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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/11545-0.txt b/11545-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2437c15 --- /dev/null +++ b/11545-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3915 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11545 *** + +[Illustration: PETER BROWN'S ARMS.] + +TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA; + +Commencing in the Year 1793, and Ending in 1797. With The Author's +Journals of his Two Voyages Across the Atlantic + + * * * * * + +BY WILLIAM PRIEST, Musician, +Late of the Theatres Philadelphia, Baltimore and Boston. + + * * * * * + +CAPPRICCIO con---- + + * * * * * + +LONDON: +Printed for J. Johnson, No. 72, St. Paul's Church-Yard + + * * * * * + +1802. + +Bryer, Printer, Bridewell Hospital, Bridge Street. + + +PREFACE. + +An elegant writer observes that a preface may be dispensed with in any +work, if the author (either from his humility of justice) think that his +style be calculated only to put his readers to sleep. Though I do not +think the publication of the following sheets will _materially_ affect the +price of opium, I cannot intrude this volume on the public without +informing them, what all my friends will vouch for the truth of, viz.-- +that on my return from America, in 1797, I wrote the work in its present +form _for their_ perusal; and, that conscious of my want of talent as a +writer, I resisted all their entreaties for its publication, till within +these three months. + +The public, I presume, will not be _wholly_ disappointed; the _extracts_ I +have made from _Jefferson_, _Belknap_, and other american writers, are +worthy their attention: _I_ have no other merit than having placed them in +a tolerable point of view. + +"The God of Truth, and all who know +me, will bear testimony that, from my +whole soul, I despise deceit, as I do all +silly claims to superior wisdom, and +infallibility, which so many writers, by +a thousand artifices, endeavour to make +their readers imagine they possess." + + + +CONTENTS. + + +Introduction + +JOURNAL--Gravesend--why so called--Deal--Falmouth--Pendennis castle--a +gale--a hymn--the gulph weed--sun set at sea--dolphins and flying fish-- +first account of the yellow fever--arrival in the Delaware--on shore in +the Jerseys--Woodbury--melancholy visit to Philadelphia--arrival at +Annapolis + +ANNAPOLIS--why so called--extract from the charter--situation--loss of the +trade--accounted for--Annapolitans partial to theatrical amusements-- +produce of Maryland--tobacco--wheat--new species of manure + +JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL--filial affection of the negroes--fried squirrels +and coffee--Baltimore--the mighty Susquana--intrepidity of a slave--how +rewarded--Wilmington--Brandywine--grist mills--the battle--Chester-- +arrival at Philadelphia + +TWO ANECDOTES--a gentleman blacksmith not ashamed of his origin--a high +sheriff doing his duty + +PHILADELPHIA--state of, in 1681--Penn's arrival in 1701--intended plan of +the city--not observed--situation--advantages of exports--entries in 1793-- +buildings how constructed--houses removed intire--new theatre--pleasure +carriages--removal of the state government to Lancaster + +MANNER OF LIVING OF THE PHILADELPHIANS--breakfast--dinner--supper--bad +effects of such diet--relishes in stile at an American tea-garden + +BACK SETTLER--arrives at his purchase--builds his huts--manner of clearing +the land--Indian corn--advantages of--the black and grey squirrels-- +attacked by the Indians--extract--he escapes the scalping knife--more +comfortably situated--an idle back settler--his manner of life--what he +calls liberty--joins the Indians at war with the states--the demisavage +copies only the black side of the Indian character + +PENNSYLVANIA PLANTER--enjoys a happy state of mediocrity between riches +and poverty--the children how disposed of--the boys--effect of the +religious education given to the girls not intirely eradicated even by a +brothel--a country sleighing match--another in Philadelphia in stile--a +fiddler a necessary apendage + +FROGS--two extracts--they sit croaking to the wonderment of strangers-- +land of enchantment--frog concert--how supported--treble--counter tenor-- +tenor--bass--fire-flies--night-hawks--probable effects on an enthusiastic +cockney + +JOURNEY TO LANCASTER--the Pioli--Wayne's surprise--appointed to the +command of the western army--Indian war--shocking effects of-- +misunderstanding between the Canadians and American citizens--accounted +for--French agents--the British government vindicated--Proceed on the +journey--charming prospects--beauties of the Susquana destroys the +navigation--arrival at Lancaster--rifle manufactory--uncommon shot of two +back woodsmen--Dutch schools--three concerts--two German sans culottes-- +extracts from the regulations of the Hanover dancing assembly--German and +Irish emigrants + +FEDERAL COINAGE not approved of by the people--the new scheme contrasted +with the old one--advantages of an even division by the decimal + +DELAWARE SHAD FISHERY--stupidity of the Anglo-Americans in giving English +names to animals peculiar to the new continent--length of the siens-- +greatest haul of shad on record--fanatical law of the Quakers injurious to +the fishery--sturgeon--extract from general Lincoln on the migration of +fishes + +JOURNEY TO BALTIMORE--water-stage--Newcastle--Glasgow--the Elk--bay of +Chesapeake--arrival at Baltimore--yellow fever + +BALTIMORE--situation--disadvantages of--the Dutch plan of canals not +adapted to a southern latitude--the former race-course in the centre of +the town--anecdote + +MANUFACTORIES--not the interest of the Americans to engage in them--why-- +American iron--its malleability--two patents granted by Congress-- +sawing-mills--ship-building + +SHOOTING AND FISHING--partridges--no game laws--woodcocks in August--the +American ortolan--back woodsmen--their game--wild turkey--squirrel +shooting--American fishing parties--how conducted + +INDIANS--genius for oratory, painting, and sculpture--their continence-- +extract--the Indian student--the splenetic Indian--his remedy--seen in +another point of view--the Indian orator--verses on an Indian burial-ground + + +SCHEME OF A RIFLE CORPS--of forming the corps--rifles--powder-- +accoutrements and dress--exercise + +SPECULATION--the United States--the land of--100 acres of land for a +dollar--flour--the mines--description of a coal-bank + +CLIMATE--Cooper on this subject not to be depended upon--quotation +from Jefferson--the N.W. wind not accounted for--Volney--his intended +investigation + +WHITE SLAVE TRADE--mortality on board a white Guineaman from Ireland-- +Hibernian and German societies--the trade not allowed in New England--a +German flesh-butcher sells his countrymen at Philadelphia during the fatal +yellow fever of 1793 + +JOURNEY TO BOSTON--Pennsylvania the garden of the United States-- +Bristol--Trentown--New Brunswick--New York--arrival in Yankee Land--land +speculators harangue--interrupted--arrival at Boston--P.S.--dramatic +mania--detestation of the primitive Bostonians to theatricals--are first +introduced as moral lectures--the theatrical opposition + +BATTLE OF BUNKER'S HILL--inscription from a monument on the scene of +action--anecdotes of Cox, the celebrated bridge-architect--connects Boston +with the Continent--goes to Ireland, where he builds seven bridges + +BOSTON--situation--West Boston--advantages of the harbour--the long +wharf--new theatre--university of Cambridge--new bridge a mile in length-- +Irish market + +BOSTONIAN FIRE ALARM--amateur firemen--negro incendiaries--good effects of +their villainy + +FANATICISM--Brownists--intolerance proved from their own writers-- +rebellion against parents made a capital crime--smoaking tobacco and +drinking healths forbidden--proclamation against wearing long hair-- +persecution of the Quakers--Penn's retaliation--poetry + +NEGRO SLAVERY--state of in the Southern, Middle, and New England Slates-- +abolition society--extract from Jefferson's Virginia + +YELLOW FEVER--a new disorder--first imported from the coast of Guinea to +the West Indies in 1792--extract from Dr. Rush--a disorder fatal only to +one race of men not new--plague among the red men--how accounted for by +the fanatics--not to the satisfaction of a philosopher--age of the world +proved to be 36,960 years from the falls of Niagara + +AMERICAN FISHERY ON THE BANKS OK NEWFOUNDLAND--extract from Dr. Belknap-- +dumb fish--how cured--merchantable--Jamaica fish--former and present state +of the fishery + +NEW ENGLAND STATES COMPARED WITH THOSE OF THE SOUTH--beauty of the women-- +accounted for--general knowledge of the inhabitants--free schools--how +supported--difference of climate + +VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--journal--severe gale at N.E.--the vessel encrusted with +ice--stand to the southward--the gulph stream--another gale--misfortunes-- +arrival at Dover--conclusion + + +_ERRATA._ + +P. 11, 1.8, for _plantation_, read _plantations_. + + 32, 1.5 and 6, are a note having reference to p. 28, 1.11. + + 71, 1.5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, are a note having reference to + p. 68, 1.4. + + 131, 1.6, for _freeing_, read _treeing_. + + 146, the asterisk placed at the word _vessel_ in the 13th line, + should be placed at the word _Newcastle_ in the 15th line. + + + +*TRAVELS IN AMERICA.* + + * * * * * + +_London, May 7th, 1797._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Since my return, my friends have made a thousand inquiries respecting the +state of America. I do not know how I can inform them of my sentiments on +that subject better, than by having the rough draught I preserved of the +letters I wrote to you from that country fairly copied for their use. If, +like you, they are _really_ my friends, they will take the will for the +deed. The _truth_ of my information, and my _wish_ to contribute to their +amusement, will be a sufficient apology for the many imperfections they +will meet with, in the desultory epistles of + +Yours very sincerely. + + +_Annapolis, December 1st, 1793._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The enclosed extracts from my journal will I hope convince you, I have not +_entirely_ forgot my promise at parting. When at Philadelphia I delivered +your letters to----. Believe me + +Yours very sincerely. + + * * * * * + + +JOURNAL. + +_Gravesend, on board the George Barclay,_ + +_31st of July, 1793._ + +Arrived onboard at 2 this afternoon, with an intention of sailing to +Philadelphia: Gravesend is so called from it's being _the end of a +sailors grave_, as those who die on a voyage after passing the fort are +thrown over board. + + +_August 1st._ + +Got under weigh with a light breeze at S.W., which not being sufficient to +stem the returning tide, we dropped out anchor again off the Nore light. + +_Aug. 2nd_.--Weighed anchor with the wind at S.E., and on the morning +of the 3rd; off Deal, sent a boat on shore, which soon returned with a +supply of meat, water, sheep, poultry gin, and gingerbread; dismissed our +pilot, and soon after doubted the South Foreland; the prospect of Dover +and the adjacent coast delightful. + +_Aug 8th_.--Beating to windward with a fresh breeze off the Lizard; +finding it impossible to clear the land, put about, and by three in the +afternoon were safe moored in Falmouth harbour. Went on shore; the lower +order of the inhabitants chaunt, or rather speak in recitative, a strange +dialect, in which I could distinguish several English words. + +Took a walk to Pendennis castle, which protects the West entrance of the +harbour; found it garrisoned by a party of invalides, who informed me they +had not two nights in bed to one up; hard duty after twenty years +servitude! + +_Aug. 9th_.--Dined on john dory, which I cannot think equal either to +turbot or sole. Falmouth has the best fish market in England: I am +informed, in the course of the year, they have upward of fifty different +species for sale, on very moderate terms. + +_Aug. 15th._--Weighed anchor, and having a good breeze at N.E., we +were soon clear of the land. On the evening of the 16th came on a smart +breeze at S.W.; at 2 A.M. the wind changed to W.N.W. and _blew a hard +gale_, which split our jib, and at last obliged us to lie too, under +our courses: shipped some very heavy seas over our quarter, which drowned +three parts of our stock of geese and other poultry; the baggage of near +fifty passengers, for want of being properly lashed, was dashing about the +steerage; which, with the shrieks of the women, heaving of the vessel, +rattling of the wind, and all the _et cetera_ of a storm, was +dreadful indeed. + +_Aug. 18th_.--Wind N.W. moderate; the morning delightful; appeared +doubly so, contrasted with the horrours of the night. + +_Aug. 31st_.--Fresh breeze at S.W. increasing to a hard gale, reduced +us once more to our courses: at 8 P.M. calm, with a very heavy swell. + +_Sunday 1st September._ + +Pleasant breeze at N.N.E. The following hymn was written by Mr. Harwood, +for this morning's service. + +HYMN. + +I. + +Father of Heav'n, to thee we raise + (Mark'd by thy kind peculiar care,) +Our songs of thankfulness and praise, + To thee ascends the grateful pray'r. + +II. + +Thou didst direct the gentlest breath, + That o'er the sleeping waters stole; +Thine is the dreadful voice of death, + In which thy angry thunders roll. + +III. + +Father of all, 'tis thine to give, + Not what our erring pray'r demands; +With joy thy blessings we receive, + And bow submissive 'neath thy hand. + +_Sept. 7th_.--First appearance of the gulf-weed. The trade wind, between +the Equator and the extent of the northern Tropic, setting from the +eastward, forces the water against the islands, and at length into the +gulf of Mexico where it meets with an uniform opposition from the +main, causing a strong current to the N.E., or points somewhat in that +direction. This stream is so violent as to tear up the sea weeds in the +gulf, and bear them as far to the north as latitude 44: the stream is soon +after absorbed in the Western ocean; but causes certain counter currents, +which, for want of being properly allowed for by mariners, have been the +causes of many shipwrecks. + +_Sept. 8th_.--Fine morning; wind at W.S.W. A beautiful dolphin struck at +an artificial flying fish, hanging at our bow-sprit; the hook breaking, he +escaped;--continued playing round our bows for some time, and struck at +several flying fish; but we could not again tempt him with the artificial +bait. + +_Mem_. To read this lesson once a month. + +_Sept. 9th_.--Calm and fog, several flocks of wild fowl. Suppose ourselves +near the banks of Newfoundland. Thermometer sunk 18 degrees since +yesterday. + +_Sept. 10th_.--Pleasant morning, having run to the S.W. during the +night: no sign of the banks. A land bird, of the thrush kind, came and +settled on our main yard; seemed quite exhausted; fell upon the deck, and +was taken up by the cabin boy. The poor creature must have been driven off +the coast of America in a violent gale at N.W., the distance from any land +being upwards of a thousand miles; no other circumstance could account for +it's flying so far. + +_Sept. 19th_.--Wind at N.N.W. very moderate;--the afternoon calm. The +sun set this evening with uncommon beauty, that glorious luminary was +surrounded with clouds of a vivid yellow, green, and red; strongly shaded +with black half the extent of the horizon. The moon at the same time +rising to the east-ward, with a cool and faint sky, formed a strong and +beautiful contrast. + +_Sept. 21st_.--Wind S. with rain. Caught four dolphins, which afforded us +a most delicious repast: in the paunch of one was found a dodon, or +globe-fish; the sailors call it a parrot-fish, from its having a beak +exactly resembling that bird.--At 9 A.M. spoke with the Queen Charlotte of +London, bound to Bristol, out ten days from Baltimore; the captain's +account of the longitude 67. Our joy in being so near the land was of +short continuance; for, in one hour after, we spoke with the Union, eight +days from Philadelphia. The captain informed us, there was a sort of +plague in that city, which carries off great numbers, and that ten +thousand of the inhabitants had fled to the country, to avoid the +infection. + +_Sept. 24th_.--Soundings at 60 fathom: lay to all night. + +_Sept. 25th_.--Woke with the cry of "Land." At 10 A.M. we took a +pilot on board: he informed us the disorder at Philadelphia is the yellow +fever, imported in a french schooner from the West Indies; some of the +passengers of this vessel died of this fatal disorder, at a lodging-house +in Water-street, and communicated the infection to the family. It is now +spreading rapidly through the city, in all directions. The faculty, so far +from being able to cure this disorder, have, in several instances, fallen +victims to it's fury. Within this few days, a Dr. Rush has discovered this +disorder is _not_ the yellow fever of the West Indies and has applied +an opposite mode of cure by copious bleedings, mercurial medicines, &c. +with some success. What is truly extraordinary, the infection does not +affect _people of colour!_ + +_Sept. 28th._--Came to an anchor off Glocester Point, five miles +below Philadelphia: the vessel proceeds no further at present, as all +intercourse with the city is cut off, and business at a stand. + +_October 1st_. + +Brought my baggage on shore, and arrived, at four in the afternoon, at +Woodbury, the county town of Glocester, in the state of West Jersey. With +some difficulty I procured a lodging within half a mile of the town. +Woodbury consists of about fifty well built houses, chiefly inhabited by +quakers, and other dissenters of the most rigid kind; so very primitive +are they in their appearance, that a barber cannot make a living among +them. + +_Oct. 13th_.--Spent the last ten days in shooting, and rambling about +the woods. The face of the country is exactly that of an immense forest, +entirely covered with wood, except the plantation cleared by the settlers. +The land sandy, and by no means of a good quality; the chief produce +maize, or indian corn. I counted the increase of _one_ stalk with +three ears; the amount of the grains were upward of _one thousand two +hundred_. + +_Oct. 16th_.--I believe the Americans conceive their woods to be +inexhaustible. My landlord this day cut down thirty-two young cedars to +make a hog-pen. A settler informs me, he raised a gum tree from the seed, +which, in sixteen years, measured twenty inches diameter, three feet from +it's base. He tells, me they have ten species of oak; viz, white, black, +red, spanish, turkey, chesnut, ground, water, barren, and live oak. The +white, turkey, and chesnut are used for ship-timber; the acorn of the +latter very superiour in size to any other. Red oak is chiefly used for +pipe-staves, and exported to most parts of Europe, and the West Indies. +Black oak is a dry wood, and easily splits; is chiefly used for the rails +and fences of their enclosures. Ground oak is bushy, and seldom exceeds +six feet in height; it bears a small acorn of a very superiour flavour, +which is the chief food of the deer, and sheep, who run wild in the woods. +Water and barren oak are small and bushy, and only used for firing. Live +oak is _said_ to be very superiour to all the rest, and the best +_ship-timber_ in the world. I am informed it is a sort of evergreen, +seldom met with north of the Carolinas. + +_Oct. 26th_.--Went to Philadelphia.--After crossing the Delaware, I found +the land very different from the Jersey shore; a fine stiff black soil, +the clover growing spontaneously. The city exhibited a most melancholy +spectacle; most of the houses and stores shut up, and grass growing in +many of the streets; what few _white_ inhabitants I met with had a most +dejected appearance. The disorder has been most favourable to the softer +sex; women with child, and those above and under a certain age, were in +general free from the infection: but so fatal has it proved to the other +sex, that, in Apple-tree-alley, which does not exceed fifty yards in +length, there are upwards of sixty widows within these two months. The +total loss on this melancholy occasion already exceeds four thousand, +nearly one tenth of the inhabitants! Returning to Woodbury, I met with a +quaker, who informed me of the _cause_ of the infectious disorder in the +Great City: "_It is_ a judgment on the inhabitants for their sins, +insomuch that they sent to England for a number of play-actors, singers, +and _musicians_, who were _actually arrived_; and as a just judgment on +the Philadelphians for encouraging these _children of iniquity_, they were +now afflicted with the yellow fever." I told him, that more likely the +sins of the _quakers_ had drawn down this judgment on the city _of +brotherly love_, and that it was now scourged for _their_ hypocrisy, +lying, canting, and other _manifold iniquities_. + +_Oct. 27th_.--Very cold wind at N.W. In the evening snow. + +_Oct. 29th_.--Favourable accounts from Philadelphia: the late cold +weather has entirely stopped the progress of the disorder. + +_November 26th_. + +Set out for Annapolis, and arrived there in health, the 29th, at five in +the afternoon. + + * * * * * + +_Annapolis, 17th December, 1793._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The bay of Chesapeak is one of the largest in the world. From it's +entrance, between capes Henry and Charles, to the mouth of the Susquana, +which forms the head of the bay, the distance is two hundred and eighty +miles, through which great extent of water the tide ebbs and flows. This +bay receives into it's bosom the following rivers; viz. the Patomac, the +Rappahanock, the Patapsico, the York, the James, the Severn, and the Elk, +beside innumerable creeks, and small streams. On an inlet from this bay, +about two hundred miles from it's entrance from the Atlantic, stands +Annapolis, the capital of the state of Maryland, so called in honour of +queen Anne, as appears from the following extract from their charter:-- + +"Anne, by the grace of God, queen of Great Britain, &c.... + +"To all, and singular, our faithful subjects within our province of +Maryland, greeting.... Whereas there is a pleasant and commodious place +for trade ... laid out for a town, and port, and called Annapolis, in +honour of us." + +This city was intended for the emporium of the province; and surely no +spot ever _seemed_ better calculated for a town of trade and commerce. Far +to the south, and in one of the most pleasant and healthy situations in +America; as the seat of government, being the greatest, and indeed then +_only_ mercantile town in the province; the bay of Chesapeak, and adjacent +rivers, wafting the tobacco and other produce of the country to this mart +at a trifling expense; a harbour where ships might ride at anchor in +perfect security, and where wharfs, with sufficient depth of water for a +vessel of eight hundred tons, might be formed with very little trouble: +but unfortunately these advantages were rendered abortive by the bite of a +small insect; the worms are so troublesome in these waters, that a vessel +lying in this harbour during the summer months will be as full of holes as +a honey-comb. Baltimore, a town on a similar inlet from the bay, about +thirty miles hence, being free from this plague, (by having a great +proportion of fresh water from the Patapsico in it's harbour) has drawn +all the trade from the _capital_: the Annapolians have now but _one_ +square-rigged vessel belonging to their port, while their rivals have many +hundreds, and drive a brisk trade to the four quarters of the globe. + +Annapolis is whimsically laid out, the streets verging from each other, +like rays from a centre. It is still the seat of government; and it's +state-house is by much the best building I have seen in America. This +little city is now the retreat of some of the best families in the +state. The inhabitants in general are passionately fond of theatrical +entertainments, and received us with a degree of kindness and hospitality +which claims our warmest acknowledgments. I spend my time here very +agreeably. The politeness, ease, and conviviality of the Annapolians form +a strong and pleasing contrast to the behaviour of the stiff, gloomy and +unsocial bigots I was lately surrounded with in the Jerseys. Next to +Virginia, this state was the most famous for tobacco-plantations; but the +people now find the culture of wheat more profitable, as well as less +injurious to the soil. No plant impoverishes the earth so much by it's +growth as tobacco; many plantations, owing to successive crops of this +_weed_, are what is here called _worn out_; formerly, when their land was +in this state, instead of endeavouring to bring it round by a few fallow +years and manure, as in England, they immediately cleared a fresh tract. +They now begin to use manure, and have discovered a very extraordinary +kind; viz. antediluvian oyster-shells, large beds of which are found +a few feet beneath the surface of the earth in several parts of the +state[Footnote: See Bartram's Account of a similar Bed in Georgia, +page 213.]: these being laid on the land, are, by the effect of the +air, crumbled into dust in a few days, and fertilize the earth in an +astonishing degree.--Farewell.--Conclude me + +Yours very sincerely, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, 27th February, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the fourth instant I left Annapolis on my way to this city. After +travelling eight miles, we passed through a long and dreary wood; here we +met two negroes conveying a coffin on a sort of sledge. On inquiry, one of +them informed us, the coffin contained the corpse of his mother; that on +the death of his old master, his parents were sold to different planters, +which his father took so much to heart, that he died soon after; his +mother only survived him about five months; and they were now complying +with her last request, which was, to be carried to a plantation about +eight miles thence, and there buried with her husband. There seemed a +great degree of dejection in the poor fellow's countenance; and I could +not help telling him, by way of consolation, that his father and mother +were gone to a better place, where there was no distinction of colour, and +where no white man would dare again to part them; but as _words_ are +_wind_, we agreed to administer some more _solid_ consolation, which the +black man received with a look of gratitude, then cast his eye towards his +mother's corpse, and shed a silent tear. Why was not _Sterne_ present at +this scene? + +I slept at an inn, about twenty miles from Annapolis, where we supped in +the American fashion on fried squirrels and coffee, the former excellent. + +_Feb. 5th_.--Arrived at Baltimore, and hired a caravan with four +horses, which is here called a stage: the same afternoon we arrived at the +Susquana. This noble river, which is here about a mile and a quarter wide, +was frozen hard. Our _advanced guard_ crossed the day before, in a +ferry boat: this circumstance will give you some idea of the severity of +the cold in this climate. A negro slave, belonging to the ferry, undertook +to drive our stage over the river for two dollars, which his _master put +into his pocket_, and ordered _Sambo_ to proceed; the fellow drove +boldly, and was across in a few minutes, the ice cracking most horribly +all the way. I suppose I need not inform you, we were _not_ in the +carriage. + +On the evening of the 7th we slept at Wilmington, a pleasantly situate +town on the banks of a creek, which joins the Delaware, about thirty miles +below Philadelphia. There are about thirty square-rigged vessels, beside +sloops, and schooners, belonging to this port, which was originally a +danish settlement. + +The next morning I walked to Brandywine, to see the grist mills, which are +said to be the best in the United States. About five miles from this +village was fought the battle of Brandywine. This was Washington's last +effort to stop general Howe's progress, and save Philadelphia. The +royal army being victorious, they got possession of that city without +opposition. General Washington, after rallying his troops, took a very +advantageous situation on a chain of hills, a few miles west of the +British army. + +We dined at Chester. This little town is situated on the Delaware, and is +the same to Philadelphia that Gravesend is to London. Ships outward bound +here receive their passengers, &c. &c. + +At four the same day, arrived in this city, distant from Annapolis one +hundred and forty one miles, and from Baltimore one hundred and eleven. +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 1st, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I perfectly agree with you, that the form of government in a great measure +_affects_, or rather _forms_ the manners, and way of thinking of +the people; but must decline answering the queries in your last, at least +for the present. I have not been long enough in these states to draw any +fair conclusions on these subjects; but that you may not be wholly +disappointed, I send you two anecdotes, on which you may depend. + +Peter Brown, a blacksmith of this city, having made his fortune, set up +his coach; but so far from being ashamed of the means by which he acquired +his riches, he caused a large _anvil_ to be painted on each pannel of +his carriage, with two naked arms in the act of striking. The motto, +"_By this I got ye_." + +Benjamin Whitall, high sheriff for the county of Gloster, West Jersey, +being obliged soon after his appointment to attend an execution, not +approving of Jack Ketch's clumsy method of _finishing the law_, +fairly tucked up the next criminal _himself_. Such behaviour in +Germany would have branded him with eternal infamy, but is in this country +(I think justly) thought a spirited action of a man, who was above +receiving the emoluments of an office, without performing the most +essential duty annexed to it himself. + +I have often heard it asserted, that a servant should be born under an +absolute monarchy: whether this observation is just or not, I cannot tell, +but I know, that a republic is _not_ the place to find good servants. +If you want to hire a maid servant in this city, she will not allow you +the title of _master_, or herself to be called a _servant_; and +you may think yourself favoured if she condescends to inform you when she +means to spend an evening abroad; if you grumble at all this, she will +leave you at a moment's warning; after which you will find it very +difficult to procure another on any terms. This is one of the natural +consequences of liberty and equality. + +Farewell, &c. + + +_March 3d, 1794._ + +Dear friend, + +Philadelphia, the present seat of government, both of the state of +Pensylvania, and of the whole federal union, consisted, in the year 1681, +of half a dozen miserable huts, inhabited by a few emigrants from Sweden; +when the celebrated William Penn obtained a charter from king Charles the +Second, for a certain tract of unsettled country in North America, +extending from twelve miles north of Newcastle, along the courses of the +Delaware, and a meridian line from its head, to the 43d degree of north +latitude, and westward, 5 degrees of longitude from its eastern bounds. + +In the year following, he arrived, and in 1701 the city was finally laid +out from Cedar-street to Vine-street, forming an oblong square of two +miles in length, from the river Delaware to the Scuylkill; and about a +mile in width. It was the wish of the founder, that the fronts facing the +_two_ rivers should be _equally_ built upon; by which means the city would +naturally meet in the centre; but they have not only deviated from the +original plan, by running the city along the banks of the Delaware, +_beyond_ the aforesaid streets, which formed the bounds in that direction, +but have left the _Scuylkill_ front without a single street. + +Philadelphia is situate in latitude 39 deg. 56 min. north, and long. 75 +deg. 8 min. west from Greenwich, on a narrow neck of land, between the +rivers Delaware and Scuylkill, on the Pensylvania banks of the latter, +where this river is about one mile wide, and one hundred and twenty +(following it's course) from the Atlantic Ocean. This noble river affords +a safe navigation for vessels of a thousand tuns burden up to the wharfs +of the city. The Scuylkill (though by no means so wide) has nearly the +same depth of water. + +Philadelphia is the first port in the Union. The total value of it's +exports in the year 1793, was 695736 dollars; the total of flower shipped +in the year 1792 was 420000 barrels, and in the spring only of 1793 it +exceeded 200000 barrels. + +The total of inward entries at Philadelphia, in 1793, was 1414 vessels of +different sizes, of which 477 were ships or brigs. + +It is foreign from the subject of this city, but I cannot help informing +you, that the imports of the _United States_ from _Great Britain_ +alone, in the year 1791, were stated at 19502070 dollars, (chiefly of +_manufactured articles_) and have been considerably increasing every +year since. + +By a slight inspection of the plan, you will perceive the great regularity +observed in laying out this city; the streets intersect each other at +right angles, the centre street, north and south, is 113 feet wide; that +east and west 100 feet; and the other principal streets 50 feet wide. Had +equal care been taken to build the houses uniformly, and their height in +proportion to the width of the streets, this city would have been +uncommonly beautiful; but except that the fronts of the buildings were not +permitted to extend beyond the line laid down in the plan, every man built +his house (to use the language of the first settlers,) "as it seemed good +in his own eyes." + +The first object of an industrious emigrant, who means to settle in +Philadelphia, is to purchase a lot of ground in one of the vacant streets. +He erects a small building forty or fifty feet from the line laid out for +him by the city surveyor, and lives there till he can afford to build a +house; when his former habitation serves him for a kitchen and wash-house. +I have observed buildings in this state in the heart of the city; but they +are more common in the outskirts. Our friend Wright is exactly in this +situation; but I am afraid it will be many years before he will be able to +build in _front_. + +The buildings in this city are about two thirds of brick, and the rest of +wood. The foundations of the former are in general of a species of marble; +the bricks are uncommonly well manufactured; and these buildings are more +firmly constructed than in Europe. Those of wood are the reverse, which +you will easily credit, when I inform you, that when a house of this +description is offered for sale, it is by no means understood, as in +England, that the _land_ on which it stands is included in the purchase. +They have a method of removing these buildings _entire_. A house +_travelling_ in this manner through the streets of the city is to a +European a truly grotesque and extraordinary sight. + +During the time the British troops had possession of this city in the last +war, they were much distressed for fuel, and obliged to cut down all the +wood they could meet with; upwards of a thousand acres of peach and apple +orchard were destroyed, belonging to one family. This destruction of the +trees has materially hurt the prospects for three or four miles on the +Pensylvania side; the opposite Jersey shore (except the plantations) is +one entire forest. + +Philadelphia is at present supplied with water from pumps, placed in +different parts of the city; but a company of adventurers are bringing +water from above the falls of Scuylkill, in the manner of the New River in +London: but mean to improve on sir Hugh Middleton's plan, by making their +aqueduct also serve the purposes of inland navigation. + +The inhabitants are in general very fond of theatrical representations; +their new theatre is an elegant building, from a design the subscribers +obtained from London, where the principal scenes were painted by +Richardson and Rooker. The receipts of the house have exceeded one +thousand six hundred dollars. + +The fair Philadelphians are by no means so fond of walking, as the English +ladies; not that they have any _great dislike_ to a _trip_ into the +_country_, but it is not fashionable even for a maid servant to make use +of her _legs_ on these occasions; the consequence is, that there are 806 +two and four wheeled machines entered at the office, and pay duty, as +_pleasure carriages_, most of which are for hire; and yet the inhabitants +do not exceed 50000, of whom there are not three individuals but follow +some profession, trade, or employment. In a few days I shall have an +opportunity of sending you a publication, which will give you a more ample +account of this city than you now receive from + +Yours, &c. + +Since writing this letter, the seat of government of the state has been +removed to Lancaster, as being nearer the centre; for the same reason, +that of the general government of the United States, will, in the year +1800, be removed to the federal city, now building in the district of +Columbia. + +Several _uniform_ and elegant rows of houses have _lately_ been built. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 7th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +It is a general observation with respect to the English, that they eat +more animal food than the people of any other nation. The following +statement of the manner of living of the Americans[Footnote: By the term +_American_ you must understand a white man descended from a native of +the Old Continent; and by the term _Indian_, or _Savage_, one of +the aborigines of the New World.] will convince you of the falsity of this +opinion. + +About eight or nine in the morning they breakfast on tea and coffee, +attended always with what they call _relishes_, such as salt fish, +beef-steaks, sausages, broiled-fowls, ham, bacon, &c. At two they dine on +what is usual in England, with a variety of american dishes, such as bear, +opossum, racoon, &c. At six or seven in the evening they have their +supper, which is exactly the same as their breakfast, with the addition of +what cold meat is left at dinner. I have often wondered how they acquired +this method of living, which is by no means calculated for the climate; +such stimulating food at breakfast and supper naturally causes thirst, and +there being no other beverage at these meals than tea, or coffee, they are +apt to drink too freely of them, particularly the female part of the +family; which, during the excessive heats in summer, is relaxing and +debilitating; and in winter, by opening the pores, exposes them to colds +of the most dangerous kind. + +The manner of living I have been describing is that of people in moderate +circumstances; but this taste for _relishes_ with coffee and tea extends +to all ranks of people in these states. Soon after my arrival at +this city, I went on a party of pleasure to a sort of tea-garden and +_tavern_[Footnote: By the word _tavern,_ in America, is meant an inn or +public house of any description.], romantically situate on the bank of the +Scuylkill. At six in the evening we ordered coffee, which I was informed +they were here famous for serving _in style_. I took a memorandum of what +was on the table; viz. _coffee, cheese, sweet cakes, hung beef, sugar, +pickled salmon, butter, crackers, ham, cream_, and _bread_. The ladies all +declared, it was a most _charming relish_! + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 12th, 1794._ + +Dear Friend, + +The price of labour in this country is very great, owing to the prospect +an industrious man has of procuring an independance by cultivating a tract +of the waste lands; many millions of acres of which are how on sale by +government; to say nothing of those held by individuals. The money arising +from the sale of the former is appropriated to the discharge of the +national debt. + +During my residence in Jersey, I was at no little pains to inform myself +of the difficulties attending a back settler. We will suppose a person +making such an attempt to possess one hundred pounds, though many have +been successful with a much less sum: his first care is to purchase about +three hundred acres of land, which, if it is in a remote western +settlement, he will procure for about nineteen pounds sterling: he may +know the quality of the land by the trees, with which it is entirely +covered. The hickory and the walnut are an infallible sign of a rich, and +every species of fir, of a barren, sandy, and unprofitable soil. When his +land is properly registered, his next care is to provide himself with a +horse, a plough, and other implements of agriculture; a rifle, a fowling +piece, some ammunition, and a large dog of the blood-hound breed, to hunt +deer. We will suppose him arrived at the place of his destination in +spring, as soon as the ground is clear of frost. No sooner is the arrival +of a new settler circulated, than, for many miles round, his neighbours +flock to him: they all assist in erecting his hut; this is done with logs; +a bricklayer is only wanting to make his chimney and oven. He then clears +a few acres by cutting down the large trees about four feet from the +_ground_[Footnote: These stumps are many years rotting, and, when +completely rotted, afford an excellent manure.], grubs up the underwood, +splits some of the large timber for railing fences, and sets fire to the +rest upon the spot; ploughs round the stumps of the large timber, and in +May plants maize, or indian corn. In October he has a harvest of eight +hundred or a thousand fold. This is every thing to him and his family. +Indian corn, ground and made into cakes, answers the end of bread, and +when boiled with meat, and a small proportion of a sort of kidney-bean +(which it is usual to sow with this grain), it makes an excellent dish, +which they call _hominy_. They also coarsely pound the indian corn, +and boil it for five hours; this is by the Indians called _mush_; +and, when a proportion of milk is added, forms their breakfast. Indian +corn is also the best food for horses employed in agriculture in this +climate: black cattle, deer, and hogs are very fond of it, and fatten +better than on any other grain. It is also excellent food for turkies, and +other poultry. + +When this harvest is in, he provides himself with a cow, and a few sheep +and hogs; the latter run wild in the woods. But for a few years he depends +chiefly on his _rifle_, and _faithful dog_; with these he provides his +family with deer, bear, racoon, &c.; but what he values most are the +black, and gray squirrels; these animals are large and numerous, are +excellent roasted, and make a soup exceedingly rich and nourishing. + +He gradually clears his land, a few acres every year, and begins to plant +wheat, tobacco, &c. These, together with what hogs, and other increase of +his stock he can spare, as also the skins of deer, bear, and other animals +he shoots in the woods, he exchanges with the nearest storekeeper, for +clothing, sugar, coffee, &c. + +In this state he suffers much for want of the comforts and even +_necessaries_ of life. Suppose him afflicted with a flux or fever, +attacked by a panther, bitten by a rattle-snake, or any other of the +dreadful circumstances peculiar to his situation: but, above all, suppose +a war to break out between the Indians, and him, and his whole family +scalped, and their plantations burnt! + +The following extract from an American work very feelingly describes him +under these cruel apprehensions:-- + +EXTRACT. + +"You know the position of our settlement; therefore I need not describe +it. To the west it is enclosed by a chain of mountains, reaching to----. +To the east, the country is yet but very thinly inhabited. We are almost +insulated, and the houses are at a considerable distance from each other. +From the mountains we have but too much reason to expect our dreadful +enemy, the Indians; and the wilderness is a harbour, where it is +impossible to find them. It is a door through which they can enter our +country at any time; and as they seem determined to destroy the whole +frontier, our fate cannot be far distant. From lake Champlain almost all +has been conflagrated, one after another. What renders these incursions +still more dreadful is, that they most commonly take place in the dead +of the night. We never go to our fields, but we are seized with an +involuntary fear, which lessens our strength, and weakens our labour. No +other subject of discourse intervenes between the different accounts, +which spread through the country, of successive acts of devastation; and +these, told in chimney corners, swell themselves in our affrighted +imaginations into the most terrific ideas. We never sit down, either to +dinner, or supper, but the least noise spreads a general alarm, and +prevents us from enjoying the comforts of our meals. The very appetite +proceeding from labour and peace of mind is gone! Our sleep is disturbed +by the most frightful dreams! Sometimes I start awake, as if the great +hour of danger was come; at other times the howling of our dogs seems to +announce the arrival of the enemy: we leap out of bed, and run to arms; my +poor wife, with panting bosom, and silent tears, takes leave of me, as if +we were to see each other no more. She snatches the youngest children from +their beds, who, suddenly awakened, increase by their innocent questions +the horrour of the dreadful moment! She tries to hide them in the cellar, +as if our cellar was inaccessible to the fire! I place all my servants at +the window, and myself at the door, where I am determined to perish. Fear +industriously increases every sound; we all listen; each communicates to +each other his fears and conjectures. We remain thus, sometimes for whole +hours, our hearts and our minds racked by the most anxious suspense! What +a dreadful situation! A thousand times worse than that of a soldier +engaged in the midst of a most severe conflict! Sometimes feeling the +spontaneous courage of a man, I seem to wish for the decisive minute; the +next instant a message from my wife, sent by one of the children, quite +unmans me. Away goes my courage, and I descend again into the deepest +despondency: at last, finding it was a false alarm, we return once more to +our beds; but what good can the sleep of nature do us, when interrupted +with _such_ scenes?" + + * * * * * + +But we will suppose our planter to have escaped the scalping knife and +tomahawk; and in the course of years situate in a thick, settled +neighbourhood of planters like himself, who have struggled through all the +foregoing difficulties: he is now a man of some consequence, builds a +house by the side of his former hut, which now serves him for a kitchen; +and as he is comfortably situate, we will leave him to the enjoyment of +the fruits of his industry. + +Such a being has often ideas of liberty, and a contempt of vassalage and +slavery, which do honour to human nature. + +The planter I have endeavoured to describe, I have supposed to be sober +and industrious: but when a man of an opposite description makes such an +attempt, he often degenerates into a demisavage; he cultivates no more +land than will barely supply the family with bread, or rather makes his +wife, and children perform that office. His whole employment is to procure +skins, and furs, to exchange for rum, brandy, and ammunition; for this +purpose he is often for several days together in the woods, without seeing +a human being. He is by no means at a loss; his rifle supplies him with +food, and at night he cuts down some boughs with his tomahawk, and +constructs a _wigwam_[Footnote: The Indian name for their huts so +constructed.], in which he spends the night, stretched on the skins of +those animals he has killed in the course of his excursion. This manner of +living he learned from his savage neighbours, the Indians, and like them +calls every other state of life _slavery_. It sometimes happens, that +an unsuccessful back settler joins the Indians at war with the states. +When this is the case, it is observed he is, if possible, more cruel than +his new allies; he eagerly imbibes all the vices of the savages, without a +single spark of their virtues. Farewell, + +Yours &c. + + +_Philadelphia, March 18th, 1794_. + +Dear Friend, + +My present intention is to give you some conception of the family of a +planter, whose ancestors had in some degree gone through all the +difficulties I described in my last. + +We will suppose them descended from the original english emigrants, who +came over with Penn; like them, to possess a high sense of religion; and +that this family are now in the quiet possession of about three hundred +acres of land, their own _property_[Footnote: There are very few _farms_ +properly so called in the United States.], situate in Pennsylvania, about +seventy or eighty miles from Philadelphia. Whatever difficulties they, or +their ancestors, struggled formerly with, are now over; their lands are +cleared, and in the bosom of a fine country, with a sure market for every +article of produce they can possibly raise, and entirely out of the reach +of the most desperate predatory excursions of the savages. + +They enjoy a happy state of mediocrity[Footnote: The quakers in +particular. I have seen at a meeting in West Jersey, in a very small town, +upwards of two hundred carriages, one horse chairs, and light waggons, +which are machines peculiar to this country, and well adapted to the sandy +soil of the state of New Jersey; they are covered like a caravan, and will +hold eight persons; the benches are removable at pleasure, and they are +also used to convey the produce of the country to market.], between riches +and poverty, perhaps the most enviable of all situations. When the boys of +this family are numerous, those the father cannot provide for at home, and +who prefer a planter's life to a trade, or profession, are, when married, +presented with two or three hundred acres of uncultivated land, which +their parents purchase for them as near home as possible. The young couple +are supplied with stock, and supported till they have a sufficient +quantity of land cleared to provide for themselves. + +If unsuccessful through want of industry, &c., they often sell off, and +emigrate to Kentucky, or some other new country seven or eight hundred +miles to the S.W., and begin the world again as back settlers. + +The daughters are brought up in habits of virtue and industry; the strict +notions of female delicacy, instilled into their minds from their earliest +infancy, never entirely forsake them. Even when one of these girls is +decoyed from the peaceful dwelling of her parents, and left by her +infamous seducer a prey to poverty and prostitution in a _brothel_ at +Philadelphia, her whole appearance is neat, and breathes an air of +modesty: you see nothing in her dress, language, or behaviour, that could +give you any reason to guess at her unfortunate situation; (how unlike her +unhappy sisters so circumstanced in England!) she by no means gives over +the idea of a husband, she is seldom disappointed: and, I am informed, +often makes an excellent wife. + +The chief amusement of the country girls in winter is sleighing, of which +they are passionately fond, as indeed are the whole sex in this country. I +never heard a woman speak of this diversion but with rapture. You have +doubtless read a description of a _sleigh_, or sledge, as it is +common in all northern countries, and can only be used on the snow. In +British America this amusement may be followed nearly all the winter; but +so far to the south as Pennsylvania, the snow seldom lies on the ground +more than seven or eight days together. The consequence is, that every +moment that will admit of sleighing is seized on with avidity. The tavern +and inn-keepers are up all night; and the whole country is in motion. When +the snow begins to fall, our planter's daughters provide hot sand, which +at night they place in bags at the bottom of the sleigh. Their sweethearts +attend with a couple of horses, and away they glide with astonishing +velocity; visiting their friends for many miles round the country. But in +large towns, in order to have a sleighing frolic in _style_, it is +necessary to provide a _fiddler_ who is placed at the head of the +sleigh, and plays all the way. At every inn they meet with on the road, +the company alight and have a dance. But I perceive I am _dancing_ +from my subject, which I suppose you are by this time heartily tired of; I +shall therefore conclude, by assuring you, + +I am + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +"There be also store of frogs, which in the spring time will chirp, and +whistle like birds: there be also toads, that will creep to the top of +trees, and sit there croaking, to the wonderment of strangers!" + +"To a stranger walking for the first time in these woods during the +summer, this appears the land of enchantment: he hears a thousand noises, +without being able to discern from whence or from what animal they +proceed, but which are, in fact, the discordant notes of five different +species of frogs!" + + +_Philadelphia, April 27th, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Previous to my coming to this country, I recollect reading the foregoing +passages, the first in a history of New England, published in London, in +the year 1671; and the other in a similar production of a later date. + +Prepared as I was to hear something extraordinary from these animals, I +confess the first frog _concert_ I heard in America was so much beyond any +thing I could conceive of the _powers_ of these _musicians_, that I was +truly astonished. This _performance_ was _al fresco_, and took place on +the night of the 18th instant, in a large _swamp_, where there were at +least ten thousand _performers_; and I really believe not two _exactly_ in +the same pitch, if the octave can possibly admit of so many divisions or +shades of semitones. An hibernian musician, who, like myself, was present +for the first time at this _concert_ of _antimusic_, exclaimed, "By Jasus +but they stop out of tune to a _nicety!"