficiently unanimous, and made up in noisy applause + what they wanted in other respects. If the electors and elected of other + departments be of the same complexion with those of Arras, the new + Assembly will not, in any respect, be preferable to the old one. I have + reproached many of the people of this place, who, from their education + and property, have a right to take an interest in the public affairs, + with thus suffering themselves to be represented by the most desperate + and worthless individuals of the town. Their defence is, that they are + insulted and overpowered if they attend the popular meetings, and by + electing <i>"les gueux et les scelerats pour deputes,"</i>* they send them to + Paris, and secure their own local tranquillity. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * The scrubs and scoundrels for deputies. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —The first of these assertions is but too true, yet I cannot but think + the second a very dangerous experiment. They remove these turbulent and + needy adventurers from the direction of a club to that of government, and + procure a partial relief by contributing to the general ruin. +</p> +<p> + Paris is said to be in extreme fermentation, and we are in some anxiety + for our friend M. P____, who was to go there from Montmorency last week. + I shall not close my letter till I have heard from him. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_24"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September 4. +</h2> +<p> + I resume my pen after a sleepless night, and with an oppression of mind + not to be described. Paris is the scene of proscription and massacres. + The prisoners, the clergy, the noblesse, all that are supposed inimical + to public faction, or the objects of private revenge, are sacrificed + without mercy. We are here in the utmost terror and consternation—we + know not the end nor the extent of these horrors, and every one is + anxious for himself or his friends. Our society consists mostly of + females, and we do not venture out, but hover together like the fowls of + heaven, when warned by a vague yet instinctive dread of the approaching + storm. We tremble at the sound of voices in the street, and cry, with + the agitation of Macbeth, "there's knocking at the gate." I do not + indeed envy, but I most sincerely regret, the peace and safety of + England.—I have no courage to add more, but will enclose a hasty + translation of the letter we received from M. P____, by last night's + post. Humanity cannot comment upon it without shuddering.—Ever Yours, + &c. +</p> +<p> + "Rue St. Honore, Sept. 2, 1792. +</p> +<p> + "In a moment like this, I should be easily excused a breach of promise in + not writing; yet when I recollect the apprehension which the kindness of + my amiable friends will feel on my account, I determine, even amidst the + danger and desolation that surround me, to relieve them.—Would to Heaven + I had nothing more alarming to communicate than my own situation! I may + indeed suffer by accident; but thousands of wretched victims are at this + moment marked for sacrifice, and are massacred with an execrable + imitation of rule and order: a ferocious and cruel multitude, headed by + chosen assassins, are attacking the prisons, forcing the houses of the + noblesse and priests, and, after a horrid mockery of judicial + condemnation, execute them on the spot. The tocsin is rung, alarm guns + are fired, the streets resound with fearful shrieks, and an undefinable + sensation of terror seizes on one's heart. I feel that I have committed + an imprudence in venturing to Paris; but the barriers are now shut, and I + must abide the event. I know not to what these proscriptions tend, or if + all who are not their advocates are to be their victims; but an + ungovernable rage animates the people: many of them have papers in their + hands that seem to direct them to their objects, to whom they hurry in + crouds with an eager and savage fury.—I have just been obliged to quit + my pen. A cart had stopped near my lodgings, and my ears were assailed + by the groans of anguish, and the shouts of frantic exultation. + Uncertain whether to descend or remain, I, after a moment's deliberation, + concluded it would be better to have shown myself than to have appeared + to avoid it, in case the people should enter the house, and therefore + went down with the best show of courage I could assume.—I will draw a + veil over the scene that presented itself—nature revolts, and my fair + friends would shudder at the detail. Suffice it to say, that I saw cars, + loaded with the dead and dying, and driven by their yet ensanguined + murderers; one of whom, in a tone of exultation, cried, 'Here is a + glorious day for France!' I endeavoured to assent, though with a + faultering voice, and, as soon as they were passed escaped to my room. + You may imagine I shall not easily recover the shock I received.—At this + moment they say, the enemy are retreating from Verdun. At any other time + this would have been desirable, but at present one knows not what to wish + for. Most probably, the report is only spread with the humane hope of + appeasing the mob. They have already twice attacked the Temple; and I + tremble lest this asylum of fallen majesty should ere morning, be + violated. +</p> +<p> + "Adieu—I know not if the courier will be permitted to depart; but, as I + believe the streets are not more unsafe than the houses, I shall make an + attempt to send this. I will write again in a few days. If to-morrow + should prove calm, I shall be engaged in enquiring after the fate of my + friends.—I beg my respects to Mons. And Mad. de ____; and entreat you + all to be as tranquil as such circumstances will permit.—You may be + certain of hearing any news that can give you pleasure immediately. I + have the honour to be," &c. &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_25"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You will in future, I believe, find me but a dull correspondent. The + natural timidity of my disposition, added to the dread which a native of + England has of any violation of domestic security, renders me unfit for + the scenes I am engaged in. I am become stupid and melancholy, and my + letters will partake of the oppression of my mind. +</p> +<p> + At Paris, the massacres at the prisons are now over, but those in the + streets and in private houses still continue. Scarcely a post arrives + that does not inform M. de ____ of some friend or acquaintance being + sacrificed. Heaven knows where this is to end! +</p> +<p> + We had, for two days, notice that, pursuant to a decree of the Assembly, + commissioners were expected here at night, and that the tocsin would be + rung for every body to deliver up their arms. We did not dare go to bed + on either of these nights, but merely lay down in our robes de chambre, + without attempting to sleep. This dreaded business is, however, past. + Parties of the Jacobins paraded the streets yesterday morning, and + disarmed all they thought proper. I observed they had lists in their + hands, and only went to such houses as have an external appearance of + property. Mr. de ____, who has been in the service thirty years, + delivered his arms to a boy, who behaved to him with the utmost + insolence, whilst we sat trembling and almost senseless with fear the + whole time they remained in the house; and could I give you an idea of + their appearance, you would think my terror very justifiable. It is, + indeed, strange and alarming, that all who have property should be + deprived of the means of defending either that or their lives, at a + moment when Paris is giving an example of tumult and assassination to + every other part of the kingdom. Knowing no good reason for such + procedure, it is very natural to suspect a bad one.—I think, on many + accounts, we are more exposed here than at ____, and as soon as we can + procure horses we shall depart.—The following is the translation of our + last letter from Mr. P____. +</p> +<br /> +<p> + "I promised my kind friends to write as soon as I should have any thing + satisfactory to communicate: but, alas! I have no hope of being the + harbinger of any thing but circumstances of a very different tendency. + I can only give you details of the horrors I have already generally + described. Carnage has not yet ceased; and is only become more cool and + more discriminating. All the mild characteristics annihilated; and a + frantic cruelty, which is dignified with the name of patriotism, has + usurped ever faculty, and banished both reason and mercy. +</p> +<p> + "Mons. ____, whom I have hitherto known by reputation, as an upright, and + even humane man, had a brother shut up, with a number of other priests, + at the Carmes; and, by his situation and connections, he has such + influence as might, if exerted, have preserved the latter. The + unfortunate brother knowing this, found means, while hourly expecting his + fate, to convey a note to Mr. ____, begging he would immediately release, + and procure him an asylum. The messenger returned with an answer, that + Mons. ____ had no relations in the enemies of his country! +</p> +<p> + "A few hours after, the massacres at the Carmes took place.—One Panis,* + who is in the Comite de Surveillance, had, a few days previous to these + dreadful events, become, I know not on what occasion, the depositary of a + large sum of money belonging to a gentleman of his section. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Panis has since figured on various occasions. He is a member of + the Convention, and was openly accused of having been an accomplice + in the robbery of the Garde Meuble. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + "A secret and frivolous denunciation was made the pretext for throwing + the owner of the money into prison, where he remained till September, + when his friends, recollecting his danger, flew to the Committee and + applied for his discharge. Unfortunately, the only member of the + Committee present was Panis. He promised to take measures for an + immediate release.—Perhaps he kept his word, but the release was cruel + and final—the prison was attacked, and the victim heard of no more.—You + will not be surprized at such occurrences when I tell you that G____,* + whom you must remember to have heard of as a Jacobin at ____, is + President of the Committee above mentioned—yes, an assassin is now the + protector of the public safety, and the commune of Paris the patron of a + criminal who has merited the gibbet. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * G____ was afterwards elected (doubtless by a recommendation of the + Jacobins) Deputy for the department of Finisterre, to which he was + sent Commissioner by the Convention. On account of some + unwarrantable proceedings, and of some words that escaped him, which + gave rise to a suspicion that he was privy to the robbery of the + Garde Meuble, he was arrested by the municipality of Quimper + Corentin, of which place he is a native. The Jacobins applied for + his discharge, and for the punishment of the municipality; but the + Convention, who at that time rarely took any decisive measures, + ordered G____ to be liberated, but evaded the other part of the + petition which tended to revenge him. The affair of the Garde + Meuble, was, however, again brought forward; but, most probably, + many of the members had reasons for not discussing too nearly the + accusation against G____; and those who were not interested in + suppressing it, were too weak or too timid to pursue it farther. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + "—I know not if we are yet arrived at the climax of woe and iniquity, + but Brissot, Condorcet, Rolland, &c. and all those whose principles you + have reprobated as violent and dangerous, will now form the moderate side + of the Assembly. Perhaps even those who are now the party most dreaded, + may one day give place to yet more desperate leaders, and become in their + turn our best alternative. What will then be the situation of France? + Who can reflect without trembling at the prospect?—It is not yet safe to + walk the streets decently dressed; and I have been obliged to supply + myself with trowsers, a jacket, coloured neckcloths, and coarse linen, + which I take care to soil before I venture out. +</p> +<p> + "The Agrarian law is now the moral of Paris, and I had nearly lost my + life yesterday by tearing a placard written in support of it. I did it + imprudently, not supposing I was observed; and had not some people, known + as Jacobins, come up and interfered in my behalf, the consequence might + have been fatal.—It would be difficult, and even impossible, to attempt + a description of the manners of the people of Paris at this moment: the + licentiousness common to great cities is decency compared with what + prevails in this; it has features of a peculiar and striking description, + and the general expression is that of a monstrous union of opposite + vices. Alternately dissolute and cruel, gay and vindictive, the Parisian + vaunts amidst debauchery the triumph of assassination, and enlivens his + midnight orgies by recounting the sufferings of the massacred + aristocrates: women, whose profession it is to please, assume the <i>bonnet + rouge</i> [red cap], and affect, as a means of seduction, an intrepid and + ferocious courage.—I cannot yet learn if Mons. S____'s sister be alive; + her situation about the Queen makes it too doubtful; but endeavour to + give him hope—many may have escaped whose fears still detain them in + concealment. People of the first rank now inhabit garrets and cellars, + and those who appear are disguised beyond recollection; so that I do not + despair of the safety of some, who are now thought to have perished.— + I am, as you may suppose, in haste to leave this place, and I hope to + return to Montmorency tomorrow; but every body is soliciting passports. + The Hotel de Ville is besieged, and I have already attended two days + without success.—I beg my respectful homage to Monsieur and Madame de + ____; and I have the honour to be, with esteem, the affectionate servant + of my friends in general. +</p> +<center> + "L____." +</center> + +<p> + You will read M. L____'s letter with all the grief and indignation we + have already felt, and I will make no comment on it, but to give you a + slight sketch of the history of Guermeur, whom he mentions as being + President of the Committee of Surveillance.—In the absence of a man, + whom he called his friend, he seduced his wife, and eloped with her: the + husband overtook them, and fell in the dispute which insued; when + Guermeur, to avoid being taken by the officers of justice, abandoned his + companion to her fate, and escaped alone. After a variety of adventures, + he at length enlisted himself as a grenadier in the regiment of Dillon. + With much assurance, and talents cultivated above the situation in which + he appeared, he became popular amongst his fellow-soldiers, and the + military impunity, which is one effect of the revolution, cast a veil + over his former guilt, or rather indeed enabled him to defy the + punishment annexed to it. When the regiment was quartered at ____, he + frequented and harangued at the Jacobin club, perverted the minds of the + soldiers by seditious addresses, till at length he was deemed qualified + to quit the character of a subordinate incendiary, and figure amongst the + assassins at Paris. He had hitherto, I believe, acted without pay, for + he was deeply in debt, and without money or clothes; but a few days + previous to the tenth of August, a leader of the Jacobins supplied him + with both, paid his debts, procured his discharge, and sent him to Paris. + What intermediate gradations he may have passed through, I know not; but + it is not difficult to imagine the services that have advanced him to his + present situation.—It would be unsafe to risk this letter by the post, + and I close it hastily to avail myself of a present conveyance.—I + remain, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_26"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September 14, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The camp of Maulde is broken up, and we deferred our journey, that we + might pass a day at Douay with M. de ____'s son. The road within some + miles of that place is covered with corn and forage, the immediate + environs are begun to be inundated, and every thing wears the appearance + of impending hostility. The town is so full of troops, that without the + interest of our military friends we should scarcely have procured a + lodging. All was bustle and confusion, the enemy are very near, and the + French are preparing to form a camp under the walls. Amidst all this, we + found it difficult to satisfy our curiosity in viewing the churches and + pictures: some of the former are shut, and the latter concealed; we + therefore contented ourselves with seeing the principal ones. +</p> +<p> + The town-house is a very handsome building, where the Parliament was + holden previous to the revolution, and where all the business of the + department of the North is now transacted.—In the council-chamber, which + is very elegantly carved, was also a picture of the present King. They + were, at the very moment of our entrance, in the act of displacing it. + We asked the reason, and were told it was to be cut in pieces, and + portions sent to the different popular societies.—I know not if our + features betrayed the indignation we feared to express, but the man who + seemed to have directed this disposal of the portrait, told us we were + not English if we saw it with regret. I was not much delighted with such + a compliment to our country, and was glad to escape without farther + comment. +</p> +<p> + The manners of the people seem every where much changed, and are becoming + gross and inhuman. While we were walking on the ramparts, I happened to + have occasion to take down an address, and with the paper and pencil in + my hand turned out of the direct path to observe a chapel on one side of + it. In a moment I was alarmed by the cries of my companions, and beheld + the musquet of the centinel pointed at me, and M. de ____ expostulating + with him. I am not certain if he supposed I was taking a plan of the + fortifications, and meant really more than a threat; but I was + sufficiently frightened, and shall not again approach a town wall with + pencils and paper. +</p> +<p> + M. de ____ is one of the only six officers of his regiment who have not + emigrated. With an indignation heated by the works of modern + philosophers into an enthusiastic love of republican governments, and + irritated by the contempt and opposition he has met with from those of + this own class who entertain different principles, he is now become + almost a fanatic. What at first was only a political opinion is now a + religious tenet; and the moderate sectary has acquired the obstinacy of a + martyr, and, perhaps, the spirit of persecution. At the beginning of the + revolution, the necessity of deciding, a youthful ardour for liberty, and + the desire of preserving his fortune, probably determined him to become a + patriot; and pride and resentment have given stability to notions which + might otherwise have fluctuated with circumstances, or yielded to time. + This is but too general the case: the friends of rational reform, and the + supporters of the ancient monarchy, have too deeply offended each other + for pardon or confidence; and the country perhaps will be sacrificed by + the mutual desertions of those most concerned in its preservation. + Actuated only by selfishness and revenge, each party willingly consents + to the ruin of its opponents. The Clergy, already divided among + themselves, are abandoned by the Noblesse—the Noblesse are persecuted by + the commercial interest—and, in short, the only union is amongst the + Jacobins; that is, amongst a few weak persons who are deceived, and a + banditti who betray and profit by their "patriotism." +</p> +<p> + I was led to these reflections by my conversation with Mr. de L____ and + his companions. I believe they do not approve of the present extremes, + yet they expressed themselves with the utmost virulence against the + aristocrates, and would hear neither of reconcilement nor palliation. On + the other hand, these dispositions were not altogether unprovoked—the + young men had been persecuted by their relations, and banished the + society of their acquaintance; and their political opinions had acted as + an universal proscription. There were even some against whom the doors + of the parental habitation were shut.—These party violences are + terrible; and I was happy to perceive that the reciprocal claims of duty + and affection were not diminished by them, either in M. de ____, or his + son. He, however, at first refused to come to A____, because he + suspected the patriotism of our society. I pleaded, as an inducement, + the beauty of Mad. G____, but he told me she was an aristocrate. It was + at length, however, determined, that he should dine with us last Sunday, + and that all visitors should be excluded. He was prevented coming by + being ordered out with a party the day we left him; and he has written to + us in high spirits, to say, that, besides fulfilling his object, he had + returned with fifty prisoners. +</p> +<p> + We had a very narrow escape in coming home—the Hulans were at the + village of ____, an hour after we passed through it, and treated the poor + inhabitants, as they usually do, with great inhumanity.—Nothing has + alienated the minds of the people so much as the cruelties of these + troops—they plunder and ill treat all they encounter; and their avarice + is even less insatiable than their barbarity. How hard is it, that the + ambition of the Chiefs, and the wickedness of faction, should thus fall + upon the innocent cottager, who perhaps is equally a stranger to the + names of the one, and the principles of the other! +</p> +<p> + The public papers will now inform you, that the French are at liberty to + obtain a divorce on almost any pretext, or even on no pretext at all, + except what many may think a very good one—mutual agreement. A lady of + our acquaintance here is become a republican in consequence of the + decree, and probably will very soon avail herself of it; but this + conduct, I conceive, will not be very general. +</p> +<p> + Much has been said of the gallantry of the French ladies, and not + entirely without reason; yet, though sometimes inconstant wives, they + are, for the most part, faithful friends—they sacrifice the husband + without forsaking him, and their common interest is always promoted with + as much zeal as the most inviolable attachment could inspire. Mad. de + C____, whom we often meet in company, is the wife of an emigrant, and is + said not to be absolutely disconsolate at his absence; yet she is + indefatigable in her efforts to supply him with money: she even risks her + safety by her solicitude, and has just now prevailed on her favourite + admirer to hasten his departure for the frontiers, in order to convey a + sum she has with much difficulty been raising. Such instances are, I + believe, not very rare; and as a Frenchman usually prefers his interest + to every thing else, and is not quite so unaccommodating as an + Englishman, an amicable arrangement takes place, and one seldom hears of + a separation. +</p> +<p> + The inhabitants of Arras, with all their patriotism, are extremely averse + from the assignats; and it is with great reluctance that they consent to + receive them at two-thirds of their nominal value. This discredit of the + paper money has been now two months at a stand, and its rise or fall will + be determined by the success of the campaign.—I bid you adieu for the + last time from hence. We have already exceeded the proposed length of + our visit, and shall set out for St. Omer to-morrow.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_27"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + St. Omer, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I am confined to my room by a slight indisposition, and, instead of + accompanying my friends, have taken up my pen to inform you that we are + thus far safe on our journey.—Do not, because you are surrounded by a + protecting element, smile at the idea of travelling forty or fifty miles + in safety. The light troops of the Austrian army penetrate so far, that + none of the roads on the frontier are entirely free from danger. My + female companions were alarmed the whole day—the young for their + baggage, and the old for themselves. +</p> +<p> + The country between this and Arras has the appearance of a garden + cultivated for the common use of its inhabitants, and has all the + fertility and beauty of which a flat surface is susceptible. Bethune and + Aire I should suppose strongly fortified. I did not fail, in passing + through the former, to recollect with veneration the faithful minister of + Henry the Fourth. The misfortunes of the descendant of Henry, whom + Sully* loved, and the state of the kingdom he so much cherished, made a + stronger impression on me than usual, and I mingled with the tribute of + respect a sentiment of indignation. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Maximilien de Bethune, Duc de Sully. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + What perverse and malignant influence can have excited the people either + to incur or to suffer their present situation? Were we not well + acquainted with the arts of factions, the activity of bad men, and the + effect of their union, I should be almost tempted to believe this change + in the French supernatural. Less than three years ago, the name of Henri + Quatre was not uttered without enthusiasm. The piece that transmitted + the slightest anecdotes of his life was certain of success—the air that + celebrated him was listened to with delight—and the decorations of + beauty, when associated with the idea of this gallant Monarch, became + more irresistible.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * At this time it was the prevailing fashion to call any new + inventions of female dress after his name, and to decorate the + ornamental parts of furniture with his resemblance. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Yet Henry the Fourth is now a tyrant—his pictures and statues are + destroyed, and his memory is execrated!—Those who have reduced the + French to this are, doubtless, base and designing intriguers; yet I + cannot acquit the people, who are thus wrought on, of unfeelingness and + levity.—England has had its revolutions; but the names of Henry the + Fifth and Elizabeth were still revered: and the regal monuments, which + still exist, after all the vicissitudes of our political principles, + attest the mildness of the English republicans. +</p> +<p> + The last days of our stay at Arras were embittered by the distress of our + neighbour and acquaintance, Madame de B____. She has lost two sons under + circumstances so affecting, that I think you will be interested in the + relation.—The two young men were in the army, and quartered at + Perpignan, at a time when some effort of counter-revolution was said to + be intended. One of them was arrested as being concerned, and the other + surrendered himself prisoner to accompany his brother.—When the High + Court at Orleans was instituted for trying state-prisoners, those of + Perpignan were ordered to be conducted there, and the two B____'s, + chained together, were taken with the rest. On their arrival at Orleans, + their gaoler had mislaid the key that unlocked their fetters, and, not + finding it immediately, the young men produced one, which answered the + purpose, and released themselves. The gaoler looked at them with + surprize, and asked why, with such a means in their power, they had not + escaped in the night, or on the road. They replied, because they were + not culpable, and had no reason for avoiding a trial that would manifest + their innocence. Their heroism was fatal. They were brought, by a + decree of the Convention, from Orleans to Versailles, (on their way to + Paris,) where they were met by the mob, and massacred. +</p> +<p> + Their unfortunate mother is yet ignorant of their fate; but we left her + in a state little preferable to that which will be the effect of + certainty. She saw the decree for transporting the prisoners from + Orleans, and all accounts of the result have been carefully concealed + from her; yet her anxious and enquiring looks at all who approach her, + indicate but too well her suspicion of the truth.—Mons. de ____'s + situation is indescribable. Informed of the death of his sons, he is yet + obliged to conceal his sufferings, and wear an appearance of tranquillity + in the presence of his wife. Sometimes he escapes, when unable to + contain his emotions any longer, and remains at M. de ____'s till he + recovers himself. He takes no notice of the subject of his grief, and we + respect it too much to attempt to console him. The last time I asked him + after Madame de ____, he told me her spirits were something better, and, + added he, in a voice almost suffocated, "She is amusing herself with + working neckcloths for her sons!"—When you reflect that the massacres at + Paris took place on the second and third of September, and that the + decree was passed to bring the prisoners from Orleans (where they were in + safety) on the tenth, I can say nothing that will add to the horror of + this transaction, or to your detestation of its cause. Sixty-two, mostly + people of high rank, fell victims to this barbarous policy: they were + brought in a fort of covered waggons, and were murdered in heaps without + being taken out.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Perhaps the reader will be pleased at a discovery, which it would + have been unsafe to mention when made, or in the course of this + correspondence. The two young men here alluded to arrived at + Versailles, chained together, with their fellow-prisoners. + Surprize, perhaps admiration, had diverted the gaoler's attention + from demanding the key that opened their padlock, and it was still + in their possession. On entering Versailles, and observing the + crowd preparing to attack them, they divested themselves of their + fetters, and of every other incumbrance. In a few moments their + carriages were surrounded, their companions at one end were already + murdered, and themselves slightly wounded; but the confusion + increasing, they darted amidst the croud, and were in a moment + undistinguishable. They were afterwards taken under the protection + of an humane magistrate, who concealed them for some time, and they + are now in perfect security. They were the only two of the whole + number that escaped. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<a name="2H_4_28"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We passed a country so barren and uninteresting yesterday, that even a + professional traveller could not have made a single page of it. It was, + in every thing, a perfect contrast to the rich plains of Artois— + unfertile, neglected vallies and hills, miserable farms, still more + miserable cottages, and scarcely any appearance of population. The only + place where we could refresh the horses was a small house, over the door + of which was the pompous designation of Hotel d'Angleterre. I know not + if this be intended as a ridicule on our country, or as an attraction to + our countrymen, but I, however, found something besides the appellation + which reminded me of England, and which one does not often find in houses + of a better outside; for though the rooms were small, and only two in + number, they were very clean, and the hostess was neat and civil. The + Hotel d'Angleterre, indeed, was not luxuriously supplied, and the whole + of our repast was eggs and tea, which we had brought with us.—In the + next room to that we occupied were two prisoners chained, whom the + officers were conveying to Arras, for the purpose of better security. + The secret history of this business is worth relating, as it marks the + character of the moment, and the ascendancy which the Jacobins are daily + acquiring. +</p> +<p> + These men were apprehended as smugglers, under circumstances of peculiar + atrocity, and committed to the gaol at ____. A few days after, a young + girl, of bad character, who has much influence at the club, made a + motion, that the people, in a body, should demand the release of the + prisoners. The motion was carried, and the Hotel de Ville assailed by a + formidable troop of sailors, fish-women, &c.—The municipality refused to + comply, the Garde Nationale was called out, and, on the mob persisting, + fired over their heads, wounded a few, and the rest dispersed of + themselves.—Now you must understand, the latent motive of all this was + two thousand livres promised to one of the Jacobin leaders, if he + succeeded in procuring the men their liberty.—I do not advance this + merely on conjecture. The fact is well known to the municipality; and + the decent part of it would willingly have expelled this man, who is one + of their members, but that they found themselves too weak to engage in a + serious quarrel with the Jacobins.—One cannot reflect, without + apprehension, that any society should exist which can oppose the + execution of the laws with impunity, or that a people, who are little + sensible of realities, should be thus abused by names. They suffer, with + unfeeling patience, a thousand enormities—yet blindly risk their + liberties and lives to promote the designs of an adventurer, because he + harangues at a club, and calls himself a patriot.—I have just received + advice that my friends have left Lausanne, and are on their way to Paris. + Our first plan of passing the winter there will be imprudent, if not + impracticable, and we have concluded to take a house for the winter six + months at Amiens, Chantilly, or some place which has the reputation of + being quiet. I have already ordered enquiries to be made, and shall set + out with Mrs. ____ in a day or two for Amiens. I may, perhaps, not write + till our return; but shall not cease to be, with great truth.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_29"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The departement de la Somme has the reputation of being a little + aristocratic. I know not how far this be merited, but the people are + certainly not enthusiasts. The villages we passed on our road hither + were very different from those on the frontiers—we were hailed by no + popular sounds, no cries of Vive la nation! except from here and there + some ragged boy in a red cap, who, from habit, associated this salutation + with the appearance of a carriage. In every place where there are half a + dozen houses is planted an unthriving tree of liberty, which seems to + wither under the baneful influence of the <i>bonnet rouge</i>. [The red cap.] + This Jacobin attribute is made of materials to resist the weather, and + may last some time; but the trees of liberty, being planted unseasonably, + are already dead. I hope this will not prove emblematic, and that the + power of the Jacobins may not outlive the freedom of the people. +</p> +<p> + The Convention begin their labours under disagreeable auspices. A + general terror seems to have seized on the Parisians, the roads are + covered with carriages, and the inns filled with travellers. A new + regulation has just taken place, apparently intended to check this + restless spirit. At Abbeville, though we arrived late and were fatigued, + we were taken to the municipality, our passports collated with our + persons, and at the inn we were obliged to insert in a book our names, + the place of our birth, from whence we came, and where we were going. + This, you will say, has more the features of a mature Inquisition, than a + new-born Republic; but the French have different notions of liberty from + yours, and take these things very quietly.—At Flixecourt we eat out of + pewter spoons, and the people told us, with much inquietude, that they + had sold their plate, in expectation of a decree of the Convention to + take it from them. This decree, however, has not passed, but the alarm + is universal, and does not imply any great confidence in the new + government. +</p> +<p> + I have had much difficulty in executing my commission, and have at last + fixed upon a house, of which I fear my friends will not approve; but the + panic which depopulates Paris, the bombardment of Lisle, and the + tranquillity which has hitherto prevailed here, has filled the town, and + rendered every kind of habitation scarce, and extravagantly dear: for you + must remark, that though the Amienois are all aristocrates, yet when an + intimidated sufferer of the same party flies from Paris, and seeks an + asylum amongst them, they calculate with much exactitude what they + suppose necessity may compel him to give, and will not take a livre + less.—The rent of houses and lodgings, like the national funds, rises + and falls with the public distresses, and, like them, is an object of + speculation: several persons to whom we were addressed were extremely + indifferent about letting their houses, alledging as a reason, that if + the disorders of Paris should increase, they had no doubt of letting them + to much greater advantage. +</p> +<p> + We were at the theatre last night—it was opened for the first time since + France has been declared a republic, and the Jacobins vociferated loudly + to have the fleur de lys, ad other regal emblems, effaced. Obedience was + no sooner promised to this command, than it was succeeded by another not + quite so easily complied with—they insisted on having the Marsellois + Hymn sung. In vain did the manager, with a ludicrous sort of terror, + declare, that there were none of his company who had any voice, or who + knew either the words of the music of the hymn in question. <i>"C'est egal, + il faut chanter,"</i> ["No matter for that, they must sing."] resounded from + all the patriots in the house. At last, finding the thing impossible, + they agreed to a compromise; and one of the actors promised to sing it on + the morrow, as well as the trifling impediment of having no voice would + permit him.—You think your galleries despotic when they call for an + epilogue that is forgotten, and the actress who should speak it is + undrest; or when they insist upon enlivening the last acts of Jane Shore + with Roast Beef! What would you think if they would not dispense with a + hornpipe on the tight-rope by Mrs. Webb? Yet, bating the danger, I + assure you, the audience of Amiens was equally unreasonable. But liberty + at present seems to be in an undefined state; and until our rulers shall + have determined what it is, the matter will continue to be settled as it + is now—by each man usurping as large a portion of tyranny as his + situation will admit of. He who submits without repining to his + district, to his municipality, or even to the club, domineers at the + theatre, or exercises in the street a manual censure on aristocratic + apparel.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *It was common at this time to insult women in the streets if + dressed too well, or in colours the people chose to call + aristocratic. I was myself nearly thrown down for having on a straw + bonnet with green ribbons. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Our embarrassment for small change is renewed: many of the communes who + had issued bills of five, ten, and fifteen sols, repayable in assignats, + are become bankrupts, which circumstance has thrown such a discredit on + all this kind of nominal money, that the bills of one town will not pass + at another. The original creation of these bills was so limited, that no + town had half the number requisite for the circulation of its + neighbourhood; and this decrease, with the distrust that arises from the + occasion of it, greatly adds to the general inconvenience. +</p> +<p> + The retreat of the Prussian army excites more surprize than interest, and + the people talk of it with as much indifference as they would of an event + that had happened beyond the Ganges. The siege of Lisle takes off all + attention from the relief of Thionville—not on account of its + importance, but on account of its novelty.—I remain, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_30"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Abbeville, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We left Amiens early yesterday morning, but were so much delayed by the + number of volunteers on the road, that it was late before we reached + Abbeville. I was at first somewhat alarmed at finding ourselves + surrounded by so formidable a cortege; they however only exacted a + declaration of our political principles, and we purchased our safety by a + few smiles, and exclamations of vive la nation! There were some hundreds + of these recruits much under twenty; but the poor fellows, exhilarated by + their new uniform and large pay, were going gaily to decide their fate by + that hazard which puts youth and age on a level, and scatters with + indiscriminating hand the cypress and the laurel. +</p> +<p> + At Abbeville all the former precautions were renewed—we underwent + another solemn identification of our persons at the Hotel de Ville, and + an abstract of our history was again enregistered at the inn. One would + really suppose that the town was under apprehensions of a siege, or, at + least, of the plague. My "paper face" was examined as suspiciously as + though I had had the appearance of a travestied Achilles; and M____'s, + which has as little expression as a Chinese painting, was elaborately + scrutinized by a Dogberry in spectacles, who, perhaps, fancied she had + the features of a female Machiavel. All this was done with an air of + importance sufficiently ludicrous, when contrasted with the object; but + we met with no incivility, and had nothing to complain of but a little + additional fatigue, and the delay of our dinner. +</p> +<p> + We stopped to change horses at Bernay, and I soon perceived our landlady + was a very ardent patriot. In a room, to which we waded at great risk of + our clothes, was a representation of the siege of the Bastille, and + prints of half a dozen American Generals, headed by Mr. Thomas Paine. On + descending, we found out hostess exhibiting a still more forcible picture + of curiosity than Shakspeare's blacksmith. The half-demolished repast + was cooling on the table, whilst our postilion retailed the Gazette, and + the pigs and ducks were amicably grazing together on whatever the kitchen + produced. The affairs of the Prussians and Austrians were discussed with + entire unanimity, but when these politicians, as is often the case, came + to adjust their own particular account, the conference was much less + harmonious. The postilion offered a ten sols billet, which the landlady + refused: one persisted in its validity, the other in rejecting it—till, + at last, the patriotism of neither could endure this proof, and peace was + concluded by a joint execration of those who invented this fichu papier— + "Sorry paper." +</p> +<p> + At ____ we met our friend, Mad. de ____, with part of her family and an + immense quantity of baggage. I was both surprized and alarmed at such an + apparition, and found, on enquiry, that they thought themselves unsafe at + Arras, and were going to reside near M. de ____'s estate, where they were + better known. I really began to doubt the prudence of our establishing + ourselves here for the winter. Every one who has it in his power + endeavours to emigrate, even those who till now have been zealous + supporters of the revolution.—Distrust and apprehension seem to have + taken possession of every mind. Those who are in towns fly to the + country, while the inhabitant of the isolated chateau takes refuge in the + neighbouring town. Flocks of both aristocrates and patriots are + trembling and fluttering at the foreboding storm, yet prefer to abide its + fury, rather than seek shelter and defence together. I, however, flatter + myself, that the new government will not justify this fear; and as I am + certain my friends will not return to England at this season, I shall not + endeavour to intimidate or discourage them from their present + arrangement. We shall, at least, be enabled to form some idea of a + republican constitution, and I do not, on reflection, conceive that any + possible harm can happen to us. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_31"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + October, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I shall not date from this place again, intending to quit it as soon as + possible. It is disturbed by the crouds from the camps, which are broken + up, and the soldiers are extremely brutal and insolent. So much are the + people already familiarized with the unnatural depravity of manners that + begins to prevail, that the wife of the Colonel of a battalion now here + walks the streets in a red cap, with pistols at her girdle, boasting of + the numbers she has destroyed at the massacres in August and September. +</p> +<p> + The Convention talk of the King's trial as a decided measure; yet no one + seems to admit even the possibility that such an act can be ever + intended. A few believe him culpable, many think him misled, and many + acquit him totally: but all agree, that any violation of his person would + be an atrocity disgraceful to the nation at large.—The fate of Princes + is often disastrous in proportion to their virtues. The vanity, + selfishness, and bigotry of Louis the Fourteenth were flattered while he + lived, and procured him the appellation of Great after his death. The + greatest military talents that France has given birth to seemed created + to earn laurels, not for themselves, but for the brow of that + vain-glorious Monarch. Industry and Science toiled but for his + gratification, and Genius, forgetting its dignity, willingly received + from his award the same it has since bestowed. +</p> +<p> + Louis the Fifteenth, who corrupted the people by his example, and ruined + them by his expence, knew no diminution of the loyalty, whatever he might + of the affection, of his people, and ended his days in the practice of + the same vices, and surrounded by the same luxury, in which he had passed + them. +</p> +<p> + Louis the Sixteenth, to whom scarcely his enemies ascribe any vices, for + its outrages against whom faction finds no excuse but in the facility of + his nature—whose devotion is at once exemplary and tolerant—who, in an + age of licentiousness, is remarkable for the simplicity of his manners— + whose amusements were liberal or inoffensive—and whose concessions to + his people form a striking contrast with the exactions of his + predecessors.—Yes, the Monarch I have been describing, and, I think, not + partially, has been overwhelmed with sorrow and indignities—his person + has been degraded, that he might be despoiled of his crown, and perhaps + the sacrifice of his crown may be followed by that of his life. When we + thus see the punishment of guilt accumulated on the head of him who has + not participated in it, and vice triumph in the security that should seem + the lot of innocence, we can only adduce new motives to fortify ourselves + in this great truth of our religion—that the chastisement of the one, + and reward of the other, must be looked for beyond the inflictions or + enjoyments of our present existence. +</p> +<p> + I do not often moralize on paper, but there are moments when one derives + one's best consolation from so moralizing; and this easy and simple + justification of Providence, which refers all that appears inconsistent + here to the retribution of a future state, is pointed out less as the + duty than the happiness of mankind. This single argument of religion + solves every difficulty, and leaves the mind in fortitude and peace; + whilst the pride of sceptical philosophy traces whole volumes, only to + establish the doubts, and nourish the despair, of its disciples. +</p> +<p> + Adieu. I cannot conclude better than with these reflections, at a time + when disbelief is something too fashionable even amongst our + countrymen.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_32"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, October, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I arrived here the day on which a ball was given to celebrate the return + of the volunteers who had gone to the assistance of Lisle.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The bombardment of Lisle commenced on the twenty-ninth of + September, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and continued, almost + without interruption, until the sixth of October. Many of the + public buildings, and whole quarters of the town, were so much + damaged or destroyed, that the situation of the streets were + scarcely distinguishable. The houses which the fire obliged their + inhabitants to abandon, were pillaged by barbarians, more merciless + than the Austrians themselves. Yet, amidst these accumulated + horrors, the Lillois not only preserved their courage, but their + presence of mind: the rich incited and encouraged the poor; those + who were unable to assist with their labour, rewarded with their + wealth: the men were employed in endeavouring to extinguish the fire + of the buildings, or in preserving their effects; while women and + children snatched the opportunity of extinguishing the fuzes of the + bombs as soon as they fell, at which they became very daring and + dexterous. During the whole of this dreadful period, not one + murmur, not one proposition to surrender, was heard from any party. + + —The Convention decreed, amidst the wildest enthusiasm of applause, + that Lisle had deserved well of the country. + + —Forty-two thousand five hundred balls were fired, and the damages + were estimated at forty millions of livres. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The French, indeed, never refuse to rejoice when they are ordered; but as + these festivities are not spontaneous effusions, but official ordinances, + and regulated with the same method as a tax or recruitment, they are of + course languid and uninteresting. The whole of their hilarity seems to + consist in the movement of the dance, in which they are by not means + animated; and I have seen, even among the common people, a cotillion + performed as gravely and as mechanically as the ceremonies of a Chinese + court.—I have always thought, with Sterne, that we were mistaken in + supposing the French a gay nation. It is true, they laugh much, have + great gesticulation, and are extravagantly fond of dancing: but the laugh + is the effect of habit, and not of a risible sensation; the gesture is + not the agitation of the mind operating upon the body, but constitutional + volatility; and their love of dancing is merely the effect of a happy + climate, (which, though mild, does not enervate,) and that love of action + which usually accompanies mental vacancy, when it is not counteracted by + heat, or other physical causes. +</p> +<p> + I know such an opinion, if publicly avowed, would be combated as false + and singular; yet I appeal to those who have at all studied the French + character, not as travellers, but by a residence amongst them, for the + support of my opinion. Every one who understands the language, and has + mixed much in society, must have made the same observations.—See two + Frenchmen at a distance, and the vehemence of their action, and the + expression of their features, shall make you conclude they are discussing + some subject, which not only interests, but delights them. Enquire, and + you will find they were talking of the weather, or the price of a + waistcoat!—In England you would be tempted to call in a peace-officer at + the loud tone and menacing attitudes with which two people here very + amicably adjust a bargain for five livres.—In short, we mistake that for + a mental quality which, in fact, is but a corporeal one; and, though the + French may have many good and agreeable points of character, I do not + include gaiety among the number. +</p> +<p> + I doubt very much of my friends will approve of their habitation. I + confess I am by no means satisfied with it myself; and, with regard to + pecuniary consideration, my engagement is not an advantageous one. + —Madame Dorval, of whom I have taken the house, is a character very + common in France, and over which I was little calculated to have the + ascendant. Officiously polite in her manners, and inflexibly attentive + to her interest, she seemingly acquiesces in every thing you propose. + You would even fancy she was solicitous to serve you; yet, after a + thousand gracious sentiments, and as many implied eulogiums on her + liberality and generosity, you find her return, with unrelenting + perseverance, to some paltry proposition, by which she is to gain a few + livres; and all this so civilly, so sentimentally, and so determinedly, + that you find yourself obliged to yield, and are duped without being + deceived. +</p> +<p> + The lower class have here, as well as on your side of the water, the + custom of attributing to Ministers and Governments some connection with, + or controul over, the operations of nature. I remarked to a woman who + brings me fruit, that the grapes were bad and dear this year—<i>"Ah! mon + Dieu, oui, ils ne murrissent pas. Il me semble que tout va mal depuis + qu'on a invente la nation."</i> ["Ah! Lord, they don't ripen now.—For my + part, I think nothing has gone well since the nation was first + invented."] +</p> +<p> + I cannot, like the imitators of Sterne, translate a chapter of sentiment + from every incident that occurs, or from every physiognomy I encounter; + yet, in circumstances like the present, the mind, not usually observing, + is tempted to comment.—I was in a milliner's shop to-day, and took + notice on my entering, that its mistress was, whilst at her work, + learning the <i>Marseillois</i> Hymn. [A patriotic air, at this time highly + popular.] Before I had concluded my purchase, an officer came in to + prepare her for the reception of four volunteers, whom she was to lodge + the two ensuing nights. She assented, indeed, very graciously, (for a + French woman never loses the command of her features,) but a moment + after, the Marseillois, which lay on the counter, was thrown aside in a + pet, and I dare say she will not resume her patriotic taste, nor be + reconciled to the revolution, until some days after the volunteers shall + have changed their quarters. +</p> +<p> + This quartering of troops in private houses appears to me the most + grievous and impolitic of all taxes; it adds embarrassment to expence, + invades domestic comfort, and conveys such an idea of military + subjection, that I wonder any people ever submits to it, or any + government ever ventures to impose it. +</p> +<p> + I know not if the English are conscious of their own importance at this + moment, but it is certain they are the centre of the hopes and fears of + all parties, I might say of all Europe. The aristocrates wait with + anxiety and solicitude a declaration of war, whilst their opponents + regard such an event as pregnant with distress, and even as the signal of + their ruin. The body of the people of both parties are averse from + increasing the number of their enemies; but as the Convention may be + directed by other motives than the public wish, it is impossible to form + any conclusion on the subject. I am, of course, desirous of peace, and + should be so from selfishness, if I were not from philanthropy, as a + cessation of it at this time would disconcert all our plans, and oblige + us to seek refuge at ____, which has just all that is necessary for our + happiness, except what is most desirable—a mild and dry atmosphere.— + Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_33"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, November, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The arrival of my friends has occasioned a short suspension of my + correspondence: but though I have been negligent, I assure you, my dear + brother, I have not been forgetful; and this temporary preference of the + ties of friendship to those of nature, will be excused, when you consider + our long separation. +</p> +<p> + My intimacy with Mrs. D____ began when I first came to this country, and + at every subsequent visit to the continent it has been renewed and + increased into that rational kind of attachment, which your sex seldom + allow in ours, though you yourselves do not abound in examples of it. + Mrs. D____ is one of those characters which are oftener loved than + admired—more agreeable than handsome—good-natured, humane, and + unassuming—and with no mental pretensions beyond common sense tolerably + well cultivated. The shades of this portraiture are an extreme of + delicacy, bordering on fastidiousness—a trifle of hauteur, not in + manners, but disposition—and, perhaps, a tincture of affectation. These + foibles are, however, in a great degree, constitutional: she is more an + invalid than myself; and ill health naturally increases irritability, and + renders the mind less disposed to bear with inconveniencies; we avoid + company at first, through a sense of our infirmities, till this timidity + becomes habitual, and settles almost into aversion.—The valetudinarian, + who is obliged to fly the world, in time fancies herself above it, and + ends by supposing there is some superiority in differing from other + people. Mr. D____ is one of the best men existing—well bred and well + informed; yet, without its appearing to the common observer, he is of a + very singular and original turn of mind. He is most exceedingly nervous, + and this effect of his physical construction has rendered him so + susceptible, that he is continually agitated and hurt by circumstances + which others pass by unnoticed. In other respects he is a great lover of + exercise, fond of domestic life, reads much, and has an aversion from + bustle of all kind. +</p> +<p> + The banishment of the Priests, which in many instances was attended with + circumstances of peculiar atrocity, has not yet produced those effects + which were expected from it, and which the promoters of the measure + employed as a pretext for its adoption. There are indeed now no masses + said but by the Constitutional Clergy; but as the people are usually as + ingenious in evading laws as legislators are in forming them, many + persons, instead of attending the churches, which they think profaned by + priests who have taken the oaths, flock to church-yards, chapels, or + other places, once appropriated to religious worship, but in disuse since + the revolution, and of course not violated by constitutional masses. The + cemetery of St. Denis, at Amiens, though large, is on Sundays and + holidays so crouded, that it is almost difficult to enter it. Here the + devotees flock in all weathers, say their mass, and return with the + double satisfaction of having preserved their allegiance to the Pope, and + risked persecution in a cause they deem meritorious. To say truth, it is + not very surprizing that numbers should be prejudiced against the + constitutional clergy. Many of them are, I doubt not, liberal and + well-meaning men, who have preferred peace and submission to theological + warfare, and who might not think themselves justified in opposing their + opinion to a national decision: yet are there also many of profligate + lives, who were never educated for the profession, and whom the + circumstances of the times have tempted to embrace it as a trade, which + offered subsistence without labour, and influence without wealth, and + which at once supplied a veil for licentiousness, and the means of + practising it. Such pastors, it must be confessed, have little claim to + the confidence or respect of the people; and that there are such, I do + not assert, but on the most credible information. I will only cite two + instances out of many within my own knowledge. +</p> +<p> + P____n, bishop of St. Omer, was originally a priest of Arras, of vicious + character, and many of his ordinations have been such as might be + expected from such a patron.—A man of Arras, who was only known for his + vicious pursuits, and who had the reputation of having accelerated the + death of his wife by ill treatment, applied to P____n to marry him a + second time. The good Bishop, preferring the interest of his friend to + the salvation of his flock, advised him to relinquish the project of + taking a wife, and offered to give him a cure. The proposal was accepted + on the spot, and this pious associate of the Reverend P____n was + immediately invested with the direction of the consciences, and the care + of the morals, of an extensive parish. +</p> +<p> + Acts of this nature, it is to be imagined, were pursued by censure and + ridicule; but the latter was not often more successful than on the + following occasion:—Two young men, whose persons were unknown to the + bishop, one day procured an audience, and requested he would recommend + them to some employment that would procure them the means of subsistence. + This was just a time when the numerous vacancies that had taken place + were not yet supplied, and many livings were unfilled for want of + candidates. The Bishop, who was unwilling that the nonjuring priests + should have the triumph of seeing their benefices remain vacant, fell + into the snare, and proposed their taking orders. The young men + expressed their joy at the offer; but, after looking confusedly on each + other, with some difficulty and diffidence, confessed their lives had + been such as to preclude them from the profession, which, but for this + impediment, would have satisfied them beyond their hopes. The Bishop + very complaisantly endeavoured to obviate thesse objections, while they + continued to accuse themselves of all the sins in the decalogue; but the + Prelate at length observing he had ordained many worse, the young men + smiled contemptuously, and, turning on their heels, replied, that if + priests were made of worse men than they had described themselves to be, + they begged to be excused from associating with such company. +</p> +<p> + Dumouriez, Custine, Biron, Dillon, &c. are doing wonders, in spite of the + season; but the laurel is an ever-green, and these heroes gather it + equally among the snows of the Alps, and the fogs of Belgium. If we may + credit the French papers too, what they call the cause of liberty is not + less successfully propagated by the pen than the sword. England is said + to be on the eve of a revolution, and all its inhabitants, except the + King and Mr. Pitt, become Jacobins. If I did not believe "the wish was + father to the thought," I should read these assertions with much + inquietude, as I have not yet discovered the excellencies of a republican + form of government sufficiently to make me wish it substituted for our + own.—It should seem that the Temple of Liberty, as well as the Temple of + Virtue, is placed on an ascent, and that as many inflexions and + retrogradations occur in endeavouring to attain it. In the ardour of + reaching these difficult acclivities, a fall sometimes leaves us lower + than the situation we first set out from; or, to speak without a figure, + so much power is exercised by our leaders, and so much submission exacted + from the people, that the French are in danger of becoming habituated to + a despotism which almost sanctifies the errors of their ancient monarchy, + while they suppose themselves in the pursuit of a degree of freedom more + sublime and more absolute than has been enjoyed by any other nation.— + Attempts at political as well as moral perfection, when carried beyond + the limits compatible with a social state, or the weakness of our + natures, are likely to end in a depravity which moderate governments and + rational ethics would have prevented. +</p> +<p> + The debates of the Convention are violent and acrimonious. Robespierre + has been accused of aspiring to the Dictatorship, and his defence was by + no means calculated to exonerate him from the charge. All the chiefs + reproach each other with being the authors of the late massacres, and + each succeeds better in fixing the imputation on his neighbour, than in + removing it from himself. General reprobation, personal invectives, and + long speeches, are not wanting; but every thing which tends to + examination and enquiry is treated with much more delicacy and composure: + so that I fear these first legislators of the republic must, for the + present, be content with the reputation they have assigned each other, + and rank amongst those who have all the guilt, but want the courage, of + assassins. +</p> +<p> + I subjoin an extract from a newspaper, which has lately appeared.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *Extract from <i>The Courier de l'Egalite,</i> November, 1792: + + "There are discontented people who still venture to obtrude their + sentiments on the public. One of them, in a public print, thus + expresses himself— + + 'I assert, that the newspapers are sold and devoted to falsehood. + At this price they purchase the liberty of appearing; and the + exclusive privilege they enjoy, as well as the contradictory and + lying assertions they all contain, prove the truth of what I + advance. They are all preachers of liberty, yet never was liberty + so shamefully outraged—of respect for property, and property was at + no time so little held sacred—of personal security, yet when were + there committed so many massacres? and, at the very moment I am + writing, new ones are premeditated. They call vehemently for + submission, and obedience to the laws, but the laws had never less + influence; and while our compliance with such as we are even + ignorant of is exacted, it is accounted a crime to execute those in + force. Every municipality has its own arbitrary code—every + battalion, every private soldier, exercises a sovereignty, a most + absolute despotism; and yet the Gazettes do not cease to boast the + excellence of such a government. They have, one and all, attributed + the massacres of the tenth of August and the second of September, + and the days following each, to a popular fermentation. The + monsters! they have been careful not to tell us, that each of these + horrid scenes (at the prisons, at La Force, at the Abbaye, &c. &c.) + was presided by municipal officers in their scarfs, who pointed out + the victims, and gave the signal for the assassination. It was + (continue the Journals) the error of an irritated people—and yet + their magistrates were at the head of it: it was a momentary error; + yet this error of a moment continued during six whole days of the + coolest reflection—it was only at the close of the seventh that + Petion made his appearance, and affected to persuade the people to + desist. The assassins left off only from fatigue, and at this + moment they are preparing to begin again. The Journals do not tell + us that the chief of these <i>Scelerats</i> [We have no term in the + English language that conveys an adequate meaning for this word—it + seems to express the extreme of human wickedness and atrocity.] + employed subordinate assassins, whom they caused to be clandestinely + murdered in their turn, as though they hoped to destroy the proof of + their crime, and escape the vengeance that awaits them. But the + people themselves were accomplices in the deed, for the Garde + Nationale gave their assistance,'" &c. &c. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + In spite of the murder of so many journalists, and the destruction of the + printing-offices, it treats the September business so freely, that the + editor will doubtless soon be silenced. Admitting these accusations to + be unfounded, what ideas must the people have of their magistrates, when + they are credited? It is the prepossession of the hearer that gives + authenticity to fiction; and such atrocities would neither be imputed to, + nor believed of, men not already bad.