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diff --git a/old/11517.txt b/old/11517.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9773a4e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11517.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2857 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Out of Doors--California and Oregon, by J. A. Graves + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Out of Doors--California and Oregon + +Author: J. A. Graves + +Release Date: March 8, 2004 [EBook #11517] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CALIFORNIA AND OREGON *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + +Out of Doors +California and Oregon + + + +By J. A. Graves + + + +Profusely Illustrated + + + +1912 + + + + +Contents + +A Motor Trip in San Diego's Back Country +A Hunting Trip in the Long Ago +Professor Lo, Philosopher +A Great Day's Sport on Warner's Ranch +Boyhood Days in Early California +Last Quail Shoot of the Year 1911 +An Auto Trip Through the Sierras + + + +To the memory of my sons +Selwyn Emmett Graves and Jackson A. Graves, Jr. +Both of whom were nature lovers, this book is lovingly dedicated. + + + +Illustrations + +J. A. Graves Frontispiece +Mount Pitt +Cuyamaca Lake, Near Pine Hills +El Cajon Valley, San Diego County, from Schumann-Heink Point, Grossmont +In San Diego County +San Diego Mountain Scene +Fern Brake, Palomar Mountain +The Margarita Ranch House +San Diego and Coronado Islands from Grossmont +Grade on Palomar Mountain +Pelican Bay, Klamath Lake +On Klamath River +Klamath Lake and Link River +Spring Creek +Wood River, Oregon +The Killican +Williamson River +Scorpion Harbor, Santa Cruz Island +Smugglers' Cove, San Clemente Island +Arch Rock, Santa Cruz Island +Cueva Valdez, Santa Cruz Island +Lily Rock, Idyllwild +The Entrance and Mission Arches, Glenwood Mission Inn, Riverside +Magnolia Avenue and Government Indian School, Riverside +Hemet Valley from Foothills on the South +Ferris Valley Grain Field +Orange Groves Looking Southeast Across Hemet Valley, California +View from Serra Memorial Cross, Huntington Drive, Rubuidoux Mountain, + Riverside +Some Barley +Victoria Avenue, Riverside +A Rocky Stream +Fern Brakes Four Feet in Height at Fine Hills +California White Oak +Another View of Spring Creek +Harvesting in San Joaquin Valley +Nevada Falls from Glacier +Nevada Falls, Close Range +Point Upper Yosemite +Yosemite Falls +Cedar Creek at Fine Hills +Scene Near Fine Hills Lodge + + + +A Motor Trip in San Diego's Back Country. + +Come, you men and women automobilists, get off the paved streets of Los +Angeles and betake yourselves to the back country of San Diego county, +where you can enjoy automobile life to the utmost during the summer. +There drink in the pure air of the mountains, perfumed with the breath +of pines and cedars, the wild lilacs, the sweet-pea vines, and a +thousand aromatic shrubs and plants that render every hillside ever +green from base to summit. Lay aside the follies of social conditions, +and get back to nature, pure and unadorned, except with nature's charms +and graces. + +To get in touch with these conditions, take your machines as best you +can over any of the miserable roads, or rather apologies for roads, +until you get out into the highway recently constructed from Basset to +Pomona. Run into Pomona to Gary avenue, turn to the right and follow it +to the Chino ranch; follow the winding roads, circling to the Chino +hills, to Rincon, then on, over fairly good roads, to Corona. Pass +through that city, then down the beautiful Temescal Canyon to Elsinore. +Move on through Murrietta to Temecula. + +Three Routes. + +Beyond Temecula three routes are open to you. By one of them you keep to +the left, over winding roads full of interest and beauty, through a +great oak grove at the eastern base of Mt. Palomar. Still proceeding +through a forest of scattering oaks, you presently reach Warner's ranch +through a gate. Be sure and close all gates opened by you. Only vandals +leave gates open when they should be closed. + +Warner's ranch is a vast meadow, mostly level, but sloping from +northeast to southwest, with rolling hills and sunken valleys around its +eastern edge. A chain of mountains, steep and timber laden, almost +encircles the ranch. For a boundary mark on the northeastern side of the +ranch, are steep, rocky and forbidding looking mountains. Beyond them, +the desert. The ranch comprises some 57,000 acres, nearly all valley +land. It is well watered, filled with lakes, springs, meadows and +running streams, all draining to its lowest point, and forming the head +waters of the San Luis Rey River. + +You follow the road by which you enter the ranch, to the left, and in a +few miles' travel you bring up at Warner's Hot Springs, a resort famed +for many years for the curative properties of its waters. The springs +are now in charge of Mr. and Mrs. Stanford, and are kept in an admirable +manner, considering all of the difficulties they labor under. The run +from Los Angeles to the springs is about 140 miles, and can be made +easily in a day. Once there, the choice of many interesting trips is +open to you. + +Past Temecula. + +After leaving Temecula, another road much frequented by the autoists is +the right hand road by the Red Mountain grade to Fallbrook, either to +Del Mar, by way of Oceanside, or into the Escondido Valley by way of +Bonsal, Vista and San Marcos. The third route, the center one between +those I have described, leads to Pala. With a party of five in a +six-cylinder Franklin car, I went over the latter route on April 20th, +1911. Every inch of the road was full of interest. We passed through +Pala, with its ancient mission of that name, and its horde of Indian +inhabitants. The children of the Indian school were having a recess, and +they carried on just about in the same manner that so many "pale-faced" +children would. Leaving Pala, we followed the main road along the left +bank of the San Luis Rey River--where the San Diego Highway Commission +is now doing work, which will, when finished, bring one to Warner's +ranch by an easy grade--until we had gotten a few miles into the Pauma +rancho. We crossed the Pauma Creek, and some distance beyond it we left +the river to our right, turned sharply to the left, and ran up to the +base of Smith's, or Palomar Mountain. Then came the grade up the +mountain. + +If you are not stout-hearted, and haven't a powerful machine, avoid this +beautiful drive. If you are not driving an air-cooled car, carry extra +water with you. You will need it before you reach the top. The road is a +narrow zigzag, making an ascent of 4000 feet in a distance of from ten +to twelve miles of switch-backing around the face of a steep rock-ribbed +mountain. To add to its difficulties, the turns are so short that a long +car is compelled to back up to negotiate them. About an hour and a +quarter is required to make the trip up the mountain. We did all of it +on low gear. When the top is finally reached, the view of the +surrounding country is simply beyond description. + +Belated Spring. + +The mountain oaks of great size and broad of bough, were not yet fully +in leaf. Pines and cedars, and to my astonishment, many large sycamores, +were mingled with the oaks. A gladsome crop of luscious grasses covered +the earth. Shrubs and plants were bursting into bloom. As we moved on we +saw several wild pigeons in graceful flight among the trees. After +traveling the backbone of the mountain for some distance we came to a +dimly marked trail, leading to the left. The "Major Domo" of our party +said that this road led to Doane's Valley, and that we must go down it. +It was a straight up and down road, with exceedingly abrupt pitches, in +places damp and slippery, and covered with fallen leaves. At the bottom +of the descent, which it would have been impossible to retrace, we came +to a small stream. Directly in the only place where we could have +crossed it a log stuck up, which rendered passage impossible. After a +deal of prodding and hauling, we dislodged it and safely made the ford. + +Doane's Valley is one of those beauty spots which abound in the +mountains of California. Its floor is a beautiful meadow, in which are +innumerable springs. Surrounding this meadow is heavy timber, oaks, +pines and giant cedars. Pauma Creek flows out of this meadow through a +narrow gorge, which nature evidently intended should some day be closed +with a dam to make of the valley a reservoir to conserve the winter +waters. We followed a partially destroyed road through the meadow to its +upper end. Then as high and dry land was within sight we attempted to +cross a small, damp, but uncertain looking waterway. + +Wheels Stuck. + +The front wheels passed safely, but when the rear wheels struck it they +went into the mud until springs and axles rested on the ground. Two full +hours we labored before we left that mud hole. We gathered up timbers +and old bridge material, then jacked up one wheel a little way, and got +something under it to hold it there. The other side was treated the same +way. By repeating the operation many times we got the wheels high enough +to run some timbers crosswise beneath them. We put other timbers in +front and pulled out. + +We soon reached Bailey's Hotel, a summer resort of considerable +popularity. We continued up the grade until we came onto the main road +left by us when we descended into Doane's Valley. We got up many more +pigeons, graceful birds, which the Legislature of our State should +protect before they are exterminated. We moved on through heavily +timber-covered hills, up and down grade, and finally came out on the +south side of the mountain overlooking the canyon, some 5000 feet deep, +at the bottom of which ran the San Luis Rey River. What would have been +a most beautiful scene was marred by a fog which had drifted up the +canyon. But the cloud effect was marvelous. We were above the clouds. A +more perfect sky no human being ever saw. The clouds, or fog banks, were +so heavy that it looked as if we could have walked off into them. I +never saw similar cloud effects anywhere else except from Mt. Lowe, near +Los Angeles, and Mt. Tamalpais, in Marin County. + +Warner's Ranch. + +We now began our descent to Warner's Ranch. It was gradual enough for +some distance, and the road and trees were as charming as any human +being could desire. Finally we came out onto a point overlooking the +ranch. The view was simply entrancing. Imagine a vast amphitheater of +57,000 acres, surrounded by hills, dotted here and there with lakes, +with streams of water like threads of burnished silver glittering in the +evening light, softened by the clouds hanging over the San Luis Rey +River. There were no clouds on the ranch; they stopped abruptly at the +southwest corner. This vast meadow was an emerald green, studded with +brilliant colored flowers. Vast herds of cattle were peacefully +completing their evening meal. The road down to the ranch follows a +ridge, which is so steep that no machine has ever been able to ascend +it. I held my breath and trusted to the good old car that has done so +much for my comfort, safety and amusement. We were all glad when the +bottom was reached. We forded the river and whirled away to Warner's Hot +Springs, over good meadow roads, arriving there before 7 o'clock p. m. + +Some day these springs are going to be appreciated. Now only hardy +travelers, as a rule, go there. Their medicinal qualities will in time +be realized, and the people of Southern California will find that they +have a Carlsbad within a short distance of Los Angeles, in San Diego +County. We slept the sleep of the tired, weary tourist that night. + +Hot Baths. + +The following day we passed in bathing in the hot mineral waters, +sightseeing and driving around the valley. + +Saturday morning at 7:30 o'clock we bade adieu to Mr. and Mrs. Stanford +and left the ranch by way of the Rancho Santa Isabel. The rain god must +have been particularly partial to this beautiful ranch this season. +Nowhere on our trip did we see such a splendid growth of grass and +flowers, such happy looking livestock, such an air of plenty and +prosperity as we did here. Leaving the ranch at the Santa Isabel store, +we took the Julian road, which place we reached after a few hours' +riding over winding roads good to travel on, and through scenery which +was a constant source of enjoyment. Julian is one of the early +settlements of San Diego County. Mining has been carried on there with +varying successes and disappointments these many years. Now apple +raising is its great industry. The hillsides are given over to apple +culture. + +The trees are now laden with blossoms. As we topped a hill or crossed a +divide before beginning an ascent or descent, the view backward of the +apple orchards, peeping up over slight elevations in the clearings, was +extremely beautiful. Leaving Julian, we whirled along over splendid +roads through a rolling country, given over to fruit farming, stock +raising and pasturage. We next reached Cuyamaca and visited the dam of +that name, which impounds the winter rains for the San Diego Flume +Company. The country around the lake showed a deficiency of rainfall. + +The lake was far from full. We took our lunch at the clubhouse near the +dam. After resting in the shade of the friendly oaks we then pursued our +journey to Descanso. We passed through Alpine and finally entered the El +Cajon Valley, famed far and wide for its muscatel grapes, which seem +especially adapted to its dark red soil. The vines were in early leaf, +and not as pleasing to the eye as they will be when in full bloom. Then +came Bostonia, a comparatively new settlement, Rosamond, La Mesa, and +finally we whirled off on a splendid road, through an unsettled country +overgrown with sage and shrubs, to Del Mar. + +The sky was overcast all the afternoon. A stiff ocean breeze blew +inland, cool and refreshing. The entire day had been spent amid scenes +of rare beauty. The wild flowers are not yet out in profusion, but +enough were there to give the traveler an idea of what can be expected in +floral offerings later in the season. It was early Spring wherever the +elevation was 3500 feet or better. The oaks were not yet in leaf, the +sycamores just out in their new spring dresses, the wild pea blossoms +just beginning to open and cast their fragrance to the breezes. + +Far Below. + +Yellow buttercups adorned the warmer spots in each sunny valley. Way +below us in the open country great fields of poppies greeted the +gladdened eye. The freshness of spring was in the air. Each breath we +inhaled was full of new life. The odor of the pines mingled its +fragrance with that of the apple blossoms. + +Del Mar is the Del Monte of Southern California. We arrived at Stratford +Inn, at that place, which is as well furnished and as well kept as any +hotel on the Coast. A small garden, an adjunct of the hotel, shows what +the soil and climate of Del Mar is capable of producing. Tomato vines +are never frosted. The vegetables from the garden have a fresher, +crisper taste than those grown in a drier atmosphere. How good and +comfortable the bed felt to us that night! Sleep came, leaving the body +inert and lifeless in one position for hours at a time. The open air, +the sunshine, the long ride, the ever changing scenery, brought one +joyous slumber, such as a healthy, happy, tired child enjoys. + +The next morning, after an ample, well-cooked and well-served breakfast, +we took the road on the last leg of our journey. Over miles and miles of +new-made roads we sped. Soon the long detour up the San Luis Rey Valley +will be a thing of the past. The new county highway will pursue a much +more direct course. We passed through miles of land being prepared for +bean culture. Miles of hay and grain, miles of pasturage, in which sleek +cattle grazed peacefully, or, having fed their fill, lay upon the rich +grasses and enjoyed life. Near the coast the growth of grain and grass +far surpasses that of the interior. + +Santa Marguerita Rancho, with its boundless expanse of grass-covered +pasturage lands, its thousands of head of cattle and horses, its +thousands of acres of bean lands, ready for seed, is worth going miles +to see. + +At noon we reached San Juan Capistrano. We drove into the grounds of the +hospitable Judge Egan. At a table, beneath the grateful shade of giant +trees, amid the perfume of flowers, the sweet songs of happy birds, we +ate our lunch. After a short rest we took up the run again. We passed El +Toro and finally came onto the great San Joaquin ranch, every acre of +which is now highly cultivated. + +Then came the Santa Ana region, thickly settled, rich in soil and +products. We passed through beautiful and enterprising Santa Ana, +through miles upon miles of walnut, orange and other fruit groves, +through a solid settlement extending far on each side of the road, to +Anaheim. And still on through more walnut and orange groves, more +wealth-producing crops. + +Through the orange and lemon and walnut groves of Fullerton, extending +to and forming a large part of Whittier, I could not help exclaiming to +myself, "What an empire this is! Where is the