_ + +I have been since informed by an _amateur_, who resided many years in this +country, and made this species of _music_ his peculiar study, that on +these occasions the _treble_ is performed by the tree-frogs, the smallest +and most _beautiful_ species; they are always of the same colour as the +bark of the tree they inhabit, and their note is not unlike the chirp of a +cricket: the next in size are our _counter tenors_; they have a note +resembling the _setting_ of a _saw_. A still larger species sing _tenor_; +and the _under part_ is supported by the bull-frogs; which are as large as +a man's foot, and _bellow_ out the _bass_ in a tone as loud and sonorous +as that of the animal from which they take their name. + +To an Englishman lately arrived in this country there are other phenomena, +equally curious; as _fire-flies, night-hawks &c.;_ but, above all, +such tremendous peals of thunder and flashes of lightning, as can be +conceived only by those who have been in southern latitudes. + +I have often thought, if an enthusiastic _cockney_, of weak nerves, +who had never been out of the sound of Bow bell, could suddenly be +conveyed from his bed, in the middle of the night, and laid, fast asleep, +in an american swamp, he would, on waking, fancy himself in the infernal +regions: his first sensation would be from the stings of a myriad of +mosquitoes; waking with the smart, his ears would be assailed with the +horrid noises of the frogs; on lifting up his eyes he would have a faint +view of the night-hawks, flapping their ominous wings over his devoted +head, visible only from the glimmering light of the fire-flies, which he +would naturally conclude were sparks from the bottomless pit. Nothing +would be wanting at this moment to complete the illusion, but one of those +dreadful explosions of thunder and lightning, so _extravagantly_ +described by Lee, in Oedipus:-- + +"Call you these peals of thunder, but the yawn or bellowing clouds? by +Jove, they seem to me the world's last groans, and those large sheets of +flame it's last blaze!" + +I have often traversed the woods by myself at night, and sometimes during +_such scenes_; and though I was conscious that all round me proceeded from +natural causes, I could not at these times entirely forget, + +"All that the _priest_ and all the nurse had taught." + +Farewell.--Believe me + +Yours very sincerely, &c., + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, August 10th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Having a few weeks vacation at the theatre, we agreed upon a scheme to +give three concerts at Lancaster, a town in Pennsylvania, about seventy +miles west of this city. Our band was small, but select; and our singers +Darley, and miss Broadhurst. We crossed the Scuylkill about two miles +below the Falls. + +The country, which, from the Atlantic to this spot, is nearly a level, now +abruptly swells into hills, and rises as you advance westerly, till you +reach the Allegany mountains, the great _back bone_ of America, as +the Indians call that chain of mountains. There is then a considerable +descent; but that the country rises afterward for many hundred miles is +certain from the course of the rivers. No traveller has penetrated so far +west, in these latitudes, as to find a river which did not ultimately run +into the Atlantic Ocean, + +We slept about a mile from the _Pioli_. I took a walk to reconnoitre +the field of battle, with one who was present at that horrid affair. + +General Wayne was here completely surprised, but had his revenge at Stoney +Point. + +After St. Claire's defeat, he was appointed by Congress to the command of +the continental army in the present indian war. The fatal surprise at the +Pioli has been an excellent lesson for him; since his present appointment +he has established the most rigid discipline: this is of the utmost +consequence in any army; but particularly so in _that_ he commands, +as they have to contend with the most subtle and desperate foe on earth, +flushed with their late victory over St. Claire.--In a former indian war, +an army lay with it's rear and flanks well secured; a river three quarters +of a mile broad in its front, and no enemy within fifty miles. A body of +Indians, being informed by their scouts of the situation of this army, +made a forced march, crossed the river in the night, on rafts hastily +constructed, completely surprised the camp before sun-rise in the morning, +butchered all before them, and made their retreat good with their scalps +and plunder, before the enemy recovered from the general consternation. +The system of military tactics Wayne has introduced is admirably adapted +to the perilous service, in which he is engaged. He fights the Indians in +their own way, and scalps are now taken on both sides.--There is expected +to be warm work this campaign; and it is generally imagined Wayne will +meet with the fate of Braddock and St. Clare. A few military men I have +discoursed with, are of another opinion; they tell me the rifle-men of the +western army were recruited from Kentucky, and other remote settlements, +and are all experienced _back-woods-men_, who have been great part of +their lives in the habits of Indian fighting; that the general is forming +a body of cavalry, on principles entirely new, from which much is +expected; in short, that Wayne will oblige the Indians to _bury the +hatchet_ on his own terms. The Indian war is not popular. It has met +with much opposition both in the General Assemblies of the States, and in +Congress. + +The devastation that has (even within the present century) taken place +among the brave and independent aborigines of this continent, is really +shocking to humanity[Footnote: The Cherokees are by no means the +formidable body of warriors they were 40 years ago. The original +possessors of the vast tract of land which forms North Carolina, are +reduced to a single family; and several tribes of the eastern Indians +actually exterminated.]. + +I spent the evening at the Pioli, with a surgeon of the american army +lately from the scene of action; he gave me a disgusting account of the +misunderstanding that subsists between the american citizens on the +frontiers, and their neighbours in Upper Canada. It seems the Canadians +are accused of assisting the indians in the decisive action against St. +Clare. + +As many of the descendants of the original french settlers have indian +blood in their veins, the charge is not improbable, as far as relates to a +few _individuals_, but that they received either the connivance, or +protection of _government_, (as the Americans assert) is totally +without foundation. + +I never take up a western newspaper that does not teem with the most +illiberal abuse of the british government. It would therefore be +impossible to exonorate certain american citizens from _their share of +provocation_, and a wish to blow up the hardly-extinguished embers of +the late war. This temper is kept alive by french agents, who use every +means of inflaming the public mind, by the most flagrant exaggerations of +the late captures, &c.: and so successful have they been in their +misrepresentations, that a war with England would at this time be very +popular. + +_Aug. 30th_.--You can conceive nothing more beautifully romantic, +than the appearance of the country during the latter part of this day's +journey. The hills, bold, rounding, and lofty, are covered with wood to +their very summit. In the midst of this wild scenery is the mighty +_Susquana_, above a mile wide, dashing over rocks and precipices, +seventy or eighty miles distant from the flow of the tide. A similar body +of running water, perfectly clear and transparent, with so many hundred +cascades as beautify the Susquana, is perhaps no where else to be met +with. Unfortunately these very beauties render the navigation of this +noble river impracticable. + +_Aug. 31st_.--Arrived at Lancaster, a prettily situate town, of about +nine hundred houses. It is reckoned the largest inland town south of New +England, and indeed the only large town without some kind of navigation; +to remedy this inconvenience as much as possible, a turnpike road (very +superiour to any thing of the kind in America, and which will cost three +thousand dollars per mile,) is forming from Philadelphia, through +Lancaster, to the Susquana. I before told you this river, owing to the +rocks and falls, was not navigable; but I forgot to inform you, that the +inhabitants of the back country contrive to waft the produce of their +plantations down the river on floats, during the floods, in spring and +fall; which will be conveyed by means of this new road to Philadelphia, +whence it will be exported to the west indian or european markets. + +The only manufactory in Lancaster is one of rifles; they have contracted +to supply the continental army with these _"mortal engines."_ + +I have heard a hundred improbable stories relative to what was done with +the rifle by famous marksmen in America, such as shooting an apple from a +child's head, &c; to which I could not give credit: but, I have no reason +to doubt the following feat: as it was actually performed before many +hundred inhabitants of this borough, and the adjacent country.--During the +late war, in the year 1775, a company of riflemen, formed from the back +woodsmen of Virginia, were quartered here for some time: two of them +_alternately_ held a board only nine inches square between his knees, +while his comrade fired a ball through it from a distance of one hundred +paces! The board is still preserved; and I am assured by several who were +present, that it was performed without any manner of deception. + +Lancaster was originally a german settlement; the inhabitants were so +desirous of perpetuating their language, that they established german +schools for the education of the rising generation; but their descendants, +finding the inconvenience of being without a knowledge of English, now +send their children first to the german, and afterward to the english +schools; by which means they acquire a tolerable idea of both languages. +They still retain many characteristics of their ancestors; such as +frugality, plainness in dress, &c. At our first concert, three +clownish-looking fellows came into the room, and, after sitting a few +minutes, (the weather being _warm_, not to say _hot_) very composedly took +off their coats: they were in the usual summer dress of farmers servants +in this part of the country; that is to say, _without_ either stockings or +breeches, a loose pair of trowsers being the only succedaneum. As we fixed +our admission at a dollar each, (here seven shillings and sixpence,) we +expected this circumstance would be sufficient to exclude _such_ +characters; but on inquiry, I found (to my very great surprise!) our three +_sans culottes_ were german _gentlemen_ of considerable property in the +neighbourhood! + +They manage these matters better at Hanover; (a settlement of germans +about forty miles hence.) One of the articles of their dancing assembly +is in these words; "No gentleman to enter the ball-room without +_breeches_, or to be allowed to dance without his _coat_." + +All the back parts of Pennsylvania were in general cleared, and settled by +german, and irish emigrants; but the former are commonly more prosperous +than their neighbours, whom they excel in sobriety and economy, and have +also a much better understanding amongst themselves. + +An irish family often arrives, and purchases a plantation; which for some +years brings them good crops, but for want of manure will in time be worn +out (a very common case in America.) When in this situation they offer it +for sale, the adjacent german families club a sum of money, purchase the +land, plough it well, and let it remain in this state for three or four +years: they then place an emigrant family from their _own country_ +upon the farm, who, by indefatigable industry and manure, soon bring the +land round, pay for the estate by installments, and live very comfortably. +Some of the best plantations in Pennsylvania were originally left in this +manner. The irish family go two or three hundred miles up the country, +where they can purchase as much land as they please, from sixpence to a +dollar per acre: here they literally _break fresh ground_, and begin +the world again. To some timorous people, their new situation would be +thought dangerous, as they are liable to a visit from the Indians, and +perishing by the scalping knife and tomahawk.--See a former letter on back +settlers. + +_Aug. 6th_.--We returned to Philadelphia, not _overloaded_ with _cash_, +but with more than was sufficient for our expenses, which, owing to +several excursions from Lancaster, were not trifling.--Farewel.--Believe +me + +Yours very sincerely. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, 14th August, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +By captain H----, of the Betsy, who will deliver this letter, I have sent +you specimens of the federal coinage. + +When that government was formed, a mint was established, and a coinage +issued on a new plan. This was much wanted, as scarcely three of the +states agreed as to the value currency of a dollar. Here it was seven +shillings and sixpence, in South Carolina four shillings and eight pence, +at New York eight shillings, and in the New England states six shillings. +According to the new regulations, all _nominal_ coins are exploded, +and the silver dollar, weighing 17 dwts. 6 grs.[Footnote: This is the +exact weight of the spanish milled dollar, which, as well as the +divisions, are allowed to pass current; they consist of the half, quarter, +eighth, and sixteenth, also the pistreen, or fifth, and the half pistreen, +or tenth.], is fixed as the standard, divided into one hundred decimal +parts; these are of copper, and called cents. All taxes, duties and +imposts, that extend to the _whole Union_, are levied in these coins +_only_. The other federal coins, like the english guineas and crowns, +never appear on the public accounts. + +Those of _gold_ are eagles, half eagles, and quarter eagles, value ten, +five, and two and a half, dollars: of _silver_, the half, quarter, tenth, +and twentieth of the standard dollar; or fifty, twenty-five, ten, and five +cents: of _copper_, the half cent, or two hundredth part of a dollar. The +principle on which this coinage is formed is so very simple, that the +proportion they bear to each other, and the standard dollar may be found +with the utmost facility. Indeed little else is wanted than the adding or +cutting off figures or ciphers: for instance, the public accounts being +kept in two columns, dollars, and cents; suppose in adding up the latter, +you find they amount to 27621, you have only to cut off the two right hand +figures, and their value stands thus; 276 dollars, 21 cents. To reduce +eagles to dollars, add a cipher, and vice versa. To reduce half, and +quarter eagles to dollars, you have only to divide by 2 or 4 previous to +adding the cipher. + +But though the federal government has succeeded in establishing it's +coinage, the _people_ cannot be persuaded (the wholesale merchants, and a +few enlightened citizens excepted,) to come into this scheme; _they_ +obstinately insist on buying, selling, and keeping their accounts in the +_good old way of their fathers!_ that is to say, in _currency_, by pounds, +shillings, and pence; and nothing can be more complex, as they have not a +single _coin_ in circulation of the _real_ or _nominal_ value of any of +them. If you are to pay the sum of three shillings and fourpence +halfpenny, (without having recourse to the federal scheme) you must +provide yourself with three silver divisions of the Spanish dollar, viz. +the fourth, eighth, and sixteenth, three english halfpence, two of George +the Second, and one of his present majesty[Footnote: Owing to the quantity +of counterfeit english halfpence of the present reign now in circulation +in these states, those of king George the Third, whether counterfeit or +not, are depreciated to the 360th part of a dollar.]; the nominal value of +which, added together, make that sum within a very trifling fraction. + +I am informed the federal government means to fix the weights and measures +by a standard, which, like the coinage, will admit of the same _even_ +division by decimals. I am often asked why the English, after having +proved the great utility of this scheme in their chain of one hundred +links for land measuring, do not extend it to their coin, &c.? If you can +think of a good solution to this question, pray let me have it in your +next to + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, August 18th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In a former letter I mentioned the relishes of salt fish usual at +breakfast and supper in this country; they are chiefly of shad, a name +given them by the first settlers, from their having _some resemblance_ to +that fish, though in fact they are very different; and indeed this is the +case with almost every fish, bird, and other animal these Anglo-Americans +took it into their heads to christen. It is a great pity they did not call +those peculiar to this continent by their _indian_ names; and this should +also have been the case with mountains, lakes, rivers, &c. What man of any +taste will not prefer the sonorous sounds of Susquana, Patapsico, +Allegany, Raphanock, Potomack, and other _indian_ titles, to such stupid +appellations as Cape Cod, Mud Island, cat-fish, sheep's head-fish, whip +poor will, &c.? + +But to return to the _shad_, if it must be so called; it is an excellent +fish, and comes up the rivers in prodigious shoals, in the months of April +and May, to spawn. The largest nets used in this fishery are on the +Delaware, where that river is from one to two miles wide. These nets are +from one hundred and fifty to three hundred yards long. The greatest hawl +ever known was upwards of nine thousand, from four to nine pounds per +fish. + +The revolution has not yet done away a fanatical law passed by the +quakers, prohibiting the catching of these fish on a sunday; which, +considering the short time they remain in the river, is highly impolitic. + +There are thirteen fisheries within ten miles of Philadelphia; allowing +only eight sundays in the season, and ten thousand shads lost in each of +the twenty-four hours, a very moderate calculation, the aggregate loss to +Philadelphia, and the adjacent country, is eighty thousand fish, weighing +five pounds each, on an average. I say _loss_; for the return of the +fish is the same now as it was a hundred and thirty years ago, when only a +few dozen were taken in the season by the Indians. + +There is also a small fish which comes up the rivers with the shad; the +shoals this year have been uncommonly large; upwards of ten thousand have +been taken at one hawl. Like the shad, it takes salt well; and, from it's +having some resemblance to a _herring_, they give it that name, though +very different from the herring which visits the shores of Europe. I +believe there is no instance of a herring running a hundred and fifty +miles up a fresh water river, or existing at all in water perfectly fresh. + +The above particulars you may depend upon; they were communicated to me by +Mr. West, who is proprietor of the largest shad-fisheries on the Delaware. + +This river also abounds in cat-fish, perch, jack, eels, and a great +variety of others; above all, in sturgeon; which are frequently caught by +accident in the shad-nets, and either boiled for their oil, or suffered to +rot on the, shores, being very seldom sent to market: when this is the +case, they are sold for a mere trifle, chiefly to emigrants. The Americans +have conceived a violent antipathy to this fish. I recollect no instance +of seeing it at their tables. They have every externals appearance of the +european sturgeon, but in other respects must be _very different_, or +the Americans lose one of the best fisheries in the world. + +Enclosed is an extract from general Lincoln's letter on the migration of +fish. He endeavours to prove, that river fish, after their passage to the +sea, whatever time they remain there, always return to the original waters +in which they were spawned, unless some unnatural obstructions are thrown +in their way. + +Yours, &c. + +In an old History of Bermuda, published in the year 1661, is the following +passage:-- + +"There is great store of fish, which being mostly unknown to the English, +they gave them such names as best _liked_ them, as _porgie-fish, +hog-fish, yellow-tails, cony-fish_, &c." + + +EXTRACT. + +"Whilst I resided in Philadelphia, in 1782, and 1783, I discovered that +the shad brought to market from the Scuylkill were very superiour in +flavour and firmness to those taken in the Delaware, which must proceed +from their food in that river, previous to their going to the sea; as they +are taken by the nets of the fishermen, before they are six hours in that +river, on their return. I cannot think it a romantic idea, that the waters +are impregnated with certain particles, on which they have been accustomed +to feed; which is sufficient to allure them to where they were originally +spawned; or that they are piloted there by some of the old fry. This idea +will not appear improbable, when we consider the general laws which seem +to control the whole finny tribe; and what would be the consequence should +they be thrown down? The cod-fish which occupy the banks of Newfoundland, +between the latitudes of 41 and 45, are very different, and are kept so +distinct, and are so similar on the respective banks, that a man +acquainted with that fishery will separate those caught on one bank from +those of another, with as much ease as we separate the apple from the +pear. + +"I am, &c. + +"Lincoln." + + +_Baltimore, 14th October, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the 7th of September I left the city of Brotherly Love, on my way to +this town. + +After sailing down the Delaware about two hours, in the water stage, our +skipper run us on a sand bank. As there was no remedy but to wait +patiently for the flow of tide, a party of us borrowed a boat, and went a +shooting on the islands with which this part of the Delaware abounds. We +landed at Fort Miflin, which was the principal obstruction to general +Howe's progress up the river, in his way to Philadelphia, and obliged him +to go several hundred miles round; this fort also kept the whole british +fleet at bay, for some time after the army had taken possession of that +city. + +Fort Miflin, or Mud Fort (so called from it's low situation) is on an +island in the Delaware, about one third nearer the Pennsylvania, than the +Jersey shore. + +During the first general attack of the british fleet the fort set fire to +the Augusta, of 64 guns, and she shortly after blew up; and the Merlin +sloop was so roughly handled, that she was hastily evacuated. The british +admiral then procured a pilot, who carried two men of war, cut down for +that purpose, on the Pennsylvania side of the island; a manoeuvre the +Americans deemed impracticable. The works of the fort were now completely +enfiladed, and on the 15th of November, the British began; a desperate +attack, both from their ships on each side the island, and from a battery +on the Pennsylvania shore. + +The fort was supported by a battery on, the opposite side, and some +row-gallies. + +The british fire was heavy and well directed: they are supposed to have +fired 1030 shots, weighing from 12 to 32 pounds, every 20 minutes, which, +by the middle of the day, nearly levelled the works with the mud. This was +the moment to storm the fort, which being lost by the British, the remains +of the brave garrison made their retreat good to the Jersey shore the same +night. + +The British now having the complete command of the Delaware, totally +dismantled this fort: in which state it remained till last year, when a +french engineer was engaged to put it again into a state of defence. The +works are already in great forwardness: the parapets are, according to the +new french improvements, without embrasures, and the guns mounted on false +carriages. + +We also landed on several of, the other islands, and had tolerable sport. + +At high water we proceeded on our voyage, and about twelve the next day +arrived at Newcastle; whence I walked to Glasgow, a small village within a +few miles of the river Elk, where general Howe landed his troops, after +sailing two hundred and fifty miles up the bay of Chesapeak. His head +quarters were at the house where I slept; the landlord also informed me, +that I lay on the same bed general Washington occupied four times a year, +in his way to his seat at Mount Vernon; an honour I did not _exactly_ know +the _value_ of till the next morning, when he brought in _his bill_; after +satisfying my conscientious landlord, I walked to French Town, which +consists of _two houses_. This _town_ is about 17 miles from the Delaware, +and has a communication with the Chesapeak by means of the river Elk. But +there is a nearer approximation of the Chesapeak to the Delaware, from a +creek running into the latter at Apoquiminick, where the distance is only +7 miles: over this neck of land, all the trade between Philadelphia and +Baltimore is conveyed in waggons. How soon would a canal be cut in such a +situation in England! + +I embarked in the Baltimore pacquet; had a pleasant sail down the Elk; in +four hours entered the bay, and arrived here the same evening. + +_September 12th._ + +The yellow fever is certainly in town. Is it not astonishing the example +of Philadelphia last year did not teach the inhabitants of Baltimore the +necessity of building a lazaretto, and establishing a strict quarantine on +all vessels from the infected islands in the West Indies? The first was +not even attempted, and the last so carelessly performed, that I am +mistaken if the fever has not been imported into more than _one_ part +of the town. + +_Sept. 29th_.--The theatre closed at the request of the committee of +health, the fever gaining ground rapidly, and the inhabitants quitting the +town as fast as possible. + +_October the 2d_. + +The committee of health published their list of deaths, which they mean to +continue every 24 hours. Died since the 1st of August 344 persons. The +next day a violent cold and penetrating N.W. wind set in, with uncommon +severity, which has entirely stopped the infection. + +_Oct. 14th_.--The late cold weather has completely destroyed the +yellow fever. The inhabitants are returned, and trade is restored to its +usual course. + +Yours, sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +Baltimore and the Point[Footnote: Or Fell's Point, the name given to a +small but well-situated town about a mile lower down the bay.] may be +considered but as one town, as the interval that parts them is already +laid out for building. + +There is not perhaps on the face of the earth so many excellent situations +for a sea-port as in this vicinity; and yet they have fixed on the very +spot where the town should _not_ be. + +Baltimore, by being built so far from the bay of Chesapeak, has not depth +of water for a vessel of two hundred tons, nearer than the Point. The +lower part of the town is a dead flat, intersected with canals and docks, +filled with stagnated water from the Basin: owing to this circumstance the +town is unhealthy at certain seasons, and subject, in the fall, to +musquitoes: these inconveniences might have been avoided by building the +town a mile lower, on either side the bay. + +But there is a much better situation for a town and port on an inlet from +the Patapsico, west of the town, round a point, which runs about W.N.W. +where I have marked No. 10. + +On this spot is water for a vessel of eight hundred tons burden, +sufficiently fresh to exclude the worms, and at the same time a current +strong enough to prevent stagnation. A bay perfectly secure from the N.W. +and other dangerous winds, a gradual rise of ground consisting of a fine +dry gravel to build upon; in short, every natural advantage. This was the +original situation designed for the town; but the proprietor was concerned +in a wharf in this neighbourhood, and fearing the new town would injure +his business, positively refused his consent to the proposals made him on +this occasion, and by that means, lost one of the first estates perhaps +ever offered to an individual. + +I was in this bay, on a fishing party, a few days ago, with one of his +descendants, who was lamenting the infatuation of his ancestor. This +gentleman was so kind as to point out and explain the foregoing +particulars. + +You will naturally inquire how the town came to be built in it's present +situation? The governor of the province was proprietor of most of the +land. Is not _that_ a sufficient reason. + +About forty years ago the two towns of Baltimore, and the Point, contained +only _two_ brick houses, and a few wooden ones: in a late edition of +Salmon's Geography, I find Baltimore described as consisting of a few +straggling houses, scarcely deserving the _name_ of a _town_. Within these +fifteen years it has increased in size and population beyond all +precedent. It now contains nearly twenty thousand inhabitants; and, in +point of trade, Baltimore is the fourth town in America. + +The following anecdote will give you some idea of the growth of the town, +and amazing increase in the value of land:-- + +An english gentleman, who emigrated to this country some years ago, built +a small _country seat_ on the side of the race ground; this house is +now in the possession of a colonel Rogers, and in the _centre street of +Baltimore_. The colonel has sold the wings for two thousand guineas to +build upon, and still retains the house. + +But the improvements have not advanced in proportion to the buildings; +there is scarcely a dozen lamps in the whole town, which is badly paved, +&c. + +All the inhabitants agree as to the necessity of establishing a powerful, +and energetic government, for the regulation of the town, _somewhere_; but +though frequent town meetings have been called, they cannot agree about +the _means_. + +Something must soon be done, as the nuisances are every day increasing. + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + +Since writing the above, the general assembly has ordered fifty thousand +dollars be raised by lottery, which are laid out in paving the town, and +clearing the Basin. Two enormous machines have been constructed on the +dutch plan, to work with oxen, which make such progress in clearing the +channel, that it is expected in a few years it will be sufficiently deep, +to admit the largest merchantmen to come up to the wharfs of the town. And +since my landing in England, my brother informs me, Baltimore is at last +incorporated; a vigorous police established; and improvements are going on +with spirit. + + * * * * * + +_Baltimore, November 27th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Yours of the 21st of August I received.--So I find you fall into the +commonplace notion of the English, that manufactories are forming here, +which will in a short time render all importation of british goods +unnecessary. Take my word for it, you have nothing of that kind to fear, +whilst the United States have so few inhabitants, and so _much_ of +their best land uncultivated. It is not their _interest_ to engage in +manufactories; and when the country is sufficiently populous, it will be +easier to conquer South America, and procure thence the _means_ of +purchasing commodities, than to go through the _drudgery_ of their +_fabrication_: but at present such is the cheapness of land, and the high +price of wheat, and other produce, that it has raised the value of labour +beyond the profits of almost any manufacture. If they could be established +with effect in any part of America, it would be in the _New England +states_, where the population is more than double those of the south; and +provision much cheaper; but the New Englanders, when they fancy themselves +too populous, rather than engage in a laborious trade, prefer emigration +to the _Genasee_[Footnote: The Genasee is a rich tract of country, a +considerable distance west of New York, much resorted to by New England +emigrants since the peace with the Six Nations. Kentucky is at least one +thousand miles from the nearest of the New England states, two hundred of +which are through a wilderness, which cannot be passed during an indian +war, without great danger.], or even Kentucky. The same restless, +enterprising spirit, which brought their ancestors from Europe, carries +them to these remote western settlements; and I have no doubt their +descendants will continue the same in that direction; till the Pacific +Ocean[Footnote: A distance of more than two thousand miles from the most +remote western settlement.] stops their further progress; unless, as I +before observed, lured by a _golden bait_, they go to the _south_: let the +Spaniard look to that.--The manufactories in this country that have fallen +under my observation are one of rifles at Lancaster, another of musquets +at Connecticut, and at German Town, in Pennsylvania, a peculiar sort of +winter stockings. An American has lately procured a patent from Congress, +for cutting brads out of sheet iron with an engine. The american iron is +of an excellent quality, and possesses a great degree of malleability, +which perhaps suggested the first idea of this invention. The following +extract from the advertisement of the patentee will enable you, to form +some judgment of this singular undertaking: "He begs leave to observe +their superiority to english-wrought brads consists in their being quite +regular in their shape, so much so, that ten thousand may be drove through +the thinnest pine board, without using a brad-awl, or splitting the board. +They have the advantage also of being cut _with the grain_ of the iron; +others are cut _against_ it. He has already three engines at work, which +can turn out two hundred thousand per day." + +Another patent has been granted for making the teeth of cotton and wool +cards by an engine, which is supposed to be a similar process. + +There are also manufactories of cotton, sail cloth, gun-powder, glass, +&c., but of no great consequence. + +Their sawing-mills are numerous, and well constructed; this circumstance, +and the great quantity of timber, mast, spars, &c., with which this +country abounds, enable them to build vessels considerably under what you +can afford in England, though the wages of a shipwright are now two +dollars and a quarter per day. Theirs ships, in point of model and +sailing, if not superiour, are at least equal to the best european-built +vessels, and when constructed of _live oak_, and _red cedar_, are equally +durable. Vessels of this description are scarce. Live oak is rarely met +with north of the Carolinas: that used in the Boston ship-yards is brought +from Georgia; a distance of more than a thousand miles, + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, February 21st 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +You know one motive for my coming to this country was, that I might have +an unlimited range in my two favourite amusements, shooting, and fishing, +and in both I have had tolerable sport. But as few except emigrants, +follow the european method of shooting, I cannot purchase a pointer for +any sum: pray send me one by an early fall ship, and if possible smuggle +me half a dozen pounds of Battel powder; for since you have begun to cut +one another's throats in Europe, I find it impossible to procure any but +dutch, and that unglazed, at the _moderate_ price of two dollars a +pound. + +We have two kinds of partridges; one larger, and the other smaller, than +those of Europe: the former reside chiefly in the woods, and is in the +southern states called a pheasant; but it is in fact neither one nor the +other: the latter is called a quail in the northern states. The flesh of +these birds is perfectly rich, white, and juicy, and though it has not a +game flavour, is a very great delicacy. In other respects (except their +size, and that they occasionally perch on the branches of a tree,) they +differ very little in their plumage, call, manner of keeping in coveys, +&c., from the partridge of England. They are amazingly prolific; I have +often found twelve or fourteen coveys in the course of a few hours +shooting; this will appear extraordinary, when you are informed there are +no game laws in America, and that all ranks of citizens, or even a negro, +may destroy them in any manner he pleases. When the snow is on the ground, +whole coveys are taken in traps, and brought alive to market. They fly +swiftly, and afford an excellent shot; but if the same covey be shot at a +second time, they will often seek a refuge in the woods, whence it is +difficult to dislodge them. They are very hardy, and will bear almost any +degree of heat and cold; this circumstance, and their being so prolific, I +should think would make a breed of them in England a very desirable +acquisition. I am determined to bring over a few couples, by way of +experiment. + +We are visited by a sort of woodcock in July and August; we have also a +kind of grouse, plover, dove, and wild pigeon, snipe, wild fowl, +and a wonderful variety of small birds; among which, the _reed-bird_ +[Footnote: So called from their note resembling the word _reed_.], or +american ortolan, justly holds the first place: they visit us from the +south, and are found at certain seasons as far as the West Indies in that +direction. + +The back woodsmen, and indeed all western settlers, affect to despise our +mode of shooting; they all use rifles, and throw a single ball to a great +degree of certainty. The riflemen in the last war were all of this +description, _Their_ game are deer, bear, beaver, and other animals. +The only _bird_ they think worthy their attention is the wild turkey. +An american naturalist (Bartram) says, "Our turkey of America is a very +different species from the meleagris of Asia and Europe. I have seen +several that have weighed between twenty and thirty pounds, and some have +been killed that have weighed nearly forty pounds." + +Why do not the Americans domesticate this noble bird? They are much better +adapted to bear this climate than the puny breed their ancestors imported +from England. The few that are shot so far to the eastward as to be +brought to our markets bear a great price. + +The shooting of the back settlers is rather _business_ than _sport_. When +they are inclined for a frolic of the latter sort, they meet in large +parties to shoot the gray squirrel: the devastation made on these +occasions is incredible; the following is from the Kentucky Gazette; and I +have no doubt, that it is strictly true:-- + + +"_Lexington, July 13th._ + +"At a squirrel-hunt in Madison county, on the 29th and 30th ult., the +hunters rendezvoused at captain Archibald Wood's, and upon counting the +_scalps_[Footnote: By scalp is here meant skin, which is an excellent +fur.] taken, it was found they amounted to 5589!" + +This sport is not confined to the back woods, but is in such general +estimation, as to be preferred to all other shooting. They find this game +by means of a mongrel breed of dogs, trained for that purpose; the +squirrel, on being pursued, immediately ascends one of the most lofty +trees he can find; the dog follows, and makes a point under the tree, +looking up for his game. The squirrel hides himself behind the branches, +and practises a thousand manoeuvres to avoid the shot; sometimes springing +from one tree to another, with astonishing agility. Nature has given him a +thick fur; this circumstance, and the height of the trees, make a long +barrel, and large shot, indispensable in this kind of shooting. The best +method of cooking the squirrel is in a ragout; this I learnt of a french +epicure, who always speaks with rapture of this _bonne bouche_: it +has a high game flavour, and is justly thought by the Americans to be an +excellent dish; but we have many English, who, through mere prejudice, +never tasted this animal; their antipathy also extends to bear, opossum, +racoon, and cat-fish:--"Oh!" say the english ladies, "the _sight_ of +such frightful creatures is quite enough for me!"' + +Fishing parties among the farmers, and in small towns in some parts of +America, are very agreeably arranged: twelve or fourteen neighbours form +themselves into a sort of club, and agree to fish one day in the week +during the summer; previous: to which they fix on a romantic situation on +the side of a wood commanding the intended scene of action. Under some of +the large trees they erect a sort of hut, forming a dining-room and +kitchen. + +When the time is fixed to begin fishing, the steward for the day sends +down a negro cook, with bread, butter, wine, liquors, culinary utensils, +etc. About ten in the morning the fishermen arrive, and follow the sport +in boats, canoes, or from the shore, either with angles or nets; but they +seldom make use of the latter, except when they are disappointed in +angling: they are then determined the fish, though not in a humour to +bite, shall not deprive them of their dinner. At one they all meet at the +place of general rendezvous, where all hands are employed in preparing the +fish for the cook; by which means the dinner is soon on the table.--When +over, and a few glasses have circulated, those who do not choose to remain +drinking, take a nap during the heat of the day, which in this country is +from two to four in the afternoon. At five the ladies arrive, and the +company amuse themselves in catching fish for supper, walking in the +woods, swinging, singing, playing on some musical instrument, &c. I +have often been on these parties, and never spent my time more to my +satisfaction; which is more than you will be able to say of that spent in +reading this scrawl from + +Yours, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, May 7th, 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In answer so your last, respecting the aborigines of this continent, I am +almost ashamed to inform you, I have scarcely any particulars on the +subject worth troubling you with. Ever since my arrival in America, I have +made up my mind to take the first opportunity of going to the westward on +a shooting party, for a month or two, among the Indians; for which purpose +I procured an introduction to the young _corn-planter_, son to a +chief of the six nations, who is here for his education. He was no sooner +informed of my intention, than he gave me a cordial invitation to attend +him on his return in the fall; or, if I could not then make it convenient, +at any other time; but the distance is so great, that, to confess the +truth, I have never yet been able to raise the _necessary supplies_, +and am likely to leave America without seeing a single wigwam. + +The Indians have a fine natural genius for oratory, painting, and +sculpture: I have a specimen of the latter cut with a knife on a piece of +hickory, which is destitute neither of elegance of design, nor neatness of +execution. But the most extraordinary trait in the character of these _red +men_ is their _continence_. We have every year fourteen or fifteen of +their chiefs in this city, to form treaties, and other public business. +They are often attended with well-made young men in the prime of life, +and yet I never heard but of _one_ instance of their engaging in a +love-intrigue of _any kind_. They frequently tomahawk and scalp the most +beautiful women, who are so unfortunate as to fall into their hands in +time of war.--Each warrior cuts the number of scalps he has taken on his +war club, and distinguishes the sex by certain marks. Several of these +clubs, and other indian trophies taken from famous chiefs in former wars, +are deposited in the Philadelphia Museum. On one war club I counted _five_ +fatal proofs of the savage who owned the weapon having butchered as many +women! + +But whatever cruelties they practise on their female captives, they are +never known to take the slightest liberty with them _bordering on +indecency_. Mary Rowlandson, a fanatic, who was captured in 1765, has +the following passage in her narrative: + +"I have been in the midst of these roaring lions, and savage bears, that +neither fear God, man, nor devil, by day and night, _alone_, and in +company, _sleeping all sorts together_, and yet not one of them offered me +the least abuse of unchastity, in word or action!" + +Charlevoix, in his account of the Canadian Indians, says, there is no +example of their having taken the least liberty with any of the french +women, even when their prisoners. In short, all accounts allow them this +extraordinary male virtue, but differ whether it proceeds from education, +or what the french call temperament. + +But as they do not look upon chastity as a necessary requisite in the +character of the squaws _before_ marriage, these ladies are said by +the white traders to be _less eminent_ for this virtue than their +warriors. + +The works of F---- being little known in England, I send you some +specimens of his writing on _indian_ subjects; and, however uncouth, +his language may appear, you may rely on the truth and accuracy of his +descriptions:-- + + + +THE INDIAN STUDENT; +or, +FORCE OF NATURE. + + +RURA MIHI ET RIGUI PLACEANT IN VALLIBUS AMNES; +ILUMINA AMEM, SYLVASQUE INGLORIUS. + +Virg. Georg. 2d. v. 483. + + * * * * * + +From Susquehanna's utmost springs, + Where savage tribes pursue their game, +His blanket tied with yellow strings, + A shepherd of the forest came. + +Not long before, a wandering priest + Express'd his wish with visage sad-- +'Ah, why,' he cry'd, 'in Satan's waste, + 'Ah, why detain so fine a lad? + +'In Yanky land there stands a town + 'Where learning may be purchas'd low-- +'Exchange his blanket for a gown, + 'And let the lad to college go.' + +From long debate the council rose, + And viewing Shalum's tricks with joy, +To _Harvard hall_[1], o'er wastes of snows, + They sent the copper-colour'd boy. +[Footnote 1: Harvard college, at Cambridge, near Boston.] + +One generous chief a bow supply'd, + This gave a shaft, and that a skin; +The feathers, in vermilion dy'd, + Himself did from a turkey win: + +Thus dress'd so gay, he took his way + O'er barren hills, alone, alone! +His guide a star, he wander'd far, + His pillow every night a stone. + +At last he came, with leg so lame, + Where learned men talk heathen Greek, +And hebrew lore is gabbled o'er, + To please the muses, twice a week. + +A while he writ, a while he read, + A while he learn'd the grammar rules.