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_34"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + December, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Dear Brother, +</p> +<p> + All the public prints still continue strongly to insinuate, that England + is prepared for an insurrection, and Scotland already in actual + rebellion: but I know the character of our countrymen too well to be + persuaded that they have adopted new principles as easily as they would + adopt a new mode, or that the visionary anarchists of the French + government can have made many proselytes among an humane and rational + people. For many years we were content to let France remain the + arbitress of the lighter departments of taste: lately she has ceded this + province to us, and England has dictated with uncontested superiority. + This I cannot think very strange; for the eye in time becomes fatigued by + elaborate finery, and requires only the introduction of simple elegance + to be attracted by it. But if, while we export fashions to this country, + we should receive in exchange her republican systems, it would be a + strange revolution indeed; and I think, in such a commerce, we should be + far from finding the balance in our favour. I have, in fact, little + solicitude about these diurnal falsehoods, though I am not altogether + free from alarm as to their tendency. I cannot help suspecting it is to + influence the people to a belief that such dispositions exist in England + as preclude the danger of a war, in case it should be thought necessary + to sacrifice the King. +</p> +<p> + I am more confirmed in this opinion, from the recent discovery, with the + circumstances attending it, of a secret iron chest at the Tuilleries. + The man who had been employed to construct this recess, informs the + minister, Rolland; who, instead of communicating the matter to the + Convention, as it was very natural he should do on an occasion of so much + importance, and requiring it to be opened in the presence of proper + witnesses, goes privately himself, takes the papers found into his own + possession, and then makes an application for a committee to examine + them. Under these suspicious and mysterious appearances, we are told + that many letters, &c. are found, which inculpate the King; and perhaps + the fate of this unfortunate Monarch is to be decided by evidence not + admissible with justice in the case of the obscurest malefactor. Yet + Rolland is the hero of a party who call him, par excellence, the virtuous + Rolland! Perhaps you will think, with me, that this epithet is + misapplied to a man who has risen, from an obscure situation to that of + first Minister, without being possessed of talents of that brilliant or + prominent class which sometimes force themselves into notice, without the + aid of wealth or the support of patronage. +</p> +<p> + Rolland was inspector of manufactories in this place, and afterwards at + Lyons; and I do not go too far in advancing, that a man of very rigid + virtue could not, from such a station, have attained so suddenly the one + he now possesses. Virtue is of an unvarying and inflexible nature: it + disdains as much to be the flatterer of mobs, as the adulator of Princes: + yet how often must he, who rises so far above his equals, have stooped + below them? How often must he have sacrificed both his reason and his + principles? How often have yielded to the little, and opposed the great, + not from conviction, but interest? For in this the meanest of mankind + resemble the most exalted; he bestows not his confidence on him who + resists his will, nor subscribes to the advancement of one whom he does + not hope to influence.—I may almost venture to add, that more + dissimulation, meaner concessions, and more tortuous policy, are + requisite to become the idol of the people, than are practised to acquire + and preserve the favour of the most potent Monarch in Europe. The + French, however, do not argue in this manner, and Rolland is at present + very popular, and his popularity is said to be greatly supported by the + literary talents of his wife. +</p> +<p> + I know not if you rightly understand these party distinctions among a set + of men whom you must regard as united in the common cause of establishing + a republic in France, but you have sometimes had occasion to remark in + England, that many may amicably concur in the accomplishment of a work, + who differ extremely about the participation of its advantages; and this + is already the case with the Convention. Those who at present possess + all the power, and are infinitely the strongest, are wits, moralists, and + philosophers by profession, having Brissot, Rolland, Petion, Concorcet, + &c. at their head; their opponents are adventurers of a more desperate + cast, who make up by violence what they want in numbers, and are led by + Robespierre, Danton, Chabot, &c. &c. The only distinction of these + parties is, I believe, that the first are vain and systematical + hypocrites, who have originally corrupted the minds of the people by + visionary and insidious doctrines, and now maintain their superiority by + artifice and intrigue: their opponents, equally wicked, and more daring, + justify that turpitude which the others seek to disguise, and appear + almost as bad as they are. The credulous people are duped by both; while + the cunning of the one, and the vehemence of the other, alternately + prevail.—But something too much of politics, as my design is in general + rather to mark their effect on the people, than to enter on more + immediate discussions. +</p> +<p> + Having been at the Criminal Tribunal to-day, I now recollect that I have + never yet described to you the costume of the French Judges.—Perhaps + when I have before had occasion to speak of it, your imagination may have + glided to Westminster Hall, and depicted to you the scarlet robes and + voluminous wigs of its respectable magistrates: but if you would form an + idea of a magistrate here, you must bring your mind to the abstraction of + Crambo, and figure to yourself a Judge without either gown, wig, or any + of those venerable appendages. Nothing indeed can be more becoming or + gallant, than this judicial accoutrement—it is black, with a silk cloak + of the same colour, in the Spanish form, and a round hat, turned up + before, with a large plume of black feathers. This, when the magistrate + happens to be young, has a very theatrical and romantic appearance; but + when it is worn by a figure a little Esopian, or with a large bushy + perriwig, as I have sometimes seen it, the effect is still less awful; + and a stranger, on seeing such an apparition in the street, is tempted to + suppose it a period of jubilee, and that the inhabitants are in + masquerade. +</p> +<p> + It is now the custom for all people to address each other by the + appellation of Citizen; and whether you are a citizen or not—whether you + inhabit Paris, or are a native of Peru—still it is an indication of + aristocracy, either to exact, or to use, any other title. This is all + congruous with the system of the day: the abuses are real, the reform is + imaginary. The people are flattered with sounds, while they are losing + in essentials. And the permission to apply the appellation of Citizen to + its members, is but a poor compensation for the despotism of a department + or a municipality. +</p> +<p> + In vain are the people flattered with a chimerical equality—it cannot + exist in a civilized state, and if it could exist any where, it would not + be in France. The French are habituated to subordination—they naturally + look up to something superior—and when one class is degraded, it is only + to give place to another. +</p> +<p> + —The pride of the noblesse is succeeded by the pride of the merchant— + the influence of wealth is again realized by cheap purchases of the + national domains—the abandoned abbey becomes the delight of the opulent + trader, and replaces the demolished chateau of the feudal institution. + Full of the importance which the commercial interest is to acquire under + a republic, the wealthy man of business is easily reconciled to the + oppression of the superior classes, and enjoys, with great dignity, his + new elevation. The counting-house of a manufacturer of woollen cloth is + as inaccessible as the boudoir of a Marquis; while the flowered brocade + gown and well-powdered curls of the former offer a much more imposing + exterior than the chintz robe de chambre and dishevelled locks of the + more affable man of fashion. +</p> +<p> + I have read, in some French author, a maxim to this effect:—"Act with + your friends as though they should one day be your enemies;" and the + existing government seems amply to have profited by the admonition of + their country-man: for notwithstanding they affirm, that all France + supports, and all England admires them, this does not prevent their + exercising a most vigilant inquisition over the inhabitants of both + countries.—It is already sagaciously hinted, that Mr. Thomas Paine may + be a spy, and every householder who receives a lodger or visitor, and + every proprietor who lets a house, is obliged to register the names of + those he entertains, or who are his tenants, and to become responsible + for their conduct. This is done at the municipality, and all who thus + venture to change their residence, of whatever age, sex, or condition, + must present themselves, and submit to an examination. The power of the + municipalities is indeed very great; and as they are chiefly selected + from the lower class of shop-keepers, you may conclude that their + authority is not exercised with much politeness or moderation. +</p> +<p> + The timid or indolent inhabitant of London, whose head has been filled + with the Bastilles and police of the ancient government, and who would as + soon have ventured to Constantinople as to Paris, reads, in the debates + of the Convention, that France is now the freeest country in the world, + and that strangers from all corners of it flock to offer their adorations + in this new Temple of Liberty. Allured by these descriptions, he + resolves on the journey, willing, for once in his life, to enjoy a taste + of the blessing in sublimate, which he now learns has hitherto been + allowed him only in the gross element.—He experiences a thousand + impositions on landing with his baggage at Calais, but he submits to them + without murmuring, because his countrymen at Dover had, on his + embarkation, already kindly initiated him into this science of taxing the + inquisitive spirit of travellers. After inscribing his name, and + rewarding the custom-house officers for rummaging his portmanteau, he + determines to amuse himself with a walk about the town. The first + centinel he encounters stops him, because he has no cockade: he purchases + one at the next shop, (paying according to the exigency of the case,) and + is suffered to pass on. When he has settled his bill at the Auberge "a + l'Angloise," and emagines he has nothing to do but to pursue his journey, + he finds he has yet to procure himself a passport. He waits an hour and + an half for an officer, who at length appears, and with a rule in one + hand, and a pen in the other, begins to measure the height, and take an + inventory of the features of the astonished stranger. By the time this + ceremony is finished, the gates are shut, and he can proceed no farther, + till the morrow. He departs early, and is awakened twice on the road to + Boulogne to produce his passport: still, however, he keeps his temper, + concluding, that the new light has not yet made its way to the frontiers, + and that these troublesome precautions may be necessary near a port. He + continues his route, and, by degrees, becomes habituated to this regimen + of liberty; till, perhaps, on the second day, the validity of his + passport is disputed, the municipality who granted it have the reputation + of aristocracy, or the whole is informal, and he must be content to wait + while a messenger is dispatched to have it rectified, and the officers + establish the severity of their patriotism at the expence of the + stranger. +</p> +<p> + Our traveller, at length, permitted to depart, feels his patience + wonderfully diminished, execrates the regulations of the coast, and the + ignorance of small towns, and determines to stop a few days and observe + the progress of freedom at Ameins. Being a large commercial place, he + here expects to behold all the happy effects of the new constitution; he + congratulates himself on travelling at a period when he can procure + information, and discuss his political opinions, unannoyed by fears of + state prisons, and spies of the police. His landlord, however, acquaints + him, that his appearance at the Town House cannot be dispensed with—he + attends three or four different hours of appointment, and is each time + sent away, (after waiting half an hour with the valets de ville in the + antichamber,) and told that the municipal officers are engaged. As an + Englishman, he has little relish for these subordinate sovereigns, and + difficult audiences—he hints at the next coffee-house that he had + imagined a stranger might have rested two days in a free country, without + being measured, and questioned, and without detailing his history, as + though he were suspected of desertion; and ventures on some implied + comparison between the ancient "Monsieur le Commandant," and the modern + "Citoyen Maire."—To his utter astonishment he finds, that though there + are no longer emissaries of the police, there are Jacobin informers; his + discourse is reported to the municipality, his business in the town + becomes the subject of conjecture, he is concluded to be <i>"un homme sans + aveu,"</i> [One that can't give a good account of himself.] and arrested as + "suspect;" and it is not without the interference of the people to whom + he may have been recommended at Paris, that he is released, and enabled + to continue his journey. +</p> +<p> + At Paris he lives in perpetual alarm. One night he is disturbed by a + visite domiciliaire, another by a riot—one day the people are in + insurrection for bread, and the next murdering each other at a public + festival; and our country-man, even after making every allowance for the + confusion of a recent change, thinks himself very fortunate if he reaches + England in safety, and will, for the rest of his life, be satisfied with + such a degree of liberty as is secured to him by the constitution of his + own country. +</p> +<p> + You see I have no design of tempting you to pay us a visit; and, to speak + the truth, I think those who are in England will show their wisdom by + remaining there. Nothing but the state of Mrs. D____'s health, and her + dread of the sea at this time of the year, detains us; for every day + subtracts from my courage, and adds to my apprehensions. +</p> +<p> + —Yours, &c. +</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11992 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/11992-h/images/cover.jpg b/11992-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6246acc --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/11992-h/images/p2-1.jpg b/11992-h/images/p2-1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5555dae --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/p2-1.jpg diff --git a/11992-h/images/p2-119.jpg b/11992-h/images/p2-119.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52c0a3d --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/p2-119.jpg diff --git a/11992-h/images/p2-119a.jpg b/11992-h/images/p2-119a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb8c472 --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/p2-119a.jpg diff --git a/11992-h/images/p2-291.jpg b/11992-h/images/p2-291.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef8fb99 --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/p2-291.jpg diff --git a/11992-h/images/title.jpg b/11992-h/images/title.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..080c8d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/11992-h/images/title.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Residence in France During the Years 1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, Part I. 1792 + Described in a Series of Letters from an English Lady: With General + and Incidental Remarks on the French Character and Manners + + +Author: An English Lady + +Release Date: April 11, 2004 [EBook #11992] +[Last updated on February 17, 2007] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, 1792 *** + + + + +Produced by Mary Munarin and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="cover (83K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="914" width="749" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + + +<h1>A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE,<br /><br /> + +DURING THE YEARS <br /><br /> + +1792, 1793, 1794, and 1795</h1> +<br /><br /> +<h3>DESCRIBED IN A SERIES OF LETTERS<br /> +FROM AN ENGLISH LADY; <br /> +With General And Incidental Remarks<br /> +On The French Character And Manners.</h3> +<br /><br /> +<h4>Prepared for the Press<br /> +By John Gifford, Esq.<br /> +<br /> + + + +Second Edition.<br /><br /> + +<i>Plus je vis l'Etranger plus j'aimai ma Patrie.</i><br /> +—Du Belloy.<br /><br /> + + +London: Printed for T. N. Longman, Paternoster Row. 1797.</h4> +<br /><br /><br /> + + + + + + + +<h1> + 1792 +</h1> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h2>SAMPLE PAGES FROM THE SECOND VOLUME</h2> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="title (50K)" src="images/title.jpg" height="753" width="450" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-1 (65K)" src="images/p2-1.jpg" height="753" width="457" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-119 (153K)" src="images/p2-119.jpg" height="839" width="1091" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + +<br><br> +<center> +<img alt="p2-291 (163K)" src="images/p2-291.jpg" height="840" width="1139" /> +</center> +<br><br> + + + + +<hr> +<blockquote> +<p class="toc"><big><b>CONTENTS</b></big></p><br /> + + + + +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_1"> +PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. +</a></p> + +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_3"> +DEDICATION +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2HPRE4"> +PREFACE +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_5"> +<b>A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE.</b> +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_6"> +May 10, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_7"> +May, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_8"> +June 10, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_9"> +June 24, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_10"> +July 24, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_11"> +August 4, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_12"> +August 15. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_13"> +August 22, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_14"> +Hesdin. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_15"> +Arras, August, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_16"> +Lisle, August, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_17"> +Lisle. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_18"> +Lisle, Saturday. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_19"> +Arras, September 1, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_20"> +Arras, September. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_21"> +Arras. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_22"> +Arras. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_23"> +September 2, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_24"> +September 4. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_25"> +Arras, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_26"> +Arras, September 14, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_27"> +St. Omer, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_28"> +September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_29"> +Amiens, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_30"> +Abbeville, September, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_31"> +October, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_32"> +Amiens, October, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_33"> +Amiens, November, 1792. +</a></p> +<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_4_34"> +December, 1792. +</a></p> +</blockquote> + +<br /><br /> +<hr> +<br /><br /> + + +<a name="2H_4_1"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. +</h2> +<p> + The following Letters were submitted to my inspection and judgement by + the Author, of whose principles and abilities I had reason to entertain a + very high opinion. How far my judgement has been exercised to advantage + in enforcing the propriety of introducing them to the public, that public + must decide. To me, I confess, it appeared, that a series of important + facts, tending to throw a strong light on the internal state of France, + during the most important period of the Revolution, could neither prove + uninteresting to the general reader, nor indifferent to the future + historian of that momentous epoch; and I conceived, that the opposite and + judicious reflections of a well-formed and well-cultivated mind, + naturally arising out of events within the immediate scope of its own + observation, could not in the smallest degree diminish the interest + which, in my apprehension, they are calculated to excite. My advice upon + this occasion was farther influenced by another consideration. Having + traced, with minute attention, the progress of the revolution, and the + conduct of its advocates, I had remarked the extreme affiduity employed + (as well by translations of the most violent productions of the Gallic + press, as by original compositions,) to introduce and propagate, in + foreign countries, those pernicious principles which have already sapped + the foundation of social order, destroyed the happiness of millions, and + spread desolation and ruin over the finest country in Europe. I had + particularly observed the incredible efforts exerted in England, and, I + am sorry to say, with too much success, for the base purpose of giving a + false colour to every action of the persons exercising the powers of + government in France; and I had marked, with indignation, the atrocious + attempt to strip vice of its deformity, to dress crime in the garb of + virtue, to decorate slavery with the symbols of freedom, and give to + folly the attributes of wisdom. I had seen, with extreme concern, men, + whom the lenity, mistaken lenity, I must call it, of our government had + rescued from punishment, if not from ruin, busily engaged in this + scandalous traffic, and, availing themselves of their extensive + connections to diffuse, by an infinite variety of channels, the poison of + democracy over their native land. In short, I had seen the British + press, the grand palladium of British liberty, devoted to the cause of + Gallic licentiousness, that mortal enemy of all freedom, and even the + pure stream of British criticism diverted from its natural course, and + polluted by the pestilential vapours of Gallic republicanism. I + therefore deemed it essential, by an exhibition of well-authenticated + facts, to correct, as far as might be, the evil effects of + misrepresentation and error, and to defend the empire of truth, which had + been assailed by a host of foes. +</p> +<p> + My opinion of the principles on which the present system of government in + France was founded, and the war to which those principles gave rise, have + been long since submitted to the public. Subsequent events, far from + invalidating, have strongly confirmed it. In all the public declarations + of the Directory, in their domestic polity, in their conduct to foreign + powers, I plainly trace the prevalence of the same principles, the same + contempt for the rights and happiness of the people, the same spirit of + aggression and aggrandizement, the same eagerness to overturn the + existing institutions of neighbouring states, and the same desire to + promote "the universal revolution of Europe," which marked the conduct of + BRISSOT, LE BRUN, DESMOULINS, ROBESPIERRE, and their disciples. Indeed, + what stronger instance need be adduced of the continued prevalence of + these principles, than the promotion to the supreme rank in the state, of + two men who took an active part in the most atrocious proceedings of the + Convention at the close of 1792, and at the commencement of the following + year? +</p> +<p> + In all the various constitutions which have been successively adopted + in that devoted country, the welfare of the people has been wholly + disregarded, and while they have been amused with the shadow of liberty, + they have been cruelly despoiled of the substance. Even on the + establishment of the present constitution, the one which bore the nearest + resemblance to a rational system, the freedom of election, which had been + frequently proclaimed as the very corner-stone of liberty, was shamefully + violated by the legislative body, who, in their eagerness to perpetuate + their own power, did not scruple to destroy the principle on which it was + founded. Nor is this the only violation of their own principles. A + French writer has aptly observed, that "En revolution comme en morale, ce + n'est que le premier pas qui coute:" thus the executive, in imitation of + the legislative body, seem disposed to render their power perpetual. For + though it be expressly declared by the 137th article of the 6th title of + their present constitutional code, that the "Directory shall be partially + renewed by the election of a new member every year," no step towards such + election has been taken, although the time prescribed by the law is + elapsed.—In a private letter from Paris now before me, written within + these few days, is the following observation on this very circumstance: + "The constitution has received another blow. The month of Vendemiaire is + past, and our Directors still remain the same. Hence we begin to drop + the appalation of Directory, and substitute that of the Cinqvir, who are + more to be dreaded for their power, and more to be detested for their + crimes, than the Decemvir of ancient Rome." The same letter also + contains a brief abstract of the state of the metropolis of the French + republic, which is wonderfully characteristic of the attention of the + government to the welfare and happiness of its inhabitants! +</p> +<p> + "The reign of misery and of crime seems to be perpetuated in this + distracted capital: suicides, pillage, and assassinations, are daily + committed, and are still suffered to pass unnoticed. But what renders + our situation still more deplorable, is the existence of an innumerable + band of spies, who infest all public places, and all private societies. + More than a hundred thousand of these men are registered on the books of + the modern SARTINE; and as the population of Paris, at most, does not + exceed six hundred thousand souls, we are sure to find in six individuals + one spy. This consideration makes me shudder, and, accordingly, all + confidence, and all the sweets of social intercourse, are banished from + among us. People salute each other, look at each other, betray mutual + suspicions, observe a profound silence, and part. This, in few words, is + an exact description of our modern republican parties. It is said, that + poverty has compelled many respectable persons, and even state-creditors, + to enlist under the standard of COCHON, (the Police Minister,) because + such is the honourable conduct of our sovereigns, that they pay their + spies in specie—and their soldiers, and the creditors of the state, in + paper.—Such is the morality, such the justice, such are the republican + virtues, so loudly vaunted by our good and dearest friends, our + pensioners—the Gazetteers of England and Germany!" +</p> +<p> + There is not a single abuse, which the modern reformers reprobated so + loudly under the ancient system, that is not magnified, in an infinite + degree, under the present establishment. For one Lettre de Cachet issued + during the mild reign of LOUIS the Sixteenth, a thousand Mandats d'Arret + have been granted by the tyrannical demagogues of the revolution; for one + Bastile which existed under the Monarchy, a thousand Maisons de Detention + have been established by the Republic. In short, crimes of every + denomination, and acts of tyranny and injustice, of every kind, have + multiplied, since the abolition of royalty, in a proportion which sets + all the powers of calculation at defiance. +</p> +<p> + It is scarcely possible to notice the present situation of France, + without adverting to the circumstances of the WAR, and to the attempt now + making, through the medium of negotiation, to bring it to a speedy + conclusion. Since the publication of my Letter to a Noble Earl, now + destined to chew the cud of disappointment in the vale of obscurity, I + have been astonished to hear the same assertions advance, by the members + and advocates of that party whose merit is said to consist in the + violence of their opposition to the measures of government, on the origin + of the war, which had experienced the most ample confutation, without the + assistance of any additional reason, and without the smallest attempt to + expose the invalidity of those proofs which, in my conception, amounted + nearly to mathematical demonstration, and which I had dared them, in + terms the most pointed, to invalidate. The question of aggression before + stood on such high ground, that I had not the presumption to suppose it + could derive an accession of strength from any arguments which I could + supply; but I was confident, that the authentic documents which I offered + to the public would remove every intervening object that tended to + obstruct the fight of inattentive observers, and reflect on it such an + additional light as would flash instant conviction on the minds of all. + It seems, I have been deceived; but I must be permitted to suggest, that + men who persist in the renewal of assertions, without a single effort to + controvert the proofs which have been adduced to demonstrate their + fallacy, cannot have for their object the establishment of truth—which + ought, exclusively, to influence the conduct of public characters, + whether writers or orators. +</p> +<p> + With regard to the negotiation, I can derive not the smallest hopes of + success from a contemplation of the past conduct, or of the present + principles, of the government of France. When I compare the projects of + aggrandizement openly avowed by the French rulers, previous to the + declaration of war against this country, with the exorbitant pretensions + advanced in the arrogant reply of the Executive Directory to the note + presented by the British Envoy at Basil in the month of February, 1796, + and with the more recent observations contained in their official note of + the 19th of September last, I cannot think it probable that they will + accede to any terms of peace that are compatible with the interest and + safety of the Allies. Their object is not so much the establishment as + the extension of their republic. +</p> +<p> + As to the danger to be incurred by a treaty of peace with the republic of + France, though it has been considerably diminished by the events of the + war, it is still unquestionably great. This danger principally arises + from a pertinacious adherence, on the part of the Directory, to those + very principles which were adopted by the original promoters of the + abolition of Monarchy in France. No greater proof of such adherence need + be required than their refusal to repeal those obnoxious decrees (passed + in the months of November and December, 1792,) which created so general + and so just an alarm throughout Europe, and which excited the reprobation + even of that party in England, which was willing to admit the equivocal + interpretation given to them by the Executive Council of the day. I + proved, in the Letter to a Noble Earl before alluded to, from the very + testimony of the members of that Council themselves, as exhibited in + their official instructions to one of their confidential agents, that the + interpretation which they had assigned to those decrees, in their + communications with the British Ministry, was a base interpretation, and + that they really intended to enforce the decrees, to the utmost extent of + their possible operation, and, by a literal construction thereof, to + encourage rebellion in every state, within the reach of their arms or + their principles. Nor have the present government merely forborne to + repeal those destructive laws—they have imitated the conduct of their + predecessors, have actually put them in execution wherever they had the + ability to do so, and have, in all respects, as far as related to those + decrees, adopted the precise spirit and principles of the faction which + declared war against England. Let any man read the instructions of the + Executive Council to PUBLICOLA CHAUSSARD, their Commissary in the + Netherlands, in 1792 and 1793, and an account of the proceedings in the + Low Countries consequent thereon, and then examine the conduct of the + republican General, BOUNAPARTE, in Italy—who must necessarily act from + the instructions of the Executive Directory——and he will be compelled + to acknowledge the justice of my remark, and to admit that the latter + actuated by the same pernicious desire to overturn the settled order of + society, which invariably marked the conduct of the former. +</p> +<p> + "It is an acknowledged fact, that every revolution requires a provisional + power to regulate its disorganizing movements, and to direct the + methodical demolition of every part of the ancient social constitution.— + Such ought to be the revolutionary power. +</p> +<p> + "To whom can such power belong, but to the French, in those countries + into which they may carry their arms? Can they with safety suffer it to + be exercised by any other persons? It becomes the French republic, then, + to assume this kind of guardianship over the people whom she awakens to + Liberty!*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * <i>Considerations Generales fur l'Esprit et les Principes du Decret + du 15 Decembre</i>. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Such were the Lacedaemonian principles avowed by the French government in + 1792, and such is the Lacedaimonian policy* pursued by the French + government in 1796! It cannot then, I conceive, be contended, that a + treaty with a government still professing principles which have been + repeatedly proved to be subversive of all social order, which have been + acknowledged by their parents to have for their object the methodical + demolition of existing constitutions, can be concluded without danger or + risk. That danger, I admit, is greatly diminished, because the power + which was destined to carry into execution those gigantic projects which + constituted its object, has, by the operations of the war, been + considerably curtailed. They well may exist in equal force, but the + ability is no longer the same. +</p> +<p> + MACHIAVEL justly observes, that it was the narrow policy of the + Lacedaemonians always to destroy the ancient constitution, and establish + their own form of government, in the counties and cities which they + subdued. +</p> +<p> + But though I maintain the existence of danger in a Treaty with the + Republic of France, unless she previously repeal the decrees to which I + have adverted, and abrogate the acts to which they have given birth, I by + no means contend that it exists in such a degree as to justify a + determination, on the part of the British government, to make its removal + the sine qua non of negotiation, or peace. Greatly as I admire the + brilliant endowments of Mr. BURKE, and highly as I respect and esteem him + for the manly and decisive part which he has taken, in opposition to the + destructive anarchy of republican France, and in defence of the + constitutional freedom of Britain; I cannot either agree with him on this + point, or concur with him in the idea that the restoration of the + Monarchy of France was ever the object of the war. That the British + Ministers ardently desired that event, and were earnest in their + endeavours to promote it, is certain; not because it was the object of + the war, but because they considered it as the best means of promoting + the object of the war, which was, and is, the establishment of the safety + and tranquillity of Europe, on a solid and permanent basis. If that + object can be attained, and the republic exist, there is nothing in the + past conduct and professions of the British Ministers, that can interpose + an obstacle to the conclusion of peace. Indeed, in my apprehension, it + would be highly impolitic in any Minister, at the commencement of a war, + to advance any specific object, that attainment of which should be + declared to be the sine qua non of peace. If mortals could arrogate to + themselves the attributes of the Deity, if they could direct the course + of events, and controul the chances of war, such conduct would be + justifiable; but on no other principle, I think, can its defence be + undertaken. It is, I grant, much to be lamented, that the protection + offered to the friends of monarchy in France, by the declaration of the + 29th of October, 1793, could not be rendered effectual: as far as the + offer went it was certainly obligatory on the party who made it; but it + was merely conditional—restricted, as all similar offers necessarily + must be, by the ability to fulfil the obligation incurred. +</p> +<p> + In paying this tribute to truth, it is not my intention to retract, in + the smallest degree, the opinion I have ever professed, that the + restoration of the ancient monarchy of France would be the best possible + means not only of securing the different states of Europe from the + dangers of republican anarchy, but of promoting the real interests, + welfare, and happiness of the French people themselves. The reasons on + which this opinion is founded I have long since explained; and the + intelligence which I have since received from France, at different times, + has convinced me that a very great proportion of her inhabitants concur + in the sentiment. +</p> +<p> + The miseries resulting from the establishment of a republican system of + government have been severely felt, and deeply deplored; and I am fully + persuaded, that the subjects and tributaries of France will cordially + subscribe to the following observation on republican freedom, advanced by + a writer who had deeply studied the genius of republics: <i>"Di tutte le + fervitu dure, quella e durissima, che ti sottomette ad una republica; + l'una, perche e la piu durabile, e manco si puo sperarne d'ufare: L'altra + perche il fine della republica e enervare ed indebolire, debolire, per + accrescere il corpo suo, tutti gli altri corpi.</i>*" +</p> +<p> + JOHN GIFFORD. London, Nov. 12, 1796. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * <i>Discorsi di Nicoli Machiavelli,</i> Lib. ii. p. 88. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + P.S. Since I wrote the preceding remarks, I have been given to + understand, that by a decree, subsequent to the completion of the + constitutional code, the first partial renewal of the Executive Directory + was deferred till the month of March, 1979; and that, therefore, in this + instance, the present Directory cannot be accused of having violated the + constitution. But the guilt is only to be transferred from the Directory + to the Convention, who passed that decree, as well as some others, in + contradiction to a positive constitutional law.——-Indeed, the Directory + themselves betrayed no greater delicacy with regard to the observance of + the constitution, or M. BARRAS would never have taken his seat among + them; for the constitution expressly says, (and this positive provision + was not even modified by any subsequent mandate of the Convention,) that + no man shall be elected a member of the Directory who has not completed + his fortieth year—whereas it is notorious that Barras had not this + requisite qualification, having been born in the year 1758! +</p> + + +<hr> + +<p> + I avail myself of the opportunity afforded me by the publication of a + Second Edition to notice some insinuations which have been thrown out, + tending to question the authenticity of the work. The motives which have + induced the author to withhold from these Letters the sanction of her + name, relate not to herself, but to some friends still remaining in + France, whose safety she justly conceives might be affected by the + disclosure. Acceding to the force and propriety of these motives, yet + aware of the suspicions to which a recital of important facts, by an + anonymous writer, would naturally be exposed, and sensible, also, that a + certain description of critics would gladly avail themselves of any + opportunity for discouraging the circulation of a work which contained + principles hostile to their own; I determined to prefix my name to the + publication. By so doing, I conceived that I stood pledged for its + authenticity; and the matter has certainly been put in a proper light by + an able and respectable critic, who has observed that "Mr. GIFFORD stands + between the writer and the public," and that "his name and character are + the guarantees for the authenticity of the Letters." +</p> +<p> + This is precisely the situation in which I meant to place myself— + precisely the pledge which I meant to give. The Letters are exactly what + they profess to be; the production of a Lady's pen, and written in the + very situations which they describe.—The public can have no grounds for + suspecting my veracity on a point in which I can have no possible + interest in deceiving them; and those who know me will do me the justice + to acknowledge, that I have a mind superior to the arts of deception, and + that I am incapable of sanctioning an imposition, for any purpose, or + from any motives whatever. Thus much I deemed it necessary to say, as + well from a regard for my own character, and from a due attention to the + public, as from a wish to prevent the circulation of the work from being + subjected to the impediments arising from the prevalence of a groundless + suspicion. +</p> +<p> + I naturally expected, that some of the preceding remarks would excite the + resentment and draw down the vengeance of those persons to whom they + evidently applied. The contents of every publication are certainly a + fair subject for criticism; and to the fair comments of real critics, + however repugnant to the sentiments I entertain, or the doctrine I seek + to inculcate, I shall ever submit without murmur or reproach. But, when + men, assuming that respectable office, openly violate all the duties + attached to it, and, sinking the critic in the partizan, make a wanton + attack on my veracity, it becomes proper to repel the injurious + imputation; and the same spirit which dictates submission to the candid + award of an impartial judge, prescribes indignation and scorn at the + cowardly attacks of a secret assassin. +</p> +<p> + April 14, 1797. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_2"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + RESIDENCE IN FRANCE +</h2> +<a name="2H_4_3"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + DEDICATION +</h2> +<p> + To The RIGHT HON. EDMUND BURKE. +</p> +<p> + SIR, +</p> +<p> + It is with extreme diffidence that I offer the following pages to Your + notice; yet as they describe circumstances which more than justify Your + own prophetic reflections, and are submitted to the public eye from no + other motive than a love of truth and my country, I may, perhaps, be + excused for presuming them to be not altogether unworthy of such a + distinction. +</p> +<p> + While Your puny opponents, if opponents they may be called, are either + sunk into oblivion, or remembered only as associated with the degrading + cause they attempted to support, every true friend of mankind, + anticipating the judgement of posterity, views with esteem and veneration + the unvarying Moralist, the profound Politician, the indefatigable + Servant of the Public, and the warm Promoter of his country's happiness. +</p> +<p> + To this universal testimony of the great and good, permit me, Sir, to + join my humble tribute; being, with the utmost respect, +</p> +<p> + SIR, +</p> +<p> + Your obedient Servant, THE AUTHOR. Sept. 12, 1796. +</p> +<a name="2HPRE4"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + PREFACE +</h2> +<p> + After having, more than once, in the following Letters, expressed + opinions decidedly unfavourable to female authorship, when not justified + by superior talents, I may, by now producing them to the public, subject + myself to the imputation either of vanity or inconsistency; and I + acknowledge that a great share of candour and indulgence must be + possessed by readers who attend to the apologies usually made on such + occasions: yet I may with the strictest truth alledge, that I should + never have ventured to offer any production of mine to the world, had I + not conceived it possible that information and reflections collected and + made on the spot, during a period when France exhibited a state, of which + there is no example in the annals of mankind, might gratify curiosity + without the aid of literary embellishment; and an adherence to truth, I + flattered myself, might, on a subject of this nature, be more acceptable + than brilliancy of thought, or elegance of language. The eruption of a + volcano may be more scientifically described and accounted for by the + philosopher; but the relation of the illiterate peasant who beheld it, + and suffered from its effects, may not be less interesting to the common + hearer. +</p> +<p> + Above all, I was actuated by the desire of conveying to my countrymen a + just idea of that revolution which they have been incited to imitate, and + of that government by which it has been proposed to model our own. +</p> +<p> + Since these pages were written, the Convention has nominally been + dissolved, and a new constitution and government have succeeded, but no + real change of principle or actors has taken place; and the system, of + which I have endeavoured to trace the progress, must still be considered + as existing, with no other variations than such as have been necessarily + produced by the difference of time and circumstances. The people grew + tired of massacres en masse, and executions en detail: even the national + fickleness operated in favour of humanity; and it was also discovered, + that however a spirit of royalism might be subdued to temporary inaction, + it was not to be eradicated, and that the sufferings of its martyrs only + tended to propagate and confirm it. Hence the scaffolds flow less + frequently with blood, and the barbarous prudence of CAMILLE DESMOULINS' + guillotine economique has been adopted. But exaction and oppression are + still practised in every shape, and justice is not less violated, nor is + property more secure, than when the former was administered by + revolutionary tribunals, and the latter was at the disposition of + revolutionary armies. +</p> +<p> + The error of supposing that the various parties which have usurped the + government of France have differed essentially from each other is pretty + general; and it is common enough to hear the revolutionary tyranny + exclusively associated with the person of ROBESPIERRE, and the + thirty-first of May, 1793, considered as the epoch of its introduction. + Yet whoever examines attentively the situation and politics of France, + from the subversion of the Monarchy, will be convinced that all the + principles of this monstrous government were established during the + administration of the Brissotins, and that the factions which succeeded, + from Danton and Robespierre to Sieyes and Barras, have only developed + them, and reduced them to practice. The revolution of the thirty-first + of May, 1793, was not a contest for system but for power—that of July + the twenty-eighth, 1794, (9th Thermidor,) was merely a struggle which of + two parties should sacrifice the other—that of October the fifth, 1795, + (13th Vendemiaire,) a war of the government against the people. But in + all these convulsions, the primitive doctrines of tyranny and injustice + were watched like the sacred fire, and have never for a moment been + suffered to languish. +</p> +<p> + It may appear incredible to those who have not personally witnessed this + phoenomenon, that a government detested and despised by an immense + majority of the nation, should have been able not only to resist the + efforts of so many powers combined against it, but even to proceed from + defence to conquest, and to mingle surprize and terror with those + sentiments of contempt and abhorrence which it originally excited. +</p> +<p> + That wisdom or talents are not the sources of this success, may be + deduced from the situation of France itself. The armies of the republic + have, indeed, invaded the territories of its enemies, but the desolation + of their own country seems to increase with every triumph—the genius of + the French government appears powerful only in destruction, and inventive + only in oppression—and, while it is endowed with the faculty of + spreading universal ruin, it is incapable of promoting the happiness of + the smallest district under its protection. The unrestrained pillage of + the conquered countries has not saved France from multiplied + bankruptcies, nor her state-creditors from dying through want; and + the French, in the midst of their external prosperity, are often + distinguished from the people whom their armies have been subjugated, + only by a superior degree of wretchedness, and a more irregular + despotism. +</p> +<p> + With a power excessive and unlimited, and surpassing what has hitherto + been possessed by any Sovereign, it would be difficult to prove that + these democratic despots have effected any thing either useful or + beneficent. Whatever has the appearance of being so will be found, on + examination, to have for its object some purpose of individual interest + or personal vanity. They manage the armies, they embellish Paris, they + purchase the friendship of some states and the neutrality of others; but + if there be any real patriots in France, how little do they appreciate + these useless triumphs, these pilfered museums, and these fallacious + negotiations, when they behold the population of their country + diminished, its commerce annihilated, its wealth dissipated, its morals + corrupted, and its liberty destroyed— +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + "Thus, on deceitful Aetna's Flow'ry side + Unfading verdure glads the roving eye, + While secret flames with unextinguish'd rage + Insatiate on her wafted entrails prey, + And melt her treach'rous beauties into ruin." +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + +<p> + Those efforts which the partizans of republicanism admire, and which even + well-disposed persons regard as prodigies, are the simple and natural + result of an unprincipled despotism, acting upon, and disposing of, all + the resources of a rich, populous, and enslaved nation. <i>"Il devient aise + d'etre habile lorsqu'on s'est delivre des scrupules et des loix, de tout + honneur et de toute justice, des droits de ses semblables, et des devoirs + de l'autorite—a ce degre d'independence la plupart des obstacles qui + modifient l'activite humaine disparaissent; l'on parait avoir du talent + lorsqu'on n'a que de l'impudence, et l'abus de la force passe pour + energie.</i>*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * "Exertions of ability become easy, when men have released + themselves from the scruples of conscience, the restraints of law, + the ties of honour, the bonds of justice, the claims of their fellow + creatures, and obedience to their superiors:—at this point of + independence, most of the obstacles which modify human activity + disappear; impudence is mistaken for talents; and the abuse of power + passes for energy." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The operations of all other governments must, in a great measure, be + restrained by the will of the people, and by established laws; with them, + physical and political force are necessarily separate considerations: + they have not only to calculate what can be borne, but what will be + submitted to; and perhaps France is the first country that has been + compelled to an exertion of its whole strength, without regard to any + obstacle, natural, moral, or divine. It is for want of sufficiently + investigating and allowing for this moral and political latitudinarianism + of our enemies, that we are apt to be too precipitate in censuring the + conduct of the war; and, in our estimation of what has been done, we pay + too little regard to the principles by which we have been directed. An + honest man could scarcely imagine the means we have had to oppose, and an + Englishman still less conceive that they would have been submitted to: + for the same reason that the Romans had no law against parricide, till + experience had evinced the possibility of the crime. +</p> +<p> + In a war like the present, advantage is not altogether to be appreciated + by military superiority. If, as there is just ground for believing, our + external hostilities have averted an internal revolution, what we have + escaped is of infinitely more importance to us than what we could + acquire. Commerce and conquest, compared to this, are secondary objects; + and the preservation of our liberties and our constitution + is a more solid blessing than the commerce of both the Indies, or the + conquest of nations. +</p> +<p> + Should the following pages contribute to impress this salutary truth on + my countrymen, my utmost ambition will be gratified; persuaded, that a + sense of the miseries they have avoided, and of the happiness they enjoy, + will be their best incentive, whether they may have to oppose the arms of + the enemy in a continuance of the war, or their more dangerous + machinations on the restoration of peace. +</p> +<p> + I cannot conclude without noticing my obligations to the Gentleman whose + name is prefixed to these volumes; and I think it at the same time + incumbent on me to avow, that, in having assisted the author, he must not + be considered as sanctioning the literary imperfections of the work. + When the subject was first mentioned to him, he did me the justice of + supposing, that I was not likely to have written any thing, the general + tendency of which he might disapprove; and when, on perusing the + manuscript, he found it contain sentiments dissimilar to his own, he was + too liberal to require a sacrifice of them as the condition of his + services.—I confess that previous to my arrival in France in 1792, I + entertained opinions somewhat more favourable to the principle of the + revolution than those which I was led to adopt at a subsequent period. + Accustomed to regard with great justice the British constitution as the + standard of known political excellence, I hardly conceived it possible + that freedom or happiness could exist under any other: and I am not + singular in having suffered this prepossession to invalidate even the + evidence of my senses. I was, therefore, naturally partial to whatever + professed to approach the object of my veneration. I forgot that + governments are not to be founded on imitations or theories, and that + they are perfect only as adapted to the genius, manners, and disposition + of the people who are subject to them. Experience and maturer judgement + have corrected my error, and I am perfectly convinced, that the old + monarchical constitution of France, with very slight meliorations, was + every way better calculated for the national character than a more + popular form of government. +</p> +<p> + A critic, though not very severe, will discover many faults of style, + even where the matter may not be exceptionable. Besides my other + deficiencies, the habit of writing is not easily supplied, and, as I + despaired of attaining excellence, and was not solicitous about degrees + of mediocrity, I determined on conveying to the public such information + as I was possessed of, without alteration or ornament. Most of these + Letters were written exactly in the situation they describe, and remain + in their original state; the rest were arranged according as + opportunities were favourable, from notes and diaries kept when "the + times were hot and feverish," and when it would have been dangerous to + attempt more method. I forbear to describe how they were concealed + either in France or at my departure, because I might give rise to the + persecution and oppression of others. But, that I may not attribute to + myself courage which I do not possess, nor create doubts of my veracity, + I must observe, that I seldom ventured to write till I was assured of + some certain means of conveying my papers to a person who could safely + dispose of them. +</p> +<p> + As a considerable period has elapsed since my return, it may not be + improper to add, that I took some steps for the publication of these + Letters so early as July, 1795. Certain difficulties, however, arising, + of which I was not aware, I relinquished my design, and should not have + been tempted to resume it, but for the kindness of the Gentleman whose + name appears as the Editor. +</p> +<p> + Sept. 12, 1796. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_5"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE. +</h2> +<a name="2H_4_6"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + May 10, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I am every day more confirmed in the opinion I communicated to you on my + arrival, that the first ardour of the revolution is abated.—The bridal + days are indeed past, and I think I perceive something like indifference + approaching. Perhaps the French themselves are not sensible of this + change; but I who have been absent two years, and have made as it were a + sudden transition from enthusiasm to coldness, without passing through + the intermediate gradations, am forcibly struck with it. When I was here + in 1790, parties could be scarcely said to exist—the popular triumph was + too complete and too recent for intolerance and persecution, and the + Noblesse and Clergy either submitted in silence, or appeared to rejoice + in their own defeat. In fact, it was the confusion of a decisive + conquest—the victors and the vanquished were mingled together; and the + one had not leisure to exercise cruelty, nor the other to meditate + revenge. Politics had not yet divided society; nor the weakness and + pride of the great, with the malice and insolence of the little, thinned + the public places. The politics of the women went no farther than a few + couplets in praise of liberty, and the patriotism of the men was confined + to an habit de garde nationale, the device of a button, or a nocturnal + revel, which they called mounting guard.—Money was yet plenty, at least + silver, (for the gold had already begun to disappear,) commerce in its + usual train, and, in short, to one who observes no deeper than myself, + every thing seemed gay and flourishing—the people were persuaded they + were happier; and, amidst such an appearance of content, one must have + been a cold politician to have examined too strictly into the future. + But all this, my good brother, is in a great measure subsided; and the + disparity is so evident, that I almost imagine myself one of the seven + sleepers—and, like them too, the coin I offer is become rare, and + regarded more as medals than money. The playful distinctions of + Aristocrate and Democrate are degenerated into the opprobium and + bitterness of Party—political dissensions pervade and chill the common + intercourse of life—the people are become gross and arbitrary, and the + higher classes (from a pride which those who consider the frailty of + human nature will allow for) desert the public amusements, where they + cannot appear but at the risk of being the marked objects of insult.—The + politics of the women are no longer innoxious—their political principles + form the leading trait of their characters; and as you know we are often + apt to supply by zeal what we want in power, the ladies are far from + being the most tolerant partizans on either side.—The national uniform, + which contributed so much to the success of the revolution, and + stimulated the patriotism of the young men, is become general; and the + task of mounting guard, to which it subjects the wearer, is now a serious + and troublesome duty.—To finish my observations, and my contrast, no + Specie whatever is to be seen; and the people, if they still idolize + their new form of government, do it at present with great sobriety—the + Vive la nation! seems now rather the effect of habit than of feeling; and + one seldom hears any thing like the spontaneous and enthusiastic sounds I + formerly remarked. +</p> +<p> + I have not yet been here long enough to discover the causes of this + change; perhaps they may lie too deep for such an observer as myself: but + if (as the causes of important effects sometimes do) they lie on the + surface, they will be less liable to escape me, than an observer of more + pretentions. Whatever my remarks are, I will not fail to communicate + them—the employment will at least be agreeable to me, though the result + should not be satisfactory to you; and as I shall never venture on any + reflection, without relating the occurrence that gave rise to it, your + own judgement will enable you to correct the errors of mine. +</p> +<p> + I was present yesterday at a funeral service, performed in honour of + General Dillon. This kind of service is common in Catholic countries, + and consists in erecting a cenotaph, ornamented with numerous lights, + flowers, crosses, &c. The church is hung with black, and the mass is + performed the same as if the body were present. On account of General + Dillon's profession, the mass yesterday was a military one. It must + always, I imagine, sound strange to the ears of a Protestant, to hear + nothing but theatrical music on these occasions, and indeed I could never + reconcile myself to it; for if we allow any effect to music at all, the + train of thought which should inspire us with respect for the dead, and + reflections on mortality, is not likely to be produced by the strains in + which Dido bewails Eneas, or in which Armida assails the virtue of + Rinaldo.—I fear, that in general the air of an opera reminds the belle + of the Theatre where she heard it—and, by a natural transition, of the + beau who attended her, and the dress of herself and her neighbours. I + confess, this was nearly my own case yesterday, on hearing an air from + "Sargines;" and had not the funeral oration reminded me, I should have + forgotten the unfortunate event we were celebrating, and which, for some + days before, when undistracted by this pious ceremony, I had dwelt on + with pity and horror.*— +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * At the first skirmish between the French and Austrians near Lisle, + a general panic seized the former, and they retreated in disorder to + Lisle, crying <i>"Sauve qui peut, & nous fomnes (sic) trahis."</i>—"Let + every one shift for himself—we are betrayed." The General, after + in vain endeavouring to rally them, was massacred at his return on + the great square.—My pen faulters, and refuses to describe the + barbarities committed on the lifeless hero. Let it suffice, perhaps + more than suffice, to say, that his mutilated remains were thrown on + a fire, which these savages danced round, with yells expressive of + their execrable festivity. A young Englishman, who was so + unfortunate as to be near the spot, was compelled to join in this + outrage to humanity.—The same day a gentleman, the intimate friend + of our acquaintance, Mad. _____, was walking (unconscious what had + happened) without the gate which leads to Douay, and was met by the + flying ruffians on their return; immediately on seeing him they + shouted, <i>"Voila encore un Aristocrate!"</i> and massacred him on the + spot. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —Independent of any regret for the fate of Dillon, who is said to have + been a brave and good officer, I am sorry that the first event of this + war should be marked by cruelty and licentiousness.—Military discipline + has been much relaxed since the revolution, and from the length of time + since the French have been engaged in a land war, many of the troops must + be without that kind of courage which is the effect of habit. The + danger, therefore, of suffering them to alledge that they are betrayed, + whenever they do not choose to fight, and to excuse their own cowardice + by ascribing treachery to their leaders, is incalculable.—Above all, + every infraction of the laws in a country just supposing itself become + free, cannot be too severely repressed. The National Assembly have done + all that humanity could suggest—they have ordered the punishment of the + assassins, and have pensioned and adopted the General's children. The + orator expatiated both on the horror of the act and its consequences, as + I should have thought, with some ingenuity, had I not been assured by a + brother orator that the whole was "execrable." But I frequently remark, + that though a Frenchman may suppose the merit of his countrymen to be + collectively superior to that of the whole world, he seldom allows any + individual of them to have so large a portion as himself.—Adieu: I have + already written enough to convince you I have neither acquired the + Gallomania, nor forgotten my friends in England; and I conclude with a + wish <i>a propos</i> to my subject—that they may long enjoy the rational + liberty they possess and so well deserve.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_7"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + May, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You, my dear _____, who live in a land of pounds, shillings, and pence, + can scarcely form an idea of our embarrassments through the want of them. + 'Tis true, these are petty evils; but when you consider that they happen + every day, and every hour, and that, if they are not very serious, they + are very frequent, you will rejoice in the splendour of your national + credit, which procures you all the accommodation of paper currency, + without diminishing the circulation of specie. Our only currency here + consists of assignats of 5 livres, 50, 100, 200, and upwards: therefore + in making purchases, you must accommodate your wants to the value of your + assignat, or you must owe the shopkeeper, or the shopkeeper must owe you; + and, in short, as an old woman assured me to-day, "C'est de quoi faire + perdre la tete," and, if it lasted long, it would be the death of her. + Within these few days, however, the municipalities have attempted to + remedy the inconvenience, by creating small paper of five, ten, fifteen, + and twenty sols, which they give in exchange for assignats of five + livres; but the number they are allowed to issue is limited, and the + demand for them so great, that the accommodation is inadequate to the + difficulty of procuring it. On the days on which this paper (which is + called billets de confiance) is issued, the Hotel de Ville is besieged by + a host of women collected from all parts of the district—Peasants, small + shopkeepers, fervant maids, and though last, not least formidable— + fishwomen. They usually take their stand two or three hours before the + time of delivery, and the interval is employed in discussing the news, + and execrating paper money. But when once the door is opened, a scene + takes place which bids defiance to language, and calls for the pencil of + a Hogarth. Babel was, I dare say, comparatively to this, a place of + retreat and silence. Clamours, revilings, contentions, tearing of hair, + and breaking of heads, generally conclude the business; and, after the + loss of half a day's time, some part of their clothes, and the expence of + a few bruises, the combatants retire with small bills to the value of + five, or perhaps ten livres, as the whole resource to carry on their + little commerce for the ensuing week. I doubt not but the paper may have + had some share in alienating the minds of the people from the revolution. + Whenever I want to purchase any thing, the vender usually answers my + question by another, and with a rueful kind of tone inquires, "En papier, + madame?"—and the bargain concludes with a melancholy reflection on the + hardness of the times. +</p> +<p> + The decrees relative to the priests have likewise occasioned much + dissension; and it seems to me impolitic thus to have made religion the + standard of party. The high mass, which is celebrated by a priest who + has taken the oaths, is frequented by a numerous, but, it must be + confessed, an ill-drest and ill-scented congregation; while the low mass, + which is later, and which is allowed the nonjuring clergy, has a gayer + audience, but is much less crouded.—By the way, I believe many who + formerly did not much disturb themselves about religious tenets, have + become rigid Papists since an adherence to the holy see has become a + criterion of political opinion. But if these separatists are bigoted and + obstinate, the conventionalists on their side are ignorant and + intolerant. +</p> +<p> + I enquired my way to-day to the Rue de l'Hopital. The woman I spoke to + asked me, in a menacing tone, what I wanted there. I replied, which was + true, that I merely wanted to pass through the street as my nearest way + home; upon which she lowered her voice, and conducted me very civilly.—I + mentioned the circumstance on my return, and found that the nuns of the + hospital had their mass performed by a priest who had not taken the + oaths, and that those who were suspected of going to attend it were + insulted, and sometimes ill treated. A poor woman, some little time ago, + who conceived perhaps that her salvation might depend on exercising her + religion in the way she had been accustomed to, persisted in going, and + was used by the populace with such a mixture of barbarity and indecency, + that her life was despaired of. Yet this is the age and the country of + Philosophers.