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Bayard Taylor + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .75em; margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-align: justify; font-size: 80%; font-style: italic;} + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + .xx-small {font-size: 60%;} + .x-small {font-size: 75%;} + .small {font-size: 85%;} + .large {font-size: 115%;} + .x-large {font-size: 130%;} + .indent5 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent10 { margin-left: 10%;} + .indent15 { margin-left: 15%;} + .indent20 { margin-left: 20%;} + .indent25 { margin-left: 25%;} + .indent30 { margin-left: 30%;} + .indent35 { margin-left: 35%;} + .indent40 { margin-left: 40%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; right: 1%; font-size: 0.6em; + font-variant: normal; font-style: normal; + text-align: right; background-color: #FFFACD; + border: 1px solid; padding: 0.3em;text-indent: 0em;} + .side { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 15%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + .head { float: left; font-size: 90%; width: 98%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0} + span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 0.8 } + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11535 ***</div> + + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + VIEWS A-FOOT; + </h1> + <h4> + OR + </h4> + <h2> + EUROPE SEEN WITH KNAPSACK AND STAFF. + </h2> + <h2> + By J. Bayard Taylor. + </h2> + <h2> + </h2> + <h3> + WITH A PREFACE BY N.P. WILLIS. + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Jog on, jog on, the foot-path way, + And merrily hent the stile-a; + A merry heart goes all the day, + Your sad tires in a mile-a." + + <i>Winter's Tale</i>. +</pre> + <h3> + IN TWO PARTS. + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="linkpart1" id="linkpart1"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PART I. + </h2> + <h5> + Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by + </h5> + <h5> + WILEY AND PUTNAM, + </h5> + <h5> + in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the + Southern District of New York. + </h5> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PREFACE. + </h2> + <h3> + BY N.P. WILLIS. + </h3> + <p> + The book which follows, requires little or no introduction. It tells its + own story, and tells it well. The interest in it, which induces the writer + of this preface to be its usher to the public, is simply that of his + having chanced to be among the first appreciators of the author's talent—an + appreciation that has since been so more than justified, that the writer + is proud to call the author of this book his friend, and bespeak attention + to the peculiar energies he has displayed in travel and authorship. Mr. + Taylor's poetical productions while he was still a printer's apprentice, + made a strong impression on the writer's mind, and he gave them their due + of praise accordingly in the newspaper of which he was then Editor. Some + correspondence ensued, and other fine pieces of writing strengthened the + admiration thus awakened, and when the young poet-mechanic came to the + city, and modestly announced the bold determination of visiting foreign + lands—with means, if they could be got, but with reliance on manual + labor if they could not—the writer, understanding the man, and + seeing how capable he was of carrying out his manly and enthusiastic + scheme, and that it would work uncorruptingly for the improvement of his + mind and character, counselled him to go. He went—his book tells how + successfully for all his purposes. He has returned, after two years' + absence, with large knowledge of the world, of men and of manners, with a + pure, invigorated and healthy mind, having passed all this time abroad, + and seen and accomplished more than most travelers, <i>at the cost of only + $500, and this sum earned on the road</i>. This, in the writer's opinion, + is a fine instance of character and energy. The book, which records the + difficulties and struggles of a printer's apprentice achieving this, must + be interesting to Americans. The pride of the country is in its self-made + men. + </p> + <p> + What Mr. Taylor is, or what he is yet to become, cannot well be touched + upon here, but that it will yet be written, and on a bright page, is, of + course, his own confident hope and the writer's confident expectation. The + book, which is the record of his progress thus far, is now cordially + commended to the public, and it will be read, perhaps, more + understandingly after a perusal of the following outline sketch of the + difficulties the author had to contend with—a letter written in + reply to a note from the writer asking for some of the particulars of his + start and progress: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <i>To. Mr. Willis</i>,— + + MY DEAR SIR:— + + Nearly three years ago (in the beginning of 1844) the time for + accomplishing my long cherished desire of visiting Europe, seemed to + arrive. A cousin, who had long intended going abroad, was to leave + in a few months, and although I was then surrounded by the most + unfavorable circumstances, I determined to accompany him, at + whatever hazard. I had still two years of my apprenticeship to serve + out; I was entirely without means, and my project was strongly + opposed by my friends, as something too visionary to be + practicable. A short time before, Mr. Griswold advised me to + publish a small volume of youthful effusions, a few of which had + appeared in Graham's Magazine, which he then edited; the idea struck + me, that by so doing, I might, if they should be favorably noticed, + obtain a newspaper correspondence which would enable me to make the + start. + + The volume was published; a sufficient number was sold among my + friends to defray all expenses, and it was charitably noticed by the + Philadelphia press. Some literary friends, to whom I confided my + design, promised to aid me with their influence. Trusting to this, I + made arrangements for leaving the printing-office, which I succeeded + in doing, by making a certain compensation for the remainder of my + time. I was now fully confident of success, feeling satisfied, that + a strong will would always make itself a way. After many + applications to different editors and as many disappointments, I + finally succeeded, about two weeks before our departure, in making a + partial engagement. Mr. Chandler of the United States Gazette and + Mr. Patterson of the Saturday Evening Post, paid me fifty dollars, + each, in advance for twelve letters, to be sent from Europe, with + the probability of accepting more, if these should be + satisfactory. This, with a sum which I received from Mr. Graham for + poems published in his Magazine, put me in possession of about a + hundred and forty dollars, with which I determined to start, + trusting to future remuneration for letters, or if that should fail, + to my skill as a compositor, for I supposed I could at the worst, + work my way through Europe, like the German hand werker. Thus, with + another companion, we left home, an enthusiastic and hopeful trio. + + I need not trace our wanderings at length. After eight months of + suspense, during which time my small means were entirely exhausted, + I received a letter from Mr. Patterson, continuing the engagement + for the remainder of my stay, with a remittance of one hundred + dollars from himself and Mr. Graham. Other remittances, received + from time to time, enabled me to stay abroad two years, during which + I traveled on foot upwards of three thousand miles in Germany, + Switzerland, Italy and France. I was obliged, however, to use the + strictest economy—to live on pilgrim fare, and do penance in rain + and cold. My means several times entirely failed; but I was always + relieved from serious difficulty through unlooked-for friends, or + some unexpected turn of fortune. At Rome, owing to the expenses and + embarrassments of traveling in Italy, I was obliged to give up my + original design of proceeding on foot to Naples and across the + peninsula to Otranto, sailing thence to Corfu and making a + pedestrian journey through Albania and Greece. But the main object + of my pilgrimage is accomplished; I visited the principal places of + interest in Europe, enjoyed her grandest scenery and the marvels of + ancient and modern art, became familiar with other languages, other + customs and other institutions, and returned home, after two years' + absence, willing now, with satisfied curiosity, to resume life in + America. + + Yours, most sincerely, + + J. BAYARD TAYLOR. +</pre> + <hr /> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> VIEWS A-FOOT. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#linkpart1"> <b>PART 1.</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. — THE VOYAGE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. — A DAY IN IRELAND. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. — BEN LOMOND AND THE HIGHLAND + LAKES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. — THE BURNS FESTIVAL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. — WALK FROM EDINBURG OVER THE + BORDER AND ARRIVAL AT LONDON. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. — SOME OF THE "SIGHTS" OF + LONDON. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. — FLIGHT THROUGH BELGIUM. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. — THE RHINE TO HEIDELBERG. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. — SCENES IN AND AROUND + HEIDELBERG. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. — A WALK THROUGH THE ODENWALD. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. — SCENES IN FRANKFORT—AN + AMERICAN COMPOSER—THE POET FREILIGRATH. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. — A WEEK AMONG THE STUDENTS. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. — CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN + GERMANY. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. — WINTER IN FRANKFORT—A + FAIR, AN INUNDATION AND A FIRE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. — THE DEAD AND THE DEAF—MENDELSSOHN + THE COMPOSER. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#linkpart2"> <b>PART 2.</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. — JOURNEY ON FOOT FROM + FRANKFORT TO CASSEL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. — ADVENTURES AMONG THE HARTZ. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. — NOTES IN LEIPSIC AND + DRESDEN. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. — RAMBLES IN THE SAXON + SWITZERLAND. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. — SCENES IN PRAGUE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. — JOURNEY THROUGH EASTERN + BOHEMIA AND MORAVIA TO THE DANUBE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. — VIENNA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. — UP THE DANUBE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. — THE UNKNOWN STUDENT. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXV. — THE AUSTRIAN ALPS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI. — MUNICH. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII. — THROUGH WURTEMBERG TO + HEIDELBERG. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII. — FREIBURG AND THE BLACK + FOREST. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXIX. — PEOPLE AND PLACES IN + EASTERN SWITZERLAND. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXX. — PASSAGE OF THE ST. GOTHARD + AND DESCENT INTO ITALY. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXXI. — MILAN. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0032"> CHAPTER XXXII. — WALK FROM MILAN TO GENOA. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0033"> CHAPTER XXXIII. — SCENES IN GENOA, LEGHORN + AND PISA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0034"> CHAPTER XXXIV. — FLORENCE AND ITS + GALLERIES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0035"> CHAPTER XXXV. — A PILGRIMAGE TO + VALLOMBROSA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0036"> CHAPTER XXXVI. — WALK TO SIENA AND + PRATOLINO—INCIDENTS IN FLORENCE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0037"> CHAPTER XXXVII. — AMERICAN ART IN FLORENCE. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0038"> CHAPTER XXXVIII. — AN ADVENTURE ON THE + GREAT ST. BERNARD—WALKS AROUND FLORENCE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0039"> CHAPTER XXXIX. — WINTER TRAVELING AMONG THE + APPENINES. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0040"> CHAPTER XL. — ROME </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0041"> CHAPTER XLI. — TIVOLI AND THE ROMAN + CAMPAGNA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0042"> CHAPTER XLII. — </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0043"> CHAPTER XLIII. — PILGRIMAGE TO VAUCLUSE AND + JOURNEY UP THE RHONE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0044"> CHAPTER XLIV. — TRAVELING IN BURGUNDY—THE + MISERIES OF A COUNTRY DILIGENCE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0045"> CHAPTER XLV. — POETICAL SCENES IN PARIS. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0046"> CHAPTER XLVI. — A GLIMPSE OF NORMANDY. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0047"> CHAPTER XLVII. — LOCKHART, BERNARD BARTON + AND CROLY—LONDON CHIMES AND GREENWICH FAIR. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0048"> CHAPTER XLVIII. — HOMEWARD BOUND——CONCLUSION. + </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + TO + </h2> + <h3> + FRANK TAYLOR, + </h3> + <h3> + THESE RECORDS OF THE PILGRIMAGE, + </h3> + <h3> + WHOSE TOILS AND ENJOYMENTS WE HAVE SHARED TOGETHER, + </h3> + <h3> + ARE + </h3> + <h3> + AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED, + </h3> + <h3> + BY + </h3> + <h3> + HIS RELATIVE AND FRIEND. + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + VIEWS A-FOOT. + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. — THE VOYAGE. + </h2> + <p> + An enthusiastic desire of visiting the Old World haunted me from early + childhood. I cherished a presentiment, amounting almost to belief, that I + should one day behold the scenes, among which my fancy had so long + wandered. The want of means was for a time a serious check to my + anticipations; but I could not content myself to wait until I had slowly + accumulated so large a sum as tourists usually spend on their travels. It + seemed to me that a more humble method of seeing the world would place + within the power of almost every one, what has hitherto been deemed the + privilege of the wealthy few. Such a journey, too, offered advantages for + becoming acquainted with people as well as places—for observing more + intimately, the effect of government and education, and more than all, for + the study of human nature, in every condition of life. At length I became + possessed of a small sum, to be earned by letters descriptive of things + abroad, and on the 1st of July, 1844, set sail for Liverpool, with a + relative and friend, whose circumstances were somewhat similar to mine. + How far the success of the experiment and the object of our long + pilgrimage were attained, these pages will show. + </p> + <hr /> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + LAND AND SEA. + + There are springs that rise in the greenwood's heart, + Where its leafy glooms are cast, + And the branches droop in the solemn air, + Unstirred by the sweeping blast. + There are hills that lie in the noontide calm, + On the lap of the quiet earth; + And, crown'd with gold by the ripened grain, + Surround my place of birth. + + Dearer are these to my pining heart, + Than the beauty of the deep, + When the moonlight falls in a bolt of gold + On the waves that heave in sleep. + The rustling talk of the clustered leaves + That shade a well-known door, + Is sweeter far than the booming sound + Of the breaking wave before. + + When night on the ocean sinks calmly down, + I climb the vessel's prow, + Where the foam-wreath glows with its phosphor light, + Like a crown on a sea-nymph's brow. + Above, through the lattice of rope and spar, + The stars in their beauty burn; + And the spirit longs to ride their beams, + And back to the loved return. + + They say that the sunset is brighter far + When it sinks behind the sea; + That the stars shine out with a softer fire— + Not thus they seem to me. + Dearer the flush of the crimson west + Through trees that my childhood knew. + When the star of love with its silver lamp, + Lights the homes of the tried and true! +</pre> + <p> + Could one live on the sense of beauty alone, exempt from the necessity of + "creature comforts," a sea-voyage would be delightful. To the landsman + there is sublimity in the wild and ever-varied forms of the ocean; they + fill his mind with living images of a glory he had only dreamed of before. + But we would have been willing to forego all this and get back the + comforts of the shore. At New York we took passage in the second cabin of + the Oxford, which, as usual in the Liverpool packets, consisted of a small + space amid-ships, fitted up with rough, temporary berths. The + communication with the deck is by an open hatchway, which in storms is + closed down. As the passengers in this cabin furnish their own provisions, + we made ourselves acquainted with the contents of certain storehouses on + Pine St. wharf, and purchased a large box of provisions, which was stowed + away under our narrow berth. The cook, for a small compensation, took on + himself the charge of preparing them, and we made ourselves as comfortable + as the close, dark dwelling would admit. + </p> + <p> + As we approached the Banks of Newfoundland, a gale arose, which for two + days and nights carried us on, careering Mazeppa-like, up hill and down. + The sea looked truly magnificent, although the sailors told us it was + nothing at all in comparison with the storms of winter. But we were not + permitted to pass the Banks, without experiencing one of the calms, for + which that neighborhood is noted. For three days we lay almost motionless + on the glassy water, sometimes surrounded by large flocks of sea-gulls. + The weed brought by the gulf stream, floated around—some branches we + fished up, were full of beautiful little shells. Once a large school of + black-fish came around the vessel, and the carpenter climbed down on the + fore-chains, with a harpoon to strike one. Scarcely had he taken his + position, when they all darted off in a straight line, through the water, + and were soon out of sight. He said they smelt the harpoon. + </p> + <p> + We congratulated ourselves on having reached the Banks in seven days, as + it is considered the longest third-part of the passage. But the hopes of + reaching Liverpool in twenty days, were soon overthrown. A succession of + southerly winds drove the vessel as far north as lat. 55 deg., without + bringing us much nearer our destination. It was extremely cold, for we + were but five degrees south of the latitude of Greenland, and the long + northern twilights came on. The last glow of the evening twilight had + scarcely faded, before the first glimmering of dawn appeared. I found it + extremely easy to read, at 10 P.M., on the deck. + </p> + <p> + We had much diversion on board from a company of Iowa Indians, under the + celebrated chief "White Cloud," who are on a visit to England. They are + truly a wild enough looking company, and helped not a little to relieve + the tedium of the passage. The chief was a very grave and dignified + person, but some of the braves were merry enough. One day we had a + war-dance on deck, which was a most ludicrous scene. The chief and two + braves sat upon the deck, beating violently a small drum and howling forth + their war-song, while the others in full dress, painted in a grotesque + style, leaped about, brandishing tomahawks and spears, and terminating + each dance with a terrific yell. Some of the men are very fine-looking, + but the squaws are all ugly. They occupied part of the second cabin, + separated only by a board partition from our room. This proximity was any + thing but agreeable. They kept us awake more than half the night, by + singing and howling in the most dolorous manner, with the accompaniment of + slapping their hands violently on their bare breasts. We tried an + opposition, and a young German student, who was returning home after two + years' travel in America, made our room ring with the chorus from Der + Freischütz—but in vain. They <i>would</i> howl and beat their + breasts, and the pappoose <i>would</i> squall. Any loss of temper is + therefore not to be wondered at, when I state that I could scarcely turn + in my berth, much less stretch myself out; my cramped limbs alone drove + off half the night's slumber. + </p> + <p> + It was a pleasure, at least, to gaze on their strong athletic frames. + Their massive chests and powerful limbs put to shame our dwindled + proportions. One old man, in particular, who seemed the patriarch of the + band, used to stand for hours on the quarter deck, sublime and motionless + as a statue of Jupiter. An interesting incident occurred during the calm + of which I spoke. They began to be fearful we were doomed to remain there + forever, unless the spirits were invoked for a favorable wind. Accordingly + the prophet lit his pipe and smoked with great deliberation, muttering all + the while in a low voice. Then, having obtained a bottle of beer from the + captain, he poured it solemnly over the stern of the vessel into the sea. + There were some indications of wind at the time, and accordingly the next + morning we had a fine breeze, which the Iowas attributed solely to the + Prophet's incantation and Eolus' love of beer. + </p> + <p> + After a succession of calms and adverse winds, on the 25th we were off the + Hebrides, and though not within sight of land, the southern winds came to + us strongly freighted with the "meadow freshness" of the Irish bogs, so we + could at least <i>smell</i> it. That day the wind became more favorable, + and the next morning we were all roused out of our berths by sunrise, at + the long wished-for cry of "land!" Just under the golden flood of light + that streamed through the morning clouds, lay afar-off and indistinct the + crags of an island, with the top of a light-house visible at one + extremity. To the south of it, and barely distinguishable, so completely + was it blended in hue with the veiling cloud, loomed up a lofty mountain. + I shall never forget the sight! As we drew nearer, the dim and soft + outline it first wore, was broken into a range of crags, with lofty + precipices jutting out to the sea, and sloping off inland. The white wall + of the light-house shone in the morning's light, and the foam of the + breakers dashed up at the foot of the airy cliffs. It was worth all the + troubles of a long voyage, to feel the glorious excitement which this + herald of new scenes and new adventures created. The light-house was on + Tory Island, on the north-western coast of Ireland. The Captain decided on + taking the North Channel, for, although rarely done, it was in our case + nearer, and is certainly more interesting than the usual route. + </p> + <p> + We passed the Island of Ennistrahul, near the entrance of Londonderry + harbor, and at sunset saw in the distance the islands of Islay and Jura, + off the Scottish coast. Next morning we were close to the promontory of + Fairhead, a bold, precipitous headland, like some of the Palisades on the + Hudson; the highlands of the Mull of Cantire were on the opposite side of + the Channel, and the wind being ahead, we tacked from shore to shore, + running so near the Irish coast, that we could see the little thatched + huts, stacks of peat, and even rows of potatoes in the fields. It was a + panorama: the view extended for miles inland, and the fields of different + colored grain were spread out before us, a brilliant mosaic. Towards + evening we passed Ailsa Crag, the sea-bird's home, within sight, though + about twenty miles distant. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, the 28th, we passed the lofty headland of the Mull of Galloway + and entered the Irish Sea. Here there was an occurrence of an impressive + nature. A woman, belonging to the steerage, who had been ill the whole + passage, died the morning before. She appeared to be of a very avaricious + disposition, though this might indeed have been the result of self-denial, + practised through filial affection. In the morning she was speechless, and + while they were endeavoring to persuade her to give up her keys to the + captain, died. In her pocket were found two parcels, containing forty + sovereigns, sewed up with the most miserly care. It was ascertained she + had a widowed mother in the north of Ireland, and judging her money could + be better applied than to paying for a funeral on shore, the captain gave + orders for committing the body to the waves. It rained drearily as her + corpse, covered with starred bunting, was held at the gangway while the + captain read the funeral service; then one plunge was heard, and a white + object, flashed up through the dark waters, as the ship passed on. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we passed the Isle of Man, having a beautiful view of the + Calf, with a white stream tumbling down the rocks into the sea; and at + night saw the sun set behind the mountains of Wales. About midnight, the + pilot came on board, and soon after sunrise I saw the distant spires of + Liverpool. The Welsh coast was studded with windmills, all in motion, and + the harbor spotted with buoys, bells and floating lights. How delightful + it was to behold the green trees on the banks of the Mersey, and to know + that in a few hours we should be on land! About 11 o'clock we came to + anchor in the channel of the Mersey, near the docks, and after much noise, + bustle and confusion, were transferred, with our baggage, to a small + steamboat, giving a parting cheer to the Iowas, who remained on board. On + landing, I stood a moment to observe the scene. The baggage-wagons, drawn + by horses, mules and donkeys, were extraordinary; men were going about + crying "<i>the celebrated Tralorum gingerbread!</i>" which they carried in + baskets; and a boy in the University dress, with long blue gown and yellow + knee-breeches, was running to the wharf to look at the Indians. + </p> + <p> + At last the carts were all loaded, the word was given to start, and then, + what a scene ensued! Away went the mules, the horses and the donkeys; away + ran men and women and children, carrying chairs and trunks, and boxes and + bedding. The wind was blowing, and the dust whirled up as they dashed + helter-skelter through the gate and started off on a hot race, down the + dock to the depot. Two wagons came together, one of which was overturned, + scattering the broken boxes of a Scotch family over the pavement; but + while the poor woman was crying over her loss, the tide swept on, scarcely + taking time to glance at the mishap. + </p> + <p> + Our luggage was "passed" with little trouble; the officer merely opening + the trunks and pressing his hands on the top. Even some American reprints + of English works which my companion carried, and feared would be taken + from him, were passed over without a word. I was agreeably surprised at + this, as from the accounts of some travellers, I had been led to fear + horrible things of custom-houses. This over, we took a stroll about the + city. I was first struck by seeing so many people walking in the middle of + the streets, and so many gentlemen going about with pinks stuck in their + button-holes. Then, the houses being all built of brown granite or dark + brick, gives the town a sombre appearance, which the sunshine (when there + is any) cannot dispel. Of Liverpool we saw little. Before the twilight had + wholly faded, we were again tossing on the rough waves of the Irish Sea. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. — A DAY IN IRELAND. + </h2> + <p> + On calling at the steamboat office in Liverpool, to take passage to Port + Rush, we found that the fare in the fore cabin was but two shillings and a + half, while in the chief cabin it was six times as much. As I had started + to make the tour of all Europe with a sum little higher than is sometimes + given for the mere passage to and fro, there was no alternative—the + twenty-four hours' discomfort could be more easily endured than the + expense, and as I expected to encounter many hardships, it was best to + make a beginning. I had crossed the ocean with tolerable comfort for + twenty-four dollars, and was determined to try whether England, where I + had been told it was almost impossible to breathe without expense, might + not also be seen by one of limited means. + </p> + <p> + The fore <i>cabin</i> was merely a bare room, with a bench along one side, + which was occupied by half a dozen Irishmen in knee-breeches and heavy + brogans. As we passed out of the Clarence Dock at 10 P.M., I went below + and managed to get a seat on one end of the bench, where I spent the night + in sleepless misery. The Irish bestowed themselves about the floor as they + best could, for there was no light, and very soon the Morphean deepness of + their breathing gave token of blissful unconsciousness. + </p> + <p> + The next morning was misty and rainy, but I preferred walking the deck and + drying myself occasionally beside the chimney, to sitting in the dismal + room below. We passed the Isle of Man, and through the whole forenoon were + tossed about very disagreeably in the North Channel. In the afternoon we + stopped at Larne, a little antiquated village, not far from Belfast, at + the head of a crooked arm of the sea. There is an old ivy-grown tower + near, and high green mountains rise up around. After leaving it, we had a + beautiful panoramic view of the northern coast. Many of the precipices are + of the same formation as the Causeway; Fairhead, a promontory of this + kind, is grand in the extreme. The perpendicular face of fluted rock is + about three hundred feet in height, and towering up sublimely from the + water, seemed almost to overhang our heads. + </p> + <p> + My companion compared it to Niagara Falls petrified; and I think the + simile very striking. It is like a cataract falling in huge waves, in some + places leaping out from a projecting rock, in others descending in an + unbroken sheet. + </p> + <p> + We passed the Giant's Causeway after dark, and about eleven o'clock + reached the harbor of Port Rush, where, after stumbling up a strange old + street, in the dark, we found a little inn, and soon forgot the Irish + Coast and everything else. + </p> + <p> + In the morning when we arose it was raining, with little prospect of fair + weather, but having expected nothing better, we set out on foot for the + Causeway. The rain, however, soon came down in torrents, and we were + obliged to take shelter in a cabin by the road-side. The whole house + consisted of one room, with bare walls and roof, and earthen floor, while + a window of three or four panes supplied the light. A fire of peat was + burning on the hearth, and their breakfast, of potatoes alone, stood on + the table. The occupants received us with rude but genuine hospitality, + giving us the only seats in the room to sit upon; except a rickety + bedstead that stood in one corner and a small table, there was no other + furniture in the house. The man appeared rather intelligent, and although + he complained of the hardness of their lot, had no sympathy with O'Connell + or the Repeal movement. + </p> + <p> + We left this miserable hut, as soon as it ceased raining—and, though + there were many cabins along the road, few were better than this. At + length, after passing the walls of an old church, in the midst of older + tombs, we saw the roofless towers of Dunluce Castle, on the sea-shore. It + stands on an isolated rook, rising perpendicularly two hundred feet above + the sea, and connected with the cliffs of the mainland by a narrow arch of + masonry. On the summit of the cliffs were the remains of the buildings + where the ancient lords kept their vassals. An old man, who takes care of + it for Lord Antrim, on whose property it is situated, showed us the way + down to the castle. We walked across the narrow arch, entered the ruined + hall, and looked down on the roaring sea below. It still rained, the wind + swept furiously through the decaying arches of the banqueting hall and + waved the long grass on the desolate battlements. Far below, the sea + foamed white on the breakers and sent up an unceasing boom. It was the + most mournful and desolate picture I ever beheld. There were some low + dungeons yet entire, and rude stairways, where, by stooping down, I could + ascend nearly to the top of one of the towers, and look out on the wild + scenery of the coast. + </p> + <p> + Going back, I found a way down the cliff, to the mouth of a cavern in the + rock, which extends under the whole castle to the sea. Sliding down a heap + of sand and stones, I stood under an arch eighty feet high; in front the + breakers dashed into the entrance, flinging the spray half-way to the + roof, while the sound rang up through the arches like thunder. It seemed + to me the haunt of the old Norsemen's sea-gods! + </p> + <p> + We left the road near Dunluce and walked along the smooth beach to the + cliffs that surround the Causeway. Here we obtained a guide, and descended + to one of the caves which can be entered from the shore. Opposite the + entrance a bare rock called Sea Gull Isle, rises out of the sea like a + church steeple. The roof at first was low, but we shortly came to a branch + that opened on the sea, where the arch was forty-six feet in height. The + breakers dashed far into the cave, and flocks of sea-birds circled round + its mouth. The sound of a gun was like a deafening peal of thunder, + crashing from arch to arch till it rolled out of the cavern. + </p> + <p> + On the top of the hill a splendid hotel is erected for visitors to the + Causeway; after passing this we descended to the base of the cliffs, which + are here upwards of four hundred feet high, and soon began to find, in the + columnar formation of the rocks, indications of our approach. The guide + pointed out some columns which appeared to have been melted and run + together, from which Sir Humphrey Davy attributed the formation of the + Causeway to the action of fire. Near this is the Giant's Well, a spring of + the purest water, the bottom formed by three perfect hexagons, and the + sides of regular columns. One of us observing that no giant had ever drunk + from it, the old man answered—"Perhaps not: but it was made by a + giant—God Almighty!" + </p> + <p> + From the well, the Causeway commences—a mass of columns, from + triangular to octagonal, lying in compact forms, and extending into the + sea. I was somewhat disappointed at first, having supposed the Causeway to + be of great height, but I found the Giant's Loom, which is the highest + part of it, to be but about fifty feet from the water. The singular + appearance of the columns and the many strange forms which they assume, + render it nevertheless, an object of the greatest interest. Walking out on + the rocks we came to the Ladies' Chair, the seat, back, sides and + footstool, being all regularly formed by the broken columns. The guide + said that any lady who would take three drinks from the Giant's Well, then + sit in this chair and think of any gentleman for whom she had a + preference, would be married before a twelvemonth. I asked him if it would + answer as well for gentlemen, for by a wonderful coincidence we had each + drank three times at the well! He said it would, and thought he was + confirming his statement. + </p> + <p> + A cluster of columns about half-way up the cliff is called the Giant's + Organ—from its very striking resemblance to that instrument, and a + single rock, worn by the waves into the shape of a rude seat, is his + chair. A mile or two further along the coast, two cliffs project from the + range, leaving a vast semicircular space between, which, from its + resemblance to the old Roman theatres, was appropriated for that purpose + by the Giant. Halfway down the crags are two or three pinnacles of rock, + called the Chimneys, and the stumps of several others can be seen, which, + it is said, were shot off by a vessel belonging to the Spanish Armada, in + mistake for the towers of Dunluce Castle. The vessel was afterwards + wrecked in the bay below, which has ever since been called Spanish Bay, + and in calm weather the wreck may be still seen. Many of the columns of + the Causeway have been carried off and sold as pillars for mantels—and + though a notice is put up threatening any one with the rigor of the law, + depredations are occasionally made. + </p> + <p> + Returning, we left the road at Dunluce, and took a path which led along + the summit of the cliffs. The twilight was gathering, and the wind blew + with perfect fury, which, combined with the black and stormy sky, gave the + coast an air of extreme wildness. All at once, as we followed the winding + path, the crags appeared to open before us, disclosing a yawning chasm, + down which a large stream, falling in an unbroken sheet, was lost in the + gloom below. Witnessed in a calm day, there may perhaps be nothing + striking about it, but coming upon us at once, through the gloom of + twilight, with the sea thundering below and a scowling sky above, it was + absolutely startling. + </p> + <p> + The path at last wound, with many a steep and slippery bend, down the + almost perpendicular crags, to the shore, at the foot of a giant isolated + rock, having a natural arch through it, eighty feet in height. We followed + the narrow strip of beach, having the bare crags on one side and a line of + foaming breakers on the other. It soon grew dark; a furious storm came up + and swept like a hurricane along the shore. I then understood what Horne + means by "the lengthening javelins of the blast," for every drop seemed to + strike with the force of an arrow, and our clothes were soon pierced in + every part. + </p> + <p> + Then we went up among the sand hills, and lost each other in the darkness, + when, after stumbling about among the gullies for half an hour, shouting + for my companions, I found the road and heard my call answered; but it + happened to be two Irishmen, who came up and said—"And is it another + gintleman ye're callin' for? we heard some one cryin', and didn't know but + somebody might be kilt." + </p> + <p> + Finally, about eleven o'clock we all arrived at the inn, dripping with + rain, and before a warm fire concluded the adventures of our day in + Ireland. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. — BEN LOMOND AND THE HIGHLAND LAKES. + </h2> + <p> + The steamboat Londonderry called the next day at Port Rush, and we left in + her for Greenock. We ran down the Irish coast, past Dunluce Castle and the + Causeway; the Giant's organ was very plainly visible, and the winds were + strong enough to have sounded a storm-song upon it. Farther on we had a + distant view of Carrick-a-Rede, a precipitous rock, separated by a yawning + chasm from the shore, frequented by the catchers of sea-birds. A narrow + swinging bridge, which is only passable in calm weather, crosses this + chasm, 200 feet above the water. + </p> + <p> + The deck of the steamer was crowded with Irish, and certainly gave no very + favorable impression of the condition of the peasantry of Ireland. On many + of their countenances there was scarcely a mark of intelligence—they + were a most brutalized and degraded company of beings. Many of them were + in a beastly state of intoxication, which, from the contents of some of + their pockets, was not likely to decrease. As evening drew on, two or + three began singing and the others collected in groups around them. One of + them who sang with great spirit, was loudly applauded, and poured forth + song after song, of the most rude and unrefined character. + </p> + <p> + We took a deck passage for three shillings, in preference to paying twenty + for the cabin, and having secured a vacant place near the chimney, kept it + during the whole passage. The waves were as rough in the Channel as I ever + saw them in the Atlantic, and our boat was tossed about like a plaything. + By keeping still we escaped sickness, but we could not avoid the sight of + the miserable beings who filled the deck. Many of them spoke in the Irish + tongue, and our German friend (the student whom I have already mentioned) + noticed in many of the words a resemblance to his mother tongue. I + procured a bowl of soup from the steward, but as I was not able to eat it, + I gave it to an old man whose hungry look and wistful eyes convinced me it + would not be lost on him. He swallowed it with ravenous avidity, together + with a crust of bread, which was all I had to give him, and seemed for the + time as happy and cheerful as if all his earthly wants were satisfied. + </p> + <p> + We passed by the foot of Goat Fell, a lofty mountain on the island of + Arran, and sped on through the darkness past the hills of Bute, till we + entered the Clyde. We arrived at Greenock at one o'clock at night, and + walking at random through its silent streets, met a policeman, whom we + asked to show us where we might find lodgings. He took my cousin and + myself to the house of a poor widow, who had a spare bed which she let to + strangers, and then conducted our comrade and the German to another + lodging-place. + </p> + <p> + An Irish strolling musician, who was on board the Dumbarton boat, + commenced playing soon after we left Greenock, and, to my surprise, struck + at once into "Hail Columbia." Then he gave "the Exile of Erin," with the + most touching sweetness; and I noticed that always after playing any air + that was desired of him, he would invariably return to the sad lament, + which I never heard executed with more feeling. It might have been the + mild, soft air of the morning, or some peculiar mood of mind that + influenced me, but I have been far less affected by music which would be + considered immeasurably superior to his. I had been thinking of America, + and going up to the old man, I quietly bade him play "Home." It thrilled + with a painful delight that almost brought tears to my eyes. My companion + started as the sweet melody arose, and turned towards me, his face + kindling with emotion. + </p> + <p> + Dumbarton Rock rose higher and higher as we went up the Clyde, and before + we arrived at the town I hailed the dim outline of Ben Lomond, rising far + off among the highlands. The town is at the head of a small inlet, a short + distance from the rock, which was once surrounded by water. We went + immediately to the Castle. The rock is nearly 500 feet high, and from its + position and great strength as a fortress, has been called the Gibraltar + of Scotland. The top is surrounded with battlements, and the armory and + barracks stand in a cleft between the two peaks. We passed down a green + lane, around the rock, and entered the castle on the south side. A soldier + conducted us through a narrow cleft, overhung with crags, to the summit. + Here, from the remains of a round building, called Wallace's Tower, from + its having been used as a look-out station by that chieftain, we had a + beautiful view of the whole of Leven Vale to Loch Lomond, Ben Lomond and + the Highlands, and on the other hand, the Clyde and the Isle of Bute. In + the soft and still balminess of the morning, it was a lovely picture. In + the armory, I lifted the sword of Wallace, a two-handed weapon, five feet + in length. We were also shown a Lochaber battle-axe, from Bannockburn, and + several ancient claymores. + </p> + <p> + We lingered long upon the summit before we forsook the stern fortress for + the sweet vale spread out before us. It was indeed a glorious walk, from + Dumbarton to Loch Lomond, through this enchanting valley. The air was mild + and clear; a few light clouds occasionally crossing the sun, chequered the + hills with sun and shade. I have as yet seen nothing that in pastoral + beauty can compare with its glassy winding stream, its mossy old woods, + and guarding hills—and the ivy-grown, castellated towers embosomed + in its forests, or standing on the banks of the Leven—the purest of + rivers. At a little village called Renton, is a monument to Smollett, but + the inhabitants seem to neglect his memory, as one of the tablets on the + pedestal is broken and half fallen away. Further up the vale a farmer + showed us an old mansion in the midst of a group of trees on the bank of + the Leven, which he said belonged to Smollett—or Roderick Random, as + he called him. Two or three old pear trees were still standing where the + garden had formerly been, under which he was accustomed to play in his + childhood. + </p> + <p> + At the head of Leven Vale, we set off in the steamer "Water Witch" over + the crystal waters of Loch Lomond, passing Inch Murrin, the deer-park of + the Duke of Montrose, and Inch Caillach, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + ——"where gray pines wave + Their shadows o'er Clan Alpine's grave." +</pre> + <p> + Under the clear sky and golden light of the declining sun, we entered the + Highlands, and heard on every side names we had learned long ago in the + lays of Scott. Here were Glen Fruin and Bannochar, Ross Dhu and the pass + of Beal-ma-na. Further still, we passed Rob Roy's rock, where the lake is + locked in by lofty mountains. The cone-like peak of Ben Lomond rises far + above on the right, Ben Voirlich stands in front, and the jagged crest of + Ben Arthur looks over the shoulders of the western hills. A Scotchman on + board pointed out to us the remarkable places, and related many + interesting legends. Above Inversnaid, where there is a beautiful + waterfall, leaping over the rock and glancing out from the overhanging + birches, we passed McFarland's Island, concerning the origin of which + name, he gave a history. A nephew of one of the old Earls of Lennox, the + ruins of whose castle we saw on Inch Murrin, having murdered his uncle's + cook in a quarrel, was obliged to flee for his life. Returning after many + years, he built a castle upon this island, which was always after named, + on account of his exile, <i>Far-land</i>. On a precipitous point above + Inversnaid, are two caves in the rock; one near the water is called Rob + Roy's, though the guides generally call it Bruce's also, to avoid trouble, + as the real Bruce's Cave is high up the hill. It is so called, because + Bruce hid there one night, from the pursuit of his enemies. It is related + that a mountain goat, who used this probably for a sleeping place, + entered, trod on his mantle, and aroused him. Thinking his enemies were + upon him, he sprang up, and saw the silly animal before him. In token of + gratitude for this agreeable surprise, when he became king, a law was + passed, declaring goats free throughout all Scotland—unpunishable + for whatever trespass they might commit, and the legend further says, that + not having been repealed, it continues in force at the present day. + </p> + <p> + On the opposite shore of the lake is a large rock, called "Bull's Rock," + having a door in the side, with a stairway cut through the interior to a + pulpit on the top, from which the pastor at Arroquhar preaches a monthly + discourse. The Gaelic legend of the rock is, that it once stood near the + summit of the mountain above, and was very nearly balanced on the edge of + a precipice. Two wild bulls, fighting violently, dashed with great force + against the rock, which, being thrown from its balance, was tumbled down + the side of the mountain, till it reached its present position. The Scot + was speaking with great bitterness of the betrayal of Wallace, when I + asked him if it was still considered an insult to turn a loaf of bread + bottom upwards in the presence of a Montieth. "Indeed it is, sir," said + he, "I have often done it myself." + </p> + <p> + Until last May, travellers were taken no higher up the lake than Rob Roy's + Cave, but another boat having commenced running, they can now go beyond + Loch Lomond, two miles up Glen Falloch, to the Inn of Inverarnan, thereby + visiting some of the finest scenery in that part of the Highlands. It was + ludicrous, however, to see the steamboat on a river scarcely wider than + herself, in a little valley, hemmed in completely with lofty mountains. + She went on, however, pushing aside the thickets which lined both banks, + and I almost began to think she was going to take the shore for it, when + we came to a place widened out for her to be turned around in; here we + jumped ashore in a green meadow, on which the cool mist was beginning to + descend. + </p> + <p> + When we arose in the morning, at 4 o'clock, to return with the boat, the + sun was already shining upon the westward hills, scarcely a cloud was in + the sky, and the air was pure and cool. To our great delight Ben Lomond + was unshrouded, and we were told that a more favorable day for the ascent + had not occurred for two months. We left the boat at Rowardennan, an inn + at the southern base of Ben Lomond. After breakfasting on Loch Lomond + trout, I stole out to the shore while my companions were preparing for the + ascent, and made a hasty sketch of the lake. + </p> + <p> + We purposed descending on the northern side and crossing the Highlands to + Loch Katrine; though it was represented as difficult and dangerous by the + guide who wished to accompany us, we determined to run the risk of being + enveloped in a cloud on the summit, and so set out alone, the path + appearing plain before us. We had no difficulty in following it up the + lesser heights, around the base. It wound on, over rock and bog, among the + heather and broom with which the mountain is covered, sometimes running up + a steep acclivity, and then winding zigzag round a rocky ascent. The rains + two days before, had made the bogs damp and muddy, but with this + exception, we had little trouble for some time. Ben Lomond is a doubly + formed mountain. For about three-fourths of the way there is a continued + ascent, when it is suddenly terminated by a large barren plain, from one + end of which the summit shoots up abruptly, forming at the north side, a + precipice 500 feet high. As we approached the summit of the first part of + the mountain, the way became very steep and toilsome; but the prospect, + which had before been only on the south side, began to open on the east, + and we saw suddenly spread out below us, the vale of Menteith, with "far + Loch Ard and Aberfoil" in the centre, and the huge front of Benvenue + filling up the picture. Taking courage from this, we hurried on. The + heather had become stunted and dwarfish, and the ground was covered with + short brown grass. The mountain sheep, which we saw looking at us from the + rock above, had worn so many paths along the side, that we could not tell + which to take, but pushed on in the direction of the summit, till thinking + it must be near at hand, we found a mile and a half of plain before us, + with the top of Ben Lomond at the farther end. The plain was full of wet + moss, crossed in all directions by deep ravines or gullies worn in it by + the mountain rains, and the wind swept across with a tempest-like force. + </p> + <p> + I met, near the base, a young gentleman from Edinburgh, who had left + Rowardennan before us, and we commenced ascending together. It was hard + work, but neither liked to stop, so we climbed up to the first resting + place, and found the path leading along the brink of a precipice. We soon + attained the summit, and climbing up a little mound of earth and stones, I + saw the half of Scotland at a glance. The clouds hung just above the + mountain tops, which rose all around like the waves of a mighty sea. On + every side—near and far—stood their misty summits, but Ben + Lomond was the monarch of them all. Loch Lomond lay unrolled under my feet + like a beautiful map, and just opposite, Loch Long thrust its head from + between the feet of the crowded hills, to catch a glimpse of the giant. We + could see from Ben Nevis to Ayr—from Edinburgh to Staffa. Stirling + and Edinburgh Castles would have been visible, but that the clouds hung + low in the valley of the Forth and hid them from our sight. + </p> + <p> + The view from Ben Lomond is nearly twice as extensive as that from + Catskill, being uninterrupted on every side, but it wants the glorious + forest scenery, clear, blue sky, and active, rejoicing character of the + latter. We stayed about two hours upon the summit, taking refuge behind + the cairn, when the wind blew strong. I found the smallest of flowers + under a rock, and brought it away as a memento. In the middle of the + precipice there is a narrow ravine or rather cleft in the rock, to the + bottom, from whence the mountain slopes regularly but steeply down to the + valley. At the bottom we stopped to awake the echoes, which were repeated + four times; our German companion sang the Hunter's Chorus, which resounded + magnificently through this Highland hall. We drank from the river Forth, + which starts from a spring at the foot of the rock, and then commenced + descending. This was also toilsome enough. The mountain was quite wet and + covered with loose stones, which, dislodged by our feet, went rattling + down the side, oftentimes to the danger of the foremost ones; and when we + had run or rather slid down the three miles, to the bottom, our knees + trembled so as scarcely to support us. + </p> + <p> + Here, at a cottage on the farm of Coman, we procured some oat cakes and + milk for dinner, from an old Scotch woman, who pointed out the direction + of Loch Katrine, six miles distant; there was no road, nor indeed a + solitary dwelling between. The hills were bare of trees, covered with + scraggy bushes and rough heath, which in some places was so thick we could + scarcely drag our feet through. Added to this, the ground was covered with + a kind of moss that retained the moisture like a sponge, so that our boots + ere long became thoroughly soaked. Several considerable streams were + rushing down the side, and many of the wild breed of black Highland cattle + were grazing around. After climbing up and down one or two heights, + occasionally startling the moorcock and ptarmigan from their heathery + coverts, we saw the valley of Loch Con; while in the middle of the plain + on the top of the mountain we had ascended, was a sheet of water which we + took to be Loch Ackill. Two or three wild fowl swimming on its surface + were the only living things in sight. The peaks around shut it out from + all view of the world; a single decayed tree leaned over it from a mossy + rock, which gave the whole scene an air of the most desolate wildness. I + forget the name of the lake; but we learned afterwards that the + Highlanders consider it the abode of the fairies, or "men of peace," and + that it is still superstitiously shunned by them after nightfall. + </p> + <p> + From the next mountain we saw Loch Ackill and Loch Katrine below, but a + wet and weary descent had yet to be made. I was about throwing off my + knapsack on a rock, to take a sketch of Loch Katrine, which appeared very + beautiful from this point, when we discerned a cavalcade of ponies winding + along the path from Inversnaid, to the head of the lake, and hastened down + to take the boat when they should arrive. Our haste turned out to be + unnecessary, however, for they had to wait for their luggage, which was + long in coming. Two boatmen then offered to take us for two shillings and + sixpence each, with the privilege of stopping at Ellen's Isle; the regular + fare being two shillings. We got in, when, after exchanging a few words in + Gaelic, one of them called to the travellers, of whom there were a number, + to come and take passage at two shillings—then at one and sixpence, + and finally concluded by requesting them all to step on board the shilling + boat! At length, having secured nine at this reduced price, we pushed off; + one of the passengers took the helm, and the boat glided merrily over the + clear water. + </p> + <p> + It appears there is some opposition among the boatmen this summer, which + is all the better for travelers. They are a bold race, and still preserve + many of the characteristics of the clan from which they sprung. One of + ours, who had a chieftain-like look, was a MacGregor, related to Rob Roy. + The fourth descendant in a direct line, now inhabits the Rob Roy mansion, + at Glengyle, a valley at the head of the lake. A small steamboat was put + upon Loch Katrine a short time ago, but the boatmen, jealous of this new + invasion of their privilege, one night towed her out to the middle of the + lake and there sunk her. + </p> + <p> + Near the point of Brianchoil is a very small island with a few trees upon + it, of which the boatman related a story that was new to me. He said an + eccentric individual, many years ago, built his house upon it—but it + was soon beaten down by the winds and waves. Having built it up with like + fortune several times, he at last desisted, saying, "bought wisdom was the + best;" since when it has been called the Island of Wisdom. On the shore + below, the boatman showed us his cottage. The whole family were out at the + door to witness our progress; he hoisted a flag, and when we came + opposite, they exchanged shouts in Gaelic. As our men resumed their oars + again, we assisted in giving three cheers, which made the echoes of + Benvenue ring again. Some one observed his dog, looking after us from a + projecting rock, when he called out to him, "go home, you brute!" We asked + him why he did not speak Gaelic also to his dog. + </p> + <p> + "Very few dogs, indeed," said he, "understand Gaelic, but they all + understand English. And we therefore all use English when speaking to our + dogs; indeed, I know some persons, who know nothing of English, that speak + it to their dogs!" + </p> + <p> + They then sang, in a rude manner, a Gaelic song. The only word I could + distinguish was Inch Caillach, the burying place of Clan Alpine. They told + us it was the answer of a Highland girl to a foreign lord, who wished to + make her his bride. Perhaps, like the American Indian, she would not leave + the graves of her fathers. As we drew near the eastern end of the lake, + the scenery became far more beautiful. The Trosachs opened before us. Ben + Ledi looked down over the "forehead bare" of Ben An, and, as we turned a + rocky point, Ellen's Isle rose up in front. It is a beautiful little + turquoise in the silver setting of Loch Katrine. The northern side alone + is accessible, all the others being rocky and perpendicular, and thickly + grown with trees. We rounded the island to the little bay, bordered by the + silver strand, above which is the rock from which Fitz-James wound his + horn, and shot under an ancient oak which flung its long grey arms over + the water; we here found a flight of rocky steps, leading to the top, + where stood the bower erected by Lady Willoughby D'Eresby, to correspond + with Scott's description. Two or three blackened beams are all that remain + of it, having been burned down some years ago, by the carelessness of a + traveler. + </p> + <p> + The mountains stand all around, like giants, to "sentinel this enchanted + land." On leaving the island, we saw the Goblin's Cave, in the side of + Benvenue, called by the Gaels, "Coirnan-Uriskin." Near it is Beal-nam-bo, + the pass of cattle, overhung with grey weeping birch trees. Here the + boatmen stopped to let us hear the fine echo, and the names of "Rob Roy," + and "Roderick Dhu," were sent back to us apparently as loud as they were + given. The description of Scott is wonderfully exact, though the forest + that feathered o'er the sides of Benvenue, has since been cut down and + sold by the Duke of Montrose. When we reached the end of the lake it + commenced raining, and we hastened on through the pass of Beal-an-Duine, + scarcely taking time to glance at the scenery, till Loch Achray appeared + through the trees, and on its banks the ivy-grown front of the inn of + Ardcheancrochan, with its unpronounceable name. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. — THE BURNS FESTIVAL. + </h2> + <p> + We passed a glorious summer morning on the banks of Loch Katrine. The air + was pure, fresh and balmy, and the warm sunshine glowed upon forest and + lake, upon dark crag and purple mountain-top. The lake was a scene in + fairy-land. Returning over the rugged battle-plain in the jaws of the + Trosachs, we passed the wild, lonely valley of Glenfinlas and Lanric Mead, + at the head of Loch Vennachar, rounding the foot of Ben Ledi to + Coilantogle Ford. We saw the desolate hills of Uam-var over which the stag + fled from his lair in Glenartney, and keeping on through Callander, + stopped for the night at a little inn on the banks of the Teith. The next + day we walked through Doune, over the lowlands to Stirling. Crossing Allan + Water and the Forth, we climbed Stirling Castle and looked on the purple + peaks of the Ochill Mountains, the far Grampians, and the battle-fields of + Bannockburn and Sheriff Muir. Our German comrade, feeling little interest + in the memory of the poet-ploughman, left in the steamboat for Edinburg; + we mounted an English coach and rode to Falkirk, where we took the cars + for Glasgow in order to attend the Burns Festival, on the 6th of August. + </p> + <p> + This was a great day for Scotland—the assembling of all classes to + do honor to the memory of her peasant-bard. And right fitting was it, too, + that such a meeting should be hold on the banks of the Doon, the stream of + which he has sung so sweetly, within sight of the cot where he was born, + the beautiful monument erected by his countrymen, and more than all, + beside "Alloway's witch-haunted wall!" One would think old Albyn would + rise up at the call, and that from the wild hunters of the northern hills + to the shepherds of the Cheviots, half her honest yeomanry would be there, + to render gratitude to the memory of the sweet bard who was one of them, + and who gave their wants and their woes such eloquent utterance. + </p> + <p> + For months before had the proposition been made to hold a meeting on the + Doon, similar to the Shakspeare Festival on the Avon, and the 10th of July + was first appointed for the day, but owing to the necessity of further + time for preparation, it was postponed until the 6th of August. The Earl + of Eglintoun was chosen Chairman, and Professor Wilson Vice-Chairman; in + addition to this, all the most eminent British authors were invited to + attend. A pavilion, capable of containing two thousand persons, had been + erected near the monument, in a large field, which was thrown open to the + public. Other preparations were made and the meeting was expected to be of + the most interesting character. + </p> + <p> + When we arose it was raining, and I feared that the weather might dampen + somewhat the pleasures of the day, as it had done to the celebrated + tournament at Eglintoun Castle. We reached the station in time for the + first train, and sped in the face of the wind over the plains of Ayrshire, + which, under such a gloomy sky, looked most desolate. We ran some distance + along the coast, having a view of the Hills of Arran, and reached Ayr + about nine o'clock. We came first to the New Bridge, which had a triumphal + arch in the middle, and the lines, from the "Twa Brigs of Ayr:" + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Will your poor narrow foot-path of a street, + Where twa wheel-barrows tremble when they meet, + Your ruin'd, formless bulk o' stane and lime, + Compare wi' bonnie brigs o' modern time?" +</pre> + <p> + While on the arch of the 'old brig' was the reply: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "I'll be a brig when ye're a shapeless stane." +</pre> + <p> + As we advanced into the town, the decorations became more frequent. The + streets were crowded with people carrying banners and wreaths, many of the + houses were adorned with green boughs and the vessels in the harbor hung + out all their flags. We saw the Wallace Tower, a high Gothic building, + having in front a statue of Wallace leaning on his sword, by Thom, a + native of Ayr, and on our way to the green, where the procession was to + assemble, passed under the triumphal arch thrown across the street + opposite the inn where Tarn O'Shanter caroused so long with Souter Johnny. + Leaving the companies to form on the long meadow bordering the shore, we + set out for the Doon, three miles distant. Beggars were seated at regular + distances along the road, uttering the most dolorous whinings. Both + bridges were decorated in the same manner, with miserable looking objects, + keeping up, during the whole day, a continual lamentation. Persons are + prohibited from begging in England and Scotland, but I suppose, this being + an extraordinary day, license was given them as a favor, to beg free. I + noticed that the women, with their usual kindness of heart, bestowed + nearly all the alms which these unfortunate objects received. The night + before, as I was walking through the streets of Glasgow, a young man of + the poorer class, very scantily dressed, stepped up to me and begged me to + listen to him for a moment. He spoke hurriedly, and agitatedly, begging + me, in God's name, to give him something, however little. I gave him what + few pence I had with me, when he grasped my hand with a quick motion, + saying: "Sir, you little think how much you have done for me." I was about + to inquire more particularly into his situation, but he had disappeared + among the crowd. + </p> + <p> + We passed the "cairn where hunters found the murdered bairn," along a + pleasant road to the Burns cottage, where it was spanned by a magnificent + triumphal arch of evergreens and flowers. To the disgrace of Scotland, + this neat little thatched cot, where Burns passed the first seven years of + his life, is now occupied by somebody, who has stuck up a sign over the + door, "<i>licensed to retail spirits, to be drunk on the premises</i>;" + and accordingly the rooms were crowded full of people, all drinking. There + was a fine original portrait of Burns in one room, and in the old + fashioned kitchen we saw the recess where he was born. The hostess looked + towards us as if to inquire what we would drink, and I hastened away—there + was profanity in the thought. But by this time, the bell of Old Alloway, + which still hangs in its accustomed place, though the walls only are left, + began tolling, and we obeyed the call. The attachment of the people for + this bell, is so great, that a short time ago, when it was ordered to be + removed, the inhabitants rose en masse, and prevented it. The ruin, which + is close by the road, stands in the middle of the church-yard, and the + first thing I saw, on going in the gate, was the tomb of the father of + Burns. I looked in the old window, but the interior was filled with rank + weeds, and overshadowed by a young tree, which had grown nearly to the + eaves. + </p> + <p> + The crowd was now fast gathering in the large field, in the midst of which + the pavilion was situated. We went down by the beautiful monument to + Burns, to the "Auld Brig o' Doon," which was spanned by an arch of + evergreens, containing a representation of Tam O'Shanter and his grey + mare, pursued by the witches. It had been arranged that the procession was + to pass over the old and new bridges, and from thence by a temporary + bridge over the hedge into the field. At this latter place a stand was + erected for the sons of Burns, the officers of the day, and distinguished + guests. Here was a beautiful specimen of English exclusiveness. The space + adjoining the pavilion was fenced around, and admittance denied at first + to any, except those who had tickets for the dinner, which, the price + being fifteen shillings, entirely prevented the humble laborers, who, more + than all, should participate on the occasion, from witnessing the review + of the procession by the sons of Burns, and hearing the eloquent speeches + of Professor Wilson and Lord Eglintoun. Thus, of the many thousands who + were in the field, but a few hundred who were crowded between the bridge + and the railing around the pavilion, enjoyed the interesting spectacle. By + good fortune, I obtained a stand, where I had an excellent view of the + scene. The sons of Burns were in the middle of the platform, with + Eglintoun on the right, and Wilson on their left. Mrs. Begg, sister of the + Poet, with her daughters, stood by the Countess of Eglintoun. She was a + plain, benevolent looking woman, dressed in black, and appearing still + active and vigorous, though she is upwards of eighty years old. She bears + some likeness, especially in the expression of her eye, to the Poet. + Robert Burns, the oldest son, appeared to me to have a strong resemblance + of his father, and it is said he is the only one who remembers his face. + He has for a long time had an office under Government, in London. The + others have but lately returned from a residence of twenty years in India. + Professor Wilson appeared to enter into the spirit of the scene better + than any of them. He shouted and waved his hat, and, with his fine, broad + forehead, his long brown locks already mixed with gray, streaming over his + shoulders, and that eagle eye glancing over the vast assemblage, seemed a + real Christopher North, yet full of the fire and vigor of youth—"a + gray-haired, happy boy!" + </p> + <p> + About half of the procession consisted of lodges of masons, all of whom + turned out on the occasion, as Burns was one of the fraternity. I was most + interested in several companies of shepherds, from the hills, with their + crooks and plaids; a body of archers in Lincoln green, with a handsome + chief at their head, and some Highlanders in their most picturesque of + costumes. As one of the companies, which carried a mammoth thistle in a + box, came near the platform, Wilson snatched a branch, regardless of its + pricks, and placed it on his coat. After this pageant, which could not + have been much less than three miles long, had passed, a band was + stationed on the platform in the centre of the field, around which it + formed in a circle, and the whole company sang, "Ye Banks and Braes o' + Bonnie Doon." Just at this time, a person dressed to represent Tam + O'Shanter, mounted on a gray mare, issued from a field near the Burns + Monument and rode along towards Alloway Kirk, from which, when he + approached it, a whole legion of witches sallied out and commenced a hot + pursuit. They turned back, however, at the keystone of the bridge, the + witch with the "cutty sark" holding up in triumph the abstracted tail of + Maggie. Soon after this the company entered the pavilion, and the + thousands outside were entertained, as an especial favor, by the band of + the 87th Regiment, while from the many liquor booths around the field, + they could enjoy themselves in another way. + </p> + <p> + We went up to the Monument, which was of more particular interest to us, + from the relics within, but admission was denied to all. Many persons were + collected around the gate, some of whom, having come from a great + distance, were anxious to see it; but the keeper only said, such were the + orders and he could not disobey them. Among the crowd, a grandson of the + original Tam O'Shanter was shown to us. He was a raw-looking boy of + nineteen or twenty, wearing a shepherd's cap and jacket, and muttered his + disapprobation very decidedly, at not being able to visit the Monument. + </p> + <p> + There were one or two showers during the day, and the sky, all the time, + was dark and lowering, which was unfavorable for the celebration; but all + were glad enough that the rain kept aloof till the ceremonies were nearly + over. The speeches delivered at the dinner, which appeared in the papers + next morning, are undoubtedly very eloquent. I noticed in the remarks of + Robert Burns, in reply to Professor Wilson, an acknowledgment which the + other speakers forgot. He said, "The Sons of Burns have grateful hearts, + and to the last hour of their existence, they will remember the honor that + has been paid them this day, by the noble, the lovely and the talented, of + their native land—by men of genius and kindred spirit from our + sister land—and lastly, they owe their thanks to the inhabitants of + the far distant west, a country of a great, free, and kindred people! + (loud cheers.)" In connexion with this subject, I saw an anecdote of the + Poet, yesterday, which is not generally known. During his connexion with + the Excise, he was one day at a party, where the health of Pitt, then + minister, was proposed, as "his master and theirs." He immediately turned + down his glass and said, "I will give you the health of a far greater and + better man—GEORGE WASHINGTON!" + </p> + <p> + We left the field early and went back through the muddy streets of Ayr. + The street before the railway office was crowded, and there was so dense a + mass of people on the steps, that it seemed almost impossible to get near. + Seeing no other chance, I managed to take my stand on the lowest steps, + where the pressure of the crowd behind and the working of the throng on + the steps, raised me off my feet, and in about a quarter of an hour + carried me, compressed into the smallest possible space, up the steps to + the door, where the crowd burst in by fits, like water rushing out of a + bottle. We esteemed ouvselves fortunate in getting room to stand in an + open car, where, after a two hours' ride through the wind and pelting + rain, we arrived at Glasgow. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. — WALK FROM EDINBURG OVER THE BORDER AND ARRIVAL AT + LONDON. + </h2> + <p> + We left Glasgow on the morning after returning from the Burns Festival, + taking passage in the open cars for Edinburg, for six shillings. On + leaving the depot, we plunged into the heart of the hill on which Glasgow + Cathedral stands and were whisked through darkness and sulphury smoke to + daylight again. The cars bore us past a spur of the Highlands, through a + beautiful country where women were at work in the fields, to Linlithgow, + the birth-place of Queen Mary. The majestic ruins of its once-proud + palace, stand on a green meadow behind the town. In another hour we were + walking through Edinburg, admiring its palace-like edifices, and stopping + every few minutes to gaze up at some lofty monument. Really, thought I, we + call Baltimore the "Monumental City" for its two marble columns, and here + is Edinburg with one at every street-corner! These, too, not in the midst + of glaring red buildings, where they seem to have been accidentally + dropped, but framed in by lofty granite mansions, whose long vistas make + an appropriate background to the picture. + </p> + <p> + We looked from Calton Hill on Salisbury Crags and over the Firth of Forth, + then descended to dark old Holyrood, where the memory of lovely Mary + lingers like a stray sunbeam in her cold halls, and the fair, boyish face + of Rizzio looks down from the canvass on the armor of his murderer. We + threaded the Canongate and climbed to the Castle; and finally, after a day + and a half's sojourn, buckled on our knapsacks and marched out of the + Northern Athens. In a short time the tall spire of Dalkeith appeared above + the green wood, and we saw to the right, perched on the steep banks of the + Esk, the picturesque cottage of Hawthornden, where Drummond once lived in + poetic solitude. We made haste to cross the dreary waste of the Muirfoot + Hills before nightfall, from the highest summit of which we took a last + view of Edinburg Castle and the Salisbury Crags, then blue in the + distance. Far to the east were the hills of Lammermuir and the country of + Mid-Lothian lay before us. It was all <i>Scott</i>-land. The inn of + Torsonce, beside the Gala Water, was our resting-place for the night. As + we approached Galashiels the next morning, where the bed of the silver + Gala is nearly emptied by a number of dingy manufactories, the hills + opened, disclosing the sweet vale of the Tweed, guarded by the triple peak + of the Eildon, at whose base lay nestled the village of Melrose. + </p> + <p> + I stopped at a bookstore to purchase a view of the Abbey; to my surprise + nearly half the works were by American authors. There wore Bryant, + Longfellow, Channing, Emerson, Dana, Ware and many others. The bookseller + told me he had sold more of Ware's Letters than any other book in his + store, "and also," to use his own words, "an immense number of the great + Dr. Channing." I have seen English editions of Percival, Willis, Whittier + and Mrs. Sigourney, but Bancroft and Prescott are classed among the + "standard <i>British</i> historians." + </p> + <p> + Crossing the Gala we ascended a hill on the road to Selkirk, and behold! + the Tweed ran below, and opposite, in the midst of embowering trees + planted by the hand of Scott, rose the grey halls of Abbotsford. We went + down a lane to the banks of the swift stream, but finding no ferry, B—— + and I, as it looked very shallow, thought we might save a long walk by + wading across. F—— preferred hunting for a boat; we two set + out together, with our knapsacks on our backs, and our boots in our hands. + The current was ice-cold and very swift, and as the bed was covered with + loose stones, it required the greatest care to stand upright. Looking at + the bottom, through the rapid water, made my head so giddy, I was forced + to stop and shut my eyes; my friend, who had firmer nerves, went plunging + on to a deeper and swifter part, where the strength of the current made + him stagger very unpleasantly. I called to him to return; the next thing I + saw, he gave a plunge and went down to the shoulder in the cold flood. + While he was struggling with a frightened expression of face to recover + his footing, I leaned on my staff and laughed till I was on the point of + falling also. To crown our mortification, F—— had found a + ferry a few yards higher up and was on the opposite shore, watching us + wade back again, my friend with dripping clothes and boots full of water. + I could not forgive the pretty Scotch damsel who rowed us across, the + mischievous lurking smile which told that she too had witnessed the + adventure. + </p> + <p> + We found a foot-path on the other side, which led through a young forest + to Abbotsford. Rude pieces of sculpture, taken from Melrose Abbey, were + scattered around the gate, some half buried in the earth and overgrown + with weeds. The niches in the walls were filled with pieces of sculpture, + and an antique marble greyhound reposed in the middle of the court yard. + We rang the bell in an outer vestibule, ornamented with several pairs of + antlers, when a lady appeared, who, from her appearance, I have no doubt + was Mrs. Ormand, the "Duenna of Abbotsford," so humorously described by + D'Arlincourt, in his "Three Kingdoms." She ushered us into the entrance + hall, which has a magnificent ceiling of carved oak and is lighted by + lofty stained windows. An effigy of a knight in armor stood at either end, + one holding a huge two-handed sword found on Bosworth Field; the walls + were covered with helmets and breastplates of the olden time. + </p> + <p> + Among the curiosities in the Armory are Napoleon's pistols, the + blunderbuss of Hofer, Rob Roy's purse and gun, and the offering box of + Queen Mary. Through the folding doors between the dining-room, + drawing-room and library, is a fine vista, terminated by a niche, in which + stands Chantrey's bust of Scott. The ceilings are of carved Scottish oak + and the doors of American cedar. Adjoining the library is his study, the + walls of which are covered with books; the doors and windows are double, + to render it quiet and undisturbed. His books and inkstand are on the + table and his writing-chair stands before it, as if he had left them but a + moment before. In a little closet adjoining, where he kept his private + manuscripts, are the clothes he last wore, his cane and belt, to which a + hammer and small axe are attached, and his sword. A narrow staircase led + from the study to his sleeping room above, by which he could come down at + night and work while his family slept. The silence about the place is + solemn and breathless, as if it waited to be broken by his returning + footstep. I felt an awe in treading these lonely halls, like that which + impressed me before the grave of Washington—a feeling that hallowed + the spot, as if there yet lingered a low vibration of the lyre, though the + minstrel had departed forever! + </p> + <p> + Plucking a wild rose that grew near the walls, I left Abbotsford, + embosomed among the trees, and turned into a green lane that led down to + Melrose. We went immediately to the Abbey, in the lower part of the + village, near the Tweed. As I approached the gate, the porteress came out, + and having scrutinized me rather sharply, asked my name. I told her;—"well," + she added, "there is a <i>prospect</i> here for you." Thinking she alluded + to the ruin, I replied: "Yes, the view is certainly very fine." "Oh! I + don't mean that," she replied, "a young gentleman left a prospect here for + you!"—whereupon she brought out a spy-glass, which I recognized us + one that our German comrade had given to me. He had gone on, and hoped to + meet us at Jedburgh. + </p> + <p> + Melrose is the finest remaining specimen of Gothic architecture in + Scotland. Some of the sculptured flowers in the cloister arches are + remarkably beautiful and delicate, and the two windows—the south and + east oriels—are of a lightness and grace of execution really + surprising. We saw the tomb of Michael Scott, of King Alexander II, and + that of the Douglas, marked with a sword. The heart of Bruce is supposed + to have been buried beneath the high altar. The chancel is all open to the + sky, and rooks build their nests among the wild ivy that climbs over the + crumbling arches. One of these came tamely down and perched upon the hand + of our fair guide. By a winding stair in one of the towers we mounted to + the top of the arch and looked down on the grassy floor. I sat on the + broken pillar, which Scott always used for a seat when he visited the + Abbey, and read the disinterring of the magic book, in the "Lay of the + Last Minstrel." I never comprehended its full beauty till then: the memory + of Melrose will give it a thrilling interest, in the future. When we left, + I was willing to say, with the Minstrel: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Was never scene so sad and fair!" +</pre> + <p> + After seeing the home and favorite haunt of Scott, we felt a wish to stand + by his grave, but we had Ancrum Moor to pass before night, and the Tweed + was between us and Dryburgh Abbey. We did not wish to try another watery + adventure, and therefore walked on to the village of Ancrum, where a + gate-keeper on the road gave us lodging and good fare, for a moderate + price. Many of this class practise this double employment, and the + economical traveller, who looks more to comfort than luxury, will not fail + to patronize them. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we took a foot-path over the hills to Jedburgh. From the + summit there was a lovely view of the valley of the Teviot, with the blue + Cheviots in the distance. I thought of Pringle's beautiful farewell: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Our native land, our native vale, + A long, a last adieu, + farewell to bonny Teviot-dale, + And Cheviot's mountains blue!" +</pre> + <p> + The poet was born in the valley below, and one that looks upon its beauty + cannot wonder how his heart clung to the scenes he was leaving. We saw + Jedburgh and its majestic old Abbey, and ascended the valley of the Jed + towards the Cheviots. The hills, covered with woods of a richness and even + gorgeous beauty of foliage, shut out this lovely glen completely from the + world. I found myself continually coveting the lonely dwellings that were + perched on the rocky heights, or nestled, like a fairy pavilion, in the + lap of a grove. These forests formerly furnished the wood for the + celebrated Jedwood axe, used in the Border forays. + </p> + <p> + As we continued ascending, the prospect behind us widened, till we reached + the summit of the Carter Fell, whence there is a view of great extent and + beauty. The Eildon Hills, though twenty-five miles distant, seemed in the + foreground of the picture. With a glass, Edinburgh Castle might be seen + over the dim outline of the Muirfoot Hills. After crossing the border, we + passed the scene of the encounter between Percy and Douglass, celebrated + in "Chevy Chase," and at the lonely inn of Whitelee, in the valley below, + took up our quarters for the night. + </p> + <p> + Travellers have described the Cheviots as being bleak and uninteresting. + Although they are bare and brown, to me the scenery was of a character of + beauty entirely original. They are not rugged and broken like the + Highlands, but lift their round backs gracefully from the plain, while the + more distant ranges are clad in many an airy hue. Willis quaintly and + truly remarks, that travellers only tell you the picture produced in their + own brain by what they see, otherwise the world would be like a + pawnbroker's shop, where each traveller wears the cast-off clothes of + others. Therefore let no one, of a gloomy temperament, journeying over the + Cheviots in dull November, arraign me for having falsely praised their + beauty. + </p> + <p> + I was somewhat amused with seeing a splendid carriage with footmen and + outriders, crossing the mountain, the glorious landscape full in view, + containing a richly dressed lady, <i>fast asleep!</i> It is no uncommon + thing to meet carriages in the Highlands, in which the occupants are + comfortably reading, while being whirled through the finest scenery. And + <i>apropos</i> of this subject, my German friend related to me an + incident. His brother was travelling on the Rhine, and when in the midst + of the grandest scenes, met a carriage containing an English gentleman and + lady, both asleep, while on the seat behind was stationed an artist, + sketching away with all his might. He asked the latter the reason of his + industry, when he answered, "Oh! my lord wishes to see every night what he + has passed during the day, and so I sketch as we go along!" + </p> + <p> + The hills, particularly on the English side, are covered with flocks of + sheep, and lazy shepherds lay basking in the sun, among the purple + heather, with their shaggy black dogs beside them. On many of the hills + are landmarks, by which, when the snow has covered all the trucks, they + can direct their way. After walking many miles through green valleys, down + which flowed the Red Water, its very name telling of the conflicts which + had crimsoned its tide, we came to the moors, and ten miles of blacker, + drearier waste I never saw. Before entering them we passed the pretty + little village of Otterburn, near the scene of the battle. I brought away + a wild flower that grew on soil enriched by the blood of the Percys. On + the village inn, is their ancient coat of arms, a lion rampant, on a field + of gold, with the motto, "<i>Esperance en Dieu</i>." Scarcely a house or a + tree enlivened the black waste, and even the road was marked on each side + by high poles, to direct the traveller in winter. We were glad when at + length the green fields came again in sight, and the little village of + Whelpington Knowes, with its old ivy-grown church tower, welcomed us after + the lonely walk. + </p> + <p> + As one specimen of the intelligence of this part of England, we saw a + board conspicuously posted at the commencement of a private road, + declaring that "all persons travelling this way will be <i>persecuted</i>." + As it led to a <i>church</i>, however, there may have been a design in the + expression. + </p> + <p> + On the fifth day after leaving Edinburgh, we reached a hill, overlooking + the valley of the Tyne and the German Ocean, as sunset was reddening in + the west. A cloud of coal-smoke made us aware of the vicinity of + Newcastle. On the summit of the hill a large cattle fair was being held, + and crowds of people were gathered in and around a camp of gaudily + decorated tents. Fires were kindled here and there, and drinking, + carousing and horse-racing were flourishing in full vigor. + </p> + <p> + We set out one morning to hunt the Roman Wall. Passing the fine buildings + in the centre of the city and the lofty monument to Earl Grey, we went + towards the western gate and soon came to the ruins of a building, about + whose origin there could be no doubt. It stood there, blackened by the + rust of ages, a remnant of power passed away. There was no mistaking the + massive round tower, with its projecting ornaments, such as are often seen + in the ruder works of the Romans. On each side a fragment of wall remained + standing, and there appeared to be a chamber in the interior, which was + choked up with rubbish. There is another tower, much higher, in a public + square in another part of the city, a portion of which is fitted up as a + dwelling for the family which takes care of it; but there was such a + ridiculous contrast between the ivy-grown top, and the handsome modern + windows and doors of the lower story, that it did not impress me half as + much as the other, with all its neglect. These are the farthest limits of + that power whose mighty works I hope hereafter to view at the seat of her + grandeur and glory. + </p> + <p> + I witnessed a scene at Newcastle that cannot soon be forgotten; as it + showed more plainly than I had before an opportunity of observing, the + state to which the laboring classes of England are reduced. Hearing + singing in the street, under my window, one morning, I looked out and saw + a body of men, apparently of the lower class, but decent and sober + looking, who were singing in a rude and plaintive strain some ballad, the + purport of which I could not understand. On making inquiry, I discovered + it was part of a body of miners, who, about eighteen weeks before, in + consequence of not being able to support their families with the small + pittance allowed them, had "struck" for higher wages. This their employers + refused to give them, and sent to Wales, where they obtained workmen at + the former price. The houses these laborers had occupied were all taken + from them, and for eighteen weeks they had no other means of subsistence + than the casual charity given them for singing the story of their wrongs. + It made my blood boil to bear those tones, wrung from the heart of poverty + by the hand of tyranny. The ignorance, permitted by the government, causes + an unheard amount of misery and degradation. We heard afterwards in the + streets, another company who played on musical instruments. Beneath the + proud swell of England's martial airs, there sounded to my ears a tone + whose gathering murmur will make itself heard ere long by the dull cars of + Power. + </p> + <p> + At last at the appointed time, we found ourselves on board the "London + Merchant," in the muddy Tyne, waiting for the tide to rise high enough to + permit us to descend the river. There is great competition among the + steamboats this summer, and the price of passage to London is reduced to + five and ten shillings. The second cabin, however, is a place of tolerable + comfort, and as the steward had promised to keep berths for us, we engaged + passage. Following the windings of the narrow river, we passed Sunderland + and Tynemouth, where it expands into the German Ocean. The water was + barely stirred by a gentle wind, and little resembled the stormy sea I + expected to find it. We glided over the smooth surface, watching the blue + line of the distant shore till dark, when I went below expecting to enjoy + a few hours' oblivion. But the faithless steward had given up the promised + berth to another, and it was only with difficulty that I secured a seat by + the cabin table, where I dozed half the night with my head on my arms. It + grew at last too close and wearisome; I went up on deck and lay down on + the windlass, taking care to balance myself well before going to sleep. + The earliest light of dawn awoke me to a consciousness of damp clothes and + bruised limbs. We were in sight of the low shore the whole day, sometimes + seeing the dim outline of a church, or group of trees over the downs or + flat beds of sand, which border the eastern coast of England. About dark, + the red light of the Nore was seen, and we hoped before many hours to be + in London. The lights of Gravesend were passed, but about ten o'clock, as + we entered the narrow channel of the Thames, we struck another steamboat + in the darkness, and were obliged to cast anchor for some time. When I + went on deck in the gray light of morning again, we were gliding up a + narrow, muddy river, between rows of gloomy buildings, with many vessels + lying at anchor. It grew lighter, till, as we turned a point, right + before, me lay a vast crowd of vessels, and in the distance, above the + wilderness of buildings, stood a dim, gigantic dome in the sky; what a + bound my heart gave at the sight! And the tall pillar that stood near it—I + did not need a second glance to recognize the Monument. I knew the + majestic bridge that spanned the river above; but on the right bank stood + a cluster of massive buildings, crowned with many a turret, that attracted + my eye. A crowd of old associations pressed bewilderingly upon the mind, + to see standing there, grim and dark with many a bloody page of England's + history—the Tower of London! The morning sky was as yet but faintly + obscured by the coal-smoke, and in the misty light of coming sunrise, all + objects seemed grander than their wont. In spite of the thrilling interest + of the scene, I could not help thinking of Byron's ludicrous but most + expressive description: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "A mighty mass of brick and smoke and shipping, + Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye + Can reach; with here and there a sail just skipping + In sight, then lost amidst the forestry + Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping + On tiptoe through their sea-coal canopy; + A huge dun cupola, like a fool's-cap crown + On a fool's head,—and there is London town." +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. — SOME OF THE "SIGHTS" OF LONDON. + </h2> + <p> + In the course of time we came to anchor in the stream; skiffs from the + shore pulled alongside, and after some little quarrelling, we were safely + deposited in one, with a party who desired to be landed at the Tower + Stairs. The dark walls frowned above us as we mounted from the water and + passed into an open square on the outside of the moat. The laborers were + about commencing work, the fashionable <i>day</i> having just closed, but + there was still noise and bustle enough in the streets, particularly when + we reached Whitechapel, part of the great thoroughfare, extending through + the heart of London to Westminster Abbey and the Parliament buildings. + Further on, through Leadenhall street and Fleet street—what a world! + Here come the ever-thronging, ever-rolling waves of life, pressing and + whirling on in their tumultuous career. Here day and night pours the + stream of human beings, seeming amid the roar and din and clatter of the + passing vehicles, like the tide of some great combat. How lonely it makes + one to stand still and feel that of all the mighty throng which divides + itself around him, not a being knows or cares for him! What knows he too + of the thousands who pass him by? How many who bear the impress of godlike + virtue, or hide beneath a goodly countenance a heart black with crime? How + many fiery spirits, all glowing with hope for the yet unclouded future, or + brooding over a darkened and desolate past in the agony of despair? There + is a sublimity in this human Niagara that makes one look on his own race + with something of awe. + </p> + <p> + We walked down the Thames, through the narrow streets of Wapping, Over the + mouth of the Tunnel is a large circular building, with a dome to light the + entrance below. Paying the fee of a penny, we descended by a winding + staircase to the bottom, which is seventy-three feet below the surface. + The carriage-way, still unfinished, will extend further into the city. + From the bottom the view of the two arches of the Tunnel, brilliantly + lighted with gas, is very fine; it has a much less heavy and gloomy + appearance than I expected. As we walked along under the bed of the river, + two or three girls at one end began playing on the French horn and bugle, + and the echoes, when not too deep to confuse the melody, were remarkably + beautiful. Between the arches of the division separating the two passages, + are shops, occupied by venders of fancy articles, views of the Tunnel, + engravings, &c. In the middle is a small printing press, where, a + sheet containing a description of the whole work is printed for those who + desire it. As I was no stranger to this art, I requested the boy to let me + print one myself, but he had such a bad roller I did not succeed in + getting a good impression. The air within is somewhat damp, but fresh and + agreeably cool, and one can scarcely realize in walking along the light + passage, that a river is rolling above his head. The immense solidity and + compactness of the structure precludes the danger of accident, each of the + sides being arched outwards, so that the heaviest pressure only + strengthens the whole. It will long remain a noble monument of human + daring and ingenuity. + </p> + <p> + St. Paul's is on a scale of grandeur excelling every thing I have yet + seen. The dome seems to stand in the sky, as you look up to it; the + distance from which you view it, combined with the atmosphere of London, + give it a dim, shadowy appearance, that perfectly startles one with its + immensity. The roof from which the dome springs is itself as high as the + spires of most other churches—blackened for two hundred years with + the coal-smoke of London, it stands like a relic of the giant architecture + of the early world. The interior is what one would expect to behold, after + viewing the outside. A maze of grand arches on every side, encompasses the + dome, which you gaze up at, as at the sky; and from every pillar and wall + look down the marble forms of the dead. There is scarcely a vacant niche + left in all this mighty hall, so many are the statues that meet one on + every side. With the exceptions of John Howard, Sir Astley Cooper and + Wren, whose monument is the church itself, they are all to military men. I + thought if they had all been removed except Howard's, it would better have + suited such a temple, and the great soul it commemorated. + </p> + <p> + I never was more impressed with the grandeur of human invention, than when + ascending the dome. I could with difficulty conceive the means by which + such a mighty edifice had been lifted into the air. That small frame of + Sir Christopher Wren must have contained a mind capable of vast + conceptions. The dome is like the summit of a mountain; so wide is the + prospect, and so great the pile upon which you stand. London lay beneath + us, like an ant-hill, with the black insects swarming to and fro in their + long avenues, the sound of their employments coming up like the roar of + the sea. A cloud of coal-smoke hung over it, through which many a pointed + spire was thrust up; sometimes the wind would blow it aside for a moment, + and the thousands of red roofs would shine out clearer. The bridged + Thames, covered with craft of all sizes, wound beneath us like a ringed + and spotted serpent. The scene was like an immense circular picture in the + blue frame of the hills around. + </p> + <p> + Continuing our way up Fleet street, which, notwithstanding the gaiety of + its shops and its constant bustle, has an antique appearance, we came to + the Temple Bar, the western boundary of the ancient city. In the inside of + the middle arch, the old gates are still standing. From this point we + entered the new portion of the city, which wore an air of increasing + splendor as we advanced. The appearance of the Strand and Trafalgar Square + is truly magnificent. Fancy every house in Broadway a store, all built of + light granite, the Park stripped of all its trees and paved with granite, + and a lofty column in the centre, double the crowd and the tumult of + business, and you will have some idea of the view. + </p> + <p> + It was a relief to get into St. James's Park, among the trees and flowers + again. Here, beautiful winding walks led around little lakes, in which + were hundreds of water-fowl, swimming. Groups of merry children were + sporting on the green lawn, enjoying their privilege of roaming every + where at will, while the older bipeds were confined to the regular walks. + At the western end stood Buckingham Palace, looking over the trees towards + St. Paul's; through the grove on the eminence above, the towers of St. + James's could be seen. But there was a dim building, with two lofty square + towers, decorated with a profusion of pointed Gothic pinnacles, that I + looked at with more interest than these appendages of royalty. I could not + linger long in its vicinity, but going back again by the Horse Guards, + took the road to <i>Westminster Abbey</i>. + </p> + <p> + We approached by the general entrance, Poet's Corner. I hardly stopped to + look at the elaborate exterior of Henry VIIth's Chapel, but passed on to + the door. On entering, the first thing that met my eyes were the words, + "OH RARE BEN JONSON," under his bust. Near by stood the monuments of + Spenser and Gay, and a few paces further looked down the sublime + countenance of Milton. Never was a spot so full of intense interest. The + light was just dim enough to give it a solemn, religious appearance, + making the marble forms of poets and philosophers so shadowy and + impressive, that I felt as if standing in their living presence. Every + step called up some mind linked with the associations of my childhood. + There was the gentle feminine countenance of Thompson, and the majestic + head of Dryden; Addison with his classic features, and Gray, full of the + fire of lofty thought. In another chamber, I paused long before the ashes + of Shakspeare; and while looking at the monument of Garrick, started to + find that I stood upon his grave. What a glorious galaxy of genius is here + collected—what a constellation of stars whose light is immortal! The + mind is completely fettered by their spirit. Everything is forgotten but + the mighty dead, who still "rule us from their urns." + </p> + <p> + The Chapel of Henry VII., which we next entered, is one of the most + elaborate specimens of Gothic workmanship in the world. If the first idea + of the Gothic arch sprung from observing the forms of trees, this chapel + must resemble the first conceptions of that order, for the fluted columns + rise up like tall trees, branching out at the top into spreading capitals + covered with leaves, and supporting arches of the ceiling resembling a + leafy roof. + </p> + <p> + The side-chapels are filled with tombs of knightly families, the husband + and wife lying on their backs on the tombs, with their hands clasped, + while their children, about the size of dolls, are kneeling around. + Numberless are the Barons and Earls and Dukes, whose grim effigies stare + from their tombs. In opposite chapels are the tombs of Mary and Elizabeth, + and near the former that of Darnley. After having visited many of the + scenes of her life, it was with no ordinary emotion that I stood by the + sepulchre of Mary. How differently one looks upon it and upon that of the + proud Elizabeth! + </p> + <p> + We descended to the Chapel of Edward the Confessor, within the splendid + shrine of which repose his ashes. Here we were shown the chair on which + the English monarchs have been crowned for several hundred years, Under + the seat is the stone, brought from the Abbey of Scone, whereon the Kings + of Scotland were crowned. The chair is of oak, carved and hacked over with + names, and on the bottom some one has recorded his name with the fact + that, he once slept in it. We sat down and rested in it without ceremony. + Passing along an aisle leading to the grand hall, we saw the tomb of Aymer + de Valence, a knight of the Crusades. Near here is the hall where the + Knights of the order of Bath met. Over each seat their dusty banners are + still hanging, each with its crest, and their armor is rusting upon the + wall. It seemed like a banqueting hall of the olden time, where the + knights had left their seats for a moment vacant. Entering the nave, we + were lost in the wilderness of sculpture. Here stood the forms of Pitt, + Fox, Burke, Sheridan and Watts, from the chisels of Chantry, Bacon and + Westmacott. Further down were Sir Isaac Newton and Sir Godfrey Kneller—opposite + Andre, and Paoli, the Italian, who died here in exile. How can I convey an + idea of the scene? Notwithstanding all the descriptions I had read, I was + totally unprepared for the reality, nor could I have anticipated the + hushed and breathless interest with which I paced the dim aisles, gazing, + at every step, on the last resting place of some great and familiar name. + A place so sacred to all who inherit the English tongue, is worthy of a + special pilgrimage across the deep. To those who are unable to visit it, a + description may be interesting; but so far does it fall short of the scene + itself, that if I thought it would induce a few of our wealthy idlers, or + even those who, like myself, must travel with toil and privation to come + hither, I would write till the pen dropped from my hand. + </p> + <p> + More than twenty grand halls of the British Museum are devoted to + antiquities, and include the Elgin Marbles—the spoils of the + Parthenon—the Fellows Marbles, brought from the ancient city of + Xanthus, and Sir William Hamilton's collection of Italian antiquities. It + was painful to see the friezes of the Parthenon, broken and defaced as + they are, in such a place. Rather let them moulder to dust on the ruin + from which they were torn, shining through the blue veil of the Grecian + atmosphere, from the summit of the Acropolis! + </p> + <p> + The National Gallery, on Trafalgar Square, is open four days in the week, + to the public. The "Raising of Lazarus," by Sebastian del Piombo, is + considered the gem of the collection, but my unschooled eyes could not + view it as such. It is also remarkable for having been transferred from + wood to canvass, without injury. This delicate operation was accomplished + by gluing the panel on which it was painted, flat on a smooth table, and + planing the wood gradually away till the coat of hardened paint alone + remained. A proper canvass was then prepared, covered with a strong + cement, and laid on the back of the picture, which adhered firmly to it. + The owner's nerves must have had a severe trial, if he had courage to + watch the operation. I was enraptured with Murillo's pictures of St. John + and the Holy Family. St. John is represented as a boy in the woods, + fondling a lamb. It is a glorious head. The dark curls cluster around his + fair brow, and his eyes seem already glowing with the fire of future + inspiration. There is an innocence, a childish sweetness of expression in + the countenance, which makes one love to gaze upon it. Both of these + paintings wore constantly surrounded by ladies, and they certainly + deserved the preference. In the rooms devoted to English artists, there + are many of the finest works of West, Reynolds, Hogarth and Wilkie. + </p> + <p> + We spent a day in visiting the <i>lungs of London</i>, as the two grand + parks have been called. From the Strand through the Regent Circus, the + centre of the fashionable part of the city, we passed to Piccadilly, + culling on our way to see our old friends, the Iowas. They were at the + Egyptian Hall, in connexion with Catlin's Indian collection. The old + braves knew us at once, particularly Blister Feet, who used often to walk + a linweon deck with me, at sea. Further along Piccadilly is Wellington's + mansion of Apsley House, and nearly opposite it, in the corner of Hyde + Park, stands the colossal statue of Achilles, cast from cannon taken at + Salamanca and Vittoria. The Park resembles an open common, with here and + there a grove of trees, intersected by carriage roads, it is like getting + into the country again to be out on its broad, green field, with the city + seen dimly around through the smoky atmosphere. We walked for a mile or + two along the shady avenues and over the lawns, having a view of the + princely terraces and gardens on one hand, and the gentle outline of + Primrose Hill on the other. Regent's Park itself covers a space of nearly + four hundred acres! + </p> + <p> + But if London is unsurpassed in splendor, it has also its corresponding + share of crime. Notwithstanding the large and efficient body of police, + who do much towards the control of vice, one sees enough of degradation + and brutality in a short time, to make his heart sick. Even the public + thorough fares are thronged at night with characters of the lowest + description, and it is not expedient to go through many of the narrow + bye-haunts of the old city in the day-time. The police, who are ever on + the watch, immediately seize and carry off any offender, but from the + statements of persons who have had an opportunity of observing, as well as + from my own slight experience, I am convinced that there is an untold + amount of misery and crime. London is one of the wonders of the world, but + there is reason to believe it is one of the curses of the world also; + though, in fact, nothing but an active and unceasing philanthropy can + prevent any city from becoming so. + </p> + <p> + <i>Aug. 22.