country that yields the +annual returns per acre that this land does?" At Whittier we got into +one of the newly constructed county highways, and at 3:30 p. m. we were +home again, after four days in the open, four days of pure and +unadulterated happiness. + + + +A Hunting Trip in the Long Ago + +One of the disadvantages of old age, even advancing years, is the +pleasure we lose in anticipating future events. Enthusiastic youth +derives more pleasure in planning a journey, an outing or a social +gathering than can possibly be realized from any human experience. With +what pleasure the young set out, getting ready for a hunting trip, or an +excursion to some remote locality never visited by them! + +From the first day I arrived in Los Angeles, I had heard of the Fort +Tejon and the Rancho La Liebre country as a hunting paradise, extolled +by all people I met, who were given to spending an occasional week or +two in the mountains in search of game. In consequence of what I had +heard of this region, I made up my mind to go there the first time I got +an opportunity. + +Among the first acquaintances I made here was a dear old man named A. C. +Chauvin, formerly of St. Louis, Mo., and of French descent. He had spent +many years in the Northwest, hunting and trapping. He was an excellent +shot with both rifle and shotgun. Notwithstanding the fact that he was +slightly afflicted with a nervous disorder akin to palsy, which kept his +left arm and hand, when not in use, constantly shaking, the moment he +drew up his gun, his nerves were steady, and his aim perfect. He +despised the modern breech-loading rifle, and insisted on shooting an +old-fashioned, muzzle-loading, single-barrel rifle, made by a fellow +townsman, Henry Slaughterbach. It was an exceedingly accurate and +powerful shooting gun. Chauvin was a thorough hunter, well versed in +woodcraft, up in camp equipage and the requirements of men on a two or +three weeks' hunting trip. + +Off in the Dust. + +During the summer of 1876 I had been hard at work. The weather had been +hot and trying. In the latter part of September, Mr. Chauvin proposed +that I go with him on a deer hunt to the Liebre Ranch. I was practicing +law, and after consulting my partners, I eagerly consented to accompany +him. He made all the preparations. On the 30th of September he started a +two-horse wagon, loaded with most of our outfit, on ahead, in charge of +a roustabout. On October 2nd, we followed in a light one-horse wagon, +taking with us our blankets, a few provisions and a shotgun. We had a +hard time pulling over the grade beyond San Fernando, but finally made +it. We went on past Newhall, and camped the first night on the bank of +the Santa Clara River. + +Without the slightest trouble we killed, within a very few minutes, +enough quail for supper and breakfast. After we had finished our evening +meal, quite a shower came up very suddenly. Just enough rain fell to +make things sticky and disagreeable. The clouds vanished and left as +beautiful a starlit sky as any human being ever enjoyed. Our wagon had a +piece of canvas over it, which shed the rain, and left the ground +beneath the wagon dry. Upon this spot we spread our blankets and went to +sleep. Next morning the sun got up, hot, red and ugly looking. We +breakfasted, hitched up and started up San Francisquito Canyon. Chauvin +remarked we were in for a hot day, and he proved a good prophet. There +wasn't a breath of wind stirring as the day progressed. The heat fairly +sizzled. A goodly part of the road was well shaded. We were loath to +leave the shady spots when we came to the open places. To lighten our +load we walked most of the way. We stopped for lunch, fed and rested our +weary animal, and just at dark after a weary afternoon's work we reached +Elizabeth Lake, where we overtook the other wagon. We had been two full +days on the road. I have made the same trip in an automobile two summers +in succession, in less than four hours. + +In Antelope Country. + +On leaving Elizabeth Lake next morning we transferred everything of any +weight from our wagon to the larger one, which made the going much +easier for our animal. We descended the hill beyond the lake, went up +the valley a few miles, and then cut straight across to a point near +where Fairmont is now situated. Chauvin said he wanted to get an +antelope before going after the deer. We crossed the valley into some +low, rolling hills and camped on a small stream called Rock Creek. +Chauvin said this was a great place for antelope. The horses were +picketed out on a grassy cienega, which offered them pretty good feed. +We got our supper, made camp and went to bed. + +During the night a wind began to blow from the northwest, and in a few +hours it had become a hurricane. Small stones were carried by it like +grains of sand. They would pelt us on the head as we lay in our +blankets. We could hear the stones clicking against the spokes of the +wagon wheels. Great clouds, of dust would obscure the sky. By morning +the velocity of the wind was terrific. Our horses, driven frantic, had +broken loose and disappeared. We could not make a fire, nor if we had +had one could we have cooked anything, for the dirt that filled the air. +For breakfast we ate such things as we had prepared. The roustabout +started off trailing the horses. Chauvin and I sat around under a bank, +blue and disconsolate. + +About 11 o'clock we saw a great band of antelope going to water. They +were coming up against the wind, straight to us. When fully half a mile +away they scented us and started off in a circle to strike the creek +above us. We put off after them, following up the creek bed. They beat +us to it, watered and started back to their feeding ground, passing us +in easy range. We shot at them, but without effect. The wind blew so +hard that accurate shooting was an impossibility. We went back to camp. +Not far from it we found quite a hole under the bank, which the winter +waters had burrowed out. It afforded shelter enough from the wind, which +was still blowing, to allow us to build a fire of dry sage brush. We +then prepared a good, warm meal, which we at with great relish. By +1 o'clock in the afternoon the wind began to abate, and it died away +almost as suddenly as it came up. It left the atmosphere dry and full of +dust. + +Great Sight. + +We heard nothing from the man who had gone after the horses. About 3 +o'clock Chauvin said he was going to get an antelope or know why. He +argued that they would be coming to water soon. He told me to remain +near the camp. He went up the stream, intending to get above the point +at which the animals usually watered. He had been gone about an hour, +when I saw the dust rise toward the east--such a dust as a drove of +sheep in motion makes. Pretty soon the advance guard of the largest band +of antelope I ever saw, or ever hope to see again, appeared in sight. As +they scented our camp, what a sight they made! There they stood, out of +range, looking to the point where their keen noses notified them that +danger lurked. Then they would wheel and run, stop and look again. The +white spots on their rumps shone in the sunlight like burnished silver. + +They would stop, look awhile and again wheel and run. Suspicious and +anxious they stood, heads up and nostrils dilated, sides heaving. They +made a beautiful picture of excited and alarmed curiosity. Several times +they advanced, and then fell back. Finally they whirled away and headed +up stream. In a few minutes I heard the report of Chauvin's rifle, +followed a little later by another shot. Then the whole band appeared in +wild disorder, running as only frightened antelopes can run, in the +direction from which they came. Shortly afterwards I saw Chauvin on a +little knoll. I waved my arms. He saw me, took off his hat and beckoned +for me to join him. Off I put, as fast as my legs could carry me. When I +got to him, I found he had killed two antelope bucks. They lay within +400 yards of each other. He had already cut their throats. Maybe you +think we were not happy! We drew the animals. Chauvin was an old man, +compactly built, but very strong. He helped me shoulder the smaller of +the bucks, and then he, with the greatest ease, picked up the other one, +and we trudged to camp. We hung our game up on a couple of stunted +stumps and skinned them. Then we prepared supper. We cooked potatoes and +rice, made coffee, and cornbread, and fried the antelope livers with +bacon. Just as our meal was ready, our roustabout came into camp, riding +one of the horses barebacked, with only a halter and leading the other +two. He had had his hat blown away and was bareheaded. He was nearly +frozen, having started off in the morning without his coat. + +Horses Recovered. + +He trailed the horses, which were traveling before the wind, for twelve +miles. Fortunately at a point on the south side of the valley, they +entered a ravine, in which there was plenty of bunch grass. Here, +sheltered from the wind, they fed up the ravine a mile or so, where he +found them lying down in a sheltered spot near a water hole. He had had +nothing to eat since leaving us. Coming back he faced the wind until it +died away. Riding a horse bareback, with a halter for a bridle, and +leading two other horses, you can well imagine was no picnic. We tied +the animals to some willow stumps, so there was no danger of their +getting loose, and gave them a feed of barley. By this time the +roustabout was thawed out by our fire, and we had supper. + +As we had all the antelope we wanted, we made our plans for the next +day. Chauvin knew the country thoroughly. He proposed that the next +morning we go to where the horses had been found, and proceed up that +canyon onto the Liebre ranch to a camping spot he knew of. He was +certain we would find deer there. At peace with the world, we went to +bed that night well fed and contented. Next morning we had antelope +steak, right out of the loin, for breakfast. I never tasted better meat +but once, and that was a moose steak served us one morning at the Hotel +Frontenac in Quebec a few years ago. + +We broke camp early. About noon time we had crossed the valley and +gained our new camp, which was an ideal one. There was a spring of hot +and a spring of cold iron and sulphur water within ten feet of each +other, each near a stream of cold, clear mountain water. The first thing +we did was to take a bath in the hot sulphur water. There was quite a +hole in which it boiled up. It was almost too hot for comfort, but how +cleansing it was! It took all of the sand out of our hair and beard and +eyes, and left the skin as soft as satin. After our hot bath, we cooled +off in the stream and got into our clothes. Refreshed and encouraged, we +were extremely happy. + +Deer Plentiful. + +Deer tracks were very plentiful. We fixed up our camp, cut up our +antelope, put a lot of it out to dry or "jerk," as the common expression +is, and then about an hour before sunset, Chauvin and I set out to look +the country over. There was plenty of timber, pinons and other pines, +and oaks, scrub and large, all full of acorns, upon which the deer were +feeding. Returning from camp, not 100 yards from it, we jumped two +bucks. We killed both of them, each getting one. Just about then, we +began to think things were coming our way. We drew the deer, and in +hanging them upon a small oak tree, I pressed a yellow-jacket with the +middle finger of my right hand. Before I got the stinger out, my upper +lip swelled up to enormous proportions, and both my eyes were swollen +shut. Chauvin looked at me with open-eyed and open-mouthed astonishment. +In a characteristic tone, native to him, he remarked, "If I hadn't seen +it, I couldn't believe it," He had to lead me to camp. + +I have been very susceptible to bee stings all my life. Several years +before this a bumble bee had stung me on my upper lip, and my whole face +was swollen out of shape for many days. I suppose that fact had +something to do with the peculiar action of this sting. At any rate, I +was in great misery, and lay in camp with my eyes swollen shut for three +days before the swelling began to abate. I drank great quantities of the +sulphur water, and bathed my face in it continuously. + +The morning after the yellow-jacket incident, Chauvin and the +roustabout, the latter taking my gun, left me in bed and went out after +deer. They left without breakfast, about daylight. Shortly afterwards, +two of the horses broke loose and ran through camp terror stricken. The +third horse strained at his stake rope, but did not break it. He snorted +and stamped at a great rate. The loose horses did not leave camp, but +kept up a constant running and snorting for some time. When Chauvin came +back, he found that a bear had come down from the mountains near by, +torn down and partially devoured one of the deer we had killed the night +before, not one hundred yards from where I lay in bed. + +Don Elogio de Celis, a well known citizen of Los Angeles, was camped in +a canyon about a mile west of us. That afternoon he killed a grizzly +bear of pretty good proportions, and we all supposed that he was the +marauder who had visited our camp that morning. + +While I was laid up Chauvin got two more bucks, several tree squirrels +and some mountain quail. We made plenty of jerky, while living off the +fat of the land. + +About four or five days after I was stung, the swelling went down +sufficiently for me to see again, but I had lost my appetite for further +hunting, especially as Chauvin had had several long tramps without any +luck. We stayed in camp a couple of days longer, then, as signs of a +rainstorm were prevalent, we packed up and left camp very early one +morning, and the first day got back to Newhall. The next morning, when +we reached San Fernando, as I was not feeling any too well, I took the +train for Los Angeles, so as to avoid the hot, dusty ride in by wagon. + +For many months Chauvin repeated to our friends the extraordinary +circumstances of my lip and eyes swelling up from a yellow jacket's +sting on the finger. He had hunted and trapped all his life, but could +not get over that one incident. + +What we had expected to be a pleasant outing proved to be rather a hard +experience, but we were too old at the game not to have enjoyed it, and +do you realize that after we got rested up, we felt better for our +experience? Life in the open, the change of air, the excitement of +hunting, all united in sweeping the cobwebs from our brains and left us +better prepared for the battle of life than we were before we started. + + + +Professor "Lo," Philosopher + +My Interview with an Educated Indian in the Wilds of Oregon: + +In the summer of 1902 I was camping, in company with the late Judge +Sterry of Los Angeles, on Spring Creek in the Klamath Indian Reservation +in Southeast Oregon. Spring Creek rises out, of lava rocks and flows in +a southeasterly direction, carrying over 200,000 inches of the clearest, +coldest water I ever saw. In fact, its waters are so clear that the best +anglers can only catch trout, with which the stream abounds, in riffles, +that is where the stream runs over rocks of such size as to keep the +surface in constant commotion, thus obscuring the vision of the fish. + +Two miles, or thereabouts, from its source, Spring Creek empties into +the Williamson River. The Williamson rises miles away in a tule swamp, +and its waters are as black as black coffee. Where the two streams come +together, the dark waters of the Williamson stay on the left hand side +of the stream, going down, and the clear waters of Spring Creek on the +right hand side, for half a mile or more. Here some rapids, formed by a +swift declivity of the stream, over sunken boulders, cause a mixup of +the light and dark waters, and from there on they flow intermingled and +indistinguishable. + +Nine miles down stream, the Sprague River comes in from the left. It is +as large as the Williamson, and its waters are the color of milk, or +nearly so. The stream flows for miles over chalk beds and through chalk +cliffs, which gives its waters their weird coloring. The union of the +waters of the Williamson and the Sprague Rivers results in the dirty, +gray coloring of the waters of Klamath Lake, into which they empty, and +of the Klamath River, which discharges the lake into the Pacific Ocean. + +Killican. + +The place where the Williamson is joined by the Sprague is known as the +"Killican." The stream here flows over a lava bottom and is quite wide, +in places very deep and in places quite shallow. There seemed to be +quite an area of this shallow water. The shallow places suddenly dropped +off into pools of great depth, and it was something of a stunt to wander +around on the shallow bed rock and cast off into the pools below. I +tried it and found the lava as smooth and slippery as polished glass. + +After sitting down a couple of times in water two feet deep, I concluded +to stay on shore and cast out into the pool. Following this exhilarating +exercise with indifferent success, I noticed approaching a little, old +Indian. He was bareheaded and barefooted. His shirt was open, exposing +his throat and breast. His eyes were deep set, his