—Perhaps you will begin to think Swift's sages, who only + amused themselves with endeavouring to propagate sheep without wool, not + so contemptible. I am almost convinced myself, that when a man once + piques himself on being a philosopher, if he does no mischief you ought + to be satisfied with him. +</p> +<p> + We passed last Sunday with Mr. de ____'s tenants in the country. Nothing + can equal the avidity of these people for news. We sat down after dinner + under some trees in the village, and Mr. de _____ began reading the + Gazette to the farmers who were about us. In a few minutes every thing + that could hear (for I leave understanding the pedantry of a French + newspaper out of the question) were his auditors. A party at quoits in + one field, and a dancing party in another, quitted their amusements, and + listened with undivided attention. I believe in general the farmers are + the people most contented with the revolution, and indeed they have + reason to be so; for at present they refuse to sell their corn unless for + money, while they pay their rent in assignats; and farms being for the + most part on leases, the objections of the landlord to this kind of + payment are of no avail. Great encouragement is likewise held out to + them to purchase national property, which I am informed they do to an + extent that may for some time be injurious to agriculture; for in their + eagerness to acquire land, the deprive themselves of cultivating it. + They do not, like our crusading ancestors, "sell the pasture to buy the + horse," but the horse to buy the pasture; so that we may expect to see in + many places large farms in the hands of those who are obliged to neglect + them. +</p> +<p> + A great change has happened within the last year, with regard to landed + property—so much has been sold, that many farmers have had the + opportunity of becoming proprietors. The rage of emigration, which the + approach of war, pride, timidity, and vanity are daily increasing, has + occasioned many of the Noblesse to sell their estates, which, with those + of the Crown and the Clergy, form a large mass of property, thrown as it + were into general circulation. This may in future be beneficial to the + country, but the present generation will perhaps have to purchase (and + not cheaply) advantages they cannot enjoy. A philanthropist may not + think of this with regret; and yet I know not why one race is preferable + to another, or why an evil should be endured by those who exist now, in + order that those who succeed may be free from it.—I would willingly + plant a million of acorns, that another age might be supplied with oaks; + but I confess, I do not think it quite so pleasant for us to want bread, + in order that our descendants may have a superfluity. +</p> +<p> + I am half ashamed of these selfish arguments; but really I have been led + to them through mere apprehension of what I fear the people may have yet + to endure, in consequence of the revolution. +</p> +<p> + I have frequently observed how little taste the French have for the + country, and I believe all my companions, except Mr. de _____, who took + (as one always does) an interest in surveying his property, were heartily + ennuyes with our little excursion.—Mad. De _____, on her arrival, took + her post by the farmer's fire-side, and was out of humour the whole day, + inasmuch as our fare was homely, and there was nothing but rustics to see + or be seen by. That a plain dinner should be a serious affair, you may + not wonder; but the last cause of distress, perhaps you will not conclude + quite so natural at her years. All that can be said about it is, that + she is a French woman, who rouges, and wears lilac ribbons, at + seventy-four. I hope, in my zeal to obey you, my reflections will not + be too voluminous.—For the present I will be warned by my conscience, + and add only, that I am, Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_8"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + June 10, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You observe, with some surprize, that I make no mention of the Jacobins— + the fact is, that until now I have heard very little about them. Your + English partizans of the revolution have, by publishing their + correspondence with these societies, attributed a consequence to them + infinitely beyond what they have had pretensions to:—a prophet, it is + said, is not honoured in his own country—I am sure a Jacobin is not. + In provincial towns these clubs are generally composed of a few of the + lowest tradesmen, who have so disinterested a patriotism, as to bestow + more attention on the state than on their own shops; and as a man may be + an excellent patriot without the aristocratic talents of reading and + writing, they usually provide a secretary or president, who can supply + these deficiencies—a country attorney, a <i>Pere de l'oratoire,</i> or a + disbanded capuchin, is in most places the candidate for this office. + The clubs often assemble only to read the newspapers; but where they + are sufficiently in force, they make motions for "fetes," censure the + municipalities, and endeavour to influence the elections of the members + who compose them.—That of Paris is supposed to consist of about six + thousand members; but I am told their number and influence are daily + increasing, and that the National Assembly is more subservient to them + than it is willing to acknowledge—yet, I believe, the people at large + are equally adverse to the Jacobins, who are said to entertain the + chimerical project of forming a republic, and to the Aristocrates, who + wish to restore the ancient government. The party in opposition to both + these, who are called the Feuillans,* have the real voice of the people + with them, and knowing this, they employ less art than their opponents, + have no point of union, and perhaps may finally be undermined by + intrigue, or even subdued by violence. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *They derive this appellation, as the Jacobins do theirs, from the + convent at which they hold their meetings. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + You seem not to comprehend why I include vanity among the causes of + emigration, and yet I assure you it has had no small share in many of + them. The gentry of the provinces, by thus imitating the higher + noblesse, imagine they have formed a kind of a common cause, which may + hereafter tend to equalize the difference of ranks, and associate them + with those they have been accustomed to look up to as their superiors. + It is a kind of ton among the women, particularly to talk of their + emigrated relations, with an accent more expressive of pride than regret, + and which seems to lay claim to distinction rather than pity. +</p> +<p> + I must now leave you to contemplate the boasted misfortunes of these + belles, that I may join the card party which forms their alleviation.— + Adieu. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_9"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + June 24, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You have doubtless learned from the public papers the late outrage of the + Jacobins, in order to force the King to consent to the formation of an + army at Paris, and to sign the decree for banishing the nonjuring Clergy. + The newspapers will describe to you the procession of the Sans-Culottes, + the indecency of their banners, and the disorders which were the result— + but it is impossible for either them or me to convey an idea of the + general indignation excited by these atrocities. Every well-meaning + person is grieved for the present, and apprehensive for the future: + and I am not without hope, that this open avowal of the designs of the + Jacobins, will unite the Constitutionalists and Aristocrates, and that + they will join their efforts in defence of the Crown, as the only means + of saving both from being overwhelmed by a faction, who are now become + too daring to be despised. Many of the municipalities and departments + are preparing to address they King, on the fortitude he displayed in this + hour of insult and peril.—I know not why, but the people have been + taught to entertain a mean opinion of his personal courage; and the late + violence will at least have the good effect of undeceiving them. It is + certain, that he behaved on this occasion with the utmost coolness; and + the Garde Nationale, whose hand he placed on his heart, attested that it + had no unusual palpitation. +</p> +<p> + That the King should be unwilling to sanction the raising an army under + the immediate auspice of the avowed enemies of himself, and of the + constitution he has sworn to protect, cannot be much wondered at; and + those who know the Catholic religion, and consider that this Prince is + devout, and that he has reason to suspect the fidelity of all who + approach him, will wonder still less that he refuses to banish a class of + men, whose influence is extensive, and whose interest it is to preserve + their attachment to him. +</p> +<p> + These events have thrown a gloom over private societies; and public + amusements, as I observed in a former letter, are little frequented; so + that, on the whole, time passes heavily with a people who, generally + speaking, have few resources in themselves. Before the revolution, + France was at this season a scene of much gaiety. Every village had + alternately a sort of Fete, which nearly answers to our Wake—but with + this difference, that it was numerously attended by all ranks, and the + amusement was dancing, instead of wrestling and drinking. Several small + fields, or different parts of a large one, were provided with music, + distinguished by flags, and appropriated to the several classes of + dancers—one for the peasants, another for the bourgeois, and a third for + the higher orders. The young people danced beneath the ardour of a July + sun, while the old looked on and regaled themselves with beer, cyder, and + gingerbread. I was always much pleased with this village festivity: it + gratified my mind more than select and expensive amusements, because it + was general, and within the power of all who chose to partake of it; and + the little distinction of rank which was preserved, far from diminishing + the pleasure of any, added, I am certain, to the freedom of all. By + mixing with those only of her own class, the Paysanne* was spared the + temptation of envying the pink ribbons of the Bourgeoise, who in her turn + was not disturbed by an immediate rivalship with the sash and plumes of + the provincial belle. But this custom is now much on the decline. The + young women avoid occasions where an inebriated soldier may offer himself + as her partner in the dance, and her refusal be attended with insult to + herself, and danger to those who protect her; and as this licence is + nearly as offensive to the decent Bourgeoise as to the female of higher + condition, this sort of fete will most probably be entirely abandoned. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The head-dress of the French <i>Paysanne</i> is uniformly a small cap, + without ribbon or ornament of any kind, except in that part of + Normandy which is called the <i>Pays de Caux,</i> where the Paysannes + wear a particular kind of head dress, ornamented with silver. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The people here all dance much better than those of the same rank in + England; but this national accomplishment is not instinctive: for though + few of the laborious class have been taught to read, there are scarcely + any so poor as not to bestow three livres for a quarter's instruction + from a dancing master; and with this three months' noviciate they become + qualified to dance through the rest of their lives. +</p> +<p> + The rage for emigration, and the approach of the Austrians, have + occasioned many restrictions on travelling, especially near the seacoast + of frontiers. No person can pass through a town without a passport from + the municipality he resides in, specifying his age, the place of his + birth, his destination, the height of his person, and the features of his + face. The Marquis de C____ entered the town yesterday, and at the gate + presented his passport as usual; the guard looked at the passport, and in + a high tone demanded his name, whence he came, and where he was going. + M. de C____ referred him to the passport, and suspecting the man could + not read, persisted in refusing to give a verbal account of himself, but + with much civility pressed the perusal of the passport; adding, that if + it was informal, Monsieur might write to the municipality that granted + it. The man, however, did not approve of the jest, and took the Marquis + before the municipality, who sentenced him to a month's imprisonment for + his pleasantry. +</p> +<p> + The French are becoming very grave, and a bon-mot will not now, as + formerly, save a man's life.—I do not remember to have seen in any + English print an anecdote on this subject, which at once marks the levity + of the Parisians, and the wit and presence of mind of the Abbe Maury.—At + the beginning of the revolution, when the people were very much incensed + against the Abbe, he was one day, on quitting the Assembly, surrounded by + an enraged mob, who seized on him, and were hurrying him away to + execution, amidst the universal cry of <i>a la lanterne! a la lanterne!</i> + The Abbe, with much coolness and good humour, turned to those nearest him, + <i>"Eh bien mes amis et quand je serois a la lanterne, en verriez vous plus + clair?"</i> Those who held him were disarmed, the bon-mot flew through the + croud, and the Abbe escaped while they were applauding it.—I have + nothing to offer after this trait which is worthy of succeeding it, but + will add that I am always Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_10"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + July 24, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Our revolution aera has passed tranquilly in the provinces, and with less + turbulence at Paris than was expected. I consign to the Gazette-writers + those long descriptions that describe nothing, and leave the mind as + unsatisfied as the eye. I content myself with observing only, that the + ceremony here was gay, impressive, and animating. I indeed have often + remarked, that the works of nature are better described than those of + art. The scenes of nature, though varied, are uniform; while the + productions of art are subject to the caprices of whim, and the + vicissitudes of taste. A rock, a wood, or a valley, however the scenery + may be diversified, always conveys a perfect and distinct image to the + mind; but a temple, an altar, a palace, or a pavilion, requires a detail, + minute even to tediousness, and which, after all, gives but an imperfect + notion of the object. I have as often read descriptions of the Vatican, + as of the Bay of Naples; yet I recollect little of the former, while the + latter seems almost familiar to me.—Many are strongly impressed with the + scenery of Milton's Paradise, who have but confused ideas of the + splendour of Pandemonium. The descriptions, however, are equally minute, + and the poetry of both is beautiful. +</p> +<p> + But to return to this country, which is not absolutely a Paradise, and I + hope will not become a Pandemonium—the ceremony I have been alluding to, + though really interesting, is by no means to be considered as a proof + that the ardour for liberty increases: on the contrary, in proportion as + these fetes become more frequent, the enthusiasm which they excite seems + to diminish. "For ever mark, Lucilius, when Love begins to sicken and + decline, it useth an enforced ceremony." When there were no + foederations, the people were more united. The planting trees of liberty + seems to have damped the spirit of freedom; and since there has been a + decree for wearing the national colours, they are more the marks of + obedience than proofs of affection.—I cannot pretend to decide whether + the leaders of the people find their followers less warm than they were, + and think it necessary to stimulate them by these shows, or whether the + shows themselves, by too frequent repetition, have rendered the people + indifferent about the objects of them.—Perhaps both these suppositions + are true. The French are volatile and material; they are not very + capable of attachment to principles. External objects are requisite for + them, even in a slight degree; and the momentary enthusiasm that is + obtained by affecting their senses subsides with the conclusion of a + favourite air, or the end of a gaudy procession. +</p> +<p> + The Jacobin party are daily gaining ground; and since they have forced a + ministry of their own on the King, their triumph has become still more + insolent and decisive.—A storm is said to be hovering over us, which I + think of with dread, and cannot communicate with safety—"Heaven square + the trial of those who are implicated, to their proportioned strength!"— + Adieu. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_11"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 4, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I must repeat to you, that I have no talent for description; and, having + seldom been able to profit by the descriptions of others, I am modest + enough not willingly to attempt one myself. But, as you observe, the + ceremony of a foederation, though familiar to me, is not so to my English + friends; I therefore obey your commands, though certain of not succeeding + so as to gratify your curiosity in the manner you too partially expect. +</p> +<p> + The temple where the ceremony was performed, was erected in an open + space, well chosen both for convenience and effect. In a large circle on + this spot, twelve posts, between fifty and sixty feet high, were placed + at equal distances, except one larger, opening in front by way of + entrance. On each alternate post were fastened ivy, laurel, &c. so as to + form a thick body which entirely hid the support. These greens were then + shorn (in the manner you see in old fashioned gardens) into the form of + Doric columns, of dimensions proportioned to their height. The + intervening posts were covered with white cloth, which was so + artificially folded, as exactly to resemble fluted pillars—from the + bases of which ascended spiral wreaths of flowers. The whole was + connected at top by a bold festoon of foliage, and the capital of each + column was surmounted by a vase of white lilies. In the middle of this + temple was placed an altar, hung round with lilies, and on it was deposed + the book of the constitution. The approach to the altar was by a large + flight of steps, covered with beautiful tapestry. +</p> +<p> + All this having been arranged and decorated, (a work of several days,) + the important aera was ushered in by the firing of cannon, ringing of + bells, and an appearance of bustle and hilarity not to be seen on any + other occasion. About ten, the members of the district, the + municipality, and the judges in their habits of ceremony, met at the + great church, and from thence proceeded to the altar of liberty. The + troops of the line, the Garde Nationale of the town, and of all the + surrounding communes, then arrived, with each their respective music and + colours, which (reserving one only of the latter to distinguish them in + the ranks) they planted round the altar. This done, they retired, and + forming a circle round the temple, left a large intermediate space free. + A mass was then celebrated with the most perfect order and decency, and + at the conclusion were read the rights of man and the constitution. The + troops, Garde Nationale, &c. were then addressed by their respective + officers, the oath to be faithful to the nation, the law, and the King, + was administered: every sword was drawn, and every hat waved in the air; + while all the bands of music joined in the favorite strain of ca ira.— + This was followed by crowning, with the civic wreaths hung round the + altar, a number of people, who during the year had been instrumental in + saving the lives of their fellow-citizens that had been endangered by + drowning or other accidents. This honorary reward was accompanied by a + pecuniary one, and a fraternal embrace from all the constituted bodies. + But this was not the gravest part of the ceremony. The magistrates, + however upright, were not all graceful, and the people, though they + understood the value of the money, did not that of the civic wreaths, or + the embraces; they therefore looked vacant enough during this part of the + business, and grinned most facetiously when they began to examine the + appearance of each other in their oaken crowns, and, I dare say, thought + the whole comical enough.—This is one trait of national pedantry. + Because the Romans awarded a civic wreath for an act of humanity, the + French have adopted the custom; and decorate thus a soldier or a sailor, + who never heard of the Romans in his life, except in extracts from the + New Testament at mass. +</p> +<p> + But to return to our fete, of which I have only to add, that the + magistrates departed in the order they observed in coming, and the troops + and Garde Nationale filed off with their hats in the air, and with + universal acclamations, to the sound of ca ira.—Things of this kind are + not susceptible of description. The detail may be uninteresting, while + the general effect may have been impressive. The spirit of the scene I + have been endeavouring to recall seems to have evaporated under my pen; + yet to the spectator it was gay, elegant, and imposing. The day was + fine, a brilliant sun glittered on the banners, and a gentle breeze gave + them motion; while the satisfied countenances of the people added spirit + and animation to the whole. +</p> +<p> + I must remark to you, that devots, and determined aristocrates, ever + attend on these occasions. The piety of the one is shocked at a mass by + a priest who has taken the oaths, and the pride of the other is not yet + reconciled to confusion of ranks and popular festivities. I asked a + woman who brings us fruit every day, why she had not come on the + fourteenth as usual. She told me she did not come to the town, <i>"a cause + de la foederation"—"Vous etes aristocrate donc?"—"Ah, mon Dieu non—ce + n'est pas que je suis aristocrate, ou democrate, mais que je suis + Chretienne.</i>*" +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"On account of the foederation."—"You are an aristocrate then, I + suppose?"—"Lord, no! It is not because I am an aristocrate, or a + democrate, but because I am a Christian." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This is an instance, among many others I could produce, that our + legislators have been wrong, in connecting any change of the national + religion with the revolution. I am every day convinced, that this and + the assignats are the great causes of the alienation visible in many who + were once the warmest patriots.—Adieu: do not envy us our fetes and + ceremonies, while you enjoy a constitution which requires no oath to make + you cherish it: and a national liberty, which is felt and valued without + the aid of extrinsic decoration.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_12"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 15. +</h2> +<p> + The consternation and horror of which I have been partaker, will more + than apologize for my silence. It is impossible for any one, however + unconnected with the country, not to feel an interest in its present + calamities, and to regret them. I have little courage to write even now, + and you must pardon me if my letter should bear marks of the general + depression. All but the faction are grieved and indignant at the King's + deposition; but this grief is without energy, and this indignation + silent. The partizans of the old government, and the friends of the new, + are equally enraged; but they have no union, are suspicious of each + other, and are sinking under the stupor of despair, when they should be + preparing for revenge.—It would not be easy to describe our situation + during the last week. The ineffectual efforts of La Fayette, and the + violences occasioned by them, had prepared us for something still more + serious. On the ninth, we had a letter from one of the representatives + for this department, strongly expressive of his apprehensions for the + morrow, but promising to write if he survived it. The day, on which we + expected news, came, but no post, no papers, no diligence, nor any means + of information. The succeeding night we sat up, expecting letters by the + post: still, however, none arrived; and the courier only passed hastily + through, giving no detail, but that Paris was <i>a feu et a sang</i>.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * All fire and slaughter. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + At length, after passing two days and nights in this dreadful suspence, + we received certain intelligence which even exceeded our fears.—It is + needless to repeat the horrors that have been perpetrated. The accounts + must, ere now, have reached you. Our representative, as he seemed to + expect, was so ill treated as to be unable to write: he was one of those + who had voted the approval of La Fayette's conduct—all of whom were + either massacred, wounded, or intimidated; and, by this means, a majority + was procured to vote the deposition of the King. The party allow, by + their own accounts, eight thousand persons to have perished on this + occasion; but the number is supposed to be much more considerable. No + papers are published at present except those whose editors, being members + of the Assembly, and either agents or instigators of the massacres, are, + of course, interested in concealing or palliating them.—-Mr. De _____ + has just now taken up one of these atrocious journals, and exclaims, with + tears starting from his eyes, <i>"On a abattu la statue d'Henri quatre!*"</i> +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"They have destroyed the statue of Henry the Fourth." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The sacking of Rome by the Goths offers no picture equal to the + licentiousness and barbarity committed in a country which calls itself + the most enlightened in Europe.—But, instead of recording these horrors, + I will fill up my paper with the Choeur Bearnais. +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + + + + + <i>Choeur Bearnais. + + "Un troubadour Bearnais, + "Le yeux inoudes de larmes, + "A ses montagnards + "Chantoit ce refrein source d'alarmes— + "Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris! + "Il a tremble pour les jours + "De sa compagne cherie + "Qui n'a troube de secours + "Que dans sa propre energie; + "Elle suit le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris. + + "Quel crime ont ils donc commis + "Pour etre enchaines de meme? + "Du peuple ils sont les amis, + "Le peuple veut il qu'on l'aime, + "Quand il met le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris? + + "Le Dauphin, ce fils cheri, + "Qui seul fait notre esperance, + "De pleurs sera donc nourri; + "Les Berceaux qu'on donne en France + "Aux enfans de notre Henri + "Sont les prisons de Paris. + + "Il a vu couler le sang + "De ce garde fidele, + "Qui vient d'offrir en mourant + "Aux Francais un beau modele; + Mais Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Il n'est si triste appareil + "Qui du respect nous degage, + "Les feux ardens du Soleil + "Savent percer le nuage: + "Le prisonnier de Paris + "Est toujours le fils d'Henri. + + "Francais, trop ingrats Francais + "Rendez le Roi a sa compagne; + "C'est le bien du Bearnais, + "C'est l'enfant de la Montagne: + "Le bonheur qu' avoit Henri + "Nous l'affarons a Louis. + + "Chez vouz l'homme a de ses droits + "Recouvre le noble usage, + "Et vous opprimez vos rois, + "Ah! quel injuste partage! + "Le peuple est libre, et Louis + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Au pied de ce monument + "Ou le bon Henri respire + "Pourquoi l'airain foudroyant? + "Ah l'on veut qu' Henri conspire + "Lui meme contre son fils + "Dans les prisons de Paris."</i> + + +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + + +<p> + It was published some time ago in a periodical work, (written with great + spirit and talents,) called "The Acts of the Apostles," and, I believe, + has not yet appeared in England. The situation of the King gives a + peculiar interest to these stanzas, which, merely as a poetical + composition, are very beautiful. I have often attempted to translate + them, but have always found it impossible to preserve the effect and + simplicity of the original. They are set to a little plaintive air, very + happily characteristic of the words. +</p> +<p> + Perhaps I shall not write to you again from hence, as we depart for + A_____ on Tuesday next. A change of scene will dissipate a little the + seriousness we have contracted during the late events. If I were + determined to indulge grief or melancholy, I would never remove from the + spot where I had formed the resolution. Man is a proud animal even when + oppressed by misfortune. He seeks for his tranquility in reason and + reflection; whereas, a post-chaise and four, or even a hard-trotting + horse, is worth all the philosophy in the world.—But, if, as I observed + before, a man be determined to resist consolation, he cannot do better + than stay at home, and reason and phosophize. +</p> +<p> + Adieu:—the situation of my friends in this country makes me think of + England with pleasure and respect; and I shall conclude with a very + homely couplet, which, after all the fashionable liberality of modern + travellers, contains a great deal of truth: +</p> + +<center> +<table summary=""> +<tr><td> +<pre> + + "Amongst mankind + "We ne'er shall find + "The worth we left at home." +</pre> +</td></tr> +</table> +</center> + +<p> + Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_13"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + August 22, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The hour is past, in which, if the King's friends had exerted themselves, + they might have procured a movement in his favour. The people were at + first amazed, then grieved; but the national philosophy already begins to + operate, and they will sink into indifference, till again awakened by + some new calamity. The leaders of the faction do not, however, entirely + depend either on the supineness of their adversaries, or the submission + of the people. Money is distributed amongst the idle and indigent, and + agents are nightly employed in the public houses to comment on + newspapers, written for the purpose to blacken the King and exalt the + patriotism of the party who have dethroned him. Much use has likewise + been made of the advances of the Prussians towards Champagne, and the + usual mummery of ceremony has not been wanting. Robespierre, in a burst + of extemporary energy, previously studied, has declared the country in + danger. The declaration has been echoed by all the departments, and + proclaimed to the people with much solemnity. We were not behind hand in + the ceremonial of the business, though, somehow, the effect was not so + serious and imposing as one could have wished on such an occasion. A + smart flag, with the words "Citizens, the country is in danger," was + prepared; the judges and the municipality were in their costume, the + troops and Garde Nationale under arms, and an orator, surrounded by his + cortege, harangued in the principal parts of the town on the text of the + banner which waved before him. +</p> +<p> + All this was very well; but, unfortunately, in order to distinguish the + orator amidst the croud, it was determined he should harangue on + horseback. Now here arose a difficulty which all the ardour of + patriotism was not able to surmount. The French are in general but + indifferent equestrians; and it so happened that, in our municipality, + those who could speak could not ride, and those who could ride could not + speak. At length, however, after much debating, it was determined that + arms should yield to the gown, or rather, the horse to the orator—with + this precaution, that the monture should be properly secured, by an + attendant to hold the bridle. Under this safeguard, the rhetorician + issued forth, and the first part of the speech was performed without + accident; but when, by way of relieving the declaimer, the whole military + band began to flourish ca ira, the horse, even more patriotic than his + rider, curvetted and twisted with so much animation, that however the + spectators might be delighted, the orator was far from participating in + their satisfaction. After all this, the speech was to be finished, and + the silence of the music did not immediately tranquillize the animal. + The orator's eye wandered from the paper that contained his speech, with + wistful glances toward the mane; the fervor of his indignation against + the Austrians was frequently calmed by the involuntary strikings he was + obliged to submit to; and at the very crisis of the emphatic declaration, + he seemed much less occupied by his country's danger than his own. The + people, who were highly amused, I dare say, conceived the whole ceremony + to be a rejoicing, and at every repetition that the country was in + danger, joined with great glee in the chorus of <i>ca ira</i>.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The oration consisted of several parts, each ending with a kind of + burden of <i>"Citoyens, la patri est en danger;"</i> and the arrangers of + the ceremony had not selected appropriate music: so that the band, + who had been accustomed to play nothing else on public occasions, + struck up <i>ca ira</i> at every declaration that the country was in + danger! +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Many of the spectators, I believe, had for some time been convinced of + the danger that threatened the country, and did not suppose it much + increased by the events of the war; others were pleased with a show, + without troubling themselves about the occasion of it; and the mass, + except when rouzed to attention by their favourite air, or the + exhibitions of the equestrian orator, looked on with vacant stupidity. + —This tremendous flag is now suspended from a window of the Hotel de + Ville, where it is to remain until the inscription it wears shall no + longer be true; and I heartily wish, the distresses of the country may + not be more durable than the texture on which they are proclaimed. +</p> +<p> + Our journey is fixed for to-morrow, and all the morning has been passed + in attendance for our passports.—This affair is not so quickly + dispatched as you may imagine. The French are, indeed, said to be a very + lively people, but we mistake their volubility for vivacity; for in their + public offices, their shops, and in any transaction of business, no + people on earth can be more tedious—they are slow, irregular, and + loquacious; and a retail English Quaker, with all his formalities, would + dispose of half his stock in less time than you can purchase a three sols + stamp from a brisk French Commis. You may therefore conceive, that this + official portraiture of so many females was a work of time, and not very + pleasant to the originals. The delicacy of an Englishman may be shocked + at the idea of examining and registering a lady's features one after + another, like the articles of a bill of lading; but the cold and + systematic gallantry of a Frenchman is not so scrupulous.—The officer, + however, who is employed for this purpose here, is civil, and I suspected + the infinity of my nose, and the acuteness of Mad. de ____'s chin, might + have disconcerted him; but he extricated himself very decently. My nose + is enrolled in the order of aquilines, and the old lady's chin pared off + to a <i>"menton un peu pointu."</i>—["A longish chin."] +</p> +<p> + The carriages are ordered for seven to-morrow. Recollect, that seven + females, with all their appointments, are to occupy them, and then + calculate the hour I shall begin increasing my distance from England and + my friends. I shall not do it without regret; yet perhaps you will be + less inclined to pity me than the unfortunate wights who are to escort + us. A journey of an hundred miles, with French horses, French carriages, + French harness, and such an unreasonable female charge, is, I confess, in + great humility, not to be ventured on without a most determined + patience.—I shall write to you on our arrival at Arras; and am, till + then, at all times, and in all places, Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_14"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Hesdin. +</h2> +<p> + We arrived here last night, notwithstanding the difficulties of our first + setting out, in tolerable time; but I have gained so little in point of + repose, that I might as well have continued my journey. We are lodged at + an inn which, though large and the best in the town, is so disgustingly + filthy, that I could not determine to undress myself, and am now up and + scribbling, till my companions shall be ready. Our embarkation will, I + foresee, be a work of time and labour; for my friend, Mad. de ____, + besides the usual attendants on a French woman, a femme de chambre and a + lap-dog, travels with several cages of canary-birds, some pots of curious + exotics, and a favourite cat; all of which must be disposed of so as to + produce no interstine commotions during the journey. Now if you consider + the nature of these fellow-travellers, you will allow it not so easy a + matter as may at first be supposed, especially as their fair mistress + will not allow any of them to be placed in any other carriage than her + own.—A fray happened yesterday between the cat and the dog, during which + the birds were overset, and the plants broken. Poor M. de ____, with a + sort of rueful good nature, separated the combatants, restored order, and + was obliged to purchase peace by charging himself with the care of the + aggressor. +</p> +<p> + I should not have dwelt so long on these trifling occurrences, but that + they are characteristic. In England, this passion for animals is chiefly + confined to old maids, but here it is general. Almost every woman, + however numerous her family, has a nursery of birds, an angola, and two + or three lap-dogs, who share her cares with her husband and children. + The dogs have all romantic names, and are enquired after with so much + solicitude when they do not make one in a visit, that it was some time + before I discovered that Nina and Rosine were not the young ladies of the + family. I do not remember to have seen any husband, however master of + his house in other respects, daring enough to displace a favourite + animal, even though it occupied the only vacant fauteuil. +</p> +<p> + The entrance into Artois from Picardy, though confounded by the new + division, is sufficiently marked by a higher cultivation, and a more + fertile soil. The whole country we have passed is agreeable, but + uniform; the roads are good, and planted on each side with trees, mostly + elms, except here and there some rows of poplar or apple. The land is + all open, and sown in divisions of corn, carrots, potatoes, tobacco, and + poppies of which last they make a coarse kind of oil for the use of + painters. The country is entirely flat, and the view every where bounded + by woods interspersed with villages, whose little spires peeping through + the trees have a very pleasing effect. +</p> +<p> + The people of Artois are said to be highly superstitious, and we have + already passed a number of small chapels and crosses, erected by the road + side, and surrounded by tufts of trees. These are the inventions of a + mistaken piety; yet they are not entirely without their use, and I cannot + help regarding them with more complacence than a rigid Protestant might + think allowable. The weary traveller here finds shelter from a mid-day + sun, and solaces his mind while he reposes his body. The glittering + equipage rolls by—he recalls the painful steps he has past, anticipates + those which yet remain, and perhaps is tempted to repine; but when he + turns his eye on the cross of Him who has promised a recompence to the + sufferers of this world, he checks the sigh of envy, forgets the luxury + which excited it, and pursues his way with resignation. The Protestant + religion proscribes, and the character of the English renders + unnecessary, these sensible objects of devotion; but I have always been + of opinion, that the levity of the French in general would make them + incapable of persevering in a form of worship equally abstracted and + rational. The Spaniards, and even the Italians, might abolish their + crosses and images, and yet preserve their Christianity; but if the + French ceased to be bigots, they would become atheists. +</p> +<p> + This is a small fortified town, though not of strength to offer any + resistance to artillery. Its proximity to the frontier, and the dread of + the Austrians, make the inhabitants very patriotic. We were surrounded + by a great croud of people on our arrival, who had some suspicion that we + were emigrating; however, as soon as our passports were examined and + declared legal, they retired very peaceably. +</p> +<p> + The approach of the enemy keeps up the spirit of the people, and, + notwithstanding their dissatisfaction at the late events, they have not + yet felt the change of their government sufficiently to desire the + invasion of an Austrian army.—Every village, every cottage, hailed us + with the cry of Vive la nation! The cabaret invites you to drink beer a + la nation, and offers you lodging a la nation—the chandler's shop sells + you snuff and hair powder a la nation—and there are even patriotic + barbers whose signs inform you, that you may be shaved and have your + teeth drawn a la nation! These are acts of patriotism one cannot + reasonably object to; but the frequent and tedious examination of one's + passports by people who can't read, is not quite so inoffensive, and I + sometimes lose my patience. A very vigilant <i>Garde Nationale</i> yesterday, + after spelling my passport over for ten minutes, objected that it was not + a good one. I maintained that it was; and feeling a momentary importance + at the recollection of my country, added, in an assuring tone, <i>"Et + d'ailleurs je suis Anglaise et par consequent libre d'aller ou bon me + semble.</i>*" The man stared, but admitted my argument, and we passed on. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"Besides, I am a native of England, and, consequently, have a right + to go where I please." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + My room door is half open, and gives me a prospect into that of Mad. de + L____, which is on the opposite side of the passage. She has not yet put + on her cap, but her grey hair is profusely powdered; and, with no other + garments than a short under petticoat and a corset, she stands for the + edification of all who pass, putting on her rouge with a stick and a + bundle of cotton tied to the end of it.—All travellers agree in + describing great indelicacy to the French women; yet I have seen no + accounts which exaggerate it, and scarce any that have not been more + favourable than a strict adherence to truth might justify. This + inattractive part of the female national character is not confined to the + lower or middling classes of life; and an English woman is as likely to + be put to the blush in the boudoir of a Marquise, as in the shop of the + Grisette, which serves also for her dressing-room. +</p> +<p> + If I am not too idle, or too much amused, you will soon be informed of my + arrival at Arras; but though I should neglect to write, be persuaded I + shall never cease to be, with affection and esteem, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_15"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, August, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The appearance of Arras is not busy in proportion to its population, + because its population is not equal to its extent; and as it is a large, + without being a commercial, town, it rather offers a view of the tranquil + enjoyment of wealth, than of the bustle and activity by which it is + procured. The streets are mostly narrow and ill paved, and the shops + look heavy and mean; but the hotels, which chiefly occupy the low town, + are large and numerous. What is called la Petite Place, is really very + large, and small only in comparison with the great one, which, I believe, + is the largest in France. It is, indeed, an immense quadrangle—the + houses are in the Spanish form, and it has an arcade all round it. The + Spaniards, by whom it was built, forgot, probably, that this kind of + shelter would not be so desirable here as in their own climate. The + manufacture of tapestry, which a single line of Shakespeare has + immortalized, and associated with the mirthful image of his fat Knight, + has fallen into decay. The manufacturers of linen and woollen are but + inconsiderable; and one, which existed till lately, of a very durable + porcelain, is totally neglected. The principal article of commerce is + lace, which is made here in great quantities. The people of all ages, + from five years old to seventy, are employed in this delicate fabrick. + In fine weather you will see whole streets lined with females, each with + her cushion on her lap. The people of Arras are uncommonly dirty, and + the lacemakers do not in this matter differ from their fellow-citizens; + yet at the door of a house, which, but for the surrounding ones, you + would suppose the common receptacle of all the filth in the vicinage, is + often seated a female artizan, whose fingers are forming a point of + unblemished whiteness. It is inconceivable how fast the bobbins move + under their hands; and they seem to bestow so little attention on their + work, that it looks more like the amusement of idleness than an effort of + industry. I am no judge of the arguments of philosophers and politicians + for and against the use of luxury in a state; but if it be allowable at + all, much may be said in favour of this pleasing article of it. Children + may be taught to make it at a very early age, and they can work at home + under the inspection of their parents, which is certainly preferable to + crouding them together in manufactories, where their health is injured, + and their morals are corrupted. +</p> +<p> + By requiring no more implements than about five shillings will purchase, + a lacemaker is not dependent on the shopkeeper, nor the head of a + manufactory. All who choose to work have it in their own power, and can + dispose of the produce of their labour, without being at the mercy of an + avaricious employer; for though a tolerable good workwoman can gain a + decent livelihood by selling to the shops, yet the profit of the retailer + is so great, that if he rejected a piece of lace, or refused to give a + reasonable price for it, a certain sale would be found with the + individual consumer: and it is a proof of the independence of this + employ, that no one will at present dispose of their work for paper, and + it still continues to be paid for in money. Another argument in favour + of encouraging lace-making is, that it cannot be usurped by men: you may + have men-milliners, men-mantuamakers, and even ladies' valets, but you + cannot well fashion the clumsy and inflexible fingers of man to + lace-making. We import great quantities of lace from this country, yet + I imagine we might, by attention, be enabled to supply other countries, + instead of purchasing abroad ourselves. The art of spinning is daily + improving in England; and if thread sufficiently fine can be + manufactured, there is no reason why we should not equal our neighbours + in the beauty of this article. The hands of English women are more + delicate than those of the French; and our climate is much the same as + that of Brussels, Arras, Lisle, &c. where the finest lace is made. +</p> +<p> + The population of Arras is estimated at about twenty-five thousand souls, + though many people tell me it is greater. It has, however, been lately + much thinned by emigration, suppression of convents, and the decline of + trade, occasioned by the absence of so many rich inhabitants.—The + Jacobins are here become very formidable: they have taken possession of a + church for their meetings, and, from being the ridicule, are become the + terror of all moderate people. +</p> +<p> + Yesterday was appointed for taking the new oath of liberty and equality. + I did not see the ceremony, as the town was in much confusion, and it was + deemed unsafe to be from home. I understand it was attended only by the + very refuse of the people, and that, as a gallanterie analogue, the + President of the department gave his arm to Madame Duchene, who sells + apples in a cellar, and is Presidente of the Jacobin club. It is, + however, reported to-day, that she is in disgrace with the society for + her condescension; and her parading the town with a man of forty thousand + livres a year is thought to be too great a compliment to the aristocracy + of riches; so that Mons. Le President's political gallantry has availed + him nothing. He has debased and made himself the ridicule of the + Aristocrates and Constitutionalists, without paying his court, as he + intended, to the popular faction. I would always wish it to happen so to + those who offer up incense to the mob. As human beings, as one's fellow + creatures, the poor and uninformed have a claim to our affection and + benevolence, but when they become legislators, they are absurd and + contemptible tyrants.—<i>A propos</i>—we were obliged to acknowledge this new + sovereignty by illuminating the house on the occasion; and this was not + ordered by nocturnal vociferation as in England, but by a regular command + from an officer deputed for that purpose. +</p> +<p> + I am concerned to see the people accustomed to take a number of + incompatible oaths with indifference: it neither will nor can come to any + good; and I am ready to exclaim with Juliet—"Swear not at all." Or, if + ye must swear, quarrel not with the Pope, that your consciences may at + least be relieved by dispensations and indulgences. +</p> +<p> + To-morrow we go to Lisle, notwithstanding the report that it has already + been summoned to surrender. You will scarcely suppose it possible, yet + we find it difficult to learn the certainty of this, at the distance of + only thirty miles: but communication is much less frequent and easy here + than in England. I am not one of those "unfortunate women who delight in + war;" and, perhaps, the sight of this place, so famous for its + fortifications, will not be very amusing to me, nor furnish much matter + of communication for my friends; but I shall write, if it be only to + assure you that I am not made prize of by the Austrians. Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_16"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle, August, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You restless islanders, who are continually racking imagination to + perfect the art of moving from one place to another, and who can drop + asleep in a carriage and wake at an hundred mile distance, have no notion + of all the difficulties of a day's journey here. In the first place, all + the horses of private persons have been taken for the use of the army, + and those for hire are constantly employed in going to the camp—hence, + there is a difficulty in procuring horses. Then a French carriage is + never in order, and in France a job is not to be done just when you want + it—so that there is often a difficulty in finding vehicles. Then there + is the difficulty of passports, and the difficulty of gates, if you want + to depart early. Then the difficulties of patching harness on the road, + and, above all, the inflexible <i>sang froid</i> of drivers. All these things + considered, you will not wonder that we came here a day after we + intended, and arrived at night, when we ought to have arrived at noon. + —The carriage wanted a trifling repair, and we could get neither + passports nor horses. The horses were gone to the army—the municipality + to the club—and the blacksmith was employed at the barracks in making a + patriotic harangue to the soldiers.—But we at length surmounted all + these obstacles, and reached this place last night. +</p> +<p> + The road between Arras and Lisle is equally rich with that we before + passed, but is much more diversified. The plain of Lens is not such a + scene of fertility, that one forgets it has once been that of war and + carnage. We endeavoured to learn in the town whereabouts the column was + erected that commemmorates that famous battle, [1648.] but no one seemed + to know any thing of the matter. One who, we flattered ourselves, looked + more intelligent than the rest, and whom we supposed might be an + attorney, upon being asked for this spot,—(where, added Mr. de ____, by + way of assisting his memory, <i>"le Prince de Conde s'est battu si bien,"</i>) + —replied, <i>"Pour la bataille je n'en sais rien, mais pour le Prince de + Conde il y a deja quelque tems qu'il est emigre—on le dit a Coblentz."</i>* + After this we thought it in vain to make any farther enquiry, and + continued our walk about the town. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"Where the Prince of Conde fought so gallantly."—"As to the battle + I know nothing about the matter; but for the Prince of Conde he + emigrated some time since—they say he is at Coblentz." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Mr. P____, who, according to French custom, had not breakfasted, took a + fancy to stop at a baker's shop and buy a roll. The man bestowed so much + more civility on us than our two sols were worth, that I observed, on + quitting the shop, I was sure he must be an Aristocrate. Mr. P____, who + is a warm Constitutionalist, disputed the justice of my inference, and we + agreed to return, and learn the baker's political principles. After + asking for more rolls, we accosted him with the usual phrase, "Et vous, + Monsieur, vous etes bon patriote?"—<i>"Ah, mon Dieu, oui,</i> (replied he,) + <i>il faut bien l'etre a present."</i>* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"And you, Sir, are without doubt, a good patriot?"—"Oh Lord, Sir, + yes; one's obliged to be so, now-a-days." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Mr. P____ admitted the man's tone of voice and countenance as good + evidence, and acknowledged I was right.—It is certain that the French + have taken it into their heads, that coarseness of manners is a necessary + consequence of liberty, and that there is a kind of leze nation in being + too civil; so that, in general, I think I can discover the principles of + shopkeepers, even without the indications of a melancholy mien at the + assignats, or lamentations on the times. +</p> +<p> + The new doctrine of primeval equality has already made some progress. At + a small inn at Carvin, where, upon the assurance that they had every + thing in the world, we stopped to dine, on my observing they had laid + more covers than were necessary, the woman answered, "Et les domestiques, + ne dinent ils pas?"—"And, pray, are the servants to have no dinner?" +</p> +<p> + We told her not with us, and the plates were taken away; but we heard her + muttering in the kitchen, that she believed we were aristocrates going to + emigrate. She might imagine also that we were difficult to satisfy, for + we found it impossible to dine, and left the house hungry, + notwithstanding there was "every thing in the world" in it. +</p> +<p> + On the road between Carvin and Lisle we saw Dumouriez, who is going to + take the command of the army, and has now been visiting the camp of + Maulde. He appears to be under the middle size, about fifty years of + age, with a brown complexion, dark eyes, and an animated countenance. He + was not originally distinguished either by birth or fortune, and has + arrived at his present situation by a concurrence of fortuitous + circumstances, by great and various talents, much address, and a spirit + of intrigue. He is now supported by the prevailing party; and, I + confess, I could not regard with much complacence a man, whom the + machinations of the Jacobins had forced into the ministry, and whose + hypocritical and affected resignation has contributed to deceive the + people, and ruin the King. +</p> +<p> + Lisle has all the air of a great town, and the mixture of commercial + industry and military occupation gives it a very gay and populous + appearance. The Lillois are highly patriotic, highly incensed against + the Austrians, and regard the approaching siege with more contempt than + apprehension. I asked the servant who was making my bed this morning, + how far the enemy was off. <i>"Une lieue et demie, ou deux lieues, a moins + qu'ils ne soient plus avances depuis hier,"</i>* repled she, with the utmost + indifference.—I own, I did not much approve of such a vicinage, and a + view of the fortifications (which did not make the less impression, + because I did not understand them,) was absolutely necessary to raise my + drooping courage. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"A league and a half, or two leagues; unless, indeed, they have + advanced since yesterday." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This morning was dedicated to visiting the churches, citadel, and + Collisee (a place of amusement in the manner of our Vauxhall); but all + these things have been so often described by much abler pens, that I + cannot modestly pretend to add any thing on the subject. +</p> +<p> + In the evening we were at the theatre, which is large and handsome; and + the constant residence of a numerous garrison enables it to entertain a + very good set of performers:—their operas in particular are extremely + well got up. I saw Zemire et Azor given better than at Drury Lane.—In + the farce, which was called Le Francois a Londres, was introduced a + character they called that of an Englishman, (Jack Roastbeef,) who pays + his addresses to a nobleman's daughter, in a box coate, a large hat + slouched over his eyes, and an oaken trowel in his hand—in short, the + whole figure exactly resembling that of a watchman. His conversation is + gross and sarcastic, interlarded with oaths, or relieved by fits of + sullen taciturnity—such a lover as one may suppose, though rich, and the + choice of the lady's father, makes no impression; and the author has + flattered the national vanity by making the heroine give the preference + to a French marquis. Now there is no doubt but nine-tenths of the + audience thought this a good portraiture of the English character, and + enjoyed it with all the satisfaction of conscious superiority.—The + ignorance that prevails with regard to our manners and customs, among a + people so near us, is surprizing. It is true, that the noblesse who have + visited England with proper recommendations, and have been introduced to + the best society, do us justice: the men of letters also, who, from party + motives, extol every thing English, have done us perhaps more than + justice. But I speak of the French in general; not the lower classes + only, but the gentry of the provinces, and even those who in other + respects have pretensions to information. The fact is, living in England + is expensive: a Frenchman, whose income here supports him as a gentleman, + goes over and finds all his habits of oeconomy insufficient to keep him + from exceeding the limits he had prescribed to himself. His decent + lodging alone costs him a great part of his revenue, and obliges him to + be strictly parsimonious of the rest. This drives him to associate + chiefly with his own countrymen, to dine at obscure coffee-houses, and + pay his court to opera-dancers. He sees, indeed, our theatres, our + public walks, the outside of our palaces, and the inside of churches: but + this gives him no idea of the manners of the people in superior life, or + even of easy fortune. Thus he goes home, and asserts to his untravelled + countrymen, that our King and nobility are ill lodged, our churches mean, + and that the English are barbarians, who dine without soup, use no + napkin, and eat with their knives.—I have heard a gentleman of some + respectability here observe, that our usual dinner was an immense joint + of meat half drest, and a dish of vegetables scarcely drest at all.—Upon + questioning him, I discovered he had lodged in St. Martin's Lane, had + likewise boarded at a country attorney's of the lowest class, and dined + at an ordinary at Margate. +</p> +<p> + Some few weeks ago the Marquis de P____ set out from Paris in the + diligence, and accompanied by his servant, with a design of emigrating. + Their only fellow-traveller was an Englishman, whom they frequently + addressed, and endeavoured to enter into conversation with; but he either + remained silent, or gave them to understand he was entirely ignorant of + the language. Under this persuasion the Marquis and his valet freely + discussed their affairs, arranged their plan of emigration, and + expressed, with little ceremony, their political opinions.—At the end of + their journey they were denounced by their companion, and conducted to + prison. The magistrate who took the information mentioned the + circumstance when I happened to be present. Indignant at such an act in + an Englishman, I enquired his name. You will judge of my surprize, when + he assured me it was the English Ambassador. I observed to him, that it + was not common for our Ambassadors to travel in stage-coaches: this, he + said, he knew; but that having reason to suspect the Marquis, Monsieur + l'Ambassadeur had had the goodness to have him watched, and had taken + this journey on purpose to detect him. It was not without much + reasoning, and the evidence of a lady who had been in England long enough + to know the impossibility of such a thing, that I would justify Lord + G____ from this piece of complaisance to the Jacobins, and convince the + worthy magistrate he had been imposed upon: yet this man is the Professor + of Eloquence at a college, is the oracle of the Jacobin society; and may + perhaps become a member of the Convention. This seems so almost + incredibly absurd, that I should fear to repeat it, were it not known to + many besides myself; but I think I may venture to pronounce, from my own + observation, and that of others, whose judgement, and occasions of + exercising it, give weight to their opinions, that the generality of the + French who have read a little are mere pedants, nearly unacquainted with + modern nations, their commercial and political relation, their internal + laws, characters, or manners. Their studies are chiefly confined to + Rollin and Plutarch, the deistical works of Voltaire, and the visionary + politics of Jean Jaques. Hence they amuse their hearers with allusions + to Caesar and Lycurgus, the Rubicon, and Thermopylae. Hence they pretend + to be too enlightened for belief, and despise all governments not founded + on the Contrat Social, or the Profession de Foi.—They are an age removed + from the useful literature and general information of the middle classes + in their own country—they talk familiarly of Sparta and Lacedemon, and + have about the same idea of Russia as they have of Caffraria. Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_17"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle. +</h2> +<p> + "Married to another, and that before those shoes were old with which she + followed my poor father to the grave."—There is scarcely any + circumstance, or situation, in which, if one's memory were good, one + should not be mentally quoting Shakespeare. I have just now been + whispering the above, as I passed the altar of liberty, which still + remains on the Grande Place. But "a month, a little month," ago, on this + altar the French swore to maintain the constitution, and to be faithful + to the law and the King; yet this constitution is no more, the laws are + violated, the King is dethroned, and the altar is now only a monument of + levity and perjury, which they have not feeling enough to remove. +</p> +<p> + The Austrians are daily expected to besiege this place, and they may + destroy, but they will not take it. I do not, as you may suppose, + venture to speak so decisively in a military point of view—I know as + little as possible of the excellencies of Vauban, or the adequacy of the + garrison; but I draw my inference from the spirit of enthusiasm which + prevails among the inhabitants of every class—every individual seems to + partake of it: the streets resound with patriotic acclamations, patriotic + songs, war, and defiance.—Nothing can be more animating than the + theatre. Every allusion to the Austrians, every song or sentence, + expressive of determined resistance, is followed by bursts of assent, + easily distinguishable not to be the effort of party, but the sentiment + of the people in general. There are, doubtless, here, as in all other + places, party dissensions; but the threatened siege seems at least to + have united all for their common defence: they know that a bomb makes no + distinction between Feuillans, Jacobins, or Aristocrates, and neither are + so anxious to destroy the other, when it is only to be done at such a + risk to themselves. I am even willing to hope that something better than + mere selfishness has a share in their uniting to preserve one of the + finest, and, in every sense, one of the most interesting, towns in + France. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_18"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Lisle, Saturday. +</h2> +<p> + We are just on our departure for Arras, where, I fear, we shall scarcely + arrive before the gates are shut. We have been detained here much beyond + our time, by a circumstance infinitely shocking, though, in fact, not + properly a subject of regret. One of the assassins of General Dillon was + this morning guillotined before the hotel where we are lodged.—I did + not, as you will conclude, see the operation; but the mere circumstance + of knowing the moment it was performed, and being so near it, has much + unhinged me. The man, however, deserved his fate, and such an example + was particularly necessary at this time, when we are without a + government, and the laws are relaxed. The mere privation of life is, + perhaps, more quickly effected by this instrument than by any other + means; but when we recollect that the preparation for, and apprehension + of, death, constitute its greatest terrors; that a human hand must give + motion to the Guillotine as well as to the axe; and that either accustoms + a people, already sanguinary, to the sight of blood, I think little is + gained by the invention. It was imagined by a Mons. Guillotin, a + physician of Paris, and member of the Constituent Assembly. The original + design seems not so much to spare pain to the criminal, as obloquy to the + executioner. I, however, perceive little difference between a man's + directing a Guillotine, or tying a rope; and I believe the people are of + the same opinion. They will never see any thing but a <i>bourreau</i> + [executioner] in the man whose province it is to execute the sentence of + the laws, whatever name he may be called by, or whatever instrument he + may make use of.—I have concluded this letter with a very unpleasant + subject, but my pen is guided by circumstances, and I do not invent, but + communicate.—Adieu. Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_19"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September 1, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Had I been accompanied by an antiquary this morning, his sensibility + would have been severely exercised; for even I, whose respect for + antiquity is not scientific, could not help lamenting the modern rage for + devastation which has seized the French. They are removing all "the + time-honoured figures" of the cathedral, and painting its massive + supporters in the style of a ball-room. The elaborate uncouthness of + ancient sculpture is not, indeed, very beautiful; yet I have often + fancied there was something more simply pathetic in the aukward effigy of + an hero kneeling amidst his trophies, or a regal pair with their + supplicating hands and surrounding offspring, than in the graceful + figures and poetic allegories of the modern artist. The humble intreaty + to the reader to "praye for the soule of the departed," is not very + elegant—yet it is better calculated to recall the wanderings of + morality, than the flattering epitaph, a Fame hovering in the air, or the + suspended wreath of the remunerating angel.