</i>—I have now been six days in London, and by making + good use of my feet and eyes, have managed to become familiar with almost + every object of interest within its precincts. Having a plan mapped out + for the day, I started from my humble lodgings at the Aldgate Coffee + House, where I slept off fatigue for a shilling a night, and walked up + Cheapside or down Whitechapel, as the case might be, hunting out my way to + churches, halls and theatres. In this way, at a trifling expense, I have + perhaps seen as much as many who spend here double the time and ten times + the money. Our whole tour from Liverpool hither, by way of Ireland and + Scotland, cost us but twenty-five dollars each! although, except in one or + two cases, we denied ourselves no necessary comfort. This shows that the + glorious privilege of looking on the scenes of the old world need not be + confined to people of wealth and leisure. It may be enjoyed by all who can + occasionally forego a little bodily comfort for the sake of mental and + spiritual gain. We leave this afternoon for Dover. Tomorrow I shall dine + in Belgium! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. — FLIGHT THROUGH BELGIUM. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Bruges.</i>—On the Continent at last! How strangely look the + century-old towers, antique monuments, and quaint, narrow streets of the + Flemish cities! It is an agreeable and yet a painful sense of novelty to + stand for the first time in the midst of a people whose language and + manners are different from one's own. The old buildings around, linked + with many a stirring association of past history, gratify the glowing + anticipations with which one has looked forward to seeing them, and the + fancy is busy at work reconciling the <i>real</i> scene with the <i>ideal</i>; + but the want of a communication with the living world about, walls one up + with a sense of loneliness he could not before have conceived. I envy the + children in the streets of Bruges their childish language. + </p> + <p> + Yesterday afternoon we came from London through the green wooded lawns and + vales of England, to Dover, which we reached at sunset, passing by a long + tunnel through the lofty Shakspeare Cliff. We had barely time before it + grew dark to ascend the cliff. The glorious coast view looked still wilder + in the gathering twilight, which soon hid from our sight the dim hills of + France. On the cliff opposite frowned the massive battlements of the + Castle, guarding the town, which lay in a nook of the rocks below. As the + Ostend boat was to leave at four in the morning, my cousin aroused us at + three, and we felt our way down stairs in the dark. But the landlord was + reluctant to part with us; we stamped and shouted and rang bells, till the + whole house was in an uproar, for the door was double-locked, and the + steamboat bell began to sound. At last he could stand it no longer; we + gave a quick utterance to our overflowing wrath, and rushed down to the + boat but a second or two before it left. + </p> + <p> + The water of the Channel was smooth as glass and as the sun rose, the far + chalky cliffs gleamed along the horizon, a belt of fire. I waved a + good-bye to Old England and then turned to see the spires of Dunkirk, + which were visible in the distance before us. On the low Belgian coast we + could see trees and steeples, resembling a mirage over the level surface + of the sea; at length, about ten o'clock, the square tower of Ostend came + in sight. The boat passed into a long muddy basin, in which many unwieldy, + red-sailed Dutch craft were lying, and stopped beside a high pier. Here + amid the confusion of three languages, an officer came on board and took + charge of our passports and luggage. As we could not get the former for + two or three hours, we did not hurry the passing of the latter, and went + on shore quite unincumbered, for a stroll about the city, disregarding the + cries of the hackney-coachmen on the pier, "<i>Hotel d'Angleterre</i>," "<i>Hotel + des Bains!</i>" and another who called out in English, "I recommend you to + the Royal Hotel, sir!" + </p> + <p> + There is little to be seen in Ostend. We wandered through long rows of + plain yellow houses, trying to read the French and low Dutch signs, and at + last came out on the wall near the sea. A soldier motioned us back as we + attempted to ascend it, and muttering some unintelligible words, pointed + to a narrow street near. Following this out of curiosity, we crossed the + moat and found ourselves on the great bathing beach. To get out of the + hands of the servants who immediately surrounded us, we jumped into one of + the little wagons and were driven out into the surf. + </p> + <p> + To be certain of fulfilling the railroad regulations, we took our seats + quarter of an hour before the time. The dark walls of Ostend soon vanished + and we were whirled rapidly over a country perfectly level, but highly + fertile and well cultivated. Occasionally there was a ditch or row of + trees, but otherwise there was no division between the fields, and the + plain stretched unbroken away into the distance. The twenty miles to + Bruges we made in forty minutes. The streets of this antique city are + narrow and crooked, and the pointed, ornamented gables of the houses, + produce a novel impression on one who has been accustomed to the green + American forests. Then there was the endless sound of wooden shoes + clattering over the rough pavements, and people talking in that most + unmusical of all languages, low Dutch. Walking at random through the + streets, we came by chance upon the Cathedral of Notre Dame. I shall long + remember my first impression of the scene within. The lofty gothic ceiling + arched far above my head and through the stained windows the light came + but dimly—it was all still, solemn and religious. A few worshippers + were kneeling in silence before some of the shrines and the echo of my + tread seemed like a profaning sound. On every side were pictures, saints + gilded shrines. A few steps removed one from the bustle and din of the + crowd to the stillness and solemnity of the holy retreat. + </p> + <p> + We learned from the guide, whom we had engaged because he spoke a few + words of English, that there was still a <i>treckshuyt</i> line on the + canals, and that one boat leaves to-night at ten o'clock for Ghent. + Wishing to try this old Dutch method of travelling, he took us about half + a mile along the Ghent road to the canal, where a moderate sized boat was + lying. Our baggage deposited in the plainly furnished cabin, I ran back to + Bruges, although it was beginning to grow dark, to get a sight of the + belfry; for Longfellow's lines had been running through my head all day: + </p> + <p> + "In the market place of Bruges, stands the belfry old and brown, Thrice + consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town." + </p> + <p> + And having found the square, brown tower in one corner of the open market + square, we waited to hear the chimes, which are said to be the finest in + Europe. They rang out at last with a clear silvery tone, most beautifully + musical indeed. We then returned to the boat in the twilight. We were to + leave in about an hour, according to the arrangement, but as yet there was + no sound to be heard, and we were the only tenants. However, trusting to + Dutch regularity, we went to sleep in the full confidence of awakening in + Ghent. + </p> + <p> + I awoke once in the night and saw the dark branches of trees passing + before the window, but there was no perceptible sound nor motion; the boat + glided along like a dream, and we were awakened next morning by its + striking against the pier at Ghent. After paying three francs for the + whole night journey, the captain gave us a guide to the railroad station, + and as we had nearly an hour before the train left, I went to see the + Cathedral of St. Bavon. After leaving Ghent, the road passes through a + beautiful country, cultivated like a garden. The Dutch passion for flowers + is displayed in the gardens around the cottages; even every vacant foot of + ground along the railway is planted with roses and dahlias. At Ghent, the + morning being fair, we took seats in the open cars. About noon it + commenced raining and our situation was soon anything but comfortable. My + cousin had fortunately a water-proof Indian blanket with him, which he had + purchased in the "Far West," and by wrapping this around all three of us, + we kept partly dry. I was much amused at the plight of a party of young + Englishmen, who were in the same car; one of them held a little parasol + which just covered his hat, and sent the water in streams down on his back + and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + We had a misty view of Liege, through the torrents of rain, and then + dashed away into the wild, mountain scenery of the Meuse. Steep, rocky + hills, covered with pine and crowned with ruined towers, hemmed in the + winding and swollen river, and the wet, cloudy sky seemed to rest like a + canopy on their summits. Instead of threading their mazy defiles, we + plunged directly into the mountain's heart, flew over the narrow valley on + lofty and light-sprung arches, and went again into the darkness. At + Verviers, our baggage was weighed, examined and transferred, with + ourselves, to a Prussian train. There was a great deal of disputing on the + occasion. A lady, who had a dog in a large willow basket, was not allowed + to retain it, nor would they take it as baggage. The matter was finally + compromised by their sending the basket, obliging her to carry the dog, + which was none of the smallest, in her arms! The next station bore the + sign of the black eagle, and here our passports were obliged to be given + up. Advancing through long ranges of wooded hills, we saw at length, in + the dull twilight of a rainy day, the old kingly city of Aix la Chapelle + on a plain below us. After a scene at the custom-house, where our baggage + was reclaimed with tickets given at Verviers, we drove to the <i>Hotel du + Rhin</i>, and while warming our shivering limbs and drying our damp + garments, felt tempted to exclaim with the old Italian author: "O! holy + and miraculous tavern!" + </p> + <p> + The Cathedral with its lofty Gothic tower, was built by the emperor Otho + in the tenth century. It seems at present to be undergoing repairs, for a + large scaffold shut out the dome. The long hall was dim with incense smoke + as we entered, and the organ sounded through the high arches with an + effect that startled me. The windows glowed with the forms of kings and + saints, and the dusty and mouldering shrines which rose around were + colored with the light that came through. The music pealed out like a + triumphal march, sinking at times into a mournful strain, as if it + celebrated and lamented the heroes who slept below. In the stone pavement + nearly under my feet was a large square marble slab, with words "CAROLO + MAGNO." It was like a dream, to stand there on the tomb of the mighty + warrior, with the lofty arches of the Cathedral above, filled with the + sound of the divine anthem. I mused above his ashes till the music ceased + and then left the Cathedral, that nothing might break the romantic spell + associated with that crumbling pile and the dead it covered. I have always + revered the memory of Charlemagne. He lived in a stern age, but he was in + mind and heart a man, and like Napoleon, who placed the iron crown which + had lain with him centuries in the tomb, upon his own brow, he had an + Alpine grandeur of mind, which the world was forced to acknowledge. + </p> + <p> + At noon we took the <i>chars-à-banc</i>, or second-class carriages, for + fear of rain, and continued our journey over a plain dotted with villages + and old chateaux. Two or three miles from Cologne we saw the spires of the + different churches, conspicuous among which were the unfinished towers of + the Cathedral, with the enormous crane standing as it did when they left + off building, two hundred years ago or more. On arriving, we drove to the + Bonn railway, where finding the last train did not leave for four hours, + we left our baggage and set out for the Cathedral. Of all Gothic + buildings, the plan of this is certainly the most stupendous; even ruin as + it is, it cannot fail to excite surprise and admiration. The King of + Prussia has undertaken to complete it according to the original plan, + which was lately found in the possession of a poor man, of whom it was + purchased for 40,000 florins, but he has not yet finished repairing what + is already built. The legend concerning this plan may not be known to + every one. It is related of the inventor of it, that in despair of finding + any sufficiently great, he was walking one day by the river, sketching + with his stick upon the sand, when he finally hit upon one which pleased + him so much that he exclaimed: "This shall be the plan!" "I will show you + a better one than that!" said a voice suddenly behind him, and a certain + black gentleman who figures in all German legends stood by him, and pulled + from his pocket a roll containing the present plan of the Cathedral. The + architect, amazed at its grandeur, asked an explanation of every part. As + he knew his soul was to be the price of it, he occupied himself while the + devil was explaining, in committing its proportions carefully to memory. + Having done this, he remarked that it did not please him and he would not + take it. The devil, seeing through the cheat, exclaimed in his rage: "You + may build your Cathedral according to this plan, but you shall never + finish it!" This prediction seems likely to be verified, for though it was + commenced in 1248, and built for 250 years, only the choir and nave and + one tower to half its original height, are finished. + </p> + <p> + We visited the chapel of the eleven thousand virgins, the walls of which + are full of curious grated cells, containing their bones, and then + threaded the narrow streets of Cologne, which are quite dirty enough to + justify Coleridge's lines: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The river Rhine, it is well known + Doth wash the city of Cologne; + But tell me nymphs, what power divine + Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine!" +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. — THE RHINE TO HEIDELBERG. + </h2> + <p> + HEIDELBERG, August 30. Here at last! and a most glorious place it is. This + is our first morning in our new rooms, and the sun streams warmly in the + eastern windows, as I write, while the old castle rises through the blue + vapor on the side of the Kaiser-stuhl. The Neckar rushes on below; and the + Odenwald, before, me, rejoices with its vineyards in the morning light. + The bells of the old chapel near us are sounding most musically, and a + confused sound of voices and the rolling of vehicles comes up from the + street. It is a place to live in! + </p> + <p> + I must go back five or six days and take up the record of our journeyings + at Bonn. We had been looking over Murray's infallible "Handbook," and + observed that he recommended the "Star" hotel in that city, as "the most + moderate in its prices of any on the Rhine;" so when the train from + Cologne arrived and we were surrounded, in the darkness and confusion, by + porters and valets, I sung out: "<i>Hotel de l'Etoile d'or!</i>" our + baggage and ourselves were transferred to a stylish omnibus, and in five + minutes we stopped under a brilliantly-lighted archway, where Mr. Joseph + Schmidt received us with the usual number of smiles and bows bestowed upon + untitled guests. We were furnished with neat rooms in the summit of the + house, and then descended to the <i>salle à manger</i>. I found a folded + note by my plate, which I opened—it contained an engraving of the + front of the hotel, a plan of the city and catalogue of its lions, + together with a list of the titled personages who have, from time to time, + honored the "Golden Star" with their custom. Among this number were "Their + Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Prince Albert," etc. + Had it not been for fatigue, I should have spent an uneasy night, thinking + of the heavy bill which was to be presented on the morrow. We escaped, + however, for seven francs apiece, three of which were undoubtedly for the + honor of breathing an aristocratic atmosphere. + </p> + <p> + I was glad when we were really in motion on the swift Rhine, the next + morning, and nearing the chain of mountains that rose up before us. We + passed Godesberg on the right, while on our left was the group of the + seven mountains which extend back from the Drachenfels to the Wolkenberg, + or Castle of the Clouds. Here we begin to enter the enchanted land. The + Rhine sweeps around the foot of the Drachenfels, while opposite the + precipitous rock of Rolandseek, crowned with the castle of the faithful + knight, looks down upon the beautiful Island of Nonnenwerth, the white + walls of the convent still gleaming through the trees, as they did when + the warrior's weary eyes looked upon them for the last time. I shall never + forget the enthusiasm with which I saw this scene in the bright, warm + sunlight, the rough crags softened in the haze which filled the + atmosphere, and the wild mountains springing up in the midst of vineyards, + and crowned with crumbling towers, filled with the memories of a thousand + years. + </p> + <p> + After passing Andernach, we saw in the distance the highlands of the + middle Rhine, which rise above Coblentz, guarding the entrance to its wild + scenery, and the mountains of the Moselle. They parted as we approached; + from the foot shot up the spires of Coblentz, and the battlements of + Ehrenbreitstein crowning the mountain opposite, grew larger and broader. + The air was slightly hazy, and the clouds seemed laboring among the + distant mountains to raise a storm. As we came opposite the mouth of the + Moselle and under the shadow of the mighty fortress, I gazed up with awe + at its massive walls. Apart from its magnitude and almost impregnable + situation on a perpendicular rock, it is filled with the recollections of + history and hallowed by the voice of poetry. The scene went past like a + panorama, the bridge of boats opened, the city glided behind us and we + entered the highlands again. + </p> + <p> + Above Coblentz almost every mountain has a ruin and a legend. One feels + everywhere the spirit of the past, and its stirring recollections come + back upon the mind with irresistible force. I sat upon the deck the whole + afternoon, as mountains, towns and castles passed by on either side, + watching them with a feeling of the most enthusiastic enjoyment. Every + place was familiar to me in memory, and they seemed like friends I had + long communed with in spirit and now met face to face. The English + tourists, with whom the deck was covered, seemed interested too, but in a + different manner. With Murray's Handbook open in their hands, they sat and + read about the very towns and towers they were passing, scarcely lifting + their eyes to the real scenes, except now and then, to observe that it was + "<i>very nice</i>." + </p> + <p> + As we passed Boppart, I sought out the Inn of the "Star," mentioned in + "Hyperion"; there was a maiden sitting on the steps who might have been + Paul Flemming's fair boat-woman. The clouds which had here gathered among + the hills, now came over the river, and the rain cleared the deck of its + crowd of admiring tourists. As we were approaching Lurlei Berg, I did not + go below, and so enjoyed some of the finest scenery on the Rhine alone. + The mountains approach each other at this point, and the Lurlei Rock rises + up for six hundred feet from the water. This is the haunt of the water + nymph, Lurlei, whose song charmed the ear of the boatman while his barque + was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. It is also celebrated for its + remarkable echo. As we passed between the rocks, a guard, who has a little + house built on the road-side, blew a flourish on his bugle, which was + instantly answered by a blast from the rocky battlements of Lurlei. The + German students have a witty trick with this echo: they call out, "Who is + the Burgomaster of Oberwesel?" a town just above. The echo answers with + the last syllable "Esel!" which is the German for <i>ass</i>. + </p> + <p> + The sun came out of the cloud as we passed Oberwesel, with its tall round + tower, and the light shining through the ruined arches of Schonberg + castle, made broad bars of light and shade in the still misty air. A + rainbow sprang up out of the Rhine, and lay brightly on the mountain side, + coloring vineyard and crag, in the most singular beauty, while its second + reflection faintly arched like a glory above the high summits. In the bed + of the river were the seven countesses of Schonberg, turned into seven + rocks for their cruelty and hard-heartedness towards the knights whom + their beauty had made captive. In front, at a little distance was the + castle of Pfalz, in the middle of the river, and from the heights above + Caub frowned the crumbling citadel of Gutenfels. Imagine all this, and + tell me if it is not a picture whose memory should last a life-time! + </p> + <p> + We came at last to Bingen, the southern gate of the Highlands. Here, on an + island in the middle of the stream, is the old Mouse tower where Bishop + Hatto of Mayence was eaten up by the rats for his wicked deeds. Passing + Rudesheim and Geissenheim, celebrated for their wines, at sunset, we + watched the varied shore in the growing darkness, till like a line of + stars across the water, we saw before us the bridge of Mayence. + </p> + <p> + The next morning I parted from my friends, who were going to Heidelberg by + way of Mannheim, and set out alone for Frankfort. The cars passed through + Hochheim, whose wines are celebrated all over the world; there is little + to interest the traveler till he arrives at Frankfort, whose spires are + seen rising from groves of trees as he approaches. I left the cars, + unchallenged for my passport, greatly to my surprise, as it had cost me a + long walk and five shillings in London, to get the signature of the + Frankfort Consul. I learned afterwards it was not at all necessary. Before + leaving America, N.P. Willis had kindly given me a letter to his brother, + Richard S. Willis, who is now cultivating a naturally fine taste for music + in Frankfort, and my first care was to find the American Consul, in order + to learn his residence. I discovered at last, from a gentleman who spoke a + little French, that the Consul's office was in the street <i>Bellevue</i>, + which street I not only looked for through the city, but crossed over the + bridge to the suburb of Sachsenhausen, and traversed its narrow, dirty + alleys three several times, but in vain. I was about giving up the search, + when I stumbled upon the office accidentally. The name of the street had + been given to me in French and very naturally it was not to be found. + Willis received me very kindly and introduced me to the amiable German + family with whom he resides. + </p> + <p> + After spending a delightful evening with my newly-found friends, I left + the next morning in the omnibus for Heidelberg. We passed through + Sachsenhausen and ascended a long hill to the watch-tower, whence there is + a beautiful view of the Main valley. Four hours' driving over the + monotonous plain, brought me to Darmstadt. The city wore a gay look, left + by the recent <i>fêtes</i>. The monument of the old Duke Ludwig had just + been erected in the centre of the great square, and the festival attendant + upon the unveiling of it, which lasted three days, had just closed. The + city was hung with garlands, and the square filled with the pavilions of + the royal family and the musicians, of whom there were a thousand present, + while everywhere were seen red and white flags—the colors of + Darmstadt. We met wagons decorated with garlands, full of pleasant girls, + in the odd dress which they have worn for three hundred years. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Darmstadt we entered upon the Bergstrasse, or Mountain-way, + leading along the foot of the mountain chain which extends all the way to + Heidelberg on the left, while on the right stretches far away the + Rhine-plain, across which we saw the dim outline of the Donnersberg, in + France. The hills are crowned with castles and their sides loaded with + vines; along the road the rich green foliage of the walnut trees arched + and nearly met above us. The sun shone warm and bright, and every body + appeared busy and contented and happy. All we met had smiling + countenances. In some places we saw whole families sitting under the trees + shelling the nuts they had beaten down, while others were returning from + the vineyards, laden with baskets of purple and white grapes. The scene + seemed to realize all I had read of the happiness of the German peasantry, + and the pastoral beauty of the German plains. + </p> + <p> + With the passengers in the omnibus I could hold little conversation. One, + who knew about as much French as I did, asked me where I came from, and I + shall not soon forget his expression of incredulity, as I mentioned + America. "Why," said he, "you are white—the Americans are all + black!" + </p> + <p> + We passed the ruined castles of Auerback and Starkenburg, and Burg + Windeck, on the summit of a mountain near Weinheim, formerly one of the + royal residences of Charlemagne, and finally came to the Heiligenberg or + Holy Mountain, guarding the entrance into the Odenwald by the valley of + the Neckar. As we wound around its base to the river, the Kaiserstuhl rose + before us, with the mighty castle hanging upon its side and Heidelberg at + its feet. It was a most strikingly beautiful scene, and for a moment I + felt inclined to assent to the remark of my bad-French acquaintance—"America + is not beautiful—Heidelberg is beautiful!" The sun had just set as + we turned the corner of the Holy Mountain and drove up the bank of the + Neckar; all the chimes of Heidelberg began suddenly to ring and a cannon + by the riverside was fired off every minute—the sound echoing five + times distinctly from mountain back to mountain, and finally crashing far + off, along the distant hills of the Odenwald. It was the birthday of the + Grand Duke of Baden, and these rejoicings were for the closing <i>fête</i>. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. — SCENES IN AND AROUND HEIDELBERG. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Sept. 30.</i>—There is so much to be seen around this beautiful + place, that I scarcely know where to begin a description of it. I have + been wandering among the wild paths that lead up and down the mountain + side, or away into the forests and lonely meadows in the lap of the + Odenwald. My mind is filled with images of the romantic German scenery, + whose real beauty is beginning to displace the imaginary picture which I + had painted with the enthusiastic words of Howitt. I seem to stand now + upon the Kaiser-stuhl, which rises above Heidelberg, with that magnificent + landscape around me, from the Black Forest and Strasburg to Mainz, and + from the Vosges in France to the hills of Spessart in Bavaria. What a + glorious panorama! and not less rich in associations than in its natural + beauty. Below me had moved the barbarian hordes of old, the triumphant + followers of Arminius, and the Cohorts of Rome; and later, full many a + warlike host bearing the banners of the red cross to the Holy Land,—many + a knight returning with his vassals from the field, to lay at the feet of + his lady-love the scarf he had worn in a hundred battles and claim the + reward of his constancy and devotion. But brighter spirits had also toiled + below. That plain had witnessed the presence of Luther, and a host who + strove with him to free the world from the chains of a corrupt and + oppressive religion. There had also trodden the master spirits of German + song—the giant twain, with their scarcely less harmonious brethren: + they, too, had gathered inspiration from those scenes—more fervent + worship of nature and a deeper love for their beautiful fatherland! Oh! + what waves of crime and bloodshed have swept like the waves of a deluge + down the valley of the Rhine! War has laid his mailed hand on those + desolate towers and ruthlessly torn down what time has spared, yet he + could not mar the beauty of the shore, nor could Time himself hurl down + the mountains that guard it. And what if I feel a new inspiration on + beholding the scene? Now that those ages have swept by, like the red waves + of a tide of blood, we see not the darkened earth, but the golden sands + which the flood has left behind. Besides, I have come from a new world, + where the spirit of man is untrammeled by the mouldering shackles of the + past, but in its youthful and joyous freedom, goes on to make itself a + noble memory for the ages that are to come! + </p> + <p> + Then there is the Wolfsbrunnen, which one reaches by a beautiful walk up + the bank of the Neckar, to a quiet dell in the side of the mountain. + Through this the roads lead up by rustic mills, always in motion, and + orchards laden with ripening fruit, to the commencement of the forest, + where a quaint stone fountain stands, commemorating the abode of a + sorceress of the olden time, who was torn in pieces by a wolf. There is a + handsome rustic inn here, where every Sunday afternoon a band plays in the + portico, while hundreds of people are scattered around in the cool shadow + of the trees, or feeding the splendid trout in the basin formed by the + little stream. They generally return to the city by another walk leading + along the mountain side, to the eastern terrace of the castle, where they + have fine views of the great Rhine plain, terminated by the Alsatian + hills, stretching along the western horizon like the long crested swells + on the ocean. We can even see these from the windows of our room on the + bank of the Neckar; and I often look with interest on one sharp peak, for + on its side stands the Castle of Trifels, where Coeur de Lion was + imprisoned by the Duke of Austria, and where Blondel, his faithful + minstrel, sang the ballad which discovered the retreat of the noble + captive. + </p> + <p> + The people of Heidelberg are rich in places of pleasure and amusement. + From the Carl Platz, an open square at the upper end of the city, two + paths lead directly up to the castle. By the first walk we ascend a flight + of steps to the western gate, passing through which, we enter a delightful + garden, between the outer walls of the Castle, and the huge moat which + surrounds it. Great linden, oak and beech trees shadow the walk, and in + secluded nooks, little mountain streams spring from the side of the wall + into stone basins. There is a tower over the moat on the south side, next + the mountain, where the portcullis still hangs with its sharp teeth as it + was last drawn up; on each side stand two grim knights guarding the + entrance. In one of the wooded walks is an old tree brought from America + in the year 1618. It is of the kind called <i>arbor vitæ</i>, and + uncommonly tall and slender for one of this species; yet it does not seem + to thrive well in a foreign soil. I noticed that persons had cut many + slips off the lower branches, and I would have been tempted to do the same + myself if there had been any I could reach. In the curve of the mountain + is a handsome pavilion, surrounded with beds of flowers and fountains; + here all classes meet together in the afternoon to sit with their + refreshments in the shade, while frequently a fine band of music gives + them their invariable recreation. All this, with the scenery around them, + leaves nothing unfinished to their present enjoyment. The Germans enjoy + life under all circumstances, and in this way they make themselves much + happier than we, who have far greater means of being so. + </p> + <p> + At the end of the terrace built for the princess Elizabeth, of England, is + one of the round towers, which was split in twain by the French. Half has + fallen entirely away, and the other semicircular shell which joins the + terrace and part of the Castle buildings, clings firmly together, although + part of its foundation is gone, so that its outer ends actually hang in + the air. Some idea of the strength of the castle may be obtained when I + state that the walls of this tower are twenty-two feet thick, and that a + staircase has been made through them to the top, where one can sit under + the lindens growing upon it, or look down from the end on the city below + with the pleasant consciousness that the great mass upon which he stands + is only prevented from crashing down with him by the solidity of its + masonry. On one side, joining the garden, the statue of the Archduke + Louis, in his breastplate and flowing beard, looks out from among the ivy. + </p> + <p> + There is little to be seen about the Castle except the walls themselves. + The guide conducted us through passages, in which were heaped many of the + enormous cannon balls which it had received in sieges, to some chambers in + the foundation. This was the oldest part of the Castle, built in the + thirteenth century. We also visited the chapel, which is in a tolerable + state of preservation. A kind of narrow bridge crosses it, over which we + walked, looking down on the empty pulpit and deserted shrines. We then + went into the cellar to see the celebrated Tun. In a large vault are kept + several enormous hogsheads, one of which is three hundred years old, but + they are nothing in comparison with the tun, which itself fills a whole + vault. It is as high as a common two story house; on the top is a platform + upon which the people used to dance after it was filled, to which one + ascends by two flights of steps. I forgot exactly how many casks it holds, + but I believe eight hundred. It has been empty for fifty years. + </p> + <p> + We are very pleasantly situated here. My friends, who arrived a day before + me, hired three rooms (with the assistance of a courier) in a large house + on the banks of the Neckar. We pay for them, with attendance, thirty + florins—about twelve dollars—a month, and Frau Dr. Grosch, our + polite and talkative landlady, gives us a student's breakfast—coffee + and biscuit—for about seven cents apiece. We are often much amused + to hear her endeavors to make us understand. As if to convey her meaning + plainer, she raises both thumbs and forefingers to her mouth and pulls out + the words like a long string; her tongue goes so fast that it keeps my + mind always on a painful stretch to comprehend an idea here and there. Dr. + S——, from whom we take lessons in German, has kindly consented + to our dining with his family for the sake of practice in speaking. We + have taken several long walks with them along the banks of the Neckar, but + I should be puzzled to repeat any of the conversations that took place. + The language, however, is fast growing more familiar, since <i>women</i> + are the principal teachers. + </p> + <p> + Opposite my window rises the Heiligenberg, on the other side of the + Neckar. The lower part of it is rich with vineyards, and many cottages + stand embosomed in shrubbery among them. Sometimes we see groups of + maidens standing under the grape arbors, and every morning the peasant + women go toiling up the steep paths with baskets on their heads, to labor + among the vines. On the Neckar below us, the fishermen glide about in + their boats, sink their square nets fastened to a long pole, and haul them + up with the glittering fish, of which the stream is full. I often lean out + of the window late at night, when the mountains above are wrapped in dusky + obscurity, and listen to the low, musical ripple of the river. It tells to + my excited fancy a knightly legend of the old German time. Then comes the + bell, rung for closing the inns, breaking the spell with its deep clang, + which vibrates far away on the night air, till it has roused all the + echoes of the Odenwald. I then shut the window, turn into the narrow box + which the Germans call a bed, and in a few minutes am wandering in + America. Half way up the Heiligenberg runs a beautiful walk, dividing the + vineyards from the forest above. This is called the Philosopher's Way, + because it was the favorite ramble of the old Professors of the + University. It can be reached by a toilsome, winding path among the vines, + called the Snake-way, and when one has ascended to it he is well rewarded + by the lovely view. In the evening, when the sun has got behind the + mountain, it is delightful to sit on the stone steps and watch the golden + light creeping up the side of the Kaiser-stuhl, till at last twilight + begins to darken in the valley and a mantle of mist gathers above the + Neckar. + </p> + <p> + We ascended the mountain a few days ago. There is a path which leads up + through the forest, but we took the shortest way, directly up the side, + though it was at an angle of nearly fifty degrees. It was hard enough + work, scrambling through the thick broom and heather, and over stumps and + stones. In one of the stone-heaps I dislodged a large orange-colored + salamander, seven or eight inches long. They are sometimes found on these + mountains, as well as a very large kind of lizard, called the <i>eidechse</i>, + which the Germans say is perfectly harmless, and if one whistles or plays + a pipe, will come and play around him. The view from the top reminded me + of that from Catskill Mountain House, but is on a smaller scale. The + mountains stretch off sideways, confining the view to but half the + horizon, and in the middle of the picture the Hudson is well represented + by the lengthened windings of the "abounding Rhine." Nestled at the base + below us, was the little village of Handschuhheim, one of the oldest in + this part of Germany. The castle of its former lords has nearly all fallen + down, but the massive solidity of the walls which yet stand, proves its + antiquity. A few years ago, a part of the outer walls which was remarked + to have a hollow sound, was taken down, when there fell from a deep niche + built therein, a skeleton, clad in a suit of the old German armor. We + followed a road through the woods to the peak on which stand the ruins of + St. Michael's chapel, which was built in the tenth century and inhabited + for a long time by a sect of white monks. There is now but a single tower + remaining, and all around is grown over with tall bushes and weeds. It had + a wild and romantic look, and I sat on a rock and sketched at it, till it + grew dark, when we got down the mountain the best way we could. + </p> + <p> + We lately visited the great University Library. You walk through one hall + after another, filled with books of all kinds, from the monkish manuscript + of the middle ages, to the most elegant print of the present day. There is + something to me more impressive in a library like this than a solemn + Cathedral. I think involuntarily of the hundreds of mighty spirits who + speak from these three hundred thousand volumes—of the toils and + privations with which genius has ever struggled, and of his glorious + reward. As in a church, one feels as it were, the presence of God; not + because the place has been hallowed by his worship, but because all around + stand the inspirations of his spirit, breathed through the mind of genius, + to men. And if the mortal remains of saints and heroes do not repose + within its walls, the great and good of the whole earth are there, + speaking their counsels to the searcher for truth, with voices whose last + reverberation will die away only when the globe falls into ruin. + </p> + <p> + A few nights ago there was a wedding of peasants across the river. In + order to celebrate it particularly, the guests went to the house where it + was given, by torchlight. The night was quite dark, and the bright red + torches glowed on the surface of the Neckar, as the two couriers galloped + along the banks to the bridegroom's house. Here, after much shouting and + confusion, the procession was arranged, the two riders started back again + with their torches, and the wagons containing the guests followed after + with their flickering lights glancing on the water, till they disappeared + around the foot of the mountain. The choosing of Conscripts also took + place lately. The law requires one person out of every hundred to become a + soldier, and this, in the city of Heidelberg, amounts to nearly 150. It + was a sad spectacle. The young men, or rather boys, who were chosen, went + about the city with cockades fastened on their hats, shouting and singing, + many of them quite intoxicated. I could not help pitying them because of + the dismal, mechanical life they are doomed to follow. Many were rough, + ignorant peasants, to whom nearly any kind of life would be agreeable; but + there were some whose countenances spoke otherwise, and I thought + involuntarily, that their drunken gaiety was only affected to conceal + their real feelings with regard to the lot which had fallen upon them. + </p> + <p> + We are gradually becoming accustomed to the German style of living, which + is very different from our own. Their cookery is new to us, but is, + nevertheless, good. We have every day a different kind of soup, so I have + supposed they keep a regular list of three hundred and sixty-five, one for + every day in the year! Then we have potatoes "done up" in oil and vinegar, + veal flavored with orange peel, barley pudding, and all sorts of pancakes, + boiled artichokes, and always rye bread, in loaves a yard long! + Nevertheless, we thrive on such diet, and I have rarely enjoyed more sound + and refreshing sleep than in their narrow and coffin-like beds, + uncomfortable as they seem. Many of the German customs are amusing. We + never see oxen working here, but always cows, sometimes a single one in a + cart, and sometimes two fastened together by a yoke across their horns. + The women labor constantly in the fields; from our window we can hear the + nut-brown maidens singing their cheerful songs among the vineyards on the + mountain side. Their costume, too, is odd enough. Below the light-fitting + vest they wear such a number of short skirts, one above another, that it + reminds one of an animated hogshead, with a head and shoulders starting + out from the top. I have heard it gravely asserted that the wealth of a + German damsel may be known by counting the number of her "kirtles." An + acquaintance of mine remarked, that it would be an excellent costume for + falling down a precipice! + </p> + <p> + We have just returned from a second visit to Frankfort, where the great + annual fair filled the streets with noise and bustle. On our way back, we + stopped at the village of Zwingenberg, which lies at the foot of the + Melibochus, for the purpose of visiting some of the scenery of the + Odenwald. Passing the night at the inn there, we slept with one bed under + and two above, and started early in the morning to climb up the side of + the Melibochus. After a long walk through the forests, which were + beginning to change their summer foliage for a brighter garment, we + reached the summit and ascended the stone tower which stands upon it. This + view gives one a better idea of the Odenwald, than that from the + Kaiser-stuhl at Heidelberg. In the soft autumn atmosphere it looked even + more beautiful. After an hour in that heaven of uplifted thought, into + which we step from the mountain-top, our minds went with the path downward + to earth, and we descended the eastern side into the wild region which + contains the <i>Felsenmeer</i>, or Sea of Rocks. + </p> + <p> + We met on the way a student from Fulda—a fine specimen of that + free-spirited class, and a man whose smothered aspiration was betrayed in + the flashing of his eye, as he spoke of the present painful and oppressed + condition of Germany. We talked so busily together that without noticing + the path, which had been bringing us on, up hill and down, through forest + and over rock, we came at last to a halt in a valley among the mountains. + Making inquiries there, we found we had gone wrong, and must ascend by a + different path the mountain we had just come down. Near the summit of + this, in a wild pine wood, was the Felsenmeer—a great collection of + rocks heaped together like pebbles on the sea shore, and worn and rounded + as if by the action of water: so much do they resemble waves, that one + standing at the bottom and looking up, cannot resist the idea, that they + will flow down upon him. It must have been a mighty tide whose receding + waves left these masses piled up together! The same formation continues at + intervals, to the foot, of the mountains. It reminded me of a <i>glacier</i> + of rocks instead of ice. A little higher up, lies a massive block of + granite called the "Giant's Column." It is thirty-two feet long and three + to four feet in diameter, and still bears the mark of the chisel. When or + by whom it was made, remains a mystery. Some have supposed it was intended + to be erected for the worship of the Sun, by the wild Teutonic tribes who + inhabited this forest; it is more probably the work of the Romans. A + project was once started, to erect it as a monument on the battle-field of + Leipsic, but it was found too difficult to carry into execution. + </p> + <p> + After dining at the little village of Reichelsdorf in the valley below, + where the merry landlord charged my friend two kreutzers less than myself + because he was not so tall, we visited the Castle of Schönberg, and joined + the Bergstrasse again. We walked the rest of the way here; long before we + arrived, the moon shone down on us over the mountains, and when we turned + around the foot of the Heiligenberg, the mist descending in the valley of + the Neckar, rested like a light cloud on the church spires. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. — A WALK THROUGH THE ODENWALD. + </h2> + <p> + B—— and I are now comfortably settled in Frankfort, having, + with Mr. Willis's kind assistance, obtained lodgings with the amiable + family, with whom he has resided for more than two years. My cousin + remains in Heidelberg to attend the winter course of lectures at the + University. + </p> + <p> + Having forwarded our baggage by the omnibus, we came hither on foot, + through the heart of the Odenwald, a region full of interest, yet little + visited by travellers. Dr. S—— and his family walked with us + three or four miles of the way, and on a hill above Ziegelhausen, with a + splendid view behind us, through the mountain-door, out of which the + Neckar enters on the Rhine-plain, we parted. This was a first, and I must + confess, a somewhat embarrassing experience in German leave-taking. After + bidding adieu three or four times, we started to go up the mountain and + they down it, but at every second step we had to turn around to + acknowledge the waving of hands and handkerchiefs, which continued so long + that I was glad when we were out of sight of each other. We descended on + the other side into a wild and romantic valley, whose meadows were of the + brightest green; a little brook which wound through them, put now and then + its "silvery shoulder" to the wheel of a rustic mill. By the road-side two + or three wild-looking gipsies sat around a fire, with some goats feeding + near them. + </p> + <p> + Passing through this valley and the little village of Schönau, we + commenced ascending one of the loftiest ranges of the Odenwald. The side + of the mountain was covered with a thick pine forest. There was no wind to + wake its solemn anthem; all was calm and majestic, and even awful. The + trees rose all around like the pillars of a vast Cathedral, whose long + arched aisles vanished far below in the deepening gloom. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Nature with folded hands seemed there, + Kneeling at her evening prayer," +</pre> + <p> + for twilight had already begun to gather. We went on and up and ever + higher, like the youth in "Excelsior;" the beech and dwarf oak took the + place of the pine, and at last we arrived at a cleared summit whose long + brown grass waved desolately in the dim light of evening. A faint glow + still lingered over the forest-hills, but down in the valley the dusky + shades hid every vestige of life, though its sounds came up softened + through the long space. When we reached the top a bright planet stood like + a diamond over the brow of the eastern hill, and the sound of a twilight + bell came up clearly and sonorously on the cool damp air. The white veil + of mist slowly descended down the mountain side, but the peaks rose above + it like the wrecks of a world, floating in space. We made our way in the + dusk down the long path, to the rude little dorf of Elsbach. I asked at + the first inn for lodging, where we were ushered into a great room, in + which a number of girls who had been at work in the fields, were + assembled. They were all dressed in men's jackets, and short gowns, and + some had their hair streaming down their back. The landlord's daughter, + however, was a beautiful girl, whose modest, delicate features contrasted + greatly with the coarse faces of the others. I thought of Uhland's + beautiful little poem of "The Landlady's Daughter," as I looked on her. In + the room hung two or three pair of antlers, and they told us deer were + still plenty in the forests. + </p> + <p> + When we left the village the next morning, we again commenced ascending. + Over the whole valley and halfway up the mountain, lay a thick white + frost, almost like snow, which contrasted with the green trees and bushes + scattered over the meadows, produced the most singular effect. We plucked + blackberries ready iced from the bushes by the road-side, and went on in + the cold, for the sun shone only on the top of the opposite mountain, into + another valley, down which rushed the rapid Ulver. At a little village + which bears the beautiful name <i>Anteschönmattenwag</i>, we took a + foot-path directly over a steep mountain to the village of Finkenbach. + Near the top I found two wild-looking children, cutting grass with knives, + both of whom I prevailed upon for a few kreutzers to stand and let me + sketch them. From the summit the view on the other side was very striking. + The hills were nearly every one covered with wood, and not a dwelling in + sight. It reminded me of our forest scenery at home. The principal + difference is, that our trees are two or three times the size of theirs. + </p> + <p> + At length, after scaling another mountain, we reached a wide, elevated + plain, in the middle of which stood the old dorf of Beerfelden. It was + then crowded with people, on account of a great cattle-fair being held + there. All the farmers of the neighborhood were assembled, clad in the + ancient country costume—broad cocked hats and blue frocks. An + orchard near the town was filled with cattle and horses, and near by, in + the shade, a number of pedlars had arranged their wares. The cheerful + looking country people touched their hats to us as we passed. This custom + of greeting travellers, universal in Germany, is very expressive of their + social, friendly manners. Among the mountains, we frequently met groups of + children, who sang together their simple ballads as we passed by. + </p> + <p> + From Beerfelden we passed down the valley of the Mimling to Erbach, the + principal city in the Odenwald, and there stopped a short time to view the + Rittersaal in the old family castle of the Counts of Erbach. An officer, + who stood at the gates, conducted us to the door, where we were received + by a noble-looking, gray-headed steward. He took us into the Rittersaal at + once, which was like stepping back three hundred years. The stained + windows of the lofty Gothic hall, let in a subdued light which fell on the + forms of kings and knights, clad in the armor they wore during life. On + the left as we entered, were mail-covered figures of John and Cosmo do + Medici; further on stood the Emperor Maximilian, and by his side the + celebrated dwarf who was served up in a pie at one of the imperial feasts. + His armor was most delicate and beautiful, but small as it was, General + Thumb would have had room in it. Gustavus Adolphus and Wallenstein looked + down from the neighboring pedestals, while at the other end stood Goetz + von Berlichingen and Albert of Brunswick. Guarding the door were Hans, the + robber-knight of Nuremberg, and another from the Thüringian forest. The + steward told me that the iron hand of Goetz was in possession of the + family, but not shown to strangers; he pointed out, however, the buckles + on the armor, by which it was fastened. Adjoining the hall is an antique + chapel, filled with rude old tombs, and containing the sarcophagus of + Count Eginhard of Denmark, who lived about the tenth century. There were + also monkish garments five hundred years old hanging up in it. + </p> + <p> + The collection of antiquities is large and interesting; but it is said + that the old Count obtained some of them in rather a questionable manner. + Among other incidents, they say that when in Rome he visited the Pope, + taking with him an old servant who accompanied him in all his travels, and + was the accomplice in most of his antiquarian thefts. In one of the outer + halls, among the curiosities, was an antique shield of great value. The + servant was left in this hall while the Count had his audience, and in a + short time this shield was missed. The servant who wore a long cloak, was + missed also; orders were given to close the gates and search every body, + but it was too late—the thief was gone. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Erbach we found out the direction of Snellert, the Castle of the + Wild Huntsman, and took a road that led us for two or three hours along + the top of a mountain ridge. Through the openings in the pine and larch + forests, we had glimpses of the hills of Spessart, beyond the Main. When + we finally left the by-road we had chosen it was quite dark, and we missed + the way altogether among the lanes and meadows. We came at last to a full + stop at the house of a farmer, who guided us by a foot path over the + fields to a small village. On entering the only inn, kept by the + Burgomaster, the people finding we were Americans, regarded us with a + curiosity quite uncomfortable. They crowded around the door, watching + every motion, and gazed in through the windows. The wild huntsman himself + could scarcely have made a greater sensation. The news of our arrival + seemed to have spread very fast, for the next morning when we stopped at a + prune orchard some distance from the village to buy some fruit, the farmer + cried out from a tree, "they are the Americans; give them as many as they + want for nothing!" + </p> + <p> + With the Burgomaster's little son for a guide, we went back a mile or two + of our route to Snellert, which we had passed the night before, and after + losing ourselves two or three times in the woods, arrived at last at the + top of the mountain, where the ruins of the castle stand. The walls are + nearly level with the ground. The interest of a visit rests entirely on + the romantic legend, and the wild view over the hills around, particularly + that in front, where on the opposite mountain are the ruins of Rodenstein, + to which the wild Huntsman was wont to ride at midnight—where he now + rides no more. The echoes of Rodenstein are no longer awakened by the + sound of his bugle, and the hoofs of his demon steed clanging on the + battlements. But the hills around are wild enough, and the roar of the + pine forests deep enough to have inspired the simple peasants with the + romantic tradition. + </p> + <p> + Stopping for dinner at the town of Rheinheim, we met an old man, who, on + learning we were Americans, walked with us as far as the next village. He + had a daughter in America and was highly gratified to meet any one from + the country of her adoption. He made me promise to visit her, if I ever + should go to St. Louis, and say that I had walked with her father from + Rheinheim to Zwangenburg. To satisfy his fears that I might forget it, I + took down his name and that of his daughter. He shook me warmly by the + hand at parting, and was evidently made happier for that day. + </p> + <p> + We reached Darmstadt just in time to take a seat in the omnibus for + Frankfort. Among the passengers were a Bavarian family, on their way to + Bremen, to ship from thence to Texas. I endeavored to discourage the man + from choosing such a country as his home, by telling him of its heats and + pestilences, but he was too full of hope to be shaken in his purpose. I + would have added that it was a slave-land, but I thought on our own + country's curse, and was silent. The wife was not so sanguine; she seemed + to mourn in secret at leaving her beautiful fatherland. It was saddening + to think how lonely they would feel in that far home, and how they would + long, with true German devotion, to look again on the green vintage-hills + of their forsaken country. As night drew on, the little girl crept over to + her father for his accustomed evening kiss, and then sank back to sleep in + a corner of the wagon. The boy, in the artless confidence of childhood, + laid his head on my breast, weary with the day's travel, and soon slept + also. Thus we drove on in the dark, till at length the lights of Frankfort + glimmered on the breast of the rapid Main, as we passed over the bridge, + and when we stopped near the Cathedral, I delivered up my little charge + and sent my sympathy with the wanderers on their lonely way. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. — SCENES IN FRANKFORT—AN AMERICAN COMPOSER—THE + POET FREILIGRATH. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Dec. 4.</i>—This is a genuine old German city. Founded by + Charlemagne, afterwards a rallying point of the Crusaders, and for a long + time the capital of the German empire, it has no lack of interesting + historical recollections, and notwithstanding it is fast becoming + modernized, one is every where reminded of the Past. The Cathedral, old as + the days of Peter the Hermit, the grotesque street of the Jews, the many + quaint, antiquated dwellings and the mouldering watch-towers on the hills + around, give it a more interesting character than any German city I have + yet seen. The house we dwell in, on the Markt Platz, is more than two + hundred years old; directly opposite is a great castellated building, + gloomy with the weight of six centuries, and a few steps to the left + brings me to the square of the Roemerberg, where the Emperors were + crowned, in a corner of which is a curiously ornamented house, formerly + the residence of Luther. There are legends innumerable connected with all + these buildings, and even yet discoveries are frequently made in old + houses, of secret chambers and staircases. When you add to all this, the + German love of ghost stories, and, indeed, their general belief in + spirits, the lover of romance could not desire a more agreeable residence. + </p> + <p> + I often look out on the singular scene below my window. On both sides of + the street, leaving barely room to enter the houses, sit the market women, + with their baskets of vegetables and fruit. The middle of the street is + filled with women buying, and every cart or carriage that comes along, has + to force its way through the crowd, sometimes rolling against and + overturning the baskets on the side, when for a few minutes there is a + Babel of unintelligible sounds. The country women in their jackets and + short gowns go backwards and forwards with great loads on their heads, + sometimes nearly as high as themselves. It is a most singular scene, and + so varied that one never tires of looking upon it. These women sit here + from sunrise till sunset, day after day, for years. They have little + furnaces for cooking and for warmth in winter, and when it rains they sit + in large wooden boxes. One or two policemen are generally on the ground in + the morning to prevent disputing about their places, which often gives + rise to interesting scenes. Perhaps this kind of life in the open air is + conducive to longevity; for certainly there is no country on earth that + has as many old women. Many of them look like walking machines made of + leather; and to judge from what I see in the streets here, I should think + they work till they die. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of October a most interesting fete took place. The magnificent + monument of Goethe, modelled by the sculptor Schwanthaler, at Munich, and + cast in bronze, was unveiled. It arrived a few days before, and was + received with much ceremony and erected in the destined spot, an open + square in the western part of the city, planted with acacia trees. I went + there at ten o'clock, and found the square already full of people. Seats + had been erected around the monument for ladies, the singers and + musicians. A company of soldiers was stationed to keep an entrance for the + procession, which at length arrived with music and banners, and entered + the enclosure. A song for the occasion was sung by the choir; it swelled + up gradually, and with such perfect harmony and unity, that it seemed like + some glorious instrument touched by a single hand. Then a poetical address + was delivered; after which four young men took their stand at the corners + of the monument; the drums and trumpets gave a flourish, and the mantle + fell. The noble figure seemed to rise out of the earth, and thus amid + shoutings and the triumphal peal of the band, the form of Goethe greeted + the city of his birth. He is represented as leaning on the trunk of a + tree, holding in his right hand a roll of parchment, and in his left a + wreath. The pedestal, which is also of bronze, contains bas reliefs, + representing scenes from Faust, Wilhelm Meister and Egmont. In the evening + Goethe's house, in a street near, was illuminated by arches of lamps + between the windows, and hung with wreaths of flowers. Four pillars of + colored lamps lighted the statue. At nine o'clock the choir of singers + came again in a procession, with colored lanterns, on poles, and after + singing two or three songs, the statue was exhibited in the red glare of + the Bengal light. The trees and houses around the square were covered with + the glow, which streamed in broad sheets up against the dark sky. + </p> + <p> + Within the walls the greater part of Frankfort is built in the old German + style—the houses six or seven stones high, and every story + projecting out over the other, so that those living in the upper part can + nearly shake hands out of the windows. At the corners figures of men are + often seen, holding up the story above on their shoulders and making + horrible faces at the weight. When I state that in all these narrow + streets which constitute the greater part of the city, there are no + sidewalks, the windows of the lower stories with an iron grating extending + a foot or so into the street, which is only wide enough for one cart to + pass along, you can have some idea of the facility of walking through + them, to say nothing of the piles of wood, and market-women with baskets + of vegetables which one is continually stumbling over. Even in the wider + streets, I have always to look before and behind to keep out of the way of + the fiacres; the people here get so accustomed to it, that they leave + barely room for them to pass, and the carriages go dashing by at a + nearness which sometimes makes me shudder. + </p> + <p> + As I walked across the Main, and looked down at the swift stream on its + way from the distant Thuringian forest to join the Rhine, I thought of the + time when Schiller stood there in the days of his early struggles, an + exile from his native land, and looking over the bridge, said in the + loneliness of his heart, "That water flows not so deep as my sufferings!" + In the middle, on an iron ornament, stands the golden cock at which Goethe + used to marvel when a boy. Perhaps you have not heard the legend connected + with this. The bridge was built several hundred years ago, with such + strength and solidity that it will stand many hundred yet. The architect + had contracted to build it within a certain time, but as it drew near, + without any prospect of fulfilment, the devil appeared to him and promised + to finish it, on condition of having the first soul that passed over it. + This was agreed upon end the devil performed his part of the bargain. The + artist, however, on the day appointed, drove a cook across before he + suffered any one to pass over it. His majesty stationed himself under the + middle arch of the bridge, awaiting his prey; but enraged at the cheat, he + tore the unfortunate fowl in pieces and broke two holes in the arch, + saying they should never be built up again. The golden cock was erected on + the bridge as a token of the event, but the devil has perhaps lost some of + his power in these latter days, for the holes were filled up about thirty + years ago. + </p> + <p> + From the hills on the Darmstadt road, I had a view of the country around—the + fields were white and bare, and the dark Tannus, with the broad patches of + snow on his sides, looked grim and shadowy through the dim atmosphere. It + was like the landscape of a dream—dark, strange and silent. The + whole of last month we saw the sun but two or three days, the sky being + almost continually covered with a gloomy fog. England and Germany seem to + have exchanged climates this year, for in the former country we had + delightfully clear weather. + </p> + <p> + I have seen the banker Rothschild several times driving about the city. + This one—Anselmo, the most celebrated of the brothers—holds a + mortgage on the city of Jerusalem. He rides about in style, with officers + attending his carriage. He is a little bald-headed man, with marked Jewish + features, and is said not to deceive his looks. At any rate, his + reputation is none of the best, either with Jews or Christians. A + caricature was published some time ago, in which he is represented as + giving a beggar woman by the way-side, a kreutzer—the smallest + German coin. She is made to exclaim, "God reward you, a thousand fold!" He + immediately replies, after reckoning up in his head: "How much have I + then?—sixteen florins and forty kreutzers!" + </p> + <p> + I have lately heard one of the most perfectly beautiful creations that + ever emanated from the soul of genius—the opera of Fidelio. I have + caught faint glimpses of that rich world of fancy and feeling, to which + music is the golden door. Surrendering myself to the grasp of Beethoven's + powerful conception, I read in sounds far more expressive than words, the + almost despairing agony of the strong-hearted, but still tender and + womanly Fidelio—the ecstatic joy of the wasted prisoner, when he + rose from his hard couch in the dungeon, seeming to fuel, in his maniac + brain, the presentiment of a bright being who would come to unbind his + chains—and. the sobbing and wailing, almost-human, which came from + the orchestra, when they dug his grave, by the dim lantern's light. When + it was done, the murderer stole into the dungeon, to gloat on the agonies + of his victim, ere he gave the death-blow. Then, while the prisoner is + waked to reason by that sight, and Fidelio throws herself before the + uplifted dagger, rescuing her husband with the courage which love gives to + a woman's heart, the storm of feeling which has been gathering in the + music, swells to a height beyond which it seemed impossible for the soul + to pass. My nerves were thrilled till I could bear no more. A mist seemed + to come before my eyes and I scarcely knew what followed, till the rescued + kneeled together and poured forth in the closing hymn the painful fullness + of their joy. I dreaded the sound of voices after the close, and the walk + home amid the harsh rattling of vehicles on the rough streets. For days + afterwards my brain was filled with a mingled and confused sense of + melody, like the half-remembered music of a dream. + </p> + <p> + Why should such magnificent creations of art be denied the new world? + There is certainly enthusiasm and refinement of feeling enough at home to + appreciate them, were the proper direction given to the popular taste. + What country possesses more advantages to foster the growth of such an + art, than ours? Why should not the composer gain mighty conceptions from + the grandeur of our mountain scenery, from the howling of the storm + through our giant forests, from the eternal thunder of Niagara? All these + collateral influences, which more or less tend to the development and + expansion of genius, are characteristics of our country; and a taste for + musical compositions of a refined and lofty character, would soon give + birth to creators. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately for our country, this missing star in the crown of her growing + glory, will probably soon be replaced. Richard S. Willis, with whom we + have lived in delightful companionship, since coming here, has been for + more than two years studying and preparing himself for the higher branches + of composition. The musical talent he displayed while at college, and the + success following the publication of a set of beautiful waltzes he there + composed, led him to choose this most difficult but lofty path; the result + justifies his early promise and gives the most sanguine anticipations for + the future. He studied the first two years here under Schnyder von + Wartensee, a distinguished Swiss composer; and his exercises have met with + the warmest approval from Mendelsohn, at present the first German + composer, and Rinck, the celebrated organist. The enormous labor and + application required to go through the preparatory studies alone, would + make it seem almost impossible for one with the restless energy of the + American character, to undertake it; but as this very energy gives genius + its greatest power, we may now trust with confidence that Willis, since he + has nearly completed his studies, will win himself and his country honor + in the difficult path he has chosen. + </p> + <p> + One evening, after sunset, we took a stroll around the promenades. The + swans were still floating on the little lake, and the American poplar + beside it, was in its full autumn livery. As we made the circuit of the + walks, guns were firing far and near, celebrating the opening of the + vintage the next day, and rockets went glittering and sparkling up into + the dark air. Notwithstanding the late hour and lowering sky, the walks + were full of people and we strolled about with them till it grew quite + dark, watching the fire-works which arose from the gardens around. + </p> + <p> + The next day, we went into the Frankfort wood. Willis and his + brother-in-law, Charles F. Dennett, of Boston, Dr. Dix and another young + gentleman from the same city, formed the party—six Americans in all; + we walked over the Main and through the dirty suburbs of Sachsenhausen, + where we met many peasants laden with the first day's vintage, and crowds + of people coming down from the vineyards. As we ascended the hill, the + sound of firing was heard in every direction, and from many vineyards + arose the smoke of fires where groups of merry children were collecting + and burning the rubbish. We became lost among the winding paths of the + pine forest, so that by the time we came out upon the eminence overlooking + the valley of the Main, it was quite dark. From every side, far and near, + rockets of all sizes and colors darted high up into the sky. Sometimes a + flight of the most brilliant crimson and gold lights rushed up together, + then again by some farm-house in the meadow, the vintagers would burn a + Roman candle, throwing its powerful white light on the gardens and fields + around. We stopped under a garden wall, by which a laughing company were + assembled in the smoke and red blaze, and watched several comets go + hissing and glancing far above us. The cracking of ammunition still + continued, and when we came again upon the bridge, the city opposite was + lighted as if illuminated. The full moon had just risen, softening and + mellowing the beautiful scene, while beyond, over the tower of Frankfort, + rose and fell the meteors that heralded the vintage. + </p> + <p> + Since I have been in Frankfort, an event has occurred, which shows very + distinctly the principles at work in Germany, and gives us some foreboding + of the future. Ferdinand Freiligrath, the first living poet with the + exception of Uhland, has within a few weeks published a volume of poems + entitled, "My Confession of Faith, or Poems for the Times." It contains + some thrilling appeals to the free spirit of the German people, setting + forth the injustice under which they labor, in simple but powerful + language, and with the most forcible illustrations, adapted to the + comprehension of everyone. Viewed as a work of genius alone, it is + strikingly powerful and original: but when we consider the effect it is + producing among the people—the strength it will add to the rising + tide of opposition to every form of tyranny, it has a still higher + interest. Freiligrath had three or four years before, received a pension + of three hundred thalers from the King of Prussia, soon after his + accession to the throne: he ceased to draw this about a year ago, stating + in the preface to his volume that it was accepted in the belief the King + would adhere to his promise of giving the people a new constitution, but + that now since free spirit which characterises these men, who come from + among the people, shows plainly the tendency of the times; and it is only + the great strength with which tyranny here has environed himself, and the + almost lethargic <i>slowness</i> of the Germans, which has prevented a + change ere this. + </p> + <p> + In this volume of Freiligrath's, among other things, is a translation of + Bryant's magnificent poem "The Winds," and Burns's "A man's a man for a' + that;" and I have translated one of his, as a specimen of the spirit in + which they are written: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + FREEDOM AND RIGHT. + + Oh! think not she rests in the grave's chilly slumber + Nor sheds o'er the present her glorious light, + Since Tyranny's shackles the free soul incumber + And traitors accusing, deny to us Right! + No: whether to exile the sworn ones are wending, + Or weary of power that crushed them unending, + In dungeons have perished, their veins madly rending,[*] + Yet Freedom still liveth, and with her, the Right! + Freedom and Right! + + A single defeat can confuse us no longer: + It adds to the combat's last gathering might, + It bids us but doubly to struggle, and stronger + To raise up our battle-cry—"Freedom and Right!" + For the Twain know a union forever abiding, + Together in Truth and in majesty striding; + Where Right is, already the free are residing + And ever, where dwell the free, governeth Right! + Freedom and Right! + + And this is a trust: never made, us at present, + The glad pair from battle to battle their flight; + Never breathed through the soul of the down-trodden peasant, + Their spirit so deeply its promptings of light! + They sweep o'er the earth with a tempest-like token; + From strand unto strand words of thunder are spoken: + Already the serf finds his manacles broken, + And those of the negro are falling from sight + Freedom and Right! + + Yes, every where wide is their war-banner waving. + On the armies of Wrong their revenge to requite; + The strength of Oppression they boldly are braving + And at last they will conquer, resistless in might! + Oh, God! what a glorious wreath then appearing + Will blend every leaf in the banner they're bearing—The + olive of Greece and the shamrock of Erin, + And the oak-bough of Germany, greenest in light! + Freedom and Right! + + And many who suffered, are now calmly sleeping, + The slumber of freemen, borne down by the fight; + While the Twain o'er their graves still a bright watch are keeping, + Whom we bless for their memories—Freedom and Right! + Meanwhile lift your glasses! to those who have striven! + And striving with bold hearts, to misery were driven! + Who fought for the Right and but Wrong then were given! + To Right, the immortal—to Freedom through Right! + Freedom through Right! +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + * [ This allusion is to Weidig, + who, imprisoned for years at Darmstadt on account of his political + principles, finally committed suicide by cutting his throat with the glass + of his prison-window.] + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. — A WEEK AMONG THE STUDENTS. + </h2> + <p> + Receiving a letter from my cousin one bright December morning, the idea of + visiting him struck me, and so, within an hour, B—— and I were + on our way to Heidelberg. It was delightful weather; the air was mild as + the early days of spring, the pine forests around wore a softer green, and + though the sun was but a hand's breadth high, even at noon, it was quite + warm on the open road. We stopped for the night at Bensheim; the next + morning was as dark as a cloudy day in the north can be, wearing a heavy + gloom I never saw elsewhere. The wind blew the snow down from the summits + upon us, but being warm from walking, we did not heed it. The mountains + looked higher than in summer, and the old castles more grim and frowning. + From the hard roads and freezing wind, my feet became very sore, and after + limping along in excruciating pain for a league or two, I filled my boots + with brandy, which deadened the wounds so much, that I was enabled to go + on in a kind of trot, which I kept up, only stopping ten minutes to + dinner, till we reached Heidelberg. + </p> + <p> + The same evening there was to be a general <i>commers</i>, or meeting of + the societies among the students, and I determined not to omit witnessing + one of the most interesting and characteristic features of student-life. + So borrowing a cap and coat, I looked the student well enough to pass for + one of them, though the former article was somewhat of the <i>Philister</i> + form. Baader, a young poet of some note, and president of the "Palatia" + Society, having promised to take us there, we met at eight o'clock at an + inn frequented by the students, and went to the rendezvous, near the Markt + Platz. + </p> + <p> + A confused sound of voices came from the inn, as we drew near; groups of + students were standing around the door. In the entry we saw the Red + Fisherman, one of the most conspicuous characters about the University. He + is a small, stout man, with bare neck and breast, red hair, whence his + name, and a strange mixture of roughness and benevolence in his + countenance. He has saved many persons at the risk of his own life, from + drowning in the Neckar, and on that account is leniently dealt with by the + faculty whenever he is arrested for assisting the students in any of their + unlawful proceedings. Entering the room I could scarcely see at first, on + account of the smoke that ascended from a hundred pipes. All was noise and + confusion. Near the door sat some half dozen musicians who were getting + their instruments ready for action, and the long room was filled with + tables, all of which seemed to be full and the students were still + pressing in. The tables were covered with great stone jugs and long beer + glasses; the students were talking and shouting and drinking.—One + who appeared to have the arrangement of the meeting, found seats for us + together, and having made a slight acquaintance with those sitting next + us, we felt more at liberty to witness their proceedings. They were all + talking in a sociable, friendly way, and I saw no one who appeared to be + intoxicated. The beer was a weak mixture, which I should think would make + one fall over from its <i>weight</i> before it would intoxicate him. Those + sitting near me drank but little, and that principally to make or return + compliments. One or two at the other end of the table were more + boisterous, and more than one glass was overturned on the legs below it. + Leaves containing the songs for the evening lay at each seat, and at the + head, where the President sat, were two swords crossed, with which he + occasionally struck upon the table to preserve order. Our President was a + fine, romantic-looking young man, dressed in the old German costume, which + is far handsomer than the modern. I never saw in any company of young men, + so many handsome, manly countenances. If their faces were any index of + their characters, there were many noble, free souls among them. Nearly + opposite to me sat a young poet, whose dark eyes flashed with feeling as + he spoke to those near him. After some time passed in talking and drinking + together, varied by an occasional air from the musicians, the President + beat order with the sword, and the whole company joined in one of their + glorious songs, to a melody at the same time joyous and solemn. Swelled by + so many manly voices it rose up like a hymn of triumph—all other + sounds were stilled. Three times during the singing all rose up, clashed + their glasses together around the tables and drank to their Fatherland, a + health and blessing to the patriot, and honor to those who struggle in the + cause of freedom, at the close thundering out their motto: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Fearless in strife, to the banner still true!" +</pre> + <p> + After this song the same order as before was continued, except that + students from the different societies made short speeches, accompanied by + some toast or sentiment. One spoke of Germany—predicting that all + her dissensions would be overcome, and she would rise up at last, like a + phoenix among the nations of Europe; and at the close gave 'strong, + united, regenerated Germany!' Instantly all sprang to their feet, and + clashing the glasses together, gave a thundering "<i>hoch!</i>" This + enthusiasm for their country is one of the strongest characteristics of + the German students; they have ever been first in the field for her + freedom, and on them mainly depends her future redemption. + </p> + <p> + Cloths were passed around, the tables wiped off, and preparations made to + sing the "<i>Landsfather</i>" or consecration song. This is one of the + most important and solemn of their ceremonies, since by performing it the + new students are made <i>burschen</i>, and the bands of brotherhood + continually kept fresh and sacred. All became still a moment, then they + commenced the lofty song: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Silent bending, each one lending + To the solemn tones his ear, + Hark, the song of songs is sounding— + Back from joyful choir resounding, + Hear it, German brothers, hear! + + "German proudly, raise it loudly, + Singing of your fatherland— + Fatherland! thou land of story, + To the altars of thy glory + Consecrate us, sword in hand! + + "Take the beaker, pleasure seeker, + With thy country's drink brimmed o'er! + In thy left the sword is blinking. + Pierce it through the cap, while drinking + To thy Fatherland once more!" +</pre> + <p> + With the first line of the last stanza, the Presidents sitting at the head + of the table, take their glasses in their right hands, and at the third + line, the sword in their left, at the end striking their glasses together + and drinking. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "In left hand gleaming, thou art beaming, + Sword from all dishonour free! + Thus I pierce the cap, while swearing, + It in honor ever wearing, + I a valiant Bursch will be!" +</pre> + <p> + They clash their swords together till the third line is sung, when each + takes his cap, and piercing the point of the sword through the crown, + draws it down to the guard. Leaving their caps on the swords, the + Presidents stand behind the two next students, who go through the same + ceremony, receiving the swords at the appropriate time, and giving it back + loaded with their caps also. This ceremony is going on at every table at + the same time. These two stanzas are repeated for every pair of students, + till all have gone through with it, and the Presidents have arrived at the + bottom of the table, with their swords strung full of caps. Here they + exchange swords, while all sing: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Come thou bright sword, now made holy, + Of free men the weapon free; + Bring it solemnly and slowly, + Heavy with pierced caps, to me! + From its burden now divest it; + Brothers be ye covered all, + And till our next festival, + Hallowed and unspotted rest it! + + "Up, ye feast companions! ever + Honor ye our holy band! + And with heart and soul endeavor + E'er as high-souled men to stand! + Up to feast, ye men united! + Worthy be your fathers' fame, + And the sword may no one claim, + Who to honor is not plighted!" +</pre> + <p> + Then each President, taking a cap of his sword, reached it to the student + opposite, and they crossed their swords, the ends resting on the two + students' heads, while they sang the next stanza: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "So take it back; thy head I now will cover + And stretch the bright sword over. + Live also then this Bursche, hoch! + Wherever we may meet him, + Will we, as Brother greet him— + Live also this, our Brother, hoch!" +</pre> + <p> + This ceremony was repeated till all the caps were given back, and they + then concluded with the following: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Rest, the Bursehen-feast is over, + Hallowed sword and thou art free! + Each one strive a valiant lover + Of his fatherland to be! + Hail to him, who, glory-haunted, + Follows still his fathers bold; + And the sword may no one hold + But the noble and undaunted!" +</pre> + <p> + The Landsfather being over, the students were less orderly; the smoking + and drinking began again and we left, as it was already eleven o'clock, + glad to breathe the pure cold air. + </p> + <p> + In the University I heard Gervinus, who was formerly professor in + Göttingen, but was obliged to leave on account of his liberal principles. + He is much liked by the students and his lectures are very well attended. + They had this winter a torchlight procession in honor of him. He is a + stout, round-faced man, speaks very fast, and makes them laugh continually + with his witty remarks. In the room I saw a son of Rückert, the poet, with + a face strikingly like his father's. The next evening I went to hear + Schlosser, the great historian. Among his pupils are the two princes of + Baden, who are now at the University. He came hurriedly in, threw down his + portfolio and began instantly to speak. He is an old, gray-headed man, but + still active and full of energy. The Germans find him exceedingly + difficult to understand, as he is said to use the English construction + almost entirely; for this reason, perhaps, I understood him quite easily. + He lectures on the French Revolution, but is engaged in writing a + Universal History, the first numbers of which are published. + </p> + <p> + Two or three days after, we heard that a duel was to take place at + Neuenheim, on the opposite side of the Neckur, where the students have a + house hired for that purpose. In order to witness the spectacle, we + started immediately with two or three students. Along the road were + stationed old women, at intervals, as guards, to give notice of the + approach of the police, and from these we learned that one duel had + already been fought, and they were preparing for the other. The Red + Fisherman was busy in an outer room grinding the swords, which are made as + sharp as razors. In the large room some forty or fifty students were + walking about, while the parties were preparing. This was done by taking + off the coat and vest and binding a great thick leather garment on, which + reached from the breast to the knees, completely protecting the body. They + then put on a leather glove reaching nearly to the shoulder, tied a thick + cravat around the throat, and drew on a cap with a large vizor. This done, + they were walked about the room a short time, the seconds holding out + their arms to strengthen them; their faces all this time betrayed + considerable anxiety. + </p> + <p> + All being ready, the seconds took their stations immediately behind them, + each armed with a sword, and gave the words: "<i>ready—bind your + weapons—loose!</i>" They instantly sprang at each other, exchanged + two or three blows, when the seconds cried "halt!" and struck their swords + up. Twenty-four rounds of this kind ended the duel, without either being + hurt, though the cap of one of them was cut through and his forehead + grazed. All their duels do not end so fortunately, however, as the + frightful scars on the faces of many of those present, testified. It is a + gratification to know that but a small portion of the students keep up + this barbarous custom. The great body is opposed to it; in Heidelberg, + four societies, comprising more than one half the students, have been + formed against it. A strong desire for such a reform seems to prevail, and + the custom will probably be totally discontinued in a short time. + </p> + <p> + This view of the student-life was very interesting to me; it appeared in a + much better light than I had been accustomed to view it. Their peculiar + customs, except duelling and drinking, of course, may be the better + tolerated when we consider their effect on the liberty of Germany. It is + principally through them that a free spirit is kept alive; they have ever + been foremost to rise up for their Fatherland, and bravest in its defence. + And though many of their customs have so often been held up to ridicule, + among no other class can one find warmer, truer or braver hearts. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. — CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN GERMANY. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Jan. 2, 1845.</i>—I have lately been computing how much my + travels have cost me up to the present time, and how long I can remain + abroad to continue the pilgrimage, with my present expectations. The + result has been most encouraging to my plan. Before leaving home, I wrote + to several gentlemen who had visited Europe, requesting the probable + expense of travel and residence abroad. They sent different accounts; E. + Joy Morris said I must calculate to spend at least $1500 a year; another + suggested $1000, and the most moderate of all, said that it was <i>impossible</i> + to live in Europe a year on less than $500. Now, six months have elapsed + since I left home—six months of greater pleasure and profit than any + <i>year</i> of my former life—and my expenses, in full, amount to + $130! This, however, nearly exhausts the limited sum with which I started, + but through the kindness of the editorial friends who have been publishing + my sketches of travel, I trust to receive a remittance shortly. Printing + is a business attended with so little profit here, as there are already so + many workmen, that it is almost useless for a stranger to apply. Besides, + after a tough grapple, I am just beginning to master the language, and it + seems so necessary to devote every minute to study, that I would rather + undergo some privation, than neglect turning these fleeting hours into + gold, for the miser Memory to stow away in the treasure-vaults of the + mind. + </p> + <p> + We have lately witnessed the most beautiful and interesting of all German + festivals—Christmas. This is here peculiarly celebrated. About the + commencement of December, the Christmarkt or fair, was opened in the + Roemerberg, and has continued to the present time. The booths, decorated + with green boughs, were filled with toys of various kinds, among which + during the first days the figure of St. Nicholas was conspicuous. There + were bunches of wax candles to illuminate the Christmas tree, gingerbread + with printed mottos in poetry, beautiful little earthenware, basket-work, + and a wilderness of playthings. The 5th of December, being Nicholas + evening, the booths were lighted up, and the square was filled with boys, + running from one stand to another, all shouting and talking together in + the most joyous confusion. Nurses were going around, carrying the smaller + children in their arms, and parents bought presents decorated with sprigs + of pine and carried them away. Some of the shops had beautiful toys, as + for instance, a whole grocery store in miniature, with barrels, boxes and + drawers, all filled with sweetmeats, a kitchen with a stove and all + suitable utensils, which could really be used, and sets of dishes of the + most diminutive patterns. All was a scene of activity and joyous feeling. + </p> + <p> + Many of the tables had bundles of rods with gilded bands, which were to be + used that evening by the persons who represented St. Nicholas. In the + family with whom we reside, one of our German friends dressed himself very + comically, with a mask, fur robe and long tapering cap. He came in with a + bunch of rods and a sack, and a broom for a sceptre. After we all had + received our share of the beating, he threw the contents of his bag on the + table, and while we were scrambling for the nuts and apples, gave us many + smart raps over the fingers. In many families the children are made to + say, "I thank you, Herr Nicolaus," and the rods are hung up in the room + till Christmas to keep them in good behavior. This was only a forerunner + of the Christ-kindchen's coming. The Nicolaus is the punishing spirit, the + Christ-kindchen the rewarding one. + </p> + <p> + When this time was over, we all began preparing secretly our presents for + Christmas. Every day there were consultations about the things which + should be obtained. It was so arranged that all should interchange + presents, but nobody must know beforehand what he would receive. What + pleasure there was in all these secret purchases and preparations! + Scarcely anything was thought or spoken of but Christmas, and every day + the consultations became more numerous and secret. The trees were bought + sometime beforehand, but as we were to witness the festival for the first + time, we were not allowed to see them prepared, in order that the effect + might be as great as possible. The market in the Roeinerberg Square grew + constantly larger and more brilliant. Every night it was lit up with lamps + and thronged with people. Quite a forest sprang up in the street before + our door. The old stone house opposite, with the traces of so many + centuries on its dark face, seemed to stand in the midst of a garden. It + was a pleasure to go out every evening and see the children rushing to and + fro, shouting and seeking out toys from the booths, and talking all the + time of the Christmas that was so near. The poor people went by with their + little presents hid under their cloaks, lest their children might see + them; every heart was glad and every countenance wore a smile of secret + pleasure. + </p> + <p> + Finally the day before Christmas arrived. The streets were so full I could + scarce make my way through, and the sale of trees went on more rapidly + than ever. These wore commonly branches of pine or fir, set upright in a + little miniature garden of moss. When the lamps were lighted at night, our + street had the appearance of an illuminated garden. We were prohibited + from entering the rooms up stairs in which the grand ceremony was to take + place, being obliged to take our seats in those arranged for the guests, + and wait with impatience the hour when Christ-kindchen should call. + Several relations of the family came, and what was more agreeable, they + brought with them five or six children. I was anxious to see how they + would view the ceremony. Finally, in the middle of an interesting + conversation, we heard the bell ringing up stairs. We all started up, and + made for the door. I ran up the steps with the children at my heels, and + at the top met a blaze of light coming from the open door, that dazzled + me. In each room stood a great table, on which the presents were arranged, + amid flowers and wreaths. From the centre, rose the beautiful Christmas + tree covered with wax tapers to the very top, which made it nearly as + light as day, while every bough was hung with sweetmeats and gilded nuts. + The children ran shouting around the table, hunting their presents, while + the older persons had theirs pointed out to them. I had qui'e a little + library of German authors as my share; and many of the others received + quite valuable gifts. + </p> + <p> + But how beautiful was the heart-felt joy that shone on every countenance! + As each one discovered he embraced the givers, and all was a scene of the + purest feelings. It is a glorious feast, this Christmas time! What a + chorus from happy hearts went up on that evening to Heaven! Full of poetry + and feeling and glad associations, it is here anticipated with joy, and + leaves a pleasant memory behind it. We may laugh at such simple festivals + at home, and prefer to shake ourselves loose from every shackle that bears + the rust of the Past, but we would certainly be happier if some of these + beautiful old customs were better honored. They renew the bond of feeling + between families and friends, and strengthen their kindly sympathy; even + life-long friends require occasions of this kind to freshen the wreath + that binds them together. + </p> + <p> + New Year's Eve is also favored with a peculiar celebration in Germany. + Every body remains up and makes himself merry till midnight. The Christmas + trees are again lighted, and while the tapers are burning down, the family + play for articles which they have purchased and hung on the boughs. It is + so arranged that each one shall win as much as he gives, which change of + articles makes much amusement. One of the ladies rejoiced in the + possession of a red silk handkerchief and a cake of soap, while a cup and + saucer and a pair of scissors fell to my lot! As midnight drew near, it + was louder in the streets, and companies of people, some of them singing + in chorus, passed by on their way to the Zeil. Finally three-quarters + struck, the windows were opened and every one waited anxiously for the + clock to strike. At the first sound, such a cry arose as one may imagine, + when thirty or forty thousand persons all set their lungs going at once. + Every body in the house, in the street, over the whole city, shouted, <i>"Prosst + Neu Jahr?"</i> In families, all the members embrace each other, with + wishes of happiness for the new year. Then the windows are thrown open, + and they cry to their neighbors or those passing by. + </p> + <p> + After we had exchanged congratulations, Dennett, B—— and I set + out for the Zeil. The streets were full of people, shouting to one another + and to those standing at the open windows. We failed not to cry, <i>"Prosst + Neu Jahr!"</i> wherever we saw a damsel at the window, and the words came + back to us more musically than we sent them. Along the Zeil the spectacle + was most singular. The great wide street was filled with companies of men, + marching up and down, while from the mass rang up one deafening, unending + shout, that seemed to pierce the black sky above. The whole scene looked + stranger and wilder from the flickering light of the swinging lamps, and I + could not help thinking it must resemble a night in Paris during the + French Revolution. We joined the crowd and used our lungs as well as any + of them. For some time after we returned home, companies passed by, + singing "with us 'tis ever so!" but at three o'clock all was again silent. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. — WINTER IN FRANKFORT—A FAIR, AN INUNDATION AND A + FIRE. + </h2> + <p> + After New Year, the Main, just above the city, and the lakes in the + promenades, were frozen over. The ice was tried by the police, and having + been found of sufficient thickness, to the great joy of the schoolboys, + permission was given to skate. The lakes were soon covered with merry + skaters, and every afternoon the banks were crowded with spectators. It + was a lively sight to see two or three hundred persons darting about, + turning and crossing like a flock of crows, while, by means of arm-chairs + mounted on runners, the ladies were enabled to join in the sport, and + whirl around among them. Some of the broad meadows near the city, which + were covered with water, were the resort of the schools. I went there + often in my walks, and always found two or three schools, with the + teachers, all skating together, and playing their winter games on the ice. + I have often seen them on the meadows along the Main; the teachers + generally made quite as much noise as the scholars in their sports. + </p> + <p> + In the Art Institute I saw the picture of "Huss before the Council of + Constance," by the painter Lessing. It contains upwards of twenty figures. + The artist has shown the greatest skill in the expression and grouping of + these. Bishops and Cardinals in their splendid robes are seated around a + table, covered with parchment folios, and before them stands Huss alone. + His face, pale and thin with long imprisonment, he has lain one hand on + his breast, while with the other he has grasped one of the volumes on the + table; there is an air of majesty, of heavenly serenity on his lofty + forehead and calm eye. One feels instinctively that he has truth on his + side. There can be no deception, no falsehood in those noble features. The + three Italian cardinals before him appear to be full of passionate rage; + the bishop in front, who holds the imperial pass given to Huss, looks on + with an expression of scorn, and the priests around have an air of mingled + curiosity and hatred. There is one, however, in whose mild features and + tearful eye is expressed sympathy and pity for the prisoner. It is said + this picture has had a great effect upon Catholics who have seen it, in + softening the bigotry with which they regarded the early reformers; and if + so, it is a triumphant proof how much art can effect in the cause of truth + and humanity. I was much interested in a cast of the statue of St. George, + by the old Italian sculptor Donatello. It is a figure full of youth and + energy, with a countenance that seems to breathe. Donatello was the + teacher of Michael Angelo, and when the young sculptor was about setting + off for Rome, he showed him the statue, his favorite work. Michael gazed + at it long and intensely, and at length, on parting, said to Donatello, + "It wants but one thing." The artist pondered long over this expression, + for he could not imagine in what could fail the matchless figure. At + length, after many years, Michael Angelo, in the noon of his renown, + visited the death-bed of his old master. Donatello begged to know, before + he died, what was wanting to his St. George. Angelo answered, "<i>the gift + of speech!</i>" and a smile of triumph lighted the old man's face, as he + closed his eyes forever. + </p> + <p> + The Eschernheim Tower, at the entrance of one of the city gates, is + universally admired by strangers, on account of its picturesque + appearance, overgrown with ivy and terminated by the little pointed + turrets, which one sees so often in Germany, on buildings three or four + centuries old. There are five other watch towers of similar form, which + stand on different sides of the city, at the distance of a mile or two, + and generally upon an eminence overlooking the country. They were erected + several centuries ago, to discern from afar the approach of an enemy, and + protect the caravans of merchants, which at that time travelled from city + to city, from the attacks of robbers. The Eschernheim Tower is interesting + from another circumstance, which, whether true or not, is universally + believed. When Frankfort was under the sway of a prince, a Swiss hunter, + for some civil offence, was condemned to die. He begged his life from the + prince, who granted it only on condition that he should fire the figure 9 + with his rifle through the vane of this tower. He agreed, and did it; and + at the present lime, one can distinguish a rude 9 on the vane, as if cut + with bullets, while two or three marks at the side appear to be from shots + that failed. + </p> + <p> + The promise of spring which lately visited us, was not destined for + fulfilment. Shortly afterwards it grew cold again, with a succession of + snows and sharp northerly winds. Such weather at the commencement of + spring is not uncommon at home; but here they say there has not been such + a winter known for 150 years. In the north of Prussia many persons have + been starved to death on account of provisions becoming scarce. Among the + Hartz also, the suffering is very great. We saw something of the misery + even here. It was painful to walk through the streets and see so many + faces bearing plainly the marks of want, so many pale, hollow-eyed + creatures, with suffering written on every feature. We were assailed with + petitions for help which could not be relieved, though it pained and + saddened the heart to deny. The women, too, labor like brutes, day after + day. Many of them appear cheerful and contented, and are no doubt, + tolerably happy, for the Germans have all true, warm hearts, and are + faithful to one another, as far as poverty will permit; but one cannot see + old, gray-headed women, carrying loads on their heads as heavy as + themselves, exposed to all kinds of weather and working from morning till + night, without pity and indignation. + </p> + <p> + So unusually severe has been the weather, that the deer and hares in the + mountains near, came nearly starved and tamed down by hunger, into the + villages to hunt food. The people fed them everyday, and also carried + grain into the fields for the partridges and pheasants, who flew up to + them like domestic fowls. The poor ravens made me really sorry; some lay + dead in the fields and many came into the city perfectly tame, flying + along the Main with wings hardly strong enough to boar up their skeleton + bodies. The storks came at the usual time, but went back again. I hope the + year's blessing has not departed with them, according to the old German + superstition. + </p> + <p> + <i>March 26.