-- +An indian savage, so well bred, + Great credit promis'd to their schools. + +Some thought, he would in law excel, + Some said, in physic he would shine; +And one, that knew him passing well, + Beheld in him a sound divine. + +But those of more discerning eye, + E'en then could _other_ prospects show, +And saw him lay his Virgil by, + To wander with his dearer _bow_. + +The tedious hours of study spent, + The heavy-moulded lecture done, +He to the woods a hunting went, + But sigh'd to see the setting sun. + +No mystic wonders fir'd his mind; + He sought to gain no learn'd degree, +But only sense enough to find + The _squirrel in the hollow tree_. + +The shady bank, the purling stream, + The woody wild his heart possess'd; +The dewy lawn his morning dream + _In fancy's gayest colours dress'd._ + +'And why,' he cried, 'did I forsake + My native wood for gloomy walls? +The silver stream, the limpid lake, + For musty books and college halls? + +'A little could my wants supply-- + Can wealth and honour give me more? +Or, will the sylvan god deny + The humble treat he gave before? + +'Let seraphs reach the bright abode, + And Heav'n's sublimest mansions see:-- +I only bow to Nature's God-- + _The land of shades_, will do for _me_. + +'These dreadful secrets of the sky + 'Alarm my soul with chilling fear:-- +'Do planets in their orbits fly? + 'And is the Earth, indeed, a sphere? + +'Let planets still their aim pursue, + 'And comets round creation run-- +'In Him my faithful friend I view, + 'The image of my God--the Sun. + +'Where Nature's ancient forests grow, + 'And mingled laurel never fades, +'My heart is fix'd; and I must go + 'To die among my native shades.' + +He spoke,--and to the western springs + (His gown discharged, his money spent) +His blanket tied with yellow strings, + The shepherd of the forest went. + +Returning to the rural reign, + The Indians welcom'd him with joy; +The council took him home again, + And bless'd the copper-coloured boy. + +Our author, brings his hero again upon the stage, under the title of + + +THE SPLENETIC INDIAN. + +"To the best of my recollection, it was about the middle of the month of +August; we were sitting on a green bank by the brook side; the fox grapes +were not yet come to maturity; but we were anticipating the pleasure we +should soon experience in eating some fine clusters, that at this instant +hung over our heads in the tall shade of a beech tree; when, upon a sudden +clamour raised by some young fellows, who were advancing rapidly towards +us, the learned Indian sachem Tomo-cheeki, who at this time happened to be +my friend and companion, seized me by the hand, and intimated a strong +desire, that I should accompany him to his _wigwam_, situate at many +miles distance in the wilderness. + +"A request so unusual, and at such a sultry season of the year (it being +now the height of the dog days), and to all appearance occasioned by so +trifling a circumstance as the approach of a few noisy bacchanalians, +could not but give me some surprise. I nevertheless accepted his offer, +and we then walked on together westward, without saying a word, though not +forgetting to kindle our pipes afresh at the first house we came to. + +"We had no sooner entered the forest, than I began to be convinced, that +all things around us were precisely such as nature had finished them; the +trees were straight and lofty, and appeared as if they had never been +obliged to art in their progress to maturity; the streams of water were +winding and irregular, and not odiously drawn into a right line by the +spade of the ditcher. The soil had never submitted to the ploughshare, and +the air that circulated through this domain of nature was replete with +that balmy fragrance, which was breathed into the lungs of the long-lived +race of men, that flourished in the first ages of the world. + +"At last we approached the wigwam, as I discovered by the barking of a +yellow dog, who ran out to meet us. The building seemed to be composed of +rough materials, and at most was not more than eight feet in height, with +a hole in the centre of the roof, to afford a free passage to the smoke +from within. It was situate in a thicket of lofty trees, on the side of a +stream of clear water, at a considerable distance from the haunts of +civilized men. A young indian girl was angling in the deepest part of the +stream, whence she every now and then drew a trout, or some other +inhabitant of the waters. An old squaw sat at a very small distance, and, +after cutting off the heads, and extracting the entrails, hung the fish in +the smoke, to preserve them against the time of winter. + +"The Indian and myself then entered the wigwam, and without ceremony +seated ourselves on blocks of wood covered with fox skins. The furniture +of his habitation consisted of scarcely any thing besides. The flooring +was that which was originally common to all men and animals. I thought +myself happy, that I had been permitted to come into the world, in an age +when some vestige of the primitive men, and their manners of living, were +yet to be found. A few ages will totally obliterate the scene. + +"I now determined to teaze the Indian, if possible--'But for a man of your +education,' says I, 'sachem Tomo-cheeki; to bury yourself in this savage +retreat, is to me inexplicable. You who have travelled on foot no less +than one hundred and seventeen leagues, till you reached the walls of +Havard college, and all for the sake of gaining an insight into languages, +arts, and mysteries; and then to neglect all you have acquired at last, is +a mode of conduct, for which I cannot easily account--What! was not the +mansion of a fat _clergyman_ a more desirable acquisition than this +miserable hut, these gloomy forests, and yonder savage stream?--Were not +the food and liquor belonging to the white men of the _law_ far superiour +to these insipid fish, these dried roots, and these running waters?--Were +not a _physician's_ cap, an elegant morning gown, and a grave suit of +black clothes, made by an european tailor, more tempting to your +imagination, than this wretched blanket, that is eternally slipping from +your shoulders, unless it be fastened with skewers, which are by no means +convenient?' + +"Pardon me,' replied the Indian, 'if all those blessings and advantages +you have mentioned seemed nothing to my view, in comparison with these +_divine solitudes_: opinion alone is happiness. The _Great Man_, +who has chosen his habitation beyond the stars, will dispose of us as he +pleases. I am under an obligation of passing happily here that life which +he has given me, because in so doing I serve and adore him. I could not +but be sorrowful, were I to be removed for ever from this stream. Let me +alone, white man; others shall make laws, and pass sleepless nights, for +the advantage of the world; sachem Tomo-cheeki will leave all things to +the _invisible direction_; and, provided he can be contented in his +_wigwam_, the end of his existence is accomplished. + +"But,' continued he, 'of what great value can that education be, +which does not inculcate moral and social _honesty_ as it's first and +greatest principle. The knowledge of all things above and below is of +inconsiderable worth, unconnected with the heart of rectitude and +benevolence.--Let us walk to the remains of an old indian town; the bones +of my ancestors repose in its vicinity.'-- + +"He had scarcely uttered these words when he seized his staff, and rushed +out of the wigwam with a sort of passionate violence, as if deeply +agitated at the recollection of the past, present, and future fate of his +countrymen.--I followed him with equal celerity. 'But,' said he, 'it is in +vain to grieve! In three centuries there will not be one individual of all +our race existing upon the Earth. I lately passed this stream, and it +being swollen with rains at my return, I could not without the greatest +danger cross over it again to my wigwam; the winds raged, the rain fell, +and the storms roared around me. I laid me down to sleep beneath a copse +of hazles. Immediately the unbodied souls of my ancestors appeared before +me. Grief was in their countenances. All fixed their eyes upon me, and +cried, one after the other, "_Brother, it is time thou hadst also +arrived in our abodes: thy nation is extirpated, thy lands are gone, thy +choicest warriors are slain; the very wigwam in which thou residest is +mortgaged for three barrels of hard cider! Act like a man, and if nature +be too tardy in bestowing the favour, it rests with yourself to force your +way into the invisible mansions of the departed_." + +"By this time we had arrived at the ruins of the old indian town. The +situation was highly romantic, and of that kind which naturally inclines +one to be melancholy. At this instant a large heavy cloud obscured the +sun, and added a grace to the gloominess of the scene. The vestiges of +streets and squares were still to be traced; several favourite trees were +yet standing, that had outlived the inhabitants; the stream ran, and the +springs flowed, as lively as ever, that had afforded refreshment to so +many generations of men, that were now passed away, never to return. All +this while the Indian had melancholy deeply depicted in his countenance; +but he did not shed many tears, till we came to that quarter where his +ancestors had been entombed. 'This spot of land,' said he, recovering +himself a little, 'was once sacred to the dead; but it is now no longer +so! This whole town, with a large tract around it, not even excepting the +bones of our progenitors, has been sold to a stranger. We were deceived +out of it, and that by a man who understood Greek and Hebrew; five kegs of +whiskey did the business: he took us in the hour of dissipation, when the +whole universe appeared to us but a little thing; how much less then, this +comparatively small tract of country, which was, notwithstanding, our +whole dependance for the purposes of hunting and fishing!----Here,' +continued he, sighing, 'was the habitation of _Tawlongo_, one of our +most celebrated warriors. He, in his time, could boast of having gained no +fewer than one hundred and twenty-seven complete victories over his +enemies; yet he was killed at last by an unarmed _Englishman_. + +"Here, too, on the opposite side of the way, stood the house of +_Pilaware_, the admirable; she had been addressed by thirty-three suitors +of her own nation, but refused them all, and went off at last with an +_irish pedlar_, for the sake of three yards of silver riband, and a new +blanket. Yonder stood the dwelling of _Scuttawabah_, my immediate +ancestor; he died for joy of having found a keg of rum, that had been lost +by some western trader. May his joys be continued behind the western +mountains--Recollection overcomes me--Let us return to the wigwam in the +forest.' + +"As soon as we had reached this sequestered abode, the Indian once more +sat himself down, and leaned his head upon his hand, melancholy enough, to +be sure. + +"The old squaw desired to know why he was so sorrowful--The _remedy_,' +said she, _is in your power_.'--He then started up, as if suddenly +recollecting somewhat, and cried out, 'Existence is but a dream, an +agreeable dream indeed, if we only choose to consider it as such.--Bring +me that jug of strong cider; it will be my friend, when all others fail +and forsake me--Choicest gift of God to man! and which the white people +alone possess the art and knowledge of producing!'--He courteously offered +me a share of his beverage; but I found it so intolerably sour, that I was +forced to swear by all the gods of the Indians, I would not have any +connexion with it.--He then pointed to the stream where the girl was +angling, and said, with a peasant countenance that had brightened up for a +moment, 'Go; you are a _sober_ man; the clear waters are good for +you; for my own part, this juice of the apple shall be sufficient.'--Two +hours now elapsed, without any one uttering a word.--The Indian had by +this time drunk two large gallons of cider; and recollecting in an +instant, he had signed away his lands and wigwam, some days before, for a +_mere trifle_, he became at once outrageous; his rage heightened to +an alarming degree of extravagance by the strong fumes of the liquor he +had swallowed.--'_It is enough_,' said he; '_my house and lands are +departed: I will speak a word in favour of suicide_. + +"'Tis all in vain! These flowers, these streams, these solitary shades, +are nothing to me. I shall not offend the spirit of truth when I say, they +are odious in my eyes. Sixty times has the sun performed his journey of a +year, since I was first struck with the beauty of his yellow rays. Could I +be a witness of sixty yet to come, would there be any thing new, or which +I had not seen before? It is high time we should intrude ourselves into +the invisible abodes, when all things satiate and grow stale upon us here +below. I will this very night enclose myself in my wigwam, and, setting it +on fire, depart with the thin vapour that shall arise from the dried wood +of the forest, when piled around me--No, no,' continued he, tasting the +remains of his cider '_there is nothing new_; all is _old, stale; +and insipid_.' + +"At this instant an Indian trader alighted at the door. He appeared to +have come a considerable distance, and now proffered to barter a keg of +_french brandy_ for some beaver skins, he saw hanging out a post. + +"French brandy!' cried Tomo cheekily 'that must be something _new_.' + +"It is surely such,' replied the wandering trader, 'at least in this +remote wilderness.' + +"I will taste it, by Heaven,' said the Indian. + +"But will it not prove the falsehood of your position and assertion,' +interrupted I, 'that there is nothing _new under the sun? To him that +exists through all ages nothing can be strange or novel; with the +transitory race of man, the case is wholly different. Art and Nature are +combined in perpetually composing new forms and substances for his use and +amusement on the ocean of life_.' + +"The Divinity himself must surely reside in that precious liquor!' +exclaimed the Indian, after tasting it a second time; 'take all my skins +and furs; and when the dawn of the morning appears, return home, stranger, +and bring a fresh supply of this celestial beverage. My existence had +indeed begun to be a burden: I was meditating, to extricate myself by the +shortest method. I have now learned wisdom, and am convinced, that it is +_variety alone that can make life desirable."_ + + * * * * * + +In order to understand the following, I must inform you, F---- had been +telling the story of a love-distracted maid, somewhat similar to Sterne's +Maria. You will suppose her lately to have put an end to her existence.-- + +"We had not proceeded very far on our way, when we discovered a funeral +procession advancing towards us, headed by the parson of the parish in +which we were. He was a little man, dressed in black, with a scarf hanging +over his left shoulder.--Upon inquiry, we found they were proceeding to a +church about a league distant, where the corpse they attended was to be +deposited. + +"And to whom may this body belong?" said the _indian physician_, +addressing the man who walked in the rear of the procession. + +"It is the corpse of the unfortunate Marcia,' replied the other, speaking +low; 'she died suddenly, yesterday morning, and is now carrying to be +interred in the vault of her ancestors.' We were much affected at this +intelligence, as we had hoped to hear of her recovery, instead of her +decease. + +"At the request of my friend, the man in the white linen coat, the Indian +agreed to attend the funeral along with us, and accordingly we all three +fell in among the followers, and travelled on with a slow pace till we +came to the scene of interment. The situation was wild and gloomy. Naked +rocks, dark cedars, the head of a small lake, and the venerable tombs of +the dead, completed the scenery. + +"It was pity,' said I, 'to the singing clerk, who stood near me, 'that +Fate has so ordered matters, that this young creature should depart the +world in so very extravagant a condition of mind. Though too many pass +their whole lives in a state of insanity, it were to be wished, that, +towards the evening, the clouds of phrensy might be dissipated, and the +sun of reason set clear.' + +"The singing clerk looked full in my face, opened his mouth wide, and was +about to make some reply, when silence was ordered, that the clergyman +might pronounce a speech over the body; but his reverence stumbled at the +threshold: he had unluckily forgot his pocket Bible, and could not +recollect his _text_. + +"Cannot he say something applicable to the melancholy occasion,' whispered +the Indian, 'without the formality of taking a _text_?' + +"Were you to give him three worlds, each as rich as a dozen of the +Indies,' replied the clerk, 'you could not get a word out of him on any +other condition.' + +"The sexton of the parish was then ordered to mount one of the horses, and +make the best of the way to the good doctor's house, to bring the Bible. + +"After waiting a full and entire hour, he returned with the vexatious +intelligence, that the Bible was not to be found--it was stolen--or, it +was hid--or it had been _neglected_--or, it was mislaid--or they knew +not what had been done with it.--'More is the pity!' exclaimed the singing +clerk. + +"The doctor of divinity then mounted the horse himself, apparently with +some uneasiness, and set out personally to bring the Bible at all events. + +"By this time, however, the sun was set, and the whole company stood +waiting in anxious expectation of the clergyman's return, till darkness +had taken possession of the earth; but there was yet no appearance of +either the divine or his Bible. + +"As it is more than probable he cannot find his book,' said the man in the +white linen coat, 'I am positive he will not return at all; and, as it is +now almost dark, I am of opinion the sooner the funeral ceremonies are +finished the better. The body of the unfortunate Marcia ought not to be +deposited in these silent retreats of death without some living token of +our respect. She was amiable while living, and notwithstanding the +misfortune of a disordered brain, and an innocent, unsuspecting confidence +in another's honour, is, in my way of thinking, no less amiable when +dead.--Our friend, the Indian will, I know, be complaisant enough on this +occasion to give us a few sentences, and then the venerable sexton may +proceed to close the scene, and we shall be at liberty to return to our +respective homes.' + +"This man is not in holy orders,' cried the sexton. + +"He does not wear a black coat or gown,' said the singing clerk. + +"He has not a gray wig on his head, observed one of the church wardens. + +"It is no matter,' replied the man in the white linen coat, 'he has a +plain understanding, has written a treatise on the virtues of tobacco, and +knows what is common sense, as well as the best of you.' + +"Casting my eyes at this instant toward the east, I perceived a glimmering +among the trees, which proved to be the moon rising, two days after the +full. The evening was calm and serene, and every thing was hushed, except +the surge of the ocean, which we could distinctly hear breaking on the +rocks of the adjacent coasts; when, finding the parish clergyman did not +return, the Indian shook the dew from his blanket, stepped boldly upon a +tombstone of black marble, and, for reasons best known to himself, +preferring the Indian style on this occasion, he thus began:-- + +"Instead of these dismal countenances, why have we not a feast of seven +days? Instead of the voice of sorrow, why are not the instruments of music +touched by the hand of skill? Fair daughter of the morning! thou didst not +perish by slow decay. At the rising of the sun we saw thee; the ruddy +bloom of youth was then upon thy countenance; In the evening thou wert +nothing; and the pallid complexion of death had taken place of the bloom +of beauty.--And now thou art gone to sit down in the gardens that are +found at the setting of the sun, behind the western mountains, where the +daughters of the white men have a separate place allotted to them by the +spirit of the hills. As much as the mind is superiour to the body, so much +are those charming regions preferable to these which we now inhabit. Man +is here but an image of himself, the representation of an idea that in +itself is not subjected to a change. That which derived it's origin from +the dust shall indeed to the dust return; but the fine ethereal substance +does not cease to think, and shall be again employed by the immortal gods +to put the forms of things in motion. What was thine errour?--It was +nothing: the bow was too mighty for the string, and the foundation too +feeble for the fabric that was built upon it. All shall be right when thou +art arrived at the foot of the mountains, where the sound of the wintry +winds will not be permitted to reach thee, and where the light of the lamp +is not extinguished by the sickly blasts of autumn.---- + +_"What infernal stuff is this?'_ exclaimed the clergyman, who at this +period of the Indian's discourse had returned on a full gallop with a +large folio Bible before him: _'what infernal heretical trash is this, +with which my ears are insulted?--Miscreant, avaunt!'_ said he, addressing +the Indian, _'or I will teach you how to make speeches within the bounds +of my jurisdiction,'_ + +"The Indian then modestly stepped down from the tombstone, and the +legitimate clergyman took his place. After making a slight apology for his +stay, he read his text by the light from a horn lantern, which the clerk +held up to his nose, and then proceeded to mumble over a written discourse +upon the subject he had chosen, and which held him about half an +hour.--'In my country,' observed the Indian, 'they would make a more +_animated_ speech at the interment of a _favourite racoon_!' + +"'This divinity-monger is the angel of our church,' answered the man in the +white linen coat; 'and it is dangerous to criticise upon his productions, +especially as he considers every one to be in the wrong, who does not +precisely fall in with his own opinions in matters appertaining to +religion.' + +"'Weak men are always arrogant, positive, and self-conceited,' replied the +Indian. + +"'Let us hasten home,' whispered the man in the white linen, coat, 'for the +night begins to wear apace." + + * * * * * + +Before the following lines are read, represent to yourself, that some of +the tribes of Indians bury their dead in a sitting posture.-- + + + +LINES +OCCASIONED BY A VISIT TO +AN OLD INDIAN BURYING-GROUND. + +In spite of all the learn'd have said, + I still my old opinion keep, +The _posture_ that _we_ give the dead, + Points out the soul's eternal sleep. + +Not so the ancients of these lands:-- + The Indian, when from life releas'd, +Again is seated with his friends, + And shares again the joyous feast. + +His imag'd birds, and painted bowl, + And ven'son for a journey drest, +Bespeak the _nature_ of the soul-- + _Activity_, that wants no rest. + +His bow for action ready bent, + And arrows with a head of bone, +Can only mean that life is spent, + And not the finer essence gone. + +Thou, stranger, that shalt come this way, + No fraud upon the dead commit; +Yet, mark the swelling turf, and say, + 'They do not _lie_, but here they _sit_' + +Here still a lofty rock remains, + On which the curious eye may trace +(Now wasted half by weiring rains) + The fancies of a ruder race. + +Here still an aged elm aspires, + Beneath whose far projecting shade +(And which the shepherd still admires) + The children of the forest play'd. + +There oft a restless indian queen, + (Pale Marian, with her braided hair) +And many a barb'rous form, is seen, + To chide the man that lingers there. + +By midnight moons, o'er moist'ning dews, + In vestments for the chace array'd, +The hunter still the deer pursues-- + The hunter and the deer--a shade. + +And long shall tim'rous fancy see + The painted chief, and pointed spear, +And, _Reason's self_ shall bow the knee + To shadows and delusions here. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, September 22d, 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I find from a perusal of the english papers, that fencibles are raising in +all parts of the country, and every precaution taking, to put the kingdom +in the best state of defence, in case of an invasion. I have for some +years thought a few regiments of riflemen would much contribute to this +desirable end. + +Some lessons I have received in the use of the rifle, from back woodsmen, +since my arrival in America, have confirmed me in this opinion. + +I know it will be objected, that the rifle is not a fair weapon. Perhaps +it is not.--I should be sorry to see it in general use in the european +armies: but surely it may be used to repel an invader, without any +infringement of the Law of Nations. + +What I would recommend to Government on this subject is, first, + + +OF FORMING THE CORPS. + +Beside the officers who have paid any attention to this method of fighting +during the last war in America, some of the most experienced back woodsmen +and indian chiefs should be sent for from Canada. + +Independent of the regiments on the ordinary establishment, I would +recommend one of _select men_, with better pay, &c., to be formed +from the other rifle corps; _merit_ being the only recommendation. + +Volunteer companies, in different parts of the country, might soon be +formed, composed of gentlemen, sportsmen, gamekeepers, &c. Proper persons +should make the circuit of the kingdom, to instruct them in some of the +most necessary particulars; such as loading, with the proper use of the +patch; to draw a level, making a just allowance for distance, &c. + + +OF RIFLES. + +I would by no means recommend _contract_ let proper encouragement be +given to gun-smiths, to supply rifles of the best construction, _loading +from the muzzle_.--Their being of an uniform length, or bore, is of no +consequence, as every man should cast and cut his own ball. + +The barrel, mounting, and lock, should be covered with a composition, to +render them as dull, and as little discernible, as possible. The locks +should always be in the very best firing order, and constructed to give +fire as easily as the nature of the service will admit. Oil, for the +inside of the rifle, should be regularly served; and the flints should be +of a much better quality than those used in muskets. + + +POWDER. + +Every thing depends upon this article's being of an uniform degree of +strength: it should be of the best quality, but not glazed. + + +ACCOUTREMENTS AND DRESS, + +Cannot be better than those used by the rifle corps in this country, +except perhaps that the latter should be of a dusky green, the colour died +in the Highlands of Scotland for plaids; even the cap should be of this +colour: a sort of helmet, constructed so as to afford a rest to fire from, +when lying on the belly. + + +EXERCISE, &c. + +It may perhaps be presumption in me to say any thing on this subject; but +I cannot help thinking it should be the _reverse_ of what is used in +the Line. They should be encamped as much as possible in a woody country, +as the art of _freeing_, as the back woodsmen call it, is one of +their best manoeuvres. Their whole time should be taken up in the +_real_ study of their profession, not in powdering, pipeclaying, +blacking, polishing, and such military fopperies. + +The rifle out of the question, I do not think _slow, deliberate firing_ +sufficiently attended to in the english army. Want of ammunition first +introduced it into this country at Bunker's Hill, and afterward at +Sullivan's Island. The carnage that ensued was a fatal proof of it's +efficacy. + +I have often thought, that the success of our navy was in a great measure +owing to _cool, deliberate firing_; and there is no doubt but that the +military fame of our ancestors was owing to their great superiority in +shooting the long bow; for the exercise of which, butts were erected in +every village in the kingdom.-- + +From + +Yours, &c + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, February 12th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Were I to characterise the _United States_, it should be by the +appellation of the _land of speculation_. + +Such has been the rapid rise of every article of american produce, of +house-rent, and land (to say nothing of mercantile speculation, great part +of the carrying trade of Europe being now in the hands of the Americans), +that surely there never was a country where that passion was so universal, +or had such unbounded scope. + +The last great purchase of land from the Indians, on the confines of +Georgia, was at the rate of a cent per acre; one hundred acres for a +dollar! + +Before the american war, flour, was sold at _two_ dollars, per barrel; it +is now selling at _fourteen_. + +But perhaps the most tempting speculation is that of the _mines_. Our +friend, Parsons, who is here looked upon as an agent to some english +speculators, has lately received the enclosed, which I begged a copy of, +for your perusal but should first inform you, the cheapest fuel you can +burn in some parts of America, is english coal from Liverpool! + +Farewell. + + +COPY OF A LETTER TO B. PARSONS. + +"SIR, + +"The coal mine, of which you requested, me to give you a description, is +situate in the county of Hampshire, on a spur or arm of the Allegany +mountains. At the foot of this, within the distance of one mile, is the +river Patowmack, at the confluence of it's north branch with the Savage +river. To this point, the Patowmack Company, incorporated for this +purpose, intend to extend their navigation, and have already perfected it +within the distant of six or seven miles. The work is going forward, and I +believe will be completed next summer. This being perfected, there will be +a good navigation for large flat-bottomed boats, within one mile of the +coal-bank, to which a good road may be had on the side of the mountain. + +"This immense body of coal, which lies not above two or three feet under +the surface of the earth, was discovered by the falling of a tree, the +roots of which brought up some pieces of coal. It has been made use of for +some years by the neighbouring blacksmiths, who have made a perpendicular +opening, about ten feet on this side of the mountain. Intending to +purchase this property, I employed a man about two years ago to dig about +twelve feel lower down than the first opening, and found nothing but a +solid body of coal, of an excellent quality. I am inclined to think it +extends to the bottom of the mountain, and may be procured with so much +ease, that one hand, as I am assured, could deliver three hundred bushels +a day. + +"From the information I have received, there is a body of iron ore within +seven or eight miles of the coal-bank; and I expect a very advantageous +situation for water-works might be found at the confluence of the North +Branch and the Savage. Among the great objects contemplated by the +Patowmack Company in clearing the navigation of that extensive river, was +that of forming an easy communication between the eastern and western +waters, which you know are divided by the Allegany Mountains. The space +that separates them at present is about sixty miles; but when the +obstructions to the navigation down the Patowmack, which, passing through +an extensive and fertile country, leads to the seat[Footnote: The writer +means _intended_ seat of federal empire.] of federal empire; and +thence widening by degrees to the width of twelve miles, empties itself +into the bay of Chesapeak. + +"Should any of your friends in England incline to form an establishment +here, in the smaller branches of non manufactory, I should he glad to +treat with them on terms mutually beneficial. + +"Yours, &c." + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia June 27th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +"In some part of the middle states, a climate similar to that of England +may easily be found." + +Inform our old acquaintance H----, that if he emigrates to America on the +strength of this assertion of Cooper, (on which, you tell me he so much +depends), he will, on his arrival, find himself egregiously mistaken. The +sameness of latitude does not always indicate similarity of temperature: +there are many other causes, which contribute to make this a very +different climate from that of Great Britain. + +The middle states of North America are hotter and colder _at intervals_, +not only than England, but than any part of the Old Continent, under the +same parallel of latitude. + +Jefferson says, "Our changes from heat to cold are sudden and great. The +mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer has been known to descend from 92 to +47, in thirteen hours." + +And I copied the following from a New York paper:-- + +"Wednesday, the 14th of May, the mercury in Fahrenheit rose to 91 degrees, +The Saturday night following, there was a severe frost. The next Tuesday +and Wednesday, the mercury rose to 85 degrees; from the 20th to the 26th, +it has been nearly stationary, varying only from 60 to 64.: Easterly wind, +and rain." + +These violent transitions from heat to cold, are produced by means of the +N.W. wind, which in this country is the most keen and severe of any that +is to be met with on the face of the globe. It is much the most prevalent +wind we have, and seldom fails to blow four or five days with great +uniformity. This wind is perfectly _dry_, and so uncommonly penetrating, +that I am convinced it would destroy all the plagues of Egypt in a very +short time. You may recollect, I informed you of the astonishing effect of +this powerful agent in stopping the yellow fever in a few hours, last +year, at Baltimore. + +Neither the prevalence, nor uncommon severity of this wind has been +properly accounted for; but we may now expect something more satisfactory +on this subject, from the celebrated Volney; who is here endeavouring to +investigate the causes of this, and other phenomena, relative to the winds +of this continent. + +Our heats in summer are sometimes very great; but the excess seldom +exceeds three days; the rotation is generally as follows; the first day +perhaps the mercury rises to 86, the next to 90, and the 3rd to 97, and +sometimes, though very rarely, to upward of 100 then comes a thunder gust, +which restores the air to it's usual summer temperature, till another +three days period of excessive heat begins and ends in the same manner, at +intervals, through the season. The succession of the degree of cold in +winter is exactly the same: I never knew the excess exceed three days; not +that we have then a thaw but that the weather is moderate, till another +excess commences of three days. + +On these occasions the mercury _sometimes_ descends to 10 or 12 degrees +below 0. Rivers a mile broad are frozen over in one night, and the bay of +Chesapeak traversed in waggons and sleighs! + +Though this climate, compared with that of England, is not in my opinion +on the whole so good, yet it possesses many advantages, such as the +clearness of the atmosphere, greater equality of the length of the days, +and _certainty_ of settled weather; for though the transitions are more +_violent_, they are by no means so _frequent_ as in England; where you +have the wind from every point of the compass, and experience all the +seasons of the year in twenty-four hours! + +Recollect these observations on the climate of America are confined to the +_middle states_, including Virginia in this description. Those of the +north, and south, are _somewhat_ different; but I am informed +the country to the S.W. of the Allegany Mountains is _materially +different_. The distance the N.W. wind has to travel to this country, +and the opposition it meets with from those mountains, in a great measure +meliorates and destroys those penetrating qualities, which make this wind +so formidable to the Atlantic States. I have heard so many extraordinary +accounts of the South-western territory, that I have long made up my mind +to visit that country: two _trifling_ reasons alone prevented me; +viz. want of _time_ and _money_; and from some disagreeable +intelligence I have lately received from _Wells_, instead of climbing +the _Allegany,_ I apprehend I shall soon be obliged to cross the +_Atlantic;_ in which case, I shall have the pleasure of returning you +thanks in person for your obliging attention to my order concerning +the........... which I received by the Peggy. + +At present I must content myself by assuring you of my being + +Your obliged friend, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, September 13th, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I write this in my way to Boston, where I am going to fulfil my engagement +with W----, the particulars of which I informed you of in a former letter. + +When I arrived at Newcastle, I had the mortification to find upwards of +one hundred irish passengers on board the packet. + +For some time before I left Baltimore, our papers were full of a shocking +transaction, which took place on board an irish passenger ship, containing +upwards of three hundred. It is said, that, owing to the cruel usage they +received from the captain, such as being put on a _very scanty_ allowance +of water[Footnote: By a law of the United States, the quantity of water +and provision every vessel is obliged to take (in proportion to the length +of the passage and persons on board) is clearly defined. A master of a +vessel violating this law forfeits five hundred dollars.] and provision, a +contagious disorder broke out on board, which carried off great numbers; +and, to add to their distress, when they arrived in the Delaware, they +were obliged to perform quarantine, which, for some days, was equally +fatal. + +The disorder was finally got under by the physicians belonging to the +Health Office. We had several of the survivors on board, who confirmed all +I had heard: indeed their emaciated appearance was a sufficient testimony +of what they had suffered. They assured me, the captain sold the ship's +water by the pint; and informed me of a number of shocking circumstances, +which I will not wound your feelings by relating. + +It is difficult to conceive how a multitude of witnesses can militate +_against_ a fact; but more so, how three hundred passengers could +tamely submit to such cruelties, from a bashaw of a captain. + +I am happy to inform you the Philadelphia Hibernian Society are determined +to prosecute this _flesh butcher_ for _murder_; As the manner of +carrying on this _trade_ in human flesh is not generally known in +England, I send you a few particulars of what is here emphatically called +a _white Guinea man_. There are vessels in the trade of Belfast, +Londonderry, Amsterdam, Hamburgh, &c., whose chief _cargoes_, on +their return to America, are passengers; great numbers of whom, on their +arrival, are _sold_ for a term of years to pay their passage; during +their servitude, they are liable to be _resold_, at the death or +caprice of their masters. Such advertisements as the following, are +frequent:-- + +"To be disposed of, the indentures of a strong, healthy, _irish woman_; +who has two years to serve, and is fit for all kind of house work.-- +Enquire of the printer." + + +"_Stop the villain!_ + +Ran away this morning, an irish servant, named Michael Day, by trade a +tailor, about five feet eight inches high, fair complexion, has a down +look when spoken to, light bushy hair, speaks much in the irish dialect, +&c.:--Whoever secures the above described, in any gaol, shall receive +thirty dollars reward, and all reasonable charges paid.--_N.B._. All +masters of vessels are forbid harbouring, or carrying off the said servant +at their peril." + +The laws respecting the _redemptioners_[Footnote: The name given to these +persons.] are very severe; they were formed for the english convicts +before the revolution. There are lately hibernian, and german societies, +who do all in their power, to mitigate the severity of these laws, and +render their countrymen, during their servitude, as comfortable as +possible. These societies are in all the large towns south of Connecticut. +In New England they are not wanting, as the _trade_ is there prohibited. +The difficulty of hiring a tolerable servant induces many to _deal_ in +this way. Our friend S---- lately bought an irish girl for three years, +and in a few days discovered he was likely to have a greater _increase of +his family_ than he bargained for; we had the laugh sadly against him on +this occasion; I sincerely believe the jew regrets his new purchase is not +a few shades darker. If he could prove her a _women of colour_, and +produce a bill of sale, he would make a slave of the child as well as the +mother! The emigration from Ireland has been this year very great; I +left a large _vessel_[Footnote: These vessels frequently belong to +Philadelphia, but land their passengers here, as there is a direct road to +the back parts of Pennsylvania.] full of passengers from thence at +Baltimore: I found _three_ at Newcastle: and there is _one_ in this city. +The number of passengers cannot be averaged at less than two hundred and +fifty to each vessel, all of whom have arrived within the last six weeks! + +While the yellow fever was raging in this city, in the year 1793, when few +vessels would venture nearer than Fort Miflin; a german captain in _this +trade_ arrived in the river, and hearing that such was the fatal nature of +the infection, that a sufficient number of nurses could not be procured to +attend the sick for any sum, conceived the philanthropic idea of supplying +this deficiency from his _redemption passengers!_ actuated by this _humane +motive_, he sailed boldly up to the city, and _advertised_[Footnote: I +have preserved this advertisement, and several others equally curious.] +his _cargo_ for sale:-- + +"A few _healthy_ servants, generally between seventeen and twenty-one +years of age; their times will be disposed of, by applying on board the +brig." + +Generous soul! thus nobly to sacrifice his _own countrymen, pro bono +publico_. I never heard this _honest_ german was _properly_ rewarded; but +virtue is it's own reward, and there is no doubt but the consciousness of +having performed _such_ an action is quite _sufficient_; at least, it +would be to + +Yours, &c., + + * * * * * + +_Boston, September 23rd, 1797._ + + +DEAR FRIEND, + +I set out for New York on the afternoon of the 16th. We had a pleasant +journey, over a rich and well cultivated tract of country, to Bristol. We +soon after crossed the Delaware, in a scow constructed to carry the stage +and horses over in a few minutes, without even taking the latter from the +carriage. We then entered the state of Jersey, and slept at Trenton, which +we left before sunrise the next morning; a circumstance I regretted, as I +wished to see the falls of the river Delaware in that neighbourhood, which +I am informed are worthy the attention of a traveller. + +Our journey across the Jerseys was pleasant; but the land is by no means +so rich as on the other side of the Delaware. Pennsylvania is, in my +opinion, justly called the Garden of America, at least of the United +States _East_ of the Allegany Mountains. We dined at New Brunswick, +where there is a wooden bridge, with stone piers, thrown over a broad and +rapid river. Our landlord informed us, several englishmen assured him, "It +was _very like_ Westminster Bridge." Though my conscience would not +permit me, _exactly_ to chime with my countrymen, it is but justice +to acknowledge, that when the infant state of the country is considered, +it is a work of equal magnitude, boldly designed, and neatly executed. + +About four in the afternoon, we embarked in a small vessel for New York, +which is situate on an island, in a bay, formed by the conflux of two +large rivers, the Hudson or North, and the East river. + +The city covers the south end of the island, and, as you approach it in +that direction from the Jersey shore, seems like Venice, gradually rising +from the sea. The evening was uncommonly pleasant; the sky perfectly clear +and serene, and the sun, in setting with all that vivid warmth of +colouring peculiar to southern latitudes, illuminated some of the most +beautiful scenery in nature, on the north river, and adjacent country. For +some minutes all my faculties were absorbed in admiration of the +surrounding objects! I never enjoyed a prospect more enchanting; but this +pleasure was of short continuance; I unfortunately cast my eyes towards +the city, and immediately recollected _two words_ I heard in the +Jerseys (yellow fever); at which the delusion vanished! + +_New York, Sept. 18th_.--My Jersey intelligence was too true; but the +disorder is chiefly confined to one part of the city, and is effectually +prevented from spreading at present by the N.W. wind, which is set in this +morning with uncommon severity; a circumstance which sometimes happens at +this season of the year, and is of long continuance. This kind of weather +the Indians call _half_ winter. Unfortunately for the Philadelphians, +they had no half winter in the year 1793.--I spent this day in surveying +the city, which, as well as the manners of the inhabitants, is more like +England than any other part of America. New York is a London in miniature, +populous streets, hum of business, busy faces, shops in style, &c. + +_Sept. 25th,_--I spent this day in viewing the city with increasing +admiration: It is certainly one of the first maritime situations in the +world. The extensive settlements on the banks of the Hudson, which +is navigable upwards of two hundred miles, amply supplies the city +with exports and provision. The inhabitants boast of having the best +fish-market in the United States; their own oyster-beds, and their +vicinity to the _New England states_, give them this advantage[Footnote: +There are fish on the coast of America which have certain boundaries, +beyond which they never go; salmon, for instance, is never found south of +a river in Connecticut; and certain southern fish never visit the New +England coast.].--The governor's house, new theatre, and tontine coffee +house, are magnificent buildings; the public walks well laid out, and +pleasantly situate. + +One advantage this city possesses peculiar to itself; you may be as much +in the country as you can desire for five farthings english money: the +fare is no more to Long Island, where you may be conveyed, from the heart +of the city, in a few minutes, and meet with as great a variety of hill +and dale, wood and water, as in any part of the world. This island is +ninety miles in length. + +_Sept. 19th_.--I intended proceeding to Boston, by the way of Rhode +Island, as I was informed the passage through _Hell Gates_[Footnote: +A dangerous strait, between stupendous rocks.] and the Sound is very +pleasant at this season; but the fear of being obliged to perform a +quarantine at my arrival prevented me. I set off this morning, in the +stage. Our course lay the whole length of the island, which is barren and +rocky; affording some romantic situations, in several of which I observed +(to use a cockney phrase) _snug little boxes_; these, I was informed, +belonged to the wealthy citizens; they commanded a view of the city, the +North River, the Sound, and adjacent islands. + +At noon we entered Connecticut, the most southerly of the New England +states. Slept at Fairfield. + +On the night of the 20th we reached Hertford, the capital of the state.-- +About five miles from it, a house was pointed out to me, where a very +shocking circumstance took place a few years ago.--A merchant, not being +able to bear a change in his circumstances from affluence to extreme +poverty, coolly and deliberately shot his wife and five children, and +afterward himself. He tried every means, for several days, to send his +wife away; but she preferred dying with him and the children. He left a +paper on the table, informing his friends, that his only motive for +committing this rash action was to rescue his family from a situation, +which he himself found insupportable. + +_Sept. 21st._--We this afternoon entered the state of Massachusetts. +I found New England very different from any part of America I had before +seen; the soil but very indifferent, rocky, and mountainous, interspersed +with some rich tracts of land in the valleys; the up lands are divided by +means of stone walls, as in Derbyshire, and some other parts of Great +Britain. + +They have few negroes, or european emigrants; so far from wanting the +latter, as in the South, they send great numbers every year to the new +settlements in the South-west. + +When we made any stay at a tavern on the road, I observed one of my +fellow travellers (who was very eloquent upon this subject) take every +opportunity of singing forth the praises of _New Virginia_[Footnote: A +rich tract of country, west of the Allegany Mountains.].--The north-west +wind continuing, the morning of the 22d was very cold; and we breakfasted +with a number of strangers. Our orator did not lose this opportunity of +holding forth on his favourite topic. I recollect the latter part of his +harangue was to the following effect:--_"There,"_ says he, (while the New +Englanders were staring with their _mouths open_,) "when I clear a fresh +lot of land on any of my plantations, I am obliged to plant it six or +seven years with hemp, or tobacco, before it is sufficiently _poor_ to +bear wheat! My indian corn grows twelve or thirteen feet high; I'll dig +four feet deep on my best land, and it shall then be sufficiently rich to +_manure_ your barren hills; and as to the climate, there is no comparison: +this cursed cold north-west wind loses all it's severity before it reaches +us; our winters are so mild, that our cattle requite no fodder, but range +the woods all winter; and our summers are more moderate than on your side +the Allegany; and as to----" Here the stage-driver put an end to his +oration, by informing us, all was ready to proceed on our journey. + +We must not be surprised, that numbers, who cultivate an ungrateful soil +in this cold climate, should be induced, by such descriptions as the +above, to emigrate to our orator's land of promise, I am informed ten +thousand persons emigrated from these states to Kentucky _alone_, in +one year. I have lately seen a flattering description of this country, +published in London: that the accounts are exaggerated, I have no doubt, +as it is said to be written by a speculator; deeply interested in the sale +of lands in the new settlements. I had a strong suspicion our fellow +traveller was of this description, and took every opportunity to +cross-examine him on this subject; he stuck true to his text, insisted +that all he advanced was literally true, but acknowledged he was going to +receive a sum of money for land he had sold to some emigrants from the +province of Main, and that he expected to sell a considerable tract before +his return. I arrived at Boston the 23d instant, four hundred and +seventy-four miles from Baltimore. + +Yours, &c. + +_P.S._ I find we are to have a most vigorous theatrical opposition. A sort +of dramatic mania has lately seiz'd the inhabitants. The _primitive_ +Bostonians would as soon have admitted the plague as a company of players; +but the present inhabitants having more liberal sentiments, a company of +comedians came to this town about four years ago, and ventured to exhibit +dramatic pieces, under the title of _Moral Lectures_. At length a bill +passed the General Assembly of Massachusetts to licence theatrical +performances; and as it is natural for mankind to run from one extreme to +another, they have this year _two_ theatres, both of which are attended +with a prodigious expence. Some of the performers are engaged at upwards +of 20_l_. english per week; and Mrs. Whitlocke (sister to Mrs. Siddons, +whom you may perhaps recollect at the Haymarket) is to have 180_l_. +sterling for six nights. This opposition will in all probability end in +the ruin of the managers, or rather of the _subscribers, who are bound for +the payments_. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, October 3d, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +The first leisure day after my arrival here, I went to Bunker's Hill, +attended by two persons, who were spectators of the engagement, and were +kind enough to point out and explain a number of particulars I wished to +be acquainted with, for the purpose of enabling me to form a tolerable +idea of this famous action. If general Howe meant only to give the +_Yankies_ a specimen of british valour, and his contempt of them and their +intrenchment, he succeeded in both.