—But I moralize in vain—the + rage of these new Goths is inexorable: they seem solicitous to destroy + every vestige of civilization, lest the people should remember they have + not always been barbarians. +</p> +<p> + After obtaining an order from the municipality, we went to see the + gardens and palace of the Bishop, who has emigrated. The garden has + nothing very remarkable, but is large and well laid out, according to the + old style. It forms a very agreeable walk, and, when the Bishop possest + it, was open for the enjoyment of the inhabitants, but it is now shut up + and in disorder. The house is plain, and substantially furnished, and + exhibits no appearance of unbecoming luxury. The whole is now the + property of the nation, and will soon be disposed of.—I could not help + feeling a sensation of melancholy as we walked over the apartments. + Every thing is marked in an inventory, just as left; and an air of + arrangement and residence leads one to reflect, that the owner did not + imagine at his departure he was quitting it perhaps for ever. I am not + partial to the original emigrants, yet much may be said for the Bishop of + Arras. He was pursued by ingratitude, and marked for persecution. The + Robespierres were young men whom he had taken from a mean state, had + educated, and patronized. The revolution gave them an opportunity of + displaying their talents, and their talents procured them popularity. + They became enemies to the clergy, because their patron was a Bishop; and + endeavoured to render their benefactor odious, because the world could + not forget, nor they forgive, how much they were indebted to him.—Vice + is not often passive; nor is there often a medium between gratitude for + benefits, and hatred to the author of them. A little mind is hurt by the + remembrance of obligation—begins by forgetting, and, not uncommonly, + ends by persecuting. +</p> +<p> + We dined and passed the afternoon from home to-day. After dinner our + hostess, as usual, proposed cards; and, as usual in French societies, + every one assented: we waited, however, some time, and no cards came— + till, at length, conversation-parties were formed, and they were no + longer thought of. I have since learned, from one of the young women of + the house, that the butler and two footmen had all betaken themselves to + clubs and Guinguettes,* and the cards, counters, &c. could not be + obtained. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Small public houses in the vicinity of large towns, where the + common people go on Sundays and festivals to dance and make merry. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + This is another evil arising from the circumstances of the times. All + people of property have begun to bury their money and plate, and as the + servants are often unavoidably privy to it, they are become idle and + impertinent—they make a kind of commutation of diligence for fidelity, + and imagine that the observance of the one exempts them from the + necessity of the other. The clubs are a constant receptacle for + idleness; and servants who think proper to frequent them do it with very + little ceremony, knowing that few whom they serve would be imprudent + enough to discharge them for their patriotism in attending a Jacobin + society. Even servants who are not converts to the new principle cannot + resist the temptation of abusing a little the power which they acquire + from a knowledge of family affairs. Perhaps the effect of the revolution + has not, on the whole, been favourable to the morals of the lower class + of people; but this shall be the subject of discussion at some future + period, when I shall have had farther opportunities of judging. +</p> +<p> + We yesterday visited the Oratoire, a seminary for education, which is now + suppressed. The building is immense, and admirably calculated for the + purpose, but is already in a state of dilapidation; so that, I fear, by + the time the legislature has determined what system of instruction shall + be substituted for that which has been abolished, the children (as the + French are fond of examples from the ancients) will take their lessons, + like the Greeks, in the open air; and, in the mean while, become expert + in lying and thieving, like the Spartans. +</p> +<p> + The Superior of the house is an immoderate revolutionist, speaks English + very well, and is a great admirer of our party writers. In his room I + observed a vast quantity of English books, and on his chimney stood what + he called a patriotic clock, the dial of which was placed between two + pyramids, on which were inscribed the names of republican authors, and on + the top of one was that of our countryman, Mr. Thomas Paine—whom, by the + way, I understand you intended to exhibit in a much more conspicuous and + less tranquil situation. I assure you, though you are ungrateful on your + side of the water, he is in high repute here—his works are translated— + all the Jacobins who can read quote, and all who can't, admire him; and + possibly, at the very moment you are sentencing him to an installment in + the pillory, we may be awarding him a triumph.—Perhaps we are both + right. He deserves the pillory, from you for having endeavoured to + destroy a good constitution—and the French may with equal reason grant + him a triumph, as their constitution is likely to be so bad, that even + Mr. Thomas Paine's writings may make it better! +</p> +<p> + Our house is situated within view of a very pleasant public walk, where I + am daily amused with a sight of the recruits at their exercise. This is + not quite so regular a business as the drill in the Park. The exercise + is often interrupted by disputes between the officer and his eleves—some + are for turning to the right, others to the left, and the matter is not + unfrequently adjusted by each going the way that seemeth best unto + himself. The author of the <i>"Actes des Apotres"</i> [The Acts of the + Apostles] cites a Colonel who reprimanded one of his corps for walking + ill—<i>"Eh Dicentre,</i> (replied the man,) <i>comment veux tu que je marche + bien quand tu as fait mes souliers trop etroits."</i>* but this is no longer + a pleasantry—such circumstances are very common. A Colonel may often be + tailor to his own regiment, and a Captain operated on the heads of his + whole company, in his civil capacity, before he commands them in his + military one. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *"And how the deuce can you expect me to march well, when you have + made my shoes too tight?" +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The walks I have just mentioned have been extremely beautiful, but a + great part of the trees have been cut down, and the ornamental parts + destroyed, since the revolution—I know not why, as they were open to the + poor as well as the rich, and were a great embellishment to the low town. + You may think it strange that I should be continually dating some + destruction from the aera of the revolution—that I speak of every thing + demolished, and of nothing replaced. But it is not my fault—"If freedom + grows destructive, I must paint it:" though I should tell you, that in + many streets where convents have been sold, houses are building with the + materials on the same site.—This is, however, not a work of the nation, + but of individuals, who have made their purchases cheap, and are + hastening to change the form of their property, lest some new revolution + should deprive them of it.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_20"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September. +</h2> +<p> + Nothing more powerfully excites the attention of a stranger on his first + arrival, than the number and wretchedness of the poor at Arras. In all + places poverty claims compulsion, but here compassion is accompanied by + horror—one dares not contemplate the object one commiserates, and + charity relieves with an averted eye. Perhaps with Him, who regards + equally the forlorn beggar stretched on the threshold, consumed by filth + and disease, and the blooming beauty who avoids while she succours him, + the offering of humanity scarcely expiates the involuntary disgust; yet + such is the weakness of our nature, that there exists a degree of misery + against which one's senses are not proof, and benevolence itself revolts + at the appearance of the poor of Arras.—These are not the cold and + fastidious reflections of an unfeeling mind—they are not made without + pain: nor have I often felt the want of riches and consequence so much as + in my incapacity to promote some means of permanent and substantial + remedy for the evils I have been describing. I have frequently enquired + the cause of this singular misery, but can only learn that it always has + been so. I fear it is, that the poor are without energy, and the rich + without generosity. The decay of manufactures since the last century + must have reduced many families to indigence. These have been able to + subsist on the refuse of luxury, but, too supine for exertion, they have + sought for nothing more; while the great, discharging their consciences + with the superfluity of what administered to their pride, fostered the + evil, instead of endeavouring to remedy it. But the benevolence of the + French is not often active, nor extensive; it is more frequently a + religious duty than a sentiment. They content themselves with affording + a mere existence to wretchedness; and are almost strangers to those + enlightened and generous efforts which act beyond the moment, and seek + not only to relieve poverty, but to banish it. Thus, through the frigid + and indolent charity of the rich, the misery which was at first + accidental is perpetuated, beggary and idleness become habitual, and are + transmitted, like more fortunate inheritances, from one generation to + another.—This is not a mere conjecture—I have listened to the histories + of many of these unhappy outcasts, who were more than thirty years old, + and they have all told me, they were born in the state in which I beheld + them, and that they did not remember to have heard that their parents + were in any other. The National Assembly profess to effectuate an entire + regeneration of the country, and to eradicate all evils, moral, physical, + and political. I heartily wish the numerous and miserable poor, with + which Arras abounds, may become one of the first objects of reform; and + that a nation which boasts itself the most polished, the most powerful, + and the most philosophic in the world, may not offer to the view so many + objects shocking to humanity. +</p> +<p> + The citadel of Arras is very strong, and, as I am told, the chef d'oeuvre + of Vauban; but placed with so little judgement, that the military call it + <i>la belle inutile</i> [the useless beauty]. It is now uninhabited, and + wears an appearance of desolation—the commandant and all the officers of + the ancient government having been forced to abandon it; their houses + also are much damaged, and the gardens entirely destroyed.—I never heard + that this popular commotion had any other motive than the general war of + the new doctrines on the old. +</p> +<p> + I am sorry to see that most of the volunteers who go to join the army are + either old men or boys, tempted by extraordinary pay and scarcity of + employ. A cobler who has been used to rear canary-birds for Mad. de + ____, brought us this morning all the birds he was possessed of, and told + us he was going to-morrow to the frontiers. We asked him why, at his + age, he should think of joining the army. He said, he had already + served, and that there were a few months unexpired of the time that would + entitle him to his pension.—"Yes; but in the mean while you may get + killed; and then of what service will your claim to a pension be?"— + <i>"N'ayez pas peur, Madame—Je me menagerai bien—on ne se bat pas pour ces + gueux la comme pour son Roi."</i>* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * "No fear of that, Madam—I'll take good care of myself: a man does + not fight for such beggarly rascals as these as he would for his + King." +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + M. de ____ is just returned from the camp of Maulde, where he has been to + see his son. He says, there is great disorder and want of discipline, + and that by some means or other the common soldiers abound more in money, + and game higher, than their officers. There are two young women, + inhabitants of the town of St. Amand, who go constantly out on all + skirmishing parties, exercise daily with the men, and have killed several + of the enemy. They are both pretty—one only sixteen, the other a year + or two older. Mr. de ____ saw them as they were just returning from a + reconnoitring party. Perhaps I ought to have been ashamed after this + recital to decline an invitation from Mr. de R___'s son to dine with him + at the camp; but I cannot but feel that I am an extreme coward, and that + I should eat with no appetite in sight of an Austrian army. The very + idea of these modern Camillas terrifies me—their creation seems an error + of nature.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Their name was Fernig; they were natives of St. Amand, and of no + remarkable origin. They followed Dumouriez into Flanders, where + they signalized themselves greatly, and became Aides-de-Camp to that + General. At the time of his defection, one of them was shot by a + soldier, whose regiment she was endeavouring to gain over. Their + house having been razed by the Austrians at the beginning of the + war, was rebuilt at the expence of the nation; but, upon their + participation in Dumouriez' treachery, a second decree of the + Assembly again levelled it with the ground. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Our host, whose politeness is indefatigable, accompanied us a few days + ago to St. Eloy, a large and magnificent abbey, about six miles from + Arras. It is built on a terrace, which commands the surrounding country + as far as Douay; and I think I counted an hundred and fifty steps from + the house to the bottom of the garden, which is on a level with the road. + The cloisters are paved with marble, and the church neat and beautiful + beyond description. The iron work of the choir imitates flowers and + foliage with so much taste and delicacy, that (but for the colour) one + would rather suppose it to be soil, than any durable material.—The monks + still remain, and although the decree has passed for their suppression, + they cannot suppose it will take place. They are mostly old men, and, + though I am no friend to these institutions, they were so polite and + hospitable that I could not help wishing they were permitted, according + to the design of the first Assembly, to die in their habitations— + especially as the situation of St. Eloy renders the building useless for + any other purpose.—A friend of Mr. de ____ has a charming country-house + near the abbey, which he has been obliged to deny himself the enjoyment + of, during the greatest part of the summer; for whenever the family + return to Arras, their persons and their carriage are searched at the + gate, as strictly as though they were smugglers just arrived from the + coast, under the pretence that they may assist the religious of St. Eloy + in securing some of their property, previous to the final seizure. +</p> +<p> + I observe, in walking the streets here, that the common people still + retain much of the Spanish cast of features: the women are remarkably + plain, and appear still more so by wearing faals. The faal is about two + ells of black silk or stuff, which is hung, without taste or form, on the + head, and is extremely unbecoming: but it is worn only by the lower + class, or by the aged and devotees. +</p> +<p> + I am a very voluminous correspondent, but if I tire you, it is a proper + punishment for your insincerity in desiring me to continue so. I have + heard of a governor of one of our West India islands who was universally + detested by its inhabitants, but who, on going to England, found no + difficulty in procuring addresses expressive of approbation and esteem. + The consequence was, he came back and continued governor for life.—Do + you make the application of my anecdote, and I shall persevere in + scribbling.—Every Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_21"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras. +</h2> +<p> + It is not fashionable at present to frequent any public place; but as we + are strangers, and of no party, we often pass our evenings at the + theatre. I am fond of it—not so much on account of the representation, + as of the opportunity which it affords for observing the dispositions of + the people, and the bias intended to be given them. The stage is now + become a kind of political school, where the people are taught hatred to + Kings, Nobility, and Clergy, according as the persecution of the moment + requires; and, I think, one may often judge from new pieces the meditated + sacrifice. A year ago, all the sad catalogue of human errors were + personified in Counts and Marquisses; they were not represented as + individuals whom wealth and power had made something too proud, and much + too luxurious, but as an order of monsters, whose existence, + independently of their characters, was a crime, and whose hereditary + possessions alone implied a guilt, not to be expiated but by the + forfeiture of them. This, you will say, was not very judicious; and that + by establishing a sort of incompatibility of virtue with titular + distinctions, the odium was transferred from the living to the dead—from + those who possessed these distinctions to those who instituted them. + But, unfortunately, the French were disposed to find their noblesse + culpable, and to reject every thing which tended to excuse or favour + them. The hauteur of the noblesse acted as a fatal equivalent to every + other crime; and many, who did not credit other imputations, rejoiced in + the humiliation of their pride. The people, the rich merchants, and even + the lesser gentry, all eagerly concurred in the destruction of an order + that had disdained or excluded them; and, perhaps, of all the innovations + which have taken place, the abolition of rank has excited the least + interest. +</p> +<p> + It is now less necessary to blacken the noblesse, and the compositions of + the day are directed against the Throne, the Clergy, and Monastic Orders. + All the tyrants of past ages are brought from the shelves of faction and + pedantry, and assimilated to the mild and circumscribed monarchs of + modern Europe. The doctrine of popular sovereignty is artfully + instilled, and the people are stimulated to exert a power which they must + implicitly delegate to those who have duped and misled them. The frenzy + of a mob is represented as the sublimest effort of patriotism; and + ambition and revenge, usurping the title of national justice, immolate + their victims with applause. The tendency of such pieces is too obvious; + and they may, perhaps, succeed in familiarizing the minds of the people + to events which, a few months ago, would have filled them with horror. + There are also numerous theatrical exhibitions, preparatory to the + removal of the nuns from their convents, and to the banishment of the + priests. Ancient prejudices are not yet obliterated, and I believe some + pains have been taken to justify these persecutions by calumny. The + history of our dissolution of the monasteries has been ransacked for + scandal, and the bigotry and biases of all countries are reduced into + abstracts, and exposed on the stage. The most implacable revenge, the + most refined malice, the extremes of avarice and cruelty, are wrought + into tragedies, and displayed as acting under the mask of religion and + the impunity of a cloister; while operas and farces, with ridicule still + more successful, exhibit convents as the abode of licentiousness, + intrigue, and superstition. +</p> +<p> + These efforts have been sufficiently successful—not from the merit of + the pieces, but from the novelty of the subject. The people in general + were strangers to the interior of convents: they beheld them with that + kind of respect which is usually produced in uninformed minds by mystery + and prohibition. Even the monastic habit was sacred from dramatic uses; + so that a representation of cloisters, monks, and nuns, their costumes + and manners, never fails to attract the multitude.—But the same cause + which renders them curious, makes them credulous. Those who have seen no + farther than the Grille, and those who have been educated in convents, + are equally unqualified to judge of the lives of the religious; and their + minds, having no internal conviction or knowledge of the truth, easily + become the converts of slander and falsehood. +</p> +<p> + I cannot help thinking, that there is something mean and cruel in this + procedure. If policy demand the sacrifice, it does not require that the + victims should be rendered odious; and if it be necessary to dispossess + them of their habitations, they ought not, at the moment they are thrown + upon the world, to be painted as monsters unworthy of its pity or + protection. It is the cowardice of the assassin, who murders before he + dares to rob. +</p> +<p> + This custom of making public amusements subservient to party, has, I + doubt not, much contributed to the destruction of all against whom it has + been employed; and theatrical calumny seems to be always the harbinger of + approaching ruin to its object; yet this is not the greatest evil which + may arise from these insidious politics—they are equally unfavourable + both to the morals and taste of the people; the first are injured beyond + calculation, and the latter corrupted beyond amendment. The orders of + society, which formerly inspired respect or veneration, are now debased + and exploded; and mankind, once taught to see nothing but vice and + hypocrisy in those whom they had been accustomed to regard as models of + virtue, are easily led to doubt the very existence of virtue itself: they + know not where to turn for either instruction or example; no prospect is + offered to them but the dreary and uncomfortable view of general + depravity; and the individual is no longer encouraged to struggle with + vicious propensities, when he concludes them irresistibly inherent in his + nature. Perhaps it was not possible to imagine principles at once so + seductive and ruinous as those now disseminated. How are the morals of + the people to resist a doctrine which teaches them that the rich only can + be criminal, and that poverty is a substitute for virtue—that wealth is + holden by the sufferance of those who do not possess it—and that he who + is the frequenter of a club, or the applauder of a party, is exempt from + the duties of his station, and has a right to insult and oppress his + fellow citizens? All the weaknesses of humanity are flattered and called + to the aid of this pernicious system of revolutionary ethics; and if + France yet continue in a state of civilization, it is because Providence + has not yet abandoned her to the influence of such a system. +</p> +<p> + Taste is, I repeat it, as little a gainer by the revolution as morals. + The pieces which were best calculated to form and refine the minds of the + people, all abound with maxims of loyalty, with respect for religion, and + the subordinations of civil society. These are all prohibited; and are + replaced by fustian declamations, tending to promote anarchy and discord + —by vulgar and immoral farces, and insidious and flattering panegyrics + on the vices of low life. No drama can succeed that is not supported by + the faction; and this support is to be procured only by vilifying the + Throne, the Clergy, and Noblesse. This is a succedaneum for literary + merit, and those who disapprove are menaced into silence; while the + multitude, who do not judge but imitate, applaud with their leaders—and + thus all their ideas become vitiated, and imbibe the corruption of their + favourite amusement. +</p> +<p> + I have dwelt on this subject longer than I intended; but as I would not + be supposed prejudiced nor precipitate in my assertions, I will, by the + first occasion, send you some of the most popular farces and tragedies: + you may then decide yourself upon the tendency; and, by comparing the + dispositions of the French before, and within, the last two years, you + may also determine whether or not my conclusions are warranted by fact. + Adieu.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_22"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras. +</h2> +<p> + Our countrymen who visit France for the first time—their imaginations + filled with the epithets which the vanity of one nation has appropriated, + and the indulgence of the other sanctioned—are astonished to find this + "land of elegance," this refined people, extremely inferior to the + English in all the arts that minister to the comfort and accommodation of + life. They are surprized to feel themselves starved by the intrusion of + all the winds of heaven, or smothered by volumes of smoke—that no lock + will either open or shut—that the drawers are all immoveable—and that + neither chairs nor tables can be preserved in equilibrium. In vain do + they inquire for a thousand conveniences which to them seem + indispensible; they are not to be procured, or even their use is unknown: + till at length, after a residence in a score of houses, in all of which + they observe the same deficiencies, they begin to grow sceptical, to + doubt the pretended superiority of France, and, perhaps for the first + time, do justice to their own unassuming country. It must however, be + confessed, that if the chimnies smoke, they are usually surrounded by + marble—that the unstable chair is often covered with silk—and that if a + room be cold, it is plentifully decked with gilding, pictures, and + glasses.—In short, a French house is generally more showy than + convenient, and seldom conveys that idea of domestic comfort which + constitutes the luxury of an Englishman. +</p> +<p> + I observe, that the most prevailing ornaments here are family portraits: + almost every dwelling, even among the lower kind of tradesmen, is peopled + with these ensigns of vanity; and the painters employed on these + occasions, however deficient in other requisites of their art, seem to + have an unfortunate knack at preserving likenesses. Heads powdered even + whiter than the originals, laced waistcoats, enormous lappets, and + countenances all ingeniously disposed so as to smile at each other, + encumber the wainscot, and distress the unlucky visitor, who is obliged + to bear testimony to the resemblance. When one sees whole rooms filled + with these figures, one cannot help reflecting on the goodness of + Providence, which thus distributes self-love, in proportion as it denies + those gifts that excite the admiration of others. +</p> +<p> + You must not understand what I have said on the furniture of French + houses as applying to those of the nobility or people of extraordinary + fortunes, because they are enabled to add the conveniences of other + countries to the luxuries of their own. Yet even these, in my opinion, + have not the uniform elegance of an English habitation: there is always + some disparity between the workmanship and the materials—some mixture of + splendour and clumsiness, and a want of what the painters call keeping; + but the houses of the gentry, the lesser noblesse, and merchants, are, + for the most part, as I have described—-abounding in silk, marble, + glasses, and pictures; but ill finished, dirty, and deficient in articles + of real use.—I should, however, notice, that genteel people are cleaner + here than in the interior parts of the kingdom. The floors are in + general of oak, or sometimes of brick; but they are always rubbed bright, + and have not that filthy appearance which so often disgusts one in French + houses. +</p> +<p> + The heads of the lower classes of people are much disturbed by these new + principles of universal equality. We enquired of a man we saw near a + coach this morning if it was hired. "Monsieur—(quoth he—then checking + himself suddenly,)—no, I forgot, I ought not to say Monsieur, for they + tell me I am equal to any body in the world: yet, after all, I know not + well if this may be true; and as I have drunk out all I am worth, I + believe I had better go home and begin work again to-morrow." This new + disciple of equality had, indeed, all the appearance of having sacrificed + to the success of the cause, and was then recovering from a dream of + greatness which he told us had lasted two days. +</p> +<p> + Since the day of taking the new oath we have met many equally elevated, + though less civil. Some are undoubtedly paid, but others will distress + their families for weeks by this celebration of their new discoveries, + and must, after all, like our intoxicated philosopher, be obliged to + return "to work again to-morrow." +</p> +<p> + I must now bid you adieu—and, in doing so, naturally turn my thoughts to + that country where the rights of the people consist not of sterile and + metaphysic declarations, but of real defence and protection. May they + for ever remain uninterrupted by the devastating chimeras of their + neighbours; and if they seek reform, may it be moderate and permanent, + acceded to reason, and not extorted by violence!—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_23"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September 2, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We were so much alarmed at the theatre on Thursday, that I believe we + shall not venture again to amuse ourselves at the risk of a similar + occurrence. About the middle of the piece, a violent outcry began from + all parts of the house, and seemed to be directed against our box; and I + perceived Madame Duchene, the Presidente of the Jacobins, heading the + legions of Paradise with peculiar animation. You may imagine we were not + a little terrified. I anxiously examined the dress of myself and my + companions, and observing nothing that could offend the affected + simplicity of the times, prepared to quit the house. A friendly voice, + however, exerting itself above the clamour, informed us that the + offensive objects were a cloak and a shawl which hung over the front of + the box.—You will scarcely suppose such grossness possible among a + civilized people; but the fact is, our friends are of the proscribed + class, and we were insulted because in their society.—I have before + noticed, that the guards which were stationed in the theatre before the + revolution are now removed, and a municipal officer, made conspicuous by + his scarf, is placed in the middle front box, and, in case of any tumult, + is empowered to call in the military to his assistance. +</p> +<p> + We have this morning been visiting two objects, which exhibit this + country in very different points of view—as the seat of wealth, and the + abode of poverty. The first is the abbey of St. Vaast, a most superb + pile, now inhabited by monks of various orders, but who are preparing to + quit it, in obedience to the late decrees. Nothing impresses one with a + stronger idea of the influence of the Clergy, than these splendid + edifices. We see them reared amidst the solitude of deserts, and in the + gaiety and misery of cities; and while they cheer the one and embellish + the other, they exhibit, in both, monuments of indefatigable labour and + immense wealth.—The facade of St. Vaast is simple and striking, and the + cloisters and every other part of the building are extremely handsome. + The library is supposed to be the finest in France, except the King's, + but is now under the seal of the nation. A young monk, who was our + Cicerone, told us he was sorry it was not in his power to show it. <i>"Et + nous, Monsieur, nous sommes faches aussi."</i>—["And we are not less sorry + than yourself, Sir."] +</p> +<p> + Thus, with the aid of significant looks, and gestures of disapprobation, + an exchange of sentiments took place, without a single expression of + treasonable import: both parties understood perfectly well, that in + regretting that the library was inaccessible, each included all the + circumstances which attended it.—A new church was building in a style + worthy of the convent—I think, near four hundred feet long; but it was + discontinued at the suppression of the religious orders, and will now, of + course, never be finished. +</p> +<p> + From this abode of learned case and pious indolence Mr. de ____ conducted + us to the Mont de Piete, a national institution for lending money to the + poor on pledges, (at a moderate interest,) which, if not redeemed within + a year, are sold by auction, and the overplus, if there remain any, after + deducting the interest, is given to the owner of the pledge. Thousands + of small packets are deposited here, which, to the eye of affluence, + might seem the very refuse of beggary itself.—I could not reflect + without an heart-ache, on the distress of the individual, thus driven to + relinquish his last covering, braving cold to satisfy hunger, and + accumulating wretchedness by momentary relief. I saw, in a lower room, + groupes of unfortunate beings, depriving themselves of different parts of + their apparel, and watching with solicitude the arbitrary valuations; + others exchanging some article of necessity for one of a still greater— + some in a state of intoxication, uttering execrations of despair; and all + exhibiting a picture of human nature depraved and miserable.—While I was + viewing this scene, I recalled the magnificent building we had just left, + and my first emotions were those of regret and censure. When we only + feel, and have not leisure to reflect, we are indignant that vast sums + should be expended on sumptuous edifices, and that the poor should live + in vice and want; yet the erection of St. Vaast must have maintained + great numbers of industrious hands; and perhaps the revenues of the abbey + may not, under its new possessors, be so well employed. When the + offerings and the tributes to religion are the support of the industrious + poor, it is their best appropriation; and he who gives labour for a day, + is a more useful benefactor than he who maintains in idleness for two. + —I could not help wishing that the poor might no longer be tempted by + the facility of a resource, which perhaps, in most instances, only + increases their distress.—It is an injudicious expedient to palliate an + evil, which great national works, and the encouragement of industry and + manufactures, might eradicate.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * In times of public commotion people frequently send their valuable + effects to the Mont de Piete, not only as being secure by its + strength, but as it is respected by the people, who are interested + in its preservation. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —With these reflections I concluded mental peace with the monks of St. + Vaast, and would, had it depended upon me, have readily comprized the + finishing their great church in the treaty. +</p> +<p> + The Primary Assemblies have already taken place in this department. We + happened to enter a church while the young Robespierre was haranguing to + an audience, very little respectable either in numbers or appearance. + They were, however, sufficiently unanimous, and made up in noisy applause + what they wanted in other respects. If the electors and elected of other + departments be of the same complexion with those of Arras, the new + Assembly will not, in any respect, be preferable to the old one. I have + reproached many of the people of this place, who, from their education + and property, have a right to take an interest in the public affairs, + with thus suffering themselves to be represented by the most desperate + and worthless individuals of the town. Their defence is, that they are + insulted and overpowered if they attend the popular meetings, and by + electing <i>"les gueux et les scelerats pour deputes,"</i>* they send them to + Paris, and secure their own local tranquillity. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * The scrubs and scoundrels for deputies. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + —The first of these assertions is but too true, yet I cannot but think + the second a very dangerous experiment. They remove these turbulent and + needy adventurers from the direction of a club to that of government, and + procure a partial relief by contributing to the general ruin. +</p> +<p> + Paris is said to be in extreme fermentation, and we are in some anxiety + for our friend M. P____, who was to go there from Montmorency last week. + I shall not close my letter till I have heard from him. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_24"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September 4. +</h2> +<p> + I resume my pen after a sleepless night, and with an oppression of mind + not to be described. Paris is the scene of proscription and massacres. + The prisoners, the clergy, the noblesse, all that are supposed inimical + to public faction, or the objects of private revenge, are sacrificed + without mercy. We are here in the utmost terror and consternation—we + know not the end nor the extent of these horrors, and every one is + anxious for himself or his friends. Our society consists mostly of + females, and we do not venture out, but hover together like the fowls of + heaven, when warned by a vague yet instinctive dread of the approaching + storm. We tremble at the sound of voices in the street, and cry, with + the agitation of Macbeth, "there's knocking at the gate." I do not + indeed envy, but I most sincerely regret, the peace and safety of + England.—I have no courage to add more, but will enclose a hasty + translation of the letter we received from M. P____, by last night's + post. Humanity cannot comment upon it without shuddering.—Ever Yours, + &c. +</p> +<p> + "Rue St. Honore, Sept. 2, 1792. +</p> +<p> + "In a moment like this, I should be easily excused a breach of promise in + not writing; yet when I recollect the apprehension which the kindness of + my amiable friends will feel on my account, I determine, even amidst the + danger and desolation that surround me, to relieve them.—Would to Heaven + I had nothing more alarming to communicate than my own situation! I may + indeed suffer by accident; but thousands of wretched victims are at this + moment marked for sacrifice, and are massacred with an execrable + imitation of rule and order: a ferocious and cruel multitude, headed by + chosen assassins, are attacking the prisons, forcing the houses of the + noblesse and priests, and, after a horrid mockery of judicial + condemnation, execute them on the spot. The tocsin is rung, alarm guns + are fired, the streets resound with fearful shrieks, and an undefinable + sensation of terror seizes on one's heart. I feel that I have committed + an imprudence in venturing to Paris; but the barriers are now shut, and I + must abide the event. I know not to what these proscriptions tend, or if + all who are not their advocates are to be their victims; but an + ungovernable rage animates the people: many of them have papers in their + hands that seem to direct them to their objects, to whom they hurry in + crouds with an eager and savage fury.—I have just been obliged to quit + my pen. A cart had stopped near my lodgings, and my ears were assailed + by the groans of anguish, and the shouts of frantic exultation. + Uncertain whether to descend or remain, I, after a moment's deliberation, + concluded it would be better to have shown myself than to have appeared + to avoid it, in case the people should enter the house, and therefore + went down with the best show of courage I could assume.—I will draw a + veil over the scene that presented itself—nature revolts, and my fair + friends would shudder at the detail. Suffice it to say, that I saw cars, + loaded with the dead and dying, and driven by their yet ensanguined + murderers; one of whom, in a tone of exultation, cried, 'Here is a + glorious day for France!' I endeavoured to assent, though with a + faultering voice, and, as soon as they were passed escaped to my room. + You may imagine I shall not easily recover the shock I received.—At this + moment they say, the enemy are retreating from Verdun. At any other time + this would have been desirable, but at present one knows not what to wish + for. Most probably, the report is only spread with the humane hope of + appeasing the mob. They have already twice attacked the Temple; and I + tremble lest this asylum of fallen majesty should ere morning, be + violated. +</p> +<p> + "Adieu—I know not if the courier will be permitted to depart; but, as I + believe the streets are not more unsafe than the houses, I shall make an + attempt to send this. I will write again in a few days. If to-morrow + should prove calm, I shall be engaged in enquiring after the fate of my + friends.—I beg my respects to Mons. And Mad. de ____; and entreat you + all to be as tranquil as such circumstances will permit.—You may be + certain of hearing any news that can give you pleasure immediately. I + have the honour to be," &c. &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_25"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + You will in future, I believe, find me but a dull correspondent. The + natural timidity of my disposition, added to the dread which a native of + England has of any violation of domestic security, renders me unfit for + the scenes I am engaged in. I am become stupid and melancholy, and my + letters will partake of the oppression of my mind. +</p> +<p> + At Paris, the massacres at the prisons are now over, but those in the + streets and in private houses still continue. Scarcely a post arrives + that does not inform M. de ____ of some friend or acquaintance being + sacrificed. Heaven knows where this is to end! +</p> +<p> + We had, for two days, notice that, pursuant to a decree of the Assembly, + commissioners were expected here at night, and that the tocsin would be + rung for every body to deliver up their arms. We did not dare go to bed + on either of these nights, but merely lay down in our robes de chambre, + without attempting to sleep. This dreaded business is, however, past. + Parties of the Jacobins paraded the streets yesterday morning, and + disarmed all they thought proper. I observed they had lists in their + hands, and only went to such houses as have an external appearance of + property. Mr. de ____, who has been in the service thirty years, + delivered his arms to a boy, who behaved to him with the utmost + insolence, whilst we sat trembling and almost senseless with fear the + whole time they remained in the house; and could I give you an idea of + their appearance, you would think my terror very justifiable. It is, + indeed, strange and alarming, that all who have property should be + deprived of the means of defending either that or their lives, at a + moment when Paris is giving an example of tumult and assassination to + every other part of the kingdom. Knowing no good reason for such + procedure, it is very natural to suspect a bad one.—I think, on many + accounts, we are more exposed here than at ____, and as soon as we can + procure horses we shall depart.—The following is the translation of our + last letter from Mr. P____. +</p> +<br /> +<p> + "I promised my kind friends to write as soon as I should have any thing + satisfactory to communicate: but, alas! I have no hope of being the + harbinger of any thing but circumstances of a very different tendency. + I can only give you details of the horrors I have already generally + described. Carnage has not yet ceased; and is only become more cool and + more discriminating. All the mild characteristics annihilated; and a + frantic cruelty, which is dignified with the name of patriotism, has + usurped ever faculty, and banished both reason and mercy. +</p> +<p> + "Mons. ____, whom I have hitherto known by reputation, as an upright, and + even humane man, had a brother shut up, with a number of other priests, + at the Carmes; and, by his situation and connections, he has such + influence as might, if exerted, have preserved the latter. The + unfortunate brother knowing this, found means, while hourly expecting his + fate, to convey a note to Mr. ____, begging he would immediately release, + and procure him an asylum. The messenger returned with an answer, that + Mons. ____ had no relations in the enemies of his country! +</p> +<p> + "A few hours after, the massacres at the Carmes took place.—One Panis,* + who is in the Comite de Surveillance, had, a few days previous to these + dreadful events, become, I know not on what occasion, the depositary of a + large sum of money belonging to a gentleman of his section. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Panis has since figured on various occasions. He is a member of + the Convention, and was openly accused of having been an accomplice + in the robbery of the Garde Meuble. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + "A secret and frivolous denunciation was made the pretext for throwing + the owner of the money into prison, where he remained till September, + when his friends, recollecting his danger, flew to the Committee and + applied for his discharge. Unfortunately, the only member of the + Committee present was Panis. He promised to take measures for an + immediate release.—Perhaps he kept his word, but the release was cruel + and final—the prison was attacked, and the victim heard of no more.—You + will not be surprized at such occurrences when I tell you that G____,* + whom you must remember to have heard of as a Jacobin at ____, is + President of the Committee above mentioned—yes, an assassin is now the + protector of the public safety, and the commune of Paris the patron of a + criminal who has merited the gibbet. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * G____ was afterwards elected (doubtless by a recommendation of the + Jacobins) Deputy for the department of Finisterre, to which he was + sent Commissioner by the Convention. On account of some + unwarrantable proceedings, and of some words that escaped him, which + gave rise to a suspicion that he was privy to the robbery of the + Garde Meuble, he was arrested by the municipality of Quimper + Corentin, of which place he is a native. The Jacobins applied for + his discharge, and for the punishment of the municipality; but the + Convention, who at that time rarely took any decisive measures, + ordered G____ to be liberated, but evaded the other part of the + petition which tended to revenge him. The affair of the Garde + Meuble, was, however, again brought forward; but, most probably, + many of the members had reasons for not discussing too nearly the + accusation against G____; and those who were not interested in + suppressing it, were too weak or too timid to pursue it farther. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + "—I know not if we are yet arrived at the climax of woe and iniquity, + but Brissot, Condorcet, Rolland, &c. and all those whose principles you + have reprobated as violent and dangerous, will now form the moderate side + of the Assembly. Perhaps even those who are now the party most dreaded, + may one day give place to yet more desperate leaders, and become in their + turn our best alternative. What will then be the situation of France? + Who can reflect without trembling at the prospect?—It is not yet safe to + walk the streets decently dressed; and I have been obliged to supply + myself with trowsers, a jacket, coloured neckcloths, and coarse linen, + which I take care to soil before I venture out. +</p> +<p> + "The Agrarian law is now the moral of Paris, and I had nearly lost my + life yesterday by tearing a placard written in support of it. I did it + imprudently, not supposing I was observed; and had not some people, known + as Jacobins, come up and interfered in my behalf, the consequence might + have been fatal.—It would be difficult, and even impossible, to attempt + a description of the manners of the people of Paris at this moment: the + licentiousness common to great cities is decency compared with what + prevails in this; it has features of a peculiar and striking description, + and the general expression is that of a monstrous union of opposite + vices. Alternately dissolute and cruel, gay and vindictive, the Parisian + vaunts amidst debauchery the triumph of assassination, and enlivens his + midnight orgies by recounting the sufferings of the massacred + aristocrates: women, whose profession it is to please, assume the <i>bonnet + rouge</i> [red cap], and affect, as a means of seduction, an intrepid and + ferocious courage.—I cannot yet learn if Mons. S____'s sister be alive; + her situation about the Queen makes it too doubtful; but endeavour to + give him hope—many may have escaped whose fears still detain them in + concealment. People of the first rank now inhabit garrets and cellars, + and those who appear are disguised beyond recollection; so that I do not + despair of the safety of some, who are now thought to have perished.— + I am, as you may suppose, in haste to leave this place, and I hope to + return to Montmorency tomorrow; but every body is soliciting passports. + The Hotel de Ville is besieged, and I have already attended two days + without success.—I beg my respectful homage to Monsieur and Madame de + ____; and I have the honour to be, with esteem, the affectionate servant + of my friends in general. +</p> +<center> + "L____." +</center> + +<p> + You will read M. L____'s letter with all the grief and indignation we + have already felt, and I will make no comment on it, but to give you a + slight sketch of the history of Guermeur, whom he mentions as being + President of the Committee of Surveillance.—In the absence of a man, + whom he called his friend, he seduced his wife, and eloped with her: the + husband overtook them, and fell in the dispute which insued; when + Guermeur, to avoid being taken by the officers of justice, abandoned his + companion to her fate, and escaped alone. After a variety of adventures, + he at length enlisted himself as a grenadier in the regiment of Dillon. + With much assurance, and talents cultivated above the situation in which + he appeared, he became popular amongst his fellow-soldiers, and the + military impunity, which is one effect of the revolution, cast a veil + over his former guilt, or rather indeed enabled him to defy the + punishment annexed to it. When the regiment was quartered at ____, he + frequented and harangued at the Jacobin club, perverted the minds of the + soldiers by seditious addresses, till at length he was deemed qualified + to quit the character of a subordinate incendiary, and figure amongst the + assassins at Paris. He had hitherto, I believe, acted without pay, for + he was deeply in debt, and without money or clothes; but a few days + previous to the tenth of August, a leader of the Jacobins supplied him + with both, paid his debts, procured his discharge, and sent him to Paris. + What intermediate gradations he may have passed through, I know not; but + it is not difficult to imagine the services that have advanced him to his + present situation.—It would be unsafe to risk this letter by the post, + and I close it hastily to avail myself of a present conveyance.—I + remain, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_26"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Arras, September 14, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The camp of Maulde is broken up, and we deferred our journey, that we + might pass a day at Douay with M. de ____'s son. The road within some + miles of that place is covered with corn and forage, the immediate + environs are begun to be inundated, and every thing wears the appearance + of impending hostility. The town is so full of troops, that without the + interest of our military friends we should scarcely have procured a + lodging. All was bustle and confusion, the enemy are very near, and the + French are preparing to form a camp under the walls. Amidst all this, we + found it difficult to satisfy our curiosity in viewing the churches and + pictures: some of the former are shut, and the latter concealed; we + therefore contented ourselves with seeing the principal ones. +</p> +<p> + The town-house is a very handsome building, where the Parliament was + holden previous to the revolution, and where all the business of the + department of the North is now transacted.—In the council-chamber, which + is very elegantly carved, was also a picture of the present King. They + were, at the very moment of our entrance, in the act of displacing it. + We asked the reason, and were told it was to be cut in pieces, and + portions sent to the different popular societies.—I know not if our + features betrayed the indignation we feared to express, but the man who + seemed to have directed this disposal of the portrait, told us we were + not English if we saw it with regret. I was not much delighted with such + a compliment to our country, and was glad to escape without farther + comment. +</p> +<p> + The manners of the people seem every where much changed, and are becoming + gross and inhuman. While we were walking on the ramparts, I happened to + have occasion to take down an address, and with the paper and pencil in + my hand turned out of the direct path to observe a chapel on one side of + it. In a moment I was alarmed by the cries of my companions, and beheld + the musquet of the centinel pointed at me, and M. de ____ expostulating + with him. I am not certain if he supposed I was taking a plan of the + fortifications, and meant really more than a threat; but I was + sufficiently frightened, and shall not again approach a town wall with + pencils and paper. +</p> +<p> + M. de ____ is one of the only six officers of his regiment who have not + emigrated. With an indignation heated by the works of modern + philosophers into an enthusiastic love of republican governments, and + irritated by the contempt and opposition he has met with from those of + this own class who entertain different principles, he is now become + almost a fanatic. What at first was only a political opinion is now a + religious tenet; and the moderate sectary has acquired the obstinacy of a + martyr, and, perhaps, the spirit of persecution. At the beginning of the + revolution, the necessity of deciding, a youthful ardour for liberty, and + the desire of preserving his fortune, probably determined him to become a + patriot; and pride and resentment have given stability to notions which + might otherwise have fluctuated with circumstances, or yielded to time. + This is but too general the case: the friends of rational reform, and the + supporters of the ancient monarchy, have too deeply offended each other + for pardon or confidence; and the country perhaps will be sacrificed by + the mutual desertions of those most concerned in its preservation. + Actuated only by selfishness and revenge, each party willingly consents + to the ruin of its opponents. The Clergy, already divided among + themselves, are abandoned by the Noblesse—the Noblesse are persecuted by + the commercial interest—and, in short, the only union is amongst the + Jacobins; that is, amongst a few weak persons who are deceived, and a + banditti who betray and profit by their "patriotism." +</p> +<p> + I was led to these reflections by my conversation with Mr. de L____ and + his companions. I believe they do not approve of the present extremes, + yet they expressed themselves with the utmost virulence against the + aristocrates, and would hear neither of reconcilement nor palliation. On + the other hand, these dispositions were not altogether unprovoked—the + young men had been persecuted by their relations, and banished the + society of their acquaintance; and their political opinions had acted as + an universal proscription. There were even some against whom the doors + of the parental habitation were shut.—These party violences are + terrible; and I was happy to perceive that the reciprocal claims of duty + and affection were not diminished by them, either in M. de ____, or his + son. He, however, at first refused to come to A____, because he + suspected the patriotism of our society. I pleaded, as an inducement, + the beauty of Mad. G____, but he told me she was an aristocrate. It was + at length, however, determined, that he should dine with us last Sunday, + and that all visitors should be excluded. He was prevented coming by + being ordered out with a party the day we left him; and he has written to + us in high spirits, to say, that, besides fulfilling his object, he had + returned with fifty prisoners. +</p> +<p> + We had a very narrow escape in coming home—the Hulans were at the + village of ____, an hour after we passed through it, and treated the poor + inhabitants, as they usually do, with great inhumanity.—Nothing has + alienated the minds of the people so much as the cruelties of these + troops—they plunder and ill treat all they encounter; and their avarice + is even less insatiable than their barbarity. How hard is it, that the + ambition of the Chiefs, and the wickedness of faction, should thus fall + upon the innocent cottager, who perhaps is equally a stranger to the + names of the one, and the principles of the other! +</p> +<p> + The public papers will now inform you, that the French are at liberty to + obtain a divorce on almost any pretext, or even on no pretext at all, + except what many may think a very good one—mutual agreement. A lady of + our acquaintance here is become a republican in consequence of the + decree, and probably will very soon avail herself of it; but this + conduct, I conceive, will not be very general. +</p> +<p> + Much has been said of the gallantry of the French ladies, and not + entirely without reason; yet, though sometimes inconstant wives, they + are, for the most part, faithful friends—they sacrifice the husband + without forsaking him, and their common interest is always promoted with + as much zeal as the most inviolable attachment could inspire. Mad. de + C____, whom we often meet in company, is the wife of an emigrant, and is + said not to be absolutely disconsolate at his absence; yet she is + indefatigable in her efforts to supply him with money: she even risks her + safety by her solicitude, and has just now prevailed on her favourite + admirer to hasten his departure for the frontiers, in order to convey a + sum she has with much difficulty been raising. Such instances are, I + believe, not very rare; and as a Frenchman usually prefers his interest + to every thing else, and is not quite so unaccommodating as an + Englishman, an amicable arrangement takes place, and one seldom hears of + a separation. +</p> +<p> + The inhabitants of Arras, with all their patriotism, are extremely averse + from the assignats; and it is with great reluctance that they consent to + receive them at two-thirds of their nominal value. This discredit of the + paper money has been now two months at a stand, and its rise or fall will + be determined by the success of the campaign.—I bid you adieu for the + last time from hence. We have already exceeded the proposed length of + our visit, and shall set out for St. Omer to-morrow.—Yours. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_27"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + St. Omer, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I am confined to my room by a slight indisposition, and, instead of + accompanying my friends, have taken up my pen to inform you that we are + thus far safe on our journey.—Do not, because you are surrounded by a + protecting element, smile at the idea of travelling forty or fifty miles + in safety. The light troops of the Austrian army penetrate so far, that + none of the roads on the frontier are entirely free from danger. My + female companions were alarmed the whole day—the young for their + baggage, and the old for themselves. +</p> +<p> + The country between this and Arras has the appearance of a garden + cultivated for the common use of its inhabitants, and has all the + fertility and beauty of which a flat surface is susceptible. Bethune and + Aire I should suppose strongly fortified. I did not fail, in passing + through the former, to recollect with veneration the faithful minister of + Henry the Fourth. The misfortunes of the descendant of Henry, whom + Sully* loved, and the state of the kingdom he so much cherished, made a + stronger impression on me than usual, and I mingled with the tribute of + respect a sentiment of indignation. +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Maximilien de Bethune, Duc de Sully. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + What perverse and malignant influence can have excited the people either + to incur or to suffer their present situation? Were we not well + acquainted with the arts of factions, the activity of bad men, and the + effect of their union, I should be almost tempted to believe this change + in the French supernatural. Less than three years ago, the name of Henri + Quatre was not uttered without enthusiasm. The piece that transmitted + the slightest anecdotes of his life was certain of success—the air that + celebrated him was listened to with delight—and the decorations of + beauty, when associated with the idea of this gallant Monarch, became + more irresistible.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * At this time it was the prevailing fashion to call any new + inventions of female dress after his name, and to decorate the + ornamental parts of furniture with his resemblance. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Yet Henry the Fourth is now a tyrant—his pictures and statues are + destroyed, and his memory is execrated!—Those who have reduced the + French to this are, doubtless, base and designing intriguers; yet I + cannot acquit the people, who are thus wrought on, of unfeelingness and + levity.—England has had its revolutions; but the names of Henry the + Fifth and Elizabeth were still revered: and the regal monuments, which + still exist, after all the vicissitudes of our political principles, + attest the mildness of the English republicans. +</p> +<p> + The last days of our stay at Arras were embittered by the distress of our + neighbour and acquaintance, Madame de B____. She has lost two sons under + circumstances so affecting, that I think you will be interested in the + relation.—The two young men were in the army, and quartered at + Perpignan, at a time when some effort of counter-revolution was said to + be intended. One of them was arrested as being concerned, and the other + surrendered himself prisoner to accompany his brother.—When the High + Court at Orleans was instituted for trying state-prisoners, those of + Perpignan were ordered to be conducted there, and the two B____'s, + chained together, were taken with the rest. On their arrival at Orleans, + their gaoler had mislaid the key that unlocked their fetters, and, not + finding it immediately, the young men produced one, which answered the + purpose, and released themselves. The gaoler looked at them with + surprize, and asked why, with such a means in their power, they had not + escaped in the night, or on the road. They replied, because they were + not culpable, and had no reason for avoiding a trial that would manifest + their innocence. Their heroism was fatal. They were brought, by a + decree of the Convention, from Orleans to Versailles, (on their way to + Paris,) where they were met by the mob, and massacred. +</p> +<p> + Their unfortunate mother is yet ignorant of their fate; but we left her + in a state little preferable to that which will be the effect of + certainty. She saw the decree for transporting the prisoners from + Orleans, and all accounts of the result have been carefully concealed + from her; yet her anxious and enquiring looks at all who approach her, + indicate but too well her suspicion of the truth.—Mons. de ____'s + situation is indescribable. Informed of the death of his sons, he is yet + obliged to conceal his sufferings, and wear an appearance of tranquillity + in the presence of his wife. Sometimes he escapes, when unable to + contain his emotions any longer, and remains at M. de ____'s till he + recovers himself. He takes no notice of the subject of his grief, and we + respect it too much to attempt to console him. The last time I asked him + after Madame de ____, he told me her spirits were something better, and, + added he, in a voice almost suffocated, "She is amusing herself with + working neckcloths for her sons!"—When you reflect that the massacres at + Paris took place on the second and third of September, and that the + decree was passed to bring the prisoners from Orleans (where they were in + safety) on the tenth, I can say nothing that will add to the horror of + this transaction, or to your detestation of its cause. Sixty-two, mostly + people of high rank, fell victims to this barbarous policy: they were + brought in a fort of covered waggons, and were murdered in heaps without + being taken out.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + * Perhaps the reader will be pleased at a discovery, which it would + have been unsafe to mention when made, or in the course of this + correspondence. The two young men here alluded to arrived at + Versailles, chained together, with their fellow-prisoners. + Surprize, perhaps admiration, had diverted the gaoler's attention + from demanding the key that opened their padlock, and it was still + in their possession. On entering Versailles, and observing the + crowd preparing to attack them, they divested themselves of their + fetters, and of every other incumbrance. In a few moments their + carriages were surrounded, their companions at one end were already + murdered, and themselves slightly wounded; but the confusion + increasing, they darted amidst the croud, and were in a moment + undistinguishable. They were afterwards taken under the protection + of an humane magistrate, who concealed them for some time, and they + are now in perfect security. They were the only two of the whole + number that escaped. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<a name="2H_4_28"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We passed a country so barren and uninteresting yesterday, that even a + professional traveller could not have made a single page of it. It was, + in every thing, a perfect contrast to the rich plains of Artois— + unfertile, neglected vallies and hills, miserable farms, still more + miserable cottages, and scarcely any appearance of population. The only + place where we could refresh the horses was a small house, over the door + of which was the pompous designation of Hotel d'Angleterre. I know not + if this be intended as a ridicule on our country, or as an attraction to + our countrymen, but I, however, found something besides the appellation + which reminded me of England, and which one does not often find in houses + of a better outside; for though the rooms were small, and only two in + number, they were very clean, and the hostess was neat and civil. The + Hotel d'Angleterre, indeed, was not luxuriously supplied, and the whole + of our repast was eggs and tea, which we had brought with us.—In the + next room to that we occupied were two prisoners chained, whom the + officers were conveying to Arras, for the purpose of better security. + The secret history of this business is worth relating, as it marks the + character of the moment, and the ascendancy which the Jacobins are daily + acquiring. +</p> +<p> + These men were apprehended as smugglers, under circumstances of peculiar + atrocity, and committed to the gaol at ____. A few days after, a young + girl, of bad character, who has much influence at the club, made a + motion, that the people, in a body, should demand the release of the + prisoners. The motion was carried, and the Hotel de Ville assailed by a + formidable troop of sailors, fish-women, &c.—The municipality refused to + comply, the Garde Nationale was called out, and, on the mob persisting, + fired over their heads, wounded a few, and the rest dispersed of + themselves.—Now you must understand, the latent motive of all this was + two thousand livres promised to one of the Jacobin leaders, if he + succeeded in procuring the men their liberty.—I do not advance this + merely on conjecture. The fact is well known to the municipality; and + the decent part of it would willingly have expelled this man, who is one + of their members, but that they found themselves too weak to engage in a + serious quarrel with the Jacobins.—One cannot reflect, without + apprehension, that any society should exist which can oppose the + execution of the laws with impunity, or that a people, who are little + sensible of realities, should be thus abused by names. They suffer, with + unfeeling patience, a thousand enormities—yet blindly risk their + liberties and lives to promote the designs of an adventurer, because he + harangues at a club, and calls himself a patriot.—I have just received + advice that my friends have left Lausanne, and are on their way to Paris. + Our first plan of passing the winter there will be imprudent, if not + impracticable, and we have concluded to take a house for the winter six + months at Amiens, Chantilly, or some place which has the reputation of + being quiet. I have already ordered enquiries to be made, and shall set + out with Mrs. ____ in a day or two for Amiens. I may, perhaps, not write + till our return; but shall not cease to be, with great truth.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_29"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The departement de la Somme has the reputation of being a little + aristocratic. I know not how far this be merited, but the people are + certainly not enthusiasts. The villages we passed on our road hither + were very different from those on the frontiers—we were hailed by no + popular sounds, no cries of Vive la nation! except from here and there + some ragged boy in a red cap, who, from habit, associated this salutation + with the appearance of a carriage. In every place where there are half a + dozen houses is planted an unthriving tree of liberty, which seems to + wither under the baneful influence of the <i>bonnet rouge</i>. [The red cap.] + This Jacobin attribute is made of materials to resist the weather, and + may last some time; but the trees of liberty, being planted unseasonably, + are already dead. I hope this will not prove emblematic, and that the + power of the Jacobins may not outlive the freedom of the people. +</p> +<p> + The Convention begin their labours under disagreeable auspices. A + general terror seems to have seized on the Parisians, the roads are + covered with carriages, and the inns filled with travellers. A new + regulation has just taken place, apparently intended to check this + restless spirit. At Abbeville, though we arrived late and were fatigued, + we were taken to the municipality, our passports collated with our + persons, and at the inn we were obliged to insert in a book our names, + the place of our birth, from whence we came, and where we were going. + This, you will say, has more the features of a mature Inquisition, than a + new-born Republic; but the French have different notions of liberty from + yours, and take these things very quietly.—At Flixecourt we eat out of + pewter spoons, and the people told us, with much inquietude, that they + had sold their plate, in expectation of a decree of the Convention to + take it from them. This decree, however, has not passed, but the alarm + is universal, and does not imply any great confidence in the new + government. +</p> +<p> + I have had much difficulty in executing my commission, and have at last + fixed upon a house, of which I fear my friends will not approve; but the + panic which depopulates Paris, the bombardment of Lisle, and the + tranquillity which has hitherto prevailed here, has filled the town, and + rendered every kind of habitation scarce, and extravagantly dear: for you + must remark, that though the Amienois are all aristocrates, yet when an + intimidated sufferer of the same party flies from Paris, and seeks an + asylum amongst them, they calculate with much exactitude what they + suppose necessity may compel him to give, and will not take a livre + less.—The rent of houses and lodgings, like the national funds, rises + and falls with the public distresses, and, like them, is an object of + speculation: several persons to whom we were addressed were extremely + indifferent about letting their houses, alledging as a reason, that if + the disorders of Paris should increase, they had no doubt of letting them + to much greater advantage. +</p> +<p> + We were at the theatre last night—it was opened for the first time since + France has been declared a republic, and the Jacobins vociferated loudly + to have the fleur de lys, ad other regal emblems, effaced. Obedience was + no sooner promised to this command, than it was succeeded by another not + quite so easily complied with—they insisted on having the Marsellois + Hymn sung. In vain did the manager, with a ludicrous sort of terror, + declare, that there were none of his company who had any voice, or who + knew either the words of the music of the hymn in question. <i>"C'est egal, + il faut chanter,"</i> ["No matter for that, they must sing."] resounded from + all the patriots in the house. At last, finding the thing impossible, + they agreed to a compromise; and one of the actors promised to sing it on + the morrow, as well as the trifling impediment of having no voice would + permit him.—You think your galleries despotic when they call for an + epilogue that is forgotten, and the actress who should speak it is + undrest; or when they insist upon enlivening the last acts of Jane Shore + with Roast Beef! What would you think if they would not dispense with a + hornpipe on the tight-rope by Mrs. Webb? Yet, bating the danger, I + assure you, the audience of Amiens was equally unreasonable. But liberty + at present seems to be in an undefined state; and until our rulers shall + have determined what it is, the matter will continue to be settled as it + is now—by each man usurping as large a portion of tyranny as his + situation will admit of. He who submits without repining to his + district, to his municipality, or even to the club, domineers at the + theatre, or exercises in the street a manual censure on aristocratic + apparel.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *It was common at this time to insult women in the streets if + dressed too well, or in colours the people chose to call + aristocratic. I was myself nearly thrown down for having on a straw + bonnet with green ribbons. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + Our embarrassment for small change is renewed: many of the communes who + had issued bills of five, ten, and fifteen sols, repayable in assignats, + are become bankrupts, which circumstance has thrown such a discredit on + all this kind of nominal money, that the bills of one town will not pass + at another. The original creation of these bills was so limited, that no + town had half the number requisite for the circulation of its + neighbourhood; and this decrease, with the distrust that arises from the + occasion of it, greatly adds to the general inconvenience. +</p> +<p> + The retreat of the Prussian army excites more surprize than interest, and + the people talk of it with as much indifference as they would of an event + that had happened beyond the Ganges. The siege of Lisle takes off all + attention from the relief of Thionville—not on account of its + importance, but on account of its novelty.—I remain, Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_30"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Abbeville, September, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + We left Amiens early yesterday morning, but were so much delayed by the + number of volunteers on the road, that it was late before we reached + Abbeville. I was at first somewhat alarmed at finding ourselves + surrounded by so formidable a cortege; they however only exacted a + declaration of our political principles, and we purchased our safety by a + few smiles, and exclamations of vive la nation! There were some hundreds + of these recruits much under twenty; but the poor fellows, exhilarated by + their new uniform and large pay, were going gaily to decide their fate by + that hazard which puts youth and age on a level, and scatters with + indiscriminating hand the cypress and the laurel. +</p> +<p> + At Abbeville all the former precautions were renewed—we underwent + another solemn identification of our persons at the Hotel de Ville, and + an abstract of our history was again enregistered at the inn. One would + really suppose that the town was under apprehensions of a siege, or, at + least, of the plague. My "paper face" was examined as suspiciously as + though I had had the appearance of a travestied Achilles; and M____'s, + which has as little expression as a Chinese painting, was elaborately + scrutinized by a Dogberry in spectacles, who, perhaps, fancied she had + the features of a female Machiavel. All this was done with an air of + importance sufficiently ludicrous, when contrasted with the object; but + we met with no incivility, and had nothing to complain of but a little + additional fatigue, and the delay of our dinner. +</p> +<p> + We stopped to change horses at Bernay, and I soon perceived our landlady + was a very ardent patriot. In a room, to which we waded at great risk of + our clothes, was a representation of the siege of the Bastille, and + prints of half a dozen American Generals, headed by Mr. Thomas Paine. On + descending, we found out hostess exhibiting a still more forcible picture + of curiosity than Shakspeare's blacksmith. The half-demolished repast + was cooling on the table, whilst our postilion retailed the Gazette, and + the pigs and ducks were amicably grazing together on whatever the kitchen + produced. The affairs of the Prussians and Austrians were discussed with + entire unanimity, but when these politicians, as is often the case, came + to adjust their own particular account, the conference was much less + harmonious. The postilion offered a ten sols billet, which the landlady + refused: one persisted in its validity, the other in rejecting it—till, + at last, the patriotism of neither could endure this proof, and peace was + concluded by a joint execration of those who invented this fichu papier— + "Sorry paper." +</p> +<p> + At ____ we met our friend, Mad. de ____, with part of her family and an + immense quantity of baggage. I was both surprized and alarmed at such an + apparition, and found, on enquiry, that they thought themselves unsafe at + Arras, and were going to reside near M. de ____'s estate, where they were + better known. I really began to doubt the prudence of our establishing + ourselves here for the winter. Every one who has it in his power + endeavours to emigrate, even those who till now have been zealous + supporters of the revolution.—Distrust and apprehension seem to have + taken possession of every mind. Those who are in towns fly to the + country, while the inhabitant of the isolated chateau takes refuge in the + neighbouring town. Flocks of both aristocrates and patriots are + trembling and fluttering at the foreboding storm, yet prefer to abide its + fury, rather than seek shelter and defence together. I, however, flatter + myself, that the new government will not justify this fear; and as I am + certain my friends will not return to England at this season, I shall not + endeavour to intimidate or discourage them from their present + arrangement. We shall, at least, be enabled to form some idea of a + republican constitution, and I do not, on reflection, conceive that any + possible harm can happen to us. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_31"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + October, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I shall not date from this place again, intending to quit it as soon as + possible. It is disturbed by the crouds from the camps, which are broken + up, and the soldiers are extremely brutal and insolent. So much are the + people already familiarized with the unnatural depravity of manners that + begins to prevail, that the wife of the Colonel of a battalion now here + walks the streets in a red cap, with pistols at her girdle, boasting of + the numbers she has destroyed at the massacres in August and September. +</p> +<p> + The Convention talk of the King's trial as a decided measure; yet no one + seems to admit even the possibility that such an act can be ever + intended. A few believe him culpable, many think him misled, and many + acquit him totally: but all agree, that any violation of his person would + be an atrocity disgraceful to the nation at large.—The fate of Princes + is often disastrous in proportion to their virtues. The vanity, + selfishness, and bigotry of Louis the Fourteenth were flattered while he + lived, and procured him the appellation of Great after his death. The + greatest military talents that France has given birth to seemed created + to earn laurels, not for themselves, but for the brow of that + vain-glorious Monarch. Industry and Science toiled but for his + gratification, and Genius, forgetting its dignity, willingly received + from his award the same it has since bestowed. +</p> +<p> + Louis the Fifteenth, who corrupted the people by his example, and ruined + them by his expence, knew no diminution of the loyalty, whatever he might + of the affection, of his people, and ended his days in the practice of + the same vices, and surrounded by the same luxury, in which he had passed + them. +</p> +<p> + Louis the Sixteenth, to whom scarcely his enemies ascribe any vices, for + its outrages against whom faction finds no excuse but in the facility of + his nature—whose devotion is at once exemplary and tolerant—who, in an + age of licentiousness, is remarkable for the simplicity of his manners— + whose amusements were liberal or inoffensive—and whose concessions to + his people form a striking contrast with the exactions of his + predecessors.—Yes, the Monarch I have been describing, and, I think, not + partially, has been overwhelmed with sorrow and indignities—his person + has been degraded, that he might be despoiled of his crown, and perhaps + the sacrifice of his crown may be followed by that of his life. When we + thus see the punishment of guilt accumulated on the head of him who has + not participated in it, and vice triumph in the security that should seem + the lot of innocence, we can only adduce new motives to fortify ourselves + in this great truth of our religion—that the chastisement of the one, + and reward of the other, must be looked for beyond the inflictions or + enjoyments of our present existence. +</p> +<p> + I do not often moralize on paper, but there are moments when one derives + one's best consolation from so moralizing; and this easy and simple + justification of Providence, which refers all that appears inconsistent + here to the retribution of a future state, is pointed out less as the + duty than the happiness of mankind. This single argument of religion + solves every difficulty, and leaves the mind in fortitude and peace; + whilst the pride of sceptical philosophy traces whole volumes, only to + establish the doubts, and nourish the despair, of its disciples. +</p> +<p> + Adieu. I cannot conclude better than with these reflections, at a time + when disbelief is something too fashionable even amongst our + countrymen.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_32"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, October, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + I arrived here the day on which a ball was given to celebrate the return + of the volunteers who had gone to the assistance of Lisle.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *The bombardment of Lisle commenced on the twenty-ninth of + September, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and continued, almost + without interruption, until the sixth of October. Many of the + public buildings, and whole quarters of the town, were so much + damaged or destroyed, that the situation of the streets were + scarcely distinguishable. The houses which the fire obliged their + inhabitants to abandon, were pillaged by barbarians, more merciless + than the Austrians themselves. Yet, amidst these accumulated + horrors, the Lillois not only preserved their courage, but their + presence of mind: the rich incited and encouraged the poor; those + who were unable to assist with their labour, rewarded with their + wealth: the men were employed in endeavouring to extinguish the fire + of the buildings, or in preserving their effects; while women and + children snatched the opportunity of extinguishing the fuzes of the + bombs as soon as they fell, at which they became very daring and + dexterous. During the whole of this dreadful period, not one + murmur, not one proposition to surrender, was heard from any party. + + —The Convention decreed, amidst the wildest enthusiasm of applause, + that Lisle had deserved well of the country. + + —Forty-two thousand five hundred balls were fired, and the damages + were estimated at forty millions of livres. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + The French, indeed, never refuse to rejoice when they are ordered; but as + these festivities are not spontaneous effusions, but official ordinances, + and regulated with the same method as a tax or recruitment, they are of + course languid and uninteresting. The whole of their hilarity seems to + consist in the movement of the dance, in which they are by not means + animated; and I have seen, even among the common people, a cotillion + performed as gravely and as mechanically as the ceremonies of a Chinese + court.—I have always thought, with Sterne, that we were mistaken in + supposing the French a gay nation. It is true, they laugh much, have + great gesticulation, and are extravagantly fond of dancing: but the laugh + is the effect of habit, and not of a risible sensation; the gesture is + not the agitation of the mind operating upon the body, but constitutional + volatility; and their love of dancing is merely the effect of a happy + climate, (which, though mild, does not enervate,) and that love of action + which usually accompanies mental vacancy, when it is not counteracted by + heat, or other physical causes. +</p> +<p> + I know such an opinion, if publicly avowed, would be combated as false + and singular; yet I appeal to those who have at all studied the French + character, not as travellers, but by a residence amongst them, for the + support of my opinion. Every one who understands the language, and has + mixed much in society, must have made the same observations.—See two + Frenchmen at a distance, and the vehemence of their action, and the + expression of their features, shall make you conclude they are discussing + some subject, which not only interests, but delights them. Enquire, and + you will find they were talking of the weather, or the price of a + waistcoat!—In England you would be tempted to call in a peace-officer at + the loud tone and menacing attitudes with which two people here very + amicably adjust a bargain for five livres.—In short, we mistake that for + a mental quality which, in fact, is but a corporeal one; and, though the + French may have many good and agreeable points of character, I do not + include gaiety among the number. +</p> +<p> + I doubt very much of my friends will approve of their habitation. I + confess I am by no means satisfied with it myself; and, with regard to + pecuniary consideration, my engagement is not an advantageous one. + —Madame Dorval, of whom I have taken the house, is a character very + common in France, and over which I was little calculated to have the + ascendant. Officiously polite in her manners, and inflexibly attentive + to her interest, she seemingly acquiesces in every thing you propose. + You would even fancy she was solicitous to serve you; yet, after a + thousand gracious sentiments, and as many implied eulogiums on her + liberality and generosity, you find her return, with unrelenting + perseverance, to some paltry proposition, by which she is to gain a few + livres; and all this so civilly, so sentimentally, and so determinedly, + that you find yourself obliged to yield, and are duped without being + deceived. +</p> +<p> + The lower class have here, as well as on your side of the water, the + custom of attributing to Ministers and Governments some connection with, + or controul over, the operations of nature. I remarked to a woman who + brings me fruit, that the grapes were bad and dear this year—<i>"Ah! mon + Dieu, oui, ils ne murrissent pas. Il me semble que tout va mal depuis + qu'on a invente la nation."</i> ["Ah! Lord, they don't ripen now.—For my + part, I think nothing has gone well since the nation was first + invented."] +</p> +<p> + I cannot, like the imitators of Sterne, translate a chapter of sentiment + from every incident that occurs, or from every physiognomy I encounter; + yet, in circumstances like the present, the mind, not usually observing, + is tempted to comment.—I was in a milliner's shop to-day, and took + notice on my entering, that its mistress was, whilst at her work, + learning the <i>Marseillois</i> Hymn. [A patriotic air, at this time highly + popular.] Before I had concluded my purchase, an officer came in to + prepare her for the reception of four volunteers, whom she was to lodge + the two ensuing nights. She assented, indeed, very graciously, (for a + French woman never loses the command of her features,) but a moment + after, the Marseillois, which lay on the counter, was thrown aside in a + pet, and I dare say she will not resume her patriotic taste, nor be + reconciled to the revolution, until some days after the volunteers shall + have changed their quarters. +</p> +<p> + This quartering of troops in private houses appears to me the most + grievous and impolitic of all taxes; it adds embarrassment to expence, + invades domestic comfort, and conveys such an idea of military + subjection, that I wonder any people ever submits to it, or any + government ever ventures to impose it. +</p> +<p> + I know not if the English are conscious of their own importance at this + moment, but it is certain they are the centre of the hopes and fears of + all parties, I might say of all Europe. The aristocrates wait with + anxiety and solicitude a declaration of war, whilst their opponents + regard such an event as pregnant with distress, and even as the signal of + their ruin. The body of the people of both parties are averse from + increasing the number of their enemies; but as the Convention may be + directed by other motives than the public wish, it is impossible to form + any conclusion on the subject. I am, of course, desirous of peace, and + should be so from selfishness, if I were not from philanthropy, as a + cessation of it at this time would disconcert all our plans, and oblige + us to seek refuge at ____, which has just all that is necessary for our + happiness, except what is most desirable—a mild and dry atmosphere.— + Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_33"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + Amiens, November, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + The arrival of my friends has occasioned a short suspension of my + correspondence: but though I have been negligent, I assure you, my dear + brother, I have not been forgetful; and this temporary preference of the + ties of friendship to those of nature, will be excused, when you consider + our long separation. +</p> +<p> + My intimacy with Mrs. D____ began when I first came to this country, and + at every subsequent visit to the continent it has been renewed and + increased into that rational kind of attachment, which your sex seldom + allow in ours, though you yourselves do not abound in examples of it. + Mrs. D____ is one of those characters which are oftener loved than + admired—more agreeable than handsome—good-natured, humane, and + unassuming—and with no mental pretensions beyond common sense tolerably + well cultivated. The shades of this portraiture are an extreme of + delicacy, bordering on fastidiousness—a trifle of hauteur, not in + manners, but disposition—and, perhaps, a tincture of affectation. These + foibles are, however, in a great degree, constitutional: she is more an + invalid than myself; and ill health naturally increases irritability, and + renders the mind less disposed to bear with inconveniencies; we avoid + company at first, through a sense of our infirmities, till this timidity + becomes habitual, and settles almost into aversion.—The valetudinarian, + who is obliged to fly the world, in time fancies herself above it, and + ends by supposing there is some superiority in differing from other + people. Mr. D____ is one of the best men existing—well bred and well + informed; yet, without its appearing to the common observer, he is of a + very singular and original turn of mind. He is most exceedingly nervous, + and this effect of his physical construction has rendered him so + susceptible, that he is continually agitated and hurt by circumstances + which others pass by unnoticed. In other respects he is a great lover of + exercise, fond of domestic life, reads much, and has an aversion from + bustle of all kind. +</p> +<p> + The banishment of the Priests, which in many instances was attended with + circumstances of peculiar atrocity, has not yet produced those effects + which were expected from it, and which the promoters of the measure + employed as a pretext for its adoption. There are indeed now no masses + said but by the Constitutional Clergy; but as the people are usually as + ingenious in evading laws as legislators are in forming them, many + persons, instead of attending the churches, which they think profaned by + priests who have taken the oaths, flock to church-yards, chapels, or + other places, once appropriated to religious worship, but in disuse since + the revolution, and of course not violated by constitutional masses. The + cemetery of St. Denis, at Amiens, though large, is on Sundays and + holidays so crouded, that it is almost difficult to enter it. Here the + devotees flock in all weathers, say their mass, and return with the + double satisfaction of having preserved their allegiance to the Pope, and + risked persecution in a cause they deem meritorious. To say truth, it is + not very surprizing that numbers should be prejudiced against the + constitutional clergy. Many of them are, I doubt not, liberal and + well-meaning men, who have preferred peace and submission to theological + warfare, and who might not think themselves justified in opposing their + opinion to a national decision: yet are there also many of profligate + lives, who were never educated for the profession, and whom the + circumstances of the times have tempted to embrace it as a trade, which + offered subsistence without labour, and influence without wealth, and + which at once supplied a veil for licentiousness, and the means of + practising it. Such pastors, it must be confessed, have little claim to + the confidence or respect of the people; and that there are such, I do + not assert, but on the most credible information. I will only cite two + instances out of many within my own knowledge. +</p> +<p> + P____n, bishop of St. Omer, was originally a priest of Arras, of vicious + character, and many of his ordinations have been such as might be + expected from such a patron.—A man of Arras, who was only known for his + vicious pursuits, and who had the reputation of having accelerated the + death of his wife by ill treatment, applied to P____n to marry him a + second time. The good Bishop, preferring the interest of his friend to + the salvation of his flock, advised him to relinquish the project of + taking a wife, and offered to give him a cure. The proposal was accepted + on the spot, and this pious associate of the Reverend P____n was + immediately invested with the direction of the consciences, and the care + of the morals, of an extensive parish. +</p> +<p> + Acts of this nature, it is to be imagined, were pursued by censure and + ridicule; but the latter was not often more successful than on the + following occasion:—Two young men, whose persons were unknown to the + bishop, one day procured an audience, and requested he would recommend + them to some employment that would procure them the means of subsistence. + This was just a time when the numerous vacancies that had taken place + were not yet supplied, and many livings were unfilled for want of + candidates. The Bishop, who was unwilling that the nonjuring priests + should have the triumph of seeing their benefices remain vacant, fell + into the snare, and proposed their taking orders. The young men + expressed their joy at the offer; but, after looking confusedly on each + other, with some difficulty and diffidence, confessed their lives had + been such as to preclude them from the profession, which, but for this + impediment, would have satisfied them beyond their hopes. The Bishop + very complaisantly endeavoured to obviate thesse objections, while they + continued to accuse themselves of all the sins in the decalogue; but the + Prelate at length observing he had ordained many worse, the young men + smiled contemptuously, and, turning on their heels, replied, that if + priests were made of worse men than they had described themselves to be, + they begged to be excused from associating with such company. +</p> +<p> + Dumouriez, Custine, Biron, Dillon, &c. are doing wonders, in spite of the + season; but the laurel is an ever-green, and these heroes gather it + equally among the snows of the Alps, and the fogs of Belgium. If we may + credit the French papers too, what they call the cause of liberty is not + less successfully propagated by the pen than the sword. England is said + to be on the eve of a revolution, and all its inhabitants, except the + King and Mr. Pitt, become Jacobins. If I did not believe "the wish was + father to the thought," I should read these assertions with much + inquietude, as I have not yet discovered the excellencies of a republican + form of government sufficiently to make me wish it substituted for our + own.—It should seem that the Temple of Liberty, as well as the Temple of + Virtue, is placed on an ascent, and that as many inflexions and + retrogradations occur in endeavouring to attain it. In the ardour of + reaching these difficult acclivities, a fall sometimes leaves us lower + than the situation we first set out from; or, to speak without a figure, + so much power is exercised by our leaders, and so much submission exacted + from the people, that the French are in danger of becoming habituated to + a despotism which almost sanctifies the errors of their ancient monarchy, + while they suppose themselves in the pursuit of a degree of freedom more + sublime and more absolute than has been enjoyed by any other nation.— + Attempts at political as well as moral perfection, when carried beyond + the limits compatible with a social state, or the weakness of our + natures, are likely to end in a depravity which moderate governments and + rational ethics would have prevented. +</p> +<p> + The debates of the Convention are violent and acrimonious. Robespierre + has been accused of aspiring to the Dictatorship, and his defence was by + no means calculated to exonerate him from the charge. All the chiefs + reproach each other with being the authors of the late massacres, and + each succeeds better in fixing the imputation on his neighbour, than in + removing it from himself. General reprobation, personal invectives, and + long speeches, are not wanting; but every thing which tends to + examination and enquiry is treated with much more delicacy and composure: + so that I fear these first legislators of the republic must, for the + present, be content with the reputation they have assigned each other, + and rank amongst those who have all the guilt, but want the courage, of + assassins. +</p> +<p> + I subjoin an extract from a newspaper, which has lately appeared.* +</p> +<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote> + *Extract from <i>The Courier de l'Egalite,</i> November, 1792: + + "There are discontented people who still venture to obtrude their + sentiments on the public. One of them, in a public print, thus + expresses himself— + + 'I assert, that the newspapers are sold and devoted to falsehood. + At this price they purchase the liberty of appearing; and the + exclusive privilege they enjoy, as well as the contradictory and + lying assertions they all contain, prove the truth of what I + advance. They are all preachers of liberty, yet never was liberty + so shamefully outraged—of respect for property, and property was at + no time so little held sacred—of personal security, yet when were + there committed so many massacres? and, at the very moment I am + writing, new ones are premeditated. They call vehemently for + submission, and obedience to the laws, but the laws had never less + influence; and while our compliance with such as we are even + ignorant of is exacted, it is accounted a crime to execute those in + force. Every municipality has its own arbitrary code—every + battalion, every private soldier, exercises a sovereignty, a most + absolute despotism; and yet the Gazettes do not cease to boast the + excellence of such a government. They have, one and all, attributed + the massacres of the tenth of August and the second of September, + and the days following each, to a popular fermentation. The + monsters! they have been careful not to tell us, that each of these + horrid scenes (at the prisons, at La Force, at the Abbaye, &c. &c.) + was presided by municipal officers in their scarfs, who pointed out + the victims, and gave the signal for the assassination. It was + (continue the Journals) the error of an irritated people—and yet + their magistrates were at the head of it: it was a momentary error; + yet this error of a moment continued during six whole days of the + coolest reflection—it was only at the close of the seventh that + Petion made his appearance, and affected to persuade the people to + desist. The assassins left off only from fatigue, and at this + moment they are preparing to begin again. The Journals do not tell + us that the chief of these <i>Scelerats</i> [We have no term in the + English language that conveys an adequate meaning for this word—it + seems to express the extreme of human wickedness and atrocity.] + employed subordinate assassins, whom they caused to be clandestinely + murdered in their turn, as though they hoped to destroy the proof of + their crime, and escape the vengeance that awaits them. But the + people themselves were accomplices in the deed, for the Garde + Nationale gave their assistance,'" &c. &c. +</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote> +<p> + In spite of the murder of so many journalists, and the destruction of the + printing-offices, it treats the September business so freely, that the + editor will doubtless soon be silenced. Admitting these accusations to + be unfounded, what ideas must the people have of their magistrates, when + they are credited? It is the prepossession of the hearer that gives + authenticity to fiction; and such atrocities would neither be imputed to, + nor believed of, men not already bad.—Yours, &c. +</p> +<a name="2H_4_34"><!-- H2 anchor --></a> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2> + December, 1792. +</h2> +<p> + Dear Brother, +</p> +<p> + All the public prints still continue strongly to insinuate, that England + is prepared for an insurrection, and Scotland already in actual + rebellion: but I know the character of our countrymen too well to be + persuaded that they have adopted new principles as easily as they would + adopt a new mode, or that the visionary anarchists of the French + government can have made many proselytes among an humane and rational + people. For many years we were content to let France remain the + arbitress of the lighter departments of taste: lately she has ceded this + province to us, and England has dictated with uncontested superiority. + This I cannot think very strange; for the eye in time becomes fatigued by + elaborate finery, and requires only the introduction of simple elegance + to be attracted by it. But if, while we export fashions to this country, + we should receive in exchange her republican systems, it would be a + strange revolution indeed; and I think, in such a commerce, we should be + far from finding the balance in our favour. I have, in fact, little + solicitude about these diurnal falsehoods, though I am not altogether + free from alarm as to their tendency. I cannot help suspecting it is to + influence the people to a belief that such dispositions exist in England + as preclude the danger of a war, in case it should be thought necessary + to sacrifice the King. +</p> +<p> + I am more confirmed in this opinion, from the recent discovery, with the + circumstances attending it, of a secret iron chest at the Tuilleries. + The man who had been employed to construct this recess, informs the + minister, Rolland; who, instead of communicating the matter to the + Convention, as it was very natural he should do on an occasion of so much + importance, and requiring it to be opened in the presence of proper + witnesses, goes privately himself, takes the papers found into his own + possession, and then makes an application for a committee to examine + them. Under these suspicious and mysterious appearances, we are told + that many letters, &c. are found, which inculpate the King; and perhaps + the fate of this unfortunate Monarch is to be decided by evidence not + admissible with justice in the case of the obscurest malefactor. Yet + Rolland is the hero of a party who call him, par excellence, the virtuous + Rolland! Perhaps you will think, with me, that this epithet is + misapplied to a man who has risen, from an obscure situation to that of + first Minister, without being possessed of talents of that brilliant or + prominent class which sometimes force themselves into notice, without the + aid of wealth or the support of patronage. +</p> +<p> + Rolland was inspector of manufactories in this place, and afterwards at + Lyons; and I do not go too far in advancing, that a man of very rigid + virtue could not, from such a station, have attained so suddenly the one + he now possesses. Virtue is of an unvarying and inflexible nature: it + disdains as much to be the flatterer of mobs, as the adulator of Princes: + yet how often must he, who rises so far above his equals, have stooped + below them? How often must he have sacrificed both his reason and his + principles? How often have yielded to the little, and opposed the great, + not from conviction, but interest? For in this the meanest of mankind + resemble the most exalted; he bestows not his confidence on him who + resists his will, nor subscribes to the advancement of one whom he does + not hope to influence.—I may almost venture to add, that more + dissimulation, meaner concessions, and more tortuous policy, are + requisite to become the idol of the people, than are practised to acquire + and preserve the favour of the most potent Monarch in Europe. The + French, however, do not argue in this manner, and Rolland is at present + very popular, and his popularity is said to be greatly supported by the + literary talents of his wife. +</p> +<p> + I know not if you rightly understand these party distinctions among a set + of men whom you must regard as united in the common cause of establishing + a republic in France, but you have sometimes had occasion to remark in + England, that many may amicably concur in the accomplishment of a work, + who differ extremely about the participation of its advantages; and this + is already the case with the Convention. Those who at present possess + all the power, and are infinitely the strongest, are wits, moralists, and + philosophers by profession, having Brissot, Rolland, Petion, Concorcet, + &c. at their head; their opponents are adventurers of a more desperate + cast, who make up by violence what they want in numbers, and are led by + Robespierre, Danton, Chabot, &c. &c. The only distinction of these + parties is, I believe, that the first are vain and systematical + hypocrites, who have originally corrupted the minds of the people by + visionary and insidious doctrines, and now maintain their superiority by + artifice and intrigue: their opponents, equally wicked, and more daring, + justify that turpitude which the others seek to disguise, and appear + almost as bad as they are. The credulous people are duped by both; while + the cunning of the one, and the vehemence of the other, alternately + prevail.—But something too much of politics, as my design is in general + rather to mark their effect on the people, than to enter on more + immediate discussions. +</p> +<p> + Having been at the Criminal Tribunal to-day, I now recollect that I have + never yet described to you the costume of the French Judges.—Perhaps + when I have before had occasion to speak of it, your imagination may have + glided to Westminster Hall, and depicted to you the scarlet robes and + voluminous wigs of its respectable magistrates: but if you would form an + idea of a magistrate here, you must bring your mind to the abstraction of + Crambo, and figure to yourself a Judge without either gown, wig, or any + of those venerable appendages. Nothing indeed can be more becoming or + gallant, than this judicial accoutrement—it is black, with a silk cloak + of the same colour, in the Spanish form, and a round hat, turned up + before, with a large plume of black feathers. This, when the magistrate + happens to be young, has a very theatrical and romantic appearance; but + when it is worn by a figure a little Esopian, or with a large bushy + perriwig, as I have sometimes seen it, the effect is still less awful; + and a stranger, on seeing such an apparition in the street, is tempted to + suppose it a period of jubilee, and that the inhabitants are in + masquerade. +</p> +<p> + It is now the custom for all people to address each other by the + appellation of Citizen; and whether you are a citizen or not—whether you + inhabit Paris, or are a native of Peru—still it is an indication of + aristocracy, either to exact, or to use, any other title. This is all + congruous with the system of the day: the abuses are real, the reform is + imaginary. The people are flattered with sounds, while they are losing + in essentials. And the permission to apply the appellation of Citizen to + its members, is but a poor compensation for the despotism of a department + or a municipality. +</p> +<p> + In vain are the people flattered with a chimerical equality—it cannot + exist in a civilized state, and if it could exist any where, it would not + be in France. The French are habituated to subordination—they naturally + look up to something superior—and when one class is degraded, it is only + to give place to another. +</p> +<p> + —The pride of the noblesse is succeeded by the pride of the merchant— + the influence of wealth is again realized by cheap purchases of the + national domains—the abandoned abbey becomes the delight of the opulent + trader, and replaces the demolished chateau of the feudal institution. + Full of the importance which the commercial interest is to acquire under + a republic, the wealthy man of business is easily reconciled to the + oppression of the superior classes, and enjoys, with great dignity, his + new elevation. The counting-house of a manufacturer of woollen cloth is + as inaccessible as the boudoir of a Marquis; while the flowered brocade + gown and well-powdered curls of the former offer a much more imposing + exterior than the chintz robe de chambre and dishevelled locks of the + more affable man of fashion. +</p> +<p> + I have read, in some French author, a maxim to this effect:—"Act with + your friends as though they should one day be your enemies;" and the + existing government seems amply to have profited by the admonition of + their country-man: for notwithstanding they affirm, that all France + supports, and all England admires them, this does not prevent their + exercising a most vigilant inquisition over the inhabitants of both + countries.—It is already sagaciously hinted, that Mr. Thomas Paine may + be a spy, and every householder who receives a lodger or visitor, and + every proprietor who lets a house, is obliged to register the names of + those he entertains, or who are his tenants, and to become responsible + for their conduct. This is done at the municipality, and all who thus + venture to change their residence, of whatever age, sex, or condition, + must present themselves, and submit to an examination. The power of the + municipalities is indeed very great; and as they are chiefly selected + from the lower class of shop-keepers, you may conclude that their + authority is not exercised with much politeness or moderation. +</p> +<p> + The timid or indolent inhabitant of London, whose head has been filled + with the Bastilles and police of the ancient government, and who would as + soon have ventured to Constantinople as to Paris, reads, in the debates + of the Convention, that France is now the freeest country in the world, + and that strangers from all corners of it flock to offer their adorations + in this new Temple of Liberty. Allured by these descriptions, he + resolves on the journey, willing, for once in his life, to enjoy a taste + of the blessing in sublimate, which he now learns has hitherto been + allowed him only in the gross element.—He experiences a thousand + impositions on landing with his baggage at Calais, but he submits to them + without murmuring, because his countrymen at Dover had, on his + embarkation, already kindly initiated him into this science of taxing the + inquisitive spirit of travellers. After inscribing his name, and + rewarding the custom-house officers for rummaging his portmanteau, he + determines to amuse himself with a walk about the town. The first + centinel he encounters stops him, because he has no cockade: he purchases + one at the next shop, (paying according to the exigency of the case,) and + is suffered to pass on. When he has settled his bill at the Auberge "a + l'Angloise," and emagines he has nothing to do but to pursue his journey, + he finds he has yet to procure himself a passport. He waits an hour and + an half for an officer, who at length appears, and with a rule in one + hand, and a pen in the other, begins to measure the height, and take an + inventory of the features of the astonished stranger. By the time this + ceremony is finished, the gates are shut, and he can proceed no farther, + till the morrow. He departs early, and is awakened twice on the road to + Boulogne to produce his passport: still, however, he keeps his temper, + concluding, that the new light has not yet made its way to the frontiers, + and that these troublesome precautions may be necessary near a port. He + continues his route, and, by degrees, becomes habituated to this regimen + of liberty; till, perhaps, on the second day, the validity of his + passport is disputed, the municipality who granted it have the reputation + of aristocracy, or the whole is informal, and he must be content to wait + while a messenger is dispatched to have it rectified, and the officers + establish the severity of their patriotism at the expence of the + stranger. +</p> +<p> + Our traveller, at length, permitted to depart, feels his patience + wonderfully diminished, execrates the regulations of the coast, and the + ignorance of small towns, and determines to stop a few days and observe + the progress of freedom at Ameins. Being a large commercial place, he + here expects to behold all the happy effects of the new constitution; he + congratulates himself on travelling at a period when he can procure + information, and discuss his political opinions, unannoyed by fears of + state prisons, and spies of the police. His landlord, however, acquaints + him, that his appearance at the Town House cannot be dispensed with—he + attends three or four different hours of appointment, and is each time + sent away, (after waiting half an hour with the valets de ville in the + antichamber,) and told that the municipal officers are engaged. As an + Englishman, he has little relish for these subordinate sovereigns, and + difficult audiences—he hints at the next coffee-house that he had + imagined a stranger might have rested two days in a free country, without + being measured, and questioned, and without detailing his history, as + though he were suspected of desertion; and ventures on some implied + comparison between the ancient "Monsieur le Commandant," and the modern + "Citoyen Maire."—To his utter astonishment he finds, that though there + are no longer emissaries of the police, there are Jacobin informers; his + discourse is reported to the municipality, his business in the town + becomes the subject of conjecture, he is concluded to be <i>"un homme sans + aveu,"</i> [One that can't give a good account of himself.] and arrested as + "suspect;" and it is not without the interference of the people to whom + he may have been recommended at Paris, that he is released, and enabled + to continue his journey. +</p> +<p> + At Paris he lives in perpetual alarm. One night he is disturbed by a + visite domiciliaire, another by a riot—one day the people are in + insurrection for bread, and the next murdering each other at a public + festival; and our country-man, even after making every allowance for the + confusion of a recent change, thinks himself very fortunate if he reaches + England in safety, and will, for the rest of his life, be satisfied with + such a degree of liberty as is secured to him by the constitution of his + own country. +</p> +<p> + You see I have no design of tempting you to pay us a visit; and, to speak + the truth, I think those who are in England will show their wisdom by + remaining there. Nothing but the state of Mrs. D____'s health, and her + dread of the sea at this time of the year, detains us; for every day + subtracts from my courage, and adds to my apprehensions. +</p> +<p> + —Yours, &c. +</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Residence in France During the Years +1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, Part I. 1792, by An English Lady + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, 1792 *** + +***** This file should be named 11992-h.htm or 11992-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/9/11992/ + +Produced by Mary Munarin and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Residence in France During the Years 1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, + Part I. 1792 + Described in a Series of Letters from an English Lady: With General + and Incidental Remarks on the French Character and Manners + + +Author: An English Lady + +Release Date: April 11, 2004 [EBook #11992] +[Last updated on February 14, 2007] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, 1792 *** + + + + +Produced by Mary Munarin and David Widger + + + + +A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, +DURING THE YEARS +1792, 1793, 1794, AND 1795; + +DESCRIBED IN A SERIES OF LETTERS +FROM AN ENGLISH LADY; +With General And Incidental Remarks +On The French Character And Manners. + +Prepared for the Press +By John Gifford, Esq. +Author of the History of France, Letter to Lord +Lauderdale, Letter to the Hon. T. Erskine, &c. + + + +Second Edition. + +_Plus je vis l'Etranger plus j'aimai ma Patrie._ +--Du Belloy. + + +London: Printed for T. N. Longman, Paternoster Row. 1797. + + + +1792 + + + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS BY THE EDITOR. + +The following Letters were submitted to my inspection and judgement by +the Author, of whose principles and abilities I had reason to entertain a +very high opinion. How far my judgement has been exercised to advantage +in enforcing the propriety of introducing them to the public, that public +must decide. To me, I confess, it appeared, that a series of important +facts, tending to throw a strong light on the internal state of France, +during the most important period of the Revolution, could neither prove +uninteresting to the general reader, nor indifferent to the future +historian of that momentous epoch; and I conceived, that the opposite and +judicious reflections of a well-formed and well-cultivated mind, +naturally arising out of events within the immediate scope of its own +observation, could not in the smallest degree diminish the interest +which, in my apprehension, they are calculated to excite. My advice upon +this occasion was farther influenced by another consideration. Having +traced, with minute attention, the progress of the revolution, and the +conduct of its advocates, I had remarked the extreme affiduity employed +(as well by translations of the most violent productions of the Gallic +press, as by original compositions,) to introduce and propagate, in +foreign countries, those pernicious principles which have already sapped +the foundation of social order, destroyed the happiness of millions, and +spread desolation and ruin over the finest country in Europe. I had +particularly observed the incredible efforts exerted in England, and, I +am sorry to say, with too much success, for the base purpose of giving a +false colour to every action of the persons exercising the powers of +government in France; and I had marked, with indignation, the atrocious +attempt to strip vice of its deformity, to dress crime in the garb of +virtue, to decorate slavery with the symbols of freedom, and give to +folly the attributes of wisdom. I had seen, with extreme concern, men, +whom the lenity, mistaken lenity, I must call it, of our government had +rescued from punishment, if not from ruin, busily engaged in this +scandalous traffic, and, availing themselves of their extensive +connections to diffuse, by an infinite variety of channels, the poison of +democracy over their native land. In short, I had seen the British +press, the grand palladium of British liberty, devoted to the cause of +Gallic licentiousness, that mortal enemy of all freedom, and even the +pure stream of British criticism diverted from its natural course, and +polluted by the pestilential vapours of Gallic republicanism. I +therefore deemed it essential, by an exhibition of well-authenticated +facts, to correct, as far as might be, the evil effects of +misrepresentation and error, and to defend the empire of truth, which had +been assailed by a host of foes. + +My opinion of the principles on which the present system of government in +France was founded, and the war to which those principles gave rise, have +been long since submitted to the public. Subsequent events, far from +invalidating, have strongly confirmed it. In all the public declarations +of the Directory, in their domestic polity, in their conduct to foreign +powers, I plainly trace the prevalence of the same principles, the same +contempt for the rights and happiness of the people, the same spirit of +aggression and aggrandizement, the same eagerness to overturn the +existing institutions of neighbouring states, and the same desire to +promote "the universal revolution of Europe," which marked the conduct of +BRISSOT, LE BRUN, DESMOULINS, ROBESPIERRE, and their disciples. Indeed, +what stronger instance need be adduced of the continued prevalence of +these principles, than the promotion to the supreme rank in the state, of +two men who took an active part in the most atrocious proceedings of the +Convention at the close of 1792, and at the commencement of the following +year? + +In all the various constitutions which have been successively adopted +in that devoted country, the welfare of the people has been wholly +disregarded, and while they have been amused with the shadow of liberty, +they have been cruelly despoiled of the substance. Even on the +establishment of the present constitution, the one which bore the nearest +resemblance to a rational system, the freedom of election, which had been +frequently proclaimed as the very corner-stone of liberty, was shamefully +violated by the legislative body, who, in their eagerness to perpetuate +their own power, did not scruple to destroy the principle on which it was +founded. Nor is this the only violation of their own principles. A +French writer has aptly observed, that "En revolution comme en morale, ce +n'est que le premier pas qui coute:" thus the executive, in imitation of +the legislative body, seem disposed to render their power perpetual. For +though it be expressly declared by the 137th article of the 6th title of +their present constitutional code, that the "Directory shall be partially +renewed by the election of a new member every year," no step towards such +election has been taken, although the time prescribed by the law is +elapsed.--In a private letter from Paris now before me, written within +these few days, is the following observation on this very circumstance: +"The constitution has received another blow. The month of Vendemiaire is +past, and our Directors still remain the same. Hence we begin to drop +the appalation of Directory, and substitute that of the Cinqvir, who are +more to be dreaded for their power, and more to be detested for their +crimes, than the Decemvir of ancient Rome." The same letter also +contains a brief abstract of the state of the metropolis of the French +republic, which is wonderfully characteristic of the attention of the +government to the welfare and happiness of its inhabitants! + +"The reign of misery and of crime seems to be perpetuated in this +distracted capital: suicides, pillage, and assassinations, are daily +committed, and are still suffered to pass unnoticed. But what renders +our situation still more deplorable, is the existence of an innumerable +band of spies, who infest all public places, and all private societies. +More than a hundred thousand of these men are registered on the books of +the modern SARTINE; and as the population of Paris, at most, does not +exceed six hundred thousand souls, we are sure to find in six individuals +one spy. This consideration makes me shudder, and, accordingly, all +confidence, and all the sweets of social intercourse, are banished from +among us. People salute each other, look at each other, betray mutual +suspicions, observe a profound silence, and part. This, in few words, is +an exact description of our modern republican parties. It is said, that +poverty has compelled many respectable persons, and even state-creditors, +to enlist under the standard of COCHON, (the Police Minister,) because +such is the honourable conduct of our sovereigns, that they pay their +spies in specie--and their soldiers, and the creditors of the state, in +paper.--Such is the morality, such the justice, such are the republican +virtues, so loudly vaunted by our good and dearest friends, our +pensioners--the Gazetteers of England and Germany!" + +There is not a single abuse, which the modern reformers reprobated so +loudly under the ancient system, that is not magnified, in an infinite +degree, under the present establishment. For one Lettre de Cachet issued +during the mild reign of LOUIS the Sixteenth, a thousand Mandats d'Arret +have been granted by the tyrannical demagogues of the revolution; for one +Bastile which existed under the Monarchy, a thousand Maisons de Detention +have been established by the Republic. In short, crimes of every +denomination, and acts of tyranny and injustice, of every kind, have +multiplied, since the abolition of royalty, in a proportion which sets +all the powers of calculation at defiance. + +It is scarcely possible to notice the present situation of France, +without adverting to the circumstances of the WAR, and to the attempt now +making, through the medium of negotiation, to bring it to a speedy +conclusion. Since the publication of my Letter to a Noble Earl, now +destined to chew the cud of disappointment in the vale of obscurity, I +have been astonished to hear the same assertions advance, by the members +and advocates of that party whose merit is said to consist in the +violence of their opposition to the measures of government, on the origin +of the war, which had experienced the most ample confutation, without the +assistance of any additional reason, and without the smallest attempt to +expose the invalidity of those proofs which, in my conception, amounted +nearly to mathematical demonstration, and which I had dared them, in +terms the most pointed, to invalidate. The question of aggression before +stood on such high ground, that I had not the presumption to suppose it +could derive an accession of strength from any arguments which I could +supply; but I was confident, that the authentic documents which I offered +to the public would remove every intervening object that tended to +obstruct the fight of inattentive observers, and reflect on it such an +additional light as would flash instant conviction on the minds of all. +It seems, I have been deceived; but I must be permitted to suggest, that +men who persist in the renewal of assertions, without a single effort to +controvert the proofs which have been adduced to demonstrate their +fallacy, cannot have for their object the establishment of truth--which +ought, exclusively, to influence the conduct of public characters, +whether writers or orators. + +With regard to the negotiation, I can derive not the smallest hopes of +success from a contemplation of the past conduct, or of the present +principles, of the government of France. When I compare the projects of +aggrandizement openly avowed by the French rulers, previous to the +declaration of war against this country, with the exorbitant pretensions +advanced in the arrogant reply of the Executive Directory to the note +presented by the British Envoy at Basil in the month of February, 1796, +and with the more recent observations contained in their official note of +the 19th of September last, I cannot think it probable that they will +accede to any terms of peace that are compatible with the interest and +safety of the Allies. Their object is not so much the establishment as +the extension of their republic. + +As to the danger to be incurred by a treaty of peace with the republic of +France, though it has been considerably diminished by the events of the +war, it is still unquestionably great. This danger principally arises +from a pertinacious adherence, on the part of the Directory, to those +very principles which were adopted by the original promoters of the +abolition of Monarchy in France. No greater proof of such adherence need +be required than their refusal to repeal those obnoxious decrees (passed +in the months of November and December, 1792,) which created so general +and so just an alarm throughout Europe, and which excited the reprobation +even of that party in England, which was willing to admit the equivocal +interpretation given to them by the Executive Council of the day. I +proved, in the Letter to a Noble Earl before alluded to, from the very +testimony of the members of that Council themselves, as exhibited in +their official instructions to one of their confidential agents, that the +interpretation which they had assigned to those decrees, in their +communications with the British Ministry, was a base interpretation, and +that they really intended to enforce the decrees, to the utmost extent of +their possible operation, and, by a literal construction thereof, to +encourage rebellion in every state, within the reach of their arms or +their principles. Nor have the present government merely forborne to +repeal those destructive laws--they have imitated the conduct of their +predecessors, have actually put them in execution wherever they had the +ability to do so, and have, in all respects, as far as related to those +decrees, adopted the precise spirit and principles of the faction which +declared war against England. Let any man read the instructions of the +Executive Council to PUBLICOLA CHAUSSARD, their Commissary in the +Netherlands, in 1792 and 1793, and an account of the proceedings in the +Low Countries consequent thereon, and then examine the conduct of the +republican General, BOUNAPARTE, in Italy--who must necessarily act from +the instructions of the Executive Directory----and he will be compelled +to acknowledge the justice of my remark, and to admit that the latter +actuated by the same pernicious desire to overturn the settled order of +society, which invariably marked the conduct of the former. + +"It is an acknowledged fact, that every revolution requires a provisional +power to regulate its disorganizing movements, and to direct the +methodical demolition of every part of the ancient social constitution.-- +Such ought to be the revolutionary power. + +"To whom can such power belong, but to the French, in those countries +into which they may carry their arms? Can they with safety suffer it to +be exercised by any other persons? It becomes the French republic, then, +to assume this kind of guardianship over the people whom she awakens to +Liberty!*" + + * _Considerations Generales fur l'Esprit et les Principes du Decret + du 15 Decembre_. + +Such were the Lacedaemonian principles avowed by the French government in +1792, and such is the Lacedaimonian policy* pursued by the French +government in 1796! It cannot then, I conceive, be contended, that a +treaty with a government still professing principles which have been +repeatedly proved to be subversive of all social order, which have been +acknowledged by their parents to have for their object the methodical +demolition of existing constitutions, can be concluded without danger or +risk. That danger, I admit, is greatly diminished, because the power +which was destined to carry into execution those gigantic projects which +constituted its object, has, by the operations of the war, been +considerably curtailed. They well may exist in equal force, but the +ability is no longer the same. + +MACHIAVEL justly observes, that it was the narrow policy of the +Lacedaemonians always to destroy the ancient constitution, and establish +their own form of government, in the counties and cities which they +subdued. + +But though I maintain the existence of danger in a Treaty with the +Republic of France, unless she previously repeal the decrees to which I +have adverted, and abrogate the acts to which they have given birth, I by +no means contend that it exists in such a degree as to justify a +determination, on the part of the British government, to make its removal +the sine qua non of negotiation, or peace. Greatly as I admire the +brilliant endowments of Mr. BURKE, and highly as I respect and esteem him +for the manly and decisive part which he has taken, in opposition to the +destructive anarchy of republican France, and in defence of the +constitutional freedom of Britain; I cannot either agree with him on this +point, or concur with him in the idea that the restoration of the +Monarchy of France was ever the object of the war. That the British +Ministers ardently desired that event, and were earnest in their +endeavours to promote it, is certain; not because it was the object of +the war, but because they considered it as the best means of promoting +the object of the war, which was, and is, the establishment of the safety +and tranquillity of Europe, on a solid and permanent basis. If that +object can be attained, and the republic exist, there is nothing in the +past conduct and professions of the British Ministers, that can interpose +an obstacle to the conclusion of peace. Indeed, in my apprehension, it +would be highly impolitic in any Minister, at the commencement of a war, +to advance any specific object, that attainment of which should be +declared to be the sine qua non of peace. If mortals could arrogate to +themselves the attributes of the Deity, if they could direct the course +of events, and controul the chances of war, such conduct would be +justifiable; but on no other principle, I think, can its defence be +undertaken. It is, I grant, much to be lamented, that the protection +offered to the friends of monarchy in France, by the declaration of the +29th of October, 1793, could not be rendered effectual: as far as the +offer went it was certainly obligatory on the party who made it; but it +was merely conditional--restricted, as all similar offers necessarily +must be, by the ability to fulfil the obligation incurred. + +In paying this tribute to truth, it is not my intention to retract, in +the smallest degree, the opinion I have ever professed, that the +restoration of the ancient monarchy of France would be the best possible +means not only of securing the different states of Europe from the +dangers of republican anarchy, but of promoting the real interests, +welfare, and happiness of the French people themselves. The reasons on +which this opinion is founded I have long since explained; and the +intelligence which I have since received from France, at different times, +has convinced me that a very great proportion of her inhabitants concur +in the sentiment. + +The miseries resulting from the establishment of a republican system of +government have been severely felt, and deeply deplored; and I am fully +persuaded, that the subjects and tributaries of France will cordially +subscribe to the following observation on republican freedom, advanced by +a writer who had deeply studied the genius of republics: _"Di tutte le +fervitu dure, quella e durissima, che ti sottomette ad una republica; +l'una, perche e la piu durabile, e manco si puo sperarne d'ufare: L'altra +perche il fine della republica e enervare ed indebolire, debolire, per +accrescere il corpo suo, tutti gli altri corpi._*" + +JOHN GIFFORD. London, Nov. 12, 1796. + + * _Discorsi di Nicoli Machiavelli,_ Lib. ii. p. 88. + +P.S. Since I wrote the preceding remarks, I have been given to +understand, that by a decree, subsequent to the completion of the +constitutional code, the first partial renewal of the Executive Directory +was deferred till the month of March, 1979; and that, therefore, in this +instance, the present Directory cannot be accused of having violated the +constitution. But the guilt is only to be transferred from the Directory +to the Convention, who passed that decree, as well as some others, in +contradiction to a positive constitutional law.