hair and beard a +grizzly gray. He had a willow fishing pole in one hand and a short bush +with green leaves on it, with which he was whacking grasshoppers, in the +other. He circled around on the bank near me, now and again catching a +hopper. I noticed that he ate about two out of every five that he +caught. The others he kept for bait. + +Finally he approached the stream. He paid no attention whatever to me. +He selected a spot almost under me, squatted down upon a flat rock, put +two grasshoppers on his hook, threw it into the stream, and in a very +short time drew out a good six-pound trout. Filled with admiration for +the feat, while he was tying a string through the fish's gills I said to +him, "Muy mahe," which another Indian had told me meant "big trout." +Without looking up or turning his head, he said to me in perfect +English, "What sort of lingo are you giving me, young man? The true +pronunciation of those words is," and then he repeated "Muy mahe," with +just a little twist to his words that I had not given them. Resuming the +conversation he remarked, "Why not speak English? When both parties +understand it, it is much more comfortable. I intended to catch but one +fish, but as you have admired this one, allow me to present it to you +with my compliments." He had turned around now, and held out the +struggling trout, a pleasant smile upon his worn features. + +Embarrassed beyond measure, I apologized for attempting to talk to him +in his own language, and accepted the trout. He baited his hook, cast it +into the stream, and in a short time landed a still larger trout. +Without removing it from the hook, he came up the bank to where I was +seated. He laid his fish and rod on the grass, wiped his forehead with +his hand and sat down. + +"I never catch more fish, or kill more game than I need for my present +wants," he remarked. "That trout will be ample for my wife and myself +for supper and breakfast, and in fact for all day tomorrow. When he is +gone, I will catch another one." + +Then, turning to me, he asked, "From what section of civilization do you +hail?" I told him I was from Los Angeles. + +"Ah, Los Angeles," he murmured. "The Queen City of the West and Angel +City of the South. I have read much of your beautiful city, and I have +often thought I would like to visit it and confirm with my own eyes all +I read about it. What a paradise that country must have been for the +Indian before you white men came! I can hardly imagine a land of +perpetual sunshine, a land where the flowers bloom constantly, where +snows never fall. Yes, I would like to go there, but I imagine I never +shall." Then, with an inquiring glance, "What may be your calling?" he +asked. + +I told him I was an attorney-at-law. + +"A noble profession," he remarked. "Next to medicine I regard it as the +noblest profession known to our limited capabilities. Do you ever +think," he asked me, "that the medical profession is devoted to +relieving physical ills? To warding off death? The law, on the other +hand, takes care of your property rights. It is supposed to be the +guardian of the weak. How often, however, do we see its mission +perverted, and how often it becomes an oppressor of the unfortunate. How +many times do we see it aiding in the accumulation of those large +fortunes with which our modern civilization is fast becoming burdened +and brutalized." + +While I had never contracted the filthy habit of smoking, I had in my +pocket several good cigars. I extended the case to my newfound friend. +He took one, thanked me, bit off the end, lit it and puffed away with +evident enjoyment. I took the liberty of asking him his business. "I am +a professor of belles lettres and philosophy in the Indian College on +the Klamath reservation. I am here on my vacation. I was born and reared +to early manhood in these mountains. They still have a charm for me. +While I love my books and my labors, there is a freedom in my life here +which appeals to me. Here I go back to natural life, and study again the +book of nature. Each day I take a lesson from the wild animals of the +forest, from the surging streams and twittering birds. Here I can better +realize how small is man in the general plan of creation." + +He hesitated, and I took advantage of his silence and asked him about +the religion of his race. Whether the modern red man adhered to the +teachings of his tribe, or leaned toward the white man's God. Replying, +he delivered to me a discourse of considerable length, which, as near as +I can recollect it now, ran as follows: + +A Red Agnostic. + +"My people have been too busy these many years filling their stomachs to +pay much attention to saving their souls. We teach a religion that +inculcates good behavior, and promises as a reward for a well-spent life +an eternity of bliss in the happy hunting ground. Our future is depicted +by our priests as a materialistic future, where we follow the chase, +defeat our enemies and enjoy to our full those things which render us +happy in this world. Personally, I have long since discarded the +teachings of my people, and I am in a state of doubt which seriously +perplexes me. I have read much and widely on this subject. I find that +you white men have not one religion, but many. You are divided into +sects, torn by factions. From the teachings of history I would think +that the multitude of denominations you support was your greatest +safeguard. You know from times past, when a religion becomes too +powerful it becomes also intolerant, and persecutions follow. I am loath +to accept the Christian theory of the origin of man or his probable +destiny. Science teaches us that the human being has existed for +millions of years longer than the churches admit we have existed. The +idolatry practiced by the Catholic church repulses me, and yet its +stability has strongly appealed to me. You will remember what Macaulay, +in reviewing Ranke's History of the Popes, said of this church. After +reviewing its history, its defeats and its triumphs, he added: 'And she +may still exist in undiminished vigor when some traveler from New +Zealand shall in the midst of a vast solitude take his stand on a broken +arch of London Bridge to sketch the ruins of St. Paul.' And yet, neither +the age of the church nor its stability is conclusive to my mind of its +divine origin. I am rather convinced from these facts that it has been +governed by a skillful set of men, who were able politicians and +financiers, as well as religious enthusiasts. Certainly no protestant +church can lay claim to divine origin. We know too well that the +Episcopal church was founded by an English King, because the Pope of +Rome refused him a divorce. Luther quarreled with his church and broke +away from its restraints. Wesley founded the Methodist church, Calvin +the Presbyterian church. The more I study the religious history of the +world, the more I am convinced that religion is founded on fear. The +immortal bard, from whom nothing seems to have been hidden, lays down +the foundation of all religion in those words from 'Hamlet,' where he +makes the melancholy Dane exclaim: + +"To die:--to sleep,--To sleep! perchance to dream:--ay, there's the +rub; For in that sleep of death what dreams may come, When we have, +shuffled off this mortal coil, Must give us pause." + +"Do you realize that Ingersoll, by his teachings and his denunciations +of what he termed the 'absurdities of orthodox religious beliefs,' has +done more toward shaking faith in many church doctrines than any man of +this age'? And, after all, is not his doctrine a sane one? He says, in +effect: 'I can not believe these things. My reason revolts at them. They +are repugnant to my intellect. I can not believe that a just God will +punish one of His creatures for an honest opinion.' He denies that there +is such a God as the churches hold out to us. He denies that the world +was created in six days; that man was created in the manner described in +the Bible, and that woman was created from man's rib. He denies that +miracles were ever performed, or that there was any evidence, reliable +or authoritative, that they were ever performed. And yet he does not +deny the existence of a future life. His doctrine on this point is, 'I +know only the history of the past and the happenings of the present. I +do not know, nor does any man know, anything of the future. Let us hope +there is a life beyond the grave.' + +"The old poet, Omar, argues against a future life. You will recall these +lines: + +"'Strange, is it not, that of the multitudes who +Before us pass'd the door of Darkness through, +Not one returns to tell us of the Road, +Which to discover we must travel, too.'" + +"The churches tell us we must have faith to be saved, but the great +minds of the present age are not satisfied, any more than many of the +great minds of the past were satisfied, to admit as a matter of faith +the whole foundation of the Christian religion." + +"People want to be shown. They are not willing to rely upon poorly +authenticated stories of what occurred several thousand years ago. The +question presents itself to us: Is the world better, for its present +beliefs than it formerly was, when religion was a matter of statute +People may not be as religious as they once were, but they are certainly +more humane. Women are no longer slaves, chattels, with unfeeling +husbands. Slavery itself no longer exists in any civilized nation. +Polygamy is not practiced to the extent that it was in Biblical days. +The world progressed as fear ceased to rule the human mind." + +"But, pardon me," he added with infinite grace and a charming wave of. +his hand, "you see your question has aroused in me the failing of the +pedagogue. I have said more than I had intended." + +"How do your people," I asked, "look upon the material progress of the +age?" "They are astounded," he answered. "Since the Modoc War many of my +people have prospered. You have seen their farms, their houses, and +noted their occupations. They are rich in lands and stock, and even in +money. They have many comforts and even many luxuries in their homes. +Some of them have traveled extensively, and they come back filled with +awe and admiration with what the white man has done and is doing. I read +the modern press, and many scientific works, and I am satisfied that +man will fly in a few years more. Already the automobile is displacing +the domestic animals. The telephone was a great triumph of science, next +in importance to steam locomotion. But, are your people as happy with +your modern methods, your crowded cities, your strenuous existence, as +your forefathers were, who led the simple life? And where is this mad +scramble, not for wealth alone, not for power but for mere existence, +nothing more, that the human race is engaged in, going to end? Can you +tell me? Take America, one of the newest civilized lands of the earth, +how long will it be before her coal measures are exhausted? Her iron +ores exhausted? Her forests will soon be a thing of the past. Already +you hear complaints that her fertile lands are not yielding as they once +did, and your population is constantly increasing. With coal gone, with +iron gone, with the land poverty stricken to a point where profitable +production of cereals can no longer be had, what is to become of your +teeming millions?" + +The Awakening. + +I assured him I could not answer these questions. That I had asked +myself the same things a thousand times, and no answer came to me. I +handed the professor another cigar. He lit it. Just then an old Indian +woman clad in a calico wrapper, but bareheaded and barefooted, came down +the road towards us. She stopped some fifty feet away, and in a shy, low +voice, but in good English, she called him. "Papa, did you catch me a +fish for dinner?" The professor turned his head, and seeing her, said to +me, "Ah, here is my guardian angel, my wife," and then to her, holding +up his trout, he said, "Yes, I have it. I am coming now." + +He arose, held out a dirty hand for me to shake, and in parting, said, +"My dear sir, you can not imagine how much I have enjoyed our chance +meeting, resulting from your poor pronunciation of two Indian words. +When you return to your civilized surroundings, ask yourself, 'Are any +of this mad throng as happy as the Indian I met at the Killican'." + +He joined his wife, and the aged pair passed into a brush hut beneath +some stately pines. I, too, turned toward the wagon which was to carry +me back to camp, meditating long and deeply on the remarks of this +strolling compound of savagery and education. Environment is largely +responsible for man's condition. Here was a man who had acquired +considerable knowledge of the world and books, he was still a savage in +his manner of life and in his habits. + +His manner of talking was forceful and natural, and his command of +language remarkable. The ease and abandon with which he wielded the +arguments of those who rail against the existence of a Divine Being +would lead one, listening to him, to imagine himself in the lecture-room +of some modern university. + + + +A Great Day's Sport on Warner's Ranch. + +Think of three days in the open! Three glorious days in the sunshine! +"Far from the madding crowd!" Far from the rush and stir and whirl and +hum of business! Far from the McNamara horror, and its sickening +aftermath of jury bribing! + +A short time ago, whirling over good roads and bad roads, through orange +groves with their loads of fruit, rapidly assuming golden hues; through +miles and miles of vineyards, now 'reft of all leaves, vineyards in +which the pruners were already busily at work; past acres and acres of +ground being prepared for grain; through wooded canyons and +pine-screened vales; ascending from almost sea level to upwards of 3000 +feet--a party of us went to Warner's Ranch after the famous canvasback +ducks. + +We left my home at 7:30 o'clock a. m., some of us in my machine, and two +of the party in a runabout. Filled with the ambition of youth, the +driver of the latter car reached Mr. William Newport's place in the +Perris Valley, a run of seventy-six miles, in two hours and twenty +minutes. We jogged along, reaching Newport's in three hours, and found +the exultant, speed-crazed fiend waiting for us. He was loud in the +praise of his speedy run. Of all of this take note a little later in the +story. + +We lunched with Mr. Newport, and then took him with us. What a day it +was! A radiant, dry, winter day! The whole earth was flooded with +sunshine. Not a cloud was in the sky. The air was full of snap and +electric energy. The atmosphere absolutely clear. We wound in and out of +the canyons, over dry and running streams, always ascending, climbing +the eastern shoulder of Mt. Palomar, not to the top, but to a pass by +which the ranch is reached. + +Before 4 o'clock we were on Warner's Ranch. This property could well be +described as the "Pamir" of Southern California. True, its elevation is +but slight compared with the 16,000 feet of that great Asiatic country, +bearing the name of "Pamir," where roams in all his freedom the true +"Ovis Poli" or "Big Horn." + +The ranch comprises about 57,000 acres of land, and is the largest body +of comparatively level land at even an elevation of 3500 feet in +Southern California. It is an immense circular valley, rock ribbed and +mountain bound. Out of it, through a narrow gorge to the southwest, +flows the San Luis Rey River. The ranch is well watered. Much of it +during the winter season is semi-bog or swamp land, and at all times +affords wonderful grazing for stock. There are circling hills and level +mesas and broad valleys here and there. Nestled between the hills are a +number of mountain lakes, fed by innumerable springs around their edges. +These lakes furnish food for the canvasback duck in the various grasses +and other growths, of which they are extremely fond. + +First Bag. + +Contrary to good judgment, we drove to one of these lakes, and had half +an hour's shooting that evening. We got about twenty birds. We proceeded +to the hotel, and after drawing our birds, hung them up where they would +freeze that night and not be in the sun while we were shooting next day. + +A cold north wind was blowing, which whistled mournfully through the +cottonwoods, and suggested a night where plenty of blankets would be +more than acceptable. + +The hotel is situated at the Warner's Hot Springs, celebrated throughout +all of Southern California for their wonderful curative properties. The +proprietor, Mr. Stanford, and his good wife, made us comfortable, and +were as accommodating as we have always found them. After a good supper +we proceeded to our rooms and got ready for the next day's slaughter. +Well into the night the wind whistled and blew. It finally went down. +Then the temperature began to fall. The thermometer went to 29 degrees +before morning. Wherever there was a thin surface of water, there was +ice. + +We did not get out very early. It is not necessary at Warner's. The +ducks fly from lake to lake when disturbed. If too heavily bombarded +they leave the valley. We breakfasted about 7 o'clock. Taking our guns +and ammunition, we started out over the frosty