--His enemies on this side the water +say, "they gave him a _Rowland_ for his _Oliver_; _that_ he paid _too +dear_ for this victory; _that_ a more prudent general would have found a +better place to land the troops, and a safer mode of attack; _that_ the +_price_ he paid for this little redoubt ought to have convinced him, he +could not afford even to _bid_ for Dorchester heights, if once the +Americans got possession of those hills; _that_ he should therefore have +fortified them _himself_; _that_----" But as nothing is easier than to +see all these _thats_ when it is _too late_, I shall plague you with no +more of them, but conclude with an inscription from a monument on the +scene of action. + +Yours, &c. + + "ERECTED, 1794, +By King Solomon's Lodge of Free Masons, +[Footnote: General Warren was a brother.] + constituted at Charlestown, 1783, + In Memory of + MAJOR GENERAL JOSEPH WARREN, + AND HIS BRAVE ASSOCIATES, + Who were slain on this memorable spot, + June 17th, 1775. + + +None but they, who set a just value on the + blessings of LIBERTY, are worthy to enjoy + her. +In vain we toil'd, in vain we fought, +We bled in vain, if you, our offspring, +Want valour to repel the assaults of her + invaders." + + + CHARLES TOWN settled 1628. + ------------ burnt 1775. + ------------ rebuilt 1776. + +_P. S._ I was yesterday introduced to Cox, the celebrated +bridge-architect: he is famous for throwing a bridge over waters, where, +from the _depth_ or _strength_ of the current, this operation was thought +impracticable. He always constructs his bridges of wood, and endeavours to +give as little resistance to the water as possible: his supporters are +numerous, but slender; and there is an interval between each. He tells me +this idea first struck him from reading Aesop's fable of the Reed and the +Oak: the reed, by _yielding_, was unhurt by a tempest, which tore up the +sturdy oak by the roots. + +Cox served his apprenticeship to a carpenter; and it was late in life +before he attempted bridge-building. He proved his new theory on a +small bridge in the country, which answering beyond his most sanguine +expectations, he delivered proposals for connecting Boston to the +continent, at Charleston, by means of a draw-bridge. His plan was by some +supposed to proceed from a _distempered brain_. It is usual for the +_ignorant_ to call a projector _insane_, when his schemes exceed +the bounds of _their shallow comprehensions_. + +After some time, a subscription was raised; and, to the confusion of his +enemies, he erected a bridge 1500 feet long, by 42 wide, where there was, +at the _lowest ebb_, 28 feet of water, and the flow of the tide was +from 12 to 16 feet _more_. But what is the most surprising, this +bridge has stood the shock of prodigious bodies of ice, sometimes three or +four feet in thickness; which are, every thaw violently forced against it +with a powerful current. He was rewarded with the sum of two hundred +dollars above his contract. He then went to Ireland, where he built seven +bridges; the largest was at Londonderry, 1860 feet long, by 40 wide; the +depth of water 37 feet, and the flow of the tide from 14 to 18 feet more. +He compleated this bridge so much to the satisfaction of the gentlemen who +employed him, that he was presented with a gold medal and one hundred +pounds above his contract. + +He speaks feelingly, and with gratitude, of the many favours he received +during his residence in that kingdom. + +Farewell, yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, October 9th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Boston is situate in latitude 42 deg. 23 min. north, on a small peninsula, +at the bottom of Massachusetts Bay. It was built in the manner cities were +in England, at the time this settlement was formed; that is to say, with, +the gable end of the houses in front, the streets are narrow, ill paved, +and worse lighted. But recollect, I do not include the New Town, or West +Boston, in this description; which, as well as those houses that have +lately been erected in the Old Town, are in the modern style. + +The harbour is one of the best in the States; and, as a sea port, Boston +possesses advantages superiour to any I have seen in America: being too +far to the north to have any thing to fear from the worms (see a former +letter from Annapolis); and so near the ocean, that the navigation is +open, when the ports of Philadelphia, Baltimore, and others, three or four +degrees more to the south, are entirely frozen. + +Several of the public buildings are well worthy the attention of a +Traveller. + +The New State House will, when finished, add considerably to the beauty of +the town. It is building on Beacon Hill, and commands a very extensive +view of the bay of Massachusetts, and adjacent islands. + +The long wharf is a bold design; it runs 1743 feet in a right line into +the bay, where there is, at the lowest ebb, 17 feet of water. On this +wharf are upwards of eighty large stores, containing merchandize to a +great amount. I could never view these buildings without astonishment at +the infatuation of the proprietors: they are, without a single exception, +of _wood_, and the roofs covered with cedar shingles; were a fire to +commence at either extremity with a brisk wind in the same direction, the +whole must infallibly be consumed. + +The new[Footnote: The _old_ theatre has not been erected five years. Our +opposition rages with great violence. Much ink has already been shed. One +third of the public papers are crammed with what is called _Theatrical +Critique_; but is in fact either the barefaced puff direct in favour of +_one_ theatre, or a string of abusive epithets against the _other_, +equally void of truth and decency. + +The dispute has lately taken _political_ turn. It seems ours is the +_aristocratic_ theatre. The _democrats_ at the New Theatre are commanded +by the _Moral Lecture_ manager. _Mr. Powell informs his fellow-citizens, +that on Monday evening will be performed the tragedy of the Battle of +Bunker's Hill_.--The English in this town affect to laugh at the eagerness +with which the Bostonians swallow certain passages of this play. I laugh +too, but _justice_ obliges me to confess, that _John Bull_ can swallow a +fulsome clap trap as voraciously at any _Yankee_ of them all.] theatre is +a stupendous wooden building, that will contain one tenth of the +inhabitants of the whole town. + +The favourite promenade of the Bostonians, is the Mall, which has trees on +each side, as in St. James's Park, London. This walk commands some +beautiful prospects of the adjacent continent. + +Immediately opposite is the village and university of Cambridge. + +To open an immediate communication between Boston and the university, the +New Bridge was built on the plan of Mr. Cox during his absence in Ireland; +a great undertaking, including the causeways, which are covered in +the same manner as the water. This bridge is within a few feet of a +_mile_ in length, by means of which, the bridge at Charleston, and +the neck of the peninsula, our communication with the continent is so +complete, that we feel but few inconveniences from our insular situation. +--We have a plentiful supply of provision. Our fish-market is an excellent +one: the following species are larger than I remember seeing them in +Europe; viz. hallibut, cod, mackarel, smelts, and lobsters. The first is +often brought to market weighing two hundred pounds. Dr. Belknap, in his +History of New Hampshire, says, that when full grown, they often exceed +five hundred pounds weight. The cod are from seventy to eighty pounds. +Mackarel _often_ exceed four, and lobsters _sometimes_ thirty-five +pounds weight. I have preserved a claw of one of the latter, which +weighed thirty pounds: this I shall bring home with me, lest my friends +should think that, in this particular, I take too liberal an advantage of +the _traveller's privilege_, which I assure you I do not, when I +subscribe myself + +Your sincere friend. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, December 27th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +There is no calamity the bostonians so much, and justly dread, as +fire. Almost every part of the town exhibits melancholy proofs of the +devastation of that destructive element. This you will not wonder at, when +I inform you that three fourths of the houses are built with _wood_, +and covered with _shingles_, thin pieces of cedar, nearly in the +shape, and answering the end of tiles. We have no regular fire-men, or +rather mercenaries, as every master of a family belongs to a fire-company: +there are several in town, composed of every class of citizens, who have +entered into a contract to turn out with two buckets at the first fire +alarm, and assist to the utmost of their power in extinguishing the +flames, without fee or reward. + +I awoke this morning about two o'clock by the cry of fire, and the +jingling of all the church bells, which, with the rattling of the engines, +call for water, and other _et caetera_ of a bostonian fire-alarm, +form a concert truly horrible. + +As sleep was impossible under such circumstances, I immediately rose, and +found the town illuminated. When the alarm is given at night, the female +part of the family immediately place candles in the windows. This is of +great service in a town where there are few lamps. + +I found the fire had broken out in one of the narrow streets, and was +spreading fast on all sides. I was much pleased with the regularity +observed by these _amateur_ fire-men. Each engine had a double row, +extending to the nearest water; one row passed the full, and the other the +empty buckets. The citizens not employed at the engines were pulling down +the adjacent buildings, or endeavouring to save the furniture; their +behaviour was bold and intrepid. The wind blew fresh at N.W.; and nothing +but such uncommon exertions could possibly have saved the town, composed, +as it is, of such _combustible_ materials. You will naturally inquire, +whether they have no other. Yes, brick and stone in great plenty; but the +cheapness of a frame, or wooden building, is a great inducement for the +continuance of this dangerous practice: but there is one still greater, +viz. a strange idea, universal in America, that wooden houses are more +healthy, and less liable to generate or retain contagious infection than +those of brick or stone. This notion has been ably controverted by one of +their best _writers_[Footnote: Jefferson, vicepresident of the United +States.], but with little effect; and, like all other deep-rooted +prejudices, will not easily be eradicated. + +Your papers have, I suppose, informed you of a set of diabolical +incendiaries having set fire to Savannah, Charleston, Baltimore, and New +York. The villainy of these infernals is likely to be productive of some +good. The inhabitants of Charleston have agreed to prohibit the erection +of wooden buildings in that city. The philadelphians had before come to +this prudent resolution, within certain limits, I was present when this +matter was agitated. It was violently opposed by the democratic party; who +insisted, that in a _free_ country, a man has a right to build his +house of what materials he pleases. "True," said I, "of _stone_-brimstone +--use gun-powder for lime, and mix it with spirit of turpentine," +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + +_P.S._ I thank you for the _Apology_. It has been already twice answered +in this country, or rather, the bishop has been as often abused; first, by +a deist of New York, for speaking too _favourably_ of the Bible; and +secondly, by a hot-headed frantic of New England; who, in a work he calls +_The Bible needs no Apology_, rails at his lordship for the _opposite +reason_, and consigns him to eternal damnation, for _not_ insisting on +_every sentence_ of scripture being the _inspired_ word of God. + + +_Boston, January 7th, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The states of Massachusetts and Connecticut were originally settled by +brownists, and other puritans, and were, for many years, an asylum for +dissenters of all denominations, who fled from persecution in Europe, to +exercise a still greater degree of intolerance themselves, when in power +in America. You have doubtless read or heard of the _Blue_ Laws of +Connecticut. Without insisting on the sanguinary code, said to be formerly +in force under this title, I shall briefly, and without connexion, +transcribe for you some extracts from Dr. Belknap, and others of their +_own_ writers on this subject; on the truth of which you may rely:-- + + +EXTRACTS. + +"Severe laws, conformable to the principles of the laws of Moses, were +enacted against all kinds of immorality. + +"Blasphemy, idolatry, unnatural lusts, rape, murder, adultery, +man-stealing, bearing false witness, rebellion against parents, were all +_equally_ made _capital_ crimes. The law against the latter was in these +words:--'If any child or children, above sixteen years of age, and of +sufficient understanding, shall curse or smite their natural father or +mother, he or they shall be _put to death. Exodus_ xxi, 17; _Lev._ x, 9.' + +"A law was passed to prohibit, under a severe penalty, the _smoking of +tobacco_, which was compared to the _smoke_ of the _bottomless pit_. +_Drinking_ of _healths_, and _wearing long hair_, were also forbidden, +under the same penalty: the first was considered as a heathenish and +idolatrous practice, grounded on the ancient libations. + +"Previous to putting the laws in execution against the latter, the +following proclamation was issued, and is now preserved among the records +at Havard College, Cambridge, near Boston:-- + +"Forasmuch as the wearing of long hair, after the manner of ruffians and +barbarous indians, has begun to invade New England, contrary to the rule +of God's word, _Corinthians_ xi, 14, which says it is a shame for a man to +wear long hair; as also the commendable custom generally of all the +_godly_ of our nation, until these few years; we, the magistrates who have +subscribed this paper, (for the showing of our own _innocency_ in this +behalf,) do declare and manifest our dislike and detestation against the +wearing of such long hair, as against a thing _uncivil_ and _unmanly_; +whereby men do deform themselves, and offend _sober_ and _modest_ men, and +do _corrupt good manners_. We do therefore, earnestly intreat all the +elders of this jurisdiction, as often as they shall see cause, to +_manifest their zeal_ against it in their public administrations, and to +take care that the _members_ of their respective churches be not _defiled +therewith_, that so, such as shall prove obstinate, and will not reform +themselves, may have God and man to witness against them. + +"The 3d month, 10th day, 1649. + +"_Jo. Endicott_, Governor. +_Tho. Dudley_, Dep. Governor +_Rich. Bellingham. +Rich. Salton Stall. +Increase Nowell. +William Hibbins. +Tho. Flint. +Rob. Bridges. +Simon Bradstreet_.' + +"Laws were made to regulate the intercourse between the sexes, and the +advances towards matrimony. They had a ceremony of betrothing, which +preceded that of marriage. _Pride_ and _levity_ came under the cognizance +of the magistrates. Not only the richness, but the mode of dress, and cut +of the hair, were subject to regulations. Women were forbidden to expose +their _arms_ or _bosoms_ to view. It was ordered, that their sleeves +should reach down to their _wrists_, and their gowns to be closed round +the _neck_. Women _offending_ against these laws were _presentable_ by the +_grand jury_. + +"The following were some of their favourite arguments in favour of +persecution. The celebrated Cotton, in a treatise published in 1647, +laboured to prove the lawfulness of the magistrate using the civil sword, +to extirpate _heretics_, from the command given to the jews, to put +to death _blasphemers_ and _idolaters!_ + +"After saying it was _toleration_, which made the world _antichristian_, +he concludes his work with this singular ejaculation:--'The Lord keep us +from being bewitched with the whore's cup, lest while we seem to reject +her with our profession, we bring her in by a _back door_ of _toleration_, +and so drink deeply of the cup of the Lord's wrath, and be filled with her +plagues!' + +"During a war with the eastern Indians, a council was called, and a +proposal made to draw upon them the _Mohawks_, their ancient enemy, though +then at peace: the lawfulness of this proceeding was doubted by some +_tender consciences_; but all their doubts vanished, when it was urged, +that _Abraham_ had entered into a confederacy with the _Amorites, among +whom he dwelt_, and made use of _their_ assistance in recovering his +kinsman _Lot_ from the hands of their _common enemy_." + + * * * * * + +"The quakers at first were banished; but this proving insufficient, a +succession of sanguinary laws were enacted against them; such as +imprisonment, whipping, cutting off the ears, boreing the tongue with a +red-hot iron, and banishment on pain of death. In consequence of these +laws, four quakers were put to death at Boston only; when their friends in +England procured an order from king Charles the Second, which put a stop +to _capital executions_." + +And now, friend Joseph, what do you think of these primitive christians? +When the _real_ Christian _William Penn_ arrived in America, what was _his +retaliation?_ He called his city _Philadelphia_, to perpetuate a memorial +of the cords of peace and good will, which bound him, and all his +followers, not only to one another, but even to his enemies at Boston, +were they inclined to come and settle with them.--The following words of +his proclamation ought to be written in letters of gold:-- + +"Because no people can be happy, if abridged of the freedom of their +consciences, as to their religious professions and worship; I do grant and +declare, that no person inhabiting this province, or territories, who +shall acknowledge one Almighty God, the Creator, Ruler, and Upholder of +the world, and live quietly under the civil government, shall in any case +be molested, or prejudiced in his person or estate because of his +conscientious persuasion or practice." + +But to return to New England; happily for these states, the revolution +has done away great part of the severity of their ancient laws; but +the inhabitants still retain a taste for scriptural phrases and allusions +in their writings. As you are fond of _poetry_, I send you two +specimens of this kind of writing; the first is from a tomb-stone at +_Plymouth_[Footnote: The oldest settlement north of Virginia.]. It was +written by one of the first settlers, and is in the true spirit of those +times.-- + + +EPITAPH UPON GENERAL ATHERTON. + +"Here lies our captain, and major, + Of Suffolk was withal, +A _godly_ magistrate was he, + And major general. +Two troops of horse came here, + (Such love his worth did crave;) +Ten companies of foot also, + Mourning, marched to his grave. +Let all that read be sure to keep + The _faith, as he has done_. +He lives now _crowned_ with _Christ_; + His name was Humphrey Atherton." + +In order to understand the second, I must inform you, it is usual for +boys, who expect christmas boxes, to present their masters' customers with +a copy of verses, expressive of their good wishes, &c. The call-boy of the +theatre, (a mechanic's son of this town,) had the following _verses_ +written in the usual style by the _poet_ commonly employed on these +occasions, and when printed, delivered one to each of the performers.-- + +"THE CALL-BOY OF THE THEATRE, +FEDERAL-STREET, +NEW YEAR'S WISH, 1797. + +"Look up, worthy friends, from yonder bright hills + See how Phoebus smiles, to hail the new year: +I bring you a tribute--rejoice thus to find, + So many are living, and meet with us here. + +"May health be confirm'd, and sickness remov'd; + May no sweeping flames take place in this state; +We sympathise deeply with neighbouring friends, + Whose cup has run over with this bitter fate. + +"May _teachers_ this day find _help from above_ + To publish glad news, as _heralds of grace_, +While _Zion_ is mourning her light shall break forth, + And shadows of midnight away from her chase. + +"I wish through this year _God's presence_ may smile + On all your just schemes at home or abroad; +I wish you his protection, by sea or by land; + May your _theatrical works_ find favour in _God_. +[Footnote: The boy must surely mean the _gods_.] + +"Gentlemen and ladies, accept these wishes sincere, + And I wish you all a happy new year." + +_Boston, January 1st, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +To answer your last, wherein you desire me to send you the exact state of +negro slavery in this country, is a task to which I am unequal. + +You will conceive the great difficulty of obliging you in this request, +when you are informed, that on this subject each individual state has it's +own laws. The only point in which they are unanimous, is to prohibit their +importation, either from the Coast of Africa, or the West Indies. I can +only inform you in general terms, that in the _southern states_ there +is little alteration in the negro code since the revolution; of course the +laws are nearly the same as in the British West India islands. In the +_middle states_, though negro slavery is allowed, their situation has +been considerably meliorated, by a variety of laws in their favour, some +tending to their gradual emancipation, others to render their servitude +less irksome, &c. + +Societies are formed in several of the large towns to enforce these +lenient laws, and to purchase the freedom of a few of the most deserving +slaves. The quakers, beside liberating all their negroes, have contributed +liberally towards the funds these societies have established, for carrying +their benevolent intentions into effect. In consequence of these measures, +there are a number of free negroes in Philadelphia, whose situation is +very comfortable. A handsome episcopalian church has been built for their +use, and one of the most respectable negroes ordained, who performs all +the duties of his office with great solemnity and fervour of devotion, +assisted occasionally by his white brethren; and there are also two +schools, where the children of people of colour are educated gratis; one +supported by the quakers, the other by the abolition society. + +Negro slavery, under any modification or form, is prohibited in this state +(Massachusetts,) also in New Hampshire, the province of Maine, and, _I +believe_, in all the _New England states_. + +As to your other queries respecting the negroes, I send you my sentiments, +infinitely better expressed by Jefferson, notwithstanding all that Imlay, +Wilberforce, and other authors, have written against his assertion, viz., +that "Negroes are _inferiour_ to the whites, both in the endowments of +_body_ and _mind_." I am clearly and decidedly of his opinion. A strict +attention to this subject, during three years residence in these states, +has convinced me of the truth of every tittle of the following extract +from his Virginia, which I enclose for your perusal, and am, most +sincerely, + +Yours, &c. + +"The first difference that strikes us is colour. Whether the black of the +negro reside in the reticular membrane, between the skin and scarf skin, +or in the scarf skin itself; whether it proceed from the colour of the +blood, the colour of the bile, or from that of some other secretion, the +difference is fixed in nature, and is as real as if it's seat and cause +were better known to us. And is this difference of no importance? Is it +not the foundation of a greater or less share of beauty in the two races? +Are not the fine mixtures of red and white, the expression of every +passion by a greater or less suffusion of colour in the one, preferable to +that eternal monotony, that immovable veil of black, which covers all the +emotions of the other race? Add to these, flowing hair, a more elegant +symmetry of form, their own judgment in favour of the whites, declared by +their preference to them, as uniformly as is the preference of the +oroonowtang for the black women over those of his own species? The +circumstance of superiour beauty is thought worthy attention in the +propagation of our horses, dogs, and other domestic animals; why not in +that of man? + +"Beside those of colour, figure, and hair, there are other physical +distinctions, proving a difference of race. They have less hair on the +face and body. They secrete less by the kidneys, and more by the glands of +the skin; which gives them a very strong and disagreeable odour. This +greater degree of transpiration renders them more tolerant of heat, and +less so of cold, than the whites. Perhaps a difference of structure in the +pulmonary aparatus, which a late ingenious experimentalist, (Crawford) has +discovered to be the principal regulator of animal heat, may have disabled +them from extricating, in the act of inspiration, so much of that fluid +from the outer air; or obliged them, in expiration, to part with more of +it. + +"They seem to require less sleep. A black, after hard labour through the +day, will be induced by the slightest amusement, to sit up till midnight, +or later, though knowing he must be out with the dawn of the morning. They +are at least as brave, and more adventurous; but this may proceed from +want of forethought, which prevents their seeing a danger till it be +present; when present, they do not go through it with more coolness and +steadiness than the whites. They are more ardent after the female; but +love seems with them more an eager desire, than a tender delicate mixture +of sentiment and sensation. Their griefs are transient. Those numberless +afflictions which render it doubtful, whether Heaven has given life to us +more in mercy, or in wrath, are less felt and sooner forgotten with them. +In general, their existence appears to participate more of sensation than +reflection. To this must be ascribed their disposition to sleep, when +abstracted from their diversions, or unemployed in labour. An animal, +whose body is at rest, and who does not reflect, must be disposed to sleep +of course. Comparing them by their faculties of memory, reason, and +imagination, it appears to me that in memory, they are equal to the +whites; in reason much inferiour. As I think one could scarcely be found +capable of tracing, and comprehending the investigations of Euclid; and +that in imagination they are dull, tasteless, and anomalous. It would be +unfair to follow them to Africa for this investigation. We will consider +them here, on the same stage with the whites. And where the facts are not +apocryphal on which a judgment is to be formed, it will be right to make +allowances for the difference of condition, of conversation, and of the +sphere in which they move. Many millions of them have been brought to, and +born in America. Most of them indeed have been confined to tillage, to +their own homes, and their own society; yet many have been so situate, +that they might have availed themselves of the conversation of their +masters; many have been brought up to the handicraft arts, and from that +circumstance have always been associated with the whites; some have been +liberally educated, and all have lived in countries where the arts and +sciences are cultivated to a considerable degree, and have had before +their eyes samples of the best work from abroad. The Indians with no +advantages of this kind, will often carve figures on their pipes, not +destitute of merit and design. They will crayon out an animal, a plant, or +a country, so as to prove the existence of a germe in their minds, which +only wants cultivation. They astonish you with strokes of the most +sublime oratory, such as prove their reason and sentiment strong, their +imagination glowing and elevated; but never yet could I find a black, that +had uttered a thought above the level of plain narration[Footnote: "Sleep +hab no massa," was the answer of a sleepy negro, who was told that his +massa called him.--See Edward's History of Jamaica, 2d Vol.]; never see +even an elementary trait of painting, or sculpture. In music they are more +generally gifted than the whites with accurate ears for tune, and time; +and they have been found capable of imagining a small catch[Footnote: "The +instrument proper to them is the _banjore_, which they brought here +from Africa, and which is the origin of the guitar, it's chords being +precisely the four lower chords of that instrument." J---- N.]. Whether +they will be equal to the composition of a more extensive run of melody, +or of complicated harmony[Footnote: From this circumstance, I conceive our +author's _catch_ was improperly so called.], is yet to be proved. +Misery is often the parent of the most affecting touches in poetry. Among +the blacks is misery enough, God knows, but no poetry. Love is the +peculiar oestrum of the poet: their love is ardent; but it kindles the +senses only, not the imagination. Religion, or rather fanaticism, +has produced a _Phyllis Wheatly_; but it could not produce a poet. +Ignatius Sancho has approached nearer to merit in composition; yet his +letters do more credit to the heart than the head; supposing them to have +been genuine, and to have received amendment from no other hand; points +which would not be easy of investigation. The improvement of the blacks in +body and mind, in the first instance of their mixture with the whites, has +been observed by every one, and proves their inferiority is not the effect +merely of their condition in life. + +"The white slaves, among the Romans, were often their rarest artists; they +excelled too in science, insomuch as to be usually employed as tutors to +their masters' children. Epictetus, Terence, and Phoedrus, were slaves. +Whether further observation will, or will not, verify the conjecture, that +Nature has been less bountiful to them, in the endowments of the head, I +believe in those of the heart she will be found to have done them justice. +That disposition to theft, with which they have been branded, must be +ascribed to their situation, and not to any depravity of the moral sense. +The man, in whose favour no laws of property exist, probably feels himself +less bound to respect those made in favour of others. When arguing for +ourselves, we lay it down as a fundamental, that laws, to be just, must +give a reciprocation of right; that without this, they are mere arbitrary +rules of conduct, founded in force, and not in conscience. And it is a +problem which I give the master to solve, whether the religious precepts +against the violation of property, were not formed for _him_, as well +as his slave, and whether the slave may not as justifiably take a little +from one who has taken _all_ from him, as he would slay one that +would slay him? + +"That a change in the relation in which a man is placed should change his +ideas of moral right and wrong, is neither new, nor confined to the +blacks; Homer tells us, it was so 2600 years ago:--'Jove fixed it certain, +that whatever day makes a man a slave, takes half his worth away.' But the +slaves Homer speaks of were whites. + +"But to return to the blacks. Notwithstanding this consideration, which +must weaken their respect for the laws of property, we find among them +numerous instances of the most rigid integrity; and as many as among their +better instructed masters, of benevolence, gratitude, and unshaken +fidelity. + +"The opinion that they are inferiour in the faculties of reason and +imagination, must be hazarded with great diffidence. To justify a general +conclusion requires many observations, even where the subject may be +submitted to the anatomical knife, to optical glasses, to analysis by fire +or solvents: how much more, then, when it is a faculty, not a substance, +we are examining; where it eludes the research of all the senses; where +the conditions of it's existence are various, and variously combined; +where the effects of those which are present or absent bid defiance to +calculation; let me add too, in a circumstance where our conclusions would +degrade a whole race of men from the rank in the scale of beings, which +their Creator may perhaps have given them! To our reproach it must be +said, though for a century and a half we have had under our eyes the races +of black and red men, they have never yet been viewed by us as subjects of +natural history. I advance it therefore as a suspicion only, that the +blacks[Footnote: Where Jefferson makes use of the word _Black_, in +this extract, it is rigidly confined to the _Negroes_ originally from +the coast of Africa, or their descendants.], whether originally a distinct +race, or made so by time and circumstances, are inferiour to the whites in +the endowments both of body and mind." + + * * * * * + +_Boston, December 29th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Upon my arrival here, I had once more the mortification to find myself in +the neighbourhood of the yellow fever, which had lately been imported. The +uncommon, early, and severe north-west winds entirely prevented it from +spreading; a fortunate circumstance for the inhabitants of Boston, as, +from the narrowness of their streets, great population, and other +circumstances, it must have been very fatal, had it not been by this means +destroyed. + +In order to give you the most regular account of this disorder I could +procure, I must repeat several circumstances from former letters. + +The yellow fever, which has lately been so fatal, is a _new disorder_, +first brought to the West Indies, in a slave-ship from the coast of +Africa, late in the year 1792. It spread rapidly from island to island, +and in July, 1793, was first imported to the continent in a french +schooner to Philadelphia. The physicians of that city, naturally +concluding it was the usual yellow fever of the West Indies, applied the +common remedies in that case: viz., bark, and other astringents. In nine +cases out of ten, death was the inevitable consequence to all who took +these medicines. The disease was equally fatal to the faculty. A universal +despondency took place, till doctor Rush, suspecting this was a new +disorder, applied an opposite method of cure, by mercurial medicines, and +copious bleedings; which, when administered in the first or second stage +of the disorder, had the desired effect. + +I send you an extract from the doctor's pamphlet, wherein he explains his +motives for adopting this method of cure, &c. + +Speaking of the effect of the lancet, he says, "It was at this time my old +master reminded me of Dr. Sydenham's remark, that _moderate_ bleeding +did harm in the plague, where _copious_ bleeding was indicated, and +that, in the cure of that disorder, we should leave Nature wholly to +herself, or take the cure altogether out of her hands." + +The truth of this observation was obvious:--By taking away as much blood +as restored the blood-vessels to a morbid degree of action, without +reducing this action afterward, pain, congestion, and inflammation, were +greatly increased; all of which were prevented, or occurred in a less +degree, when the system rose gradually from the state of depression which +had been induced by indirect debility. Under the influence of the facts +and reasonings which have been mentioned, I bore the same testimony in +acute cases against what was called _moderate_ bleeding, that I did +against bark, wine, and laudanum, in this fever.--I drew from many persons +seventy or eighty ounces of blood in five days. + + * * * * * + +After the cold weather had completely destroyed this disorder, it did not +appear again in the United States till the next year, when it was imported +to Baltimore and New Haven; a distance from each other of more than five +hundred miles. The cold weather again destroyed it, till carried, in 1795, +to Charleston and New York, equally distant from each other; and this +summer it was imported to Charleston, New York, Boston, and Newbery Port; +a distance of one thousand five hundred miles along the coast; but +fortunately the early N.W. winds destroyed it in all these places before +it had made any considerable progress. + +A quarantine upon vessels from the infected islands would effectually +prevent the importation of this plague; but if performed in the _literal +sense of the word_, it would materially hurt the West India trade of +the Americans. + +You have little to fear from this disorder being brought to England; +experience has clearly proved, this fever cannot exist in a _cold_ +climate; but was it to be imported to the south of Europe, the +consequences would be dreadful indeed. I before told you, the negroes were +not afflicted with the yellow fever, though universally employed as nurses +to the sick. + +A disease that will affect but _one_ species of men is not new. About the +year 1652, a very dreadful and uncommon plague ravaged this part of +America, and actually extirpated several nations of the Indians, without, +in a single instance, affecting the _white_ emigrants, though continually +among them. This strange circumstance the fanatics of New England +accounted for in their usual way, as appears from several of their +sermons, still preserved:-- + +"It was a just judgment of God upon these heathenish and idolatrous +nations; the Lord took this method of destroying them, that he might make +the more room for his _chosen people_." A _philosopher_ would perhaps +demand a better reason. Apropos of philosophers--An american writer has +been endeavouring to investigate the age of the world, from the _Falls of +Niagara!_ According to _his_ calculation (which, by the by, is not a +little curious) it is _36960_ years since the first rain fell upon the +face of the earth! + +Yours, &c. + + +_Boston, December 19th, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I before hinted to you, that the Americans pay very little attention to +their fisheries. + +Exclusive of the shad fishery, which is only two months in the year, there +is not _one_ individual, either in the city of Philadelphia, or it's +vicinity, who procures a livelihood by catching fish in the Delaware, +though that river abounds with sturgeon, perch, cat-fish, eels, and a vast +variety of others, which would meet with a sure sale in the Philadelphia +markets: but this is a trifle to their neglect of the greatest fishery in +the universe; for such certainly is that on the banks of Newfoundland. + +The Americans now being at peace with most of the piratical states +of Barbary, will find an excellent market for their fish in the +Mediterranean. This circumstance may induce congress to pay some attention +to the hints thrown out by Dr. Belknap, in his Account of the American +Newfoundland Fishery, which I transcribe for you perusal:-- + +"The cod-fishery is either carried on by boats or schooners. The boats in +the winter season go out in the morning, and return at night. In the +spring they do not return till they are filled. The schooners make three +trips to the banks of Newfoundland in a season; the first, or spring +cargo, are large, thick fish, which, after being properly salted and +dried, are kept alternately above and under ground, till they become so +mellow as to be denominated _dumb fish_. These, when boiled, are red, +and of an excellent quality; they are chiefly consumed in these states. +The fish caught in the other two trips, during the summer and fall, are +white, thin, and less firm; these are exported to Europe and the West +Indies; they are divided into two sorts; one called merchantable, and the +other Jamaica fish. + +"The places where the cod-fishery is chiefly carried on, are the Isle of +Shoals, Newcastle, Rye, and Hampton. The boats employed in this fishery +are of that light and swift kind called whale-boats; they are rowed either +with two or four oars, and steered with another; and being equally sharp +at each end, move with the utmost celerity on the surface of the ocean. +The schooners are from twenty to fifty tons, carry six or seven men, and +one or two boys. When they make a tolerable voyage, they bring over five +or six hundred quintals of fish, salted and stowed in bulk. At their +arrival, the fish is rinced in salt water, and spread on hurdles composed +of brush-wood, and raised on stakes three or four feet from the ground. +They are kept carefully preserved from the rain: they should not be wet +from the time they are first spread on the hurdle till they are boiled for +the table. + +"This fishery has not of late years been prosecuted with the same spirit +it was fifty or sixty years ago, when the shores were covered with +fish-flakes, and seven or eight ships were annually loaded for Spain or +Portugal, beside what was carried to the West Indies. Afterward they found +it more convenient to cure the fish at Corscaw, which was nearer to the +banks. It was continued there to great advantage till 1744, when it was +broken up by the french war. After the peace it revived, but not in so +great a degree as before. Fish was frequently cured in the summer on the +eastern shores and islands, and in the spring and fall at home. + +"Previously to the late revolution the greater part of remittances were +made to Europe by the fishery; but it has not yet recovered from the shock +which it received by the war with Britain: it is however in the power of +the Americans to make more advantage of the cod-fishery perhaps than, any +of the european nations. We can fit out vessels at less expense, and by +reason of the westerly winds, which prevail on our coasts in February and +March, can go to the banks earlier in the season than the Europeans, and +take the best fish. We can dry it in a clearer air than the foggy shores +of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. We can supply every necessary from among +ourselves; vessels, spars, sails, cordage, anchors, lines, hooks, and +provision. Salt can be imported from abroad cheaper than it can be made at +home, if it be not too much loaded with duties. Men can always be had to +go on shares, which is by far the most profitable way, both to the +employer and fisherman. The fishing banks are an inexhaustible source of +wealth; and the fishing business is a most excellent nursery for seamen; +it therefore deserves every encouragement and indulgence from an +enlightened and rational legislature." + + +_Boston, March 4th, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Being very busy in making preparation for my voyage to England, I have not +leisure to write you a long epistle, but enclose you one I sent to an +american friend in the south.--Farewell. + +This will most likely be the last letter you will receive from me on this +side of the Atlantic. The French have already taken two hundred sail of +american vessels. I hope my next may not be dated from _Brest_. + + + +_To Mr.--------,_ + +_State of--------._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In consequence of my promise at parting, I sit down to give you some +account of _Yankee Land_. You were perfectly right in telling me I +should find the New England states very different from your part of +America. + +The first object that would strike you is the population of the country. +In one day's journey through Connecticut, I saw as many towns, villages, +and houses, as I ever remember seeing, when travelling the same distance +in England; a prospect you _Buck-skins_ can have no idea of. + +The next is the beauty of the women, (I beg their pardon; that would be +the _first_ object that would strike _you!_) Their great superiority in +that respect may be accounted for, from their being of _engllsh_ descent. +Your women have not all that _advantage_, ('True english prejudice this!' +methinks I hear you mutter): great part are of _dutch_, or _german_ +descent. The close iron stoves they have introduced among you are terrible +enemies to beauty. Why you so obstinately persist in a custom so +prejudicial to health, I cannot imagine. Your plea, that the coldness of +the climate makes them indispensable, I can-not admit of; you know, that +we are here three degrees to the north of you, and that the present is the +coldest winter since the year 1780-81; and yet I have not seen a close +stove since I left New York. The tavern bills in these states are +near one hundred per cent under yours. The exorbitant charges of your +tavern-keepers are a disgrace to the country: I could never account for +your submitting so quietly to their impositions. + +Whether it be owing to the abolition of negro slavery, and the sale of +irish, and german redemptioners, (which, by the by, is nearly as bad, and +ought not to be tolerated in a free country,) or to the great population, +or to the produce of the land being of less value than in the south: I say +whether it be owing to any, or to all of these causes, I know not; but +certain it is, a greater strain of industry runs through all ranks of +people than with you; and it is equally certain, that the lower order of +citizens receive a better education, and of course are more intelligent, +and better informed. This you will not wonder at, when I tell you there +are seven free schools in Boston, containing about nine hundred scholars, +and that in the country schools are in a still greater proportion. They +are maintained by a tax on every class of citizens, therefore education +may be claimed by _all_ as a _right_. + +This climate is much colder, compared with yours, than I can account for +geographically; but it may perhaps be owing to our having a greater +proportion of easterly winds, which, coming immediately from the banks of +Newfoundland, are attended with a cloudy sky, and thick atmosphere. These +may tend to mitigate the heats of summer, but are very disagreeable in the +other seasons. The coldness of the climate is plainly to be perceived in +the birch tree, which is here common in the woods; and the _want_ of +the mocking bird, the red bird, and a great variety of others, that visit +you in the glimmer from South America. The fox squirrel too is scarce, and +the gray squirrel almost white. We cannot cultivate the sweet, or tropical +potatoe, but import it from Carolina. Even the peach is late, small, and +acid. The coldness of the climate, and the fanaticism of the inhabitants, +make the New England states by no means such desirable places of +residence, as those of the south, to + +Yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Dover, April 22nd, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the 12th of March I embarked in the Betsy, captain Hart, for London; my +live stock consisted of some fowls, four brace of partridges, a flying +squirrel, and a young racoon. We sailed about midnight, with a good breeze +at S.W., and were in a few hours clear of the land. + +On the evening of the 13th, we met with a hard gale at N. E. by N.--The +degree of cold was intolerable. We shipped some heavy seas, and our +rigging being intirely incrusted with ice, our captain was resolved to +stand to the south, in search of better weather. The next morning being on +the edge of the gulf stream, we were witness to a strange struggle between +the warmth of the current, and the coldness of the surrounding ocean and +atmosphere: the stream actually smoaked like a caldron! We ran as far to +the south as latitude 38, when the wind shifting to the S. W., in a few +hours we found a wonderful change of climate: the degree of heat was, at +least, equal to that of a usual summer day in England, without the +disagreeable pressure experienced from a thick atmosphere. The air was +perfectly clear, elastic, and animating, nothing could be more charming; +but this was of short continuance; the next morning the wind shifted to +the N. E., and blew a _gale_, which lasted eighteen hours. We had +then a calm, which was succeeded by westerly winds, + +On the 27th, we had run down half our longitude, four degrees of which we +sailed in the last twenty four hours. + +On the 29th, we met with another very severe gale at E.N.E., which soon +obliged us to strike our top-gallant-yards, and lie too, under our mizen +and mizen stay sail. During the confusion of the night, my racoon got +loose, and found means to kill all my partridges! and, as misfortunes +seldom come alone; a large spanish cat we had on board, caught my flying +squirrel. The loss of my partridges was the more provoking, as they were +in perfect health, and I had no doubt of landing them safe: so ends my +project of propagating the breed of these birds in England. + +In a former letter, wherein I gave you my motives for making this attempt, +I mentioned their extreme hardiness; of this I had now additional proofs: +these birds were in a coop on the deck, and I expected every sea we +shipped over our quarter during the first gale, they certainly would be +drowned; but was agreeably surprised, when the gale was over, to find them +very little the worse for their severe ducking. + +_April 14th._--For the last eight days we have been beating against +an easterly wind, a few leagues to the westward of the chops of the +channel, subject to continual alarms from french cruisers, of all +situations the most disagreeable. This evening we had soundings at 80 +fathom, and a favourable change of the wind to the westward. + +On the 15th we saw an american-built ship standing athwart us, by her +course and appearance evidently a french prize, bound to Brest. She had +her anchors over her bows, and most likely had been but a few days from +some port in St. George's Channel. About five hours after we were boarded +by the Spitfire, british sloop of war; we informed the lieutenant of the +exact course of the prize, and he immediately gave chace. + +The next day we made the Bill of Portland. Our passage up the channel was +very pleasant, till within six leagues of Dover, when we once more +encountered a violent easterly gale, which, for the fifth time, reduced us +to our courses. Night coming on, and not being able to procure a pilot, we +were a little uneasy. The gale abating the next day, a pilot came on +board. He had the conscience to demand three guineas to put me on shore! +but took one third of the sum, which I think he deserved, as we were six +hours making this harbour. I found the custom house officers, and their +myrmidon porters, exactly as Smollet has described them; two of these +_gentlemen_ had the impudence to charge me half a guinea for bringing +my trunk seventy yards.--So ends my tour. I am once more landed in Old +England, after an absence of three years and nine months, with a plentiful +lack of money and _some_ experience!-- + +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the United States of America +by William Priest + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11545 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa3b46d --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #11545 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/11545) diff --git a/old/11545.txt b/old/11545.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b236a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11545.