-----Indeed, the Directory +themselves betrayed no greater delicacy with regard to the observance of +the constitution, or M. BARRAS would never have taken his seat among +them; for the constitution expressly says, (and this positive provision +was not even modified by any subsequent mandate of the Convention,) that +no man shall be elected a member of the Directory who has not completed +his fortieth year--whereas it is notorious that Barras had not this +requisite qualification, having been born in the year 1758! + + - - - - - - - - - - - - + +I avail myself of the opportunity afforded me by the publication of a +Second Edition to notice some insinuations which have been thrown out, +tending to question the authenticity of the work. The motives which have +induced the author to withhold from these Letters the sanction of her +name, relate not to herself, but to some friends still remaining in +France, whose safety she justly conceives might be affected by the +disclosure. Acceding to the force and propriety of these motives, yet +aware of the suspicions to which a recital of important facts, by an +anonymous writer, would naturally be exposed, and sensible, also, that a +certain description of critics would gladly avail themselves of any +opportunity for discouraging the circulation of a work which contained +principles hostile to their own; I determined to prefix my name to the +publication. By so doing, I conceived that I stood pledged for its +authenticity; and the matter has certainly been put in a proper light by +an able and respectable critic, who has observed that "Mr. GIFFORD stands +between the writer and the public," and that "his name and character are +the guarantees for the authenticity of the Letters." + +This is precisely the situation in which I meant to place myself-- +precisely the pledge which I meant to give. The Letters are exactly what +they profess to be; the production of a Lady's pen, and written in the +very situations which they describe.--The public can have no grounds for +suspecting my veracity on a point in which I can have no possible +interest in deceiving them; and those who know me will do me the justice +to acknowledge, that I have a mind superior to the arts of deception, and +that I am incapable of sanctioning an imposition, for any purpose, or +from any motives whatever. Thus much I deemed it necessary to say, as +well from a regard for my own character, and from a due attention to the +public, as from a wish to prevent the circulation of the work from being +subjected to the impediments arising from the prevalence of a groundless +suspicion. + +I naturally expected, that some of the preceding remarks would excite the +resentment and draw down the vengeance of those persons to whom they +evidently applied. The contents of every publication are certainly a +fair subject for criticism; and to the fair comments of real critics, +however repugnant to the sentiments I entertain, or the doctrine I seek +to inculcate, I shall ever submit without murmur or reproach. But, when +men, assuming that respectable office, openly violate all the duties +attached to it, and, sinking the critic in the partizan, make a wanton +attack on my veracity, it becomes proper to repel the injurious +imputation; and the same spirit which dictates submission to the candid +award of an impartial judge, prescribes indignation and scorn at the +cowardly attacks of a secret assassin. + +April 14, 1797. + + + + +RESIDENCE IN FRANCE + + + + +DEDICATION + +To The RIGHT HON. EDMUND BURKE. + +SIR, + +It is with extreme diffidence that I offer the following pages to Your +notice; yet as they describe circumstances which more than justify Your +own prophetic reflections, and are submitted to the public eye from no +other motive than a love of truth and my country, I may, perhaps, be +excused for presuming them to be not altogether unworthy of such a +distinction. + +While Your puny opponents, if opponents they may be called, are either +sunk into oblivion, or remembered only as associated with the degrading +cause they attempted to support, every true friend of mankind, +anticipating the judgement of posterity, views with esteem and veneration +the unvarying Moralist, the profound Politician, the indefatigable +Servant of the Public, and the warm Promoter of his country's happiness. + +To this universal testimony of the great and good, permit me, Sir, to +join my humble tribute; being, with the utmost respect, +SIR, + +Your obedient Servant, THE AUTHOR. Sept. 12, 1796. + + + + +PREFACE + +After having, more than once, in the following Letters, expressed +opinions decidedly unfavourable to female authorship, when not justified +by superior talents, I may, by now producing them to the public, subject +myself to the imputation either of vanity or inconsistency; and I +acknowledge that a great share of candour and indulgence must be +possessed by readers who attend to the apologies usually made on such +occasions: yet I may with the strictest truth alledge, that I should +never have ventured to offer any production of mine to the world, had I +not conceived it possible that information and reflections collected and +made on the spot, during a period when France exhibited a state, of which +there is no example in the annals of mankind, might gratify curiosity +without the aid of literary embellishment; and an adherence to truth, I +flattered myself, might, on a subject of this nature, be more acceptable +than brilliancy of thought, or elegance of language. The eruption of a +volcano may be more scientifically described and accounted for by the +philosopher; but the relation of the illiterate peasant who beheld it, +and suffered from its effects, may not be less interesting to the common +hearer. + +Above all, I was actuated by the desire of conveying to my countrymen a +just idea of that revolution which they have been incited to imitate, and +of that government by which it has been proposed to model our own. + +Since these pages were written, the Convention has nominally been +dissolved, and a new constitution and government have succeeded, but no +real change of principle or actors has taken place; and the system, of +which I have endeavoured to trace the progress, must still be considered +as existing, with no other variations than such as have been necessarily +produced by the difference of time and circumstances. The people grew +tired of massacres en masse, and executions en detail: even the national +fickleness operated in favour of humanity; and it was also discovered, +that however a spirit of royalism might be subdued to temporary inaction, +it was not to be eradicated, and that the sufferings of its martyrs only +tended to propagate and confirm it. Hence the scaffolds flow less +frequently with blood, and the barbarous prudence of CAMILLE DESMOULINS' +guillotine economique has been adopted. But exaction and oppression are +still practised in every shape, and justice is not less violated, nor is +property more secure, than when the former was administered by +revolutionary tribunals, and the latter was at the disposition of +revolutionary armies. + +The error of supposing that the various parties which have usurped the +government of France have differed essentially from each other is pretty +general; and it is common enough to hear the revolutionary tyranny +exclusively associated with the person of ROBESPIERRE, and the +thirty-first of May, 1793, considered as the epoch of its introduction. +Yet whoever examines attentively the situation and politics of France, +from the subversion of the Monarchy, will be convinced that all the +principles of this monstrous government were established during the +administration of the Brissotins, and that the factions which succeeded, +from Danton and Robespierre to Sieyes and Barras, have only developed +them, and reduced them to practice. The revolution of the thirty-first +of May, 1793, was not a contest for system but for power--that of July +the twenty-eighth, 1794, (9th Thermidor,) was merely a struggle which of +two parties should sacrifice the other--that of October the fifth, 1795, +(13th Vendemiaire,) a war of the government against the people. But in +all these convulsions, the primitive doctrines of tyranny and injustice +were watched like the sacred fire, and have never for a moment been +suffered to languish. + +It may appear incredible to those who have not personally witnessed this +phoenomenon, that a government detested and despised by an immense +majority of the nation, should have been able not only to resist the +efforts of so many powers combined against it, but even to proceed from +defence to conquest, and to mingle surprize and terror with those +sentiments of contempt and abhorrence which it originally excited. + +That wisdom or talents are not the sources of this success, may be +deduced from the situation of France itself. The armies of the republic +have, indeed, invaded the territories of its enemies, but the desolation +of their own country seems to increase with every triumph--the genius of +the French government appears powerful only in destruction, and inventive +only in oppression--and, while it is endowed with the faculty of +spreading universal ruin, it is incapable of promoting the happiness of +the smallest district under its protection. The unrestrained pillage of +the conquered countries has not saved France from multiplied +bankruptcies, nor her state-creditors from dying through want; and +the French, in the midst of their external prosperity, are often +distinguished from the people whom their armies have been subjugated, +only by a superior degree of wretchedness, and a more irregular +despotism. + +With a power excessive and unlimited, and surpassing what has hitherto +been possessed by any Sovereign, it would be difficult to prove that +these democratic despots have effected any thing either useful or +beneficent. Whatever has the appearance of being so will be found, on +examination, to have for its object some purpose of individual interest +or personal vanity. They manage the armies, they embellish Paris, they +purchase the friendship of some states and the neutrality of others; but +if there be any real patriots in France, how little do they appreciate +these useless triumphs, these pilfered museums, and these fallacious +negotiations, when they behold the population of their country +diminished, its commerce annihilated, its wealth dissipated, its morals +corrupted, and its liberty destroyed-- + + "Thus, on deceitful Aetna's Flow'ry side + Unfading verdure glads the roving eye, + While secret flames with unextinguish'd rage + Insatiate on her wafted entrails prey, + And melt her treach'rous beauties into ruin." + +Those efforts which the partizans of republicanism admire, and which even +well-disposed persons regard as prodigies, are the simple and natural +result of an unprincipled despotism, acting upon, and disposing of, all +the resources of a rich, populous, and enslaved nation. _"Il devient aise +d'etre habile lorsqu'on s'est delivre des scrupules et des loix, de tout +honneur et de toute justice, des droits de ses semblables, et des devoirs +de l'autorite--a ce degre d'independence la plupart des obstacles qui +modifient l'activite humaine disparaissent; l'on parait avoir du talent +lorsqu'on n'a que de l'impudence, et l'abus de la force passe pour +energie._*" + + * "Exertions of ability become easy, when men have released + themselves from the scruples of conscience, the restraints of law, + the ties of honour, the bonds of justice, the claims of their fellow + creatures, and obedience to their superiors:--at this point of + independence, most of the obstacles which modify human activity + disappear; impudence is mistaken for talents; and the abuse of power + passes for energy." + +The operations of all other governments must, in a great measure, be +restrained by the will of the people, and by established laws; with them, +physical and political force are necessarily separate considerations: +they have not only to calculate what can be borne, but what will be +submitted to; and perhaps France is the first country that has been +compelled to an exertion of its whole strength, without regard to any +obstacle, natural, moral, or divine. It is for want of sufficiently +investigating and allowing for this moral and political latitudinarianism +of our enemies, that we are apt to be too precipitate in censuring the +conduct of the war; and, in our estimation of what has been done, we pay +too little regard to the principles by which we have been directed. An +honest man could scarcely imagine the means we have had to oppose, and an +Englishman still less conceive that they would have been submitted to: +for the same reason that the Romans had no law against parricide, till +experience had evinced the possibility of the crime. + +In a war like the present, advantage is not altogether to be appreciated +by military superiority. If, as there is just ground for believing, our +external hostilities have averted an internal revolution, what we have +escaped is of infinitely more importance to us than what we could +acquire. Commerce and conquest, compared to this, are secondary objects; +and the preservation of our liberties and our constitution +is a more solid blessing than the commerce of both the Indies, or the +conquest of nations. + +Should the following pages contribute to impress this salutary truth on +my countrymen, my utmost ambition will be gratified; persuaded, that a +sense of the miseries they have avoided, and of the happiness they enjoy, +will be their best incentive, whether they may have to oppose the arms of +the enemy in a continuance of the war, or their more dangerous +machinations on the restoration of peace. + +I cannot conclude without noticing my obligations to the Gentleman whose +name is prefixed to these volumes; and I think it at the same time +incumbent on me to avow, that, in having assisted the author, he must not +be considered as sanctioning the literary imperfections of the work. +When the subject was first mentioned to him, he did me the justice of +supposing, that I was not likely to have written any thing, the general +tendency of which he might disapprove; and when, on perusing the +manuscript, he found it contain sentiments dissimilar to his own, he was +too liberal to require a sacrifice of them as the condition of his +services.--I confess that previous to my arrival in France in 1792, I +entertained opinions somewhat more favourable to the principle of the +revolution than those which I was led to adopt at a subsequent period. +Accustomed to regard with great justice the British constitution as the +standard of known political excellence, I hardly conceived it possible +that freedom or happiness could exist under any other: and I am not +singular in having suffered this prepossession to invalidate even the +evidence of my senses. I was, therefore, naturally partial to whatever +professed to approach the object of my veneration. I forgot that +governments are not to be founded on imitations or theories, and that +they are perfect only as adapted to the genius, manners, and disposition +of the people who are subject to them. Experience and maturer judgement +have corrected my error, and I am perfectly convinced, that the old +monarchical constitution of France, with very slight meliorations, was +every way better calculated for the national character than a more +popular form of government. + +A critic, though not very severe, will discover many faults of style, +even where the matter may not be exceptionable. Besides my other +deficiencies, the habit of writing is not easily supplied, and, as I +despaired of attaining excellence, and was not solicitous about degrees +of mediocrity, I determined on conveying to the public such information +as I was possessed of, without alteration or ornament. Most of these +Letters were written exactly in the situation they describe, and remain +in their original state; the rest were arranged according as +opportunities were favourable, from notes and diaries kept when "the +times were hot and feverish," and when it would have been dangerous to +attempt more method. I forbear to describe how they were concealed +either in France or at my departure, because I might give rise to the +persecution and oppression of others. But, that I may not attribute to +myself courage which I do not possess, nor create doubts of my veracity, +I must observe, that I seldom ventured to write till I was assured of +some certain means of conveying my papers to a person who could safely +dispose of them. + +As a considerable period has elapsed since my return, it may not be +improper to add, that I took some steps for the publication of these +Letters so early as July, 1795. Certain difficulties, however, arising, +of which I was not aware, I relinquished my design, and should not have +been tempted to resume it, but for the kindness of the Gentleman whose +name appears as the Editor. + +Sept. 12, 1796. + + + + +A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE. + + + + +May 10, 1792. + +I am every day more confirmed in the opinion I communicated to you on my +arrival, that the first ardour of the revolution is abated.--The bridal +days are indeed past, and I think I perceive something like indifference +approaching. Perhaps the French themselves are not sensible of this +change; but I who have been absent two years, and have made as it were a +sudden transition from enthusiasm to coldness, without passing through +the intermediate gradations, am forcibly struck with it. When I was here +in 1790, parties could be scarcely said to exist--the popular triumph was +too complete and too recent for intolerance and persecution, and the +Noblesse and Clergy either submitted in silence, or appeared to rejoice +in their own defeat. In fact, it was the confusion of a decisive +conquest--the victors and the vanquished were mingled together; and the +one had not leisure to exercise cruelty, nor the other to meditate +revenge. Politics had not yet divided society; nor the weakness and +pride of the great, with the malice and insolence of the little, thinned +the public places. The politics of the women went no farther than a few +couplets in praise of liberty, and the patriotism of the men was confined +to an habit de garde nationale, the device of a button, or a nocturnal +revel, which they called mounting guard.--Money was yet plenty, at least +silver, (for the gold had already begun to disappear,) commerce in its +usual train, and, in short, to one who observes no deeper than myself, +every thing seemed gay and flourishing--the people were persuaded they +were happier; and, amidst such an appearance of content, one must have +been a cold politician to have examined too strictly into the future. +But all this, my good brother, is in a great measure subsided; and the +disparity is so evident, that I almost imagine myself one of the seven +sleepers--and, like them too, the coin I offer is become rare, and +regarded more as medals than money. The playful distinctions of +Aristocrate and Democrate are degenerated into the opprobium and +bitterness of Party--political dissensions pervade and chill the common +intercourse of life--the people are become gross and arbitrary, and the +higher classes (from a pride which those who consider the frailty of +human nature will allow for) desert the public amusements, where they +cannot appear but at the risk of being the marked objects of insult.--The +politics of the women are no longer innoxious--their political principles +form the leading trait of their characters; and as you know we are often +apt to supply by zeal what we want in power, the ladies are far from +being the most tolerant partizans on either side.--The national uniform, +which contributed so much to the success of the revolution, and +stimulated the patriotism of the young men, is become general; and the +task of mounting guard, to which it subjects the wearer, is now a serious +and troublesome duty.--To finish my observations, and my contrast, no +Specie whatever is to be seen; and the people, if they still idolize +their new form of government, do it at present with great sobriety--the +Vive la nation! seems now rather the effect of habit than of feeling; and +one seldom hears any thing like the spontaneous and enthusiastic sounds I +formerly remarked. + +I have not yet been here long enough to discover the causes of this +change; perhaps they may lie too deep for such an observer as myself: but +if (as the causes of important effects sometimes do) they lie on the +surface, they will be less liable to escape me, than an observer of more +pretentions. Whatever my remarks are, I will not fail to communicate +them--the employment will at least be agreeable to me, though the result +should not be satisfactory to you; and as I shall never venture on any +reflection, without relating the occurrence that gave rise to it, your +own judgement will enable you to correct the errors of mine. + +I was present yesterday at a funeral service, performed in honour of +General Dillon. This kind of service is common in Catholic countries, +and consists in erecting a cenotaph, ornamented with numerous lights, +flowers, crosses, &c. The church is hung with black, and the mass is +performed the same as if the body were present. On account of General +Dillon's profession, the mass yesterday was a military one. It must +always, I imagine, sound strange to the ears of a Protestant, to hear +nothing but theatrical music on these occasions, and indeed I could never +reconcile myself to it; for if we allow any effect to music at all, the +train of thought which should inspire us with respect for the dead, and +reflections on mortality, is not likely to be produced by the strains in +which Dido bewails Eneas, or in which Armida assails the virtue of +Rinaldo.--I fear, that in general the air of an opera reminds the belle +of the Theatre where she heard it--and, by a natural transition, of the +beau who attended her, and the dress of herself and her neighbours. I +confess, this was nearly my own case yesterday, on hearing an air from +"Sargines;" and had not the funeral oration reminded me, I should have +forgotten the unfortunate event we were celebrating, and which, for some +days before, when undistracted by this pious ceremony, I had dwelt on +with pity and horror.*-- + + * At the first skirmish between the French and Austrians near Lisle, + a general panic seized the former, and they retreated in disorder to + Lisle, crying _"Sauve qui peut, & nous fomnes (sic) trahis."_--"Let + every one shift for himself--we are betrayed." The General, after + in vain endeavouring to rally them, was massacred at his return on + the great square.--My pen faulters, and refuses to describe the + barbarities committed on the lifeless hero. Let it suffice, perhaps + more than suffice, to say, that his mutilated remains were thrown on + a fire, which these savages danced round, with yells expressive of + their execrable festivity. A young Englishman, who was so + unfortunate as to be near the spot, was compelled to join in this + outrage to humanity.--The same day a gentleman, the intimate friend + of our acquaintance, Mad. _____, was walking (unconscious what had + happened) without the gate which leads to Douay, and was met by the + flying ruffians on their return; immediately on seeing him they + shouted, _"Voila encore un Aristocrate!"_ and massacred him on the + spot. + +--Independent of any regret for the fate of Dillon, who is said to have +been a brave and good officer, I am sorry that the first event of this +war should be marked by cruelty and licentiousness.--Military discipline +has been much relaxed since the revolution, and from the length of time +since the French have been engaged in a land war, many of the troops must +be without that kind of courage which is the effect of habit. The +danger, therefore, of suffering them to alledge that they are betrayed, +whenever they do not choose to fight, and to excuse their own cowardice +by ascribing treachery to their leaders, is incalculable.--Above all, +every infraction of the laws in a country just supposing itself become +free, cannot be too severely repressed. The National Assembly have done +all that humanity could suggest--they have ordered the punishment of the +assassins, and have pensioned and adopted the General's children. The +orator expatiated both on the horror of the act and its consequences, as +I should have thought, with some ingenuity, had I not been assured by a +brother orator that the whole was "execrable." But I frequently remark, +that though a Frenchman may suppose the merit of his countrymen to be +collectively superior to that of the whole world, he seldom allows any +individual of them to have so large a portion as himself.--Adieu: I have +already written enough to convince you I have neither acquired the +Gallomania, nor forgotten my friends in England; and I conclude with a +wish _a propos_ to my subject--that they may long enjoy the rational +liberty they possess and so well deserve.--Yours. + + + + +May, 1792. + +You, my dear _____, who live in a land of pounds, shillings, and pence, +can scarcely form an idea of our embarrassments through the want of them. +'Tis true, these are petty evils; but when you consider that they happen +every day, and every hour, and that, if they are not very serious, they +are very frequent, you will rejoice in the splendour of your national +credit, which procures you all the accommodation of paper currency, +without diminishing the circulation of specie. Our only currency here +consists of assignats of 5 livres, 50, 100, 200, and upwards: therefore +in making purchases, you must accommodate your wants to the value of your +assignat, or you must owe the shopkeeper, or the shopkeeper must owe you; +and, in short, as an old woman assured me to-day, "C'est de quoi faire +perdre la tete," and, if it lasted long, it would be the death of her. +Within these few days, however, the municipalities have attempted to +remedy the inconvenience, by creating small paper of five, ten, fifteen, +and twenty sols, which they give in exchange for assignats of five +livres; but the number they are allowed to issue is limited, and the +demand for them so great, that the accommodation is inadequate to the +difficulty of procuring it. On the days on which this paper (which is +called billets de confiance) is issued, the Hotel de Ville is besieged by +a host of women collected from all parts of the district--Peasants, small +shopkeepers, fervant maids, and though last, not least formidable-- +fishwomen. They usually take their stand two or three hours before the +time of delivery, and the interval is employed in discussing the news, +and execrating paper money. But when once the door is opened, a scene +takes place which bids defiance to language, and calls for the pencil of +a Hogarth. Babel was, I dare say, comparatively to this, a place of +retreat and silence. Clamours, revilings, contentions, tearing of hair, +and breaking of heads, generally conclude the business; and, after the +loss of half a day's time, some part of their clothes, and the expence of +a few bruises, the combatants retire with small bills to the value of +five, or perhaps ten livres, as the whole resource to carry on their +little commerce for the ensuing week. I doubt not but the paper may have +had some share in alienating the minds of the people from the revolution. +Whenever I want to purchase any thing, the vender usually answers my +question by another, and with a rueful kind of tone inquires, "En papier, +madame?"--and the bargain concludes with a melancholy reflection on the +hardness of the times. + +The decrees relative to the priests have likewise occasioned much +dissension; and it seems to me impolitic thus to have made religion the +standard of party. The high mass, which is celebrated by a priest who +has taken the oaths, is frequented by a numerous, but, it must be +confessed, an ill-drest and ill-scented congregation; while the low mass, +which is later, and which is allowed the nonjuring clergy, has a gayer +audience, but is much less crouded.--By the way, I believe many who +formerly did not much disturb themselves about religious tenets, have +become rigid Papists since an adherence to the holy see has become a +criterion of political opinion. But if these separatists are bigoted and +obstinate, the conventionalists on their side are ignorant and +intolerant. + +I enquired my way to-day to the Rue de l'Hopital. The woman I spoke to +asked me, in a menacing tone, what I wanted there. I replied, which was +true, that I merely wanted to pass through the street as my nearest way +home; upon which she lowered her voice, and conducted me very civilly.--I +mentioned the circumstance on my return, and found that the nuns of the +hospital had their mass performed by a priest who had not taken the +oaths, and that those who were suspected of going to attend it were +insulted, and sometimes ill treated. A poor woman, some little time ago, +who conceived perhaps that her salvation might depend on exercising her +religion in the way she had been accustomed to, persisted in going, and +was used by the populace with such a mixture of barbarity and indecency, +that her life was despaired of. Yet this is the age and the country of +Philosophers.--Perhaps you will begin to think Swift's sages, who only +amused themselves with endeavouring to propagate sheep without wool, not +so contemptible. I am almost convinced myself, that when a man once +piques himself on being a philosopher, if he does no mischief you ought +to be satisfied with him. + +We passed last Sunday with Mr. de ____'s tenants in the country. Nothing +can equal the avidity of these people for news. We sat down after dinner +under some trees in the village, and Mr. de _____ began reading the +Gazette to the farmers who were about us. In a few minutes every thing +that could hear (for I leave understanding the pedantry of a French +newspaper out of the question) were his auditors. A party at quoits in +one field, and a dancing party in another, quitted their amusements, and +listened with undivided attention. I believe in general the farmers are +the people most contented with the revolution, and indeed they have +reason to be so; for at present they refuse to sell their corn unless for +money, while they pay their rent in assignats; and farms being for the +most part on leases, the objections of the landlord to this kind of +payment are of no avail. Great encouragement is likewise held out to +them to purchase national property, which I am informed they do to an +extent that may for some time be injurious to agriculture; for in their +eagerness to acquire land, the deprive themselves of cultivating it. +They do not, like our crusading ancestors, "sell the pasture to buy the +horse," but the horse to buy the pasture; so that we may expect to see in +many places large farms in the hands of those who are obliged to neglect +them. + +A great change has happened within the last year, with regard to landed +property--so much has been sold, that many farmers have had the +opportunity of becoming proprietors. The rage of emigration, which the +approach of war, pride, timidity, and vanity are daily increasing, has +occasioned many of the Noblesse to sell their estates, which, with those +of the Crown and the Clergy, form a large mass of property, thrown as it +were into general circulation. This may in future be beneficial to the +country, but the present generation will perhaps have to purchase (and +not cheaply) advantages they cannot enjoy. A philanthropist may not +think of this with regret; and yet I know not why one race is preferable +to another, or why an evil should be endured by those who exist now, in +order that those who succeed may be free from it.--I would willingly +plant a million of acorns, that another age might be supplied with oaks; +but I confess, I do not think it quite so pleasant for us to want bread, +in order that our descendants may have a superfluity. + +I am half ashamed of these selfish arguments; but really I have been led +to them through mere apprehension of what I fear the people may have yet +to endure, in consequence of the revolution. + +I have frequently observed how little taste the French have for the +country, and I believe all my companions, except Mr. de _____, who took +(as one always does) an interest in surveying his property, were heartily +ennuyes with our little excursion.--Mad. De _____, on her arrival, took +her post by the farmer's fire-side, and was out of humour the whole day, +inasmuch as our fare was homely, and there was nothing but rustics to see +or be seen by. That a plain dinner should be a serious affair, you may +not wonder; but the last cause of distress, perhaps you will not conclude +quite so natural at her years. All that can be said about it is, that +she is a French woman, who rouges, and wears lilac ribbons, at +seventy-four. I hope, in my zeal to obey you, my reflections will not +be too voluminous.--For the present I will be warned by my conscience, +and add only, that I am, Yours. + + + + +June 10, 1792. + +You observe, with some surprize, that I make no mention of the Jacobins-- +the fact is, that until now I have heard very little about them. Your +English partizans of the revolution have, by publishing their +correspondence with these societies, attributed a consequence to them +infinitely beyond what they have had pretensions to:--a prophet, it is +said, is not honoured in his own country--I am sure a Jacobin is not. +In provincial towns these clubs are generally composed of a few of the +lowest tradesmen, who have so disinterested a patriotism, as to bestow +more attention on the state than on their own shops; and as a man may be +an excellent patriot without the aristocratic talents of reading and +writing, they usually provide a secretary or president, who can supply +these deficiencies--a country attorney, a _Pere de l'oratoire,_ or a +disbanded capuchin, is in most places the candidate for this office. +The clubs often assemble only to read the newspapers; but where they +are sufficiently in force, they make motions for "fetes," censure the +municipalities, and endeavour to influence the elections of the members +who compose them.--That of Paris is supposed to consist of about six +thousand members; but I am told their number and influence are daily +increasing, and that the National Assembly is more subservient to them +than it is willing to acknowledge--yet, I believe, the people at large +are equally adverse to the Jacobins, who are said to entertain the +chimerical project of forming a republic, and to the Aristocrates, who +wish to restore the ancient government. The party in opposition to both +these, who are called the Feuillans,* have the real voice of the people +with them, and knowing this, they employ less art than their opponents, +have no point of union, and perhaps may finally be undermined by +intrigue, or even subdued by violence. + + *They derive this appellation, as the Jacobins do theirs, from the + convent at which they hold their meetings. + +You seem not to comprehend why I include vanity among the causes of +emigration, and yet I assure you it has had no small share in many of +them. The gentry of the provinces, by thus imitating the higher +noblesse, imagine they have formed a kind of a common cause, which may +hereafter tend to equalize the difference of ranks, and associate them +with those they have been accustomed to look up to as their superiors. +It is a kind of ton among the women, particularly to talk of their +emigrated relations, with an accent more expressive of pride than regret, +and which seems to lay claim to distinction rather than pity. + +I must now leave you to contemplate the boasted misfortunes of these +belles, that I may join the card party which forms their alleviation.-- +Adieu. + + + + +June 24, 1792. + +You have doubtless learned from the public papers the late outrage of the +Jacobins, in order to force the King to consent to the formation of an +army at Paris, and to sign the decree for banishing the nonjuring Clergy. +The newspapers will describe to you the procession of the Sans-Culottes, +the indecency of their banners, and the disorders which were the result-- +but it is impossible for either them or me to convey an idea of the +general indignation excited by these atrocities. Every well-meaning +person is grieved for the present, and apprehensive for the future: +and I am not without hope, that this open avowal of the designs of the +Jacobins, will unite the Constitutionalists and Aristocrates, and that +they will join their efforts in defence of the Crown, as the only means +of saving both from being overwhelmed by a faction, who are now become +too daring to be despised. Many of the municipalities and departments +are preparing to address they King, on the fortitude he displayed in this +hour of insult and peril.--I know not why, but the people have been +taught to entertain a mean opinion of his personal courage; and the late +violence will at least have the good effect of undeceiving them. It is +certain, that he behaved on this occasion with the utmost coolness; and +the Garde Nationale, whose hand he placed on his heart, attested that it +had no unusual palpitation. + +That the King should be unwilling to sanction the raising an army under +the immediate auspice of the avowed enemies of himself, and of the +constitution he has sworn to protect, cannot be much wondered at; and +those who know the Catholic religion, and consider that this Prince is +devout, and that he has reason to suspect the fidelity of all who +approach him, will wonder still less that he refuses to banish a class of +men, whose influence is extensive, and whose interest it is to preserve +their attachment to him. + +These events have thrown a gloom over private societies; and public +amusements, as I observed in a former letter, are little frequented; so +that, on the whole, time passes heavily with a people who, generally +speaking, have few resources in themselves. Before the revolution, +France was at this season a scene of much gaiety. Every village had +alternately a sort of Fete, which nearly answers to our Wake--but with +this difference, that it was numerously attended by all ranks, and the +amusement was dancing, instead of wrestling and drinking. Several small +fields, or different parts of a large one, were provided with music, +distinguished by flags, and appropriated to the several classes of +dancers--one for the peasants, another for the bourgeois, and a third for +the higher orders. The young people danced beneath the ardour of a July +sun, while the old looked on and regaled themselves with beer, cyder, and +gingerbread. I was always much pleased with this village festivity: it +gratified my mind more than select and expensive amusements, because it +was general, and within the power of all who chose to partake of it; and +the little distinction of rank which was preserved, far from diminishing +the pleasure of any, added, I am certain, to the freedom of all. By +mixing with those only of her own class, the Paysanne* was spared the +temptation of envying the pink ribbons of the Bourgeoise, who in her turn +was not disturbed by an immediate rivalship with the sash and plumes of +the provincial belle. But this custom is now much on the decline. The +young women avoid occasions where an inebriated soldier may offer himself +as her partner in the dance, and her refusal be attended with insult to +herself, and danger to those who protect her; and as this licence is +nearly as offensive to the decent Bourgeoise as to the female of higher +condition, this sort of fete will most probably be entirely abandoned. + + *The head-dress of the French _Paysanne_ is uniformly a small cap, + without ribbon or ornament of any kind, except in that part of + Normandy which is called the _Pays de Caux,_ where the Paysannes + wear a particular kind of head dress, ornamented with silver. + +The people here all dance much better than those of the same rank in +England; but this national accomplishment is not instinctive: for though +few of the laborious class have been taught to read, there are scarcely +any so poor as not to bestow three livres for a quarter's instruction +from a dancing master; and with this three months' noviciate they become +qualified to dance through the rest of their lives. + +The rage for emigration, and the approach of the Austrians, have +occasioned many restrictions on travelling, especially near the seacoast +of frontiers. No person can pass through a town without a passport from +the municipality he resides in, specifying his age, the place of his +birth, his destination, the height of his person, and the features of his +face. The Marquis de C____ entered the town yesterday, and at the gate +presented his passport as usual; the guard looked at the passport, and in +a high tone demanded his name, whence he came, and where he was going. +M. de C____ referred him to the passport, and suspecting the man could +not read, persisted in refusing to give a verbal account of himself, but +with much civility pressed the perusal of the passport; adding, that if +it was informal, Monsieur might write to the municipality that granted +it. The man, however, did not approve of the jest, and took the Marquis +before the municipality, who sentenced him to a month's imprisonment for +his pleasantry. + +The French are becoming very grave, and a bon-mot will not now, as +formerly, save a man's life.--I do not remember to have seen in any +English print an anecdote on this subject, which at once marks the levity +of the Parisians, and the wit and presence of mind of the Abbe Maury.--At +the beginning of the revolution, when the people were very much incensed +against the Abbe, he was one day, on quitting the Assembly, surrounded by +an enraged mob, who seized on him, and were hurrying him away to +execution, amidst the universal cry of _a la lanterne! a la lanterne!_ +The Abbe, with much coolness and good humour, turned to those nearest him, +_"Eh bien mes amis et quand je serois a la lanterne, en verriez vous plus +clair?"_ Those who held him were disarmed, the bon-mot flew through the +croud, and the Abbe escaped while they were applauding it.--I have +nothing to offer after this trait which is worthy of succeeding it, but +will add that I am always Yours. + + + + +July 24, 1792. + +Our revolution aera has passed tranquilly in the provinces, and with less +turbulence at Paris than was expected. I consign to the Gazette-writers +those long descriptions that describe nothing, and leave the mind as +unsatisfied as the eye. I content myself with observing only, that the +ceremony here was gay, impressive, and animating. I indeed have often +remarked, that the works of nature are better described than those of +art. The scenes of nature, though varied, are uniform; while the +productions of art are subject to the caprices of whim, and the +vicissitudes of taste. A rock, a wood, or a valley, however the scenery +may be diversified, always conveys a perfect and distinct image to the +mind; but a temple, an altar, a palace, or a pavilion, requires a detail, +minute even to tediousness, and which, after all, gives but an imperfect +notion of the object. I have as often read descriptions of the Vatican, +as of the Bay of Naples; yet I recollect little of the former, while the +latter seems almost familiar to me.--Many are strongly impressed with the +scenery of Milton's Paradise, who have but confused ideas of the +splendour of Pandemonium. The descriptions, however, are equally minute, +and the poetry of both is beautiful. + +But to return to this country, which is not absolutely a Paradise, and I +hope will not become a Pandemonium--the ceremony I have been alluding to, +though really interesting, is by no means to be considered as a proof +that the ardour for liberty increases: on the contrary, in proportion as +these fetes become more frequent, the enthusiasm which they excite seems +to diminish. "For ever mark, Lucilius, when Love begins to sicken and +decline, it useth an enforced ceremony." When there were no +foederations, the people were more united. The planting trees of liberty +seems to have damped the spirit of freedom; and since there has been a +decree for wearing the national colours, they are more the marks of +obedience than proofs of affection.--I cannot pretend to decide whether +the leaders of the people find their followers less warm than they were, +and think it necessary to stimulate them by these shows, or whether the +shows themselves, by too frequent repetition, have rendered the people +indifferent about the objects of them.--Perhaps both these suppositions +are true. The French are volatile and material; they are not very +capable of attachment to principles. External objects are requisite for +them, even in a slight degree; and the momentary enthusiasm that is +obtained by affecting their senses subsides with the conclusion of a +favourite air, or the end of a gaudy procession. + +The Jacobin party are daily gaining ground; and since they have forced a +ministry of their own on the King, their triumph has become still more +insolent and decisive.--A storm is said to be hovering over us, which I +think of with dread, and cannot communicate with safety--"Heaven square +the trial of those who are implicated, to their proportioned strength!"-- +Adieu. + + + + +August 4, 1792. + +I must repeat to you, that I have no talent for description; and, having +seldom been able to profit by the descriptions of others, I am modest +enough not willingly to attempt one myself. But, as you observe, the +ceremony of a foederation, though familiar to me, is not so to my English +friends; I therefore obey your commands, though certain of not succeeding +so as to gratify your curiosity in the manner you too partially expect. + +The temple where the ceremony was performed, was erected in an open +space, well chosen both for convenience and effect. In a large circle on +this spot, twelve posts, between fifty and sixty feet high, were placed +at equal distances, except one larger, opening in front by way of +entrance. On each alternate post were fastened ivy, laurel, &c. so as to +form a thick body which entirely hid the support. These greens were then +shorn (in the manner you see in old fashioned gardens) into the form of +Doric columns, of dimensions proportioned to their height. The +intervening posts were covered with white cloth, which was so +artificially folded, as exactly to resemble fluted pillars--from the +bases of which ascended spiral wreaths of flowers. The whole was +connected at top by a bold festoon of foliage, and the capital of each +column was surmounted by a vase of white lilies. In the middle of this +temple was placed an altar, hung round with lilies, and on it was deposed +the book of the constitution. The approach to the altar was by a large +flight of steps, covered with beautiful tapestry. + +All this having been arranged and decorated, (a work of several days,) +the important aera was ushered in by the firing of cannon, ringing of +bells, and an appearance of bustle and hilarity not to be seen on any +other occasion. About ten, the members of the district, the +municipality, and the judges in their habits of ceremony, met at the +great church, and from thence proceeded to the altar of liberty. The +troops of the line, the Garde Nationale of the town, and of all the +surrounding communes, then arrived, with each their respective music and +colours, which (reserving one only of the latter to distinguish them in +the ranks) they planted round the altar. This done, they retired, and +forming a circle round the temple, left a large intermediate space free. +A mass was then celebrated with the most perfect order and decency, and +at the conclusion were read the rights of man and the constitution. The +troops, Garde Nationale, &c. were then addressed by their respective +officers, the oath to be faithful to the nation, the law, and the King, +was administered: every sword was drawn, and every hat waved in the air; +while all the bands of music joined in the favorite strain of ca ira.-- +This was followed by crowning, with the civic wreaths hung round the +altar, a number of people, who during the year had been instrumental in +saving the lives of their fellow-citizens that had been endangered by +drowning or other accidents. This honorary reward was accompanied by a +pecuniary one, and a fraternal embrace from all the constituted bodies. +But this was not the gravest part of the ceremony. The magistrates, +however upright, were not all graceful, and the people, though they +understood the value of the money, did not that of the civic wreaths, or +the embraces; they therefore looked vacant enough during this part of the +business, and grinned most facetiously when they began to examine the +appearance of each other in their oaken crowns, and, I dare say, thought +the whole comical enough.--This is one trait of national pedantry. +Because the Romans awarded a civic wreath for an act of humanity, the +French have adopted the custom; and decorate thus a soldier or a sailor, +who never heard of the Romans in his life, except in extracts from the +New Testament at mass. + +But to return to our fete, of which I have only to add, that the +magistrates departed in the order they observed in coming, and the troops +and Garde Nationale filed off with their hats in the air, and with +universal acclamations, to the sound of ca ira.--Things of this kind are +not susceptible of description. The detail may be uninteresting, while +the general effect may have been impressive. The spirit of the scene I +have been endeavouring to recall seems to have evaporated under my pen; +yet to the spectator it was gay, elegant, and imposing. The day was +fine, a brilliant sun glittered on the banners, and a gentle breeze gave +them motion; while the satisfied countenances of the people added spirit +and animation to the whole. + +I must remark to you, that devots, and determined aristocrates, ever +attend on these occasions. The piety of the one is shocked at a mass by +a priest who has taken the oaths, and the pride of the other is not yet +reconciled to confusion of ranks and popular festivities. I asked a +woman who brings us fruit every day, why she had not come on the +fourteenth as usual. She told me she did not come to the town, _"a cause +de la foederation"--"Vous etes aristocrate donc?"--"Ah, mon Dieu non--ce +n'est pas que je suis aristocrate, ou democrate, mais que je suis +Chretienne._*" + + *"On account of the foederation."--"You are an aristocrate then, I + suppose?"--"Lord, no! It is not because I am an aristocrate, or a + democrate, but because I am a Christian." + +This is an instance, among many others I could produce, that our +legislators have been wrong, in connecting any change of the national +religion with the revolution. I am every day convinced, that this and +the assignats are the great causes of the alienation visible in many who +were once the warmest patriots.--Adieu: do not envy us our fetes and +ceremonies, while you enjoy a constitution which requires no oath to make +you cherish it: and a national liberty, which is felt and valued without +the aid of extrinsic decoration.--Yours. + + + + +August 15. + +The consternation and horror of which I have been partaker, will more +than apologize for my silence. It is impossible for any one, however +unconnected with the country, not to feel an interest in its present +calamities, and to regret them. I have little courage to write even now, +and you must pardon me if my letter should bear marks of the general +depression. All but the faction are grieved and indignant at the King's +deposition; but this grief is without energy, and this indignation +silent. The partizans of the old government, and the friends of the new, +are equally enraged; but they have no union, are suspicious of each +other, and are sinking under the stupor of despair, when they should be +preparing for revenge.--It would not be easy to describe our situation +during the last week. The ineffectual efforts of La Fayette, and the +violences occasioned by them, had prepared us for something still more +serious. On the ninth, we had a letter from one of the representatives +for this department, strongly expressive of his apprehensions for the +morrow, but promising to write if he survived it. The day, on which we +expected news, came, but no post, no papers, no diligence, nor any means +of information. The succeeding night we sat up, expecting letters by the +post: still, however, none arrived; and the courier only passed hastily +through, giving no detail, but that Paris was _a feu et a sang_.* + + * All fire and slaughter. + +At length, after passing two days and nights in this dreadful suspence, +we received certain intelligence which even exceeded our fears.--It is +needless to repeat the horrors that have been perpetrated. The accounts +must, ere now, have reached you. Our representative, as he seemed to +expect, was so ill treated as to be unable to write: he was one of those +who had voted the approval of La Fayette's conduct--all of whom were +either massacred, wounded, or intimidated; and, by this means, a majority +was procured to vote the deposition of the King. The party allow, by +their own accounts, eight thousand persons to have perished on this +occasion; but the number is supposed to be much more considerable. No +papers are published at present except those whose editors, being members +of the Assembly, and either agents or instigators of the massacres, are, +of course, interested in concealing or palliating them.---Mr. De _____ +has just now taken up one of these atrocious journals, and exclaims, with +tears starting from his eyes, _"On a abattu la statue d'Henri quatre!*"_ + + *"They have destroyed the statue of Henry the Fourth." + +The sacking of Rome by the Goths offers no picture equal to the +licentiousness and barbarity committed in a country which calls itself +the most enlightened in Europe.--But, instead of recording these horrors, +I will fill up my paper with the Choeur Bearnais. + + _Choeur Bearnais. + + "Un troubadour Bearnais, + "Le yeux inoudes de larmes, + "A ses montagnards + "Chantoit ce refrein source d'alarmes-- + "Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris! + "Il a tremble pour les jours + "De sa compagne cherie + "Qui n'a troube de secours + "Que dans sa propre energie; + "Elle suit le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris. + + "Quel crime ont ils donc commis + "Pour etre enchaines de meme? + "Du peuple ils sont les amis, + "Le peuple veut il qu'on l'aime, + "Quand il met le fils d'Henri + "Dans les prisons de Paris? + + "Le Dauphin, ce fils cheri, + "Qui seul fait notre esperance, + "De pleurs sera donc nourri; + "Les Berceaux qu'on donne en France + "Aux enfans de notre Henri + "Sont les prisons de Paris. + + "Il a vu couler le sang + "De ce garde fidele, + "Qui vient d'offrir en mourant + "Aux Francais un beau modele; + Mais Louis le fils d'Henri + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Il n'est si triste appareil + "Qui du respect nous degage, + "Les feux ardens du Soleil + "Savent percer le nuage: + "Le prisonnier de Paris + "Est toujours le fils d'Henri. + + "Francais, trop ingrats Francais + "Rendez le Roi a sa compagne; + "C'est le bien du Bearnais, + "C'est l'enfant de la Montagne: + "Le bonheur qu' avoit Henri + "Nous l'affarons a Louis. + + "Chez vouz l'homme a de ses droits + "Recouvre le noble usage, + "Et vous opprimez vos rois, + "Ah! quel injuste partage! + "Le peuple est libre, et Louis + "Est prisonnier dans Paris. + + "Au pied de ce monument + "Ou le bon Henri respire + "Pourquoi l'airain foudroyant? + "Ah l'on veut qu' Henri conspire + "Lui meme contre son fils + "Dans les prisons de Paris."_ + +It was published some time ago in a periodical work, (written with great +spirit and talents,) called "The Acts of the Apostles," and, I believe, +has not yet appeared in England. The situation of the King gives a +peculiar interest to these stanzas, which, merely as a poetical +composition, are very beautiful. I have often attempted to translate +them, but have always found it impossible to preserve the effect and +simplicity of the original. They are set to a little plaintive air, very +happily characteristic of the words. + +Perhaps I shall not write to you again from hence, as we depart for +A_____ on Tuesday next. A change of scene will dissipate a little the +seriousness we have contracted during the late events. If I were +determined to indulge grief or melancholy, I would never remove from the +spot where I had formed the resolution. Man is a proud animal even when +oppressed by misfortune. He seeks for his tranquility in reason and +reflection; whereas, a post-chaise and four, or even a hard-trotting +horse, is worth all the philosophy in the world.--But, if, as I observed +before, a man be determined to resist consolation, he cannot do better +than stay at home, and reason and phosophize. + +Adieu:--the situation of my friends in this country makes me think of +England with pleasure and respect; and I shall conclude with a very +homely couplet, which, after all the fashionable liberality of modern +travellers, contains a great deal of truth: + + "Amongst mankind + "We ne'er shall find + "The worth we left at home." + +Yours, &c. + + + + +August 22, 1792. + +The hour is past, in which, if the King's friends had exerted themselves, +they might have procured a movement in his favour. The people were at +first amazed, then grieved; but the national philosophy already begins to +operate, and they will sink into indifference, till again awakened by +some new calamity. The leaders of the faction do not, however, entirely +depend either on the supineness of their adversaries, or the submission +of the people. Money is distributed amongst the idle and indigent, and +agents are nightly employed in the public houses to comment on +newspapers, written for the purpose to blacken the King and exalt the +patriotism of the party who have dethroned him. Much use has likewise +been made of the advances of the Prussians towards Champagne, and the +usual mummery of ceremony has not been wanting. Robespierre, in a burst +of extemporary energy, previously studied, has declared the country in +danger. The declaration has been echoed by all the departments, and +proclaimed to the people with much solemnity. We were not behind hand in +the ceremonial of the business, though, somehow, the effect was not so +serious and imposing as one could have wished on such an occasion. A +smart flag, with the words "Citizens, the country is in danger," was +prepared; the judges and the municipality were in their costume, the +troops and Garde Nationale under arms, and an orator, surrounded by his +cortege, harangued in the principal parts of the town on the text of the +banner which waved before him. + +All this was very well; but, unfortunately, in order to distinguish the +orator amidst the croud, it was determined he should harangue on +horseback. Now here arose a difficulty which all the ardour of +patriotism was not able to surmount. The French are in general but +indifferent equestrians; and it so happened that, in our municipality, +those who could speak could not ride, and those who could ride could not +speak. At length, however, after much debating, it was determined that +arms should yield to the gown, or rather, the horse to the orator--with +this precaution, that the monture should be properly secured, by an +attendant to hold the bridle. Under this safeguard, the rhetorician +issued forth, and the first part of the speech was performed without +accident; but when, by way of relieving the declaimer, the whole military +band began to flourish ca ira, the horse, even more patriotic than his +rider, curvetted and twisted with so much animation, that however the +spectators might be delighted, the orator was far from participating in +their satisfaction. After all this, the speech was to be finished, and +the silence of the music did not immediately tranquillize the animal. +The orator's eye wandered from the paper that contained his speech, with +wistful glances toward the mane; the fervor of his indignation against +the Austrians was frequently calmed by the involuntary strikings he was +obliged to submit to; and at the very crisis of the emphatic declaration, +he seemed much less occupied by his country's danger than his own. The +people, who were highly amused, I dare say, conceived the whole ceremony +to be a rejoicing, and at every repetition that the country was in +danger, joined with great glee in the chorus of _ca ira_.* + + *The oration consisted of several parts, each ending with a kind of + burden of _"Citoyens, la patri est en danger;"_ and the arrangers of + the ceremony had not selected appropriate music: so that the band, + who had been accustomed to play nothing else on public occasions, + struck up _ca ira_ at every declaration that the country was in + danger! + +Many of the spectators, I believe, had for some time been convinced of +the danger that threatened the country, and did not suppose it much +increased by the events of the war; others were pleased with a show, +without troubling themselves about the occasion of it; and the mass, +except when rouzed to attention by their favourite air, or the +exhibitions of the equestrian orator, looked on with vacant stupidity. +--This tremendous flag is now suspended from a window of the Hotel de +Ville, where it is to remain until the inscription it wears shall no +longer be true; and I heartily wish, the distresses of the country may +not be more durable than the texture on which they are proclaimed. + +Our journey is fixed for to-morrow, and all the morning has been passed +in attendance for our passports.--This affair is not so quickly +dispatched as you may imagine. The French are, indeed, said to be a very +lively people, but we mistake their volubility for vivacity; for in their +public offices, their shops, and in any transaction of business, no +people on earth can be more tedious--they are slow, irregular, and +loquacious; and a retail English Quaker, with all his formalities, would +dispose of half his stock in less time than you can purchase a three sols +stamp from a brisk French Commis. You may therefore conceive, that this +official portraiture of so many females was a work of time, and not very +pleasant to the originals. The delicacy of an Englishman may be shocked +at the idea of examining and registering a lady's features one after +another, like the articles of a bill of lading; but the cold and +systematic gallantry of a Frenchman is not so scrupulous.--The officer, +however, who is employed for this purpose here, is civil, and I suspected +the infinity of my nose, and the acuteness of Mad. de ____'s chin, might +have disconcerted him; but he extricated himself very decently. My nose +is enrolled in the order of aquilines, and the old lady's chin pared off +to a _"menton un peu pointu."_--["A longish chin."] + +The carriages are ordered for seven to-morrow. Recollect, that seven +females, with all their appointments, are to occupy them, and then +calculate the hour I shall begin increasing my distance from England and +my friends. I shall not do it without regret; yet perhaps you will be +less inclined to pity me than the unfortunate wights who are to escort +us. A journey of an hundred miles, with French horses, French carriages, +French harness, and such an unreasonable female charge, is, I confess, in +great humility, not to be ventured on without a most determined +patience.--I shall write to you on our arrival at Arras; and am, till +then, at all times, and in all places, Yours. + + + + +Hesdin. + +We arrived here last night, notwithstanding the difficulties of our first +setting out, in tolerable time; but I have gained so little in point of +repose, that I might as well have continued my journey. We are lodged at +an inn which, though large and the best in the town, is so disgustingly +filthy, that I could not determine to undress myself, and am now up and +scribbling, till my companions shall be ready. Our embarkation will, I +foresee, be a work of time and labour; for my friend, Mad. de ____, +besides the usual attendants on a French woman, a femme de chambre and a +lap-dog, travels with several cages of canary-birds, some pots of curious +exotics, and a favourite cat; all of which must be disposed of so as to +produce no interstine commotions during the journey. Now if you consider +the nature of these fellow-travellers, you will allow it not so easy a +matter as may at first be supposed, especially as their fair mistress +will not allow any of them to be placed in any other carriage than her +own.--A fray happened yesterday between the cat and the dog, during which +the birds were overset, and the plants broken. Poor M. de ____, with a +sort of rueful good nature, separated the combatants, restored order, and +was obliged to purchase peace by charging himself with the care of the +aggressor. + +I should not have dwelt so long on these trifling occurrences, but that +they are characteristic. In England, this passion for animals is chiefly +confined to old maids, but here it is general. Almost every woman, +however numerous her family, has a nursery of birds, an angola, and two +or three lap-dogs, who share her cares with her husband and children. +The dogs have all romantic names, and are enquired after with so much +solicitude when they do not make one in a visit, that it was some time +before I discovered that Nina and Rosine were not the young ladies of the +family. I do not remember to have seen any husband, however master of +his house in other respects, daring enough to displace a favourite +animal, even though it occupied the only vacant fauteuil. + +The entrance into Artois from Picardy, though confounded by the new +division, is sufficiently marked by a higher cultivation, and a more +fertile soil. The whole country we have passed is agreeable, but +uniform; the roads are good, and planted on each side with trees, mostly +elms, except here and there some rows of poplar or apple. The land is +all open, and sown in divisions of corn, carrots, potatoes, tobacco, and +poppies of which last they make a coarse kind of oil for the use of +painters. The country is entirely flat, and the view every where bounded +by woods interspersed with villages, whose little spires peeping through +the trees have a very pleasing effect. + +The people of Artois are said to be highly superstitious, and we have +already passed a number of small chapels and crosses, erected by the road +side, and surrounded by tufts of trees. These are the inventions of a +mistaken piety; yet they are not entirely without their use, and I cannot +help regarding them with more complacence than a rigid Protestant might +think allowable. The weary traveller here finds shelter from a mid-day +sun, and solaces his mind while he reposes his body. The glittering +equipage rolls by--he recalls the painful steps he has past, anticipates +those which yet remain, and perhaps is tempted to repine; but when he +turns his eye on the cross of Him who has promised a recompence to the +sufferers of this world, he checks the sigh of envy, forgets the luxury +which excited it, and pursues his way with resignation. The Protestant +religion proscribes, and the character of the English renders +unnecessary, these sensible objects of devotion; but I have always been +of opinion, that the levity of the French in general would make them +incapable of persevering in a form of worship equally abstracted and +rational. The Spaniards, and even the Italians, might abolish their +crosses and images, and yet preserve their Christianity; but if the +French ceased to be bigots, they would become atheists. + +This is a small fortified town, though not of strength to offer any +resistance to artillery. Its proximity to the frontier, and the dread of +the Austrians, make the inhabitants very patriotic. We were surrounded +by a great croud of people on our arrival, who had some suspicion that we +were emigrating; however, as soon as our passports were examined and +declared legal, they retired very peaceably. + +The approach of the enemy keeps up the spirit of the people, and, +notwithstanding their dissatisfaction at the late events, they have not +yet felt the change of their government sufficiently to desire the +invasion of an Austrian army.--Every village, every cottage, hailed us +with the cry of Vive la nation! The cabaret invites you to drink beer a +la nation, and offers you lodging a la nation--the chandler's shop sells +you snuff and hair powder a la nation--and there are even patriotic +barbers whose signs inform you, that you may be shaved and have your +teeth drawn a la nation! These are acts of patriotism one cannot +reasonably object to; but the frequent and tedious examination of one's +passports by people who can't read, is not quite so inoffensive, and I +sometimes lose my patience. A very vigilant _Garde Nationale_ yesterday, +after spelling my passport over for ten minutes, objected that it was not +a good one. I maintained that it was; and feeling a momentary importance +at the recollection of my country, added, in an assuring tone, _"Et +d'ailleurs je suis Anglaise et par consequent libre d'aller ou bon me +semble._*" The man stared, but admitted my argument, and we passed on. + + *"Besides, I am a native of England, and, consequently, have a right + to go where I please." + +My room door is half open, and gives me a prospect into that of Mad. de +L____, which is on the opposite side of the passage. She has not yet put +on her cap, but her grey hair is profusely powdered; and, with no other +garments than a short under petticoat and a corset, she stands for the +edification of all who pass, putting on her rouge with a stick and a +bundle of cotton tied to the end of it.