roads for the lakes. As +we reached the lower ground the frost was heavier. I found the surface +of one small lake solidly frozen. At the larger lakes there was just a +little ice on the edges. We distributed our men to the various lakes, +and the shooting began. + +Say, neighbor, did you ever hunt those big mountain canvasback? If you +have, you know the story. If you have not, I am afraid I can not give +you a correct impression of it. Sitting in a frozen blind, all at once +you hear the whirring of wings, far off in the sky. Before you can +locate the source of it, "Swish!" an old Can goes by. You look at the +streak of light he leaves in the atmosphere. Then you hear another +far-off alarm. You seize your gun as the gray mark passes overhead at +about 125 miles an hour. You shoot at it and realize that you have shot +just fifty feet behind it. Another one comes by. Bang! again goes the +gun. You have done a little better this time, but you are yet not less +than thirty feet in the rear. Again you try it. Just a few feathers fly. +You are alarmed now, and there comes to you the admonition of an old +duck hunter, who laid down the following three rules for duck shooting, +viz: + +"First, lead them considerably. + +"Second, lead them a little more than last time. + +"Third, still lead them further yet." + +The next time you get your bird, a great big, magnificent Can. Kerplunk! +he falls into the water, or with a dull thud, he strikes the ground with +force enough to kill a horse if hit squarely by it. What a bird he was! +How beautifully marked! How bright his wing! How deep his breast, +compared with any other duck in the land! How magnificent the dark +brown, velvet coloring of his head! How soft and satiny the white +streaked back! + +All over the valley the guns were booming. Out of the sky, a mile away, +you would see ducks flying rapidly, suddenly crumple up and plunge to +the earth or water. + +Ducks Go Skating. + +In a lull in the shooting I left my blind and went a quarter of a mile +away to the little lake mentioned before as frozen over. I crept up to +the top of a hill and looked down upon it. Although the sun was high in +the sky, the lake was still frozen. It was surrounded by ducks. I don't +want to say that they were skating on the ice. I saw one old canvasback +drake, however, peck at another duck. The latter squawked and waddled +out of the way, going where the water should have been. When he struck +the ice, he slid for quite a little distance, balancing with his wings +in a most ludicrous fashion. While cautiously watching them, I saw this +performance repeated several times. + +There was no hope of my approaching them within shooting distance, so I +stood up to arouse the ducks, hoping to send them to my companions. They +filled the air with a great clatter of wings, and circled off to various +portions of the valley. I heard a great bombardment as they crossed the +other lakes, and I knew that someone had taken toll from them. + +It was a beautiful day, with cloudless sky. The sun's warm summer like +rays were in marked contrast to the icy breath of winter, encountered at +sunrise. What a grand sunrise it was! From behind the mountains of the +East, up out of the depths of the Salton Sea, Old Sol first illuminated +the sky, the mountain tops and wooded ridges to the southwest and north, +and then with a rich show of crimson coloring, he suddenly vaulted into +the sky, touching with his golden wand each frosted leaf and frozen bush +and tree, and hill and vale and mountain top. + +Fine Luck. + +We shot with varying success during the morning hours. + +Many of the ducks, especially the larger ones, circled high in the air +like miniature aeroplanes, almost beyond human vision. How they sped on +frightened wings, gradually going higher and higher, and finally darting +off over the eastern rim of the valley in the direction of Salton Sea. +Just before noon time my companion at one of the lakes, and myself, +gathered up our ducks and hung them high in a tree at the water's edge. +We then went to another lake by which the autos stood, where we had +agreed to muster for lunch. The entire party were in high spirits, and +pronounced the sport the best they had ever had. + +After lunch two of the party in the runabout drove out of the valley to +some place familiar to them. They returned later with the limit of +jacksnipe--big, fat, thick-breasted, meaty looking birds. + +My companion and myself returned to our blinds. The duck flight during +the fore part of the afternoon was exceedingly light. I managed to land, +among others, a beautiful canvasback drake. Shortly afterwards I stopped +as fine a Mallard drake as I ever saw. This was the only Mallard killed +on the trip. + +In the gathering shadows of the coming night we drove back to the +Springs. Seven guns had killed 118 ducks, fifty of them canvasback. +There was a fine sprinkling of sprig, redhead, widgeon, plenty of teal, +bluebills and some spoonbills, all fine, fat birds. Then there were the +jacksnipe. + +Tired and happy we dined. Until retiring time, we lived again the sport +of the day. When we sought our beds, sleep came quickly, and I do not +think any of us turned over until it was time to get up. We had packed +our belongings, taken on gasoline and breakfasted, and started homeward +a little after 7 o'clock. + +We visited another section of the country known to one of our party, and +fell in with some mountain pigeons, and in a couple of hours managed to +kill sixty-eight of them. Talk about shooting! Oh, Mama! How those +pigeons could fly! And pack away lead! No bird I ever saw could equal +them in that particular. + +Even at close range, a well-centered bird would, when hard hit, pull +himself together as his feathers flew in the breeze, and sail away out +into some mountain side, quite out of reach of the hunter, undoubtedly +to die and furnish food for the buzzards or coyotes. We had to take +awful chances as to distance in order to kill any of them. + +While looking for a dead pigeon that fell off towards the bottom of a +wooded bluff in some thick bunches of chapparal, I heard the quick boof! +boof! of the hoofs of a bounding deer. I did not see that animal. An +instant later, in rounding a heavy growth of bushes, I saw a magnificent +buck grazing on the tender growth. He stood just the fraction of a +second with the young twig of the bush in his mouth, looking at me with +his great luminous eyes, and then he made a jump or two out of sight. +Strange that these two animals had not fled at the sound of our guns. + +A game warden hailed us and insisted on seeing all our hunting licenses +and on counting our ducks. This privilege, under the law, we could have +denied him, but we were a little proud of the birds we had, and as we +were well within the number we could have killed, we made no objection +to his doing so. + +As a result of its speedy run the day before, the runabout had for some +little time been running on a rim. We left its occupants, who disdained +our help, putting on a new tire. After a beautiful run we again reached +the Newport place, where we lunched. The car did not appear. We hated to +go away and leave them, as we thought they might be in difficulty. We +telephoned to Temecula and found they had passed that point. About two +hours after our arrival they came whirling in. They had had more tire +trouble. They took a hasty lunch, and we all started together. + +We made the home run without incident. Spread out in one body our game +made a most imposing appearance. Besides the 118 ducks there were 50 +jacksnipe and 68 fine large wild pigeons. + +Such days make us regret that we are growing old. They rejuvenate us +--make us boys again. + + + +Boyhood Days in Early California + +My boyhood days, from the time I was five until I was fifteen years of +age, were spent on a ranch in Yuba County, California. We were located +on the east side of Feather River, about five miles above Marysville. +The ranch consisted of several hundred acres of high land, which, at its +western terminus, fell away about one hundred feet to the river bottom. +There were a couple of hundred acres of this river bottom land which was +arable. It was exceedingly rich and productive. Still west of this land +was a well-wooded pasture, separated from the cultivated lands by a good +board fence. The river bounded this pasture on the north and west. + +In the pasture were swales of damp land, literally overgrown with wild +blackberry bushes. They bore prolific crops of long, black, juicy +berries, far superior to the tame berries, and they were almost entirely +free from seeds. Many a time have I temporarily bankrupted my stomach on +hot blackberry roll, with good, rich sauce. + +The country fairly teemed with game. Quail and rabbit were with us all +the time. Doves came by the thousands in the early summer and departed +in the fall. In winter the wild ducks and geese were more than abundant. +In the spring wild pigeons visited us in great numbers. There was one +old oak tree which was a favorite resting-place with them. Sheltered by +some live oak bushes, I was always enabled to sneak up and kill many of +them out of this tree. + +I began to wander with the gun when I was but a little over eight years +old. The gun was a long, double-barrel, muzzle-loading derelict. Wads +were not a commercial commodity in those days. I would put in some +powder, guessing at the amount, then a wad of newspaper, and thoroughly +ram it home, upon top of this the shot, quantity also guessed at, and +more paper. But it was barely shoved to the shot, never rammed. Sad +experience taught me that ramming the shot added to the kicking +qualities of the firearm. How that old gun could kick! Many times it +bowled me over. St. George Littledale, a noted English sportsman, in +describing a peculiarly heavy express rifle, said, "It was absolutely +without recoil. Every time I discharged it, it simply pushed me over." +That described my gun exactly, except that it had "the recoil." I deemed +myself especially fortunate if I could get up against a fence post or an +oak tree when I shot at something. By this means I retained an upright +position. Armed with this gun, an antiquated powder flask, a shot pouch +whose measurer was missing, and a dilapidated game bag, I spent hours in +the woods and fields, shooting such game as I needed, learning to love +life in the open, the trees, the flowers, the birds and the wild animals +I met. I was as proud of my outfit as the modern hunter is of his $500 +gun and expensive accompaniments. When I went after the cows, I carried +my gun, and often got a dozen or more quail at a pot shot out of some +friendly covey. If I went to plow corn, or work in the vegetable garden, +the gun accompanied me, and it was sure to do deadly execution every +day. + +When it was too wet to plow, no matter how hard it was raining, it was +just right to hunt. Clad in a gum coat, I would take my gun and brave +the elements, when a seat by the fireside would have been much more +comfortable. I loved to be out in a storm, to watch the rain, to hear +the wind toss and tear the branches of the trees, to hear at first hand +the fury of the storm, and watch the birds hovering in the underbrush, +and the wild waterfowl seek the protection of the willows. In such a +storm great flocks of geese would scurry across the country within a few +feet of the ground. They usually went in the teeth of the gale. At such +times they constantly uttered shrill cries and appeared utterly +demoralized. + +If there were game laws in those days, I never knew it. It was always +open season with me. Often my mother would tell me to shoot something +besides quail, that she was tired of them. + +There was a slough on the place which was full of beaver and beaver +dams. How I tried to get one of them, always without success! They were +very crafty, very alert, and at the slightest indication of danger dived +under water to the doors of their houses, long before one was in gunshot +of them. Full many a weary hour have I spent, hidden in the brush, +watching a nearby beaver dam in the hope of getting a shot, but always +without avail. They would appear at other dams, too far away, but never +show themselves close enough to be injured. + +In the winter the slough fairly swarmed with ducks of every variety. +They were disturbed but little, and they used these waters as a resting +place, flying far out into the grain fields and into the open plain at +night for their food. The beautiful wood duck, now almost extinct in +California, was very plentiful. They went in flocks as widgeon do. They +would go into the tops of the oak trees and feed upon the acorns. I +killed many of them as they came out of these trees. In flying they had +a way of massing together like blackbirds, and one shot often brought +down a goodly bag of them. + +The slough I mentioned above was not a stagnant one. It was fed by water +from Feather River. After winding around an island, it emptied its +waters back into the river farther down stream, so that fresh water was +continually entering and flowing from it. Along its banks grew a fringe +of tall cottonwood trees. Many of them were completely enveloped with +wild grapevines, which bore abundantly. The slough was full of two or +three varieties of perch, or, as we called them, sun-fish; also a white +fish called chub. These fish were all very palatable, and I caught loads +of them. In the fall, when the wild grapes were ripe, they would fall off +into the water and were fed upon by the fish. Beneath the vine-clad +cottonwoods the fishing was always good. + +One afternoon I was following a path just outside of the pasture fence, +through heavy wheat stubble, left after cutting time. I saw a pair of +pink ears ahead of me, which I knew belonged to a rabbit. I blazed away +at the ears. The gun, as usual, did execution at both ends. I went over +on my back. When I regained my feet I saw a great commotion on the +firing line. Rabbits' legs and feathers were alternately in the air. +Investigating, I found two cottontail, one jackrabbit and three quail in +the last stages of dissolution, all the result of one shot at two +rabbit's ears. I felt bigger than Napoleon ever did as I gathered up my +kill and started for home. + +On one of my wanderings I came across; the barrel of a rifle on an +Indian mound, which had been plowed up when we were preparing the land +for planting. It was so coated with rust that the metal was no longer +visible. Floods had covered the ground many times. Not knowing how long +it had been buried there, I dug the rust and dirt out of the barrel as +best I could and took it home. On my first trip to Marysville I took it +to a blacksmith named Allison, who did all of our work, and asked him to +cut it off about a foot from the breech end, so that I could use it as a +cannon. He put it in his forge, and pulled away upon his bellows with +his left hand. He held the muzzle end of the rifle barrel in his right +hand, and poked at the coals with it so as to get it properly covered. +He intended to heat it and then cut it off. All at once, Bang! and that +horrid old thing went off. The bullet went through Allison's clothing +and slightly cut the skin on his side. He was the worst scared man in +all California. When he felt the sting of the bullet he threw up his +hands and fell on his back, yelling lustily. I was almost as badly +panic-stricken, thinking surely he was killed. I began to see visions of +the gallows and the hangman's rope. He recovered his self-possession, +and when he found he was not hurt, his fear turned to anger. He threw +the rifle barrel out into the street, and then drove me out of the shop. +When I got outside and my fear had left me, I sat down on an old wagon +tongue and laughed until I was entirely out of breath. Allison came out, +and my laughter must have been contagious. He leaned up against a post +and laughed until he cried. His anger had left him, and we were soon +fast friends again. At the proper time I ventured the opinion that the +rifle could not go off again, and that it would be well enough to finish +the cutting process. He consented and soon had the barrel cut off. I +took the breech end home with me, and endangered my life with it many +years. I generally loaded it with blasting powder, for the reason that +it was usually on hand and cost me nothing, and so loaded, the cannon +made more noise than had I used gunpowder. + +During the campaign in which Gen. George B. McClellan ran for the +Presidency against Abraham Lincoln, the Democrats of Northern California +had a great celebration which lasted two or three days. Among other +things was a barbecue at the race track, two or three miles out of town. +Great pits were dug which were filled with oak stumps and logs, and +burned for about twenty-four hours before the cooking began. These logs +were reduced to a perfect bed of live coals. Over these, old-fashioned +Southern negroes, of whom there were many in the neighborhood, cooked +quarters of beef, whole sheep, pigs, chickens, ducks, turkeys and geese. +There were at least five thousand people on the ground. My blacksmith +friend, Allison, was firing a salute with an old cannon. He fired the +cannon after it was loaded, with an iron rod, one end of which was kept +heated in a small fire. I attended to the fire for him. After the +discharge the gun was wiped out with a wet swab. The powder was done up +in red flannel cartridges. Allison, with heavy, buckskin gloves on his +hands, would hold his thumb over the vent or tube of the cannon. Two +men, first slitting the lower end of the cartridge, would ram it into +the gun. During each loading process I straddled the gun, looking +towards Allison. After a number of discharges, the heat burned a hole +through the glove that Allison was using, and his thumb, coming in +contact with the hot metal, was withdrawn for an instant, while the +assistants were sending home a charge. There was an immediate premature +explosion. I was sitting astride the gun, and felt it rise up and buck +like a horse. Allison's eyes were nearly ruined, and his face filled +with powder, the marks of which stayed with him the rest of his life. +The two assistants were horribly mutilated, but neither of them was +killed. For a time I thought I never would hear again. My ears simply +shut up and refused to open for some time. + +It would seem that this disaster should have been sufficient for one +day, but it was not. That night there was to have been public speaking +in front of the Western Hotel, by many prominent politicians. Opposite +the hotel was a two-story brick building, with a veranda built around +it. All of the offices on the second floor opened on this veranda. It +was crowded with people. The weight became excessive. The iron posts +next to the sidewalk, which sustained the veranda, slid out, and the +platform swung down like a table leaf, spilling everybody onto the +sidewalk. Eight or nine people were killed outright, and many more very +severely injured. + +When about twelve years of age I got hold of two greyhounds, sisters, +named "Flora" and "Queen." During the winter time I spent much time +chasing jackrabbits. In summer time the ground got so hard that the dogs +would not run. The ground hurt their feet. But in the winter we had +great sport. There was an immense open plain east of our property, miles +long and miles wide, and level as a floor. There was a dry weed, without +leaves and of a reddish color, which grew in patches all over this +plain. These weed patches were the hiding places of the jackrabbits. The +game was exciting and stirred one's sporting blood. I found a great +difference in the speed of jackrabbits--as much in fact as in the speed +of blooded horses. Occasionally I would get up one that would actually +run away from the dogs, which were a fast pair. I followed the sport so +persistently, and paid so little attention to fences when they +interfered with my going, that I got the appellation in the neighborhood +of "that d Ń d Graves boy." + +When we got up a hare, away we went after the dogs, just as fast as our +horses would carry us. The sport was hard on horseflesh, so much so that +my father finally forbade me running any of our horses after the hounds. +There lived in our neighborhood a man who owned, and who had put upon +the track some of the fastest horses in the State. At this time he had +retired and raised horses for the fun of it. He also had some good +hounds. He enjoyed the sport as much as I did. Having plenty of good +horses, he furnished me with as many as I needed. We spent many days in +trying to determine which of us had the best dogs. Incidentally, we +wrecked some promising thoroughbreds. The question of the superiority of +our dogs was never settled. We always left the door open for one more +race. + +Our place was the haven of all the boys of my acquaintance. When I was +attending school at Marysville some boy came home with me nearly every +Friday night. We would work at whatever was being done on the place +Saturday forenoon, but the afternoon was ours. With the old gun we took +to the pasture, hunted for game, for birds' nests and even turtles' +nests. The mud turtle, common to all California waters, laid an +astounding number of very hard shelled, oblong, white eggs, considerably +larger than a pigeon's egg. They deposited them in the sand on the +shores of the slough, covering them up, leaving them for the sun to +hatch. They always left some tell-tale marks by which we discovered the +nest. Often we got several hundred eggs in an afternoon. They were very +rich, and of good flavor. + +There were many coons and a few wildcats in the pasture woods. With the +aid of a dog we had great sport with them. Hard pressed, they would take +to the trees, from which we would shoot them. On one occasion we found +four little spitfire, baby lynx, which we carried home and later traded +to the proprietor of a menagerie. We got some money and two pair of +fan-tail pigeons in exchange for them. When quite small they were the +most vicious, untamable little varmints imaginable, and as long as we +had them our hands were badly scratched by them. + +On the bottom land, each year, we had a large and well assorted +vegetable garden. It produced much more than we could possibly use. We +boys would sell things from the garden for amusement and pin money. +During one summer vacation, a boy, one Johnnie Gray, a brother of L. D. +C. Gray of this city, was visiting me. We took a load of vegetables to +Marysville. After selling it, getting our lunch, paying for the shoeing +of our horse (which in those days cost four dollars), and buying some +ammunition for the gun, we had $1.50 left. We quarreled as to how we +should spend this remnant. Not being able to agree, we started home +without buying anything. On the outskirts of Marysville was a brewery. +The price of a five-gallon keg of beer was $1.50. We concluded to take a +keg home with us. It was an awfully hot summer day, and the brewer was +afraid to tap the keg, thinking that the faucet would blow out under the +influence of the heat before we got home. He gave us a wooden faucet, +and told us how to use it. "Hold it so," he said, showing us, "hit it +with a heavy hammer, watch the bung, and when you have driven it in +pretty well, then send it home with a hard blow." We were sure we could +do it. We drove home, put the beer in the shade by the well, spread a +wet cloth over it, and then put our horse away. My parents chided us for +throwing our money away on beer. In the cool of the evening we concluded +to tap the keg. One of us held the faucet and the other did the driving, +but we did not have the success predicted for us by the brewer. + +At the critical moment we drove in the bung, but not with sufficient +momentum to fasten the faucet. It flew out of our hands into the air, +followed by the beer. In about a minute the keg was entirely empty. We +were overwhelmingly drenched and drowned by the escaping beer, but never +got a single drop of it to drink. + +On another occasion some of us children were coming home from +Marysville. We were driving an old white horse, named "Jake," who knew +us and loved us as only a good horse can. He submitted to our abuses, +shared in our pleasure and would not willingly have hurt any of us. We +were in a small, one-seated spring wagon. While driving through a lane, +moved on by the spirit of deviltry, one of us whipped Jake into a run, +and the other one threw the reins over a fence post. The result was as +could have been expected by any sane-minded individual. The horse +stopped so suddenly that he sat down on the singletree, and broke both +the shafts of the wagon. We were hurled out with great force, and got +sundry bruises and abrasions. We wired up the shafts and got home as +best we could, and, I am sorry to say, we lied right manfully as to the +cause of the accident. We told a story of a drunken Mexican on horseback +who chased us a considerable distance, and finally lassoed the horse, +bringing him to so sudden a stop as to cause the damage. Instead of +being punished, as we should have been, we were lauded as heroes of an +attempted kidnapping. + +One of my uncles made for us a four-wheeled wagon, the hub, spokes and +axles being made out of California oak--such a wagon as you can buy in +any store today, only a little larger. We made a kite of large +dimensions, and covered the frame with cotton from a couple of flour +sacks. At certain times of the year, the wind across the Marysville +plains blew with great velocity. This kite, in a strong wind, had great +pulling capacity. We would go out into the plain, put up the kite, and +fasten the string to the tongue of the wagon, three or four of us pile +on, and let her go. The speed that we would travel before the wind by +this means was marvelous, but we tried the kite trick once too often. We +got to going so fast we could not slow down nor successfully guide the +wagon. It ran over an old stump, spilled us all out, and kite and wagon +sailed away clear across Feather River into Sutter County and we never +saw either of them again. + +The boys of the present age have no such opportunities for out-of-door +sports as we did in the olden days. Now it is baseball, automobile +exhibitions and moving picture shows. Increased population, high-power +guns, cultivation of the soil, the breaking up of large ranches into +smaller holdings, have resulted in the disappearance of much of the game +with which the land then abounded. + +Fifty years ago in California, conditions of rural life were necessarily +hard. Our habitations were but little more than shelter from the +elements. We had none of the conveniences of modern life. At our house +we always made our own tallow candles. We hardened the candles by mixing +beeswax with the tallow. We made the beeswax from comb of the honey +taken from bee trees. We corned our own beef and made sauerkraut by the +barrel for winter use. We canned our own fruit, made jelly and jam from +wild berries and wild grapes. We selected perfect ears of corn, shelled +it at home, ran it through a fanning machine, and then had the corn +ground into meal for our own consumption. We raised our own poultry and +made our own butter and cheese, with plenty to sell; put up our own +lard, shoulders, ham and bacon and made our own hominy. The larder was +always well filled. The mother of a family was its doctor. A huge dose +of blue mass, followed by castor oil and quinine, was supposed to cure +everything, and it generally did. In the cities luxuries were few. To +own a piano was the privilege of the very wealthy. + +Speaking of pianos, in the flood of 1863, before Marysville was +protected by its levee, which is now twenty-five feet high, the family +cow swam into the parlor of one of the best mansions of the town, +through the window. When the flood waters had subsided, she was found +drowned on top of the piano. + +Life under the conditions here given was necessarily hard. Our +amusements were few. We, who lived in the country, had plenty of good +air and sound sleep-two things often denied the city resident. Our +sports were few and simple, but of such a nature that they toughened the +fiber and strengthened the muscles of our bodies, thus fitting us to +withstand the heavy drafts on our vitality that the hurly-burly of +modern life entails upon the race. + + + +Last Quail Shoot of the Year 1911 + +Were I musically inclined, I could very appropriately sing, "Darling, I +Am Growing Old." The realization of this fact, as unwelcome as it is, is +from time to time forced upon me. + +On Friday, November 10, 1911, I went to the Westminster Gun Club, in an +open machine, through wind and storm. Got up the next morning at 5 +o'clock, had a duck shoot, drove back thirty miles to Los Angeles, +arriving there at 11:30 a. m. At 1 o'clock I drove to my home, and at 2 +o'clock was off for Ferris Valley on a quail shoot. Had a good outing, +with much hard labor. The next day I got home at half past five, +completely done up. + +As I went to retire, I had a good, stiff, nervous chill. So you can well +see that I can no longer stand punishment, and am "growing old." As I +lay there and shook, I said to myself, "Old fellow, you will soon be a +'has-been.' Your gun and fishing rod will soon decorate your shooting +case as ornaments, rather than as things of utility." Ah, well, let it +be so! The memory of pleasant days when youth and strength were mine; +days when the creel was full, and game limits came my way, will be with +me still. I would not exchange the experience I have had with rod and +gun for all the money any millionaire in the world possesses. + +On my trip to the grounds of the Quail Valley Land Company, some thirty +miles below Riverside, two members of the club and my wife accompanied +me. We were in one of my good, old reliable Franklin cars, and from +Ontario to Riverside we bucked a strong head wind that was cold and +pitiless. It necessarily impeded our progress, as we had on a glass +front, and the top was up, and yet we made the run of seventy-six miles +in three hours and a quarter without ever touching the machine. In fact, +none of the party got out of the machine, from start to finish. + +The big, open fireplace at Newport's home, and the bountiful, +well-cooked supper with which we were greeted, were well calculated to +make us happy and contented. The long drive in the wind rendered all of +us sleepy, and by 9 o'clock we had retired. I never woke up until 6 +o'clock next morning. + +Shooting Grounds. + +After breakfast we proceeded in our machine to the shooting ground. The +sky was heavily overcast with watery, wicked looking clouds. Rifts in +the sky, here and there, let some frozen looking sunbeams through, but +there was no warmth in their rays. We had our first shoot on the edge of +a grain field, but the birds quickly flew to some high hills to the +west. + +Rounding the pass through these hills, I never saw the Perris Valley +more weirdly beautiful. The clouds were high. On the north Mt. San +Bernardino loomed up, grim, snow-capped and forbidding. To the east old +Tahquitz, guardian of the passes to the desert, reared his snow-capped +head, far above the surrounding country. To the south Mt. Palomar +stretched his long, lazy looking form, with his rounded back and +indented outline, from east to west. His distance from us made him look +like a line of low, outlying hills, instead of the sturdy old mountain +that he is. All of these mountains bore most exquisite purple hues. The +same coloring was assumed by those groups of lesser hills that, +cone-like, are scattered over the easterly edge of the Perris Valley, +and which separate the Hemet and the San Jacinto country from the rest +of the valley. The coloring of the floor of the valley itself was +particularly exquisite. There was just enough light, just enough of +sunbeams struggling through the sodden clouds to illuminate, here and +there, an alfalfa field, or here and there a grove of trees, so as to +bring them out in startling contrast to the somber colors of the shaded +portions of the valley. But with it were signs of the dying year, a +premonition of storms to come, storms unpleasant while they last, but +revivifying in their effects. + +Many Quail--Too Cold. + +In the fifteen years during which I have shot upon these grounds, I +never got up more or larger bands of quail than we did that morning. The +day was too cold for good shooting. Give me the good old summer time, +with the thermometer about 80 degrees, for good quail shooting. In the +cool days the birds run or get up and fly a half mile at a time. They +will not scatter out and lie close, so that you can get them up one by +one and fill your bags. On the cold days they also break cover at very +long range. They led us a merry chase up the steepest hills and down the +most abrupt declivities. All of the time we were slowly making good. + +Lloyd Newport was there on his buckskin horse. Now you could see him way +up on a hillside, then again down in some deep valley, running like mad +to check the flight, or turn the running march of some band of birds +that was leading those of us on foot a double-quick run. Shooting as he +rode, now to the right, now to the left, then straight ahead, he got his +share of the birds. + +Little Fred Newport, only 14 years old, was shooting like a veteran, and +long before the rest of us had scored, he proudly announced that he had +the limit. The final round-up found us with 109 birds for seven guns--a +good shoot, under very adverse circumstances. We had the satisfaction of +knowing that we left plenty of birds on the ground for next year. + +The quail shooting of 1911 is at an end. Only the memory of it remains. +I shall cherish the memory deeply in my affections, and let it stir my +enthusiasm for the out-of-door life when the world seems all balled up, +and things are going wrong. + +The Rattlesnake. + +While proceeding along an unfrequented road, with sage brush on each +side of it, we ran across a rattlesnake, about four feet long, and of +good circumference, twisted up into a most peculiar position. +Investigation found that, notwithstanding the coolness of the day, he +was foraging for game, and was engaged in swallowing a good-sized +kangaroo rat. The tail of the rat protruded several inches from his +mouth. The snake glared at us, but made no effort to escape or fight. He +seemed dazed, probably half choked by his efforts to swallow the rat. We +straightened him out on the ground and blew his head off with a shotgun. +We then disgorged the rat, which was at least four or five inches long, +and an inch and a half in diameter. The snake was then quickly skinned. +He had eleven rattles and a button. + +Snakes eat the eggs and the young of the quail. In view of the ravages +by snakes, hawks, weasles, skunks, wildcats and coyotes I do not see how +there are any quail left for the sportsmen. The fight of these marauders +is constantly going on, while the sportsmen's efforts are at present +limited to a very short period. + +At a quarter after two we left Newport's for home. We took in a little +gasoline at Riverside. This was the only stop made on the home run, +which was accomplished in three hours and a quarter (seventy-six miles) +with a perfect score so far as the machine was concerned. + +Nature at Her Loveliest. + +We did not encounter the cruel wind in returning that buffeted us on the +outward trip. I never saw the San Gabriel Valley more beautiful than it +was that afternoon. As we bowled along the road this side of San Dimas, +the entire valley lay before us. To the west were the rugged Sierra +Madre Mountains; on the east, the San Jose Hills. They connected with +the Puente Hills to the south. West of these came the hills of the +Rancho La Merced, running from the San Gabriel River westerly, and +still west of them come the hills, which run east from the Arroyo Seco, +north of the Bairdstown country. From our position these hills all +seemed to connect without any breaks or passes in them. Thus the valley +before us was one mountain-and-hill-bound amphitheater. The sky was +overcast by grayish clouds. The sun hung low in the west, directly in +front of us. How gorgeous was the coloring of the sky and valley! How +the orchards and vineyards were illuminated! How the colors lingered and +seemed to fondle every growing thing, and paint each rock and point of +hill as no artist could! The sun hung in one position for quite a time +before taking its final dip below the horizon. The clouds assumed a +golden tinge, turning to burnished copper. Through breaks or irregular +rifts therein, we got glimpses of the sky beyond of an opalescent blue +in strong contrast with the crimson coloring of the clouds, all of which +were intensely illuminated by the setting sun. Underneath this vast sea +of riotous coloring there was a subdued, intense light, which I can not +describe or account for. It brought every object in the valley plainly +into view, lifted it into space, and illuminated it. After we had passed +Azusa we chanced to look back at "Old Baldy" and the Cucamonga peaks. +They were in a blaze of glorious light, purple, pink, crimson, fiery +red, all mingled indiscriminately, yet all preserved in their individual +intensity. + +Oh, land so rare, where such visions of delight are provided by the +unseen powers for our delectation! As I surveyed this vast acreage, +evidencing the highest cultivation, with princely homes, vast systems of +irrigation, with orange orchards and lemon groves in, every stage of +development, from the plants in the seed beds to trees of maturity and +full production, I congratulated myself on living in such an age, and +amid such environments. + +Let us appreciate, enjoy and defend until our dying day, this glorious +land, unswept by blizzards, untouched by winter's cruel frosts, +unscathed by the torrid breath of sultry summer, a land of perpetual +sunshine, where roses, carnations, heliotrope, and a thousand rare, +choice and delicate flowers bloom in the open air continually, where in +the spring time the senses are oppressed by the odor of orange and lemon +blossoms, and where the orchards yield a harvest so fabulous in returns +as to be almost beyond human comprehension. + + + +An Auto Trip Through the Sierras. + +Tule River and Yosemite. + +I have been in California fifty-four years. During all of this time I +had never visited the Yosemite. Before it was too late I determined to +go there. We started in June, 1911. + +Accompanied by Mrs. Graves, my son Francis and a friend, Dr. A. C. +Macleish, we left Alhambra, June seventh of this year at seven o'clock +a. m. We passed through Garvanza, Glendale and Tropico, and were soon on +the San Fernando road. The run through the town of that name and through +the tunnel, recently constructed to avoid the Newhall grade, was made in +good time and without incident. + +Newhall. + +At Newhall we procured and carried with us a five-gallon can of +gasoline. A short distance out of Saugus, we turned into the San +Francisquito Canyon road. Shortly afterwards a brand new inner tube on +the right rear wheel went completely to pieces. It had been too highly +cured and could not stand the heat. We replaced it with another one, and +were soon crossing and recrossing the stream which meanders down the +canyon. Constantly climbing the grade, we were whirling from sunshine to +shadow alternately as the road was overhung with or free from trees. + +Old Memories Aroused. + +I could not help recalling my trip over the same road with my old +friend, Mr. A. C. Chauvin, on the third day of October, 1876. The road +was fairly good. Our machine was working nicely, the day a pleasant one, +and the trip enjoyable. In a few hours we reached Elizabeth Lake. I +pointed out the very spot at which Chauvin and myself camped thirty-five +years before. + +Ah, the fleeting years! How quickly they have sped! What experiences we +have had! What pleasures we have enjoyed! What sorrows endured in +thirty-five years! Well it is, that then the future was not unfolded to +me, and that all the enthusiasm and hope and ambition of youth led me on +to the goal, which has brought me so much joy, as well as much sorrow. +Momentous events have affected not only my own life, but the life of +nations in these thirty-five years. + +Crossing Antelope Valley. + +We passed the lake, turning down the grade into Antelope Valley. After +several miles of very rolling country, we halted under some almond trees +in a deserted orchard for lunch. The grasshoppers were thicker than +people on a hot Sunday at Venice or Ocean Park in the "good old summer +time." We managed to eat our lunch without eating any of the hoppers, +but there wasn't much margin in our favor in the performance. Before +starting we emptied our can of gasoline into the tank. Soon we +intercepted the road leading from Palmdale to Fairmont and Neenach. We +passed both of these places, then Quail Lake and Bailey Hotel. We were +soon at Lebec. Then came the beautiful ride past Castac Lake, and down +the canyon, under the noble white oak trees, which are the pride of +Tejon Ranch. We passed through Ft. Tejon with its adobe buildings +already fallen or rapidly falling into ruinous decay. Still descending +through the lower reaches of the canyon, we took the final dip down the +big grade and rolled out into the valley. A pleasant stream of water +followed the road out into the plains, at which sleek, fat cattle drank, +or along whose banks they lolled listlessly, having already slaked their +thirst. We whirled past the dilapidated ranch buildings put down in the +guide books as Rose Station. From this point, since my trip over this +country a year ago, much of the road to Bakersfield has been fenced. + +Cloud Effects. + +While crossing Antelope Valley during the afternoon, I observed a most +wonderful cloud effect. A perfectly white cloud hung over Frazier +Mountain. Its base was miles long and as straight as if it had been +sheared off by machinery. Its top was as irregular as its base was +finished. It extended into the sky farther than the blue old mountain +did above the surrounding country. Irregular in shape, it assumed the +form of mountains, valleys, forests, streams, castles and turrets. I +watched it for hours, apparently it never moved. It hung there as +immovable as the mountain beneath it. It was at once an emblem of purity +and apparent stability. After we had passed Fairmont, my attention was +diverted from it for a short time, not over ten minutes, and when again +looking for my cloud, it was gone. Every vestige of it had vanished +completely, and in its place was the blue sky, its color intensified by +reason of its recent meager obscuration. + +Bakersfield. + +We reached Bakersfield early in the evening, having made the run of one +hundred and forty-six miles, over a heavy mountain range, on fifteen +gallons of gasoline. This I call a good performance for any six-cylinder +car. Coming down the Tejon Canyon, we passed the only Joe Desmond of +Aqueduct fame, with some companions, taking lunch by the roadside. He +had come from Mojave. He was bound for Bakersfield to buy hay. + +Off for Porterville. + +We left Bakersfield at seven a. m. next morning, over an excellent road, +for Porterville. Fifty miles after starting we picked up a nail and had +a flat tire. Porterville was reached at eleven o'clock. As a side trip +we were going to a camp of the San Joaquin Light & Power Company, way up +on the Tule River, for the purpose of visiting a grove of big trees +located in that vicinity. As we had many miles of uphill work ahead of +us, we concluded not to delay at Porterville for lunch. We replenished +our lunch basket of the day before from a grocery store, filled our tank +with gasoline and sped on. At twelve o'clock, a few miles beyond the +small village of Springville, which will shortly be connected with the +outside world by a railroad now in process of construction, we halted +for lunch in a shady spot on one of the forks of the Tule River. + +For many miles before reaching Porterville, we saw quite extensive +evidence of the orange industry. There were many groves in full bearing +and miles and miles of young groves but a few years planted or just set +out. + +Tule River Canyon. + +From Porterville to Springville, the canyon of the Tule River is quite +wide. The course of the river itself is marked by a heavy growth of +timber, some quarter of a mile in width. Orange and lemon groves have +been planted in favored localities on the bench lands, here and there, +but not continuously. There is much hilly land back of the canyon +proper, covered with wild oats and evidently devoted entirely to +pasture. Shortly after our noon halt we came to the power plant of the +Mount Whitney Power Company. Here they told us our journey would end +twelve miles further up the stream. From this point the canyon narrowed +rapidly until it became a mere gorge. While precipitously steep, the +roadbed was good. It ran along the left side of the canyon, going up. At +all times we had the right hand side of the canyon in plain view. Far +above us on our side, now in plain sight, now hidden by a projecting +point or tall timber, was the flume of the Mount Whitney Power Company, +which carried water from the river to the powerhouse we had passed. As +we ascended, we continually got nearer to this flume, which was run on a +grade, and at last we passed under it. We saw it shortly afterwards +terminate at an intake in the canyon below our road. From here on I +never enjoyed a more beautiful ride. To my mind there is nothing more +attractive than a California mountain canyon and its thickly-wooded +sides. Below us, foam-covered, white, radiant with light and beauty, ran +the Tule River. In its rapid descent, confined to the bottom of the +canyon, it hurtled along over water-worn boulders of great size, its +swollen masses of surging waters forming here and there cascades, +immense pools and miniature falls. It kept up a loud and constant roar, +not too loud, but with just enough energy to be grateful to the ear. + +The Canyon--A Bower of Beauty. + +We had left behind us the scattering timber of the lower foothills. The +sides of the canyon were clothed and garlanded in various shades of +green from top to bottom. Black oak trees in their fresh, new garbs of +early summer, intermingled with stately pines. All space between these +trees was filled with a rich growth of all the flowering shrubs known to +our California mountains. In the damper places a wild tangle of ferns +and vines and bracken entirely hid the earth from view. Lilacs, white +and purple, in full bloom emitted a fragrance which rendered the air +intoxicating and nearly overpowered one's senses. Mingled with these +bushes were the Cascara Segrada, bright-leafed maples, and the +brilliantly colored stems and vividly green leaves of the Manzanitas, +some in full bloom, some in berries set. The graceful red bud, found in +luxuriant growth in Lake County, was also here. Likewise the elders, +with their heavy clusters of yellow blossoms. The buckeye, with its +long, graceful blossoms, reached far up above the undergrowth. The +mountain sage, differing materially from the valley sage and bearing a +yellow flower, was also here. The mountain balm, with its long purple +blossoms, mingled its colors with its neighbors. Occasionally an humble +thistle, with its blossom of purple base and intense pink center, thrust +up its head through some leafy bower. Crowding all of these was the +grease wood with its yellow bloom, the snow-bush or buckthorn, with a +blossom resembling white lilac and fully as sweet, and all the other +shrubs of our mountain chaparrals, all, however, blended into one +beautiful and fragrant bouquet, so exquisitely formed that man's +ingenuity could never equal it in arranging floral decorations. Then +again a turn in the road would bring us great masses of tall dogwood +with its shining leaves and beautiful white blossoms with yellow +centers. They also, like the ferns, sought the cooler, darker spots. +Never before have I seen the California slippery elm or leatherwood tree +in such perfect form. It makes a stately branching tree. Its great +yellow blossoms almost cover the limbs. The shade of the flower is a +deep golden yellow. When mingled with the dogwood, the intense green of +the foliage of the two trees, coupled with the white and yellow +decorations, made a bouquet of rarest beauty. Thimble-berry bushes, rich +in color, bright of leaf and rank of growth, sported their great white +blossoms with much grace and dignity. Yellow buttercups, carnations, +violets of three colors, white, yellow and purple, half hid their +graceful heads under the tangled growth of various grasses by the +wayside. The wild iris moved their varicolored flowers with each passing +breath of air. + +Hyacinths, lupins and hollyhocks were freely interspersed with the +glistening foliage of the shrubbery. The tiger and yellow mountain +lilies were not yet in flower, although we frequently saw their tall +stems bearing undeveloped blossoms. The columbine and white and yellow +clematis were much in evidence, and presented a charming picture as they +wound in and out, and over and around the green leaves of the shrubs, +displaying their creamy blossoms with a dainty air and self-conscious +superiority. In open places beneath the forest trees, where no large +underbrush grew, a fern-like, low shrub, locally known as bear clover, +completely hid the earth. It bore a white blossom with yellow center, +for all the world like that of a strawberry. To my surprise, the Spanish +bayonets in full bloom reared their heads above the lower growing +evergreens. We saw them no further north than the Tule River canyon. +What a picture the sunlight made on the mountain tops and the sloping +sides of the lateral valleys of the canyon! Ah, that river, how +beautiful it was! There it ran below us, in the very bottom of the +canyon, ever moving, ever turbulent, ever flashing in the sunlight, ever +tossing its foamy spray far up into the air, a thing of life, of joy and +ecstatic force. It sang and laughed and gurgled aloud in the happiness +of its life and freedom. Above was the sky, pure and radiantly blue. Its +exquisite coloring was intensified by the wild riot of color beneath it. +We still ascended. Each breath of air we drew was rich with the odor of +pine and fir, mint and balsam. The line of survey on the opposite side +of the canyon from us, marking the course of the tunnel now being +constructed by the San Joaquin Light & Power Company, which terminates +at a point on the mountain side at the junction of a side canyon sixteen +hundred feet above the stream, was now on a level with us. We could see +ahead of us where it, like the flume earlier in the day, reached the +river level. At this point we knew our journey ended. We were pulling +slowly up a stiff, nasty grade, when all at once a loud crash announced +the demolition of some of the internal machinery of our car. We stopped +from necessity. + +"Auto" Breaks Down. + +Our "auto" was a helpless thing. When the clutch was thrown in, it could +only respond with a loud, discordant whirring. It made no forward +movement. We all thought our differential had gone to smash. One of our +party went on ahead, and at a nearby camp we telephoned Mr. Hill, +superintendent of the power company, of our predicament. He directed a +man who was working a pair of heavy horses on a road near by, to hitch +onto