</i>—We have hopes of spring at last. Three days ago the + rain began and has continued with little intermission till now. The air is + warm, the snow goes fast, and every thing seems to announce that the long + winter is breaking up. The Main rises fast, and goes by the city like an + arrow, whirling large masses of ice upon the banks. The hills around are + coming out from under the snow, and the lilac-buds in the promenades begin + to expand for the second time. + </p> + <p> + The Fair has now commenced in earnest, and it is a most singular and + interesting sight. The open squares are filled with booths, leaving narrow + streets between them, across which canvas is spread. Every booth is open + and filled with a dazzling display of wares of all kinds. Merchants + assemble from all parts of Europe. The Bohemians come with their gorgeous + crystal ware; the Nuremborgers with their toys, quaint and fanciful as the + old city itself; men from the Thuringian forest, with minerals and canes, + and traders from Berlin, Vienna, Paris and Switzerland, with dry goods and + wares of all kinds. Near the Exchange are two or three companies of + Tyrolese, who attract much of my attention. Their costume is exceedingly + picturesque. The men have all splendid manly figures, and honor and + bravery are written on their countenances. One of the girls is a really + handsome mountain maiden, and with her pointed, broad-brimmed black hat, + as romantic looking as one could desire. The musicians have arrived, and + we are entertained the whole day long by wandering bands, some of whom + play finely. The best, which is also the favorite company, is from Saxony, + called "The Mountain Boys." They are now playing in our street, and while + I write, one of the beautiful choruses from Norma comes up through the din + of the crowd. In fact, music is heard over the whole city, and the throngs + that fill every street with all sorts of faces and dresses, somewhat + relieve the monotony that was beginning to make Frankfort tiresome. + </p> + <p> + We have an ever-varied and interesting scene from our window. Besides the + motley crowd of passers-by, there are booths and tables stationed thick + below. One man in particular is busily engaged in selling his store of + blacking in the auction style, in a manner that would do credit to a real + Down-caster. He has flaming certificates exhibited, and prefaces his calls + to buy with a high-sounding description of his wonderful qualities. He has + a bench in front, where he tests on the shoes of his customers, or if none + of those are disposed to try it, he rubs it on his own, which shine like + mirrors. So he rattles on with amazing fluency in French, German and + Italian, and this, with his black beard and moustache and his polite, + graceful manner, keeps a crowd of customers around him, so that the + wonderful blacking goes off as fast as he can supply it. + </p> + <p> + <i>April 6.</i>—Old Winter's gales are shut close behind us, and the + sun looks down with his summer countenance. The air, after the long cold + rain, is like that of Paradise. All things are gay and bright, and + everybody is in motion. Spring commenced with yesterday in earnest, and + lo! before night the roads were all dry and fine as if there had been no + rain for a month; and the gardeners dug and planted in ground which, eight + days before, was covered with snow! + </p> + <p> + After having lived through the longest winter here, for one hundred and + fifty years, we were destined to witness the greatest flood for sixty, and + little lower than any within the last three hundred years. On the 28th of + March, the river overflooded the high pier along the Main, and rising + higher and higher, began to come into the gates and alleys. Before night + the whole bank was covered and the water intruded into some of the booths + in the Römerberg. When I went there the next morning, it was a sorrowful + sight. Persons were inside the gate with boats; so rapidly had it risen, + that many of the merchants had no time to move their wares, and must + suffer great damage. They were busy rescuing what property could bo seized + in the haste, and constructing passages into the houses which were + surrounded. No one seemed to think of buying or selling, but only on the + best method to escape the danger. Along the Main it was still worse. From + the measure, it had risen seventeen feet above its usual level, and the + arches of the bridge were filled nearly to the top. At the Upper-Main + gate, every thing was flooded—houses, gardens, workshops, &c.; + the water had even overrun the meadows above and attacked the city from + behind, so that a part of the beautiful promenades lay deep under water. + On the other side, we could see houses standing in it up to the roof. It + came up through the sewers into the middle of Frankfort; a large body of + men were kept at work constructing slight bridges to walk on, and + transporting boats to places where they were needed. This was all done at + the expense of the city; the greatest readiness was everywhere manifested + to render all possible assistance. In the Fischergasse, I saw them taking + provisions to the people in boats; one man even fastened a loaf of bread + to the end of a broomstick and reached it across the narrow street from an + upper story window, to the neighbor opposite. News came that Hausen, a + village towards the Taunus, about two miles distant, was quite under + water, and that the people clung to the roofs and cried for help; but it + was fortunately false. About noon, cannon shots were heard, and twenty + boats were sent out from the city. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon I ascended the tower of the Cathedral, which commands a + wide view of the valley, up and down. Just above the city the whole plain + was like a small lake—between two and three miles wide. A row of + new-built houses stretched into it like a long promontory, and in the + middle, like an island, stood a country-seat with large out-buildings. The + river sent a long arm out below, that reached up through the meadows + behind the city, as if to clasp it all and bear it away together. A heavy + storm was raging along the whole extent of the Taunus; but a rainbow stood + in the eastern sky. I thought of its promise, and hoped, for the sake of + the hundreds of poor people who were suffering by the waters, that it + might herald their fall. + </p> + <p> + We afterwards went over to Sachsenhausen, which was, if possible, in a + still more unfortunate condition. The water had penetrated the passages + and sewers, and from these leaped and rushed up into the streets, as out + of a fountain. The houses next to the Main, which were first filled, + poured torrents out of the doors and windows into the street below. These + people were nearly all poor, and could ill afford the loss of time and + damage of property it occasioned them. The stream was filled with wood and + boards, and even whole roofs, with the tiles on, went floating down. The + bridge was crowded with people; one saw everywhere mournful countenances, + and heard lamentations over the catastrophe. After sunset, a great cloud, + filling half the sky, hung above; the reflection of its glowing crimson + tint, joined to the brown hue of the water, made it seem like a river of + fire. + </p> + <p> + What a difference a little sunshine makes! I could have forgotten the + season the next day, but for the bare trees and swelling Main, as I + threaded my way through the hundreds of people who thronged its banks. It + was that soft warmth that comes with the first spring days, relaxing the + body and casting a dreamy hue over the mind. I leaned over the bridge in + the full enjoyment of it, and listening to the roaring of the water under + the arches, forgot every thing else for a time. It was amusing to walk up + and down the pier and look at the countenances passing by, while the + phantasy was ever ready, weaving a tale for all. My favorite Tyrolese were + there, and I saw a Greek leaning over the stone balustrade, wearing the + red cap and white frock, and with the long dark hair and fiery eye of the + Orient. I could not but wonder, as he looked at the dim hills of the + Odenwald, along the eastern horizon, whether they called up in his mind + the purple isles of his native Archipelago. + </p> + <p> + The general character of a nation is plainly stamped on the countenances + of its people. One who notices the faces in the streets, can soon + distinguish, by the glance he gives in going by, the Englishman or the + Frenchman from the German, and the Christian from the Jew. Not less + striking is the difference of expression between the Germans themselves; + and in places where all classes of people are drawn together, it is + interesting to observe how accurately these distinctions are drawn. The + boys have generally handsome, intelligent faces, and like all boys, they + are full of life and spirit, for they know nothing of the laws by which + their country is chained down, and would not care for them, if they did. + But with the exception of the students, who <i>talk</i>, at least, of + Liberty and Right, the young men lose this spirit and at last settle down + into the calm, cautious, <i>lethargic</i> citizen. One distinguishes an + Englishman and I should think an American, also, in this respect, very + easily; the former, moreover, by a certain cold stateliness and reserve. + There is something, however, about a Jew, whether English or German, which + marks him from all others. However different their faces, there is a + family character which runs through the whole of them. It lays principally + in their high cheek-bones, prominent nose and thin, compressed lips; + which, especially in elderly men, gives a peculiar miserly expression that + is unmistakeable. I regret to say, one looks almost in vain, in Germany, + for a handsome female countenance. Here and there, perhaps, is a woman + with regular features, but that intellectual expression, which gives such + a charm to the most common face, is wanting. I have seen more beautiful + women in one night, in a public assembly in America, than during the seven + months I have been on the Continent. Some of the young Jewesses, in + Frankfort, are considered handsome, but their features soon become too + strongly marked. In a public walk the number of positively ugly faces is + really astonishing. + </p> + <p> + About ten o'clock that night, I heard a noise of persons running in the + street, and going to the Römerberg, found the water had risen, all at + once, much higher, and was still rapidly increasing. People were setting + up torches and lengthening the rafts, which had been already formed. The + lower part of the city was a real Venice—the streets were full of + boats and people could even row about in their own houses; though it was + not quite so bad as the flood in Georgia, where they went <i>up stairs to + bed</i> in boats! I went to the bridge. Persons were calling around—"The + water! the water! it rises continually!" The river rushed through the + arches, foaming and dashing with a noise like thunder, and the red light + of the torches along the shore cost a flickering glare on the troubled + waves. It was then twenty-one feet above its usual level. Men were busy + all around, carrying boats and ladders to the places most threatened, or + emptying cellars into which it was penetrating. The sudden swelling was + occasioned by the coming down of the floods from the mountains of + Spessart. + </p> + <p> + Part of the upper quay cracked next morning and threatened to fall in, and + one of the projecting piers of the bridge sunk away from the main body + three or four inches. In Sachsenhausen the desolation occasioned by the + flood is absolutely frightful; several houses have fallen into total ruin. + All business was stopped for the day; the Exchange was even shut up. As + the city depends almost entirely on pumps for its supply of water, and + these were filled with the flood, we have been drinking the muddy current + of the Main ever since. The damage to goods is very great. The fair was + stopped at once, and the loss in this respect alone, must be several + millions of florins. The water began to fall on the 1st, and has now sunk + about ten feet, so that most of the houses are again released, though in a + bad condition. + </p> + <p> + Yesterday afternoon, as I was sitting in my room, writing, I heard all at + once an explosion like a cannon in the street, followed by loud and + continued screams. Looking out the window, I saw the people rushing by + with goods in their arms, some wringing their hands and crying, others + running in all directions. Imagining that it was nothing less than the + tumbling down of one of the old houses, we ran down and saw a store a few + doors distant in flames. The windows were bursting and flying out, and the + mingled mass of smoke and red flame reached half way across the street. We + learned afterwards it was occasioned by the explosion of a jar of naphtha, + which instantly enveloped the whole room in fire, the people barely + escaping in time. The persons who had booths near were standing still in + despair, while the flames were beginning to touch their property. A few + butchers who first came up, did almost everything. A fire engine arrived + soon, but it was ten minutes before it began to play, and by that time the + flames were coming out of the upper stories. Then the supply of water soon + failed, and though another engine came up shortly after, it was sometime + before it could be put in order, so that by the time they got fairly to + work, the fire had made its way nearly through the house. The water was + first brought in barrels drawn by horses, till some officer came and + opened the fire plug. The police were busy at work seizing those who came + by and setting them to work; and as the alarm had drawn a great many + together, they at last began to effect something. All the military are + obliged to bo out, and the officers appeared eager to use their authority + while they could, for every one was ordering and commanding, till all was + a scene of perfect confusion and uproar. I could not help laughing + heartily, so ludicrous did the scene appear. There were little, miserable + engines, not much bigger than a hand-cart, and looking as if they had not + been used for half a century, the horses running backwards and forwards, + dragging barrels which were emptied into tubs, after which the water was + finally dipped up in buckets, and emptied into the engines! These machines + can only play into the second or third story, after which the hose was + taken up in the houses on the opposite side of the street, and made to + play across. After four hours the fire was overcome, the house being + thoroughly burnt out; it happened to have double fire walls, which + prevented those adjoining from catching easily. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. — THE DEAD AND THE DEAF—MENDELSSOHN THE COMPOSER. + </h2> + <p> + It is now a luxury to breathe. These spring days are the perfection of + delightful weather. Imagine the delicious temperature of our Indian summer + joined to the life and freshness of spring, add to this a sky of the + purest azure, and a breeze filled with the odor of violets,—the most + exquisite of all perfumes—and you have some idea of it. The meadows + are beginning to bloom, and I have already heard the larks singing high up + in the sky. Those sacred birds, the storks, have returned and taken + possession of their old nests on the chimney-tops; they are sometimes seen + walking about in the fields, with a very grave and serious air, as if + conscious of the estimation in which they are held. Everybody is out in + the open air; the woods, although they still look wintry, are filled with + people, and the boatmen on the Main are busy ferrying gay parties across. + The spring has been so long in coming, that all are determined to enjoy it + well, while it lasts. + </p> + <p> + We visited the cemetery a few days ago. The dead-house, where corpses are + placed in the hope of resuscitation, is an appendage to cemeteries found + only in Germany. We were shown into a narrow chamber, on each side of + which were six cells, into which one could distinctly see, by means of a + large plate of glass. In each of these is a bier for the body, directly + above which hangs a cord, having on the end ten thimbles, which are put + upon the fingers of the corpse, so that the slightest motion strikes a + bell in the watchman's room. Lamps are lighted at night, and in winter the + rooms are warmed. In the watchman's chamber stands a clock with a + dial-plate of twenty-four hours, and opposite every hour is a little + plate, which can only be moved two minutes before it strikes. If then the + watchman has slept or neglected his duty at that time, he cannot move it + afterwards, and his neglect, is seen by the superintendent. In such a + case, he is severely lined, and for the second or third offence, + dismissed. There are other rooms adjoining, containing beds, baths, + galvanic battery, &c. Nevertheless, they say there has been no + resuscitation during the fifteen years it has been established. + </p> + <p> + We afterwards went to the end of the cemetery to see the bas-reliefs of + Thorwaldsen, in the vault of the Bethmann family. They are three in + number, representing the death of a son of the present banker, Moritz von + Bethmann, who was drowned in the Arno about fourteen years ago. The middle + one represents the young man drooping in his chair, the beautiful Greek + Angel of Death standing at his back, with one arm over his shoulder, while + his younger brother is sustaining him, and receiving the wreath that drops + from his sinking hand. The young woman who showed us these, told us of + Thorwaldsen's visit to Frankfort, about three years ugo. She described him + as a beautiful and venerable old man, with long white locks hanging over + his shoulders, still vigorous and active for his years. There seems to + have been much resemblance between him and Dannecker—not only in + personal appearance and character, but, in the simple and classical beauty + of their works. + </p> + <p> + The cemetery contains many other monuments; with the exception of one or + two by Launitz, and an exquisite Death Angel in sandstone, from a young + Frankfort sculptor, they are not remarkable. The common tomb-stone is a + white wooden cross; opposite the entrance is a perfect forest of them, + involuntarily reminding one of a company of ghosts, with outstretched + arms. These contain the names of the deceased with mottoes, some of which + are beautiful and touching, as for instance: "<i>Through darkness unto + light</i>;" "<i>Weep not for her; she is not dead, but sleepeth</i>" "<i>Slumber + sweet!</i>" etc. The graves are neatly bordered with grass, and planted + with flowers, and many of the crosses have withered wreathes hanging upon + them. In summer it is a beautiful place; in fact, the very name of + cemetery in German—<i>Friedhuf</i> or Court of Peace—takes + away the idea of death; the beautiful figure of the youth, with his + inverted torch, makes one think of the grave only us a place of repose. + </p> + <p> + On our way back we stopped at the Institute for the Deaf; for by the new + method of teaching they are no longer dumb. It is a handsome building in + the gardens skirting the city. We applied, and on learning we were + strangers, they gave us permission to enter. On finding we were Americans, + the instructress immediately spoke of Dr. Howe, who had visited the + Institute a year or two before, and was much pleased to find that Mr. + Dennett was acquainted with him. She took us into a room where about + fifteen small children were assembled, and addressing one of the girls, + said in a distinct tone: "These gentlemen are from America; the deaf + children there speak with their fingers—canst thou speak so?" To + which the child answered distinctly, but with some effort: "No, we speak + with our mouths." She then spoke to several others with the same success; + one of the boys in particular, articulated with astonishing success. It + was interesting to watch their countenances, which were alive with eager + attention, and to see the apparent efforts they made to utter the words. + They spoke in a monotonous tone, slowly and deliberately, but their voices + had a strange, sepulchral sound, which was at first unpleasant to the ear. + I put one or two questions to a little boy, which he answered quite + readily; as I was a foreigner, this was the best test that could be given + of the success of the method. We conversed afterwards with the director, + who received us kindly, and appointed a day for us to come and witness the + system more fully. He spoke of Dr. Howe and Horace Mann, of Boston, and + seemed to take a great interest in the introduction of his system in + America. + </p> + <p> + We went again at the appointed time, and as their drawing teacher was + there, we had an opportunity of looking over their sketches, which were + excellent. The director showed us the manner of teaching them, with a + looking-glass, in which they were shown the different positions of the + organs of the mouth, and afterwards made to feel the vibrations of the + throat and breast, produced by the sound. He took one of the youngest + scholars, covered her eyes, and placing her hand upon his throat, + articulated the second sound of A. She followed him, making the sound + softer or louder as he did. All the consonants were made distinctly, by + placing her hand before his mouth. Their exercises in reading, speaking + with one another, and writing from dictation, succeeded perfectly. He + treated them all like his own children, and sought by jesting and playing, + to make the exercise appear as sport. They call him father and appear to + be much attached to him. + </p> + <p> + One of the pupils, about fourteen years old, interested me through his + history. lie and his sister were found in Sachsenhausen, by a Frankfort + merchant, in a horrible condition. Their mother had died about two years + and a half before, and during all that time their father had neglected + them till they were near dead through privation and filth. The boy was + placed in this Institute, and the girl in that of the Orphans. He soon + began to show a talent for modelling figures, and for some time he has + been taking lessons of the sculptor Launitz. I saw a beautiful copy of a + bas-relief of Thorwaldsen which he made, as well as an original, very + interesting, from its illustration of his history. It was in two parts; + the first represented himself and his sister, kneeling in misery before a + ruined family altar, by which an angel was standing, who took him by one + hand, while with the other he pointed to his benefactor, standing near. + The other represented the two kneeling in gratitude before a restored + altar, on which was the anchor of Hope. From above streamed down a light, + where two angels were rejoicing over their happiness. For a boy of + fourteen, deprived of one of the most valuable senses, and taken from such + a horrible condition of life, it is a surprising work and gives brilliant + hopes for his future. + </p> + <p> + We went lately into the Roemerberg, to see the Kaisersaal and the other + rooms formerly used by the old Emperors of Germany, and their Senates. The + former is now in the process of restoration. The ceiling is in the + gorgeous illuminated style of the middle ages; along each side arc rows of + niches for the portraits of the Emperors, which have been painted by the + best artists in Berlin, Dresden, Vienna and Munich. It is remarkable that + the number of the old niches in the hall should exactly correspond with + the number of the German Emperors, so that the portrait of the Emperor + Francis of Austria, who was the last, will close the long rank coming down + from Charlemagne. The pictures, or at least such of them as are already + finished, are kept in another room; they give one a good idea of the + changing styles of royal costumes, from the steel shirt and helmet to the + jewelled diadem and velvet robe. I looked with interest on a painting of + Frederic Barbarossa, by Leasing, and mused over the popular tradition that + he sits with his paladins in a mountain cave under the Castle of + Kyffhäuser, ready to come forth and assist his Fatherland in the hour of + need. There was the sturdy form of Maximilian; the martial Conrad; and + Ottos, Siegfrieds and Sigismunds in plenty—many of whom moved a + nation in their day, but are now dust and forgotten. + </p> + <p> + I yesterday visited Mendelssohn, the celebrated composer. Having heard + rame of his music this winter, particularly that magnificent creation, the + "Walpurgisnacht," I wished to obtain his autograph before leaving, and + sent a note for that purpose. He sent a kind note in answer, adding a + chorus out of the Walpurgisnacht from his own hand. After this, I could + not repress the desire of speaking with him. lie received me with true + German cordiality, and on learning I was an American, spoke of having been + invited to attend a musical festival in New York. He invited me to call on + him if he happened to bo in Leipsic or Dresden when we should pass + through, and spoke particularly of the fine music there. I have rarely + seen a man whose countenance bears so plainly the stamp of genius. He has + a glorious dark eye, and Byron's expression of a "dome of thought," could + never be more appropriately applied than to his lofty and intellectual + forehead, the marble whiteness and polish of which arc heightened by the + raven hue of his hair. He is about forty years of age, in the noon of his + fame and the full maturity of his genius. Already as a boy of fourteen he + composed an opera, which was played with much success at Berlin; he is now + the first living composer of Germany. Moses Mendelssohn, the celebrated + Jewish philosopher, was his grandfather; and his father, now living, is + accustomed to say that in his youth he was spoken of as the son of the + great Mendelssohn; now he is known as the father of the great Mendelssohn! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. — JOURNEY ON FOOT FROM FRANKFORT TO CASSEL. + </h2> + <p> + The day for leaving Frankfort came at last, and I bade adieu to the + gloomy, antique, but still quaint and pleasant city. I felt like leaving a + second home, so much had the memories of many delightful hours spent there + attached me to it: I shall long retain the recollection of its dark old + streets, its massive, devil-haunted bridge and the ponderous cathedral, + telling of the times of the Crusaders. I toiled up the long hill on the + road to Friedberg, and from the tower at the top took a last look at the + distant city, with a heart heavier than the knapsack whose unaccustomed + weight rested uneasily on my shoulders. Being alone—starting out + into the wide world, where us yet I know no one,—I felt much deeper + what it was to find friends in a strange land. But such is the wanderer's + lot. + </p> + <p> + We had determined on making the complete tour of Germany on foot, and in + order to vary it somewhat, my friend and I proposed taking different + routes from Frankfort to Leipsic. He choose a circuitous course, by way of + Nuremberg and the Thuringian forests; while I, whose fancy had been + running wild with Goethe's witches, preferred looking on the gloom and + grandeur of the rugged Hartz. We both left Frankfort on the 23d of April, + each bearing a letter of introduction to the same person in Leipsic, where + we agreed to meet in fourteen days. As we were obliged to travel as + cheaply as possible, I started with but seventynine florins, (a florin is + forty cents American) well knowing that if I took more, I should, in all + probability, spend proportionally more also. Thus, armed with my passport, + properly <i>visèd</i>, a knapsack weighing fifteen pounds and a cane from + the Kentucky Mammoth Cave, I began my lonely walk through Northern + Germany. The warm weather of the week before had brought out the foliage + of the willows and other early trees—violets and cowslips were + springing up in the meadows. Keeping along the foot of the Taunus, I + passed over great, broad hills, which were brown with the spring + ploughing, and by sunset reached Friedberg—a, largo city, on the + summit of a hill. The next morning, after sketching its old, baronial + castle, I crossed the meadows to Nauheim, to see the salt springs there. + They are fifteen in number; the water, which is very warm, rushes up with + such force as to leap several feet above the earth. The buildings made for + evaporation are nearly two miles in length; a walk along the top gives a + delightful view of the surrounding valleys. After reaching the <i>chaussée</i> + again, I was hailed by a wandering journeyman, or <i>handwerker</i>, as + they are called, who wanted company. As I had concluded to accept all + offers of this kind, we trudged along together very pleasantly, He was + from Holstein, on the borders of Denmark and was just returning home, + after an absence of six years, having escaped from Switzerland after the + late battle of Luzerne, which he had witnessed. He had his knapsack and + tools fastened on two wheels, which he drew after him quite conveniently. + I could not help laughing at the adroit manner in which he begged his way + along, through every village. He would ask me to go on and wait for him at + the other end; after a few minutes he followed, with a handful of small + copper money, which he said he had <i>fought for</i>,—the + handworker's term for <i>begged.</i> + </p> + <p> + We passed over long ranges of hills, with an occasional view of the + Vogelsgebirge, or Bird's Mountains, far to the cast. I knew at length, by + the pointed summits of the hills, that we were approaching Giessen and the + valley of the Lahn. Finally, two sharp peaks appeared in the distance, + each crowned with a picturesque fortress, while the spires of Giessen rose + from the valley below. Parting from my companion, I passed through the + city without stopping, for it was the time of the university vacation, and + Dr. Liebeg, the world-renowned chemist, whom I desired to see, was absent. + </p> + <p> + Crossing a hill or two, I came down into the valley of the Lahn, which + flows through meadows of the brightest green, with redroofed cottages + nestled among gardens and orchards upon its banks. The women here wear a + remarkable costume, consisting of a red boddice with white sleeves, and a + dozen skirts, one above another, reaching only to the knees. I slept again + at a little village among the hills, and started early for Marburg. The + meadows were of the purest emerald, through which the stream wound its + way, with even borders, covered to the water's edge with grass so smooth + and velvety, that a fairy might have danced along on it for miles without + stumbling over an uneven tuft. This valley is one of the finest districts + in Germany. I thought, as I saw the peaceful inhabitants at work in their + fields, I had most probably, on the battle-field of Brandywine, walked + over the bones of some of their ancestors, whom a despotic prince had torn + from their happy homes, to die in a distant land, fighting against the + cause of freedom. + </p> + <p> + I now entered directly into the heart of Hesse Cassel. The country + resembled a collection of hills thrown together in confusion—sometimes + a wide plain left between them, sometimes a clustre of wooded peaks, and + here and there a single pointed summit rising above the rest. The vallies + were green as ever, the hill-sides freshly ploughed and the forests + beginning to be colored by the tender foliage of the larch and birch. I + walked two or three hours at a "stretch," and then, when I could find a + dry, shady bank, I would rest for half an hour and finish some hastily + sketched landscape, or lay at full length, with my head on my knapsack, + and peruse the countenances of those passing by. The observation which + every traveller excites, soon ceases to be embarrassing. It was at first + extremely unpleasant; but I am now so hardened, that the strange, magnetic + influence of the human eye, which we cannot avoid feeling, passes by me as + harmlessly as if turned aside by invisible mail. + </p> + <p> + During the day several showers came by, but as none of them penetrated + further than my blouse, I kept on, and reached about sunset a little + village in the valley. I chose a small inn, which had an air of neatness + about it, and on going in, the tidy landlady's "be you welcome," as she + brought a pair of slippers for my swollen feet, made me feel quite at + home. After being furnished with eggs, milk, butter and bread, for supper, + which I ate while listening to an animated discussion between the village + schoolmaster and some farmers, I was ushered into a clean, sanded bedroom, + and soon forgot all fatigue. For this, with breakfast in the morning, the + bill was six and a half groschen—about sixteen cents! Tin air was + freshened by the rain and I journeyed over the hills at a rapid rate. + Stopping for dinner at the large village of Wabern, a boy at the inn asked + me if I was going to America? I said no, I came from there. He then asked + me many silly questions, after which he ran out and told the people of the + village. When I set out again, the children pointed at me and cried: "see + there! he is from America!" and the men took off their hats and bowed! + </p> + <p> + The sky was stormy, which added to the gloom of the hills around, though + some of the distant ranges lay in mingled light and shade—the + softest alternation of purple and brown. There were many isolated, rocky + hills, two of which interested me, through their attendant legends. One is + said to have been the scene of a battle between the Romans and Germans, + where, after a long conflict the rock opened and swallowed up the former. + The other, which is crowned with a rocky wall, so like a ruined fortress, + as at a distance to be universally mistaken for one, tradition says is the + death-place of Charlemagne, who still walks around its summit every night, + clad in complete armor. On ascending a hill late in the afternoon, I saw + at a great distance the statue of Hercules, which stands on the + Wilhelmshöhe, near Cassel. Night set in with a dreary rain, and I stopped + at an inn about five miles short of the city. While tea was preparing a + company of students came in and asked for a separate room. Seeing I was + alone, they invited me up with them. They seemed much interested in + America, and leaving the table gradually, formed a ring around me, where I + had enough to do to talk with them all at once. When the omnibus came + along, the most of them went with it to Cassel; but five remained and + persuaded me to set out with them on foot. They insisted on carrying my + knapsack the whole way, through the rain and darkness, and when I had + passed the city gate with them, unchallenged, conducted me to the + comfortable hotel, "<i>Zur Krone</i>." + </p> + <p> + It is a pleasant thing to wake up in the morning in a strange city. Every + thing is new; you walk around it for the first time in the full enjoyment + of the novelty, or the not less agreeable feeling of surprise, if it is + different from your anticipations. Two of my friends of the previous night + called for me in the morning, to show me around the city, and the first + impression, made in such agreeable company, prepossessed me very + favorably. I shall not, however, take up time in describing its many + sights, particularly the Frederick's Platz, where the statue of Frederick + the Second, who sold ten thousand of his subjects to England, has been + re-erected, after having lain for years in a stable where it was thrown by + the French. + </p> + <p> + I was much interested in young Carl K——, one of my new + acquaintances. His generous and unceasing kindness first won my esteem, + and I found on nearer acquaintance, the qualities of his mind equal those + of his heart. I saw many beautiful poems of his which were of remarkable + merit, considering his youth, and thought I could read in his dark, dreamy + eye, the unconscious presentiment of a power he does not yet possess. He + seemed as one I had known for years. + </p> + <p> + He, with a brother student, accompanied me in the afternoon, to + Wilhelmshöhe, the summer residence of the Prince, on the side of a range + of mountains three miles west of the city. The road leads in a direct line + to the summit of the mountain, which is thirteen hundred feet in height, + surmounted by a great structure, called the Giant's Castle, on the summit + of which is a pyramid ninety-six feet high, supporting a statue of + Hercules, copied after the Farnese, and thirty-one feet in height. By a + gradual ascent through beautiful woods, we reached the princely residence, + a magnificent mansion standing on a natural terrace of the mountain. Near + it is a little theatre built by Jerome Buonaparte, in which he himself + used to play. We looked into the green house in passing, where the floral + splendor of every zone was combined. There were lofty halls, with glass + roofs, where the orange grew to a great tree, and one could sit in myrtle + bowers, with the brilliant bloom of the tropics around him. It was the + only thing there I was guilty of coveting. + </p> + <p> + The greatest curiosity is the water-works, which are perhaps unequalled in + the world. The Giant's Castle on the summit contains an immense tank in + which water is kept for the purpose; but unfortunately, at the time I was + there, the pipes, which had been frozen through the winter, were not in + condition to play. From the summit an inclined plane of masonry descends + the mountain nine hundred feet, broken every one hundred and fifty feet by + perpendicular descents. These are the Cascades, down which the water first + rushes from the tank. After being again collected in a great basin at the + bottom, it passes into an aqueduct, built like a Roman ruin, and goes over + beautiful arches through the forest, where it falls in one sheet down a + deep precipice. When it has descended several other beautiful falls, made + in exact imitation of nature, it is finally collected and forms the great + fountain, which rises twelve inches in diameter from the middle of a lake + to the height of one hundred and ninety feet! We descended by lovely walks + through the forest to the Löwenburg, built as the ruin of a knightly + castle, and fitted out in every respect to correspond with descriptions of + a fortress in the olden time, with moat, drawbridge, chapel and garden of + pyramidal trees. Farther below, are a few small houses, inhabited by the + descendants of the Hessians who fell in America, supported here at the + Prince's expense! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. — ADVENTURES AMONG THE HARTZ. + </h2> + <p> + On taking leave of Carl at the gate over the Göttingen road, I felt + tempted to bestow a malediction upon traveling, from its merciless + breaking of all links, as soon as formed. It was painful to think we + should meet no more. The tears started into his eyes, and feeling a mist + gathering over mine, I gave his hand a parting pressure, turned my back + upon Cassel and started up the long mountain, at a desperate rate. On the + summit I passed out of Hesse into Hanover, and began to descend the + remaining six miles. The road went down by many windings, but I shortened + the way considerably by a foot-path through a mossy old forest. The hills + bordering the Weser are covered with wood, through which I saw the little + red-roofed city of Münden, at the bottom. I stopped there for the night, + and next morning walked around the place. It is one of the old German + cities that have not yet felt the effect of the changing spirit of the + age. It is still walled, though the towers are falling to ruin. The + streets are narrow, crooked, and full of ugly old houses, and to stand in + the little square before the public buildings, one would think himself + born in the sixteenth century. Just below the city the Werra and Fulda + unito and form the Weser. The triangular point has been made into a public + walk, and the little steamboat was lying at anchor near, waiting to start + for Bremen. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon I got into the omnibus for Göttingen. The ride over the + wild, dreary, monotonous hills was not at all interesting. There were two + other passengers inside, one of whom, a grave, elderly man, took a great + interest in America, but the conversation was principally on his side, for + I had been taken with a fever in Münden. I lay crouched up in the corner + of the vehicle, trying to keep off the chills which constantly came over + me, and wishing only for Göttingen, that I might obtain medicine and a + bed. We reached it at last, and I got out with my knapsack and walked + wearily through half a dozen streets till I saw an inn. But on entering, I + found it so dark and dirty and unfriendly, that I immediately went out + again and hired the first pleasant looking boy I met, to take me to a good + hotel. He conducted me to the first one in the city. I felt a trepidation + of pocket, but my throbbing head plead more powerfully, so I ordered a + comfortable room and a physician. The host, Herr Wilhelm, sent for + Professor Trefurt, of the University, who told me I had over-exerted + myself in walking. He made a second call the next day, when, as he was + retiring, I inquired the amount of his fee. He begged to be excused and + politely bowed himself out. I inquired the meaning of this of Herr + Wilhelm, who said it was customary for travellers to leave what they chose + for the physician, as there was no regular fee. He added, moreover, that + twenty groschen, or about sixty cents, was sufficient for the two visits! + </p> + <p> + I stayed in Göttingen two dull, dreary, miserable days, without getting + much better. I took but one short walk through the city, in which I saw + the outsides of a few old churches and got a hard fall on the pavement. + Thinking that the <i>cause</i> of my illness might perhaps become its <i>cure</i>, + I resolved to go on rather than remain in the melancholy—in spite of + its black-eyed maidens, melancholy—Göttingen. On the afternoon of + the second day, I took the post to Nordheim, about twelve miles distant. + The Göttingen valley, down which we drove, is green and beautiful, and the + trees seem to have come out all at once. we were not within sight of the + Hartz, but the mountains along the Weser were visible on the left. The + roads were extremely muddy from the late rains, so that I proceeded but + slowly. + </p> + <p> + A blue range along the horizon told me of the Hartz, as I passed; although + there were some fine side-glimpses through the hills, I did not see much + of them till I reached Osterode, about twelve miles further. Here the + country begins to assume a different aspect. The city lies in a narrow + valley, and as the road goes down a steep hill towards it, one sees on + each side many quarries of gypsum, and in front the gloomy pine mountains + are piled one above another in real Alpine style. But alas! the city, + though it looks exceedingly romantic from above, is one of the dirtiest I + ever saw. I stopped at Herzberg, six miles farther, for the night. The + scenery was very striking; and its effect was much heightened by a sky + full of black clouds, which sent down a hail-storm as they passed over. + The hills are covered with pine, fir and larch. The latter tree, in its + first foliage, is most delicate and beautiful. Every bough is like a long + ostrich plume, and when one of them stands among the dark pines, it seems + so light and airy that the wind might carry it away. Just opposite + Herzberg, the Hartz stands in its gloomy and mysterious grandeur, and I + went to sleep with the pleasant thought that an hour's walk on the morrow + would shut me up in its deep recesses. + </p> + <p> + The next morning I entered them. The road led up a narrow mountain valley, + down which a stream was rushing—on all sides were magnificent + forests of pine. It was glorious to look down their long aisles, dim and + silent, with a floor of thick green moss. There was just room enough for + the road and the wild stream which wound its way zigzag between the hills, + affording the most beautiful mountain-view along the whole route. As I + ascended, the mountains became rougher and wilder, and in the shady + hollows were still drifts of snow. Enjoying every thing very much, I + walked on without taking notice of the road, and on reaching a wild, rocky + chasm called the "Schlucht," was obliged to turn aside and take a footpath + over a high mountain to Andreasberg, a town built on a summit two thousand + feet above the sea. It is inhabited almost entirely by the workmen in the + mines. + </p> + <p> + The way from Andreasberg to the Brocken leads along the Rehberger Graben, + which carry water about six miles for the oreworks. After going through a + thick pine wood, I came out on the mountain-side, where rough crags + overhung the way above, and through the tops of the trees I had glimpses + into the gorge below. It was scenery of the wildest character. Directly + opposite rose a mountain wall, dark and stern through the gloomy sky; far + below the little stream of the Oder foamed over the rocks with a continual + roar, and one or two white cloud-wreaths were curling up from the forests. + </p> + <p> + I followed the water-ditch around every projection of the mountain, still + ascending higher amid the same wild scenery, till at length I reached the + Oderteich, a great dam, in a kind of valley formed by some mountain peaks + on the side of the Brocken. It has a breastwork of granite, very firm, and + furnishes a continual supply of water for the works. It began to rain + soon, and I took a foot-path which went winding up through the pine wood. + The storm still increased, till everything was cloud and rain, so I was + obliged to stop about five o'clock at Oderbruch, a toll-house and tavern + on the side of the Brocken, on the boundary between Brunswick and Hanover—the + second highest inhabited house in the Hartz. The Brocken was invisible + through the storm and the weather forboded a difficult ascent. The night + was cold, but by a warm fire I let the winds howl and the rain beat. When + I awoke the next morning, we were in clouds. They were thick on every + side, hiding what little view there was through the openings of the + forest. After breakfast, however, they were somewhat thinner, and I + concluded to start for the Brocken. It is not the usual way for travellers + who ascend, being not only a bad road but difficult to find, as I soon + discovered. The clouds gathered around again after I set out, and I was + obliged to walk in a storm of mingled rain and snow. The snow lay several + feet deep in the forests, and the path was, in many places, quite drifted + over. The white cloud-masses were whirled past by the wind, continually + enveloping me and shutting out every view. During the winter the path had + become, in ninny places, the bed of a mountain torrent, so that I was + obliged sometimes to wade kneedeep in snow, and sometimes to walk over the + wet, spongy moss, crawling under the long, dripping branches of the + stunted pines. After a long time of such dreary travelling, I came to two + rocks called the Stag Horns, standing on a little peak. The storm, now all + snow, blew more violently than ever, and the path became lost under the + deep drifts. + </p> + <p> + Comforting myself with the assurance that if I could not find it, I could + at least make my way back, I began searching, and after some time, came + upon it again. Here the forest ceased; the way led on large stones over a + marshy ascending plain, but what was above, or on either side, I could not + see. It was solitude of the most awful kind. There was nothing but the + storm, which had already wet me through, and the bleak gray waste of + rocks. It grew sleeper and steeper; I could barely trace the path by the + rocks which were worn, and the snow threatened soon to cover these. Added + to this, although the walking and fresh mountain air had removed my + illness, I was still weak from the effects of it, and the consequences of + a much longer exposure to the storm were greatly to be feared. I was + wondering if the wind increased at the same rate, how much longer it would + be before I should be carried off, when suddenly something loomed up above + me through the storm. A few steps more and I stood beside the Brocken + House, on the very summit of the mountain! The mariner, who has been + floating for days on a wreck at sea, could scarcely be more rejoiced at a + friendly sail, than I was on entering the low building. Two large Alpine + dogs in the passage, as I walked in, dripping with wet, gave notice to the + inmates, and I was soon ushered into a warm room, where I changed my + soaked garments for dry ones, and sat down by the fire with feelings of + comfort not easily imagined. The old landlord was quite surprised, on + hearing the path by which I came, that I found the way at all. The summit + was wrapped in the thickest cloud, and he gave me no hope for several + hours of any prospect at all, so I sat down and looked over the Stranger's + Album. + </p> + <p> + I saw but two names from the United States—B.F. Atkins, of Boston, + and C.A. Hay, from York, Pa. There were a great many long-winded German + poems—among them, one by Schelling, the philosopher. Some of them + spoke of having seen the "Spectre of the Brocken." I inquired of the + landlord about the phenomenon; he says in winter it is frequently seen, in + summer more seldom. The cause is very simple. It is always seen at + sunrise, when the eastern side of the Brocken is free from clouds, and at + the same time, the mist rises from the valley on the opposite side. The + shadow of every thing on the Brocken is then thrown in grand proportions + upon the mist, and is seen surrounded with a luminous halo. It is somewhat + singular that such a spectacle can be seen upon the Brocken alone, but + this is probably accounted for by the formation of the mountain, which + collects the mist at just such a distance from the summit as to render the + shadow visible. + </p> + <p> + Soon after dinner the storm subsided and the clouds separated a little. I + could see down through the rifts on the plains of Brunswick, and + sometimes, when they opened a little more, the mountains below us to the + east and the adjoining plains, as far as Magdeburg. It was like looking on + the earth from another planet, or from some point in the air which had no + connection, with it; our station was completely surrounded by clouds, + rolling in great masses around us, now and then giving glimpses through + their openings of the blue plains, dotted with cities and villages, far + below. At one time when they were tolerably well separated, I ascended the + tower, fifty feet high, standing near the Brocken House. The view on three + sides was quite clear, and I can easily imagine what a magnificent + prospect it must be in fine weather. The Brocken is only about four + thousand feet high, nearly the same as the loftiest peak of the Catskill, + but being the highest mountain in Northern Germany, it commands a more + extensive prospect. Imagine a circle described with a radius of a hundred + miles, comprising thirty cities, two or three hundred villages and one + whole mountain district! We could see Brunswick and Magdeburg, and beyond + them the great plain which extends to the North Sea in one direction and + to Berlin in the other, while directly below us lay the dark mountains of + the Hartz, with little villages in their sequestered valleys. It was but a + few moments I could look on this scene—in an instant the clouds + swept together again and completely hid it. In accordance with a custom of + the mountain, one of the girls made me a "Brocken nosegay," of heather, + lichens and moss. I gave her a few pfennings and stowed it away carefully + in a corner of my knapsack. + </p> + <p> + I now began descending the east side, by a good road over fields of bare + rock and through large forests of pine. Two or three bare brown peaks rose + opposite with an air of the wildest sublimity, and in many places through + the forest towered lofty crags. This is the way by which Goethe brings + Faust up the Brocken, and the scenery is graphically described in that + part of the poem. At the foot of the mountain is the little village of + Schiercke, the highest in the Hartz. Here I took a narrow path through the + woods, and after following a tediously long road over the hills, reached + Elbingerode, where I spent the night, and left the next morning for + Blankenburg. I happened to take the wrong road, however, and went through + Rubeland, a little village in the valley of the Bode. There are many iron + works here, and two celebrated caves, called "Baumann's Höhle," and + "Biel's Höhle." I kept on through the gray, rocky hills to Huttenrode, + where I inquired the way to the Rosstrappe, but was directed wrong, and + after walking nearly two hours in a heavy rain, arrived at Ludwigshütte, + on the Bode, in one of the wildest and loneliest corners of the Hartz. I + dried my wet clothes at a little inn, ate a dinner of bread and milk, and + learning that I was just as far from the Rosstrappe as ever, and that the + way was impossible to find alone, I hunted up a guide. + </p> + <p> + We went over the mountains through a fine old forest, for about two hours, + and came out on the brow of a hill near the end of the Hartz, with a + beautiful view of the country below and around. Passing the little inn, + the path led through thick bushes along the summit, over a narrow ledge of + rocks that seemed to stretch out into the air, for on either side the foot + of the precipice vanished in the depth below. + </p> + <p> + Arrived at last at the end, I looked around me. What a spectacle! I was + standing on the end of a line of precipice which ran out from the mountain + like a wall for several hundred feet—the hills around rising up + perpendicularly from the gorge below, where the Bode pressed into a narrow + channel foamed its way through. Sharp masses of gray rock rose up in many + places from the main body like pillars, with trees clinging to the clefts, + and although the defile was near seven hundred feet deep, the summits, in + one place, were very near to one another. Near the point at which I stood, + which was secured by a railing, was an impression in the rock like the + hoof of a giant horse, from which the place takes its name. It is very + distinct and perfect, and nearly two feet in length. + </p> + <p> + I went back to the little inn and sat down to rest and chat awhile with + the talkative landlady. Notwithstanding her horrible Prussian dialect, I + was much amused with the budget of wonders, which she keeps for the + information of travelers. Among other things, she related to me the legend + of the Rosstrappe, which I give in her own words: "A great many hundred + years ago, when there were plenty of giants through the world, there was a + certain beautiful princess, who was very much loved by one of them. Now, + although the parents of this princess were afraid of the giant, and wanted + her to marry him, she herself hated him, because she was in love with a + brave knight. But, you see, the brave knight could do nothing against the + great giant, and so a day was appointed for the wedding of the princess. + When they were married, the giant had a great feast and he and all his + servants got drunk. So the princess mounted his black horse and rode away + over the mountains, till she reached this valley. She stood on that square + rock which you see there opposite to us, and when she saw her knight on + this side, where we are, she danced for joy, and the rock is called the <i>Tanzplatz</i>, + to this very day. But when the giant found she had gone, he followed her + as fast as he might; then a holy bishop, who saw the princess, blessed the + feet of her horse, and she jumped on it across to this side, where his + fore feet made two marks in the rock, though there is only one left now. + You should not laugh at this, for if there were giants then, there must + have been very big horses too, as one can see from the hoofmark, and the + valley was narrower then than it is now. My dear man, who is very old now, + (you see him through the bushes, there, digging,) says it was so when he + was a child, and that the old people living then, told him there were once + four just such hoof-tracks, on the <i>Tanzplatz</i>, where the horse stood + before he jumped over. And we cannot doubt the words of the good old + people, for there were many strange things then, we all know, which the + dear Lord does not let happen now. But I must tell you, lieber Herr, that + the giant tried to jump after her and fell away down into the valley, + where they say he lives yet in the shape of a big black dog, guarding the + crown of the princess, which fell off as she was going over. But this part + of the story is perhaps not true, as nobody, that I ever heard of, has + seen either the black dog or the crown!" + </p> + <p> + After listening to similar gossip for a while, I descended the + mountain-side, a short distance to the Bülowshöhe. This is a rocky shaft + that shoots, upward from the mountain, having from its top a glorious view + through the door which the Bode makes in passing out of the Hartz. I could + see at a great distance the towers of Magdeburg, and further, the vast + plain stretching away like a sea towards Berlin. From Thale, the village + below, where the air was warmer than in the Hartz and the fruit-trees + already in blossom, it was four hours' walk to Halberstadt, by a most + tiresome road over long ranges of hills, all ploughed and planted, and + extending as far as the eye could reach, without a single fence or hedge. + It is pleasant to look over scenes where nature is so free and unshackled; + but the <i>people</i>, alas! wear the fetters. The setting sun, which + lighted up the old Brocken and his snowy top, showed me also Halberstadt, + the end of my Hartz journey; but its deceitful towers fled as I + approached, and I was half dead with fatigue on arriving there. + </p> + <p> + The ghostly, dark and echoing castle of an inn (the Black Eagle) where I + stopped, was enough to inspire a lonely traveller, like myself, with + unpleasant fancies. It looked heavy and massive enough to have been a + stout baron's stronghold in some former century; the taciturn landlord and + his wife, who, with a solemn servant girl, were the only tenants, had + grown into perfect keeping with its gloomy character. When I groped my way + under the heavy, arched portal into the guests' room—a large, lofty, + cheerless hall—all was dark, and I could barely perceive, by the + little light which came through two deep-set windows, the inmates of the + house, sitting on opposite sides of the room. After some delay, the + hostess brought a light. I entreated her to bring me something <i>instantly</i> + for supper, and in half an hour she placed a mixture on the table, the + like of which I never wish to taste again. She called it <i>beer-soup</i>! + I found, on examination, it was <i>beer</i>, boiled with meat, and + seasoned strongly with pepper and salt! My hunger disappeared, and + pleading fatigue as an excuse for want of appetite, I left the table. When + I was ready to retire, the landlady, who had been sitting silently in a + dark corner, called the solemn servant girl, who took up a dim lamp, and + bade me follow her to the "sleeping chamber." Taking up my knapsack and + staff, I stumbled down the steps into the arched gateway; before me was a + long, damp, deserted court-yard, across which the girl took her way. I + followed her with some astonishment, imagining where the sleeping chamber + could be, when she stopped at a small, one-story building, standing alone + in the yard. Opening the door with a rusty key, she led me into a bare + room, a few feet square, opening into another, equally bare, with the + exception of a rough bed. "Certainly," said I, "I am not to sleep here!" + "Yes," she answered, "this is the sleeping chamber," at the same time + setting down the light and disappearing. I examined the place—it + smelt mouldy, and the walls were cold and damp; there had been a window at + the head of the bed, but it was walled up, and that at the foot was also + closed to within a few inches of the top. The bed was course and dirty; + and on turning down the ragged covers, I saw with horror, a dark brown + stain near the pillow, like that of blood! For a moment I hesitated + whether to steal out of the inn, and seek another lodging, late as it was; + at last, overcoming my fears, I threw my clothes into a heap, and lay + down, placing my heavy staff at the head of the bed. Persons passed up and + down the courtyard several times, the light of their lamps streaming + through the narrow aperture up against the ceiling, and I distinctly heard + voices, which seemed to be near the door. Twice did I sit up in bed, + breathless, with my hand on the cane, in the most intense anxiety; but + fatigue finally overcame suspicion, and I sank into a deep sleep, from + which I was gladly awakened by daylight. In reality, there may have been + no cause for my fears—I may have wronged the lonely innkeepers by + them; but certainly no place or circumstances ever seemed to me more + appropriate to a deed of robbery or crime. I left immediately, and when a + turn in the street hid the ill-omened front of the inn, I began to breathe + with my usual freedom. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. — NOTES IN LEIPSIC AND DRESDEN. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Leipsic, May 8.</i>—I have now been nearly two days in this + wide-famed city, and the more I see of it the better I like it. It is a + pleasant, friendly town, old enough to be interesting, and new enough to + be comfortable. There in much active business life, through which it is + fast increasing in size and beauty. Its publishing establishments are the + largest in the world, and its annual fairs attended by people from all + parts of Europe. This is much for a city to accomplish, situated alone in + the middle of a great plain, with no natural charms of scenery or + treasures of art to attract strangers. The energy and enterprise of its + merchants have accomplished all this, and it now stands, in importance, + among the first cities of Europe. + </p> + <p> + The bad weather obliged me to take the railroad at Halberstadt, to keep + the appointment with my friend, in this city. I left at six for Magdeburg, + and after two hours' ride over a dull, tiresome plain, rode along under + the mounds and fortifications by the side of the Elbe, and entered the old + town. It was very cold, and the streets were muddy, so I contented myself + with looking at the Broadway, (<i>der breite Weg</i>,) the Cathedral and + one or two curious old churches, and in walking along the parapet leading + to the fortress, which has a view of the winding Elbe. The Citadel was + interesting from having been the prison in which Baron Trenck was + confined, whose narrative I read years ago, when quite a child. + </p> + <p> + We were soon on the road to Leipsic. The way was over one great, + uninterrupted plain—a more monotonous country, even, than Belgium. + Two of the passengers in the car with me were much annoyed at being taken + by the railway agents for Poles. Their movements were strictly watched by + the gens d'arme at every station we passed, and they were not even allowed + to sit together! At Kothen a branch track went off to Berlin. We passed by + Halle without being able to see anything of it or its University, and + arrived here in four hours after leaving Magdeburg. + </p> + <p> + On my first walk around the city, yesterday morning, I passed the <i>Augustus + Platz</i>—a broad green lawn, on which front the University and + several other public buildings. A chain of beautiful promenades encircles + the city, on the site of its old fortifications. Following their course + through walks shaded by large trees and bordered with flowering shrubs, I + passed a small but chaste monument to Sebastian Bach, the composer, which + was erected almost entirely at the private cost of Mendelssohn, and stands + opposite the building in which Bach once directed the choirs. As I was + standing beside it, a glorious choral, swelled by a hundred voices, came + through the open windows, like a tribute to the genius of the great + master. + </p> + <p> + Having found my friend we went together to the <i>Stern Warte</i>, or + Observatory, which gives a fine view of the country around the city, and + in particular the battle field. The Castellan who is stationed there, is + well acquainted with the localities, and pointed out the position of the + hostile armies. It was one of the most bloody and hard-fought battles + which history records. The army of Napoleon stretched like a semicircle + around the southern and eastern sides of the city, and the plain beyond + was occupied by the allies, whose forces met together here. Schwarzenberg, + with his Austrians, came from Dresden; Blucher, from Halle, with the + Emperor Alexander. Their forces amounted to three hundred thousand, while + those of Napoleon ranked at one hundred and ninety-two thousand men. It + must have been a terrific scene. Four days raged the battle, and the + meeting of half a million of men in deadly conflict was accompanied by the + thunder of sixteen hundred cannon. The small rivers which flow through + Leipsic were swollen with blood, and the vast plain was strewed with more + than fifty thousand dead. It is difficult to conceive of such slaughter, + while looking at the quiet and tranquil landscape below. It seemed more + like a legend of past ages, when ignorance and passion led men to murder + and destroy, than an event which the last half century witnessed. For the + sake of humanity it is to be hoped that the world will never see such + another. + </p> + <p> + There are some lovely walks around Leipsic. We went yesterday afternoon + with a few friends to the Rosenthal, a beautiful meadow, bordered by + forests of the German oak, very few of whose Druid trunks have been left + standing. There are Swiss cottages embowered in the foliage, where every + afternoon the social citizens assemble to drink their coffee enjoy a few + hours' escape from the noisy and dusty streets, One can walk for miles + along these lovely paths by the side of the velvet meadows, or the banks + of some shaded stream. We visited the little village of Golis, a short + distance off, where, in the second story of a little white house, hangs + the sign: "Schiller's Room." Some of the Leipsic literati have built a + stone arch over the entrance, with the inscription above: "Here dwelt + Schiller in 1795, and wrote his Hymn to Joy." Every where through Germany + the remembrances of Schiller are sacred. In every city where he lived, + they show his dwelling. They know and reverence the mighty spirit who has + been among them. The little room where he conceived that sublime poem is + hallowed as if by the presence of unseen spirits. + </p> + <p> + I was anxious to see the spot where Poniatowsky fell. We returned over the + plain to the city and passed in at the gate by which the Cossacks entered, + pursuing the flying French. Crossing the lower part, we came to the little + river Elster, in whose waves the gallant prince sank. The stone bridge by + which we crossed was blown up by the French, to cut off pursuit. Napoleon + had given orders that it should not be blown up till the Poles had all + passed over, as the river, though narrow, is quite deep, and the banks are + steep. Nevertheless, his officers did not wait, and the Poles, thus + exposed to the fire of the enemy, were obliged to plunge into the stream + to join the French army, which had begun the retreat towards Frankfort. + Poniatowsky, severely wounded, made his way through a garden near and + escaped on horseback into the water. He became entangled among the + fugitives and sank. By walking a little distance along the road towards + Frankfort, we could see the spot where his body was taken out of the + river; it is now marked by a square stone, covered with the names of his + countrymen who have visited it. We returned through the narrow arched way, + by which Napoleon fled when the battle was lost. + </p> + <p> + Another interesting place in Leipsic is Auerback's Cellar, which, it is + said, contains an old manuscript history of Faust, from which Goethe + derived the first idea of his poem. He used to frequent this cellar, and + one of his scenes in "Faust" is laid in it. We looked down the arched + passage; not wishing to purchase any wine, we could find no pretence for + entering. The streets are full of book stores and one half the business of + the inhabitants appears to consist in printing, paper-making and binding. + The publishers have a handsome Exchange of their own, and during the + Fairs, the amount of business transacted is enormous. The establishment of + Brockhaus is contained in an immense building, adjoining which stands his + dwelling, in the midst of magnificent gardens. That of Tauchnitz is not + less celebrated. His edition of the classics, in particular, are the best + that have ever been made; and he has lately commenced publishing a number + of English works, in a cheap form. Otto Wigand, who has also a large + establishment, has begun to issue translations of American works. He has + already published Prescott and Bancroft, and I believe intends giving out + shortly, translations from some of our poets and novelists. I became + acquainted at the Museum, with a young German author who had been some + time in America, and was well versed in our literature. He is now engaged + in translating American works, one of which—Hoffman's "Wild Scenes + of the Forest and Prairie"—will soon appear. In no place in Germany + have I found more knowledge of our country, her men and her institutions, + than in Leipsic, and as yet I have seen few that would be preferable as a + place of residence. Its attractions lie not in its scenery, but in the + social and intellectual character of its inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 11.</i>—At last in this "Florence of the Elbe," as the Saxons + have christened it. Exclusive of its glorious galleries of art, which are + scarcely surpassed by any in Europe, Dresden charms one by the natural + beauty of its environs. It stands in a curve of the Elbe, in the midst of + green meadows, gardens and fine old woods, with the hills of Saxony + sweeping around like an amphitheatre, and the craggy peaks of the + Highlands looking at it from afar. The domes and spires at a distance give + it a rich Italian look, which is heightened by the white villas, embowered + in trees, gleaming on the hills around. In the streets there is no bustle + of business—nothing of the din and confusion of traffic which mark + most cities; it seems like a place for study and quiet enjoyment. + </p> + <p> + The railroad brought us in three hours from Leipsic, over the eighty miles + of plain that intervene. We came from the station through the <i>Neustadt</i>, + passing the Japanese Palace and the equestrian statue of Augustus the + Strong, The magnificent bridge over the Elbe was so much injured by the + late inundation as to be impassable; we worn obliged to go some distance + up the river bank and cross on a bridge of boats. Next morning my first + search was for the picture gallery. We set off at random, and after + passing the Church of Our Lady, with its lofty dome of solid stone, which + withstood the heaviest bombs during the war with Frederick the Great, came + to an open square, one side of which was occupied by an old, brown, + red-roofed building, which I at once recognized, from pictures, as the + object of our search. + </p> + <p> + I have just taken a last look at the gallery this morning, and left it + with real regret; for, during the two visits, Raphael's heavenly picture + of the Madonna and child had so grown into my love and admiration, that it + was painful to think I should never see it again. There are many more + which clung so strongly to my imagination, gratifying in the highest + degree the love for the Beautiful, that I left them with sadness, and the + thought that I would now only have the memory. I can see the inspired eye + and god-like brow of the Jesus-child, as if I were still standing before + the picture, and the sweet, holy countenance of the Madonna still looks + upon me. Yet, though this picture is a miracle of art, the first glance + filled me with disappointment. It has somewhat faded, during the three + hundred years that have rolled away since the hand of Raphael worked on + the canvass, and the glass with which it is covered for better + preservation, injures the effect. After I had gazed on it awhile, every + thought of this vanished. The figure of the virgin seemed to soar in the + air, and it was difficult to think the clouds were not in motion. An + aerial lightness clothes her form, and it is perfectly natural for such a + figure to stand among the clouds. Two divine cherubs look up from below, + and in her arms sits the sacred child. Those two faces beam from the + picture like those of angels. The wild, prophetic eye and lofty brow of + the young Jesus chains one like a spell. There is something more than + mortal in its expression—something in the infant face which + indicates a power mightier than the proudest manhood. There is no glory + around the head; but the spirit which shines from those features, marks + his divinity. In the sweet face of the mother there speaks a sorrowful + foreboding mixed with its tenderness, as if she knew the world into which + the Saviour was born, and foresaw the path in which he was to tread. It is + a picture which one can scarce look upon without tears. + </p> + <p> + There are in the same room six pictures by Correggio, which are said to be + among his best works; one of them his celebrated Magdalen. There is also + Correggio's "Holy Night," or the virgin with the shepherds in the manger, + in which all the light comes from the body of the child. The surprise of + the shepherds is most beautifully expressed. In one of the halls there is + a picture by Van der Werff, in which the touching story of Hagar is told + more feelingly than words could do it. The young Ishmael is represented + full of grief at parting with Isaac, who, in childish unconsciousness of + what has taken place, draws in sport the corner of his mother's mantle + around him, and smiles at the tears of his lost playmate. Nothing can come + nearer real flesh and blood than the two portraits of Raphael Mengs, + painted by himself when quite young. You almost think the artist has in + sport crept behind the frame, and wishes to make you believe he is a + picture. It would be impossible to speak of half the gems of art contained + in this unrivalled collection. There are twelve large halls, containing in + all nearly two thousand pictures. + </p> + <p> + The plain, south of Dresden, was the scene of the hard-fought battle + between Napoleon and the allied armies, in 1813. On the heights above the + little village of Räcknitz, Moreau was shot on the second day of the + battle. We took a foot-path through the meadows, shaded by cherry trees in + bloom, and reached the spot after an hour's walk. The monument is simple—a + square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet and sword, with the + inscription: "<i>The hero Moreau fell here by the side of Alexander, + August 17th, 1813</i>." I gathered, as a memorial, a few leaves of the oak + which shades it. + </p> + <p> + By applying an hour before the appointed time, we obtained admission to + the Royal Library. It contains three hundred thousand volumes—among + them the most complete collection of historical works in existence. Each + hall is devoted to a history of a separate country, and one large room is + filled with that of Saxony alone. There is a large number of rare and + curious manuscripts, among which are old Greek works of the seventh and + eighth centuries; a Koran which once belonged to the Sultan Bajazet; the + handwriting of Luther and Melancthon; a manuscript volume with pen and ink + sketches, by Albert Durer, and the earliest works after the invention of + printing. Among these latter was a book published by Faust and Schaeffer, + at Mayence, in 1457. There were also Mexican manuscripts, written on the + Aloe leaf, and many illuminated monkish volumes of the middle ages. + </p> + <p> + We were fortunate in seeing the <i>Grüne Gewölbe</i>, or Green Gallery, a + collection of jewels and costly articles, unsurpassed in Europe. The + entrance is only granted to six persons at a time, who pay a fee of two + thalers. The customary way is to employ a <i>Lohnbedienter</i>, who goes + around from one hotel to another, till he has collected the number, when + he brings them together and conducts them to the person in the palace, who + has charge of the treasures. As our visit happened to be during the + Pentecost holidays, when every body in Dresden goes to the mountains, + there was some difficulty in effecting this, but after two mornings spent + in hunting up curious travelers, the servant finally conducted us in + triumph to the palace. The first hall into which we were ushered, + contained works in bronze. They were all small, and chosen with regard to + their artistical value. Some by John of Bologna were exceedingly fine, as + was also a group in iron, <i>cut</i> out of a single block; perhaps the + only successful attempt in this branch. The next room contained statues, + and vases covered with reliefs, in ivory. The most remarkable work was the + fall of Lucifer and his angels, containing ninety-two figures in all, + carved out of a single piece of ivory sixteen inches high! It was the work + of an Italian monk, and cost him many years of hard labor. There were two + tables of mosaic-work, that would not be out of place in the fabled halls + of the eastern genii, so much did they exceed my former ideas of human + skill. The tops were of jasper, and each had a border of fruit and + flowers, in which every color was represented by some precious stone, all + with the utmost delicacy and truth to nature! It is impossible to conceive + the splendid effect it produced. Besides some fine pictures on gold by + Raphael Mengs, there was a Madonna, the largest specimen of enamel + painting in existence. + </p> + <p> + However costly the contents of these halls, they were only an introduction + to those which followed. Each one exceeded the other in splendor and + costliness. The walls were covered to the ceiling with rows of goblets, + vases, &c., of polished jasper, agate and lapiz lazuli. Splendid + mosaic tables stood around, with caskets of the most exquisite silver and + gold work upon them, and vessels of solid silver, some of them weighing + six hundred pounds were placed at the foot of the columns. We were shown + two goblets, each prized at six thousand thalers, made of gold and + precious stones; also the great pearl called the Spanish Dwarf, nearly as + large as a pullet's egg; globes and vases cut entirely out of the mountain + crystal; magnificent Nuremberg watches and clocks, and a great number of + figures, made ingeniously of rough pearls and diamonds. The officer showed + us a hen's egg of silver. There was apparently nothing remarkable about + it, but by unscrewing, it came apart, and disclosed the yelk of gold. This + again opened and a golden chicken was seen; by touching a spring, a little + diamond crown came from the inside, and the crown being again taken apart, + out dropped a valuable diamond ring! The seventh hall contains the + coronation robes of Augustus II., of Poland, and many costly specimens of + carving in wood, A cherry stone is shown in a glass case, which has one + hundred and twenty-five faces, all perfectly finished, carved upon it! The + next room we entered sent back a glare of splendor that perfectly dazzled + us. It was all gold, diamond, ruby and sapphire! Every case sent out such + a glow and glitter that it seemed like a cage of imprisoned lightnings. + Wherever the eye turned it was met by a blaze of broken rainbows. They + were there by hundreds, and every gem was a fortune. Whole cases of + swords, with hilts and scabbards of solid gold, studded with gems; the + great two-handed coronation sword of the German emperors; daggers covered + with brilliants and rubies; diamond buttons, chains and orders, necklaces + and bracelets of pearl and emerald, and the order of the Golden Fleece + made in gems of every kind. We were also shown the largest known onyx, + nearly seven inches long and four inches broad! One of the most remarkable + works is the throne and court of Aurungzebe, the Indian king, by + Dinglinger, a celebrated goldsmith of the last century. It contains one + hundred and thirty-two figures, all of enamelled gold, and each one most + perfectly and elaborately finished. It was purchased by Prince Augustus + for fifty-eight thousand thalers,[**] which was not a high sum, + considering that the making of it occupied Dinglinger and thirteen workmen + for seven years! + </p> + <p> + It is almost impossible to estimate the value of the treasures these halls + contain. That of the gold and jewels alone must bo many millions of + dollars, and the amount of labor expended on these toys of royalty is + incredible. As monuments of patient and untiring toil, they are + interesting: but it is sad to think how much labor and skill and energy + have been wasted, in producing things which are useless to the world, and + only of secondary importance as works of art. Perhaps, however, if men + could be diverted by such play-things from more dangerous games, it would + be all the better. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + + </p> + ** [ A Prussian or Saxon + thaler is about 70 cts.] + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. — RAMBLES IN THE SAXON SWITZERLAND. + </h2> + <p> + After four days' sojourn in Dresden we shouldered our knapsacks, not to be + laid down again till we reached Prague. We were elated with the prospect + of getting among the hills again, and we heeded not the frequent showers + which had dampened the enjoyment of the Pentecost holidays, to the good + citizens of Dresden, and might spoil our own. So we trudged gaily along + the road to Pillnitz and waved an adieu to the domes behind us as the + forest shut them out from view. After two hours' walk the road led down to + the Elbe, where we crossed in a ferry-boat to Pillnitz, the seat of a + handsome palace and gardens, belonging to the King of Saxony. He happened + to be there at the time, on an afternoon excursion from Dresden; as we had + seen him before, in the latter place, we passed directly on, only pausing + to admire the flower-beds in the palace court. The King is a tall, + benevolent looking man, and is apparently much liked by his people. As far + as I have yet seen, Saxony is a prosperous and happy country. The people + are noted all over Germany for their honest, social character, which is + written on their cheerful, open countenances. On our entrance into the + Saxon Switzerland, at Pillnitz, we were delighted with the neatness and + home-like appearance of every thing. Every body greeted us; if we asked + for information, they gave it cheerfully. The villages were all pleasant + and clean and the meadows fresh and blooming. I felt half tempted to say, + in the words of an old ballad, which I believe Longfellow has translated: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The fairest kingdom on this earth, + It is the Saxon land!" +</pre> + <p> + Going along the left bank of the Elbe, we passed over meadows purple with + the tri-colored violet, which we have at home in gardens, and every little + bank was bright with cowslips. At length the path led down into a cleft or + ravine filled with trees, whose tops were on a level with the country + around. This is a peculiar feature of Saxon scenery. The country contains + many of these clefts, some of which are several hundred feet deep, having + walls of perpendicular rock, in whose crevices the mountain pine roots + itself and grows to a tolerable height without any apparent soil to keep + it alive. We descended by a foot-path into this ravine, called the + Liebethaler Grund. It is wider than many of the others, having room enough + for a considerable stream and several mills. The sides are of sandstone + rock, quite perpendicular. As we proceeded, it grew narrower and deeper, + while the trees covering its sides and edges nearly shut out the sky. An + hour's walk brought us to the end, where we ascended gradually to the + upper level again. + </p> + <p> + After passing the night at the little village of Uttewalde, a short + distance further, we set out early in the morning for the Bastei, a lofty + precipice on the Elbe. The way led us directly through the Uttewalder + Grund, the most remarkable of all these chasms. We went down by steps into + its depths, which in the early morning were very cold. Water dripped from + the rocks, which but a few feet apart, rose far above us, and a little + rill made its way along the bottom, into which the sun has never shone. + Heavy masses of rock, which had tumbled down from the sides lay in the + way, and tall pine trees sprung from every cleft. In one place the defile + is only four feet wide, and a large mass of rock, fallen from above, has + lodged near the bottom, making an arch across, under which the traveller + has to creep. After going under two or three arches of this kind, the + defile widened and an arrow cut upon a rock directed us to a side path, + which branched off from this into a mountain. Here the stone masses + immediately assumed another form. They projected out like shelves + sometimes as much as twenty feet from the straight side, and hung over the + way, looking as if they might break off every moment. I felt glad when we + had passed under them. Then as we ascended higher, we saw pillars of rock + separated entirely from the side and rising a hundred feet in height, with + trees growing on their summits. They stood there gray and limeworn, like + the ruins of a Titan temple. + </p> + <p> + The path finally led us out into the forest and through the clustering + pine trees, to the summit of the Bastei. An inn has been erected in the + woods and an iron balustrade placed around the rock. Protected by this, we + advanced to the end of the precipice and looked down to the swift Elbe, + more than seven hundred feet below! Opposite through the blue mists of + morning, rose Königstein, crowned with an impregnable fortress, and the + crags of Lilienstein, with a fine forest around their base, frowned from + the left bank. On both sides were horrible precipices of gray rock, with + rugged trees hanging from the crevices. A hill rising up from one side of + the Bastei, terminates suddenly a short distance from it, in on abrupt + precipice. In the intervening space stand three or four of those + rock-columns, several hundred feet high, with their tops nearly on a level + with the Bastei. A wooden bridge has been made across from one to the + other, over which the traveller passes, looking on the trees and rocks far + below him, to the mountain, where a steep zigzag path takes him to the + Elbe below. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the Elbe for the fourth time at the foot of the Bastei, and + walked along its right bank towards Königstein. The injury caused by the + inundation was everywhere apparent. The receding flood had left a deposit + of sand, in many places several feet deep on the rich meadows, so that the + labor of years will be requisite to remove it and restore the land to an + arable condition. Even the farm-houses on the hillside, some distance from + the river, had been reached, and the long grass hung in the highest + branches of the fruit trees. The people wore at work trying to repair + their injuries, but it will fall heavily upon the poorer classes. + </p> + <p> + The mountain of Königstein is twelve hundred feet high. A precipice, + varying from one to three hundred feet in height, runs entirely around the + summit, which is flat, and a mile and a half in circumference. This has + been turned into a fortress, whose natural advantages make it entirely + impregnable. During the Thirty Years' War and the late war with Napoleon, + it was the only place in Saxony unoccupied by the enemy. Hence is it used + as a depository for the archives and royal treasures, in times of danger. + By giving up our passports at the door, we received permission to enter; + the officer called a guide to take us around the battlements. There is + quite a little village on the summit, with gardens, fields, and a wood of + considerable size. The only entrance is by a road cut through the rock, + which is strongly guarded. A well seven hundred feet deep supplies the + fortress with water, and there are storehouses sufficient to hold supplies + for many years. The view from the ramparts is glorious—it takes in + the whole of the Saxon Highlands, as far as the lofty Schneeberg in + Bohemia. On the other side the eye follows the windings of the Elbe, as + far as the spires of Dresden. Lilienstein, a mountain of exactly similar + formation, but somewhat higher, stands directly opposite. On walking + around, the guide pointed out a little square tower standing on the brink + of a precipice, with a ledge, about two feet wide, running around it, just + below the windows. He said during the reign of Augustus the Strong, a + baron attached to his court, rose in his sleep after a night of revelry, + and stepping out the window, stretched himself at full length along the + ledge. A guard fortunately observed his situation and informed Augustus of + it, who had him bound and secured with cords, and then awakened by music. + It was a good lesson, and one which no doubt sobered him for the future. + </p> + <p> + Passing through the little city of Königstein, we walked on to Schandau, + the capital of the Saxon Switzerland, situated on the left bank. It had + sustained great damage from the flood, the whole place having been + literally under water. Here we turned up a narrow valley which led to the + Kuhstall, some eight miles distant. The sides, as usual, were of steep + gray rock, but wide enough apart to give room to some lovely meadows, with + here and there a rustic cottage. The mountain maidens, in their bright red + dresses, with a fanciful scarf bound around the head, made a romantic + addition to the scene. There were some quiet secluded nooks, where the + light of day stole in dimly through the thick foliage above and the wild + stream rushed less boisterously over the rocks. We sat down to rest in one + of these cool retreats, and made the glen ring with a cheer for America. + The echoes repeated the name as if they had heard it for the first time, + and I gave them a strict injunction to give it back to the next countryman + who should pass by. + </p> + <p> + As we advanced further into the hills the way became darker and wilder. We + heard the sound of falling water in a little dell on one side, and going + nearer, saw a picturesque fall of about fifteen feet. Great masses of + black rock were piled together, over which the mountain-stream fell in a + snowy sheet. The pines above and around grew so thick and close, that not + a sunbeam could enter, and a kind of mysterious twilight pervaded the + spot. In Greece it would have been chosen for an oracle. I have seen, + somewhere, a picture of the Spirit of Poetry, sitting beside just such a + cataract, and truly the nymph could choose no more appropriate dwelling. + But alas for sentiment! while we were admiring its picturesque beauty, we + did not notice a man who came from a hut near by and went up behind the + rocks. All at once there was a roar of water, and a real torrent came + pouring down. I looked up, and lo! there he stood, with a gate in his hand + which had held the water imprisoned, looking down at us to observe the + effect, I motioned him to shut it up again, and he ran down to us, lest he + should lose his fee for the "sight!" + </p> + <p> + Our road now left the valley and ascended through a forest to the + Kuhstall, which we came upon at once. It is a remarkable natural arch, + through a rocky wall or rampart, one hundred and fifty feet thick. Going + through, we came at the other end to the edge of a very deep precipice, + while the rock towered precipitously far above. Below lay a deep circular + valley, two miles in diameter, and surrounded on every side by ranges of + crags, such as we saw on the Bastei. It was entirely covered with a pine + forest, and there only appeared to be two or three narrow defiles which + gave it a communication with the world. The top of the Kuhstall can be + reached by a path which runs up through a split in the rock, directly to + the summit. It is just wide enough for one person to squeeze himself + through; pieces of wood have been fastened in as steps, and the rocks in + many places close completely above. The place derives its name from having + been used by the mountaineers as a hiding-place for their cattle in time + of war. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we descended by another crevice in the rock to the lonely + valley, which we crossed, and climbed the Little Winterberg on the + opposite side. There is a wide and rugged view from a little tower on a + precipitous rock near the summit, erected to commemorate the escape of + Prince Augustus of Saxony, who, being pursued by a mad stag, rescued + himself on the very brink, by a lucky blow. Among the many wild valleys + that lay between the hills, we saw scarcely one without the peculiar rocky + formation which gives to Saxon scenery its most interesting character. + They resemble the remains of some mighty work of art, rather than one of + the thousand varied forms in which Nature delights to clothe herself. + </p> + <p> + The Great Winterberg, which is reached by another hour's walk along an + elevated ridge, is the highest of the mountains, celebrated for the grand + view from its summit. We found the handsome Swiss hotel recently built + there, full of tourists who had come to enjoy the scone, but the morning + clouds hid every thing. We ascended the tower, and looking between them as + they rolled by, caught glimpses of the broad landscape below. The Giant's + Mountains in Silesia were hidden by the mist, but sometimes when the wind + freshened, we could see beyond the Elbe into Bohemian Switzerland, where + the long Schneeberg rose conspicuous above the smaller mountains. Leaving + the other travellers to wait at their leisure for clearer weather, we set + off for the Prebisehthor, in company with two or three students from the + Polytechnic School in Dresden. An hour's walk over high hills, whose + forest clothing had been swept off by fire a few years before, brought us + to it. + </p> + <p> + The Prebisehthor is a natural arch, ninety feet high, in a wall of rock + which projects at right angles from the precipitous side of the mountain. + A narrow path leads over the top of the arch to the end of the rock, + where, protected by a railing, the traveller seems to hang in the air. The + valley is far below him—mountains rise up on either side—and + only the narrow bridge connects him with the earth. We descended by a + wooden staircase to the bottom of the arch, near which a rustic inn is + built against the rock, and thence into the valley below, which we + followed through rude lonely scenery, to Hirnischkretschen (!) on the + Elbe. + </p> + <p> + Crossing the river again for the sixth and last time, we followed the + right bank to Neidergrund, the first Austrian village. Here our passports + were visèd for Prague, and we were allowed to proceed without any + examination of baggage. I noticed a manifest change in our fellow + travelers the moment we crossed the border. They appeared anxious and + careful; if we happened to speak of the state of the country, they always + looked around to see if anybody was near, and if we even passed a workman + on the road, quickly changed to some other subject. They spoke much of the + jealous strictness of the government, and from what I heard from Austrians + themselves, there may have been ground for their cautiousness. + </p> + <p> + We walked seven or eight miles along the bank of the Elbe, to Tetschen, + there left our companions and took the road to Teplitz. The scenery was + very picturesque; it must be delightful to float down the swift current in + a boat, as we saw several merry companies do. The river is just small + enough and the banks near enough together, to render such a mode of + travelling delightful, and the strength of the current would carry one to + Dresden in a day. + </p> + <p> + I was pleasantly disappointed on entering Bohemia. Instead of a dull, + uninteresting country, as I expected, it is a land full of the most lovely + scenery. There is every thing which can gratify the eye—high blue + mountains, valleys of the sweetest pastoral look and romantic old ruins. + The very name of Bohemia is associated with wild and wonderful legends, of + the rude barbaric ages. Even the chivalric tales of the feudal times of + Germany grow tame beside these earlier and darker histories. The fallen + fortresses of the Rhine, or the robber-castles of the Odenwald had not for + me so exciting an interest as the shapeless ruins cumbering these lonely + mountains. The civilized Saxon race was left behind; I saw around me the + features and heard the language of one of those rude Sclavonic tribes, + whose original home was on the vast steppes of Central Asia. I have rarely + enjoyed traveling more than our first two days' journey towards Prague. + The range of the Erzgebirge ran along on our right; the snow still lay in + patches upon it, but the valleys between, with their little clusters of + white cottages, were green and beautiful. About six miles before reaching + Teplitz, we passed Kulm, the great battle-field, which in a measure + decided the fate of Napoleon. He sent Vandamme with 40,000 men to attack + the allies before they could unite their forces, and thus effect their + complete destruction. Only the almost despairing bravery of the Russian + guards under Ostermann, who held him in check till the allied troops + united, prevented Napoleon's design. At the junction of the roads, where + the fighting was hottest, the Austrians have erected a monument to one of + their generals. Not far from it is that of Prussia, simple and tasteful. A + woody hill near, with the little village of Kulm at its foot, was the + station occupied by Vandamme at the commencement of the battle. There is + now a beautiful chapel on its summit, which can be seen far and wide. A + little distance further, the Emperor of Russia has erected a third + monument to the memory of the Russians who fell. Four lions rest on the + base of the pedestal, and on the top of the shaft, forty-five feet high, + Victory is represented as engraving the date, "Aug. 30, 1813," on a + shield. The dark, pine-covered mountains on the right, overlook the whole + field and the valley of Teplitz; Napoleon rode along their crests several + days after the battle, to witness the scene of his defeat. + </p> + <p> + Teplitz lies in a lovely valley, several miles wide, bounded by the + Bohemian mountains on one side, and the Erzgebirge on the other. One + straggling peak near is crowned with a picturesque ruin, at whose foot the + spacious bath-buildings lie half hidden in foliage. As we went down the + principal street, I noticed nearly every house was a hotel; we learned + afterwards that in summer the usual average of visitors is five thousand. + The waters resemble those of the celebrated Carlsbad; they are warm and + particularly efficacious in rheumatism and diseases of like character. + After leaving Teplitz, the road turned to the east, towards a lofty + mountain, which we had seen the morning before. The peasants as they + passed by, saluted us with "Christ greet you!" + </p> + <p> + We stopped for the night at the foot of the peak called the Milleschauer, + and must have ascended nearly 2,000 feet, for we had a wide view the next + morning, although the mists and clouds hid the half of it. The weather + being so unfavorable, we concluded not to ascend, and taking leave of the + Jena student who came there for that purpose, descended through green + fields and orchards snowy with blossoms, to Lobositz, on the Elbe. Here we + reached the plains again, where every thing wore the luxuriance of summer; + it was a pleasant change from the dark and rough scenery we left. The road + passed through Theresienstadt, the fortress of Northern Bohemia. The + little city is surrounded by a double wall and moat, which can be filled + with water, rendering it almost impossible to be taken. In the morning we + were ferried over the Moldau, and after journeying nearly all day across + barren, elevated plains, saw late in the afternoon the sixty-seven spires + of Prague below us! The dark clouds which hung over the hills, gave us + little time to look upon the singular scene; and we were soon comfortably + settled in the half-barbaric, half-Asiatic city, with a pleasant prospect + of seeing its wonders on the morrow. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. — SCENES IN PRAGUE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Prague.</i>—I feel as if out of the world, in this strange, + fantastic, yet beautiful old city. We have been rambling all morning + through its winding streets, stopping sometimes at a church to see the + dusty tombs and shrines, or to hear the fine music which accompanies the + morning mass. I have seen no city yet that so forcibly reminds one of the + past, and makes him forget everything but the associations connected with + the scenes around him. The language adds to the illusion. Three-fourths of + the people in the streets speak Bohemian and many of the signs are written + in the same tongue, which is not at all like German. The palace of the + Bohemian kings still looks down on the city from the western heights, and + their tombs stand in the Cathedral of the holy Johannes. When one has + climbed up the stone steps lending to the fortress, there is a glorious + prospect before him. Prague, with its spires and towers, lies in the + valley below, through which curves the Moldau with its green islands, + disappearing among the hills which enclose the city on every side. The + fantastic Byzantine architecture of many of the churches and towers, gives + the city a peculiar oriental appearance; it seems to have been transported + from the hills of Syria. Its streets are full of palaces, fallen and dwelt + in now by the poorer classes. Its famous University, which once boasted + forty thousand students, has long since ceased to exist. In a word, it is, + like Venice, a fallen city; though as in Venice, the improving spirit of + the age is beginning to give it a little life, and to send a quicker + stream through its narrow and winding arteries. The railroad, which, + joining that to Brünn, shall bring it in connection with Vienna, will be + finished this year; in anticipation of the increased business which will + arise from this, speculators are building enormous hotels in the suburbs + and tearing down the old buildings to give place to more splendid + edifices. These operations, and the chain bridge which spans the Moldau + towards the southern end of the city, are the only things which look + modern—every thing else is old, strange and solemn. + </p> + <p> + Having found out first a few of the locations, we hunted our way with + difficulty through its labyrinths, seeking out every place of note or + interest. Reaching the bridge at last, we concluded to cross over and + ascend to the Hradschin—the palace of the Bohemian kings. The bridge + was commenced in 1357, and was one hundred and fifty years in building. + That was the way the old Germans did their work, and they made a structure + which will last a thousand years longer. Every pier is surmounted with + groups of saints and martyrs, all so worn and time-beaten, that there is + little left of their beauty, if they ever had any. The most important of + them, at least to Bohemians, is that of the holy "Johannes of Nepomuck," + now considered as the patron-saint of the land. He was a priest many + centuries ago, whom one of the kings threw from the bridge into the + Moldau, because he refused to reveal to him what the queen confessed. The + legend says the body swam for some time on the river, with five stars + around its head. The 16th of May, the day before we arrived, was that set + apart for his particular honor; the statue on the bridge was covered with + an arch of green boughs and flowers, and the shrine lighted with burning + tapers. A railing was erected around it, near which numbers of the + believers were kneeling, and a priest stood in the inside. The bridge was + covered with passers-by, who all took their hats off till they had passed. + Had it been a place of public worship, the act would have been natural and + appropriate, but to uncover before a statue seemed to us too much like + idolatry, and we ventured over without doing it. A few years ago it might + have been dangerous, but now we only met with scowling looks. There are + many such shrines and statues through the city, and I noticed that the + people always took off their hats and crossed themselves in passing. On + the hill above the western end of the city, stands a chapel on the spot + where the Bavarians put an end to Protestantism in Bohemia <i>by the sword</i>, + and the deluded peasantry of the land make pilgrimages to this spot, as if + it were rendered holy by an act over which Religion weeps! + </p> + <p> + Ascending the broad flight of steps to the Hradschin, I paused a moment to + look at the scene below. A slight blue haze hung over the clustering + towers, and the city looked dim through it, like a city seen in a dream. + It was well that it should so appear, for not less dim and misty are the + memories that haunt its walls. There was no need of a magician's wand to + bid that light cloud shadow forth the forms of other times. They came + uncalled for, even by fancy. Far, far back in the past, I saw the + warrior-princess who founded the kingly city—the renowned Libussa, + whose prowess and talent inspired the women of Bohemia to rise at her + death and storm the land that their sex might rule where it obeyed before. + On the mountain opposite once stood the palace of the bloody Wlaska, who + reigned with her Amazon band for seven years over half Bohemia. Those + streets below had echoed with the fiery words of Huss, and the castle of + his follower—the blind Ziska, who met and defeated the armies of the + German Empire—moulders on the mountain above. Many a year of war and + tempest has passed over the scene. The hills around have borne the armies + of Wallenstein and Frederic the Great; the war-cry of Bavaria, Sweden and + Poland has echoed in the valley, and the red glare of the midnight cannon + or the flames of burning palaces have often gleamed along the "blood-dyed + waters" of the Moldau! + </p> + <p> + But this was a day-dream. The throng of people coming up the steps waked + me out of it. We turned and followed them through several spacious courts, + till we arrived at the Cathedral, which is magnificent in the extreme. The + dark Gothic pillars, whose arches unite high above, are surrounded with + gilded monuments and shrines, and the side chapels are rich in elaborate + decorations. A priest was speaking from a pulpit in the centre, in the + Bohemian language, which not being the most intelligible, I went to the + other end to see the shrine of the holy Johannes of Nepomuck. It stands at + the end of one of the side aisles and is composed of a mass of gorgeous + silver ornaments. At a little distance, on each side, hang four massive + lamps of silver, constantly burning. The pyramid of statues, of the same + precious metal, has at each corner a richly carved urn, three feet high, + with a crimson lamp burning at the top. Above, four silver angels, the + size of life, are suspended in the air, holding up the corners of a + splendid drapery of crimson and gold. If these figures were melted down + and distributed among the poor and miserable people who inhabit Bohemia, + they would then be angels indeed, bringing happiness and blessing to many + a ruined home- altar. In the same chapel is the splendid burial-place of + the Bohemian kings, of gilded marble and alabaster. Numberless tombs, + covered with elaborate ornamental work, fill the edifice. It gives one a + singular feeling to stand at one end and look down the lofty hall, dim + with incense smoke and dark with the weight of many centuries. + </p> + <p> + On the way down again, we stepped into the St. Nicholas Church, which was + built by the Jesuits. The interior has a rich effect, being all of brown + and gold. The massive pillars are made to resemble reddish-brown marble, + with gilded capitals, and the statues at the base are profusely ornamented + in the same style. The music chained me there a long time. There was a + grand organ, assisted by a full orchestra and large choir of singers. It + was placed above, and at every sound of the priest's bell, the flourish of + trumpets and deep roll of the drums filled the dome with a burst of + quivering sound, while the giant pipes of the organ breathed out their + full harmony and the very air shook under the peal. It was like a + triumphal strain; the soul became filled with thoughts of power and glory—every + sense was changed into one dim, indistinct emotion of rapture, which held + the spirit as if spell-bound. I could almost forgive the Jesuits the + superstition and bigotry they have planted in the minds of men, for the + indescribable enjoyment that music gave. When it ceased, we went out to + the world again, and the recollection of it seems now like a dream—but + a dream whose influence will last longer than many a more palpable + reality. + </p> + <p> + Not far from this place is the palace of Wallenstein, in the same + condition as when he inhabited it, and still in the possession of his + descendants. It is a plain, large building, having beautiful gardens + attached to it, which are open to the public. We went through the + courtyard, threaded a passage with a roof of rough stalactitic rock, and + entered the garden where a revolving fountain was casting up its + glittering arches. Among the flowers at the other end of the garden there + is a remarkable fountain. It is but a single jet of water which rises from + the middle of a broad basin of woven wire, but by some means it sustains a + hollow gilded ball, sometimes for many minutes at a time. When the ball + drops, the sloping sides of the basin convey it directly to the fountain + again, and it is carried up to dance a while longer on the top of the jet. + I watched it once, thus supported on the water, for full fifteen minutes. + </p> + <p> + There is another part of Prague which is not less interesting, though much + less poetical—the Jews' City. In our rambles we got into it before + we were aware, but hurried immediately out of it again, perfectly + satisfied with one visit. We came first into a dark, narrow street, whose + sides were lined with booths of old clothes and second-hand articles. A + sharp featured old woman thrust a coat before my face, exclaiming, "Herr, + buy a fine coat!" Instantly a man assailed me on the other side, "Here are + vests! pantaloons! shirts!" I broke loose from them and ran on, but it + only became worse. One seized me by the arm, crying, "<i>Lieber</i> Herr, + buy some stockings!" and another grasped my coat: "Hats, Herr! hats! <i>buy + something, or sell me something!