--All travellers agree in +describing great indelicacy to the French women; yet I have seen no +accounts which exaggerate it, and scarce any that have not been more +favourable than a strict adherence to truth might justify. This +inattractive part of the female national character is not confined to the +lower or middling classes of life; and an English woman is as likely to +be put to the blush in the boudoir of a Marquise, as in the shop of the +Grisette, which serves also for her dressing-room. + +If I am not too idle, or too much amused, you will soon be informed of my +arrival at Arras; but though I should neglect to write, be persuaded I +shall never cease to be, with affection and esteem, Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, August, 1792. + +The appearance of Arras is not busy in proportion to its population, +because its population is not equal to its extent; and as it is a large, +without being a commercial, town, it rather offers a view of the tranquil +enjoyment of wealth, than of the bustle and activity by which it is +procured. The streets are mostly narrow and ill paved, and the shops +look heavy and mean; but the hotels, which chiefly occupy the low town, +are large and numerous. What is called la Petite Place, is really very +large, and small only in comparison with the great one, which, I believe, +is the largest in France. It is, indeed, an immense quadrangle--the +houses are in the Spanish form, and it has an arcade all round it. The +Spaniards, by whom it was built, forgot, probably, that this kind of +shelter would not be so desirable here as in their own climate. The +manufacture of tapestry, which a single line of Shakespeare has +immortalized, and associated with the mirthful image of his fat Knight, +has fallen into decay. The manufacturers of linen and woollen are but +inconsiderable; and one, which existed till lately, of a very durable +porcelain, is totally neglected. The principal article of commerce is +lace, which is made here in great quantities. The people of all ages, +from five years old to seventy, are employed in this delicate fabrick. +In fine weather you will see whole streets lined with females, each with +her cushion on her lap. The people of Arras are uncommonly dirty, and +the lacemakers do not in this matter differ from their fellow-citizens; +yet at the door of a house, which, but for the surrounding ones, you +would suppose the common receptacle of all the filth in the vicinage, is +often seated a female artizan, whose fingers are forming a point of +unblemished whiteness. It is inconceivable how fast the bobbins move +under their hands; and they seem to bestow so little attention on their +work, that it looks more like the amusement of idleness than an effort of +industry. I am no judge of the arguments of philosophers and politicians +for and against the use of luxury in a state; but if it be allowable at +all, much may be said in favour of this pleasing article of it. Children +may be taught to make it at a very early age, and they can work at home +under the inspection of their parents, which is certainly preferable to +crouding them together in manufactories, where their health is injured, +and their morals are corrupted. + +By requiring no more implements than about five shillings will purchase, +a lacemaker is not dependent on the shopkeeper, nor the head of a +manufactory. All who choose to work have it in their own power, and can +dispose of the produce of their labour, without being at the mercy of an +avaricious employer; for though a tolerable good workwoman can gain a +decent livelihood by selling to the shops, yet the profit of the retailer +is so great, that if he rejected a piece of lace, or refused to give a +reasonable price for it, a certain sale would be found with the +individual consumer: and it is a proof of the independence of this +employ, that no one will at present dispose of their work for paper, and +it still continues to be paid for in money. Another argument in favour +of encouraging lace-making is, that it cannot be usurped by men: you may +have men-milliners, men-mantuamakers, and even ladies' valets, but you +cannot well fashion the clumsy and inflexible fingers of man to +lace-making. We import great quantities of lace from this country, yet +I imagine we might, by attention, be enabled to supply other countries, +instead of purchasing abroad ourselves. The art of spinning is daily +improving in England; and if thread sufficiently fine can be +manufactured, there is no reason why we should not equal our neighbours +in the beauty of this article. The hands of English women are more +delicate than those of the French; and our climate is much the same as +that of Brussels, Arras, Lisle, &c. where the finest lace is made. + +The population of Arras is estimated at about twenty-five thousand souls, +though many people tell me it is greater. It has, however, been lately +much thinned by emigration, suppression of convents, and the decline of +trade, occasioned by the absence of so many rich inhabitants.--The +Jacobins are here become very formidable: they have taken possession of a +church for their meetings, and, from being the ridicule, are become the +terror of all moderate people. + +Yesterday was appointed for taking the new oath of liberty and equality. +I did not see the ceremony, as the town was in much confusion, and it was +deemed unsafe to be from home. I understand it was attended only by the +very refuse of the people, and that, as a gallanterie analogue, the +President of the department gave his arm to Madame Duchene, who sells +apples in a cellar, and is Presidente of the Jacobin club. It is, +however, reported to-day, that she is in disgrace with the society for +her condescension; and her parading the town with a man of forty thousand +livres a year is thought to be too great a compliment to the aristocracy +of riches; so that Mons. Le President's political gallantry has availed +him nothing. He has debased and made himself the ridicule of the +Aristocrates and Constitutionalists, without paying his court, as he +intended, to the popular faction. I would always wish it to happen so to +those who offer up incense to the mob. As human beings, as one's fellow +creatures, the poor and uninformed have a claim to our affection and +benevolence, but when they become legislators, they are absurd and +contemptible tyrants.--_A propos_--we were obliged to acknowledge this new +sovereignty by illuminating the house on the occasion; and this was not +ordered by nocturnal vociferation as in England, but by a regular command +from an officer deputed for that purpose. + +I am concerned to see the people accustomed to take a number of +incompatible oaths with indifference: it neither will nor can come to any +good; and I am ready to exclaim with Juliet--"Swear not at all." Or, if +ye must swear, quarrel not with the Pope, that your consciences may at +least be relieved by dispensations and indulgences. + +To-morrow we go to Lisle, notwithstanding the report that it has already +been summoned to surrender. You will scarcely suppose it possible, yet +we find it difficult to learn the certainty of this, at the distance of +only thirty miles: but communication is much less frequent and easy here +than in England. I am not one of those "unfortunate women who delight in +war;" and, perhaps, the sight of this place, so famous for its +fortifications, will not be very amusing to me, nor furnish much matter +of communication for my friends; but I shall write, if it be only to +assure you that I am not made prize of by the Austrians. Yours, &c. + + + + +Lisle, August, 1792. + +You restless islanders, who are continually racking imagination to +perfect the art of moving from one place to another, and who can drop +asleep in a carriage and wake at an hundred mile distance, have no notion +of all the difficulties of a day's journey here. In the first place, all +the horses of private persons have been taken for the use of the army, +and those for hire are constantly employed in going to the camp--hence, +there is a difficulty in procuring horses. Then a French carriage is +never in order, and in France a job is not to be done just when you want +it--so that there is often a difficulty in finding vehicles. Then there +is the difficulty of passports, and the difficulty of gates, if you want +to depart early. Then the difficulties of patching harness on the road, +and, above all, the inflexible _sang froid_ of drivers. All these things +considered, you will not wonder that we came here a day after we +intended, and arrived at night, when we ought to have arrived at noon. +--The carriage wanted a trifling repair, and we could get neither +passports nor horses. The horses were gone to the army--the municipality +to the club--and the blacksmith was employed at the barracks in making a +patriotic harangue to the soldiers.--But we at length surmounted all +these obstacles, and reached this place last night. + +The road between Arras and Lisle is equally rich with that we before +passed, but is much more diversified. The plain of Lens is not such a +scene of fertility, that one forgets it has once been that of war and +carnage. We endeavoured to learn in the town whereabouts the column was +erected that commemmorates that famous battle, [1648.] but no one seemed +to know any thing of the matter. One who, we flattered ourselves, looked +more intelligent than the rest, and whom we supposed might be an +attorney, upon being asked for this spot,--(where, added Mr. de ____, by +way of assisting his memory, _"le Prince de Conde s'est battu si bien,"_) +--replied, _"Pour la bataille je n'en sais rien, mais pour le Prince de +Conde il y a deja quelque tems qu'il est emigre--on le dit a Coblentz."_* +After this we thought it in vain to make any farther enquiry, and +continued our walk about the town. + + *"Where the Prince of Conde fought so gallantly."--"As to the battle + I know nothing about the matter; but for the Prince of Conde he + emigrated some time since--they say he is at Coblentz." + +Mr. P____, who, according to French custom, had not breakfasted, took a +fancy to stop at a baker's shop and buy a roll. The man bestowed so much +more civility on us than our two sols were worth, that I observed, on +quitting the shop, I was sure he must be an Aristocrate. Mr. P____, who +is a warm Constitutionalist, disputed the justice of my inference, and we +agreed to return, and learn the baker's political principles. After +asking for more rolls, we accosted him with the usual phrase, "Et vous, +Monsieur, vous etes bon patriote?"--_"Ah, mon Dieu, oui,_ (replied he,) +_il faut bien l'etre a present."_* + + *"And you, Sir, are without doubt, a good patriot?"--"Oh Lord, Sir, + yes; one's obliged to be so, now-a-days." + +Mr. P____ admitted the man's tone of voice and countenance as good +evidence, and acknowledged I was right.--It is certain that the French +have taken it into their heads, that coarseness of manners is a necessary +consequence of liberty, and that there is a kind of leze nation in being +too civil; so that, in general, I think I can discover the principles of +shopkeepers, even without the indications of a melancholy mien at the +assignats, or lamentations on the times. + +The new doctrine of primeval equality has already made some progress. At +a small inn at Carvin, where, upon the assurance that they had every +thing in the world, we stopped to dine, on my observing they had laid +more covers than were necessary, the woman answered, "Et les domestiques, +ne dinent ils pas?"--"And, pray, are the servants to have no dinner?" + +We told her not with us, and the plates were taken away; but we heard her +muttering in the kitchen, that she believed we were aristocrates going to +emigrate. She might imagine also that we were difficult to satisfy, for +we found it impossible to dine, and left the house hungry, +notwithstanding there was "every thing in the world" in it. + +On the road between Carvin and Lisle we saw Dumouriez, who is going to +take the command of the army, and has now been visiting the camp of +Maulde. He appears to be under the middle size, about fifty years of +age, with a brown complexion, dark eyes, and an animated countenance. He +was not originally distinguished either by birth or fortune, and has +arrived at his present situation by a concurrence of fortuitous +circumstances, by great and various talents, much address, and a spirit +of intrigue. He is now supported by the prevailing party; and, I +confess, I could not regard with much complacence a man, whom the +machinations of the Jacobins had forced into the ministry, and whose +hypocritical and affected resignation has contributed to deceive the +people, and ruin the King. + +Lisle has all the air of a great town, and the mixture of commercial +industry and military occupation gives it a very gay and populous +appearance. The Lillois are highly patriotic, highly incensed against +the Austrians, and regard the approaching siege with more contempt than +apprehension. I asked the servant who was making my bed this morning, +how far the enemy was off. _"Une lieue et demie, ou deux lieues, a moins +qu'ils ne soient plus avances depuis hier,"_* repled she, with the utmost +indifference.--I own, I did not much approve of such a vicinage, and a +view of the fortifications (which did not make the less impression, +because I did not understand them,) was absolutely necessary to raise my +drooping courage. + + *"A league and a half, or two leagues; unless, indeed, they have + advanced since yesterday." + +This morning was dedicated to visiting the churches, citadel, and +Collisee (a place of amusement in the manner of our Vauxhall); but all +these things have been so often described by much abler pens, that I +cannot modestly pretend to add any thing on the subject. + +In the evening we were at the theatre, which is large and handsome; and +the constant residence of a numerous garrison enables it to entertain a +very good set of performers:--their operas in particular are extremely +well got up. I saw Zemire et Azor given better than at Drury Lane.--In +the farce, which was called Le Francois a Londres, was introduced a +character they called that of an Englishman, (Jack Roastbeef,) who pays +his addresses to a nobleman's daughter, in a box coate, a large hat +slouched over his eyes, and an oaken trowel in his hand--in short, the +whole figure exactly resembling that of a watchman. His conversation is +gross and sarcastic, interlarded with oaths, or relieved by fits of +sullen taciturnity--such a lover as one may suppose, though rich, and the +choice of the lady's father, makes no impression; and the author has +flattered the national vanity by making the heroine give the preference +to a French marquis. Now there is no doubt but nine-tenths of the +audience thought this a good portraiture of the English character, and +enjoyed it with all the satisfaction of conscious superiority.--The +ignorance that prevails with regard to our manners and customs, among a +people so near us, is surprizing. It is true, that the noblesse who have +visited England with proper recommendations, and have been introduced to +the best society, do us justice: the men of letters also, who, from party +motives, extol every thing English, have done us perhaps more than +justice. But I speak of the French in general; not the lower classes +only, but the gentry of the provinces, and even those who in other +respects have pretensions to information. The fact is, living in England +is expensive: a Frenchman, whose income here supports him as a gentleman, +goes over and finds all his habits of oeconomy insufficient to keep him +from exceeding the limits he had prescribed to himself. His decent +lodging alone costs him a great part of his revenue, and obliges him to +be strictly parsimonious of the rest. This drives him to associate +chiefly with his own countrymen, to dine at obscure coffee-houses, and +pay his court to opera-dancers. He sees, indeed, our theatres, our +public walks, the outside of our palaces, and the inside of churches: but +this gives him no idea of the manners of the people in superior life, or +even of easy fortune. Thus he goes home, and asserts to his untravelled +countrymen, that our King and nobility are ill lodged, our churches mean, +and that the English are barbarians, who dine without soup, use no +napkin, and eat with their knives.--I have heard a gentleman of some +respectability here observe, that our usual dinner was an immense joint +of meat half drest, and a dish of vegetables scarcely drest at all.--Upon +questioning him, I discovered he had lodged in St. Martin's Lane, had +likewise boarded at a country attorney's of the lowest class, and dined +at an ordinary at Margate. + +Some few weeks ago the Marquis de P____ set out from Paris in the +diligence, and accompanied by his servant, with a design of emigrating. +Their only fellow-traveller was an Englishman, whom they frequently +addressed, and endeavoured to enter into conversation with; but he either +remained silent, or gave them to understand he was entirely ignorant of +the language. Under this persuasion the Marquis and his valet freely +discussed their affairs, arranged their plan of emigration, and +expressed, with little ceremony, their political opinions.--At the end of +their journey they were denounced by their companion, and conducted to +prison. The magistrate who took the information mentioned the +circumstance when I happened to be present. Indignant at such an act in +an Englishman, I enquired his name. You will judge of my surprize, when +he assured me it was the English Ambassador. I observed to him, that it +was not common for our Ambassadors to travel in stage-coaches: this, he +said, he knew; but that having reason to suspect the Marquis, Monsieur +l'Ambassadeur had had the goodness to have him watched, and had taken +this journey on purpose to detect him. It was not without much +reasoning, and the evidence of a lady who had been in England long enough +to know the impossibility of such a thing, that I would justify Lord +G____ from this piece of complaisance to the Jacobins, and convince the +worthy magistrate he had been imposed upon: yet this man is the Professor +of Eloquence at a college, is the oracle of the Jacobin society; and may +perhaps become a member of the Convention. This seems so almost +incredibly absurd, that I should fear to repeat it, were it not known to +many besides myself; but I think I may venture to pronounce, from my own +observation, and that of others, whose judgement, and occasions of +exercising it, give weight to their opinions, that the generality of the +French who have read a little are mere pedants, nearly unacquainted with +modern nations, their commercial and political relation, their internal +laws, characters, or manners. Their studies are chiefly confined to +Rollin and Plutarch, the deistical works of Voltaire, and the visionary +politics of Jean Jaques. Hence they amuse their hearers with allusions +to Caesar and Lycurgus, the Rubicon, and Thermopylae. Hence they pretend +to be too enlightened for belief, and despise all governments not founded +on the Contrat Social, or the Profession de Foi.--They are an age removed +from the useful literature and general information of the middle classes +in their own country--they talk familiarly of Sparta and Lacedemon, and +have about the same idea of Russia as they have of Caffraria. Yours. + + + + +Lisle. + +"Married to another, and that before those shoes were old with which she +followed my poor father to the grave."--There is scarcely any +circumstance, or situation, in which, if one's memory were good, one +should not be mentally quoting Shakespeare. I have just now been +whispering the above, as I passed the altar of liberty, which still +remains on the Grande Place. But "a month, a little month," ago, on this +altar the French swore to maintain the constitution, and to be faithful +to the law and the King; yet this constitution is no more, the laws are +violated, the King is dethroned, and the altar is now only a monument of +levity and perjury, which they have not feeling enough to remove. + +The Austrians are daily expected to besiege this place, and they may +destroy, but they will not take it. I do not, as you may suppose, +venture to speak so decisively in a military point of view--I know as +little as possible of the excellencies of Vauban, or the adequacy of the +garrison; but I draw my inference from the spirit of enthusiasm which +prevails among the inhabitants of every class--every individual seems to +partake of it: the streets resound with patriotic acclamations, patriotic +songs, war, and defiance.--Nothing can be more animating than the +theatre. Every allusion to the Austrians, every song or sentence, +expressive of determined resistance, is followed by bursts of assent, +easily distinguishable not to be the effort of party, but the sentiment +of the people in general. There are, doubtless, here, as in all other +places, party dissensions; but the threatened siege seems at least to +have united all for their common defence: they know that a bomb makes no +distinction between Feuillans, Jacobins, or Aristocrates, and neither are +so anxious to destroy the other, when it is only to be done at such a +risk to themselves. I am even willing to hope that something better than +mere selfishness has a share in their uniting to preserve one of the +finest, and, in every sense, one of the most interesting, towns in +France. + + + + +Lisle, Saturday. + +We are just on our departure for Arras, where, I fear, we shall scarcely +arrive before the gates are shut. We have been detained here much beyond +our time, by a circumstance infinitely shocking, though, in fact, not +properly a subject of regret. One of the assassins of General Dillon was +this morning guillotined before the hotel where we are lodged.--I did +not, as you will conclude, see the operation; but the mere circumstance +of knowing the moment it was performed, and being so near it, has much +unhinged me. The man, however, deserved his fate, and such an example +was particularly necessary at this time, when we are without a +government, and the laws are relaxed. The mere privation of life is, +perhaps, more quickly effected by this instrument than by any other +means; but when we recollect that the preparation for, and apprehension +of, death, constitute its greatest terrors; that a human hand must give +motion to the Guillotine as well as to the axe; and that either accustoms +a people, already sanguinary, to the sight of blood, I think little is +gained by the invention. It was imagined by a Mons. Guillotin, a +physician of Paris, and member of the Constituent Assembly. The original +design seems not so much to spare pain to the criminal, as obloquy to the +executioner. I, however, perceive little difference between a man's +directing a Guillotine, or tying a rope; and I believe the people are of +the same opinion. They will never see any thing but a _bourreau_ +[executioner] in the man whose province it is to execute the sentence of +the laws, whatever name he may be called by, or whatever instrument he +may make use of.--I have concluded this letter with a very unpleasant +subject, but my pen is guided by circumstances, and I do not invent, but +communicate.--Adieu. Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September 1, 1792. + +Had I been accompanied by an antiquary this morning, his sensibility +would have been severely exercised; for even I, whose respect for +antiquity is not scientific, could not help lamenting the modern rage for +devastation which has seized the French. They are removing all "the +time-honoured figures" of the cathedral, and painting its massive +supporters in the style of a ball-room. The elaborate uncouthness of +ancient sculpture is not, indeed, very beautiful; yet I have often +fancied there was something more simply pathetic in the aukward effigy of +an hero kneeling amidst his trophies, or a regal pair with their +supplicating hands and surrounding offspring, than in the graceful +figures and poetic allegories of the modern artist. The humble intreaty +to the reader to "praye for the soule of the departed," is not very +elegant--yet it is better calculated to recall the wanderings of +morality, than the flattering epitaph, a Fame hovering in the air, or the +suspended wreath of the remunerating angel.--But I moralize in vain--the +rage of these new Goths is inexorable: they seem solicitous to destroy +every vestige of civilization, lest the people should remember they have +not always been barbarians. + +After obtaining an order from the municipality, we went to see the +gardens and palace of the Bishop, who has emigrated. The garden has +nothing very remarkable, but is large and well laid out, according to the +old style. It forms a very agreeable walk, and, when the Bishop possest +it, was open for the enjoyment of the inhabitants, but it is now shut up +and in disorder. The house is plain, and substantially furnished, and +exhibits no appearance of unbecoming luxury. The whole is now the +property of the nation, and will soon be disposed of.--I could not help +feeling a sensation of melancholy as we walked over the apartments. +Every thing is marked in an inventory, just as left; and an air of +arrangement and residence leads one to reflect, that the owner did not +imagine at his departure he was quitting it perhaps for ever. I am not +partial to the original emigrants, yet much may be said for the Bishop of +Arras. He was pursued by ingratitude, and marked for persecution. The +Robespierres were young men whom he had taken from a mean state, had +educated, and patronized. The revolution gave them an opportunity of +displaying their talents, and their talents procured them popularity. +They became enemies to the clergy, because their patron was a Bishop; and +endeavoured to render their benefactor odious, because the world could +not forget, nor they forgive, how much they were indebted to him.--Vice +is not often passive; nor is there often a medium between gratitude for +benefits, and hatred to the author of them. A little mind is hurt by the +remembrance of obligation--begins by forgetting, and, not uncommonly, +ends by persecuting. + +We dined and passed the afternoon from home to-day. After dinner our +hostess, as usual, proposed cards; and, as usual in French societies, +every one assented: we waited, however, some time, and no cards came-- +till, at length, conversation-parties were formed, and they were no +longer thought of. I have since learned, from one of the young women of +the house, that the butler and two footmen had all betaken themselves to +clubs and Guinguettes,* and the cards, counters, &c. could not be +obtained. + + * Small public houses in the vicinity of large towns, where the + common people go on Sundays and festivals to dance and make merry. + +This is another evil arising from the circumstances of the times. All +people of property have begun to bury their money and plate, and as the +servants are often unavoidably privy to it, they are become idle and +impertinent--they make a kind of commutation of diligence for fidelity, +and imagine that the observance of the one exempts them from the +necessity of the other. The clubs are a constant receptacle for +idleness; and servants who think proper to frequent them do it with very +little ceremony, knowing that few whom they serve would be imprudent +enough to discharge them for their patriotism in attending a Jacobin +society. Even servants who are not converts to the new principle cannot +resist the temptation of abusing a little the power which they acquire +from a knowledge of family affairs. Perhaps the effect of the revolution +has not, on the whole, been favourable to the morals of the lower class +of people; but this shall be the subject of discussion at some future +period, when I shall have had farther opportunities of judging. + +We yesterday visited the Oratoire, a seminary for education, which is now +suppressed. The building is immense, and admirably calculated for the +purpose, but is already in a state of dilapidation; so that, I fear, by +the time the legislature has determined what system of instruction shall +be substituted for that which has been abolished, the children (as the +French are fond of examples from the ancients) will take their lessons, +like the Greeks, in the open air; and, in the mean while, become expert +in lying and thieving, like the Spartans. + +The Superior of the house is an immoderate revolutionist, speaks English +very well, and is a great admirer of our party writers. In his room I +observed a vast quantity of English books, and on his chimney stood what +he called a patriotic clock, the dial of which was placed between two +pyramids, on which were inscribed the names of republican authors, and on +the top of one was that of our countryman, Mr. Thomas Paine--whom, by the +way, I understand you intended to exhibit in a much more conspicuous and +less tranquil situation. I assure you, though you are ungrateful on your +side of the water, he is in high repute here--his works are translated-- +all the Jacobins who can read quote, and all who can't, admire him; and +possibly, at the very moment you are sentencing him to an installment in +the pillory, we may be awarding him a triumph.--Perhaps we are both +right. He deserves the pillory, from you for having endeavoured to +destroy a good constitution--and the French may with equal reason grant +him a triumph, as their constitution is likely to be so bad, that even +Mr. Thomas Paine's writings may make it better! + +Our house is situated within view of a very pleasant public walk, where I +am daily amused with a sight of the recruits at their exercise. This is +not quite so regular a business as the drill in the Park. The exercise +is often interrupted by disputes between the officer and his eleves--some +are for turning to the right, others to the left, and the matter is not +unfrequently adjusted by each going the way that seemeth best unto +himself. The author of the _"Actes des Apotres"_ [The Acts of the +Apostles] cites a Colonel who reprimanded one of his corps for walking +ill--_"Eh Dicentre,_ (replied the man,) _comment veux tu que je marche +bien quand tu as fait mes souliers trop etroits."_* but this is no longer +a pleasantry--such circumstances are very common. A Colonel may often be +tailor to his own regiment, and a Captain operated on the heads of his +whole company, in his civil capacity, before he commands them in his +military one. + + *"And how the deuce can you expect me to march well, when you have + made my shoes too tight?" + +The walks I have just mentioned have been extremely beautiful, but a +great part of the trees have been cut down, and the ornamental parts +destroyed, since the revolution--I know not why, as they were open to the +poor as well as the rich, and were a great embellishment to the low town. +You may think it strange that I should be continually dating some +destruction from the aera of the revolution--that I speak of every thing +demolished, and of nothing replaced. But it is not my fault--"If freedom +grows destructive, I must paint it:" though I should tell you, that in +many streets where convents have been sold, houses are building with the +materials on the same site.--This is, however, not a work of the nation, +but of individuals, who have made their purchases cheap, and are +hastening to change the form of their property, lest some new revolution +should deprive them of it.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September. + +Nothing more powerfully excites the attention of a stranger on his first +arrival, than the number and wretchedness of the poor at Arras. In all +places poverty claims compulsion, but here compassion is accompanied by +horror--one dares not contemplate the object one commiserates, and +charity relieves with an averted eye. Perhaps with Him, who regards +equally the forlorn beggar stretched on the threshold, consumed by filth +and disease, and the blooming beauty who avoids while she succours him, +the offering of humanity scarcely expiates the involuntary disgust; yet +such is the weakness of our nature, that there exists a degree of misery +against which one's senses are not proof, and benevolence itself revolts +at the appearance of the poor of Arras.--These are not the cold and +fastidious reflections of an unfeeling mind--they are not made without +pain: nor have I often felt the want of riches and consequence so much as +in my incapacity to promote some means of permanent and substantial +remedy for the evils I have been describing. I have frequently enquired +the cause of this singular misery, but can only learn that it always has +been so. I fear it is, that the poor are without energy, and the rich +without generosity. The decay of manufactures since the last century +must have reduced many families to indigence. These have been able to +subsist on the refuse of luxury, but, too supine for exertion, they have +sought for nothing more; while the great, discharging their consciences +with the superfluity of what administered to their pride, fostered the +evil, instead of endeavouring to remedy it. But the benevolence of the +French is not often active, nor extensive; it is more frequently a +religious duty than a sentiment. They content themselves with affording +a mere existence to wretchedness; and are almost strangers to those +enlightened and generous efforts which act beyond the moment, and seek +not only to relieve poverty, but to banish it. Thus, through the frigid +and indolent charity of the rich, the misery which was at first +accidental is perpetuated, beggary and idleness become habitual, and are +transmitted, like more fortunate inheritances, from one generation to +another.--This is not a mere conjecture--I have listened to the histories +of many of these unhappy outcasts, who were more than thirty years old, +and they have all told me, they were born in the state in which I beheld +them, and that they did not remember to have heard that their parents +were in any other. The National Assembly profess to effectuate an entire +regeneration of the country, and to eradicate all evils, moral, physical, +and political. I heartily wish the numerous and miserable poor, with +which Arras abounds, may become one of the first objects of reform; and +that a nation which boasts itself the most polished, the most powerful, +and the most philosophic in the world, may not offer to the view so many +objects shocking to humanity. + +The citadel of Arras is very strong, and, as I am told, the chef d'oeuvre +of Vauban; but placed with so little judgement, that the military call it +_la belle inutile_ [the useless beauty]. It is now uninhabited, and +wears an appearance of desolation--the commandant and all the officers of +the ancient government having been forced to abandon it; their houses +also are much damaged, and the gardens entirely destroyed.--I never heard +that this popular commotion had any other motive than the general war of +the new doctrines on the old. + +I am sorry to see that most of the volunteers who go to join the army are +either old men or boys, tempted by extraordinary pay and scarcity of +employ. A cobler who has been used to rear canary-birds for Mad. de +____, brought us this morning all the birds he was possessed of, and told +us he was going to-morrow to the frontiers. We asked him why, at his +age, he should think of joining the army. He said, he had already +served, and that there were a few months unexpired of the time that would +entitle him to his pension.--"Yes; but in the mean while you may get +killed; and then of what service will your claim to a pension be?"-- +_"N'ayez pas peur, Madame--Je me menagerai bien--on ne se bat pas pour ces +gueux la comme pour son Roi."_* + + * "No fear of that, Madam--I'll take good care of myself: a man does + not fight for such beggarly rascals as these as he would for his + King." + +M. de ____ is just returned from the camp of Maulde, where he has been to +see his son. He says, there is great disorder and want of discipline, +and that by some means or other the common soldiers abound more in money, +and game higher, than their officers. There are two young women, +inhabitants of the town of St. Amand, who go constantly out on all +skirmishing parties, exercise daily with the men, and have killed several +of the enemy. They are both pretty--one only sixteen, the other a year +or two older. Mr. de ____ saw them as they were just returning from a +reconnoitring party. Perhaps I ought to have been ashamed after this +recital to decline an invitation from Mr. de R___'s son to dine with him +at the camp; but I cannot but feel that I am an extreme coward, and that +I should eat with no appetite in sight of an Austrian army. The very +idea of these modern Camillas terrifies me--their creation seems an error +of nature.* + + * Their name was Fernig; they were natives of St. Amand, and of no + remarkable origin. They followed Dumouriez into Flanders, where + they signalized themselves greatly, and became Aides-de-Camp to that + General. At the time of his defection, one of them was shot by a + soldier, whose regiment she was endeavouring to gain over. Their + house having been razed by the Austrians at the beginning of the + war, was rebuilt at the expence of the nation; but, upon their + participation in Dumouriez' treachery, a second decree of the + Assembly again levelled it with the ground. + +Our host, whose politeness is indefatigable, accompanied us a few days +ago to St. Eloy, a large and magnificent abbey, about six miles from +Arras. It is built on a terrace, which commands the surrounding country +as far as Douay; and I think I counted an hundred and fifty steps from +the house to the bottom of the garden, which is on a level with the road. +The cloisters are paved with marble, and the church neat and beautiful +beyond description. The iron work of the choir imitates flowers and +foliage with so much taste and delicacy, that (but for the colour) one +would rather suppose it to be soil, than any durable material.--The monks +still remain, and although the decree has passed for their suppression, +they cannot suppose it will take place. They are mostly old men, and, +though I am no friend to these institutions, they were so polite and +hospitable that I could not help wishing they were permitted, according +to the design of the first Assembly, to die in their habitations-- +especially as the situation of St. Eloy renders the building useless for +any other purpose.--A friend of Mr. de ____ has a charming country-house +near the abbey, which he has been obliged to deny himself the enjoyment +of, during the greatest part of the summer; for whenever the family +return to Arras, their persons and their carriage are searched at the +gate, as strictly as though they were smugglers just arrived from the +coast, under the pretence that they may assist the religious of St. Eloy +in securing some of their property, previous to the final seizure. + +I observe, in walking the streets here, that the common people still +retain much of the Spanish cast of features: the women are remarkably +plain, and appear still more so by wearing faals. The faal is about two +ells of black silk or stuff, which is hung, without taste or form, on the +head, and is extremely unbecoming: but it is worn only by the lower +class, or by the aged and devotees. + +I am a very voluminous correspondent, but if I tire you, it is a proper +punishment for your insincerity in desiring me to continue so. I have +heard of a governor of one of our West India islands who was universally +detested by its inhabitants, but who, on going to England, found no +difficulty in procuring addresses expressive of approbation and esteem. +The consequence was, he came back and continued governor for life.--Do +you make the application of my anecdote, and I shall persevere in +scribbling.--Every Yours. + + + + +Arras. + +It is not fashionable at present to frequent any public place; but as we +are strangers, and of no party, we often pass our evenings at the +theatre. I am fond of it--not so much on account of the representation, +as of the opportunity which it affords for observing the dispositions of +the people, and the bias intended to be given them. The stage is now +become a kind of political school, where the people are taught hatred to +Kings, Nobility, and Clergy, according as the persecution of the moment +requires; and, I think, one may often judge from new pieces the meditated +sacrifice. A year ago, all the sad catalogue of human errors were +personified in Counts and Marquisses; they were not represented as +individuals whom wealth and power had made something too proud, and much +too luxurious, but as an order of monsters, whose existence, +independently of their characters, was a crime, and whose hereditary +possessions alone implied a guilt, not to be expiated but by the +forfeiture of them. This, you will say, was not very judicious; and that +by establishing a sort of incompatibility of virtue with titular +distinctions, the odium was transferred from the living to the dead--from +those who possessed these distinctions to those who instituted them. +But, unfortunately, the French were disposed to find their noblesse +culpable, and to reject every thing which tended to excuse or favour +them. The hauteur of the noblesse acted as a fatal equivalent to every +other crime; and many, who did not credit other imputations, rejoiced in +the humiliation of their pride. The people, the rich merchants, and even +the lesser gentry, all eagerly concurred in the destruction of an order +that had disdained or excluded them; and, perhaps, of all the innovations +which have taken place, the abolition of rank has excited the least +interest. + +It is now less necessary to blacken the noblesse, and the compositions of +the day are directed against the Throne, the Clergy, and Monastic Orders. +All the tyrants of past ages are brought from the shelves of faction and +pedantry, and assimilated to the mild and circumscribed monarchs of +modern Europe. The doctrine of popular sovereignty is artfully +instilled, and the people are stimulated to exert a power which they must +implicitly delegate to those who have duped and misled them. The frenzy +of a mob is represented as the sublimest effort of patriotism; and +ambition and revenge, usurping the title of national justice, immolate +their victims with applause. The tendency of such pieces is too obvious; +and they may, perhaps, succeed in familiarizing the minds of the people +to events which, a few months ago, would have filled them with horror. +There are also numerous theatrical exhibitions, preparatory to the +removal of the nuns from their convents, and to the banishment of the +priests. Ancient prejudices are not yet obliterated, and I believe some +pains have been taken to justify these persecutions by calumny. The +history of our dissolution of the monasteries has been ransacked for +scandal, and the bigotry and biases of all countries are reduced into +abstracts, and exposed on the stage. The most implacable revenge, the +most refined malice, the extremes of avarice and cruelty, are wrought +into tragedies, and displayed as acting under the mask of religion and +the impunity of a cloister; while operas and farces, with ridicule still +more successful, exhibit convents as the abode of licentiousness, +intrigue, and superstition. + +These efforts have been sufficiently successful--not from the merit of +the pieces, but from the novelty of the subject. The people in general +were strangers to the interior of convents: they beheld them with that +kind of respect which is usually produced in uninformed minds by mystery +and prohibition. Even the monastic habit was sacred from dramatic uses; +so that a representation of cloisters, monks, and nuns, their costumes +and manners, never fails to attract the multitude.--But the same cause +which renders them curious, makes them credulous. Those who have seen no +farther than the Grille, and those who have been educated in convents, +are equally unqualified to judge of the lives of the religious; and their +minds, having no internal conviction or knowledge of the truth, easily +become the converts of slander and falsehood. + +I cannot help thinking, that there is something mean and cruel in this +procedure. If policy demand the sacrifice, it does not require that the +victims should be rendered odious; and if it be necessary to dispossess +them of their habitations, they ought not, at the moment they are thrown +upon the world, to be painted as monsters unworthy of its pity or +protection. It is the cowardice of the assassin, who murders before he +dares to rob. + +This custom of making public amusements subservient to party, has, I +doubt not, much contributed to the destruction of all against whom it has +been employed; and theatrical calumny seems to be always the harbinger of +approaching ruin to its object; yet this is not the greatest evil which +may arise from these insidious politics--they are equally unfavourable +both to the morals and taste of the people; the first are injured beyond +calculation, and the latter corrupted beyond amendment. The orders of +society, which formerly inspired respect or veneration, are now debased +and exploded; and mankind, once taught to see nothing but vice and +hypocrisy in those whom they had been accustomed to regard as models of +virtue, are easily led to doubt the very existence of virtue itself: they +know not where to turn for either instruction or example; no prospect is +offered to them but the dreary and uncomfortable view of general +depravity; and the individual is no longer encouraged to struggle with +vicious propensities, when he concludes them irresistibly inherent in his +nature. Perhaps it was not possible to imagine principles at once so +seductive and ruinous as those now disseminated. How are the morals of +the people to resist a doctrine which teaches them that the rich only can +be criminal, and that poverty is a substitute for virtue--that wealth is +holden by the sufferance of those who do not possess it--and that he who +is the frequenter of a club, or the applauder of a party, is exempt from +the duties of his station, and has a right to insult and oppress his +fellow citizens? All the weaknesses of humanity are flattered and called +to the aid of this pernicious system of revolutionary ethics; and if +France yet continue in a state of civilization, it is because Providence +has not yet abandoned her to the influence of such a system. + +Taste is, I repeat it, as little a gainer by the revolution as morals. +The pieces which were best calculated to form and refine the minds of the +people, all abound with maxims of loyalty, with respect for religion, and +the subordinations of civil society. These are all prohibited; and are +replaced by fustian declamations, tending to promote anarchy and discord +--by vulgar and immoral farces, and insidious and flattering panegyrics +on the vices of low life. No drama can succeed that is not supported by +the faction; and this support is to be procured only by vilifying the +Throne, the Clergy, and Noblesse. This is a succedaneum for literary +merit, and those who disapprove are menaced into silence; while the +multitude, who do not judge but imitate, applaud with their leaders--and +thus all their ideas become vitiated, and imbibe the corruption of their +favourite amusement. + +I have dwelt on this subject longer than I intended; but as I would not +be supposed prejudiced nor precipitate in my assertions, I will, by the +first occasion, send you some of the most popular farces and tragedies: +you may then decide yourself upon the tendency; and, by comparing the +dispositions of the French before, and within, the last two years, you +may also determine whether or not my conclusions are warranted by fact. +Adieu.--Yours. + + + + +Arras. + +Our countrymen who visit France for the first time--their imaginations +filled with the epithets which the vanity of one nation has appropriated, +and the indulgence of the other sanctioned--are astonished to find this +"land of elegance," this refined people, extremely inferior to the +English in all the arts that minister to the comfort and accommodation of +life. They are surprized to feel themselves starved by the intrusion of +all the winds of heaven, or smothered by volumes of smoke--that no lock +will either open or shut--that the drawers are all immoveable--and that +neither chairs nor tables can be preserved in equilibrium. In vain do +they inquire for a thousand conveniences which to them seem +indispensible; they are not to be procured, or even their use is unknown: +till at length, after a residence in a score of houses, in all of which +they observe the same deficiencies, they begin to grow sceptical, to +doubt the pretended superiority of France, and, perhaps for the first +time, do justice to their own unassuming country. It must however, be +confessed, that if the chimnies smoke, they are usually surrounded by +marble--that the unstable chair is often covered with silk--and that if a +room be cold, it is plentifully decked with gilding, pictures, and +glasses.--In short, a French house is generally more showy than +convenient, and seldom conveys that idea of domestic comfort which +constitutes the luxury of an Englishman. + +I observe, that the most prevailing ornaments here are family portraits: +almost every dwelling, even among the lower kind of tradesmen, is peopled +with these ensigns of vanity; and the painters employed on these +occasions, however deficient in other requisites of their art, seem to +have an unfortunate knack at preserving likenesses. Heads powdered even +whiter than the originals, laced waistcoats, enormous lappets, and +countenances all ingeniously disposed so as to smile at each other, +encumber the wainscot, and distress the unlucky visitor, who is obliged +to bear testimony to the resemblance. When one sees whole rooms filled +with these figures, one cannot help reflecting on the goodness of +Providence, which thus distributes self-love, in proportion as it denies +those gifts that excite the admiration of others. + +You must not understand what I have said on the furniture of French +houses as applying to those of the nobility or people of extraordinary +fortunes, because they are enabled to add the conveniences of other +countries to the luxuries of their own. Yet even these, in my opinion, +have not the uniform elegance of an English habitation: there is always +some disparity between the workmanship and the materials--some mixture of +splendour and clumsiness, and a want of what the painters call keeping; +but the houses of the gentry, the lesser noblesse, and merchants, are, +for the most part, as I have described---abounding in silk, marble, +glasses, and pictures; but ill finished, dirty, and deficient in articles +of real use.--I should, however, notice, that genteel people are cleaner +here than in the interior parts of the kingdom. The floors are in +general of oak, or sometimes of brick; but they are always rubbed bright, +and have not that filthy appearance which so often disgusts one in French +houses. + +The heads of the lower classes of people are much disturbed by these new +principles of universal equality. We enquired of a man we saw near a +coach this morning if it was hired. "Monsieur--(quoth he--then checking +himself suddenly,)--no, I forgot, I ought not to say Monsieur, for they +tell me I am equal to any body in the world: yet, after all, I know not +well if this may be true; and as I have drunk out all I am worth, I +believe I had better go home and begin work again to-morrow." This new +disciple of equality had, indeed, all the appearance of having sacrificed +to the success of the cause, and was then recovering from a dream of +greatness which he told us had lasted two days. + +Since the day of taking the new oath we have met many equally elevated, +though less civil. Some are undoubtedly paid, but others will distress +their families for weeks by this celebration of their new discoveries, +and must, after all, like our intoxicated philosopher, be obliged to +return "to work again to-morrow." + +I must now bid you adieu--and, in doing so, naturally turn my thoughts to +that country where the rights of the people consist not of sterile and +metaphysic declarations, but of real defence and protection. May they +for ever remain uninterrupted by the devastating chimeras of their +neighbours; and if they seek reform, may it be moderate and permanent, +acceded to reason, and not extorted by violence!--Yours, &c. + + + + +September 2, 1792. + +We were so much alarmed at the theatre on Thursday, that I believe we +shall not venture again to amuse ourselves at the risk of a similar +occurrence. About the middle of the piece, a violent outcry began from +all parts of the house, and seemed to be directed against our box; and I +perceived Madame Duchene, the Presidente of the Jacobins, heading the +legions of Paradise with peculiar animation. You may imagine we were not +a little terrified. I anxiously examined the dress of myself and my +companions, and observing nothing that could offend the affected +simplicity of the times, prepared to quit the house. A friendly voice, +however, exerting itself above the clamour, informed us that the +offensive objects were a cloak and a shawl which hung over the front of +the box.--You will scarcely suppose such grossness possible among a +civilized people; but the fact is, our friends are of the proscribed +class, and we were insulted because in their society.--I have before +noticed, that the guards which were stationed in the theatre before the +revolution are now removed, and a municipal officer, made conspicuous by +his scarf, is placed in the middle front box, and, in case of any tumult, +is empowered to call in the military to his assistance. + +We have this morning been visiting two objects, which exhibit this +country in very different points of view--as the seat of wealth, and the +abode of poverty. The first is the abbey of St. Vaast, a most superb +pile, now inhabited by monks of various orders, but who are preparing to +quit it, in obedience to the late decrees. Nothing impresses one with a +stronger idea of the influence of the Clergy, than these splendid +edifices. We see them reared amidst the solitude of deserts, and in the +gaiety and misery of cities; and while they cheer the one and embellish +the other, they exhibit, in both, monuments of indefatigable labour and +immense wealth.--The facade of St. Vaast is simple and striking, and the +cloisters and every other part of the building are extremely handsome. +The library is supposed to be the finest in France, except the King's, +but is now under the seal of the nation. A young monk, who was our +Cicerone, told us he was sorry it was not in his power to show it. _"Et +nous, Monsieur, nous sommes faches aussi."_--["And we are not less sorry +than yourself, Sir."] + +Thus, with the aid of significant looks, and gestures of disapprobation, +an exchange of sentiments took place, without a single expression of +treasonable import: both parties understood perfectly well, that in +regretting that the library was inaccessible, each included all the +circumstances which attended it.--A new church was building in a style +worthy of the convent--I think, near four hundred feet long; but it was +discontinued at the suppression of the religious orders, and will now, of +course, never be finished. + +From this abode of learned case and pious indolence Mr. de ____ conducted +us to the Mont de Piete, a national institution for lending money to the +poor on pledges, (at a moderate interest,) which, if not redeemed within +a year, are sold by auction, and the overplus, if there remain any, after +deducting the interest, is given to the owner of the pledge. Thousands +of small packets are deposited here, which, to the eye of affluence, +might seem the very refuse of beggary itself.--I could not reflect +without an heart-ache, on the distress of the individual, thus driven to +relinquish his last covering, braving cold to satisfy hunger, and +accumulating wretchedness by momentary relief. I saw, in a lower room, +groupes of unfortunate beings, depriving themselves of different parts of +their apparel, and watching with solicitude the arbitrary valuations; +others exchanging some article of necessity for one of a still greater-- +some in a state of intoxication, uttering execrations of despair; and all +exhibiting a picture of human nature depraved and miserable.--While I was +viewing this scene, I recalled the magnificent building we had just left, +and my first emotions were those of regret and censure. When we only +feel, and have not leisure to reflect, we are indignant that vast sums +should be expended on sumptuous edifices, and that the poor should live +in vice and want; yet the erection of St. Vaast must have maintained +great numbers of industrious hands; and perhaps the revenues of the abbey +may not, under its new possessors, be so well employed. When the +offerings and the tributes to religion are the support of the industrious +poor, it is their best appropriation; and he who gives labour for a day, +is a more useful benefactor than he who maintains in idleness for two. +--I could not help wishing that the poor might no longer be tempted by +the facility of a resource, which perhaps, in most instances, only +increases their distress.--It is an injudicious expedient to palliate an +evil, which great national works, and the encouragement of industry and +manufactures, might eradicate.* + + * In times of public commotion people frequently send their valuable + effects to the Mont de Piete, not only as being secure by its + strength, but as it is respected by the people, who are interested + in its preservation. + +--With these reflections I concluded mental peace with the monks of St. +Vaast, and would, had it depended upon me, have readily comprized the +finishing their great church in the treaty. + +The Primary Assemblies have already taken place in this department. We +happened to enter a church while the young Robespierre was haranguing to +an audience, very little respectable either in numbers or appearance. +They were, however, sufficiently unanimous, and made up in noisy applause +what they wanted in other respects. If the electors and elected of other +departments be of the same complexion with those of Arras, the new +Assembly will not, in any respect, be preferable to the old one. I have +reproached many of the people of this place, who, from their education +and property, have a right to take an interest in the public affairs, +with thus suffering themselves to be represented by the most desperate +and worthless individuals of the town. Their defence is, that they are +insulted and overpowered if they attend the popular meetings, and by +electing _"les gueux et les scelerats pour deputes,"_* they send them to +Paris, and secure their own local tranquillity. + + * The scrubs and scoundrels for deputies. + +--The first of these assertions is but too true, yet I cannot but think +the second a very dangerous experiment. They remove these turbulent and +needy adventurers from the direction of a club to that of government, and +procure a partial relief by contributing to the general ruin. + +Paris is said to be in extreme fermentation, and we are in some anxiety +for our friend M. P____, who was to go there from Montmorency last week. +I shall not close my letter till I have heard from him. + + + + +September 4. + +I resume my pen after a sleepless night, and with an oppression of mind +not to be described. Paris is the scene of proscription and massacres. +The prisoners, the clergy, the noblesse, all that are supposed inimical +to public faction, or the objects of private revenge, are sacrificed +without mercy. We are here in the utmost terror and consternation--we +know not the end nor the extent of these horrors, and every one is +anxious for himself or his friends. Our society consists mostly of +females, and we do not venture out, but hover together like the fowls of +heaven, when warned by a vague yet instinctive dread of the approaching +storm. We tremble at the sound of voices in the street, and cry, with +the agitation of Macbeth, "there's knocking at the gate." I do not +indeed envy, but I most sincerely regret, the peace and safety of +England.--I have no courage to add more, but will enclose a hasty +translation of the letter we received from M. P____, by last night's +post. Humanity cannot comment upon it without shuddering.--Ever Yours, +&c. + + +"Rue St. Honore, Sept. 2, 1792. + +"In a moment like this, I should be easily excused a breach of promise in +not writing; yet when I recollect the apprehension which the kindness of +my amiable friends will feel on my account, I determine, even amidst the +danger and desolation that surround me, to relieve them.--Would to Heaven +I had nothing more alarming to communicate than my own situation! I may +indeed suffer by accident; but thousands of wretched victims are at this +moment marked for sacrifice, and are massacred with an execrable +imitation of rule and order: a ferocious and cruel multitude, headed by +chosen assassins, are attacking the prisons, forcing the houses of the +noblesse and priests, and, after a horrid mockery of judicial +condemnation, execute them on the spot. The tocsin is rung, alarm guns +are fired, the streets resound with fearful shrieks, and an undefinable +sensation of terror seizes on one's heart. I feel that I have committed +an imprudence in venturing to Paris; but the barriers are now shut, and I +must abide the event. I know not to what these proscriptions tend, or if +all who are not their advocates are to be their victims; but an +ungovernable rage animates the people: many of them have papers in their +hands that seem to direct them to their objects, to whom they hurry in +crouds with an eager and savage fury.--I have just been obliged to quit +my pen. A cart had stopped near my lodgings, and my ears were assailed +by the groans of anguish, and the shouts of frantic exultation. +Uncertain whether to descend or remain, I, after a moment's deliberation, +concluded it would be better to have shown myself than to have appeared +to avoid it, in case the people should enter the house, and therefore +went down with the best show of courage I could assume.--I will draw a +veil over the scene that presented itself--nature revolts, and my fair +friends would shudder at the detail. Suffice it to say, that I saw cars, +loaded with the dead and dying, and driven by their yet ensanguined +murderers; one of whom, in a tone of exultation, cried, 'Here is a +glorious day for France!' I endeavoured to assent, though with a +faultering voice, and, as soon as they were passed escaped to my room. +You may imagine I shall not easily recover the shock I received.--At this +moment they say, the enemy are retreating from Verdun. At any other time +this would have been desirable, but at present one knows not what to wish +for. Most probably, the report is only spread with the humane hope of +appeasing the mob. They have already twice attacked the Temple; and I +tremble lest this asylum of fallen majesty should ere morning, be +violated. + +"Adieu--I know not if the courier will be permitted to depart; but, as I +believe the streets are not more unsafe than the houses, I shall make an +attempt to send this. I will write again in a few days. If to-morrow +should prove calm, I shall be engaged in enquiring after the fate of my +friends.--I beg my respects to Mons. And Mad. de ____; and entreat you +all to be as tranquil as such circumstances will permit.--You may be +certain of hearing any news that can give you pleasure immediately. I +have the honour to be," &c. &c. + + + + +Arras, September, 1792. + +You will in future, I believe, find me but a dull correspondent. The +natural timidity of my disposition, added to the dread which a native of +England has of any violation of domestic security, renders me unfit for +the scenes I am engaged in. I am become stupid and melancholy, and my +letters will partake of the oppression of my mind. + +At Paris, the massacres at the prisons are now over, but those in the +streets and in private houses still continue. Scarcely a post arrives +that does not inform M. de ____ of some friend or acquaintance being +sacrificed. Heaven knows where this is to end! + +We had, for two days, notice that, pursuant to a decree of the Assembly, +commissioners were expected here at night, and that the tocsin would be +rung for every body to deliver up their arms. We did not dare go to bed +on either of these nights, but merely lay down in our robes de chambre, +without attempting to sleep. This dreaded business is, however, past. +Parties of the Jacobins paraded the streets yesterday morning, and +disarmed all they thought proper. I observed they had lists in their +hands, and only went to such houses as have an external appearance of +property. Mr. de ____, who has been in the service thirty years, +delivered his arms to a boy, who behaved to him with the utmost +insolence, whilst we sat trembling and almost senseless with fear the +whole time they remained in the house; and could I give you an idea of +their appearance, you would think my terror very justifiable. It is, +indeed, strange and alarming, that all who have property should be +deprived of the means of defending either that or their lives, at a +moment when Paris is giving an example of tumult and assassination to +every other part of the kingdom. Knowing no good reason for such +procedure, it is very natural to suspect a bad one.--I think, on many +accounts, we are more exposed here than at ____, and as soon as we can +procure horses we shall depart.--The following is the translation of our +last letter from Mr. P____. + +"I promised my kind friends to write as soon as I should have any thing +satisfactory to communicate: but, alas! I have no hope of being the +harbinger of any thing but circumstances of a very different tendency. +I can only give you details of the horrors I have already generally +described. Carnage has not yet ceased; and is only become more cool and +more discriminating. All the mild characteristics annihilated; and a +frantic cruelty, which is dignified with the name of patriotism, has +usurped ever faculty, and banished both reason and mercy. + +"Mons. ____, whom I have hitherto known by reputation, as an upright, and +even humane man, had a brother shut up, with a number of other priests, +at the Carmes; and, by his situation and connections, he has such +influence as might, if exerted, have preserved the latter. The +unfortunate brother knowing this, found means, while hourly expecting his +fate, to convey a note to Mr. ____, begging he would immediately release, +and procure him an asylum. The messenger returned with an answer, that +Mons. ____ had no relations in the enemies of his country! + +"A few hours after, the massacres at the Carmes took place.--One Panis,* +who is in the Comite de Surveillance, had, a few days previous to these +dreadful events, become, I know not on what occasion, the depositary of a +large sum of money belonging to a gentleman of his section. + + * Panis has since figured on various occasions. He is a member of + the Convention, and was openly accused of having been an accomplice + in the robbery of the Garde Meuble. + +"A secret and frivolous denunciation was made the pretext for throwing +the owner of the money into prison, where he remained till September, +when his friends, recollecting his danger, flew to the Committee and +applied for his discharge. Unfortunately, the only member of the +Committee present was Panis. He promised to take measures for an +immediate release.--Perhaps he kept his word, but the release was cruel +and final--the prison was attacked, and the victim heard of no more.--You +will not be surprized at such occurrences when I tell you that G____,* +whom you must remember to have heard of as a Jacobin at ____, is +President of the Committee above mentioned--yes, an assassin is now the +protector of the public safety, and the commune of Paris the patron of a +criminal who has merited the gibbet. + + * G____ was afterwards elected (doubtless by a recommendation of the + Jacobins) Deputy for the department of Finisterre, to which he was + sent Commissioner by the Convention. On account of some + unwarrantable proceedings, and of some words that escaped him, which + gave rise to a suspicion that he was privy to the robbery of the + Garde Meuble, he was arrested by the municipality of Quimper + Corentin, of which place he is a native. The Jacobins applied for + his discharge, and for the punishment of the municipality; but the + Convention, who at that time rarely took any decisive measures, + ordered G____ to be liberated, but evaded the other part of the + petition which tended to revenge him. The affair of the Garde + Meuble, was, however, again brought forward; but, most probably, + many of the members had reasons for not discussing too nearly the + accusation against G____; and those who were not interested in + suppressing it, were too weak or too timid to pursue it farther. + +"--I know not if we are yet arrived at the climax of woe and iniquity, +but Brissot, Condorcet, Rolland, &c. and all those whose principles you +have reprobated as violent and dangerous, will now form the moderate side +of the Assembly. Perhaps even those who are now the party most dreaded, +may one day give place to yet more desperate leaders, and become in their +turn our best alternative. What will then be the situation of France? +Who can reflect without trembling at the prospect?