us and haul us up to his place, a mile or so distant. All of us, +except Mrs. Graves, and our chauffeur, who had to steer the car and work +the brakes, walked. It was slow going, but the journey finally ended. We +found a good, clean camp, clean beds and a good supper awaiting us. That +night we reaped the sweet repose which comes from exertion in the open +air. + +Early next morning we blocked up our car and took off the rear axle, +uncoupled the differential case and found everything there intact. We +then removed the caps from the wheel hubs and took out the floating +axles, or drive shafts. One of them was broken into two pieces. It +either had a flaw in it when made or had crystallized, no one could +determine which. We got Los Angeles by phone, ordered the necessary +parts by express to Porterville, and, think of it, we had these parts +delivered to us at two o'clock the next afternoon! + +The Soda Spring. + +We spent the rest of Friday, June ninth, in visiting a magnificent soda +and iron spring, a mile above camp, which is for all the world like the +spring of the same quality in Runkle's Meadows, above the lake on Kern +River, some ninety miles above Kernville. The waters of the spring were +deliciously cool and refreshing. + +A Tramp Up A Mountain. + +Next morning the male members of our party started up a steep mountain +trail to see some sequoias I had heard about. Unused as we were to +excessive exercise and the altitude, the climb was a hard one. We +ascended from four thousand feet elevation to over seven thousand feet. +Most of the way the trail was through heavy fir and sugar-pine. Going up +we ran into two beautiful full-grown deer, a buck and a doe. They fled +to security with easy, graceful jumps, into the thick underbrush. We +heard grouse drumming loudly, in two or three different localities and +saw one bird make a long dive from one pine tree to another. We found +wild flowers in profusion, of the same variety, fragrance and coloring +as encountered in the canyon the day before. Just as we reached the +summit, we found, standing on the backbone of the ridge--so located +that rain falling on it would flow from one side of it into one +water-shed, and from the other side into another water-shed--a great, +stately sequoia gigantea fully three hundred feet high and of immense +circumference. There wasn't a branch on it within one hundred feet of +the ground. It was in good leaf, except at the top, which was gnarled +and weather-beaten. Its base had been cruelly burned. This tree bears a +striking resemblance to the grizzly giant which we saw later in the +Mariposa big tree grove near Wawona. Not far from this fine old guardian +of the pass, were groups of noble trees, fully as tall, but not as large +as the one described, but perfect trees, erect, stately, and imposing. +The bark of all of these trees was very smooth and very red, much more +highly colored than the trees in the Wawona grove. + +I was too much fatigued to make another mile down the west side of the +mountain (we had come up from the east) to inspect a much larger grove +of still larger trees. Two of the younger members of our party, my son +Francis and Harry Graves, our chauffeur, made the trip while Dr. +Macleish and I awaited their return on the summit. They came back +enthusiastic over the lower groves, the trees there being much more +numerous in number and much larger in size than the ones we first ran +into. We sat around resting a while, straining our necks looking for, +the tops of those trees, all of which were way up there in the blue sky. +We wondered how many years they had been there, and what revolutions in +climate and topographical appearance of the country they had witnessed. +Finally, having satiated ourselves with their beauty, we started on the +return journey, which was made without incident, except that we +disturbed a hen grouse with a fine brood of little ones about the size +of a valley quail. + +A Mother Grouse. + +The mother bird flew into a scrub oak. She there asserted the privilege +of her sex and scolded us in no uncertain tones. When all her young had +flitted away to cover, still scolding, she took one of those long dives +down to a deep dark canyon, flying with incredible rapidity, and +apparently not moving a feather. No other bird I ever saw can do the +trick as a grouse does it. We saw but few other birds on this excursion. +An occasional blue-jay, a vagrant bee-bird, now and then a robin, and +once in a while a most brilliantly colored oriole made up the list. +Fluffy-tailed gray squirrels chattered at us noisily from the wayside +trees. They seemed bubbling over with life and motion. We stopped at the +Soda Springs for a life-giving draught of its refreshing waters, and +were back to camp in time for lunch. + +Flight of Lady-Bugs. + +When we reached the Soda Springs, we met the most remarkable migration +of red lady-bugs that I ever saw. They were coming in myriads from down +the main canyon and each side canyon. They extended in a swarm from the +ground to a distance above it of from ten to twelve feet. Huge rocks +would be covered six or eight inches deep with them. Occasionally they +would light upon a tree, and in a few moments the tree or bush would be +absolutely covered, every speck of foliage hidden. It was difficult to +breathe without inhaling them, and we were kept busy brushing them from +our faces and clothes. They were all traveling in one direction--down +stream. I believe that they had been into the canyons laying their eggs, +and were returning to the valleys. All afternoon the flight continued, +but by nightfall there wasn't a lady-bug in sight. + +We tried fishing, but the water was too high and too turbulent for +success in the sport. + +Auto Repairs Arrive. + +About two o'clock that afternoon our new floating axle and fittings had +arrived, and in another hour the car was set up and ready for business. + +The following morning (Sunday) we bade Mr. Hill and his men good-bye and +started for Crane Valley. The drive out of the canyon was a beautiful +one. We did not go all the way to Porterville, but went several miles +beyond Springville, turned into Frazier Valley, and went to Visalia by +way of Lindsay and half a dozen small villages, and from there on to +Fresno, which place we reached at about two o'clock. The ride was a hot +one. We drove through miles and miles of orange orchards, some in full +bearing, but mostly recently planted. + +Fresno. + +We left Fresno at about four-thirty o'clock over the same road we +traveled a year before. However, before crossing the river, we turned to +the right and went up through a town, Pulaski, where we crossed on a +splendid cement bridge. The road was pretty badly cut up from heavy +teaming, but we got to Crane Valley about ten o'clock p. m. We had +considerable trouble with our carburetor during the afternoon, and lost +much time trying to locate the trouble, but without avail. + +The younger members of the party, although the hour was late, went to +prowling around the camp for something to eat. They raided the cook's +pie counter in the dark. We had had a splendid lunch at Fresno at two +o'clock, and Mrs. Graves and I were too tired to want anything to eat, +and retired on our arrival. + +Crane Valley. + +Since our visit to Crane Valley a year ago, we found that the then +uncompleted dam was finished. Instead of a small reservoir of water, we +found a vast inland sea, with water one hundred and ten feet deep at its +deepest part. It is six miles long, by from half to one mile in width. +It is twenty-five miles in circumference. The dam proper is nearly two +thousand feet long, and at one part is one hundred and fifty-four feet +high on its lower side. It is built with a cement core, with rock and +earth fill, above and below; that is, on each side of the cement work. +The inner and outer surface of the dam are rock-covered. To give you an +idea, of its capacity, if emptied on a level plain, its waters would +cover forty-two thousand acres of land one foot deep. When we were there +a discharge gate had been open two weeks, discharging a stream of water +two and one-half feet deep, over a weir thirty-eight feet wide, and the +surface of the reservoir had been lowered but two inches. I say, "All +hail to the San Joaquin Light & Power Company and its enterprising +officials, for the great work completed by them." It is a public +benefactor in storing up, for gradual discharge, at a time of the year +when it could do no good, this vast body of water which would otherwise +run to the sea. + +What a place for rest are these mountain valleys! After inspecting the +dam, catching some bass and killing a 'rattlesnake, we were all +contented to sit around for the remainder of the day. A certain languor +takes possession of the human frame when one has come from a lower to a +higher altitude. One ceases to think, his mentality goes to sleep, he +can doze and dream and be happy in doing so. + +Again on the Road. + +Tuesday morning, leaving Mr. Dougherty, the Superintendent, and his good +wife, we started for Wawona. We traveled up the left side of the lake, +over a good road, above the water level, to its extreme western end. +Here we climbed a mountain to an elevation of five thousand five hundred +feet, over a cattle trail which was badly washed out, to a road leading +to Fresno Flats. This place we soon reached over a good but steep +roadbed. + +Then, winding in and out of the canyon through a foothill country, we +made steady progress until we reached the main road from Raymond to +Wawona. The grade was uphill all the time. We left the lumbering camp +known as Sugar Pine to our right. The lumber interests have made a sad +spectacle of miles and miles of country, recently heavily forested. +There seems to be no idea in the lumberman's mind of saving the young +growth when cutting the larger timber. All the young growth is broken +down and destroyed, and finally burned up with the brush and wreckage of +the larger trees, leaving the mountain side scarred and blackened, and +so lye-soaked that immediate growth of even brush or chaparral is +impossible. We passed through Fish Camp, and in a short time came to the +toll-gate at which point the road to the Mariposa Grove of big trees +branches off. + +Wawona. + +The rest of the run to Wawona was all downhill, through heavy timber, +over a good but dusty road. We reached the hotel in time for lunch. That +afternoon, with Mr. Washburn, we took a drive of some miles around the +Big Meadows, near the hotel, went up the river and took in all points of +interest in the neighborhood. Wawona Hotel is pleasantly located. It is +an ideal place to rest. There inertia creeps into the system. You avoid +all unnecessary exercise. You are ever ready to drop into a chair, to +listen to the wind sighing through the trees, to hear the river singing +its never ending song, to watch the robins and the black birds and the +orioles come and go, and observe the never-ending coming and going of +guests. Some are just arriving from the San Joaquin valley, some are +departing to it, or coming home or going to the Yosemite, or starting +off or coming from the Big Trees or Signal Peak. You eat and sleep and +forget the cares of life, forget its troubles, and smelling the incense +of the pines, sleep comes to you the moment your head touches your +pillow and lasts unbrokenly until breakfast-time the next day. + +Los Angeles People Known Everywhere. + +We took passage on a stage-coach next morning for the Wawona big trees. +The trip is one ever to be remembered. The road winds around over the +mountains, always ascending, for about eight miles. The great trees are +scattered over quite an expanse of territory. A technical description of +them would be out of place here. To realize their size and majesty you +must see them. Many are named after prominent men of the nations, and +after various cities and states of the Union. I was glad to see the +names of Los Angeles and Pasadena on two magnificent specimens. We drove +through the trunk of a standing tree, and present herewith a picture of +the feat. The gentleman on the left on the rear seat is a Mr. Isham, and +the lady and gentleman on the same seat are a Mr. and Mrs. Risley, just +returned from a trip around the world. They are from the same city in +the east as Dr. and Mrs. W. Jarvis Barlow, and Mrs. Alfred Solano of +this city, to whom they desired to be warmly remembered. Go where you +will, you meet someone who knows someone in Los Angeles. + +We lunched in the open air at the big trees, and made the return trip in +a reverent mood, almost in silence, each of the party given over to his +or her reflections. I realize that there is in my mind an ineffaceable +mental picture of those gigantic trees, which are so tall, so large, so +impressive and massive that they overpower the understanding. + +During our stay at Wawona we tried fishing in the main river, which was +swollen to a raging torrent by the melting snows. We found it so +discolored and so turbulent that fishing was not a success. We also +visited the cascades. An immense body of water comes down a rocky gorge +very precipitously. From one rock to another the water dashes with an +awful roar. Mist and spray ascend and fall over a considerable area, +keeping the trees and brush and grass and ferns dripping wet, and it +would soon render one's clothing exceedingly uncomfortable. + +We Go To Yosemite By Stage. + +It is twenty-six miles from Wawona to Yosemite Valley. The stages leave +Wawona at eleven thirty a. m. to make the trip. On June sixteenth we +took our places with some other victims of this piece of transportation +idiocy, on an open four-horse stage for Yosemite. The going was very +slow. It was hot and dusty, and we soon got irritable and uncomfortable. +Why the traveling public should be subjected to this outrage is beyond +me. We ground our weary way over the dusty road, oblivious to the +scenery, until six o'clock, when we suddenly came to Inspiration Point, +our first view of the great Valley. + +Yosemite Valley. + +The beauty of the scene to some extent compensated us for a beastly +ride. Beyond us lay the great gorge known as the Yosemite. Below us the +Merced River. On the left were Ribbon Falls, and just beyond them El +Capitan. On our right, but well in front of us, were the Bridal Veil +Falls. We were just in time to see that wonderful rainbow effect for +which they are celebrated. Surely no more beautiful sheet of water could +be found anywhere. A wonderful volume of water dashes over the cliff, +unbroken by intercepting rocks, and drops a straight distance of six +hundred feet. Then it drops three hundred feet more in dancing cascades +to the floor of the valley and divides up into three good-sized streams +which empty into the Merced River. When once started on its downward +course, the water seems all spray. At the bottom of the first +six-hundred-foot descent it made a mighty shower of mist like escaping +steam from a giant rift in some titanic boiler, and soon reached the +floor of the valley. The road from El Portal comes up on the north side +of the river. We passed El Capitan, which rears its massive head three +thousand three hundred feet in the distance, perpendicularly above the +river. We were shown the pine tree, one hundred and fifty feet high, +growing out of a rift in the rocks on its perpendicular face, more than +two-thirds of the distance from its base. The tree looked to us like a +rose bush, not two feet high, in a garden. + +As we proceeded up the Valley there were pointed out to us the Three +Brothers, a triple group of rocks, three thousand eight hundred feet +high. Cathedral Spire, Sentinel Rock, Yosemite and Lost Arrow Falls, and +all the other points of interest that can be seen on entering the +Valley. + +The river was abnormally high--higher we were told, than it had been in +many years. It flowed with great rapidity, as if hurrying out of the +valley to join the flood waters which had already submerged many acres +of land in the San Joaquin valley, miles below. It looked dark and +wicked, as if it carried certain death in its cold embrace. Half of the +Yosemite valley was flooded. Meadows, rich in natural grasses, were knee +deep with back water. + +We reached the Sentinel Hotel, and sloughing off the most of the fine +emery-like mountain dust with which we were enveloped, we got our first +good look at the Yosemite Falls. They were at their best. Imagine a +large river, coming over a cliff, a seething, foaming mass of spray, and +dropping, in two descents, two thousand six hundred and thirty-four +feet, sending heavenward great clouds of mist! I took one look, then +looked up the Valley to the great Half Dome, to Glacier Point, from +there to Sentinel Peak and the Cathedral Spires, and I concluded that +the Yosemite is too beautiful for description, too sublime for +comprehension and too magnificent for immediate human understanding. In +the presence of those awful cliffs, towering, with an average height of +over three thousand feet, above the floor of the valley; those immense +waterfalls, as they thundered over the canyon walls; that mad river, +gathering their united flow into one embrace, scurrying away with an +irresistible energy that almost sweeps you off your feet as you look at +it, all things human seem to shrink into the infinitesimal. You do not +ask yourself, "How did all this get here?" You accept the situation as +you find it. You leave it to the scientists to dispute whether the +valley was formed wholly by glacial action or by some gigantic +convulsion of nature, which tore its frowning cliffs apart, leaving the +Valley rough, unfinished and uncouth to the gentle, molding hand of Time +to smooth it up and beautify its floor with its present growth of oaks +and pines and shrub and bush and ferns and vines, and laughing, running +waters. + +You are four thousand feet above sea-level. All around you cliffs and +walls tower three thousand feet and upwards above you. Back of these are +still higher peaks, whole mountain ranges, clothed in their snowy +mantles, this season far beyond their usual time. The air is delightful, +pure as the waters of the Yosemite Falls, soft as a carpet of pine +needles to the foot-fall, balmy as the breath of spring, and cool and +invigorating. + +The Valley Overflowing With Visitors. + +The valley is full of people; the hotels crowded, the camps overflowing. +From early dawn until the setting summer sun has cast long shadows over +meadow and stream alike, there is a moving mass of restless people, +either mounted on horseback, in vehicles or on foot, going out or coming +in from the trails and side excursions. The walker seemed to get the +most fun out of life. Man and woman are alike khaki clad and sunburned +to a berry-brown. They walk with the easy grace of perfect strength and +long practice, and think nothing of "hiking" to the top of Yosemite +Falls or Sentinel Peak and back. One of the favorite trips is to Glacier +Point by the Illilouette, Vernal and Nevada Falls, a distance of eleven +miles, remaining there all night at a comfortable inn and returning by a +shorter route by Sentinel Peak. + +Looking up between the rocky walls of the valley, how far away the stars +all looked at night! In that pure atmosphere, how beautiful the sky! How +perfect each constellation! Each star with peculiar brightness shone. +One's view of the sky is circumscribed by the height of the cliffs. +Instead of the great arched vault of heaven one usually looks up to, one +sees only that part of the sky immediately above the valley. It was like +looking at the heavens from the bottom of a deep, narrow shaft. I looked +in vain for well known beacon lights. They were not in sight. The +towering cliffs shut them out. The sky looked strange to me, yet how +beautiful it was! Through the gathering darkness we took one more look +at the Yosemite Falls and betook ourselves to bed, to sleep the sleep +once enjoyed in the long ago, when as children we returned, tired but +happy, from some long outing in the woods. + +We Visit the Floor of the Valley. + +On the following morning we took in the sights of the floor of the +valley. We rode to Mirror Lake, which, however, did not come up to its +reputation. This summer the entrance to the lake has changed its channel +from its west to its east side, and a long sand bar has been deposited +in the lake proper, all of which our guide told us marred the +reflections usually visible therein. + +We passed hundreds of people of all ages walking through the valley. In +visiting the Yosemite you do not realize that the valley is several +miles long, and has an average width of about one-half a mile. The great +height of the surrounding walls dwarfs your idea of distance. Even the +trees, many of which are of great size, look small and puny. + +The Happy Isles. + +We drove to the Happy Isles, small islands covered with trees, around +which the river surges in foaming masses. Standing at the upper end of +the one of the Happy Isles, one gets a splendid impression of the +cascade effect of the waters, rushing madly down a steep rocky channel, +with an irresistible, terrifying force. The descent of the bed of the +stream is very marked. The waters come over submerged, rocky masses. +Just as you think that maddened torrent must sweep over the island, +engulfing you in its course, the stream divides, half of it passing to +the right, and half to the left. These divided waters unite again +farther down the valley. + +On our return from this short excursion, Francis, Dr. Macleish and +Harry, taking their lunch with them, walked up to the top of the +Yosemite Falls. They stood beneath the flag at Yosemite Point and got a +comprehensive view of the entire valley. They reported the trip a +heart-breaking one. + +Military Government. + +The valley has a military government. What Major Forsyth says goes. +There are no saloons in the Yosemite, nor are there any cats. The Major +saw a cat catch a young gray squirrel. He issued an edict that the cats +must go or be killed. They went. + +Excursion to Glacier Point. + +The next day all of our party, except Mrs. Graves, who had made the +journey some years before, went to the top of Glacier Point. We took a +stage to the Happy Isles and there mounted mules for the trail. The +climb is a steady one. Soon we got our first view of the Vernal Falls. +To my mind they are the most perfect waterfalls in the Valley. The water +flows over the cliffs an unbroken mass, one hundred feet wide. The +initial drop is three hundred and fifty feet. The effect can not be +imagined by one who has not seen the actual descent of this great mass +of water. The emerald pond above the falls, in which the waters assume +an emerald hue, and appear to seek a momentary rest before taking the +final plunge over the cliffs, is one of the Valley's beauty spots. The +roar of the falling waters, striking the rocks below, is loud and +reverberating. Great clouds of spray and mist float off in falling +masses, appearing more like smoke than water. + +After passing Vernal Falls you come to the Diamond Cascades. They are +below the Nevada Falls. The long flowing waters from the Nevada Falls +have cut a channel deep into the bed rock. You cross this channel on a +bridge. Under and below the bridge the water flows with such velocity +that great volumes of it are hurled into the air in long strings, one +succeeding the other. The sunlight on these strings of water makes them +flash like diamonds. The effect is as if some one were sowing diamonds +by the bushel above the water. A similar effect is noticed, though not +so pronounced, just above the Nevada Falls. The latter are something +like a mile above Vernal Falls. They are six hundred feet high. They +seem to come over the cliff like the Yosemite Falls, through a broken or +distorted lip, and the water is lashed to foam and looks for all the +world like the smoke of some mighty conflagration, upon which a score of +modern fire engines are playing. Near the top of the Nevada Falls is a +fir tree more than ten feet in diameter, said to be the largest tree in +the Yosemite Valley. Just above the falls we again crossed the river on +a bridge. Near the bridge, on the rocks is plain evidence of glacial +scourings. A glacial deposit is left in patches on the rocks which is +today as smooth as plate glass. + +Abandoned Eagle's Nest. + +Above Vernal Falls we skirted the base and climbed partly around the +side of Liberty Cap, one of the great granite domes of the valley, until +we reached the top of the cliff over which the Nevada Falls plunge. Well +up on the side of this cliff, in an inaccessible retreat, our guide, who +had traversed this route for twenty-two years, showed me an ancient but +now abandoned eagle's nest. The noble birds, in late years, not liking +the coming of the thousands of excursionists who passed that way daily, +forsook their home for some other locality. + +The trail now winds around the mountainsides, finally crossing the +canyon above the Illiouette Falls. In a short time we are at Glacier +Point. As you go out to the iron railing erected on the outer edge of a +flat rock on the extreme edge of the cliff, and look down into the +valley below you, you can not help a shrinking feeling, and you are only +too glad soon to move back and get a view from safer quarters. + +Overhanging Rock. + +The celebrated overhanging rock is at this point. It is a piece of +granite, say four or five feet wide, flat on top, but with rounding +edges. It sticks out from the cliff several feet. Foolhardy people walk +out to the edge of it and make their bow to imaginary audiences over +three thousand feet below. One of the guides with our party, wearing +heavy "chaps" (bear-skin overalls) walked out upon this rock, took off +his hat, waved it over his head, posed for his photograph, even took a +jig step or two, stood on one foot and peered into the abyss below with +apparent unconcern. Earlier in life I might have taken a similar chance, +but it would be a physical impossibility for me to do it now. We feasted +our eyes on the magnificent view. + +We were now nearly level with the Half Dome (our elevation was seven +thousand one hundred feet), below us the beautiful valley with its +winding river, bright meadows and stately forests. Horses staked out on +the meadow looked like dogs; people, like ants. The Yosemite, Vernal, +Nevada and Illilouette Falls, Mirror Lake, the roaring cascades above, +the Happy Isles, all the peaks of the upper end of the Valley, and +mountains for miles and miles beyond, snowcapped and storm-swept, were +in plain sight. + +After an appetizing lunch at the hotel, we took the short trail for the +valley. It is three and a half miles long, almost straight up and down, +and is hard riding or walking. But the journey was soon ended, and that +night we again slept the sleep of the joyously tired. + +Morning came too soon, ushering in another perfect mountain day. We +simply loafed around, never tiring of looking at the river or falls in +sight, or the everlasting cliffs above us. We put in an hour or two +watching a moving-picture outfit photographing imitation Indians. + +Views Through A "Claude Lorraine Glass." + +That evening as the daylight waned, while sky and stream, trees, +mountains and jagged peaks were still gloriously tinted with the sun's +last rays, Mr. Chris. Jorgenson, the artist, brought out a "Claude +Lorraine glass." We stood upon the bridge of the Merced river and caught +upon the glass the Half Dome, bathed in mellow light; the Yosemite Falls +with its great mass of falling waters exquisitely illuminated; Sentinel +Peak, the swiftly moving river fringed with green trees, the grassy +meadows and the fleecy clouds. The picture of reflected beauty so +produced, such tints and colors, such glints of stream and forest, such +a glorified reproduction of the beauties of the Valley can only be +imagined, they can not be described. + +There were enough Los Angeles people in the Yosemite at the time to have +voted a bond issue. They were all out for a good time, and were having +it. + +Our Return to Wawona. + +Not wishing to undergo the torture of the noon-day ride back to Wawona, +a party of us chartered a stage to leave the Valley at six o'clock a. m. +We got off next morning at six-forty and had a delightful drive, making +Wawona before noon. Thus a few hours' difference in the time of starting +made a pleasure of what otherwise would have been a torment. While we +were in the Valley some Los Angeles friends had arrived at Wawona and +were in camp near the hotel. + +Signal Peak. + +We rested at Wawona several days. During one of these I went with the +boys on horseback to Signal Peak, whose elevation is seven thousand and +ninety-three feet. The San Joaquin valley was enveloped in haze, but the +mountain ranges east of us were in plain sight. We could see all the +peaks from Tallac at Lake Tahoe to Mt. Whitney. Mt. Ritter, Mt. Dana, +Mt. Hamilton, Galen Clarke, Star King, Lyell, the Gale Group, and others +whose names I do not now recall, stood out in bold relief, encased in +snowy mantles. The view from Signal Peak is well worth the trip. We +enjoyed it so much that we persuaded Mrs. Graves and some ladies to take +it next day by carriage, which is easily done. + +On June twenty-third the boys went to Empire Meadows, some eleven miles +distant, with a fishing party. They had fair luck, the entire party +taking nearly two hundred eastern brook trout. + +Homeward Bound. + +On the morning of June twenty-fourth, at six o'clock, we started on our +homeward journey. We had carburetor trouble coming up--we still had it +going out, until at last our driver discovered that one of the +insulating wires had worn through its covering and, coming in contact +with metal, had resulted in a short circuit. When this was remedied our +troubles were over, and our machine performed handsomely. The first +forty-four miles to Raymond were all downhill, over a very rough road, +with sharp turns and depressions every one hundred feet or so, to allow +the rainwater to run off of the road, which rendered the going very +slow. We were three hours and a half reaching Raymond. Passing this +point we sped into Madera, then to Firebaugh. During the morning we saw +a stately pair of wild pigeons winging their swift flight in and out of +some tall pine trees. + +Water High in San Joaquin Valley. + +The San Joaquin river was very high and had overflowed thousands of +acres of land. Our road, slightly elevated, passed for miles through an +inland sea. To reach Los Banos, we made a wide detour to the left. We +crossed the Pacheco Pass into the Santa Clara valley. We had intended to +go to Holister by way of San Felipe. Some three miles from the latter +place we saw a sign reading "Hollister nine miles." We took the road +indicated and must have saved six or seven miles. + +Hollister. + +This portion of the country is largely given over to fruit growing and +raising flower and garden seed, acres and acres of which were in full +bloom, and the mingled colors were exceedingly charming. We reached +Holister in good time, one hundred and seventy miles from Wawona. We +found good accommodations at the Hotel Hartman. Bright and early next +morning we were off. We went due west. We found the bridge over the +Pajaro river utterly destroyed by last winter's rains. We crossed +through the bed of the stream without difficulty and were soon upon the +main road to Salinas, just below San Juan. As we ascended the San Juan +hills, we paused at a turn in the road and got a view of the beautiful +valley in which Hollister lies. No more peaceful landscape ever greeted +mortal eye. Every acre as far as one could see, not devoted to +pasturage, was cultivated. There were grain and hay fields, orchards by +the mile, and the seed farms in full bloom, while cattle and horses +grazed peacefully in many pastures. We turned away with regret at +leaving a land so beautiful, so happy and contented looking. + +"The Ferryman." + +At Salinas river we found a man with a good-sized team of horses, who, +for one dollar and fifty cents, hauled us through a little water which +we could have crossed without difficulty, and a quarter of a mile of +loose, shifting sand which we could never have crossed without his aid. +He has a tent in which he has lived since last winter, and he gets them +"coming and going," as no machine can negotiate that stretch of road +unassisted. He earns his money, and I wish him well. + +Fine Run to Los Olivos. + +Taking out the time spent at lunch and in taking on gasoline, we reached +Los Olivos, two hundred and thirty-one miles from Hollister, in eleven +hours' running time. We again had good accommodations at Los Olivos and +were off next morning on the final "leg" of our journey. The road from +the north side of Gaviote Pass to within a few miles of Santa Barbara is +a disgrace to Santa Barbara county. I prefer the valley route with its +heat to the coast route, and I warn all automobilists to avoid the +latter route. + +We had a good lunch at Shepherd's Inn, and then ran home in time for +dinner. We came by Calabasas, and just before we reached the Cahuenga +Pass we turned off and went through Lankershim on our way to Alhambra. +We all remarked that in no section of the state we had visited did the +trees look as healthy, the alfalfa as luxuriant, the garden truck as +vigorous, as they did at Lankershim. Every inch of the ground there is +cultivated; there are no waste spots. + +"Home Again." + +Home looked better and dearer to us when we reached it than it ever did +before. We had traveled one thousand and forty-five miles and used on +the trip one hundred and four gallons of gasoline, thus averaging over +all sorts of roads, including several mountain ranges, a little better +than ten miles to the gallon. I defy any six cylinder car in America to +beat this record. I used the same old Franklin car, in which I have made +four tours of California. I have no apology to offer for breaking the +driveshaft. The parts of any car will stand just so much. Pass this +point and trouble ensues. This grand old car has run over eighty +thousand miles and seen much hardship. I salute it! + +The End. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Out of Doors--California and Oregon +by J. A. 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