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4338 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the United States of America +by William Priest + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Travels in the United States of America + Commencing in the Year 1793, and Ending in 1797. + With The Author's Journals of his Two Voyages + Across the Atlantic. + +Author: William Priest + +Release Date: March 11, 2004 [EBook #11545] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES *** + + + + +Produced by John R. Bilderback and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + + +[Illustration: PETER BROWN'S ARMS.] + +TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA; + +Commencing in the Year 1793, and Ending in 1797. With The Author's +Journals of his Two Voyages Across the Atlantic + + * * * * * + +BY WILLIAM PRIEST, Musician, +Late of the Theatres Philadelphia, Baltimore and Boston. + + * * * * * + +CAPPRICCIO con---- + + * * * * * + +LONDON: +Printed for J. Johnson, No. 72, St. Paul's Church-Yard + + * * * * * + +1802. + +Bryer, Printer, Bridewell Hospital, Bridge Street. + + +PREFACE. + +An elegant writer observes that a preface may be dispensed with in any +work, if the author (either from his humility of justice) think that his +style be calculated only to put his readers to sleep. Though I do not +think the publication of the following sheets will _materially_ affect the +price of opium, I cannot intrude this volume on the public without +informing them, what all my friends will vouch for the truth of, viz.-- +that on my return from America, in 1797, I wrote the work in its present +form _for their_ perusal; and, that conscious of my want of talent as a +writer, I resisted all their entreaties for its publication, till within +these three months. + +The public, I presume, will not be _wholly_ disappointed; the _extracts_ I +have made from _Jefferson_, _Belknap_, and other american writers, are +worthy their attention: _I_ have no other merit than having placed them in +a tolerable point of view. + +"The God of Truth, and all who know +me, will bear testimony that, from my +whole soul, I despise deceit, as I do all +silly claims to superior wisdom, and +infallibility, which so many writers, by +a thousand artifices, endeavour to make +their readers imagine they possess." + + + +CONTENTS. + + +Introduction + +JOURNAL--Gravesend--why so called--Deal--Falmouth--Pendennis castle--a +gale--a hymn--the gulph weed--sun set at sea--dolphins and flying fish-- +first account of the yellow fever--arrival in the Delaware--on shore in +the Jerseys--Woodbury--melancholy visit to Philadelphia--arrival at +Annapolis + +ANNAPOLIS--why so called--extract from the charter--situation--loss of the +trade--accounted for--Annapolitans partial to theatrical amusements-- +produce of Maryland--tobacco--wheat--new species of manure + +JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL--filial affection of the negroes--fried squirrels +and coffee--Baltimore--the mighty Susquana--intrepidity of a slave--how +rewarded--Wilmington--Brandywine--grist mills--the battle--Chester-- +arrival at Philadelphia + +TWO ANECDOTES--a gentleman blacksmith not ashamed of his origin--a high +sheriff doing his duty + +PHILADELPHIA--state of, in 1681--Penn's arrival in 1701--intended plan of +the city--not observed--situation--advantages of exports--entries in 1793-- +buildings how constructed--houses removed intire--new theatre--pleasure +carriages--removal of the state government to Lancaster + +MANNER OF LIVING OF THE PHILADELPHIANS--breakfast--dinner--supper--bad +effects of such diet--relishes in stile at an American tea-garden + +BACK SETTLER--arrives at his purchase--builds his huts--manner of clearing +the land--Indian corn--advantages of--the black and grey squirrels-- +attacked by the Indians--extract--he escapes the scalping knife--more +comfortably situated--an idle back settler--his manner of life--what he +calls liberty--joins the Indians at war with the states--the demisavage +copies only the black side of the Indian character + +PENNSYLVANIA PLANTER--enjoys a happy state of mediocrity between riches +and poverty--the children how disposed of--the boys--effect of the +religious education given to the girls not intirely eradicated even by a +brothel--a country sleighing match--another in Philadelphia in stile--a +fiddler a necessary apendage + +FROGS--two extracts--they sit croaking to the wonderment of strangers-- +land of enchantment--frog concert--how supported--treble--counter tenor-- +tenor--bass--fire-flies--night-hawks--probable effects on an enthusiastic +cockney + +JOURNEY TO LANCASTER--the Pioli--Wayne's surprise--appointed to the +command of the western army--Indian war--shocking effects of-- +misunderstanding between the Canadians and American citizens--accounted +for--French agents--the British government vindicated--Proceed on the +journey--charming prospects--beauties of the Susquana destroys the +navigation--arrival at Lancaster--rifle manufactory--uncommon shot of two +back woodsmen--Dutch schools--three concerts--two German sans culottes-- +extracts from the regulations of the Hanover dancing assembly--German and +Irish emigrants + +FEDERAL COINAGE not approved of by the people--the new scheme contrasted +with the old one--advantages of an even division by the decimal + +DELAWARE SHAD FISHERY--stupidity of the Anglo-Americans in giving English +names to animals peculiar to the new continent--length of the siens-- +greatest haul of shad on record--fanatical law of the Quakers injurious to +the fishery--sturgeon--extract from general Lincoln on the migration of +fishes + +JOURNEY TO BALTIMORE--water-stage--Newcastle--Glasgow--the Elk--bay of +Chesapeake--arrival at Baltimore--yellow fever + +BALTIMORE--situation--disadvantages of--the Dutch plan of canals not +adapted to a southern latitude--the former race-course in the centre of +the town--anecdote + +MANUFACTORIES--not the interest of the Americans to engage in them--why-- +American iron--its malleability--two patents granted by Congress-- +sawing-mills--ship-building + +SHOOTING AND FISHING--partridges--no game laws--woodcocks in August--the +American ortolan--back woodsmen--their game--wild turkey--squirrel +shooting--American fishing parties--how conducted + +INDIANS--genius for oratory, painting, and sculpture--their continence-- +extract--the Indian student--the splenetic Indian--his remedy--seen in +another point of view--the Indian orator--verses on an Indian burial-ground + + +SCHEME OF A RIFLE CORPS--of forming the corps--rifles--powder-- +accoutrements and dress--exercise + +SPECULATION--the United States--the land of--100 acres of land for a +dollar--flour--the mines--description of a coal-bank + +CLIMATE--Cooper on this subject not to be depended upon--quotation +from Jefferson--the N.W. wind not accounted for--Volney--his intended +investigation + +WHITE SLAVE TRADE--mortality on board a white Guineaman from Ireland-- +Hibernian and German societies--the trade not allowed in New England--a +German flesh-butcher sells his countrymen at Philadelphia during the fatal +yellow fever of 1793 + +JOURNEY TO BOSTON--Pennsylvania the garden of the United States-- +Bristol--Trentown--New Brunswick--New York--arrival in Yankee Land--land +speculators harangue--interrupted--arrival at Boston--P.S.--dramatic +mania--detestation of the primitive Bostonians to theatricals--are first +introduced as moral lectures--the theatrical opposition + +BATTLE OF BUNKER'S HILL--inscription from a monument on the scene of +action--anecdotes of Cox, the celebrated bridge-architect--connects Boston +with the Continent--goes to Ireland, where he builds seven bridges + +BOSTON--situation--West Boston--advantages of the harbour--the long +wharf--new theatre--university of Cambridge--new bridge a mile in length-- +Irish market + +BOSTONIAN FIRE ALARM--amateur firemen--negro incendiaries--good effects of +their villainy + +FANATICISM--Brownists--intolerance proved from their own writers-- +rebellion against parents made a capital crime--smoaking tobacco and +drinking healths forbidden--proclamation against wearing long hair-- +persecution of the Quakers--Penn's retaliation--poetry + +NEGRO SLAVERY--state of in the Southern, Middle, and New England Slates-- +abolition society--extract from Jefferson's Virginia + +YELLOW FEVER--a new disorder--first imported from the coast of Guinea to +the West Indies in 1792--extract from Dr. Rush--a disorder fatal only to +one race of men not new--plague among the red men--how accounted for by +the fanatics--not to the satisfaction of a philosopher--age of the world +proved to be 36,960 years from the falls of Niagara + +AMERICAN FISHERY ON THE BANKS OK NEWFOUNDLAND--extract from Dr. Belknap-- +dumb fish--how cured--merchantable--Jamaica fish--former and present state +of the fishery + +NEW ENGLAND STATES COMPARED WITH THOSE OF THE SOUTH--beauty of the women-- +accounted for--general knowledge of the inhabitants--free schools--how +supported--difference of climate + +VOYAGE TO ENGLAND--journal--severe gale at N.E.--the vessel encrusted with +ice--stand to the southward--the gulph stream--another gale--misfortunes-- +arrival at Dover--conclusion + + +_ERRATA._ + +P. 11, 1.8, for _plantation_, read _plantations_. + + 32, 1.5 and 6, are a note having reference to p. 28, 1.11. + + 71, 1.5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, are a note having reference to + p. 68, 1.4. + + 131, 1.6, for _freeing_, read _treeing_. + + 146, the asterisk placed at the word _vessel_ in the 13th line, + should be placed at the word _Newcastle_ in the 15th line. + + + +*TRAVELS IN AMERICA.* + + * * * * * + +_London, May 7th, 1797._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Since my return, my friends have made a thousand inquiries respecting the +state of America. I do not know how I can inform them of my sentiments on +that subject better, than by having the rough draught I preserved of the +letters I wrote to you from that country fairly copied for their use. If, +like you, they are _really_ my friends, they will take the will for the +deed. The _truth_ of my information, and my _wish_ to contribute to their +amusement, will be a sufficient apology for the many imperfections they +will meet with, in the desultory epistles of + +Yours very sincerely. + + +_Annapolis, December 1st, 1793._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The enclosed extracts from my journal will I hope convince you, I have not +_entirely_ forgot my promise at parting. When at Philadelphia I delivered +your letters to----. Believe me + +Yours very sincerely. + + * * * * * + + +JOURNAL. + +_Gravesend, on board the George Barclay,_ + +_31st of July, 1793._ + +Arrived onboard at 2 this afternoon, with an intention of sailing to +Philadelphia: Gravesend is so called from it's being _the end of a +sailors grave_, as those who die on a voyage after passing the fort are +thrown over board. + + +_August 1st._ + +Got under weigh with a light breeze at S.W., which not being sufficient to +stem the returning tide, we dropped out anchor again off the Nore light. + +_Aug. 2nd_.--Weighed anchor with the wind at S.E., and on the morning +of the 3rd; off Deal, sent a boat on shore, which soon returned with a +supply of meat, water, sheep, poultry gin, and gingerbread; dismissed our +pilot, and soon after doubted the South Foreland; the prospect of Dover +and the adjacent coast delightful. + +_Aug 8th_.--Beating to windward with a fresh breeze off the Lizard; +finding it impossible to clear the land, put about, and by three in the +afternoon were safe moored in Falmouth harbour. Went on shore; the lower +order of the inhabitants chaunt, or rather speak in recitative, a strange +dialect, in which I could distinguish several English words. + +Took a walk to Pendennis castle, which protects the West entrance of the +harbour; found it garrisoned by a party of invalides, who informed me they +had not two nights in bed to one up; hard duty after twenty years +servitude! + +_Aug. 9th_.--Dined on john dory, which I cannot think equal either to +turbot or sole. Falmouth has the best fish market in England: I am +informed, in the course of the year, they have upward of fifty different +species for sale, on very moderate terms. + +_Aug. 15th._--Weighed anchor, and having a good breeze at N.E., we +were soon clear of the land. On the evening of the 16th came on a smart +breeze at S.W.; at 2 A.M. the wind changed to W.N.W. and _blew a hard +gale_, which split our jib, and at last obliged us to lie too, under +our courses: shipped some very heavy seas over our quarter, which drowned +three parts of our stock of geese and other poultry; the baggage of near +fifty passengers, for want of being properly lashed, was dashing about the +steerage; which, with the shrieks of the women, heaving of the vessel, +rattling of the wind, and all the _et cetera_ of a storm, was +dreadful indeed. + +_Aug. 18th_.--Wind N.W. moderate; the morning delightful; appeared +doubly so, contrasted with the horrours of the night. + +_Aug. 31st_.--Fresh breeze at S.W. increasing to a hard gale, reduced +us once more to our courses: at 8 P.M. calm, with a very heavy swell. + +_Sunday 1st September._ + +Pleasant breeze at N.N.E. The following hymn was written by Mr. Harwood, +for this morning's service. + +HYMN. + +I. + +Father of Heav'n, to thee we raise + (Mark'd by thy kind peculiar care,) +Our songs of thankfulness and praise, + To thee ascends the grateful pray'r. + +II. + +Thou didst direct the gentlest breath, + That o'er the sleeping waters stole; +Thine is the dreadful voice of death, + In which thy angry thunders roll. + +III. + +Father of all, 'tis thine to give, + Not what our erring pray'r demands; +With joy thy blessings we receive, + And bow submissive 'neath thy hand. + +_Sept. 7th_.--First appearance of the gulf-weed. The trade wind, between +the Equator and the extent of the northern Tropic, setting from the +eastward, forces the water against the islands, and at length into the +gulf of Mexico where it meets with an uniform opposition from the +main, causing a strong current to the N.E., or points somewhat in that +direction. This stream is so violent as to tear up the sea weeds in the +gulf, and bear them as far to the north as latitude 44: the stream is soon +after absorbed in the Western ocean; but causes certain counter currents, +which, for want of being properly allowed for by mariners, have been the +causes of many shipwrecks. + +_Sept. 8th_.--Fine morning; wind at W.S.W. A beautiful dolphin struck at +an artificial flying fish, hanging at our bow-sprit; the hook breaking, he +escaped;--continued playing round our bows for some time, and struck at +several flying fish; but we could not again tempt him with the artificial +bait. + +_Mem_. To read this lesson once a month. + +_Sept. 9th_.--Calm and fog, several flocks of wild fowl. Suppose ourselves +near the banks of Newfoundland. Thermometer sunk 18 degrees since +yesterday. + +_Sept. 10th_.--Pleasant morning, having run to the S.W. during the +night: no sign of the banks. A land bird, of the thrush kind, came and +settled on our main yard; seemed quite exhausted; fell upon the deck, and +was taken up by the cabin boy. The poor creature must have been driven off +the coast of America in a violent gale at N.W., the distance from any land +being upwards of a thousand miles; no other circumstance could account for +it's flying so far. + +_Sept. 19th_.--Wind at N.N.W. very moderate;--the afternoon calm. The +sun set this evening with uncommon beauty, that glorious luminary was +surrounded with clouds of a vivid yellow, green, and red; strongly shaded +with black half the extent of the horizon. The moon at the same time +rising to the east-ward, with a cool and faint sky, formed a strong and +beautiful contrast. + +_Sept. 21st_.--Wind S. with rain. Caught four dolphins, which afforded us +a most delicious repast: in the paunch of one was found a dodon, or +globe-fish; the sailors call it a parrot-fish, from its having a beak +exactly resembling that bird.--At 9 A.M. spoke with the Queen Charlotte of +London, bound to Bristol, out ten days from Baltimore; the captain's +account of the longitude 67. Our joy in being so near the land was of +short continuance; for, in one hour after, we spoke with the Union, eight +days from Philadelphia. The captain informed us, there was a sort of +plague in that city, which carries off great numbers, and that ten +thousand of the inhabitants had fled to the country, to avoid the +infection. + +_Sept. 24th_.--Soundings at 60 fathom: lay to all night. + +_Sept. 25th_.--Woke with the cry of "Land." At 10 A.M. we took a +pilot on board: he informed us the disorder at Philadelphia is the yellow +fever, imported in a french schooner from the West Indies; some of the +passengers of this vessel died of this fatal disorder, at a lodging-house +in Water-street, and communicated the infection to the family. It is now +spreading rapidly through the city, in all directions. The faculty, so far +from being able to cure this disorder, have, in several instances, fallen +victims to it's fury. Within this few days, a Dr. Rush has discovered this +disorder is _not_ the yellow fever of the West Indies and has applied +an opposite mode of cure by copious bleedings, mercurial medicines, &c. +with some success. What is truly extraordinary, the infection does not +affect _people of colour!_ + +_Sept. 28th._--Came to an anchor off Glocester Point, five miles +below Philadelphia: the vessel proceeds no further at present, as all +intercourse with the city is cut off, and business at a stand. + +_October 1st_. + +Brought my baggage on shore, and arrived, at four in the afternoon, at +Woodbury, the county town of Glocester, in the state of West Jersey. With +some difficulty I procured a lodging within half a mile of the town. +Woodbury consists of about fifty well built houses, chiefly inhabited by +quakers, and other dissenters of the most rigid kind; so very primitive +are they in their appearance, that a barber cannot make a living among +them. + +_Oct. 13th_.--Spent the last ten days in shooting, and rambling about +the woods. The face of the country is exactly that of an immense forest, +entirely covered with wood, except the plantation cleared by the settlers. +The land sandy, and by no means of a good quality; the chief produce +maize, or indian corn. I counted the increase of _one_ stalk with +three ears; the amount of the grains were upward of _one thousand two +hundred_. + +_Oct. 16th_.--I believe the Americans conceive their woods to be +inexhaustible. My landlord this day cut down thirty-two young cedars to +make a hog-pen. A settler informs me, he raised a gum tree from the seed, +which, in sixteen years, measured twenty inches diameter, three feet from +it's base. He tells, me they have ten species of oak; viz, white, black, +red, spanish, turkey, chesnut, ground, water, barren, and live oak. The +white, turkey, and chesnut are used for ship-timber; the acorn of the +latter very superiour in size to any other. Red oak is chiefly used for +pipe-staves, and exported to most parts of Europe, and the West Indies. +Black oak is a dry wood, and easily splits; is chiefly used for the rails +and fences of their enclosures. Ground oak is bushy, and seldom exceeds +six feet in height; it bears a small acorn of a very superiour flavour, +which is the chief food of the deer, and sheep, who run wild in the woods. +Water and barren oak are small and bushy, and only used for firing. Live +oak is _said_ to be very superiour to all the rest, and the best +_ship-timber_ in the world. I am informed it is a sort of evergreen, +seldom met with north of the Carolinas. + +_Oct. 26th_.--Went to Philadelphia.--After crossing the Delaware, I found +the land very different from the Jersey shore; a fine stiff black soil, +the clover growing spontaneously. The city exhibited a most melancholy +spectacle; most of the houses and stores shut up, and grass growing in +many of the streets; what few _white_ inhabitants I met with had a most +dejected appearance. The disorder has been most favourable to the softer +sex; women with child, and those above and under a certain age, were in +general free from the infection: but so fatal has it proved to the other +sex, that, in Apple-tree-alley, which does not exceed fifty yards in +length, there are upwards of sixty widows within these two months. The +total loss on this melancholy occasion already exceeds four thousand, +nearly one tenth of the inhabitants! Returning to Woodbury, I met with a +quaker, who informed me of the _cause_ of the infectious disorder in the +Great City: "_It is_ a judgment on the inhabitants for their sins, +insomuch that they sent to England for a number of play-actors, singers, +and _musicians_, who were _actually arrived_; and as a just judgment on +the Philadelphians for encouraging these _children of iniquity_, they were +now afflicted with the yellow fever." I told him, that more likely the +sins of the _quakers_ had drawn down this judgment on the city _of +brotherly love_, and that it was now scourged for _their_ hypocrisy, +lying, canting, and other _manifold iniquities_. + +_Oct. 27th_.--Very cold wind at N.W. In the evening snow. + +_Oct. 29th_.--Favourable accounts from Philadelphia: the late cold +weather has entirely stopped the progress of the disorder. + +_November 26th_. + +Set out for Annapolis, and arrived there in health, the 29th, at five in +the afternoon. + + * * * * * + +_Annapolis, 17th December, 1793._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The bay of Chesapeak is one of the largest in the world. From it's +entrance, between capes Henry and Charles, to the mouth of the Susquana, +which forms the head of the bay, the distance is two hundred and eighty +miles, through which great extent of water the tide ebbs and flows. This +bay receives into it's bosom the following rivers; viz. the Patomac, the +Rappahanock, the Patapsico, the York, the James, the Severn, and the Elk, +beside innumerable creeks, and small streams. On an inlet from this bay, +about two hundred miles from it's entrance from the Atlantic, stands +Annapolis, the capital of the state of Maryland, so called in honour of +queen Anne, as appears from the following extract from their charter:-- + +"Anne, by the grace of God, queen of Great Britain, &c.... + +"To all, and singular, our faithful subjects within our province of +Maryland, greeting.... Whereas there is a pleasant and commodious place +for trade ... laid out for a town, and port, and called Annapolis, in +honour of us." + +This city was intended for the emporium of the province; and surely no +spot ever _seemed_ better calculated for a town of trade and commerce. Far +to the south, and in one of the most pleasant and healthy situations in +America; as the seat of government, being the greatest, and indeed then +_only_ mercantile town in the province; the bay of Chesapeak, and adjacent +rivers, wafting the tobacco and other produce of the country to this mart +at a trifling expense; a harbour where ships might ride at anchor in +perfect security, and where wharfs, with sufficient depth of water for a +vessel of eight hundred tons, might be formed with very little trouble: +but unfortunately these advantages were rendered abortive by the bite of a +small insect; the worms are so troublesome in these waters, that a vessel +lying in this harbour during the summer months will be as full of holes as +a honey-comb. Baltimore, a town on a similar inlet from the bay, about +thirty miles hence, being free from this plague, (by having a great +proportion of fresh water from the Patapsico in it's harbour) has drawn +all the trade from the _capital_: the Annapolians have now but _one_ +square-rigged vessel belonging to their port, while their rivals have many +hundreds, and drive a brisk trade to the four quarters of the globe. + +Annapolis is whimsically laid out, the streets verging from each other, +like rays from a centre. It is still the seat of government; and it's +state-house is by much the best building I have seen in America. This +little city is now the retreat of some of the best families in the +state. The inhabitants in general are passionately fond of theatrical +entertainments, and received us with a degree of kindness and hospitality +which claims our warmest acknowledgments. I spend my time here very +agreeably. The politeness, ease, and conviviality of the Annapolians form +a strong and pleasing contrast to the behaviour of the stiff, gloomy and +unsocial bigots I was lately surrounded with in the Jerseys. Next to +Virginia, this state was the most famous for tobacco-plantations; but the +people now find the culture of wheat more profitable, as well as less +injurious to the soil. No plant impoverishes the earth so much by it's +growth as tobacco; many plantations, owing to successive crops of this +_weed_, are what is here called _worn out_; formerly, when their land was +in this state, instead of endeavouring to bring it round by a few fallow +years and manure, as in England, they immediately cleared a fresh tract. +They now begin to use manure, and have discovered a very extraordinary +kind; viz. antediluvian oyster-shells, large beds of which are found +a few feet beneath the surface of the earth in several parts of the +state[Footnote: See Bartram's Account of a similar Bed in Georgia, +page 213.]: these being laid on the land, are, by the effect of the +air, crumbled into dust in a few days, and fertilize the earth in an +astonishing degree.--Farewell.--Conclude me + +Yours very sincerely, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, 27th February, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the fourth instant I left Annapolis on my way to this city. After +travelling eight miles, we passed through a long and dreary wood; here we +met two negroes conveying a coffin on a sort of sledge. On inquiry, one of +them informed us, the coffin contained the corpse of his mother; that on +the death of his old master, his parents were sold to different planters, +which his father took so much to heart, that he died soon after; his +mother only survived him about five months; and they were now complying +with her last request, which was, to be carried to a plantation about +eight miles thence, and there buried with her husband. There seemed a +great degree of dejection in the poor fellow's countenance; and I could +not help telling him, by way of consolation, that his father and mother +were gone to a better place, where there was no distinction of colour, and +where no white man would dare again to part them; but as _words_ are +_wind_, we agreed to administer some more _solid_ consolation, which the +black man received with a look of gratitude, then cast his eye towards his +mother's corpse, and shed a silent tear. Why was not _Sterne_ present at +this scene? + +I slept at an inn, about twenty miles from Annapolis, where we supped in +the American fashion on fried squirrels and coffee, the former excellent. + +_Feb. 5th_.--Arrived at Baltimore, and hired a caravan with four +horses, which is here called a stage: the same afternoon we arrived at the +Susquana. This noble river, which is here about a mile and a quarter wide, +was frozen hard. Our _advanced guard_ crossed the day before, in a +ferry boat: this circumstance will give you some idea of the severity of +the cold in this climate. A negro slave, belonging to the ferry, undertook +to drive our stage over the river for two dollars, which his _master put +into his pocket_, and ordered _Sambo_ to proceed; the fellow drove +boldly, and was across in a few minutes, the ice cracking most horribly +all the way. I suppose I need not inform you, we were _not_ in the +carriage. + +On the evening of the 7th we slept at Wilmington, a pleasantly situate +town on the banks of a creek, which joins the Delaware, about thirty miles +below Philadelphia. There are about thirty square-rigged vessels, beside +sloops, and schooners, belonging to this port, which was originally a +danish settlement. + +The next morning I walked to Brandywine, to see the grist mills, which are +said to be the best in the United States. About five miles from this +village was fought the battle of Brandywine. This was Washington's last +effort to stop general Howe's progress, and save Philadelphia. The +royal army being victorious, they got possession of that city without +opposition. General Washington, after rallying his troops, took a very +advantageous situation on a chain of hills, a few miles west of the +British army. + +We dined at Chester. This little town is situated on the Delaware, and is +the same to Philadelphia that Gravesend is to London. Ships outward bound +here receive their passengers, &c. &c. + +At four the same day, arrived in this city, distant from Annapolis one +hundred and forty one miles, and from Baltimore one hundred and eleven. +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 1st, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I perfectly agree with you, that the form of government in a great measure +_affects_, or rather _forms_ the manners, and way of thinking of +the people; but must decline answering the queries in your last, at least +for the present. I have not been long enough in these states to draw any +fair conclusions on these subjects; but that you may not be wholly +disappointed, I send you two anecdotes, on which you may depend. + +Peter Brown, a blacksmith of this city, having made his fortune, set up +his coach; but so far from being ashamed of the means by which he acquired +his riches, he caused a large _anvil_ to be painted on each pannel of +his carriage, with two naked arms in the act of striking. The motto, +"_By this I got ye_." + +Benjamin Whitall, high sheriff for the county of Gloster, West Jersey, +being obliged soon after his appointment to attend an execution, not +approving of Jack Ketch's clumsy method of _finishing the law_, +fairly tucked up the next criminal _himself_. Such behaviour in +Germany would have branded him with eternal infamy, but is in this country +(I think justly) thought a spirited action of a man, who was above +receiving the emoluments of an office, without performing the most +essential duty annexed to it himself. + +I have often heard it asserted, that a servant should be born under an +absolute monarchy: whether this observation is just or not, I cannot tell, +but I know, that a republic is _not_ the place to find good servants. +If you want to hire a maid servant in this city, she will not allow you +the title of _master_, or herself to be called a _servant_; and +you may think yourself favoured if she condescends to inform you when she +means to spend an evening abroad; if you grumble at all this, she will +leave you at a moment's warning; after which you will find it very +difficult to procure another on any terms. This is one of the natural +consequences of liberty and equality. + +Farewell, &c. + + +_March 3d, 1794._ + +Dear friend, + +Philadelphia, the present seat of government, both of the state of +Pensylvania, and of the whole federal union, consisted, in the year 1681, +of half a dozen miserable huts, inhabited by a few emigrants from Sweden; +when the celebrated William Penn obtained a charter from king Charles the +Second, for a certain tract of unsettled country in North America, +extending from twelve miles north of Newcastle, along the courses of the +Delaware, and a meridian line from its head, to the 43d degree of north +latitude, and westward, 5 degrees of longitude from its eastern bounds. + +In the year following, he arrived, and in 1701 the city was finally laid +out from Cedar-street to Vine-street, forming an oblong square of two +miles in length, from the river Delaware to the Scuylkill; and about a +mile in width. It was the wish of the founder, that the fronts facing the +_two_ rivers should be _equally_ built upon; by which means the city would +naturally meet in the centre; but they have not only deviated from the +original plan, by running the city along the banks of the Delaware, +_beyond_ the aforesaid streets, which formed the bounds in that direction, +but have left the _Scuylkill_ front without a single street. + +Philadelphia is situate in latitude 39 deg. 56 min. north, and long. 75 +deg. 8 min. west from Greenwich, on a narrow neck of land, between the +rivers Delaware and Scuylkill, on the Pensylvania banks of the latter, +where this river is about one mile wide, and one hundred and twenty +(following it's course) from the Atlantic Ocean. This noble river affords +a safe navigation for vessels of a thousand tuns burden up to the wharfs +of the city. The Scuylkill (though by no means so wide) has nearly the +same depth of water. + +Philadelphia is the first port in the Union. The total value of it's +exports in the year 1793, was 695736 dollars; the total of flower shipped +in the year 1792 was 420000 barrels, and in the spring only of 1793 it +exceeded 200000 barrels. + +The total of inward entries at Philadelphia, in 1793, was 1414 vessels of +different sizes, of which 477 were ships or brigs. + +It is foreign from the subject of this city, but I cannot help informing +you, that the imports of the _United States_ from _Great Britain_ +alone, in the year 1791, were stated at 19502070 dollars, (chiefly of +_manufactured articles_) and have been considerably increasing every +year since. + +By a slight inspection of the plan, you will perceive the great regularity +observed in laying out this city; the streets intersect each other at +right angles, the centre street, north and south, is 113 feet wide; that +east and west 100 feet; and the other principal streets 50 feet wide. Had +equal care been taken to build the houses uniformly, and their height in +proportion to the width of the streets, this city would have been +uncommonly beautiful; but except that the fronts of the buildings were not +permitted to extend beyond the line laid down in the plan, every man built +his house (to use the language of the first settlers,) "as it seemed good +in his own eyes." + +The first object of an industrious emigrant, who means to settle in +Philadelphia, is to purchase a lot of ground in one of the vacant streets. +He erects a small building forty or fifty feet from the line laid out for +him by the city surveyor, and lives there till he can afford to build a +house; when his former habitation serves him for a kitchen and wash-house. +I have observed buildings in this state in the heart of the city; but they +are more common in the outskirts. Our friend Wright is exactly in this +situation; but I am afraid it will be many years before he will be able to +build in _front_. + +The buildings in this city are about two thirds of brick, and the rest of +wood. The foundations of the former are in general of a species of marble; +the bricks are uncommonly well manufactured; and these buildings are more +firmly constructed than in Europe. Those of wood are the reverse, which +you will easily credit, when I inform you, that when a house of this +description is offered for sale, it is by no means understood, as in +England, that the _land_ on which it stands is included in the purchase. +They have a method of removing these buildings _entire_. A house +_travelling_ in this manner through the streets of the city is to a +European a truly grotesque and extraordinary sight. + +During the time the British troops had possession of this city in the last +war, they were much distressed for fuel, and obliged to cut down all the +wood they could meet with; upwards of a thousand acres of peach and apple +orchard were destroyed, belonging to one family. This destruction of the +trees has materially hurt the prospects for three or four miles on the +Pensylvania side; the opposite Jersey shore (except the plantations) is +one entire forest. + +Philadelphia is at present supplied with water from pumps, placed in +different parts of the city; but a company of adventurers are bringing +water from above the falls of Scuylkill, in the manner of the New River in +London: but mean to improve on sir Hugh Middleton's plan, by making their +aqueduct also serve the purposes of inland navigation. + +The inhabitants are in general very fond of theatrical representations; +their new theatre is an elegant building, from a design the subscribers +obtained from London, where the principal scenes were painted by +Richardson and Rooker. The receipts of the house have exceeded one +thousand six hundred dollars. + +The fair Philadelphians are by no means so fond of walking, as the English +ladies; not that they have any _great dislike_ to a _trip_ into the +_country_, but it is not fashionable even for a maid servant to make use +of her _legs_ on these occasions; the consequence is, that there are 806 +two and four wheeled machines entered at the office, and pay duty, as +_pleasure carriages_, most of which are for hire; and yet the inhabitants +do not exceed 50000, of whom there are not three individuals but follow +some profession, trade, or employment. In a few days I shall have an +opportunity of sending you a publication, which will give you a more ample +account of this city than you now receive from + +Yours, &c. + +Since writing this letter, the seat of government of the state has been +removed to Lancaster, as being nearer the centre; for the same reason, +that of the general government of the United States, will, in the year +1800, be removed to the federal city, now building in the district of +Columbia. + +Several _uniform_ and elegant rows of houses have _lately_ been built. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 7th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +It is a general observation with respect to the English, that they eat +more animal food than the people of any other nation. The following +statement of the manner of living of the Americans[Footnote: By the term +_American_ you must understand a white man descended from a native of +the Old Continent; and by the term _Indian_, or _Savage_, one of +the aborigines of the New World.] will convince you of the falsity of this +opinion. + +About eight or nine in the morning they breakfast on tea and coffee, +attended always with what they call _relishes_, such as salt fish, +beef-steaks, sausages, broiled-fowls, ham, bacon, &c. At two they dine on +what is usual in England, with a variety of american dishes, such as bear, +opossum, racoon, &c. At six or seven in the evening they have their +supper, which is exactly the same as their breakfast, with the addition of +what cold meat is left at dinner. I have often wondered how they acquired +this method of living, which is by no means calculated for the climate; +such stimulating food at breakfast and supper naturally causes thirst, and +there being no other beverage at these meals than tea, or coffee, they are +apt to drink too freely of them, particularly the female part of the +family; which, during the excessive heats in summer, is relaxing and +debilitating; and in winter, by opening the pores, exposes them to colds +of the most dangerous kind. + +The manner of living I have been describing is that of people in moderate +circumstances; but this taste for _relishes_ with coffee and tea extends +to all ranks of people in these states. Soon after my arrival at +this city, I went on a party of pleasure to a sort of tea-garden and +_tavern_[Footnote: By the word _tavern,_ in America, is meant an inn or +public house of any description.], romantically situate on the bank of the +Scuylkill. At six in the evening we ordered coffee, which I was informed +they were here famous for serving _in style_. I took a memorandum of what +was on the table; viz. _coffee, cheese, sweet cakes, hung beef, sugar, +pickled salmon, butter, crackers, ham, cream_, and _bread_. The ladies all +declared, it was a most _charming relish_! + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, March 12th, 1794._ + +Dear Friend, + +The price of labour in this country is very great, owing to the prospect +an industrious man has of procuring an independance by cultivating a tract +of the waste lands; many millions of acres of which are how on sale by +government; to say nothing of those held by individuals. The money arising +from the sale of the former is appropriated to the discharge of the +national debt. + +During my residence in Jersey, I was at no little pains to inform myself +of the difficulties attending a back settler. We will suppose a person +making such an attempt to possess one hundred pounds, though many have +been successful with a much less sum: his first care is to purchase about +three hundred acres of land, which, if it is in a remote western +settlement, he will procure for about nineteen pounds sterling: he may +know the quality of the land by the trees, with which it is entirely +covered. The hickory and the walnut are an infallible sign of a rich, and +every species of fir, of a barren, sandy, and unprofitable soil. When his +land is properly registered, his next care is to provide himself with a +horse, a plough, and other implements of agriculture; a rifle, a fowling +piece, some ammunition, and a large dog of the blood-hound breed, to hunt +deer. We will suppose him arrived at the place of his destination in +spring, as soon as the ground is clear of frost. No sooner is the arrival +of a new settler circulated, than, for many miles round, his neighbours +flock to him: they all assist in erecting his hut; this is done with logs; +a bricklayer is only wanting to make his chimney and oven. He then clears +a few acres by cutting down the large trees about four feet from the +_ground_[Footnote: These stumps are many years rotting, and, when +completely rotted, afford an excellent manure.], grubs up the underwood, +splits some of the large timber for railing fences, and sets fire to the +rest upon the spot; ploughs round the stumps of the large timber, and in +May plants maize, or indian corn. In October he has a harvest of eight +hundred or a thousand fold. This is every thing to him and his family. +Indian corn, ground and made into cakes, answers the end of bread, and +when boiled with meat, and a small proportion of a sort of kidney-bean +(which it is usual to sow with this grain), it makes an excellent dish, +which they call _hominy_. They also coarsely pound the indian corn, +and boil it for five hours; this is by the Indians called _mush_; +and, when a proportion of milk is added, forms their breakfast. Indian +corn is also the best food for horses employed in agriculture in this +climate: black cattle, deer, and hogs are very fond of it, and fatten +better than on any other grain. It is also excellent food for turkies, and +other poultry. + +When this harvest is in, he provides himself with a cow, and a few sheep +and hogs; the latter run wild in the woods. But for a few years he depends +chiefly on his _rifle_, and _faithful dog_; with these he provides his +family with deer, bear, racoon, &c.; but what he values most are the +black, and gray squirrels; these animals are large and numerous, are +excellent roasted, and make a soup exceedingly rich and nourishing. + +He gradually clears his land, a few acres every year, and begins to plant +wheat, tobacco, &c. These, together with what hogs, and other increase of +his stock he can spare, as also the skins of deer, bear, and other animals +he shoots in the woods, he exchanges with the nearest storekeeper, for +clothing, sugar, coffee, &c. + +In this state he suffers much for want of the comforts and even +_necessaries_ of life. Suppose him afflicted with a flux or fever, +attacked by a panther, bitten by a rattle-snake, or any other of the +dreadful circumstances peculiar to his situation: but, above all, suppose +a war to break out between the Indians, and him, and his whole family +scalped, and their plantations burnt! + +The following extract from an American work very feelingly describes him +under these cruel apprehensions:-- + +EXTRACT. + +"You know the position of our settlement; therefore I need not describe +it. To the west it is enclosed by a chain of mountains, reaching to----. +To the east, the country is yet but very thinly inhabited. We are almost +insulated, and the houses are at a considerable distance from each other. +From the mountains we have but too much reason to expect our dreadful +enemy, the Indians; and the wilderness is a harbour, where it is +impossible to find them. It is a door through which they can enter our +country at any time; and as they seem determined to destroy the whole +frontier, our fate cannot be far distant. From lake Champlain almost all +has been conflagrated, one after another. What renders these incursions +still more dreadful is, that they most commonly take place in the dead +of the night. We never go to our fields, but we are seized with an +involuntary fear, which lessens our strength, and weakens our labour. No +other subject of discourse intervenes between the different accounts, +which spread through the country, of successive acts of devastation; and +these, told in chimney corners, swell themselves in our affrighted +imaginations into the most terrific ideas. We never sit down, either to +dinner, or supper, but the least noise spreads a general alarm, and +prevents us from enjoying the comforts of our meals. The very appetite +proceeding from labour and peace of mind is gone! Our sleep is disturbed +by the most frightful dreams! Sometimes I start awake, as if the great +hour of danger was come; at other times the howling of our dogs seems to +announce the arrival of the enemy: we leap out of bed, and run to arms; my +poor wife, with panting bosom, and silent tears, takes leave of me, as if +we were to see each other no more. She snatches the youngest children from +their beds, who, suddenly awakened, increase by their innocent questions +the horrour of the dreadful moment! She tries to hide them in the cellar, +as if our cellar was inaccessible to the fire! I place all my servants at +the window, and myself at the door, where I am determined to perish. Fear +industriously increases every sound; we all listen; each communicates to +each other his fears and conjectures. We remain thus, sometimes for whole +hours, our hearts and our minds racked by the most anxious suspense! What +a dreadful situation! A thousand times worse than that of a soldier +engaged in the midst of a most severe conflict! Sometimes feeling the +spontaneous courage of a man, I seem to wish for the decisive minute; the +next instant a message from my wife, sent by one of the children, quite +unmans me. Away goes my courage, and I descend again into the deepest +despondency: at last, finding it was a false alarm, we return once more to +our beds; but what good can the sleep of nature do us, when interrupted +with _such_ scenes?" + + * * * * * + +But we will suppose our planter to have escaped the scalping knife and +tomahawk; and in the course of years situate in a thick, settled +neighbourhood of planters like himself, who have struggled through all the +foregoing difficulties: he is now a man of some consequence, builds a +house by the side of his former hut, which now serves him for a kitchen; +and as he is comfortably situate, we will leave him to the enjoyment of +the fruits of his industry. + +Such a being has often ideas of liberty, and a contempt of vassalage and +slavery, which do honour to human nature. + +The planter I have endeavoured to describe, I have supposed to be sober +and industrious: but when a man of an opposite description makes such an +attempt, he often degenerates into a demisavage; he cultivates no more +land than will barely supply the family with bread, or rather makes his +wife, and children perform that office. His whole employment is to procure +skins, and furs, to exchange for rum, brandy, and ammunition; for this +purpose he is often for several days together in the woods, without seeing +a human being. He is by no means at a loss; his rifle supplies him with +food, and at night he cuts down some boughs with his tomahawk, and +constructs a _wigwam_[Footnote: The Indian name for their huts so +constructed.], in which he spends the night, stretched on the skins of +those animals he has killed in the course of his excursion. This manner of +living he learned from his savage neighbours, the Indians, and like them +calls every other state of life _slavery_. It sometimes happens, that +an unsuccessful back settler joins the Indians at war with the states. +When this is the case, it is observed he is, if possible, more cruel than +his new allies; he eagerly imbibes all the vices of the savages, without a +single spark of their virtues. Farewell, + +Yours &c. + + +_Philadelphia, March 18th, 1794_. + +Dear Friend, + +My present intention is to give you some conception of the family of a +planter, whose ancestors had in some degree gone through all the +difficulties I described in my last. + +We will suppose them descended from the original english emigrants, who +came over with Penn; like them, to possess a high sense of religion; and +that this family are now in the quiet possession of about three hundred +acres of land, their own _property_[Footnote: There are very few _farms_ +properly so called in the United States.], situate in Pennsylvania, about +seventy or eighty miles from Philadelphia. Whatever difficulties they, or +their ancestors, struggled formerly with, are now over; their lands are +cleared, and in the bosom of a fine country, with a sure market for every +article of produce they can possibly raise, and entirely out of the reach +of the most desperate predatory excursions of the savages. + +They enjoy a happy state of mediocrity[Footnote: The quakers in +particular. I have seen at a meeting in West Jersey, in a very small town, +upwards of two hundred carriages, one horse chairs, and light waggons, +which are machines peculiar to this country, and well adapted to the sandy +soil of the state of New Jersey; they are covered like a caravan, and will +hold eight persons; the benches are removable at pleasure, and they are +also used to convey the produce of the country to market.], between riches +and poverty, perhaps the most enviable of all situations. When the boys of +this family are numerous, those the father cannot provide for at home, and +who prefer a planter's life to a trade, or profession, are, when married, +presented with two or three hundred acres of uncultivated land, which +their parents purchase for them as near home as possible. The young couple +are supplied with stock, and supported till they have a sufficient +quantity of land cleared to provide for themselves. + +If unsuccessful through want of industry, &c., they often sell off, and +emigrate to Kentucky, or some other new country seven or eight hundred +miles to the S.W., and begin the world again as back settlers. + +The daughters are brought up in habits of virtue and industry; the strict +notions of female delicacy, instilled into their minds from their earliest +infancy, never entirely forsake them. Even when one of these girls is +decoyed from the peaceful dwelling of her parents, and left by her +infamous seducer a prey to poverty and prostitution in a _brothel_ at +Philadelphia, her whole appearance is neat, and breathes an air of +modesty: you see nothing in her dress, language, or behaviour, that could +give you any reason to guess at her unfortunate situation; (how unlike her +unhappy sisters so circumstanced in England!) she by no means gives over +the idea of a husband, she is seldom disappointed: and, I am informed, +often makes an excellent wife. + +The chief amusement of the country girls in winter is sleighing, of which +they are passionately fond, as indeed are the whole sex in this country. I +never heard a woman speak of this diversion but with rapture. You have +doubtless read a description of a _sleigh_, or sledge, as it is +common in all northern countries, and can only be used on the snow. In +British America this amusement may be followed nearly all the winter; but +so far to the south as Pennsylvania, the snow seldom lies on the ground +more than seven or eight days together. The consequence is, that every +moment that will admit of sleighing is seized on with avidity. The tavern +and inn-keepers are up all night; and the whole country is in motion. When +the snow begins to fall, our planter's daughters provide hot sand, which +at night they place in bags at the bottom of the sleigh. Their sweethearts +attend with a couple of horses, and away they glide with astonishing +velocity; visiting their friends for many miles round the country. But in +large towns, in order to have a sleighing frolic in _style_, it is +necessary to provide a _fiddler_ who is placed at the head of the +sleigh, and plays all the way. At every inn they meet with on the road, +the company alight and have a dance. But I perceive I am _dancing_ +from my subject, which I suppose you are by this time heartily tired of; I +shall therefore conclude, by assuring you, + +I am + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +"There be also store of frogs, which in the spring time will chirp, and +whistle like birds: there be also toads, that will creep to the top of +trees, and sit there croaking, to the wonderment of strangers!" + +"To a stranger walking for the first time in these woods during the +summer, this appears the land of enchantment: he hears a thousand noises, +without being able to discern from whence or from what animal they +proceed, but which are, in fact, the discordant notes of five different +species of frogs!" + + +_Philadelphia, April 27th, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Previous to my coming to this country, I recollect reading the foregoing +passages, the first in a history of New England, published in London, in +the year 1671; and the other in a similar production of a later date. + +Prepared as I was to hear something extraordinary from these animals, I +confess the first frog _concert_ I heard in America was so much beyond any +thing I could conceive of the _powers_ of these _musicians_, that I was +truly astonished. This _performance_ was _al fresco_, and took place on +the night of the 18th instant, in a large _swamp_, where there were at +least ten thousand _performers_; and I really believe not two _exactly_ in +the same pitch, if the octave can possibly admit of so many divisions or +shades of semitones. An hibernian musician, who, like myself, was present +for the first time at this _concert_ of _antimusic_, exclaimed, "By Jasus +but they stop out of tune to a _nicety!"