--It is not yet safe to +walk the streets decently dressed; and I have been obliged to supply +myself with trowsers, a jacket, coloured neckcloths, and coarse linen, +which I take care to soil before I venture out. + +"The Agrarian law is now the moral of Paris, and I had nearly lost my +life yesterday by tearing a placard written in support of it. I did it +imprudently, not supposing I was observed; and had not some people, known +as Jacobins, come up and interfered in my behalf, the consequence might +have been fatal.--It would be difficult, and even impossible, to attempt +a description of the manners of the people of Paris at this moment: the +licentiousness common to great cities is decency compared with what +prevails in this; it has features of a peculiar and striking description, +and the general expression is that of a monstrous union of opposite +vices. Alternately dissolute and cruel, gay and vindictive, the Parisian +vaunts amidst debauchery the triumph of assassination, and enlivens his +midnight orgies by recounting the sufferings of the massacred +aristocrates: women, whose profession it is to please, assume the _bonnet +rouge_ [red cap], and affect, as a means of seduction, an intrepid and +ferocious courage.--I cannot yet learn if Mons. S____'s sister be alive; +her situation about the Queen makes it too doubtful; but endeavour to +give him hope--many may have escaped whose fears still detain them in +concealment. People of the first rank now inhabit garrets and cellars, +and those who appear are disguised beyond recollection; so that I do not +despair of the safety of some, who are now thought to have perished.-- +I am, as you may suppose, in haste to leave this place, and I hope to +return to Montmorency tomorrow; but every body is soliciting passports. +The Hotel de Ville is besieged, and I have already attended two days +without success.--I beg my respectful homage to Monsieur and Madame de +____; and I have the honour to be, with esteem, the affectionate servant +of my friends in general. + +"L____." + + +You will read M. L____'s letter with all the grief and indignation we +have already felt, and I will make no comment on it, but to give you a +slight sketch of the history of Guermeur, whom he mentions as being +President of the Committee of Surveillance.--In the absence of a man, +whom he called his friend, he seduced his wife, and eloped with her: the +husband overtook them, and fell in the dispute which insued; when +Guermeur, to avoid being taken by the officers of justice, abandoned his +companion to her fate, and escaped alone. After a variety of adventures, +he at length enlisted himself as a grenadier in the regiment of Dillon. +With much assurance, and talents cultivated above the situation in which +he appeared, he became popular amongst his fellow-soldiers, and the +military impunity, which is one effect of the revolution, cast a veil +over his former guilt, or rather indeed enabled him to defy the +punishment annexed to it. When the regiment was quartered at ____, he +frequented and harangued at the Jacobin club, perverted the minds of the +soldiers by seditious addresses, till at length he was deemed qualified +to quit the character of a subordinate incendiary, and figure amongst the +assassins at Paris. He had hitherto, I believe, acted without pay, for +he was deeply in debt, and without money or clothes; but a few days +previous to the tenth of August, a leader of the Jacobins supplied him +with both, paid his debts, procured his discharge, and sent him to Paris. +What intermediate gradations he may have passed through, I know not; but +it is not difficult to imagine the services that have advanced him to his +present situation.--It would be unsafe to risk this letter by the post, +and I close it hastily to avail myself of a present conveyance.--I +remain, Yours, &c. + + + + +Arras, September 14, 1792. + +The camp of Maulde is broken up, and we deferred our journey, that we +might pass a day at Douay with M. de ____'s son. The road within some +miles of that place is covered with corn and forage, the immediate +environs are begun to be inundated, and every thing wears the appearance +of impending hostility. The town is so full of troops, that without the +interest of our military friends we should scarcely have procured a +lodging. All was bustle and confusion, the enemy are very near, and the +French are preparing to form a camp under the walls. Amidst all this, we +found it difficult to satisfy our curiosity in viewing the churches and +pictures: some of the former are shut, and the latter concealed; we +therefore contented ourselves with seeing the principal ones. + +The town-house is a very handsome building, where the Parliament was +holden previous to the revolution, and where all the business of the +department of the North is now transacted.--In the council-chamber, which +is very elegantly carved, was also a picture of the present King. They +were, at the very moment of our entrance, in the act of displacing it. +We asked the reason, and were told it was to be cut in pieces, and +portions sent to the different popular societies.--I know not if our +features betrayed the indignation we feared to express, but the man who +seemed to have directed this disposal of the portrait, told us we were +not English if we saw it with regret. I was not much delighted with such +a compliment to our country, and was glad to escape without farther +comment. + +The manners of the people seem every where much changed, and are becoming +gross and inhuman. While we were walking on the ramparts, I happened to +have occasion to take down an address, and with the paper and pencil in +my hand turned out of the direct path to observe a chapel on one side of +it. In a moment I was alarmed by the cries of my companions, and beheld +the musquet of the centinel pointed at me, and M. de ____ expostulating +with him. I am not certain if he supposed I was taking a plan of the +fortifications, and meant really more than a threat; but I was +sufficiently frightened, and shall not again approach a town wall with +pencils and paper. + +M. de ____ is one of the only six officers of his regiment who have not +emigrated. With an indignation heated by the works of modern +philosophers into an enthusiastic love of republican governments, and +irritated by the contempt and opposition he has met with from those of +this own class who entertain different principles, he is now become +almost a fanatic. What at first was only a political opinion is now a +religious tenet; and the moderate sectary has acquired the obstinacy of a +martyr, and, perhaps, the spirit of persecution. At the beginning of the +revolution, the necessity of deciding, a youthful ardour for liberty, and +the desire of preserving his fortune, probably determined him to become a +patriot; and pride and resentment have given stability to notions which +might otherwise have fluctuated with circumstances, or yielded to time. +This is but too general the case: the friends of rational reform, and the +supporters of the ancient monarchy, have too deeply offended each other +for pardon or confidence; and the country perhaps will be sacrificed by +the mutual desertions of those most concerned in its preservation. +Actuated only by selfishness and revenge, each party willingly consents +to the ruin of its opponents. The Clergy, already divided among +themselves, are abandoned by the Noblesse--the Noblesse are persecuted by +the commercial interest--and, in short, the only union is amongst the +Jacobins; that is, amongst a few weak persons who are deceived, and a +banditti who betray and profit by their "patriotism." + +I was led to these reflections by my conversation with Mr. de L____ and +his companions. I believe they do not approve of the present extremes, +yet they expressed themselves with the utmost virulence against the +aristocrates, and would hear neither of reconcilement nor palliation. On +the other hand, these dispositions were not altogether unprovoked--the +young men had been persecuted by their relations, and banished the +society of their acquaintance; and their political opinions had acted as +an universal proscription. There were even some against whom the doors +of the parental habitation were shut.--These party violences are +terrible; and I was happy to perceive that the reciprocal claims of duty +and affection were not diminished by them, either in M. de ____, or his +son. He, however, at first refused to come to A____, because he +suspected the patriotism of our society. I pleaded, as an inducement, +the beauty of Mad. G____, but he told me she was an aristocrate. It was +at length, however, determined, that he should dine with us last Sunday, +and that all visitors should be excluded. He was prevented coming by +being ordered out with a party the day we left him; and he has written to +us in high spirits, to say, that, besides fulfilling his object, he had +returned with fifty prisoners. + +We had a very narrow escape in coming home--the Hulans were at the +village of ____, an hour after we passed through it, and treated the poor +inhabitants, as they usually do, with great inhumanity.--Nothing has +alienated the minds of the people so much as the cruelties of these +troops--they plunder and ill treat all they encounter; and their avarice +is even less insatiable than their barbarity. How hard is it, that the +ambition of the Chiefs, and the wickedness of faction, should thus fall +upon the innocent cottager, who perhaps is equally a stranger to the +names of the one, and the principles of the other! + +The public papers will now inform you, that the French are at liberty to +obtain a divorce on almost any pretext, or even on no pretext at all, +except what many may think a very good one--mutual agreement. A lady of +our acquaintance here is become a republican in consequence of the +decree, and probably will very soon avail herself of it; but this +conduct, I conceive, will not be very general. + +Much has been said of the gallantry of the French ladies, and not +entirely without reason; yet, though sometimes inconstant wives, they +are, for the most part, faithful friends--they sacrifice the husband +without forsaking him, and their common interest is always promoted with +as much zeal as the most inviolable attachment could inspire. Mad. de +C____, whom we often meet in company, is the wife of an emigrant, and is +said not to be absolutely disconsolate at his absence; yet she is +indefatigable in her efforts to supply him with money: she even risks her +safety by her solicitude, and has just now prevailed on her favourite +admirer to hasten his departure for the frontiers, in order to convey a +sum she has with much difficulty been raising. Such instances are, I +believe, not very rare; and as a Frenchman usually prefers his interest +to every thing else, and is not quite so unaccommodating as an +Englishman, an amicable arrangement takes place, and one seldom hears of +a separation. + +The inhabitants of Arras, with all their patriotism, are extremely averse +from the assignats; and it is with great reluctance that they consent to +receive them at two-thirds of their nominal value. This discredit of the +paper money has been now two months at a stand, and its rise or fall will +be determined by the success of the campaign.--I bid you adieu for the +last time from hence. We have already exceeded the proposed length of +our visit, and shall set out for St. Omer to-morrow.--Yours. + + + + +St. Omer, September, 1792. + +I am confined to my room by a slight indisposition, and, instead of +accompanying my friends, have taken up my pen to inform you that we are +thus far safe on our journey.--Do not, because you are surrounded by a +protecting element, smile at the idea of travelling forty or fifty miles +in safety. The light troops of the Austrian army penetrate so far, that +none of the roads on the frontier are entirely free from danger. My +female companions were alarmed the whole day--the young for their +baggage, and the old for themselves. + +The country between this and Arras has the appearance of a garden +cultivated for the common use of its inhabitants, and has all the +fertility and beauty of which a flat surface is susceptible. Bethune and +Aire I should suppose strongly fortified. I did not fail, in passing +through the former, to recollect with veneration the faithful minister of +Henry the Fourth. The misfortunes of the descendant of Henry, whom +Sully* loved, and the state of the kingdom he so much cherished, made a +stronger impression on me than usual, and I mingled with the tribute of +respect a sentiment of indignation. + + * Maximilien de Bethune, Duc de Sully. + +What perverse and malignant influence can have excited the people either +to incur or to suffer their present situation? Were we not well +acquainted with the arts of factions, the activity of bad men, and the +effect of their union, I should be almost tempted to believe this change +in the French supernatural. Less than three years ago, the name of Henri +Quatre was not uttered without enthusiasm. The piece that transmitted +the slightest anecdotes of his life was certain of success--the air that +celebrated him was listened to with delight--and the decorations of +beauty, when associated with the idea of this gallant Monarch, became +more irresistible.* + + * At this time it was the prevailing fashion to call any new + inventions of female dress after his name, and to decorate the + ornamental parts of furniture with his resemblance. + +Yet Henry the Fourth is now a tyrant--his pictures and statues are +destroyed, and his memory is execrated!--Those who have reduced the +French to this are, doubtless, base and designing intriguers; yet I +cannot acquit the people, who are thus wrought on, of unfeelingness and +levity.--England has had its revolutions; but the names of Henry the +Fifth and Elizabeth were still revered: and the regal monuments, which +still exist, after all the vicissitudes of our political principles, +attest the mildness of the English republicans. + +The last days of our stay at Arras were embittered by the distress of our +neighbour and acquaintance, Madame de B____. She has lost two sons under +circumstances so affecting, that I think you will be interested in the +relation.--The two young men were in the army, and quartered at +Perpignan, at a time when some effort of counter-revolution was said to +be intended. One of them was arrested as being concerned, and the other +surrendered himself prisoner to accompany his brother.--When the High +Court at Orleans was instituted for trying state-prisoners, those of +Perpignan were ordered to be conducted there, and the two B____'s, +chained together, were taken with the rest. On their arrival at Orleans, +their gaoler had mislaid the key that unlocked their fetters, and, not +finding it immediately, the young men produced one, which answered the +purpose, and released themselves. The gaoler looked at them with +surprize, and asked why, with such a means in their power, they had not +escaped in the night, or on the road. They replied, because they were +not culpable, and had no reason for avoiding a trial that would manifest +their innocence. Their heroism was fatal. They were brought, by a +decree of the Convention, from Orleans to Versailles, (on their way to +Paris,) where they were met by the mob, and massacred. + +Their unfortunate mother is yet ignorant of their fate; but we left her +in a state little preferable to that which will be the effect of +certainty. She saw the decree for transporting the prisoners from +Orleans, and all accounts of the result have been carefully concealed +from her; yet her anxious and enquiring looks at all who approach her, +indicate but too well her suspicion of the truth.--Mons. de ____'s +situation is indescribable. Informed of the death of his sons, he is yet +obliged to conceal his sufferings, and wear an appearance of tranquillity +in the presence of his wife. Sometimes he escapes, when unable to +contain his emotions any longer, and remains at M. de ____'s till he +recovers himself. He takes no notice of the subject of his grief, and we +respect it too much to attempt to console him. The last time I asked him +after Madame de ____, he told me her spirits were something better, and, +added he, in a voice almost suffocated, "She is amusing herself with +working neckcloths for her sons!"--When you reflect that the massacres at +Paris took place on the second and third of September, and that the +decree was passed to bring the prisoners from Orleans (where they were in +safety) on the tenth, I can say nothing that will add to the horror of +this transaction, or to your detestation of its cause. Sixty-two, mostly +people of high rank, fell victims to this barbarous policy: they were +brought in a fort of covered waggons, and were murdered in heaps without +being taken out.* + + * Perhaps the reader will be pleased at a discovery, which it would + have been unsafe to mention when made, or in the course of this + correspondence. The two young men here alluded to arrived at + Versailles, chained together, with their fellow-prisoners. + Surprize, perhaps admiration, had diverted the gaoler's attention + from demanding the key that opened their padlock, and it was still + in their possession. On entering Versailles, and observing the + crowd preparing to attack them, they divested themselves of their + fetters, and of every other incumbrance. In a few moments their + carriages were surrounded, their companions at one end were already + murdered, and themselves slightly wounded; but the confusion + increasing, they darted amidst the croud, and were in a moment + undistinguishable. They were afterwards taken under the protection + of an humane magistrate, who concealed them for some time, and they + are now in perfect security. They were the only two of the whole + number that escaped. + + + + +September, 1792. + +We passed a country so barren and uninteresting yesterday, that even a +professional traveller could not have made a single page of it. It was, +in every thing, a perfect contrast to the rich plains of Artois-- +unfertile, neglected vallies and hills, miserable farms, still more +miserable cottages, and scarcely any appearance of population. The only +place where we could refresh the horses was a small house, over the door +of which was the pompous designation of Hotel d'Angleterre. I know not +if this be intended as a ridicule on our country, or as an attraction to +our countrymen, but I, however, found something besides the appellation +which reminded me of England, and which one does not often find in houses +of a better outside; for though the rooms were small, and only two in +number, they were very clean, and the hostess was neat and civil. The +Hotel d'Angleterre, indeed, was not luxuriously supplied, and the whole +of our repast was eggs and tea, which we had brought with us.--In the +next room to that we occupied were two prisoners chained, whom the +officers were conveying to Arras, for the purpose of better security. +The secret history of this business is worth relating, as it marks the +character of the moment, and the ascendancy which the Jacobins are daily +acquiring. + +These men were apprehended as smugglers, under circumstances of peculiar +atrocity, and committed to the gaol at ____. A few days after, a young +girl, of bad character, who has much influence at the club, made a +motion, that the people, in a body, should demand the release of the +prisoners. The motion was carried, and the Hotel de Ville assailed by a +formidable troop of sailors, fish-women, &c.--The municipality refused to +comply, the Garde Nationale was called out, and, on the mob persisting, +fired over their heads, wounded a few, and the rest dispersed of +themselves.--Now you must understand, the latent motive of all this was +two thousand livres promised to one of the Jacobin leaders, if he +succeeded in procuring the men their liberty.--I do not advance this +merely on conjecture. The fact is well known to the municipality; and +the decent part of it would willingly have expelled this man, who is one +of their members, but that they found themselves too weak to engage in a +serious quarrel with the Jacobins.--One cannot reflect, without +apprehension, that any society should exist which can oppose the +execution of the laws with impunity, or that a people, who are little +sensible of realities, should be thus abused by names. They suffer, with +unfeeling patience, a thousand enormities--yet blindly risk their +liberties and lives to promote the designs of an adventurer, because he +harangues at a club, and calls himself a patriot.--I have just received +advice that my friends have left Lausanne, and are on their way to Paris. +Our first plan of passing the winter there will be imprudent, if not +impracticable, and we have concluded to take a house for the winter six +months at Amiens, Chantilly, or some place which has the reputation of +being quiet. I have already ordered enquiries to be made, and shall set +out with Mrs. ____ in a day or two for Amiens. I may, perhaps, not write +till our return; but shall not cease to be, with great truth.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, 1792. + +The departement de la Somme has the reputation of being a little +aristocratic. I know not how far this be merited, but the people are +certainly not enthusiasts. The villages we passed on our road hither +were very different from those on the frontiers--we were hailed by no +popular sounds, no cries of Vive la nation! except from here and there +some ragged boy in a red cap, who, from habit, associated this salutation +with the appearance of a carriage. In every place where there are half a +dozen houses is planted an unthriving tree of liberty, which seems to +wither under the baneful influence of the _bonnet rouge_. [The red cap.] +This Jacobin attribute is made of materials to resist the weather, and +may last some time; but the trees of liberty, being planted unseasonably, +are already dead. I hope this will not prove emblematic, and that the +power of the Jacobins may not outlive the freedom of the people. + +The Convention begin their labours under disagreeable auspices. A +general terror seems to have seized on the Parisians, the roads are +covered with carriages, and the inns filled with travellers. A new +regulation has just taken place, apparently intended to check this +restless spirit. At Abbeville, though we arrived late and were fatigued, +we were taken to the municipality, our passports collated with our +persons, and at the inn we were obliged to insert in a book our names, +the place of our birth, from whence we came, and where we were going. +This, you will say, has more the features of a mature Inquisition, than a +new-born Republic; but the French have different notions of liberty from +yours, and take these things very quietly.--At Flixecourt we eat out of +pewter spoons, and the people told us, with much inquietude, that they +had sold their plate, in expectation of a decree of the Convention to +take it from them. This decree, however, has not passed, but the alarm +is universal, and does not imply any great confidence in the new +government. + +I have had much difficulty in executing my commission, and have at last +fixed upon a house, of which I fear my friends will not approve; but the +panic which depopulates Paris, the bombardment of Lisle, and the +tranquillity which has hitherto prevailed here, has filled the town, and +rendered every kind of habitation scarce, and extravagantly dear: for you +must remark, that though the Amienois are all aristocrates, yet when an +intimidated sufferer of the same party flies from Paris, and seeks an +asylum amongst them, they calculate with much exactitude what they +suppose necessity may compel him to give, and will not take a livre +less.--The rent of houses and lodgings, like the national funds, rises +and falls with the public distresses, and, like them, is an object of +speculation: several persons to whom we were addressed were extremely +indifferent about letting their houses, alledging as a reason, that if +the disorders of Paris should increase, they had no doubt of letting them +to much greater advantage. + +We were at the theatre last night--it was opened for the first time since +France has been declared a republic, and the Jacobins vociferated loudly +to have the fleur de lys, ad other regal emblems, effaced. Obedience was +no sooner promised to this command, than it was succeeded by another not +quite so easily complied with--they insisted on having the Marsellois +Hymn sung. In vain did the manager, with a ludicrous sort of terror, +declare, that there were none of his company who had any voice, or who +knew either the words of the music of the hymn in question. _"C'est egal, +il faut chanter,"_ ["No matter for that, they must sing."] resounded from +all the patriots in the house. At last, finding the thing impossible, +they agreed to a compromise; and one of the actors promised to sing it on +the morrow, as well as the trifling impediment of having no voice would +permit him.--You think your galleries despotic when they call for an +epilogue that is forgotten, and the actress who should speak it is +undrest; or when they insist upon enlivening the last acts of Jane Shore +with Roast Beef! What would you think if they would not dispense with a +hornpipe on the tight-rope by Mrs. Webb? Yet, bating the danger, I +assure you, the audience of Amiens was equally unreasonable. But liberty +at present seems to be in an undefined state; and until our rulers shall +have determined what it is, the matter will continue to be settled as it +is now--by each man usurping as large a portion of tyranny as his +situation will admit of. He who submits without repining to his +district, to his municipality, or even to the club, domineers at the +theatre, or exercises in the street a manual censure on aristocratic +apparel.* + + *It was common at this time to insult women in the streets if + dressed too well, or in colours the people chose to call + aristocratic. I was myself nearly thrown down for having on a straw + bonnet with green ribbons. + +Our embarrassment for small change is renewed: many of the communes who +had issued bills of five, ten, and fifteen sols, repayable in assignats, +are become bankrupts, which circumstance has thrown such a discredit on +all this kind of nominal money, that the bills of one town will not pass +at another. The original creation of these bills was so limited, that no +town had half the number requisite for the circulation of its +neighbourhood; and this decrease, with the distrust that arises from the +occasion of it, greatly adds to the general inconvenience. + +The retreat of the Prussian army excites more surprize than interest, and +the people talk of it with as much indifference as they would of an event +that had happened beyond the Ganges. The siege of Lisle takes off all +attention from the relief of Thionville--not on account of its +importance, but on account of its novelty.--I remain, Yours, &c. + + + + +Abbeville, September, 1792. + +We left Amiens early yesterday morning, but were so much delayed by the +number of volunteers on the road, that it was late before we reached +Abbeville. I was at first somewhat alarmed at finding ourselves +surrounded by so formidable a cortege; they however only exacted a +declaration of our political principles, and we purchased our safety by a +few smiles, and exclamations of vive la nation! There were some hundreds +of these recruits much under twenty; but the poor fellows, exhilarated by +their new uniform and large pay, were going gaily to decide their fate by +that hazard which puts youth and age on a level, and scatters with +indiscriminating hand the cypress and the laurel. + +At Abbeville all the former precautions were renewed--we underwent +another solemn identification of our persons at the Hotel de Ville, and +an abstract of our history was again enregistered at the inn. One would +really suppose that the town was under apprehensions of a siege, or, at +least, of the plague. My "paper face" was examined as suspiciously as +though I had had the appearance of a travestied Achilles; and M____'s, +which has as little expression as a Chinese painting, was elaborately +scrutinized by a Dogberry in spectacles, who, perhaps, fancied she had +the features of a female Machiavel. All this was done with an air of +importance sufficiently ludicrous, when contrasted with the object; but +we met with no incivility, and had nothing to complain of but a little +additional fatigue, and the delay of our dinner. + +We stopped to change horses at Bernay, and I soon perceived our landlady +was a very ardent patriot. In a room, to which we waded at great risk of +our clothes, was a representation of the siege of the Bastille, and +prints of half a dozen American Generals, headed by Mr. Thomas Paine. On +descending, we found out hostess exhibiting a still more forcible picture +of curiosity than Shakspeare's blacksmith. The half-demolished repast +was cooling on the table, whilst our postilion retailed the Gazette, and +the pigs and ducks were amicably grazing together on whatever the kitchen +produced. The affairs of the Prussians and Austrians were discussed with +entire unanimity, but when these politicians, as is often the case, came +to adjust their own particular account, the conference was much less +harmonious. The postilion offered a ten sols billet, which the landlady +refused: one persisted in its validity, the other in rejecting it--till, +at last, the patriotism of neither could endure this proof, and peace was +concluded by a joint execration of those who invented this fichu papier-- +"Sorry paper." + +At ____ we met our friend, Mad. de ____, with part of her family and an +immense quantity of baggage. I was both surprized and alarmed at such an +apparition, and found, on enquiry, that they thought themselves unsafe at +Arras, and were going to reside near M. de ____'s estate, where they were +better known. I really began to doubt the prudence of our establishing +ourselves here for the winter. Every one who has it in his power +endeavours to emigrate, even those who till now have been zealous +supporters of the revolution.--Distrust and apprehension seem to have +taken possession of every mind. Those who are in towns fly to the +country, while the inhabitant of the isolated chateau takes refuge in the +neighbouring town. Flocks of both aristocrates and patriots are +trembling and fluttering at the foreboding storm, yet prefer to abide its +fury, rather than seek shelter and defence together. I, however, flatter +myself, that the new government will not justify this fear; and as I am +certain my friends will not return to England at this season, I shall not +endeavour to intimidate or discourage them from their present +arrangement. We shall, at least, be enabled to form some idea of a +republican constitution, and I do not, on reflection, conceive that any +possible harm can happen to us. + + + + +October, 1792. + +I shall not date from this place again, intending to quit it as soon as +possible. It is disturbed by the crouds from the camps, which are broken +up, and the soldiers are extremely brutal and insolent. So much are the +people already familiarized with the unnatural depravity of manners that +begins to prevail, that the wife of the Colonel of a battalion now here +walks the streets in a red cap, with pistols at her girdle, boasting of +the numbers she has destroyed at the massacres in August and September. + +The Convention talk of the King's trial as a decided measure; yet no one +seems to admit even the possibility that such an act can be ever +intended. A few believe him culpable, many think him misled, and many +acquit him totally: but all agree, that any violation of his person would +be an atrocity disgraceful to the nation at large.--The fate of Princes +is often disastrous in proportion to their virtues. The vanity, +selfishness, and bigotry of Louis the Fourteenth were flattered while he +lived, and procured him the appellation of Great after his death. The +greatest military talents that France has given birth to seemed created +to earn laurels, not for themselves, but for the brow of that +vain-glorious Monarch. Industry and Science toiled but for his +gratification, and Genius, forgetting its dignity, willingly received +from his award the same it has since bestowed. + +Louis the Fifteenth, who corrupted the people by his example, and ruined +them by his expence, knew no diminution of the loyalty, whatever he might +of the affection, of his people, and ended his days in the practice of +the same vices, and surrounded by the same luxury, in which he had passed +them. + +Louis the Sixteenth, to whom scarcely his enemies ascribe any vices, for +its outrages against whom faction finds no excuse but in the facility of +his nature--whose devotion is at once exemplary and tolerant--who, in an +age of licentiousness, is remarkable for the simplicity of his manners-- +whose amusements were liberal or inoffensive--and whose concessions to +his people form a striking contrast with the exactions of his +predecessors.--Yes, the Monarch I have been describing, and, I think, not +partially, has been overwhelmed with sorrow and indignities--his person +has been degraded, that he might be despoiled of his crown, and perhaps +the sacrifice of his crown may be followed by that of his life. When we +thus see the punishment of guilt accumulated on the head of him who has +not participated in it, and vice triumph in the security that should seem +the lot of innocence, we can only adduce new motives to fortify ourselves +in this great truth of our religion--that the chastisement of the one, +and reward of the other, must be looked for beyond the inflictions or +enjoyments of our present existence. + +I do not often moralize on paper, but there are moments when one derives +one's best consolation from so moralizing; and this easy and simple +justification of Providence, which refers all that appears inconsistent +here to the retribution of a future state, is pointed out less as the +duty than the happiness of mankind. This single argument of religion +solves every difficulty, and leaves the mind in fortitude and peace; +whilst the pride of sceptical philosophy traces whole volumes, only to +establish the doubts, and nourish the despair, of its disciples. + +Adieu. I cannot conclude better than with these reflections, at a time +when disbelief is something too fashionable even amongst our +countrymen.--Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, October, 1792. + +I arrived here the day on which a ball was given to celebrate the return +of the volunteers who had gone to the assistance of Lisle.* + + *The bombardment of Lisle commenced on the twenty-ninth of + September, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and continued, almost + without interruption, until the sixth of October. Many of the + public buildings, and whole quarters of the town, were so much + damaged or destroyed, that the situation of the streets were + scarcely distinguishable. The houses which the fire obliged their + inhabitants to abandon, were pillaged by barbarians, more merciless + than the Austrians themselves. Yet, amidst these accumulated + horrors, the Lillois not only preserved their courage, but their + presence of mind: the rich incited and encouraged the poor; those + who were unable to assist with their labour, rewarded with their + wealth: the men were employed in endeavouring to extinguish the fire + of the buildings, or in preserving their effects; while women and + children snatched the opportunity of extinguishing the fuzes of the + bombs as soon as they fell, at which they became very daring and + dexterous. During the whole of this dreadful period, not one + murmur, not one proposition to surrender, was heard from any party. + + --The Convention decreed, amidst the wildest enthusiasm of applause, + that Lisle had deserved well of the country. + + --Forty-two thousand five hundred balls were fired, and the damages + were estimated at forty millions of livres. + +The French, indeed, never refuse to rejoice when they are ordered; but as +these festivities are not spontaneous effusions, but official ordinances, +and regulated with the same method as a tax or recruitment, they are of +course languid and uninteresting. The whole of their hilarity seems to +consist in the movement of the dance, in which they are by not means +animated; and I have seen, even among the common people, a cotillion +performed as gravely and as mechanically as the ceremonies of a Chinese +court.--I have always thought, with Sterne, that we were mistaken in +supposing the French a gay nation. It is true, they laugh much, have +great gesticulation, and are extravagantly fond of dancing: but the laugh +is the effect of habit, and not of a risible sensation; the gesture is +not the agitation of the mind operating upon the body, but constitutional +volatility; and their love of dancing is merely the effect of a happy +climate, (which, though mild, does not enervate,) and that love of action +which usually accompanies mental vacancy, when it is not counteracted by +heat, or other physical causes. + +I know such an opinion, if publicly avowed, would be combated as false +and singular; yet I appeal to those who have at all studied the French +character, not as travellers, but by a residence amongst them, for the +support of my opinion. Every one who understands the language, and has +mixed much in society, must have made the same observations.--See two +Frenchmen at a distance, and the vehemence of their action, and the +expression of their features, shall make you conclude they are discussing +some subject, which not only interests, but delights them. Enquire, and +you will find they were talking of the weather, or the price of a +waistcoat!--In England you would be tempted to call in a peace-officer at +the loud tone and menacing attitudes with which two people here very +amicably adjust a bargain for five livres.--In short, we mistake that for +a mental quality which, in fact, is but a corporeal one; and, though the +French may have many good and agreeable points of character, I do not +include gaiety among the number. + +I doubt very much of my friends will approve of their habitation. I +confess I am by no means satisfied with it myself; and, with regard to +pecuniary consideration, my engagement is not an advantageous one. +--Madame Dorval, of whom I have taken the house, is a character very +common in France, and over which I was little calculated to have the +ascendant. Officiously polite in her manners, and inflexibly attentive +to her interest, she seemingly acquiesces in every thing you propose. +You would even fancy she was solicitous to serve you; yet, after a +thousand gracious sentiments, and as many implied eulogiums on her +liberality and generosity, you find her return, with unrelenting +perseverance, to some paltry proposition, by which she is to gain a few +livres; and all this so civilly, so sentimentally, and so determinedly, +that you find yourself obliged to yield, and are duped without being +deceived. + +The lower class have here, as well as on your side of the water, the +custom of attributing to Ministers and Governments some connection with, +or controul over, the operations of nature. I remarked to a woman who +brings me fruit, that the grapes were bad and dear this year--_"Ah! mon +Dieu, oui, ils ne murrissent pas. Il me semble que tout va mal depuis +qu'on a invente la nation."_ ["Ah! Lord, they don't ripen now.--For my +part, I think nothing has gone well since the nation was first +invented."] + +I cannot, like the imitators of Sterne, translate a chapter of sentiment +from every incident that occurs, or from every physiognomy I encounter; +yet, in circumstances like the present, the mind, not usually observing, +is tempted to comment.--I was in a milliner's shop to-day, and took +notice on my entering, that its mistress was, whilst at her work, +learning the _Marseillois_ Hymn. [A patriotic air, at this time highly +popular.] Before I had concluded my purchase, an officer came in to +prepare her for the reception of four volunteers, whom she was to lodge +the two ensuing nights. She assented, indeed, very graciously, (for a +French woman never loses the command of her features,) but a moment +after, the Marseillois, which lay on the counter, was thrown aside in a +pet, and I dare say she will not resume her patriotic taste, nor be +reconciled to the revolution, until some days after the volunteers shall +have changed their quarters. + +This quartering of troops in private houses appears to me the most +grievous and impolitic of all taxes; it adds embarrassment to expence, +invades domestic comfort, and conveys such an idea of military +subjection, that I wonder any people ever submits to it, or any +government ever ventures to impose it. + +I know not if the English are conscious of their own importance at this +moment, but it is certain they are the centre of the hopes and fears of +all parties, I might say of all Europe. The aristocrates wait with +anxiety and solicitude a declaration of war, whilst their opponents +regard such an event as pregnant with distress, and even as the signal of +their ruin. The body of the people of both parties are averse from +increasing the number of their enemies; but as the Convention may be +directed by other motives than the public wish, it is impossible to form +any conclusion on the subject. I am, of course, desirous of peace, and +should be so from selfishness, if I were not from philanthropy, as a +cessation of it at this time would disconcert all our plans, and oblige +us to seek refuge at ____, which has just all that is necessary for our +happiness, except what is most desirable--a mild and dry atmosphere.-- +Yours, &c. + + + + +Amiens, November, 1792. + +The arrival of my friends has occasioned a short suspension of my +correspondence: but though I have been negligent, I assure you, my dear +brother, I have not been forgetful; and this temporary preference of the +ties of friendship to those of nature, will be excused, when you consider +our long separation. + +My intimacy with Mrs. D____ began when I first came to this country, and +at every subsequent visit to the continent it has been renewed and +increased into that rational kind of attachment, which your sex seldom +allow in ours, though you yourselves do not abound in examples of it. +Mrs. D____ is one of those characters which are oftener loved than +admired--more agreeable than handsome--good-natured, humane, and +unassuming--and with no mental pretensions beyond common sense tolerably +well cultivated. The shades of this portraiture are an extreme of +delicacy, bordering on fastidiousness--a trifle of hauteur, not in +manners, but disposition--and, perhaps, a tincture of affectation. These +foibles are, however, in a great degree, constitutional: she is more an +invalid than myself; and ill health naturally increases irritability, and +renders the mind less disposed to bear with inconveniencies; we avoid +company at first, through a sense of our infirmities, till this timidity +becomes habitual, and settles almost into aversion.--The valetudinarian, +who is obliged to fly the world, in time fancies herself above it, and +ends by supposing there is some superiority in differing from other +people. Mr. D____ is one of the best men existing--well bred and well +informed; yet, without its appearing to the common observer, he is of a +very singular and original turn of mind. He is most exceedingly nervous, +and this effect of his physical construction has rendered him so +susceptible, that he is continually agitated and hurt by circumstances +which others pass by unnoticed. In other respects he is a great lover of +exercise, fond of domestic life, reads much, and has an aversion from +bustle of all kind. + +The banishment of the Priests, which in many instances was attended with +circumstances of peculiar atrocity, has not yet produced those effects +which were expected from it, and which the promoters of the measure +employed as a pretext for its adoption. There are indeed now no masses +said but by the Constitutional Clergy; but as the people are usually as +ingenious in evading laws as legislators are in forming them, many +persons, instead of attending the churches, which they think profaned by +priests who have taken the oaths, flock to church-yards, chapels, or +other places, once appropriated to religious worship, but in disuse since +the revolution, and of course not violated by constitutional masses. The +cemetery of St. Denis, at Amiens, though large, is on Sundays and +holidays so crouded, that it is almost difficult to enter it. Here the +devotees flock in all weathers, say their mass, and return with the +double satisfaction of having preserved their allegiance to the Pope, and +risked persecution in a cause they deem meritorious. To say truth, it is +not very surprizing that numbers should be prejudiced against the +constitutional clergy. Many of them are, I doubt not, liberal and +well-meaning men, who have preferred peace and submission to theological +warfare, and who might not think themselves justified in opposing their +opinion to a national decision: yet are there also many of profligate +lives, who were never educated for the profession, and whom the +circumstances of the times have tempted to embrace it as a trade, which +offered subsistence without labour, and influence without wealth, and +which at once supplied a veil for licentiousness, and the means of +practising it. Such pastors, it must be confessed, have little claim to +the confidence or respect of the people; and that there are such, I do +not assert, but on the most credible information. I will only cite two +instances out of many within my own knowledge. + +P____n, bishop of St. Omer, was originally a priest of Arras, of vicious +character, and many of his ordinations have been such as might be +expected from such a patron.--A man of Arras, who was only known for his +vicious pursuits, and who had the reputation of having accelerated the +death of his wife by ill treatment, applied to P____n to marry him a +second time. The good Bishop, preferring the interest of his friend to +the salvation of his flock, advised him to relinquish the project of +taking a wife, and offered to give him a cure. The proposal was accepted +on the spot, and this pious associate of the Reverend P____n was +immediately invested with the direction of the consciences, and the care +of the morals, of an extensive parish. + +Acts of this nature, it is to be imagined, were pursued by censure and +ridicule; but the latter was not often more successful than on the +following occasion:--Two young men, whose persons were unknown to the +bishop, one day procured an audience, and requested he would recommend +them to some employment that would procure them the means of subsistence. +This was just a time when the numerous vacancies that had taken place +were not yet supplied, and many livings were unfilled for want of +candidates. The Bishop, who was unwilling that the nonjuring priests +should have the triumph of seeing their benefices remain vacant, fell +into the snare, and proposed their taking orders. The young men +expressed their joy at the offer; but, after looking confusedly on each +other, with some difficulty and diffidence, confessed their lives had +been such as to preclude them from the profession, which, but for this +impediment, would have satisfied them beyond their hopes. The Bishop +very complaisantly endeavoured to obviate thesse objections, while they +continued to accuse themselves of all the sins in the decalogue; but the +Prelate at length observing he had ordained many worse, the young men +smiled contemptuously, and, turning on their heels, replied, that if +priests were made of worse men than they had described themselves to be, +they begged to be excused from associating with such company. + +Dumouriez, Custine, Biron, Dillon, &c. are doing wonders, in spite of the +season; but the laurel is an ever-green, and these heroes gather it +equally among the snows of the Alps, and the fogs of Belgium. If we may +credit the French papers too, what they call the cause of liberty is not +less successfully propagated by the pen than the sword. England is said +to be on the eve of a revolution, and all its inhabitants, except the +King and Mr. Pitt, become Jacobins. If I did not believe "the wish was +father to the thought," I should read these assertions with much +inquietude, as I have not yet discovered the excellencies of a republican +form of government sufficiently to make me wish it substituted for our +own.--It should seem that the Temple of Liberty, as well as the Temple of +Virtue, is placed on an ascent, and that as many inflexions and +retrogradations occur in endeavouring to attain it. In the ardour of +reaching these difficult acclivities, a fall sometimes leaves us lower +than the situation we first set out from; or, to speak without a figure, +so much power is exercised by our leaders, and so much submission exacted +from the people, that the French are in danger of becoming habituated to +a despotism which almost sanctifies the errors of their ancient monarchy, +while they suppose themselves in the pursuit of a degree of freedom more +sublime and more absolute than has been enjoyed by any other nation.-- +Attempts at political as well as moral perfection, when carried beyond +the limits compatible with a social state, or the weakness of our +natures, are likely to end in a depravity which moderate governments and +rational ethics would have prevented. + +The debates of the Convention are violent and acrimonious. Robespierre +has been accused of aspiring to the Dictatorship, and his defence was by +no means calculated to exonerate him from the charge. All the chiefs +reproach each other with being the authors of the late massacres, and +each succeeds better in fixing the imputation on his neighbour, than in +removing it from himself. General reprobation, personal invectives, and +long speeches, are not wanting; but every thing which tends to +examination and enquiry is treated with much more delicacy and composure: +so that I fear these first legislators of the republic must, for the +present, be content with the reputation they have assigned each other, +and rank amongst those who have all the guilt, but want the courage, of +assassins. + +I subjoin an extract from a newspaper, which has lately appeared.* + + *Extract from _The Courier de l'Egalite,_ November, 1792: + + "There are discontented people who still venture to obtrude their + sentiments on the public. One of them, in a public print, thus + expresses himself-- + + 'I assert, that the newspapers are sold and devoted to falsehood. + At this price they purchase the liberty of appearing; and the + exclusive privilege they enjoy, as well as the contradictory and + lying assertions they all contain, prove the truth of what I + advance. They are all preachers of liberty, yet never was liberty + so shamefully outraged--of respect for property, and property was at + no time so little held sacred--of personal security, yet when were + there committed so many massacres? and, at the very moment I am + writing, new ones are premeditated. They call vehemently for + submission, and obedience to the laws, but the laws had never less + influence; and while our compliance with such as we are even + ignorant of is exacted, it is accounted a crime to execute those in + force. Every municipality has its own arbitrary code--every + battalion, every private soldier, exercises a sovereignty, a most + absolute despotism; and yet the Gazettes do not cease to boast the + excellence of such a government. They have, one and all, attributed + the massacres of the tenth of August and the second of September, + and the days following each, to a popular fermentation. The + monsters! they have been careful not to tell us, that each of these + horrid scenes (at the prisons, at La Force, at the Abbaye, &c. &c.) + was presided by municipal officers in their scarfs, who pointed out + the victims, and gave the signal for the assassination. It was + (continue the Journals) the error of an irritated people--and yet + their magistrates were at the head of it: it was a momentary error; + yet this error of a moment continued during six whole days of the + coolest reflection--it was only at the close of the seventh that + Petion made his appearance, and affected to persuade the people to + desist. The assassins left off only from fatigue, and at this + moment they are preparing to begin again. The Journals do not tell + us that the chief of these _Scelerats_ [We have no term in the + English language that conveys an adequate meaning for this word--it + seems to express the extreme of human wickedness and atrocity.] + employed subordinate assassins, whom they caused to be clandestinely + murdered in their turn, as though they hoped to destroy the proof of + their crime, and escape the vengeance that awaits them. But the + people themselves were accomplices in the deed, for the Garde + Nationale gave their assistance,'" &c. &c. + +In spite of the murder of so many journalists, and the destruction of the +printing-offices, it treats the September business so freely, that the +editor will doubtless soon be silenced. Admitting these accusations to +be unfounded, what ideas must the people have of their magistrates, when +they are credited? It is the prepossession of the hearer that gives +authenticity to fiction; and such atrocities would neither be imputed to, +nor believed of, men not already bad.--Yours, &c. + + + + +December, 1792. + +Dear Brother, + +All the public prints still continue strongly to insinuate, that England +is prepared for an insurrection, and Scotland already in actual +rebellion: but I know the character of our countrymen too well to be +persuaded that they have adopted new principles as easily as they would +adopt a new mode, or that the visionary anarchists of the French +government can have made many proselytes among an humane and rational +people. For many years we were content to let France remain the +arbitress of the lighter departments of taste: lately she has ceded this +province to us, and England has dictated with uncontested superiority. +This I cannot think very strange; for the eye in time becomes fatigued by +elaborate finery, and requires only the introduction of simple elegance +to be attracted by it. But if, while we export fashions to this country, +we should receive in exchange her republican systems, it would be a +strange revolution indeed; and I think, in such a commerce, we should be +far from finding the balance in our favour. I have, in fact, little +solicitude about these diurnal falsehoods, though I am not altogether +free from alarm as to their tendency. I cannot help suspecting it is to +influence the people to a belief that such dispositions exist in England +as preclude the danger of a war, in case it should be thought necessary +to sacrifice the King. + +I am more confirmed in this opinion, from the recent discovery, with the +circumstances attending it, of a secret iron chest at the Tuilleries. +The man who had been employed to construct this recess, informs the +minister, Rolland; who, instead of communicating the matter to the +Convention, as it was very natural he should do on an occasion of so much +importance, and requiring it to be opened in the presence of proper +witnesses, goes privately himself, takes the papers found into his own +possession, and then makes an application for a committee to examine +them. Under these suspicious and mysterious appearances, we are told +that many letters, &c. are found, which inculpate the King; and perhaps +the fate of this unfortunate Monarch is to be decided by evidence not +admissible with justice in the case of the obscurest malefactor. Yet +Rolland is the hero of a party who call him, par excellence, the virtuous +Rolland! Perhaps you will think, with me, that this epithet is +misapplied to a man who has risen, from an obscure situation to that of +first Minister, without being possessed of talents of that brilliant or +prominent class which sometimes force themselves into notice, without the +aid of wealth or the support of patronage. + +Rolland was inspector of manufactories in this place, and afterwards at +Lyons; and I do not go too far in advancing, that a man of very rigid +virtue could not, from such a station, have attained so suddenly the one +he now possesses. Virtue is of an unvarying and inflexible nature: it +disdains as much to be the flatterer of mobs, as the adulator of Princes: +yet how often must he, who rises so far above his equals, have stooped +below them? How often must he have sacrificed both his reason and his +principles? How often have yielded to the little, and opposed the great, +not from conviction, but interest? For in this the meanest of mankind +resemble the most exalted; he bestows not his confidence on him who +resists his will, nor subscribes to the advancement of one whom he does +not hope to influence.--I may almost venture to add, that more +dissimulation, meaner concessions, and more tortuous policy, are +requisite to become the idol of the people, than are practised to acquire +and preserve the favour of the most potent Monarch in Europe. The +French, however, do not argue in this manner, and Rolland is at present +very popular, and his popularity is said to be greatly supported by the +literary talents of his wife. + +I know not if you rightly understand these party distinctions among a set +of men whom you must regard as united in the common cause of establishing +a republic in France, but you have sometimes had occasion to remark in +England, that many may amicably concur in the accomplishment of a work, +who differ extremely about the participation of its advantages; and this +is already the case with the Convention. Those who at present possess +all the power, and are infinitely the strongest, are wits, moralists, and +philosophers by profession, having Brissot, Rolland, Petion, Concorcet, +&c. at their head; their opponents are adventurers of a more desperate +cast, who make up by violence what they want in numbers, and are led by +Robespierre, Danton, Chabot, &c. &c. The only distinction of these +parties is, I believe, that the first are vain and systematical +hypocrites, who have originally corrupted the minds of the people by +visionary and insidious doctrines, and now maintain their superiority by +artifice and intrigue: their opponents, equally wicked, and more daring, +justify that turpitude which the others seek to disguise, and appear +almost as bad as they are. The credulous people are duped by both; while +the cunning of the one, and the vehemence of the other, alternately +prevail.--But something too much of politics, as my design is in general +rather to mark their effect on the people, than to enter on more +immediate discussions. + +Having been at the Criminal Tribunal to-day, I now recollect that I have +never yet described to you the costume of the French Judges.--Perhaps +when I have before had occasion to speak of it, your imagination may have +glided to Westminster Hall, and depicted to you the scarlet robes and +voluminous wigs of its respectable magistrates: but if you would form an +idea of a magistrate here, you must bring your mind to the abstraction of +Crambo, and figure to yourself a Judge without either gown, wig, or any +of those venerable appendages. Nothing indeed can be more becoming or +gallant, than this judicial accoutrement--it is black, with a silk cloak +of the same colour, in the Spanish form, and a round hat, turned up +before, with a large plume of black feathers. This, when the magistrate +happens to be young, has a very theatrical and romantic appearance; but +when it is worn by a figure a little Esopian, or with a large bushy +perriwig, as I have sometimes seen it, the effect is still less awful; +and a stranger, on seeing such an apparition in the street, is tempted to +suppose it a period of jubilee, and that the inhabitants are in +masquerade. + +It is now the custom for all people to address each other by the +appellation of Citizen; and whether you are a citizen or not--whether you +inhabit Paris, or are a native of Peru--still it is an indication of +aristocracy, either to exact, or to use, any other title. This is all +congruous with the system of the day: the abuses are real, the reform is +imaginary. The people are flattered with sounds, while they are losing +in essentials. And the permission to apply the appellation of Citizen to +its members, is but a poor compensation for the despotism of a department +or a municipality. + +In vain are the people flattered with a chimerical equality--it cannot +exist in a civilized state, and if it could exist any where, it would not +be in France. The French are habituated to subordination--they naturally +look up to something superior--and when one class is degraded, it is only +to give place to another. + +--The pride of the noblesse is succeeded by the pride of the merchant-- +the influence of wealth is again realized by cheap purchases of the +national domains--the abandoned abbey becomes the delight of the opulent +trader, and replaces the demolished chateau of the feudal institution. +Full of the importance which the commercial interest is to acquire under +a republic, the wealthy man of business is easily reconciled to the +oppression of the superior classes, and enjoys, with great dignity, his +new elevation. The counting-house of a manufacturer of woollen cloth is +as inaccessible as the boudoir of a Marquis; while the flowered brocade +gown and well-powdered curls of the former offer a much more imposing +exterior than the chintz robe de chambre and dishevelled locks of the +more affable man of fashion. + +I have read, in some French author, a maxim to this effect:--"Act with +your friends as though they should one day be your enemies;" and the +existing government seems amply to have profited by the admonition of +their country-man: for notwithstanding they affirm, that all France +supports, and all England admires them, this does not prevent their +exercising a most vigilant inquisition over the inhabitants of both +countries.--It is already sagaciously hinted, that Mr. Thomas Paine may +be a spy, and every householder who receives a lodger or visitor, and +every proprietor who lets a house, is obliged to register the names of +those he entertains, or who are his tenants, and to become responsible +for their conduct. This is done at the municipality, and all who thus +venture to change their residence, of whatever age, sex, or condition, +must present themselves, and submit to an examination. The power of the +municipalities is indeed very great; and as they are chiefly selected +from the lower class of shop-keepers, you may conclude that their +authority is not exercised with much politeness or moderation. + +The timid or indolent inhabitant of London, whose head has been filled +with the Bastilles and police of the ancient government, and who would as +soon have ventured to Constantinople as to Paris, reads, in the debates +of the Convention, that France is now the freeest country in the world, +and that strangers from all corners of it flock to offer their adorations +in this new Temple of Liberty. Allured by these descriptions, he +resolves on the journey, willing, for once in his life, to enjoy a taste +of the blessing in sublimate, which he now learns has hitherto been +allowed him only in the gross element.--He experiences a thousand +impositions on landing with his baggage at Calais, but he submits to them +without murmuring, because his countrymen at Dover had, on his +embarkation, already kindly initiated him into this science of taxing the +inquisitive spirit of travellers. After inscribing his name, and +rewarding the custom-house officers for rummaging his portmanteau, he +determines to amuse himself with a walk about the town. The first +centinel he encounters stops him, because he has no cockade: he purchases +one at the next shop, (paying according to the exigency of the case,) and +is suffered to pass on. When he has settled his bill at the Auberge "a +l'Angloise," and emagines he has nothing to do but to pursue his journey, +he finds he has yet to procure himself a passport. He waits an hour and +an half for an officer, who at length appears, and with a rule in one +hand, and a pen in the other, begins to measure the height, and take an +inventory of the features of the astonished stranger. By the time this +ceremony is finished, the gates are shut, and he can proceed no farther, +till the morrow. He departs early, and is awakened twice on the road to +Boulogne to produce his passport: still, however, he keeps his temper, +concluding, that the new light has not yet made its way to the frontiers, +and that these troublesome precautions may be necessary near a port. He +continues his route, and, by degrees, becomes habituated to this regimen +of liberty; till, perhaps, on the second day, the validity of his +passport is disputed, the municipality who granted it have the reputation +of aristocracy, or the whole is informal, and he must be content to wait +while a messenger is dispatched to have it rectified, and the officers +establish the severity of their patriotism at the expence of the +stranger. + +Our traveller, at length, permitted to depart, feels his patience +wonderfully diminished, execrates the regulations of the coast, and the +ignorance of small towns, and determines to stop a few days and observe +the progress of freedom at Ameins. Being a large commercial place, he +here expects to behold all the happy effects of the new constitution; he +congratulates himself on travelling at a period when he can procure +information, and discuss his political opinions, unannoyed by fears of +state prisons, and spies of the police. His landlord, however, acquaints +him, that his appearance at the Town House cannot be dispensed with--he +attends three or four different hours of appointment, and is each time +sent away, (after waiting half an hour with the valets de ville in the +antichamber,) and told that the municipal officers are engaged. As an +Englishman, he has little relish for these subordinate sovereigns, and +difficult audiences--he hints at the next coffee-house that he had +imagined a stranger might have rested two days in a free country, without +being measured, and questioned, and without detailing his history, as +though he were suspected of desertion; and ventures on some implied +comparison between the ancient "Monsieur le Commandant," and the modern +"Citoyen Maire."--To his utter astonishment he finds, that though there +are no longer emissaries of the police, there are Jacobin informers; his +discourse is reported to the municipality, his business in the town +becomes the subject of conjecture, he is concluded to be _"un homme sans +aveu,"_ [One that can't give a good account of himself.] and arrested as +"suspect;" and it is not without the interference of the people to whom +he may have been recommended at Paris, that he is released, and enabled +to continue his journey. + +At Paris he lives in perpetual alarm. One night he is disturbed by a +visite domiciliaire, another by a riot--one day the people are in +insurrection for bread, and the next murdering each other at a public +festival; and our country-man, even after making every allowance for the +confusion of a recent change, thinks himself very fortunate if he reaches +England in safety, and will, for the rest of his life, be satisfied with +such a degree of liberty as is secured to him by the constitution of his +own country. + +You see I have no design of tempting you to pay us a visit; and, to speak +the truth, I think those who are in England will show their wisdom by +remaining there. Nothing but the state of Mrs. D____'s health, and her +dread of the sea at this time of the year, detains us; for every day +subtracts from my courage, and adds to my apprehensions. + +--Yours, &c. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Residence in France During the Years +1792, 1793, 1794 and 1795, Part I. 1792, by An English Lady + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RESIDENCE IN FRANCE, 1792 *** + +***** This file should be named 11992.txt or 11992.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/9/9/11992/ + +Produced by Mary Munarin and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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