</i>" I rushed desperately on, shouting + "no! no!" with all my might, and finally got safe through. My friend + having escaped their clutches also, we hunted the way to the old Jewish + cemetery. This stands in the middle of the city, and has not been used for + a hundred years. We could find no entrance, but by climbing upon the ruins + of an old house near, I could look over the wall. A cold shudder crept + over me, to think that warm, joyous Life, as I then felt it, should grow + chill and pass back to clay in such a foul charnel-house. Large mounds of + earth, covered with black, decaying grave-stones, which were almost hidden + under the weeds and rank grass, filled the inclosure. A few dark, crooked + alder-trees grew among the crumbling tombs, and gave the scene an air of + gloom and desolation, almost fearful. The dust of many a generation lies + under these mouldering stones; they now scarcely occupy a thought in the + minds of the living; and yet the present race toils and seeks for wealth + alone, that it may pass away and leave nothing behind—not even a + memory for that which will follow it! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. — JOURNEY THROUGH EASTERN BOHEMIA AND MORAVIA TO THE + DANUBE. + </h2> + <p> + Our road the first two days after leaving Prague led across broad, + elevated plains, across which a cold wind came direct from the summits of + the Riesengebirge, far to our left. Were it not for the pleasant view we + had of the rich valley of the Upper Elbe, which afforded a delightful + relief to the monotony of the hills around us, the journey would have been + exceedingly tiresome. The snow still glistened on the distant mountains; + but when the sun shone out, the broad valley below, clad in the luxuriance + of summer, and extending for at least fifty miles with its woods, meadows + and white villages, looked like a real Paradise. The long ridges over + which we travelled extend for nearly a hundred and fifty miles—from + the Elbe almost to the Danube. The soil is not fertile, the inhabitants + are exceedingly poor, and from our own experience, the climate must be + unhealthy. In winter the country is exposed to the full sweep of the + northern winds, and in summer the sun shines down on it with unbroken + force. There are few streams running through it, and the highest part, + which divides the waters of the Baltic from those of the Black Sea is + filled for a long distance with marshes and standing pools, whose + exhalations must inevitably subject the inhabitants to disease. This was + perceptible in their sallow, sickly countenances; many of the women are + afflicted with the <i>goitre</i>, or swelling of the throat; I noticed + that towards evening they always carefully muffled up their faces. + According to their own statements, the people suffer much from the cold in + winter, as the few forests the country affords are in possession of the + noblemen to whom the land belongs, and they are not willing to let them be + cut down. The dominions of these petty despots are marked along the road + with as much precision as the boundaries of an empire; we saw sometimes + their stalely castles at a distance, forming quite a contrast to the poor + scattering villages of the peasants. + </p> + <p> + At Kollin, the road, which had been running eastward in the direction of + Olmutz, turned to the south, and we took leave of the Elbe, after tracing + back his course from Magdeburg nearly to his home in the mountains of + Silesia. The country was barren and monotonous, but a bright sunshine made + it look somewhat cheerful. We passed, every few paces, some shrine or + statue by the roadside. This had struck me, immediately on crossing the + border, in the Saxon Switzerland—it seemed as if the boundary of + Saxony was that of Protestantism. But here in the heart of Bohemia, the + extent to which this image worship is carried, exceeds anything I had + imagined. There is something pleasing as well as poetical in the idea of a + shrine by the wayside, where the weary traveller can rest, and raise his + heart in thankfulness to the Power that protects him; it was no doubt a + pious spirit that placed them there; but the people appear to pay the + reverence to the picture which they should give to its spiritual image, + and the pictures themselves are so shocking and ghastly, they seem better + calculated to excite horror than reverence. It was really repulsive to + look on images of the Saviour covered with blood, and generally with + swords sticking in different parts of the body. The Almighty is + represented as an old man, wearing a Bishop's mitre, and the image of the + Virgin is always drest in a gay silk robe, with beads and other ornaments. + From the miserable painting, the faces often had an expression that would + have been exceedingly ludicrous, if the shock given to our feelings of + reverence were not predominant. The poor, degraded peasants always + uncovered or crossed themselves when passing by these shrines, but it + appeared to be rather the effect of habit than any good impulse, for the + Bohemians are noted all over Germany for their dishonesty; we learned by + experience they deserve it. It is not to be wondered at either; for a + people so poor and miserable and oppressed will soon learn to take + advantage of all who appear better off than themselves. They had one + custom which was touching and beautiful. At the sound of the church bell, + as it rung the morning, noon and evening chimes, every one uncovered, and + repeated to himself a prayer. Often, as we rested at noon on a bank by the + roadside, that voice spoke out from the house of worship and every one + heeded its tone. Would that to this innate spirit of reverence were added + the light of Knowledge, which a tyrannical government denies them! + </p> + <p> + The third night of our journey we stopped at the little village of + Stecken, and the next morning, after three hours' walk over the ridgy + heights, reached the old Moravian city of Iglau, built on a hill. It + happened to be <i>Corpus Christi</i> day, and the peasants of the + neighborhood were hastening there in their gayest dresses. The young women + wore a crimson scarf around the head, with long fringed and embroidered + ends hanging over the shoulders, or falling in one smooth fold from the + back of the head. They were attired in black velvet vests, with full white + sleeves and skirts of some gay color, which were short enough to show to + advantage their red stockings and polished shoe-buckles. Many of them were + not deficient in personal beauty—there was a gipsy-like wildness in + their eyes, that combined with their rich hair and graceful costume, + reminded me of the Italian maidens. The towns too, with their open squares + and arched passages, have quite a southern look; but the damp, gloomy + weather was enough to dispel any illusion of this kind. + </p> + <p> + In the neighborhood of Iglau, and, in fact, through the whole of Bohemia, + we saw some of the strangest teams that could well be imagined. I thought + the Frankfort milkwomen with their donkeys and hearse-like carts, were + comical objects enough, but they bear no comparison with these Bohemian + turn-outs. Dogs—for economy's sake, perhaps—generally supply + the place of oxen or horses, and it is no uncommon thing to see three + large mastiffs abreast, harnessed to a country-cart. A donkey and a cow + together, are sometimes met with, and one man, going to the festival at + Iglau, had his wife and children in a little wagon, drawn by a dog and a + donkey. These two, however, did not work well together; the dog would bite + his lazy companion, and the man's time was constantly employed in whipping + him off the donkey, and in whipping the donkey away from the side of the + road. Once I saw a wagon drawn by a dog, with a woman pushing behind, + while a man, doubtless her lord and master, sat comfortably within, + smoking his pipe with the greatest complacency! The very climax of all was + a woman and a dog harnessed <i>together</i>, taking a load of country + produce to market! I hope, for the honor of the country, it was not + emblematic of woman's condition there. But as we saw hundreds of them + breaking stone along the road, and occupied at other laborious and not + less menial labor, there is too much reason to fear that it is so. + </p> + <p> + As we approached Iglau, we heard cannon firing; the crowd increased, and + following the road, we came to an open square, where a large number were + already assembled; shrines were erected around it, hung with pictures and + pine boughs, and a long procession of children was passing down the side + as we entered. We went towards the middle, where Neptune and his Tritons + poured the water from their urns into two fountains, and stopped to + observe the scene. The procession came on, headed by a large body of + priests, in white robes, with banners and crosses. They stopped before the + principal shrine, in front of the Rathhaus, and began a solemn religious + ceremony. The whole crowd of not less than ten thousand persons, stood + silent and uncovered, and the deep voice of the officiating priest was + heard over the whole square. At times the multitude sang responses, and I + could mark the sound, swelling and rolling up like a mighty wave, till it + broke and slowly sank down again to the deepest stillness. The effect was + marred by the rough voice of the officers commanding the soldiery, and the + volleys of musquetry which were occasionally discharged. It degraded the + solemnity of the pageant to the level of a military parade. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we were overtaken by a travelling <i>handwerker</i>, on + his way to Vienna, who joined company with us. We walked several miles + together, talking on various matters, without his having the least + suspicion we were not Germans. He had been at Trieste, and at length began + speaking of the great beauty of the American vessels there. "Yes," said I, + "<i>our</i> vessels are admired all over the world." He stared at me + without comprehending;—"<i>your</i> vessels?" "Our country's," I + replied; "we are Americans!" I can see still his look of incredulous + astonishment and hear the amazed tone with which he cried: "<i>You</i> + Americans—it is impossible!" We convinced him nevertheless, to his + great joy, for all through Germany there is a curiosity to see our + countrymen and a kindly feeling towards them. "I shall write down in my + book," said he, "so that I shall never forget it, that I once travelled + with two Americans!" We stopped together for the night at the only inn in + a large, beggarly village, where we obtained a frugal supper with + difficulty, for a regiment of Polish lancers was quartered there for the + night, and the pretty <i>Kellnerin</i> was so busy in waiting on the + officers that she had no eye for wandering journeymen, as she took us to + be. She even told us the beds were all occupied and we must sleep on the + floor. Just then the landlord came by. "Is it possible, Herr Landlord," + asked our new companion, "that there is no bed here for us? Have the + goodness to look again, for we are not in the habit of sleeping on the + floor, like dogs!" This speech had its effect, for the <i>Kellnerin</i> + was commanded to find us beds. She came back unwillingly after a time and + reported that <i>two</i>, only, were vacant. As a German bed is only a + yard wide, we pushed these two together, but they were still too small for + three persons, and I had a severe cold in the morning, from sleeping + crouched up against the damp wall. + </p> + <p> + The next day we passed the dividing ridge which separates the waters of + the Elbe from the Danube, and in the evening arrived at Znaim, the capital + of Moravia. It is built on a steep hill looking down on the valley of the + Thaya, whose waters mingle with the Danube near Pressburg. The old castle + on the height near, was formerly the residence of the Moravian monarchs, + and traces of the ancient walls and battlements of the city are still to + be seen. The handwerker took us to the inn frequented by his craft—the + leather-curriers—and we conversed together till bed-time. While + telling me of the oppressive laws of Austria, the degrading vassalage of + the peasants and the horrors of the conscription system, he paused as in + deep thought, and looking at me with a suppressed sigh, said: "Is it not + true, America is free?" I told him of our country and her institutions, + adding that though we were not yet as free as we hoped and wished to be, + we enjoyed far more liberty than any country in the world. "Ah!" said he, + "it is hard to leave one's fatherland oppressed as it is, but I wish I + could go to America!" + </p> + <p> + We left next morning at eight o'clock, after having done full justice to + the beds of the "Golden Stag," and taken leave of Florian Francke, the + honest and hearty old landlord. Znaim appears to great advantage from the + Vienna road; the wind which blew with fury against our backs, would not + permit us to look long at it, but pushed us on towards the Austrian + border. In the course of three hours we were obliged to stop at a little + village; it blew a perfect hurricane and the rain began to soak through + our garments. Here we stayed three hours among the wagoners who stopped on + account of the weather. One miserable, drunken wretch, whom one would not + wish to look at more than once, distinguished himself by insulting those + around him, and devouring like a beast, large quantities of food. When the + reckoning was given him, he declared he had already paid, and the waiter + denying it, he said, "Stop, I will show you something!" pulled out his + passport and pointed to the name—"Baron von Reitzenstein." It + availed nothing; he had fallen so low that his title inspired no respect, + and when we left the inn they were still endeavoring to get their money + and threatening him with a summary proceeding if the demand was not + complied with. + </p> + <p> + Next morning the sky was clear and a glorious day opened before us. The + country became more beautiful as we approached the Danube; the hills were + covered with vineyards, just in the tender green of their first leaves, + and the rich valleys lay in Sabbath stillness in the warm sunshine. + Sometimes from an eminence we could see far and wide over the garden-like + slopes, where little white villages shone among the blossoming + fruit-trees. A chain of blue hills rose in front, which I knew almost + instinctively stood by the Danube; when we climbed to the last height and + began to descend to the valley, where the river was still hidden by + luxuriant groves, I saw far to the southwest, a range of faint, silvery + summits, rising through the dim ether like an airy vision. There was no + mistaking those snowy mountains. My heart bounded with a sudden thrill of + rapturous excitement at this first view of <i>the Alps!</i> They were at a + great distance, and their outline was almost blended with the blue drapery + of air which clothed them. I gazed till my vision became dim and I could + no longer trace their airy lines. They called up images blended with the + grandest events in the world's history. I thought of the glorious spirits + who have looked upon them and trodden their rugged sides—of the + storms in which they veil their countenances, and the avalanches they hurl + thundering to the valleys—of the voices of great deeds, which have + echoed from their crags over the wide earth—and of the ages which + have broken, like the waves of a mighty sea, upon their everlasting + summits! + </p> + <p> + As we descended, the hills and forests shut out this sublime vision, and I + looked to the wood-clothed mountains opposite and tried to catch a glimpse + of the current that rolled at their feet. We here entered upon a rich + plain, about ten miles in diameter, which lay between a backward sweep of + the hills and a curve of the Danube. It was covered with the richest + grain; every thing wore the luxuriance of summer, and we seemed to have + changed seasons since leaving the dreary hills of Bohemia. Continuing over + the plain, we had on our left the fields of Wagram and Essling, the scene + of two of Napoleon's blood-bought victories. The outposts of the + Carpathians skirted the horizon—that great mountain range which + stretches through Hungary to the borders of Russia. + </p> + <p> + At length the road came to the river's side, and we crossed on wooden + bridges over two or three arms of the Danube, all of which together were + little wider than the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. When we crossed the last + bridge, we came to a kind of island covered with groves of the silver ash. + Crowds of people filled the cool walks; booths of refreshment stood by the + roadside, and music was everywhere heard. The road finally terminated in a + circle, where beautiful alleys radiated into the groves; from the opposite + side a broad street lined with stately buildings extended into the heart + of the city, and through this avenue, filled with crowds of carriages and + people on their way to those delightful walks, we entered Vienna! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. — VIENNA. + </h2> + <p> + <i>May 31.</i>—I have at last seen the thousand wonders of this + great capital—this German Paris—this connecting link between + the civilization of Europe and the barbaric magnificence of the East. It + looks familiar to be in a city again, whose streets are thronged with + people, and resound with the din and bustle of business. It reminds me of + the never-ending crowds of London, or the life and tumult of our scarcely + less active New York. Although the end may be sordid for which so many are + laboring, yet the very sight of so much activity is gratifying. It is + peculiarly so to an American. After residing in a foreign land for some + time, the peculiarities of our nation are more easily noticed; I find in + my countrymen abroad a vein of restless energy—a love for exciting + action—which to many of our good German friends is perfectly + incomprehensible. It might have been this which gave at once a favorable + impression of Vienna. + </p> + <p> + The morning of our arrival we sallied out from our lodgings in the + Leopoldstadt, to explore the world before us. Entering the broad + Praterstrasse, we passed down to the little arm of the Danube, which + separates this part of the new city from the old. A row of magnificent + coffee-houses occupy the bank, and numbers of persons were taking their + breakfasts in the shady porticoes. The Ferdinand's Bridge, which crosses + the stream, was filled with people; in the motley crowd we saw the + dark-eyed Greek, and Turks in their turbans and flowing robes. Little + brown Hungarian boys were going around, selling bunches of lilies, and + Italians with baskets of oranges stood by the side-walk. The throng became + greater as we penetrated into the old city. The streets were filled with + carts and carriages, and as there are no side-pavements, it required + constant attention to keep out of their way. Splendid shops, fitted up + with great taste, occupied the whole of the lower stories, and goods of + all kinds hung beneath the canvass awnings in front of them. Almost every + store or shop was dedicated to some particular person or place, which was + represented on a large panel by the door. The number of these paintings + added much to the splendor of the scene; I was gratified to find, among + the images of kings and dukes, one dedicated "<i>to the American</i>," + with an Indian chief in full costume. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Altstadt</i>, or old city, which contains about sixty thousand + inhabitants, is completely separated from the suburbs, whose population, + taking the whole extent within the outer barrier, numbers nearly half a + million. It is situated on a small arm of the Danube, and encompassed by a + series of public promenades, gardens and walks, varying from a quarter to + half a mile in length, called the Glacis. This formerly belonged to the + fortifications of the city, but as the suburbs grew up so rapidly on all + sides, it was changed appropriately to a public walk. The city is still + surrounded with a massive wall and a deep wide moat; but since it was + taken by Napoleon in 1809, the moat has been changed into a garden, with a + beautiful carriage road along the bottom, around the whole city. It is a + beautiful sight, to stand on the summit of the wall and look over the + broad Glacis, with its shady roads branching in every direction, and + filled with inexhaustible streams of people. The Vorstaedte, or new + cities, stretch in a circle around, beyond this; all the finest buildings + front on the Glacis, among which the splendid Vienna Theatre and the + church of San Carlo Borromeo are conspicuous. The mountains of the Vienna + Forest bound the view, with here and there a stately castle on their woody + summits. I was reminded of London as seen from Regent's Park, and truly + this part of Vienna can well compare with it. On penetrating into the + suburbs, the resemblance is at an end. Many of the public thoroughfares + are still unpaved, and in dry weather one is almost choked by the clouds + of fine dust. A furious wind blows from the mountains, sweeping the + streets almost constantly and filling the eyes and ears with it, making + the city an unhealthy residence for strangers. + </p> + <p> + There is no lack of places for pleasure or amusement. Beside the + numberless walks of the Glacis, there are the Imperial Gardens, with their + cool shades and flowers and fountains; the Augarten, laid out and opened + to the public by the Emperor Joseph: and the Prater, the largest and most + beautiful of all. It lies on an island formed by the arms of the Danube, + and is between two and three miles square. From the circle at the end of + the Praterstrasse, broad carriage-ways extend through its forests of oak + and silver ash, and over its verdant lawns to the principal stream, which + bounds it on the north. These roads are lined with stately horse chesnuts, + whose branches unite and form a dense canopy, completely shutting out the + sun. Every afternoon the beauty and nobility of Vienna whirl through the + cool groves in their gay equipages, while the sidewalks are thronged with + pedestrians, and the numberless tables and seats with which every house of + refreshment is surrounded, are filled with merry guests. Here, on Sundays + and holidays, the people repair in thousands. The woods are full of tame + deer, which run perfectly free over the whole Prater. I saw several in one + of the lawns, lying down in the grass, with a number of children playing + around or sitting beside them. It is delightful to walk there in the cool + of the evening, when the paths are crowded, and everybody is enjoying the + release from the dusty city. It is this free, social life which renders + Vienna so attractive to foreigners and draws yearly thousands of visitors + from all parts of Europe. + </p> + <p> + St. Stephen's Cathedral, in the centre of the old city, is one of the + finest specimens of Gothic architecture in Germany. Its unrivalled tower, + which rises to the height of four hundred and twenty-eight feet, is + visible from every part of Vienna. It is entirely of stone, most + elaborately ornamented, and is supposed to be the strongest in Europe. If + the tower was finished, it might rival any church in Europe in richness + and brilliancy of appearance. The inside is solemn and grand; but the + effect is injured by the number of small chapels and shrines. In one of + these rests, the remains of Prince Eugene of Savoy, "<i>der edle Ritter</i>," + known in a ballad to every man, woman and child in Germany. + </p> + <p> + The Belvidere Gallery fills thirty-five halls, and contains three thousand + pictures! It is absolutely bewildering to walk through such vast + collections; you can do no more than glance at each painting, and hurry by + face after face, and figure after figure, on which you would willingly + gaze for hours and inhale the atmosphere of beauty that surrounds them. + Then after you leave, the brain is filled with their forms—radiant + spirit-faces look upon you, and you see constantly, in fancy, the calm + brow of a Madonna, the sweet young face of a child, or the blending of + divine with mortal beauty in an angel's countenance. I endeavor, if + possible, always to make several visits—to study those pictures + which cling <i>first</i> to the memory, and pass over those which make + little or no impression. It is better to have a few images fresh and + enduring, than a confused and indistinct memory of many. + </p> + <p> + From the number of Madonnas in every European gallery, it would almost + seem that the old artists painted nothing else. The subject is one which + requires the highest genius to do it justice, and it is therefore + unpleasant to see so many still, inexpressive faces of the virgin and + child, particularly by the Dutch artists, who clothe their figures + sometimes in the stiff costume of their own time. Raphael and Murillo + appear to me to be almost the only painters who have expressed what, + perhaps, was above the power of other masters—the combined love and + reverence of the mother, and the divine expression in the face of the + child, prophetic of his mission and godlike power. + </p> + <p> + There were many glorious old paintings in the second story, which is + entirely taken up with pictures; two or three of the halls were devoted to + selected works from modern artists. Two of these I would give every thing + I have to possess. One of them is a winter scene, representing the portico + of an old Gothic church. At the base of one of the pillars a woman is + seated in the snow, half-benumbed, clasping an infant to her breast, while + immediately in front stands a boy of perhaps seven or eight years, his + little hands folded in prayer, while the chill wind tosses the long curls + from his forehead. There is something so pure and holy in the expression + of his childish countenance, so much feeling in the lip and sorrowful eye, + that it moves one almost to tears to look upon it. I turned back half a + dozen times from the other pictures to view it again, and blessed the + artist in my heart for the lesson he gave. The other is by a young Italian + painter, whose name I have forgotten, but who, if he never painted + anything else, is worthy a high place among the artists of his country. It + represents some scene from the history of Venice. On an open piazza, a + noble prisoner, wasted and pale from long confinement, has just had an + interview with his children. He reaches his arm toward them as if for the + last time, while a savage keeper drags him away. A lovely little girl + kneels at the feet of the Doge, but there is no compassion in his stern + features, and it is easy to see that her father is doomed. + </p> + <p> + The Lower Belvidere, separated from the Upper by a large garden, laid out + in the style of that at Versailles, contains the celebrated <i>Ambraser + Sammlung</i>, a collection of armor. In the first hall I noticed the + complete armor of the Emperor Maximilian, for man and horse—the + armor of Charles V., and Prince Moritz of Saxony, while the walls were + filled with figures of German nobles and knights, in the suits they wore + in life. There is also the armor of the great "Baver of Trient," trabant + of the Archduke Ferdinand. He was nearly nine feet in stature, and his + spear, though not equal to Satan's, in Paradise Lost, would still make a + tree of tolerable dimensions. + </p> + <p> + In the second hall we saw weapons taken from the Turkish army who besieged + Vienna, with the horse-tail standards of the Grand Vizier, Kara Mustapha. + The most interesting article was the battle-axe of the unfortunate + Montezuma, which was probably given to the Emperor Charles V., by Cortez. + It is a plain instrument of dark colored stone, about three feet long. + </p> + <p> + We also visited the <i>Bürgerliche Zeughaus</i>, a collection of arms and + weapons, belonging to the citizens of Vienna. It contains sixteen thousand + weapons and suits of armor, including those plundered from the Turks, when + John Sobieski conquered them and relieved Vienna from the siege. Besides a + great number of sabres, lances and horsetails, there is the blood-red + banner of the Grand Vizier, as well as his skull and shroud, which is + covered with sentences from the Koran. On his return to Belgrade, after + the defeat at Vienna, the Sultan sent him a bow-string, and he was + accordingly strangled. The Austrians having taken Belgrade some time + after, they opened his grave and carried off his skull and shroud, as well + as the bow-string, as relics. Another large and richly embroidered banner, + which hung in a broad sheet from the ceiling, was far more interesting to + me. It had once waved from the vessels of the Knights of Malta, and had, + perhaps, on the prow of the Grand Master's ship, led that romantic band to + battle against the Infidel. + </p> + <p> + A large number of peasants and common soldiers were admitted to view the + armory at the same time. The grave <i>custode</i> who showed us the + curiosities, explaining every thing in phrases known by heart for years + and making the same starts of admiration whenever he came to any thing + peculiarly remarkable, singled us out as the two persons most worthy of + attention. Accordingly his remarks were directed entirely to us, and his + humble countrymen might as well have been invisible, for the notice he + took of them. On passing out, we gave him a coin worth about fifteen + cents, which happened to be so much more than the others gave him, that, + bowing graciously, he invited us to write our names in the album for + strangers. While we were doing this, a poor handwerker lingered behind, + apparently for the same object, whom he scornfully dismissed, shaking the + fifteen cent piece in his hand, and saying: "The album is not for such as + you—it is for noble gentlemen!" + </p> + <p> + On our way through the city, we often noticed a house on the southern side + of St. Stephen's Platz, dedicated to "the Iron Stick." In a niche by the + window, stood what appeared to be the limb of a tree, completely filled + with nails, which were driven in so thick that no part of the original + wood is visible. We learned afterwards the legend concerning it. The + Vienna Forest is said to have extended, several hundred years ago, to this + place. A locksmith's apprentice was enabled, by the devil's help, to make + the iron bars and padlock which confine the limb in its place; every + locksmith's apprentice who came to Vienna after that, drove a nail into + it, till finally there was room for no more. It is a singular legend, and + whoever may have placed the limb there originally, there it has remained + for two or three hundred years at least. + </p> + <p> + We spent two or three hours delightfully one evening in listening to + Strauss's band. We went about sunset to the Odeon, a new building in the + Leopoldstadt. It has a refreshment hall nearly five hundred feet long, + with a handsome fresco ceiling and glass doors opening into a garden walk + of the same length. Both the hall and garden were filled with tables, + where the people seated themselves as they came, and conversed sociably + over their coffee and wine. The orchestra was placed in a little + ornamental temple in the garden, in front of which I stationed myself, for + I was anxious to see the world's waltz-king, whose magic tones can set the + heels of half Christendom in motion. After the band had finished tuning + their instruments, a middle-sized, handsome man stepped forward with long + strides, with a violin in one hand and bow in the other, and began waving + the latter up and down, like a magician summoning his spirits. As if he + had waved the sound out of his bow, the tones leaped forth from the + instruments, and guided by his eye and hand, fell into a merry measure. + The accuracy with which every instrument performed its part, was truly + marvellous. He could not have struck the measure or the harmony more + certainly from the keys of his own piano, than from that large band. The + sounds struggled forth, so perfect and distinct, that one almost expected + to see them embodied, whirling in wild dance around him. Sometimes the air + was so exquisitely light and bounding, the feet could scarcely keep on the + earth; then it sank into a mournful lament, with a sobbing tremulousness, + and died away in a long-breathed sigh. Strauss seemed to feel the music in + every limb. He would wave his fiddle-bow awhile, then commence playing + with desperate energy, moving his whole body to the measure, till the + sweat rolled from his brow. A book was lying on the stand before him, but + he made no use of it. He often glanced around with a kind of + half-triumphant smile at the restless crowd, whose feet could scarcely be + restrained from bounding to the magic measure. It was the horn of Oberon + realized. The composition of the music displayed great talent, but its + charm consisted more in the exquisite combination of the different + instruments, and the perfect, the wonderful exactness with which each + performed its part—a piece of art of the most elaborate and refined + character. + </p> + <p> + The company, which consisted of several hundred, appeared to be full of + enjoyment. They sat under the trees in the calm, cool twilight, with the + stars twinkling above, and talked and laughed sociably together between + the pauses of the music, or strolled up and down the lighted alleys. We + walked up and down with them, and thought how much we should enjoy such a + scene at home, where the faces around us would be those of friends, and + the language our mother tongue! + </p> + <p> + We went a long way through the suburbs one bright afternoon, to a little + cemetery about a mile from the city, to find the grave of Beethoven. On + ringing at the gate a girl admitted us into the grounds, in which are many + monuments of noble families who have vaults there. I passed up the narrow + walk, reading the inscriptions, till I came to the tomb of Franz Clement, + a young composer, who died two or three years ago. On turning again, my + eye fell instantly on the word "BEETHOVEN," in golden letters, on a + tombstone of gray marble. A simple gilded lyre decorated the pedestal, + above which was a serpent encircling a butterfly—the emblem of + resurrection to eternal life. Here then, mouldered the remains of that + restless spirit, who seemed to have strayed to earth from another clime, + from such a height did he draw his glorious conceptions. The perfection he + sought for here in vain, he has now attained in a world where the soul is + freed from the bars which bind it in this. There were no flowers planted + around the tomb by those who revered his genius; only one wreath, withered + and dead, lay among the grass, as if left long ago by some solitary + pilgrim, and a few wild buttercups hung with their bright blossoms over + the slab. It might have been wrong, but I could not resist the temptation + to steal one or two, while the old grave-digger was busy preparing a new + tenement. I thought that other buds would open in a few days, but those I + took would be treasured many a year as sacred relics. A few paces off is + the grave of Schubert, the composer, whose beautiful songs are heard all + over Germany. + </p> + <p> + It would employ one a week to visit all the rich collections of art in + Vienna. They are all open to the public on certain days of the week, and + we have been kept constantly in motion, running from one part of the city + to another, in order to arrive at some gallery at the appointed time. + Tickets, which have to be procured often in quite different parts of the + city, are necessary for admittance to many; on applying after much trouble + and search, we frequently found we came at the wrong hour, and must leave + without effecting our object. We employed no guide, but preferred finding + every thing ourselves. We made a list every morning, of the collections + open during the day, and employed the rest of the time in visiting the + churches and public gardens, or rambling through the suburbs. + </p> + <p> + We visited the Imperial Library a day or two ago. The hall is 245 feet + long, with a magnificent dome in the centre, under which stands the statue + of Charles V., of Carrara marble, surrounded by twelve other monarchs of + the house of Hapsburg. The walls are of variegated marble, richly + ornamented with gold, and the ceiling and dome are covered with brilliant + fresco paintings. The library numbers 300,000 volumes, and 16,000 + manuscripts, which are kept in walnut cases, gilded and adorned with + medallions. The rich and harmonious effect of the whole cannot easily be + imagined. It is exceedingly appropriate that a hall of such splendor, + should be used to hold a library. The pomp of a palace may seem hollow and + vain, for it is but the dwelling of a man; but no building can be too + magnificent for the hundreds of great and immortal spirits to dwell in, + who have visited earth during thirty centuries. + </p> + <p> + Among other curiosities preserved in the collection, we were shown a brass + plate, containing one of the records of the Roman Senate, made 180 years + before Christ, Greek manuscripts of the fifth and sixth centuries, and a + volume of Psalms, printed on parchment, in the year 1457, by Faust and + Schaeffer, the inventors of printing. There were also Mexican manuscripts, + presented by Cortez; the prayer-book of Hildegard, wife of Charlemagne, in + letters of gold; the signature of San Carlo Borromeo, and a Greek + testament of the thirteenth century, which had been used by Erasmus in + making his translation and contains notes in his own hand. The most + interesting article was the "Jerusalem Delivered" of Tasso, in the poet's + own hand, with his erasions and corrections. + </p> + <p> + We also visited the Cabinet of Natural History, which is open twice a week + "to all <i>respectably dressed</i> persons," as the notice at the door + says. But Heaven forbid that I should attempt to describe what we saw + there. The Mineral Cabinet had a greater interest to me, inasmuch as it + called up the recollections of many a school-boy ramble over the hills and + into all kinds of quarries, far and near. It is said to be the most + perfect collection in existence. I was pleased to find many old + acquaintances there, from the mines of Pennsylvania; Massachusetts and New + York were also very well represented. I had no idea before, that the + mineral wealth of Austria was so great. Besides the iron and lead mines + among the hills of Styria and the quicksilver of Idria, there is no small + amount of gold and silver found, and the Carpathian mountains are rich in + jasper, opal and lapiz lazuli. The largest opal ever found, was in this + collection. It weighs thirty-four ounces and looks like a condensed + rainbow. + </p> + <p> + In passing the palace, we saw several persons entering the basement story + under the Library, and had the curiosity to follow them. By so doing, we + saw the splendid equipages of the house of Austria. There must have been + near a hundred carriages and sleds, of every shape and style, from the + heavy, square vehicle of the last century to the most light and elegant + conveyance of the present day. One clumsy, but magnificent machine, of + crimson and gold, was pointed out as being a hundred and fifty years old. + The misery we witnessed in starving Bohemia, formed a striking contrast to + all this splendor. + </p> + <p> + Beside the Imperial Picture Gallery, there are several belonging to + princes and noblemen in Vienna, which are scarcely less valuable. The most + important of these is that of Prince Liechtenstein, which we visited + yesterday. We applied to the porter's lodge for admittance to the gallery, + but he refused to open it for two persons; as we did not wish a long walk + for nothing, we concluded to wait for other visitors. Presently a + gentleman and lady came and inquired if the gallery was open. We told him + it would probably be opened now, although the porter required a larger + number, and he went to ask. After a short time he returned, saying: "He + will come immediately; I thought best to put the number a little higher, + and so I told him there were <i>six</i> of us!" Having little artistic + knowledge of paintings, I judge of them according to the effect they + produce upon me—in proportion as they gratify the innate love for + the beautiful and the true. I have been therefore disappointed in some + painters whose names are widely known, and surprised again to find works + of great beauty by others of smaller fame. Judging by such a standard, I + should say that "Cupid sleeping in the lap of Venus," by Correggio, is the + glory of this collection. The beautiful limbs of the boy-god droop in the + repose of slumber, as his head rests on his mother's knee, and there is a + smile lingering around his half-parted lips, as if he was dreaming new + triumphs. The face is not that of the wicked, mischief-loving child, but + rather a sweet cherub, bringing a blessing to all he visits. The figure of + the goddess is exquisite. Her countenance, unearthly in its loveliness, + expresses the tenderness of a young mother, as she sits with one finger + pressed on her rosy lip, watching his slumber. It is a picture which + "stings the brain with beauty." + </p> + <p> + The chapel of St. Augustine contains one of the best works of Canova—the + monument of the Grand Duchess, Maria Christina, of Sachsen-Teschen. It is + a pyramid of gray marble, twenty-eight feet high, with an opening in the + side, representing the entrance to a sepulchre. A female figure + personating Virtue bears in an urn to the grave, the ashes of the + departed, attended by two children with torches. The figure of Compassion + follows, leading an aged beggar to the tomb of his benefactor, and a + little child with its hands folded. On the lower step rests a mourning + Genius beside a sleeping lion, and a bas-relief on the pyramid above + represents an angel carrying Christina's image, surrounded with the emblem + of eternity, to Heaven. A spirit of deep sorrow, which is touchingly + portrayed in the countenance of the old man, pervades the whole group. + While we looked at it, the organ breathed out a slow, mournful strain, + which harmonized so fully with the expression of the figures, that we + seemed to be listening to the requiem of the one they mourned. The + combined effect of music and sculpture, thus united in their deep pathos, + was such, that I could have sat down and wept. It was not from sadness at + the death of a benevolent though unknown individual,—but the feeling + of grief, of perfect, unmingled sorrow, so powerfully represented, came to + the heart like an echo of its own emotion, and carried it away with + irresistible influence. Travellers have described the same feeling while + listening to the Miserere in the Sistine Chapel, at Rome. Canova could not + have chiseled the monument without tears. + </p> + <p> + One of the most interesting objects in Vienna, is the Imperial Armory. We + were admitted through tickets previously procured from the Armory + Direction; as there was already one large company within, we were told to + wait in the court till our turn came. Around the wall on the inside, is + suspended the enormous chain which the Turks stretched across the Danube + at Buda, in the year 1529, to obstruct the navigation. It has eight + thousand links and is nearly a mile in length. The court is filled with + cannon of all shapes and sizes, many of which were conquered from other + nations. I saw a great many which were cast during the French Revolution, + with the words "<i>Liberté! Egalité!</i>" upon them, and a number of + others bearing the simple letter "N." + </p> + <p> + Finally the first company came down and the forty or fifty persons who had + collected during the interval, were admitted. The Armory runs around a + hollow square, and must be at least a quarter of a mile in length. We were + all taken into a circular hall, made entirely of weapons, to represent the + four quarters of the globe. Here the crusty old guide who admitted us, + rapped with his stick on the shield of an old knight who stood near, to + keep silence, and then addressed us: "When I speak every one must be + silent. No one can write or draw anything. No one shall touch anything, or + go to look at anything else, before I have done speaking. Otherwise, they + shall be taken immediately into the street again!" Thus in every hall he + rapped and scolded, driving the women to one side with his stick and the + men to the other, till we were nearly through, when the thought of the + coming fee made him a little more polite. He had a regular set of + descriptions by heart, which he went through with a great flourish, + pointing particularly to the common military caps of the late Emperors of + Prussia and Austria, as "treasures beyond all price to the nation!" + Whereupon, the crowd of common people gazed reverently on the shabby + beavers, and I verily believe, would have devoutly kissed them, had the + glass covering been removed. I happened to be next to a tall, dignified + young man, who looked on all this with a displeasure almost amounting to + contempt. Seeing I was a foreigner, he spoke, in a low tone, bitterly of + the Austrian government. "You are not then an Austrian?" I asked. "No, + thank God!" was the reply: "but I have seen enough of Austrian tyranny. I + am a Pole!" + </p> + <p> + The first wing contains banners used in the French Revolution, and liberty + trees with the red cap; the armor of Rudolph of Hapsburg, Maximilian I., + the Emperor Charles V., and the hat, sword and order of Marshal + Schwarzenberg. Some of the halls represent a fortification, with walls, + ditches and embankments, made of muskets and swords. A long room in the + second wing contains an encampment, in which twelve or fifteen large tents + are formed in like manner. Along the sides are grouped old Austrian + banners, standards taken from the French, and horsetails and flags + captured from the Turks. "They make a great boast," said the Pole, "of a + half dozen French colors, but let them go to the Hospital des Invalides, + in Paris, and they will find <i>hundreds</i> of the best banners of + Austria!" They also exhibited the armor of a dwarf king of Bohemia and + Hungary, who died, a gray-headed old man, in his twentieth year; the sword + of Marlborough; the coat of Gustavus Adolphus, pierced in the breast and + back with the bullet which killed him at Lützen; the armor of the old + Bohemian princess Libussa, and that of the amazon Wlaska, with a steel + visor made to fit the features of her face. The last wing was the most + remarkable. Here we saw the helm and breastplate of Attila, king of the + Huns, which once glanced at the head of his myriads of wild hordes, before + the walls of Rome; the armor of Count Stahremberg, who commanded Vienna + during the Turkish siege in 1529, and the holy banner of Mahomet, taken at + that time from the Grand Vizier, together with the steel harness of John + Sobieski of Poland, who rescued Vienna from the Turkish troops under Kara + Mustapha; the hat, sword and breastplate of Godfrey of Bouillon, the + Crusader-king of Jerusalem, with the banners of the cross the Crusaders + had borne to Palestine, and the standard they captured from the Turks on + the walls of the Holy City! I felt all my boyish enthusiasm for the + romantic age of the Crusaders revive, as I looked on the torn and + mouldering banners which once waved on the hills of Judea, or perhaps + followed the sword of the Lion Heart through the fight on the field of + Ascalon! What tales could they not tell, those old standards, cut and + shivered by spear and lance! What brave hands have carried them through + the storm of battle, what dying eyes have looked upwards to the cross on + their folds, as the last prayer was breathed for the rescue of the Holy + Sepulchre! + </p> + <p> + I must now close the catalogue. This morning we shall look upon Vienna for + the last time. Our knapsacks are repacked, and the passports (precious + documents!) visèd for Munich. The getting of this visè, however, caused a + comical scene at the Police Office, yesterday. We entered the Inspector's + Hall and took our stand quietly among the crowd of persons who were + gathered around a railing which separated them from the main office. One + of the clerks came up, scowling at us, and asked in a rough tone, "What do + you want here?" We handed him our tickets of sojourn (for when a traveler + spends more than twenty-four hours in a German city, he must take out a + permission and pay for it) with the request that he would give us our + passports. He glanced over the tickets, came back and with constrained + politeness asked us to step within the railing. Here we were introduced to + the Chief Inspector. "Desire Herr—— to come here," said he to + a servant; then turning to us, "I am happy to see the gentlemen in + Vienna." An officer immediately came up, who addressed us in fluent + English. "You may speak in your native tongue," said the Inspector:—"excuse + our neglect; from the facility with which you speak German, we supposed + you were natives of Austria!" Our passports were signed at once and given + us with a gracious bow, accompanied by the hope that we would visit Vienna + again before long. All this, of course, was perfectly unintelligible to + the wondering crowd outside the railing. Seeing however, the honors we + were receiving, they crowded back and respectfully made room for us to + pass out. I kept a grave face till we reached the bottom of the stairs, + when I gave way to restrained laughter in a manner that shocked the + dignity of the guard, who looked savagely at me over his forest of + moustache. I would nevertheless have felt grateful for the attention we + received as Americans, were it not for our uncourteous reception as + suspected Austrians. + </p> + <p> + We have just been exercising the risible muscles again, though from a very + different cause, and one which, according to common custom, ought to draw + forth symptoms of a lachrymose nature. This morning B—— + suggested an examination of our funds, for we had neglected keeping a + strict account, and what with being cheated in Bohemia and tempted by the + amusements of Vienna, there was an apparent dwindling away. So we emptied + our pockets and purses, counted up the contents, and found we had just ten + florins, or four dollars apiece. The thought of our situation, away in the + heart of Austria, five hundred miles from our Frankfort home, seems + irresistibly laughable. By allowing twenty days for the journey, we shall + have half a florin a day, to travel on. This is a homoeopathic allowance, + indeed, but we have concluded to try it. So now adieu, Vienna! In two + hours we shall be among the hills again. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. — UP THE DANUBE. + </h2> + <p> + We passed out of Vienna in the face of one of the strongest winds it was + ever my lot to encounter. It swept across the plain with such force that + it was almost impossible to advance till we got under the lee of a range + of hills. About two miles from the barrier we passed Schoenbrunn, the + Austrian Versailles. It was built by the Empress Maria Theresa, and was + the residence of Napoleon in 1809, when Vienna was in the hands of the + French. Later, in 1832, the Duke of Reichstadt died in the same room which + his father once occupied. Behind the palace is a magnificent garden, at + the foot of a hill covered with rich forests and crowned with an open + pillared hall, 300 feet long, called the <i>Gloriette</i>. The colossal + eagle which surmounts it, can be seen a great distance. + </p> + <p> + The lovely valley in which Schoenbrunn lies, follows the course of the + little river Vienna into the heart of that mountain region lying between + the Styrian Alps and the Danube, and called the Vienna Forest. Into this + our road led, between hills covered with wood, with here and there a + lovely green meadow, where herds of cattle were grazing. The third day we + came to the Danube again at Melk, a little city built under the edge of a + steep hill, on whose summit stands the palace-like abbey of the + Benedictine Monks. The old friars must have had a merry life of it, for + the wine-cellar of the abbey furnished the French army 50,000 measures for + several days in succession. The shores of the Danube here are extremely + beautiful. The valley where it spreads out, is filled with groves, but + where the hills approach the stream, its banks are rocky and precipitous, + like the Rhine. Although not so picturesque as the latter river, the + scenery of the Danube is on a grander scale. On the south side the + mountains bend down to it with a majestic sweep, and there must be + delightful glances into the valleys that lie between, in passing down the + current. + </p> + <p> + But we soon left the river, and journeyed on through the enchanting inland + vales. To give an idea of the glorious enjoyment of traveling through such + scenes, let me copy a leaf out of my journal, written as we rested at noon + on the top of a lofty hill:—"Here, while the delightful mountain + breeze that comes fresh from the Alps cools my forehead, and the pines + around are sighing their eternal anthem, I seize a few moments to tell + what a paradise is around me. I have felt an elevation of mind and spirit, + a perfect rapture from morning till night, since we left Vienna. It is the + brightest and balmiest June weather; an ever fresh breeze sings through + the trees and waves the ripening grain on the verdant meadows and + hill-slopes. The air is filled with bird-music. The larks sing above us + out of sight, the bullfinch wakes his notes in the grove, and at eve the + nightingale pours forth her thrilling strain. The meadows are literally + covered with flowers—beautiful purple salvias, pinks such as we have + at home in our gardens and glowing buttercups, color the banks of every + stream. I never saw richer or more luxuriant foliage. Magnificent forests + clothe the hills, and the villages are imbedded in fruit trees, shrubbery + and flowers. Sometimes we go for miles through some enchanting valley, + lying like a paradise between the mountains, while the distant, white Alps + look on it from afar; sometimes over swelling ranges of hills, where we + can see to the right the valley of the Danube, threaded by his silver + current and dotted with white cottages and glittering spires, and farther + beyond, the blue mountains of the Bohemian Forest. To the left, the range + of the Styrian Alps stretches along the sky, summit above summit, the + farther ones robed in perpetual snow. I could never tire gazing on those + glorious hills. They fill the soul with a conception of sublimity, such as + one feels when listening to triumphal music. They seem like the marble + domes of a mighty range of temples, where earth worships her Maker with an + organ-anthem of storms! + </p> + <p> + "There is a <i>luxury</i> in traveling here. We walk all day through such + scenes, resting often in the shade of the fruit trees which line the road, + or on a mossy bank by the side of some cool forest. Sometimes for + enjoyment as well as variety, we make our dining-place by a clear spring + instead of within a smoky tavern; and our simple meals have a relish an + epicure could never attain. Away with your railroads and steamboats and + mail-coaches, or keep them for those who have no eye but for the sordid + interests of life! With my knapsack and pilgrim-staff, I ask not their + aid. If a mind and soul full of rapture with beauty, a frame in glowing + and vigorous health, and slumbers unbroken even by dreams, are blessings + any one would attain, let him pedestrianize it through Lower Austria!" + </p> + <p> + I have never been so strongly and constantly reminded of America, as + during this journey. Perhaps the balmy season, the same in which I last + looked upon the dear scenes of home, may have its effect; but there is + besides a richness in the forests and waving fields of grain, a wild + luxuriance over every landscape, which I have seen nowhere else in Europe. + The large farm houses, buried in orchards, scattered over the valleys, add + to the effect. Everything seems to speak of happiness and prosperity. + </p> + <p> + We were met one morning by a band of wandering Bohemian gipsies—the + first of the kind I ever saw. A young woman with a small child in her arms + came directly up to me, and looking full in my face with her wild black + eyes, said, without any preface: "Yes, he too has met with sorrow and + trouble already, and will still have more. But he is not false—he is + true and sincere, and will also meet with good luck!" She said she could + tell me three numbers with which I should buy a lottery ticket and win a + great prize. I told her I would have nothing to do with the lottery, and + would buy no ticket, but she persisted, saying: "Has he a twenty kreutzer + piece?—will he give it? Lay it in his hand and make a cross over it, + and I will reveal the numbers!" On my refusal, she became angry, and left + me, saying: "Let him take care—the third day something will happen + to him!" An old, wrinkled hag made the same proposition to my companion + with no better success. They reminded me strikingly of our Indians; their + complexion is a dark brown, and their eyes and hair are black as night. + These belonged to a small tribe who wander through the forests of Bohemia, + and support themselves by cheating and stealing. + </p> + <p> + We stopped the fourth night at Enns, a small city on the river of the same + name, which divides Upper from Lower Austria. After leaving the beautiful + little village where we passed the night before, the road ascended one of + those long ranges of hills, which stretch off from the Danube towards the + Alps. We walked for miles over the broad and uneven summit, enjoying the + enchanting view which opened on both sides. If we looked to the right, we + could trace the windings of the Danube for twenty miles, his current + filled with green, wooded islands; white cities lie at the foot of the + hills, which, covered to the summit with grain fields and vineyards, + extended back one behind another, till the farthest were lost in the + distance. I was glad we had taken the way from Vienna to Linz by land, for + from the heights we had a view of the whole course of the Danube, enjoying + besides, the beauty of the inland vales and the far-off Styrian Alps. From + the hills we passed over we could see the snowy range as far as the Alps + of Salzburg—some of them seemed robed to the very base in their + white mantles. In the morning the glaciers on their summit glittered like + stars; it was the first time I saw the sun reflected at a hundred miles' + distance! + </p> + <p> + On descending we came into a garden-like plain, over which rose the towers + of Enns, built by the ransom money paid to Austria for the deliverance of + the Lion-hearted Richard. The country legends say that St. Florian was + thrown into the river by the Romans in the third century, with a millstone + around his neck, which, however, held him above the water like cork, until + he had finished preaching them a sermon. In the villages we often saw his + imago painted on the houses, in the act of pouring a pail of water on a + burning building, with the inscription beneath—"Oh, holy Florian, + pray for us!" This was supposed to be a charm against fire. In Upper + Austria, it is customary to erect a shrine on the road, wherever an + accident has happened, with a painting and description of it, and an + admonition to all passers-by to pray for the soul of the unfortunate + person. On one of them, for instance, was a cart with a wild ox, which a + man was holding by the horns; a woman kneeling by the wheels appeared to + be drawing a little girl by the feet from under it, and the inscription + stated: "By calling on Jesus, Mary and Joseph, the girl was happily + rescued." Many of the shrines had images which the people no doubt, in + their ignorance and simplicity, considered holy, but they were to us + impious and almost blasphemous. + </p> + <p> + From Enns a morning's walk brought us to Linz. The peasant girls in their + broad straw hats were weeding the young wheat, looking as cheerful and + contented as the larks that sung above them. A mile or two from Linz we + passed one or two of the round towers belonging to the new fortifications + of the city. As walls have grown out of fashion, Duke Maximilian + substituted an invention of his own. The city is surrounded by thirty two + towers, one to three miles distant from it, and so placed that they form a + complete line of communication and defence. They are sunk in the earth, + surrounded with a ditch and embankments, and each is capable of containing + ten cannon and three hundred men. The pointed roofs of these towers are + seen on all the hills around. We were obliged to give up our passports at + the barrier, the officer telling us to call for them in three hours at the + City Police Office; we spent the intervening time very agreeably in + rambling through this gay, cheerful-looking town. With its gilded spires + and ornamented houses, with their green lattice blinds, it reminds one + strongly of Italy, or at least, of what Italy is said to be. It has now + quite an active and business-like aspect, occasioned by the steamboat and + railroad lines which connect it with Vienna, Prague, Ratisbon and + Salzburg. Although we had not exceeded our daily allowance by more than a + few kreutzers, we found that twenty days would be hardly sufficient to + accomplish the journey, and our funds must therefore be replenished. + Accordingly I wrote from Linz to Frankfort, directing a small sum to be + forwarded to Munich, which city we hoped to reach in eight days. + </p> + <p> + We took the horse cars at Linz for Lambach, seventeen miles on the way + towards Gmunden. The mountains were covered with clouds as we approached + them, and the storms they had been brewing for two or three days began to + march down on the plain. They had nearly reached us, when we crossed the + Traun and arrived at Lambach, a small city built upon a hill. We left the + next day at noon, and on ascending the hill after crossing the Traun, had + an opportunity of seeing the portrait on the Traunstein, of which the old + landlord told us. I saw it at the first glance—certainly it is a + most remarkable freak of nature. The rough back of the mountain forms the + exact profile of the human countenance, as if regularly hewn out of the + rock. What is still more singular, it is said to be a correct portrait of + the unfortunate Louis XVI. The landlord said it was immediately recognized + by all Frenchmen. The road followed the course of the Traun, whose green + waters roared at the bottom of the glen below us; we walked for several + miles through a fine forest, through whose openings we caught glimpses of + the mountains we longed to reach. + </p> + <p> + The river roared at last somewhat louder, and on looking down the bank, I + saw rocks and rapids, and a few houses built on the edge of the stream. + Thinking it must be near the fall, we went down the path, and lo! on + crossing a little wooden bridge, the whole affair burst in sight! Judge of + our surprise at finding a fall of fifteen feet, after we had been led to + expect a tremendous leap of forty or fifty, with all the accompaniment of + rocks and precipices. Of course the whole descent of the river at the + place was much greater, and there were some romantic cascades over the + rocks which blocked its course. Its greatest beauty consisted in the color + of the water—the brilliant green of the waves being broken into foam + of the most dazzling white—and the great force with which it is + thrown below. + </p> + <p> + The Traunstein grew higher as we approached, presenting the same profile + till we had nearly reached Gmunden. From the green upland meadows above + the town, the view of the mountain range was glorious, and I could easily + conceive the effect of the Unknown Student's appeal to the people to fight + for those free hills. I think it is Howitt who relates the incident—one + of the most romantic in German history. Count Pappenheim led his forces + here in the year 1626, to suppress a revolution of the people of the whole + Salzburg region, who had risen against an invasion of their rights by the + Austrian government. The battle which took place on these meadows was + about being decided in favor of the oppressors, when a young man, clad as + a student, suddenly appeared and addressed the people, pointing to the + Alps above them and the sweet lake below, and asking if that land should + not be free. The effect was electrical; they returned to the charge and + drove back the troops of Pappenheim, who were about taking to flight, when + the unknown leader fell, mortally wounded. This struck a sudden panic + through his followers, and the Austrians turning again, gained a complete + victory. But the name of the brave student is unknown, his deed unsung by + his country's bards, and almost forgotten. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. — THE UNKNOWN STUDENT. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Ha! spears on Gmunden's meadows green, + And banners on the wood-crowned height! + Rank after rank, their helmets' sheen + Sends back the morning light! + Where late the mountain maiden sang, + The battle-trumpet's brazen clang + Vibrates along the air; + And wild dragoons wheel o'er the plain. + Trampling to earth the yellow grain, + From which no more the merry swain + His harvest sheaves shall bear. + + The eagle, in his sweep at morn, + To meet the monarch-sun on high, + Heard the unwonted warrior's horn + Peal faintly up the sky! + He saw the foemen, moving slow + In serried legions, far below, + Against that peasant-band, + Who dared to break the tyrant's thrall + And by the sword of Austria fall, + Or keep the ancient Right of all, + Held by their mountain-land; + + They came to meet that mail-clad host + From glen and wood and ripening field; + A brave, stout arm, each man could boast— + A soul, unused to yield! + They met: a shout, prolonged and loud, + Went hovering upward with the cloud + That closed around them dun; + Blade upon blade unceasing clashed, + Spears in the onset shivering crashed, + And the red glare of cannon flashed + Athwart the smoky sun! + + The mountain warriors wavered back, + Borne down by myriads of the foe, + Like pines before the torrent's track + When spring has warmed the snow. + Shall Faith and Freedom vainly call, + And Gmunden's warrior-herdsmen fall + On the red field in vain? + No! from the throng that back retired, + A student boy sprang forth inspired, + And while his words their bosoms fired, + Led on the charge again! + + "And thus your free arms would ye give + So tamely to a tyrant's band, + And with the hearts of vassals live + In this, your chainless land? + The emerald lake is spread below, + And tower above, the hills of snow— + Here, field and forest lie; + This land, so glorious and so free— + Say, shall it crushed and trodden be? + Say, would ye rather bend the knee + Than for its freedom die? + + "Look! yonder stand in mid-day's glare + The everlasting Alps of snow, + And from their peaks a purer air + Breathes o'er the vales below! + The Traun his brow is bent in pride— + He brooks no craven on his side— + Would ye be fettered then? + There lifts the Sonnenstein his head, + There chafes the Traun his rocky bed + And Aurach's lovely vale is spread— + Look on them and be men! + + "Let, like a trumpet's sound of fire, + <i>These</i> stir your souls to manhood's part— + The glory of the Alps inspire + Each yet unconquered heart! + For, through their unpolluted air + Soars fresher up the grateful prayer + From freemen, unto God;— + A blessing on those mountains old! + On to the combat, brethren bold! + Strike, that ye free the valleys hold, + Where free your fathers trod!" + + And like a mighty storm that tears + The icy avalanche from its bed, + They rushed against th' opposing spears— + The student at their head! + The bands of Austria fought in vain; + A bloodier harvest heaped the plain + At every charge they made; + Each herdsman was a hero then— + The mountain hunters stood like men, + And echoed from the farthest glen + The clash of blade on blade! + + The banner in the student's hand + Waved triumph from the fight before; + What terror seized the conq'ring band?— + It fell, to rise no more! + And with it died the lofty flame, + That from his lips in lightning came + And burned upon their own; + Dread Pappenheim led back the foe, + The mountain peasants yielded slow, + And plain above and lake below + Were red when evening shone! + + Now many a year has passed away + Since battle's blast rolled o'er the plain, + The Alps are bright in morning's ray— + The Traunstein smiles again. + But underneath the flowery sod, + By happy peasant children trod, + A hero's ashes lay. + O'er him no grateful nation wept, + Fame, of his deed no record kept, + And dull Forgetfulness hath swept + His very name away! + + In many a grave, by poets sung, + There falls to dust a lofty brow, + But he alone, the brave and young, + Sleeps there forgotten now. + The Alps upon that field look down, + Which won his bright and brief renown, + Beside the lake's green shore; + Still wears the land a tyrant's chain— + Still bondmen tread the battle-plain, + Culled by his glorious soul in vain + To win their rights of yore. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV. — THE AUSTRIAN ALPS. + </h2> + <p> + It was nearly dark when we came to the end of the plain and looked on the + city at our feet and the lovely lake that lost itself in the mountains + before us. We were early on board the steamboat next morning, with a + cloudless sky above us and a snow-crested Alp beckoning on from the end of + the lake. The water was of the most beautiful green hue, the morning light + colored the peaks around with purple, and a misty veil rolled up the rocks + of the Traunstein. We stood on the prow and enjoyed to the fullest extent + the enchanting scenery. The white houses of Gmunden sank down to the + water's edge like a flock of ducks; halfway we passed castle Ort, on a + rock in the lake, whose summit is covered with trees. + </p> + <p> + As we neared the other extremity, the mountains became steeper and + loftier; there was no path along their wild sides, nor even a fisher's hut + nestled at their feet, and the snow filled the ravines more than half-way + from the summit. An hour and a quarter brought us to Ebensee, at the head + of the lake, where we landed and plodded on towards Ischl, following the + Traun up a narrow valley, whose mountain walls shut out more than half the + sky. They are covered with forests, and the country is inhabited entirely + by the woodmen who fell the mountain pines and float the timber rafts down + to the Danube. The steeps are marked with white lines, where the trees + have been rolled, or rather <i>thrown</i> from the summit. Often they + descend several miles over rooks and precipices, where the least deviation + from the track would dash them in a thousand pieces. This generally takes + place in the winter when the sides are covered with snow and ice. It must + be a dangerous business, for there are many crosses by the way-side where + the pictures represent persons accidentally killed by the trees; an + additional painting represents them as burning in the flames of purgatory, + and the pious traveler is requested to pray an Ave or a Paternoster for + the repose of their souls. + </p> + <p> + On we went, up the valley of the Traun, between mountains five and six + thousand feet high, through scenes constantly changing and constantly + grand, for three or four hours. Finally the hills opened, disclosing a + little triangular valley, whose base was formed by a mighty mountain + covered with clouds. Through the two side angles came the Traun and his + tributary the Ischl, while the little town of Ischl lay in the centre. + Within a few years this has become a very fashionable bathing place, and + the influx of rich visitors, which in the summer sometimes amounts to two + thousand, has entirely destroyed the primitive simplicity the inhabitants + originally possessed. From Ischl we took a road through the forests to St. + Wolfgang, on the lake of the same name. The last part of the way led along + the banks of the lake, disclosing some delicious views. These Alpine lakes + surpass any scenery I have yet seen. The water is of the most beautiful + green, like a sheet of molten beryl, and the cloud-piercing mountains that + encompass them shut out the sun for nearly half the day. St. Wolfgang is a + lovely village in a cool and quiet nook at the foot of the Schafberg. The + houses tire built in the picturesque Swiss style, with flat, projecting + roofs and ornamented balconies, and the people are the very picture of + neatness and cheerfulness. + </p> + <p> + We started next morning to ascend the Schafberg, which is called the Righi + of the Austrian Switzerland. It is somewhat higher than its Swiss + namesake, and commands a prospect scarcely less extensive or grand. We + followed a footpath through the thick forest by the side of a roaring + torrent. The morning mist still covered the lake, but the white summits of + the Salzburg and Noric Alps opposite us, rose above it and stood pure and + bright in the upper air. We passed a little mill and one or two cottages, + and then wound round one of the lesser heights into a deep ravine, down in + whose dark shadow we sometimes heard the axe and saw of the mountain + woodmen. Finally the path disappeared altogether under a mass of logs and + rocks, which appeared to have been whirled together by a sudden flood. We + deliberated what to do; the summit rose several thousand feet above us, + almost precipitously steep, but we did not like to turn back, and there + was still a hope of meeting with the path again. Clambering over the ruins + and rubbish we pulled ourselves by the limbs of trees up a steep ascent + and descended again to the stream. We here saw the ravine was closed by a + wall of rock and our only chance was to cross to the west side of the + mountain, where the ascent seemed somewhat easier. A couple of mountain + maidens whom we fortunately met, carrying home grass for their goats, told + us the mountain could be ascended on that side, by one who could climb <i>well</i>—laying + a strong emphasis on the word. The very doubt implied in this expression + was enough to decide us; so we began the work. And work it was, too! The + side was very steep, the trees all leaned downwards, and we slipped at + every step on the dry leaves and grass. After making a short distance this + way with the greatest labor, we came to the track of an avalanche, which + had swept away the trees and earth. Here the rock had been worn rough by + torrents, but by using both hands and feet, we clomb directly up the side + of the mountain, sometimes dragging ourselves up by the branches of trees + where the rocks were smooth. After half an hour of such work we came above + the forests, on the bare side of the mountain. The summit was far above us + and so steep that our limbs involuntarily shrunk from the task of + climbing. The side ran up at an angle of nearly sixty degrees, and the + least slip threw us flat on our faces. We had to use both hand and foot, + and were obliged to rest every few minutes to recover breath. + Crimson-flowered moss and bright blue gentians covered the rocks, and I + filled my books with blossoms for friends at home. + </p> + <p> + Up and up, for what seemed an age, we clambered. So steep was it, that the + least rocky projection hid my friend from sight, as he was coming up below + me. I let stones roll sometimes, which went down, down, almost like a + cannonball, till I could see them no more. At length we reached the region + of dwarf pines, which was even more difficult to pass through. Although + the mountain was not so steep, this forest, centuries old, reached no + higher than our breasts, and the trees leaned downwards, so that we were + obliged to take hold of the tops of those above us, and drag ourselves up + through the others. Here and there lay large patches of snow; we sat down + in the glowing June sun, and bathed our hands and faces in it. Finally the + sky became bluer and broader, the clouds seemed nearer, and a few more + steps through the bushes brought us to the summit of the mountain, on the + edge of a precipice a thousand feet deep, whose bottom stood in a vast + field of snow! + </p> + <p> + We lay down on the heather, exhausted by five hours' incessant toil, and + drank in like a refreshing draught, the sublimity of the scene, The green + lakes of the Salzburg Alps lay far below us, and the whole southern + horizon was filled with the mighty range of the Styrian and Noric Alps, + their summits of never-melting snow mingling and blending with the clouds. + On the other side the mountains of Salzburg lifted their ridgy backs from + the plains of Bavaria and the Chiem lake lay spread out in the blue + distance. A line of mist far to the north betrayed the path of the Danube, + and beyond it we could barely trace the outline of the Bohemian mountains. + With a glass the spires of Munich, one hundred and twenty miles distant, + can be seen. It was a view whose grandeur I can never forget. In that dome + of the cloud we seemed to breathe a purer air than that of earth. + </p> + <p> + After an hour or two, we began to think of descending, as the path was yet + to be found. The summit, which was a mile or more in length, extended + farther westward, and by climbing over the dwarf pines for some time, we + saw a little wooden house above us. It stood near the highest part of the + peak, and two or three men were engaged in repairing it, as a shelter for + travelers. They pointed out the path which went down on the side toward + St. Gilgen, and we began descending. The mountain on this side is much + less steep, but the descent is fatiguing enough. The path led along the + side of a glen where mountain goats were grazing, and further down we saw + cattle feeding on the little spots of verdure which lay in the forest. My + knees became so weak from this continued descent, that they would scarcely + support me; but we were three hours, partly walking and partly running + down, before we reached the bottom. Half an hour's walk around the head of + the St. Wolfgang See, brought us to the little village of St. Gilgen. + </p> + <p> + The valley of St. Gilgen lies like a little paradise between the + mountains. Lovely green fields and woods slope gradually from the mountain + behind, to the still greener lake spread out before it, in whose bosom the + white Alps are mirrored. Its picturesque cottages cluster around the neat + church with its lofty spire, and the simple inhabitants have countenances + as bright and cheerful as the blue sky above them. We breathed an air of + poetry. The Arcadian simplicity of the people, the pastoral beauty of the + fields around and the grandeur of the mountains which shut it out from the + world, realized my ideas of a dwelling place, where, with a few kindred + spirits, the bliss of Eden might almost be restored. + </p> + <p> + We stopped there two or three hours to relieve our hunger and fatigue. My + boots had suffered severely in our mountain adventure, and I called at a + shoemaker's cottage to get them repaired. I sat down and talked for half + an hour with the family. The man and his wife spoke of the delightful + scenery around them, and expressed themselves with correctness and even + elegance. They were much pleased that I admired their village so greatly, + and related every thing which they supposed could interest me. As I rose + to go, my head nearly touched the ceiling, which was very low. The man + exclaimed: "Ach Gott! how tall!" I told him the people were all tall in + our country; he then asked where I came from, and I had no sooner said + America, than he threw up his hands and uttered an ejaculation of the + greatest surprise. His wife observed that "it was wonderful how far man + was permitted to travel." They wished me a prosperous journey and a safe + return home. + </p> + <p> + St. Gilgen was also interesting to me from that beautiful chapter in + "Hyperion"—"Footsteps of Angels,"—and on passing the church on + my way back to the inn, I entered the graveyard mentioned in it. The green + turf grows thickly over the rows of mounds, with here and there a rose + planted by the hand of affection, and the white crosses were hung with + wreaths, some of which had been freshly laid on. Behind the church, under + the shade of a tree, stood a small chapel,—I opened the unfastened + door, and entered. The afternoon sun shone through the side window, and + all was still around. A little shrine, adorned with flowers, stood at the + other end, and there were two tablets on the wall, to persons who + slumbered beneath, I approached these and read on one of them with + feelings not easily described: "Look not mournfully into the past—it + comes not again; wisely improve the present—it is thine; and go + forward to meet the shadowy future, without fear, and with a manly heart!" + This then was the spot where Paul Flemming came in loneliness and sorrow + to muse over what he had lost, and these were the words whose truth and + eloquence strengthened and consoled him, "as if the unknown tenant of the + grave had opened his lips of dust and spoken those words of consolation + his soul needed." I sat down and mused a long time, for there was + something in the silent holiness of the spot, that impressed me more than + I could well describe. + </p> + <p> + We reached a little village on the Fuschel See, the same evening, and set + off the next morning for Salzburg. The day was hot and we walked slowly, + so that it was not till two o'clock that we saw the castellated rocks on + the side of the Gaissberg, guarding the entrance to the valley of + Salzburg. A short distance further, the whole glorious panorama was spread + out below us. From the height on which we stood, we looked directly on the + summit of the Capuchin Mountain, which hid part of the city from sight; + the double peak of the Staufen rose opposite, and a heavy storm was raging + along the Alpine heights around it, while the lovely valley lay in + sunshine below, threaded by the bright current of the Salza. As we + descended and passed around the foot of the hill, the Untersberg came in + sight, whose broad summits lift themselves seven thousand feet above the + plain. The legend says that Charlemagne and his warriors sit in its + subterraneous caverns in complete armor, and that they will arise and come + forth again, when Germany recovers her former power and glory. + </p> + <p> + I wish I could convey in words some idea of the elevation of spirit + experienced while looking on these eternal mountains. They fill the soul + with a sensation of power and grandeur which frees it awhile from the + cramps and fetters of common life. It rises and expands to the level of + their sublimity, till its thoughts stand solemnly aloft, like their + summits, piercing the free heaven. Their dazzling and imperishable beauty + is to the mind an image of its own enduring existence. When I stand upon + some snowy summit—the invisible apex of that mighty pyramid—there + seems a majesty in my weak will which might defy the elements. This sense + of power, inspired by a silent sympathy with the forms of nature, is + beautifully described—as shown in the free, unconscious instincts of + childhood—by the poet Uhland, in his ballad of the "Mountain Boy." I + have attempted a translation. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THE MOUNTAIN BOY. + + A herd-boy on the mountain's brow, + I see the castles all below. + The sunbeam here is earliest cast + And by my side it lingers last— + I am the boy of the mountain! + + The mother-house of streams is here— + I drink them in their cradles clear; + From out the rock they foam below, + I spring to catch them as they go! + I am the boy of the mountain! + + To me belongs the mountain's bound, + Where gathering tempests march around; + But though from north and south they shout, + Above them still my song rings out— + "I am the boy of the mountain!" + + Below me clouds and thunders move; + I stand amid the blue above. + I shout to them with fearless breast: + "Go, leave my father's house in rest!" + I am the boy of the mountain! + + And when the loud bell shakes the spires + And flame aloft the signal-fires, + I go below and join the throng + And swing my sword and sing my song: + "I am the boy of the mountain!" +</pre> + <p> + Salzburg lies on both sides of the Salza, hemmed in on either hand by + precipitous mountains. A large fortress overlooks it on the south, from + the summit of a perpendicular rock, against which the houses in that part + of the city arc built. The streets are narrow and crooked, but the newer + part contains many open squares, adorned with handsome fountains. The + variety of costume among the people, is very interesting. The inhabitants + of the salt district have a peculiar dress; the women wear round fur caps, + with little wings of gauze at the side. I saw other women with headdresses + of gold or silver filagree, something in shape like a Roman helmet, with a + projection at the back of the head, a foot long. The most interesting + objects in Salzburg to us, were the house of Mozart, in which the composer + was born, and the monument lately erected to him. The St. Peter's Church, + near by, contains the tomb of Haydn, the great composer, and the Church of + St. Sebastian, that of the renowned Paracelsus, who was also a native of + Salzburg. + </p> + <p> + Two or three hours sufficed to see every thing of interest in the city. We + had intended lo go further through the Alps, to the beautiful vales of the + Tyrol, but our time was getting short, our boots, which are the + pedestrian's <i>sole</i> dependence, began to show symptoms of wearing + out, and our expenses among the lakes and mountains of Upper Austria, left + us but two florins apiece, so we reluctantly turned our backs upon the + snowy hills and set out for Munich, ninety miles distant. After passing + the night at Saalbruck, on the banks of the stream which separates the two + kingdoms, we entered Bavaria next morning. I could not help feeling glad + to leave Austria, although within her bounds I had passed scones whose + beauty will long haunt me, and met with many honest friendly hearts among + her people. We noticed a change as soon as we had crossed the border. The + roads were neater and handsomer, and the country people greeted us in + going by, with a friendly cheerfulness that made us feel half at home. The + houses are built in the picturesque Swiss fashion, their balconies often + ornamented with curious figures, carved in wood. Many of them, where they + are situated remote from a church, have a little bell on the roof which + they ring for morning and evening prayers; we often heard these simple + monitors sounding from the cottages as we passed by. + </p> + <p> + The next night we stopped at the little village of Stein, famous in former + times for its robber-knight, Hans von Stein. The ruins of his castle stand + on the rock above, and the caverns hewn in the sides of the precipice, + where he used to confine his prisoners, are still visible. Walking on + through a pleasant, well-cultivated country, we came to Wasserburg, on the + Inn. The situation of the city is peculiar. The Inn has gradually worn his + channel deeper in the sandy soil, so that he now flows at the bottom of a + glen, a hundred feet below the plains around. Wasserburg lies in a basin, + formed by the change of the current, which flows around it like a + horseshoe, leaving only a narrow neck of land which connects it with the + country above. + </p> + <p> + We left the little village where we were quartered for the night and took + a foot path which led across the country to the field of Hohenlinden, + about six miles distant. The name had been familiar to me from childhood, + and my love for Campbell, with the recollection of the school-exhibitions + where "On Linden when the sun was low" had been so often declaimed, + induced me to make the excursion to it. We traversed a large forest, + belonging to the King of Bavaria, and came out on a plain covered with + grain fields and bounded on the right by a semi-circle of low hills. Over + the fields, about two miles distant, a tall, minaret-like spire rose from + a small cluster of houses, and this was Hohenlinden! To tell the truth, I + had been expecting something more. The "hills of blood-stained snow" are + very small hills indeed, and the "Isar, rolling rapidly," is several miles + off; it was the spot, however, and we recited Campbell's poem, of course, + and brought away a few wild flowers as memorials. There is no monument or + any other token of the battle, and the people seem to endeavor to forget + the scene of Moreau's victory and their defeat. + </p> + <p> + From a hill twelve miles off we had our first view of the spires of + Munich, looking like distant ships over the sea-like plain. They kept in + sight till we arrived at eight o'clock in the evening, after a walk of + more than thirty miles. We crossed the rapid Isar on three bridges, + entered the magnificent Isar Gate, and were soon comfortably quartered in + the heart of Munich. + </p> + <p> + Entering the city without knowing a single soul within it, we made within + a few minutes an agreeable acquaintance. After we passed the Isar Gate, we + began looking for a decent inn, for the day's walk was very fatiguing. + Presently a young man, who had been watching us for some time, came up and + said, if we would allow him, he would conduct us to a good lodging-place. + Finding we were strangers, he expressed the greatest regret that he had + not time to go with us every day around the city. Our surprise and delight + at the splendor of Munich, he said, would more than repay him for the + trouble. In his anxiety to show us something, he took us some distance out + of the way, (although it was growing dark and we were very tired,) to see + the Palace and the Theatre, with its front of rich frescoes. + </p> + <h3> + END OF PART I. — + </h3> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + VIEWS A-FOOT; + </h1> + <h4> + OR + </h4> + <h2> + EUROPE SEEN WITH KNAPSACK AND STAFF. + </h2> + <h2> + By J. Bayard Taylor. + </h2> + <h2> + </h2> + <h3> + WITH A PREFACE BY N.P. WILLIS. + </h3> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Jog on, jog on, the foot-path way, + And merrily hent the stile-a; + A merry heart goes all the day, + Your sad tires in a mile-a." + + <i>Winter's Tale.</i> +</pre> + <h3> + IN TWO PARTS. + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="linkpart2" id="part2"></a> + </p> + <h1> + PART II. + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI. — MUNICH. + </h2> + <p> + <i>June 14.