_ + +I have been since informed by an _amateur_, who resided many years in this +country, and made this species of _music_ his peculiar study, that on +these occasions the _treble_ is performed by the tree-frogs, the smallest +and most _beautiful_ species; they are always of the same colour as the +bark of the tree they inhabit, and their note is not unlike the chirp of a +cricket: the next in size are our _counter tenors_; they have a note +resembling the _setting_ of a _saw_. A still larger species sing _tenor_; +and the _under part_ is supported by the bull-frogs; which are as large as +a man's foot, and _bellow_ out the _bass_ in a tone as loud and sonorous +as that of the animal from which they take their name. + +To an Englishman lately arrived in this country there are other phenomena, +equally curious; as _fire-flies, night-hawks &c.;_ but, above all, +such tremendous peals of thunder and flashes of lightning, as can be +conceived only by those who have been in southern latitudes. + +I have often thought, if an enthusiastic _cockney_, of weak nerves, +who had never been out of the sound of Bow bell, could suddenly be +conveyed from his bed, in the middle of the night, and laid, fast asleep, +in an american swamp, he would, on waking, fancy himself in the infernal +regions: his first sensation would be from the stings of a myriad of +mosquitoes; waking with the smart, his ears would be assailed with the +horrid noises of the frogs; on lifting up his eyes he would have a faint +view of the night-hawks, flapping their ominous wings over his devoted +head, visible only from the glimmering light of the fire-flies, which he +would naturally conclude were sparks from the bottomless pit. Nothing +would be wanting at this moment to complete the illusion, but one of those +dreadful explosions of thunder and lightning, so _extravagantly_ +described by Lee, in Oedipus:-- + +"Call you these peals of thunder, but the yawn or bellowing clouds? by +Jove, they seem to me the world's last groans, and those large sheets of +flame it's last blaze!" + +I have often traversed the woods by myself at night, and sometimes during +_such scenes_; and though I was conscious that all round me proceeded from +natural causes, I could not at these times entirely forget, + +"All that the _priest_ and all the nurse had taught." + +Farewell.--Believe me + +Yours very sincerely, &c., + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, August 10th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Having a few weeks vacation at the theatre, we agreed upon a scheme to +give three concerts at Lancaster, a town in Pennsylvania, about seventy +miles west of this city. Our band was small, but select; and our singers +Darley, and miss Broadhurst. We crossed the Scuylkill about two miles +below the Falls. + +The country, which, from the Atlantic to this spot, is nearly a level, now +abruptly swells into hills, and rises as you advance westerly, till you +reach the Allegany mountains, the great _back bone_ of America, as +the Indians call that chain of mountains. There is then a considerable +descent; but that the country rises afterward for many hundred miles is +certain from the course of the rivers. No traveller has penetrated so far +west, in these latitudes, as to find a river which did not ultimately run +into the Atlantic Ocean, + +We slept about a mile from the _Pioli_. I took a walk to reconnoitre +the field of battle, with one who was present at that horrid affair. + +General Wayne was here completely surprised, but had his revenge at Stoney +Point. + +After St. Claire's defeat, he was appointed by Congress to the command of +the continental army in the present indian war. The fatal surprise at the +Pioli has been an excellent lesson for him; since his present appointment +he has established the most rigid discipline: this is of the utmost +consequence in any army; but particularly so in _that_ he commands, +as they have to contend with the most subtle and desperate foe on earth, +flushed with their late victory over St. Claire.--In a former indian war, +an army lay with it's rear and flanks well secured; a river three quarters +of a mile broad in its front, and no enemy within fifty miles. A body of +Indians, being informed by their scouts of the situation of this army, +made a forced march, crossed the river in the night, on rafts hastily +constructed, completely surprised the camp before sun-rise in the morning, +butchered all before them, and made their retreat good with their scalps +and plunder, before the enemy recovered from the general consternation. +The system of military tactics Wayne has introduced is admirably adapted +to the perilous service, in which he is engaged. He fights the Indians in +their own way, and scalps are now taken on both sides.--There is expected +to be warm work this campaign; and it is generally imagined Wayne will +meet with the fate of Braddock and St. Clare. A few military men I have +discoursed with, are of another opinion; they tell me the rifle-men of the +western army were recruited from Kentucky, and other remote settlements, +and are all experienced _back-woods-men_, who have been great part of +their lives in the habits of Indian fighting; that the general is forming +a body of cavalry, on principles entirely new, from which much is +expected; in short, that Wayne will oblige the Indians to _bury the +hatchet_ on his own terms. The Indian war is not popular. It has met +with much opposition both in the General Assemblies of the States, and in +Congress. + +The devastation that has (even within the present century) taken place +among the brave and independent aborigines of this continent, is really +shocking to humanity[Footnote: The Cherokees are by no means the +formidable body of warriors they were 40 years ago. The original +possessors of the vast tract of land which forms North Carolina, are +reduced to a single family; and several tribes of the eastern Indians +actually exterminated.]. + +I spent the evening at the Pioli, with a surgeon of the american army +lately from the scene of action; he gave me a disgusting account of the +misunderstanding that subsists between the american citizens on the +frontiers, and their neighbours in Upper Canada. It seems the Canadians +are accused of assisting the indians in the decisive action against St. +Clare. + +As many of the descendants of the original french settlers have indian +blood in their veins, the charge is not improbable, as far as relates to a +few _individuals_, but that they received either the connivance, or +protection of _government_, (as the Americans assert) is totally +without foundation. + +I never take up a western newspaper that does not teem with the most +illiberal abuse of the british government. It would therefore be +impossible to exonorate certain american citizens from _their share of +provocation_, and a wish to blow up the hardly-extinguished embers of +the late war. This temper is kept alive by french agents, who use every +means of inflaming the public mind, by the most flagrant exaggerations of +the late captures, &c.: and so successful have they been in their +misrepresentations, that a war with England would at this time be very +popular. + +_Aug. 30th_.--You can conceive nothing more beautifully romantic, +than the appearance of the country during the latter part of this day's +journey. The hills, bold, rounding, and lofty, are covered with wood to +their very summit. In the midst of this wild scenery is the mighty +_Susquana_, above a mile wide, dashing over rocks and precipices, +seventy or eighty miles distant from the flow of the tide. A similar body +of running water, perfectly clear and transparent, with so many hundred +cascades as beautify the Susquana, is perhaps no where else to be met +with. Unfortunately these very beauties render the navigation of this +noble river impracticable. + +_Aug. 31st_.--Arrived at Lancaster, a prettily situate town, of about +nine hundred houses. It is reckoned the largest inland town south of New +England, and indeed the only large town without some kind of navigation; +to remedy this inconvenience as much as possible, a turnpike road (very +superiour to any thing of the kind in America, and which will cost three +thousand dollars per mile,) is forming from Philadelphia, through +Lancaster, to the Susquana. I before told you this river, owing to the +rocks and falls, was not navigable; but I forgot to inform you, that the +inhabitants of the back country contrive to waft the produce of their +plantations down the river on floats, during the floods, in spring and +fall; which will be conveyed by means of this new road to Philadelphia, +whence it will be exported to the west indian or european markets. + +The only manufactory in Lancaster is one of rifles; they have contracted +to supply the continental army with these _"mortal engines."_ + +I have heard a hundred improbable stories relative to what was done with +the rifle by famous marksmen in America, such as shooting an apple from a +child's head, &c; to which I could not give credit: but, I have no reason +to doubt the following feat: as it was actually performed before many +hundred inhabitants of this borough, and the adjacent country.--During the +late war, in the year 1775, a company of riflemen, formed from the back +woodsmen of Virginia, were quartered here for some time: two of them +_alternately_ held a board only nine inches square between his knees, +while his comrade fired a ball through it from a distance of one hundred +paces! The board is still preserved; and I am assured by several who were +present, that it was performed without any manner of deception. + +Lancaster was originally a german settlement; the inhabitants were so +desirous of perpetuating their language, that they established german +schools for the education of the rising generation; but their descendants, +finding the inconvenience of being without a knowledge of English, now +send their children first to the german, and afterward to the english +schools; by which means they acquire a tolerable idea of both languages. +They still retain many characteristics of their ancestors; such as +frugality, plainness in dress, &c. At our first concert, three +clownish-looking fellows came into the room, and, after sitting a few +minutes, (the weather being _warm_, not to say _hot_) very composedly took +off their coats: they were in the usual summer dress of farmers servants +in this part of the country; that is to say, _without_ either stockings or +breeches, a loose pair of trowsers being the only succedaneum. As we fixed +our admission at a dollar each, (here seven shillings and sixpence,) we +expected this circumstance would be sufficient to exclude _such_ +characters; but on inquiry, I found (to my very great surprise!) our three +_sans culottes_ were german _gentlemen_ of considerable property in the +neighbourhood! + +They manage these matters better at Hanover; (a settlement of germans +about forty miles hence.) One of the articles of their dancing assembly +is in these words; "No gentleman to enter the ball-room without +_breeches_, or to be allowed to dance without his _coat_." + +All the back parts of Pennsylvania were in general cleared, and settled by +german, and irish emigrants; but the former are commonly more prosperous +than their neighbours, whom they excel in sobriety and economy, and have +also a much better understanding amongst themselves. + +An irish family often arrives, and purchases a plantation; which for some +years brings them good crops, but for want of manure will in time be worn +out (a very common case in America.) When in this situation they offer it +for sale, the adjacent german families club a sum of money, purchase the +land, plough it well, and let it remain in this state for three or four +years: they then place an emigrant family from their _own country_ +upon the farm, who, by indefatigable industry and manure, soon bring the +land round, pay for the estate by installments, and live very comfortably. +Some of the best plantations in Pennsylvania were originally left in this +manner. The irish family go two or three hundred miles up the country, +where they can purchase as much land as they please, from sixpence to a +dollar per acre: here they literally _break fresh ground_, and begin +the world again. To some timorous people, their new situation would be +thought dangerous, as they are liable to a visit from the Indians, and +perishing by the scalping knife and tomahawk.--See a former letter on back +settlers. + +_Aug. 6th_.--We returned to Philadelphia, not _overloaded_ with _cash_, +but with more than was sufficient for our expenses, which, owing to +several excursions from Lancaster, were not trifling.--Farewel.--Believe +me + +Yours very sincerely. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, 14th August, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +By captain H----, of the Betsy, who will deliver this letter, I have sent +you specimens of the federal coinage. + +When that government was formed, a mint was established, and a coinage +issued on a new plan. This was much wanted, as scarcely three of the +states agreed as to the value currency of a dollar. Here it was seven +shillings and sixpence, in South Carolina four shillings and eight pence, +at New York eight shillings, and in the New England states six shillings. +According to the new regulations, all _nominal_ coins are exploded, +and the silver dollar, weighing 17 dwts. 6 grs.[Footnote: This is the +exact weight of the spanish milled dollar, which, as well as the +divisions, are allowed to pass current; they consist of the half, quarter, +eighth, and sixteenth, also the pistreen, or fifth, and the half pistreen, +or tenth.], is fixed as the standard, divided into one hundred decimal +parts; these are of copper, and called cents. All taxes, duties and +imposts, that extend to the _whole Union_, are levied in these coins +_only_. The other federal coins, like the english guineas and crowns, +never appear on the public accounts. + +Those of _gold_ are eagles, half eagles, and quarter eagles, value ten, +five, and two and a half, dollars: of _silver_, the half, quarter, tenth, +and twentieth of the standard dollar; or fifty, twenty-five, ten, and five +cents: of _copper_, the half cent, or two hundredth part of a dollar. The +principle on which this coinage is formed is so very simple, that the +proportion they bear to each other, and the standard dollar may be found +with the utmost facility. Indeed little else is wanted than the adding or +cutting off figures or ciphers: for instance, the public accounts being +kept in two columns, dollars, and cents; suppose in adding up the latter, +you find they amount to 27621, you have only to cut off the two right hand +figures, and their value stands thus; 276 dollars, 21 cents. To reduce +eagles to dollars, add a cipher, and vice versa. To reduce half, and +quarter eagles to dollars, you have only to divide by 2 or 4 previous to +adding the cipher. + +But though the federal government has succeeded in establishing it's +coinage, the _people_ cannot be persuaded (the wholesale merchants, and a +few enlightened citizens excepted,) to come into this scheme; _they_ +obstinately insist on buying, selling, and keeping their accounts in the +_good old way of their fathers!_ that is to say, in _currency_, by pounds, +shillings, and pence; and nothing can be more complex, as they have not a +single _coin_ in circulation of the _real_ or _nominal_ value of any of +them. If you are to pay the sum of three shillings and fourpence +halfpenny, (without having recourse to the federal scheme) you must +provide yourself with three silver divisions of the Spanish dollar, viz. +the fourth, eighth, and sixteenth, three english halfpence, two of George +the Second, and one of his present majesty[Footnote: Owing to the quantity +of counterfeit english halfpence of the present reign now in circulation +in these states, those of king George the Third, whether counterfeit or +not, are depreciated to the 360th part of a dollar.]; the nominal value of +which, added together, make that sum within a very trifling fraction. + +I am informed the federal government means to fix the weights and measures +by a standard, which, like the coinage, will admit of the same _even_ +division by decimals. I am often asked why the English, after having +proved the great utility of this scheme in their chain of one hundred +links for land measuring, do not extend it to their coin, &c.? If you can +think of a good solution to this question, pray let me have it in your +next to + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, August 18th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In a former letter I mentioned the relishes of salt fish usual at +breakfast and supper in this country; they are chiefly of shad, a name +given them by the first settlers, from their having _some resemblance_ to +that fish, though in fact they are very different; and indeed this is the +case with almost every fish, bird, and other animal these Anglo-Americans +took it into their heads to christen. It is a great pity they did not call +those peculiar to this continent by their _indian_ names; and this should +also have been the case with mountains, lakes, rivers, &c. What man of any +taste will not prefer the sonorous sounds of Susquana, Patapsico, +Allegany, Raphanock, Potomack, and other _indian_ titles, to such stupid +appellations as Cape Cod, Mud Island, cat-fish, sheep's head-fish, whip +poor will, &c.? + +But to return to the _shad_, if it must be so called; it is an excellent +fish, and comes up the rivers in prodigious shoals, in the months of April +and May, to spawn. The largest nets used in this fishery are on the +Delaware, where that river is from one to two miles wide. These nets are +from one hundred and fifty to three hundred yards long. The greatest hawl +ever known was upwards of nine thousand, from four to nine pounds per +fish. + +The revolution has not yet done away a fanatical law passed by the +quakers, prohibiting the catching of these fish on a sunday; which, +considering the short time they remain in the river, is highly impolitic. + +There are thirteen fisheries within ten miles of Philadelphia; allowing +only eight sundays in the season, and ten thousand shads lost in each of +the twenty-four hours, a very moderate calculation, the aggregate loss to +Philadelphia, and the adjacent country, is eighty thousand fish, weighing +five pounds each, on an average. I say _loss_; for the return of the +fish is the same now as it was a hundred and thirty years ago, when only a +few dozen were taken in the season by the Indians. + +There is also a small fish which comes up the rivers with the shad; the +shoals this year have been uncommonly large; upwards of ten thousand have +been taken at one hawl. Like the shad, it takes salt well; and, from it's +having some resemblance to a _herring_, they give it that name, though +very different from the herring which visits the shores of Europe. I +believe there is no instance of a herring running a hundred and fifty +miles up a fresh water river, or existing at all in water perfectly fresh. + +The above particulars you may depend upon; they were communicated to me by +Mr. West, who is proprietor of the largest shad-fisheries on the Delaware. + +This river also abounds in cat-fish, perch, jack, eels, and a great +variety of others; above all, in sturgeon; which are frequently caught by +accident in the shad-nets, and either boiled for their oil, or suffered to +rot on the, shores, being very seldom sent to market: when this is the +case, they are sold for a mere trifle, chiefly to emigrants. The Americans +have conceived a violent antipathy to this fish. I recollect no instance +of seeing it at their tables. They have every externals appearance of the +european sturgeon, but in other respects must be _very different_, or +the Americans lose one of the best fisheries in the world. + +Enclosed is an extract from general Lincoln's letter on the migration of +fish. He endeavours to prove, that river fish, after their passage to the +sea, whatever time they remain there, always return to the original waters +in which they were spawned, unless some unnatural obstructions are thrown +in their way. + +Yours, &c. + +In an old History of Bermuda, published in the year 1661, is the following +passage:-- + +"There is great store of fish, which being mostly unknown to the English, +they gave them such names as best _liked_ them, as _porgie-fish, +hog-fish, yellow-tails, cony-fish_, &c." + + +EXTRACT. + +"Whilst I resided in Philadelphia, in 1782, and 1783, I discovered that +the shad brought to market from the Scuylkill were very superiour in +flavour and firmness to those taken in the Delaware, which must proceed +from their food in that river, previous to their going to the sea; as they +are taken by the nets of the fishermen, before they are six hours in that +river, on their return. I cannot think it a romantic idea, that the waters +are impregnated with certain particles, on which they have been accustomed +to feed; which is sufficient to allure them to where they were originally +spawned; or that they are piloted there by some of the old fry. This idea +will not appear improbable, when we consider the general laws which seem +to control the whole finny tribe; and what would be the consequence should +they be thrown down? The cod-fish which occupy the banks of Newfoundland, +between the latitudes of 41 and 45, are very different, and are kept so +distinct, and are so similar on the respective banks, that a man +acquainted with that fishery will separate those caught on one bank from +those of another, with as much ease as we separate the apple from the +pear. + +"I am, &c. + +"Lincoln." + + +_Baltimore, 14th October, 1794._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the 7th of September I left the city of Brotherly Love, on my way to +this town. + +After sailing down the Delaware about two hours, in the water stage, our +skipper run us on a sand bank. As there was no remedy but to wait +patiently for the flow of tide, a party of us borrowed a boat, and went a +shooting on the islands with which this part of the Delaware abounds. We +landed at Fort Miflin, which was the principal obstruction to general +Howe's progress up the river, in his way to Philadelphia, and obliged him +to go several hundred miles round; this fort also kept the whole british +fleet at bay, for some time after the army had taken possession of that +city. + +Fort Miflin, or Mud Fort (so called from it's low situation) is on an +island in the Delaware, about one third nearer the Pennsylvania, than the +Jersey shore. + +During the first general attack of the british fleet the fort set fire to +the Augusta, of 64 guns, and she shortly after blew up; and the Merlin +sloop was so roughly handled, that she was hastily evacuated. The british +admiral then procured a pilot, who carried two men of war, cut down for +that purpose, on the Pennsylvania side of the island; a manoeuvre the +Americans deemed impracticable. The works of the fort were now completely +enfiladed, and on the 15th of November, the British began; a desperate +attack, both from their ships on each side the island, and from a battery +on the Pennsylvania shore. + +The fort was supported by a battery on, the opposite side, and some +row-gallies. + +The british fire was heavy and well directed: they are supposed to have +fired 1030 shots, weighing from 12 to 32 pounds, every 20 minutes, which, +by the middle of the day, nearly levelled the works with the mud. This was +the moment to storm the fort, which being lost by the British, the remains +of the brave garrison made their retreat good to the Jersey shore the same +night. + +The British now having the complete command of the Delaware, totally +dismantled this fort: in which state it remained till last year, when a +french engineer was engaged to put it again into a state of defence. The +works are already in great forwardness: the parapets are, according to the +new french improvements, without embrasures, and the guns mounted on false +carriages. + +We also landed on several of, the other islands, and had tolerable sport. + +At high water we proceeded on our voyage, and about twelve the next day +arrived at Newcastle; whence I walked to Glasgow, a small village within a +few miles of the river Elk, where general Howe landed his troops, after +sailing two hundred and fifty miles up the bay of Chesapeak. His head +quarters were at the house where I slept; the landlord also informed me, +that I lay on the same bed general Washington occupied four times a year, +in his way to his seat at Mount Vernon; an honour I did not _exactly_ know +the _value_ of till the next morning, when he brought in _his bill_; after +satisfying my conscientious landlord, I walked to French Town, which +consists of _two houses_. This _town_ is about 17 miles from the Delaware, +and has a communication with the Chesapeak by means of the river Elk. But +there is a nearer approximation of the Chesapeak to the Delaware, from a +creek running into the latter at Apoquiminick, where the distance is only +7 miles: over this neck of land, all the trade between Philadelphia and +Baltimore is conveyed in waggons. How soon would a canal be cut in such a +situation in England! + +I embarked in the Baltimore pacquet; had a pleasant sail down the Elk; in +four hours entered the bay, and arrived here the same evening. + +_September 12th._ + +The yellow fever is certainly in town. Is it not astonishing the example +of Philadelphia last year did not teach the inhabitants of Baltimore the +necessity of building a lazaretto, and establishing a strict quarantine on +all vessels from the infected islands in the West Indies? The first was +not even attempted, and the last so carelessly performed, that I am +mistaken if the fever has not been imported into more than _one_ part +of the town. + +_Sept. 29th_.--The theatre closed at the request of the committee of +health, the fever gaining ground rapidly, and the inhabitants quitting the +town as fast as possible. + +_October the 2d_. + +The committee of health published their list of deaths, which they mean to +continue every 24 hours. Died since the 1st of August 344 persons. The +next day a violent cold and penetrating N.W. wind set in, with uncommon +severity, which has entirely stopped the infection. + +_Oct. 14th_.--The late cold weather has completely destroyed the +yellow fever. The inhabitants are returned, and trade is restored to its +usual course. + +Yours, sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +Baltimore and the Point[Footnote: Or Fell's Point, the name given to a +small but well-situated town about a mile lower down the bay.] may be +considered but as one town, as the interval that parts them is already +laid out for building. + +There is not perhaps on the face of the earth so many excellent situations +for a sea-port as in this vicinity; and yet they have fixed on the very +spot where the town should _not_ be. + +Baltimore, by being built so far from the bay of Chesapeak, has not depth +of water for a vessel of two hundred tons, nearer than the Point. The +lower part of the town is a dead flat, intersected with canals and docks, +filled with stagnated water from the Basin: owing to this circumstance the +town is unhealthy at certain seasons, and subject, in the fall, to +musquitoes: these inconveniences might have been avoided by building the +town a mile lower, on either side the bay. + +But there is a much better situation for a town and port on an inlet from +the Patapsico, west of the town, round a point, which runs about W.N.W. +where I have marked No. 10. + +On this spot is water for a vessel of eight hundred tons burden, +sufficiently fresh to exclude the worms, and at the same time a current +strong enough to prevent stagnation. A bay perfectly secure from the N.W. +and other dangerous winds, a gradual rise of ground consisting of a fine +dry gravel to build upon; in short, every natural advantage. This was the +original situation designed for the town; but the proprietor was concerned +in a wharf in this neighbourhood, and fearing the new town would injure +his business, positively refused his consent to the proposals made him on +this occasion, and by that means, lost one of the first estates perhaps +ever offered to an individual. + +I was in this bay, on a fishing party, a few days ago, with one of his +descendants, who was lamenting the infatuation of his ancestor. This +gentleman was so kind as to point out and explain the foregoing +particulars. + +You will naturally inquire how the town came to be built in it's present +situation? The governor of the province was proprietor of most of the +land. Is not _that_ a sufficient reason. + +About forty years ago the two towns of Baltimore, and the Point, contained +only _two_ brick houses, and a few wooden ones: in a late edition of +Salmon's Geography, I find Baltimore described as consisting of a few +straggling houses, scarcely deserving the _name_ of a _town_. Within these +fifteen years it has increased in size and population beyond all +precedent. It now contains nearly twenty thousand inhabitants; and, in +point of trade, Baltimore is the fourth town in America. + +The following anecdote will give you some idea of the growth of the town, +and amazing increase in the value of land:-- + +An english gentleman, who emigrated to this country some years ago, built +a small _country seat_ on the side of the race ground; this house is +now in the possession of a colonel Rogers, and in the _centre street of +Baltimore_. The colonel has sold the wings for two thousand guineas to +build upon, and still retains the house. + +But the improvements have not advanced in proportion to the buildings; +there is scarcely a dozen lamps in the whole town, which is badly paved, +&c. + +All the inhabitants agree as to the necessity of establishing a powerful, +and energetic government, for the regulation of the town, _somewhere_; but +though frequent town meetings have been called, they cannot agree about +the _means_. + +Something must soon be done, as the nuisances are every day increasing. + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + +Since writing the above, the general assembly has ordered fifty thousand +dollars be raised by lottery, which are laid out in paving the town, and +clearing the Basin. Two enormous machines have been constructed on the +dutch plan, to work with oxen, which make such progress in clearing the +channel, that it is expected in a few years it will be sufficiently deep, +to admit the largest merchantmen to come up to the wharfs of the town. And +since my landing in England, my brother informs me, Baltimore is at last +incorporated; a vigorous police established; and improvements are going on +with spirit. + + * * * * * + +_Baltimore, November 27th, 1794._ + +DEAR SIR, + +Yours of the 21st of August I received.--So I find you fall into the +commonplace notion of the English, that manufactories are forming here, +which will in a short time render all importation of british goods +unnecessary. Take my word for it, you have nothing of that kind to fear, +whilst the United States have so few inhabitants, and so _much_ of +their best land uncultivated. It is not their _interest_ to engage in +manufactories; and when the country is sufficiently populous, it will be +easier to conquer South America, and procure thence the _means_ of +purchasing commodities, than to go through the _drudgery_ of their +_fabrication_: but at present such is the cheapness of land, and the high +price of wheat, and other produce, that it has raised the value of labour +beyond the profits of almost any manufacture. If they could be established +with effect in any part of America, it would be in the _New England +states_, where the population is more than double those of the south; and +provision much cheaper; but the New Englanders, when they fancy themselves +too populous, rather than engage in a laborious trade, prefer emigration +to the _Genasee_[Footnote: The Genasee is a rich tract of country, a +considerable distance west of New York, much resorted to by New England +emigrants since the peace with the Six Nations. Kentucky is at least one +thousand miles from the nearest of the New England states, two hundred of +which are through a wilderness, which cannot be passed during an indian +war, without great danger.], or even Kentucky. The same restless, +enterprising spirit, which brought their ancestors from Europe, carries +them to these remote western settlements; and I have no doubt their +descendants will continue the same in that direction; till the Pacific +Ocean[Footnote: A distance of more than two thousand miles from the most +remote western settlement.] stops their further progress; unless, as I +before observed, lured by a _golden bait_, they go to the _south_: let the +Spaniard look to that.--The manufactories in this country that have fallen +under my observation are one of rifles at Lancaster, another of musquets +at Connecticut, and at German Town, in Pennsylvania, a peculiar sort of +winter stockings. An American has lately procured a patent from Congress, +for cutting brads out of sheet iron with an engine. The american iron is +of an excellent quality, and possesses a great degree of malleability, +which perhaps suggested the first idea of this invention. The following +extract from the advertisement of the patentee will enable you, to form +some judgment of this singular undertaking: "He begs leave to observe +their superiority to english-wrought brads consists in their being quite +regular in their shape, so much so, that ten thousand may be drove through +the thinnest pine board, without using a brad-awl, or splitting the board. +They have the advantage also of being cut _with the grain_ of the iron; +others are cut _against_ it. He has already three engines at work, which +can turn out two hundred thousand per day." + +Another patent has been granted for making the teeth of cotton and wool +cards by an engine, which is supposed to be a similar process. + +There are also manufactories of cotton, sail cloth, gun-powder, glass, +&c., but of no great consequence. + +Their sawing-mills are numerous, and well constructed; this circumstance, +and the great quantity of timber, mast, spars, &c., with which this +country abounds, enable them to build vessels considerably under what you +can afford in England, though the wages of a shipwright are now two +dollars and a quarter per day. Theirs ships, in point of model and +sailing, if not superiour, are at least equal to the best european-built +vessels, and when constructed of _live oak_, and _red cedar_, are equally +durable. Vessels of this description are scarce. Live oak is rarely met +with north of the Carolinas: that used in the Boston ship-yards is brought +from Georgia; a distance of more than a thousand miles, + +Yours sincerely, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, February 21st 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +You know one motive for my coming to this country was, that I might have +an unlimited range in my two favourite amusements, shooting, and fishing, +and in both I have had tolerable sport. But as few except emigrants, +follow the european method of shooting, I cannot purchase a pointer for +any sum: pray send me one by an early fall ship, and if possible smuggle +me half a dozen pounds of Battel powder; for since you have begun to cut +one another's throats in Europe, I find it impossible to procure any but +dutch, and that unglazed, at the _moderate_ price of two dollars a +pound. + +We have two kinds of partridges; one larger, and the other smaller, than +those of Europe: the former reside chiefly in the woods, and is in the +southern states called a pheasant; but it is in fact neither one nor the +other: the latter is called a quail in the northern states. The flesh of +these birds is perfectly rich, white, and juicy, and though it has not a +game flavour, is a very great delicacy. In other respects (except their +size, and that they occasionally perch on the branches of a tree,) they +differ very little in their plumage, call, manner of keeping in coveys, +&c., from the partridge of England. They are amazingly prolific; I have +often found twelve or fourteen coveys in the course of a few hours +shooting; this will appear extraordinary, when you are informed there are +no game laws in America, and that all ranks of citizens, or even a negro, +may destroy them in any manner he pleases. When the snow is on the ground, +whole coveys are taken in traps, and brought alive to market. They fly +swiftly, and afford an excellent shot; but if the same covey be shot at a +second time, they will often seek a refuge in the woods, whence it is +difficult to dislodge them. They are very hardy, and will bear almost any +degree of heat and cold; this circumstance, and their being so prolific, I +should think would make a breed of them in England a very desirable +acquisition. I am determined to bring over a few couples, by way of +experiment. + +We are visited by a sort of woodcock in July and August; we have also a +kind of grouse, plover, dove, and wild pigeon, snipe, wild fowl, +and a wonderful variety of small birds; among which, the _reed-bird_ +[Footnote: So called from their note resembling the word _reed_.], or +american ortolan, justly holds the first place: they visit us from the +south, and are found at certain seasons as far as the West Indies in that +direction. + +The back woodsmen, and indeed all western settlers, affect to despise our +mode of shooting; they all use rifles, and throw a single ball to a great +degree of certainty. The riflemen in the last war were all of this +description, _Their_ game are deer, bear, beaver, and other animals. +The only _bird_ they think worthy their attention is the wild turkey. +An american naturalist (Bartram) says, "Our turkey of America is a very +different species from the meleagris of Asia and Europe. I have seen +several that have weighed between twenty and thirty pounds, and some have +been killed that have weighed nearly forty pounds." + +Why do not the Americans domesticate this noble bird? They are much better +adapted to bear this climate than the puny breed their ancestors imported +from England. The few that are shot so far to the eastward as to be +brought to our markets bear a great price. + +The shooting of the back settlers is rather _business_ than _sport_. When +they are inclined for a frolic of the latter sort, they meet in large +parties to shoot the gray squirrel: the devastation made on these +occasions is incredible; the following is from the Kentucky Gazette; and I +have no doubt, that it is strictly true:-- + + +"_Lexington, July 13th._ + +"At a squirrel-hunt in Madison county, on the 29th and 30th ult., the +hunters rendezvoused at captain Archibald Wood's, and upon counting the +_scalps_[Footnote: By scalp is here meant skin, which is an excellent +fur.] taken, it was found they amounted to 5589!" + +This sport is not confined to the back woods, but is in such general +estimation, as to be preferred to all other shooting. They find this game +by means of a mongrel breed of dogs, trained for that purpose; the +squirrel, on being pursued, immediately ascends one of the most lofty +trees he can find; the dog follows, and makes a point under the tree, +looking up for his game. The squirrel hides himself behind the branches, +and practises a thousand manoeuvres to avoid the shot; sometimes springing +from one tree to another, with astonishing agility. Nature has given him a +thick fur; this circumstance, and the height of the trees, make a long +barrel, and large shot, indispensable in this kind of shooting. The best +method of cooking the squirrel is in a ragout; this I learnt of a french +epicure, who always speaks with rapture of this _bonne bouche_: it +has a high game flavour, and is justly thought by the Americans to be an +excellent dish; but we have many English, who, through mere prejudice, +never tasted this animal; their antipathy also extends to bear, opossum, +racoon, and cat-fish:--"Oh!" say the english ladies, "the _sight_ of +such frightful creatures is quite enough for me!"' + +Fishing parties among the farmers, and in small towns in some parts of +America, are very agreeably arranged: twelve or fourteen neighbours form +themselves into a sort of club, and agree to fish one day in the week +during the summer; previous: to which they fix on a romantic situation on +the side of a wood commanding the intended scene of action. Under some of +the large trees they erect a sort of hut, forming a dining-room and +kitchen. + +When the time is fixed to begin fishing, the steward for the day sends +down a negro cook, with bread, butter, wine, liquors, culinary utensils, +etc. About ten in the morning the fishermen arrive, and follow the sport +in boats, canoes, or from the shore, either with angles or nets; but they +seldom make use of the latter, except when they are disappointed in +angling: they are then determined the fish, though not in a humour to +bite, shall not deprive them of their dinner. At one they all meet at the +place of general rendezvous, where all hands are employed in preparing the +fish for the cook; by which means the dinner is soon on the table.--When +over, and a few glasses have circulated, those who do not choose to remain +drinking, take a nap during the heat of the day, which in this country is +from two to four in the afternoon. At five the ladies arrive, and the +company amuse themselves in catching fish for supper, walking in the +woods, swinging, singing, playing on some musical instrument, &c. I +have often been on these parties, and never spent my time more to my +satisfaction; which is more than you will be able to say of that spent in +reading this scrawl from + +Yours, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, May 7th, 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In answer so your last, respecting the aborigines of this continent, I am +almost ashamed to inform you, I have scarcely any particulars on the +subject worth troubling you with. Ever since my arrival in America, I have +made up my mind to take the first opportunity of going to the westward on +a shooting party, for a month or two, among the Indians; for which purpose +I procured an introduction to the young _corn-planter_, son to a +chief of the six nations, who is here for his education. He was no sooner +informed of my intention, than he gave me a cordial invitation to attend +him on his return in the fall; or, if I could not then make it convenient, +at any other time; but the distance is so great, that, to confess the +truth, I have never yet been able to raise the _necessary supplies_, +and am likely to leave America without seeing a single wigwam. + +The Indians have a fine natural genius for oratory, painting, and +sculpture: I have a specimen of the latter cut with a knife on a piece of +hickory, which is destitute neither of elegance of design, nor neatness of +execution. But the most extraordinary trait in the character of these _red +men_ is their _continence_. We have every year fourteen or fifteen of +their chiefs in this city, to form treaties, and other public business. +They are often attended with well-made young men in the prime of life, +and yet I never heard but of _one_ instance of their engaging in a +love-intrigue of _any kind_. They frequently tomahawk and scalp the most +beautiful women, who are so unfortunate as to fall into their hands in +time of war.--Each warrior cuts the number of scalps he has taken on his +war club, and distinguishes the sex by certain marks. Several of these +clubs, and other indian trophies taken from famous chiefs in former wars, +are deposited in the Philadelphia Museum. On one war club I counted _five_ +fatal proofs of the savage who owned the weapon having butchered as many +women! + +But whatever cruelties they practise on their female captives, they are +never known to take the slightest liberty with them _bordering on +indecency_. Mary Rowlandson, a fanatic, who was captured in 1765, has +the following passage in her narrative: + +"I have been in the midst of these roaring lions, and savage bears, that +neither fear God, man, nor devil, by day and night, _alone_, and in +company, _sleeping all sorts together_, and yet not one of them offered me +the least abuse of unchastity, in word or action!" + +Charlevoix, in his account of the Canadian Indians, says, there is no +example of their having taken the least liberty with any of the french +women, even when their prisoners. In short, all accounts allow them this +extraordinary male virtue, but differ whether it proceeds from education, +or what the french call temperament. + +But as they do not look upon chastity as a necessary requisite in the +character of the squaws _before_ marriage, these ladies are said by +the white traders to be _less eminent_ for this virtue than their +warriors. + +The works of F---- being little known in England, I send you some +specimens of his writing on _indian_ subjects; and, however uncouth, +his language may appear, you may rely on the truth and accuracy of his +descriptions:-- + + + +THE INDIAN STUDENT; +or, +FORCE OF NATURE. + + +RURA MIHI ET RIGUI PLACEANT IN VALLIBUS AMNES; +ILUMINA AMEM, SYLVASQUE INGLORIUS. + +Virg. Georg. 2d. v. 483. + + * * * * * + +From Susquehanna's utmost springs, + Where savage tribes pursue their game, +His blanket tied with yellow strings, + A shepherd of the forest came. + +Not long before, a wandering priest + Express'd his wish with visage sad-- +'Ah, why,' he cry'd, 'in Satan's waste, + 'Ah, why detain so fine a lad? + +'In Yanky land there stands a town + 'Where learning may be purchas'd low-- +'Exchange his blanket for a gown, + 'And let the lad to college go.' + +From long debate the council rose, + And viewing Shalum's tricks with joy, +To _Harvard hall_[1], o'er wastes of snows, + They sent the copper-colour'd boy. +[Footnote 1: Harvard college, at Cambridge, near Boston.] + +One generous chief a bow supply'd, + This gave a shaft, and that a skin; +The feathers, in vermilion dy'd, + Himself did from a turkey win: + +Thus dress'd so gay, he took his way + O'er barren hills, alone, alone! +His guide a star, he wander'd far, + His pillow every night a stone. + +At last he came, with leg so lame, + Where learned men talk heathen Greek, +And hebrew lore is gabbled o'er, + To please the muses, twice a week. + +A while he writ, a while he read, + A while he learn'd the grammar rules.-- +An indian savage, so well bred, + Great credit promis'd to their schools. + +Some thought, he would in law excel, + Some said, in physic he would shine; +And one, that knew him passing well, + Beheld in him a sound divine. + +But those of more discerning eye, + E'en then could _other_ prospects show, +And saw him lay his Virgil by, + To wander with his dearer _bow_. + +The tedious hours of study spent, + The heavy-moulded lecture done, +He to the woods a hunting went, + But sigh'd to see the setting sun. + +No mystic wonders fir'd his mind; + He sought to gain no learn'd degree, +But only sense enough to find + The _squirrel in the hollow tree_. + +The shady bank, the purling stream, + The woody wild his heart possess'd; +The dewy lawn his morning dream + _In fancy's gayest colours dress'd._ + +'And why,' he cried, 'did I forsake + My native wood for gloomy walls? +The silver stream, the limpid lake, + For musty books and college halls? + +'A little could my wants supply-- + Can wealth and honour give me more? +Or, will the sylvan god deny + The humble treat he gave before? + +'Let seraphs reach the bright abode, + And Heav'n's sublimest mansions see:-- +I only bow to Nature's God-- + _The land of shades_, will do for _me_. + +'These dreadful secrets of the sky + 'Alarm my soul with chilling fear:-- +'Do planets in their orbits fly? + 'And is the Earth, indeed, a sphere? + +'Let planets still their aim pursue, + 'And comets round creation run-- +'In Him my faithful friend I view, + 'The image of my God--the Sun. + +'Where Nature's ancient forests grow, + 'And mingled laurel never fades, +'My heart is fix'd; and I must go + 'To die among my native shades.' + +He spoke,--and to the western springs + (His gown discharged, his money spent) +His blanket tied with yellow strings, + The shepherd of the forest went. + +Returning to the rural reign, + The Indians welcom'd him with joy; +The council took him home again, + And bless'd the copper-coloured boy. + +Our author, brings his hero again upon the stage, under the title of + + +THE SPLENETIC INDIAN. + +"To the best of my recollection, it was about the middle of the month of +August; we were sitting on a green bank by the brook side; the fox grapes +were not yet come to maturity; but we were anticipating the pleasure we +should soon experience in eating some fine clusters, that at this instant +hung over our heads in the tall shade of a beech tree; when, upon a sudden +clamour raised by some young fellows, who were advancing rapidly towards +us, the learned Indian sachem Tomo-cheeki, who at this time happened to be +my friend and companion, seized me by the hand, and intimated a strong +desire, that I should accompany him to his _wigwam_, situate at many +miles distance in the wilderness. + +"A request so unusual, and at such a sultry season of the year (it being +now the height of the dog days), and to all appearance occasioned by so +trifling a circumstance as the approach of a few noisy bacchanalians, +could not but give me some surprise. I nevertheless accepted his offer, +and we then walked on together westward, without saying a word, though not +forgetting to kindle our pipes afresh at the first house we came to. + +"We had no sooner entered the forest, than I began to be convinced, that +all things around us were precisely such as nature had finished them; the +trees were straight and lofty, and appeared as if they had never been +obliged to art in their progress to maturity; the streams of water were +winding and irregular, and not odiously drawn into a right line by the +spade of the ditcher. The soil had never submitted to the ploughshare, and +the air that circulated through this domain of nature was replete with +that balmy fragrance, which was breathed into the lungs of the long-lived +race of men, that flourished in the first ages of the world. + +"At last we approached the wigwam, as I discovered by the barking of a +yellow dog, who ran out to meet us. The building seemed to be composed of +rough materials, and at most was not more than eight feet in height, with +a hole in the centre of the roof, to afford a free passage to the smoke +from within. It was situate in a thicket of lofty trees, on the side of a +stream of clear water, at a considerable distance from the haunts of +civilized men. A young indian girl was angling in the deepest part of the +stream, whence she every now and then drew a trout, or some other +inhabitant of the waters. An old squaw sat at a very small distance, and, +after cutting off the heads, and extracting the entrails, hung the fish in +the smoke, to preserve them against the time of winter. + +"The Indian and myself then entered the wigwam, and without ceremony +seated ourselves on blocks of wood covered with fox skins. The furniture +of his habitation consisted of scarcely any thing besides. The flooring +was that which was originally common to all men and animals. I thought +myself happy, that I had been permitted to come into the world, in an age +when some vestige of the primitive men, and their manners of living, were +yet to be found. A few ages will totally obliterate the scene. + +"I now determined to teaze the Indian, if possible--'But for a man of your +education,' says I, 'sachem Tomo-cheeki; to bury yourself in this savage +retreat, is to me inexplicable. You who have travelled on foot no less +than one hundred and seventeen leagues, till you reached the walls of +Havard college, and all for the sake of gaining an insight into languages, +arts, and mysteries; and then to neglect all you have acquired at last, is +a mode of conduct, for which I cannot easily account--What! was not the +mansion of a fat _clergyman_ a more desirable acquisition than this +miserable hut, these gloomy forests, and yonder savage stream?--Were not +the food and liquor belonging to the white men of the _law_ far superiour +to these insipid fish, these dried roots, and these running waters?--Were +not a _physician's_ cap, an elegant morning gown, and a grave suit of +black clothes, made by an european tailor, more tempting to your +imagination, than this wretched blanket, that is eternally slipping from +your shoulders, unless it be fastened with skewers, which are by no means +convenient?' + +"Pardon me,' replied the Indian, 'if all those blessings and advantages +you have mentioned seemed nothing to my view, in comparison with these +_divine solitudes_: opinion alone is happiness. The _Great Man_, +who has chosen his habitation beyond the stars, will dispose of us as he +pleases. I am under an obligation of passing happily here that life which +he has given me, because in so doing I serve and adore him. I could not +but be sorrowful, were I to be removed for ever from this stream. Let me +alone, white man; others shall make laws, and pass sleepless nights, for +the advantage of the world; sachem Tomo-cheeki will leave all things to +the _invisible direction_; and, provided he can be contented in his +_wigwam_, the end of his existence is accomplished. + +"But,' continued he, 'of what great value can that education be, +which does not inculcate moral and social _honesty_ as it's first and +greatest principle. The knowledge of all things above and below is of +inconsiderable worth, unconnected with the heart of rectitude and +benevolence.--Let us walk to the remains of an old indian town; the bones +of my ancestors repose in its vicinity.'-- + +"He had scarcely uttered these words when he seized his staff, and rushed +out of the wigwam with a sort of passionate violence, as if deeply +agitated at the recollection of the past, present, and future fate of his +countrymen.--I followed him with equal celerity. 'But,' said he, 'it is in +vain to grieve! In three centuries there will not be one individual of all +our race existing upon the Earth. I lately passed this stream, and it +being swollen with rains at my return, I could not without the greatest +danger cross over it again to my wigwam; the winds raged, the rain fell, +and the storms roared around me. I laid me down to sleep beneath a copse +of hazles. Immediately the unbodied souls of my ancestors appeared before +me. Grief was in their countenances. All fixed their eyes upon me, and +cried, one after the other, "_Brother, it is time thou hadst also +arrived in our abodes: thy nation is extirpated, thy lands are gone, thy +choicest warriors are slain; the very wigwam in which thou residest is +mortgaged for three barrels of hard cider! Act like a man, and if nature +be too tardy in bestowing the favour, it rests with yourself to force your +way into the invisible mansions of the departed_." + +"By this time we had arrived at the ruins of the old indian town. The +situation was highly romantic, and of that kind which naturally inclines +one to be melancholy. At this instant a large heavy cloud obscured the +sun, and added a grace to the gloominess of the scene. The vestiges of +streets and squares were still to be traced; several favourite trees were +yet standing, that had outlived the inhabitants; the stream ran, and the +springs flowed, as lively as ever, that had afforded refreshment to so +many generations of men, that were now passed away, never to return. All +this while the Indian had melancholy deeply depicted in his countenance; +but he did not shed many tears, till we came to that quarter where his +ancestors had been entombed. 'This spot of land,' said he, recovering +himself a little, 'was once sacred to the dead; but it is now no longer +so! This whole town, with a large tract around it, not even excepting the +bones of our progenitors, has been sold to a stranger. We were deceived +out of it, and that by a man who understood Greek and Hebrew; five kegs of +whiskey did the business: he took us in the hour of dissipation, when the +whole universe appeared to us but a little thing; how much less then, this +comparatively small tract of country, which was, notwithstanding, our +whole dependance for the purposes of hunting and fishing!----Here,' +continued he, sighing, 'was the habitation of _Tawlongo_, one of our +most celebrated warriors. He, in his time, could boast of having gained no +fewer than one hundred and twenty-seven complete victories over his +enemies; yet he was killed at last by an unarmed _Englishman_. + +"Here, too, on the opposite side of the way, stood the house of +_Pilaware_, the admirable; she had been addressed by thirty-three suitors +of her own nation, but refused them all, and went off at last with an +_irish pedlar_, for the sake of three yards of silver riband, and a new +blanket. Yonder stood the dwelling of _Scuttawabah_, my immediate +ancestor; he died for joy of having found a keg of rum, that had been lost +by some western trader. May his joys be continued behind the western +mountains--Recollection overcomes me--Let us return to the wigwam in the +forest.' + +"As soon as we had reached this sequestered abode, the Indian once more +sat himself down, and leaned his head upon his hand, melancholy enough, to +be sure. + +"The old squaw desired to know why he was so sorrowful--The _remedy_,' +said she, _is in your power_.'--He then started up, as if suddenly +recollecting somewhat, and cried out, 'Existence is but a dream, an +agreeable dream indeed, if we only choose to consider it as such.--Bring +me that jug of strong cider; it will be my friend, when all others fail +and forsake me--Choicest gift of God to man! and which the white people +alone possess the art and knowledge of producing!'--He courteously offered +me a share of his beverage; but I found it so intolerably sour, that I was +forced to swear by all the gods of the Indians, I would not have any +connexion with it.--He then pointed to the stream where the girl was +angling, and said, with a peasant countenance that had brightened up for a +moment, 'Go; you are a _sober_ man; the clear waters are good for +you; for my own part, this juice of the apple shall be sufficient.'--Two +hours now elapsed, without any one uttering a word.--The Indian had by +this time drunk two large gallons of cider; and recollecting in an +instant, he had signed away his lands and wigwam, some days before, for a +_mere trifle_, he became at once outrageous; his rage heightened to +an alarming degree of extravagance by the strong fumes of the liquor he +had swallowed.--'_It is enough_,' said he; '_my house and lands are +departed: I will speak a word in favour of suicide_. + +"'Tis all in vain! These flowers, these streams, these solitary shades, +are nothing to me. I shall not offend the spirit of truth when I say, they +are odious in my eyes. Sixty times has the sun performed his journey of a +year, since I was first struck with the beauty of his yellow rays. Could I +be a witness of sixty yet to come, would there be any thing new, or which +I had not seen before? It is high time we should intrude ourselves into +the invisible abodes, when all things satiate and grow stale upon us here +below. I will this very night enclose myself in my wigwam, and, setting it +on fire, depart with the thin vapour that shall arise from the dried wood +of the forest, when piled around me--No, no,' continued he, tasting the +remains of his cider '_there is nothing new_; all is _old, stale; +and insipid_.' + +"At this instant an Indian trader alighted at the door. He appeared to +have come a considerable distance, and now proffered to barter a keg of +_french brandy_ for some beaver skins, he saw hanging out a post. + +"French brandy!' cried Tomo cheekily 'that must be something _new_.' + +"It is surely such,' replied the wandering trader, 'at least in this +remote wilderness.' + +"I will taste it, by Heaven,' said the Indian. + +"But will it not prove the falsehood of your position and assertion,' +interrupted I, 'that there is nothing _new under the sun? To him that +exists through all ages nothing can be strange or novel; with the +transitory race of man, the case is wholly different. Art and Nature are +combined in perpetually composing new forms and substances for his use and +amusement on the ocean of life_.' + +"The Divinity himself must surely reside in that precious liquor!' +exclaimed the Indian, after tasting it a second time; 'take all my skins +and furs; and when the dawn of the morning appears, return home, stranger, +and bring a fresh supply of this celestial beverage. My existence had +indeed begun to be a burden: I was meditating, to extricate myself by the +shortest method. I have now learned wisdom, and am convinced, that it is +_variety alone that can make life desirable."_ + + * * * * * + +In order to understand the following, I must inform you, F---- had been +telling the story of a love-distracted maid, somewhat similar to Sterne's +Maria. You will suppose her lately to have put an end to her existence.-- + +"We had not proceeded very far on our way, when we discovered a funeral +procession advancing towards us, headed by the parson of the parish in +which we were. He was a little man, dressed in black, with a scarf hanging +over his left shoulder.--Upon inquiry, we found they were proceeding to a +church about a league distant, where the corpse they attended was to be +deposited. + +"And to whom may this body belong?" said the _indian physician_, +addressing the man who walked in the rear of the procession. + +"It is the corpse of the unfortunate Marcia,' replied the other, speaking +low; 'she died suddenly, yesterday morning, and is now carrying to be +interred in the vault of her ancestors.' We were much affected at this +intelligence, as we had hoped to hear of her recovery, instead of her +decease. + +"At the request of my friend, the man in the white linen coat, the Indian +agreed to attend the funeral along with us, and accordingly we all three +fell in among the followers, and travelled on with a slow pace till we +came to the scene of interment. The situation was wild and gloomy. Naked +rocks, dark cedars, the head of a small lake, and the venerable tombs of +the dead, completed the scenery. + +"It was pity,' said I, 'to the singing clerk, who stood near me, 'that +Fate has so ordered matters, that this young creature should depart the +world in so very extravagant a condition of mind. Though too many pass +their whole lives in a state of insanity, it were to be wished, that, +towards the evening, the clouds of phrensy might be dissipated, and the +sun of reason set clear.' + +"The singing clerk looked full in my face, opened his mouth wide, and was +about to make some reply, when silence was ordered, that the clergyman +might pronounce a speech over the body; but his reverence stumbled at the +threshold: he had unluckily forgot his pocket Bible, and could not +recollect his _text_. + +"Cannot he say something applicable to the melancholy occasion,' whispered +the Indian, 'without the formality of taking a _text_?' + +"Were you to give him three worlds, each as rich as a dozen of the +Indies,' replied the clerk, 'you could not get a word out of him on any +other condition.' + +"The sexton of the parish was then ordered to mount one of the horses, and +make the best of the way to the good doctor's house, to bring the Bible. + +"After waiting a full and entire hour, he returned with the vexatious +intelligence, that the Bible was not to be found--it was stolen--or, it +was hid--or it had been _neglected_--or, it was mislaid--or they knew +not what had been done with it.--'More is the pity!' exclaimed the singing +clerk. + +"The doctor of divinity then mounted the horse himself, apparently with +some uneasiness, and set out personally to bring the Bible at all events. + +"By this time, however, the sun was set, and the whole company stood +waiting in anxious expectation of the clergyman's return, till darkness +had taken possession of the earth; but there was yet no appearance of +either the divine or his Bible. + +"As it is more than probable he cannot find his book,' said the man in the +white linen coat, 'I am positive he will not return at all; and, as it is +now almost dark, I am of opinion the sooner the funeral ceremonies are +finished the better. The body of the unfortunate Marcia ought not to be +deposited in these silent retreats of death without some living token of +our respect. She was amiable while living, and notwithstanding the +misfortune of a disordered brain, and an innocent, unsuspecting confidence +in another's honour, is, in my way of thinking, no less amiable when +dead.--Our friend, the Indian will, I know, be complaisant enough on this +occasion to give us a few sentences, and then the venerable sexton may +proceed to close the scene, and we shall be at liberty to return to our +respective homes.' + +"This man is not in holy orders,' cried the sexton. + +"He does not wear a black coat or gown,' said the singing clerk. + +"He has not a gray wig on his head, observed one of the church wardens. + +"It is no matter,' replied the man in the white linen coat, 'he has a +plain understanding, has written a treatise on the virtues of tobacco, and +knows what is common sense, as well as the best of you.' + +"Casting my eyes at this instant toward the east, I perceived a glimmering +among the trees, which proved to be the moon rising, two days after the +full. The evening was calm and serene, and every thing was hushed, except +the surge of the ocean, which we could distinctly hear breaking on the +rocks of the adjacent coasts; when, finding the parish clergyman did not +return, the Indian shook the dew from his blanket, stepped boldly upon a +tombstone of black marble, and, for reasons best known to himself, +preferring the Indian style on this occasion, he thus began:-- + +"Instead of these dismal countenances, why have we not a feast of seven +days? Instead of the voice of sorrow, why are not the instruments of music +touched by the hand of skill? Fair daughter of the morning! thou didst not +perish by slow decay. At the rising of the sun we saw thee; the ruddy +bloom of youth was then upon thy countenance; In the evening thou wert +nothing; and the pallid complexion of death had taken place of the bloom +of beauty.--And now thou art gone to sit down in the gardens that are +found at the setting of the sun, behind the western mountains, where the +daughters of the white men have a separate place allotted to them by the +spirit of the hills. As much as the mind is superiour to the body, so much +are those charming regions preferable to these which we now inhabit. Man +is here but an image of himself, the representation of an idea that in +itself is not subjected to a change. That which derived it's origin from +the dust shall indeed to the dust return; but the fine ethereal substance +does not cease to think, and shall be again employed by the immortal gods +to put the forms of things in motion. What was thine errour?--It was +nothing: the bow was too mighty for the string, and the foundation too +feeble for the fabric that was built upon it. All shall be right when thou +art arrived at the foot of the mountains, where the sound of the wintry +winds will not be permitted to reach thee, and where the light of the lamp +is not extinguished by the sickly blasts of autumn.---- + +_"What infernal stuff is this?'_ exclaimed the clergyman, who at this +period of the Indian's discourse had returned on a full gallop with a +large folio Bible before him: _'what infernal heretical trash is this, +with which my ears are insulted?--Miscreant, avaunt!'_ said he, addressing +the Indian, _'or I will teach you how to make speeches within the bounds +of my jurisdiction,'_ + +"The Indian then modestly stepped down from the tombstone, and the +legitimate clergyman took his place. After making a slight apology for his +stay, he read his text by the light from a horn lantern, which the clerk +held up to his nose, and then proceeded to mumble over a written discourse +upon the subject he had chosen, and which held him about half an +hour.--'In my country,' observed the Indian, 'they would make a more +_animated_ speech at the interment of a _favourite racoon_!' + +"'This divinity-monger is the angel of our church,' answered the man in the +white linen coat; 'and it is dangerous to criticise upon his productions, +especially as he considers every one to be in the wrong, who does not +precisely fall in with his own opinions in matters appertaining to +religion.' + +"'Weak men are always arrogant, positive, and self-conceited,' replied the +Indian. + +"'Let us hasten home,' whispered the man in the white linen, coat, 'for the +night begins to wear apace." + + * * * * * + +Before the following lines are read, represent to yourself, that some of +the tribes of Indians bury their dead in a sitting posture.-- + + + +LINES +OCCASIONED BY A VISIT TO +AN OLD INDIAN BURYING-GROUND. + +In spite of all the learn'd have said, + I still my old opinion keep, +The _posture_ that _we_ give the dead, + Points out the soul's eternal sleep. + +Not so the ancients of these lands:-- + The Indian, when from life releas'd, +Again is seated with his friends, + And shares again the joyous feast. + +His imag'd birds, and painted bowl, + And ven'son for a journey drest, +Bespeak the _nature_ of the soul-- + _Activity_, that wants no rest. + +His bow for action ready bent, + And arrows with a head of bone, +Can only mean that life is spent, + And not the finer essence gone. + +Thou, stranger, that shalt come this way, + No fraud upon the dead commit; +Yet, mark the swelling turf, and say, + 'They do not _lie_, but here they _sit_' + +Here still a lofty rock remains, + On which the curious eye may trace +(Now wasted half by weiring rains) + The fancies of a ruder race. + +Here still an aged elm aspires, + Beneath whose far projecting shade +(And which the shepherd still admires) + The children of the forest play'd. + +There oft a restless indian queen, + (Pale Marian, with her braided hair) +And many a barb'rous form, is seen, + To chide the man that lingers there. + +By midnight moons, o'er moist'ning dews, + In vestments for the chace array'd, +The hunter still the deer pursues-- + The hunter and the deer--a shade. + +And long shall tim'rous fancy see + The painted chief, and pointed spear, +And, _Reason's self_ shall bow the knee + To shadows and delusions here. + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, September 22d, 1795._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I find from a perusal of the english papers, that fencibles are raising in +all parts of the country, and every precaution taking, to put the kingdom +in the best state of defence, in case of an invasion. I have for some +years thought a few regiments of riflemen would much contribute to this +desirable end. + +Some lessons I have received in the use of the rifle, from back woodsmen, +since my arrival in America, have confirmed me in this opinion. + +I know it will be objected, that the rifle is not a fair weapon. Perhaps +it is not.--I should be sorry to see it in general use in the european +armies: but surely it may be used to repel an invader, without any +infringement of the Law of Nations. + +What I would recommend to Government on this subject is, first, + + +OF FORMING THE CORPS. + +Beside the officers who have paid any attention to this method of fighting +during the last war in America, some of the most experienced back woodsmen +and indian chiefs should be sent for from Canada. + +Independent of the regiments on the ordinary establishment, I would +recommend one of _select men_, with better pay, &c., to be formed +from the other rifle corps; _merit_ being the only recommendation. + +Volunteer companies, in different parts of the country, might soon be +formed, composed of gentlemen, sportsmen, gamekeepers, &c. Proper persons +should make the circuit of the kingdom, to instruct them in some of the +most necessary particulars; such as loading, with the proper use of the +patch; to draw a level, making a just allowance for distance, &c. + + +OF RIFLES. + +I would by no means recommend _contract_ let proper encouragement be +given to gun-smiths, to supply rifles of the best construction, _loading +from the muzzle_.--Their being of an uniform length, or bore, is of no +consequence, as every man should cast and cut his own ball. + +The barrel, mounting, and lock, should be covered with a composition, to +render them as dull, and as little discernible, as possible. The locks +should always be in the very best firing order, and constructed to give +fire as easily as the nature of the service will admit. Oil, for the +inside of the rifle, should be regularly served; and the flints should be +of a much better quality than those used in muskets. + + +POWDER. + +Every thing depends upon this article's being of an uniform degree of +strength: it should be of the best quality, but not glazed. + + +ACCOUTREMENTS AND DRESS, + +Cannot be better than those used by the rifle corps in this country, +except perhaps that the latter should be of a dusky green, the colour died +in the Highlands of Scotland for plaids; even the cap should be of this +colour: a sort of helmet, constructed so as to afford a rest to fire from, +when lying on the belly. + + +EXERCISE, &c. + +It may perhaps be presumption in me to say any thing on this subject; but +I cannot help thinking it should be the _reverse_ of what is used in +the Line. They should be encamped as much as possible in a woody country, +as the art of _freeing_, as the back woodsmen call it, is one of +their best manoeuvres. Their whole time should be taken up in the +_real_ study of their profession, not in powdering, pipeclaying, +blacking, polishing, and such military fopperies. + +The rifle out of the question, I do not think _slow, deliberate firing_ +sufficiently attended to in the english army. Want of ammunition first +introduced it into this country at Bunker's Hill, and afterward at +Sullivan's Island. The carnage that ensued was a fatal proof of it's +efficacy. + +I have often thought, that the success of our navy was in a great measure +owing to _cool, deliberate firing_; and there is no doubt but that the +military fame of our ancestors was owing to their great superiority in +shooting the long bow; for the exercise of which, butts were erected in +every village in the kingdom.-- + +From + +Yours, &c + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia, February 12th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Were I to characterise the _United States_, it should be by the +appellation of the _land of speculation_. + +Such has been the rapid rise of every article of american produce, of +house-rent, and land (to say nothing of mercantile speculation, great part +of the carrying trade of Europe being now in the hands of the Americans), +that surely there never was a country where that passion was so universal, +or had such unbounded scope. + +The last great purchase of land from the Indians, on the confines of +Georgia, was at the rate of a cent per acre; one hundred acres for a +dollar! + +Before the american war, flour, was sold at _two_ dollars, per barrel; it +is now selling at _fourteen_. + +But perhaps the most tempting speculation is that of the _mines_. Our +friend, Parsons, who is here looked upon as an agent to some english +speculators, has lately received the enclosed, which I begged a copy of, +for your perusal but should first inform you, the cheapest fuel you can +burn in some parts of America, is english coal from Liverpool! + +Farewell. + + +COPY OF A LETTER TO B. PARSONS. + +"SIR, + +"The coal mine, of which you requested, me to give you a description, is +situate in the county of Hampshire, on a spur or arm of the Allegany +mountains. At the foot of this, within the distance of one mile, is the +river Patowmack, at the confluence of it's north branch with the Savage +river. To this point, the Patowmack Company, incorporated for this +purpose, intend to extend their navigation, and have already perfected it +within the distant of six or seven miles. The work is going forward, and I +believe will be completed next summer. This being perfected, there will be +a good navigation for large flat-bottomed boats, within one mile of the +coal-bank, to which a good road may be had on the side of the mountain. + +"This immense body of coal, which lies not above two or three feet under +the surface of the earth, was discovered by the falling of a tree, the +roots of which brought up some pieces of coal. It has been made use of for +some years by the neighbouring blacksmiths, who have made a perpendicular +opening, about ten feet on this side of the mountain. Intending to +purchase this property, I employed a man about two years ago to dig about +twelve feel lower down than the first opening, and found nothing but a +solid body of coal, of an excellent quality. I am inclined to think it +extends to the bottom of the mountain, and may be procured with so much +ease, that one hand, as I am assured, could deliver three hundred bushels +a day. + +"From the information I have received, there is a body of iron ore within +seven or eight miles of the coal-bank; and I expect a very advantageous +situation for water-works might be found at the confluence of the North +Branch and the Savage. Among the great objects contemplated by the +Patowmack Company in clearing the navigation of that extensive river, was +that of forming an easy communication between the eastern and western +waters, which you know are divided by the Allegany Mountains. The space +that separates them at present is about sixty miles; but when the +obstructions to the navigation down the Patowmack, which, passing through +an extensive and fertile country, leads to the seat[Footnote: The writer +means _intended_ seat of federal empire.] of federal empire; and +thence widening by degrees to the width of twelve miles, empties itself +into the bay of Chesapeak. + +"Should any of your friends in England incline to form an establishment +here, in the smaller branches of non manufactory, I should he glad to +treat with them on terms mutually beneficial. + +"Yours, &c." + + * * * * * + +_Philadelphia June 27th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +"In some part of the middle states, a climate similar to that of England +may easily be found." + +Inform our old acquaintance H----, that if he emigrates to America on the +strength of this assertion of Cooper, (on which, you tell me he so much +depends), he will, on his arrival, find himself egregiously mistaken. The +sameness of latitude does not always indicate similarity of temperature: +there are many other causes, which contribute to make this a very +different climate from that of Great Britain. + +The middle states of North America are hotter and colder _at intervals_, +not only than England, but than any part of the Old Continent, under the +same parallel of latitude. + +Jefferson says, "Our changes from heat to cold are sudden and great. The +mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer has been known to descend from 92 to +47, in thirteen hours." + +And I copied the following from a New York paper:-- + +"Wednesday, the 14th of May, the mercury in Fahrenheit rose to 91 degrees, +The Saturday night following, there was a severe frost. The next Tuesday +and Wednesday, the mercury rose to 85 degrees; from the 20th to the 26th, +it has been nearly stationary, varying only from 60 to 64.: Easterly wind, +and rain." + +These violent transitions from heat to cold, are produced by means of the +N.W. wind, which in this country is the most keen and severe of any that +is to be met with on the face of the globe. It is much the most prevalent +wind we have, and seldom fails to blow four or five days with great +uniformity. This wind is perfectly _dry_, and so uncommonly penetrating, +that I am convinced it would destroy all the plagues of Egypt in a very +short time. You may recollect, I informed you of the astonishing effect of +this powerful agent in stopping the yellow fever in a few hours, last +year, at Baltimore. + +Neither the prevalence, nor uncommon severity of this wind has been +properly accounted for; but we may now expect something more satisfactory +on this subject, from the celebrated Volney; who is here endeavouring to +investigate the causes of this, and other phenomena, relative to the winds +of this continent. + +Our heats in summer are sometimes very great; but the excess seldom +exceeds three days; the rotation is generally as follows; the first day +perhaps the mercury rises to 86, the next to 90, and the 3rd to 97, and +sometimes, though very rarely, to upward of 100 then comes a thunder gust, +which restores the air to it's usual summer temperature, till another +three days period of excessive heat begins and ends in the same manner, at +intervals, through the season. The succession of the degree of cold in +winter is exactly the same: I never knew the excess exceed three days; not +that we have then a thaw but that the weather is moderate, till another +excess commences of three days. + +On these occasions the mercury _sometimes_ descends to 10 or 12 degrees +below 0. Rivers a mile broad are frozen over in one night, and the bay of +Chesapeak traversed in waggons and sleighs! + +Though this climate, compared with that of England, is not in my opinion +on the whole so good, yet it possesses many advantages, such as the +clearness of the atmosphere, greater equality of the length of the days, +and _certainty_ of settled weather; for though the transitions are more +_violent_, they are by no means so _frequent_ as in England; where you +have the wind from every point of the compass, and experience all the +seasons of the year in twenty-four hours! + +Recollect these observations on the climate of America are confined to the +_middle states_, including Virginia in this description. Those of the +north, and south, are _somewhat_ different; but I am informed +the country to the S.W. of the Allegany Mountains is _materially +different_. The distance the N.W. wind has to travel to this country, +and the opposition it meets with from those mountains, in a great measure +meliorates and destroys those penetrating qualities, which make this wind +so formidable to the Atlantic States. I have heard so many extraordinary +accounts of the South-western territory, that I have long made up my mind +to visit that country: two _trifling_ reasons alone prevented me; +viz. want of _time_ and _money_; and from some disagreeable +intelligence I have lately received from _Wells_, instead of climbing +the _Allegany,_ I apprehend I shall soon be obliged to cross the +_Atlantic;_ in which case, I shall have the pleasure of returning you +thanks in person for your obliging attention to my order concerning +the........... which I received by the Peggy. + +At present I must content myself by assuring you of my being + +Your obliged friend, &c. + + +_Philadelphia, September 13th, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I write this in my way to Boston, where I am going to fulfil my engagement +with W----, the particulars of which I informed you of in a former letter. + +When I arrived at Newcastle, I had the mortification to find upwards of +one hundred irish passengers on board the packet. + +For some time before I left Baltimore, our papers were full of a shocking +transaction, which took place on board an irish passenger ship, containing +upwards of three hundred. It is said, that, owing to the cruel usage they +received from the captain, such as being put on a _very scanty_ allowance +of water[Footnote: By a law of the United States, the quantity of water +and provision every vessel is obliged to take (in proportion to the length +of the passage and persons on board) is clearly defined. A master of a +vessel violating this law forfeits five hundred dollars.] and provision, a +contagious disorder broke out on board, which carried off great numbers; +and, to add to their distress, when they arrived in the Delaware, they +were obliged to perform quarantine, which, for some days, was equally +fatal. + +The disorder was finally got under by the physicians belonging to the +Health Office. We had several of the survivors on board, who confirmed all +I had heard: indeed their emaciated appearance was a sufficient testimony +of what they had suffered. They assured me, the captain sold the ship's +water by the pint; and informed me of a number of shocking circumstances, +which I will not wound your feelings by relating. + +It is difficult to conceive how a multitude of witnesses can militate +_against_ a fact; but more so, how three hundred passengers could +tamely submit to such cruelties, from a bashaw of a captain. + +I am happy to inform you the Philadelphia Hibernian Society are determined +to prosecute this _flesh butcher_ for _murder_; As the manner of +carrying on this _trade_ in human flesh is not generally known in +England, I send you a few particulars of what is here emphatically called +a _white Guinea man_. There are vessels in the trade of Belfast, +Londonderry, Amsterdam, Hamburgh, &c., whose chief _cargoes_, on +their return to America, are passengers; great numbers of whom, on their +arrival, are _sold_ for a term of years to pay their passage; during +their servitude, they are liable to be _resold_, at the death or +caprice of their masters. Such advertisements as the following, are +frequent:-- + +"To be disposed of, the indentures of a strong, healthy, _irish woman_; +who has two years to serve, and is fit for all kind of house work.-- +Enquire of the printer." + + +"_Stop the villain!_ + +Ran away this morning, an irish servant, named Michael Day, by trade a +tailor, about five feet eight inches high, fair complexion, has a down +look when spoken to, light bushy hair, speaks much in the irish dialect, +&c.:--Whoever secures the above described, in any gaol, shall receive +thirty dollars reward, and all reasonable charges paid.--_N.B._. All +masters of vessels are forbid harbouring, or carrying off the said servant +at their peril." + +The laws respecting the _redemptioners_[Footnote: The name given to these +persons.] are very severe; they were formed for the english convicts +before the revolution. There are lately hibernian, and german societies, +who do all in their power, to mitigate the severity of these laws, and +render their countrymen, during their servitude, as comfortable as +possible. These societies are in all the large towns south of Connecticut. +In New England they are not wanting, as the _trade_ is there prohibited. +The difficulty of hiring a tolerable servant induces many to _deal_ in +this way. Our friend S---- lately bought an irish girl for three years, +and in a few days discovered he was likely to have a greater _increase of +his family_ than he bargained for; we had the laugh sadly against him on +this occasion; I sincerely believe the jew regrets his new purchase is not +a few shades darker. If he could prove her a _women of colour_, and +produce a bill of sale, he would make a slave of the child as well as the +mother! The emigration from Ireland has been this year very great; I +left a large _vessel_[Footnote: These vessels frequently belong to +Philadelphia, but land their passengers here, as there is a direct road to +the back parts of Pennsylvania.] full of passengers from thence at +Baltimore: I found _three_ at Newcastle: and there is _one_ in this city. +The number of passengers cannot be averaged at less than two hundred and +fifty to each vessel, all of whom have arrived within the last six weeks! + +While the yellow fever was raging in this city, in the year 1793, when few +vessels would venture nearer than Fort Miflin; a german captain in _this +trade_ arrived in the river, and hearing that such was the fatal nature of +the infection, that a sufficient number of nurses could not be procured to +attend the sick for any sum, conceived the philanthropic idea of supplying +this deficiency from his _redemption passengers!_ actuated by this _humane +motive_, he sailed boldly up to the city, and _advertised_[Footnote: I +have preserved this advertisement, and several others equally curious.] +his _cargo_ for sale:-- + +"A few _healthy_ servants, generally between seventeen and twenty-one +years of age; their times will be disposed of, by applying on board the +brig." + +Generous soul! thus nobly to sacrifice his _own countrymen, pro bono +publico_. I never heard this _honest_ german was _properly_ rewarded; but +virtue is it's own reward, and there is no doubt but the consciousness of +having performed _such_ an action is quite _sufficient_; at least, it +would be to + +Yours, &c., + + * * * * * + +_Boston, September 23rd, 1797._ + + +DEAR FRIEND, + +I set out for New York on the afternoon of the 16th. We had a pleasant +journey, over a rich and well cultivated tract of country, to Bristol. We +soon after crossed the Delaware, in a scow constructed to carry the stage +and horses over in a few minutes, without even taking the latter from the +carriage. We then entered the state of Jersey, and slept at Trenton, which +we left before sunrise the next morning; a circumstance I regretted, as I +wished to see the falls of the river Delaware in that neighbourhood, which +I am informed are worthy the attention of a traveller. + +Our journey across the Jerseys was pleasant; but the land is by no means +so rich as on the other side of the Delaware. Pennsylvania is, in my +opinion, justly called the Garden of America, at least of the United +States _East_ of the Allegany Mountains. We dined at New Brunswick, +where there is a wooden bridge, with stone piers, thrown over a broad and +rapid river. Our landlord informed us, several englishmen assured him, "It +was _very like_ Westminster Bridge." Though my conscience would not +permit me, _exactly_ to chime with my countrymen, it is but justice +to acknowledge, that when the infant state of the country is considered, +it is a work of equal magnitude, boldly designed, and neatly executed. + +About four in the afternoon, we embarked in a small vessel for New York, +which is situate on an island, in a bay, formed by the conflux of two +large rivers, the Hudson or North, and the East river. + +The city covers the south end of the island, and, as you approach it in +that direction from the Jersey shore, seems like Venice, gradually rising +from the sea. The evening was uncommonly pleasant; the sky perfectly clear +and serene, and the sun, in setting with all that vivid warmth of +colouring peculiar to southern latitudes, illuminated some of the most +beautiful scenery in nature, on the north river, and adjacent country. For +some minutes all my faculties were absorbed in admiration of the +surrounding objects! I never enjoyed a prospect more enchanting; but this +pleasure was of short continuance; I unfortunately cast my eyes towards +the city, and immediately recollected _two words_ I heard in the +Jerseys (yellow fever); at which the delusion vanished! + +_New York, Sept. 18th_.--My Jersey intelligence was too true; but the +disorder is chiefly confined to one part of the city, and is effectually +prevented from spreading at present by the N.W. wind, which is set in this +morning with uncommon severity; a circumstance which sometimes happens at +this season of the year, and is of long continuance. This kind of weather +the Indians call _half_ winter. Unfortunately for the Philadelphians, +they had no half winter in the year 1793.--I spent this day in surveying +the city, which, as well as the manners of the inhabitants, is more like +England than any other part of America. New York is a London in miniature, +populous streets, hum of business, busy faces, shops in style, &c. + +_Sept. 25th,_--I spent this day in viewing the city with increasing +admiration: It is certainly one of the first maritime situations in the +world. The extensive settlements on the banks of the Hudson, which +is navigable upwards of two hundred miles, amply supplies the city +with exports and provision. The inhabitants boast of having the best +fish-market in the United States; their own oyster-beds, and their +vicinity to the _New England states_, give them this advantage[Footnote: +There are fish on the coast of America which have certain boundaries, +beyond which they never go; salmon, for instance, is never found south of +a river in Connecticut; and certain southern fish never visit the New +England coast.].--The governor's house, new theatre, and tontine coffee +house, are magnificent buildings; the public walks well laid out, and +pleasantly situate. + +One advantage this city possesses peculiar to itself; you may be as much +in the country as you can desire for five farthings english money: the +fare is no more to Long Island, where you may be conveyed, from the heart +of the city, in a few minutes, and meet with as great a variety of hill +and dale, wood and water, as in any part of the world. This island is +ninety miles in length. + +_Sept. 19th_.--I intended proceeding to Boston, by the way of Rhode +Island, as I was informed the passage through _Hell Gates_[Footnote: +A dangerous strait, between stupendous rocks.] and the Sound is very +pleasant at this season; but the fear of being obliged to perform a +quarantine at my arrival prevented me. I set off this morning, in the +stage. Our course lay the whole length of the island, which is barren and +rocky; affording some romantic situations, in several of which I observed +(to use a cockney phrase) _snug little boxes_; these, I was informed, +belonged to the wealthy citizens; they commanded a view of the city, the +North River, the Sound, and adjacent islands. + +At noon we entered Connecticut, the most southerly of the New England +states. Slept at Fairfield. + +On the night of the 20th we reached Hertford, the capital of the state.-- +About five miles from it, a house was pointed out to me, where a very +shocking circumstance took place a few years ago.--A merchant, not being +able to bear a change in his circumstances from affluence to extreme +poverty, coolly and deliberately shot his wife and five children, and +afterward himself. He tried every means, for several days, to send his +wife away; but she preferred dying with him and the children. He left a +paper on the table, informing his friends, that his only motive for +committing this rash action was to rescue his family from a situation, +which he himself found insupportable. + +_Sept. 21st._--We this afternoon entered the state of Massachusetts. +I found New England very different from any part of America I had before +seen; the soil but very indifferent, rocky, and mountainous, interspersed +with some rich tracts of land in the valleys; the up lands are divided by +means of stone walls, as in Derbyshire, and some other parts of Great +Britain. + +They have few negroes, or european emigrants; so far from wanting the +latter, as in the South, they send great numbers every year to the new +settlements in the South-west. + +When we made any stay at a tavern on the road, I observed one of my +fellow travellers (who was very eloquent upon this subject) take every +opportunity of singing forth the praises of _New Virginia_[Footnote: A +rich tract of country, west of the Allegany Mountains.].--The north-west +wind continuing, the morning of the 22d was very cold; and we breakfasted +with a number of strangers. Our orator did not lose this opportunity of +holding forth on his favourite topic. I recollect the latter part of his +harangue was to the following effect:--_"There,"_ says he, (while the New +Englanders were staring with their _mouths open_,) "when I clear a fresh +lot of land on any of my plantations, I am obliged to plant it six or +seven years with hemp, or tobacco, before it is sufficiently _poor_ to +bear wheat! My indian corn grows twelve or thirteen feet high; I'll dig +four feet deep on my best land, and it shall then be sufficiently rich to +_manure_ your barren hills; and as to the climate, there is no comparison: +this cursed cold north-west wind loses all it's severity before it reaches +us; our winters are so mild, that our cattle requite no fodder, but range +the woods all winter; and our summers are more moderate than on your side +the Allegany; and as to----" Here the stage-driver put an end to his +oration, by informing us, all was ready to proceed on our journey. + +We must not be surprised, that numbers, who cultivate an ungrateful soil +in this cold climate, should be induced, by such descriptions as the +above, to emigrate to our orator's land of promise, I am informed ten +thousand persons emigrated from these states to Kentucky _alone_, in +one year. I have lately seen a flattering description of this country, +published in London: that the accounts are exaggerated, I have no doubt, +as it is said to be written by a speculator; deeply interested in the sale +of lands in the new settlements. I had a strong suspicion our fellow +traveller was of this description, and took every opportunity to +cross-examine him on this subject; he stuck true to his text, insisted +that all he advanced was literally true, but acknowledged he was going to +receive a sum of money for land he had sold to some emigrants from the +province of Main, and that he expected to sell a considerable tract before +his return. I arrived at Boston the 23d instant, four hundred and +seventy-four miles from Baltimore. + +Yours, &c. + +_P.S._ I find we are to have a most vigorous theatrical opposition. A sort +of dramatic mania has lately seiz'd the inhabitants. The _primitive_ +Bostonians would as soon have admitted the plague as a company of players; +but the present inhabitants having more liberal sentiments, a company of +comedians came to this town about four years ago, and ventured to exhibit +dramatic pieces, under the title of _Moral Lectures_. At length a bill +passed the General Assembly of Massachusetts to licence theatrical +performances; and as it is natural for mankind to run from one extreme to +another, they have this year _two_ theatres, both of which are attended +with a prodigious expence. Some of the performers are engaged at upwards +of 20_l_. english per week; and Mrs. Whitlocke (sister to Mrs. Siddons, +whom you may perhaps recollect at the Haymarket) is to have 180_l_. +sterling for six nights. This opposition will in all probability end in +the ruin of the managers, or rather of the _subscribers, who are bound for +the payments_. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, October 3d, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +The first leisure day after my arrival here, I went to Bunker's Hill, +attended by two persons, who were spectators of the engagement, and were +kind enough to point out and explain a number of particulars I wished to +be acquainted with, for the purpose of enabling me to form a tolerable +idea of this famous action. If general Howe meant only to give the +_Yankies_ a specimen of british valour, and his contempt of them and their +intrenchment, he succeeded in both.--His enemies on this side the water +say, "they gave him a _Rowland_ for his _Oliver_; _that_ he paid _too +dear_ for this victory; _that_ a more prudent general would have found a +better place to land the troops, and a safer mode of attack; _that_ the +_price_ he paid for this little redoubt ought to have convinced him, he +could not afford even to _bid_ for Dorchester heights, if once the +Americans got possession of those hills; _that_ he should therefore have +fortified them _himself_; _that_----" But as nothing is easier than to +see all these _thats_ when it is _too late_, I shall plague you with no +more of them, but conclude with an inscription from a monument on the +scene of action. + +Yours, &c. + + "ERECTED, 1794, +By King Solomon's Lodge of Free Masons, +[Footnote: General Warren was a brother.] + constituted at Charlestown, 1783, + In Memory of + MAJOR GENERAL JOSEPH WARREN, + AND HIS BRAVE ASSOCIATES, + Who were slain on this memorable spot, + June 17th, 1775. + + +None but they, who set a just value on the + blessings of LIBERTY, are worthy to enjoy + her. +In vain we toil'd, in vain we fought, +We bled in vain, if you, our offspring, +Want valour to repel the assaults of her + invaders." + + + CHARLES TOWN settled 1628. + ------------ burnt 1775. + ------------ rebuilt 1776. + +_P. S._ I was yesterday introduced to Cox, the celebrated +bridge-architect: he is famous for throwing a bridge over waters, where, +from the _depth_ or _strength_ of the current, this operation was thought +impracticable. He always constructs his bridges of wood, and endeavours to +give as little resistance to the water as possible: his supporters are +numerous, but slender; and there is an interval between each. He tells me +this idea first struck him from reading Aesop's fable of the Reed and the +Oak: the reed, by _yielding_, was unhurt by a tempest, which tore up the +sturdy oak by the roots. + +Cox served his apprenticeship to a carpenter; and it was late in life +before he attempted bridge-building. He proved his new theory on a +small bridge in the country, which answering beyond his most sanguine +expectations, he delivered proposals for connecting Boston to the +continent, at Charleston, by means of a draw-bridge. His plan was by some +supposed to proceed from a _distempered brain_. It is usual for the +_ignorant_ to call a projector _insane_, when his schemes exceed +the bounds of _their shallow comprehensions_. + +After some time, a subscription was raised; and, to the confusion of his +enemies, he erected a bridge 1500 feet long, by 42 wide, where there was, +at the _lowest ebb_, 28 feet of water, and the flow of the tide was +from 12 to 16 feet _more_. But what is the most surprising, this +bridge has stood the shock of prodigious bodies of ice, sometimes three or +four feet in thickness; which are, every thaw violently forced against it +with a powerful current. He was rewarded with the sum of two hundred +dollars above his contract. He then went to Ireland, where he built seven +bridges; the largest was at Londonderry, 1860 feet long, by 40 wide; the +depth of water 37 feet, and the flow of the tide from 14 to 18 feet more. +He compleated this bridge so much to the satisfaction of the gentlemen who +employed him, that he was presented with a gold medal and one hundred +pounds above his contract. + +He speaks feelingly, and with gratitude, of the many favours he received +during his residence in that kingdom. + +Farewell, yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, October 9th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Boston is situate in latitude 42 deg. 23 min. north, on a small peninsula, +at the bottom of Massachusetts Bay. It was built in the manner cities were +in England, at the time this settlement was formed; that is to say, with, +the gable end of the houses in front, the streets are narrow, ill paved, +and worse lighted. But recollect, I do not include the New Town, or West +Boston, in this description; which, as well as those houses that have +lately been erected in the Old Town, are in the modern style. + +The harbour is one of the best in the States; and, as a sea port, Boston +possesses advantages superiour to any I have seen in America: being too +far to the north to have any thing to fear from the worms (see a former +letter from Annapolis); and so near the ocean, that the navigation is +open, when the ports of Philadelphia, Baltimore, and others, three or four +degrees more to the south, are entirely frozen. + +Several of the public buildings are well worthy the attention of a +Traveller. + +The New State House will, when finished, add considerably to the beauty of +the town. It is building on Beacon Hill, and commands a very extensive +view of the bay of Massachusetts, and adjacent islands. + +The long wharf is a bold design; it runs 1743 feet in a right line into +the bay, where there is, at the lowest ebb, 17 feet of water. On this +wharf are upwards of eighty large stores, containing merchandize to a +great amount. I could never view these buildings without astonishment at +the infatuation of the proprietors: they are, without a single exception, +of _wood_, and the roofs covered with cedar shingles; were a fire to +commence at either extremity with a brisk wind in the same direction, the +whole must infallibly be consumed. + +The new[Footnote: The _old_ theatre has not been erected five years. Our +opposition rages with great violence. Much ink has already been shed. One +third of the public papers are crammed with what is called _Theatrical +Critique_; but is in fact either the barefaced puff direct in favour of +_one_ theatre, or a string of abusive epithets against the _other_, +equally void of truth and decency. + +The dispute has lately taken _political_ turn. It seems ours is the +_aristocratic_ theatre. The _democrats_ at the New Theatre are commanded +by the _Moral Lecture_ manager. _Mr. Powell informs his fellow-citizens, +that on Monday evening will be performed the tragedy of the Battle of +Bunker's Hill_.--The English in this town affect to laugh at the eagerness +with which the Bostonians swallow certain passages of this play. I laugh +too, but _justice_ obliges me to confess, that _John Bull_ can swallow a +fulsome clap trap as voraciously at any _Yankee_ of them all.] theatre is +a stupendous wooden building, that will contain one tenth of the +inhabitants of the whole town. + +The favourite promenade of the Bostonians, is the Mall, which has trees on +each side, as in St. James's Park, London. This walk commands some +beautiful prospects of the adjacent continent. + +Immediately opposite is the village and university of Cambridge. + +To open an immediate communication between Boston and the university, the +New Bridge was built on the plan of Mr. Cox during his absence in Ireland; +a great undertaking, including the causeways, which are covered in +the same manner as the water. This bridge is within a few feet of a +_mile_ in length, by means of which, the bridge at Charleston, and +the neck of the peninsula, our communication with the continent is so +complete, that we feel but few inconveniences from our insular situation. +--We have a plentiful supply of provision. Our fish-market is an excellent +one: the following species are larger than I remember seeing them in +Europe; viz. hallibut, cod, mackarel, smelts, and lobsters. The first is +often brought to market weighing two hundred pounds. Dr. Belknap, in his +History of New Hampshire, says, that when full grown, they often exceed +five hundred pounds weight. The cod are from seventy to eighty pounds. +Mackarel _often_ exceed four, and lobsters _sometimes_ thirty-five +pounds weight. I have preserved a claw of one of the latter, which +weighed thirty pounds: this I shall bring home with me, lest my friends +should think that, in this particular, I take too liberal an advantage of +the _traveller's privilege_, which I assure you I do not, when I +subscribe myself + +Your sincere friend. + + * * * * * + +_Boston, December 27th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +There is no calamity the bostonians so much, and justly dread, as +fire. Almost every part of the town exhibits melancholy proofs of the +devastation of that destructive element. This you will not wonder at, when +I inform you that three fourths of the houses are built with _wood_, +and covered with _shingles_, thin pieces of cedar, nearly in the +shape, and answering the end of tiles. We have no regular fire-men, or +rather mercenaries, as every master of a family belongs to a fire-company: +there are several in town, composed of every class of citizens, who have +entered into a contract to turn out with two buckets at the first fire +alarm, and assist to the utmost of their power in extinguishing the +flames, without fee or reward. + +I awoke this morning about two o'clock by the cry of fire, and the +jingling of all the church bells, which, with the rattling of the engines, +call for water, and other _et caetera_ of a bostonian fire-alarm, +form a concert truly horrible. + +As sleep was impossible under such circumstances, I immediately rose, and +found the town illuminated. When the alarm is given at night, the female +part of the family immediately place candles in the windows. This is of +great service in a town where there are few lamps. + +I found the fire had broken out in one of the narrow streets, and was +spreading fast on all sides. I was much pleased with the regularity +observed by these _amateur_ fire-men. Each engine had a double row, +extending to the nearest water; one row passed the full, and the other the +empty buckets. The citizens not employed at the engines were pulling down +the adjacent buildings, or endeavouring to save the furniture; their +behaviour was bold and intrepid. The wind blew fresh at N.W.; and nothing +but such uncommon exertions could possibly have saved the town, composed, +as it is, of such _combustible_ materials. You will naturally inquire, +whether they have no other. Yes, brick and stone in great plenty; but the +cheapness of a frame, or wooden building, is a great inducement for the +continuance of this dangerous practice: but there is one still greater, +viz. a strange idea, universal in America, that wooden houses are more +healthy, and less liable to generate or retain contagious infection than +those of brick or stone. This notion has been ably controverted by one of +their best _writers_[Footnote: Jefferson, vicepresident of the United +States.], but with little effect; and, like all other deep-rooted +prejudices, will not easily be eradicated. + +Your papers have, I suppose, informed you of a set of diabolical +incendiaries having set fire to Savannah, Charleston, Baltimore, and New +York. The villainy of these infernals is likely to be productive of some +good. The inhabitants of Charleston have agreed to prohibit the erection +of wooden buildings in that city. The philadelphians had before come to +this prudent resolution, within certain limits, I was present when this +matter was agitated. It was violently opposed by the democratic party; who +insisted, that in a _free_ country, a man has a right to build his +house of what materials he pleases. "True," said I, "of _stone_-brimstone +--use gun-powder for lime, and mix it with spirit of turpentine," +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + +_P.S._ I thank you for the _Apology_. It has been already twice answered +in this country, or rather, the bishop has been as often abused; first, by +a deist of New York, for speaking too _favourably_ of the Bible; and +secondly, by a hot-headed frantic of New England; who, in a work he calls +_The Bible needs no Apology_, rails at his lordship for the _opposite +reason_, and consigns him to eternal damnation, for _not_ insisting on +_every sentence_ of scripture being the _inspired_ word of God. + + +_Boston, January 7th, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +The states of Massachusetts and Connecticut were originally settled by +brownists, and other puritans, and were, for many years, an asylum for +dissenters of all denominations, who fled from persecution in Europe, to +exercise a still greater degree of intolerance themselves, when in power +in America. You have doubtless read or heard of the _Blue_ Laws of +Connecticut. Without insisting on the sanguinary code, said to be formerly +in force under this title, I shall briefly, and without connexion, +transcribe for you some extracts from Dr. Belknap, and others of their +_own_ writers on this subject; on the truth of which you may rely:-- + + +EXTRACTS. + +"Severe laws, conformable to the principles of the laws of Moses, were +enacted against all kinds of immorality. + +"Blasphemy, idolatry, unnatural lusts, rape, murder, adultery, +man-stealing, bearing false witness, rebellion against parents, were all +_equally_ made _capital_ crimes. The law against the latter was in these +words:--'If any child or children, above sixteen years of age, and of +sufficient understanding, shall curse or smite their natural father or +mother, he or they shall be _put to death. Exodus_ xxi, 17; _Lev._ x, 9.' + +"A law was passed to prohibit, under a severe penalty, the _smoking of +tobacco_, which was compared to the _smoke_ of the _bottomless pit_. +_Drinking_ of _healths_, and _wearing long hair_, were also forbidden, +under the same penalty: the first was considered as a heathenish and +idolatrous practice, grounded on the ancient libations. + +"Previous to putting the laws in execution against the latter, the +following proclamation was issued, and is now preserved among the records +at Havard College, Cambridge, near Boston:-- + +"Forasmuch as the wearing of long hair, after the manner of ruffians and +barbarous indians, has begun to invade New England, contrary to the rule +of God's word, _Corinthians_ xi, 14, which says it is a shame for a man to +wear long hair; as also the commendable custom generally of all the +_godly_ of our nation, until these few years; we, the magistrates who have +subscribed this paper, (for the showing of our own _innocency_ in this +behalf,) do declare and manifest our dislike and detestation against the +wearing of such long hair, as against a thing _uncivil_ and _unmanly_; +whereby men do deform themselves, and offend _sober_ and _modest_ men, and +do _corrupt good manners_. We do therefore, earnestly intreat all the +elders of this jurisdiction, as often as they shall see cause, to +_manifest their zeal_ against it in their public administrations, and to +take care that the _members_ of their respective churches be not _defiled +therewith_, that so, such as shall prove obstinate, and will not reform +themselves, may have God and man to witness against them. + +"The 3d month, 10th day, 1649. + +"_Jo. Endicott_, Governor. +_Tho. Dudley_, Dep. Governor +_Rich. Bellingham. +Rich. Salton Stall. +Increase Nowell. +William Hibbins. +Tho. Flint. +Rob. Bridges. +Simon Bradstreet_.' + +"Laws were made to regulate the intercourse between the sexes, and the +advances towards matrimony. They had a ceremony of betrothing, which +preceded that of marriage. _Pride_ and _levity_ came under the cognizance +of the magistrates. Not only the richness, but the mode of dress, and cut +of the hair, were subject to regulations. Women were forbidden to expose +their _arms_ or _bosoms_ to view. It was ordered, that their sleeves +should reach down to their _wrists_, and their gowns to be closed round +the _neck_. Women _offending_ against these laws were _presentable_ by the +_grand jury_. + +"The following were some of their favourite arguments in favour of +persecution. The celebrated Cotton, in a treatise published in 1647, +laboured to prove the lawfulness of the magistrate using the civil sword, +to extirpate _heretics_, from the command given to the jews, to put +to death _blasphemers_ and _idolaters!_ + +"After saying it was _toleration_, which made the world _antichristian_, +he concludes his work with this singular ejaculation:--'The Lord keep us +from being bewitched with the whore's cup, lest while we seem to reject +her with our profession, we bring her in by a _back door_ of _toleration_, +and so drink deeply of the cup of the Lord's wrath, and be filled with her +plagues!' + +"During a war with the eastern Indians, a council was called, and a +proposal made to draw upon them the _Mohawks_, their ancient enemy, though +then at peace: the lawfulness of this proceeding was doubted by some +_tender consciences_; but all their doubts vanished, when it was urged, +that _Abraham_ had entered into a confederacy with the _Amorites, among +whom he dwelt_, and made use of _their_ assistance in recovering his +kinsman _Lot_ from the hands of their _common enemy_." + + * * * * * + +"The quakers at first were banished; but this proving insufficient, a +succession of sanguinary laws were enacted against them; such as +imprisonment, whipping, cutting off the ears, boreing the tongue with a +red-hot iron, and banishment on pain of death. In consequence of these +laws, four quakers were put to death at Boston only; when their friends in +England procured an order from king Charles the Second, which put a stop +to _capital executions_." + +And now, friend Joseph, what do you think of these primitive christians? +When the _real_ Christian _William Penn_ arrived in America, what was _his +retaliation?_ He called his city _Philadelphia_, to perpetuate a memorial +of the cords of peace and good will, which bound him, and all his +followers, not only to one another, but even to his enemies at Boston, +were they inclined to come and settle with them.--The following words of +his proclamation ought to be written in letters of gold:-- + +"Because no people can be happy, if abridged of the freedom of their +consciences, as to their religious professions and worship; I do grant and +declare, that no person inhabiting this province, or territories, who +shall acknowledge one Almighty God, the Creator, Ruler, and Upholder of +the world, and live quietly under the civil government, shall in any case +be molested, or prejudiced in his person or estate because of his +conscientious persuasion or practice." + +But to return to New England; happily for these states, the revolution +has done away great part of the severity of their ancient laws; but +the inhabitants still retain a taste for scriptural phrases and allusions +in their writings. As you are fond of _poetry_, I send you two +specimens of this kind of writing; the first is from a tomb-stone at +_Plymouth_[Footnote: The oldest settlement north of Virginia.]. It was +written by one of the first settlers, and is in the true spirit of those +times.-- + + +EPITAPH UPON GENERAL ATHERTON. + +"Here lies our captain, and major, + Of Suffolk was withal, +A _godly_ magistrate was he, + And major general. +Two troops of horse came here, + (Such love his worth did crave;) +Ten companies of foot also, + Mourning, marched to his grave. +Let all that read be sure to keep + The _faith, as he has done_. +He lives now _crowned_ with _Christ_; + His name was Humphrey Atherton." + +In order to understand the second, I must inform you, it is usual for +boys, who expect christmas boxes, to present their masters' customers with +a copy of verses, expressive of their good wishes, &c. The call-boy of the +theatre, (a mechanic's son of this town,) had the following _verses_ +written in the usual style by the _poet_ commonly employed on these +occasions, and when printed, delivered one to each of the performers.-- + +"THE CALL-BOY OF THE THEATRE, +FEDERAL-STREET, +NEW YEAR'S WISH, 1797. + +"Look up, worthy friends, from yonder bright hills + See how Phoebus smiles, to hail the new year: +I bring you a tribute--rejoice thus to find, + So many are living, and meet with us here. + +"May health be confirm'd, and sickness remov'd; + May no sweeping flames take place in this state; +We sympathise deeply with neighbouring friends, + Whose cup has run over with this bitter fate. + +"May _teachers_ this day find _help from above_ + To publish glad news, as _heralds of grace_, +While _Zion_ is mourning her light shall break forth, + And shadows of midnight away from her chase. + +"I wish through this year _God's presence_ may smile + On all your just schemes at home or abroad; +I wish you his protection, by sea or by land; + May your _theatrical works_ find favour in _God_. +[Footnote: The boy must surely mean the _gods_.] + +"Gentlemen and ladies, accept these wishes sincere, + And I wish you all a happy new year." + +_Boston, January 1st, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +To answer your last, wherein you desire me to send you the exact state of +negro slavery in this country, is a task to which I am unequal. + +You will conceive the great difficulty of obliging you in this request, +when you are informed, that on this subject each individual state has it's +own laws. The only point in which they are unanimous, is to prohibit their +importation, either from the Coast of Africa, or the West Indies. I can +only inform you in general terms, that in the _southern states_ there +is little alteration in the negro code since the revolution; of course the +laws are nearly the same as in the British West India islands. In the +_middle states_, though negro slavery is allowed, their situation has +been considerably meliorated, by a variety of laws in their favour, some +tending to their gradual emancipation, others to render their servitude +less irksome, &c. + +Societies are formed in several of the large towns to enforce these +lenient laws, and to purchase the freedom of a few of the most deserving +slaves. The quakers, beside liberating all their negroes, have contributed +liberally towards the funds these societies have established, for carrying +their benevolent intentions into effect. In consequence of these measures, +there are a number of free negroes in Philadelphia, whose situation is +very comfortable. A handsome episcopalian church has been built for their +use, and one of the most respectable negroes ordained, who performs all +the duties of his office with great solemnity and fervour of devotion, +assisted occasionally by his white brethren; and there are also two +schools, where the children of people of colour are educated gratis; one +supported by the quakers, the other by the abolition society. + +Negro slavery, under any modification or form, is prohibited in this state +(Massachusetts,) also in New Hampshire, the province of Maine, and, _I +believe_, in all the _New England states_. + +As to your other queries respecting the negroes, I send you my sentiments, +infinitely better expressed by Jefferson, notwithstanding all that Imlay, +Wilberforce, and other authors, have written against his assertion, viz., +that "Negroes are _inferiour_ to the whites, both in the endowments of +_body_ and _mind_." I am clearly and decidedly of his opinion. A strict +attention to this subject, during three years residence in these states, +has convinced me of the truth of every tittle of the following extract +from his Virginia, which I enclose for your perusal, and am, most +sincerely, + +Yours, &c. + +"The first difference that strikes us is colour. Whether the black of the +negro reside in the reticular membrane, between the skin and scarf skin, +or in the scarf skin itself; whether it proceed from the colour of the +blood, the colour of the bile, or from that of some other secretion, the +difference is fixed in nature, and is as real as if it's seat and cause +were better known to us. And is this difference of no importance? Is it +not the foundation of a greater or less share of beauty in the two races? +Are not the fine mixtures of red and white, the expression of every +passion by a greater or less suffusion of colour in the one, preferable to +that eternal monotony, that immovable veil of black, which covers all the +emotions of the other race? Add to these, flowing hair, a more elegant +symmetry of form, their own judgment in favour of the whites, declared by +their preference to them, as uniformly as is the preference of the +oroonowtang for the black women over those of his own species? The +circumstance of superiour beauty is thought worthy attention in the +propagation of our horses, dogs, and other domestic animals; why not in +that of man? + +"Beside those of colour, figure, and hair, there are other physical +distinctions, proving a difference of race. They have less hair on the +face and body. They secrete less by the kidneys, and more by the glands of +the skin; which gives them a very strong and disagreeable odour. This +greater degree of transpiration renders them more tolerant of heat, and +less so of cold, than the whites. Perhaps a difference of structure in the +pulmonary aparatus, which a late ingenious experimentalist, (Crawford) has +discovered to be the principal regulator of animal heat, may have disabled +them from extricating, in the act of inspiration, so much of that fluid +from the outer air; or obliged them, in expiration, to part with more of +it. + +"They seem to require less sleep. A black, after hard labour through the +day, will be induced by the slightest amusement, to sit up till midnight, +or later, though knowing he must be out with the dawn of the morning. They +are at least as brave, and more adventurous; but this may proceed from +want of forethought, which prevents their seeing a danger till it be +present; when present, they do not go through it with more coolness and +steadiness than the whites. They are more ardent after the female; but +love seems with them more an eager desire, than a tender delicate mixture +of sentiment and sensation. Their griefs are transient. Those numberless +afflictions which render it doubtful, whether Heaven has given life to us +more in mercy, or in wrath, are less felt and sooner forgotten with them. +In general, their existence appears to participate more of sensation than +reflection. To this must be ascribed their disposition to sleep, when +abstracted from their diversions, or unemployed in labour. An animal, +whose body is at rest, and who does not reflect, must be disposed to sleep +of course. Comparing them by their faculties of memory, reason, and +imagination, it appears to me that in memory, they are equal to the +whites; in reason much inferiour. As I think one could scarcely be found +capable of tracing, and comprehending the investigations of Euclid; and +that in imagination they are dull, tasteless, and anomalous. It would be +unfair to follow them to Africa for this investigation. We will consider +them here, on the same stage with the whites. And where the facts are not +apocryphal on which a judgment is to be formed, it will be right to make +allowances for the difference of condition, of conversation, and of the +sphere in which they move. Many millions of them have been brought to, and +born in America. Most of them indeed have been confined to tillage, to +their own homes, and their own society; yet many have been so situate, +that they might have availed themselves of the conversation of their +masters; many have been brought up to the handicraft arts, and from that +circumstance have always been associated with the whites; some have been +liberally educated, and all have lived in countries where the arts and +sciences are cultivated to a considerable degree, and have had before +their eyes samples of the best work from abroad. The Indians with no +advantages of this kind, will often carve figures on their pipes, not +destitute of merit and design. They will crayon out an animal, a plant, or +a country, so as to prove the existence of a germe in their minds, which +only wants cultivation. They astonish you with strokes of the most +sublime oratory, such as prove their reason and sentiment strong, their +imagination glowing and elevated; but never yet could I find a black, that +had uttered a thought above the level of plain narration[Footnote: "Sleep +hab no massa," was the answer of a sleepy negro, who was told that his +massa called him.--See Edward's History of Jamaica, 2d Vol.]; never see +even an elementary trait of painting, or sculpture. In music they are more +generally gifted than the whites with accurate ears for tune, and time; +and they have been found capable of imagining a small catch[Footnote: "The +instrument proper to them is the _banjore_, which they brought here +from Africa, and which is the origin of the guitar, it's chords being +precisely the four lower chords of that instrument." J---- N.]. Whether +they will be equal to the composition of a more extensive run of melody, +or of complicated harmony[Footnote: From this circumstance, I conceive our +author's _catch_ was improperly so called.], is yet to be proved. +Misery is often the parent of the most affecting touches in poetry. Among +the blacks is misery enough, God knows, but no poetry. Love is the +peculiar oestrum of the poet: their love is ardent; but it kindles the +senses only, not the imagination. Religion, or rather fanaticism, +has produced a _Phyllis Wheatly_; but it could not produce a poet. +Ignatius Sancho has approached nearer to merit in composition; yet his +letters do more credit to the heart than the head; supposing them to have +been genuine, and to have received amendment from no other hand; points +which would not be easy of investigation. The improvement of the blacks in +body and mind, in the first instance of their mixture with the whites, has +been observed by every one, and proves their inferiority is not the effect +merely of their condition in life. + +"The white slaves, among the Romans, were often their rarest artists; they +excelled too in science, insomuch as to be usually employed as tutors to +their masters' children. Epictetus, Terence, and Phoedrus, were slaves. +Whether further observation will, or will not, verify the conjecture, that +Nature has been less bountiful to them, in the endowments of the head, I +believe in those of the heart she will be found to have done them justice. +That disposition to theft, with which they have been branded, must be +ascribed to their situation, and not to any depravity of the moral sense. +The man, in whose favour no laws of property exist, probably feels himself +less bound to respect those made in favour of others. When arguing for +ourselves, we lay it down as a fundamental, that laws, to be just, must +give a reciprocation of right; that without this, they are mere arbitrary +rules of conduct, founded in force, and not in conscience. And it is a +problem which I give the master to solve, whether the religious precepts +against the violation of property, were not formed for _him_, as well +as his slave, and whether the slave may not as justifiably take a little +from one who has taken _all_ from him, as he would slay one that +would slay him? + +"That a change in the relation in which a man is placed should change his +ideas of moral right and wrong, is neither new, nor confined to the +blacks; Homer tells us, it was so 2600 years ago:--'Jove fixed it certain, +that whatever day makes a man a slave, takes half his worth away.' But the +slaves Homer speaks of were whites. + +"But to return to the blacks. Notwithstanding this consideration, which +must weaken their respect for the laws of property, we find among them +numerous instances of the most rigid integrity; and as many as among their +better instructed masters, of benevolence, gratitude, and unshaken +fidelity. + +"The opinion that they are inferiour in the faculties of reason and +imagination, must be hazarded with great diffidence. To justify a general +conclusion requires many observations, even where the subject may be +submitted to the anatomical knife, to optical glasses, to analysis by fire +or solvents: how much more, then, when it is a faculty, not a substance, +we are examining; where it eludes the research of all the senses; where +the conditions of it's existence are various, and variously combined; +where the effects of those which are present or absent bid defiance to +calculation; let me add too, in a circumstance where our conclusions would +degrade a whole race of men from the rank in the scale of beings, which +their Creator may perhaps have given them! To our reproach it must be +said, though for a century and a half we have had under our eyes the races +of black and red men, they have never yet been viewed by us as subjects of +natural history. I advance it therefore as a suspicion only, that the +blacks[Footnote: Where Jefferson makes use of the word _Black_, in +this extract, it is rigidly confined to the _Negroes_ originally from +the coast of Africa, or their descendants.], whether originally a distinct +race, or made so by time and circumstances, are inferiour to the whites in +the endowments both of body and mind." + + * * * * * + +_Boston, December 29th, 1796._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Upon my arrival here, I had once more the mortification to find myself in +the neighbourhood of the yellow fever, which had lately been imported. The +uncommon, early, and severe north-west winds entirely prevented it from +spreading; a fortunate circumstance for the inhabitants of Boston, as, +from the narrowness of their streets, great population, and other +circumstances, it must have been very fatal, had it not been by this means +destroyed. + +In order to give you the most regular account of this disorder I could +procure, I must repeat several circumstances from former letters. + +The yellow fever, which has lately been so fatal, is a _new disorder_, +first brought to the West Indies, in a slave-ship from the coast of +Africa, late in the year 1792. It spread rapidly from island to island, +and in July, 1793, was first imported to the continent in a french +schooner to Philadelphia. The physicians of that city, naturally +concluding it was the usual yellow fever of the West Indies, applied the +common remedies in that case: viz., bark, and other astringents. In nine +cases out of ten, death was the inevitable consequence to all who took +these medicines. The disease was equally fatal to the faculty. A universal +despondency took place, till doctor Rush, suspecting this was a new +disorder, applied an opposite method of cure, by mercurial medicines, and +copious bleedings; which, when administered in the first or second stage +of the disorder, had the desired effect. + +I send you an extract from the doctor's pamphlet, wherein he explains his +motives for adopting this method of cure, &c. + +Speaking of the effect of the lancet, he says, "It was at this time my old +master reminded me of Dr. Sydenham's remark, that _moderate_ bleeding +did harm in the plague, where _copious_ bleeding was indicated, and +that, in the cure of that disorder, we should leave Nature wholly to +herself, or take the cure altogether out of her hands." + +The truth of this observation was obvious:--By taking away as much blood +as restored the blood-vessels to a morbid degree of action, without +reducing this action afterward, pain, congestion, and inflammation, were +greatly increased; all of which were prevented, or occurred in a less +degree, when the system rose gradually from the state of depression which +had been induced by indirect debility. Under the influence of the facts +and reasonings which have been mentioned, I bore the same testimony in +acute cases against what was called _moderate_ bleeding, that I did +against bark, wine, and laudanum, in this fever.--I drew from many persons +seventy or eighty ounces of blood in five days. + + * * * * * + +After the cold weather had completely destroyed this disorder, it did not +appear again in the United States till the next year, when it was imported +to Baltimore and New Haven; a distance from each other of more than five +hundred miles. The cold weather again destroyed it, till carried, in 1795, +to Charleston and New York, equally distant from each other; and this +summer it was imported to Charleston, New York, Boston, and Newbery Port; +a distance of one thousand five hundred miles along the coast; but +fortunately the early N.W. winds destroyed it in all these places before +it had made any considerable progress. + +A quarantine upon vessels from the infected islands would effectually +prevent the importation of this plague; but if performed in the _literal +sense of the word_, it would materially hurt the West India trade of +the Americans. + +You have little to fear from this disorder being brought to England; +experience has clearly proved, this fever cannot exist in a _cold_ +climate; but was it to be imported to the south of Europe, the +consequences would be dreadful indeed. I before told you, the negroes were +not afflicted with the yellow fever, though universally employed as nurses +to the sick. + +A disease that will affect but _one_ species of men is not new. About the +year 1652, a very dreadful and uncommon plague ravaged this part of +America, and actually extirpated several nations of the Indians, without, +in a single instance, affecting the _white_ emigrants, though continually +among them. This strange circumstance the fanatics of New England +accounted for in their usual way, as appears from several of their +sermons, still preserved:-- + +"It was a just judgment of God upon these heathenish and idolatrous +nations; the Lord took this method of destroying them, that he might make +the more room for his _chosen people_." A _philosopher_ would perhaps +demand a better reason. Apropos of philosophers--An american writer has +been endeavouring to investigate the age of the world, from the _Falls of +Niagara!_ According to _his_ calculation (which, by the by, is not a +little curious) it is _36960_ years since the first rain fell upon the +face of the earth! + +Yours, &c. + + +_Boston, December 19th, 1796._ + +DEAR SIR, + +I before hinted to you, that the Americans pay very little attention to +their fisheries. + +Exclusive of the shad fishery, which is only two months in the year, there +is not _one_ individual, either in the city of Philadelphia, or it's +vicinity, who procures a livelihood by catching fish in the Delaware, +though that river abounds with sturgeon, perch, cat-fish, eels, and a vast +variety of others, which would meet with a sure sale in the Philadelphia +markets: but this is a trifle to their neglect of the greatest fishery in +the universe; for such certainly is that on the banks of Newfoundland. + +The Americans now being at peace with most of the piratical states +of Barbary, will find an excellent market for their fish in the +Mediterranean. This circumstance may induce congress to pay some attention +to the hints thrown out by Dr. Belknap, in his Account of the American +Newfoundland Fishery, which I transcribe for you perusal:-- + +"The cod-fishery is either carried on by boats or schooners. The boats in +the winter season go out in the morning, and return at night. In the +spring they do not return till they are filled. The schooners make three +trips to the banks of Newfoundland in a season; the first, or spring +cargo, are large, thick fish, which, after being properly salted and +dried, are kept alternately above and under ground, till they become so +mellow as to be denominated _dumb fish_. These, when boiled, are red, +and of an excellent quality; they are chiefly consumed in these states. +The fish caught in the other two trips, during the summer and fall, are +white, thin, and less firm; these are exported to Europe and the West +Indies; they are divided into two sorts; one called merchantable, and the +other Jamaica fish. + +"The places where the cod-fishery is chiefly carried on, are the Isle of +Shoals, Newcastle, Rye, and Hampton. The boats employed in this fishery +are of that light and swift kind called whale-boats; they are rowed either +with two or four oars, and steered with another; and being equally sharp +at each end, move with the utmost celerity on the surface of the ocean. +The schooners are from twenty to fifty tons, carry six or seven men, and +one or two boys. When they make a tolerable voyage, they bring over five +or six hundred quintals of fish, salted and stowed in bulk. At their +arrival, the fish is rinced in salt water, and spread on hurdles composed +of brush-wood, and raised on stakes three or four feet from the ground. +They are kept carefully preserved from the rain: they should not be wet +from the time they are first spread on the hurdle till they are boiled for +the table. + +"This fishery has not of late years been prosecuted with the same spirit +it was fifty or sixty years ago, when the shores were covered with +fish-flakes, and seven or eight ships were annually loaded for Spain or +Portugal, beside what was carried to the West Indies. Afterward they found +it more convenient to cure the fish at Corscaw, which was nearer to the +banks. It was continued there to great advantage till 1744, when it was +broken up by the french war. After the peace it revived, but not in so +great a degree as before. Fish was frequently cured in the summer on the +eastern shores and islands, and in the spring and fall at home. + +"Previously to the late revolution the greater part of remittances were +made to Europe by the fishery; but it has not yet recovered from the shock +which it received by the war with Britain: it is however in the power of +the Americans to make more advantage of the cod-fishery perhaps than, any +of the european nations. We can fit out vessels at less expense, and by +reason of the westerly winds, which prevail on our coasts in February and +March, can go to the banks earlier in the season than the Europeans, and +take the best fish. We can dry it in a clearer air than the foggy shores +of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. We can supply every necessary from among +ourselves; vessels, spars, sails, cordage, anchors, lines, hooks, and +provision. Salt can be imported from abroad cheaper than it can be made at +home, if it be not too much loaded with duties. Men can always be had to +go on shares, which is by far the most profitable way, both to the +employer and fisherman. The fishing banks are an inexhaustible source of +wealth; and the fishing business is a most excellent nursery for seamen; +it therefore deserves every encouragement and indulgence from an +enlightened and rational legislature." + + +_Boston, March 4th, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +Being very busy in making preparation for my voyage to England, I have not +leisure to write you a long epistle, but enclose you one I sent to an +american friend in the south.--Farewell. + +This will most likely be the last letter you will receive from me on this +side of the Atlantic. The French have already taken two hundred sail of +american vessels. I hope my next may not be dated from _Brest_. + + + +_To Mr.--------,_ + +_State of--------._ + +DEAR SIR, + +In consequence of my promise at parting, I sit down to give you some +account of _Yankee Land_. You were perfectly right in telling me I +should find the New England states very different from your part of +America. + +The first object that would strike you is the population of the country. +In one day's journey through Connecticut, I saw as many towns, villages, +and houses, as I ever remember seeing, when travelling the same distance +in England; a prospect you _Buck-skins_ can have no idea of. + +The next is the beauty of the women, (I beg their pardon; that would be +the _first_ object that would strike _you!_) Their great superiority in +that respect may be accounted for, from their being of _engllsh_ descent. +Your women have not all that _advantage_, ('True english prejudice this!' +methinks I hear you mutter): great part are of _dutch_, or _german_ +descent. The close iron stoves they have introduced among you are terrible +enemies to beauty. Why you so obstinately persist in a custom so +prejudicial to health, I cannot imagine. Your plea, that the coldness of +the climate makes them indispensable, I can-not admit of; you know, that +we are here three degrees to the north of you, and that the present is the +coldest winter since the year 1780-81; and yet I have not seen a close +stove since I left New York. The tavern bills in these states are +near one hundred per cent under yours. The exorbitant charges of your +tavern-keepers are a disgrace to the country: I could never account for +your submitting so quietly to their impositions. + +Whether it be owing to the abolition of negro slavery, and the sale of +irish, and german redemptioners, (which, by the by, is nearly as bad, and +ought not to be tolerated in a free country,) or to the great population, +or to the produce of the land being of less value than in the south: I say +whether it be owing to any, or to all of these causes, I know not; but +certain it is, a greater strain of industry runs through all ranks of +people than with you; and it is equally certain, that the lower order of +citizens receive a better education, and of course are more intelligent, +and better informed. This you will not wonder at, when I tell you there +are seven free schools in Boston, containing about nine hundred scholars, +and that in the country schools are in a still greater proportion. They +are maintained by a tax on every class of citizens, therefore education +may be claimed by _all_ as a _right_. + +This climate is much colder, compared with yours, than I can account for +geographically; but it may perhaps be owing to our having a greater +proportion of easterly winds, which, coming immediately from the banks of +Newfoundland, are attended with a cloudy sky, and thick atmosphere. These +may tend to mitigate the heats of summer, but are very disagreeable in the +other seasons. The coldness of the climate is plainly to be perceived in +the birch tree, which is here common in the woods; and the _want_ of +the mocking bird, the red bird, and a great variety of others, that visit +you in the glimmer from South America. The fox squirrel too is scarce, and +the gray squirrel almost white. We cannot cultivate the sweet, or tropical +potatoe, but import it from Carolina. Even the peach is late, small, and +acid. The coldness of the climate, and the fanaticism of the inhabitants, +make the New England states by no means such desirable places of +residence, as those of the south, to + +Yours, &c. + + * * * * * + +_Dover, April 22nd, 1797._ + +DEAR FRIEND, + +On the 12th of March I embarked in the Betsy, captain Hart, for London; my +live stock consisted of some fowls, four brace of partridges, a flying +squirrel, and a young racoon. We sailed about midnight, with a good breeze +at S.W., and were in a few hours clear of the land. + +On the evening of the 13th, we met with a hard gale at N. E. by N.--The +degree of cold was intolerable. We shipped some heavy seas, and our +rigging being intirely incrusted with ice, our captain was resolved to +stand to the south, in search of better weather. The next morning being on +the edge of the gulf stream, we were witness to a strange struggle between +the warmth of the current, and the coldness of the surrounding ocean and +atmosphere: the stream actually smoaked like a caldron! We ran as far to +the south as latitude 38, when the wind shifting to the S. W., in a few +hours we found a wonderful change of climate: the degree of heat was, at +least, equal to that of a usual summer day in England, without the +disagreeable pressure experienced from a thick atmosphere. The air was +perfectly clear, elastic, and animating, nothing could be more charming; +but this was of short continuance; the next morning the wind shifted to +the N. E., and blew a _gale_, which lasted eighteen hours. We had +then a calm, which was succeeded by westerly winds, + +On the 27th, we had run down half our longitude, four degrees of which we +sailed in the last twenty four hours. + +On the 29th, we met with another very severe gale at E.N.E., which soon +obliged us to strike our top-gallant-yards, and lie too, under our mizen +and mizen stay sail. During the confusion of the night, my racoon got +loose, and found means to kill all my partridges! and, as misfortunes +seldom come alone; a large spanish cat we had on board, caught my flying +squirrel. The loss of my partridges was the more provoking, as they were +in perfect health, and I had no doubt of landing them safe: so ends my +project of propagating the breed of these birds in England. + +In a former letter, wherein I gave you my motives for making this attempt, +I mentioned their extreme hardiness; of this I had now additional proofs: +these birds were in a coop on the deck, and I expected every sea we +shipped over our quarter during the first gale, they certainly would be +drowned; but was agreeably surprised, when the gale was over, to find them +very little the worse for their severe ducking. + +_April 14th._--For the last eight days we have been beating against +an easterly wind, a few leagues to the westward of the chops of the +channel, subject to continual alarms from french cruisers, of all +situations the most disagreeable. This evening we had soundings at 80 +fathom, and a favourable change of the wind to the westward. + +On the 15th we saw an american-built ship standing athwart us, by her +course and appearance evidently a french prize, bound to Brest. She had +her anchors over her bows, and most likely had been but a few days from +some port in St. George's Channel. About five hours after we were boarded +by the Spitfire, british sloop of war; we informed the lieutenant of the +exact course of the prize, and he immediately gave chace. + +The next day we made the Bill of Portland. Our passage up the channel was +very pleasant, till within six leagues of Dover, when we once more +encountered a violent easterly gale, which, for the fifth time, reduced us +to our courses. Night coming on, and not being able to procure a pilot, we +were a little uneasy. The gale abating the next day, a pilot came on +board. He had the conscience to demand three guineas to put me on shore! +but took one third of the sum, which I think he deserved, as we were six +hours making this harbour. I found the custom house officers, and their +myrmidon porters, exactly as Smollet has described them; two of these +_gentlemen_ had the impudence to charge me half a guinea for bringing +my trunk seventy yards.--So ends my tour. I am once more landed in Old +England, after an absence of three years and nine months, with a plentiful +lack of money and _some_ experience!-- + +Farewell. + +Yours, &c. + + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in the United States of America +by William Priest + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES *** + +***** This file should be named 11545.txt or 11545.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/5/4/11545/ + +Produced by John R. 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