</i>—I thought I had seen every thing in Vienna that + could excite admiration or gratify fancy; here I have my former sensations + to live over again, in an augmented degree. It is well I was at first + somewhat prepared by our previous travel, otherwise the glare and splendor + of wealth and art in this German Athens might blind me to the beauties of + the cities we shall yet visit. I have been walking in a dream where the + fairy tales of boyhood were realized, and the golden and jeweled halls of + the Eastern genii rose glittering around me—"a vision of the brain + no more." All I had conceived of oriental magnificence, all descriptions + of the splendor of kingly halls and palaces, fall far short of what I here + see. Where shall I begin to describe the crowd of splendid edifices that + line its streets, or how give an idea of the profusion of paintings and + statues—of marble, jasper and gold? + </p> + <p> + Art has done every thing for Munich. It lies on a large, flat plain, + sixteen hundred feet above the sea, and continually exposed to the cold + winds from the Alps. At the beginning of the present century it was but a + third-rate city, and was rarely visited by foreigners. Since that time its + population and limits have been doubled, and magnificent edifices in every + style of architecture erected, rendering it scarcely secondary in this + respect to any capital in Europe. Every art that wealth or taste could + devise, seems to have been spent in its decoration. Broad, spacious + streets and squares have been laid out, churches, halls and colleges + erected, and schools of painting and sculpture established, which draw + artists from all parts of the world. All this was principally brought + about by the taste of the present king, Ludwig I., who began twenty or + thirty years ago, when he was Crown Prince, to collect the best German + artists around him and form plans for the execution of his grand design. + He can boast of having done more for the arts than any other living + monarch, and if he had accomplished it all without oppressing his people, + he would deserve an immortality of fame. + </p> + <p> + Now, if you have nothing else to do, let us take a stroll down the + Ludwigstrasse. As we pass the Theatiner Church, with its dome and towers, + the broad street opens before us, stretching away to the north, between + rows of magnificent buildings. Just at this southern end, is the <i>Schlusshalle</i>, + an open temple of white marble terminating the avenue. To the right of us + extend the arcades, with the trees of the Royal Garden peeping above them; + on the left is the spacious concert building of the Odeon, and the palace + of the Duke of Leuchtenberg, son of Eugene Beauharnois. Passing through a + row of palace-like private buildings, we come to the Army Department, on + the right—a neat and tasteful building of white sandstone. Beside it + stands the Library, which possesses the first special claim on our + admiration. With its splendid front of five hundred and eighteen feet, the + yellowish brown cement with which the body is covered, making an agreeable + contrast with the dark red window-arches and cornices, and the statues of + Homer, Hippocrates, Thucydides and Aristotle guarding the portal, is it + not a worthy receptacle for the treasures of ancient and modern lore which + its halls contain? + </p> + <p> + Nearly opposite stands the Institute for the Blind, a plain but large + building of dark red brick, covered with cement, and further, the Ludwig's + Kirche, or Church of St. Louis. How lightly the two square towers of gray + marble lift their network of sculpture! And what a novel and beautiful + effect is produced by uniting the Byzantine style of architecture to the + form of the Latin cross! Over the arched portal stand marble statues by + Schwanthaler, and the roof of brilliant tiles worked into mosaic, looks + like a rich Turkey carpet covering the whole. We must enter to get an idea + of the splendor of this church. Instead of the pointed arch which one + would expect to see meeting above his head, the lofty pillars on each side + bear an unbroken semicircular vault, which is painted a brilliant blue, + and spangled with silver stars. These pillars, and the little arches + above, which spring from them, are painted in an arabesque style with gold + and brilliant colors, and each side-chapel is a perfect casket of richness + and elegance. The windows are of silvered glass, through which the light + glimmers softly on the splendor within. The whole end of the church behind + the high altar, is taken up with Cornelius's celebrated fresco painting of + the "Last Judgment,"—the largest painting in the world—and the + circular dome in the centre of the cross contains groups of martyrs, + prophets, saints and kings, painted in fresco on a ground of gold. The + work of Cornelius has been greatly praised for sublimity of design and + beauty of execution, by many acknowledged judges; I was disappointed in + it, but the fault lay most probably in me and not in the painting. The + richness and elegance of the church took me all "aback;" it was so + entirely different from anything I had seen, that it was difficult to + decide whether I was most charmed by its novelty or its beauty. Still, as + a building designed to excite feelings of worship, it seems to me + inappropriate. A vast, dim Cathedral would be far preferable; the devout, + humble heart cannot feel at home amid such glare and brightness. + </p> + <p> + As we leave the church and walk further on, the street expands suddenly + into a broad square. One side is formed by the new University building and + the other by the Royal Seminary, both displaying in their architecture new + forms of the graceful Byzantine school, which the architects of Munich + have adapted in a striking manner to so many varied purposes. On each side + stands a splendid colossal fountain of bronze, throwing up a great mass of + water, which falls in a triple cataract to the marble basin below. A short + distance beyond this square the Ludwigstrasse terminates. It is said the + end will be closed by a magnificent gate, on a style to correspond with + the unequalled avenue to which it will give entrance. To one standing at + the southern end, it would form a proper termination to the grand vista. + Before we leave, turn around and glance back, down this street, which + extends for half a mile between such buildings as we have just viewed, and + tell me if it is not something of which a city and a king may boast, to + have created all this within less than twenty years! + </p> + <p> + We went one morning to see the collection of paintings formerly belonging + to Eugene Beauharnois, who was brother-in-law to the present king of + Bavaria, in the palace of his son, the Duke of Leuchtenberg. The first + hall contains works principally by French artists, among which are two by + Gerard—a beautiful portrait of Josephine, and the blind Belisarius + carrying his dead companion. The boy's head lies on the old man's + shoulder; but for the livid paleness of his limbs, he would seem to be + only asleep, while a deep and settled sorrow marks the venerable features + of the unfortunate Emperor. In the middle of the room are six pieces of + statuary, among which Canova's world-renowned group of the Graces at once + attracts the eye. There is also a kneeling Magdalen, lovely in her woe, by + the same sculptor, and a very touching work of Schadow, representing a + shepherd boy tenderly binding his sash around a lamb which he has + accidentally wounded with his arrow. + </p> + <p> + We have since seen in the St. Michael's Church, the monument to Eugene + Beauharnois, from the chisel of Thorwaldsen. The noble, manly figure of + the son of Josephine is represented in the Roman mantle, with his helmet + and sword lying on the ground by him. On one side sits History, writing on + a tablet; on the other, stand the two brother-angels, Death and + Immortality. They lean lovingly together, with arms around each other, but + the sweet countenance of Death has a cast of sorrow, as he stands with + inverted torch and a wreath of poppies among his clustering locks. + Immortality, crowned with never-fading flowers, looks upwards with a smile + of triumph, and holds in one hand his blazing torch. It is a beautiful + idea, and Thorwaldsen has made the marble eloquent with feeling. + </p> + <p> + The inside of the square formed by the Arcades and the New Residence, is + filled with noble old trees, which in summer make a leafy roof over the + pleasant walks. In the middle, stands a grotto, ornamented with rough + pebbles and shells, and only needing a fountain to make it a perfect hall + of Neptune. Passing through the northern Arcade, one comes into the + magnificent park, called the English Garden, which extends more than four + miles along the bank of the Isar, several branches of whose milky current + wander through it, and form one or two pretty cascades. It is a beautiful + alternation of forest and meadow, and has all the richness and garden-like + luxuriance of English scenery. Winding walks lead along the Isar, or + through the wood of venerable oaks, and sometimes a lawn of half a mile in + length, with a picturesque temple at its further end, comes in sight + through the trees. I was better pleased with this park than with the + Prater in Vienna. Its paths are always filled with persons enjoying the + change from the dusty streets to its quiet and cool retirement. + </p> + <p> + The New Residence is not only one of the wonders of Munich, but of the + world. Although commenced in 1826 and carried on constantly since that + time by a number of architects, sculptors and painters, it is not yet + finished; if art were not inexhaustible it would be difficult to imagine + what more could be added. The north side of the Max Joseph Platz is taken + up by its front of four hundred and thirty feet, which was nine years in + building, under the direction of the architect Klenze. The exterior is + copied after the Palazzo Pitti, in Florence. The building is of light + brown sandstone, and combines an elegance and even splendor, with the most + chaste and classic style. The northern front, which faces on the Royal + Garden, is now nearly finished. It has the enormous length of eight + hundred feet; in the middle is a portico of ten Ionic columns; instead of + supporting a triangular facade, each pillar stands separate and bears a + marble statue from the chisel of Schwanthaler. + </p> + <p> + The interior of the building does not disappoint the promise of the + outside. It is open every afternoon in the absence of the king, for the + inspection of visitors; fortunately for us, his majesty is at present on a + journey through his provinces on the Rhine. We went early to the waiting + hall, where several travelers were already assembled, and at four o'clock, + were admitted into the newer part of the palace, containing the throne + hall, ballroom, etc. On entering the first hall, designed for the lackeys + and royal servants, we were all obliged to thrust our feet into cloth + slippers to walk over the polished mosaic floor. The walls are of + scagliola marble and the ceilings ornamented brilliantly in fresco. The + second hall, also for servants, gives tokens of increasing splendor in the + richer decorations of the walls and the more elaborate mosaic of the + floor. We next entered the receiving saloon, in which the Court Marshal + receives the guests. The ceiling is of arabesque sculpture, profusely + painted and gilded. Passing through a little cabinet, we entered the great + dancing saloon. Its floor is the richest mosaic of wood of different + colors, the sides are of polished scagliola marble, and the ceiling a + dazzling mixture of sculpture, painting and gold. At one end is a gallery + for the orchestra, supported by six columns of variegated marble, above + which are six dancing nymphs, painted so beautifully that they appear like + living creatures. Every decoration which could be devised has been used to + heighten its splendor, and the artists appear to have made free use of the + Arabian Nights in forming the plan. + </p> + <p> + We entered next two smaller rooms containing the portraits of beautiful + women, principally from the German nobility. I gave the preference to the + daughter of Marco Bozzaris, now maid of honor to the Queen of Greece. She + had a wild dark eye, a beautiful proud lip, and her rich black hair rolled + in glossy waves down her neck from under the red Grecian cap stuck + jauntily on the side of her head. She wore a scarf and close-fitting vest + embroidered with gold, and there was a free, lofty spirit in her + countenance worthy the name she bore. These pictures form a gallery of + beauty, whose equal cannot easily be found. + </p> + <p> + Returning to the dancing hall, we entered the dining saloon, also called + the Hall of Charlemagne. Each wall has two magnificent fresco paintings of + very large size, representing some event in the life of the great emperor, + beginning with his anointing at St. Deny's as a boy of twelve years, and + ending with his coronation by Leo III. A second dining saloon, the Hall of + Barbarossa, adjoins the first. It has also eight frescoes as the former, + representing the principal events in the life of Frederic Barbarossa. Then + comes a <i>third</i>, called the Hapsburg Hall, with four grand paintings + from the life of Rudolph of Hapsburg, and a triumphal procession along the + frieze, showing the improvement in the arts and sciences which was + accomplished under his reign. The drawing, composition and rich tone of + coloring of these glorious frescoes, are scarcely excelled by any in + existence. + </p> + <p> + Finally we entered the Hall of the Throne. Here the encaustic decoration, + so plentifully employed in the other rooms, is dropped, and an effect even + more brilliant obtained by the united use of marble and gold. Picture a + long hall with a floor of polished marble, on each side twelve columns of + white marble with gilded capitals, between which stand colossal statues of + gold. At the other end is the throne of gold and crimson, with gorgeous + hangings of crimson velvet. The twelve statues in the hall are called the + "Wittlesbach Ancestors," and represent renowned members of the house of + Wittlesbach from which the present family of Bavaria is descended. They + were cast in bronze by Stiglmaier, after the models of Schwanthaler, and + then completely covered with a coating of gold, so that they resemble + solid golden statues. The value of the precious metal on each one is about + $3,000, as they arc nine feet in height! What would the politicians who + made such an outcry about the new papering of the President's House, say + to such a palace as this? + </p> + <p> + Going back to the starting point, we went to the other wing of the edifice + and joined the party who came to visit the apartments of the king. Here we + were led through two or three rooms, appropriated to the servants, with + all the splendor of marble doors, floors of mosaic, and frescoed ceilings. + From these we entered the king's dwelling. The entrance halls are + decorated with paintings of the Argonauts and illustrations of the Hymns + of Hesiod, after drawings by Schwanthaler. Then came the Service Hall, + containing frescoes illustrating Homer, by Schnorr, and the Throne Hall, + with Schwanthaler's bas-reliefs of the songs of Pindar, on a ground of + gold. The throne stands under a splendid crimson canopy. The Dining Room + with its floor of polished wood is filled with illustrations of the songs + of Anacreon. To these follow the Dressing Room, with twenty-seven + illustrations of the Comedies of Aristophanes, and the sleeping chamber + with frescoes after the poems of Theocritus, and two beautiful bas-reliefs + representing angels bearing children to Heaven. It is no wonder the King + writes poetry, when he breathes, eats, and even sleeps in an atmosphere of + it. + </p> + <p> + We were shown the rooms for the private parties of the Court, the + school-room, with scenes from the life of the Ancient Greeks, and then + conducted down the marble staircases to the lower story, which is to + contain Schnorr's magnificent frescoes of the Nibelungen Lied—the + old German Iliad. Two halls are at present finished; the first has the + figure of the author, Heinrich von Ofterdingen, and those of Chriemhilde, + Brunhilde, Siegfried and the other personages of the poem; and the second, + called the Marriage Hall, contains the marriage of Chriemhilde and + Siegfried, and the triumphal entry of Siegfried into Worms. + </p> + <p> + Adjoining the new residence on the east, is the Royal Chapel, lately + finished in the Byzantine style, under the direction of Klenze. To enter + it, is like stepping into a casket of jewels. The sides are formed by a + double range of arches, the windows being so far back as to be almost out + of sight, so that the eye falls on nothing but painting and gold. The + lower row of arches is of alternate green and purple marble, beautifully + polished; but the upper, as well as the small chancel behind the high + altar, is entirely covered with fresco paintings on a ground of gold! The + richness and splendor of the whole church is absolutely incredible. Even + after one has seen the Ludwig's Kirche and the Residence itself, it + excites astonishment. I was surprised, however, to find at this age, a + painting on the wall behind the altar, representing the Almighty. It seems + as if man's presumption has no end. The simple altar of Athens, with its + inscription "<i>to the Unknown God</i>," was more truly reverent than + this. As I sat down awhile under one of the arches, a poor woman came in, + carrying a heavy basket, and going to the steps which led up to the altar, + knelt down and prayed, spreading her arms out in the form of a cross. + Then, after stooping and kissing the first step, she dragged herself with + her knees upon it, and commenced praying again with outspread arms. This + she continued till she had climbed them all, which occupied some time; + then, as if she had fulfilled a vow she turned and departed. She was + undoubtedly sincere in her piety, but it made me sad to look upon such + deluded superstition. + </p> + <p> + We visited yesterday morning the Glyptothek, the finest collection of + ancient sculpture except that in the British Museum, I have yet seen, and + perhaps elsewhere unsurpassed, north of the Alps. The building which was + finished by Klenze, in 1830, has an Ionic portico of white marble, with a + group of allegorical figures, representing Sculpture and the kindred arts. + On each side of the portico, there are three niches in the front, + containing on one side, Pericles, Phidias and Vulcan; on the other, + Hadrian, Prometheus and Dædalus. The whole building forms a hollow square, + and is lighted entirely from the inner side. There are in all twelve + halls, each containing the remains of a particular era in the art, and + arranged according to time, so that, beginning with the clumsy productions + of the ancient Egyptians, one passes through the different stages of + Grecian art, afterwards that of Rome, and finally ends with the works of + our own times—the almost Grecian perfection of Thorwaldsen and + Canova. These halls are worthy to hold such treasures, and what more could + be said of them? The floors are of marble mosaic, the sides of green or + purple scagliola, and the vaulted ceilings covered with raised ornaments + on a ground of gold. No two are alike in color and decoration, and yet + there is a unity of taste and design in the whole, which renders the + variety delightful. + </p> + <p> + From the Egyptian Hall, we enter one containing the oldest remains of + Grecian sculpture, before the artists won power to <i>mould</i> the marble + to their conceptions. Then follow the celebrated Egina marbles, from the + temple of Jupiter Panhellenius, on the island of Egina. They formerly + stood in the two porticoes, the one group representing the fight for the + body of Laomedon, the other the struggle for the dead Patroclus. The parts + wanting have been admirably restored by Thorwaldsen. They form almost the + only existing specimens of the Eginetan school. Passing through the Apollo + Hall, we enter the large hall of Bacchus, in which the progress of the art + is distinctly apparent. A satyr, lying asleep on a goat-skin which he has + thrown over a rock, is believed to be the work of Praxiteles. The + relaxation of the figure and perfect repose of every limb, is wonderful. + The countenance has traits of individuality which led me to think it might + have been a portrait, perhaps of some rude country swain. + </p> + <p> + In the Hall of Niobe, which follows, is one of the most perfect works that + ever grew into life under a sculptor's chisel. Mutilated as it is, without + head and arms, I never saw a more expressive figure. Ilioneus, the son of + Niobe, is represented as kneeling, apparently in the moment in which + Apollo raises his arrow, and there is an imploring supplication in his + attitude which is touching in the highest degree. His beautiful young + limbs seem to shrink involuntarily from the deadly shaft; there is an + expression of prayer, almost of agony, in the position of his body. It + should be left untouched. No head could be added, which would equal that + one pictures to himself, while gazing upon it. + </p> + <p> + The Pinacothek is a magnificent building of yellow sandstone, five hundred + and thirty feet long, containing thirteen hundred pictures, selected with + great care from the whole private collection of the king, which amounts to + nine thousand. Above the cornice on the southern side, stand twenty-five + colossal statues of celebrated painters, by Schwanthaler. As we + approached, the tall bronze door was opened by a servant in the Bavarian + livery, whose size harmonized so well with the giant proportions of the + building, that, until I stood beside him and could mark the contrast, I + did not notice his enormous frame. I saw then that he must be near eight + feet high, and stout in proportion. He reminded me of the great "Baver of + Trient," in Vienna. The Pinacothek contains the most complete collection + of works by old German artists, anywhere to be found. There are in the + hall of the Spanish masters, half a dozen of Murillo's inimitable beggar + groups. It was a relief, after looking upon the distressingly stiff + figures of the old German school, to view these fresh, natural + countenances. One little black-eyed boy has just cut a slice out of a + melon and turns with a full mouth to his companion, who is busy eating a + bunch of grapes. The simple, contented expression on the faces of the + beggars is admirable. I thought I detected in a beautiful child, with dark + curly locks, the original of his celebrated Infant St. John. I was much + interested in two small juvenile works of Raphael and his own portrait. + The latter was taken most probably after he became known as a painter. The + calm, serious smile which we see on his portrait as a boy, had vanished, + and the thin features and sunken eye told of intense mental labor. + </p> + <p> + One of the most remarkable buildings now in the course of erection is the + Basilica, or Church of St. Bonifacius. It represents another form of the + Byzantine style, a kind of double edifice, a little like a North River + steamboat, with a two story cabin on deck. The inside is not yet finished, + although the artists have been at work on it for six years, but we heard + many accounts of its splendor, which is said to exceed anything that has + been yet done in Munich. We visited to-day the atelier of Sohwanthaler, + which is always open to strangers. The sculptor himself was not there, but + five or six of his scholars were at work in the rooms, building up clay + statues after his models and working out bas-reliefs in frames. We saw + here the original models of the statues on the Pinacothek, and the + "Wittelsbach Ancestors" in the Throne Hall of the palace. I was glad also + to find a miniature copy in plaster, of the Herrmannsschlacht, or combat + of the old German hero, Herrmann, with the Romans, from the frieze of the + Walhalla, at Ratisbon. It is one of Schwanthaler's best works. Herrmann, + as the middle figure, is represented in fight with the Roman general; + behind him the warriors are rushing on, and an old bard is striking the + chords of his harp to inspire them, while women bind up the wounds of the + fallen. The Roman soldiers on the other side are about turning in + confusion to fly. It is a lofty and appropriate subject for the portico of + a building containing the figures of the men who have labored for the + glory and elevation of their Fatherland. + </p> + <p> + Our new-found friend came to visit us last evening and learn our + impressions of Munich. In the course of conversation we surprised him by + revealing the name of our country. His countenance brightened up and he + asked us many questions about the state of society in America. In return, + he told us something more about himself—his story was simple, hut it + interested me. His father was a merchant, who, having been ruined by + unlucky transactions, died, leaving a numerous family without the means of + support. His children were obliged to commence life alone and unaided, + which, in a country where labor is so cheap, is difficult and + disheartening. Our friend chose the profession of a machinist, which, + after encountering great obstacles, he succeeded in learning, and now + supports himself as a common laborer. But his position in this respect + prevents him from occupying that station in society for which he is + intellectually fitted. His own words, uttered with a simple pathos which I + can never forget, will best describe how painful this must be to a + sensitive spirit. "I tell you thus frankly my feelings," said he, "because + I know you will understand me. I could not say this to any of my + associates, for they would not comprehend it, and they would say I am + proud, because I cannot bring my soul down to their level. I am poor and + have but little to subsist upon; but the spirit has needs as well as the + body, and I feel it a duty and a desire to satisfy them also. When I am + with any of my common fellow-laborers, what do I gain from them? Their + leisure hours are spent in drinking and idle amusement, and I cannot join + them, for I have no sympathy with such things. To mingle with those above + me, would be impossible. Therefore I am alone—I have no associate!" + </p> + <p> + I have gone into minute, and it may be, tiresome detail, in describing + some of the edifices of Munich, because it seemed the only way in which I + could give an idea of their wonderful beauty. It is true that in copying + after the manner of the daguerreotype, there is danger of imitating its <i>dullness</i> + also, but I trust to the glitter of gold and rich paintings, for a little + brightness in the picture. We leave to-morrow morning, having received the + sum written for, which, to our surprise, will be barely sufficient to + enable us to reach Heidelberg. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII. — THROUGH WURTEMBERG TO HEIDELBERG. + </h2> + <p> + We left Munich in the morning train for Augsburg. Between the two cities + extends a vast unbroken plain, exceedingly barren and monotonous. Here and + there is a little scrubby woodland, and sometimes we passed over a muddy + stream which came down from the Alps. The land is not more than + half-cultivated, and the villages are small and poor. We saw many of the + peasants at their stations, in their gay Sunday dresses; the women wore + short gowns with laced boddices, of gay colors, and little caps on the top + of their heads, with streamers of ribbons three feet long. After two + hours' ride, we saw the tall towers of Augsburg, and alighted on the + outside of the wall. The deep moat which surrounds the city, is all grown + over with velvet turf, the towers and bastions are empty and desolate, and + we passed unchallenged under the gloomy archway. Immediately on entering + the city, signs of its ancient splendor are apparent. The houses are old, + many of them with quaint, elaborately carved ornaments, and often covered + with fresco paintings. These generally represent some scene from the Bible + history, encircled with arabesque borders, and pious maxims in illuminated + scrolls. We went into the old <i>Rathhaus</i>, whose golden hall still + speaks of the days of Augsburg's pride. I saw in the basement a bronze + eagle, weighing sixteen tons, with an inscription on the pedestal stating + that it was cast in 1606, and formerly stood on the top of an old public + building, since torn down. In front of the Rathhaus is a fine bronze + fountain, with a number of figures of angels and tritons. + </p> + <p> + The same afternoon, we left Augsburg for Ulm. Long, low ranges of hills, + running from the Danube, stretched far across the country, and between + them lay many rich, green valleys. We passed, occasionally, large + villages, perhaps as old as the times of the crusaders, and looking quite + pastoral and romantic from the outside; but we were always glad when we + had gone through them and into the <i>clean</i> country again. The + afternoon of the second day we came in sight of the fertile plain of the + Danube; far, far to the right lay the field of Blenheim, where Marlborough + and the Prince Eugene conquered the united French and Bavarian forces and + decided the war of the Spanish succession. + </p> + <p> + We determined to reach Ulm the same evening, although a heavy storm was + raging along the distant hills of Wurtemberg. The dark mass of the mighty + Cathedral rose in the distance through the twilight, a perfect mountain in + comparison with the little houses clustered around its base. We reached + New Ulm, finally, and passed over the heavy wooden bridge into Wurtemberg, + unchallenged for passport or baggage. I thought I could feel a difference + in the atmosphere when I reached the other side—it breathed of the + freer spirit that ruled through the land. The Danube is here a little + muddy stream, hardly as large as my native Brandywine, and a traveler who + sees it at Ulm for the first time would most probably be disappointed. It + is not until below Vienna, where it receives the Drave and Save, that it + becomes a river of more than ordinary magnitude. + </p> + <p> + We entered Ulm, as I have already said. It was after nine o'clock, nearly + dark, and beginning to rain; we had walked thirty-three miles, and being + of course tired, we entered the first inn we saw. But, to our + consternation, it was impossible to get a place—the fair had just + commenced, and the inn was full to the roof. We must needs hunt another, + and then another, and yet another, with like fate at each. It grew quite + dark, the rain increased, and we were unacquainted with the city. I grew + desperate, and at last, when we had stopped at the <i>eighth</i> inn in + vain, I told the people we <i>must</i> have lodgings, for it was + impossible we should walk around in the rain all night. Some of the guests + interfering in our favor, the hostess finally sent a servant with us to + the first hotel in the city. I told him on the way we were Americans, + strangers in Ulm, and not accustomed to sleeping in the streets. "Well," + said he, "I will go before, and recommend you to the landlord of the + Golden Wheel." I knew not what magic he used, but in half an hour our + weary limbs were stretched in delightful repose and we thanked Heaven more + gratefully than ever before, for the blessing of a good bed. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we ran about through the booths of the fair, and gazed up + from all sides at the vast Cathedral. The style is the simplest and + grandest Gothic; but the tower, which, to harmonize, with the body of the + church, should be 520 feet high, was left unfinished at the height of 234 + feet. I could not enough admire the grandeur of proportion in the great + building. It seemed singular that the little race of animals who swarmed + around its base, should have the power to conceive or execute such a + gigantic work. + </p> + <p> + There is an immense fortification now in progress of erection behind Ulm. + It leans on the side of the hill which rises from the Danube, and must be + nearly a mile in length. Hundreds of laborers are at work, and from the + appearance of the foundations, many years will be required to finish it. + The lofty mountain-plain which we afterwards passed over, for eight or ten + miles, divides the waters of the Danube from the Rhine. From the heights + above Ulm, we bade adieu to the far, misty Alps, till we shall see them + again in Switzerland. Late in the afternoon, we came to a lovely green + valley, sunk as it were in the earth. Around us, on all sides, stretched + the bare, lofty plains; but the valley lay below, its steep sides covered + with the richest forest. At the bottom flowed the Fils. Our road led + directly down the side; the glen spread out broader as we advanced, and + smiling villages stood beside the stream. A short distance before reaching + Esslingen, we came upon the banks of the Neckar, whom we hailed as an old + acquaintance, although much smaller here in his mountain home than when he + sweeps the walls of Heidelberg. + </p> + <p> + Delightful Wurtemberg! Shall I ever forget thy lovely green vales, watered + by the classic current of the Neckar, or thy lofty hills covered with + vineyards and waving forests, and crowned with heavy ruins, that tell many + a tale of Barbarossa and Duke Ulric and Goetz with the Iron Hand! No—were + even the Suabian hills less beautiful—were the Suabian people less + faithful and kind and true, still I would love the land for the great + spirits it has produced; still would the birth-place of Frederick + Schiller, of Uhland and Hauff, be sacred. I do not wonder Wurtemberg can + boast such glorious poets. Its lovely landscapes seem to have been made + expressly for the cradle of genius; amid no other scenes could his infant + mind catch a more benign inspiration. Even the common people are deeply + imbued with a poetic feeling. We saw it in their friendly greetings and + open, expressive countenances; it is shown in their love for their + beautiful homes and the rapture and reverence with which they speak of + their country's bards. No river in the world, equal to the Neckar in size, + flows for its whole course through more delightful scenery, or among + kinder and happier people. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Esslingen, we followed its banks for some time, at the foot + of an amphitheatre of hills, covered to the very summit, as far as the eye + could reach, with vineyards. The morning was cloudy, and white + mist-wreaths hung along the sides. We took a road that led over the top of + a range, and on arriving at the summit, saw all at once the city of + Stuttgard, lying beneath our feet. It lay in a basin encircled by + mountains, with a narrow valley opening to the south-east, and running off + between the hills to the Neckar. The situation of the city is one of + wonderful beauty, and even after seeing Salzburg, I could not but be + charmed with it. + </p> + <p> + We descended the mountain and entered it. I inquired immediately for the + monument of Schiller, for there was little else in the city I cared to + see. We had become tired of running about cities, hunting this or that old + church or palace, which perhaps was nothing when found. Stuttgard has + neither galleries, ruins, nor splendid buildings, to interest the + traveler; but it has Thorwaldsen's statue of Schiller, calling up at the + same time its shame and its glory. For the poet in his youth was obliged + to fly from this very same city—from home and friends, to escape the + persecution of the government on account of the free sentiments expressed + in his early works. We found the statue, without much difficulty. It + stands in the Schloss Platz, at the southern end of the city, in an + unfavorable situation, surrounded by dark old buildings. It should rather + be placed aloft on a mountain summit, in the pure, free air of heaven, + braving the storm and the tempest. The figure is fourteen feet high and + stands on a pedestal of bronze, with bas reliefs on the four sides. The + head, crowned with a laurel wreath, is inclined as if in deep thought, and + all the earnest soul is seen in the countenance. Thorwaldsen has copied so + truly the expression of poetic reverie, that I waited, half-expecting he + would raise his head and look around him. + </p> + <p> + As we passed out the eastern gate, the workmen were busy near the city, + making an embankment for the new railroad to Heilbroun, and we were + obliged to wade through half a mile of mud. Finally the road turned to the + left over a mountain, and we walked on in the rain, regardless of the + touching entreaties of an omnibus-driver, who felt a great concern for our + health, especially as he had two empty seats. There is a peculiarly + agreeable sensation in walking in a storm, when the winds sweep by and the + rain-drops rattle through the trees, and the dark clouds roll past just + above one's head. It gives a dash of sublimity to the most common scene. + If the rain did not finally soak through the boots, and if one did not + lose every romantic feeling in wet garments, I would prefer storm to + sunshine, for visiting some kinds of scenery. You remember, we saw the + North Coast of Ireland and the Giant's Causeway in stormy weather, at the + expense of being completely drenched, it is true; but our recollections of + that wild day's journey are as vivid as any event of our lives—and + the name of the Giant's Causeway calls up a series of pictures as terribly + sublime as any we would wish to behold. + </p> + <p> + The rain at last did come down a little too hard for comfort, and we were + quite willing to take shelter when we reached Ludwigsburg. This is here + called a new city, having been laid out with broad streets and spacious + squares, about a century ago, and is now about the size of our five-year + old city of Milwaukie! It is the chief military station of Wurtemberg, and + has a splendid castle and gardens, belonging to the king. A few miles to + the eastward is the little village where Schiller was born. It is said the + house where his parents lived is still standing. + </p> + <p> + It was not the weather <i>alone</i>, which prevented our making a + pilgrimage to it, nor was it <i>alone</i> a peculiar fondness for rain + which induced us to persist in walking in the storm. Our feeble pockets, + if they could have raised an audible jingle, would have told another tale. + Our scanty allowance was dwindling rapidly away, in spite of a desperate + system of economy. We left Ulm with a florin and a half apiece—about + sixty cents—to walk to Heidelberg, a distance of 110 miles. It was + the evening of the third day, and this was almost exhausted. As soon + therefore as the rain slackened a little, we started again, although the + roads were very bad. At Betigheim, where we passed the night, the people + told us of a much nearer and more beautiful road, passing through the + Zabergau, a region fumed for its fertility and pastoral beauty. At the inn + we were charged higher than usual for a bed, so that we had but thirteen + kreutzers to start with in the morning. Our fare that day was a little + bread and water; we walked steadily on, but owing to the wet roads, made + only thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + A more delightful region than the Zabergau I have seldom passed through. + The fields were full of rich, heavy grain, and the trees had a luxuriance + of foliage that reminded me of the vale of the Jed, in Scotland. Without a + single hedge or fence, stood the long sweep of hills, covered with waving + fields of grain, except where they were steep and rocky, and the vineyard + terraces rose one above another. Sometimes a fine old forest grew along + the summit, like a mane waving back from the curved neck of a steed, and + white villages lay coiled in the valleys between. A line of blue mountains + always closed the vista, on looking down one of these long valleys; + occasionally a ruined castle with donjon tower, was seen on a mountain at + the side, making the picture complete. As we lay sometimes on the hillside + and looked on one of those sweet vales, we were astonished at its Arcadian + beauty. The meadows were as smooth as a mirror, and there seemed to be + scarcely a grass-blade out of place. The streams wound through ("<i>snaked</i> + themselves through," is the German expression,) with a subdued ripple, as + if they feared to displace a pebble, and the great ash trees which stood + here and there, had lined each of their leaves as carefully with silver + and turned them as gracefully to the wind, us if they were making their + toilettes for the gala-day of nature. + </p> + <p> + That evening brought us into the dominions of Baden, within five hours' + walk of Heidelberg. At the humblest inn in an humble village, we found a + bed which we could barely pay for, leaving a kreutzer or two for + breakfast. Soon after starting the next morning, the distant Kaiserstuhl + suddenly emerged from the mist, with the high tower on its summit, where + nearly ten months before, we sat and looked at the summits of the Vosges + in France, with all the excitement one feels on entering a foreign land. + <i>Now</i>, the scenery around that same Kaiserstuhl was nearly as + familiar to us as that of our own homes. Entering the hills again, we knew + by the blue mountains of the Odenwald, that we were approaching the + Neckar. At length we reached the last height. The town of Neckargemünd lay + before us on the steep hillside, and the mountains on either side were + scarred with quarries of the rich red sandstone, so much used in building. + The blocks are hewn out, high up on the mountain side, and then sent + rolling and sliding down to the river, where they are laden in boats and + floated down with the current to the distant cities of the Rhine. + </p> + <p> + We were rejoiced on turning around the corner of a mountain, to see on the + opposite side of the river, the road winding up through the forests, where + last fall our Heidelberg friends accompanied us, as we set out to walk to + Frankfort, through the Odenwald. Many causes combined to render it a glad + scene to us. We were going to meet our comrade again, after a separation + of months; we were bringing an eventful journey to its close; and finally, + we were weak and worn out from fasting and the labor of walking in the + rain. A little further we saw Kloster Neuburg, formerly an old convent, + and remembered how we used to look at it every day from the windows of our + room on the Neckar; but we shouted aloud, when we saw at last the + well-known bridge spanning the river, and the glorious old castle lifting + its shattered towers from the side of the mountain above us. I always felt + a strong attachment to this matchless ruin, and as I beheld it again, with + the warm sunshine falling through each broken arch, the wild ivy draping + its desolate chambers, it seemed to smile on me like the face of a friend, + and I confessed I had seen many a grander scene, but few that would cling + to the memory so familiarly. + </p> + <p> + While we were in Heidelberg, a student was buried by torch-light. This is + done when particular honor is shown to the memory of the departed brother. + They assembled at dark in the University Square, each with a blazing pine + torch three feet long, and formed into a double line. Between the files + walked at short distances an officer, who, with his sword, broad lace + collar, and the black and white plumes in his cap, looked like a cavalier + of the olden time. Persons with torches walked on each side of the hearse, + and the band played a lament so deeply mournful, that the scene, + notwithstanding its singularity, was very sad and touching. The thick + smoke from the torches filled the air, and a lurid, red light was cast + over the hushed crowds in the streets and streamed into the dark alleys. + The Hauptstrasse was filled with two lines of flame, as the procession + passed down it; when they reached the extremity of the city, the hearse + went on, attended with torch-bearers, to the Cemetery, some distance + further, and the students turned back, running and whirling their torches + in mingled confusion. The music struck up a merry march, and in the smoke + and red glare, they looked like a company of mad demons. The presence of + death awed them to silence for awhile, but as soon as it had left them, + they turned relieved to revel again and thought no more of the lesson. It + gave me a painful feeling to see them rushing so wildly and disorderly + back. They assembled again in the square, and tossing their torches up + into the air cast them blazing into a pile; while the flame and black + smoke rose in a column into the air, they sang in solemn chorus, the song + "<i>Gaudeamus igitur</i>," with which they close all public assemblies. + </p> + <p> + I shall neglect telling how we left Heidelberg, and walked along the + Bergstrasse again, for the sixth time; how we passed the old Melibochus + and through the quiet city of Darmstadt; how we watched the blue summits + of the Taunus rising higher and higher over the plain, as a new land rises + from the sea, and finally, how we reached at last the old watch-tower and + looked down on the valley of the Main, clothed in the bloom and verdure of + summer, with the houses and spires of Frankfort in the middle of the + well-known panorama. We again took possession of our old rooms, and having + to wait for a remittance from America, as well as a more suitable season + for visiting Italy, we sat down to a month's rest and study. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII. — FREIBURG AND THE BLACK FOREST. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Frankfort, July 29, 1845.</i>—It would be ingratitude towards the + old city in which I have passed so many pleasant and profitable hours, to + leave it, perhaps forever, without a few words of farewell. How often will + the old bridge, with its view up the Main, over the houses of Oberrad to + the far mountains of the Odenwald, rise freshly and distinctly in memory, + when I shall have been long absent from them! How often will I hear in + fancy as I now do in reality, the heavy tread of passers-by on the rough + pavement below, and the deep bell of the Cathedral, chiming the swift + hours, with a hollow tone that seems to warn me, rightly to employ them! + Even this old room, with its bare walls, little table and chairs, which I + have thought and studied in so long, that it seems difficult to think and + study anywhere else, will crowd out of memory images of many a loftier + scene. May I but preserve for the future the hope and trust which have + cheered and sustained me here, through the sorrow of absence and the + anxiety of uncertain toil! It is growing towards midnight and I think of + many a night when I sat here at this hour, answering the spirit-greeting + which friends sent me at sunset over the sea. All this has now an end. I + must begin a new wandering, and perhaps in ten days more I shall have a + better place for thought, among the mountain-chambers of the everlasting + Alps. I look forward to the journey with romantic, enthusiastic + anticipation, for afar in the silvery distance, stand the Coliseum and St. + Peter's, Vesuvius and the lovely Naples. Farewell, friends who have so + long given us a home! + </p> + <p> + <i>Aug. 9.</i>—The airy, basket-work tower of the Freiburg Minster + rises before me over the black roofs of the houses, and behind stand the + gloomy, pine-covered mountains of the Black Forest. Of our walk to + Heidelberg over the oft-trodden Bergstrasse, I shall say nothing, nor how + we climbed the Kaiserstuhl again, and danced around on the top of the + tower for one hour, amid cloud and mist, while there was sunshine below in + the valley of the Neckar. I left Heidelberg yesterday morning in the <i>stehwagen</i> + for Carlsruhe. The engine whistled, the train started, and although I kept + my eyes steadily fixed on the spire of the Hauptkirche, three minutes hid + it, and all the rest of the city from sight. Carlsruhe, the capital of + Baden, which we reached in an hour and a half, is unanimously pronounced + by travelers to be a most dull and tiresome city. From a glance I had + through one of the gates, I should think its reputation was not + undeserved. Even its name, in German, signifies a place of repose. + </p> + <p> + I stopped at Kork, on the branch road leading to Strasbourg, to meet a + German-American about to return to my home in Pennsylvania, where he had + lived for some time. I inquired according to the direction he had sent me + to Frankfort, but he was not there; however, an old man, finding who I + was, said Herr Otto had directed him to go with me to Hesselhurst, a + village four or five miles off, where he would meet me. So we set off + immediately over the plain, and reached the village at dusk. + </p> + <p> + At the little inn, were several of the farmers of the neighborhood, who + seemed to consider it as something extraordinary to see a real, live, + native-born American. They overwhelmed me with questions about the state + of our country, its government, etc. The hostess brought me a supper of + fried eggs and <i>wurst</i>, while they gathered around the table and + began a real category in the dialect of the country, which is difficult to + understand. I gave them the best information I could about our mode of + farming, the different kinds of produce raised, and the prices paid to + laborers; one honest old man cried out, on my saying I had worked on a + farm, "Ah! little brother, give me your hand!" which he shook most + heartily. I told them also something about our government, and the militia + system, so different from the conscription of Europe, when a farmer + becoming quite warm in our favor, said to the others with an air of the + greatest decision: "One American is better than twenty Germans!" What + particularly amused me, was, that although I spoke German with them, they + seemed to think I did not understand what they said among one another, and + therefore commented very freely over my appearance. I suppose they had the + idea that we were a rude, savage race, for I overheard one say: "One sees, + nevertheless, that he has been educated!" Their honest, unsophisticated + mode of expression was very interesting to me, and we talked together till + a late hour. + </p> + <p> + My friend arrived at three o'clock the next morning, and after two or + three hours' talk about <i>home</i>, and the friends whom he expected to + see so much sooner than I, a young farmer drove me in his wagon to + Offenburg, a small city at the foot of the Black Forest, where I took the + cars for Freiburg. The scenery between the two places is grand. The broad + mountains of the Black Forest rear their fronts on the east, and the blue + lines of the French Vosges meet the clouds on the west. The night before, + in walking over the plain, I saw distinctly the whole of the Strasbourg + Minster, whose spire is the highest in Europe, being four hundred and + ninety feet, or but twenty-five feet lower than the Pyramid of Cheops. + </p> + <p> + I visited the Minster of Freiburg yesterday morning. It is a grand, gloomy + old pile, dating from the eleventh century—one of the few Gothic + churches in Germany that have ever been completed. The tower of beautiful + fretwork, rises to the height of three hundred and ninety-five feet, and + the body of the church including the choir, is of the same length. The + interior is solemn and majestic. Windows stained in colors that burn, let + in a "dim, religious light" which accords very well with the dark old + pillars and antique shrines. In two of the chapels there are some fine + altar-pieces by Holbein and one of his scholars; and a very large crucifix + of silver and ebony, which is kept with great care, is said to have been + carried with the Crusaders to the Holy Land. This morning was the great + market-day, and the peasantry of the Black Forest came down from the + mountains to dispose of their produce. The square around the Minster was + filled with them, and the singular costume of the women gave the scene + quite a strange appearance. Many of them wore bright red head-dresses and + shawls, others had high-crowned hats of yellow oil-cloth; the young girls + wore their hair in long plaits, reaching nearly to their feet. They + brought grain, butter and cheese and a great deal of fine fruit to sell—I + bought some of the wild, aromatic plums of the country, at the rate of + thirty for a cent. + </p> + <p> + The railroad has only been open to Freiburg within a few days, and is + consequently an object of great curiosity to the peasants, many of whom + never saw the like before. They throng around the station at the departure + of the train and watch with great interest the operations of getting up + the steam and starting. One of the scenes that grated most harshly on my + feelings, was seeing yesterday a company of women employed on the + unfinished part of the road. They were digging and shoveling away in the + rain, nearly up to their knees in mud and clay! + </p> + <p> + I called at the Institute for the Blind, under the direction of Mr. + Müller. He showed me some beautiful basket and woven work by his pupils; + the accuracy and skill with which everything was made astonished me. They + read with amazing facility from the raised type, and by means of frames + are taught to write with ease and distinctness. In music, that great + solace of the blind, they most excelled. They sang with an expression so + true and touching, that it was a delight to listen. The system of + instruction adopted appears to be most excellent, and gives to the blind + nearly every advantage which their more fortunate brethren enjoy. + </p> + <p> + I am indebted to Mr. Müller, to whom I was introduced by an acquaintance + with his friend, Dr. Rivinus, of West Chester, Pa., for many kind + attentions. He went with us this afternoon to the Jägerhaus, on a mountain + near, where we had a very fine view of the city and its great black + Minster, with the plain of the Briesgau, broken only by the Kaiserstuhl, a + long mountain near the Rhine, whose golden stream glittered in the + distance. On climbing the Schlossberg, an eminence near the city, we met + the Grand Duchess Stephanie, a natural daughter of Napoleon, as I have + heard, and now generally believed to be the mother of Caspar Hauser. + Through a work lately published, which has since been suppressed, the + whole history has come to light. Caspar Hauser was the lineal descendant + of the house of Baden, and heir to the throne. The guilt of his + imprisonment and murder rests, therefore, upon the present reigning + family. + </p> + <p> + A chapel on the Schönberg, the mountain opposite, was pointed out as the + spot where Louis XV., if I mistake not, usually stood while his army + besieged Freiburg. A German officer having sent a ball to this chapel + which struck the wall just above the king's head, the latter sent word + that if they did not cease firing he would point his cannons at the + Minster. The citizens thought it best to spare the monarch and save the + cathedral. + </p> + <p> + We attended a meeting of the <i>Walhalla</i>, or society of the students + who visit the Freiburg University. They pleased me better than the + enthusiastic but somewhat unrestrained Burschenschaft of Heidelberg. Here, + they have abolished duelling; the greatest friendship prevails among the + students, and they have not that contempt for every thing <i>philister</i>, + or unconnected with their studies, which prevails in other universities. + Many respectable citizens attend their meetings; to-night there was a + member of the Chamber of Deputies at Carlsruhe present, who delivered two + speeches, in which every third word was "freedom!" An address was + delivered also by a merchant of the city, in which he made a play upon the + word <i>spear</i>, which signifies also in a cant sense, <i>citizen</i>, + find seemed to indicate that both would do their work in the good cause. + He was loudly applauded. Their song of union was by Charles Follen, and + the students were much pleased when I told them how he was honored and + esteemed in America. + </p> + <p> + After two days, delightfully spent, we shouldered our knapsacks and left + Freiburg. The beautiful valley, at the mouth of which the city lies, runs + like an avenue for seven miles directly into the mountains, and presents + in its loveliness such a contrast to the horrid defile which follows, that + it almost deserves the name which has been given to a little inn at its + head—the "Kingdom of Heaven." The mountains of the Black Forest + enclose it on each side like walls, covered to the summit with luxuriant + woods, and in some places with those forests of gloomy pine which give + this region its name. After traversing its whole length, just before + plunging into the mountain-depths, the traveler rarely meets with a finer + picture than that which, on looking back, he sees framed between the hills + at the other end. Freiburg looks around the foot of one of the heights, + with the spire of her cathedral peeping above the top, while the French + Vosges grew dim in the far perspective. + </p> + <p> + The road now enters a wild, narrow valley, which grows smaller as we + proceed. From Himmelreich, a large rude inn by the side of the green + meadows, we enter the Höllenthal—that is, from the "Kingdom of + Heaven" to the "Valley of Hell!" The latter place better deserves its + appellation than the former. The road winds between precipices of black + rock, above which the thick foliage shuts out the brightness of day and + gives a sombre hue to the scene. A torrent foams down the chasm, and in + one place two mighty pillars interpose to prevent all passage. The stream, + however, has worn its way through, and the road is hewn in the rock by its + side. This cleft is the only entrance to a valley three or four miles + long, which lies in the very heart of the mountains. It is inhabited by a + few woodmen and their families, and but for the road which passes through, + would be as perfect a solitude as the Happy Valley of Rasselas. At the + farther end, a winding road called "The Ascent," leads up the steep + mountain to an elevated region of country, thinly settled and covered with + herds of cattle. The cherries which, in the Rhine-plain below, had long + gone, were just ripe here. The people spoke a most barbarous dialect; they + were social and friendly, for everybody greeted us, and sometimes, as we + sat on a bank by the roadside, those who passed by would say "Rest thee!" + or "Thrice rest!" + </p> + <p> + Passing by the Titi Lake, a small body of water which was spread out among + the hills like a sheet of ink, so deep was its Stygian hue, we commenced + ascending a mountain. The highest peak of the Schwarzwald, the Feldberg, + rose not far off, and on arriving at the top of this mountain, we saw that + a half hour's walk would bring us to its summit. This was too great a + temptation for my love of climbing heights; so with a look at the + descending sun to calculate how much time we could spare, we set out. + There was no path, but we pressed directly up the steep side, through + bushes and long grass, and in a short time reached the top, breathless + from such exertion in the thin atmosphere. The pine woods shut out the + view to the north and east, which is said to be magnificent, as the + mountain is about five thousand feet high. The wild, black peaks of the + Black Forest were spread below us, and the sun sank through golden mist + towards the Alsatian hills. Afar to the south, through cloud and storm, we + could just trace the white outline of the Swiss Alps. The wind swept + through the pines around, and bent the long yellow grass among which we + sat, with a strange, mournful sound, well suiting the gloomy and + mysterious region. It soon grew cold, the golden clouds settled down + towards us, and we made haste to descend to the village of Lenzkirch + before dark. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we set out early, without waiting to see the trial of archery + which was to take place among the mountain youths. Their booths and + targets, gay with banners, stood on a green meadow beside the town. We + walked through the Black Forest the whole forenoon. It might be owing to + the many wild stories whose scenes are laid among these hills, but with me + there was a peculiar feeling of solemnity pervading the whole region. The + great pine woods are of the very darkest hue of green, and down their + hoary, moss-floored aisles, daylight seems never to have shone. The air + was pure and clear, and the sunshine bright, but it imparted no gaiety to + the scenery: except the little meadows of living emerald which lay + occasionally in the lap of a dell, the landscape wore a solemn and serious + air. In a storm, it must be sublime. + </p> + <p> + About noon, from the top of the last range of hills, we had a glorious + view. The line of the distant Alps could be faintly traced high in the + clouds, and all the heights between were plainly visible, from the Lake of + Constance to the misty Jura, which flanked the Vosges of the west. From + our lofty station we overlooked half Switzerland, and had the air been a + little clearer, we could have seen Mont Blanc and the mountains of Savoy. + I could not help envying the feelings of the Swiss, who, after long + absence from their native land, first see the Alps from this road. If to + the emotions with which I then looked on them were added the passionate + love of home and country which a long absence creates, such excess of + rapture would be almost too great to be borne. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we crossed the border, and took leave of Germany with + regret, after near a year's residence within its bounds. Still it was + pleasant to know we were in a republic once more: the first step we took + made us aware of the change. There was no policeman to call for our + passports or search our baggage. It was just dark when we reached the hill + overlooking the Rhine, on whose steep banks is perched the antique town of + Schaffhausen. It is still walled in, with towers at regular intervals; the + streets are wide and spacious, and the houses rendered extremely + picturesque by the quaint projecting windows. The buildings are nearly all + old, as we learned by the dates above the doors. At the inn, I met with + one of the free troopers who marched against Luzerne. He was full of + spirit, and ready to undertake another such journey. Indeed it is the + universal opinion that the present condition of things cannot last much + longer. + </p> + <p> + We took a walk before breakfast to the Falls of the Rhine, about a mile + and a half from Schaffhausen. I confess I was somewhat disappointed in + them, after the glowing descriptions of travelers. The river at this place + is little more than thirty yards wide, and the body of water, although + issuing from the Lake of Constance, is not remarkably strong. For some + distance above, the fall of the water is very rapid, and as it finally + reaches the spot where, narrowed between rocks, it makes the grand plunge, + it has acquired a great velocity. Three rocks stand in the middle of the + current, which thunders against and around their bases, but cannot shake + them down. These and the rocks in the bed of the stream, break the force + of the fall, so that it descends to the bottom, about fifty feet below, + not in one sheet, but shivered into a hundred leaps of snowy foam. The + precipitous shores, and the tasteful little castle which is perched upon + the steep just over the boiling spray, add much to its beauty, taken as a + picture. As a specimen of the picturesque, the whole scene is perfect. I + should think Trenton Falls, in New York, must excel these in wild, + startling effect; but there is such a scarcity of waterfalls in this land, + that the Germans go into raptures about them, and will hardly believe that + Niagara itself possesses more sublimity. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIX. — PEOPLE AND PLACES IN EASTERN SWITZERLAND. + </h2> + <p> + We left Schaffhausen for Zurich, in mist and rain, and walked for some + time along the north bank of the Rhine. We could have enjoyed the scenery + much better, had it not been for the rain, which not only hid the + mountains from sight, but kept us constantly half soaked. We crossed the + rapid Rhine at Eglisau, a curious antique village, and then continued our + way through the forests of Canton Zurich, to Bülach, with its groves of + lindens—"those tall and stately trees, with velvet down upon their + shining leaves, and rustic benches placed beneath their overhanging + eaves." + </p> + <p> + When we left the little village where the rain obliged us to stop for the + night, it was clear and delightful. The farmers were out, busy at work, + their long, straight scythes glancing through the wet grass, while the + thick pines sparkled with thousands of dewy diamonds. The country was so + beautiful and cheerful, that we half felt like being in America. The + farm-houses were scattered over the country in real American style, and + the glorious valley of the Limmat, bordered on the west by a range of + woody hills, reminded me of some scenes in my native Pennsylvania. The + houses were neatly and tastefully built, with little gardens around them—and + the countenances of the people spoke of intelligence and independence. + There was the same air of peace and prosperity which delighted us in the + valleys of Upper Austria, with a look of freedom which those had not. The + faces of a people are the best index to their condition. I could read on + their brows a lofty self-respect, a consciousness of the liberties they + enjoy, which the Germans of the laboring class never show. It could not be + imagination, for the recent occurrences in Switzerland, with the many + statements I heard in Germany, had prejudiced me somewhat against the + land; and these marks of prosperity and freedom were as surprising as they + were delightful. + </p> + <p> + As we approached Zurich, the noise of employment from mills, furnaces and + factories, came to us like familiar sounds, reminding us of the bustle of + our home cities. The situation of the city is lovely. It lies at the head + of the lake, and on both sides of the little river Limmat, whose clear + green waters carry the collected meltings of the Alps to the Rhine. Around + the lake rise lofty green hills, which, sloping gently back, bear on their + sides hundreds of pleasant country-houses and farms, and the snowy Alpine + range extends along the southern sky. The Limmat is spanned by a number of + bridges, and its swift waters turn many mills which are built above them. + From these bridges one can look out over the blue lake and down the + thronged streets of the city on each side, whose bright, cheerful houses + remind him of Italy. + </p> + <p> + Zurich can boast of finer promenades than any other city in Switzerland. + The old battlements are planted with trees and transformed into pleasant + walks, which being elevated above the city, command views of its beautiful + environs. A favorite place of resort is the Lindenhof, an elevated + court-yard, shaded by immense trees. The fountains of water under them are + always surrounded by washerwomen, and in the morning groups of merry + school children may be seen tumbling over the grass. The teachers take + them there in a body for exercise and recreation. The Swiss children are + beautiful, bright-eyed creatures; there is scarcely one who does not + exhibit the dawning of an active, energetic spirit. It may be partly + attributed to the fresh, healthy climate of Switzerland, but I am partial + enough to republics to believe that the influence of the Government under + which they live, has also its share in producing the effect. + </p> + <p> + There is a handsome promenade on an elevated bastion which overlooks the + city and lakes. While enjoying the cool morning breeze and listening to + the stir of the streets below us, we were also made aware of the social + and friendly politeness of the people. Those who passed by, on their walk + around the rampart, greeted us, almost with the familiarity of an + acquaintance. Simple as was the act, we felt grateful, for it had at least + the seeming of a friendly interest and a sympathy with the loneliness + which the stranger sometimes feels. A school-teacher leading her troop of + merry children on their morning walk around the bastion, nodded to us + pleasantly and forthwith the whole company of chubby-cheeked rogues, + looking up at us with a pleasant archness, lisped a "<i>guten morgen</i>" + that made the hearts glad within us. I know of nothing that has given me a + more sweet and tender delight than the greeting of a little child, who, + leaving his noisy playmates, ran across the street to me, and taking my + hand, which he could barely clasp in both his soft little ones, looked up + in my face with an expression so winning and affectionate, that I loved + him at once. The happy, honest farmers, too, spoke to us cheerfully + everywhere. We learned a lesson from all this—we felt that not a + word of kindness is ever wasted, that a simple friendly glance may cheer + the spirit and warm the lonely heart, and that the slightest deed, + prompted by generous sympathy, becomes a living joy in the memory of the + receiver, which blesses unceasingly him who bestowed it. + </p> + <p> + We left Zurich the same afternoon, to walk to Stafa, where we were told + the poet Freiligrath resided. The road led along the bank of the lake, + whose shores sloped gently up from the water, covered with gardens and + farm-houses, which, with the bolder mountains that rose behind them, made + a combination of the lovely and grand, on which the eye rested with + rapture and delight. The sweetest cottages were embowered among the + orchards, and the whole country bloomed like a garden. The waters of the + lake are of a pale, transparent green, and so clear that we could see its + bottom of white pebbles, for some distance. Here and there floated a quiet + boat on its surface. The opposite hills were covered with a soft blue + haze, and white villages sat along the shore, "like swans among the + reeds." Behind, we saw the woody range of the Brunig Alp. The people bade + us a pleasant good evening; there was a universal air of cheerfulness and + content on their countenances. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening, the clouds which hung in the south the whole day, + dispersed a little and we could see the Dodiberg and the Alps of Glarus. + As sunset drew on, the broad summits of snow and the clouds which were + rolled around them, assumed a soft rosy hue, which increased in brilliancy + as the light of day faded. The rough, icy crags and snowy steeps were + fused in the warm light and half blended with the bright clouds. This + blaze, as it were, of the mountains at sunset, is called the <i>Alp-glow</i>, + and exceeds all one's highest conceptions of Alpine grandeur. We watched + the fading glory till it quite died away, and the summits wore a livid, + ashy hue, like the mountains of a world wherein there was no life. In a + few minutes more the dusk of twilight spread over the scene, the boatmen + glided home over the still lake and the herdsmen drove their cattle back + from pasture on the slopes and meadows. + </p> + <p> + On inquiring for Freiligrath at Stafa, we found he had removed to + Rapperschwyl, some distance further. As it was already late, we waited for + the steamboat which leaves Zurich every evening. It came along about eight + o'clock, and a little boat carried us out through rain and darkness to + meet it, as it came like a fiery-eyed monster over the water. We stepped + on board the "Republican," and in half an hour were brought to the wharf + at Rapperschwyl. + </p> + <p> + There are two small islands in the lake, one of which, with a little + chapel rising from among its green trees, is Ufnau, the grave of Ulrich + von Hutten, one of the fathers of the German Reformation. His fiery poems + have been the source from which many a German bard has derived his + inspiration, and Freiligrath who now lives in sight of his tomb, has + published an indignant poem, because an inn with gaming tables has been + established in the ruins of the castle near Creuznach, where Hutten found + refuge from his enemies with Franz von Sickingen, brother-in-law of "Goetz + with the iron Hand." The monks of Einsiedeln, to whom Ufnau belongs, have + carefully obliterated all traces of his grave, so that the exact spot is + not known, in order that even a tombstone might be denied him who once + strove to overturn their order. It matters little to that bold spirit + whose motto was: "<i>The die is cast—I have dared it!</i>"—the + whole island is his monument, if he need one. + </p> + <p> + I spent the whole of the morning with Freiligrath, the poet, who was + lately banished from Germany on account of the liberal principles his last + volume contains. He lives in a pleasant country-house on the Meyerberg, an + eminence near Rapperschwyl, overlooking a glorious prospect. On leaving + Frankfort, R.S. Willis gave me a letter to him, and I was glad to meet + with a man personally whom I admired so much through his writings, and + whose boldness in speaking out against the tyranny which his country + suffers, forms such a noble contrast to the cautious slowness of his + countrymen. He received me kindly and conversed much upon American + literature. He is a warm admirer of Bryant and Longfellow, and has + translated many of their poems into German. He said he had received a warm + invitation from a colony of Germans in Wisconsin, to join them and enjoy + that freedom which his native land denies, but that his circumstances + would not allow it at present. He is perhaps thirty-five years of age. His + brow is high and noble, and his eyes, which are large and of a clear gray, + beam with serious, saddened thought. His long chesnut hair, uniting with a + handsome beard and moustache, gives a lion-like dignity to his energetic + countenance. His talented wife, Ida Freiligrath, who shares his literary + labors, and an amiable sister, are with him in exile, and he is happier in + their faithfulness than when he enjoyed the favors of a corrupt king. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the long bridge from Rapperschwyl, and took the road over the + mountain opposite, ascending for nearly two hours along the side, with + glorious views of the Lake of Zurich and the mountains which enclose it. + The upper and lower ends of the lake were completely hid by the storms, + which, to our regret, veiled the Alps, but the part below lay spread out + dim and grand, like a vast picture. It rained almost constantly, and we + were obliged occasionally to take shelter in the pine forests, whenever a + heavier cloud passed over. The road was lined with beggars, who dropped on + their knees in the rain before us, or placed bars across the way, and then + took them down again, for which they demanded money. + </p> + <p> + At length we reached the top of the pass. Many pilgrims to Einsiedeln had + stopped at a little inn there, some of whom came a long distance to pay + their vows, especially as the next day was the Ascension day of the + Virgin, whose image there is noted for performing many miracles. Passing + on, we crossed a wild torrent by an arch called the "Devil's Bridge." The + lofty, elevated plains were covered with scanty patches of grain and + potatoes, and the boys tended their goats on the grassy slopes, sometimes + trilling or <i>yodling</i> an Alpine melody. An hour's walk brought us to + Einsiedeln, a small town, whose only attraction is the Abbey—after + Loretto, in Italy, the most celebrated resort for pilgrims in Europe. + </p> + <p> + We entered immediately into the great church. The gorgeous vaulted roof + and long aisles were dim with the early evening; hundreds of worshippers + sat around the sides, or kneeled in groups on the broad stone pavements, + chanting over their Paternosters and Ave Marias in a shrill, monotonous + tone, while the holy image near the entrance was surrounded by persons, + many of whom came in the hope of being healed of some disorder under which + they suffered. I could not distinctly make out the image, for it was + placed back within the grating, and a strong crimson lamp behind it was + made to throw the light around, in the form of a glory. Many of the + pilgrims came a long distance. I saw some in the costume of the Black + Forest, and others who appeared to be natives of the Italian Cantons; and + a group of young women wearing conical fur caps, from the forests of + Bregenz, on the Lake of Constance. + </p> + <p> + I was astonished at the splendor of this church, situated in a lonely and + unproductive Alpine valley. The lofty arches of the ceiling, which are + covered with superb fresco paintings, rest on enormous pillars of granite, + and every image and shrine is richly ornamented with gold. Some of the + chapels were filled with the remains of martyrs, and these were always + surrounded with throngs of believers. The choir was closed by a tall iron + grating; a single lamp, which swung from the roof, enabled me to see + through the darkness, that though much more rich in ornaments than the + body of the church, it was less grand and impressive. The frescoes which + cover the ceiling, are said to be the finest paintings of the kind in + Switzerland. + </p> + <p> + In the morning our starting was delayed by the rain, and we took advantage + of it to hear mass in the Abbey and enjoy the heavenly music. The latter + was of the loftiest kind; there was one voice among the singers I shall + not soon forget. It was like the warble of a bird who sings out of very + wantonness. On and on it sounded, making its clear, radiant sweetness + heard above the chant of the choir and the thunder of the orchestra. Such + a rich, varied and untiring strain of melody I have rarely listened to. + </p> + <p> + When the service ceased, we took a small road leading to Schwytz. We had + now fairly entered the Alpine region, and our first task was to cross a + mountain. This having been done, we kept along the back of the ridge which + bounds the lake of Zug on the south, terminating in the well known + Rossberg. The scenery became wilder with every step. The luxuriant fields + of herbage on the mountains were spotted with the picturesque <i>chalets</i> + of the hunters and Alp-herds; cattle and goats were browsing along the + declivities, their bells tinkling most musically, and the little streams + fell in foam down the steeps. We here began to realize our anticipations + of Swiss scenery. Just on the other side of the range, along which we + traveled, lay the little lake of Egeri and valley of Morgarten, where Tell + and his followers overcame the army of the German Emperor; near the lake + of Lowertz, we found a chapel by the roadside, built on the spot where the + house of Werner Stauffacher, one of the "three men of Grütli," formerly + stood. It bears a poetical inscription in old German, and a rude painting + of the Battle of Morgarten. + </p> + <p> + As we wound around the lake of Lowertz, we saw the valley lying between + the Rossberg and the Righi, which latter mountain stood full in view. To + our regret, and that of all other travelers, the clouds hung low upon it, + as they had done for a week at least, and there was no prospect of a + change. The Rossberg, from which we descended, is about four thousand feet + in height; a dark brown stripe from its very summit to the valley below, + shows the track of the avalanche which, in 1806, overwhelmed Goldau, and + laid waste the beautiful vale of Lowertz. We could trace the masses of + rock and earth as far as the foot of the Righi. Four hundred and fifty + persons perished by this catastrophe, which was so sudden that in five + minutes the whole lovely valley was transformed into a desolate + wilderness. The shock was so great that the lake of Lowertz overflowed its + banks, and part of the village of Steinen at the upper end was destroyed + by the waters. + </p> + <p> + An hour's walk through a blooming Alpine vale brought us to the little + town of Schwytz, the capital of the Canton. It stands at the foot of a + rock-mountain, in shape not unlike Gibraltar, but double its height. The + bare and rugged summits seem to hang directly over the town, but the + people dwell below without fear, although the warning ruins of Goldau are + full in sight. A narrow blue line at the end of the valley which stretches + westward, marks the lake of the Four Cantons. Down this valley we hurried, + that we might not miss the boat which plies daily, from Luzerne to + Fluelen. I regretted not being able to visit Luzerne, as I had a letter to + the distinguished Swiss composer, Schnyder von Wartensee, who resides + there at present. The place is said to present a most desolate appearance, + being avoided by travelers, and even by artisans, so that business of all + kinds has almost entirely ceased. + </p> + <p> + At the little town of Brunnen, on the lake, we awaited the coming of the + steamboat. The scenery around it is exceedingly grand. Looking down + towards Luzerne, we could see the dark mass of Mount Pilatus on one side, + and on the other the graceful outline of the Righi, still wearing his hood + of clouds. We put off in a skiff to meet the boat, with two Capuchin + friars in long brown mantles and cowls, carrying rosaries at their + girdles. + </p> + <p> + Nearly opposite Brunnen is the meadow of Grütli, where the union of the + Swiss patriots took place, and the bond was sealed that enabled them to + cast off their chains. It is a little green slope on the side of the + mountain, between the two Cantons of Uri and Unterwalden, surrounded on + all sides by precipices. A little crystal spring in the centre is believed + by the common people to have gushed up on the spot where the three "linked + the hands that made them free." It is also a popular belief that they + slumber in a rocky cavern near the spot, and that they will arise and come + forth when the liberties of Switzerland are in danger. She stands at + present greatly in need of a new triad to restore the ancient harmony. + </p> + <p> + We passed this glorious scene, almost the only green spot on the bleak + mountain-side, and swept around the base of the Axenberg, at whose foot, + in a rocky cave, stands the chapel of William Tell. This is built on the + spot where he leaped from Gessler's boat during the storm. It sits at the + base of the rock, on the water's edge, and can be seen far over the waves. + The Alps, whose eternal snows are lifted dazzling to the sky, complete the + grandeur of a scene so hallowed by the footsteps of freedom. The grand and + lonely solemnity of the landscape impressed me with an awe, like that one + feels when standing in a mighty cathedral, when the aisles are dim with + twilight. And how full of interest to a citizen of young and free America + is a shrine where the votaries of Liberty have turned to gather strength + and courage, through the storms and convulsions of five hundred years! + </p> + <p> + We stopped at the village of Fluelen, at the head of the lake, and walked + on to Altorf, a distance of half a league. Here, in the market-place, is a + tower said to be built on the spot where the linden tree stood, under + which the child of Tell was placed, while, about a hundred yards distant, + is a fountain with Tell's statue, on the spot from whence he shot the + apple. If these localities are correct, he must indeed have been master of + the cross-bow. The tower is covered with rude paintings of the principal + events in the history of Swiss liberty. I viewed these scenes with double + interest from having read Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell," one of the most + splendid tragedies ever written. The beautiful reply of his boy, when he + described to him the condition of the "land where there are no mountains," + was sounding in my ears during the whole day's journey: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Father, I'd feel oppressed in that broad land, + I'd rather dwell beneath the avalanche!" +</pre> + <p> + The little village of Burglen, whose spire we saw above the forest, in a + glen near by, was the birth-place of Tell, and the place where his + dwelling stood, is now marked by a small chapel. In the Schachen, a noisy + mountain stream that comes down to join the Reuss, he was drowned, when an + old man, in attempting to rescue a child who had fallen in—a death + worthy of the hero! We bestowed a blessing on his memory in passing, and + then followed the banks of the rapid Reuss. Twilight was gathering in the + deep Alpine glen, and the mountains on each side, half-seen through the + mist, looked like vast, awful phantoms. Soon they darkened to black, + indistinct masses; all was silent except the deepened roar of the falling + floods; dark clouds brooded above us like the outspread wings of night, + and we were glad, when the little village of Amstegg was reached, and the + parlor of the inn opened to us a more cheerful, if not so romantic scene. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXX. — PASSAGE OF THE ST. GOTHARD AND DESCENT INTO ITALY. + </h2> + <p> + Leaving Amstegg, I passed the whole day among snowy, sky-piercing Alps, + torrents, chasms and clouds! The clouds appeared to be breaking up as we + set out, and the white top of the Reassberg was now and then visible in + the sky. Just above the village are the remains of Zwing Uri, the castle + begun by the tyrant Gessler, for the complete subjugation of the canton. + Following the Reuss up through a narrow valley, we passed the + Bristenstock, which lifts its jagged crags nine thousand feet in the air, + while on the other side stand the snowy summits which lean towards the + Rhone Glacier and St. Gothard. From the deep glen where the Reuss foamed + down towards the Lake of the Forest Cantons, the mountains rose with a + majestic sweep so far into the sky that the brain grew almost dizzy in + following their outlines. Woods, chalets and slopes of herbage covered + their bases, where the mountain cattle and goats were browsing, while the + herd-boys sang their native melodies or woke the ringing echoes with the + loud, sweet sounds of their wooden horns; higher up, the sides were broken + into crags and covered with stunted pines; then succeeded a belt of bare + rock with a little snow lying in the crevices, and the summits of dazzling + white looked out from the clouds nearly three-fourths the height of the + zenith. Sometimes when the vale was filled with clouds, it was startling + to see them parting around a solitary summit, apparently isolated in the + air at an immense height, for the mountain to which it belonged was hidden + to the very base! + </p> + <p> + The road passed from one side of the valley to the other, crossing the + Reuss on bridges sometimes ninety feet high. After three or four hours + walking, we reached a frightful pass called the Schollenen. So narrow is + the defile that before reaching it, the road seemed to enter directly into + the mountain. Precipices a thousand feet high tower above, and the stream + roars and boils in the black depth below. The road is a wonder of art; it + winds around the edge of horrible chasms or is carried on lofty arches + across, with sometimes a hold apparently so frail that one involuntarily + shudders. At a place called the Devil's Bridge, the Reuss leaps about + seventy feet in three or four cascades, sending up continually a cloud of + spray, while a wind created by the fall, blows and whirls around, with a + force that nearly lifts one from his feet. Wordsworth has described the + scene in the following lines: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Plunge with the Reuss embrowned by terror's breath, + Where danger roofs the narrow walks of Death; + By floods that, thundering from their dizzy height, + Swell more gigantic on the steadfast sight, + Black, drizzling crags, that, beaten by the din, + Vibrate, us if a voice complained within, + Loose hanging rocks, the Day's blessed eye that hide, + And crosses reared to Death on every side!" +</pre> + <p> + Beyond the Devil's Bridge, the mountains which nearly touched before, + interlock into each other, and a tunnel three hundred and seventy-five + feet long leads through the rock into the vale of Urseren, surrounded by + the Upper Alps. The little town of Andermatt lies in the middle of this + valley, which with the peaks around is covered with short, yellowish-brown + grass. We met near Amstegg a little Italian boy walking home, from + Germany, quite alone and without money, for we saw him give his last + kreutzer to a blind beggar along the road. We therefore took him with us, + as he was afraid to cross the St. Gothard alone. + </p> + <p> + After refreshing ourselves at Andermatt, we started, five in number, + including a German student, for the St. Gothard. Behind the village of + Hospiz, which stands at the bottom of the valley leading to Realp and the + Furca pass, the way commences, winding backwards and forwards, higher and + higher, through a valley covered with rocks, with the mighty summits of + the Alps around, untenanted save by the chamois and mountain eagle. Not a + tree was to be seen. The sides of the mountains were covered with loose + rocks waiting for the next torrent to wash them down, and the tops were + robed in eternal snow. A thick cloud rolled down over us as we went on, + following the diminishing brooks to their snowy source in the peak of St. + Gothard. We cut off the bends of the road by footpaths up the rocks, which + we ascended in single file, one of the Americans <i>going ahead</i> and + little Pietro with his staff and bundle bringing up the rear. The rarefied + air we breathed, seven thousand feet above the sea, was like exhilarating + gas. We felt no fatigue, but ran and shouted and threw snowballs, in the + middle of August! + </p> + <p> + After three hours' walk we reached the two clear and silent lakes which + send their waters to the Adriatic and the North Sea. Here, as we looked + down the Italian side, the sky became clear; we saw the top of St. Gothard + many thousand feet above, and stretching to the south, the summits of the + mountains which guard the vales of the Ticino and the Adda. The former + monastery has been turned into an inn; there is, however, a kind of church + attached, attended by a single monk. It was so cold that although late, we + determined to descend to the first village. The Italian side is very + steep, and the road, called the Via Trimola, is like a thread dropped down + and constantly doubling back upon itself. The deep chasms were filled with + snow, although exposed to the full force of the sun, and for a long + distance there was scarcely a sign of vegetation. + </p> + <p> + We thought as we went down, that every step was bringing us nearer to a + sunnier land—that the glories of Italy, which had so long lain in + the airy background of the future, would soon spread themselves before us + in their real or imagined beauty. Reaching at dusk the last height above + the vale of the Ticino, we saw the little village of Airolo with its + musical name, lying in a hollow of the mountains. A few minutes of + leaping, sliding and rolling, took us down the grassy declivity, and we + found we had descended from the top in an hour and a half, although the + distance by the road is nine miles! I need not say how glad we were to + relieve our trembling knees and exhausted limbs. + </p> + <p> + I have endeavored several times to give some idea of the sublimity of the + Alps, but words seem almost powerless to measure these mighty mountains. + No effort of the imagination could possibly equal their real grandeur. I + wish also to describe the <i>feelings</i> inspired by being among them,—feelings + which can best be expressed through the warmer medium of poetry. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + SONG OF THE ALP. + I. — I sit aloft on my thunder throne, + And my voice of dread the nations own + As I speak in storm below! + The valleys quake with a breathless fear, + When I hurl in wrath my icy spear + And shake my locks of snow! + When the avalanche forth like a tiger leaps, + How the vassal-mountains quiver! + And the storm that sweeps through the airy deeps + Makes the hoary pine-wood shiver! + Above them all, in a brighter air, + I lift my forehead proud and bare, + And the lengthened sweep of my forest-robe + Trails down to the low and captured globe, + Till its borders touch the dark green wave + In whose soundless depths my feet I lave. + The winds, unprisoned, around me blow, + And terrible tempests whirl the snow; + Rocks from their caverned beds are torn, + And the blasted forest to heaven is borne; + High through the din of the stormy band, + Like misty giants the mountains stand, + And their thunder-revel o'er-sounds the woe, + That cries from the desolate vales below! + I part the clouds with my lifted crown, + Till the sun-ray slants on the glaciers down, + And trembling men, in the valleys pale, + Rejoice at the gleam of my icy mail! + + II. — I wear a crown of the sunbeam's gold, + With glacier-gems en my forehead old— + A monarch crowned by God! + What son of the servile earth may dare + Such signs of a regal power to wear, + While chained to her darkened sod? + I know of a nobler and grander lore + Than Time records on his crumbling pages, + And the soul of my solitude teaches more + Than the gathered deeds of perished ages! + For I have ruled since Time began + And wear no fetter made by man. + I scorn the coward and craven race + Who dwell around my mighty base, + For they leave the lessons I grandly gave + And bend to the yoke of the crouching slave. + I shout aloud to the chainless skies; + The stream through its falling foam replies, + And my voice, like the sound of the surging sea, + To the nations thunders: "<i>I am free!</i>" + I spoke to Tell when a tyrant's hand + Lay heavy and hard on his native land, + And the spirit whose glory from mine he won + Blessed the Alpine dwellers with Freedom's sun! + The student-boy on the Gmunden-plain + Heard my solemn voice, but he fought in vain; + I called from the crags of the Passeir-glen, + When the despot stood in my realm again, + And Hofer sprang at the proud command + And roused the men of the Tyrol land! + + III. — I struggle up to the dim blue heaven, + From the world, far down in whose breast are driven + The props of my pillared throne; + And the rosy fires of morning glow + Like a glorious thought, on my brow of snow, + While the vales are dark and lone! + Ere twilight summons the first faint star, + I seem to the nations who dwell afar + Like a shadowy cloud, whose every fold + The sunset dyes with its purest gold, + And the soul mounts up through that gateway fair + To try its wings in a loftier air! + The finger of God on my brow is pressed— + His spirit beats in my giant breast, + And I breathe, as the endless ages roll, + His silent words to the eager soul! + I prompt the thoughts of the mighty mind, + Who leaves his century far behind + And speaks from the Future's sun-lit snow + To the Present, that sleeps in its gloom below! + I stand, unchanged, in creation's youth— + A glorious type of Eternal Truth, + That, free and pure, from its native skies + Shines through Oppression's veil of lies, + And lights the world's long-fettered sod + With thoughts of Freedom and of God! +</pre> + <p> + When, at night, I looked out of my chamber-window, the silver moon of + Italy, (for we fancied that her light was softer and that the skies were + already bluer) hung trembling above the fields of snow that stretched in + their wintry brilliance along the mountains around. I heard the roar of + the Ticino and the deepened sound of falling cascades, and thought, if I + were to take those waters for my guide, to what glorious places they would + lead me! + </p> + <p> + We left Airolo early the next morning, to continue our journey down the + valley of the Ticino. The mists and clouds of Switzerland were exchanged + for a sky of the purest blue, and we felt, for the first time in ten days, + uncomfortably warm. The mountains which flank the Alps on this side, are + still giants—lofty and bare, and covered with snow in many places. + The limit of the German dialect is on the summit of St. Gothard, and the + peasants saluted us with a "<i>buon giorno</i>" as they passed. This, with + the clearness of the skies and the warmth of the air, made us feel that + Italy was growing nearer. + </p> + <p> + The mountains are covered with forests of dark pine, and many beautiful + cascades come tumbling over the rocks in their haste to join the Ticino. + One of these was so strangely beautiful, that I cannot pass it without a + particular description. We saw it soon after leaving Airolo, on the + opposite side of the valley. A stream of considerable size comes down the + mountain, leaping from crag to crag till within forty or fifty feet of the + bottom, where it is caught in a hollow rock, and flung upwards into the + air, forming a beautiful arch as it falls out into the valley. As it is + whirled up thus, feathery curls of spray are constantly driven off and + seem to wave round it like the fibres on an ostrich plume. The sun shining + through, gave it a sparry brilliance which was perfectly magnificent. If I + were an artist, I would give much for such a new form of beauty. + </p> + <p> + On our first day's journey we passed through two terrific mountain gorges, + almost equalling in grandeur the defile of the "Devil's Bridge." The + Ticino, in its course to Lago Maggiore has to make a descent of nearly + three thousand feet, passing through three valleys, which lie like + terraces, one below the other. In its course from one to the other, it has + to force its way down in twenty cataracts through a cleft in the + mountains. The road, constructed with the utmost labor, threads these dark + chasms, sometimes carried in a tunnel through the rock, sometimes passing + on arches above the boiling flood. The precipices of bare rock rise far + above and render the way difficult and dangerous. I here noticed another + very beautiful effect of the water, perhaps attributable to some mineral + substance it contained. The spray and foam thrown up in the dashing of the + vexed current, was of a light, delicate pink, although the stream itself + was a soft blue; and the contrast of these two colors was very remarkable. + </p> + <p> + As we kept on, however, there was a very perceptible change in the + scenery. The gloomy pines disappeared and the mountains were covered, in + their stead, with picturesque chesnut trees, with leaves of a shining + green. The grass and vegetation was much more luxuriant than on the other + side of the Alps, and fields of maize and mulberry orchards covered the + valley. We saw the people busy at work reeling silk in the villages. Every + mile we advanced made a sensible change in the vegetation. The chesnuts + were larger, the maize higher, the few straggling grape-vines increased + into bowers and vineyards, while the gardens were filled with plum, pear + and fig-trees, and the stands of delicious fruit which we saw in the + villages, gave us promise of the luxuriance that was to come. + </p> + <p> + The vineyards are much more beautiful than the German fields of stakes. + The vines are not trimmed, but grow from year to year over a frame higher + than the head, supported through the whole field on stone pillars. They + interlace and form a complete leafy screen, while the clusters hang below. + The light came dimly through the green, transparent leaves, and nothing + was wanting to make them real bowers of Arcadia. Although we were still in + Switzerland, the people began to have that lazy, indolent look which + characterizes the Italians; most of the occupations were carried on in the + open air, and brown-robed, sandalled friars were going about from house to + house, collecting money and provisions for their support. + </p> + <p> + We passed Faidò and Giornico, near which last village are the remains of + an old castle, supposed to have been built by the ancient Gauls, and + stopped for the night at Cresciano, which being entirely Italian, we had + an opportunity to put in practice the few words we had picked up from + Pietro. The little fellow parted from us with regret a few hours before, + at Biasco, where he had relations. The rustic landlord at Cresciano was an + honest young fellow, who tried to serve us as well as he could, but we + made some ludicrous mistakes through our ignorance of the language. + </p> + <p> + Three hours' walk brought us to Bellinzona, the capital of the canton. + Before reaching it, our road joined that of the Splügen which comes down + through the valley of Bernardino. From the bridge where the junction takes + place we had a triple view, whose grandeur took me by surprise, even after + coming from Switzerland. We stood at the union of three valleys—that + leading to St. Gothard, terminated by the glaciers of the Bernese + Oberland, that running off obliquely to the Splügen, and finally the broad + vale of the Ticino, extending to Lago Maggiore, whose purple mountains + closed the vista. Each valley was perhaps two miles broad and from twenty + to thirty long, and the mountains that enclosed them from five to seven + thousand feet in height, so you may perhaps form some idea what a view + down three such avenues in this Alpine temple would be. Bellinzona is + romantically situated, on a slight eminence, with three castles to defend + it, with those square turreted towers and battlements, which remind one + involuntarily of the days of the Goths and Vandals. + </p> + <p> + We left Bellinzona at noon, and saw, soon after, from an eminence, the + blue line of Lago Maggiore stretched across the bottom of the valley. We + saw sunset fade away over the lake, but it was clouded, and did not + realize my ideal of such a scene in Italy. A band of wild Italians paraded + up and down the village, drawing one of their number in a hand-cart. They + made a great noise with a drum and trumpet, and were received everywhere + with shouts of laughter. A great jug of wine was not wanting, and the + whole seemed to me a very characteristic scene. + </p> + <p> + We were early awakened at Magadino, at the head of Lago Maggiore, and + after swallowing a hasty breakfast, went on board the steamboat "San + Carlo," for Sesto Calende. We got under way at six o'clock, and were soon + in motion over the crystal mirror. The water is of the most lovely green + hue, and so transparent that we seemed to bo floating in mid-air. Another + heaven arched far below us; other chains of mountains joined their bases + to those which surrounded the lake, and the mirrored cascades leaped + upward to meet their originals at the surface. It may be because I have + seen it more recently, that the water of Lago Maggiore appears to be the + most beautiful in the world. I was delighted with the Scotch lakes, and + enraptured with the Traunsee and "Zurich's waters," but this last exceeds + them both. I am now incapable of any stronger feeling, until I see the + Egean from the Grecian Isles. + </p> + <p> + The morning was cloudy, and the white wreaths hung low on the mountains, + whose rocky sides were covered every where with the rank and luxuriant + growth of this climate. As we advanced further over this glorious mirror, + the houses became more Italian-like; the lower stories rested on arched + passages, and the windows were open, without glass, while in the gardens + stood the solemn, graceful cypress, and vines, heavy with ripening grapes, + hung from bough to bough through the mulberry orchards. Half-way down, in + a broad bay, which receives the waters of a stream that comes down with + the Simplon, are the celebrated Borromean Islands. They are four in + number, and seem to float like fairy creations on the water, while the + lofty hills form a background whose grandeur enhances by contrast their + exquisite beauty. There was something in the scene that reminded me of + Claude Melnotte's description of his home, by Bulwer, and like the lady of + Lyons, I answer readily, "I like the picture." + </p> + <p> + On passing by Isola Madre, we could see the roses in its terraced gardens + and the broad-leaved aloes clinging to the rocks. Isola Bella, the + loveliest of them all, as its name denotes, was farther off; it rose like + a pyramid from the water, terrace above terrace to the summit, and its + gardens of never fading foliage, with the glorious panorama around, might + make it a paradise, if life were to be dreamed away. On the northern side + of the bay lies a large town (I forget its name,) with a lofty Romanesque + tower, and noble mountains sweep around as if to shut out the world from + such a scene. The sea was perfectly calm, and groves and gardens slept + mirrored in the dark green wave, while the Alps rose afar through the dim, + cloudy air. Towards the other end the hills sink lower, and slope off into + the plains of Lombardy. Near Arona, on the western side, is a large + monastery, overlooking the lower part of the lake. Beside it, on a hill, + is a colossal statue of San Carlo Borromeo, who gave his name to the + lovely islands above. + </p> + <p> + After a seven hours' passage, we ran into Sesto Calende, at the foot of + the lake. Here, passengers and baggage were tumbled promiscuously on + shore, the latter gathered into the office to be examined, and the former + left at liberty to ramble about an hour until their passports could be + signed. We employed the time in trying the flavor of the grapes and + peaches of Lombardy, and looking at the groups of travelers who had come + down from the Alps with the annual avalanche at this season. The custom + house officers were extremely civil and obliging, as they did not think + necessary to examine our knapsacks, and our passports being soon signed, + we were at liberty to enter again into the dominions of His Majesty of + Austria. Our companion, the German, whose feet could carry him no further, + took a seat on the top of a diligence for Milan; <i>we</i> left Sesto + Calende on foot, and plunged into the cloud of dust which was whirling + towards the capital of Northern Italy. + </p> + <p> + Being now really in the "sunny land," we looked on the scenery with a deep + interest. The first thing that struck me was a resemblance to America in + the fields of Indian corn, and the rank growth of weeds by the roadside. + The mulberry trees and hedges, too, looked quite familiar, coming as we + did, from fenceless and hedgeless Germany. But here the resemblance + ceased. The people were coarse, ignorant and savage-looking, the villages + remarkable for nothing except the contrast between splendid churches and + miserable, dirty houses, while the luxurious palaces and grounds of the + rich noblemen formed a still greater contrast to the poverty of the + people. I noticed also that if the latter are as lazy as they are said to + be, they make their horses work for them, as in a walk of a few hours + yesterday after noon, we saw two horses drawing heavy loads, drop down + apparently dead, and several others seemed nearly ready to do the same. + </p> + <p> + We spent the night at the little village of Casina, about sixteen miles + from Milan, and here made our first experience in the honesty of Italian + inns. We had taken the precaution to inquire beforehand the price of a + bed; but it seemed unnecessary and unpleasant, as well as evincing a + mistrustful spirit, to do the same with every article we asked for, so we + concluded to leave it to the host's conscience not to overcharge us. + Imagine our astonishment, however, when at starting, a bill was presented + to us, in which the smallest articles were set down at three or four times + their value. We remonstrated, hut to little purpose; the fellow knew + scarcely any French, and we as little Italian, so rather than lose time or + temper, we paid what he demanded and went on, leaving him to laugh at the + successful imposition. The experience was of value to us, however, and it + may serve as a warning to some future traveler. + </p> + <p> + About noon, the road turned into a broad and beautiful avenue of poplars, + down which we saw, at a distance, the triumphal arch terminating the + Simplon road, which we had followed from Sesto Calende. Beyond it rose the + slight and airy pinnacle of the Duomo. We passed by the exquisite + structure, gave up our passports at the gates, traversed the broad Piazza + d'Armi, and found ourselves at liberty to choose one of the dozen streets + that led into the heart of the city. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXI. — MILAN. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Aug. 21.</i>—While finding our way at random to the "Pension + Suisse," whither we had been directed by a German gentleman, we were + agreeably impressed with the gaiety and bustle of Milan. The shops and + stores are all open to the street, so that the city resembles a great + bazaar. It has an odd look to see blacksmiths, tailors and shoemakers + working unconcernedly in the open air, with crowds continually passing + before them. The streets are filled with venders of fruit, who call out + the names with a long, distressing cry, like that of a person in great + agony. Organ-grinders parade constantly about and snatches of songs are + heard among the gay crowd, on every side. + </p> + <p> + In this lively, noisy Italian city, nearly all there is to see may be + comprised in four things: the Duomo, the triumphal arch over the Simplon, + La Scala and the Picture Gallery. The first alone is more interesting than + many an entire city. We went there yesterday afternoon soon after reaching + here. It stands in an irregular open place, closely hemmed in by houses on + two sides, so that it can be seen to advantage from only one point. It is + a mixture of the Gothic and Romanesque styles; the body of the structure + is entirely covered with statues and richly wrought sculpture, with + needle-like spires of white marble rising up from every corner. But of the + exquisite, airy look of the whole mass, although so solid and vast, it is + impossible to convey an idea. It appears like some fabric of frost-work + which winter traces on the window-panes. There is a unity of beauty about + the whole, which the eye takes in with a feeling of perfect and satisfied + delight. + </p> + <p> + Ascending the marble steps which lead to the front, I lifted the folds of + the heavy curtain and entered. What a glorious aisle! The mighty pillars + support a magnificent arched ceiling, painted to resemble fretwork, and + the little light that falls through the small windows above, enters tinged + with a dim golden hue. A feeling of solemn awe comes over one as he steps + with a hushed tread along the colored marble floor, and measures the + massive columns till they blend with the gorgeous arches above. There are + four rows of these, nearly fifty in all, and when I state that they are + eight feet in diameter, and sixty or seventy in height, some idea may be + formed of the grandeur of the building. Imagine the Girard College, at + Philadelphia, turned into one great hall, with four rows of pillars, equal + in size to those around it, reaching to its roof, and you will have a + rough sketch of the interior of the Duomo. + </p> + <p> + In the centre of the cross is a light and beautiful dome; he who will + stand under this, and look down the broad middle aisle to the entrance, + has one of the sublimest vistas to be found in the world. The choir has + three enormous windows, covered with dazzling paintings, and the ceiling + is of marble and silver. There are gratings under the high altar, by + looking into which, I could see a dark, lonely chamber below, where one or + two feeble lamps showed a circle of praying-places. It was probably a + funeral vault, which persons visited to pray for the repose of their + friends' souls. The Duomo is not yet entirely finished, the workmen being + still employed in various parts, but it is said, that when completed there + will be four thousand statues on the different parts of it. + </p> + <p> + The design of the Duomo is said to be taken from Monte Rosa, one of the + loftiest peaks of the Alps. Its hundreds of sculptured pinnacles, rising + from every part of the body of the church, certainly bear a striking + resemblance to the splintered ice-crags of Savoy. Thus we see how Art, + mighty and endless in her forms though she be, is in every thing but the + child of Nature. Her most divine conceptions are but copies of objects + which we behold every day. The faultless beauty of the Corinthian capital—the + springing and intermingling arches of the Gothic aisle—the pillared + portico or the massive and sky-piercing pyramid—are but attempts at + reproducing, by the studied regularity of Art, the ever-varied and + ever-beautiful forms of mountain, rock and forest. But there is oftentimes + a more thrilling sensation of enjoyment produced by the creations of man's + hand and intellect than the grander effects of Nature, existing constantly + before our eyes. It would seem as if man marvelled more at his own work + than at the work of the Power which created him. + </p> + <p> + The streets of Milan abound with priests in their cocked hats and long + black robes. They all have the same solemn air, and seem to go about like + beings shut out from all communion with pleasure. No sight lately has + saddened me so much as to see a bright, beautiful boy, of twelve or + thirteen years, in those gloomy garments. Poor child! he little knows now + what he may have to endure. A lonely, cheerless life, where every + affection must be crushed as unholy, and every pleasure denied as a crime! + And I knew by his fair brow and tender lip, that he had a warm and loving + heart. I could not help regarding this class as victims to a mistaken idea + of religious duty, and if I am not mistaken, I read on more than one + countenance the traces of passions that burned within. It is mournful to + see a people oppressed in the name of religion. The holiest aspirations of + man's nature, instead of lifting him up to a nearer view of Christian + perfection, are changed into clouds and shut out the light of heaven. + Immense treasures, wrung drop by drop from the credulity of the poor and + ignorant, are made use of to pamper the luxury of those who profess to be + mediators between man and the Deity. The poor wretch may perish of + starvation on a floor of precious mosaic, which perhaps his own pittance + has helped to form, while ceilings and shrines of inlaid gold mock his + dying eye with their useless splendor. Such a system of oppression, + disguised under the holiest name, can only be sustained by the continuance + of ignorance and blind superstition. Knowledge—Truth—Reason—these + are the ramparts which Liberty throws up to guard her dominions from the + usurpations of oppression and wrong. + </p> + <p> + We were last night in La Scala. Rossini's opera of William Tell was + advertised, and as we had visited so lately the scene where that glorious + historical drama was enacted, we went to see it represented in sound. It + is a grand subject, which in the hands of a powerful composer, might be + made very effective, but I must confess I was disappointed in the present + case. The overture is, however, very beautiful. It begins low and + mournful, like the lament of the Swiss over their fallen liberties. + Occasionally a low drum is heard, as if to rouse them to action, and + meanwhile the lament swells to a cry of despair. The drums now wake the + land; the horn of Uri is heard pealing forth its summoning strain, and the + echoes seem to come back from the distant Alps. The sound then changes for + the roar of battle—the clang of trumpets, drums and cymbals. The + whole orchestra did their best to represent this combat in music, which + after lasting a short time, changed into the loud, victorious march of the + conquerors. But the body of the opera, although it had several fine + passages, was to me devoid of interest; in fact, unworthy the reputation + of Rossini. + </p> + <p> + The theatre is perhaps the largest in the world. The singers are all good; + in Italy it could not be otherwise, where everybody sings. As I write, a + party of Italians in the house opposite have been amusing themselves with + going through the whole opera of "<i>La fille du Regiment</i>," with the + accompaniment of the piano, and they show the greatest readiness and + correctness in their performance. They have now become somewhat + boisterous, and appear to be improvising. One young gentleman executes + trills with amazing skill, and another appears to have taken the part of a + despairing lover, but the lady has a very pretty voice, and warbles on and + on, like a nightingale. Occasionally a group of listeners in the street + below clap them applause, for as the windows are always open, the whole + neighborhood can enjoy the performance. + </p> + <p> + This forenoon I was in the Picture Gallery. It occupies a part of the + Library Building, in the Palazzo Cabrera. It is not large, and many of the + pictures are of no value to anybody but antiquarians; still there are some + excellent paintings, which render it well worthy a visit. Among these, a + marriage, by Raphael, is still in a very good state of preservation, and + there are some fine pictures by Paul Veronese and the Caracci. The most + admired painting, is "Abraham sending away Hagar," by Guercino. I never + saw a more touching expression of grief than in the face of Hagar. Her + eyes are red with weeping, and as she listens in an agony of tears to the + patriarch's command, she still seems doubting the reality of her doom. The + countenance of Abraham is venerable and calm, and expresses little + emotion; but one can read in that of Sarah, as she turns away, a feeling + of pity for her unfortunate rival. + </p> + <p> + Next to the Duomo, the most beautiful specimen of architecture in Milan is + the ARCH OF PEACE, on the north side of the city, at the commencement of + the Simplon Road. It was the intention of Napoleon to carry the road under + this arch, across the Piazza d'Armi, and to cut a way for it directly into + the heart of the city, but the fall of his dynasty prevented the execution + of this magnificent design, as well as the completion of the arch itself. + This has been done by the Austrian government, according to the original + plan; they have inscribed upon it the name of Francis I., and changed the + bas-reliefs of Lodi and Marengo into those of a few fields where their + forces had gained the victory. It is even said that in many parts which + were already finished, they altered the splendid Roman profile of Napoleon + into the haggard and repulsive features of Francis of Austria. + </p> + <p> + The bronze statues on the top were made by an artist of Bologna, by + Napoleon's order, and are said to be the finest works of modern times. In + the centre is the goddess of Peace, in a triumphal car, drawn by six + horses, while on the corners four angels, mounted, are starting off to + convey the tidings to the four quarters of the globe. The artist has + caught the spirit of motion and chained it in these moveless figures. One + would hardly feel surprised if the goddess, chariot, horses and all, were + to start off and roll away through the air. + </p> + <p> + With the rapidity usual to Americans we have already finished seeing + Milan, and shall start to-morrow morning on a walk to Genoa. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0032" id="link2HCH0032"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXII. — WALK FROM MILAN TO GENOA. + </h2> + <p> + It was finally decided we should leave Milan, so the next morning we arose + at five o'clock for the first time since leaving Frankfort. The Italians + had commenced operations at this early hour, but we made our way through + the streets without attracting quite so much attention as on our arrival. + Near the gate on the road to Pavia, we passed a long colonnade which was + certainly as old as the times of the Romans. The pillars of marble were + quite brown with age, and bound together with iron to keep them from + falling to pieces. It was a striking contrast to see this relic of the + past standing in the middle of a crowded thoroughfare and surrounded by + all the brilliance and display of modern trade. + </p> + <p> + Once fairly out of the city we took the road to Pavia, along the banks of + the canal, just as the rising sun gilded the marble spire of the Duomo. + The country was a perfect level, and the canal, which was in many places + higher than the land through which it passed, served also as a means of + irrigation for the many rice-fields. The sky grew cloudy and dark, and + before we reached Pavia gathered to a heavy storm. Torrents of rain poured + down, accompanied with heavy thunder; we crept under an old gateway for + shelter, as no house was near. Finally, as it cleared away, the square + brown towers of the old city rose above the trees, and we entered the gate + through a fine shaded avenue. Our passports were of course demanded, but + we were only detained a minute or two. The only thing of interest is the + University, formerly so celebrated; it has at present about eight hundred + students. + </p> + <p> + We have reason to remember the city from another circumstance—the + singular attention we excited. I doubt if Columbus was an object of + greater curiosity to the simple natives of the new world, than we three + Americans were to the good people of Pavia. I know not what part of our + dress or appearance could have caused it, but we were watched like wild + animals. If we happened to pause and look at anything in the street, there + was soon a crowd of attentive observers, and as we passed on, every door + and window was full of heads. We stopped in the marketplace to purchase + some bread and fruit for dinner, which increased, if possible, the + sensation. We saw eyes staring and fingers pointing at us from every door + and alley. I am generally willing to contribute as much as possible to the + amusement or entertainment of others, but such attention was absolutely + embarrassing. There was nothing to do but to appear unconscious of it, and + we went along with as much nonchalance as if the whole town belonged to + us. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the Ticino, on whose banks near Pavia, was fought the first + great battle between Hannibal and the Romans. On the other side our + passports were demanded at the Sardinian frontier and our knapsacks + searched, which having proved satisfactory, we were allowed to enter the + kingdom. Late in the afternoon we reached the Po, which in winter must be + quarter of a mile wide, but the summer heats had dried it up to a small + stream, so that the bridge of boats rested nearly its whole length in + sand. We sat on the bank in the shade, and looked at the chain of hills + which rose in the south, following the course of the Po, crowned with + castles and villages and shining towers. It was here that I first began to + realize Italian scenery. Although the hills were bare, they lay so warm + and glowing in the sunshine, and the deep blue sky spread so calmly above, + that it recalled all my dreams of the fair clime we had entered. + </p> + <p> + We stopped for the night at the little village of Casteggio, which lies at + the foot of the hills, and next morning resumed our pilgrimage. Here a new + delight awaited us. The sky was of a heavenly blue, without even the + shadow of a cloud, and full and fair in the morning sunshine we could see + the whole range of the Alps, from the blue hills of Friuli, which sweep + down to Venice and the Adriatic, to the lofty peaks which stretch away to + Nice and Marseilles! Like a summer cloud, except that they were far more + dazzling and glorious, lay to the north of us the glaciers and untrodden + snow-fields of the Bernese Oberland; a little to the right we saw the + double peak of St. Gothard, where six days before we shivered in the + region of eternal winter, while far to the north-west rose the giant dome + of Mount Blanc. Monte Rosa stood near him, not far from the Great St. + Bernard, and further to the south Mont Cenis guarded the entrance from + Piedmont into France. I leave you to conceive the majesty of such a scene, + and you may perhaps imagine, for I cannot describe the feelings with which + I gazed upon it. + </p> + <p> + At Tortona, the next post, a great market was being held; the town was + filled with country people selling their produce, and with venders of + wares of all kinds. Fruit was very abundant—grapes, ripe figs, + peaches and melons were abundant, and for a trifle one could purchase a + sumptuous banquet. On inquiring the road to Novi, the people made us + understand, after much difficulty, that there was a nearer way across the + country, which came into the post-road again, and we concluded to take it. + After two or three hours' walking in a burning sun, where our only relief + was the sight of the Alps and a view of the battle-field of Marengo, which + lay just on our right, we came to a stand—the road terminated at a + large stream, where workmen were busily engaged in making a bridge across. + We pulled off our boots and waded through, took a refreshing bath in the + clear waters, and walked on through by-lanes. The sides were lined with + luxuriant vines, bending under the ripening vintage, and we often cooled + our thirst with some of the rich bunches. + </p> + <p> + The large branch of the Po we crossed, came down from the mountains, which + we were approaching. As we reached the post-road again, they were glowing + in the last rays of the sun, and the evening vapors that settled over the + plain concealed the distant Alps, although the snowy top of the Jungfrau + and her companions the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, rose above it like the + hills of another world. A castle or church of brilliant white marble + glittered on the summit of one of the mountains near us, and as the sun + went down without a cloud, the distant summits changed in hue to a glowing + purple, amounting almost to crimson, which afterwards darkened into a deep + violet. The western half of the sky was of a pale orange, and the eastern + a dark red, which blended together in the blue of the zenith, that + deepened as twilight came on. I know not if it was a fair specimen of an + Italian sunset, but I must say, without wishing to be partial, that though + certainly very soft and beautiful, there is no comparison with the + splendor of such a scene in America. The day-sky of Italy better deserves + its reputation. Although no clearer than our own, it is of a far brighter + blue, arching above us like a dome of sapphire and seeming to sparkle all + over with a kind of crystal transparency. + </p> + <p> + We stopped the second night at Arquato, a little village among the + mountains, and after having bargained with the merry landlord for our + lodgings, in broken Italian, took a last look at the plains of Piedmont + and the Swiss Alps, in the growing twilight. We gazed out on the darkening + scene till the sky was studded with stars, and went to rest with the + exciting thought of seeing Genoa and the Mediterranean on the morrow. Next + morning we started early, and after walking some distance made our + breakfast in a grove of chesnuts, on the cool mountain side, beside a + fresh stream of water. The sky shone like a polished gem, and the glossy + leaves of the chesnuts gleamed in the morning sun. Here and there, on a + rocky height, stood the remains of some knightly castle, telling of the + Goths and Normans who descended through these mountain passes to plunder + Rome. + </p> + <p> + As the sun grew high, the heat and dust became intolerable, and this, in + connection with the attention we raised everywhere, made us somewhat tired + of foot-traveling in Italy. I verily believe the people took us for + pilgrims on account of our long white blouses, and had I a scallop shell I + would certainly have stuck it into my hat to complete the appearance. We + stopped once to ask a priest the road; when he had told us, he shook hands + with us and gave us a parting benediction. At the common inns, where we + stopped, we always met with civil treatment, though, indeed, as we only + slept in them, there was little chance of practising imposition. We bought + our simple meals at the baker's and grocer's, and ate them in the shade of + the grape-bowers, whose rich clusters added to the repast. In this manner, + we enjoyed Italy at the expense of a franc, daily. About noon, after + winding about through the narrow defiles, the road began ascending. The + reflected heat from the hills on each side made it like an oven; there was + not a breath of air stirring; but we all felt, although no one said it, + that from the summit we could see the Mediterranean, and we pushed on as + if life or death depended on it. Finally, the highest point came in sight—we + redoubled our exertions, and a few minutes more brought us to the top, + breathless with fatigue and expectation. I glanced down the other side—there + lay a real sea of mountains, all around; the farthest peaks rose up afar + and dim, crowned with white towers, and between two of them which stood + apart like the pillars of a gateway, we saw the broad expanse of water + stretching away to the horizon— + </p> + <p> + To where the blue of heaven on bluer waves shut down!" + </p> + <p> + It would have been a thrilling sight to see any ocean, when one has + rambled thousands of miles among the mountains and vales of the inland, + but to behold this sea, of all others, was glorious indeed! This sea, + whose waves wash the feet of Naples, Constantinople and Alexandria, and + break on the hoary shores where Troy and Tyre and Carthage have mouldered + away!—whose breast has been furrowed by the keels of a hundred + nations through more than forty centuries—from the first rude voyage + of Jason and his Argonauts, to the thunders of Navarino that heralded the + second birth of Greece! You cannot wonder we grew romantic; but short + space was left for sentiment in the burning sun, with Genoa to be reached + before night. The mountain we crossed is called the Bochetta, one of the + loftiest of the sea-Alps (or Apennines)—the road winds steeply down + towards the sea, following a broad mountain rivulet, now perfectly dried + up, as nearly every stream among the mountains is. It was a long way to + us; the mountains seemed as if they would never unfold and let us out on + the shore, and our weary limbs did penance enough for a multitude of sins. + The dusk was beginning to deepen over the bay and the purple hues of + sunset were dying away from its amphitheatre of hills, as we came in sight + of the gorgeous city. Half the population were out to celebrate a + festival, and we made our entry in the triumphal procession of some saint. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0033" id="link2HCH0033"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIII. — SCENES IN GENOA, LEGHORN AND PISA. + </h2> + <p> + Have you ever seen some grand painting of a city, rising with its domes + and towers and palaces from the edge of a glorious bay, shut in by + mountains—the whole scene clad in those deep, delicious, sunny hues + which you admire so much in the picture, although they appear unrealized + in Nature? If so, you can figure to yourself Genoa, as she looked to us at + sunset, from the battlements west of the city. When we had passed through + the gloomy gate of the fortress that guards the western promontory, the + whole scene opened at once on us in all its majesty. It looked to me less + like a real landscape than a mighty panoramic painting. The battlements + where we were standing, and the blue mirror of the Mediterranean just + below, with a few vessels moored near the shore, made up the foreground; + just in front lay the queenly city, stretching out to the eastern point of + the bay, like a great meteor—-this point, crowned with the towers + and dome of a cathedral representing the nucleus, while the tail gradually + widened out and was lost among the numberless villas that reached to the + top of the mountains behind. A mole runs nearly across the mouth of the + harbor, with a tall light-house at its extremity, leaving only a narrow + passage for vessels. As we gazed, a purple glow lay on the bosom of the + sea, while far beyond the city, the eastern half of the mountain crescent + around the gulf was tinted with the loveliest hue of orange. The + impressions which one derives from looking on remarkable scenery, depend, + for much of their effect, on the time and weather. I have been very + fortunate in this respect in two instances, and shall carry with me + through life, two glorious pictures of a very different character—the + wild sublimity of the Brocken in cloud and storm, and the splendor of + Genoa in an Italian sunset. + </p> + <p> + Genoa has been called the "city of palaces." and it well deserves the + appellation. Row above row of magnificent structures rise amid gardens + along the side of the hills, and many of the streets, though narrow and + crooked, are lined entirely with the splendid dwellings of the Genoese + nobles. All these speak of the republic in its days of wealth and power, + when it could cope successfully with Venice, and Doria could threaten to + bridle the horses of St. Mark. At present its condition is far different; + although not so fallen as its rival, it is but a shadow of its former self—the + life and energy it possessed as a republic, has withered away under the + grasp of tyranny. + </p> + <p> + We entered Genoa, as I have already said, in a religious procession. On + passing the gate we saw from the concourse of people and the many banners + hanging from the windows or floating across the streets, that it was the + day of a festa. Before entering the city we reached the procession itself, + which was one of unusual solemnity. As it was impossible in the dense + crowd, to pass it, we struggled through till we reached a good point for + seeing the whole, and slowly moved on with it through the city. First went + a company of boys in white robes; then followed a body of friars, dressed + in long black cassocks, and with shaven crowns; then a company of soldiers + with a band of music; then a body of nuns, wrapped from head to foot in + blue robes, leaving only a small place to see out of—in the dusk + they looked very solemn and ghost-like, and their low chant had to me + something awful and sepulchral in it; then followed another company of + friars, and after that a great number of priests in white and black robes, + bearing the statue of the saint, with a pyramid of flowers, crosses and + blazing wax tapers, while companies of soldiery, monks and music brought + up the rear. Armed guards walked at intervals on each side of the + procession, to keep the way clear and prevent disturbance; two or three + bands played solemn airs, alternating with the deep monotonous chanting of + the friars. The whole scene, dimly lighted by the wax tapers, produced in + me a feeling nearly akin to fear, as if I were witnessing some ghostly, + unearthly spectacle. To rites like these, however, which occur every few + weeks, the people must be well accustomed. + </p> + <p> + Among the most interesting objects in Genoa, is the Doria palace, fit in + its splendor for a monarch's residence. It stands in the <i>Strada Nova</i>, + one of the three principal streets, and I believe is still in the + possession of the family. There are many others through the city, scarcely + less magnificent, among which that of the Durazzo family may be pointed + out. The American consulate is in one of these old edifices, with a fine + court-yard and ceilings covered with frescoes. Mr. Moro, the Vice Consul, + did us a great kindness, which I feel bound to acknowledge, although it + will require the disclosure of some private, and perhaps uninteresting + circumstances. On leaving Frankfort, we converted—for the sake of + convenience—the greater part of our funds into a draft on a Saxon + merchant in Leghorn, reserving just enough, as we supposed, to take us + thither. As in our former case, in Germany, the sum was too small, which + we found to our dismay on reaching Milan. Notwithstanding we had traveled + the whole ninety miles from that city to Genoa for three francs each, in + the hope of having enough, left to enable <i>one</i> at least to visit + Leghorn, the expenses for a passport in Genoa (more than twenty francs) + prevented this plan. I went therefore to the Vice Consul to ascertain + whether the merchant on whom the draft was drawn, had any correspondents + there, who might advance a portion of it. His secretary made many + inquiries, but without effect; Mr. Moro then generously offered to furnish + me with means to reach Leghorn, whence I could easily remit a sufficient + sum to my two comrades. This put an end to our anxiety, (for I must + confess we could not help feeling some), and I therefore prepared to leave + that evening in the "Virgilio." + </p> + <p> + The feelings with which I look on this lovely land, are fast changing. + What with the dust and heat, and cheating landlords, and the dull plains + of Lombardy, my first experience was not very prepossessing. But the + joyous and romantic anticipation with which I looked forward to realizing + the dream of my earliest boyhood, is now beginning to be surpassed by the + exciting reality. Every breath I drew in the city of Columbus and Doria, + was deeply tinctured with the magic of history and romance. It was like + entering on a new existence, to look on scenes so lovely by nature and so + filled with the inspiring memories of old. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Italia too, Italia! looking on thee, + Full flashes on the soul the light of ages, + Since the fierce Carthagenian almost won thee, + To the last halo of the chiefs and sages + Who glorify thy consecrated pages! + Thou wert the throne and grave of empires." +</pre> + <p> + The <i>Virgilio</i> was advertised to leave at six o'clock, and I + accordingly went out to her in a little boat half an hour beforehand; but + we were delayed much longer, and I saw sunset again fade over the glorious + amphitheatre of palaces and mountains, with the same orange glow—the + same purple and crimson flush, deepening into twilight—as before. An + old blind man in a skiff, floated around under the bows of the boat on the + glassy water, singing to the violin a plaintive air that appeared to be an + evening hymn to the virgin. There was something very touching in his + venerable countenance, with the sightless eyes turned upward to the sunset + heaven whose glory he could never more behold. + </p> + <p> + The lamps were lit on the tower at the end of the mole as we glided out on + the open sea; I stood on deck and watched the receding lights of the city, + till they and the mountains above them, were blended with the darkened + sky. The sea-breeze was fresh and cool, and the stars glittered with a + frosty clearness, which would have made the night delicious had not a + slight rolling of the waves obliged me to go below. Here, besides being + half seasick, I was placed at the mercy of many voracious fleas, who + obstinately stayed, persisting in keeping me company. This was the first + time I had suffered from these cannibals, and such were my torments, I + almost wished some blood-thirsty Italian would come and put an end to them + with his stiletto. + </p> + <p> + The first ray of dawn that stole into the cabin sent me on deck. The hills + of Tuscany lay in front, sharply outlined on the reddening sky; near us + was the steep and rocky isle of Gorgona; and far to the south-west, like a + low mist along the water, ran the shores of Corsica—the birth place + of Columbus and Napoleon![***] As the dawn brightened we saw on the + southern horizon a cloud-like island, also imperishably connected with the + name of the latter—the prison-kingdom of Elba! North of us extended + the rugged mountains of Carrarra—that renowned range whence has + sprung many a form of almost breathing beauty, and where yet slumber, + perhaps, in the unhewn marble, the god-like shapes of an age of art, more + glorious than any the world has ever yet beheld! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + + <p> + *** [ By recent registers + found in Corsica, it has been determined that this island also gave birth + to the discoverer of the new world.] + </p> + <p> + The sun rose from behind the Apennines and masts and towers became visible + through the golden haze, as we approached the shore. On a flat space + between the sea and the hills, not far from the foot of Montenero, stands + Leghorn. The harbor is protected by a mole, leaving a narrow passage, + through which we entered, and after waiting two hours for the visit of the + health and police officers, we were permitted to go on shore. The first + thing that struck me, was the fine broad streets; the second, the motley + character of the population. People were hurrying about noisy and bustling—Greeks + in their red caps and capotes; grave turbaned and bearded Turks; dark + Moors; the Corsair-looking natives of Tripoli and Tunis, and seamen of + nearly every nation. At the hotel where I stayed, we had a singular + mixture of nations at dinner:—two French, two Swiss, one Genoese, + one Roman, one American and one Turk—and we were waited on by a + Tuscan and an Arab! We conversed together in four languages, all at once. + </p> + <p> + To the merchant, Leghorn is of more importance than to the traveler. Its + extensive trade, not only in the manufactures of Tuscany, but also in the + productions of the Levant, makes it important to the former, while the + latter seeks in vain for fine buildings, galleries of art, or in + interesting historical reminiscences. Through the kind attention of the + Saxon Consul, to whom I had letters, two or three days went by + delightfully. + </p> + <p> + The only place of amusement here in summer is a drive along the sea shore, + called the Ardenza, which is frequented every evening by all who can raise + a vehicle. I visited it twice with a German friend. We met one evening the + Princess Corsini, wife of the Governor of Leghorn, on horseback—a + young, but not pretty woman. The road leads out along the Mediterranean, + past an old fortress, to a large establishment for the sea bathers, where + it ends in a large ring, around which the carriages pass and re-pass, + until sunset has gone out over the sea, when they return to the city in a + mad gallop, or as fast as the lean horses can draw them. + </p> + <p> + In driving around, we met two or three carriages of Turks, in one of which + I saw a woman of Tunis, with a curious gilded head-dress, eighteen inches + in height. + </p> + <p> + I saw one night a Turkish funeral. It passed me in one of the outer + streets, on its way to the Turkish burying ground. Those following the + coffin, which was covered with a heavy black pall, wore white turbans and + long white robes—the mourning color of the Turks. Torches were borne + by attendants, and the whole company passed on at a quick pace. Seen thus + by night, it had a strange and spectral appearance. + </p> + <p> + There is another spectacle here which was exceedingly revolting to me. The + condemned criminals, chained two and two, are kept at work through the + city, cleaning the streets. They are dressed in coarse garments of a dirty + red color, with the name of the crime for which they were convicted, + painted on the back. I shuddered to see so many marked with the words—"<i>omicidio + premeditato</i>." All day they are thus engaged, exposed to the scorn and + contumely of the crowd, and at night dragged away to be incarcerated in + damp, unwholesome dungeons, excavated under the public thoroughfares. + </p> + <p> + The employment of criminals in this way is common in Italy. Two days after + crossing St. Gothard, we saw a company of abject-looking creatures, eating + their dinner by the road-side, near Bellinzona. One of them had a small + basket of articles of cotton and linen, and as he rose up to offer them to + us, I was startled by the clank of fetters. They were all employed to + labor on the road. + </p> + <p> + On going down to the wharf in Leghorn, in the morning, two or three days + ago, I found F—— and B—— just stepping on shore + from the steamboat, tired enough of the discomforts of the voyage, yet + anxious to set out for Florence as soon as possible. After we had shaken + off the crowd of porters, pedlars and vetturini, and taken a hasty + breakfast at the <i>Cafe Americano</i>, we went to the Police Office to + get our passports, and had the satisfaction of paying two francs for + permission to proceed to Florence. The weather had changed since the + preceding day, and the sirocco-wind which blows over from the coast of + Africa, filled the streets with clouds of dust, which made walking very + unpleasant. The clear blue sky had vanished, and a leaden cloud hung low + on the Mediterranean, hiding the shores of Corsica and the rooky isles of + Gorgona and Capraja. + </p> + <p> + The country between Leghorn and Pisa, is a flat marsh, intersected in + several places by canals to carry off the stagnant water which renders + this district so unhealthy. It is said that the entire plain between the + mountains of Carrarra and the hills back of Leghorn has been gradually + formed by the deposits of the Arno and the receding of the Mediterranean, + which is so shallow along the whole coast, that large vessels have to + anchor several miles out. As we approached Pisa over the level marsh, I + could see the dome of the Cathedral and the Leaning Tower rising above the + gardens and groves which surround it. + </p> + <p> + Our baggage underwent another examination at the gate, where we were again + assailed by the vetturini, one of whom hung on us like a leech till we + reached a hotel, and there was finally no way of shaking him off except by + engaging him to take us to Florence. The bargain having been concluded, we + had still a few hours left and set off to hunt the Cathedral. We found it + on an open square near the outer wall, and quite remote from the main part + of the town. Emerging from the narrow and winding street, one takes in et + a glance the Baptistery, the Campo Santo, the noble Cathedral and the + Leaning Tower—forming altogether a view rarely surpassed in Europe + for architectural effect. But the square is melancholy and deserted, and + rank, untrampled grass fills the crevices of its marble pavement. + </p> + <p> + I was surprised at the beauty of the Leaning Tower. Instead of all old, + black, crumbling fabric, as I always supposed, it is a light, airy, + elegant structure, of white marble, and its declension, which is + interesting as a work of art (or accident,) is at the same time pleasing + from its novelty. There have been many conjectures as to the cause of this + deviation, which is upwards of fourteen feet from the perpendicular; it is + now generally believed that the earth having sunk when the building was + half finished, it was continued by the architects in the same angle. The + upper gallery, which is smaller than the others, shows a very perceptible + inclination back towards the perpendicular, as if in some degree to + counterbalance the deviation of the other part. There are eight galleries + in all, supported by marble pillars, but the inside of the Tower is hollow + to the very top. + </p> + <p> + We ascended by the same stairs which were trodden so often by Galileo in + going up to make his astronomical observations; in climbing spirally + around the hollow cylinder in the dark, it was easy to tell on which side + of the Tower we were, from the proportionate steepness of the staircase. + There is a fine view from the top, embracing the whole plain as far as + Leghorn on one side, with its gardens and grain fields spread out like a + vast map. In a valley of the Carrarrese Mountains to the north, we could + see the little town of Lucca, much frequented at this season on account of + its baths; the blue summits of the Appenines shut in the view to the east. + In walking through the city I noticed two other towers, which had nearly + as great a deviation from the perpendicular. We met a person who had the + key of the Baptistery, which he opened for us. Two ancient columns covered + with rich sculpture form the doorway, and the dome is supported by massive + pillars of the red marble of Elba. The baptismal font is of the purest + Parian marble. The most remarkable thing was the celebrated musical echo. + Our cicerone stationed himself at the side of the font and sang a few + notes. After a moment's pause they were repeated aloft in the dome, but + with a sound of divine sweetness—as clear and pure as the clang of a + crystal bell. Another pause—and we heard them again, higher, fainter + and sweeter, followed by a dying note, as if they were fading far away + into heaven. It seemed as if an angel lingered in the temple, echoing with + his melodious lips the common harmonies of earth. Even thus does the music + of good deeds, hardly noted in our grosser atmosphere, awake a divine echo + in the far world of spirit. + </p> + <p> + The Campo Santo, on the north side of the Cathedral, was, until lately, + the cemetery of the city; the space enclosed within its marble galleries + is filled to the depth of eight or ten feet, with earth from the Holy + Land. The vessels which carried the knights of Tuscany to Palestine were + filled at Joppa, on returning, with this earth as ballast, and on arriving + at Pisa it was deposited in the Cemetery. It has the peculiar property of + decomposing all human bodies, in the space of two days. A colonnade of + marble encloses it, with windows of the most exquisite sculpture opening + on the inside. They reminded me of the beautiful Gothic oriels of Melrose. + At each end are two fine, green cypresses, which thrive remarkably in the + soil of Palestine. The dust of a German emperor, among others, rests in + this consecrated ground. There are other fine churches in Pisa, but the + four buildings I have mentioned, are the principal objects of interest. + The tower where Count Ugolino and his sons were starved to death by the + citizens of Pisa, who locked them up and threw the keys into the Arno, has + lately been destroyed. + </p> + <p> + An Italian gentleman having made a bargain in the meantime with our + vetturino, we found every thing ready on returning to the hotel. On the + outside of the town we mounted into the vehicle, a rickety-looking + concern, and as it commenced raining, I was afraid we would have a bad + night of it. After a great deal of bargaining, the vetturino agreed to + take us to Florence that night for five francs a piece, provided one + person would sit on the outside with the driver. I accordingly mounted on + front, protected by a blouse and umbrella, for it was beginning to rain + dismally. The miserable, bare-boned horses were fastened with rope-traces, + and the vetturino having taken the rope-lines in his hand, gave a flourish + with his whip; one old horse tumbled nearly to the ground, but he jerked + him up again and we rattled off. + </p> + <p> + After riding ten miles in this way, it became so wet and dreary, that I + was fain to give the driver two francs extra, for the privilege of an + inside seat. Our Italian companion was agreeable and talkative, but as we + were still ignorant of the language, I managed to hold a scanty + conversation with him in French. He seemed delighted to learn that we were + from America; his polite reserve gave place to a friendly familiarity and + he was loud in his praises of the Americans. I asked him why it was that + he and the Italians generally, were so friendly towards us. "I hardly + know," he answered; "you are so different from any other nation; and then, + too, you have so much sincerity!" + </p> + <p> + The Appenines were wreathed and hidden in thick mist, and the prospect + over the flat cornfields bordering the road was not particularly + interesting. We had made about one-third of the way as night set in, when + on ascending a hill soon after dark, F—— happened to look out, + and saw one of the axles bent and nearly broken off. we were obliged to + get out and walk through the mud to the next village, when after two + hours' delay, the vetturino came along with another carriage. Of the rest + of the way to Florence, I cannot say much. Cramped up in the narrow + vehicle, we jolted along in the dark, rumbling now and then through some + silent village, where lamps were burning before the solitary shrines. + Sometimes a blinding light crossed the road, where we saw the tile-makers + sitting in the red glare of their kilns, and often the black boughs of + trees were painted momentarily on the cloudy sky. If the jolting carriage + had even permitted sleep, the horrid cries of the vetturino, urging on his + horses, would have prevented it; and I decided, while trying to relieve my + aching limbs, that three days' walking in sun and sand was preferable to + one night of such travel. + </p> + <p> + Finally about four o'clock in the morning the carriage stopped; my Italian + friend awoke and demanded the cause. "Signor," said the vetturino, "we are + in Florence!" I blessed the man, and the city too. The good-humored + officer looked at our passports and passed our baggage without + examination; we gave the gatekeeper a paul and he admitted us. The + carriage rolled through the dark, silent streets—passed a public + square—came out on the Arno—crossed and entered the city again—and + finally stopped at a hotel. The master of the "Lione Bianco" came down in + an undress to receive us, and we shut the growing dawn out of our rooms to + steal that repose from the day which the night had not given. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0034" id="link2HCH0034"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIV. — FLORENCE AND ITS GALLERIES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Sept. 11.</i>—Our situation here is as agreeable as we could well + desire. We have three large and handsomely furnished rooms, in the centre + of the city, for which we pay Signor Lazzeri, a wealthy goldsmith, ten + scudo per month—a scudo being a trifle more than an American dollar. + We live at the <i>Cafès</i> and <i>Trattone</i> very conveniently for + twenty-five cents a day, enjoying moreover, at our dinner in the Trattoria + del Cacciatore, the company of several American artists with whom we have + become acquainted. The day after our arrival we met at the table d'hote of + the "Lione Bianco," Dr. Boardman of New York, through whose assistance we + obtained our present lodgings. There are at present ten or twelve American + artists in Florence, and we promise ourselves much pleasure and profit + from their acquaintance. B—— and I are so charmed with the + place and the beautiful Tuscan dialect, that we shall endeavor to spend + three or four months here. F—— returns to Germany in two + weeks, to attend the winter term of the University at his favorite + Heidelberg. + </p> + <p> + Our first walk in Florence was to the Royal Gallery—we wished to see + the "goddess living in stone" without delay. Crossing the neighboring <i>Piazza + del Granduca</i>, we passed Michael Angelo's colossal statue of David, and + an open gallery containing, besides some antiques, the master-piece of + John of Bologna. The palace of the <i>Uffizii</i>, fronting on the Arno, + extends along both sides of an avenue running back to the Palazzo Vecchio. + We entered the portico which passes around under the great building, and + after ascending three or four flights of steps, came into a long hall, + filled with paintings and ancient statuary. Towards the end of this, a + door opened into the Tribune—that celebrated room, unsurpassed by + any in the world for the number and value of the gems it contains. I + pushed aside a crimson curtain and stood in the presence of the Venus. + </p> + <p> + It may be considered heresy, but I confess I did not at first go into + raptures, nor perceive any traces of superhuman beauty. The predominant + feeling, if I may so express it, was satisfaction; the eye dwells on its + faultless outline with a gratified sense, that nothing is wanting to + render it perfect. It is the ideal of a woman's form—a faultless + standard by which all beauty may be measured, but without striking + expression, except in the modest and graceful position of the limbs. The + face, though regular, is not handsome, and the body appears small, being + but five feet in height, which, I think, is a little below the average + stature of women. On each side, as if to heighten its elegance by contrast + with rude and unrefined nature, are the statues of the Wrestlers, and the + slave listening to the conspiracy of Catiline, called also The Whetter. + </p> + <p> + As if to correspond with the value of the works it holds, the Tribune is + paved with precious marbles and the ceiling studded with polished + mother-of-pearl. A dim and subdued light fills the hall, which throws over + the mind that half-dreamy tone necessary to the full enjoyment of such + objects. On each side of the Venus de Medici hangs a Venus by Titian, the + size of life, and painted in that rich and gorgeous style of coloring + which has been so often and vainly attempted since his time. + </p> + <p> + Here are six of Raphael's best preserved paintings. I prefer the "St. John + in the Desert" to any other picture in the Tribune. His glorious form, in + the fair proportions of ripening boyhood—the grace of his attitude, + with the arm lifted eloquently on high—the divine inspiration which + illumines his young features—chain the step irresistibly before it. + It is one of those triumphs of the pencil which few but Raphael have + accomplished—the painting of <i>spirit</i> in its loftiest and + purest form. Near it hangs the Fornarina, which he seems to have painted + in as deep a love as he entertained for the original. The face is modest + and beautiful, and filled with an expression of ardent and tender + attachment. I never tire looking upon either of these two. + </p> + <p> + Let me not forget, while we are in this peerless hall, to point out + Guercino's Samian Sybil. It is a glorious work. With her hands clasped + over her volume, she is looking up with a face full of deep and expressive + sadness. A picturesque turban is twined around her head, and bands of + pearls gleam amidst her rich, dark brown tresses. Her face bears the + softness of dawning womanhood, and nearly answers my ideal of female + beauty. The same artist has another fine picture here—a sleeping + Endymion. The mantle has fallen from his shoulders, as he reclines asleep, + with his head on his hand, and his crook beside him. The silver crescent + of Dian looks over his shoulder from the sky behind, and no wonder if she + should become enamored, for a lovelier shepherd has not been seen since + that of King Admetus went back to drive his chariot in the heavens. + </p> + <p> + The "Drunken Bacchus" of Michael Angelo is greatly admired, and indeed it + might pass for a relic of the palmiest times of Grecian art. The face, + amidst its half-vacant, sensual expression, shows traces of its immortal + origin, and there is still an air of dignity preserved in the swagger of + his beautiful form. It is, in a word, the ancient idea of <i>a drunken god</i>. + It may be doubted whether the artist's talents might not have been + employed better than in ennobling intoxication. If he had represented + Bacchus as he really is—degraded even below the level of humanity—it + might be more beneficial to the mind, though less beautiful to the eye. + However, this is a question on which artists and moralists cannot agree. + Perhaps, too, the rich blood of the Falernian grape produced a more + godlike delirium than the vulgar brandy which oversets the moderns! + </p> + <p> + At one end of the gallery is a fine copy in marble of the Laocoon, by + Bandinelli, one of the rivals of Michael Angelo. When it was finished, the + former boasted it was better than the original, to which Michael made the + apt reply: "It is foolish for those who walk in the footsteps of others, + to say they go before them!" + </p> + <p> + Let us enter the hall of Niobe. One starts back on seeing the many figures + in the attitude of flight, for they seem at first about to spring from + their pedestals. At the head of the room stands the afflicted mother, + bending over the youngest daughter who clings to her knees, with an + upturned countenance of deep and imploring agony. In vain! the shafts of + Apollo fall thick, and she will soon be childless. No wonder the strength + of that woe depicted on her countenance should change her into stone. One + of her sons—a beautiful, boyish form,—is lying on his back, + just expiring, with the chill langour of death creeping over his limbs. We + seem to hear the quick whistling of the arrows, and look involuntarily + into the air to see the hovering figure of the avenging god. In a chamber + near is kept the head of a faun, made by Michael Angelo, at the age of + fourteen, in the garden of Lorenzo de Medici, from a piece of marble given + him by the workmen. + </p> + <p> + The portraits of the painters are more than usually interesting. Every + countenance is full of character. There is the pale, enthusiastic face of + Raphael, the stern vigor of Titian, the majesty and dignity of Leonardo da + Vinci, and the fresh beauty of Angelica Kauffmann. I liked best the + romantic head of Raphael Mengs. In one of the rooms there is a portrait of + Alfieri, with an autograph sonnet of his own on the back of it. The house + in which he lived and died, is on the north bank of the Arno, near the + Ponte Caraja, and his ashes rest in Santa Croce. + </p> + <p> + Italy still remains the home of art, and it is but just she should keep + these treasures, though the age that brought them forth has passed away. + They are her only support now; her people are dependent for their + subsistence on the glory of the past. The spirits of the old painters, + living still on their canvass, earn from year to year the bread of an + indigent and oppressed people. This ought to silence those utilitarians at + home, who oppose the cultivation of the fine arts, on the ground of their + being useless luxuries. Let them look to Italy, where a picture by Raphael + or Correggio is a rich legacy for a whole city. Nothing is useless that + gratifies that perception of beauty, which is at once the most delicate + and the most intense of our mental sensations, binding us by an + unconscious link nearer to nature and to Him, whose every thought is born + of Beauty, Truth and Love. I envy not the one who looks with a cold and + indifferent spirit on these immortal creations of the old masters—these + poems written in marble and on the canvass. They who oppose every thing + which can refine and spiritualize the nature of man, by binding him down + to the cares of the work-day world alone, cheat life of half its glory. + </p> + <p> + The eighth of this month was the anniversary of the birth of the Virgin, + and the celebration, if such it might be called, commenced the evening + before, It is the custom, and Heaven only knows how it originated, for the + people of the lower class to go through the streets in a company, blowing + little penny whistles. We were walking that night in the direction of the + Duomo, when we met a band of these men, blowing with all their might on + the shrill whistles, so that the whole neighborhood resounded with one + continual, piercing, ear-splitting shriek. They marched in a kind of quick + trot through the streets, followed by a crowd of boys, and varying the + noise occasionally by shouts and howls of the most horrible character. + They paraded through all the principal streets of the city, which for an + hour sent up such an agonizing scream that you might have fancied it an + enormous monster, expiring in great torment. The people seemed to take the + whole thing as a matter of course, but it was to us a novel manner of + ushering in a religious festival. + </p> + <p> + The sky was clear and blue, as it always is in this Italian paradise, when + we left Florence a few days ago for Fiesole. In spite of many virtuous + efforts to rise early, it was nine o'clock before we left the Porta San + Gallo, with its triumphal arch to the Emperor Francis, striding the road + to Bologna. We passed through the public walk at this end of the city, and + followed the road to Fiesole along the dried-up bed of a mountain torrent. + The dwellings of the Florentine nobility occupy the whole slope, + surrounded with rich and lovely gardens. The mountain and plain are both + covered with luxuriant olive orchards, whose foliage of silver gray gives + the scene the look of a moonlight landscape. + </p> + <p> + At the base of the mountain of Fiesole we passed one of the summer palaces + of Lorenzo the Magnificent, and a little distance beyond, took a foot-path + overshadowed by magnificent cypresses, between whose dark trunks we looked + down on the lovely Val d'Arno. But I will reserve all description of the + view till we arrive at the summit. + </p> + <p> + The modern village of Fiesole occupies the site of an ancient city, + generally supposed to be of Etrurian origin. Just above, on one of the + peaks of the mountain, stands the Acropolis, formerly used as a fortress, + but now untenanted save by a few monks. From the side of its walls, + beneath the shade of a few cypresses, there is a magnificent view of the + whole of Val d'Arno, with Florence—the gem of Italy—in the + centre. Stand with me a moment on the height, and let us gaze on this + grand panorama, around which the Apennines stretch with a majestic sweep, + wrapped in a robe of purple air, through which shimmer the villas and + villages on their sides! The lovely vale lies below us in its garb of + olive groves, among which beautiful villas are sprinkled as plentifully as + white anemones in the woods of May. Florence lies in front of us, the + magnificent cupola of the Duomo crowning its clustered palaces. We see the + airy tower of the Palazzo Vecchio—the new spire of Santa Croce—and + the long front of the Palazzo Pitti, with the dark foliage of the Boboli + Gardens behind. Beyond, far to the south, are the summits of the mountains + near Siena. We can trace the sandy bed of the Arno down the valley till it + disappears at the foot of the Lower Apennines, which mingle in the + distance with the mountains of Carrara. + </p> + <p> + Galileo was wont to make observations "at evening from the top of + Fiesole," and the square tower of the old church is still pointed out as + the spot. Many a night did he ascend to its projecting terrace, and watch + the stars as they rolled around through the clearest heaven to which a + philosopher ever looked up. + </p> + <p> + We passed through an orchard of fig trees, and vines laden with beautiful + purple and golden clusters, and in a few minutes reached the remains of an + amphitheatre, in a little nook on the mountain side. This was a work of + Roman construction, as its form indicates. Three or four ranges of seats + alone, are laid bare, and these have only been discovered within a few + years. A few steps further we came to a sort of cavern, overhung with wild + fig-trees. After creeping in at the entrance, we found ourselves in an + oval chamber, tall enough to admit of our standing upright, and rudely but + very strongly built. This was one of the dens in which the wild beasts + were kept; they were fed by a hole in the top, now closed up. This cell + communicates with four or five others, by apertures broken in the walls. I + stepped into one, and could see in the dim light, that it was exactly + similar to the first, and opened into another beyond. + </p> + <p> + Further down the mountain we found the ancient wall of the city, without + doubt of Etrurian origin. It is of immense blocks of stone, and extends + more or less dilapidated around the whole brow of the mountain. In one + place there stands a solitary gateway, of large stones, which looks as if + it might have been one of the first attempts at using the principle of the + arch. These ruins are all gray and ivied, and it startles one to think + what a history Earth has lived through since their foundations were laid! + </p> + <p> + We sat all the afternoon under the cypress trees and looked down on the + lovely valley, practising Italian sometimes with two young Florentines who + came up to enjoy the "<i>bell'aria</i>" of Fiesole. Descending as sunset + drew on, we reached the Porta San Gallo, as the people of Florence were + issuing forth to their evening promenade. + </p> + <p> + One of my first visits was to the church of Santa Croce. This is one of + the oldest in Florence, venerated alike by foreigners and citizens, for + the illustrious dead whose remains it holds. It is a plain, gloomy pile, + the front of which is still unfinished, though at the base, one sees that + it was originally designed to be covered with black marble. On entering + the door we first saw the tomb of Michael Angelo. Around the marble + sarcophagus which contains his ashes are three mourning figures, + representing Sculpture, Painting and Architecture, and his bust stands + above—a rough, stern countenance, like a man of vast but unrefined + mind. Further on are the tombs of Alfieri and Machiavelli and the colossal + cenotaph lately erected to Dante. Opposite reposes Galileo. What a world + of renown in these few names! It makes one venerate the majesty of his + race, to stand beside the dust of such lofty spirits. + </p> + <p> + Dante's monument may be said to be only erected to his memory; he sleeps + at the place of his exile, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Like Scipio, buried by the upbraiding shore!" +</pre> + <p> + It is the work of Ricci, a Florentine artist, and has been placed there + within a few years. The colossal figure of Poetry weeping over the empty + urn, might better express the regret of Florence in being deprived of his + ashes. The figure of Dante himself, seated above, is grand and majestic; + his head is inclined as if in meditation, and his features bear the + expression of sublime thought. Were this figure placed there alone, on a + simple and massive pedestal, it would be more in keeping with his fame + than the lumbering heaviness of the present monument. + </p> + <p> + Machiavelli's tomb is adorned with a female figure representing History, + bearing his portrait. The inscription, which seems to be somewhat + exaggerated, is: <i>tanto nomini nullum par elogium</i>. Near lies + Alfieri, the "prince of tragedy," as he is called by the Italians. In his + life he was fond of wandering among the tombs of Santa Croce, and it is + said that there the first desire and presentiment of his future glory + stirred within his breast. Now he slumbers among them, not the least + honored name of that immortal company. + </p> + <p> + Galileo's tomb is adorned with his bust. His face is calm and dignified, + and he holds appropriately in his hands, a globe and telescope. Aretino, + the historian, lies on his tomb with a copy of his works clasped to his + breast; above that of Lanzi, the historian of painting, there is a + beautiful fresco of the angel of fame; and opposite to him is the scholar + Lamio. The most beautiful monument in the church is that of a Polish + princess, in the transept. She is lying on the bier, her features settled + in the repose of death, and her thin, pale hands clasped across her + breast. The countenance wears that half-smile, "so coldly sweet and sadly + fair," which so often throws a beauty over the face of the dead, and the + light pall reveals the fixed yet graceful outline of the form. + </p> + <p> + In that part of the city, which lies on the south bank of the Arno, is the + palace of the Grand Duke, known by the name of the Palazzo Pitti, from a + Florentine noble of that name, by whom it was first built. It is a very + large, imposing pile, preserving an air of lightness in spite of the + rough, heavy stones of which it is built. It is another example of a + magnificent failure. The Marquis Strozzi, having built a palace which was + universally admired for its beauty, (which stands yet, a model of chaste + and massive elegance,) his rival, the Marquis Pitti, made the proud boast + that he would build a palace, in the court-yard of which could bo placed + that of Strozzi. These are actually the dimensions of the court-yard; but + in building the palace, although he was liberally assisted by the + Florentine people, he ruined himself, and his magnificent residence passed + into other hands, while that of Strozzi is inhabited by his descendants to + this very day. + </p> + <p> + The gallery of the Palazzo Pitti is one of the finest in Europe. It + contains six or seven hundred paintings, selected from the best works of + the Italian masters. By the praiseworthy liberality of the Duke, they are + open to the public, six hours every day, and the rooms are thronged with + artists of all nations. + </p> + <p> + Among Titian's works, there is his celebrated "Bella," a half-length + figure of a young woman. It is a masterpiece of warm and brilliant + coloring, without any decided expression. The countenance is that of + vague, undefined thought, as of one who knew as yet nothing of the + realities of life. In another room is his Magdalen, a large, voluptuous + form, with her brown hair falling like a veil over her shoulders and + breast, but in her upturned countenance one can sooner read a prayer for + an absent lover than repentance for sins she has committed. + </p> + <p> + What could excel in beauty the <i>Madonna della Sedia</i> of Raphael? It + is another of those works of that divine artist, on which we gaze and gaze + with a never-tiring enjoyment of its angelic beauty. To my eye it is + faultless; I could not wish a single outline of form, a single shade of + color changed. Like his unrivalled Madonna in the Dresden Gallery, its + beauty is spiritual as well as earthly; and while gazing on the glorious + countenance of the Jesus-child, I feel an impulse I can scarcely explain—a + longing to tear it from the canvas as if it were a breathing form, and + clasp it to my heart in a glow of passionate love. What a sublime + inspiration Raphael must have felt when he painted it! Judging from its + effect on the beholder, I can conceive of no higher mental excitement than + that required to create it. + </p> + <p> + Here are also some of the finest and best preserved pictures of Salvator + Rosa, and his portrait—a wild head, full of spirit and genius. + Besides several landscapes in his savage and stormy style, there are two + large sea-views, in which the atmosphere is of a deep and exquisite + softness, without impairing the strength and boldness of the composition. + "A Battle Scene," is terrible. Hundreds of combatants are met in the shock + and struggle of conflict. Horses, mailed knights, vassals are mixed + together in wild confusion; banners are waving and lances flashing amid + the dust and smoke, while the wounded and dying are trodden under foot in + darkness and blood. I now first begin to comprehend the power and + sublimity of his genius. From the wildness and gloom of his pictures, he + might almost be called the Byron of painters. + </p> + <p> + There is a small group of the "Fates," by Michael Angelo, which is one of + the best of the few pictures which remain of him. As is well known, he + disliked the art, saying it was only fit for women. This picture shows, + however, how much higher he might have gone, had he been so inclined. The + three weird sisters are ghostly and awful—the one who stands behind, + holding the distaff, almost frightful. She who stands ready to cut the + thread as it is spun out, has a slight trace of pity on her fixed and + unearthly lineaments. It is a faithful embodiment of the old Greek idea of + the Fates. I have wondered why some artist has not attempted the subject + in a different way. In the Northern Mythology they are represented as wild + maidens, armed with swords and mounted on fiery coursers. Why might they + not also be pictured as angels, with countenances of a sublime and + mysterious beauty—one all radiant with hope and promise of glory, + and one with the token of a better future mingled with the sadness with + which it severs the links of life? + </p> + <p> + There are many, many other splendid works in this collection, but it is + unnecessary to mention them. I have only endeavored, by taking a few of + the best known, to give some idea of them as they appear to me. There are + hundreds of pictures here, which, though gems in themselves, are by + masters who are rarely heard of in America, and it would be of little + interest to go through the Gallery, describing it in guide-book fashion. + Indeed, to describe galleries, however rich and renowned they may be, is + in general a work of so much difficulty, that I know not whether the + writer or the reader is made most tired thereby. + </p> + <p> + This collection possesses also the celebrated statue of Venus, by Canova. + She stands in the centre of a little apartment, filled with the most + delicate and graceful works of painting. Although undoubtedly a figure of + great beauty, it by no means struck me as possessing that exquisite and + classic perfection which has been ascribed to it. The Venus de Medici far + surpasses it. The head is larger in proportion to the size of the body, + than that of the latter, but has not the same modest, virgin expression. + The arm wrapped in the robe which she is pressing to her breast, is finely + executed, but the fingers of the other hand are bad—looking, as my + friend said, as if the ends were <i>whittled</i> off! The body is, + however, of fine proportions, though, taken as a whole, the statue is + inferior to many other of Canova's works. + </p> + <p> + Occupying all the hill back of the Pitti Palace, are the Boboli Gardens, + three times a week the great resort of the Florentines. They are said to + be the most beautiful gardens in Italy. Numberless paths, diverging from a + magnificent amphitheatre in the old Roman style, opposite the court-yard, + lend either in long flights of steps and terraces, or gentle windings + among beds sweet with roses, to the summit. Long avenues, entirely arched + and interwoven with the thick foliage of the laurel, which here grows to a + tree, stretch along the slopes or wind in the woods through thickets of + the fragrant bay. Parterres, rich with flowers and shrubbery, alternate + with delightful groves of the Italian pine, acacia and laurel-leaved oak, + and along the hillside, gleaming among the foliage, are placed statues of + marble, some of which are from the chisels of Michael Angelo and + Bandinelli. In one part there is a little sheet of water, with an island + of orange-trees in the centre, from which a broad avenue of cypresses and + statues leads to the very summit of the hill. + </p> + <p> + We often go there to watch the sun set over Florence and the vale of the + Arno. The palace lies directly below, and a clump of pine-trees on the + hillside, that stand out in bold relief on the glowing sky, makes the + foreground to one of the loveliest pictures this side of the Atlantic. I + saw one afternoon the Grand Duke and his family get into their carriage to + drive out. One of the little dukes, who seemed a mischievous imp, ran out + on a projection of the portico, where considerable persuasion had to be + used to induce him to jump into the arms of his royal papa. I turned from + these titled infants to watch a group of beautiful American children + playing, for my attention was drawn to them by the sound of familiar + words, and I learned afterwards they were the children of the sculptor + Powers. I contrasted involuntarily the destinies of each;—one to the + enjoyment and proud energy of freedom, and one to the confining and + vitiating atmosphere of a court. The merry voices of the latter, as they + played on the grass, came to my ears most gratefully. There is nothing so + sweet as to hear one's native tongue in a foreign land from the lips of + children! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0035" id="link2HCH0035"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXV. — A PILGRIMAGE TO VALLOMBROSA. + </h2> + <p> + A pilgrimage to Vallombrosa!—in sooth it has a romantic sound. The + phrase calls up images of rosaries, and crosses, and shaven-headed friars. + Had we lived in the olden days, such things might verily have accompanied + our journey to that holy monastery. We might then have gone barefoot, + saying prayers as we toiled along the banks of the Arno and up the steep + Appenines, as did Benevenuto Cellini, before he poured the melted bronze + into the mould of his immortal Perseus. But we are pilgrims to the shrines + of Art and Genius; the dwelling-places of great minds are our sanctuaries. + The mean dwelling, in which a poet has battled down poverty with the + ecstacy of his mighty conceptions, and the dungeon in which a persecuted + philosopher has languished, are to us sacred; we turn aside from the + palaces of kings and the battle-fields of conquerors, to visit them. The + famed miracles of San Giovanni Gualberto added little, in our eyes, to the + interest of Vallombrosa, but there were reverence and inspiration in the + names of Dante, Milton, and Ariosto. + </p> + <p> + We left Florence early, taking the way that leads from the Porta della + Croce, up the north bank of the Arno. It was a bright morning, but there + was a shade of vapor on the hills, which a practised eye might have taken + as a prognostic of the rain that too soon came on. Fiesole, with its tower + and Acropolis, stood out brightly from the blue background, and the hill + of San Miniato lay with its cypress groves in the softest morning light. + The <i>Contadini</i> were driving into the city in their basket wagons, + and there were some fair young faces among them, that made us think + Italian beauty was not altogether in the imagination. + </p> + <p> + After walking three or four miles, we entered the Appenines, keeping along + the side of the Arno, whose bed is more than half dried up from the long + summer heats. The mountain sides were covered with vineyards, glowing with + their wealth of white and purple grapes, but the summits were naked and + barren. We passed through the little town of Ponte Sieve, at the entrance + of a romantic valley, where our view of the Arno was made more interesting + by the lofty range of the Appenines, amid whose forests we could see the + white front of the monastery of Vallombrosa. But the clouds sank low and + hid it from sight, and the rain came on so hard that we were obliged to + take shelter occasionally in the cottages by the wayside. In one of these + we made a dinner of the hard, black bread of the country, rendered + palatable by the addition of mountain cheese and some chips of an antique + Bologna sausage. We were much amused in conversing with the simple hosts + and their shy, gipsy-like children, one of whom, a dark-eyed, curly-haired + boy, bore the name of Raphael. We also became acquainted with a shoemaker + and his family, who owned a little olive orchard and vineyard, which they + said produced enough to support them. Wishing to know much a family of six + consumed in a year, we inquired the yield of their property. They + answered, twenty small barrels of wine, and ten of oil. It was nearly + sunset when we reached Pellago, and the wet walk and coarse fare we were + obliged to take on the road, well qualified us to enjoy the excellent + supper the pleasant landlady gave us. + </p> + <p> + This little town is among the Appenines, at the foot of the magnificent + mountain of Vallombrosa. What a blessing it was for Milton, that he saw + its loveliness before his eyes closed on this beautiful earth, and gained + from it another hue in which to dip his pencil, when he painted the bliss + of Eden! I watched the hills all day as we approached them, and thought + how often his eyes had rested on their outlines, and how he had carried + their forms in his memory for many a sunless year. The banished Dante, + too, had trodden them, flying from his ungrateful country; and many + another, whose genius has made him a beacon in the dark sea of the world's + history. It is one of those places where the enjoyment is all romance, and + the blood thrills as we gaze upon it. + </p> + <p> + We started early next morning, crossed the ravine, and took the well-paved + way to the monastery along the mountain side. The stones are worn smooth + by the sleds in which ladies and provisions are conveyed up, drawn by the + beautiful white Tuscan oxen. The hills are covered with luxuriant chesnut + and oak trees, of those picturesque forms which they only wear in Italy: + one wild dell in particular is much resorted to by painters for the + ready-made foregrounds it supplies. Further on, we passed the <i>Paterno</i>, + a rich farm belonging to the Monks. The vines which hung from tree to + tree, were almost breaking beneath clusters as heavy and rich as those + which the children of Israel bore on staves from the Promised Land. Of + their flavor, we can say, from experience, they were worthy to have grown + in Paradise. We then entered a deep dell of the mountain, where little + shepherd girls were sitting on the rocks tending their sheep and spinning + with their fingers from a distaff, in the same manner, doubtless, as the + Roman shepherdesses two thousand years ago. Gnarled, gray olive trees, + centuries old, grew upon the bare soil, and a little rill fell in many a + tiny cataract down the glen. By a mill, in one of the coolest and wildest + nooks I ever saw, two of us acted the part of water-spirits under one of + these, to the great astonishment of four peasants, who watched us from a + distance. + </p> + <p> + Beyond, our road led through forests of chesnut and oak, and a broad view + of mountain and vale lay below us. We asked a peasant boy we met, how much + land the Monks of Vallombrosa possessed. "<i>All that you see</i>!" was + the reply. The dominion of the good fathers reached once even to the gates + of Florence. At length, about noon, we emerged from the woods into a broad + avenue leading across a lawn, at whose extremity stood the massivs + buildings of the monastery. On a rock that towered above it, was the <i>Paradisino</i>, + beyond which rose the mountain, covered with forests— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Shade above shade, a woody theatre. + Of stateliest view"— +</pre> + <p> + as Milton describes it. We were met at the entrance by a young monk in + cowl and cassock, to whom we applied for permission to stay till the next + day, which was immediately given. Brother Placido (for that was his name) + then asked us if we would not have dinner. We replied that our appetites + were none the worse for climbing the mountain; and in half an hour sat + down to a dinner, the like of which we had not seen for a long time. + Verily, thought I, it must be a pleasant thing to be a monk, after all!—that + is, a monk of Vallombrosa. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we walked through a grand pine forest to the western brow + of the mountain, where a view opened which it would require a wonderful + power of the imagination for you to see in fancy, as I did in reality. + From the height where we stood, the view was uninterrupted to the + Mediterranean, a distance of more than seventy miles; a valley watered by + a brunch of the Arno swept far to the east, to the mountains near the Luke + of Thrasymene; northwestwards the hills of Carrara bordered the horizon; + the space between these wide points was filled with mountains and valleys, + all steeped in that soft blue mist which makes Italian landscapes more + like heavenly visions than realities. Florence was visible afar off, and + the current of the Arno flashed in the sun. A cool and almost chilling + wind blew constantly over the mountain, although the country below basked + in summer heat. We lay on the rocks, and let our souls luxuriate in the + lovely scene till near sunset. Brother Placido brought us supper in the + evening, with his ever-smiling countenance, and we soon after went to our + beds in the neat, plain chambers, to get rid of the unpleasant coldness. + </p> + <p> + Next morning it was damp and misty, and thick clouds rolled down the + forests towards the convent. I set out for the "Little Paradise," taking + in my way the pretty cascade which falls some fifty feet down the rocks. + The building is not now as it was when Milton lived here, having been + rebuilt within a short time. I found no one there, and satisfied my + curiosity by climbing over the wall and looking in at the windows. A + little chapel stands in a cleft of the rock below, to mark the miraculous + escape of St. John Gualberto, founder of the monastery. Being one day very + closely pursued by the Devil, he took shelter under the rock, which + immediately became soft and admitted him into it, while the fiend, unable + to stop, was precipitated over the steep. All this is related in a Latin + inscription, and we saw a large hollow in the rock near, which must have + been intended for the imprint left by his sacred person. + </p> + <p> + One of the monks told us another legend, concerning a little chapel which + stands alone on a wild part of the mountain, above a rough pile of crags, + called the "Peak of the Devil." "In the time of San Giovanni Gualberto, + the holy founder of our order," said he, "there was a young man, of a + noble family in Florence, who was so moved by the words of the saintly + father, that he forsook the world, wherein he had lived with great luxury + and dissipation, and became monk. But, after a time, being young and + tempted again by the pleasures he had renounced, he put off the sacred + garments. The holy San Giovanni warned him of the terrible danger in which + he stood, and at length the wicked young man returned. It was not a great + while, however, before he became dissatisfied, and in spite all holy + counsel, did the same thing again. But behold what happened! As he was + walking along the peak where the chapel stands, thinking nothing of his + great crime, the devil sprang suddenly from behind a rock, and catching + the young man in his arms, before he could escape, carried him with a + dreadful noise and a great red flame and smoke over the precipice, so that + he was never afterwards seen." + </p> + <p> + The church attached to the monastery is small, but very solemn and + venerable. I went several times to muse in its still, gloomy aisle, and + hear the murmuring chant of the Monks, who went through their exercises in + some of the chapels. At one time I saw them all, in long black cassocks, + march in solemn order to the chapel of St. John Gualberto, where they sang + a deep chant, which to me had something awful and sepulchral in it. Behind + the high altar I saw their black, carved chairs of polished oak, with + ponderous gilded foliants lying on the rails before them. The attendant + opened one of these, that we might see the manuscript notes, three or four + centuries old, from which they sung. + </p> + <p> + We were much amused in looking through two or three Italian books, which + were lying in the traveler's room. One of these which our friend Mr. + Tandy, of Kentucky, read, described the miracles of the patron saint with + an air of the most ridiculous solemnity. The other was a description of + the Monastery, its foundation, history, etc. In mentioning its great and + far-spread renown, the author stated then even an English poet, by the + name of Milton, had mentioned it in the following lines, which I copied + verbatim from the book: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Thick as autumnal scaves that strow she brooks + In vallombrosa, whereth Etruian Jades + Stigh over orch d'embrover!" +</pre> + <p> + In looking over the stranger's book, I found among the names of my + countrymen, that of S. V. Clevenger, the talented and lamented sculptor + who died at sea on his passage home. There were also the names of Mrs. + Shelley and the Princess Potemkin, and I saw written on the wall, the + autograph of Jean Reboul, the celebrated modern French poet. We were so + delighted with the place we would have stayed another day, but for fear of + trepassing too much on the lavish and unceasing hospitality of the good + fathers. + </p> + <p> + So in the afternoon we shook hands with Brother Placido, and turned our + backs regretfully upon one of the loneliest and loveliest spots of which + earth can boast. The sky became gradually clear as we descended, and the + mist raised itself from the distant mountains. We ran down through the + same chesnut groves, diverging a little to go through the village of Tosi, + which is very picturesque when seen from a distance, but extremely dirty + to one passing through. I stopped in the ravine below to take a sketch of + the mill and bridge, and as we sat, the line of golden sunlight rose + higher on the mountains above. On walking down the shady side of this + glen, we were enraptured with the scenery. A brilliant yet mellow glow lay + over the whole opposing height, lighting up the houses of Tosi and the + white cottages half seen among the olives, while the mountain of + Vallombrosa stretched far heavenward like a sunny painting, with only a + misty wreath floating and waving around its summit. The glossy foliage of + the chesnuts was made still brighter by the warm light, and the old olives + softened down into a silvery gray, whose contrast gave the landscape a + character of the mellowest beauty. As we wound out of the deep glen, the + broad valleys and ranges of the Appenines lay before us, forests, castles + and villages steeped in the soft, vapory blue of the Italian atmosphere, + and the current of the Arno flashing like a golden belt through the middle + of the picture. + </p> + <p> + The sun was nearly down, and the mountains just below him were of a deep + purple hue, while those that ran out to the eastward wore the most aerial + shade of blue. A few scattered clouds, floating above, soon put on the + sunset robe of orange and a band of the same soft color encircled the + western horizon. It did not reach half way to the zenith, however; the sky + above was blue, of such a depth and transparency, that to gaze upward was + like looking into eternity. Then how softly and soothingly the twilight + came on! How deep a hush sank on the chesnut glades, broken only by the + song of the cicada, chirping its "good-night carol!" The mountains, too, + how majestic they stood in their deep purple outlines! Sweet, sweet Italy! + I can feel now how the soul may cling to thee, since thou canst thus + gratify its insatiable thirst for the Beautiful. Even thy plainest scene + is clothed in hues that seem borrowed of heaven! In the twilight, more + radiant than light, and the stillness, more eloquent than music, which + sink down over the sunny beauty of thy shores, there is a silent, intense + poetry that stirs the soul through all its impassioned depths. With warm, + blissful tears filling the eyes and a heart overflowing with its own + bright fancies, I wander in the solitude and calm of such a time, and love + thee as if I were a child of thy soil! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0036" id="link2HCH0036"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVI. — WALK TO SIENA AND PRATOLINO—INCIDENTS IN + FLORENCE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>October 16.</i>—My cousin, being anxious to visit Rome, and reach + Heidelberg before the commencement of the winter semestre, set out towards + the end of September, on foot. We accompanied him as far as Siena, forty + miles distant. As I shall most probably take another road to the Eternal + City, the present is a good opportunity to say something of that romantic + old town, so famous throughout Italy for the honesty of its inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + We dined the first day, seventeen miles from Florence, at Tavenella, + where, for a meagre dinner the hostess had the assurance to ask us seven + pauls. We told her we would give but four and a half, and by assuming a + decided manner, with a plentiful use of the word "Signora" she was + persuaded to be fully satisfied with the latter sum. From a height near, + we could see the mountains coasting the Mediterranean, and shortly after, + on descending a long hill, the little town of Poggibonsi lay in the warm + afternoon light, on an eminence before us. It was soon passed with its + dusky towers, then Stagia looking desolate in its ruined and ivied walls, + and following the advice of a peasant, we stopped for the night at the inn + of Querciola. As we knew something of Italian by this time, we thought it + best to inquire the price of lodging, before entering. The <i>padrone</i> + asked if we meant to take supper also. We answered in the affirmative; + "then," said he, "you will pay half a paul (about five emits) apiece for a + bed." We passed under the swinging bunch of boughs, which in Italy is the + universal sign of an inn for the common people, and entered the bare, + smoky room appropriated to travelers. A long table, with well-worn + benches, were the only furniture; we threw our knapsacks on one end of it + and sat down, amusing ourselves while supper was preparing, in looking at + a number of grotesque charcoal drawings on the wall, which the flaring + light of our tall iron lamp revealed to us. At length the hostess, a + kindly-looking woman, with a white handkerchief folded gracefully around + her head, brought us a dish of fried eggs, which, with the coarse black + bread of the peasants and a basket full of rich grapes, made us an + excellent supper. We slept on mattresses stuffed with corn husks, placed + on square iron frames, which are the bedsteads most used in Italy. A + brightly-painted caricature of some saint or a rough crucifix, trimmed + with bay leaves, hung at the head of each bed, and under their devout + protection we enjoyed a safe and unbroken slumber. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we set out early to complete the remaining ten miles to + Siena. The only thing of interest on the road, is the ruined wall and + battlements of Castiglione, circling a high hill and looking as old as the + days of Etruria. The towers of Siena are seen at some distance, but + approaching it from this side, the traveler does not perceive its romantic + situation until he arrives. It stands on a double hill, which is very + steep on some sides; the hollow between the two peaks is occupied by the + great public square, ten or fifteen feet lower than the rest of the city. + We left our knapsacks at a <i>cafè</i> and sought the celebrated + Cathedral, which stands in the highest part of the town, forming with its + flat dome and lofty marble tower, an apex to the pyramidal mass of + buildings. + </p> + <p> + The interior is rich and elegantly perfect. Every part is of black and + white marble, in what I should call the <i>striped</i> style, which has a + singular but agreeable effect. The inside of the dome and the vaulted + ceilings of the chapels, are of blue, with golden stars; the pavement in + the centre is so precious a work that it is kept covered with boards and + only shown once a year. There are some pictures of great value in this + Cathedral; one of "The Descent of the Dove," is worthy of the best days of + Italian art. In an adjoining chamber, with frescoed walls, and a beautiful + tesselated pavement, is the library, consisting of a few huge old volumes, + which with their brown covers and brazen clasps, look as much like a + collection of flat leather trunks as any thing else. In the centre of the + room stands the mutilated group of the Grecian Graces, found in digging + the foundation of the Cathedral. The figures are still beautiful and + graceful, with that exquisite curve of outline which is such a charm in + the antique statues. Canova has only perfected the idea in his celebrated + group, which is nearly a copy of this. + </p> + <p> + We strolled through the square and then accompanied our friend to the + Roman gate, where we took leave of him for six months at least. He felt + lonely at the thought of walking in Italy without a companion, but was + cheered by the anticipation of soon reaching Rome. We watched him awhile, + walking rapidly over the hot plain towards Radicofani, and then, turning + our faces with much pleasure towards Florence, we commenced the return + walk. I must not forget to mention the delicious grapes which we bought, + begged and stole on the way. The whole country is like one vineyard—and + the people live, in a great measure, on the fruit, during this part of the + year. Would you not think it highly romantic and agreeable to sit in the + shade of a cypress grove, beside some old weather-beaten statues, looking + out over the vales of the Appenines, with a pile of white and purple + grapes beside you, the like of which can scarcely be had in America for + love or money, and which had been given you by a dark-eyed peasant girl? + If so, you may envy us, for such was exactly our situation on the morning + before reaching Florence. + </p> + <p> + Being in the Duomo, two or three days ago, I met a German traveler, who + has walked through Italy thus far, and intends continuing his journey to + Rome and Naples. His name is Von Raumer. He was well acquainted with the + present state of America, and I derived much pleasure from his intelligent + conversation. We concluded to ascend the cupola in company. Two + black-robed boys led the way; after climbing an infinite number of steps, + we reached the gallery around the foot of the dome. The glorious view of + that paradise, the vale of the Arno, shut in on all sides by mountains, + some bare and desolate, some covered with villas, gardens, and groves, lay + in soft, hazy light, with the shadows of a few light clouds moving slowly + across it. They next took us to a gallery on the inside of the dome, where + we first saw the immensity of its structure. Only from a distant view, or + in ascending it, can one really measure its grandeur. The frescoes, which + from below appear the size of life, are found to be rough and monstrous + daubs; each figure being nearly as many fathoms in length as a man is + feet. Continuing our ascent, we mounted between the inside and outside + shells of the dome. It was indeed a bold idea for Brunelleschi to raise + such a mass in air. The dome of Saint Peter's, which is scarcely as large, + was not made until a century after, and this was, therefore, the first + attempt at raising one on so grand a scale. It seems still as solid as if + just built. + </p> + <p> + There was a small door in one of the projections of the lantern, which the + sacristan told us to enter and ascend still higher. Supposing there was a + fine view to be gained, two priests, who had just come up, entered it; the + German followed, and I after him. After crawling in at the low door, we + found ourselves in a hollow pillar, little wider than our bodies. Looking + up, I saw the German's legs just above my head, while the other two were + above him, ascending by means of little iron bars fastened in the marble. + The priests were very much amused, and the German said:—"This is the + first time I ever learned chimney-sweeping!" We emerged at length into a + hollow cone, hot and dark, with a rickety ladder going up somewhere; we + could not see where. The old priest, not wishing to trust himself to it, + sent his younger brother up, and we shouted after him:—"What kind of + a view have you?" He climbed up till the cone got so narrow he could go no + further, and answered back in the darkness:—"I see nothing at all!" + Shortly after he came down, covered with dust and cobwebs, and we all + descended the chimney quicker than we went up. The old priest considered + it a good joke, and laughed till his fat sides shook. We asked the + sacristan why he sent us up, and he answered:—"To see <i>the + construction of the Church</i>!" + </p> + <p> + I attended service in the Cathedral one dark, rainy morning, and was never + before so deeply impressed with the majesty and grandeur of the mighty + edifice. The thick, cloudy atmosphere darkened still more the light which + came through the stained windows, and a solemn twilight reigned in the + long aisles. The mighty dome sprang far aloft, as if it enclosed a part of + heaven, for the light that struggled through the windows around its base, + lay in broad bars on the blue, hazy air. I would not have been surprised + at seeing a cloud float along within it. The lofty burst of the organ, + that seemed like the pantings of a monster, boomed echoing away through + dome and nave, with a chiming, metallic vibration, that shook the massive + pillars which it would defy an earthquake to rend. All was wrapped in + dusky obscurity, except where, in the side-chapels, crowns of tapers were + burning around the images. One knows not which most to admire, the genius + which could conceive, or the perseverance which could accomplish such a + work, On one side of the square, the colossal statue of the architect, + glorious old Brunelleschi, is most appropriately placed, looking up with + pride at his performance. + </p> + <p> + The sunshine and genial airs of Italy have gone, leaving instead a cold, + gloomy sky and chilling winds. The autumnal season has fairly commenced, + and I suppose I must bid adieu to the brightness which made me in love + with the land. The change has been no less sudden than unpleasant, and if, + as they say, it will continue all winter with little variation, I shall + have to seek a clearer climate. In the cold of these European winters, + there is, as I observed last year in Germany, a dull, damp chill, quite + different from the bracing, exhilarating frosts of America. It stagnates + the vital principle and leaves the limbs dull and heavy, with a lifeless + feeling which can scarcely be overcome by vigorous action. At least, such + has been my experience. + </p> + <p> + We lately made an excursion to Pratolino, on the Appenines, to see the + vintage and the celebrated colossus, by John of Bologna. Leaving Florence + in the morning, with a cool, fresh wind blowing down from the mountains, + we began ascending by the road to Bologna. We passed Fiesole with its + tower and acropolis on the right, ascending slowly, with the bold peak of + one of the loftiest Appenines on our left. The abundant fruit of the olive + was beginning to turn brown, and the grapes were all gathered in from the + vineyards, but we learned from a peasant boy that the vintage was not + finished at Pratolino. + </p> + <p> + We finally arrived at an avenue shaded with sycamores, leading to the + royal park. The vintagers were busy in the fields around, unloading the + vines of their purple tribute, and many a laugh and jest among the merry + peasants enlivened the toil. We assisted them in disposing of some fine + clusters, and then sought the "Colossus of the Appenines." He stands above + a little lake, at the head of a long mountain-slope, broken with clumps of + magnificent trees. This remarkable figure, the work of John of Bologna, + impresses one like a relic of the Titans. He is represented as + half-kneeling, supporting himself with one hand, while the other is + pressed upon the head of a dolphin, from which a little stream falls into + the lake. The height of the figure when erect, would amount to more than + sixty feet! We measured one of the feet, which is a single piece of rock, + about eight feet long; from the ground to the top of one knee is nearly + twenty feet. The limbs are formed of pieces of stone, joined together, and + the body of stone and brick. His rough hair and eyebrows, and the beard, + which reached nearly to the ground, are formed of stalactites, taken from + caves, and fastened together in a dripping and crusted mass. These hung + also from his limbs and body, and gave him the appearance of Winter in his + mail of icicles. By climbing up the rocks at his back, we entered his + body, which contains a small-sized room; it was even possible to ascend + through his neck and look out at his ear! The face is in keeping with the + figure—stern and grand, and the architect (one can hardly say + sculptor) has given to it the majestic air and sublimity of the Appenines. + But who can build up <i>an image of the Alp</i>? + </p> + <p> + We visited the factory on the estate, where wine and oil are made. The men + had just brought in a cart load of large wooden vessels, filled with + grapes, which they were mashing with heavy wooden pestles. When the grapes + were pretty well reduced to pulp and juice, they emptied them into an + enormous tub, which they told us would be covered air-tight, and left for + three or four weeks, after which the wine would be drawn off at the + bottom. They showed us also a great stone mill for grinding olives; this + estate of the Grand Duke produces five hundred barrels of wine and a + hundred and fifty of oil, every year. The former article is the universal + beverage of the laboring classes in Italy, or I might say of all classes; + it is, however, the pure blood of the grape, and although used in such + quantities, one sees little drunkenness—far less than in our own + land. + </p> + <p> + Tuscany enjoys at present a more liberal government than any other part of + Italy, and the people are, in many respects, prosperous and happy. The + Grand Duke, although enjoying almost absolute privileges, is disposed to + encourage every measure which may promote the welfare of his subjects. The + people are, indeed, very heavily taxed, but this is less severely felt by + them, than it would be by the inhabitants of colder climes. The soil + produces with little labor all that is necessary for their support; though + kept constantly in a state of comparative poverty, they appear satisfied + with their lot, and rarely look further than the necessities of the + present. In love with the delightful climate, they cherish their country, + fallen as she is, and are rarely induced to leave her. Even the wealthier + classes of the Italians travel very little; they can learn the manners and + habits of foreigners nearly as well in their own country as elsewhere, and + they prefer their own hills of olive and vine to the icy grandeur of the + Alps or the rich and garden-like beauty of England. + </p> + <p> + But, although this sweet climate, with its wealth of sunlight and balmy + airs, may enchant the traveler for awhile and make him wish at times that + his whole life might be spent amid such scenes, it exercises a most + enervating influence on those who are born to its enjoyment. It relaxes + mental and physical energy, and disposes body and mind to dreamy + inactivity. The Italians, as a race, are indolent and effeminate. Of the + moral dignity of man they have little conception. Those classes who are + engaged in active occupation seem even destitute of common honesty, + practising all kinds of deceits in the most open manner and apparently + without the least shame. The state of morals is lower than in any other + country of Europe; what little virtue exists is found among the peasants. + Many of the most sacred obligations of society are universally violated, + and as a natural consequence, the people are almost entire strangers to + that domestic happiness, which constitutes the true enjoyment of life. + </p> + <p> + This dark shadow in the moral atmosphere of Italy hangs like a curse on + her beautiful soil, weakening the sympathies of citizens of freer lands + with her fallen condition. I often feel vividly the sentiment which + Percival puts into the mouth of a Greek in slavery: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The spring may here with autumn twine + And both combined may rule the year, + And fresh-blown flowers and racy wine + In frosted clusters still be near— + Dearer the wild and snowy hills + Where hale and ruddy Freedom smiles." +</pre> + <p> + No people can ever become truly great or free, who are not virtuous. If + the soul aspires for liberty—pure and perfect liberty—it also + aspires for everything that is noble in Truth, everything that is holy in + Virtue. It is greatly to be feared that all those nervous and impatient + efforts which have been made and are still being made by the Italian + people to better their condition, will be of little avail, until they set + up a better standard of principle and make their private actions more + conformable with their ideas of political independence. + </p> + <p> + <i>Oct. 22.</i>—I attended to-day the fall races at the <i>Cascine</i>. + This is a dairy farm of the Grand Duke on the Arno, below the city; part + of it, shaded with magnificent trees, has been made into a public + promenade and drive, which extends for three miles down the river. Towards + the lower end, on a smooth green lawn, is the race-course. To-day was the + last of the season, for which the best trials had been reserved; on + passing out the gate at noon, we found a number of carriages and + pedestrians going the same way. It was the very perfection of autumn + temperature, and I do not remember to have ever seen so blue hills, so + green meadows, so fresh air and so bright sunshine combined in one scene + before. All that gloom and coldness of which I lately complained has + vanished. + </p> + <p> + Traveling increases very much one's capacity for admiration. Every + beautiful scene appears as beautiful as if it had been the first; and + although I may have seen a hundred times as lovely a combination of sky + and landscape, the pleasure which it awakens is never diminished. This is + one of the greatest blessings we enjoy—the freshness and glory which + Nature wears to our eyes forever. It shows that the soul never grows old—that + the eye of age can take in the impression of beauty with the same + enthusiastic joy that leaped through the heart of childhood. + </p> + <p> + We found the crowd around the race-course but thin; half the people there, + and <i>all</i> the horses, appeared to be English. It was a good place to + observe the beauty of Florence, which however, may be done in a short + time, as there is not much of it. There is beauty in Italy, undoubtedly, + but it is either among the peasants or the higher class of nobility. I + will tell our American women confidentially, for I know they have too much + sense to be vain of it, that they surpass the rest of the world as much in + beauty as they do in intelligence and virtue. I saw in one of the + carriages the wife of Alexander Dumas, the French author. She is a large, + fair complexioned woman, and is now, from what cause I know not, living + apart from her husband. + </p> + <p> + The jockeys paced up and down the fields, preparing their beautiful + animals for the approaching heat, and as the hour drew nigh the mounted + dragoons busied themselves in clearing the space. It was a one-mile + course, to the end of the lawn and back. At last the bugle sounded, and + off went three steeds like arrows let fly. They passed us, their light + limbs bounding over the turf, a beautiful dark-brown taking the lead. We + leaned over the railing and watched them eagerly. The bell rang—they + reached the other end—we saw them turn and come dashing back, + nearer, nearer; the crowd began to shout, and in a few seconds the brown + one had won it by four or five lengths. The fortunate horse was led around + in triumph, and I saw an English lady, remarkable for her betting + propensities, come out from the crowd and kiss it in apparent delight. + </p> + <p> + After an interval, three others took the field—all graceful, + spirited creatures. This was a more exciting race than the first; they + flew past us nearly abreast, and the crowd looked after them in anxiety. + They cleared the course like wild deer, and in a minute or two came back, + the racer of an English nobleman a short distance ahead. The jockey threw + up his hand in token of triumph as he approached the goal, and the people + cheered him. It was a beautiful sight to see those noble animals + stretching to the utmost of their speed, as they dashed down the grassy + lawn. The lucky one always showed by his proud and erect carriage, his + consciousness of success. + </p> + <p> + Florence is fast becoming modernized. The introduction of gas, and the + construction of the railroad to Pisa, which is nearly completed, will make + sad havoc with the air of poetry which still lingers in its silent + streets. There is scarcely a bridge, a tower, or a street, which is not + connected with some stirring association. In the Via San Felice, Raphael + used to paint when a boy; near the Ponte Santa Trinita stands Michael + Angelo's house, with his pictures, clothes, and painting implements, just + as he left it three centuries ago; on the south side of the Arno is the + house of Galileo, and that of Machiavelli stands in an avenue near the + Ducal Palace. While threading my way through some dark, crooked streets in + an unfrequented part of the city, I noticed an old, untenanted house, + bearing a marble tablet above the door. I drew near and read:—"In + this house of the Alighieri was born the Divine Poet!" It was the + birth-place of Dante! + </p> + <p> + <i>Nov. 1.</i>—Yesterday morning we were apprised of the safe + arrival of a new scion of the royal family in the world by the ringing of + the city bells. To-day, to celebrate the event, the shops were closed, and + the people made a holiday of it. Merry chimes pealed out from every tower, + and discharges of cannon thundered up from the fortress. In the evening + the dome of the Cathedral was illuminated, and the lines of cupola, + lantern, and cross were traced in flame on the dark sky, like a crown of + burning stars dropped from Heaven on the holy pile. I went in and walked + down the aisle, listening for awhile to the grand choral, while the + clustered tapers under the dome quivered and trembled, as if shaken by the + waves of music which burst continually within its lofty concave. + </p> + <p> + A few days ago Prince Corsini, Prime Minister of Tuscany, died at an + advanced age. I saw his body brought in solemn procession by night, with + torches and tapers, to the church of Santa Trinita. Soldiers followed with + reversed arms and muffled drums, the band playing a funeral march. I + forced myself through the crowd into the church, which was hung with black + and gold, and listened to the long drawn chanting of the priests around + the bier. + </p> + <p> + We lately visited the Florentine Museum. Besides the usual collection of + objects of natural history, there is an anatomical cabinet, very + celebrated for its preparations in wax. All parts of the human frame are + represented so wonderfully exact, that students of medicine pursue their + studies here in summer with the same facility as from real "subjects." + Every bone, muscle, and nerve in the body is perfectly counterfeited, the + whole forming a collection as curious as it is useful. One chamber is + occupied with representations of the plague of Rome, Milan, and Florence. + They are executed with horrible truth to nature, but I regretted + afterwards having seen them. There are enough forms of beauty and delight + in the world on which to employ the eye, without making it familiar with + scenes which can only be remembered with a shudder. + </p> + <p> + We derive much pleasure from the society of the American artists who are + now residing in Florence. At the houses of Powers, and Brown, the painter, + we spend many delightful evenings in the company of our gifted countrymen. + They are drawn together by a kindred, social feeling as well as by their + mutual aims, and form among themselves a society so unrestrained, + American-like, that the traveler who meets them forgets his absence for a + time. These noble representatives of our country, all of whom possess the + true, inborn spirit of republicanism, have made the American name known + and respected in Florence. Powers, especially, who is intimate with many + of the principal Italian families, is universally esteemed. The Grand Duke + has more than once visited his studio and expressed the highest admiration + of his talents. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0037" id="link2HCH0037"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVII. — AMERICAN ART IN FLORENCE. + </h2> + <p> + I have seen Ibrahim Pacha, the son of old Mehemet Ali, driving in his + carriage through the streets. He is hero on a visit from Lucca, where he + has been spending some time on account of his health. He is a man of + apparently fifty years of age; his countenance wears a stern and almost + savage look, very consistent with the character he bears and the political + part he has played. He is rather portly in person, the pale olive of his + complexion contrasting strongly with a beard perfectly white. In common + with all his attendants, he wears the high red cap, picturesque blue tunic + and narrow trowsers of the Egyptians. There is scarcely a man of them + whose face with its wild, oriental beauty, does not show to advantage + among us civilized and prosaic Christians. + </p> + <p> + In Florence, and indeed through all Italy, there is much reason for our + country to be proud of the high stand her artists are taking. The sons of + our rude western clime, brought up without other resources than their own + genius and energy, now fairly rival those, who from their cradle upwards + have drawn inspiration and ambition from the glorious masterpieces of the + old painters and sculptors. Wherever our artists are known, they never + fail to create a respect for American talent, and to dissipate the false + notions respecting our cultivation and refinement, which prevail in + Europe. There are now eight or ten of our painters and sculptors in + Florence, some of whom, I do not hesitate to say, take the very first rank + among living artists. + </p> + <p> + I have been highly gratified in visiting the studio of Mr. G.L. Brown, + who, as a landscape painter, is destined to take a stand second to few, + since the days of Claude Lorraine. He is now without a rival in Florence, + or perhaps in Italy, and has youth, genius and a plentiful stock of the + true poetic enthusiasm for his art, to work for him far greater triumphs. + His Italian landscapes have that golden mellowness and transparency of + atmosphere which give such a charm to the real scenes, and one would think + he used on his pallette, in addition to the more substantial colors, + condensed air and sunlight and the liquid crystal of streams. He has wooed + Nature like a lover, and she has not withheld her sympathy. She has taught + him how to raise and curve her trees, load their boughs with foliage, and + spread underneath them the broad, cool shadows—to pile up the + shattered crag, and steep the long mountain range in the haze of alluring + distance. + </p> + <p> + He has now nearly finished, a large painting of "Christ Preaching in the + Wilderness," which is of surprising beauty. You look upon one of the + fairest scenes of Judea. In front, the rude multitude are grouped on one + side, in the edge of a magnificent forest; on the other side, towers up a + rough wall of rock and foliage that stretches back into the distance, + where some grand blue mountains are piled against the sky, and a beautiful + stream, winding through the middle of the picture, slides away out of the + foreground. Just emerging from the shade of one of the cliffs, is the + benign figure of the Saviour, with the warm light which breaks from behind + the trees, falling around him as he advances. There is a smaller picture + of the "Shipwreck of St. Paul," in which he shows equal skill in painting + a troubled sea and breaking storm. He is one of the young artists from + whom we have most to hope. + </p> + <p> + I have been extremely interested in looking over a great number of + sketches made by Mr. Kellogg, of Cincinnati, during a tour through Egypt, + Arabia Petræa and Palestine. He visited many places out of the general + route of travelers, and beside the great number of landscape views, + brought away many sketches of the characters and costumes of the Orient. + From some of these he has commenced paintings, which, as his genius is + equal to his practice, will be of no ordinary value. Indeed, some of these + must give him at once an established reputation in America. In + Constantinople, where he resided several months, he enjoyed peculiar + advantges for the exercise of his art, through the favor and influence of + Mr. Carr, the American, and Sir Stratford Canning, the British Minister. I + saw a splendid diamond cup, presented to him by Riza Pacha, the late Grand + Vizier. The sketches he brought from thence and from the valleys of + Phrygia and the mountain solitudes of old Olympus, are of great interest + and value. Among his later paintings, I might mention an angel, whose + countenance beams with a rapt and glorious beauty. A divine light shines + through all the features and heightens the glow of adoration to an + expression all spiritual and immortal. If Mr. Kellogg will give us a few + more of these heavenly conceptions, we will place him on a pedestal, + little lower than that of Guido. + </p> + <p> + Greenough, who has been sometime in Germany, returned lately to Florence, + where he has a colossal group in progress for the portico of the Capitol. + I have seen part of it, which is nearly finished in the marble. It shows a + backwoodsman just triumphing in the struggle with an Indian; another group + to be added, will represent the wife and child of the former. The colossal + size of the statues gives a grandeur to the action, as if it were a combat + of Titans; there is a consciousness of power, an expression of lofty + disdain in the expansion of the hunter's nostril and the proud curve of + his lip, that might become a god. The spirit of action, of breathing, + life-like exertion, so much more difficult to infuse into the marble than + that of repose, is perfectly attained. I will not enter into a more + particular description, as it will probably be sent to the United States + in a year or two. It is a magnificent work; the best, unquestionably, that + Greenough has yet made. The subject, and the grandeur he has given it in + the execution, will ensure it a much more favorable reception than a false + taste gave to his Washington. + </p> + <p> + Mr. C.B. Ives, a young sculptor from Connecticut, has not disappointed the + high promise he gave before leaving home. I was struck with some of his + busts in Philadelphia, particularly those of Mrs. Sigourney and Joseph R. + Chandler, and it has been no common pleasure to visit his studio here in + Florence, and look on some of his ideal works. He has lately made two + models, which, when finished in marble, will be works of great beauty. + They will contribute greatly to his reputation here and in America. One of + these represents a child of four or five years of age, holding in his hand + a dead bird, on which he is gazing, with childish grief and wonder, that + it is so still and drooping. It is a beautiful thought; the boy is leaning + forward as he sits, holding the lifeless playmate close in his hands, his + sadness touched with a vague expression, as if he could not yet comprehend + the idea of death. + </p> + <p> + The other is of equal excellence, in a different style; it is a bust of + "Jephthah's daughter," when the consciousness of her doom first flashes + upon her. The face and bust are beautiful with the bloom of perfect + girlhood. A simple robe covers her breast, and her rich hair is gathered + up behind, and bound with a slender fillet. Her head, of the pure + classical mould, is bent forward, as if weighed down by the shock, and + there is a heavy drooping in the mouth and eyelids, that denotes a sudden + and sickening agony. It is not a violent, passionate grief, but a deep and + almost paralyzing emotion—a shock from which the soul will finally + rebound, strengthened to make the sacrifice. + </p> + <p> + Would it not be better for some scores of our rich merchants to lay out + their money on statues and pictures, instead of balls and spendthrift + sons? A few such expenditures, properly directed, would do much for the + advancement of the fine arts. An occasional golden blessing, bestowed on + genius, might be returned on the giver, in the fame he had assisted in + creating. There seems, however, to be at present a rapid increase in + refined taste, and a better appreciation of artistic talent, in our + country. And as an American, nothing has made me feel prouder than this, + and the steadily increasing reputation of our artists. + </p> + <p> + Of these, no one has done more within the last few years, than Powers. + With a tireless and persevering energy, such as could have belonged to few + but Americans, he has already gained a name in his art, that posterity + will pronounce in the same breath with Phidias, Michael Angelo and + Thorwaldsen. I cannot describe the enjoyment I have derived from looking + at his matchless works. I should hesitate in giving my own imperfect + judgment of their excellence, if I had not found it to coincide with that + of many others who are better versed in the rules of art. The sensation + which his "Greek Slave" produced in England, has doubtless ere this been + breezed across the Atlantic, and I see by the late American papers that + they are growing familiar with his fame. When I read a notice seven or + eight years ago, of the young sculptor of Cincinnati, whose busts + exhibited so much evidence of genius, I little dreamed I should meet him + in Florence, with the experience of years of toil added to his early + enthusiasm, and every day increasing his renown. + </p> + <p> + You would like to hear of his statue of Eve, which men of taste pronounce + one of the finest works of modern times. A more perfect figure never + filled my eye. I have seen the masterpieces of Thorwaldsen, Dannecker and + Canova, and the Venus de Medici, but I have seen nothing yet that can + exceed the beauty of this glorious statue. So completely did the first + view excite my surprise and delight, and thrill every feeling that awakes + at the sight of the Beautiful, that my mind dwelt intensely on it for days + afterwards. This is the Eve of Scripture—the Eve of Milton—mother + of mankind and fairest of all her race. With the full and majestic beauty + of ripened womanhood, she wears the purity of a world as yet unknown to + sin. With the hearing of a queen, there is in her countenance the softness + and grace of a tender, loving woman; + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "God-like erect, with native honor clad + In naked majesty." +</pre> + <p> + She holds the fatal fruit extended in her hand, and her face expresses the + struggle between conscience, dread and desire. The serpent, whose coiled + length under the leaves and flowers entirely surrounds her, thus forming a + beautiful allegorical symbol, is watching her decision from an ivied trunk + at her side. Her form is said to be fully as perfect as the Venus de + Medici, and from its greater size, has an air of conscious and ennobling + dignity. The head is far superior in beauty, and soul speaks from every + feature of the countenance. I add a few stanzas which the contemplation of + this statue called forth. Though unworthy the subject, they may perhaps + faintly shadow the <i>sentiment</i> which Powers has so eloquently + embodied in marble: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THE "EVE" OF POWERS. + + A faultless being from the marble sprung, + She stands in beauty there! + As when the grace of Eden 'round her clung— + Fairest, where all was fair! + + Pure, as when first from God's creating hand + She came, on man to shine; + So seems she now, in living stone to stand— + A mortal, yet divine! + + The spark the Grecian from Olympus caught, + Left not a loftier trace; + The daring of the sculptor's hand has wrought + A soul in that sweet face! + He won as well the sacred fire from heaven. + God-sent, not stolen down, + And no Promethean doom for him is given, + But ages of renown! + + The soul of beauty breathes around that form + A more enchanting spell; + There blooms each virgin grace, ere yet the storm + On blighted Eden fell! + The first desire upon her lovely brow, + Raised by an evil power; + Doubt, longing, dread, are in her features now— + It is the trial-hour! + + How every thought that strives within her breast, + In that one glance is shown! + Say, can that heart of marble be at rest, + Since spirit warms the stone? + Will not those limbs, of so divine a mould, + Move, when her thought is o'er— + When she has yielded to the tempter's hold + And Eden blooms no more? + + Art, like a Phoenix, springs from dust again— + She cannot pass away! + Bound down in gloom, she breaks apart the chain + And struggles up today! + The flame, first kindled in the ages gone, + Has never ceased to burn, + And <i>westward</i> now, appears the kindling dawn, + Which marks the day's return! +</pre> + <p> + The "Greek Slave" is now in the possession of Mr. Grant, of London, and I + only saw the clay model. Like the Eve, it is a form that one's eye tells + him is perfect, unsurpassed; but it is the budding loveliness of a girl, + instead of the perfected beauty of a woman. In England it has been + pronounced superior to Canova's works, and indeed <i>I</i> have seen + nothing of his, that could be placed beside it. + </p> + <p> + Powers has now nearly finished a most exquisite figure of a fisher-boy, + standing on the shore, with his net and rudder in one hand, while with the + other he holds a shell to his ear and listens if it murmur to him of a + gathering storm. His slight, boyish limbs are full of grace and delicacy—you + feel that the youthful frame could grow up into nothing less than an + Apollo. Then the head—how beautiful! Slightly bent on one side, with + the rim of the shell thrust under his locks, lips gently parted, and the + face wrought up to the most hushed and breathless expression, he listens + whether the sound be deeper than its wont. It makes you hold your breath + and listen, to look at it. Mrs. Jameson somewhere remarks that repose or + suspended motion, should be always chosen for a statue that shall present + a perfect, unbroken impression to the mind. If this be true, the enjoyment + must be much more complete where not only the motion, but almost breath + and thought are suspended, and all the faculties wrought into one hushed + and intense sensation. In gazing on this exquisite conception, I feel my + admiration filled to the utmost, without that painful, aching impression, + so often left by beautiful works. It glides into my vision like a form + long missed from the gallery of beauty I am forming in my mind, and I gaze + on it with an ever new and increasing delight. + </p> + <p> + Now I come to the last and fairest of all—the divine Proserpine. Not + the form, for it is but a bust rising from a capital of acanthus leaves, + which curve around the breast and arms and turn gracefully outward, but + the face, whose modest maiden beauty can find no peer among goddesses or + mortals. So looked she on the field of Ennæ—that "fairer flower," so + soon to be gathered by "gloomy Dis." A slender crown of green wheatblades, + showing alike her descent from Ceres and her virgin years, circles her + head. Truly, if Pygmalion stole his fire to warm such a form as this, Jove + should have pardoned him. Of Powers' busts it is unnecessary for me to + speak. He has lately finished a very beautiful one of the Princess + Demidoff, daughter of Jerome Bonaparte. + </p> + <p> + We will soon, I hope, have the "Eve" in America. Powers has generously + refused many advantageous offers for it, that he might finally send it + home; and his country, therefore, will possess this statue, his first + ideal work. She may well be proud of the genius and native energy of her + young artist, and she should repay them by a just and liberal + encouragement. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0038" id="link2HCH0038"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVIII. — AN ADVENTURE ON THE GREAT ST. BERNARD—WALKS + AROUND FLORENCE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Nov. 9.</i>—A few days ago I received a letter from my cousin at + Heidelberg, describing his solitary walk from Genoa over the Alps, and + through the western part of Switzerland. The news of his safe arrival + dissipated the anxiety we were beginning to feel, on account of his long + silence, while it proved that our fears concerning the danger of such a + journey were not altogether groundless. He met with a startling adventure + on the Great St. Bernard, which will be best described by an extract from + his own letter: + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + "Such were my impressions of Rome. But leaving the 'Eternal City,' I must + hasten on to give you a description of an adventure I met with in crossing + the Alps, omitting for the present an account of the trip from Rome to + Genoa, and my lonely walk through Sardinia. When I had crossed the + mountain range north of Genoa, the plains of Piedmont stretched out before + me. I could see the snowy sides and summits of the Alps more than one + hundred miles distant, looking like white, fleecy clouds on a summer day. + It was a magnificent prospect, and I wonder not that the heart of the + Swiss soldier, after years of absence in foreign service, beats with joy + when he again looks on his native mountains. + </p> + <p> + "As I approached nearer, the weather changed, and dark, gloomy clouds + enveloped them, so that they seemed to present an impassible barrier to + the lands beyond them. At Ivrea, I entered the interesting valley of + Aosta. The whole valley, fifty miles in length, is inhabited by miserable + looking people, nearly one half of them being afflicted with goitre and + cretinism. They looked more idiotic and disgusting than any I have ever + seen, and it was really painful to behold such miserable specimens of + humanity dwelling amid the grandest scenes of nature. Immediately after + arriving in the town of Aosta, situated at the upper end of the valley, I + began, alone, the ascent of the Great St. Bernard. It was just noon, and + the clouds on the mountains indicated rain. The distance from Aosta to the + monastery or hospice of St. Bernard, is about twenty English miles. + </p> + <p> + "At one o'clock it commenced raining vary hard, and to gain shelter I went + into a rude hut; but it was filled with so many of those idiotic cretins, + lying down on the earthy floor with the dogs and other animals, that I was + glad to leave them as soon as the storm had abated in some degree. I + walked rapidly for three hours, when I met a traveler and his guide + descending the mountain. I asked him in Italian the distance to the + hospice, and he undertook to answer me in French, but the words did not + seem to flow very fluently, so I said quickly, observing then that he was + an Englishman: 'Try some other language, if you please, sir!' He replied + instantly in his vernacular: 'You have a d—d long walk before you, + and you'll have to hurry to get to the top before night!' Thanking him, we + shook hands and hurried on, he downward and I upward. About eight miles + from the summit, I was directed into the wrong path by an ignorant boy who + was tending sheep, and went a mile out of the course, towards Mont Blanc, + before I discovered my mistake. I hurried back into the right path again, + and soon overtook another boy ascending the mountain, who asked me if he + might accompany me as he was alone, to which I of course answered, yes; + but when we began to enter the thick clouds that covered the mountains, he + became alarmed, and said he would go no farther. I tried to encourage him + by saying we had only five miles more to climb, but, turning quickly, he + ran down the path and was soon out of sight. + </p> + <p> + "After a long and most toilsome ascent, spurred on as I was by the storm + and the approach of night, I saw at last through the clouds a little + house, which I supposed might be a part of the monastery, but it turned + out to be only a house of refuge, erected by the monks to take in + travelers in extreme cases or extraordinary danger. The man who was + staying there, told me the monastery was a mile and a half further, and + thinking therefore that I could soon reach it, I started out again, + although darkness was approaching. In a short time the storm began in good + earnest, and the cold winds blew with the greatest fury. It grew dark very + suddenly and I lost sight of the poles which are placed along the path to + guide the traveler. I then ran on still higher, hoping to find them again, + but without success. The rain and snow fell thick, and although I think I + am tolerably courageous, I began to be alarmed, for it was impossible to + know in what direction I was going. I could hear the waterfalls dashing + and roaring down the mountain hollows on each side of me; in the gloom, + the foam and leaping waters resembled streaming fires. I thought of + turning back to find the little house of refuge again, but it seemed quite + as dangerous and uncertain as to go forward. After the fatigue I had + undergone since noon, it would have been dangerous to be obliged to stay, + out all night in the driving storm, which was every minute increasing in + coldness and intensity. + </p> + <p> + "I stopped and shouted aloud, hoping I might be somewhere near the + monastery, but no answer came—no noise except the storm and the roar + of the waterfalls. I climbed up the rocks nearly a quarter of a mile + higher, and shouted again. I listened with anxiety for two or three + minutes, but hearing no response, I concluded to find a shelter for the + night under a ledge of rocks. While looking around me, I fancied I heard + in the distance a noise like the trampling of hoofs over the rocks, and + thinking travelers might be near, I called aloud for the third time. After + wailing a moment, a voice came ringing on my ears through the clouds, like + one from Heaven in response to my own. My heart beat quickly; I hurried in + the direction from which the sound came, and to my joy found two men—servants + of the monastery—who were driving their mules into shelter. Never in + my whole life was I more glad to hear the voice of man. These men + conducted me to the monastery, one-fourth of a mile higher, built by the + side of a lake at the summit of the pass, while on each side, the + mountains, forever covered with snow, tower some thousands of feet higher. + </p> + <p> + "Two or three of the noble St. Bernard dogs barked a welcome as we + approached, which brought a young monk to the door. I addressed him in + German, but to my surprise he answered in broken English. He took me into + a warm room and gave me a suit of clothes, such as are worn by the monks, + for my dress, as well as my package of papers, were completely saturated + with rain. I sat down to supper in company with till the monks of the + Hospice, I in my monkish robe looking like one of the holy order. You + would have laughed to have seen me in their costume. Indeed, I felt almost + satisfied to turn monk, as everything seemed so comfortable in the warm + supper room, with its blazing wood fire, while outside raged the storm + still more violently. But when I thought of their voluntary banishment + from the world, up in that high pass of the Alps, and that the affection + of woman never gladdened their hearts, I was ready to renounce my monkish + dress next morning, without reluctance. + </p> + <p> + "In the address book of the monastery, I found Longfellow's 'Excelsior' + written on a piece of paper and signed 'America.' You remember the stanza: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + At break of clay, as heavenward, + The pious monks of St. Bernard + Uttered the oft-repeated prayer, + A voice cried through the startled air: + Excelsior! +</pre> + <p> + It seemed to add a tenfold interest to the poem, to read it on old St. + Bernard. In the morning I visited the house where are kept the bodies of + the travelers, who perish in crossing the mountain. It is filled with + corpses, ranged in rows, and looking like mummies, for the cold is so + intense that they will keep for years without decaying, and are often + recognized and removed by their friends. + </p> + <p> + "Of my descent to Martigny, my walk down the Rhone, and along the shores + of Lake Leman, my visit to the prison of Chilian and other wanderings + across Switzerland, my pleasure in seeing the old river Rhine again, and + my return to Heidelberg at night, with the bright moon shining on the + Neckar and the old ruined castle, I can now say no more, nor is it + necessary, for are not all these things 'written in my book of + Chronicles,' to be seen by you when we meet again in Paris? + </p> + <p> + Ever yours, FRANK." + </p> + <p> + <i>Dec. 16.</i>—I took a walk lately to the tower of Galileo. In + company with three friends, I left Florence by the <i>Porta Romana</i>, + and ascended the <i>Poggie Imperiale</i>. This beautiful avenue, a mile + and a quarter in length, leading up a gradual ascent to a villa of the + Grand Duke, is bordered with splendid cypresses and evergreen oaks, and + the grass banks are always fresh and green, so that even in winter it + calls up a remembrance of summer. In fact, winter does not wear the scowl + here that he has at home; he is robed rather in a threadbare garment of + autumn, and it is only high up on the mountain tops, out of the reach of + his enemy, the sun, that he dares to throw it off, and bluster about with + his storms and scatter down his snow-flakes. The roses still bud and bloom + in the hedges, the emerald of the meadows is not a whit paler, the sun + looks down lovingly as yet, and there are only the white helmets of some + of the Appenines, with the leafless mulberries and vines, to tell us that + we have changed seasons. + </p> + <p> + A quarter of an hour's walk, part of it by a path through an olive + orchard, brought us to the top of a hill, which was surmounted by a + square, broken, ivied tower, forming part of a storehouse for the produce + of the estate. We entered, saluted by a dog, and passing through a + court-yard, in which stood two or three carts full of brown olives, found + our way to the rickety staircase. I spared my sentiment in going up, + thinking the steps might have been renewed since Galileo's time, but the + glorious landscape which opened around us when we reached the top, time + could not change, and I gazed upon it with interest and emotion, as my eye + took in those forms which had once been mirrored in the philosopher's. Let + me endeavor to describe the features of the scene. + </p> + <p> + Fancy yourself lifted to the summit of a high hill, whose base slopes down + to the valley of the Arno, and looking northward. Behind you is a + confusion of hill and valley, growing gradually dimmer away to the + horizon. Before and below you is a vale, with Florence and her great domes + and towers in its lap, and across its breadth of five miles the mountain + of Fiesole. To the west it stretches away unbroken for twenty miles, + covered thickly with white villas—like a meadow of daisies, + magnified. A few miles to the east the plain is rounded with mountains, + between whose interlocking bases we can see the brown current of the Arno. + Some of their peaks, as well as the mountain of Vallombrosa, along the + eastern sky, are tipped with snow. Imagine the air filled with a thick + blue mist, like a semi-transparent veil, which softens every thing into + dreamy indistinctness, the sunshine falling slantingly through this in + spots, touching the landscape here and there as with a sudden blaze of + fire, and you will complete the picture. Does it not repay your mental + flight across the Atlantic. + </p> + <p> + One evening, on coming out of the cafè, the moon was shining so brightly + and clearly, that I involuntarily bent my steps towards the river; I + walked along the <i>Lung'Arno</i>, enjoying the heavenly moonlight—"the + night of cloudless climes and starry skies!" A purer silver light never + kissed the brow of Endymion. The brown Arno took into his breast "the + redundant glory," and rolled down his pebbly bed with a more musical + ripple; opposite stretched the long mass of buildings—the deep + arches that rose from the water were filled with black shadow, and the + irregular fronts of the houses touched with a mellow glow. The arches of + the upper bridge were in shadow, cutting their dark outline on the silvery + sweep of the Appenines, far up the stream. A veil of luminous gray covered + the hill of San Miniato, with its towers and cypress groves, and there was + a crystal depth in the atmosphere, as if it shone with its own light. The + whole scene affected me as something too glorious to be real—painful + from the very intensity of its beauty. Three moons ago, at the foot of + Vallombrosa, I saw the Appenines flooded with the same silvery gush, and + thought also, then, that I had seen the same moon amid far dearer scenes, + but never before the same dreamy and sublime glory showered down from her + pale orb. Some solitary lights were burning along the river, and + occasionally a few Italians passed by, wrapped in their mantles. I went + home to the Piazza del Granduca as the light, pouring into the square from + behind the old palace, fell over the fountain of Neptune and sheathed in + silver the back of the colossal god. + </p> + <p> + Whoever looks on the valley of the Arno from San Miniato, and observes the + Appenine range, of which Fiesole is one, bounding it on the north, will + immediately notice to the northwest a double peak rising high above all + the others. The bare, brown forehead of this, known by the name of <i>Monte + Morello</i>, seemed so provokingly to challenge an ascent, that we + determined to try it. So we started early, the day before yesterday, from + the Porta San Gallo, with nothing but the frosty grass and fresh air to + remind us of the middle of December. Leaving the Prato road, at the base + of the mountain, we passed Careggi, a favorite farm of Lorenzo the + Magnificent, and entered a narrow glen where a little brook was brawling + down its rocky channel. Here and there stood a rustic mill, near which + women were busy spreading their washed clothes on the grass. Following the + footpath, we ascended a long eminence to a chapel where some boys were + amusing themselves with a common country game. They have a small wheel, + around which they wind a rope, and, running a little distance to increase + the velocity, let it off with a sudden jerk. On a level road it can be + thrown upwards of a quarter of a mile. + </p> + <p> + From the chapel, a gradual ascent along the ridge of a hill brought us to + the foot of the peak, which rose high before us, covered with bare rocks + and stunted oaks. The wind blew coldly from a snowy range to the north, as + we commenced ascending with a good will. A few shepherds were leading + their flocks along the sides, to browse on the grass and withered bushes, + and we started up a large hare occasionally from his leafy covert. The + ascent was very toilsome; I was obliged to stop frequently on account of + the painful throbbing of my heart, which made it difficult to breathe. + When the summit was gained, we lay down awhile on the leeward side to + recover ourselves. + </p> + <p> + We looked on the great valley of the Arno, perhaps twenty-five miles long, + and five or six broad, lying like a long elliptical basin sunk among the + hills. I can liken it to nothing but a vast sea; for a dense, blue mist + covered the level surface, through which the domes of Florence rose up + like a craggy island, while the thousands of scattered villas resembled + ships, with spread sails, afloat on its surface. The sharp, cutting wind + soon drove us down, with a few hundred bounds, to the path again. Three + more hungry mortals did not dine at the <i>Cacciatore</i> that day. + </p> + <p> + The chapel of the Medici, which we visited, is of wonderful beauty. The + walls are entirely encrusted with <i>pietra dura</i> and the most precious + kinds of marble. The ceiling is covered with gorgeous frescoes by + Benevenuto, a modern painter. Around the sides, in magnificent sarcophagi + of marble and jasper, repose the ashes of a few Cosmos and Ferdinands. I + asked the sacristan for the tomb of Lorenzo the Magnificent. "Oh!" said + he, "he lived during the republic—he has no tomb; these are only for + Dukes!" I could not repress a sigh at the lavish waste of labor and + treasure on this one princely chapel. They might have slumbered unnoted, + like Lorenzo, if they had done as much for their country and Italy. + </p> + <p> + <i>December 19.</i>—It is with a heavy heart, that I sit down + tonight to make my closing note in this lovely city and in the journal + which has recorded my thoughts and impressions since leaving America. I + should find it difficult to analyze my emotions, but I know that they + oppress me painfully. So much rushes at once over the mind and heart—memories + of what has passed through both, since I made the first note in its pages—alternations + of hope and anxiety and aspiration, but <i>never</i> despondency—that + it resembles in a manner, the closing of a life. I seem almost to have + lived through the common term of a life in this short period. Much + spiritual and mental experience has crowded into a short time the + sensations of years. Painful though some of it has been, it was still + welcome. Difficulty and toil give the soul strength to crush, in a loftier + region, the passions which draw strength only from the earth. So long as + we listen to the purer promptings within us, there is a Power invisible, + though not unfelt, who protects us—amid the toil and tumult and + soiling struggle, there is ever an eye that watches, ever a heart that + overflows with Infinite and Almighty Love! Let us trust then in that + Eternal Spirit, who pours out on us his warm and boundless blessings, + through the channels of so many kindred human hearts! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0039" id="link2HCH0039"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIX. — WINTER TRAVELING AMONG THE APPENINES. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Valley of the Arno, Dec 22.</i>—It is a glorious morning after + our two days' walk, through rain and mud, among these stormy Appenines. + The range of high peaks, among which is the celebrated monastery of + Camaldoli, lie just before us, their summits dazzling with the new fallen + snow. The clouds are breaking away, and a few rosy flushes announce the + approach of the sun. It has rained during the night, and the fields are as + green and fresh as on a morning in spring. + </p> + <p> + We left Florence on the 20th, while citizens and strangers were vainly + striving to catch a glimpse of the Emperor of Russia. He is, from some + cause, very shy of being seen, in his journeys from place to place, using + the greatest art and diligence to prevent the time of his departure and + arrival from being known. On taking leave of Powers, I found him expecting + the Autocrat, as he had signified his intention of visiting his studio; it + was a cause of patriotic pride to find that crowned heads know and + appreciate the genius of our sculptor. The sky did not promise much, as we + set out; when we had entered the Appenines and taken a last look of the + lovely valley behind us, and the great dome of the city where we had spent + four delightful months, it began to rain heavily. Determined to conquer + the weather at the beginning, we kept on, although before many miles were + passed, it became too penetrating to be agreeable. The mountains grew + nearly black under the shadow of the clouds, and the storms swept drearily + down their passes and defiles, till the scenery looked more like the Hartz + than Italy. We were obliged to stop at Ponte Sieve and dry our saturated + garments: when, as the rain slackened somewhat, we rounded the foot of the + mountain of Vallombrosa, above the swollen and noisy Arno, to the little + village of Cucina. + </p> + <p> + We entered the only inn in the place, followed by a crowd of wondering + boys, for two such travelers had probably never been seen there. They made + a blazing fire for us in the broad chimney, and after the police of the + place satisfied themselves that we were not dangerous characters, they + asked many questions about our country. I excited the sympathy of the + women greatly in our behalf by telling them we had three thousand miles of + sea between us and our homes. They exclaimed in the most sympathising + tones: "<i>Poverini!</i> so far to go!—three thousand miles of + water!" + </p> + <p> + The next morning we followed the right bank of the Arno. At Incisa, a + large town on the river, the narrow pass broadens into a large and fertile + plain, bordered on the north by the mountains. The snow storms were + sweeping around their summits the whole day, and I thought of the desolate + situation of the good monks who had so hospitably entertained us three + months before. It was weary traveling; but at Levane our fatigues were + soon forgotten. Two or three peasants were sitting last night beside the + blazing fire, and we were amused to hear them talking about us. I + overheard one asking another to converse with us awhile. "Why should I + speak to them?" said he; "they are not of our profession—we are + swineherds, and they do not care to talk with us." However, his curiosity + prevailed at last, and we had a long conversation together. It seemed + difficult for them to comprehend how there could be so much water to + cross, without any land, before reaching our country. Finding we were + going to Rome, I overheard one remark we were pilgrims, which seemed to be + the general supposition, as there are few foot-travelers in Italy. The + people said to one another as we passed along the road:—"They are + making a journey of penance!" Those peasants expressed themselves very + well for persons of their station, but they were remarkably ignorant of + everything beyond their own olive orchards and vine fields. + </p> + <p> + <i>Perugia, Dec. 24.</i>—On leaving Levane, the morning gave a + promise, and the sun winked at us once or twice through the broken clouds, + with a watery eye; but our cup was not yet full. After crossing one or two + shoulders of the range of hills, we descended to the great upland plain of + Central Italy, watered by the sources of the Arno and the Tiber. The + scenery is of a remarkable character. The hills appear to have been washed + and swept by some mighty flood. They are worn into every shape—pyramids, + castles, towers—standing desolate and brown, in long ranges, like + the ruins of mountains. The plain is scarred with deep gulleys, adding to + the look of decay which accords so well with the Cyclopean relics of the + country. + </p> + <p> + A storm of hail which rolled away before us, disclosed the city of Arezzo, + on a hill at the other end of the plain, its heavy cathedral crowning the + pyramidal mass of buildings. Our first care was to find a good trattoria, + for hunger spoke louder than sentiment, and then we sought the house where + Petrarch was born. A young priest showed it to us on the summit of the + hill. It has not been changed since he lived in it. + </p> + <p> + On leaving Florence, we determined to pursue the same plan as in Germany, + of stopping at the inns frequented by the common people. They treated us + here, as elsewhere, with great kindness and sympathy, and we were freed + from the outrageous impositions practised at the greater hotels. They + always built a large fire to dry us, after our day's walk in the rain, and + placing chairs in the hearth, which was raised several feet above the + floor, stationed us there, like the giants Gog and Magog, while the + children, assembled below, gazed up in open-mouthed wonder at our elevated + greatness. They even invited us to share their simple meals with them, and + it was amusing to hear their goodhearted exclamations of pity at finding + we were so far from home. We slept in the great beds (for the most of the + Italian beds are calculated for a man, wife, and four children!) without + fear of being assassinated, and only met with banditti in dreams. + </p> + <p> + This is a very unfavorable time of the year for foot-traveling. We were + obliged to wait three or four weeks in Florence for a remittance from + America, which not only prevented our leaving as soon as was desirable, + but, by the additional expense of living, left us much smaller means than + we required. However, through the kindness of a generous countryman, who + unhesitatingly loaned us a considerable sum, we were enabled to start with + thirty dollars each, which, with care and economy, will be quite + sufficient to take us to Paris, by way of Rome and Naples, if these storms + do not prevent us from walking. Greece and the Orient, which I so ardently + hoped to visit, are now out of the question. We walked till noon to-day, + over the Val di Chiana to Camuscia, the last post-station in the Tuscan + dominions. On a mountain near it is the city of Cortona, still enclosed + within its Cyclopean walls, built long before the foundation of Rome. Here + our patience gave way, melted down by the unremitting rains, and while + eating dinner we made a bargain for a vehicle to bring us to this city. We + gave a little more than half of what the vetturino demanded, which was + still an exorbitant price—two scudi each for a ride of thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + In a short time we were called to take our seats; I beheld with + consternation a rickety, uncovered, two-wheeled vehicle, to which a single + lean horse was attached. "What!" said I; "is that the carriage you + promised?" "You bargained for a <i>calesino</i>," said he, "and there it + is!" adding, moreover, that there was nothing else in the place. So we + clambered up, thrust our feet among the hay, and the machine rolled off + with a kind of saw-mill motion, at the rate of five miles an hour. + </p> + <p> + Soon after, in ascending the mountain of the Spelunca, a sheet of blue + water was revealed below us—the Lake of Thrasymene! From the + eminence around which we drove, we looked on the whole of its broad + surface and the mountains which encompass it. It is a magnificent sheet of + water, in size and shape somewhat like New York Bay, but the heights + around it are far higher than the hills of Jersey or Staten Island. Three + beautiful islands lie in it, near the eastern shore. + </p> + <p> + While our <i>calesino</i> was stopped at the papal custom-house, I gazed + on the memorable field below us. A crescent plain, between the mountain + and the lake, was the arena where two mighty empires met in combat. The + place seems marked by nature for the scene of some great event. I + experienced a thrilling emotion, such as no battle plain has excited, + since, when a schoolboy, I rambled over the field of Brandywine. I looked + through the long arcades of patriarchal olives, and tried to cover the + field with the shadows of the Roman and Carthaginian myriads. I recalled + the shock of meeting legions, the clash of swords and bucklers, and the + waving standards amid the dust of battle, while stood on the mountain + amphitheatre, trembling and invisible, the protecting deities of Rome. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Far other scene is Thrasymene now!" +</pre> + <p> + We rode over the plain, passed through the dark old town of Passignano, + built on a rocky point by the lake, and dashed along the shore. A dark, + stormy sky bent over us, and the roused waves broke in foam on the rocks. + The winds whistled among the bare oak boughs, and shook the olives till + they twinkled all over. The vetturino whipped our old horse into a gallop, + and we were borne on in unison with the scene, which would have answered + for one of Hoffman's wildest stories. + </p> + <p> + Ascending a long hill, we took a last look in the dusk at Thrasymene, and + continued our journey among the Appenines. The vetturino was to have + changed horses at Magione, thirteen miles from Perugia, but there were + none to be had, and our poor beast was obliged to perform the whole + journey without rest or food. It grew very dark, and a storm, with thunder + and lightning, swept among the hills. The clouds were of pitchy darkness, + and we could see nothing beyond the road, except the lights of + peasant-cottages trembling through the gloom. Now and then a flash of + lightning revealed the black masses of the mountains, on which the solid + sky seemed to rest. The wind and cold rain swept wailing past us, as if an + evil spirit were abroad on the darkness. Three hours of such nocturnal + travel brought us here, wet and chilly, as well as our driver, but I + pitied the poor horse more than him. + </p> + <p> + When we looked out the window, on awaking, the clustered house-tops of the + city, and the summits of the mountains near were covered with snow. But on + walking to the battlements we saw that the valleys below were green and + untouched. Perugia, for its "pride of place," must endure the storms, + while the humbler villages below escape them. As the rain continues, we + have taken seats in a country diligence for Foligno and shall depart in a + few minutes. + </p> + <p> + <i>Dec. 28.</i>—We left Perugia in a close but covered vehicle, and + descending the mountain, crossed the muddy and rapid Tiber in the valley + below. All day we rode slowly among the hills; where the ascent was steep, + two or four large oxen were hitched before the horses. I saw little of the + scenery, for our Italian companions would not bear the windows open. Once, + when we stopped, I got out and found we were in the region of snow, at the + foot of a stormy peak, which towered sublimely above. At dusk, we entered + Foligno, and were driven to the "Croce Bianca"—glad to be thirty + miles further on our way to Rome. + </p> + <p> + After some discussion with a vetturino, who was to leave next morning, we + made a contract with him for the remainder of the journey, for the rain, + which fell in torrents, forbade all thought of pedestrianism. At five + o'clock we rattled out of the gate, and drove by the waning moon and + morning starlight, down the vale of the Clitumnus. As the dawn stole on, I + watched eagerly the features of the scene. Instead of a narrow glen, as my + fancy had pictured, we were in a valley, several miles broad, covered with + rich orchards and fertile fields. A glorious range of mountains bordered + it on the north, looking like Alps in their winter garments. A rosy flush + stole over the snow, which kindled with the growing morn, till they shone + like clouds that float in the sunrise. The Clitumnus, beside us, was the + purest of streams. The heavy rains which had fallen, had not soiled in the + least its limpid crystal. + </p> + <p> + When it grew light enough, I looked at our companions for the three days' + journey. The two other inside seats were occupied by a tradesman of + Trieste, with his wife and child; an old soldier, and a young dragoon + going to visit his parents after seven years' absence, occupied the front + part. Persons traveling together in a carriage are not long in becoming + acquainted—close companionship soon breeds familiarity. Before + night, I had made a fast friend of the young soldier, learned to bear the + perverse humor of the child with as much patience as its father, and even + drawn looks of grim kindness from the crusty old vetturino. + </p> + <p> + Our mid-day resting place was Spoleto. As there were two hours given us, + we took a ramble through the city, visited the ruins of its Roman theatre + and saw the gate erected to commemorate the victory gained here over + Hannibal, which stopped his triumphal march towards Rome. A great part of + the afternoon was spent in ascending among the defiles of Monte Somma, the + highest pass on the road between Ancona and Rome. Assisted by two yoke of + oxen we slowly toiled up through the snow, the mountains on both sides + covered with thickets of box and evergreen oaks, among whose leafy screens + the banditti hide themselves. It is not considered dangerous at present, + but as the dragoons who used to patrol this pass have been sent off to + Bologna, to keep down the rebellion, the robbers will probably return to + their old haunts again. We saw many suspicious looking coverts, where they + might have hidden. + </p> + <p> + We slept at Terni and did not see the falls—not exactly on + Wordsworth's principle of leaving Yarrow "unvisited," but because under + the circumstances, it was impossible. The vetturino did not arrive there + till after dark; he was to leave before dawn; the distance was five miles, + and the roads very bad. Besides, we had seen falls quite as grand, which + needed only a Byron to make them as renowned—we had been told that + those of Tivoli, which we shall see, were equally fine. The Velino, which + we crossed near Terni, was not a large stream—in short, we hunted as + many reasons as we could find, why the falls need not be seen. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Terni before day, we drove up the long vale towards Narni. The + roads were frozen hard; the ascent becoming more difficult, the vetturino + was obliged to stop at a farm-house and get another pair of horses, with + which, and a handsome young contadino as postillion, we reached Narni in a + short time. In climbing the hill, we had a view of the whole valley of + Terni, shut in on all sides by snow-crested Appenines, and threaded by the + Nar, whose waters flow "with many windings, through the vale!" + </p> + <p> + At Otricoli, while dinner was preparing, I walked around the crumbling + battlements to look down into the valley and trace the far windings of the + Tiber. In rambling through the crooked streets, we saw everywhere the + remains of the splendor which this place boasted in the days of Rome. + Fragments of fluted pillars stood here and there in the streets; large + blocks of marble covered with sculpture and inscriptions were built into + the houses, defaced statues used as door-ornaments, and the steppingstone + to our rude inn, worn every day by the feet of grooms and vetturini, + contained some letters of an inscription which may have recorded the glory + of on emperor. + </p> + <p> + Traveling with a vetturino, is unquestionably the pleasantest way of + seeing Italy. The easy rate of the journey allows time for becoming well + acquainted with the country, and the tourist is freed from the annoyance + of quarrelling with cheating landlords. A translation of our written + contract, will best explain this mode of traveling: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "CARRIAGE" FOR ROME. + + "Our contract is, to be conducted to Rome for the sum of twenty + francs each, say 20f. and the <i>buona mano</i>, if we are well + served. We must have from the vetturino, Giuseppe Nerpiti, supper + each night, a free chamber with two beds, and fire, until we shall + arrive at Rome. + + "I, Geronymo Sartarelli, steward of the Inn of the White Cross, at + Foligno, in testimony of the above contract." +</pre> + <p> + Beyond Otricoli, we passed through some relics of an age anterior to Rome. + A few soiled masses of masonry, black with age, stood along the brow of + the mountain, on whose extremity were the ruins of a castle of the middle + ages. We crossed the Tiber on a bridge built by Augustus Cæsar, and + reached Borghetto as the sun was gilding with its last rays the ruined + citadel above. As the carriage with its four horses was toiling slowly up + the hill, we got out and walked before, to gaze on the green meadows of + the Tiber. + </p> + <p> + On descending from Narni, I noticed a high, prominent mountain, whose + ridgy back, somewhat like the profile of a face, reminded me of the + Traunstein, in Upper Austria. As we approached, its form gradually + changed, until it stood on the Campagna + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Like a long-swept wave about to break, + That on the curl hangs pausing"— +</pre> + <p> + and by that token of a great bard, I recognized Monte Soracte. The dragoon + took us by the arms, and away we scampered over the Campagna, with one of + the loveliest sunsets before us, that ever painted itself on my retina. I + cannot portray in words the glory that flooded the whole western heaven. + It was like a sea of melted ruby, amethyst and topaz—deep, dazzling + and of crystal transparency. The color changed in tone every few minutes, + till in half an hour it sank away before the twilight to a belt of deep + orange along the west. + </p> + <p> + We left Civita Castellana before daylight. The sky was red with dawn as we + approached Nepi, and we got out to walk, in the clear, frosty air. A + magnificent Roman aqueduct, part of it a double row of arches, still + supplies the town with water. There is a deep ravine, appearing as if rent + in the ground by some convulsion, on the eastern side of the city. A clear + stream that steals through the arches of the aqueduct, falls in a cascade + of sixty feet down into the chasm, sending up constant wreaths of spray + through the evergreen foliage that clothes the rocks. In walking over the + desolate Campagna, we saw many deep chambers dug in the earth, used by the + charcoal burners; the air was filled with sulphureous exhalations, very + offensive to the smell, which rose from the ground in many places. + </p> + <p> + Miles and miles of the dreary waste, covered only with flocks of grazing + sheep, were passed,—and about noon we reached Baccano, a small post + station, twenty miles from Rome. A long hill rose before us, and we sprang + out of the carriage and ran ahead, to see Rome from its summit. As we + approached the top, the Campagna spread far before and around us, level + and blue as an ocean. I climbed up a high bank by the roadside, and the + whole scene came in view. Perhaps eighteen miles distant rose the dome of + St. Peter's, near the horizon—a small spot on the vast plain. Beyond + it and further east, were the mountains of Albano—on our left + Soracte and the Appenines, and a blue line along the west betrayed the + Mediterranean. There was nothing peculiarly beautiful or sublime in the + landscape, but few other scenes on earth combine in one glance such a + myriad of mighty associations, or bewilder the mind with such a crowd of + confused emotions. + </p> + <p> + As we approached Rome, the dragoon, with whom we had been walking all day, + became anxious and impatient. He had not heard from his parents for a long + time, and knew not if they were living. His desire to be at the end of his + journey finally became so great, that he hailed a peasant who was driving + by in a light vehicle, left our slow carriage and went out of sight in a + gallop. + </p> + <p> + As we descended to the Tiber in the dusk of evening, the domes and spires + of Rome came gradually into view, St. Peter's standing like a mountain in + the midst of them. Crossing the yellow river by the Ponte Molle, two miles + of road, straight as an arrow, lay before us, with the light of the <i>Porta + del Popolo</i> at the end. I felt strangely excited as the old vehicle + rumbled through the arch, and we entered a square with fountains and an + obelisk of Egyptian granite in the centre. Delivering up our passports, we + waited until the necessary examinations were made, and then went forward. + Three streets branch out from the square, the middle one of which, leading + directly to the Capitol, is the Corso, the Roman Broadway. Our vetturino + chose that to the left, the Via della Scrofa, leading off towards the + bridge of St. Angelo. I looked out the windows as we drove along, but saw + nothing except butcher-shops, grocer-stores, etc.—horrible objects + for a sentimental traveler! + </p> + <p> + Being emptied out on the pavement at last, our first care was to find + rooms; after searching through many streets, with a coarse old Italian who + spoke like an angel, we arrived at a square where the music of a fountain + was heard through the dusk and an obelisk cut out some of the starlight. + At the other end I saw a portico through the darkness, and my heart gave a + breathless bound on recognizing the <i>Pantheon</i>—the matchless + temple of Ancient Rome! And now while I am writing, I hear the gush of the + fountain—and if I step to the window, I see the time-worn but still + glorious edifice. + </p> + <p> + On returning for our baggage, we met the funeral procession of the + Princess Altieri. Priests in white and gold carried flaming torches, and + the coffin, covered with a magnificent golden pall, was borne in a + splendid hearse, guarded by four priests. As we were settling our account + with the vetturino, who demanded much more <i>buona mano</i> than we were + willing to give, the young dragoon returned. He was greatly agitated. "I + have been at home!" said he, in a voice trembling with emotion. I was + about to ask him further concerning his family, but he kissed and embraced + us warmly and hurriedly, saying he had only come to say "addio!" and to + leave us. I stop writing to ramble through Rome. This city of all cities + to me—this dream of my boyhood—giant, god-like, fallen Rome—is + around me, and I revel in a glow of anticipation and exciting thought that + seems to change my whole state of being. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0040" id="link2HCH0040"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XL. + </h2> + <h3> + ROME. + </h3> + <p> + <i>Dec. 29.</i>—One day's walk through Rome—how shall I + describe it? The Capitol, the Forum, St. Peter's, the Coliseum—what + few hours' ramble ever took in places so hallowed by poetry, history and + art? It was a golden leaf in my calendar of life. In thinking over it now, + and drawing out the threads of recollection from the varied woof of + thought I have woven to-day, I almost wonder how I dared so much at once; + but within reach of them all, how was it possible to wait? Let me give a + sketch of our day's ramble. + </p> + <p> + Hearing that it was better to visit the ruins by evening or moonlight, + (alas! there is no moon now) we started out to hunt St. Peter's. Going in + the direction of the Corso, we passed the ruined front of the magnificent + Temple of Antoninus, now used as the Papal Custom House. We turned to the + right on entering the Corso, expecting to have a view of the city from the + hill at its southern end. It is a magnificent street, lined with palaces + and splendid edifices of every kind, and always filled with crowds of + carriages and people. On leaving it, however, we became bewildered among + the narrow streets—passed through a market of vegetables, crowded + with beggars and contadini—threaded many by-ways between dark old + buildings—saw one or two antique fountains and many modern churches, + and finally arrived at a hill. + </p> + <p> + We ascended many steps, and then descending a little towards the other + side, saw suddenly below us the <i>Roman Forum</i>! I knew it at once—and + those three Corinthian columns that stood near us—what could they be + but the remains of the temple of Jupiter Stator? We stood on the + Capitoline Hill; at the foot was the Arch of Septimus Severus, brown with + age and shattered; near it stood the majestic front of the Temple of + Fortune, its pillars of polished granite glistening in the sun, as if they + had been erected yesterday, while on the left the rank grass was waving + from the arches and mighty walls of the Palace of the Cæsars! In front, + ruin upon ruin lined the way for half a mile, where the Coliseum towered + grandly through the blue morning mist, at the base of the Esquiline Hill! + </p> + <p> + Good heavens, what a scene! Grandeur, such as the world never saw, once + rose through that blue atmosphere; splendor inconceivable, the spoils of a + world, the triumphs of a thousand armies had passed over that earth; minds + which for ages moved the ancient world had thought there, and words of + power and glory, from the lips of immortal men, had been syllabled on that + hallowed air. To call back all this on the very spot, while the wreck of + what once was, rose mouldering and desolate around, aroused a sublimity of + thought and feeling too powerful for words. + </p> + <p> + Returning at hazard through the streets, we came suddenly upon the column + of Trajan, standing in an excavated square below the level of the city, + amid a number of broken granite columns, which formed part of the Forum + dedicated to him by Rome, after the conquest of Dacia. The column is one + hundred and thirty-two feet high, entirely covered with bas-reliefs + representing his victories, winding about it in a spiral line to the top. + The number of figures is computed at two thousand five hundred, and they + were of such excellence that Raphael used many of them for his models. + They are now much defaced, and the column is surmounted by a statue of + some saint. The inscription on the pedestal has been erased, and the name + of Sixtus V. substituted. Nothing can exceed the ridiculous vanity of the + old popes in thus mutilating the finest monuments of ancient art. You + cannot look upon any relic of antiquity in Rome, but your eyes are + assailed by the words "PONTIFEX MAXIMUS," in staring modern letters. Even + the magnificent bronzes of the Pantheon were stripped to make the + baldachin under the dome of St. Peter's. + </p> + <p> + Finding our way back again, we took a fresh start, happily in the right + direction, and after walking some time, came out on the Tiber, at the + Bridge of St. Angelo. The river rolled below in his muddy glory, and in + front, on the opposite bank, stood "the pile which Hadrian retired on + high"—<i>now</i>, the Castle of St. Angelo. Knowing that St. Peter's + was to he seen from this bridge, I looked about in search of it. There was + only one dome in sight, large and of beautiful proportions. I said at + once, "surely <i>that</i> cannot be St. Peter's!" On looking again, + however, I saw the top of a massive range of building near it, which + corresponded so nearly with the pictures of the Vatican, that I was + unwillingly forced to believe the mighty dome was really before me. I + recognized it as one of those we saw from the Capitol, but it appeared so + much smaller when viewed from a greater distance, that I was quite + deceived. On considering we were still three-fourths of a mile from it, + and that we could see its minutest parts distinctly, the illusion was + explained. + </p> + <p> + Going directly down the <i>Borgo Vecchio</i>, towards it, it seemed a long + time before we arrived at the square of St. Peter's; when at length we + stood in front with the majestic colonnade sweeping around—the + fountains on each side sending up their showers of silvery spray—the + mighty obelisk of Egyptian granite piercing the sky—and beyond, the + great front and dome of the Cathedral, I confessed my unmingled + admiration. It recalled to my mind the grandeur of ancient Rome, and + mighty as her edifices must have been, I doubt if there were many views + more overpowering than this. The façade of St. Peter's seemed close to us, + but it was a third of a mile distant, and the people ascending the steps + dwindled to pigmies. + </p> + <p> + I passed the obelisk, went up the long ascent, crossed the portico, pushed + aside the heavy leathern curtain at the entrance, and stood in the great + nave. I need not describe my feelings at the sight, but I will tell the + dimensions, and you may then fancy what they were. Before me was a marble + plain six hundred feet long, and under the cross four hundred and + seventeen feet wide! One hundred and fifty feet above, sprang a glorious + arch, dazzling with inlaid gold, and in the centre of the cross there were + four hundred feet of air between me and the top of the dome! The sunbeam, + stealing through the lofty window at one end of the transept, made a bar + of light on the blue air, hazy with incense, one-tenth of a mile long, + before it fell on the mosaics and gilded shrines of the other extremity. + The grand cupola alone, including lantern and cross, is two hundred and + eighty-five feet high, or sixty feet higher than the Bunker Hill Monument, + and the four immense pillars on which it rests are each one hundred and + thirty-seven feet in circumference! It seems as if human art had outdone + itself in producing this temple—the grandest which the world ever + erected for the worship of the Living God! The awe felt in looking up at + the giant arch of marble and gold, did not humble me; on the contrary, I + felt exalted, ennobled—beings in the form I wore planned the + glorious edifice, and it seemed that in godlike power perseverance, they + were indeed but "a little lower than the angels!" I felt that, if fallen, + my race was still mighty and immortal. + </p> + <p> + The Vatican is only open twice a week, on days which are not <i>festas</i>; + most fortunately, to-day happened to be one of these, and we took a <i>run</i> + through its endless halls. The extent and magnificence of the gallery of + sculpture is perfectly amazing. The halls, which are filled to overflowing + with the finest works of ancient art, would, if placed side by side, make + a row more than two miles in length! You enter at once into a hall of + marble, with a magnificent arched ceiling, a third of a mile long; the + sides are covered for a great distance with inscriptions of every kind, + divided into compartments according to the era of the empire to which they + refer. One which I examined, appeared to be a kind of index of the roads + in Italy, with the towns on them; and we could decipher on that time-worn + block, the very route I had followed from Florence hither. + </p> + <p> + Then came the statues, and here I am bewildered, how to describe them. + Hundreds upon hundreds of figures—statues of citizens, generals, + emperors and gods—fauns, satyrs and nymphs—children, cupids + and tritons—in fact, it seemed inexhaustible. Many of them, too, + were forms of matchless beauty; there were Venuses and nymphs, born of the + loftiest dreams of grace; fauns on whose faces shone the very soul of + humor, and heroes and divinities with an air of majesty worthy the "land + of lost gods and godlike men!" + </p> + <p> + I am lost in astonishment at the perfection of art attained by the Greeks + and Romans. There is scarcely a form of beauty, that has ever met my eye, + which is not to be found in this gallery. I should almost despair of such + another blaze of glory on the world, were it not my devout belief that + what has been done may be done again, and had I not faith that the dawn in + which we live will bring another day equally glorious. And why should not + America, with the experience and added wisdom which three thousand years + have slowly yielded to the old world, joined to the giant energy of her + youth and freedom, re-bestow on the world the divine creations of art? Let + Powers answer! + </p> + <p> + But let us step on to the hemicycle of the Belvidere, and view some works + greater than any we have yet seen, or even imagined. The adjoining gallery + is filled with masterpieces of sculpture, but we will keep our eyes + unwearied and merely glance along the rows. At length we reach a circular + court with a fountain flinging up its waters in the centre. Before us is + an open cabinet; there is a beautiful, manly form within, but you would + not for an instant take it for the Apollo. By the Gorgon head it holds + aloft, we recognize Canova's Perseus—he has copied the form and + attitude of the Apollo, but he could not breathe into it the same warming + fire. It seemed to me particularly lifeless, and I greatly preferred his + Boxers, who stand on either side of it. One, who has drawn back in the + attitude of striking, looks as if he could fell an ox with a single blow + of his powerful arm. The other is a more lithe and agile figure, and there + is a quick fire in his countenance which might overbalance the massive + strength of his opponent. + </p> + <p> + Another cabinet—this is the far-famed Antinous. A countenance of + perfect Grecian beauty, with a form such as we would imagine for one of + Homer's heroes. His features are in repose, and there is something in + their calm, settled expression, strikingly like life. + </p> + <p> + Now we look on a scene of the deepest physical agony. Mark how every + muscle of old Laocoon's body is distended to the utmost in the mighty + struggle! What intensity of pain in the quivering, distorted, features! + Every nerve, which despair can call into action, is excited in one giant + effort, and a scream of anguish seems just to have quivered on those + marble lips. The serpents have rolled their strangling coils around father + and sons, but terror has taken away the strength of the latter, and they + make but feeble resistance. After looking with indifference on the many + casts of this group, I was the more moved by the magnificent original. It + deserves all the admiration that has been heaped upon it. + </p> + <p> + I absolutely trembled on approaching the cabinet of the Apollo, I had + built up in fancy a glorious ideal, drawn from all that bards have sung or + artists have rhapsodized about its divine beauty. I feared disappointment—I + dreaded to have my ideal displaced and my faith in the power of human + genius overthrown by a form less than perfect. However, with a feeling of + desperate excitement, I entered and looked upon it. + </p> + <p> + Now what shall I say of it? How make you comprehend its immortal beauty? + To what shall I liken its glorious perfection of form, or the fire that + imbues the cold marble with the soul of a god? Not with sculpture, for it + stands alone and above all other works of art—nor with men, for it + has a majesty more than human. I gazed on it, lost in wonder and joy—joy + that I could, at last, take into my mind a faultless ideal of godlike, + exalted manhood. The figure appears actually to possess a spirit, and I + looked on it, not as on a piece of marble, but a being of loftier mould, + and half expected to see him step forward when the arrow had reached its + mark. I would give worlds to feel one moment the sculptor's mental triumph + when his work was completed; that one exulting thrill must have repaid him + for every ill he might have suffered on earth! With what divine + inspiration has he wrought its faultless lines! There is a spirit in every + limb which mere toil could not have given. It must have been caught in + those lofty moments. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "When each conception was a heavenly guest—a + ray of immortality—and stood + star-like, around, until they gathered to a god?" +</pre> + <p> + We ran through a series of halls, roofed with golden stars on a deep blue, + midnight sky, and filled with porphyry vases, black marble gods, and + mummies. Some of the statues shone with the matchless polish they had + received from a Theban artisan before Athens was founded, and are, + apparently, as fresh and perfect as when looked upon by the vassals of + Sesostris. Notwithstanding their stiff, rough-hewn limbs, there were some + figures of great beauty, and they gave me a much higher idea of Egyptian + sculpture. In an adjoining hall, containing colossal busts of the gods, is + a vase forty-one feet in circumference, of one solid block of red + porphyry. + </p> + <p> + The "Transfiguration" is truly called the first picture in the world. The + same glow of inspiration which created the Belvidere, must have been + required to paint the Saviour's aerial form. The three figures hover above + the earth in a blaze of glory, seemingly independent of all material laws. + The terrified Apostles on the mount, and the wondering group below, + correspond in the grandeur of their expression to the awe and majesty of + the scene. The only blemish in the sublime perfection of the picture is + the introduction of the two small figures on the left hand; who, + by-the-bye, were Cardinals, inserted there by command. Some travelers say + the color is all lost, but I was agreeably surprised to find it well + preserved. It is, undoubtedly, somewhat imperfect in this respect, as + Raphael died before it was entirely finished; but "take it all in all," + you may search the world in vain to find its equal. + </p> + <p> + <i>January 1, 1846.</i>—New Year's Day in the Eternal City! It will + be something to say in after years, that I have seen one year open in <i>Rome</i>—that, + while my distant friends were making up for the winter without, with good + cheer around the merry board, I have walked in sunshine by the ruins of + the Coliseum, watched the orange groves gleaming with golden fruitage in + the Farnese gardens, trodden the daisied meadow around the sepulchre of + Caius Cestius, and mused by the graves of Shelley, Keats and Salvator + Rosa! The Palace of the Cassars looked even more mournful in the pale, + slant sunshine, and the yellow Tiber, as he flowed through the "marble + wilderness," seemed sullenly counting up the long centuries during which + degenerate slaves have trodden his banks. A leaden-colored haze clothed + the seven hills, and heavy silence reigned among the ruins, for all work + was prohibited, and the people were gathered in their churches. Rome never + appeared so desolate and melancholy as to-day. + </p> + <p> + In the morning I climbed the Quirinal Hill, now called Monte Cavallo, from + the colossal statues of Castor and Pollux, with their steeds, supposed to + be the work of Phidias and Praxiteles. They stand on each side of an + obelisk of Egyptian granite, beside which a strong stream of water gushes + up into a magnificent bronze basin, found in the old Forum. The statues, + entirely browned by age, are considered masterpieces of Grecian art, and + whether or not from the great masters, show in all their proportions, the + conceptions of lofty genius. + </p> + <p> + We kept on our way between gardens filled with orange groves, whose + glowing fruit reminded me of Mignon's beautiful reminiscence—"Im + dunkeln Laub die Gold Orangen glühn!" Rome, although subject to cold winds + from the Appenines, enjoys so mild a climate that oranges and palm trees + grow in the open air, without protection. Daisies and violets bloom the + whole winter, in the meadows of never-fading green. The basilic of the + Lateran equals St. Peter's in splendor, though its size is much smaller. + The walls are covered with gorgeous hangings of velvet embroidered with + gold, and before the high altar, which glitters with precious stones, are + four pillars of gilt bronze, said to be those which Augustus made of the + spars of Egyptian vessels captured at the battle of Actium. + </p> + <p> + We descended the hill to the Coliseum, and passing under the Arch of + Constantine, walked along the ancient triumphal way, at the foot of the + Palatine Hill, which is entirely covered with the ruins of the Cæsars' + Palace. A road, rounding its southern base towards the Tiber, brought us + to the Temple of Vesta—a beautiful little relic which has been + singularly spared by the devastations that have overthrown so many + mightier fabrics. It is of circular form, surrounded by nineteen + Corinthian columns, thirty-six feet in height; a clumsy tiled roof now + takes the place of the elegant cornice which once gave the crowning charm + to its perfect proportions. Close at hand are the remains of the temple of + Fortuna Virilis, of which some Ionic pillars alone are left, and the house + of Cola di Rienzi—the last Tribune of Rome. + </p> + <p> + As we approached the walls, the sepulchre of Caius Cestius came in sight—a + single solid pyramid, one hundred feet in height. The walls are built + against it, and the light apex rises far above the massive gate beside it, + which was erected by Belisarius. But there were other tombs at hand, for + which we had more sympathy than that of the forgotten Roman, and we turned + away to look for the graves of Shelley and Keats. + </p> + <p> + They lie in the Protestant burying ground, on the side of a mound that + slopes gently up to the old wall of Rome, beside the pyramid of Cestius. + The meadow around is still verdant and sown thick with daisies, and the + soft green of the Italian pine mingles with the dark cypress above the + slumberers. Huge aloes grow in the shade, and the sweet bay and bushes of + rosemary make the air fresh and fragrant. There is a solemn, mournful + beauty about the place, green and lonely as it is, beside the tottering + walls of ancient Rome, that takes away the gloomy associations of death, + and makes one wish to lie there, too, when his thread shall be spun to the + end. + </p> + <p> + We found first the simple head-stone of Keats, alone, in the grassy + meadow. Its inscription states that on his death-bed, in the bitterness of + his heart, at the malice of his enemies, be desired these words to be + written on his tombstone: "<i>Here lies one whose name was written in + water</i>." Not far from him reposes the son of Shelley. + </p> + <p> + Shelley himself lies at the top of the shaded slope, in a lonely spot by + the wall, surrounded by tall cypresses. A little hedge of rose and bay + surrounds his grave, which bears the simple inscription— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY; <i>Cor Cordium</i>." + + "Nothing of him that doth fade, + But doth suffer a sea-change + Into something rich and strange." +</pre> + <p> + Glorious, but misguided Shelley! He sleeps calmly now in that silent nook, + and the air around his grave is filled with sighs from those who mourn + that the bright, erratic star should have been blotted out ere it reached + the zenith of its mounting fame. I plucked a leaf from the fragrant bay, + as a token of his fame, and a sprig of cypress from the bough that bent + lowest over his grave; and passing between tombs shaded with blooming + roses or covered with unwithered garlands, left the lovely spot. + </p> + <p> + Amid the excitement of continually changing scenes, I have forgotten to + mention our first visit to the Coliseum. The day after our arrival we set + out with two English friends, to see it by sunset. Passing by the glorious + fountain of Trevi, we made our way to the Forum, and from thence took the + road to the Coliseum, lined on both sides with the remains of splendid + edifices. The grass-grown ruins of the Palace of the Cæsars stretched + along on our right; on our left we passed in succession the granite front + of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, the three grand arches of the + Temple of Peace and the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Rome. We went + under the ruined triumphal arch of Titus, with broken friezes representing + the taking of Jerusalem, and the mighty walls of the Coliseum gradually + rose before us. They grew in grandeur as we approached them, and when at + length we stood in the centre, with the shattered arches and grassy walls + rising above and beyond one another, far around us, the red light of + sunset giving them a soft and melancholy beauty, I was fain to confess + that another form of grandeur had entered my mind, of which I before knew + not. + </p> + <p> + A majesty like that of nature clothes this wonderful edifice. Walls rise + above walls, and arches above arches, from every side of the grand arena, + like a sweep of craggy, pinnacled mountains around an oval lake. The two + outer circles have almost entirely disappeared, torn away by the rapacious + nobles of Rome, during the middle ages, to build their palaces. When + entire, and filled with its hundred thousand spectators, it must have + exceeded any pageant which the world can now produce. No wonder it was + said— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; + When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall; + And when Rome falls, the world!" +</pre> + <p> + —a prediction, which time has not verified. The world is now going + forward, prouder than ever, and though we thank Rome for the legacy she + has left us, we would not wish the dust of her ruin to cumber our path. + </p> + <p> + While standing in the arena, impressed with the spirit of the scene around + me, which grew more spectral and melancholy as the dusk of evening began + to fill up the broken arches, my eye was assailed by the shrines ranged + around the space, doubtless to remove the pollution of paganism. In the + middle stands also a cross, with an inscription, granting an absolution of + forty days to all who kiss it. Now, although a simple cross in the centre + might be very appropriate, both as a token of the heroic devotion of the + martyr Telemachus and the triumph of a true religion over the barbarities + of the Past, this congregation of shrines and bloody pictures mars very + much the unity of association so necessary to the perfect enjoyment of any + such scene. + </p> + <p> + We saw the flush of sunset fade behind the Capitoline Hill, and passed + homeward by the Forum, as its shattered pillars were growing solemn and + spectral through the twilight. I intend to visit them often again, and + "meditate amongst decay." I begin already to grow attached to their lonely + grandeur. A spirit, almost human, speaks from the desolation, and there is + something in the voiceless oracles it utters, that strikes an answering + chord in my own breast. + </p> + <p> + In the <i>Via de' Pontefici</i>, not far distant from the Borghese Palace, + we saw the Mausoleum of Augustus. It is a large circular structure + somewhat after the plan of that of Hadrian, but on a much smaller scale. + The interior has been cleared out, seats erected around the walls, and the + whole is now a summer theatre, for the amusement of the peasantry and + tradesmen. What a commentary on greatness! Harlequin playing his pranks in + the tomb of an Emperor, and the spot which nations approached with + reverence, resounding with the mirth of beggars and degraded vassals! + </p> + <p> + I visited lately the studio of a young Philadelphian, Mr. W. B. Chambers, + who has been here two or three years. In studying the legacies of art + which the old masters left to their country, he has caught some of the + genuine poetic inspiration which warmed them. But he is modest as + talented, and appears to undervalue his works, so long as they do not + reach his own mental ideal. He chooses principally subjects from the + Italian peasant-life, which abounds with picturesque and classic beauty. + His pictures of the shepherd boy of the Albruzzi, and the brown maidens of + the Campagna are fine illustrations of this class, and the fidelity with + which he copies nature, is an earnest of his future success. + </p> + <p> + I was in the studio of Crawford, the sculptor; he has at present nothing + finished in the marble. There were many casts of his former works, which, + judging from their appearance in plaster, must be of no common excellence—for + the sculptor can only be justly judged <i>in marble</i>. I saw some fine + bas-reliefs of classical subjects, and an exquisite group of Mercury and + Psyche, but his masterpiece is undoubtedly the Orpheus. There is a spirit + in this figure which astonished me. The face is full of the inspiration of + the poet, softened by the lover's tenderness, and the whole fervor of his + soul is expressed in the eagerness with which he gazes forward, on + stepping past the sleeping Cerberus. Crawford is now engaged on the statue + of an Indian girl, pierced by an arrow, and dying. It is a simple and + touching figure, and will, I think, be one of his best works. + </p> + <p> + We are often amused with the groups in the square of the Pantheon, which + we can see from our chamber-window. Shoemakers and tinkers carry on their + business along the sunny side, while the venders of oranges and roasted + chesnuts form a circle around the Egyptian obelisk and fountain. Across + the end of an opposite street we get a glimpse of the vegetable-market, + and now and then the shrill voice of a pedlar makes its nasal solo audible + above the confused chorus. As the beggars choose the Corso, St. Peter's, + and the ruins for their principal haunts, we are now spared the hearing of + their lamentations. Every time we go out we are assailed with them. "<i>Maladetta + sia la vostra testa</i>!"—"Curses be upon your head!"—said one + whom I passed without notice. The priests are, however, the greatest + beggars. In every church are kept offering boxes, for the support of the + church or some unknown institution; they even go from house to house, + imploring support and assistance in the name of the Virgin and all the + saints, while their bloated, sensual countenances and capacious frames + tell of anything but fasts and privations. Once, as I was sitting among + the ruins, I was suddenly startled by a loud, rattling sound; turning my + head, I saw a figure clothed in white from head to foot, with only two + small holes for the eyes. He held in his hand a money-box, on which was a + figure of the Virgin, which he held close to my lips, that I might kiss + it. This I declined doing, but dropped a baiocco into his box, when, + making the sign of the cross, he silently disappeared. + </p> + <p> + Our present lodging (Trattoria del Sole) is a good specimen of an Italian + inn for mechanics and common tradesmen. Passing through the front room, + which is an eating-place for the common people—with a barrel of wine + in the corner, and bladders of lard hanging among orange boughs in the + window—we enter a dark court-yard filled with heavy carts, and noisy + with the neighing of horses and singing of grooms, for the stables occupy + part of the house. An open staircase, running all around this hollow + square, leads to the second, third, and fourth stories, + </p> + <p> + On the second story is the dining-room for the better class of travelers, + who receive the same provisions as those below for double the price, and + the additional privilege of giving the waiter two baiocchi. The sleeping + apartments are in the fourth story, and are named according to the fancy + of a former landlord, in mottos above each door. Thus, on arriving here, + the Triester, with his wife and child, more fortunate than our first + parents, took refuge in "Paradise," while we Americans were ushered into + the "Chamber of Jove." We have occupied it ever since, and find a paul + (ten cents) apiece cheap enough for a good bed and a window opening on the + Pantheon. + </p> + <p> + Next to the Coliseum, the baths of Caracalla are the grandest remains of + Rome. The building is a thousand feet square, and its massive walls look + as if built by a race of giants. These Titan remains are covered with + green shrubbery, and long, trailing vines sweep over the cornice, and wave + down like tresses from architrave and arch. In some of its grand halls the + mosaic pavement is yet entire. The excavations are still carried on; from + the number of statues already found, this would seem to have been one of + the most gorgeous edifices of the olden time. + </p> + <p> + I have been now several days loitering and sketching among the ruins, and + I feel as if I could willingly wander for months beside these mournful + relics, and draw inspiration from the lofty yet melancholy lore they + teach. There is a spirit haunting them, real and undoubted. Every + shattered column, every broken arch and mouldering wall, but calls up more + vividly to mind the glory that has passed away. Each lonely pillar stands + as proudly as if it still helped to bear up the front of a glorious + temple, and the air seems scarcely to have ceased vibrating with the + clarions that heralded a conqueror's triumph. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "—the old majestic trees + Stand ghost-like in the Cæsar's home, + As if their conscious roots were set + In the old graves of giant Rome, + And drew their sap all kingly yet!" + +</pre> + <hr /> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "There every mouldering stone beneath + Is broken from some mighty thought, + And sculptures in the dust still breathe + The fire with which their lines were wrought, + And sunder'd arch and plundered tomb + Still thunder back the echo—'<i>Rome!</i>'" +</pre> + <p> + In Rome there is no need that the imagination be excited to call up + thrilling emotion or poetic reverie—they are forced on the mind by + the sublime spirit of the scene. The roused bard might here pour forth his + thoughts in the wildest climaces, and I could believe he felt it all. This + is like the Italy of my dreams—that golden realm whose image has + been nearly chased away by the earthly reality. I expected to find a land + of light and beauty, where every step crushed a flower or displaced a + sunbeam—whose very air was poetic inspiration, and whose every scene + filled the soul with romantic feelings. Nothing is left of my picture but + the far-off mountains, robed in the sapphire veil of the Ausonian air, and + these ruins, amid whose fallen glory sits triumphant the spirit of ancient + song. + </p> + <p> + I have seen the flush of morn and eve rest on the Coliseum; I have seen + the noon-day sky framed in its broken loopholes, like plates of polished + sapphire; and last night, as the moon has grown into the zenith, I went to + view it with her. Around the Forum all was silent and spectral—a + sentinel challenged us at the Arch of Titus, under which we passed and + along the Cæsar's wall, which lay in black shadow. Dead stillness brooded + around the Coliseum; the pale, silvery lustre streamed through its arches, + and over the grassy walls, giving them a look of shadowy grandeur which + day could not bestow. The scene will remain fresh in my memory forever. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0041" id="link2HCH0041"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLI. — TIVOLI AND THE ROMAN CAMPAGNA. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Jan. 9.</i>—A few days ago we returned from an excursion to + Tivoli, one of the loveliest spots in Italy. We left the Eternal City by + the Gate of San Lorenzo, and twenty minutes walk brought us to the bare + and bleak Campagna, which was spread around us for leagues in every + direction. Here and there a shepherd-boy in his woolly coat, with his + flock of browsing sheep, were the only objects that broke its desert-like + monotony. + </p> + <p> + At the fourth mile we crossed the rapid Anio, the ancient Teverone, + formerly the boundary between Latium and the Sabine dominions, and at the + tenth, came upon some fragments of the old Tibertine way, formed of large + irregular blocks of basaltic lava. A short distance further, we saw across + the plain the ruins of the bath of Agrippa, built by the side of the + Tartarean Lake. The wind, blowing from it, bore us an overpowering smell + of sulphur; the waters of the little river Solfatara, which crosses the + road, are of a milky blue color, and carry those of the lake into the + Anio. A fragment of the old bridge over it still remains. + </p> + <p> + Finding the water quite warm, we determined to have a bath. So we ran down + the plain, which was covered with a thick coat of sulphur, and sounded + hollow to our tread, till we reached a convenient place, where we threw + off our clothes, and plunged in. The warm wave was delightful to the skin, + but extremely offensive to the smell, and when we came out, our mouths and + throats were filled with the stifling gas. + </p> + <p> + It was growing dark as we mounted through the narrow streets of Tivoli, + but we endeavored to gain some sight of the renowned beauties of the spot, + before going to rest. From a platform on a brow of the hill, we looked + down into the defile, at whose bottom the Anio was roaring, and caught a + sideward glance of the Cascatelles, sending up their spray amid the + evergreen bushes that fringe the rocks. Above the deep glen that curves + into the mountain, stands the beautiful temple of the Sybil—a + building of the most perfect and graceful proportion. It crests the "rocky + brow" like a fairy dwelling, and looks all the lovelier for the wild + caverns below. Gazing downward from the bridge, one sees the waters of the + Anio tumbling into the picturesque grotto of the Sirens; around a rugged + corner, a cloud of white spray whirls up continually, while the boom of a + cataract rumbles down the glen. All these we marked in the deepening dusk, + and then hunted an albergo. + </p> + <p> + The shrill-voiced hostess gave us a good supper and clean beds; in return + we diverted the people very much by the relation of our sulphur bath. We + were awakened in the night by the wind shaking the very soul out of our + loose casement. I fancied I heard torrents of rain dashing against the + panes, and groaned in bitterness of spirit on thinking of a walk back to + Rome in such weather. When morning came, we found it was only a hurricane + of wind which was strong enough to tear off pieces of the old roofs. I saw + some capuchins nearly overturned in crossing the square, by the wind + seizing their white robes. + </p> + <p> + I had my fingers frozen and my eyes filled with sand, in trying to draw + the Sybil's temple, and therefore left it to join my companions, who had + gone down into the glen to see the great cascade. The Anio bursts out of a + cavern in the mountain-side, and like a prisoner giddy with recovered + liberty, reels over the edge of a precipice more than two hundred feet + deep. The bottom is hid in a cloud of boiling spray, that shifts from side + to side, and driven by the wind, sweeps whistling down the narrow pass. It + stuns the ear with a perpetual boom, giving a dash of grandeur to the + enrapturing beauty of the scene. I tried a footpath that appeared to lead + down to the Cascatelles, but after advancing some distance along the side + of an almost perpendicular precipice, I came to a corner that looked so + dangerous, especially as the wind was nearly strong enough to carry me + off, that it seemed safest to return. We made another vain attempt to get + down, by creeping along the bed of a torrent, filled with briars. The + Cascatelles are formed by that part of the Anio, which is used in the iron + works, made out of the ruins of Mecænas' villa. They gush out from under + the ancient arches, and tumble more than a hundred feet down the + precipice, their white waters gleaming out from the dark and feathery + foliage. Not far distant are the remains of the villa of Horace. + </p> + <p> + We took the road to Frascati, and walked for miles among cane-swamps and + over plains covered with sheep. The people we saw, were most degraded and + ferocious-looking, and there were many I would not willingly meet alone + after nightfall. Indeed it is still considered quite unsafe to venture + without the walls of Rome, after dark. The women, with their yellow + complexions, and the bright red blankets they wear folded around the head + and shoulders, resemble Indian Squaws. + </p> + <p> + I lately spent three hours in the Museum of the Capitol, on the summit of + the sacred hill. In the hall of the Gladiator I noticed an exquisite + statue of Diana. There is a pure, virgin grace in the classic outlines of + the figure that keeps the eye long upon it. The face is full of cold, + majestic dignity, but it is the ideal of a being to be worshipped, rather + than loved. The Faun of Praxiteles, in the same room, is a glorious work; + it is the perfect embodiment of that wild, merry race the Grecian poets + dreamed of. One looks on the Gladiator with a hushed breath and an awed + spirit. He is dying; the blood flows more slowly from the deep wound in + his side; his head is sinking downwards, and the arm that supports his + body becomes more and more nerveless. You feel that a dull mist is coming + over his vision, and almost wait to see his relaxing limbs sink suddenly + on his shield. That the rude, barbarian form has a soul, may be read in + his touchingly expressive countenance. It warms the sympathies like + reality to look upon it. Yet how many Romans may have gazed on this work, + moved nearly to tears, who have seen hundreds perish in the arena without + a pitying emotion! Why is it that Art has a voice frequently more powerful + than Nature? + </p> + <p> + How cold it is here! I was forced to run home to-night, nearly at full + speed, from the Café delle <i>Belle Arti</i> through the Corso and the + Piazza Colonna, to keep warm. The clear, frosty moon threw the shadow of + the column of Antoninus over me as I passed, and it made me shiver to look + at the thin, falling sheet of the fountain. Winter is winter everywhere, + and even the sun of Italy cannot always scorch his icy wings. + </p> + <p> + Two days ago we took a ramble outside the walls. Passing the Coliseum and + Caracalla's Baths, we reached the tomb of Scipio, a small sepulchral + vault, near the roadside. The ashes of the warrior were scattered to the + winds long ago, and his mausoleum is fast falling to decay. The old arch + over the Appian way is still standing, near the modern <i>Porta San + Sebastiano</i> through which we entered on the far-famed road. Here and + there it is quite entire, and we walked over the stones once worn by the + feet of Virgil and Horace and Cicero. After passing the temple of Romulus—a + shapeless and ivy-grown ruin—and walking a mile or more beyond the + walls, we reached the Circus of Caracalla, whose long and shattered walls + fill the hollow of one of the little dells of the Campagna. The original + structure must have been of great size and splendor, but those twin + Vandals—Time and Avarice—have stripped away everything but the + lofty brick masses, whose nakedness the pitying ivy strives to cover. + </p> + <p> + Further, on a gentle slope, is the tomb of "the wealthiest Roman's wife," + familiar to every one through Childe Harold's musings. It is a round, + massive tower, faced with large blocks of marble, and still bearing the + name of Cecilia Metella. One side is much ruined, and the top is overgrown + with grass and wild bushes. The wall is about thirty feet thick, so that + but a small round space is left in the interior, which is open to the rain + and filled will rubbish. The echoes pronounced hollowly after us the name + of the dead for whom it was built, but they could tell us nothing of her + life's history— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "How lived, how loved, how died she?" +</pre> + <p> + I made a hurried drawing of it, and we then turned to the left, across the + Campagna, to seek the grotto of Egeria. Before us, across the brown plain, + extended the Sabine Mountains; in the clear air the houses of Tivoli, + twenty miles distant, were plainly visible. The giant aqueduct stretched + in a long line across the Campagna to the mountain of Albano, its broken + and disjointed arches resembling the vertebræ of some mighty monster. With + the ruins of temples and tombs strewing the plain for miles around it, it + might be called the <i>spine</i> to the skeleton of Rome. + </p> + <p> + We passed many ruins, made beautiful by the clinging ivy, and reached a + solemn grove of ever-green oak, overlooking a secluded valley. I was soon + in the meadow, leaping ditches, rustling through cane-brakes, and climbing + up to mossy arches to find out the fountain of Numa's nymph; while my + companion, who had less taste for the romantic, looked on complacently + from the leeward side of the hill. At length we found an arched vault in + the hill-side, overhung with wild vines, and shaded in summer by + umbrageous trees that grow on the soil above. At the further end a stream + of water gushed out from beneath a broken statue, and an aperture in the + wall revealed a dark cavern behind. This, then, was "Egeria's grot." The + ground was trampled by the feet of cattle, and the taste of the water was + anything but pleasant. But it was not for Numa and his nymph alone, that I + sought it so ardently. The sunbeam of another mind lingers on the spot. + See how it gilds the ruined and neglected fount! + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The mosses of thy fountain still are sprinkled + With thine Elysian water-drops; the face + Of thy cave-guarded spring, with years unwrinkled, + Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place, + Whose wild, green margin, now no more erase + Art's works; no more its sparkling waters sleep, + Prisoned in marble; bubbling from the base + Of the cleft statue, with a gentle leap, + The rill runs o'er, and 'round, fern, flowers and ivy creep, + Fantastically tangled." +</pre> + <p> + I tried to creep into the grotto, but it was unpleasantly dark, and no + nymph appeared to chase away the shadow with her lustrous eyes. The whole + hill is pierced by subterranean chambers and passages. + </p> + <p> + I spent another Sunday morning in St. Peter's. High mass was being + celebrated in one of the side Chapels, and a great number of the + priesthood were present. The music was simple, solemn, and very + impressive, and a fine effect was produced by the combination of the full, + sonorous voices of the priests, and the divine sweetness of that band of + mutilated unfortunates, who sing here. They sang with a full, clear tone, + sweet as the first lispings of a child, but it was painful to hear that + melody, purchased at the expense of manhood. + </p> + <p> + Near the dome is a bronze statue of St. Peter, which seems to have a + peculiar atmosphere of sanctity. People say their prayers before it by + hundreds, and then kiss its toe, which is nearly worn away by the + application of so many thousand lips. I saw a crowd struggle most + irreverently to pay their devotion to it. There was a great deal of + jostling and confusion; some went so far as to thrust the faces of others + against the toe as they were about to kiss it. What is more remarkable, it + is an antique statue of Jupiter, taken, I believe, from the Pantheon. An + English artist, showing it to a friend, just arrived in Rome, remarked + very wittily that it was the statue of <i>Jew-Peter</i>. + </p> + <p> + I went afterwards to the Villa Borghese, outside the Porta del Popolo. The + gardens occupy thirty or forty acres, and are always thronged in the + afternoon with the carriages of the Roman and foreign nobility. In summer, + it must be a heavenly place; even now, with its musical fountains, long + avenues, and grassy slopes, crowned with the fan-like branches of the + Italian pine, it reminds one of the fairy landscapes of Boccaccio. We + threaded our way through the press of carriages on the Pincian hill, and + saw the enormous bulk of St. Peter's loom up against the sunset sky. I + counted forty domes and spires in that part of Rome that lay below us—but + on what a marble glory looked that sun eighteen centuries ago! Modern Rome—it + is in comparison, a den of filth, cheats and beggars! + </p> + <p> + Yesterday, while taking a random stroll through the city, I visited the + church of St. Onofrio, where Tasso is buried. It is not far from St. + Peter's, on the summit of a lonely hill. The building was closed, but an + old monk admitted us on application. The interior is quite small, but very + old, and the floor is covered with the tombs of princes and prelates of a + past century. Near the end I found a small slab with the inscription: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "TORQUATI TASSI + OSSA + HIC JACENT." +</pre> + <p> + That was all—but what more was needed? Who knows not the name and + fame and sufferings of the glorious bard? The pomp of gold and marble are + not needed to deck the slumber of genius. On the wall, above, hangs an old + and authentic portrait of him, very similar to the engravings in + circulation. A crown of laurel encircles the lofty brow, and the eye has + that wild, mournful expression, which accords so well with the mysterious + tale of his love and madness. + </p> + <p> + Owing to the mountain storms, which imposed on us the expense of a + carriage-journey to Rome, we shall be prevented from going further. One + great cause of this is the heavy fee required for passports in Italy. In + most of the Italian cities, the cost of the different visès amounts to $4 + or $5; a few such visits as these reduce our funds very materially. The + American Consul's fee is $2, owing to the illiberal course of our + government, in withholding all salary from her Consuls in Europe. Mr. + Brown, however, in whose family we spent last evening very pleasantly, on + our requesting that he would deduct something from the usual fee, kindly + declined accepting anything. We felt this kindness the more, as from the + character which some of our late Consuls bear in Italy, we had not + anticipated it. We shall remember him with deeper gratitude than many + would suppose, who have never known what it was to be a <i>foreigner</i>. + </p> + <p> + To-morrow, therefore, we leave Rome—here is, at last, the limit of + our wanderings. We have spent much toil and privation to reach here, and + now, after two weeks' rambling and musing among the mighty relics of past + glory, we turn our faces homeward. The thrilling hope I cherished during + the whole pilgrimage—to climb Parnassus and drink from Castaly, + under the blue heaven of Greece (both far easier than the steep hill and + hidden fount of poesy, I worship afar off)—to sigh for fallen art, + beneath the broken friezes of the Parthenon, and look with a pilgrim's eye + on the isles of Homer and of Sappho—must be given up, unwillingly + and sorrowfully though it be. These glorious anticipations—among the + brightest that blessed my boyhood—are slowly wrung from me by stern + necessity. Even Naples, the lovely Parthenope, where the Mantuan bard + sleeps on the sunny shore, by the bluest of summer seas, with the + disinterred Pompeii beyond, and Pæstum amid its roses on the lonely + Calabrian plain—even this, almost within sight of the cross of St. + Peter's, is barred from me. Farewell then, clime of "fame and eld," since + it must be! A pilgrim's blessing for the lore ye have taught him! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0042" id="link2HCH0042"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLII. — + </h2> + <p> + <i>Palo.</i>—The sea is breaking in long swells below the window, + and a glorious planet shines in the place of the sunset that has died + away. This is our first resting-place since leaving Rome. We have been + walking all day over the bare and dreary Campagna, and it is a relief to + look at last on the broad, blue expanse of the Tyrrhene Sea. + </p> + <p> + When we emerged from the cool alleys of Rome, and began to climb up and + down the long, barren swells, the sun beat down on us with an almost + summer heat. On crossing a ridge near Castel Guido, we took our last look + of Rome, and saw from the other side the sunshine lying like a dazzling + belt on the far Mediterranean. The country is one of the most wretched + that can be imagined. Miles and miles of uncultivated land, with scarcely + a single habitation, extend on either side of the road, and the few + shepherds who watch their flocks in the marshy hollows, look wild and + savage enough for any kind of crime. It made me shudder to see every face + bearing such a villainous stamp. + </p> + <p> + <i>Civita Vecchia, Jan. 1.</i>—We left Palo just after sunrise, and + walked in the cool of the morning beside the blue Mediterranean. On the + right, the low outposts of the Appenines rose, bleak and brown, the narrow + plain between them and the shore resembling a desert, so destitute was it + of the signs of civilized life. A low, white cloud that hung over the sea, + afar off, showed us the locality of Sardinia, though the land was not + visible. The sun shone down warmly, and with the blue sky and bluer sea we + could easily have imagined a milder season. The barren scenery took a new + interest in my eyes, when I remembered that I was spending amidst it that + birth-day which removes me, in the eyes of the world, from dependant youth + to responsible manhood. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we found a beautiful cove in a curve of the shore, and + went to bathe in the cold surf. It was very refreshing, but not quite + equal to the sulphur-bath on the road to Tivoli. The mountains now ran + closer to the sea, and the road was bordered with thickets of myrtle. I + stopped often to beat my staff into the bushes, and inhale the fragrance + that arose from their crushed leaves. The hills were covered with this + poetical shrub, and any acre of the ground would make the fortune of a + florist at home. + </p> + <p> + The sun was sinking in a sky of orange and rose, as Civita Vecchia came in + sight on a long headland before us. Beyond the sea stretched the dim hills + of Corsica. We walked nearly an hour in the clear moonlight, by the + sounding shore, before the gate of the city was reached. We have found a + tolerable inn, and are now enjoying the pleasures of supper and rest. + </p> + <p> + <i>Marseilles, Jan. 16.</i>—At length we tread the shore of France—of + sunny Provence—the last unvisited realm we have to roam through + before returning home. It is with a feeling of more than common relief + that we see around us the lively faces and hear the glib tongues of the + French. It is like an earnest that the "roughing" we have undergone among + Bohemian boors and Italian savages is well nigh finished, and that, + henceforth, we shall find civilized sympathy and politeness, if nothing + more, to make the way smoother. Perhaps the three woful days which + terminated at half-past two yesterday afternoon, as we passed through the + narrow strait into the beautiful harbor which Marseilles encloses in her + sheltering heart, make it still pleasanter. Now, while there is time, I + must describe those three days, for who could write on the wet deck of a + steamboat, amid all the sights and smells which a sea voyage creates? + Description does not flourish when the bones are sore with lying on + planks, and the body shivering like an aspen leaf with cold. + </p> + <p> + About the old town of Civita Vecchia there is not much to be said, except + that it has the same little harbor which Trajan dug for it, and is as + dirty and disagreeable as a town can well be. We saw nothing except a + little church, and the prison-yard, full of criminals, where the + celebrated bandit, Gasparoni, has been now confined for eight years. + </p> + <p> + The Neapolitan Company's boat, <i>Mongibello</i>, was advertised to leave + the 12th, so, after procuring our passports, we went to the office to take + passage. The official, however, refused to give us tickets for the third + place, because, forsooth, we were not servants or common laborers! and + words were wasted in trying to convince him that it would make no + difference. As the second cabin fare was nearly three times as high, and + entirely too dear for us, we went to the office of the Tuscan Company, + whose boat was to leave in two days. Through the influence of an Italian + gentleman, secretary to Bartolini, the American Consul, whom we met, they + agreed to take us for forty-five francs, on deck, the price of the + Neapolitan boat being thirty. + </p> + <p> + Rather than stay two days longer in the dull town, we went again to the + latter Company's office and offered them forty-five francs to go that day + in <i>their</i> boat. This removed the former scruples, and tickets were + immediately made out. After a plentiful dinner at the albergo, to prepare + ourselves for the exposure, we filled our pockets with a supply of bread, + cheese, and figs, for the voyage. We then engaged a boatman, who agreed to + row us out to the steamer for two pauls, but after he had us on board and + an oar's length from the quay, he said two pauls <i>apiece</i> was his + bargain. I instantly refused, and, summoning the best Italian I could + command, explained our agreement; but he still persisted in demanding + double price. The dispute soon drew a number of persons to the quay, some + of whom, being boatmen, sided with him. Finding he had us safe in his + boat, his manner was exceedingly calm and polite. He contradicted me with + a "pardon, Signore!" accompanying the words with a low bow and a graceful + lift of his scarlet cap, and replied to my indignant accusations in the + softest and most silvery-modulated Roman sentences. I found, at last, that + if I was in the right, I cut the worse figure of the two, and, therefore, + put an end to the dispute by desiring him to row on at his own price. + </p> + <p> + The hour of starting was two, but the boat lay quietly in the harbor till + four, when we glided out on the open sea, and went northward, with the + blue hills of Corsica far on our left. A gorgeous sunset faded away over + the water, and the moon rose behind the low mountains of the Italian + coast. Having found a warm and sheltered place near the chimney, I drew my + beaver further over my eyes, to keep out the moonlight, and lay down on + the deck with my knapsack under my head. It was a hard bed, indeed; and + the first time I attempted to rise, I found myself glued to the floor by + the pitch which was smeared along the seams of the boards! Our + fellow-sufferers were a company of Swiss soldiers going home after a four + years' service under the King of Naples, but they took to their situation + more easily than we. + </p> + <p> + Sleep was next to impossible, so I paced the deck occasionally, looking + out on the moonlit sea and the dim shores on either side. A little after + midnight we passed between Elba and Corsica. The dark crags of Elba rose + on our right, and the bold headlands of Napoleon's isle stood opposite, at + perhaps twenty miles' distance. There was something dreary and mysterious + in the whole scene, viewed at such a time—the grandeur of his + career, who was born on one and exiled to the other, gave it a strange and + thrilling interest. + </p> + <p> + We made the light-house before the harbor of Leghorn at dawn, and by + sunrise were anchored within the mole. I sat on the deck the whole day, + watching the picturesque vessels that skimmed about with their lateen + sails, and wondering how soon the sailors, on the deck of a Boston brig + anchored near us, would see my distant country. Leaving at four o'clock, + we dashed away, along the mountain coast of Carrara, at a rapid rate. The + wind was strong and cold, but I lay down behind the boiler, and though the + boards were as hard as ever, slept two or three hours. When I awoke at + half-past two in the morning, after a short rest, Genoa was close at hand. + We glided between the two revolving lights on the mole, into the harbor, + with the amphitheatre on which the superb city sits, dark and silent + around us. It began raining soon, the engine-fire sank down, and as there + was no place of shelter, we were shortly wet to the skin. + </p> + <p> + How long those dreary hours seemed, till the dawn came! All was cold and + rainy and dark, and we waited in a kind of torpid misery for daylight. The + entire day, I passed sitting in a coil of rope under the stern of the + cabin, and even the beauties of the glorious city scarce affected me. We + lay opposite the Doria palace, and the constellation of villas and towers + still glittered along the hills; but who, with his teeth chattering and + limbs numb and damp, could feel pleasure in looking on Elysium itself? + </p> + <p> + We got under way again at three o'clock. The rain very soon hid the coast + from view, and the waves pitched our boat about in a manner not at all + pleasant. I soon experienced sea-sickness in all its horrors. We had + accidentally made the acquaintance of one of the Neapolitan sailors, who + had been in America. He was one of those rough, honest natures I like to + meet with—their blunt kindness, is better than refined and + oily-tongued suavity. As we were standing by the chimney, reflecting + dolefully how we should pass the coming night, he came up and said; "I am + in trouble about you, poor fellows! I don't think I shall sleep three + hours to-night, to think of you. I shall tell all the cabin they shall + give you beds, because they shall see you are gentlemen!" Whether he did + so or the officers were moved by spontaneous commiseration, we knew not, + but in half an hour a servant beckoned us into the cabin, and berths were + given us. + </p> + <p> + I turned in with a feeling of relief not easily imagined, and forgave the + fleas willingly, in the comfort of a shelter from the storm. When I awoke, + it was broad day. A fresh breeze was drying the deck, and the sun was + half-visible among breaking clouds. We had just passed the Isle of the + Titan, one of the <i>Isles des Hyères</i>, and the bay of Toulon opened on + our right. It was a rugged, rocky coast, but the hills of sunny Provence + rose beyond. The sailor came up with a smile of satisfaction on his rough + countenance, and said: "You did sleep better, I think; I did tell them + all!" coupling his assertion with a round curse on the officers. + </p> + <p> + We ran along, beside the brown, bare crags till nearly noon, when we + reached the eastern point of the Bay of Marseilles. A group of small + islands, formed of bare rocks, rising in precipices three or four hundred + feet high, guards the point; on turning into the Gulf, we saw on the left + the rocky islands of Pomegues, and If, with the castle crowning the + latter, in which Mirabeau was confined. The ranges of hills which rose + around the great bay, were spotted and sprinkled over with thousands of + the country cottages of the Marseilles merchants, called <i>Bastides</i>; + the city itself was hidden from view. We saw apparently the whole bay, but + there was no crowd of vessels, such as would befit a great sea-port; a few + spires peeping over a hill, with some fortifications, were all that was + visible. At length we turned suddenly aside and entered a narrow strait, + between two forts. Immediately a broad harbor opened before us, locked in + the very heart of the hills on which the city stands. It was covered with + vessels of all nations; on leaving the boat, we rowed past the + "Aristides," bearing the blue cross of Greece, and I searched eagerly and + found, among the crowded masts, the starry banner of America. + </p> + <p> + I have rambled through all the principal parts of Marseilles, and am very + favorably impressed with its appearance. Its cleanliness and the air of + life and business which marks the streets, are the more pleasant after + coming from the dirty and depopulated Italian cities. The broad avenues, + lined with trees, which traverse its whole length, must be delightful in + summer. I am often reminded, by its spacious and crowded thoroughfares, of + our American cities. Although founded by the Phoceans, three thousand + years ago, it has scarcely an edifice of greater antiquity than three or + four centuries, and the tourist must content himself with wandering + through the narrow streets of the old town, observing the Provençal + costumes, or strolling among Turks and Moors on the <i>Quai d'Orléans</i>. + </p> + <p> + We have been detained here a day longer than was necessary, owing to some + misunderstanding about the passports. This has not been favorable to our + reduced circumstances, for we have, now but twenty francs each, left, to + take us to Paris. Our boots, too, after serving us so long, begin to show + signs of failing in this hour of adversity. Although we are somewhat + accustomed to such circumstances, I cannot help shrinking when I think of + the solitary napoleon and the five hundred miles to be passed. Perhaps, + however, the coin will do as much as its great namesake, and achieve for + us a Marengo in the war with fate. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0043" id="link2HCH0043"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIII. — PILGRIMAGE TO VAUCLUSE AND JOURNEY UP THE RHONE. + </h2> + <p> + We left Marseilles about nine o'clock, on a dull, rainy morning, for + Avignon and the Rhone, intending to take in our way the glen of Vaucluse. + The dirty <i>faubourgs</i> stretch out along the road for a great + distance, and we trudged through them, past foundries, furnaces and + manufactories, considerably disheartened with the prospect. We wound among + the bleak stony hills, continually ascending, for nearly three hours. + Great numbers of cabarets, frequented by the common people, lined the + roads, and we met continually trains of heavy laden wagons, drawn by large + mules. The country is very wild and barren, and would have been tiresome, + except for the pine groves with their beautiful green foliage. We got + something to eat with difficulty at an inn, for the people spoke nothing + but the Provençal dialect, and the place was so cold and cheerless we were + glad to go out again into the storm. It mattered little to us, that we + heard the language in which the gay troubadours of king René sung their + songs of love. We thought more of our dripping clothes and numb, cold + limbs, and would have been glad to hear instead, the strong, hearty German + tongue, full of warmth and kindly sympathy for the stranger. The wind + swept drearily among the hills; black, gusty clouds covered the sky, and + the incessant rain filled the road with muddy pools. We looked at the + country chateaux, so comfortable in the midst of their sheltering poplars, + with a sigh, and thought of homes afar off, whose doors were never closed + to <i>us</i>. + </p> + <p> + This was all forgotten, when we reached Aix, and the hostess of the Café + d'Afrique filled her little stove with fresh coal, and hung our wet + garments around it, while her daughter, a pale-faced, crippled child, + smiled kindly on us and tried to talk with us in French. Putting on our + damp, heavy coats again, B—— and I rambled through the + streets, while our frugal supper was preparing. We saw the statue of the + <i>Bon Roi René</i>, who held at Aix his court of shepherds and + troubadours—the dark Cathedral of St. Saveur—the ancient walls + and battlements, and gazed down the valley at the dark, precipitous mass + of Mont St. Victor, at whose base Marius obtained a splendid victory over + the barbarians. + </p> + <p> + After leaving next morning, we saw at some distance to the south, the + enormous aqueduct now being erected for the canal from the Rhone to + Marseilles. The shallow, elevated valleys we passed in the forenoon's walk + were stony and barren, but covered with large orchards of almond trees, + the fruit of which forms a considerable article of export. This district + borders on the desert of the Crau, a vast plain of stones, reaching to the + mouth of the Rhone and almost entirely uninhabited. We caught occasional + glimpses of its sea-like waste, between the summits of the hills. At + length, after threading a high ascent, we saw the valley of the Durance + suddenly below us. The sun, breaking through the clouds, shone on the + mountain wall, which stood on the opposite side, touching with his glow + the bare and rocky precipices that frowned far above the stream. + Descending to the valley, we followed its course towards the Rhone, with + the ruins of feudal bourgs crowning the crags above us. + </p> + <p> + It was dusk, when we reached the village of Senas, tired with the day's + march. A landlord, standing in his door, on the lookout for customers, + invited us to enter, in a manner so polite and pressing, we could not + choose but do so. This is a universal custom with the country innkeepers. + In a little village which we passed towards evening, there was a tavern, + with the sign: "<i>The Mother of Soldiers</i>." A portly woman, whose face + beamed with kindness and cheerfulness, stood in the door and invited us to + stop there for the night. "No, mother!" I answered; "we must go much + further to-day." "Go, then," said she, "with good luck, my children! a + pleasant journey!" On entering the inn at Senas, two or three bronzed + soldiers were sitting by the table. My French vocabulary happening to give + out in the middle of a consultation about eggs and onion-soup, one of them + came to my assistance and addressed me in German. He was from Fulda, in + Hesse Cassel, and had served fifteen years in Africa. Two other young + soldiers, from the western border of Germany, came during the evening, and + one of them being partly intoxicated, created such a tumult, that a + quarrel arose, which ended in his being beaten and turned out of the + house. + </p> + <p> + We met, every day, large numbers of recruits in companies of one or two + hundred, on their way to Marseilles to embark for Algiers. They were + mostly youths, from sixteen to twenty years of age, and seemed little to + forebode their probable fate. In looking on their fresh, healthy faces and + bounding forms, I saw also a dim and ghastly vision of bones whitening on + the desert, of men perishing with heat and fever, or stricken down by the + aim of the savage Bedouin. + </p> + <p> + Leaving next morning at day-break, we walked on before breakfast to Orgon, + a little village in a corner of the cliffs which border the Durance, and + crossed the muddy river by a suspension bridge a short distance below, to + Cavaillon, where the country people were holding a great market. From this + place a road led across the meadow-land to L'Isle, six miles distant. This + little town is so named, because it is situated on an island formed by the + crystal Sorgues, which flows from the fountains of Vaucluse. It is a very + picturesque and pretty place. Great mill-wheels, turning slowly and + constantly, stand at intervals in the stream, whose grassy banks are now + as green as in spring-time. We walked along the Sorgues, which is quite as + beautiful and worthy to be sung as the Clitumnus, to the end of the + village, to take the road to Vaucluse. Beside its banks stands a dirty, + modern "Hotel de Petrarque et Laure." Alas, that the names of the most + romantic and impassioned lovers of all history should be desecrated to a + sign-post to allure gormandizing tourists! + </p> + <p> + The bare mountain in whose heart lies the poet's solitude, now rose before + us, at the foot of the lofty Mont Ventoux, whose summit of snows extended + beyond. We left the river, and walked over a barren plain, across which + the wind blew most drearily. The sky was rainy and dark, and completed the + desolateness of the scene, which in no wise heightened our anticipations + of the renowned glen. At length we rejoined the Sorgues and entered a + little green valley running up into the mountain. The narrowness of the + entrance entirely shut out the wind, and except the rolling of the waters + over their pebbly bed, all was still and lonely and beautiful. The sides + of the dell were covered with olive trees, and a narrow strip of emerald + meadow lay at the bottom. It grew more hidden and sequestered as we + approached the little village of Vaucluse. Here, the mountain towers far + above, and precipices of grey rock, many hundred feet high, hang over the + narrowing glen. On a crag over the village are the remains of a castle; + the slope below this, now rugged and stony, was once graced by the cottage + and garden of Petrarch. All traces of them have long since vanished, but a + simple column, bearing the inscription; "À PETRARQUE," stands beside the + Sorgues. + </p> + <p> + We ascended into the defile by a path among the rocks, overshadowed by + olive and wild fig trees, to the celebrated fountains of Vaucluse. The + glen seems as if struck into the mountain's depths by one blow of an + enchanter's wand; and just at the end, where the rod might have rested in + its downward sweep, is the fathomless well whose overbrimming fulness + gives birth to the Sorgues. We climbed up over the mossy rocks and sat + down in the grot, beside the dark, still pool. It was the most absolute + solitude. The rocks towered above and over us, to the height of six + hundred feet, and the gray walls of the wild glen below shut out all + appearance of life. I leaned over the rock and drank of the blue crystal + that grew gradually darker towards the centre, till it became a mirror, + and gave back a perfect reflection of the crags above it. There was no + bubbling—no gushing up from its deep bosom—but the wealth of + sparkling waters continually welled over, as from a too-full goblet. + </p> + <p> + It was with actual sorrow that I turned away from the silent spot. I never + visited a place to which the fancy clung more suddenly and fondly. There + is something holy in its solitude, making one envy Petrarch the years of + calm and unsullied enjoyment which blessed him there. As some persons, + whom we pass as strangers, strike a hidden chord in our spirits, + compelling a silent sympathy with them, so some landscapes have a + character of beauty which harmonizes thrillingly with the mood in which we + look upon them, till we forget admiration in the glow of spontaneous + attachment. They seem like abodes of the Beautiful, which the soul in its + wanderings long ago visited, and now recognizes and loves as the home of a + forgotten dream. It was thus I felt by the fountains of Vaucluse; sadly + and with weary steps I turned away, leaving its loneliness unbroken as + before. + </p> + <p> + We returned over the plain in the wind, under the gloomy sky, passed + L'Isle at dusk, and after walking an hour with a rain following close + behind us, stopped at an <i>auberge</i> in Le Thor, where we rested our + tired frames and broke our long day's fasting. We were greeted in the + morning with a dismal rain and wet roads, as we began the march. After a + time, however, it poured down in such torrents, that we were obliged to + take shelter in a <i>remise</i> by the road, side, where a good woman, who + addressed us in the unintelligible Provençal, kindled up a blazing fire. + On climbing a long hill, when the storm had abated, we experienced a + delightful surprise. Below us lay the broad valley of the Rhone, with its + meadows looking fresh and spring-like after the rain. The clouds were + breaking away; clear blue sky was visible over Avignon, and a belt of + sunlight lay warmly along the mountains of Languedoc. Many villages, with + their tall, picturesque towers, dotted the landscape, and the groves of + green olive enlivened the barrenness of winter. Two or three hours' walk + over the plain, by a road fringed with willows, brought us to the gates of + Avignon. + </p> + <p> + We walked around its picturesque turreted wall, and rambled through its + narrow streets, washed here and there by streams which turn the old + mill-wheels lazily around. We climbed up to the massive palace, which + overlooks the city from its craggy seat, attesting the splendor it + enjoyed, when for thirty years the Papal Court was held there, and the + gray, weather-beaten, irregular building, resembling a pile of precipitous + rocks, echoed with the revels of licentious prelates. We could not enter + to learn the terrible secrets of the Inquisition, here unveiled, but we + looked up at the tower, from which the captive Rienzi was liberated at the + intercession of Petrarch. + </p> + <p> + After leaving Avignon, we took the road up the Rhone for Lyons, turning + our backs upon the <i>rainy</i> south. We reached the village of Sorgues + by dusk, and accepted the invitation of an old dame to lodge at her <i>inn</i>, + which proved to be a <i>blacksmith's shop</i>! It was nevertheless clean + and comfortable, and we sat down in one corner, out of the reach of the + showers of sparks, which flew hissing from a red-hot horseshoe, that the + smith and his apprentice were hammering. A Piedmontese pedlar, who carried + the "Song of the Holy St. Philomène" to sell among the peasants, came in + directly, and bargained for a sleep on some hay, for two sous. For a bed + in the loft over the shop, we were charged five sous each, which, with + seven sous for supper, made our expenses for the night about eleven cents! + Our circumstances demanded the greatest economy, and we began to fear + whether even this spare allowance would enable us to reach Lyons. Owing to + a day's delay in Marseilles, we had left that city with but fifteen francs + each; the incessant storms of winter and the worn-out state of our shoes, + which were no longer proof against water or mud, prolonged our journey + considerably, so that by starting before dawn and walking till dark, we + were only able to make thirty miles a day. We could always procure beds + for five sous, and as in the country inns one is only charged for what he + chooses to order, our frugal suppers cost us but little. We purchased + bread and cheese in the villages, and made our breakfasts and dinners on a + bank by the roadside, or climbed the rocks and sat down by the source of + some trickling rill. This simple fare had an excellent relish, and + although we walked in wet clothes from morning till night, often laying + down on the damp, cold earth to rest, our health was never affected. + </p> + <p> + It is worth all the toil and privation we have as yet undergone, to gain, + from actual experience, the blessed knowledge that man always retains a + kindness and brotherly sympathy towards his fellow—that under all + the weight of vice and misery which a grinding oppression of soul and body + brings on the laborers of earth, there still remain many bright tokens of + a better nature. Among the starving mountaineers of the Hartz—the + degraded peasantry of Bohemia—the savage <i>contadini</i> of Central + Italy, or the dwellers on the hills of Provence and beside the swift + Rhone, we almost invariably found kind, honest hearts, and an aspiration + for something better, betokening the consciousness that such brute-like, + obedient existence was not their proper destiny. We found few so hardened + as to be insensible to a kind look or a friendly word, and nothing made us + forget we were among strangers so much as the many tokens of sympathy + which met us when least looked for. A young Englishman, who had traveled + on foot from Geneva to Rome, enduring many privations on account of his + reduced circumstances, said to me, while speaking on this subject: "A + single word of kindness from a stranger would make my heart warm and my + spirits cheerful, for days afterwards." There is not so much evil in man + as men would have us believe; and it is a happy comfort to know and feel + this. + </p> + <p> + Leaving our little inn before day break next morning, we crossed the + Sorgues, grown muddy since its infancy at Vaucluse, like many a young + soul, whose mountain purity goes out into the soiling world and becomes + sullied forever. The road passed over broad, barren ranges of hills, and + the landscape was destitute of all interest, till we approached Orange. + This city is built at the foot of a rocky height, a great square + projection of which seemed to stand in its midst. As we approached nearer, + however, arches and lines of cornice could be discerned, and we recognized + it as the celebrated amphitheatre, one of the grandest Roman relics in the + south of France. + </p> + <p> + I stood at the foot of this great fabric, and gazed up at it in + astonishment. The exterior wall, three hundred and thirty-four feet in + length, and rising to the height of one hundred and twenty-one feet, is + still in excellent, preservation, and through its rows of solid arches one + looks on the broken ranges of seats within. On the crag above, and looking + as if about to topple down on it, is a massive fragment of the fortress of + the Princes of Orange, razed by Louis XIV. Passing through the city, we + came to the beautiful Roman triumphal arch, which to my eye is a finer + structure than that of Constantino at Rome. It is built of a rich yellow + marble and highly ornamented with sculptured trophies. From the barbaric + shields and the letters MARIO, still remaining, it has been supposed to + commemorate the victory of Marius over the barbarians, near Aix. A frieze, + running along the top, on each side, shows, although broken and much + defaced by the weather, the life and action which once marked the + struggling figures. These Roman ruins, scattered through Provence and + Languedoc, though inferior in historical interest, equal in architectural + beauty the greater part of those in the Eternal City itself. + </p> + <p> + The rest of the day the road was monotonous, though varied somewhat by the + tall crags of Mornas and Mont-dragon, towering over the villages of the + same name. Night came on as the rock of Pierrelatte, at whose foot we were + to sleep, appeared in the distance, rising like a Gibraltar from the + plain, and we only reached it in time to escape the rain that came down + the valley of the Rhone. + </p> + <p> + Next day we passed several companies of soldiers on their way to Africa. + One of them was accompanied by a young girl, apparently the wife of the + recruit by whose side she was marching. She wore the tight blue jacket of + the troop, and a red skirt, reaching to the knees, over her soldier + pantaloons; while her pretty face showed to advantage beneath a small + military cap. It was a "Fille du Regiment" in real life. Near Montelimart, + we lost sight of Mont Ventoux, whose gleaming white crest had been visible + all the way from Vaucluse, and passed along the base of a range of hills + running near to the river. So went our march, without particular incident, + till we bivouacked for the night among a company of soldiers in the little + village of Loriol. + </p> + <p> + Leaving at six o'clock, wakened by the trumpets which called up the + soldiery to their day's march, we reached the river Drome at dawn, and + from the bridge over its rapid current, gazed at the dim, ash-colored + masses of the Alps of Dauphiné, piled along the sky, far up the valley. + The coming of morn threw a yellow glow along their snowy sides, and + lighted up, here and there, a flashing glacier. The peasantry were already + up and at work, and caravans of pack-wagons rumbled along in the morning + twilight We trudged on with them, and by breakfast-time had made some + distance of the way to Valence. The road, which does not approach the + Rhone, is devoid of interest and tiresome, though under a summer sky, when + the bare vine-hills are latticed over with green, and the fruit-trees + covered with blossoms and foliage, it might be a scene of great beauty. + </p> + <p> + Valence, which we reached towards noon, is a commonplace city on the + Rhone; and my only reasons for traversing its dirty streets in preference + to taking the road, which passes without the walls, were—to get + something for dinner, and because it <i>might</i> have been the + birth-place of Aymer de Valence, the valorous Crusader, chronicled in + "Ivanhoe," whose tomb I had seen in Westminster Abbey. One of the streets + which was marked "<i>Rue Bayard</i>," shows that my valiant namesake—the + knight without fear and reproach—is still remembered in his native + province. The ruins of his chateau are still standing among the Alps near + Grenoble. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we crossed the Isère, a swift, muddy river, which rises + among the Alps of Dauphiné, We saw their icy range, among which is the + desert solitude of the Grand Chartreuse, far up the valley; but the thick + atmosphere hid the mighty Mont Blanc, whose cloudy outline, eighty miles + distant in a "bee line," is visible in fair weather. At Tain, we came upon + the Rhone again, and walked along the base of the hills which contract its + current. Here, I should call it beautiful. The scenery has a wildness that + approaches to that of the Rhine. Rocky, castellated heights frown over the + rushing waters, which have something of the majesty of their "exulting and + abounding" rival. Winding around the curving hills, the scene is + constantly varied, and the little willowed islets clasped in the embrace + of the stream, mingle a trait of softened beauty with its sterner + character. + </p> + <p> + After passing the night at a village on its banks, we left it again at St. + Vallier, the next morning. At sunset, the spires of Vienne were visible, + and the lofty Mont Pilas, the snows of whose riven summits feed the + springs of the Loire on its western side, stretched majestically along the + opposite bank of the Rhone. In a meadow, near Vienne, stands a curious + Roman obelisk, seventy-six feet in height. The base is composed of four + pillars, connected by arches, and the whole structure has a barbaric air, + compared with the more elegant monuments of Orange and Nismes. Vienne, + which is mentioned by several of the Roman historians under its present + name, was the capital of the Allobroges, and I looked upon it with a new + and strange interest, on calling to mind my school-boy days, when I had + become familiar with that war-like race, in toiling over the pages of + Cæsar. We walked in the mud and darkness for what seemed a great distance, + and finally took shelter in a little inn at the northern end of the city. + Two Belgian soldiers, coming from Africa, were already quartered there, + and we listened to their tales of the Arab and the desert, while supper + was preparing. + </p> + <p> + The morning of the 25th was dull and rainy; the road, very muddy and + unpleasant, led over the hills, avoiding the westward curve of the Rhone, + directly towards Lyons. About noon, we came in sight of the broad valley + in which the Rhone first clasps his Burgundian bride—the Saone, and + a cloud of impenetrable coal-smoke showed us the location of Lyons. A + nearer approach revealed a large flat dome, and some ranges of tall + buildings near the river. We soon entered the suburb of La Guillotière, + which has sprung up on the eastern bank of the Rhone. Notwithstanding our + clothes were like sponges, our boots entirely worn out, and our bodies + somewhat thin with nine days exposure to the wintry storms in walking two + hundred and forty miles, we entered Lyons with suspense and anxiety. But + one franc apiece remained out of the fifteen with which we left + Marseilles. B—— wrote home some time ago, directing a + remittance to be forwarded to a merchant at Paris, to whom he had a letter + of introduction, and in the hope that this had arrived, he determined to + enclose the letter in a note, stating our circumstances, and requesting + him to forward a part of the remittance to Lyons. We had then to wait at + least four days; people are suspicious and mistrustful in cities, and if + no relief should come, what was to be done? + </p> + <p> + After wading through the mud of the suburbs, we chose a common-looking inn + near the river, as the comfort of our stay depended wholly on the kindness + of our hosts, and we hoped to find more sympathy among the laboring + classes. We engaged lodgings for four or five days; after dinner the + letter was dispatched, and we wandered about through the dark, dirty city + until night. Our landlord, Monsieur Ferrand, was a rough, vigorous man, + with a gloomy, discontented expression; his words were few and blunt; but + a certain restlessness of manner, and a secret flashing of his cold, + forbidding eye betrayed to me some strong hidden excitement. Madame + Ferrand was kind and talkative, though passionate; but the appearance of + the place gave me an unfavorable impression, which was heightened by the + thought that it was now impossible to change our lodgings until relief + should arrive. When bed-time came, a ladder was placed against a sort of + high platform along one side of the kitchen; we mounted and found a bed, + concealed from the view of those below by a dusty muslin curtain. We lay + there, between heaven and earth—the dirty earth of the brick floor + and the sooty heaven of the ceiling—listening until midnight to the + boisterous songs, and loud, angry disputes in the room adjoining. Thus + ended our first day in Lyons. + </p> + <p> + Five weary days, each of them containing a month of torturing suspense, + have since passed. Our lodging-place grew so unpleasant that we preferred + wandering all day through the misty, muddy, smoky streets, taking refuge + in the covered bazaars when it rained heavily. The gloom of every thing + around us, entirely smothered down the lightness of heart which made us + laugh over our embarrassments at Vienna. When at evening, the dull, leaden + hue of the clouds seemed to make the air dark and cold and heavy, we + walked beside the swollen and turbid Rhone, under an avenue of leafless + trees, the damp soil chilling our feet and striking a numbness through our + frames, and <i>then</i> I knew what those must feel who have <i>no</i> + hope in their destitution, and not a friend in all the great world, who is + not wretched as themselves. I prize the lesson, though the price of it is + hard. + </p> + <p> + "This morning," I said to B——, "will terminate our suspense." + I felt cheerful in spite of myself; and this was like a presentiment of + coming good luck. To pass the time till the mail arrived we climbed to the + chapel of <i>Fourvières</i>, whose walls are covered with votive offerings + to a miraculous picture of the Virgin. But at the precise hour we were at + the Post Office. What an intensity of suspense can be felt in that minute, + while the clerk is looking over the letters! And what a lightning-like + shock of joy when it <i>did</i> come, and was opened with eager, trembling + hands, revealing the relief we had almost despaired of! The city did not + seem less gloomy, for that was impossible, but the faces of the crowd + which had appeared cold and suspicious, were now kind and cheerful. we + came home to our lodgings with changed feelings, and Madame Ferrand must + have seen the joy in our faces, for she greeted us with an unusual smile. + </p> + <p> + We leave to-morrow morning for Chalons. I do not feel disposed to describe + Lyons particularly, although I have become intimately acquainted with + every part of it, from <i>Presqu' isle Perrache to Croix Rousse</i>. I + know the contents of every shop in the Bazaar, and the passage of the + Hotel Dieu—the title of every volume in the bookstores in the Place + Belcour—and the countenance of every boot-block and apple-woman on + the Quais on both sides of the river. I have walked up the Saone to <i>Pierre + Seise</i>—down the Rhone to his muddy marriage—climbed the + Heights of <i>Fourvières</i>, and promenaded in the <i>Cours Napoleon</i>! + Why, men have been presented with the freedom of cities, when they have + had far less cause for such an honor than this! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0044" id="link2HCH0044"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIV. — TRAVELING IN BURGUNDY—THE MISERIES OF A + COUNTRY DILIGENCE. + </h2> + <p> + <i>Paris, Feb. 6, 1840.</i>—Every letter of the date is traced with + an emotion of joy, for our dreary journey is over. There was a magic in + the name that revived us during a long journey, and now the thought that + it is all over—that these walls which enclose us, stand in the heart + of the gay city—seems almost too joyful to be true. Yesterday I + marked with the whitest chalk, on the blackest of all tablets to make the + contrast greater, for I got out of the cramped diligence at the Barrière + de Charenton, and saw before me in the morning twilight, the immense groy + mass of Paris. I forgot my numbed and stiffened frame, and every other of + the thousand disagreeable feelings of diligence traveling, in the pleasure + which that sight afforded. + </p> + <p> + We arose in the dark at Lyons, and after bidding adieu to morose Monsieur + Ferrand, traversed the silent city and found our way in the mist and gloom + to the steamboat landing on the Saone. The waters were swollen much above + their usual level, which was favorable for the boat, as long as there was + room enough left to pass under the bridges. After a great deal of bustle + we got under way, and were dashing out of Lyons, against the swift + current, before day-break. We passed <i>L'Isle Barbe</i>, once a favorite + residence of Charlemagne, and now the haunt of the Lyonnaise on summer + holidays, and going under the suspension bridges with levelled chimneys, + entered the picturesque hills above, which are covered with vineyards + nearly to the top; the villages scattered over them have those square, + pointed towers, which give such a quaintness to French country scenery. + </p> + <p> + The stream being very high, the meadows on both sides were deeply + overflowed. To avoid the strong current in the centre, our boat ran along + the banks, pushing aside the alder thickets and poplar shoots; in passing + the bridges, the pipes were always brought down flat on the deck. A little + after noon, we passed the large town of Macon, the birth-place of the poet + Lamartine. The valley of the Saone, no longer enclosed among the hills, + spread out to several miles in width. Along the west lay in sunshine the + vine-mountains of Côte d'Or, and among the dark clouds in the eastern sky, + we could barely distinguish the outline of the Jura. The waters were so + much swollen as to cover the plain for two or three miles. We seemed to be + sailing down a lake, with rows of trees springing up out of the water, and + houses and villages lying like islands on its surface. A sunset that + promised better weather tinged the broad brown flood, as Chalons came in + sight, looking like a city built along the shore of a lake. We squeezed + through the crowd of porters and diligence men, declining their kind + offers, and hunted quarters to suit ourselves. + </p> + <p> + We left Chalons on the morning of the 1st, in high spirits at the thought + that there were but little more than two hundred miles between us and + Paris. In walking over the cold, muddy plain, we passed a family of + strolling musicians, who were sitting on a heap of stones by the roadside. + An ill-dressed, ill-natured man and woman, each carrying a violin, and a + thin, squalid girl, with a tamborine, composed the group. Their faces bore + that unfeeling stamp, which springs from depravity and degradation. When + we had walked somewhat more than a mile, we overtook a little girl, who + was crying bitterly. By her features, from which the fresh beauty of + childhood had not been worn, and the steel triangle which was tied to her + belt, we knew she belonged to the family we had passed. Her dress was thin + and ragged and a pair of wooden shoes but ill protected her feet from the + sharp cold. I stopped and asked her why she cried, but she did not at + first answer. However, by questioning, I found her unfeeling parents had + sent her on without food; she was sobbing with hunger and cold. Our + pockets were full of bread and cheese which we had bought for breakfast, + and we gave her half a loaf, which stopped her tears at once. She looked + up and thanked us, smiling; and sitting down on a bank, began to eat as if + half famished. + </p> + <p> + The physiognomy of this region is very singular. It appears as if the + country had been originally a vast elevated plain, and some great power + had <i>scooped</i> out, as with a hand, deep circular valleys all over its + surface. In winding along the high ridges, we often looked down, on either + side, into such hollows, several miles in diameter, and sometimes entirely + covered with vineyards. At La Rochepot, a quaint, antique village, lying + in the bottom of one of these dells, we saw the finest ruin of the middle + ages that I have met with in France. An American lady had spoken to me of + it in Rome, and I believe Willis mentions it in his "Pencillings," but it + is not described in the guide books, nor could we learn what feudal lord + had ever dwelt in its halls. It covers the summit of a stately rock, at + whose foot the village is crouched, and the green ivy climbs up to the + very top of its gray towers. + </p> + <p> + As the road makes a wide curve around the side of the hill, we descended + to the village by the nearer foot-path, and passed among its low, old + houses, with their pointed gables and mossy roofs. The path led close + along the foot of the rock, and we climbed up to the ruin, and stood in + its grass-grown courtyard. Only the outer walls and the round towers at + each corner are left remaining; the inner part has been razed to the + ground, and where proud barons once marshalled their vassals, the + villagers now play their holiday games. On one side, several Gothic + windows are left standing, perfect, though of simple construction, and in + the towers we saw many fire-places and door-ways of richly cut stone, + which looked as fresh as if just erected. + </p> + <p> + We passed the night at Ivry (not the Ivry which gained Henri Quatre his + kingdom) and then continued our march over roads which I can only compare + to our country roads in America during the spring thaw. In addition to + this, the rain commenced early in the morning and continued all day, so + that we were completely wet the whole time. The plains, too high and cold + to produce wine, were varied by forests of beech and oak, and the + population was thinly scattered over them in small villages. Travelers + generally complain very much of the monotony of this part of France, and, + with such dreary weather, we could not disagree with them. + </p> + <p> + As the day wore on, the rain increased, and the sky put on that dull, gray + cast, which denotes a lengthened storm. We were fain to stop at nightfall, + but there was no inn near at hand—not even a hovel of a <i>cabaret</i> + in which to shelter ourselves, and, on enquiring of the wagoners, we + received the comforting assurance that there was yet a league and a half + to the nearest stopping place. On, then, we went, with the pitiless storm + beating in our faces and on our breasts, till there was not a dry spot + left, except what our knapsacks covered. We could not have been more + completely saturated if we had been dipped in the Yonne. At length, after + two hours of slipping and sliding along in the mud and wet and darkness, + we reached Saulieu, and, by the warm fire, thanked our stars that the + day's dismal tramp was over. + </p> + <p> + By good or bad luck (I have not yet decided which) a vehicle was to start + the next morning for Auxerre, distant sixty miles, and the fare being but + five francs, we thought it wisest to take places. It was always with + reluctance that we departed from our usual mode of traveling, but, in the + present instance, the circumstances absolutely compelled it. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, at sunrise, we took our seats in a large, square vehicle on + two wheels, calculated for six persons and a driver, with a single horse. + But, as he was fat and round as an elephant, and started off at a brisk + pace, and we were well protected from the rain, it was not so bad after + all, barring the jolts and jarred vertebræ. We drove on, over the same + dreary expanse of plain and forest, passing through two or three towns in + the course of the day, and by evening had made somewhat more than half our + journey. Owing to the slowness of our fresh horse, we were jolted about + the whole night, and did not arrive at Auxerre until six o'clock in the + morning. After waiting an hour in a hotel beside the rushing Yonne, a + lumbering diligence was got ready, and we were given places to Paris for + seven francs. As the distance is one hundred and ten miles, this would be + considered cheap, but I should not want to travel it again and be paid for + doing so. Twelve persons were packed into a box not large enough for a + cow, and no cabinet-maker ever dove-tailed the corners of his bureaus + tighter than we did our knees and nether extremities. It is my lot to be + blessed with abundance of stature, and none but tall persons can + appreciate the misery of sitting for hours with their joints in an + immovable vice. The closeness of the atmosphere—for the passengers + would not permit the windows to be opened for fear of taking cold—combined + with loss of sleep, made me so drowsy that my head was continually falling + on my next neighbor, who, being a heavy country lady, thrust it + indignantly away. I would then try my best to keep it up awhile, but it + would droop gradually, till the crash of a bonnet or a smart bump against + some other head would recall me, for a moment, to consciousness. + </p> + <p> + We passed Joigny, on the Yonne, Sens, with its glorious old cathedral, and + at dusk reached Montercau, on the Seine. This was the scene of one of + Napoleon's best victories, on his return from Elba. In driving over the + bridge, I looked down on the swift and swollen current, and hoped that its + hue might never be darkened again so fearfully as the last sixty years + have witnessed. No river in Europe has such an association connected with + it. We think of the Danube, for its majesty, of the Rhine, for its wild + beauty, but of the Seine—for its blood! + </p> + <p> + In coming thus to the last famed stream I shall visit in Europe, I might + say, with Barry Cornwall: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "We've sailed through banks of green, + Where the wild waves fret and quiver; + And we've down the Danube been— + The dark, deep, thundering river! + We've thridded the Elbe and Rhone, + The Tiber and blood dyed Seine, + And we've been where the blue Garonne + Goes laughing to meet the main!" +</pre> + <p> + All that night did we endure squeezing and suffocation, and no morn was + ever more welcome than that which revealed to us Paris. With matted hair, + wild, glaring eyes, and dusty and dishevelled habiliments, we entered the + gay capital, and blessed every stone upon which we placed our feet, in the + fulness of our joy. + </p> + <p> + In paying our fare at Auxerre, I was obliged to use a draft on the banker, + Rougemont de Lowenberg. The ignorant conductor hesitated to change this, + but permitted us to go, on condition of keeping it until we should arrive. + Therefore, on getting out of the diligence, after forty-eight hours of + sleepless and fasting misery, the <i>facteur</i> of the office went with + me to get it paid, leaving B—— to wait for us. I knew nothing + of Paris, and this merciless man kept me for three hours at his heels, + following him on all <i>his</i> errands, before he did mine, in that time + traversing the whole length of the city, in order to leave a <i>chèvre-feuille</i> + at an aristocratic residence in the Faubourg St. Germain. Yet even + combined weariness and hunger could not prevent me from looking with vivid + interest down a long avenue, at the Column of the place Vendôme, in + passing, and gazing up in wonder at the splendid portico of the Madeleine. + But of anything else I have a very faint remembrance. "You can eat + breakfast, now, I think," said he, when we returned, "we have walked more + than four leagues!" + </p> + <p> + I know we will be excused, that, instead of hurrying away to Notre Dame or + the Louvre, we sat down quietly to a most complete breakfast. Even the + most romantic must be forced to confess that admiration does not sit well + on an empty stomach. Our first walk was to a bath, and then, with + complexions several shades lighter, and limbs that felt us if lifted by + invisible wings, we hurried away to the Post Office. I seized the welcome + missives from my far home, with a beating heart, and hastening back, read + till the words became indistinct in the twilight. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0045" id="link2HCH0045"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLV. — POETICAL SCENES IN PARIS. + </h2> + <p> + What a gay little world in miniature this is! I wonder not that the + French, with their exuberant gaiety of spirit, should revel in its + ceaseless tides of pleasure, as if it were an earthly Elysium. I feel + already the influence of its cheerful atmosphere, and have rarely threaded + the crowds of a stranger city, with so light a heart as I do now daily, on + the thronged banks of the Seine. And yet it would be difficult to describe + wherein consists this agreeable peculiarity. You can find streets as dark + and crooked and dirty anywhere in Germany, and squares and gardens as gay + and sunny beyond the Alps, and yet they would affect you far differently. + You could not, as here, divest yourself of every particle of sad or + serious thought and be content to gaze for hours on the showy scene, + without an idea beyond the present moment. It must be that the spirit of + the croud is <i>magnetically</i> contagious. + </p> + <p> + The evening of our arrival we walked out past the massive and stately <i>Hotel + de Ville</i>, and took a promenade along the Quais. The shops facing the + river presented a scene of great splendor. Several of the Quais on the + north bank of the Seine are occupied almost entirely by jewellers, the + windows of whose shops, arranged in a style of the greatest taste, make a + dazzling display. Rows of gold watches and chains are arranged across the + crystal panes, and heaped in pyramids on long glass slabs; cylindrical + wheels of wire, hung with jewelled breastpins and earrings, turn slowly + around by some invisible agency, displaying row after row of their + glittering treasures. + </p> + <p> + From the centre of the Pont Neuf, we could see for a long distance up and + down the river. The different bridges traced on either side a dozen starry + lines through the dark air, and a continued blaze lighted the two shores + in their whole length, revealing the outline of the Isle da la Cité. I + recognized the Palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries in the dusky mass + beyond. Eastward, looming against the dark sky, I could faintly trace the + black towers of Notre Dame, The rushing of the swift waters below mingled + with the rattling of a thousand carts and carriages, and the confusion of + a thousand voices, till it seemed like some grand nightly festival. + </p> + <p> + I first saw Notre Dame by moonlight. The shadow of its stupendous front + was thrown directly towards me, hiding the innumerable lines of the + ornamental sculpture which cover its tall, square towers. I walked forward + until the interlacing, Moorish arches between them stood full against the + moon, and the light, struggling through the quaint openings of the + tracery, streamed in silver lines down into the shadow. The square before + it was quite deserted, for it stands on a lonely part of the Isle de la + Cité, and it looked thus far more majestic and solemn than in the glaring + daylight. + </p> + <p> + The great quadrangle of the Tuileries encloses the Place du Carrousel, in + the centre of which stands a triumphal arch, erected by Napoleon after his + Italian victories. Standing in the middle of this arch, you look through + the open passage in the central building of the palace, into the Gardens + beyond. Further on, in a direct line, the middle avenue of the Gardens + extends away to the <i>Place de la Concorde</i>, where the Obelisk of + Luxor makes a perpendicular line through your vista; still further goes + the broad avenue through the Elysian Fields, until afar off, the Arc de + l'Etoile, <i>two miles distant</i>, closes this view through the palace + doorway. + </p> + <p> + Let us go through it, and on, to the Place de la Concorde, reserving the + Gardens for another time. What is there in Europe—nay, in the world,—equal + to this? In the centre, the mighty obelisk of red granite pierces the sky,—on + either hand showers of silver spray are thrown up from splendid bronze + fountains—statues and pillars of gilded bronze sweep in a grand + circle around the square, and on each side magnificent vistas lead the eye + off, and combine the distant with the near, to complete this unparalleled + view! Eastward, beyond the tall trees in the garden of the Tuileries, + rises the long front of the Palace, with the tri-color floating above; + westward, in front of us, is the Forest of the Elysian Fields, with the + arch of triumph nearly a mile and a half distant, looking down from the + end of the avenue, at the Barriere de Neuilly. To the right and left are + the marble fronts of the Church of the Madeleine and the Chamber of + Deputies, the latter on the other side of the Seine. Thus the groves and + gardens of Paris—the palace of her kings—the proud monument of + her sons' glory—and the masterpieces of modern French architecture + are all embraced in this one splendid <i>coup d'oeil</i>. + </p> + <p> + Following the motley multitude to the bridge, I crossed and made my way to + the Hotel des Invalides. Along the esplanade, playful companies of + children were running and tumbling in their sports over the green turf, + which was as fresh as a meadow; while, not the least interesting feature + of the scene, numbers of scarred and disabled veterans, in the livery of + the Hospital, basked in the sunshine, watching with quiet satisfaction the + gambols of the second generation they have seen arise. What tales could + they not tell, those wrinkled and feeble old men! What visions of Marengo + and Austerlitz and Borodino shift still with a fiery vividness through + their fading memories! Some may have left a limb on the Lybian desert; and + the sabre of the Cossack may have scarred the brows of others. They + witnessed the rising and setting of that great meteor, which intoxicated + France with such a blaze of power and glory, and now, when the + recollection of that wonderful period seems almost like a stormy dream, + they are left to guard the ashes of their ancient General, brought back + from his exile to rest in the bosom of his own French people. It was to me + a touching and exciting thing, to look on those whose eyes had witnessed + the filling up of such a fated leaf in the world's history. + </p> + <p> + Entrance is denied to the tomb of Napoleon until it is finished, which + will not be for three or four yours yet. I went, however, into the "Church + of the Banners"—a large chapel, hung with two or three hundred flags + taken by the armies of the Empire. The greater part of them were Austrian + and Russian. It appeared to be empty when I entered, but on looking + around, I saw an old gray-headed soldier kneeling at one side. His head + was bowed over his hands, and he seemed perfectly absorbed in his + thoughts. Perhaps the very tattered banners which hung down motionless + above his head, he might have assisted in conquering. I looked a moment on + those eloquent trophies, and then noiselessly withdrew. + </p> + <p> + There is at least one solemn spot near Paris; the laughing winds that come + up from the merry city sink into sighs under the cypress boughs of Pere + Lachaise. And yet it is not a gloomy place, but full of a serious beauty, + fitting for a city of the dead. I shall never forget the sunny afternoon + when I first entered its gate and walked slowly up the hill, between rows + of tombs, gleaming white amid the heavy foliage, while the green turf + around them was just beginning to be starred by the opening daisies, From + the little chapel on its summit I looked back at the blue spires of the + city, whose roar of life dwindled to a low murmur. Countless pyramids, + obelisks and urns, rising far and wide above the cedars and cypresses, + showed the extent of the splendid necropolis, which is inhabited by pale, + shrouded emigrants from its living sister below. The only sad part of the + view, was the slope of the hill alloted to the poor, where legions of + plain black crosses are drawn up into solid squares on its side and stand + alone gloomy—the advanced guard of the army of Death! I mused over + the tombs of Molière and La Fontaine; Massena, Mortier and Lefebre; + General Foy and Casimir Perier; and finally descended to the shrine where + Abelard reposes by the side of his Heloise. The old sculptured tomb, + brought away from the Paraclete, still covers their remains, and pious + hands (of lovers, perhaps,) keep fresh the wreaths of <i>immortelles</i> + above their marble effigies. + </p> + <p> + In the Theatre Français, I saw Rachel, the actress. She appeared in the + character of "Virginia," in a tragedy of that name, by the poet Latour. + Her appearance as she came upon the stage alone, convinced me she would + not belie her renown. She is rather small in stature, with dark, piercing + eyes and rich black hair; her lips are full, but delicately formed, and + her features have a marked yet flexible outline, which conveys the + minutest shades of expression. Her voice is clear, deep and thrilling, and + like sonic grand strain of music, there is power and meaning in its + slightest modulations. Her gestures embody the very spirit of the + character; she has so perfectly attained that rare harmony of thought, + sound and action, or rather, that unity of feeling which renders them + harmonious, that her acting seems the unstudied, irrepressible impulse of + her soul. With the first sentence she uttered, I forgot Rachel. I only saw + the innocent Roman girl; I awaited in suspense and with a powerful + sympathy, the developement of the oft-told tragedy. My blood grew warm + with indignation when the words of Appius roused her to anger, and I could + scarcely keep back my tears, when, with a voice broken by sobs, she bade + farewell to the protecting gods of her father's hearth. + </p> + <p> + Among the bewildering variety of ancient ornaments and implements in the + Egyptian Gallery of the Louvre, I saw an object of startling interest. A + fragment of the Iliad, written nearly three thousand years ago! One may + even dare to conjecture that the torn and half-mouldered slip of papyrus, + upon which he gazes, may have been taken down from the lips of the + immortal Chiun. The eyes look on those faded characters, and across the + great gulf of Time, the soul leaps into the Past, brought into shadowy + nearness by a mirage of the mind. There, as in the desert, images start + up, vivid, yet of a vague and dreamy beauty. We see the olive groves of + Greece—white-robed youths and maidens sit in the shade of swaying + boughs—and one of them reads aloud, in words that sound like the + clashing of shields, the deeds of Achilles. + </p> + <p> + As we step out the western portal of the Tuileries, a beautiful scene + greets us. We look on the palace garden, fragrant with flowers and classic + with bronze copies of ancient sculpture. Beyond this, broad gravel walks + divide the flower-bordered lawns and ranks of marble demigods and heroes + look down on the joyous crowd. Children troll their hoops along the + avenues or skip the rope under the clipped lindens, whose boughs are now + tinged a pale yellow by the bursting buds. The swans glide about on a pond + in the centre, begging bread of the bystanders, who watch a miniature ship + which the soft breeze carries steadily across. Paris is unseen, but <i>heard</i>, + on every side; only the Column of Luxor and the Arc de Triomphe rise blue + and grand above the top of the forest. What with the sound of voices, the + merry laughter of the children and a host of smiling faces, the scene + touches a happy chord in one's heart, and he mingles with it, lost in + pleasant reverie, till the sounds fade away with the fading light. + </p> + <p> + Just below the Baths of the Louvre, there are several floating barges + belonging to the washer-women, anchored at the foot of the great stone + staircase leading down to the water. They stand there day after day, + beating their clothes upon flat boards and rinsing them in the Seine. One + day there seemed to have been a wedding or some other cause of rejoicing + among them, for a large number of the youngest were talking in great glee + on one of the platforms of the staircase, while a handsome, German-looking + youth stood near, with a guitar slung around his neck. He struck up a + lively air, and the girls fell into a droll sort of a dance. They went at + it heavily and roughly enough, but made up in good humor what they lacked + in grace; the older members of the craft looked up from their work with + satisfaction and many shouts of applause wore sent down to them from the + spectators on the Quai and the Pont Neuf. Not content with this, they + seized on some luckless men who were descending the steps, and clasping + them with their powerful right arms, spun them around like so many tops + and sent them whizzing off at a tangent. Loud bursts of laughter greeted + this performance, and the stout river maidens returned to their dance with + redoubled spirit. + </p> + <p> + Yesterday, the famous procession of the "<i>boeuf gras</i>" took place for + the second time, with great splendor. The order of march had been duly + announced beforehand, and by noon all the streets and squares through + which it was to pass, were crowded with waiting spectators. Mounted gens + d'armes rode constantly to and fro, to direct the passage of vehicles and + keep an open thoroughfare. Thousands of country peasants poured into the + city, the boys of whom were seen in all directions, blowing distressingly + through hollow ox-horns. Altogether, the spirit of nonsense which animated + the crowd, displayed itself very amusingly. + </p> + <p> + A few mounted guards led the procession, followed by a band of music. Then + appeared Roman lictors and officers of sacrifice, leading Dagobert, the + famous bull of Normandy, destined to the honor of being slaughtered as the + Carnival beef. He trod rather tenderly, finding, no doubt, a difference + between the meadows of Caen and the pavements of Paris, and I thought he + would have been willing to forego his gilded horns and flowery crown, to + get back there again. His weight was said to be four thousand pounds, and + the bills pompously declared that he had no rival in France, except the + elephant in the <i>Jardin des Plantes</i>. + </p> + <p> + After him came the farmer by whom he was raised, and M. Roland, the + butcher of the carnival, followed by a hundred of the same craft, dressed + as cavaliers of the different ages of France. They made a very showy + appearance, although the faded velvet and soiled tinsel of their mantles + were rather too apparent by daylight. + </p> + <p> + After all these had gone by, came an enormous triumphal car, very + profusely covered with gilding and ornamental flowers. A fellow with long + woollen hair and beard, intended to represent Time, acted as driver. In + the car, under a gilded canopy, reposed a number of persons, in blue silk + smocks and yellow "fleshtights," said to be Venus, Apollo, the Graces, + &c. but I endeavored in vain to distinguish one divinity from another. + However, three children on the back seat, dressed in the same style, with + the addition of long flaxy ringlets, made very passable Cupids. This + closed the march; which passed onward towards the Place de la Concorde, + accompanied by the sounds of music and the shouts of the mob. The broad, + splendid line of Boulevards, which describe a semi-circle around the heart + of the city, were crowded, and for the whole distance of three miles, it + required no slight labor to make one's way. People in masks and fancy + costumes were continually passing and re-passing, and I detected in more + than one of the carriages, checks rather too fair to suit the slouched + hunter's hats which shaded them. It seemed as if all Paris was taking a + holiday, and resolved to make the most of it. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0046" id="link2HCH0046"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVI. — A GLIMPSE OF NORMANDY. + </h2> + <p> + After a residence of five weeks, which, in spite of some few troubles, + passed away quickly and delightfully, I turned my back on Paris. It was + not regret I experienced on taking my seat in the cars for Versailles, but + that feeling of reluctance with which we leave places whose brightness and + gaiety force the mind away from serious toil. Steam, however, cuts short + all sentiment, and in much less time than it takes to bid farewell to a + German, we had whizzed past the Place d'Europe, through the barrier, and + were watching the spires start up from the receding city, on the way to + St. Cloud. + </p> + <p> + At Versailles I spent three hours in a hasty walk through the palace, + which allowed but a bare glance at the gorgeous paintings of Horace + Vernet. His "Taking of Constantine" has the vivid look of reality. The + white houses shine in the sun, and from the bleached earth to the blue and + dazzling sky, there seems to hang a heavy, scorching atmosphere. The white + smoke of the artillery curls almost visibly off the canvass, and the + cracked and half-sprung walls look as if about to topple down on the + besiegers. One series of halls is devoted to the illustration of the + knightly chronicles of France, from the days of Charlemagne to those of + Bayard and Gaston de Foix. Among these pictured legends, I looked with the + deepest interest on that of the noble girl of Orleans. Her countenance—the + same in all these pictures and in a beautiful statue of her, which stands + in one of the corridors—is said to be copied from an old and + well-authenticated portrait. United to the sweetness and purity of peasant + beauty, she has the lofty brow and inspired expression of a prophetess. + There is a soft light in her full blue eye that does not belong to earth. + I wonder not the soldiery deemed her chosen by God to lead them to + successful battle; had I lived in those times I could have followed her + consecrated banner to the ends of the earth. In the statue, she stands + musing, with her head drooping forward, as if the weight of the + breastplate oppressed her woman's heart; the melancholy soul which shines + through the marble seems to forebode the fearful winding-up of her + eventful destiny. + </p> + <p> + The afternoon was somewhat advanced, by the time I had seen the palace and + gardens. After a hurried dinner at a restaurant, I shouldered my knapsack + and took the road to St. Germain. The day was gloomy and cheerless, and I + should have felt very lonely but for the thought of soon reaching England. + There is no time of the year more melancholy than a cold, cloudy day in + March; whatever may be the beauties of pedestrian traveling in fairer + seasons, my experience dictates that during winter storms and March + glooms, it had better be dispensed with. However, I pushed on to St. + Germain, threaded its long streets, looked down from the height over its + magnificent tract of forest and turned westward down the Seine. Owing to + the scantiness of villages, I was obliged to walk an hour and a half in + the wind and darkness, before I reached a solitary inn. As I opened the + door and asked for lodging, the landlady inquired if I had the necessary + papers. I answered in the affirmative and was admitted. While I was eating + supper, they prepared their meal on the other end of the small table and + sat down together. They fell into the error, so common to ignorant + persons, of thinking a foreigner could not understand them, and began + talking quite unconcernedly about me. "Why don't he take the railroad?" + said the old man: "he must have very little money—it would be bad + for us if he had none." "Oh!" remarked his son, "if he had none, he would + not be sitting there so quiet and unconcerned." I thought there was some + knowledge of human nature in this remark. "And besides," added the + landlady, "there is no danger for us, for we have his passport." Of course + I enjoyed this in secret, and mentally pardoned their suspicions, when I + reflected that the high roads between Paris and London are frequented by + many imposters, which makes the people naturally mistrustful. I walked all + the next day through a beautiful and richly cultivated country. The early + fruit trees were bursting into bloom, and the farmers led out their cattle + to pasturage in the fresh meadows. The scenery must be delightful in + summer—worthy of all that has been said or sung about lovely + Normandy. On the morning of the third day, before reaching Rouen, I saw at + a distance the remains of Chateau Galliard, the favorite castle of Richard + Coeur de Lion. Rouen breathes everywhere of the ancient times of Normandy. + Nothing can be more picturesque than its quaint, irregular wooden houses, + and the low, mossy mills, spanning the clear streams which rush through + its streets. The Cathedral, with its four towers, rises from among the + clustered cottages like a giant rook, split by the lightning and worn by + the rains of centuries is into a thousand fantastic shapes. + </p> + <p> + Resuming my walk in the afternoon, I climbed the heights west of the city, + and after passing through a suburb four or five miles in length, entered + the vale of the Cailly. This is one of the sweetest scenes in France. It + lies among the woody hills like a Paradise, with its velvet meadows and + villas and breathing gardens. The grass was starred with daisies and if I + took a step into the oak and chesnut woods, I trampled on thousands of + anemones and fragrant daffodils. The upland plain, stretching inward from + the coast, wears a different character. As I ascended, towards evening, + and walked over its monotonous swells, I felt almost homesick beneath its + saddening influence. The sun, hazed over with dull clouds, gave out that + cold and lifeless light which is more lonely than complete darkness. The + wind, sweeping dismally over the fields, sent clouds of blinding dust down + the road, and as it passed through the forests, the myriads of fine twigs + sent up a sound as deep and grand as the roar of a roused ocean. Every + chink of the Norman cottage where I slept, whistled most drearily, and as + I looked out the little window of my room, the trees were swaying in the + gloom, and long, black clouds scudded across the sky. Though my bed was + poor and hard, it was a sublime sound that cradled me into slumber. Homer + might have used it as the lullaby of Jove. + </p> + <p> + My last day on the continent came. I rose early and walked over the hills + towards Dieppe. The scenery grew more bleak as I approached the sea, but + the low and sheltered valleys preserved the pastoral look of the interior. + In the afternoon, as I climbed a long, elevated ridge, over which a strong + northwester was blowing, I was struck with a beautiful rustic church, in + one of the dells below me. While admiring its neat tower I had gained + unconsciously the summit of the hill, and on turning suddenly around, lo! + there was the glorious old Atlantic stretching far before and around me! A + shower was sweeping mistily along the horizon and I could trace the white + line of the breakers that foamed at the foot of the cliffs. The scene came + over me like a vivid electric shock, and I gave an involuntary shout, + which might have been heard in all the valleys around. After a year and a + half of wandering over the continent, that gray ocean was something to be + revered and loved, for it clasped the shores of my native America. + </p> + <p> + I entered Dieppe in a heavy shower, and after finding an inn suited to my + means and obtaining a <i>permis d'embarquement</i> from the police office, + I went out to the battlements and looked again on the sea. The landlord + promised to call me in time for the boat, but my anxiety waked me sooner, + and mistaking the strokes of the cathedral bell, I shouldered my knapsack + and went down to the wharf at one o'clock. No one was stirring on board + the boat, and I was obliged to pace the silent, gloomy streets of the town + for two hours. I watched the steamer glide out on the rainy channel, and + turning into the topmost berth, drew the sliding curtain and strove to + keep out cold and sea-sickness. But it was unavailing; a heavy storm of + snow and rain rendered our passage so dreary that I did not stir until we + were approaching the chain pier of Brighton. + </p> + <p> + I looked out on the foggy shores of England with a feeling of relief; my + tongue would now be freed from the difficult bondage of foreign languages, + and my ears be rejoiced with the music of my own. After two hours' delay + at the Custom House, I took my seat in an open car for London. The day was + dull and cold; the sun resembled a milky blotch in the midst of a leaden + sky. I sat and shivered, as we flew onward, amid the rich, cultivated + English scenery. At last the fog grew thicker; the road was carried over + the tops of houses; the familiar dome of St. Paul's stood out above the + spires; and I was again in London! + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0047" id="link2HCH0047"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVII. — LOCKHART, BERNARD BARTON AND CROLY—LONDON + CHIMES AND GREENWICH FAIR. + </h2> + <p> + My circumstances, on arriving at London, were again very reduced. A franc + and a half constituted the whole of my funds. This, joined to the + knowledge of London expenses, rendered instant exertion necessary, to + prevent still greater embarrassment. I called on a printer the next + morning, hoping to procure work, but found, as I had no documents with me + to show I had served a regular apprenticeship, this would be extremely + difficult, although workmen were in great demand. Mr. Putnam, however, on + whom I had previously called, gave me employment for a time in his + publishing establishment, and thus I was fortunately enabled to await the + arrival of a remittance from home. + </p> + <p> + Mrs. Trollope, whom I met in Florence, kindly gave me a letter to Murray, + the publisher, and I visited him soon after my arrival. In his library I + saw the original portraits of Byron, Moore, Campbell and the other authors + who were intimate with him and his father. A day or two afterwards I had + the good fortune to breakfast with Lockhart and Bernard Barton, at the + house of the former. Mr. Murray, through whom the invitation was given, + accompanied me there. As it was late when we arrived at Regent's Park, we + found them waiting, and sat down immediately to breakfast. + </p> + <p> + I was much pleased with Lockhart's appearance and manners. He has a noble, + manly countenance—in fact, the handsomest English face I ever saw—a + quick, dark eye and an ample forehead, shaded by locks which show, as yet, + but few threads of gray. There is a peculiar charm in his rich, soft + voice; especially when reciting poetry, it has a clear, organ-like + vibration, which thrills deliciously on the ear. His daughter, who sat at + the head of the table, is a most lovely and amiable girl. + </p> + <p> + Bernard Burton, who is now quite an old man, is a very lively and sociable + Friend. His head is gray and almost bald, but there is still plenty of + fire in his eyes and life in his limbs. His many kind and amiable + qualities endear him to a large circle of literary friends. He still + continues writing, and within the last year has brought out a volume of + simple, touching "Household Verses." A picture of cheerful and contented + old age has never been more briefly and beautifully drawn, than in the + following lines, which he sent me, in answer to my desire to possess one + of his poems in his own hand: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + STANZAS. + + I feel that I am growing old, + Nor wish to hide that truth; + Conscious my heart is not more cold + Than in my by-gone youth. + + I cannot roam the country round, + As I was wont to do; + My feet a scantier circle bound, + My eyes a narrower view. + + But on my mental vision rise + Bright scenes of beauty still: + Morn's splendor, evening's glowing skies, + Valley, and grove, and hill. + + Nor can infirmities o'erwhelm + The purer pleasures brought + From the immortal spirit's realm + Of feeling and of Thought! + + My heart! let not dismay or doubt + In thee an entrance win! + Thou <i>hast</i> enjoyed thyself <i>without</i>— + <i>Now seek thy joy within</i>! +</pre> + <p> + During breakfast he related to us a pleasant anecdote of Scott. He once + wrote to the poet in behalf of a young lady, who wished to have the + description of Melrose, in the "Lay of the last Minstrel," in the poet's + own writing. Scott sent it, but added these lines to the conclusion: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Then go, and muse with deepest awe + On what the writer never saw; + Who would not wander 'neath the moon + To see what he could see at noon!" +</pre> + <p> + We went afterwards into Lockhart's library, which was full of interesting + objects. I saw the private diary of Scott, kept until within a short time + of his death. It was melancholy to trace the gradual failing of all his + energies in the very wavering of the autograph. In a large volume of his + correspondence, containing letters from Campbell, Wordsworth, Byron, and + all the distinguished characters of the age, I saw Campbell's "Battle of + the Baltic" in his own hand. I was highly interested and gratified with + the whole visit; the more so, as Mr. Lockhart had invited me voluntarily, + without previous acquaintance. I have since heard him spoken of in the + highest terms of esteem. + </p> + <p> + I went one Sunday to the Church of St. Stephen, to hear Croly, the poet. + The service, read by a drowsy clerk, was long and monotonous; I sat in a + side-aisle, looking up at the dome, and listening to the rain which dashed + in torrents against the windowpanes. At last, a tall, gray-haired man came + down the passage. He bowed with a sad smile, so full of benevolence and + resignation, that it went into my heart at once, and I gave him an + involuntary tribute of sympathy. He has a heavy affliction to bear—the + death of his gallant son, one of the officers who were slain in the late + battle of Ferozeshaw. His whole manner betrays the tokens of subdued but + constant grief. + </p> + <p> + His sermon was peculiarly finished and appropriate; the language was clear + and forcible, without that splendor of thought and dazzling vividness of + imagery which mark "Salathiel." Yet I could not help noticing that he + delighted to dwell on the spiritualities of religion, rather than its + outward observances, which he seemed inclined to hurry over as lightly as + possible. His mild, gray eye and lofty forehead are more like the + benevolent divine than the poet. I thought of Salathiel, and looked at the + dignified, sorrowful man before me. The picture of the accursed Judean + vanished, and his own solemn lines rang on my ear: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The mighty grave + Wraps lord and slave, + Nor pride, nor poverty dares come + Within that prison-house, that tomb!" +</pre> + <p> + Whenever I hear them, or think of them again, I shall see, in memory, + Croly's calm, pale countenance. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The chimes, the chimes of Mother-land, + Of England, green and old; + That out from thane and ivied tower + A thousand years have tolled!" +</pre> + <p> + I often thought of Coxe's beautiful ballad, when, after a day spent in + Waterloo Place, I have listened, on my way homeward, to the chimes of + Mary-le-bone Chapel, sounding sweetly and clearly above all the din of the + Strand. There is something in their silvery vibration, which is far more + expressive than the ordinary tones of a bell. The ear becomes weary of a + continued toll—the sound of some bells seems to have nothing more in + it than the ordinary clang of metal—but these simple notes, + following one another so melodiously, fall on the ear, stunned by the + ceaseless roar of carriages or the mingled cries of the mob, as gently and + gratefully as drops of dew. Whether it be morning, and they ring out + louder and deeper through the mist, or midnight, when the vast ocean of + being beneath them surges less noisily than its wont, they are alike full + of melody and poetry. I have often paused, deep in the night, to hear + those clear tones, dropping down from the darkness, thrilling, with their + full, tremulous sweetness, the still air of the lighted Strand, and + winding away through dark, silent lanes and solitary courts, till the ear + of the care-worn watcher is scarcely stirred with their dying vibrations. + They seemed like those spirit-voices, which, at such times, speak almost + audibly to the heart. How delicious it must be, to those who dwell within + the limits of their sound, to wake from some happy dream and hear those + chimes blending in with their midnight fancies, like the musical echo of + the promised bliss. I love these eloquent bells, and I think there must be + many, living out a life of misery and suffering, to whom their tones come + with an almost human consolation. The natures of the very cockneys, who + never go without the horizon of their vibrations, is, to my mind, invested + with <i>one</i> hue of poetry! + </p> + <p> + A few days ago, an American friend invited me to accompany him to + Greenwich Fair. We took a penny steamer from Hungerford Market to London + Bridge, and jumped into the cars, which go every live minutes. Twelve + minutes' ride above the chimneys of London and the vegetable-fields of + Rotherhithe and Deptford brought us to Greenwich, we followed the stream + of people which was flowing from all parts of the city into the Park. + </p> + <p> + Here began the merriment. We heard on every side the noise of the + "scratchers," or, as the venders of these articles denominated them—"the + fun of the fair." By this is meant a little notched wheel, with a piece of + wood fastened on it, like a miniature watchman's rattle. The "fun" + consists in drawing them down the back of any one you pass, when they make + a sound precisely like that of ripping cloth. The women take great delight + in this, and as it is only deemed politeness to return the compliment, we + soon had enough to do. Nobody seemed to take the diversion amiss, but it + was so irresistibly droll to see a large crowd engaged in this singular + amusement, that we both burst into hearty laughter. + </p> + <p> + As we began ascending Greenwich Hill, we were assailed with another kind + of game. The ground was covered with smashed oranges, with which the + people above and below were stoutly pelting each other. Half a dozen heavy + ones whizzed uncomfortably near my head as I went up, and I saw several + persons get the full benefit of a shot on their backs and breasts. The + young country lads and lasses amused themselves by running at full spend + down the steep side of a hill. This was, however, a feat attended with + some risk; for I saw one luckless girl describe an arc of a circle, of + which her feet was the centre and her body the radius. All was noise and + nonsense. They ran to and fro under the long, hoary bough of the venerable + oaks that crest the summit, and clattered down the magnificent + forest-avenues, whose budding foliage gave them little shelter from the + passing April showers. + </p> + <p> + The view from the top is splendid. The stately Thames curves through the + plain below, which loses itself afar off in the mist; Greenwich, with its + massive hospital, lies just at one's feet, and in a clear day the domes of + London skirt the horizon. The wood of the Park is entirely oak—the + majestic, dignified, English oak—which covers, in picturesque + clumps, the sides and summits of the two billowy hills. It must be a sweet + place in summer, when the dark, massive foliage is heavy on every mossy + arm, and the smooth and curving sward shines with thousands of + field-flowers. + </p> + <p> + Owing to the showers, the streets were coated with mud, of a consistence + as soft and yielding as the most fleecy Persian carpet. Near the gate, + boys were holding scores of donkeys, which they offered us at threepence + for a ride of two miles. We walked down towards the river, and came at + last to a group of tumblers, who with muddy hands and feet were throwing + somersets in the open street. I recognized them as old acquaintances of + the Rue St. Antoine and the Champs Elysées; but the little boy who cried + before, because he did not want to bend his head and foot into a ring, + like a hoop-snake, had learned his part better by this time, so that he + went through it all without whimpering and came off with only a fiery red + face. The exercises of the young gentlemen were of course very graceful + and classic, and the effect of their <i>poses</i> of strength was very + much heightened by the muddy foot-marks which they left on each other's + orange-colored skins. + </p> + <p> + The avenue of booths was still more diverting. Here under sheets of leaky + awning, were exposed for sale rows of gilded gingerbread kings and queens, + and I cannot remember how many men and women held me fast by the arms, + determined to force me into buying a pound of them. We paused at the sign: + "SIGNOR URBANI'S GRAND MAGICAL DISPLAY." The title was attractive, so we + paid the penny admission, and walked behind the dark, mysterious curtain. + Two bare brick walls, three benches and a little boy appeared to us. A + sheet hung before us upon which quivered the shadow of some terrible head. + At my friend's command, the boy (also a spectator) put out the light, when + the awful and grinning face of a black woman became visible. While we were + admiring this striking production, thus mysteriously revealed, Signor + Urbani came in, and seeing no hope of any more spectators, went behind the + curtain and startled our sensitive nerves with six or seven skeleton and + devil apparitions, winding up the wonderful entertainment with the same + black head. We signified our entire approbation by due applause and then + went out to seek further novelties. + </p> + <p> + The centre of the square was occupied by swings, where some eight or ten + boat-loads of persons were flying topsy-turvy into the air, making one + giddy to look at them, and constant fearful shrieks arose from the lady + swingers, at finding themselves in a horizontal or inverted position, high + above the ground. One of the machines was like a great wheel, with four + cars attached, which mounted and descended with their motley freight. We + got into the boat by way of experiment. The starting motion was pleasant, + but very soon it flew with a swiftness and to a height rather alarming. I + began to repent having chosen such a mode of amusement, but held on as + well as I could, in my uneasy place. Presently we mounted till the long + beam of our boat was horizontal; at one instant, I saw three young ladies + below me, with their heads downward, like a shadow in the water—the + next I was turned heels up, looking at thorn as a shadow does at its + original. I was fast becoming sea-sick, when, after a few minutes of such + giddy soaring, the ropes were slackened and we all got out, looking + somewhat pale, and feeling nervous, if nothing else. + </p> + <p> + There were also many great tents, hung with boughs and lighted with + innumerable colored lamps, where the people danced their country dances in + a choking cloud of dry saw-dust. Conjurors and gymnastic performers were + showing off on conspicuous platforms, and a continual sound of drums, + cymbals and shrill trumpets called the attention of the crowd to some + "Wonderful Exhibition"—some infant phenomenon, giant, or + three-headed pig. A great part of the crowd belonged evidently to the very + worst part of society, but the watchfulness of the police prevented any + open disorder. We came away early and in a quarter of an hour were in busy + London, leaving far behind us the revel and debauch, which was prolonged + through the whole night. + </p> + <p> + London has the advantage of one of the most gloomy atmospheres in the + world. During this opening spring weather, no light and scarcely any + warmth can penetrate the dull, yellowish-gray mist, which incessantly + hangs over the city. Sometimes at noon we have for an hour or two a sickly + gleam of sunshine, but it is soon swallowed up by the smoke and drizzling + fog. The people carry umbrellas at all times, for the rain seems to drop + spontaneously out of the very air, without wailing for the usual + preparation of a gathering cloud. Professor Espy's rules would be of + little avail here. + </p> + <p> + A few days ago we had a real fog—a specimen of November weather, as + the people said. If November wears such a mantle, London, during that + sober month, must furnish a good idea of the gloom of Hades. The streets + wore wrapped in a veil of dense mist, of a dirty yellow color, as if the + air had suddenly grown thick and mouldy. The houses on the opposite sides + of the street were invisible, and the gas lamps, lighted in the shops, + burned with a white and ghastly flame. Carriages ran together in the + streets, and I was kept constantly on the look-out, lest some one should + come suddenly out of the cloud around me, and we should meet with a shock + like that of two knights at a tournament. As I stood in the centre of + Trafalgar Square, with every object invisible around me, it reminded me, + (hoping the comparison will not be accepted in every particular) of Satan + resting in the middle of Chaos. The weather sometimes continues thus for + whole days together. + </p> + <p> + <i>April 26.</i>—An hour and a half of land are still allowed us, + and then we shall set foot on the back of the oak-ribbed leviathan, which + will be our home until a thousand leagues of blue ocean are crossed. I + shall hear the old Aldgate clock strike for the last time—I shall + take a last walk through the Minories and past the Tower yard, and as we + glide down the Thames, St. Pauls, half-hidden in mist and coal-smoke, will + probably be my last glimpse of London. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0048" id="link2HCH0048"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVIII. — HOMEWARD BOUND——CONCLUSION. + </h2> + <p> + We slid out of St. Katharine's Dock at noon on the appointed day, and with + a pair of sooty steamboats hitched to our vessel, moved slowly down the + Thames in mist and drizzling rain. I stayed on the wet deck all afternoon, + that I might more forcibly and joyously feel we were again in motion on + the waters and homeward bound! My attention was divided between the dreary + views of Blackwall, Greenwich and Woolwich, and the motley throng of + passengers who were to form our ocean society. An English family, going + out to settle in Canada, were gathered together in great distress and + anxiety, for the father had gone ashore in London at a late hour, and was + left behind. When we anchored for the night at Gravesend, their fears were + quieted by his arrival in a skiff from the shore, as he had immediately + followed us by railroad. + </p> + <p> + My cousin and B—— had hastened on from Paris to join me, and a + day before the sailing of the "Victoria," we took berths in the second + cabin, for twelve pounds ten shillings each, which in the London line of + packets, includes coarse but substantial fare for the whole voyage. Our + funds were insufficient to pay even this; but Captain Morgan, less + mistrustful than my Norman landlord, generously agreed that the remainder + of the fare should be paid in America. B—— and I, with two + young Englishmen, took possession of a State-room of rough boards, lighted + by a bull's-eye, which in stormy weather leaked so much that our trunks + swam in water. A narrow mattrass and blanket, with a knapsack for a + pillow, formed a passable bed. A long entry between the rooms, lighted by + a feeble swinging lamp, was filled with a board table, around which the + thirty-two second cabin passengers met to discuss politics and salt pork, + favorable winds and hard sea-biscuit. + </p> + <p> + We lay becalmed opposite Sheerness the whole of the second day. At dusk a + sudden squall came up, which drove us foaming towards the North Foreland. + When I went on deck in the morning, we had passed Dover and Brighton, and + the Isle of Wight was rising dim ahead of us. The low English coast on our + right was bordered by long reaches of dazzling chalky sand, which + glittered along the calm blue water. + </p> + <p> + Gliding into the Bay of Portsmouth, we dropped anchor opposite the + romantic town of Ryde, built on the sloping shore of the green Isle of + Wight. Eight or nine vessels of the Experimental Squadron were anchored + near us, and over the houses of Portsmouth, I saw the masts of the Victory—the + flag-ship in the battle of Trafalgar, on board of which Nelson was killed. + The wind was not strong enough to permit the passage of the Needles, so at + midnight we succeeded in wearing back again into the channel, around the + Isle of Wight. A head wind forced us to tack away towards the shore of + France. We were twice in sight of the rocky coast of Brittany, near + Cherbourg, but the misty promontory of Land's End was our last glimpse of + the old world. + </p> + <p> + On one of our first days at sea, I caught a curlew, which came flying on + weary wings towards us, and alighted on one of the boats. Two of his + brethren, too much exhausted or too timid to do likewise, dropped flat on + the waves and resigned themselves to their fate without a struggle. I + slipped up and caught his long, lank legs, while he was resting with + flagging wings and half-shut eyes. We fed him, though it was difficult to + get anything down his reed-shaped bill; but he took kindly to our + force-work, and when we let him loose on the deck, walked about with an + air quite tame and familiar. He died, however, two days afterwards. A + French pigeon, which was caught in the rigging, lived and throve during + the whole of the passage. + </p> + <p> + A few days afterwards, a heavy storm came on, and we were all sleepless + and sea-sick, as long as it lasted. Thanks, however, to a beautiful law of + memory, the recollection of that dismal period soon lost its + unpleasantness, while the grand forms of beauty the vexed ocean presented, + will remain forever, as distinct and abiding images. I kept on deck as + long as I could stand, watching the giant waves over which our vessel took + her course. They rolled up towards us, thirty or forty feet in height—dark + gray masses, changing to a beautiful vitriol tint, wherever the light + struck through their countless and changing crests. It was a glorious + thing to see our good ship mount slowly up the side of one of these watery + lulls, till her prow was lifted high in air, then, rocking over its brow, + plunge with a slight quiver downward, and plough up a briny cataract, as + she struck the vale. I never before realized the terrible sublimity of the + sea. And yet it was a pride to see how man—strong in his godlike + will—could bid defiance to those whelming surges, and bravo their + wrath unharmed. + </p> + <p> + We swung up and down on the billows, till we scarcely knew which way to + stand. The most grave and sober personages suddenly found themselves + reeling in a very undignified manner, and not a few measured their lengths + on the slippery decks. Boxes and barrels were affected in like manner; + everything danced around us. Trunks ran out from under the berths; + packages leaped down from the shelves; chairs skipped across the rooms, + and at table, knives, forks and mugs engaged in a general waltz and <i>break + down</i>. One incident of this kind was rather laughable. One night, about + midnight, the gale, which had been blowing violently, suddenly lulled, "as + if," to use a sailor's phrase, "it had been chopped off!" Instantly the + ship gave a tremendous lurch, which was the signal for a general breaking + loose. Two or three others followed, so violent, that for a moment I + imagined the vessel had been thrown on her beam ends. Trunks, crockery and + barrels went banging down from one end of the ship to the other. The women + in the steerage set up an awful scream, and the German emigrants, thinking + we were in terrible danger, commenced praying with might and main. In the + passage near our room stood several barrels, filled with broken dishes, + which at every lurch went banging from side to side, jarring the board + partition and making a horrible din. I shall not soon forget the Babel + which kept our eyes open that night. + </p> + <p> + The 19th of May a calm came on. Our white wings flapped idly on the mast, + and only the top-gallant sails were bent enough occasionally to lug us + along at a mile an hour. A barque from Ceylon, making the most of the + wind, with every rag of canvass set, passed us slowly on the way eastward. + The sun went down unclouded, and a glorious starry night brooded over us. + Its clearness and brightness were to me indications of America. I longed + to be on shore. The forests about home were then clothed in the delicate + green of their first leaves, and that bland weather embraced the sweet + earth like a blessing of heaven. The gentle breath from out the west + seemed made for the odor of violets, and as it came to me over the + slightly-ruflled deep, I thought how much sweeter it were to feel it, + while "wasting in wood-paths the voluptuous hours." + </p> + <p> + Soon afterwards a fresh wind sprung up, which increased rapidly, till + every sail was bent to the full. Our vessel parted the brine with an + arrowy glide, the ease and grace of which it is impossible to describe. + The breeze held on steadily for two or three days, which brought us to the + southern extremity of the Banks. Here the air felt so sharp and chilling, + that I was afraid we might be under the lee of an iceberg, but in the + evening the dull gray mass of clouds lifted themselves from the horizon, + and the sun set in clear, American beauty away beyond Labrador. The next + morning we were enveloped in a dense fog, and the wind which bore us + onward was of a piercing coldness. A sharp look-out was kept on the bow, + but as we could see but a short distance, it might have been dangerous had + we met one of the Arctic squadron. At noon it cleared away again, and the + bank of fog was visible a long time astern, piled along the horizon, + reminding me of the Alps, as seen from the plains of Piedmont. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st, the fortunate wind which carried us from the Banks, failed us + about thirty-five miles from Sandy Hook. We lay in the midst of the + mackerel fishery, with small schooners anchored all around us. Fog, dense + and impenetrable, weighed on the moveless ocean, like an atmosphere of + wool. The only incident to break the horrid monotony of the day, was the + arrival of a pilot, with one or two newspapers, detailing the account of + the Mexican War. We heard in the afternoon the booming of the surf along + the low beach of Long Island—hollow and faint, like the murmur of a + shell. When the mist lifted a little, we saw the faint line of breakers + along the shore. The Germans gathered on deck to sing their old, familiar + songs, and their voices blended beautifully together in the stillness. + </p> + <p> + Next morning at sunrise we saw Sandy Hook; at nine o'clock we were + telegraphed in New York by the station at Coney Island; at eleven the + steamer "Hercules" met us outside the Hook; and at noon we were gliding up + the Narrows, with the whole ship's company of four hundred persons on + deck, gazing on the beautiful shores of Staten Island and agreeing almost + universally, that it was the most delightful scene they had ever looked + upon. + </p> + <p> + And now I close the story of my long wandering, as I began it—with a + lay written on the deep. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + HOMEWARD BOUND. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Farewell to Europe! Days have come and gone + Since misty England set behind the sea. + Our ship climbs onward o'er the lifted waves, + That gather up in ridges, mountain-high, + And like a sea-god, conscious in his power, + Buffets the surges. Storm-arousing winds + That sweep, unchecked, from frozen Labrador, + Make wintry music through the creaking shrouds. + Th' horizon's ring, that clasps the dreary view, + Lays mistily upon the gray Atlantic's breast. + Shut out, at times, by bulk of sparry blue, + That, rolling near us, heaves the swaying prow + High on its shoulders, to descend again + Ploughing a thousand cascades, and around + Spreading the frothy foam. These watery gulfs, + With storm, and winds far-sweeping, hem us in, + Alone upon the waters! + + Days must pass— + Many and weary—between sea and sky. + Our eyes, that long e'en now for the fresh green + Of sprouting forests, and the far blue stretch + Of regal mountains piled along the sky, + Must see, for many an eve, the level sun + Sheathe, with his latest gold, the heaving brine, + By thousand ripples shivered, or Night's pomp + Brooding in silence, ebon and profound, + Upon the murmuring darkness of the deep, + Broken by flashings, that the parted wave + Sends white and star-like throujch its bursting foam. + Yet not more dear the opening dawn of heaven + Poured on the earth in an Italian May, + When souls take wings upon the scented air + Of starry meadows, and the yearning heart + Pains with deep sweetness in the balmy time, + Than these gray morns, and days of misty blue, + And surges, never-ceasing;—for our prow + Points to the sunset like a morning ray, + And o'er the waves, and through the sweeping storms, + Through day and darkness, rushes ever on, + Westward and westward still! What joy can send + The spirit thrilling onward with the wind, + In untamed exultation, like the thought + That fills the Homeward Bound? + + Country and home! + Ah! not the charm of silver-tongued romance, + Born of the feudal time, nor whatsoe'er + Of dying glory fills the golden realms + Of perished song, where heaven-descended Art + Still boasts her later triumphs, can compare + With that one thought of liberty inherited— + Of free life giv'n by fathers who were free, + And to be left to children freer still! + That pride and consciousness of manhood, caught + From boyish musings on the holy graves + Of hero-martyrs, and from every form + Which virgin Nature, mighty and unchained, + Takes in an empire not less proudly so— + Inspired in mountain airs, untainted yet + By thousand generations' breathing—felt + Like a near presence in the awful depths + Of unhewn forests, and upon the steep + Where giant rivers take their maddening plunge— + Has grown impatient of the stifling damps + Which hover close on Europe's shackled soil. + Content to tread awhile the holy steps + Of Art and Genius, sacred through all time, + The spirit breathed that dull, oppressive air— + Which, freighted with its tyrant-clouds, o'erweighs + The upward throb of many a nation's soul— + Amid those olden memories, felt the thrall. + But kept the birth-right of its freer home, + Here, on the world's blue highway, comes again + The voice of Freedom, heard amid the roar + Of sundered billows, while above the wave + Rise visions of the forest and the stream. + Like trailing robes the morning mists uproll, + Torn by the mountain pines; the flashing rills + Shout downward through the hollows of the vales; + Down the great river's bosom shining sails + Glide with a gradual motion, while from all— + Hamlet, and bowered homestead, and proud town— + Voices of joy ring up into heaven! + + Yet louder, winds! Urge on our keel, ye waves, + Swift as the spirit's yearnings! We would ride + With a loud stormy motion o'er your crests, + With tempests shouting like a sudden joy— + Interpreting our triumph! 'Tis your voice, + Ye unchained elements, alone can speak + The sympathetic feeling of the free— + The arrowy impulse of the Homeward Bound! + +</pre> + <hr /> + <p> + Although the narrative of my journey, "with knapsack and staff," is now + strictly finished, a few more words of explanation seem necessary, to + describe more fully the method of traveling which we adopted. I add them + the more willingly, as it is my belief that many, whose circumstances are + similar to mine, desire to undertake the same romantic journey. Some + matter-of-fact statements may be to them useful as well as interesting. + </p> + <p> + We found the pedestrian style not only by far the best way to become + acquainted with the people and sceneryof a country, but the pleasantest + mode of traveling. To be sure, the knapsack was, at first, rather heavy, + our feet were often sore and our limbs weary, but a few days walking made + a great difference, and after we had traveled two weeks, this disappeared + altogether. Every morning we rose as fresh and strong as if it had been + the first day—even after a walk of thirty miles, we felt but little + fatigue. We enjoyed slumber in its fullest luxury, and our spirits were + always light and joyous. We made it a rule to pay no regard to the + weather, unless it was so bad as to render walking unhealthy. Often, + during the day, we rested for half an hour on the grassy bank, or + sometimes, if it was warm weather, lay at full length in the shade with + our knapsacks under our heads. This is a pleasure which none but the + pedestrian can comprehend. + </p> + <p> + We always accepted a companion, of whatever kind, while walking—from + chimney-sweeps to barons. In a strange country one can learn something + from every peasant, and we neglected no opportunity, not only to obtain + information, but impart it. We found everywhere great curiosity respecting + America, and we were always glad to tell them all they wished to know. In + Germany, we were generally taken for Germans from some part of the country + where the dialect was a little different, or, if they remarked our foreign + peculiarities, they supposed we were either Poles, Russians, or Swiss. The + greatest ignorance in relation to America, prevails among the common + people. They imagine we are a savage race, without intelligence and almost + without law. Persons of education, who had some slight knowledge of our + history, showed a curiosity to know something of our political condition. + They are taught by the German newspapers (which are under a strict + censorship in this respect) to look only at the evil in our country, and + they almost invariably began by adverting to Slavery and Repudiation. + While we admitted, often with shame and mortification, the existence of + things so inconsistent with true republicanism, we endeavored to make them + comprehend the advantages enjoyed by the free citizen—the complete + equality of birth—which places America, despite her sins, far above + any other nation on earth. I could plainly see, by the kindling eye and + half-suppressed sigh, that they appreciated a freedom so immeasurably + greater than that which they enjoyed. + </p> + <p> + In large cities we always preferred to take the second or third-rate + hotels, which are generally visited by merchants and persons who travel on + business; for, with the same comforts as the first rank, they are nearly + twice as cheap. A traveler, with a guide-book and a good pair of eyes, can + also dispense with the services of a <i>courier</i>, whose duty it is to + conduct strangers about the city, from one lion to another. We chose + rather to find out and view the "sights" at our leisure. In small + villages, where we were often obliged to stop, we chose the best hotels, + which, particularly in Northern Germany and in Italy, are none too good. + But if it was a <i>post</i>, that is, a town where the post-chaise stops + to change horses, we usually avoided the post-hotel, where one must pay + high for having curtains before his windows and a more elegant cover on + his bed. In the less splendid country inns, we always found neat, + comfortable lodging, and a pleasant, friendly reception from the people. + They saluted us on entering, with "Be you welcome," and on leaving, wished + us a pleasant journey and good fortune. The host, when he brought us + supper or breakfast, lifted his cap, and wished us a good appetite—and + when he lighted us to our chambers, left us with "May you sleep well!" We + generally found honest, friendly people; they delighted in telling us + about the country around; what ruins there were in the neighborhood—and + what strange legends were connected with them. The only part of Europe + where it is unpleasant to travel in this manner, is Bohemia. We could + rarely find a comfortable inn; the people all spoke an unknown language, + and were not particularly celebrated for their honesty. Beside this, + travelers rarely go on foot in those regions; we were frequently taken for + traveling handworker, and subjected to imposition. + </p> + <p> + With regard to passports, although they were vexatious and often + expensive, we found little difficulty when we had acquainted ourselves + with the regulations concerning them. In France and Germany they are + comparatively little trouble; in Italy they are the traveler's greatest + annoyance. Americans are treated with less strictness, in this respect, + than citizens of other nations, and, owing to the absence of rank among + us, we also enjoy greater advantages of acquaintance and intercourse. + </p> + <p> + The expenses of traveling in England, although much greater than in our + own country, may, as we learned by experience, be brought, through + economy, within the same compass. Indeed, it is my belief, from + observation, that, with few exceptions, throughout Europe, where a + traveler enjoys the same comfort and abundance as in America, he must pay + the same prices. The principal difference is, that he only pays for what + he gets, so that, if he be content with the necessities of life, without + its luxuries, the expense is in proportion. I have given, at times, + through the foregoing chapters, the cost of travel and residence in + Europe, yet a connected estimate will better show the <i>minimum</i> + expense of a two years' pilgrimage: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Voyage to Liverpool, in the second cabin . . . . . . . . . . . $24.00 + Three weeks' travel in Ireland and Scotland . . . . . . . . . 25.00 + A week in London, at three shillings a day . . . . . . . . . . 4.50 + From London to Heidelberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15.00 + A month at Heidelberg, and trip to Frankfort . . . . . . . . . 20.00 + Seven months in Frankfort, at $10 per month . . . . . . . . . 70.00 + Fuel, passports, excursions and other expenses . . . . . . . . 30.00 + Tour through Cassel, the Hartz, Saxony, Austria, Bavaria, etc. 40.00 + A month in Frankfort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.00 + From Frankfort through Switzerland, and over the Alps + to Milan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15.00 + From Milan to Genoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 + Expenses from Genoa to Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.00 + Four months in Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.00 + Eight day's journey from Florence to Rome, two weeks in + Rome, voyage to Marseilles and journey to Paris . . . . . . 40.00 + Five weeks in Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15.00 + From Paris to London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.00 + Six weeks in London, at three shillings a day . . . . . . . . 31.00 + Passage home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.00 + ——— + $472.00 +</pre> + <p> + The cost for places of amusement, guides' fees, and other small expenses, + not included in this list, increase the sum total to $500, for which the + tour may be made. Now, having, I hope, established this to the reader's + satisfaction, I respectfully take leave of him. + </p> + <h3> + THE END. + </h3> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11535 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |