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diff --git a/1149-h/1149-h.htm b/1149-h/1149-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b7cd9a --- /dev/null +++ b/1149-h/1149-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4373 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>From London to Land's End</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4 { + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + TD { vertical-align: top; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray;} + + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h2> +<a href="#startoftext">From London to Land's End, by Daniel Defoe</a> +</h2> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg eBook, From London to Land's End, by Daniel Defoe, +Edited by Henry Morley + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: From London to Land's End + and Two Letters from the "Journey through England by a Gentleman" + + +Author: Daniel Defoe + +Editor: Henry Morley + +Release Date: April 16, 2007 [eBook #1149] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM LONDON TO LAND'S END*** +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1888 Cassell & Company edition by +David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<h1><span class="smcap">from</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">London to Land’s End</span>.</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +DANIEL DEFOE.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">and</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Two Letters from the</i> +“<i>Journey through England by a Gentleman</i>.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center">CASSELL & COMPANY, <span +class="smcap">Limited</span>:<br /> +<span class="smcap">london</span>, <span +class="smcap">paris</span>, <span class="smcap">new york</span> +& <span class="smcap">melbourne</span>.<br /> +1888.</p> +<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<p>At the end of this book there are a couple of letters from a +volume of the “Travels in England” which were not by +Defoe, although resembling Defoe’s work so much in form and +title, and so near to it in date of publication, that a volume of +one book is often found taking the place of a volume of the +other. A purchaser of Defoe’s “Travels in +England” has therefore to take care that he is not buying +one of the mixed sets. Each of the two works describes +England at the end of the first quarter of the eighteenth +century. Our added descriptions of Bath, and of the journey +by Chester to Holyhead, were published in 1722; Defoe’s +“Journey from London to the Land’s End” was +published in 1724, and both writers help us to compare the past +with the present by their accounts of England as it was in the +days of George the First, more than a hundred and sixty years +ago. The days certainly are gone when, after a good haul of +pilchards, seventeen can be bought for a halfpenny, and two +gentlemen and their servant can have them broiled at a tavern and +dine on them for three farthings, dressing and all. In +another of his journeys Defoe gives a seaside tavern bill, in +which the charges were ridiculously small for everything except +for bread. It was war time, and the bread was the most +costly item in the bill.</p> +<p>In the earlier part of this account of the “Journey from +London to the Land’s End,” there is interest in the +fresh memories of the rebuilding and planting at Hampton Court by +William III. and Queen Mary. The passing away, and in +opinion of that day the surpassing, of Wolsey’s palace +there were none then to regret.</p> +<p>A more characteristic feature in this letter will be found in +the details of a project which Defoe says he had himself +advocated before the Lord-Treasurer Godolphin, for the settlement +of poor refugees from the Palatinate upon land in the New +Forest. Our friendly relations with the Palatinate had +begun with the marriage of James the First’s eldest +daughter to the Elector Palatine, who brought on himself much +trouble by accepting the crown of Bohemia from the subjects of +the Emperor Ferdinand the Second. As a Protestant Prince +allied by marriage to England, he drew from England sympathies +and ineffectual assistance. Many years afterwards, during +the war with France in Queen Anne’s time, the allies were +unprosperous in 1707, and Marshal Villars was victorious upon the +Rhine. The pressure of public feeling on behalf of refugees +from the Palatinate did not last long enough for any action to be +taken. But if it had seemed well to the Government to +accept the project advocated by Defoe, we should have had a +clearance of what is now the most beautiful part of the New +Forest, near Lyndhurst; and in place of the little area that +still preserves all the best features of forest land, we should +have had a town of Englishmen descended from the latest of the +German settlements upon our soil. Upon the political +economy of Defoe’s project, and the accuracy of his +calculations, and the more or less resemblance of his scheme to +the system of free grants of land in unsettled regions beyond the +sea, each reader will speculate in his own way.</p> +<p>There are interesting notes on the extent of the sheep farming +upon the Downs crossed in this journey. There is high +praise of the ladies of Dorsetshire. There are some +pleasant notes upon dialect, including the story, often quoted, +of the schoolboy whom Defoe saw and heard reading his Bible in +class, and while following every word and line with his eye, +translating it as he went into his own way of speech. Thus +he turned the third verse of the fifth chapter of Solomon’s +Song, “I have put off my coat; how shall I put it on? +I have washed my feet; how shall I defile them?” into +“Chav a doffed my cooat; how shall I don’t? +Chav a washed my veet; how shall I moil ’em?” +This is a good example of intelligent reading; for the boy took +in the sense of the printed lines, and then made it his own by +giving homely utterance to what he understood.</p> +<p>Defoe tells in this letter several tales of the shorefolk +about the Great Storm of November, 1703, recollection of which +Addison used effectively in the following year in his poem on the +Battle of Blenheim. There was the sweeping away of the +first Eddystone Lighthouse, with the builder, confident in its +strength, who had desired to be in it some night when the wind +blew with unusual fury. There was the story also of the man +and two boys, in a ship laden with tin, blown out of Helford +Haven, and of their hairbreadth escape by counsel of one of the +boys who ran the ship through rocks into a narrow creek that he +knew in the Isle of Wight. The form of the coast has been +changed so much since 1703 by the beat of many storms, that it +may be now impossible to know that little cove as the boy knew +it. It must have been at the back of the island. Were +the storm waves tossing then in Steephill Cove or Luccombe +Chine? Does there survive anywhere a tradition of that +perilous landing? Probably not. Wreck follows upon +wreck, and memory of many tales of death and peril on the +rock-bound coast lie between us and the boy who took the helm +when he spied the well-known creek as the great storm was +sweeping the ship on to destruction. From the next year +after that famous storm, Defoe gives a memory of disaster seen by +himself at Plymouth in the wreck of a little fleet from +Barbadoes. In another part of this letter he tells what he +had seen of a fight at sea between three French men-of-war and +two English with a convoy of two or three trading vessels.</p> +<p>There will be found also in this letter a good story of a +Cornish dog taken from Carew’s “Survey of +Cornwall,” which may pair with that of the London dog who +lately took a wounded fellow dog to hospital.</p> +<p>The writer of this letter speaks of the civil war times as a +friend of monarchy, but when he tells of the landing of William +III. at Torbay, he suggests that the people had good reason for +rejoicing, and throughout the journey he takes note of a great +inequality he finds in distribution of the right of returning +members to Parliament. It is evident that he could propound +a project for a Reform Bill, though he is careful so to describe +England as to avoid giving offence to Englishmen of any +party. The possibility of some change for the better here +and there presents itself; Defoe glances and passes on. His +theme is England and the English; he shows us, clearly and very +simply, what he has seen of the social life and manners of the +people, of the features of the land itself, and their relation to +its industries; traces of the past, and prospects of the future; +shepherds, fishermen, merchants; catching of salmon peel in +mill-weirs, and catching of husbands at provincial assemblies; +with whatever else he found worth friendly observation.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">H. M.</p> +<h2>FROM LONDON TO LAND’S END</h2> +<p>Sir,</p> +<p>I find so much left to speak of, and so many things to say in +every part of England, that my journey cannot be barren of +intelligence which way soever I turn; no, though I were to oblige +myself to say nothing of anything that had been spoken of +before.</p> +<p>I intended once to have gone due west this journey; but then I +should have been obliged to crowd my observations so close (to +bring Hampton Court, Windsor, Blenheim, Oxford, the Bath and +Bristol all into one letter; all those remarkable places lying in +a line, as it were, in one point of the compass) as to have made +my letter too long, or my observations too light and superficial, +as others have done before me.</p> +<p>This letter will divide the weighty task, and consequently +make it sit lighter on the memory, be pleasanter to the reader, +and make my progress the more regular: I shall therefore take in +Hampton Court and Windsor in this journey; the first at my +setting out, and the last at my return, and the rest as their +situation demands.</p> +<p>As I came down from Kingston, in my last circuit, by the south +bank of the Thames, on the Surrey side of the river; so I go up +to Hampton Court now on the north bank, and on the Middlesex +side, which I mention, because, as the sides of the country +bordering on the river lie parallel, so the beauty of the +country, the pleasant situations, the glory of innumerable fine +buildings (noblemen’s and gentlemen’s houses, and +citizens’ retreats), are so equal a match to what I had +described on the other side that one knows not which to give the +preference to: but as I must speak of them again, when I come to +write of the county of Middlesex, which I have now purposely +omitted; so I pass them over here, except the palace of Hampton +only, which I mentioned in “Middlesex,” for the +reasons above.</p> +<p>Hampton Court lies on the north bank of the River Thames, +about two small miles from Kingston, and on the road from Staines +to Kingston Bridge; so that the road straightening the parks a +little, they were obliged to part the parks, and leave the +Paddock and the great park part on the other side the +road—a testimony of that just regard that the kings of +England always had, and still have, to the common good, and to +the service of the country, that they would not interrupt the +course of the road, or cause the poor people to go out of the way +of their business to or from the markets and fairs, for any +pleasure of their own whatsoever.</p> +<p>The palace of Hampton Court was first founded and built from +the ground by that great statesman and favourite of King Henry +VIII, Cardinal Wolsey; and if it be a just observation anywhere, +as is made from the situation of the old abbeys and monasteries, +the clergy were excellent judges of the beauty and pleasantness +of the country, and chose always to plant in the best; I say, if +it was a just observation in any case, it was in this; for if +there be a situation on the whole river between Staines Bridge +and Windsor Bridge pleasanter than another, it is this of +Hampton; close to the river, yet not offended by the rising of +its waters in floods or storms; near to the reflux of the tides, +but not quite so near as to be affected with any foulness of the +water which the flowing of the tides generally is the occasion +of. The gardens extend almost to the bank of the river, yet +are never overflowed; nor are there any marshes on either side +the river to make the waters stagnate, or the air unwholesome on +that account. The river is high enough to be navigable, and +low enough to be a little pleasantly rapid; so that the stream +looks always cheerful, not slow and sleeping, like a pond. +This keeps the waters always clear and clean, the bottom in view, +the fish playing and in sight; and, in a word, it has everything +that can make an inland (or, as I may call it, a country) river +pleasant and agreeable.</p> +<p>I shall sing you no songs here of the river in the first +person of a water-nymph, a goddess, and I know not what, +according to the humour of the ancient poets; I shall talk +nothing of the marriage of old Isis, the male river, with the +beautiful Thame, the female river (a whimsey as simple as the +subject was empty); but I shall speak of the river as occasion +presents, as it really is made glorious by the splendour of its +shores, gilded with noble palaces, strong fortifications, large +hospitals, and public buildings; with the greatest bridge, and +the greatest city in the world, made famous by the opulence of +its merchants, the increase and extensiveness of its commerce; by +its invincible navies, and by the innumerable fleets of ships +sailing upon it to and from all parts of the world.</p> +<p>As I meet with the river upwards in my travels through the +inland country I shall speak of it, as it is the channel for +conveying an infinite quantity of provisions from remote counties +to London, and enriching all the counties again that lie near it +by the return of wealth and trade from the city; and in +describing these things I expect both to inform and divert my +readers, and speak in a more masculine manner, more to the +dignity of the subject, and also more to their satisfaction, than +I could do any other way.</p> +<p>There is little more to be said of the Thames relating to +Hampton Court, than that it adds by its neighbourhood to the +pleasure of the situation; for as to passing by water to and from +London, though in summer it is exceeding pleasant, yet the +passage is a little too long to make it easy to the ladies, +especially to be crowded up in the small boats which usually go +upon the Thames for pleasure.</p> +<p>The prince and princess, indeed, I remember came once down by +water upon the occasion of her Royal Highness’s being great +with child, and near her time—so near that she was +delivered within two or three days after. But this passage +being in the royal barges, with strength of oars, and the day +exceeding fine, the passage, I say, was made very pleasant, and +still the more so for being short. Again, this passage is +all the way with the stream, whereas in the common passage +upwards great part of the way is against the stream, which is +slow and heavy.</p> +<p>But be the going and coming how it will by water, it is an +exceeding pleasant passage by land, whether we go by the Surrey +side or the Middlesex side of the water, of which I shall say +more in its place.</p> +<p>The situation of Hampton Court being thus mentioned, and its +founder, it is to be mentioned next that it fell to the Crown in +the forfeiture of his Eminence the Cardinal, when the king seized +his effects and estate, by which this and Whitehall (another +house of his own building also) came to King Henry VIII. +Two palaces fit for the kings of England, erected by one +cardinal, are standing monuments of the excessive pride as well +as the immense wealth of that prelate, who knew no bounds of his +insolence and ambition till he was overthrown at once by the +displeasure of his master.</p> +<p>Whoever knew Hampton Court before it was begun to be rebuilt, +or altered, by the late King William, must acknowledge it was a +very complete palace before, and fit for a king; and though it +might not, according to the modern method of building or of +gardening, pass for a thing exquisitely fine, yet it had this +remaining to itself, and perhaps peculiar—namely, that it +showed a situation exceedingly capable of improvement, and of +being made one of the most delightful palaces in Europe.</p> +<p>This her Majesty Queen Mary was so sensible of, that, while +the king had ordered the pulling down the old apartments, and +building it up in that most beautiful form which we see them now +appear in, her Majesty, impatient of enjoying so agreeable a +retreat, fixed upon a building formerly made use of chiefly for +landing from the river, and therefore called the Water Galley, +and here, as if she had been conscious that she had but a few +years to enjoy it, she ordered all the little neat curious things +to be done which suited her own conveniences, and made it the +pleasantest little thing within doors that could possibly be +made, though its situation being such as it could not be allowed +to stand after the great building was finished, we now see no +remains of it.</p> +<p>The queen had here her gallery of beauties, being the pictures +at full-length of the principal ladies attending upon her +Majesty, or who were frequently in her retinue; and this was the +more beautiful sight because the originals were all in being, and +often to be compared with their pictures. Her Majesty had +here a fine apartment, with a set of lodgings for her private +retreat only, but most exquisitely furnished, particularly a fine +chintz bed, then a great curiosity; another of her own work while +in Holland, very magnificent, and several others; and here was +also her Majesty’s fine collection of Delft ware, which +indeed was very large and fine; and here was also a vast stock of +fine china ware, the like whereof was not then to be seen in +England; the long gallery, as above, was filled with this china, +and every other place where it could be placed with +advantage.</p> +<p>The queen had here also a small bathing-room, made very fine, +suited either to hot or cold bathing, as the season should +invite; also a dairy, with all its conveniences, in which her +Majesty took great delight. All these things were finished +with expedition, that here their Majesties might repose while +they saw the main building go forward. While this was +doing, the gardens were laid out, the plan of them devised by the +king himself, and especially the amendments and alterations were +made by the king or the queen’s particular special command, +or by both, for their Majesties agreed so well in their fancy, +and had both so good judgment in the just proportions of things, +which are the principal beauties of a garden, that it may be said +they both ordered everything that was done.</p> +<p>Here the fine parcel of limes which form the semicircle on the +south front of the house by the iron gates, looking into the +park, were by the dexterous hand of the head gardener removed, +after some of them had been almost thirty years planted in other +places, though not far off. I know the King of France in +the decoration of the gardens of Versailles had oaks removed, +which by their dimensions must have been above an hundred years +old, and yet were taken up with so much art, and by the strength +of such engines, by which such a monstrous quantity of earth was +raised with them, that the trees could not feel their +remove—that is to say, their growth was not at all +hindered. This, I confess, makes the wonder much the less +in those trees at Hampton Court gardens; but the performance was +not the less difficult or nice, however, in these, and they +thrive perfectly well.</p> +<p>While the gardens were thus laid out, the king also directed +the laying the pipes for the fountains and +<i>jet-d’eaux</i>, and particularly the dimensions of them, +and what quantity of water they should cast up, and increased the +number of them after the first design.</p> +<p>The ground on the side of the other front has received some +alterations since the taking down the Water Galley; but not that +part immediately next the lodgings. The orange-trees and +fine Dutch bays are placed within the arches of the building +under the first floor; so that the lower part of the house was +all one as a greenhouse for sometime. Here stand advanced, +on two pedestals of stone, two marble vases or flower-pots of +most exquisite workmanship—the one done by an Englishman, +and the other by a German. It is hard to say which is the +best performance, though the doing of it was a kind of trial of +skill between them; but it gives us room, without any partiality, +to say they were both masters of their art.</p> +<p>The <i>parterre</i> on that side descends from the +terrace-walk by steps, and on the left a terrace goes down to the +water-side, from which the garden on the eastward front is +overlooked, and gives a most pleasant prospect.</p> +<p>The fine scrolls and <i>bordure</i> of these gardens were at +first edged with box, but on the queen’s disliking the +smell those edgings were taken up, but have since been planted +again—at least, in many places—nothing making so fair +and regular an edging as box, or is so soon brought to its +perfection.</p> +<p>On the north side of the house, where the gardens seemed to +want screening from the weather or the view of the chapel, and +some part of the old building required to be covered from the +eye, the vacant ground, which was large, is very happily cast +into a wilderness, with a labyrinth and <i>espaliers</i> so high +that they effectually take off all that part of the old building +which would have been offensive to the sight. This +labyrinth and wilderness is not only well designed, and +completely finished, but is perfectly well kept, and the +<i>espaliers</i> filled exactly at bottom, to the very ground, +and are led up to proportioned heights on the top, so that +nothing of that kind can be more beautiful.</p> +<p>The house itself is every way answerable on the outside to the +beautiful prospect, and the two fronts are the largest and, +beyond comparison, the finest of the kind in England. The +great stairs go up from the second court of the palace on the +right hand, and lead you to the south prospect.</p> +<p>I hinted in my last that King William brought into England the +love of fine paintings as well as that of fine gardens; and you +have an example of it in the cartoons, as they are called, being +five pieces of such paintings as, if you will believe men of nice +judgment and great travelling, are not to be matched in +Europe. The stories are known, but especially two of +them—viz., that of St. Paul preaching on Mars Hill to the +self-wise Athenians, and that of St. Peter passing sentence of +death on Ananias—I say, these two strike the mind with the +utmost surprise, the passions are so drawn to the life; +astonishment, terror, and death in the face of Ananias, zeal and +a sacred fire in the eyes of the blessed Apostle, fright and +surprise upon the countenances of the beholders in the piece of +Ananias; all these describe themselves so naturally that you +cannot but seem to discover something of the like passions, even +in seeing them.</p> +<p>In the other there is the boldness and courage with which St. +Paul undertook to talk to a set of men who, he knew, despised all +the world, as thinking themselves able to teach them +anything. In the audience there is anticipating pride and +conceit in some, a smile or fleer of contempt in others, but a +kind of sensible conviction, though crushed in its beginning, on +the faces of the rest; and all together appear confounded, but +have little to say, and know nothing at all of it; they gravely +put him off to hear him another time; all these are seen here in +the very dress of the face—that is, the very countenances +which they hold while they listen to the new doctrine which the +Apostle preached to a people at that time ignorant of it.</p> +<p>The other of the cartoons are exceeding fine but I mention +these as the particular two which are most lively, which strike +the fancy the soonest at first view. It is reported, but +with what truth I know not, that the late French king offered an +hundred thousand <i>louis d’ors</i> for these pictures; but +this, I say, is but a report. The king brought a great many +other fine pieces to England, and with them the love of fine +paintings so universally spread itself among the nobility and +persons of figure all over the kingdom that it is incredible what +collections have been made by English gentlemen since that time, +and how all Europe has been rummaged, as we may say, for pictures +to bring over hither, where for twenty years they yielded the +purchasers, such as collected them for sale, immense +profit. But the rates are abated since that, and we begin +to be glutted with the copies and frauds of the Dutch and Flemish +painters who have imposed grossly upon us. But to return to +the palace of Hampton Court. Queen Mary lived not to see it +completely finished, and her death, with the other difficulties +of that reign, put a stop to the works for some time till the +king, reviving his good liking of the place, set them to work +again, and it was finished as we see it. But I have been +assured that had the peace continued, and the king lived to enjoy +the continuance of it, his Majesty had resolved to have pulled +down all the remains of the old building (such as the chapel and +the large court within the first gate), and to have built up the +whole palace after the manner of those two fronts already +done. In these would have been an entire set of rooms of +state for the receiving and, if need had been, lodging and +entertaining any foreign prince with his retinue; also offices +for all the Secretaries of State, Lords of the Treasury, and of +Trade, to have repaired to for the despatch of such business as +it might be necessary to have done there upon the king’s +longer residence there than ordinary; as also apartments for all +the great officers of the Household; so that had the house had +two great squares added, as was designed, there would have been +no room to spare, or that would not have been very well +filled. But the king’s death put an end to all these +things.</p> +<p>Since the death of King William, Hampton Court seemed +abandoned of its patron. They have gotten a kind of +proverbial saying relating to Hampton Court, viz., that it has +been generally chosen by every other prince since it became a +house of note. King Charles was the first that delighted in +it since Queen Elizabeth’s time. As for the reigns +before, it was but newly forfeited to the Crown, and was not made +a royal house till King Charles I., who was not only a prince +that delighted in country retirements, but knew how to make +choice of them by the beauty of their situation, the goodness of +the air, &c. He took great delight here, and, had he +lived to enjoy it in peace, had purposed to make it another thing +than it was. But we all know what took him off from that +felicity, and all others; and this house was at last made one of +his prisons by his rebellious subjects.</p> +<p>His son, King Charles II., may well be said to have an +aversion to the place, for the reason just +mentioned—namely, the treatment his royal father met with +there—and particularly that the rebel and murderer of his +father, Cromwell, afterwards possessed this palace, and revelled +here in the blood of the royal party, as he had done in that of +his sovereign. King Charles II. therefore chose Windsor, +and bestowed a vast sum in beautifying the castle there, and +which brought it to the perfection we see it in at this +day—some few alterations excepted, done in the time of King +William.</p> +<p>King William (for King James is not to be named as to his +choice of retired palaces, his delight running quite another +way)—I say, King William fixed upon Hampton Court, and it +was in his reign that Hampton Court put on new clothes, and, +being dressed gay and glorious, made the figure we now see it +in.</p> +<p>The late queen, taken up for part of her reign in her kind +regards to the prince her spouse, was obliged to reside where her +care of his health confined her, and in this case kept for the +most part at Kensington, where he died; but her Majesty always +discovered her delight to be at Windsor, where she chose the +little house, as it was called, opposite to the Castle, and took +the air in her chaise in the parks and forest as she saw +occasion.</p> +<p>Now Hampton Court, by the like alternative, is come into +request again; and we find his present Majesty, who is a good +judge too of the pleasantness and situation of a place of that +kind, has taken Hampton Court into his favour, and has made it +much his choice for the summer’s retreat of the Court, and +where they may best enjoy the diversions of the season. +When Hampton Court will find such another favourable juncture as +in King William’s time, when the remainder of her ashes +shall be swept away, and her complete fabric, as designed by King +William, shall be finished, I cannot tell; but if ever that shall +be, I know no palace in Europe, Versailles excepted, which can +come up to her, either for beauty and magnificence, or for extent +of building, and the ornaments attending it.</p> +<p>From Hampton Court I directed my course for a journey into the +south-west part of England; and to take up my beginning where I +concluded my last, I crossed to Chertsey on the Thames, a town I +mentioned before; from whence, crossing the Black Desert, as I +called it, of Bagshot Heath, I directed my course for Hampshire +or Hantshire, and particularly for Basingstoke—that is to +say, that a little before, I passed into the great Western Road +upon the heath, somewhat west of Bagshot, at a village called +Blackwater, and entered Hampshire, near Hartleroe.</p> +<p>Before we reach Basingstoke, we get rid of that unpleasant +country which I so often call a desert, and enter into a pleasant +fertile country, enclosed and cultivated like the rest of +England; and passing a village or two we enter Basingstoke, in +the midst of woods and pastures, rich and fertile, and the +country accordingly spread with the houses of the nobility and +gentry, as in other places. On the right hand, a little +before we come to the town, we pass at a small distance the +famous fortress, so it was then, of Basing, being a house +belonging then to the Marquis of Winchester, the great ancestor +of the present family of the Dukes of Bolton.</p> +<p>This house, garrisoned by a resolute band of old soldiers, was +a great curb to the rebels of the Parliament party almost through +that whole war; till it was, after a vigorous defence, yielded to +the conquerors by the inevitable fate of things at that +time. The old house is, indeed, demolished but the +successor of the family, the first Duke of Bolton, has erected a +very noble fabric in the same place, or near it, which, however, +is not equal to the magnificence which fame gives to the ancient +house, whose strength of building only, besides the outworks, +withstood the battery of cannon in several attacks, and repulsed +the Roundheads three or four times when they attempted to besiege +it. It is incredible what booty the garrison of this place +picked up, lying as they did just on the great Western Road, +where they intercepted the carriers, plundered the waggons, and +suffered nothing to pass—to the great interruption of the +trade of the city of London.</p> +<p>Basingstoke is a large populous market-town, has a good market +for corn, and lately within a very few years is fallen into a +manufacture, viz., of making druggets and shalloons, and such +slight goods, which, however, employs a good number of the poor +people, and enables them to get their bread, which knew not how +to get it before.</p> +<p>From hence the great Western Road goes on to Whitchurch and +Andover, two market-towns, and sending members to Parliament; at +the last of which the Downs, or open country, begins, which we in +general, though falsely, call Salisbury Plain. But my +resolution being to take in my view what I had passed by before, +I was obliged to go off to the left hand, to Alresford and +Winchester.</p> +<p>Alresford was a flourishing market-town, and remarkable for +this—that though it had no great trade, and particularly +very little, if any, manufactures, yet there was no collection in +the town for the poor, nor any poor low enough to take alms of +the parish, which is what I do not think can be said of any town +in England besides.</p> +<p>But this happy circumstance, which so distinguished Alresford +from all her neighbours, was brought to an end in the year ---, +when by a sudden and surprising fire the whole town, with both +the church and the market-house, was reduced to a heap of +rubbish; and, except a few poor huts at the remotest ends of the +town, not a house left standing. The town is since that +very handsomely rebuilt, and the neighbouring gentlemen +contributed largely to the relief of the people, especially by +sending in timber towards their building; also their market-house +is handsomely built, but the church not yet, though we hear there +is a fund raising likewise for that.</p> +<p>Here is a very large pond, or lake of water, kept up to a head +by a strong <i>batter d’eau</i>, or dam, which the people +tell us was made by the Romans; and that it is to this day part +of the great Roman highway which leads from Winchester to Alton, +and, as it is supposed, went on to London, though we nowhere see +any remains of it, except between Winchester and Alton, and +chiefly between this town and Alton.</p> +<p>Near this town, a little north-west, the Duke of Bolton has +another seat, which, though not large, is a very handsome +beautiful palace, and the gardens not only very exact, but very +finely situate, the prospect and vistas noble and great, and the +whole very well kept.</p> +<p>From hence, at the end of seven miles over the Downs, we come +to the very ancient city of Winchester; not only the great church +(which is so famous all over Europe, and has been so much talked +of), but even the whole city has at a distance the face of +venerable, and looks ancient afar off; and yet here are many +modern buildings too, and some very handsome; as the college +schools, with the bishop’s palace, built by Bishop Morley +since the late wars—the old palace of the bishop having +been ruined by that known church incendiary Sir William Waller +and his crew of plunderers, who, if my information is not wrong, +as I believe it is not, destroyed more monuments of the dead, and +defaced more churches, than all the Roundheads in England +beside.</p> +<p>This church, and the schools also are accurately described by +several writers, especially by the “Monasticon,” +where their antiquity and original is fully set forth. The +outside of the church is as plain and coarse as if the founders +had abhorred ornaments, or that William of Wickham had been a +Quaker, or at least a Quietist. There is neither statue, +nor a niche for a statue, to be seen on all the outside; no +carved work, no spires, towers, pinnacles, balustrades, or +anything; but mere walls, buttresses, windows, and coigns +necessary to the support and order of the building. It has +no steeple, but a short tower covered flat, as if the top of it +had fallen down, and it had been covered in haste to keep the +rain out till they had time to build it up again.</p> +<p>But the inside of the church has many very good things in it, +and worth observation; it was for some ages the burying-place of +the English Saxon kings, whose <i>reliques</i>, at the repair of +the church, were collected by Bishop Fox, and being put together +into large wooden chests lined with lead were again interred at +the foot of the great wall in the choir, three on one side, and +three on the other, with an account whose bones are in each +chest. Whether the division of the <i>reliques</i> might be +depended upon, has been doubted, but is not thought material, so +that we do but believe they are all there.</p> +<p>The choir of the church appears very magnificent; the roof is +very high, and the Gothic work in the arched part is very fine, +though very old; the painting in the windows is admirably good, +and easy to be distinguished by those that understand those +things: the steps ascending to the choir make a very fine show, +having the statues of King James and his son King Charles, in +copper, finely cast; the first on the right hand, and the other +on the left, as you go up to the choir.</p> +<p>The choir is said to be the longest in England; and as the +number of prebendaries, canons, &c., are many, it required +such a length. The ornaments of the choir are the effects +of the bounty of several bishops. The fine altar (the +noblest in England by much) was done by Bishop Morley; the roof +and the coat-of-arms of the Saxon and Norman kings were done by +Bishop Fox; and the fine throne for the bishop in the choir was +given by Bishop Mew in his lifetime; and it was well it was for +if he had ordered it by will, there is reason to believe it had +never been done—that reverend prelate, notwithstanding he +enjoyed so rich a bishopric, scarce leaving money enough behind +him to pay for his coffin.</p> +<p>There are a great many persons of rank buried in this church, +besides the Saxon kings mentioned above, and besides several of +the most eminent bishops of the See. Just under the altar +lies a son of William the Conqueror, without any monument; and +behind the altar, under a very fine and venerable monument, lies +the famous Lord Treasurer Weston, late Earl of Portland, Lord +High Treasurer of England under King Charles I. His effigy +is in copper armour at full-length, with his head raised on three +cushions of the same, and is a very magnificent work. There +is also a very fine monument of Cardinal Beaufort in his +cardinal’s robes and hat.</p> +<p>The monument of Sir John Cloberry is extraordinary, but more +because it puts strangers upon inquiring into his story than for +anything wonderful in the figure, it being cut in a modern dress +(the habit gentlemen wore in those times, which, being now so +much out of fashion, appears mean enough). But this +gentleman’s story is particular, being the person solely +entrusted with the secret of the restoration of King Charles II., +as the messenger that passed between General Monk on one hand, +and Mr. Montague and others entrusted by King Charles II. on the +other hand; which he managed so faithfully as to effect that +memorable event, to which England owes the felicity of all her +happy days since that time; by which faithful service Sir John +Cloberry, then a private musketeer only, raised himself to the +honour of a knight, with the reward of a good estate from the +bounty of the king.</p> +<p>Everybody that goes into this church, and reads what is to be +read there, will be told that the body of the church was built by +the famous William of Wickham; whose monument, intimating his +fame, lies in the middle of that part which was built at his +expense.</p> +<p>He was a courtier before a bishop; and, though he had no great +share of learning, he was a great promoter of it, and a lover of +learned men. His natural genius was much beyond his +acquired parts, and his skill in politics beyond his ecclesiastic +knowledge. He is said to have put his master, King Edward +III., to whom he was Secretary of State, upon the two great +projects which made his reign so glorious, viz.:—First, +upon setting up his claim to the crown of France, and pushing +that claim by force of arms, which brought on the war with +France, in which that prince was three times victorious in +battle. (2) Upon setting up, or instituting the Order of +the Garter; in which he (being before that made Bishop of +Winchester) obtained the honour for the Bishops of Winchester of +being always prelates of the Order, as an appendix to the +bishopric; and he himself was the first prelate of the Order, and +the ensigns of that honour are joined with his episcopal +ornaments in the robing of his effigy on the monument above.</p> +<p>To the honour of this bishop, there are other foundations of +his, as much to his fame as that of this church, of which I shall +speak in their order; but particularly the college in this city, +which is a noble foundation indeed. The building consists +of two large courts, in which are the lodgings for the masters +and scholars, and in the centre a very noble chapel; beyond that, +in the second court, are the schools, with a large cloister +beyond them, and some enclosures laid open for the diversion of +the scholars. There also is a great hall, where the +scholars dine. The funds for the support of this college +are very considerable; the masters live in a very good figure, +and their maintenance is sufficient to support it. They +have all separate dwellings in the house, and all possible +conveniences appointed them.</p> +<p>The scholars have exhibitions at a certain time of continuance +here, if they please to study in the new college at Oxford, built +by the same noble benefactor, of which I shall speak in its +order.</p> +<p>The clergy here live at large, and very handsomely, in the +Close belonging to the cathedral; where, besides the +bishop’s palace mentioned above, are very good houses, and +very handsomely built, for the prebendaries, canons, and other +dignitaries of this church. The Deanery is a very pleasant +dwelling, the gardens very large, and the river running through +them; but the floods in winter sometimes incommode the gardens +very much.</p> +<p>This school has fully answered the end of the founder, who, +though he was no great scholar, resolved to erect a house for the +making the ages to come more learned than those that went before; +and it has, I say, fully answered the end, for many learned and +great men have been raised here, some of whom we shall have +occasion to mention as we go on.</p> +<p>Among the many private inscriptions in this church, we found +one made by Dr. Over, once an eminent physician in this city, on +a mother and child, who, being his patients, died together and +were buried in the same grave, and which intimate that one died +of a fever, and the other of a dropsy:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Surrepuit natum Febris, matrem abstulit +Hydrops,<br /> +Igne Prior Fatis, Altera cepit Aqua.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>As the city itself stands in a vale on the bank, and at the +conjunction of two small rivers, so the country rising every way, +but just as the course of the water keeps the valley open, you +must necessarily, as you go out of the gates, go uphill every +way; but when once ascended, you come to the most charming plains +and most pleasant country of that kind in England; which +continues with very small intersections of rivers and valleys for +above fifty miles, as shall appear in the sequel of this +journey.</p> +<p>At the west gate of this city was anciently a castle, known to +be so by the ruins more than by any extraordinary notice taken of +it in history. What they say of it, that the Saxon kings +kept their court here, is doubtful, and must be meant of the West +Saxons only. And as to the tale of King Arthur’s +Round Table, which they pretend was kept here for him and his two +dozen of knights (which table hangs up still, as a piece of +antiquity to the tune of twelve hundred years, and has, as they +pretend, the names of the said knights in Saxon characters, and +yet such as no man can read), all this story I see so little +ground to give the least credit to that I look upon it, and it +shall please you, to be no better than a fib.</p> +<p>Where this castle stood, or whatever else it was (for some say +there was no castle there), the late King Charles II. marked out +a very noble design, which, had he lived, would certainly have +made that part of the country the Newmarket of the ages to come; +for the country hereabout far excels that of Newmarket Heath for +all kinds of sport and diversion fit for a prince, nobody can +dispute. And as the design included a noble palace +(sufficient, like Windsor, for a summer residence of the whole +court), it would certainly have diverted the king from his +cursory journeys to Newmarket.</p> +<p>The plan of this house has received several alterations, and +as it is never like to be finished, it is scarce worth recording +the variety. The building is begun, and the front next the +city carried up to the roof and covered, but the remainder is not +begun. There was a street of houses designed from the gate +of the palace down to the town, but it was never begun to be +built; the park marked out was exceeding large, near ten miles in +circumference, and ended west upon the open Downs, in view of the +town of Stockbridge.</p> +<p>This house was afterwards settled, with a royal revenue also, +as an appanage (established by Parliament) upon Prince George of +Denmark for his life, in case he had out-lived the queen; but his +Royal Highness dying before her Majesty, all hope of seeing this +design perfected, or the house finished, is now vanished.</p> +<p>I cannot omit that there are several public edifices in this +city and in the neighbourhood, as the hospitals and the building +adjoining near the east gate; and towards the north a piece of an +old monastery undemolished, and which is still preserved to the +religion, being the residence of some private Roman Catholic +gentlemen, where they have an oratory, and, as they say, live +still according to the rules of St. Benedict. This building +is called Hide House; and as they live very usefully, and to the +highest degree obliging among their neighbours, they meet with no +obstruction or disturbance from anybody.</p> +<p>Winchester is a place of no trade other than is naturally +occasioned by the inhabitants of the city and neighbouring +villages one with another. Here is no manufacture, no +navigation; there was indeed an attempt to make the river +navigable from Southampton, and it was once made practicable, but +it never answered the expense so as to give encouragement to the +undertakers.</p> +<p>Here is a great deal of good company, and abundance of gentry +being in the neighbourhood, it adds to the sociableness of the +place. The clergy also here are, generally speaking, very +rich and very numerous.</p> +<p>As there is such good company, so they are gotten into that +new-fashioned way of conversing by assemblies. I shall do +no more than mention them here; they are pleasant and agreeable +to the young peoples, and sometimes fatal to them, of which, in +its place, Winchester has its share of the mirth. May it +escape the ill-consequences!</p> +<p>The hospital on the south of this city, at a mile distant on +the road to Southampton, is worth notice. It is said to be +founded by King William Rufus, but was not endowed or appointed +till later times by Cardinal Beaufort. Every traveller that +knocks at the door of this house in his way, and asks for it, +claims the relief of a piece of white bread and a cup of beer, +and this donation is still continued. A quantity of good +beer is set apart every day to be given away, and what is left is +distributed to other poor, but none of it kept to the next +day.</p> +<p>How the revenues of this hospital, which should maintain the +master and thirty private gentlemen (whom they call Fellows, but +ought to call Brothers), is now reduced to maintain only +fourteen, while the master lives in a figure equal to the best +gentleman in the country, would be well worth the inquiry of a +proper visitor, if such can be named. It is a thing worthy +of complaint when public charities, designed for the relief of +the poor, are embezzled and depredated by the rich, and turned to +the support of luxury and pride.</p> +<p>From Winchester is about twenty-five miles, and over the most +charming plains that can anywhere be seen (far, in my opinion, +excelling the plains of Mecca), we come to Salisbury. The +vast flocks of sheep which one everywhere sees upon these Downs, +and the great number of those flocks, is a sight truly worth +observation; it is ordinary for these flocks to contain from +three thousand to five thousand in a flock, and several private +farmers hereabouts have two or three such flocks.</p> +<p>But it is more remarkable still how a great part of these +Downs comes, by a new method of husbandry, to be not only made +arable (which they never were in former days), but to bear +excellent wheat, and great crops, too, though otherwise poor +barren land, and never known to our ancestors to be capable of +any such thing—nay, they would perhaps have laughed at any +one that would have gone about to plough up the wild downs and +hills where the sheep were wont to go. But experience has +made the present age wiser and more skilful in husbandry; for by +only folding the sheep upon the ploughed lands—those lands +which otherwise are barren, and where the plough goes within +three or four inches of the solid rock of chalk, are made +fruitful and bear very good wheat, as well as rye and +barley. I shall say more of this when I come to speak of +the same practice farther in the country.</p> +<p>This plain country continues in length from Winchester to +Salisbury (twenty-five miles), from thence to Dorchester +(twenty-two miles), thence to Weymouth (six miles); so that they +lie near fifty miles in length and breadth; they reach also in +some places thirty-five to forty miles. They who would make +any practicable guess at the number of sheep usually fed on these +Downs may take it from a calculation made, as I was told, at +Dorchester, that there were six hundred thousand sheep fed within +six miles of that town, measuring every way round and the town in +the centre.</p> +<p>As we passed this plain country, we saw a great many old +camps, as well Roman as British, and several remains of the +ancient inhabitants of this kingdom, and of their wars, battles, +entrenchments, encampments, buildings, and other fortifications, +which are indeed very agreeable to a traveller that has read +anything of the history of the country. Old Sarum is as +remarkable as any of these, where there is a double entrenchment, +with a deep graff or ditch to either of them; the area about one +hundred yards in diameter, taking in the whole crown of the hill, +and thereby rendering the ascent very difficult. Near this +there is one farm-house, which is all the remains I could see of +any town in or near the place (for the encampment has no +resemblance of a town), and yet this is called the borough of Old +Sarum, and sends two members to Parliament. Whom those +members can justly say they represent would be hard for them to +answer.</p> +<p>Some will have it that the old city of <i>Sorbiodunum</i> or +Salisbury stood here, and was afterwards (for I know not what +reasons) removed to the low marshy grounds among the rivers, +where it now stands. But as I see no authority for it other +than mere tradition, I believe my share of it, and take it <i>ad +referendum</i>.</p> +<p>Salisbury itself is indeed a large and pleasant city, though I +do not think it at all the pleasanter for that which they boast +so much of—namely, the water running through the middle of +every street—or that it adds anything to the beauty of the +place, but just the contrary; it keeps the streets always dirty, +full of wet and filth and weeds, even in the middle of +summer.</p> +<p>The city is placed upon the confluence of two large rivers, +the Avon and the Willy, neither of them considerable rivers, but +very large when joined together, and yet larger when they receive +a third river (viz., the Naddir), which joins them near Clarendon +Park, about three miles below the city; then, with a deep channel +and a current less rapid, they run down to Christchurch, which is +their port. And where they empty themselves into the sea, +from that town upwards towards Salisbury they are made navigable +to within two miles, and might be so quite into the city, were it +not for the strength of the stream.</p> +<p>As the city of Winchester is a city without trade—that +is to say, without any particular manufactures—so this city +of Salisbury and all the county of Wilts, of which it is the +capital, are full of a great variety of manufactures, and those +some of the most considerable in England—namely, the +clothing trade and the trade of flannels, druggets, and several +other sorts of manufactures, of which in their order.</p> +<p>The city of Salisbury has two remarkable manufactures carried +on in it, and which employ the poor of great part of the country +round—namely, fine flannels, and long-cloths for the Turkey +trade, called Salisbury whites. The people of Salisbury are +gay and rich, and have a flourishing trade; and there is a great +deal of good manners and good company among them—I mean, +among the citizens, besides what is found among the gentlemen; +for there are many good families in Salisbury besides the +citizens.</p> +<p>This society has a great addition from the Close—that is +to say, the circle of ground walled in adjacent to the cathedral; +in which the families of the prebendaries and commons, and others +of the clergy belonging to the cathedral, have their houses, as +is usual in all cities, where there are cathedral churches. +These are so considerable here, and the place so large, that it +is (as it is called in general) like another city.</p> +<p>The cathedral is famous for the height of its spire, which is +without exception the highest and the handsomest in England, +being from the ground 410 feet, and yet the walls so exceeding +thin that at the upper part of the spire, upon a view made by the +late Sir Christopher Wren, the wall was found to be less than +five inches thick; upon which a consultation was had whether the +spire, or at least the upper part of it, should be taken down, it +being supposed to have received some damage by the great storm in +the year 1703; but it was resolved in the negative, and Sir +Christopher ordered it to be so strengthened with bands of iron +plates as has effectually secured it; and I have heard some of +the best architects say it is stronger now than when it was first +built.</p> +<p>They tell us here long stories of the great art used in laying +the first foundation of this church, the ground being marshy and +wet, occasioned by the channels of the rivers; that it was laid +upon piles, according to some, and upon woolpacks, according to +others. But this is not supposed by those who know that the +whole country is one rock of chalk, even from the tops of the +highest hills to the bottom of the deepest rivers.</p> +<p>They tell us this church was forty years a-building, and cost +an immense sum of money; but it must be acknowledged that the +inside of the work is not answerable in the decoration of things +to the workmanship without. The painting in the choir is +mean, and more like the ordinary method of common drawing-room or +tavern painting than that of a church; the carving is good, but +very little of it; and it is rather a fine church than finely set +off.</p> +<p>The ordinary boast of this building (that there were as many +gates as months, as many windows as days, as many marble pillars +as hours in the year) is now no recommendation at all. +However, the mention of it must be preserved:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“As many days as in one year there be,<br /> +So many windows in one church we see;<br /> +As many marble pillars there appear<br /> +As there are hours throughout the fleeting year;<br /> +As many gates as moons one year do view:<br /> +Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>There are, however, some very fine monuments in this church; +particularly one belonging to the noble family of Seymours, since +Dukes of Somerset (and ancestors of the present flourishing +family), which on a most melancholy occasion has been now lately +opened again to receive the body of the late Duchess of Somerset, +the happy consort for almost forty years of his Grace the present +Duke, and only daughter and heiress of the ancient and noble +family of Percy, Earls of Northumberland, whose great estate she +brought into the family of Somerset, who now enjoy it.</p> +<p>With her was buried at the same time her Grace’s +daughter the Marchioness of Caermarthen (being married to the +Marquis of Caermarthen, son and heir-apparent to the Lord of +Leeds), who died for grief at the loss of the duchess her mother, +and was buried with her; also her second son, the Duke Percy +Somerset, who died a few months before, and had been buried in +the Abbey church of Westminster, but was ordered to be removed +and laid here with the ancestors of his house. And I hear +his Grace designs to have a yet more magnificent monument erected +in this cathedral for them, just by the other which is there +already.</p> +<p>How the Dukes of Somerset came to quit this church for their +burying-place, and be laid in Westminster Abbey, that I know not; +but it is certain that the present Duke has chosen to have his +family laid here with their ancestors, and to that end has caused +the corpse of his son, the Lord Percy, as above, and one of his +daughters, who had been buried in the Abbey, to be removed and +brought down to this vault, which lies in that they call the +Virgin Mary’s Chapel, behind the altar. There is, as +above, a noble monument for a late Duke and Duchess of Somerset +in the place already, with their portraits at full-length, their +heads lying upon cushions, the whole perfectly well wrought in +fine polished Italian marble, and their sons kneeling by +them. Those I suppose to be the father of the great Duke of +Somerset, uncle to King Edward IV.; but after this the family lay +in Westminster Abbey, where there is also a fine monument for +that very duke who was beheaded by Edward VI., and who was the +great patron of the Reformation.</p> +<p>Among other monuments of noble men in this cathedral they show +you one that is very extraordinary, and to which there hangs a +tale. There was in the reign of Philip and Mary a very +unhappy murder committed by the then Lord Sturton, or Stourton, a +family since extinct, but well known till within a few years in +that country.</p> +<p>This Lord Stourton being guilty of the said murder, which also +was aggravated with very bad circumstances, could not obtain the +usual grace of the Crown (viz., to be beheaded), but Queen Mary +positively ordered that, like a common malefactor, he should die +at the gallows. After he was hanged, his friends desiring +to have him buried at Salisbury, the bishop would not consent +that he should be buried in the cathedral unless, as a farther +mark of infamy, his friends would submit to this +condition—viz., that the silken halter in which he was +hanged should be hanged up over his grave in the church as a +monument of his crime; which was accordingly done, and there it +is to be seen to this day.</p> +<p>The putting this halter up here was not so wonderful to me as +it was that the posterity of that lord, who remained in good rank +some time after, should never prevail to have that mark of infamy +taken off from the memory of their ancestor.</p> +<p>There are several other monuments in this cathedral, as +particularly of two noblemen of ancient families in +Scotland—one of the name of Hay, and one of the name of +Gordon; but they give us nothing of their history, so that we +must be content to say there they lie, and that is all.</p> +<p>The cloister, and the chapter-house adjoining to the church, +are the finest here of any I have seen in England; the latter is +octagon, or eight-square, and is 150 feet in its circumference; +the roof bearing all upon one small marble pillar in the centre, +which you may shake with your hand; and it is hardly to be +imagined it can be any great support to the roof, which makes it +the more curious (it is not indeed to be matched, I believe, in +Europe).</p> +<p>From hence directing my course to the seaside in pursuit of my +first design—viz., of viewing the whole coast of +England—I left the great road and went down the east side +of the river towards New Forest and Lymington; and here I saw the +ancient house and seat of Clarendon, the mansion of the ancient +family of Hide, ancestors of the great Earl of Clarendon, and +from whence his lordship was honoured with that title, or the +house erected into an honour in favour of his family.</p> +<p>But this being a large county, and full of memorable branches +of antiquity and modern curiosity, I cannot quit my observations +so soon. But being happily fixed, by the favour of a +particular friend, at so beautiful a spot of ground as this of +Clarendon Park, I made several little excursions from hence to +view the northern parts of this county—a county so fruitful +of wonders that, though I do not make antiquity my chief search, +yet I must not pass it over entirely, where so much of it, and so +well worth observation, is to be found, which would look as if I +either understood not the value of the study, or expected my +readers should be satisfied with a total omission of it.</p> +<p>I have mentioned that this county is generally a vast +continued body of high chalky hills, whose tops spread themselves +into fruitful and pleasant downs and plains, upon which great +flocks of sheep are fed, &c. But the reader is desired +to observe these hills and plains are most beautifully +intersected and cut through by the course of divers pleasant and +profitable rivers; in the course and near the banks of which +there always is a chain of fruitful meadows and rich pastures, +and those interspersed with innumerable pleasant towns, villages, +and houses, and among them many of considerable magnitude. +So that, while you view the downs, and think the country wild and +uninhabited, yet when you come to descend into these vales you +are surprised with the most pleasant and fertile country in +England.</p> +<p>There are no less than four of these rivers, which meet all +together at or near the city of Salisbury; especially the waters +of three of them run through the streets of the city—the +Nadder and the Willy and the Avon—and the course of these +three lead us through the whole mountainous part of the +county. The two first join their waters at Wilton, the +shiretown, though a place of no great notice now; and these are +the waters which run through the canal and the gardens of Wilton +House, the seat of that ornament of nobility and learning, the +Earl of Pembroke.</p> +<p>One cannot be said to have seen anything that a man of +curiosity would think worth seeing in this county, and not have +been at Wilton House; but not the beautiful building, not the +ancient trophy of a great family, not the noble situation, not +all the pleasures of the gardens, parks, fountains, hare-warren, +or of whatever is rare either in art or nature, are equal to that +yet more glorious sight of a noble princely palace constantly +filled with its noble and proper inhabitants. The lord and +proprietor, who is indeed a true patriarchal monarch, reigns here +with an authority agreeable to all his subjects (family); and his +reign is made agreeable, by his first practising the most +exquisite government of himself, and then guiding all under him +by the rules of honour and virtue, being also himself perfectly +master of all the needful arts of family government—I mean, +needful to make that government both easy and pleasant to those +who are under it, and who therefore willingly, and by choice, +conform to it.</p> +<p>Here an exalted genius is the instructor, a glorious example +the guide, and a gentle well-directed hand the governor and +law-giver to the whole; and the family, like a well-governed +city, appears happy, flourishing, and regular, groaning under no +grievance, pleased with what they enjoy, and enjoying everything +which they ought to be pleased with.</p> +<p>Nor is the blessing of this noble resident extended to the +family only, but even to all the country round, who in their +degree feel the effects of the general beneficence, and where the +neighbourhood (however poor) receive all the good they can +expect, and are sure to have no injury or oppression.</p> +<p>The canal before the house lies parallel with the road, and +receives into it the whole river Willy, or at least is able to do +so; it may, indeed, be said that the river is made into a +canal. When we come into the courtyards before the house +there are several pieces of antiquity to entertain the curious, +as particularly a noble column of porphyry, with a marble statue +of Venus on the top of it. In Italy, and especially at Rome +and Naples, we see a great variety of fine columns, and some of +them of excellent workmanship and antiquity; and at some of the +courts of the princes of Italy the like is seen, as especially at +the court of Florence; but in England I do not remember to have +seen anything like this, which, as they told me, is +two-and-thirty feet high, and of excellent workmanship, and that +it came last from Candia, but formerly from Alexandria. +What may belong to the history of it any further, I suppose is +not known—at least, they could tell me no more of it who +showed it me.</p> +<p>On the left of the court was formerly a large grotto and +curious water-works; and in a house, or shed, or part of the +building, which opened with two folding-doors, like a +coach-house, a large equestrian statue of one of the ancestors of +the family in complete armour, as also another of a Roman Emperor +in brass. But the last time I had the curiosity to see this +house, I missed that part; so that I supposed they were +removed.</p> +<p>As the present Earl of Pembroke, the lord of this fine palace, +is a nobleman of great personal merit many other ways, so he is a +man of learning and reading beyond most men of his +lordship’s high rank in this nation, if not in the world; +and as his reading has made him a master of antiquity, and judge +of such pieces of antiquity as he has had opportunity to meet +with in his own travels and otherwise in the world, so it has +given him a love of the study, and made him a collector of +valuable things, as well in painting as in sculpture, and other +excellences of art, as also of nature; insomuch that Wilton House +is now a mere museum or a chamber of rarities, and we meet with +several things there which are to be found nowhere else in the +world.</p> +<p>As his lordship is a great collector of fine paintings, so I +know no nobleman’s house in England so prepared, as if +built on purpose, to receive them; the largest and the finest +pieces that can be imagined extant in the world might have found +a place here capable to receive them. I say, they +“might have found,” as if they could not now, which +is in part true; for at present the whole house is so completely +filled that I see no room for any new piece to crowd in without +displacing some other fine piece that hung there before. As +for the value of the piece that might so offer to succeed the +displaced, that the great judge of the whole collection, the earl +himself, must determine; and as his judgment is perfectly good, +the best picture would be sure to possess the place. In a +word, here is without doubt the best, if not the greatest, +collection of rarities and paintings that are to be seen together +in any one nobleman’s or gentleman’s house in +England. The piece of our Saviour washing His +disciples’ feet, which they show you in one of the first +rooms you go into, must be spoken of by everybody that has any +knowledge of painting, and is an admirable piece indeed.</p> +<p>You ascend the great staircase at the upper end of the hall, +which is very large; at the foot of the staircase you have a +Bacchus as large as life, done in fine Peloponnesian marble, +carrying a young Bacchus on his arm, the young one eating grapes, +and letting you see by his countenance that he is pleased with +the taste of them. Nothing can be done finer, or more +lively represent the thing intended—namely, the gust of the +appetite, which if it be not a passion, it is an affection which +is as much seen in the countenance, perhaps more than any +other. One ought to stop every two steps of this staircase, +as we go up, to contemplate the vast variety of pictures that +cover the walls, and of some of the best masters in Europe; and +yet this is but an introduction to what is beyond them.</p> +<p>When you are entered the apartments, such variety seizes you +every way that you scarce know to which hand to turn +yourself. First on one side you see several rooms filled +with paintings as before, all so curious, and the variety such, +that it is with reluctance that you can turn from them; while +looking another way you are called off by a vast collection of +busts and pieces of the greatest antiquity of the kind, both +Greek and Romans; among these there is one of the Roman emperor +Marcus Aurelius in basso-relievo. I never saw anything like +what appears here, except in the chamber of rarities at Munich in +Bavaria.</p> +<p>Passing these, you come into several large rooms, as if +contrived for the reception of the beautiful guests that take +them up; one of these is near seventy feet long, and the ceiling +twenty-six feet high, with another adjoining of the same height +and breadth, but not so long. Those together might be +called the Great Gallery of Wilton, and might vie for paintings +with the Gallery of Luxembourg, in the Faubourg of Paris.</p> +<p>These two rooms are filled with the family pieces of the house +of Herbert, most of them by Lilly or Vandyke; and one in +particular outdoes all that I ever met with, either at home or +abroad; it is done, as was the mode of painting at that time, +after the manner of a family piece of King Charles I., with his +queen and children, which before the burning of Whitehall I +remember to hang at the east end of the Long Gallery in the +palace.</p> +<p>This piece fills the farther end of the great room which I +just now mentioned; it contains the Earl of Montgomery, ancestor +of the house of Herbert (not then Earls of Pembroke) and his +lady, sitting, and as big as life; there are about them their own +five sons and one daughter, and their daughter-in-law, who was +daughter of the Duke of Buckingham, married to the elder Lord +Herbert, their eldest son. It is enough to say of this +piece, it is worth the labour of any lover of art to go five +hundred miles to see it; and I am informed several gentlemen of +quality have come from France almost on purpose. It would +be endless to describe the whole set of the family pictures which +take up this room, unless we would enter into the roof-tree of +the family, and set down a genealogical line of the whole +house.</p> +<p>After we have seen this fine range of beauties—for such, +indeed, they are—far from being at an end of your surprise, +you have three or four rooms still upon the same floor, filled +with wonders as before. Nothing can be finer than the +pictures themselves, nothing more surprising than the number of +them. At length you descend the back stairs, which are in +themselves large, though not like the other. However, not a +hand’s-breadth is left to crowd a picture in of the +smallest size; and even the upper rooms, which might be called +garrets, are not naked, but have some very good pieces in +them.</p> +<p>Upon the whole, the genius of the noble collector may be seen +in this glorious collection, than which, take them together, +there is not a finer in any private hand in Europe, and in no +hand at all in Britain, private or public.</p> +<p>The gardens are on the south of the house, and extend +themselves beyond the river, a branch of which runs through one +part of them, and still south of the gardens in the great park, +which, extending beyond the vale, mounts the hill opening at the +last to the great down, which is properly called, by way of +distinction, Salisbury Plain, and leads from the city of +Salisbury to Shaftesbury. Here also his lordship has a +hare-warren, as it is called, though improperly. It has, +indeed, been a sanctuary for the hares for many years; but the +gentlemen complain that it mars their game, for that as soon as +they put up a hare for their sport, if it be anywhere within two +or three miles, away she runs for the warren, and there is an end +of their pursuit; on the other hand, it makes all the countrymen +turn poachers, and destroy the hares by what means they +can. But this is a smaller matter, and of no great import +one way or other.</p> +<p>From this pleasant and agreeable day’s work I returned +to Clarendon, and the next day took another short tour to the +hills to see that celebrated piece of antiquity, the wonderful +Stonehenge, being six miles from Salisbury, north, and upon the +side of the River Avon, near the town of Amesbury. It is +needless that I should enter here into any part of the dispute +about which our learned antiquaries have so puzzled themselves +that several books (and one of them in folio) have been published +about it; some alleging it to be a heathen or pagan temple and +altar, or place of sacrifice, as Mr. Jones; others a monument or +trophy of victory; others a monument for the dead, as Mr. Aubrey, +and the like. Again, some will have it be British, some +Danish, some Saxon, some Roman, and some, before them all, +Phoenician.</p> +<p>I shall suppose it, as the majority of all writers do, to be a +monument for the dead, and the rather because men’s bones +have been frequently dug up in the ground near them. The +common opinion that no man could ever count them, that a baker +carried a basket of bread and laid a loaf upon every stone, and +yet never could make out the same number twice, this I take as a +mere country fiction, and a ridiculous one too. The reason +why they cannot easily be told is that many of them lie half or +part buried in the ground; and a piece here and a piece there +only appearing above the grass, it cannot be known easily which +belong to one stone and which to another, or which are separate +stones, and which are joined underground to one another; +otherwise, as to those which appear, they are easy to be told, +and I have seen them told four times after one another, beginning +every time at a different place, and every time they amounted to +seventy-two in all; but then this was counting every piece of a +stone of bulk which appeared above the surface of the earth, and +was not evidently part of and adjoining to another, to be a +distinct and separate body or stone by itself.</p> +<p>The form of this monument is not only described but delineated +in most authors, and, indeed, it is hard to know the first but by +the last. The figure was at first circular, and there were +at least four rows or circles within one another. The main +stones were placed upright, and they were joined on the top by +cross-stones, laid from one to another, and fastened with vast +mortises and tenons. Length of time has so decayed them +that not only most of the cross-stones which lay on the top are +fallen down, but many of the upright also, notwithstanding the +weight of them is so prodigious great. How they came +thither, or from whence (no stones of that kind being now to be +found in that part of England near it) is still the mystery, for +they are of such immense bulk that no engines or carriages which +we have in use in this age could stir them.</p> +<p>Doubtless they had some method in former days in foreign +countries, as well as here, to move heavier weights than we find +practicable now. How else did Solomon’s workmen build +the battlement or additional wall to support the precipice of +Mount Moriah, on which the Temple was built, which was all built +of stones of Parian marble, each stone being forty cubits long +and fourteen cubits broad, and eight cubits high or thick, which, +reckoning each cubit at two feet and a half of our measure (as +the learned agree to do), was one hundred feet long, thirty-five +feet broad, and twenty feet thick?</p> +<p>These stones at Stonehenge, as Mr. Camden describes them, and +in which others agree, were very large, though not so +large—the upright stones twenty-four feet high, seven feet +broad, sixteen feet round, and weigh twelve tons each; and the +cross-stones on the top, which he calls coronets, were six or +seven tons. But this does not seem equal; for if the +cross-stones weighed six or seven tons, the others, as they +appear now, were at least five or six times as big, and must +weigh in proportion; and therefore I must think their judgment +much nearer the case who judge the upright stones at sixteen tons +or thereabouts (supposing them to stand a great way into the +earth, as it is not doubted but they do), and the coronets or +cross-stones at about two tons, which is very large too, and as +much as their bulk can be thought to allow.</p> +<p>Upon the whole, we must take them as our ancestors have +done—namely, for an erection or building so ancient that no +history has handed down to us the original. As we find it, +then, uncertain, we must leave it so. It is indeed a +reverend piece of antiquity, and it is a great loss that the true +history of it is not known. But since it is not, I think +the making so many conjectures at the reality, when they know +lots can but guess at it, and, above all, the insisting so long +and warmly on their private opinions, is but amusing themselves +and us with a doubt, which perhaps lies the deeper for their +search into it.</p> +<p>The downs and plains in this part of England being so open, +and the surface so little subject to alteration, there are more +remains of antiquity to be seen upon them than in other +places. For example, I think they tell us there are +three-and-fifty ancient encampments or fortifications to be seen +in this one county—some whereof are exceeding plain to be +seen; some of one form, some of another; some of one nation, some +of another—British, Danish, Saxon, Roman—as at Ebb +Down, Burywood, Oldburgh Hill, Cummerford, Roundway Down, St. +Ann’s Hill, Bratton Castle, Clay Hill, Stournton Park, +Whitecole Hill, Battlebury, Scrathbury, Tanesbury, Frippsbury, +Southbury Hill, Amesbury, Great Bodwin, Easterley, Merdon, +Aubery, Martenscil Hill, Barbury Castle, and many more.</p> +<p>Also the barrows, as we all agree to call them, are very many +in number in this county, and very obvious, having suffered very +little decay. These are large hillocks of earth cast up, as +the ancients agree, by the soldiers over the bodies of their dead +comrades slain in battle; several hundreds of these are to be +seen, especially in the north part of this county, about +Marlborough and the downs, from thence to St. Ann’s Hill, +and even every way the downs are full of them.</p> +<p>I have done with matters of antiquity for this county, unless +you will admit me to mention the famous Parliament in the reign +of Henry II. held at Clarendon, where I am now writing, and +another intended to be held there in Richard II.’s time, +but prevented by the barons, being then up in arms against the +king.</p> +<p>Near this place, at Farlo, was the birthplace of the late Sir +Stephen Fox, and where the town, sharing in his good fortune, +shows several marks of his bounty, as particularly the building a +new church from the foundation, and getting an Act of Parliament +passed for making it parochial, it being but a chapel-of-ease +before to an adjoining parish. Also Sir Stephen built and +endowed an almshouse here for six poor women, with a master and a +free school. The master is to be a clergyman, and to +officiate in the church—that is to say, is to have the +living, which, including the school, is very sufficient.</p> +<p>I am now to pursue my first design, and shall take the west +part of Wiltshire in my return, where are several things still to +be taken notice of, and some very well worth our stay. In +the meantime I went on to Langborough, a fine seat of my Lord +Colerain, which is very well kept, though the family, it seems, +is not much in this country, having another estate and dwelling +at Tottenham High Cross, near London.</p> +<p>From hence in my way to the seaside I came to New Forest, of +which I have said something already with relation to the great +extent of ground which lies waste, and in which there is so great +a quantity of large timber, as I have spoken of already.</p> +<p>This waste and wild part of the country was, as some record, +laid open and waste for a forest and for game by that violent +tyrant William the Conqueror, and for which purpose he unpeopled +the country, pulled down the houses, and, which was worse, the +churches of several parishes or towns, and of abundance of +villages, turning the poor people out of their habitations and +possessions, and laying all open for his deer. The same +histories likewise record that two of his own blood and +posterity, and particularly his immediate successor William +Rufus, lost their lives in this forest—one, viz., the said +William Rufus, being shot with an arrow directed at a deer which +the king and his company were hunting, and the arrow, glancing on +a tree, changed his course, and struck the king full on the +breast and killed him. This they relate as a just judgment +of God on the cruel devastation made here by the +Conqueror. Be it so or not, as Heaven pleases; but +that the king was so killed is certain, and they show the tree on +which the arrow glanced to this day. In King Charles +II.’s time it was ordered to be surrounded with a pale; but +as great part of the paling is down with age, whether the tree be +really so old or not is to me a great question, the action being +near seven hundred years ago.</p> +<p>I cannot omit to mention here a proposal made a few years ago +to the late Lord Treasurer Godolphin for re-peopling this forest, +which for some reasons I can be more particular in than any man +now left alive, because I had the honour to draw up the scheme +and argue it before that noble lord and some others who were +principally concerned at that time in bringing over—or, +rather, providing for when they were come over—the poor +inhabitants of the Palatinate, a thing in itself commendable, +but, as it was managed, made scandalous to England and miserable +to those poor people.</p> +<p>Some persons being ordered by that noble lord above mentioned +to consider of measures how the said poor people should be +provided for, and whether they could be provided for or no +without injury to the public, the answer was grounded upon this +maxim—that the number of inhabitants is the wealth and +strength of a kingdom, provided those inhabitants were such as by +honest industry applied themselves to live by their labour, to +whatsoever trades or employments they were brought up. In +the next place, it was inquired what employments those poor +people were brought up to. It was answered there were +husbandmen and artificers of all sorts, upon which the proposal +was as follows. New Forest, in Hampshire, was singled out +to be the place:—</p> +<p>Here it was proposed to draw a great square line containing +four thousand acres of land, marking out two large highways or +roads through the centre, crossing both ways, so that there +should be a thousand acres in each division, exclusive of the +land contained in the said cross-roads.</p> +<p>Then it was proposed to send out twenty men and their +families, who should be recommended as honest industrious men, +expert in, or at least capable of being instructed in husbandry, +curing and cultivating of land, breeding and feeding cattle, and +the like. To each of these should be parcelled out, in +equal distributions, two hundred acres of this land, so that the +whole four thousand acres should be fully distributed to the said +twenty families, for which they should have no rent to pay, and +be liable to no taxes but such as provided for their own sick or +poor, repairing their own roads, and the like. This +exemption from rent and taxes to continue for twenty years, and +then to pay each £50 a year to the queen—that is to +say, to the Crown.</p> +<p>To each of these families, whom I would now call farmers, it +was proposed to advance £200 in ready money as a stock to +set them to work; to furnish them with cattle, horses, cows, +hogs, &c.; and to hire and pay labourers to inclose, clear, +and cure the land, which it would be supposed the first year +would not be so much to their advantage as afterwards, allowing +them timber out of the forest to build themselves houses and +barns, sheds and offices, as they should have occasion; also for +carts, waggons, ploughs, harrows, and the like necessary things: +care to be taken that the men and their families went to work +forthwith according to the design.</p> +<p>Thus twenty families would be immediately supplied and +provided for, for there would be no doubt but these families, +with so much land given them gratis, and so much money to work +with, would live very well; but what would this do for the +support of the rest, who were supposed to be, to every twenty +farmers, forty or fifty families of other people (some of one +trade, some of another), with women and children? To this +it was answered that these twenty farmers would, by the +consequence of their own settlements, provide for and employ such +a proportion of others of their own people that, by thus +providing for twenty families in a place, the whole number of +Palatinates would have been provided for, had they been twenty +thousand more in number than they were, and that without being +any burden upon or injury to the people of England; on the +contrary, they would have been an advantage and an addition of +wealth and strength to the nation, and to the country in +particular where they should be thus seated. For +example:—</p> +<p>As soon as the land was marked out, the farmers put in +possession of it, and the money given them, they should be +obliged to go to work, in order to their settlement. +Suppose it, then, to be in the spring of the year, when such work +was most proper. First, all hands would be required to +fence and part off the land, and clear it of the timber or +bushes, or whatever else was upon it which required to be +removed. The first thing, therefore, which the farmer would +do would be to single out from the rest of their number every one +three servants—that is to say, two men and a maid; less +could not answer the preparations they would be obliged to make, +and yet work hard themselves also. By the help of these +they would, with good management, soon get so much of their land +cured, fenced-off, ploughed, and sowed as should yield them a +sufficiency of corn and kitchen stuff the very first year, both +for horse-meat, hog-meat, food for the family, and some to carry +to market, too, by which to bring in money to go farther on, as +above.</p> +<p>At the first entrance they were to have the tents allowed them +to live in, which they then had from the Tower; but as soon as +leisure and conveniences admitted, every farmer was obliged to +begin to build him a farm-house, which he would do gradually, +some and some, as he could spare time from his other works, and +money from his little stock.</p> +<p>In order to furnish himself with carts, waggons, ploughs, +harrows, wheel-barrows, hurdles, and all such necessary utensils +of husbandry, there would be an absolute necessity of +wheelwrights or cartwrights, one at least to each division.</p> +<p>Thus, by the way, there would be employed three servants to +each farmer, that makes sixty persons.</p> +<p>Four families of wheelwrights, one to each +division—which, suppose five in a family, makes twenty +persons. Suppose four head-carpenters, with each three men; +and as at first all would be building together, they would to +every house building have at least one labourer. Four +families of carpenters, five to each family, and three servants, +is thirty-two persons; one labourer to each house building is +twenty persons more.</p> +<p>Thus here would be necessarily brought together in the very +first of the work one hundred and thirty-two persons, besides the +head-farmers, who at five also to each family are one hundred +more; in all, two hundred and thirty-two.</p> +<p>For the necessary supply of these with provisions, clothes, +household stuff, &c. (for all should be done among +themselves), first, they must have at least four butchers with +their families (twenty persons), four shoemakers with their +families and each shoemaker two journeymen (for every trade would +increase the number of customers to every trade). This is +twenty-eight persons more.</p> +<p>They would then require a hatmaker, a glover, at least two +ropemakers, four tailors, three weavers of woollen and three +weavers of linen, two basket-makers, two common brewers, ten or +twelve shop-keepers to furnish chandlery and grocery wares, and +as many for drapery and mercery, over and above what they could +work. This makes two-and-forty families more, each at five +in a family, which, is two hundred and ten persons; all the +labouring part of these must have at least two servants (the +brewers more), which I cast up at forty more.</p> +<p>Add to these two ministers, one clerk, one sexton or +grave-digger, with their families, two physicians, three +apothecaries, two surgeons (less there could not be, only that +for the beginning it might be said the physicians should be +surgeons, and I take them so); this is forty-five persons, +besides servants; so that, in short—to omit many tradesmen +more who would be wanted among them—there would necessarily +and voluntarily follow to these twenty families of farmers at +least six hundred more of their own people.</p> +<p>It is no difficult thing to show that the ready money of +£4,000 which the Government was to advance to those twenty +farmers would employ and pay, and consequently subsist, all these +numerous dependants in the works which must severally be done for +them for the first year, after which the farmers would begin to +receive their own money back again; for all these tradesmen must +come to their own market to buy corn, flesh, milk, butter, +cheese, bacon, &c., which after the first year the farmers, +having no rent to pay, would have to spare sufficiently, and so +take back their own money with advantage. I need not go on +to mention how, by consequence provisions increasing and money +circulating, this town should increase in a very little time.</p> +<p>It was proposed also that for the encouragement of all the +handicraftsmen and labouring poor who, either as servants or as +labourers for day-work, assisted the farmers or other tradesmen, +they should have every man three acres of ground given them, with +leave to build cottages upon the same, the allotments to be upon +the waste at the end of the cross-roads where they entered the +town.</p> +<p>In the centre of the square was laid out a circle of twelve +acres of ground, to be cast into streets for inhabitants to build +on as their ability would permit—all that would build to +have ground gratis for twenty years, timber out of the forest, +and convenient yards, gardens, and orchards allotted to every +house.</p> +<p>In the great streets near where they cross each other was to +be built a handsome market-house, with a town-hall for parish or +corporation business, doing justice and the like; also shambles; +and in a handsome part of the ground mentioned to be laid out for +streets, as near the centre as might be, was to be ground laid +out for the building a church, which every man should either +contribute to the building of in money, or give every tenth day +of his time to assist in labouring at the building.</p> +<p>I have omitted many tradesmen who would be wanted here, and +would find a good livelihood among their country-folks only to +get accidental work as day-men or labourers (of which such a town +would constantly employ many), as also poor women for assistance +in families (such as midwives, nurses, &c.).</p> +<p>Adjacent to the town was to be a certain quantity of +common-land for the benefit of the cottages, that the poor might +have a few sheep or cows, as their circumstances required; and +this to be appointed at the several ends of the town.</p> +<p>There was a calculation made of what increase there would be, +both of wealth and people, in twenty years in this town; what a +vast consumption of provisions they would cause, more than the +four thousand acres of land given them would produce, by which +consumption and increase so much advantage would accrue to the +public stock, and so many subjects be added to the many thousands +of Great Britain, who in the next age would be all true-born +Englishmen, and forget both the language and nation from whence +they came. And it was in order to this that two ministers +were appointed, one of which should officiate in English and the +other in High Dutch, and withal to have them obliged by a law to +teach all their children both to speak, read, and write the +English language.</p> +<p>Upon their increase they would also want barbers and glaziers, +painters also, and plumbers; a windmill or two, and the millers +and their families; a fulling-mill and a cloth-worker; as also a +master clothier or two for making a manufacture among them for +their own wear, and for employing the women and children; a dyer +or two for dyeing their manufactures; and, which above all is not +to be omitted, four families at least of smiths, with every one +two servants—considering that, besides all the family work +which continually employs a smith, all the shoeing of horses, all +the ironwork of ploughs, carts, waggons, harrows, &c., must +be wrought by them. There was no allowance made for inns +and ale-houses, seeing it would be frequent that those who kept +public-houses of any sort would likewise have some other +employment to carry on.</p> +<p>This was the scheme for settling the Palatinates, by which +means twenty families of farmers, handsomely set up and +supported, would lay a foundation, as I have said, for six or +seven hundred of the rest of their people; and as the land in New +Forest is undoubtedly good, and capable of improvement by such +cultivation, so other wastes in England are to be found as +fruitful as that; and twenty such villages might have been +erected, the poor strangers maintained, and the nation evidently +be bettered by it. As to the money to be advanced, which in +the case of twenty such settlements, at £1,000 each, would +be £80,000, two things were answered to it:—</p> +<p>1. That the annual rent to be received for all those +lands after twenty years would abundantly pay the public for the +first disburses on the scheme above, that rent being then to +amount to £40,000 per annum.</p> +<p>2. More money than would have done this was expended, or +rather thrown away, upon them here, to keep them in suspense, and +afterwards starve them; sending them a-begging all over the +nation, and shipping them off to perish in other countries. +Where the mistake lay is none of my business to inquire.</p> +<p>I reserved this account for this place, because I passed in +this journey over the very spot where the design was laid +out—namely, near Lyndhurst, in the road from Rumsey to +Lymington, whither I now directed my course.</p> +<p>Lymington is a little but populous seaport standing opposite +to the Isle of Wight, in the narrow part of the strait which +ships sometimes pass through in fair weather, called the Needles; +and right against an ancient town of that island called Yarmouth, +and which, in distinction from the great town of Yarmouth in +Norfolk, is called South Yarmouth. This town of Lymington +is chiefly noted for making fine salt, which is indeed excellent +good; and from whence all these south parts of England are +supplied, as well by water as by land carriage; and sometimes, +though not often, they send salt to London, when, contrary winds +having kept the Northern fleets back, the price at London has +been very high; but this is very seldom and uncertain. +Lymington sends two members to Parliament, and this and her salt +trade is all I can say to her; for though she is very well +situated as to the convenience of shipping I do not find they +have any foreign commerce, except it be what we call smuggling +and roguing; which, I may say, is the reigning commerce of all +this part of the English coast, from the mouth of the Thames to +the Land’s End of Cornwall.</p> +<p>From hence there are but few towns on the sea-coast west, +though there are several considerable rivers empty themselves +into the sea; nor are there any harbours or seaports of any note +except Poole. As for Christchurch, though it stands at the +mouth of the Avon (which, as I have said, comes down from +Salisbury, and brings with it all the waters of the south and +east parts of Wiltshire, and receives also the Stour and Piddle, +two Dorsetshire rivers which bring with them all the waters of +the north part of Dorsetshire), yet it is a very inconsiderable +poor place, scarce worth seeing, and less worth mentioning in +this account, only that it sends two members to Parliament, which +many poor towns in this part of England do, as well as that.</p> +<p>From hence I stepped up into the country north-west, to see +the ancient town of Wimborne, or Wimborneminster; there I found +nothing remarkable but the church, which is indeed a very great +one, ancient, and yet very well built, with a very firm, strong, +square tower, considerably high; but was, without doubt, much +finer, when on the top of it stood a most exquisite +spire—finer and taller, if fame lies not, than that at +Salisbury, and by its situation in a plainer, flatter country +visible, no question, much farther; but this most beautiful +ornament was blown down by a sudden tempest of wind, as they tell +us, in the year 1622.</p> +<p>The church remains a venerable piece of antiquity, and has in +it the remains of a place once much more in request than it is +now, for here are the monuments of several noble families, and in +particular of one king, viz., King Etheldred, who was slain in +battle by the Danes. He was a prince famed for piety and +religion, and, according to the zeal of these times, was esteemed +as a martyr, because, venturing his life against the Danes, who +were heathens, he died fighting for his religion and his +country. The inscription upon his grave is preserved, and +has been carefully repaired, so as to be easily read, and is as +follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In hoc loco quiescit Corpus S. Etheldredi, +Regis West Saxonum, Martyris, qui Anno Dom. DCCCLXXII., xxiii +Aprilis, per Manos Danorum Paganorum Occubuit.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In English thus:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Here rests the Body of Holy Etheldred, King +of the West Saxons, and Martyr, who fell by the Hands of the +Pagan Danes in the Year of our Lord 872, the 23rd of +April.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Here are also the monuments of the great Marchioness of +Exeter, mother of Edward Courtney, Earl of Devonshire, and last +of the family of Courtneys who enjoyed that honour; as also of +John de Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, and his wife, grandmother of +King Henry VII., by her daughter Margaret, Countess of +Richmond.</p> +<p>This last lady I mention because she was foundress of a very +fine free school, which has since been enlarged and had a new +benefactress in Queen Elizabeth, who has enlarged the stipend and +annexed it to the foundation. The famous Cardinal Pole was +Dean of this church before his exaltation.</p> +<p>Having said this of the church, I have said all that is worth +naming of the town; except that the inhabitants, who are many and +poor, are chiefly maintained by the manufacture of knitting +stockings, which employs great part indeed of the county of +Dorset, of which this is the first town eastward.</p> +<p>South of this town, over a sandy, wild, and barren country, we +came to Poole, a considerable seaport, and indeed the most +considerable in all this part of England; for here I found some +ships, some merchants, and some trade; especially, here were a +good number of ships fitted out every year to the Newfoundland +fishing, in which the Poole men were said to have been +particularly successful for many years past.</p> +<p>The town sits in the bottom of a great bay or inlet of the +sea, which, entering at one narrow mouth, opens to a very great +breadth within the entrance, and comes up to the very shore of +this town; it runs also west up almost to the town of Wareham, a +little below which it receives the rivers Frome and Piddle, the +two principal rivers of the county.</p> +<p>This place is famous for the best and biggest oysters in all +this part of England, which the people of Poole pretend to be +famous for pickling; and they are barrelled up here, and sent not +only to London, but to the West Indies, and to Spain and Italy, +and other parts. It is observed more pearls are found in +the Poole oysters, and larger, than in any other oysters about +England.</p> +<p>As the entrance into this large bay is narrow, so it is made +narrower by an island, called Branksey, which, lying the very +mouth of the passage, divides it into two, and where there is an +old castle, called Branksey Castle, built to defend the entrance, +and this strength was very great advantage to the trade of this +port in the time of the late war with France.</p> +<p>Wareham is a neat town and full of people, having a share of +trade with Poole itself; it shows the ruins of a large town, and, +it is apparent, has had eight churches, of which they have three +remaining.</p> +<p>South of Wareham, and between the bay I have mentioned and the +sea, lies a large tract of land which, being surrounded by the +sea except on one side, is called an island, though it is really +what should be called a peninsula. This tract of land is +better inhabited than the sea-coast of this west end of +Dorsetshire generally is, and the manufacture of stockings is +carried on there also; it is called the Isle of Purbeck, and has +in the middle of it a large market-town, called Corfe, and from +the famous castle there the whole town is now called Corfe +Castle; it is a corporation, sending members to Parliament.</p> +<p>This part of the country is eminent for vast quarries of +stone, which is cut out flat, and used in London in great +quantities for paving courtyards, alleys, avenues to houses, +kitchens, footways on the sides of the High Streets, and the +like; and is very profitable to the place, as also in the number +of shipping employed in bringing it to London. There are +also several rocks of very good marble, only that the veins in +the stone are not black and white, as the Italian, but grey, red, +and other colours.</p> +<p>From hence to Weymouth, which is 22 miles, we rode in view of +the sea; the country is open, and in some respects pleasant, but +not like the northern parts of the county, which are all fine +carpet-ground, soft as velvet, and the herbage sweet as garden +herbs, which makes their sheep be the best in England, if not in +the world, and their wool fine to an extreme.</p> +<p>I cannot omit here a small adventure which was very surprising +to me on this journey; passing this plain country, we came to an +open piece of ground where a neighbouring gentleman had at a +great expense laid out a proper piece of land for a decoy, or +duck-coy, as some call it. The works were but newly done, +the planting young, the ponds very large and well made; but the +proper places for shelter of the fowl not covered, the trees not +being grown, and men were still at work improving and enlarging +and planting on the adjoining heath or common. Near the +decoy-keeper’s house were some places where young decoy +ducks were hatched, or otherwise kept to fit them for their +work. To preserve them from vermin (polecats, kites, and +such like), they had set traps, as is usual in such cases, and a +gibbet by it, where abundance of such creatures as were taken +were hanged up for show.</p> +<p>While the decoy-man was busy showing the new works, he was +alarmed with a great cry about this house for “Help! +help!” and away he ran like the wind, guessing, as we +supposed, that something was catched in the trap.</p> +<p>It was a good big boy, about thirteen or fourteen years old, +that cried out, for coming to the place he found a great fowl +caught by the leg in the trap, which yet was so strong and so +outrageous that the boy going too near him, he flew at him and +frighted him, bit him, and beat him with his wings, for he was +too strong for the boy; as the master ran from the decoy, so +another manservant ran from the house, and finding a strange +creature fast in the trap, not knowing what it was, laid at him +with a great stick. The creature fought him a good while, +but at length he struck him an unlucky blow which quieted him; +after this we all came up to see what the matter, and found a +monstrous eagle caught by the leg in the trap, and killed by the +fellow’s cudgel, as above.</p> +<p>When the master came to know what it was, and that his man had +killed it, he was ready to kill the fellow for his pains, for it +was a noble creature indeed, and would have been worth a great +deal to the man to have it shown about the country, or to have +sold to any gentleman curious in such things; but the eagle was +dead, and there we left it. It is probable this eagle had +flown over the sea from France, either there or at the Isle of +Wight, where the channel is not so wide; for we do not find that +any eagles are known to breed in those parts of Britain.</p> +<p>From hence we turned up to Dorchester, the county town, though +not the largest town in the county. Dorchester is indeed a +pleasant agreeable town to live in, and where I thought the +people seemed less divided into factions and parties than in +other places; for though here are divisions, and the people are +not all of one mind, either as to religion or politics, yet they +did not seem to separate with so much animosity as in other +places. Here I saw the Church of England clergyman, and the +Dissenting minister or preacher drinking tea together, and +conversing with civility and good neighbourhood, like Catholic +Christians and men of a Catholic and extensive charity. The +town is populous, though not large; the streets broad, but the +buildings old and low. However, there is good company, and +a good deal of it; and a man that coveted a retreat in this world +might as agreeably spend his time and as well in Dorchester as in +any town I know in England.</p> +<p>The downs round this town are exceeding pleasant, and come up +on, every side, even to the very streets’ end; and here it +was that they told me that there were six hundred thousand sheep +fed on the downs within six miles of the town—that is, six +miles every way, which is twelve miles in diameter, and +thirty-six miles in circumference. This, I say, I was +told—I do not affirm it to be true; but when I viewed the +country round, I confess I could not but incline to believe +it.</p> +<p>It is observable of these sheep that they are exceeding +fruitful, the ewes generally bringing two lambs, and they are for +that reason bought by all the farmers through the east part of +England, who come to Burford Fair in this country to buy them, +and carry them into Kent and Surrey eastward, and into +Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire and Oxfordshire north; even our +Banstead Downs in Surrey, so famed for good mutton, is supplied +from this place. The grass or herbage of these downs is +full of the sweetest and the most aromatic plants, such as +nourish the sheep to a strange degree; and the sheep’s +dung, again, nourishes that herbage to a strange degree; so that +the valleys are rendered extremely fruitful by the washing of the +water in hasty showers from off these hills.</p> +<p>An eminent instance of this is seen at Amesbury, in Wiltshire, +the next county to this; for it is the same thing in proportion +over this whole county. I was told that at this town there +was a meadow on the bank of the River Avon, which runs thence to +Salisbury, which was let for £12 a year per acre for the +grass only. This I inquired particularly after at the +place, and was assured by the inhabitants, as one man, that the +fact was true, and was showed the meadows. The grass which +grew on them was such as grew to the length of ten or twelve +feet, rising up to a good height and then taking root again, and +was of so rich a nature as to answer very well such an +extravagant rent.</p> +<p>The reason they gave for this was the extraordinary richness +of the soil, made so, as above, by the falling or washing of the +rains from the hills adjacent, by which, though no other land +thereabouts had such a kind of grass, yet all other meadows and +low grounds of the valley were extremely rich in proportion.</p> +<p>There are abundance of good families, and of very ancient +lines in the neighbourhood of this town of Dorchester, as the +Napiers, the Courtneys, Strangeways, Seymours, Banks, Tregonells, +Sydenhams, and many others, some of which have very great estates +in the county, and in particular Colonel Strangeways, Napier, and +Courtney. The first of these is master of the famous +swannery or nursery of swans, the like of which, I believe, is +not in Europe. I wonder any man should pretend to travel +over this country, and pass by it, too, and then write his +account and take no notice of it.</p> +<p>From Dorchester it is six miles to the seaside south, and the +ocean in view almost all the way. The first town you come +to is Weymouth, or Weymouth and Melcombe, two towns lying at the +mouth of a little rivulet which they call the Wey, but scarce +claims the name of a river. However, the entrance makes a +very good though small harbour, and they are joined by a wooden +bridge; so that nothing but the harbour parts them; yet they are +separate corporations, and choose each of them two members of +Parliament, just as London and Southwark.</p> +<p>Weymouth is a sweet, clean, agreeable town, considering its +low situation, and close to the sea; it is well built, and has a +great many good substantial merchants in it who drive a +considerable trade, and have a good number of ships belonging to +the town. They carry on now, in time of peace, a trade with +France; but, besides this, they trade also to Portugal, Spain, +Newfoundland, and Virginia; and they have a large correspondence +also up in the country for the consumption of their returns; +especially the wine trade and the Newfoundland trade are +considerable here.</p> +<p>Without the harbour is an old castle, called Sandfoot Castle; +and over against them, where there is a good road for ships to +put in on occasions of bad weather, is Portland Castle, and the +road is called Portland Road. While I was here once, there +came a merchant-ship into that road called Portland Road under a +very hard storm of wind; she was homeward bound from Oporto for +London, laden with wines; and as she came in she made signals of +distress to the town, firing guns for help, and the like, as is +usual in such cases; it was in the dark of the night that the +ship came in, and, by the help of her own pilot, found her way +into the road, where she came to an anchor, but, as I say, fired +guns for help.</p> +<p>The venturous Weymouth men went off, even before it was light, +with two boats to see who she was, and what condition she was in; +and found she was come to an anchor, and had struck her topmasts; +but that she had been in bad weather, had lost an anchor and +cable before, and had but one cable to trust to, which did hold +her, but was weak; and as the storm continued to blow, they +expected every hour to go on shore and split to pieces.</p> +<p>Upon this the Weymouth boats came back with such diligence +that in less than three hours they were on board them again with +an anchor and cable, which they immediately bent in its place, +and let go to assist the other, and thereby secured the +ship. It is true that they took a good price of the master +for the help they gave him; for they made him draw a bill on his +owners at London for £12 for the use of the anchor, cable, +and boat, besides some gratuities to the men. But they +saved the ship and cargo by it, and in three or four days the +weather was calm, and he proceeded on his voyage, returning the +anchor and cable again; so that, upon the whole, it was not so +extravagant as at first I thought it to be.</p> +<p>The Isle of Portland, on which the castle I mentioned stands, +lies right against this Port of Weymouth. Hence it is that +our best and whitest freestone comes, with which the Cathedral of +St. Paul’s, the Monument, and all the public edifices in +the City of London are chiefly built; and it is wonderful, and +well worth the observation of a traveller, to see the quarries in +the rocks from whence they are cut out, what stones, and of what +prodigious a size are cut out there.</p> +<p>The island is indeed little more than one continued rock of +freestone, and the height of the land is such that from this +island they see in clear weather above half over the Channel to +France, though the Channel here is very broad. The sea off +of this island, and especially to the west of it, is counted the +most dangerous part of the British Channel. Due south, +there is almost a continued disturbance in the waters, by reason +of what they call two tides meeting, which I take to be no more +than the sets of the currents from the French coast and from the +English shore meeting: this they call Portland Race; and several +ships, not aware of these currents, have been embayed to the west +of Portland, and been driven on shore on the beach (of which I +shall speak presently), and there lost.</p> +<p>To prevent this danger, and guide the mariner in these +distresses, they have within these few months set up two +lighthouses on the two points of that island; and they had not +been many months set up, with the directions given to the public +for their bearings, but we found three outward-bound East India +ships which were in distress in the night, in a hard extreme gale +of wind, were so directed by those lights that they avoided going +on shore by it, which, if the lights had not been there, would +inevitably happened to their destruction.</p> +<p>This island, though seemingly miserable, and thinly inhabited, +yet the inhabitants being almost all stone-cutters, we found +there were no very poor people among them, and when they +collected money for the re-building St. Paul’s, they got +more in this island than in the great town of Dorchester, as we +were told.</p> +<p>Though Portland stands a league off from the mainland of +Britain, yet it is almost joined by a prodigious riff of +beach—that is to say, of small stones cast up by the +sea—which runs from the island so near the shore of England +that they ferry over with a boat and a rope, the water not being +above half a stone’s-throw over; and the said riff of beach +ending, as it were, at that inlet of water, turns away west, and +runs parallel with the shore quite to Abbotsbury, which is a town +about seven miles beyond Weymouth.</p> +<p>I name this for two reasons: first, to explain again what I +said before of ships being embayed and lost here. This is +when ships coming from the westward omit to keep a good offing, +or are taken short by contrary winds, and cannot weather the high +land of Portland, but are driven between Portland and the +mainland. If they can come to an anchor, and ride it out, +well and good; and if not, they run on shore on that vast beach +and are lost without remedy.</p> +<p>On the inside of this beach, and between it and the land, +there is, as I have said, an inlet of water which they ferry +over, as above, to pass and re-pass to and from Portland: this +inlet opens at about two miles west, and grows very broad, and +makes a kind of lake within the land of a mile and a half broad, +and near three miles in length, the breadth unequal. At the +farthest end west of this water is a large duck-coy, and the +verge of the water well grown with wood, and proper groves of +trees for cover for the fowl: in the open lake, or broad part, is +a continual assembly of swans: here they live, feed, and breed, +and the number of them is such that, I believe, I did not see so +few as 7,000 or 8,000. Here they are protected, and here +they breed in abundance. We saw several of them upon the +wing, very high in the air, whence we supposed that they flew +over the riff of beach, which parts the lake from the sea, to +feed on the shores as they thought fit, and so came home again at +their leisure.</p> +<p>From this duck-coy west, the lake narrows, and at last almost +closes, till the beach joins the shore; and so Portland may be +said, not to be an island, but part of the continent. And +now we came to Abbotsbury, a town anciently famous for a great +monastery, and now eminent for nothing but its ruins.</p> +<p>From hence we went on to Bridport, a pretty large corporation +town on the sea-shore, though without a harbour. Here we +saw boats all the way on the shore, fishing for mackerel, which +they take in the easiest manner imaginable; for they fix one end +of the net to a pole set deep into the sand, then, the net being +in a boat, they row right out into the water some length, then +turn and row parallel with the shore, veering out the net all the +while, till they have let go all the net, except the line at the +end, and then the boat rows on shore, when the men, hauling the +net to the shore at both ends, bring to shore with it such fish +as they surrounded in the little way they rowed. This, at +that time, proved to be an incredible number, insomuch that the +men could hardly draw them on shore. As soon as the boats +had brought their fish on shore we observed a guard or watch +placed on the shore in several places, who, we found, had their +eye, not on the fishermen, but on the country people who came +down to the shore to buy their fish; and very sharp we found they +were, and some that came with small carts were obliged to go back +empty without any fish. When we came to inquire into the +particulars of this, we found that these were officers placed on +the shore by the justices and magistrates of the towns about, who +were ordered to prevent the country farmers buying the mackerel +to dung their land with them, which was thought to be dangerous +as to infection. In short, such was the plenty of fish that +year that the mackerel, the finest and largest I ever saw, were +sold at the seaside a hundred for a penny.</p> +<p>From Bridport (a town in which we see nothing remarkable) we +came to Lyme, the town particularly made famous by the landing of +the Duke of Monmouth and his unfortunate troops in the time of +King James II., of which I need say nothing, the history of it +being so recent in the memory of so many living.</p> +<p>This is a town of good figure, and has in it several eminent +merchants who carry on a considerable trade to France, Spain, +Newfoundland, and the Straits; and though they have neither creek +or bay, road or river, they have a good harbour, but it is such a +one as is not in all Britain besides, if there is such a one in +any part of the world.</p> +<p>It is a massy pile of building, consisting of high and thick +walls of stone, raised at first with all the methods that skill +and art could devise, but maintained now with very little +difficulty. The walls are raised in the main sea at a good +distance from the shore; it consists of one main and solid wall +of stone, large enough for carts and carriages to pass on the +top, and to admit houses and warehouses to be built on it, so +that it is broad as a street. Opposite to this, but farther +into the sea, is another wall of the same workmanship, which +crosses the end of the first wall and comes about with a tail +parallel to the first wall.</p> +<p>Between the point of the first or main wall is the entrance +into the port, and the second or opposite wall, breaking the +violence of the sea from the entrance, the ships go into the +basin as into a pier or harbour, and ride there as secure as in a +millpond or as in a wet dock.</p> +<p>The townspeople have the benefit of this wonderful harbour, +and it is carefully kept in repair, as indeed it behoves them to +do; but they could give me nothing of the history of it, nor do +they, as I could perceive, know anything of the original of it, +or who built it. It was lately almost beaten down by a +storm, but is repaired again.</p> +<p>This work is called the Cobb. The Custom House officers +have a lodge and warehouse upon it, and there were several ships +of very good force and rich in value in the basin of it when I +was there. It might be strengthened with a fort, and the +walls themselves are firm enough to carry what guns they please +to plant upon it; but they did not seem to think it needful, and +as the shore is convenient for batteries, they have some guns +planted in proper places, both for the defence of the Cobb and +the town also.</p> +<p>This town is under the government of a mayor and aldermen, and +may pass for a place of wealth, considering the bigness of +it. Here, we found, the merchants began to trade in the +pilchard-fishing, though not to so considerable a degree as they +do farther west—the pilchards seldom coming up so high +eastward as Portland, and not very often so high as Lyme.</p> +<p>It was in sight of these hills that Queen Elizabeth’s +fleet, under the command of the Lord Howard of Effingham (then +Admiral), began first to engage in a close and resolved fight +with the invincible Spanish Armada in 1588, maintaining the +fight, the Spaniards making eastward till they came the length of +Portland Race, where they gave it over—the Spaniards having +received considerable damage, and keeping then closer +together. Off of the same place was a desperate engagement +in the year 1672 between the English and Dutch, in which the +Dutch were worsted and driven over to the coast of France, and +then glad to make home to refit and repair.</p> +<p>While we stayed here some time viewing this town and coast, we +had opportunity to observe the pleasant way of conversation as it +is managed among the gentlemen of this county and their families, +which are, without reflection, some of the most polite and +well-bred people in the isle of Britain. As their +hospitality is very great, and their bounty to the poor +remarkable, so their generous friendly way of living with, +visiting, and associating one with another is as hard to be +described as it is really to be admired; they seem to have a +mutual confidence in and friendship with one another, as if they +were all relations; nor did I observe the sharping, tricking +temper which is too much crept in among the gaming and +horse-racing gentry in some parts of England to be so much known +among them any otherwise than to be abhorred; and yet they +sometimes play, too, and make matches and horse-races, as they +see occasion.</p> +<p>The ladies here do not want the help of assemblies to assist +in matchmaking, or half-pay officers to run away with their +daughters, which the meetings called assemblies in some other +parts of England are recommended for. Here is no Bury Fair, +where the women are scandalously said to carry themselves to +market, and where every night they meet at the play or at the +assembly for intrigue; and yet I observed that the women do not +seem to stick on hand so much in this country as in those +countries where those assemblies are so lately set up—the +reason of which, I cannot help saying, if my opinion may bear any +weight, is that the Dorsetshire ladies are equal in beauty, and +may be superior in reputation. In a word, their reputation +seems here to be better kept, guarded by better conduct, and +managed with more prudence; and yet the Dorsetshire ladies, I +assure you, are not nuns; they do not go veiled about streets, or +hide themselves when visited; but a general freedom of +conversation—agreeable, mannerly, kind, and good—runs +through the whole body of the gentry of both sexes, mixed with +the best of behaviour, and yet governed by prudence and modesty +such as I nowhere see better in all my observation through the +whole isle of Britain. In this little interval also I +visited some of the biggest towns in the north-west part of this +county, as Blandford—a town on the River Stour in the road +between Salisbury and Dorchester—a handsome well-built +town, but chiefly famous for making the finest bone-lace in +England, and where they showed me some so exquisitely fine as I +think I never saw better in Flanders, France, or Italy, and which +they said they rated at above £30 sterling a yard; but I +suppose there was not much of this to be had. But it is +most certain that they make exceeding rich lace in that county, +such as no part of England can equal.</p> +<p>From thence I went west to Stourbridge, vulgarly called +Strabridge. The town and the country around is employed in +the manufacture of stockings, and which was once famous for +making the finest, best, and highest-prize knit stocking in +England; but that trade now is much decayed by the increase of +the knitting-stocking engine or frame, which has destroyed the +hand-knitting trade for fine stockings through the whole kingdom, +of which I shall speak more in its place.</p> +<p>From hence I came to Sherborne, a large and populous town, +with one collegiate or conventual church, and may properly claim +to have more inhabitants in it than any town in Dorsetshire, +though it is neither the county-town, nor does it send members to +Parliament. The church is still a reverend pile, and shows +the face of great antiquity. Here begins the Wiltshire +medley clothing (though this town be in Dorsetshire), of which I +shall speak at large in its place, and therefore I omit any +discourse of it here.</p> +<p>Shaftesbury is also on the edge of this county, adjoining to +Wiltshire and Dorsetshire, being fourteen miles from Salisbury, +over that fine down or carpet ground which they call particularly +or properly Salisbury Plain. It has neither house nor town +in view all the way; and the road, which often lies very broad +and branches off insensibly, might easily cause a traveller to +lose his way. But there is a certain never-failing +assistance upon all these downs for telling a stranger his way, +and that is the number of shepherds feeding or keeping their vast +flocks of sheep which are everywhere in the way, and who with a +very little pains a traveller may always speak with. +Nothing can be like it. The Arcadians’ plains, of +which we read so much pastoral trumpery in the poets, could be +nothing to them.</p> +<p>This Shaftesbury is now a sorry town upon the top of a high +hill, which closes the plain or downs, and whence Nature presents +you a new scene or prospect—viz., of Somerset and +Wiltshire—where it is all enclosed, and grown with woods, +forests, and planted hedge-rows; the country rich, fertile, and +populous; the towns and houses standing thick and being large and +full of inhabitants, and those inhabitants fully employed in the +richest and most valuable manufacture in the world—viz., +the English clothing, as well the medley or mixed clothing as +whites, as well for the home trade as the foreign trade, of which +I shall take leave to be very particular in my return through the +west and north part of Wiltshire in the latter part of this +work.</p> +<p>In my return to my western progress, I passed some little part +of Somersetshire, as through Evil or Yeovil, upon the River Ivil, +in going to which we go down a long steep hill, which they call +Babylon Hill, but from what original I could find none of the +country people to inform me.</p> +<p>This Yeovil is a market-town of good resort; and some clothing +is carried on in and near it, but not much. Its main +manufacture at this time is making of gloves.</p> +<p>It cannot pass my observation here that when we are come this +length from London the dialect of the English tongue, or the +country way of expressing themselves, is not easily +understood—it is so strangely altered. It is true +that it is so in many parts of England besides, but in none in so +gross a degree as in this part. This way of boorish country +speech, as in Ireland it is called the “brogue” upon +the tongue, so here it is called “jouring;” and it is +certain that though the tongue be all mere natural English, yet +those that are but a little acquainted with them cannot +understand one-half of what they say. It is not possible to +explain this fully by writing, because the difference is not so +much in the orthography of words as in the tone and +diction—their abridging the speech, “cham” for +“I am,” “chil” for “I will,” +“don” for “put on,” and +“doff” for “put off,” and the like. +And I cannot omit a short story here on this subject. +Coming to a relation’s house, who was a school-master at +Martock, in Somersetshire, I went into his school to beg the boys +a play-day, as is usual in such cases (I should have said, to beg +the master a play-day. But that by the way). Coming +into the school, I observed one of the lowest scholars was +reading his lesson to the usher, which lesson, it seems, was a +chapter in the Bible. So I sat down by the master till the +boy had read out his chapter. I observed the boy read a +little oddly in the tone of the country, which made me the more +attentive, because on inquiry I found that the words were the +same and the orthography the same as in all our Bibles. I +observed also the boy read it out with his eyes still on the book +and his head (like a mere boy) moving from side to side as the +lines reached cross the columns of the book. His lesson was +in the Canticles, v. 3 of chap. v. The words +these:—“I have put off my coat. How shall I put +it on? I have washed my feet. How shall I defile +them?”</p> +<p>The boy read thus, with his eyes, as I say, full on the +text:—“Chav a doffed my cooat. How shall I +don’t? Chav a washed my veet. How shall I moil +’em?”</p> +<p>How the dexterous dunce could form his month to express so +readily the words (which stood right printed in the book) in his +country jargon, I could not but admire. I shall add to this +another piece as diverting, which also happened in my knowledge +at this very town of Yeovil, though some years ago.</p> +<p>There lived a good substantial family in the town not far from +the “Angel Inn”—a well-known house, which was +then, and, I suppose, is still, the chief inn of the town. +This family had a dog which, among his other good qualities for +which they kept him (for he was a rare house-dog), had this bad +one—that he was a most notorious thief, but withal so +cunning a dog, and managed himself so warily, that he preserved a +mighty good reputation among the neighbourhood. As the +family was well beloved in the town, so was the dog. He was +known to be a very useful servant to them, especially in the +night (when he was fierce as a lion; but in the day the gentlest, +lovingest creature that could be), and, as they said, all the +neighbours had a good word for this dog.</p> +<p>It happened that the good wife or mistress at the “Angel +Inn” had frequently missed several pieces of meat out of +the pail, as they say—or powdering-tub, as we call +it—and that some were very large pieces. It is also +to be observed the dog did not stay to eat what he took upon the +spot, in which case some pieces or bones or fragments might be +left, and so it might be discovered to be a dog; but he made +cleaner work, and when he fastened upon a piece of meat he was +sure to carry it quite away to such retreats as he knew he could +be safe in, and so feast upon it at leisure.</p> +<p>It happened at last, as with most thieves it does, that the +inn-keeper was too cunning for him, and the poor dog was nabbed, +taken in the fact, and could make no defence.</p> +<p>Having found the thief and got him in custody, the master of +the house, a good-humoured fellow, and loth to disoblige the +dog’s master by executing the criminal, as the dog law +directs, mitigates his sentence, and handled him as +follows:—First, taking out his knife, he cut off both his +ears; and then, bringing him to the threshold, he chopped off his +tail. And having thus effectually dishonoured the poor cur +among his neighbours, he tied a string about his neck, and a +piece of paper to the string, directed to his master, and with +these witty West Country verses on it:—</p> +<blockquote><p> “To my honoured master, +--- Esq.<br /> +“Hail master a cham a’ com hoam,<br /> +So cut as an ape, and tail have I noan,<br /> +For stealing of beef and pork out of the pail,<br /> +For thease they’v cut my ears, for th’ wother my +tail;<br /> +Nea measter, and us tell thee more nor that<br /> +And’s come there again, my brains will be flat.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>I could give many more accounts of the different dialects of +the people of this country, in some of which they are really not +to be understood; but the particulars have little or no diversion +in them. They carry it such a length that we see their +“jouring” speech even upon their monuments and +grave-stones; as, for example, even in some of the churchyards of +the city of Bristol I saw this excellent poetry after some other +lines:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“And when that thou doest hear of thick,<br +/> +Think of the glass that runneth quick.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But I proceed into Devonshire. From Yeovil we came to +Crookorn, thence to Chard, and from thence into the same road I +was in before at Honiton.</p> +<p>This is a large and beautiful market-town, very populous and +well built, and is so very remarkably paved with small pebbles +that on either side the way a little channel is left shouldered +up on the sides of it, so that it holds a small stream of fine +clear running water, with a little square dipping-place left at +every door; so that every family in the town has a clear, clean +running river (as it may be called) just at their own door, and +this so much finer, so much pleasanter, and agreeable to look on +than that at Salisbury (which they boast so much of), that, in my +opinion, there is no comparison.</p> +<p>Here we see the first of the great serge manufacture of +Devonshire—a trade too great to be described in miniature, +as it must be if I undertake it here, and which takes up this +whole county, which is the largest and most populous in England, +Yorkshire excepted (which ought to be esteemed three counties, +and is, indeed, divided as such into the East, West, and North +Riding). But Devonshire, one entire county, is so full of +great towns, and those towns so full of people, and those people +so universally employed in trade and manufactures, that not only +it cannot be equalled in England, but perhaps not in Europe.</p> +<p>In my travel through Dorsetshire I ought to have observed that +the biggest towns in that county sent no members to Parliament, +and that the smallest did—that is to say that Sherborne, +Blandford, Wimborneminster, Stourminster, and several other towns +choose no members; whereas Weymouth, Melcombe, and Bridport were +all burgess towns. But now we come to Devonshire we find +almost all the great towns, and some smaller, choosing members +also. It is true there are some large populous towns that +do not choose, but then there are so many that do, that the +county seems to have no injustice, for they send up +six-and-twenty members.</p> +<p>However, as I say above, there are several great towns which +do not choose Parliament men, of which Bideford is one, Crediton +or Kirton another, Ilfracombe a third; but, those excepted, the +principal towns in the county do all choose members of +Parliament.</p> +<p>Honiton is one of those, and may pass not only for a pleasant +good town, as before, but stands in the best and pleasantest part +of the whole county, and I cannot but recommend it to any +gentlemen that travel this road, that if they please to observe +the prospect for half a mile till their coming down the hill and +to the entrance into Honiton, the view of the country is the most +beautiful landscape in the world—a mere picture—and I +do not remember the like in any one place in England. It is +observable that the market of this town was kept originally on +the Sunday, till it was changed by the direction of King +John.</p> +<p>From Honiton the country is exceeding pleasant still, and on +the road they have a beautiful prospect almost all the way to +Exeter (which is twelve miles). On the left-hand of this +road lies that part of the county which they call the South Hams, +and which is famous for the best cider in that part of England; +also the town of St.-Mary-Ottery, commonly called St. Mary +Autree. They tell us the name is derived from the River +Ottery, and that from the multitude of otters found always in +that river, which however, to me, seems fabulous. Nor does +there appear to be any such great number of otters in that water, +or in the county about, more than is usual in other counties or +in other parts of the county about them. They tell us they +send twenty thousand hogsheads of cider hence every year to +London, and (which is still worse) that it is most of it bought +there by the merchants to mix with their wines—which, if +true, is not much to the reputation of the London vintners. +But that by-the-bye.</p> +<p>From hence we came to Exeter, a city famous for two things +which we seldom find unite in the same town—viz., that it +is full of gentry and good company, and yet full of trade and +manufactures also. The serge market held here every week is +very well worth a stranger’s seeing, and next to the Brigg +Market at Leeds, in Yorkshire, is the greatest in England. +The people assured me that at this market is generally sold from +sixty to seventy to eighty, and sometimes a hundred, thousand +pounds value in serges in a week. I think it is kept on +Mondays.</p> +<p>They have the River Esk here, a very considerable river, and +principal in the whole county; and within three miles, or +thereabouts, it receives ships of any ordinary burthen, the port +there being called Topsham. But now by the application, and +at the expense, of the citizens the channel of the river is so +widened, deepened, and cleansed from the shoal, which would +otherwise interrupt the navigation, that the ships come now quite +up to the city, and there with ease both deliver and take in +their lading.</p> +<p>This city drives a very great correspondence with Holland, as +also directly to Portugal, Spain, and Italy—shipping off +vast quantities of their woollen manufactures especially to +Holland, the Dutch giving very large commissions here for the +buying of serges perpetuans, and such goods; which are made not +only in and about Exeter, but at Crediton, Honiton, Culliton, +St.-Mary-Ottery, Newton Bushel, Ashburton, and especially at +Tiverton, Cullompton, Bampton, and all the north-east part of the +county—which part of the county is, as it may be said, +fully employed, the people made rich, and the poor that are +properly so called well subsisted and employed by it.</p> +<p>Exeter is a large, rich, beautiful, populous, and was once a +very strong city; but as to the last, as the castle, the walls, +and all the old works are demolished, so, were they standing, the +way of managing sieges and attacks of towns is such now, and so +altered from what it was in those days, that Exeter in the utmost +strength it could ever boast would not now hold out five days +open trenches—nay, would hardly put an army to the trouble +of opening trenches against it at all. This city was famous +in the late civil unnatural war for its loyalty to the king, and +for being a sanctuary to the queen, where her Majesty resided for +some time, and here she was delivered of a daughter, being the +Princess Henrietta Maria, of whom our histories give a particular +account, so I need say no more of it here.</p> +<p>The cathedral church of this city is an ancient beauty, or, as +it may be said, it is beautiful for its antiquity; but it has +been so fully and often described that it would look like a mere +copying from others to mention it. There is a good library +kept in it, in which are some manuscripts, and particularly an +old missal or mass-book, the leaves of vellum, and famous for its +most exquisite writing.</p> +<p>This county, and this part of it in particular, has been +famous for the birth of several eminent men as well for learning +as for arts and for war, as particularly:—</p> +<p>1. Sir William Petre, who the learned Dr. Wake (now +Archbishop of Canterbury, and author of the Additions to Mr. +Camden) says was Secretary of State and Privy Councillor to King +Henry VIII., Edward VI., Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, and +seven times sent ambassador into foreign countries.</p> +<p>2. Sir Thomas Bodley, famous and of grateful memory to +all learned men and lovers of letters for his collecting and +establishing the best library in Britain, which is now at Oxford, +and is called, after his name, the Bodleian Library to this +day.</p> +<p>3. Also Sir Francis Drake, born at Plymouth.</p> +<p>4. Sir Walter Raleigh. Of both those I need say +nothing; fame publishes their merit upon every mention of their +names.</p> +<p>5. That great patron of learning, Richard Hooker, author +of the “Ecclesiastical Polity,” and of several other +valuable pieces.</p> +<p>6. Of Dr. Arthur Duck, a famed civilian, and well known +by his works among the learned advocates of Doctors’ +Commons.</p> +<p>7. Dr. John Moreman, of Southold, famous for being the +first clergyman in England who ventured to teach his parishioners +the Lord’s Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments in the +English tongue, and reading them so publicly in the parish church +of Mayenhennet in this county, of which he was vicar.</p> +<p>8. Dr. John de Brampton, a man of great learning who +flourished in the reign of Henry VI., was famous for being the +first that read Aristotle publicly in the University of +Cambridge, and for several learned books of his writing, which +are now lost.</p> +<p>9. Peter Blundel, a clothier, who built the free school +at Tiverton, and endowed it very handsomely; of which in its +place.</p> +<p>10. Sir John Glanvill, a noted lawyer, and one of the +Judges of the Common Pleas.</p> +<p>11. Sergeant Glanvill, his son; as great a lawyer as his +father.</p> +<p>12. Sir John Maynard, an eminent lawyer of later years; +one of the Commissioners of the Great Seal under King William +III. All these three were born at Tavistock.</p> +<p>13. Sir Peter King, the present Lord Chief Justice of +the Common Pleas. And many others.</p> +<p>I shall take the north part of this county in my return from +Cornwall; so I must now lean to the south—that is to say, +to the South Coast—for in going on indeed we go +south-west.</p> +<p>About twenty-two miles from Exeter we go to Totnes, on the +River Dart. This is a very good town, of some trade; but +has more gentlemen in it than tradesmen of note. They have +a very fine stone bridge here over the river, which, being within +seven or eight miles of the sea, is very large; and the tide +flows ten or twelve feet at the bridge. Here we had the +diversion of seeing them catch fish with the assistance of a +dog. The case is this:—On the south side of the +river, and on a slip, or narrow cut or channel made on purpose +for a mill, there stands a corn-mill; the mill-tail, or floor for +the water below the wheels, is wharfed up on either side with +stone above high-water mark, and for above twenty or thirty feet +in length below it on that part of the river towards the sea; at +the end of this wharfing is a grating of wood, the cross-bars of +which stand bearing inward, sharp at the end, and pointing inward +towards one another, as the wires of a mouse-trap.</p> +<p>When the tide flows up, the fish can with ease go in between +the points of these cross-bars, but the mill being shut down they +can go no farther upwards; and when the water ebbs again, they +are left behind, not being able to pass the points of the +grating, as above, outwards; which, like a mouse-trap, keeps them +in, so that they are left at the bottom with about a foot or a +foot and a half of water. We were carried hither at low +water, where we saw about fifty or sixty small salmon, about +seventeen to twenty inches long, which the country people call +salmon-peal; and to catch these the person who went with us, who +was our landlord at a great inn next the bridge, put in a net on +a hoop at the end of a pole, the pole going cross the hoop (which +we call in this country a shove-net). The net being fixed +at one end of the place, they put in a dog (who was taught his +trade beforehand) at the other end of the place, and he drives +all the fish into the net; so that, only holding the net still in +its place, the man took up two or three and thirty salmon-peal at +the first time.</p> +<p>Of these we took six for our dinner, for which they asked a +shilling (viz., twopence a-piece); and for such fish, not at all +bigger, and not so fresh, I have seen six-and-sixpence each given +at a London fish-market, whither they are sometimes brought from +Chichester by land carriage.</p> +<p>This excessive plenty of so good fish (and other provisions +being likewise very cheap in proportion) makes the town of Totnes +a very good place to live in; especially for such as have large +families and but small estates. And many such are said to +come into those parts on purpose for saving money, and to live in +proportion to their income.</p> +<p>From hence we went still south about seven miles (all in view +of this river) to Dartmouth, a town of note, seated at the mouth +of the River Dart, and where it enters into the sea at a very +narrow but safe entrance. The opening into Dartmouth +Harbour is not broad, but the channel deep enough for the biggest +ship in the Royal Navy. The sides of the entrance are +high-mounded with rocks, without which, just at the first +narrowing of the passage, stands a good strong fort without a +platform of guns, which commands the port.</p> +<p>The narrow entrance is not much above half a mile, when it +opens and makes a basin or harbour able to receive 500 sail of +ships of any size, and where they may ride with the greatest +safety, even as in a mill-pond or wet dock. I had the +curiosity here, with the assistance of a merchant of the town, to +go out to the mouth of the haven in a boat to see the entrance, +and castle or fort that commands it; and coming back with the +tide of flood, I observed some small fish to skip and play upon +the surface of the water, upon which I asked my friend what fish +they were. Immediately one of the rowers or seamen starts +up in the boat, and, throwing his arms abroad as if he had been +bewitched, cries out as loud as he could bawl, “A school! a +school!” The word was taken to the shore as hastily +as it would have been on land if he had cried +“Fire!” And by that time we reached the quays +the town was all in a kind of an uproar.</p> +<p>The matter was that a great shoal—or, as they call it, a +“school”—of pilchards came swimming with the +tide of flood, directly out of the sea into the harbour. My +friend whose boat we were in told me this was a surprise which he +would have been very glad of if he could but have had a day or +two’s warning, for he might have taken 200 tons of +them. And the like was the case of other merchants in town; +for, in short, nobody was ready for them, except a small +fishing-boat or two—one of which went out into the middle +of the harbour, and at two or three hauls took about forty +thousand of them. We sent our servant to the quay to buy +some, who for a halfpenny brought us seventeen, and, if he would +have taken them, might have had as many more for the same +money. With these we went to dinner; the cook at the inn +broiled them for us, which is their way of dressing them, with +pepper and salt, which cost us about a farthing; so that two of +us and a servant dined—and at a tavern, too—for three +farthings, dressing and all. And this is the reason of +telling the tale. What drink—wine or beer—we +had I do not remember; but, whatever it was, that we paid for by +itself. But for our food we really dined for three +farthings, and very well, too. Our friend treated us the +next day with a dish of large lobsters, and I being curious to +know the value of such things, and having freedom enough with him +to inquire, I found that for 6d. or 8d. they bought as good +lobsters there as would have cost in London 3s. to 3s. 6d. +each.</p> +<p>In observing the coming in of those pilchards, as above, we +found that out at sea, in the offing, beyond the mouth of the +harbour, there was a whole army of porpoises, which, as they told +us, pursued the pilchards, and, it is probable, drove them into +the harbour, as above. The school, it seems, drove up the +river a great way, even as high as Totnes Bridge, as we heard +afterwards; so that the country people who had boats and nets +catched as many as they knew what to do with, and perhaps lived +upon pilchards for several days. But as to the merchants +and trade, their coming was so sudden that it was no advantage to +them.</p> +<p>Round the west side of this basin or harbour, in a kind of a +semicircle, lies the town of Dartmouth, a very large and populous +town, though but meanly built, and standing on the side of a +steep hill; yet the quay is large, and the street before it +spacious. Here are some very flourishing merchants, who +trade very prosperously, and to the most considerable trading +ports of Spain, Portugal, Italy, and the Plantations; but +especially they are great traders to Newfoundland, and from +thence to Spain and Italy, with fish; and they drive a good trade +also in their own fishery of pilchards, which is hereabouts +carried on with the greatest number of vessels of any port in the +west, except Falmouth.</p> +<p>A little to the southward of this town, and to the east of the +port, is Tor Bay, of which I know nothing proper to my +observation, more than that it is a very good road for ships, +though sometimes (especially with a southerly or south-east wind) +ships have been obliged to quit the bay and put out to sea, or +run into Dartmouth for shelter.</p> +<p>I suppose I need not mention that they had from the hilly part +of this town, and especially from the hills opposite to it, the +noble prospect, and at that time particularly delightful, of the +Prince of Orange’s fleet when he came to that coast, and as +they entered into Tor Bay to land—the Prince and his army +being in a fleet of about 600 sail of transport ships, besides 50 +sail of men-of-war of the line, all which, with a fair wind and +fine weather, came to an anchor there at once.</p> +<p>This town, as most of the towns of Devonshire are, is full of +Dissenters, and a very large meeting-house they have here. +How they act here with respect to the great dispute about the +doctrine of the Trinity, which has caused such a breach among +those people at Exeter and other parts of the county, I cannot +give any account of. This town sends two members to +Parliament.</p> +<p>From hence we went to Plympton, a poor and thinly-inhabited +town, though blessed with the like privilege of sending members +to the Parliament, of which I have little more to say but that +from thence the road lies to Plymouth, distance about six +miles.</p> +<p>Plymouth is indeed a town of consideration, and of great +importance to the public. The situation of it between two +very large inlets of the sea, and in the bottom of a large bay, +which is very remarkable for the advantage of navigation. +The Sound or Bay is compassed on every side with hills, and the +shore generally steep and rocky, though the anchorage is good, +and it is pretty safe riding. In the entrance to this bay +lies a large and most dangerous rock, which at high-water is +covered, but at low-tide lies bare, where many a good ship has +been lost, even in the view of safety, and many a ship’s +crew drowned in the night, before help could be had for them.</p> +<p>Upon this rock (which was called the Eddystone, from its +situation) the famous Mr. Winstanley undertook to build a +lighthouse for the direction of sailors, and with great art and +expedition finished it; which work—considering its height, +the magnitude of its building, and the little hold there was by +which it was possible to fasten it to the rock—stood to +admiration, and bore out many a bitter storm.</p> +<p>Mr. Winstanley often visited, and frequently strengthened, the +building by new works, and was so confident of its firmness and +stability that he usually said he only desired to be in it when a +storm should happen; for many people had told him it would +certainly fall if it came to blow a little harder than +ordinary.</p> +<p>But he happened at last to be in it once too +often—namely, when that dreadful tempest blew, November 27, +1703. This tempest began on the Wednesday before, and blew +with such violence, and shook the lighthouse so much, that, as +they told me there, Mr. Winstanley would fain have been on shore, +and made signals for help; but no boats durst go off to him; and, +to finish the tragedy, on the Friday, November 26, when the +tempest was so redoubled that it became a terror to the whole +nation, the first sight there seaward that the people of Plymouth +were presented with in the morning after the storm was the bare +Eddystone, the lighthouse being gone; in which Mr. Winstanley and +all that were with him perished, and were never seen or heard of +since. But that which was a worse loss still was that, a +few days after, a merchant’s ship called the +<i>Winchelsea</i>, homeward bound from Virginia, not knowing the +Eddystone lighthouse was down, for want of the light that should +have been seen, run foul of the rock itself, and was lost with +all her lading and most of her men. But there is now +another light-house built on the same rock.</p> +<p>What other disasters happened at the same time in the Sound +and in the roads about Plymouth is not my business; they are also +published in other books, to which I refer.</p> +<p>One thing which I was a witness to on a former journey to this +place, I cannot omit. It was the next year after that great +storm, and but a little sooner in the year, being in August; I +was at Plymouth, and walking on the Hoo (which is a plain on the +edge of the sea, looking to the road), I observed the evening so +serene, so calm, so bright, and the sea so smooth, that a finer +sight, I think, I never saw. There was very little wind, +but what was, seemed to be westerly; and about an hour after, it +blew a little breeze at south-west, with which wind there came +into the Sound that night and the next morning a fleet of +fourteen sail of ships from Barbadoes, richly laden for +London. Having been long at sea, most of the captains and +passengers came on shore to refresh themselves, as is usual after +such tedious voyages; and the ships rode all in the Sound on that +side next to Catwater. As is customary upon safe arriving +to their native country, there was a general joy and rejoicing +both on board and on shore.</p> +<p>The next day the wind began to freshen, especially in the +afternoon, and the sea to be disturbed, and very hard it blew at +night; but all was well for that time. But the night after, +it blew a dreadful storm (not much inferior, for the time it +lasted, to the storm mentioned above which blew down the +lighthouse on the Eddystone). About mid-night the noise, +indeed, was very dreadful, what with the rearing of the sea and +of the wind, intermixed with the firing of guns for help from the +ships, the cries of the seamen and people on shore, and (which +was worse) the cries of those which were driven on shore by the +tempest and dashed in pieces. In a word, all the fleet +except three, or thereabouts, were dashed to pieces against the +rocks and sunk in the sea, most of the men being drowned. +Those three who were saved, received so much damage that their +lading was almost all spoiled. One ship in the dark of the +night, the men not knowing where they were, run into Catwater, +and run on shore there; by which she was, however, saved from +shipwreck, and the lives of her crew were saved also.</p> +<p>This was a melancholy morning indeed. Nothing was to be +seen but wrecks of the ships and a foaming, furious sea in that +very place where they rode all in joy and triumph but the evening +before. The captains, passengers, and officers who were, as +I have said, gone on shore, between the joy of saving their +lives, and the affliction of having lost their ships, their +cargoes, and their friends, were objects indeed worth our +compassion and observation. And there was a great variety +of the passions to be observed in them—now lamenting their +losses, their giving thanks for their deliverance. Many of +the passengers had lost their all, and were, as they expressed +themselves, “utterly undone.” They were, I say, +now lamenting their losses with violent excesses of grief; then +giving thanks for their lives, and that they should be brought on +shore, as it were, on purpose to be saved from death; then again +in tears for such as were drowned. The various cases were +indeed very affecting, and, in many things, very instructing.</p> +<p>As I say, Plymouth lies in the bottom of this Sound, in the +centre between the two waters, so there lies against it, in the +same position, an island, which they call St. Nicholas, on which +there is a castle which commands the entrance into Hamoaze, and +indeed that also into Catwater in some degree. In this +island the famous General Lambert, one of Cromwell’s great +agents or officers in the rebellion, was imprisoned for life, and +lived many years there.</p> +<p>On the shore over against this island is the citadel of +Plymouth, a small but regular fortification, inaccessible by sea, +but not exceeding strong by land, except that they say the works +are of a stone hard as marble, and would not soon yield to the +batteries of an enemy—but that is a language our modern +engineers now laugh at.</p> +<p>The town stands above this, upon the same rock, and lies +sloping on the side of it, towards the east—the inlet of +the sea which is called Catwater, and which is a harbour capable +of receiving any number of ships and of any size, washing the +eastern shore of the town, where they have a kind of natural mole +or haven, with a quay and all other conveniences for bringing in +vessels for loading and unloading; nor is the trade carried on +here inconsiderable in itself, or the number of merchants +small.</p> +<p>The other inlet of the sea, as I term it, is on the other side +of the town, and is called Hamoaze, being the mouth of the River +Tamar, a considerable river which parts the two counties of Devon +and Cornwall. Here (the war with France making it necessary +that the ships of war should have a retreat nearer hand than at +Portsmouth) the late King William ordered a wet dock—with +yards, dry docks, launches, and conveniences of all kinds for +building and repairing of ships—to be built; and with these +followed necessarily the building of store-houses and warehouses +for the rigging, sails, naval and military stores, &c., of +such ships as may be appointed to be laid up there, as now +several are; with very handsome houses for the commissioners, +clerks, and officers of all kinds usual in the king’s +yards, to dwell in. It is, in short, now become as complete +an arsenal or yard for building and fitting men-of-war as any the +Government are masters of, and perhaps much more convenient than +some of them, though not so large.</p> +<p>The building of these things, with the addition of rope-walks +and mast-yards, &c., as it brought abundance of trades-people +and workmen to the place, so they began by little and little to +build houses on the lands adjacent, till at length there appeared +a very handsome street, spacious and large, and as well +inhabited; and so many houses are since added that it is become a +considerable town, and must of consequence in time draw abundance +of people from Plymouth itself.</p> +<p>However, the town of Plymouth is, and will always be, a very +considerable town, while that excellent harbour makes it such a +general port for the receiving all the fleets of merchants’ +ships from the southward (as from Spain, Italy, the West Indies, +&c.), who generally make it the first port to put in at for +refreshment, or safety from either weather or enemies.</p> +<p>The town is populous and wealthy, having, as above, several +considerable merchants and abundance of wealthy shopkeepers, +whose trade depends upon supplying the sea-faring people that +upon so many occasions put into that port. As for +gentlemen—I mean, those that are such by family and birth +and way of living—it cannot be expected to find many such +in a town merely depending on trade, shipping, and sea-faring +business; yet I found here some men of value (persons of liberal +education, general knowledge, and excellent behaviour), whose +society obliges me to say that a gentleman might find very +agreeable company in Plymouth.</p> +<p>From Plymouth we pass the Tamar over a ferry to +Saltash—a little, poor, shattered town, the first we set +foot on in the county of Cornwall. The Tamar here is very +wide, and the ferry-boats bad; so that I thought myself well +escaped when I got safe on shore in Cornwall.</p> +<p>Saltash seems to be the ruins of a larger place; and we saw +many houses, as it were, falling down, and I doubt not but the +mice and rats have abandoned many more, as they say they will +when they are likely to fall. Yet this town is governed by +a mayor and aldermen, has many privileges, sends members to +Parliament, takes toll of all vessels that pass the river, and +have the sole oyster-fishing in the whole river, which is +considerable. Mr. Carew, author of the “Survey of +Cornwall,” tells us a strange story of a dog in this town, +of whom it was observed that if they gave him any large bone or +piece of meat, he immediately went out of doors with it, and +after having disappeared for some time would return again; upon +which, after some time, they watched him, when, to their great +surprise, they found that the poor charitable creature carried +what he so got to an old decrepit mastiff, which lay in a nest +that he had made among the brakes a little way out of the town, +and was blind, so that he could not help himself; and there this +creature fed him. He adds also that on Sundays or holidays, +when he found they made good cheer in the house where he lived, +he would go out and bring this old blind dog to the door, and +feed him there till he had enough, and then go with him back to +his habitation in the country again, and see him safe in. +If this story is true, it is very remarkable indeed; and I +thought it worth telling, because the author was a person who, +they say, might be credited.</p> +<p>This town has a kind of jurisdiction upon the River Tamar down +to the mouth of the port, so that they claim anchorage of all +small ships that enter the river; their coroner sits upon all +dead bodies that are found drowned in the river and the like, but +they make not much profit of them. There is a good market +here, and that is the best thing to be said of the town; it is +also very much increased since the number of the inhabitants are +increased at the new town, as I mentioned as near the dock at the +mouth of Hamoaze, for those people choose rather to go to Saltash +to market by water than to walk to Plymouth by land for their +provisions. Because, first, as they go in the town boat, +the same boat brings home what they buy, so that it is much less +trouble; second, because provisions are bought much cheaper at +Saltash than at Plymouth. This, I say, is like to be a very +great advantage to the town of Saltash, and may in time put a new +face of wealth upon the place.</p> +<p>They talk of some merchants beginning to trade here, and they +have some ships that use the Newfoundland fishery; but I could +not hear of anything considerable they do in it. There is +no other considerable town up the Tamar till we come to +Launceston, the county town, which I shall take in my return; so +I turned west, keeping the south shore of the county to the +Land’s End.</p> +<p>From Saltash I went to Liskeard, about seven miles. This +is a considerable town, well built; has people of fashion in it, +and a very great market; it also sends two members to Parliament, +and is one of the five towns called Stannary Towns—that is +to say, where the blocks of tin are brought to the coinage; of +which, by itself, this coinage of tin is an article very much to +the advantage of the towns where it is settled, though the money +paid goes another way.</p> +<p>This town of Liskeard was once eminent, had a good castle, and +a large house, where the ancient Dukes of Cornwall kept their +court in those days; also it enjoyed several privileges, +especially by the favour of the Black Prince, who as Prince of +Wales and Duke of Cornwall resided here. And in return they +say this town and the country round it raised a great body of +stout young fellows, who entered into his service and followed +his fortunes in his wars in France, as also in Spain. But +these buildings are so decayed that there are now scarce any of +the ruins of the castle or of the prince’s court +remaining.</p> +<p>The only public edifices they have now to show are the guild +or town hall, on which there is a turret with a fine clock; a +very good free school, well provided; a very fine conduit in the +market-place; an ancient large church; and, which is something +rare for the county of Cornwall, a large, new-built meeting-house +for the Dissenters, which I name because they assured me there +was but three more, and those very inconsiderable, in all the +county of Cornwall; whereas in Devonshire, which is the next +county, there are reckoned about seventy, some of which are +exceeding large and fine.</p> +<p>This town is also remarkable for a very great trade in all +manufactures of leather, such as boots, shoes, gloves, purses, +breaches, &c.; and some spinning of late years is set up +here, encouraged by the woollen manufacturers of Devonshire.</p> +<p>Between these two towns of Saltash and Liskeard is St. +Germans, now a village, decayed, and without any market, but the +largest parish in the whole county—in the bounds of which +is contained, as they report, seventeen villages, and the town of +Saltash among them; for Saltash has no parish church, it seems, +of itself, but as a chapel-of-ease to St. Germans. In the +neighbourhood of these towns are many pleasant seats of the +Cornish gentry, who are indeed very numerous, though their +estates may not be so large as is usual in England; yet neither +are they despicable in that part; and in particular this may be +said of them—that as they generally live cheap, and are +more at home than in other counties, so they live more like +gentlemen, and keep more within bounds of their estates than the +English generally do, take them all together.</p> +<p>Add to this that they are the most sociable, generous, and to +one another the kindest, neighbours that are to be found; and as +they generally live, as we may say, together (for they are almost +always at one another’s houses), so they generally +intermarry among themselves, the gentlemen seldom going out of +the county for a wife, or the ladies for a husband; from whence +they say that proverb upon them was raised, viz., “That all +the Cornish gentlemen are cousins.”</p> +<p>On the hills north of Liskeard, and in the way between +Liskeard and Launceston, there are many tin-mines. And, as +they told us, some of the richest veins of that metal are found +there that are in the whole county—the metal, when cast at +the blowing houses into blocks, being, as above, carried to +Liskeard to be coined.</p> +<p>From Liskeard, in our course west, we are necessarily carried +to the sea-coast, because of the River Fowey or Fowath, which +empties itself into the sea at a very large mouth. And +hereby this river rising in the middle of the breadth of the +county and running south, and the River Camel rising not far from +it and running north, with a like large channel, the land from +Bodmin to the western part of the county is almost made an island +and in a manner cut off from the eastern part—the +peninsula, or neck of land between, being not above twelve miles +over.</p> +<p>On this south side we came to Foy or Fowey, an ancient town, +and formerly very large—nay, not large only, but powerful +and potent; for the Foyens, as they were then called, were able +to fit out large fleets, not only for merchants’ ships, but +even of men-of-war; and with these not only fought with, but +several times vanquished and routed, the squadron of the Cinque +Ports men, who in those days were thought very powerful.</p> +<p>Mr. Camden observes that the town of Foy quarters some part of +the arms of every one of those Cinque Ports with their own, +intimating that they had at several times trampled over them +all. Certain it is they did often beat them, and took their +ships, and brought them as good prizes into their haven of Foy; +and carried it so high that they fitted out their fleets against +the French, and took several of their men-of-war when they were +at war with England, and enriched their town by the spoil of +their enemies.</p> +<p>Edward IV. favoured them much; and because the French +threatened them to come up their river with a powerful navy to +burn their town, he caused two forts to be built at the public +charge for security of the town and river, which forts—at +least, some show of them—remain there still. But the +same King Edward was some time after so disgusted at the townsmen +for officiously falling upon the French, after a truce was made +and proclaimed, that he effectually disarmed them, took away +their whole fleet, ships, tackle, apparel, and furniture; and +since that time we do not read of any of their naval exploits, +nor that they ever recovered or attempted to recover their +strength at sea. However, Foy at this time is a very fair +town; it lies extended on the east side of the river for above a +mile, the buildings fair. And there are a great many +flourishing merchants in it, who have a great share in the +fishing trade, especially for pilchards, of which they take a +great quantity hereabouts. In this town is also a coinage +for the tin, of which a great quantity is dug up in the country +north and west of the town.</p> +<p>The River Fowey, which is very broad and deep here, was +formerly navigable by ships of good burthen as high as +Lostwithiel—an ancient and once a flourishing but now a +decayed town; and as to trade and navigation, quite destitute; +which is occasioned by the river being filled up with sands, +which, some say, the tides drive up in stormy weather from the +sea; others say it is by sands washed from the lead-mines in the +hills; the last of which, by the way, I take to be a mistake, the +sand from the hills being not of quantity sufficient to fill up +the channel of a navigable river, and, if it had, might easily +have been stopped by the townspeople from falling into the +river. But that the sea has choked up the river with sand +is not only probable, but true; and there are other rivers which +suffer in the like manner in this same country.</p> +<p>This town of Lostwithiel retains, however, several advantages +which support its figure—as, first, that it is one of the +Coinage Towns, as I call them; or Stannary Towns, as others call +them; (2) the common gaol for the whole Stannary is here, as are +also the County Courts for the whole county of Cornwall.</p> +<p>There is a mock cavalcade kept up at this town, which is very +remarkable. The particulars, as they are related by Mr. +Carew in his “Survey of Cornwall,” take as +follows:—</p> +<p>“Upon Little Easter Sunday the freeholders of this town +and manor, by themselves or their deputies, did there assemble; +amongst whom one (as it fell to his lot by turn), bravely +apparelled, gallantly mounted, with a crown on his head, a +sceptre in his hand, and a sword borne before him, and dutifully +attended by all the rest (also on horseback), rode through the +principal street to the church. The curate in his best +beseen solemnly received him at the churchyard stile, and +conducted him to hear divine service. After which he +repaired, with the same pomp, to a house provided for that +purpose, made a feast to his attendants, kept the +table’s-end himself, and was served with kneeling assay and +all other rights due to the estate of a prince; with which dinner +the ceremony ended, and every man returned home again. The +pedigree of this usage is derived from so many descents of ages +that the cause and author outreach the remembrance. +Howbeit, these circumstances afford a conjecture that it should +betoken royalties appertaining to the honour of +Cornwall.”</p> +<p>Behind Foy and nearer to the coast, at the mouth of a small +river which some call Lowe, though without any authority, there +stand two towns opposite to one another bearing the name of the +River Looe—that is to say, distinguished by the addition of +East Looe and West Looe. These are both good trading towns, +and especially fishing towns; and, which is very particular, are +(like Weymouth and Melcombe, in Dorsetshire) separated only by +the creek or river, and yet each of them sends members to +Parliament. These towns are joined together by a very +beautiful and stately stone bridge having fifteen arches.</p> +<p>East Looe was the ancienter corporation of the two, and for +some ages ago the greater and more considerable town; but now +they tell us West Looe is the richest, and has the most ships +belonging to it. Were they put together, they would make a +very handsome seaport town. They have a great fishing trade +here, as well for supply of the country as for merchandise, and +the towns are not despisable. But as to sending four +members to the British Parliament (which is as many as the City +of London chooses), that, I confess, seems a little scandalous; +but to whom, is none of my business to inquire.</p> +<p>Passing from hence, and ferrying over Foy River or the River +Foweth (call it as you please), we come into a large country +without many towns in it of note, but very well furnished with +gentlemen’s seats, and a little higher up with +tin-works.</p> +<p>The sea making several deep bays here, they who travel by land +are obliged to go higher into the country to pass above the +water, especially at Trewardreth Bay, which lies very broad, +above ten miles within the country, which passing at Trewardreth +(a town of no great note, though the bay takes its name from it), +the next inlet of the sea is the famous firth or inlet called +Falmouth Haven. It is certainly, next to Milford Haven in +South Wales, the fairest and best road for shipping that is in +the whole isle of Britain, whether be considered the depth of +water for above twenty miles within land; the safety of riding, +sheltered from all kind of winds or storms; the good anchorage; +and the many creeks, all navigable, where ships may run in and be +safe; so that the like is nowhere to be found.</p> +<p>There are six or seven very considerable places upon this +haven and the rivers from it—viz., Grampound, Tregony, +Truro, Penryn, Falmouth, St. Maws, and Pendennis. The three +first of these send members to Parliament. The town of +Falmouth, as big as all the three, and richer than ten of them, +sends none; which imports no more than this—that Falmouth +itself is not of so great antiquity as to its rising as those +other towns are; and yet the whole haven takes its name from +Falmouth, too, unless, as some think, the town took its name from +the haven, which, however, they give no authority to suggest.</p> +<p>St. Maws and Pendennis are two fortifications placed at the +points or entrance of this haven, opposite to one another, though +not with a communication or view; they are very strong—the +first principally by sea, having a good platform of guns pointing +athwart the Channel, and planted on a level with the water. +But Pendennis Castle is strong by land as well as by water, is +regularly fortified, has good out-works, and generally a strong +garrison. St. Maws, otherwise called St. Mary’s, has +a town annexed to the castle, and is a borough sending members to +the Parliament. Pendennis is a mere fortress, though there +are some habitations in it, too, and some at a small distance +near the seaside, but not of any great consideration.</p> +<p>The town of Falmouth is by much the richest and best trading +town in this county, though not so ancient as its neighbour town +of Truro; and indeed is in some things obliged to acknowledge the +seigniority—namely, that in the corporation of Truro the +person whom they choose to be their Mayor of Truro is also Mayor +of Falmouth of course. How the jurisdiction is managed is +an account too long for this place. The Truro-men also +receive several duties collected in Falmouth, particularly +wharfage for the merchandises landed or shipped off; but let +these advantages be what they will, the town of Falmouth has +gotten the trade—at least, the best part of it—from +the other, which is chiefly owing to the situation. For +that Falmouth lying upon the sea, but within the entrance, ships +of the greatest burthen come up to the very quays, and the whole +Royal Navy might ride safely in the road; whereas the town of +Truro lying far within, and at the mouth of two fresh rivers, is +not navigable for vessels of above 150 tons or thereabouts.</p> +<p>Some have suggested that the original of Falmouth was the +having so large a quay, and so good a depth of water at it. +The merchants of Truro formerly used it for the place of lading +and unlading their ships, as the merchants of Exeter did at +Topsham; and this is the more probable in that, as above, the +wharfage of those landing-places is still the property of the +corporation of Truro.</p> +<p>But let this be as it will, the trade is now in a manner +wholly gone to Falmouth, the trade at Truro being now chiefly (if +not only) for the shipping off of block tin and copper ore, the +latter being lately found in large quantities in some of the +mountains between Truro and St. Michael’s, and which is +much improved since the several mills are erected at Bristol and +other parts for the manufactures of battery ware, as it is called +(brass), or which is made out of English copper, most of it dug +in these parts—the ore itself ago being found very rich and +good.</p> +<p>Falmouth is well built, has abundance of shipping belonging to +it, is full of rich merchants, and has a flourishing and +increasing trade. I say “increasing,” because +by the late setting up the English packets between this port and +Lisbon, there is a new commerce between Portugal and this town +carried on to a very great value.</p> +<p>It is true, part of this trade was founded in a clandestine +commerce carried on by the said packets at Lisbon, where, being +the king’s ships, and claiming the privilege of not being +searched or visited by the Custom House officers, they found +means to carry off great quantities of British manufactures, +which they sold on board to the Portuguese merchants, and they +conveyed them on shore, as it is supposed, without paying +custom.</p> +<p>But the Government there getting intelligence of it, and +complaint being made in England also, where it was found to be +very prejudicial to the fair merchant, that trade has been +effectually stopped. But the Falmouth merchants, having by +this means gotten a taste of the Portuguese trade, have +maintained it ever since in ships of their own. These +packets bring over such vast quantities of gold in specie, either +in <i>moidores</i> (which is the Portugal coin) or in bars of +gold, that I am very credibly informed the carrier from Falmouth +brought by land from thence to London at one time, in the month +of January, 1722, or near it, eighty thousand <i>moidores</i> in +gold, which came from Lisbon in the packet-boats for account of +the merchants at London, and that it was attended with a guard of +twelve horsemen well armed, for which the said carrier had half +per cent. for his hazard.</p> +<p>This is a specimen of the Portugal trade, and how considerable +it is in itself, as well as how advantageous to England; but as +that is not to the present case, I proceed. The Custom +House for all the towns in this port, and the head collector, is +established at this town, where the duties (including the other +ports) is very considerable. Here is also a very great +fishing for pilchards; and the merchants for Falmouth have the +chief stroke in that gainful trade.</p> +<p>Truro is, however, a very considerable town, too. It +stands up the water north and by east from Falmouth, in the +utmost extended branch of the Avon, in the middle between the +conflux of two rivers, which, though not of any long course, have +a very good appearance for a port, and make it large wharf +between them in the front of the town. And the water here +makes a good port for small ships, though it be at the influx, +but not for ships of burthen. This is the particular town +where the Lord-Warden of the Stannaries always holds his famous +Parliament of miners, and for stamping of tin. The town is +well built, but shows that it has been much fuller, both of +houses and inhabitants, than it is now; nor will it probably ever +rise while the town of Falmouth stands where it does, and while +the trade is settled in it as it is. There are at least +three churches in it, but no Dissenters’ meeting-house that +I could hear of.</p> +<p>Tregony is upon the same water north-east from +Falmouth—distance about fifteen miles from it—but is +a town of very little trade; nor, indeed, have any of the towns, +so far within the shore, notwithstanding the benefit of the +water, any considerable trade but what is carried on under the +merchants of Falmouth or Truro. The chief thing that is to +be said of this town is that it sends members to Parliament, as +does also Grampound, a market-town; and Burro’, about four +miles farther up the water. This place, indeed, has a claim +to antiquity, and is an appendix to the Duchy of Cornwall, of +which it holds at a fee farm rent and pays to the Prince of Wales +as duke £10 11s. 1d. per annum. It has no parish +church, but only a chapel-of-ease to an adjacent parish.</p> +<p>Penryn is up the same branch of the Avon as Falmouth, but +stands four miles higher towards the west; yet ships come to it +of as great a size as can come to Truro itself. It is a +very pleasant, agreeable town, and for that reason has many +merchants in it, who would perhaps otherwise live at +Falmouth. The chief commerce of these towns, as to their +sea-affairs, is the pilchards and Newfoundland fishing, which is +very profitable to them all. It had formerly a conventual +church, with a chantry and a religious house (a cell to Kirton); +but they are all demolished, and scarce the ruins of them +distinguishable enough to know one part from another.</p> +<p>Quitting Falmouth Haven from Penryn West, we came to Helston, +about seven miles, and stands upon the little River Cober, which, +however, admits the sea so into its bosom as to make a tolerable +good harbour for ships a little below the town. It is the +fifth town allowed for the coining tin, and several of the ships +called tin-ships are laden here.</p> +<p>This town is large and populous, and has four spacious +streets, a handsome church, and a good trade. This town +also sends members to Parliament. Beyond this is a +market-town, though of no resort for trade, called Market +Jew. It lies, indeed, on the seaside, but has no harbour or +safe road for shipping.</p> +<p>At Helford is a small but good harbour between Falmouth and +this port, where many times the tin-ships go in to load for +London; also here are a good number of fishing vessels for the +pilchard trade, and abundance of skilful fishermen. It was +from this town that in the great storm which happened November +27, 1703, a ship laden with tin was blown out to sea and driven +to the Isle of Wight in seven hours, having on board only one man +and two boys. The story is as follows:—</p> +<p>“The beginning of the storm there lay a ship laden with +tin in Helford Haven, about two leagues and a half west of +Falmouth. The tin was taken on board at a place called +Guague Wharf, five or six miles up the river, and the vessel was +come down to Helford in order to pursue her voyage to London.</p> +<p>“About eight o’clock in the evening the commander, +whose name was Anthony Jenkins, went on board with his mate to +see that everything was safe, and to give orders, but went both +on shore again, leaving only a man and two boys on board, not +apprehending any danger, they being in safe harbour. +However, he ordered them that if it should blow hard they should +carry out the small bower anchor, and so to moor the ship by two +anchors, and then giving what other orders he thought to be +needful, he went ashore, as above.</p> +<p>“About nine o’clock, the wind beginning to blow +harder, they carried out the anchor, according to the +master’s order; but the wind increasing about ten, the ship +began to drive, so they carried out their best bower, which, +having a good new cable, brought the ship up. The storm +still increasing, they let go the kedge anchor; so that they then +rode by four anchors ahead, which were all they had.</p> +<p>“But between eleven and twelve o’clock the wind +came about west and by south, and blew in so violent and terrible +a manner that, though they rode under the lee of a high shore, +yet the ship was driven from all her anchors, and about midnight +drove quite out of the harbour (the opening of the harbour lying +due east and west) into the open sea, the men having neither +anchor or cable or boat to help themselves.</p> +<p>“In this dreadful condition (they driving, I say, out of +the harbour) their first and chief care was to go clear of the +rocks which lie on either side the harbour’s mouth, and +which they performed pretty well. Then, seeing no remedy, +they consulted what to do next. They could carry no sail at +first—no, not a knot; nor do anything but run away afore +it. The only thing they had to think on was to keep her out +at sea as far as they could, for fear of a point of land called +the Dead Man’s Head, which lies to the eastward of Falmouth +Haven; and then, if they could escape the land, thought to run in +for Plymouth next morning, so, if possible, to save their +lives.</p> +<p>“In this frighted condition they drove away at a +prodigious rate, having sometimes the bonnet of their foresail a +little out, but the yard lowered almost to the +deck—sometimes the ship almost under water, and sometimes +above, keeping still in the offing, for fear of the land, till +they might see daylight. But when the day broke they found +they were to think no more of Plymouth, for they were far enough +beyond it; and the first land they made was Peverel Point, being +the southernmost land of the Isle of Purbeck, in Dorsetshire, and +a little to the westward of the Isle of Wight; so that now they +were in a terrible consternation, and driving still at a +prodigious rate. By seven o’clock they found +themselves broadside of the Isle of Wight.</p> +<p>“Here they consulted again what to do to save their +lives. One of the boys was for running her into the Downs; +but the man objected that, having no anchor or cable nor boat to +go on shore with, and the storm blowing off shore in the Downs, +they should be inevitably blown off and lost upon the unfortunate +Goodwin—which, it seems, the man had been on once before +and narrowly escaped.</p> +<p>“Now came the last consultation for their lives. +The other of the boys said he had been in a certain creek in the +Isle of Wight, where, between the rocks, he knew there was room +to run the ship in, and at least to save their lives, and that he +saw the place just that moment; so he desired the man to let him +have the helm, and he would do his best and venture it. The +man gave him the helm, and he stood directly in among the rocks, +the people standing on the shore thinking they were mad, and that +they would in a few minutes be dashed in a thousand pieces.</p> +<p>“But when they came nearer, and the people found they +steered as if they knew the place, they made signals to them to +direct them as well as they could, and the young bold fellow run +her into a small cove, where she stuck fast, as it were, between +the rocks on both sides, there being but just room enough for the +breadth of the ship. The ship indeed, giving two or three +knocks, staved and sunk, but the man and the two youths jumped +ashore and were safe; and the lading, being tin, was afterwards +secured.</p> +<p>“N.B.—The merchants very well rewarded the three +sailors, especially the lad that ran her into that +place.”</p> +<p>Penzance is the farthest town of any note west, being 254 +miles from London, and within about ten miles of the promontory +called the Land’s End; so that this promontory is from +London 264 miles, or thereabouts. This town of Penzance is +a place of good business, well built and populous, has a good +trade, and a great many ships belonging to it, notwithstanding it +is so remote. Here are also a great many good families of +gentlemen, though in this utmost angle of the nation; and, which +is yet more strange, the veins of lead, tin, and copper ore are +said to be seen even to the utmost extent of land at low-water +mark, and in the very sea—so rich, so valuable, a treasure +is contained in these parts of Great Britain, though they are +supposed to be so poor, because so very remote from London, which +is the centre of our wealth.</p> +<p>Between this town and St. Burien, a town midway between it and +the Land’s End, stands a circle of great stones, not unlike +those at Stonehenge, in Wiltshire, with one bigger than the rest +in the middle. They stand about twelve feet asunder, but +have no inscription; neither does tradition offer to leave any +part of their history upon record, as whether it was a trophy or +a monument of burial, or an altar for worship, or what else; so +that all that can be learned of them is that here they are. +The parish where they stand is called Boscawone, from whence the +ancient and honourable family of Boscawen derive their names.</p> +<p>Near Penzance, but open to the sea, is that gulf they call +Mount’s Bay; named so from a high hill standing in the +water, which they call St. Michael’s Mount: the seamen call +it only the Cornish Mount. It has been fortified, though +the situation of it makes it so difficult of access that, like +the Bass in Scotland, there needs no fortification; like the +Bass, too, it was once made a prison for prisoners of State, but +now it is wholly neglected. There is a very good road here +for shipping, which makes the town of Penzance be a place of good +resort.</p> +<p>A little up in the county towards the north-west is Godolchan, +which though a hill, rather than a town, gives name to the noble +and ancient family of Godolphin; and nearer on the northern coast +is Royalton, which since the late Sydney Godolphin, Esq., a +younger brother of the family, was created Earl of Godolphin, +gave title of Lord to his eldest son, who was called Lord +Royalton during the life of his father. This place also is +infinitely rich in tin-mines.</p> +<p>I am now at my journey’s end. As to the islands of +Scilly, which lie beyond the Land’s End, I shall say +something of them presently. I must now return <i>sur mes +pas</i>, as the French call it; though not literally so, for I +shall not come back the same way I went. But as I have +coasted the south shore to the Land’s End, I shall come +back by the north coast, and my observations in my return will +furnish very well materials for another letter.</p> +<h3>APPENDIX TO LAND’S END.</h3> +<p>I have ended this account at the utmost extent of the island +of Great Britain west, without visiting those excrescences of the +island, as I think I may call them—viz., the rocks of +Scilly; of which what is most famous is their infamy or reproach; +namely, how many good ships are almost continually dashed in +pieces there, and how many brave lives lost, in spite of the +mariners’ best skill, or the lighthouses’ and other +sea-marks’ best notice.</p> +<p>These islands lie so in the middle between the two vast +openings of the north and south narrow seas (or, as the sailors +call them, the Bristol Channel, and The Channel—so called +by way of eminence) that it cannot, or perhaps never will, be +avoided but that several ships in the dark of the night and in +stress of weather, may, by being out in their reckonings, or +other unavoidable accidents, mistake; and if they do, they are +sure, as the sailors call it, to run “bump ashore” +upon Scilly, where they find no quarter among the breakers, but +are beat to pieces without any possibility of escape.</p> +<p>One can hardly mention the Bishop and his Clerks, as they are +called, or the rocks of Scilly, without letting fall a tear to +the memory of Sir Cloudesley Shovel and all the gallant spirits +that were with him, at one blow and without a moment’s +warning dashed into a state of immortality—the admiral, +with three men-of-war, and all their men (running upon these +rocks right afore the wind, and in a dark night) being lost +there, and not a man saved. But all our annals and +histories are full of this, so I need say no more.</p> +<p>They tell us of eleven sail of merchant-ships homeward bound, +and richly laden from the southward, who had the like fate in the +same place a great many years ago; and that some of them coming +from Spain, and having a great quantity of bullion or pieces of +eight on board, the money frequently drives on shore still, and +that in good quantities, especially after stormy weather.</p> +<p>This may be the reason why, as we observed during our short +stay here, several mornings after it had blown something hard in +the night, the sands were covered with country people running to +and fro to see if the sea had cast up anything of value. +This the seamen call “going a-shoring;” and it seems +they do often find good purchase. Sometimes also dead +bodies are cast up here, the consequence of shipwrecks among +those fatal rocks and islands; as also broken pieces of ships, +casks, chests, and almost everything that will float or roll on +shore by the surges of the sea.</p> +<p>Nor is it seldom that the voracious country people scuffle and +fight about the right to what they find, and that in a desperate +manner; so that this part of Cornwall may truly be said to be +inhabited by a fierce and ravenous people. For they are so +greedy, and eager for the prey, that they are charged with +strange, bloody, and cruel dealings, even sometimes with one +another; but especially with poor distressed seamen when they +come on shore by force of a tempest, and seek help for their +lives, and where they find the rooks themselves not more +merciless than the people who range about them for their +prey.</p> +<p>Here, also, as a farther testimony of the immense riches which +have been lost at several times upon this coast, we found several +engineers and projectors—some with one sort of diving +engine, and some with another; some claiming such a wreck, and +some such-and-such others; where they alleged they were assured +there were great quantities of money; and strange unprecedented +ways were used by them to come at it: some, I say, with one kind +of engine, and some another; and though we thought several of +them very strange impracticable methods, yet I was assured by the +country people that they had done wonders with them under water, +and that some of them had taken up things of great weight and in +a great depth of water. Others had split open the wrecks +they had found in a manner one would have thought not possible to +be done so far under water, and had taken out things from the +very holds of the ships. But we could not learn that they +had come at any pieces of eight, which was the thing they seemed +most to aim at and depend upon; at least, they had not found any +great quantity, as they said they expected.</p> +<p>However, we left them as busy as we found them, and far from +being discouraged; and if half the golden mountains, or silver +mountains either, which they promise themselves should appear, +they will be very well paid for their labour.</p> +<p>From the tops of the hills on this extremity of the land you +may see out into that they call the Chops of the Channel, which, +as it is the greatest inlet of commerce, and the most frequented +by merchant-ships of any place in the world, so one seldom looks +out to seaward but something new presents—that is to say, +of ships passing or repassing, either on the great or lesser +Channel.</p> +<p>Upon a former accidental journey into this part of the +country, during the war with France, it was with a mixture of +pleasure and horror that we saw from the hills at the Lizard, +which is the southern-most point of this land, an obstinate fight +between three French men-of-war and two English, with a privateer +and three merchant-ships in their company. The English had +the misfortune, not only to be fewer ships of war in number, but +of less force; so that while the two biggest French ships engaged +the English, the third in the meantime took the two +merchant-ships and went off with them. As to the picaroon +or privateer, she was able to do little in the matter, not daring +to come so near the men-of-war as to take a broadside, which her +thin sides would not have been able to bear, but would have sent +her to the bottom at once; so that the English men-of-war had no +assistance from her, nor could she prevent the taking the two +merchant-ships. Yet we observed that the English captains +managed their fight so well, and their seamen behaved so briskly, +that in about three hours both the Frenchmen stood off, and, +being sufficiently banged, let us see that they had no more +stomach to fight; after which the English—having damage +enough, too, no doubt—stood away to the eastward, as we +supposed, to refit.</p> +<p>This point of the Lizard, which runs out to the southward, and +the other promontory mentioned above, make the two +angles—or horns, as they are called—from whence it is +supposed this county received its first name of Cornwall, or, as +Mr. Camden says, <i>Cornubia</i> in the Latin, and in the British +“Kernaw,” as running out in two vastly extended +horns. And indeed it seems as if Nature had formed this +situation for the direction of mariners, as foreknowing of what +importance it should be, and how in future ages these seas should +be thus thronged with merchant-ships, the protection of whose +wealth, and the safety of the people navigating them, was so much +her early care that she stretched out the land so very many ways, +and extended the points and promontories so far and in so many +different places into the sea, that the land might be more easily +discovered at a due distance, which way soever the ships should +come.</p> +<p>Nor is the Lizard Point less useful (though not so far west) +than the other, which is more properly called the Land’s +End; but if we may credit our mariners, it is more frequently +first discovered from the sea. For as our mariners, knowing +by the soundings when they are in the mouth of the Channel, do +then most naturally stand to the southward, to avoid mistaking +the Channel, and to shun the Severn Sea or Bristol Channel, but +still more to avoid running upon Scilly and the rocks about it, +as is observed before—I say, as they carefully keep to the +southward till they think they are fair with the Channel, and +then stand to the northward again, or north-east, to make the +land, this is the reason why the Lizard is, generally speaking, +the first land they make, and not the Land’s End.</p> +<p>Then having made the Lizard, they either (first) run in for +Falmouth, which is the next port, if they are taken short with +easterly winds, or are in want of provisions and refreshment, or +have anything out of order, so that they care not to keep the +sea; or (secondly) stand away for the Ram Head and Plymouth +Sound; or (thirdly) keep an offing to run up the Channel.</p> +<p>So that the Lizard is the general guide, and of more use in +these cases than the other point, and is therefore the land which +the ships choose to make first; for then also they are sure that +they are past Scilly and all the dangers of that part of the +island.</p> +<p>Nature has fortified this part of the island of Britain in a +strange manner, and so, as is worth a traveller’s +observation, as if she knew the force and violence of the mighty +ocean which beats upon it; and which, indeed, if the land was not +made firm in proportion, could not withstand, but would have been +washed away long ago.</p> +<p>First, there are the islands of Scilly and the rocks about +them; these are placed like out-works to resist the first +assaults of this enemy, and so break the force of it, as the +piles (or starlings, as they are called) are placed before the +solid stonework of London Bridge to fence off the force either of +the water or ice, or anything else that might be dangerous to the +work.</p> +<p>Then there are a vast number of sunk rocks (so the seamen call +them), besides such as are visible and above water, which +gradually lessen the quantity of water that would otherwise lie +with an infinite weight and force upon the land. It is +observed that these rocks lie under water for a great way off +into the sea on every side the said two horns or points of land, +so breaking the force of the water, and, as above, lessening the +weight of it.</p> +<p>But besides this the whole <i>terra firma</i>, or body of the +land which makes this part of the isle of Britain, seems to be +one solid rock, as if it was formed by Nature to resist the +otherwise irresistible power of the ocean. And, indeed, if +one was to observe with what fury the sea comes on sometimes +against the shore here, especially at the Lizard Point, where +there are but few, if any, out-works, as I call them, to resist +it; how high the waves come rolling forward, storming on the neck +of one another (particularly when the wind blows off sea), one +would wonder that even the strongest rocks themselves should be +able to resist and repel them. But, as I said, the country +seems to be, as it were, one great body of stone, and prepared so +on purpose.</p> +<p>And yet, as if all this was not enough, Nature has provided +another strong fence, and that is, that these vast rocks are, as +it were, cemented together by the solid and weighty ore of tin +and copper, especially the last, which is plentifully found upon +the very outmost edge of the land, and with which the stones may +be said to be soldered together, lest the force of the sea should +separate and disjoint them, and so break in upon these +fortifications of the island to destroy its chief security.</p> +<p>This is certain—that there is a more than ordinary +quantity of tin, copper, and lead also placed by the Great +Director of Nature in these very remote angles (and, as I have +said above, the ore is found upon the very surface of the rocks a +good way into the sea); and that it does not only lie, as it +were, upon or between the stones among the earth (which in that +case might be washed from it by the sea), but that it is even +blended or mixed in with the stones themselves, that the stones +must be split into pieces to come at it. By this mixture +the rocks are made infinitely weighty and solid, and thereby +still the more qualified to repel the force of the sea.</p> +<p>Upon this remote part of the island we saw great numbers of +that famous kind of crows which is known by the name of the +Cornish cough or chough (so the country people call them). +They are the same kind which are found in Switzerland among the +Alps, and which Pliny pretended were peculiar to those mountains, +and calls the <i>pyrrhocorax</i>. The body is black; the +legs, feet, and bill of a deep yellow, almost to a red. I +could not find that it was affected for any good quality it had, +nor is the flesh good to eat, for it feeds much on fish and +carrion; it is counted little better than a kite, for it is of +ravenous quality, and is very mischievous. It will steal +and carry away anything it finds about the house that is not too +heavy, though not fit for its food—as knives, forks, +spoons, and linen cloths, or whatever it can fly away with; +sometimes they say it has stolen bits of firebrands, or lighted +candles, and lodged them in the stacks of corn and the thatch of +barns and houses, and set them on fire; but this I only had by +oral tradition.</p> +<p>I might take up many sheets in describing the valuable +curiosities of this little Chersonese or Neck Land, called the +Land’s End, in which there lies an immense treasure and +many things worth notice (I mean, besides those to be found upon +the surface), but I am too near the end of this letter. If +I have opportunity I shall take notice of some part of what I +omit here in my return by the northern shore of the county.</p> +<h2>TWO LETTERS<br /> +FROM THE “JOURNEY THROUGH ENGLAND BY A +GENTLEMAN.”</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Published in</i> 1722, <i>but +not by Defoe</i>.</p> +<h3>BATH IN 1722.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Bath</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> +<p>The Bath lies very low, is but a small city, but very compact, +and one can hardly imagine it could accommodate near the company +that frequents it at least three parts of the year. I have +been told of 8,000 families there at a time—some for the +benefit of drinking its hot waters, others for bathing, and +others for diversion and pleasure (of which, I must say, it +affords more than any public place of that kind in Europe).</p> +<p>I told you in my former letters that Epsom and Tunbridge do +not allow visiting (the companies there meet only on the walks); +but here visits are received and returned, assemblies and balls +are given, and parties at play in most houses every night, to +which one Mr. Nash hath for many years contributed very +much. This gentleman is by custom a sort of master of +ceremonies of the place; he is not of any birth nor estate, but +by a good address and assurance ingratiates himself into the good +graces of the ladies and the best company in the place, and is +director of all their parties of pleasure. He wears good +clothes, is always affluent of money, plays very much, and +whatever he may get in private, yet in public he always seems to +lose. The town have been for many years so sensible of the +service he does them that they ring the bells generally at his +arrival in town, and, it is thought, pay him a yearly +contribution for his support.</p> +<p>In the morning early the company of both sexes meet at the +Pump (in a great hall enrailed), to drink the waters and saunter +about till prayer-time, or divert themselves by looking on those +that are bathing in the bath. Most of the company go to +church in the morning in dishabille, and then go home to dress +for the walks before dinner. The walks are behind the +church, spacious and well shaded, planted round with shops filled +with everything that contributes to pleasure, and at the end a +noble room for gaming, from whence there are hanging-stairs to a +pretty garden for everybody that pays for the time they stay, to +walk in.</p> +<p>I have often wondered that the physicians of these places +prescribe gaming to their patients, in order to keep their minds +free from business and thought, that their waters on an +undisturbed mind may have the greater effect, when indeed one +cross-throw at play must sour a man’s blood more than ten +glasses of water will sweeten, especially for such great sums as +they throw for every day at Bath.</p> +<p>The King and Queen’s Baths, which have a communication +with one another, are the baths which people of common rank go +into promiscuously; and indeed everybody, except the first +quality. The way of going into them is very comical: a +chair with a couple of chairmen come to your bedside (lie in what +storey you will), and there strip you, and give you their dress +without your shift, and wrapping you up in blankets carry you to +the bath.</p> +<p>When you enter the bath, the water seems very warm; and the +heat much increases as you go into the Queen’s Bath, where +the great spring rises. On a column erected over the spring +is an inscription of the first finder-out of these springs, in +the following words: that “Bladud, the son of Lud, found +them three hundred years before Christ.” The smoke +and slime of the waters, the promiscuous multitude of the people +in the bath, with nothing but their heads and hands above water, +with the height of the walls that environ the bath, gave me a +lively idea of several pictures I had seen, of Angelo’s in +Italy of Purgatory, with heads and hands uplifted in the midst of +smoke, just as they are here. After bathing, you are +carried home in your chair, in the same manner you came.</p> +<p>The Cross Bath, which is used by the people of the first +quality, was beautified and inclosed for the convenience of the +late King James’s queen, who after the priests and +physicians had been at work to procure a male successor to the +throne of Great Britain, the Sacrament exposed in all the Roman +Catholic countries, and for that end a sanctified smock sent from +the Virgin Mary at Loretto, the queen was ordered to go to Bath +and prepare herself, and the king to make a progress through the +western counties and join her there. On his arrival at +Bath, the next day after his conjunction with the queen, the Earl +of Melfort (then Secretary of State for Scotland) erected a fine +prophetic monument in the middle of the Bath, as an everlasting +monument of that conjunction. I call it +“prophetic,” because nine months after a Prince of +Wales was born. This monument is still entire and handsome, +only some of the inscriptions on the pillar were erased in King +William’s time. The angels attending the Holy Ghost +as He descends, the Eucharist, the Pillar, and all the ornaments +are of fine marble, and must have cost that earl a great deal of +money. He was second son to Drummond, Earl of Perth, in +North Britain; and was Deputy Governor of the Castle of Edinburgh +when the Duke and Duchess of York came to Scotland, in King +Charles the Second’s time. He was a handsome +gentleman, with a good address, and went into all the measures of +that court, and at all their balls generally danced with the +duchess; who, on their accession to the throne, sent for him up +to London, made him Secretary of State for Scotland, created him +Earl of Melfort, and Knight of the Order of St. Andrew. His +elder brother was also made Chancellor and Governor of +Scotland. And on King James’s abdication, as the two +brothers followed the king’s fortunes, the Earl of Perth +was made governor to the young prince; and Melfort was created a +duke, had the Garter, and was a great man in France to his dying +day.</p> +<p>There is another bath for lepers.</p> +<p>The cathedral church is small but well lighted. There +are abundance of little monuments in it of people who come there +for their health, but meet with their death.</p> +<p>These waters have a wonderful influence on barren ladies, who +often prove with child even in their husbands’ absence; who +must not come near them till their bodies are prepared.</p> +<p>Everything looks gay and serene here; it is plentiful and +cheap. Only the taverns do not much improve, for it is a +place of universal sobriety. To be drunk at Bath is as +scandalous as mad. Common women are not to be met with here +so much as at Tunbridge and Epsom. Whether it is the +distance from London, or that the gentlemen fly at the highest +game, I cannot tell; besides, everything that passes here is +known on the walks, and the characters of persons.</p> +<p>In three hours one arrives from Bath at Bristol, a large, +opulent, and fine city; but, notwithstanding its nearness, by the +different manners of the people seems to be another +country. Instead of that politeness and gaiety which you +see at Bath, here is nothing but hurry—carts driving along +with merchandises, and people running about with cloudy looks and +busy faces. When I came to the Exchange I was surprised to +see it planted round with stone pillars, with broad boss-plates +on them like sun-dials, and coats-of-arms with inscriptions on +every plate.</p> +<p>They told me that these pillars were erected by eminent +merchants for the benefit of writing and despatching their +affairs on them, as on tables; and at ’Change time the +merchants take each their stands by their pillars, that masters +of ships and owners may know where to find them.</p> +<p>Coffee-houses and taverns lie round the ’Change, just as +at London; and the Bristol milk, which is Spanish sherry (nowhere +so good as here), is plentifully drunk.</p> +<p>The city of Bristol is situated much like Verona, in +Italy. A river runs through almost the middle of it, on +which there is a fine stone bridge. The quay may be made +the finest, largest, and longest in the world by pulling down an +old house or two. Behind the quay is a very noble square, +as large as that of Soho in London, in which is kept the Custom +House; and most of the eminent merchants who keep their coaches +reside here. The cathedral is on the other side of the +river, on the top of the hill, and is the meanest I have seen in +England. But the square or green adjoining to it has +several fine houses, and makes by its situation, in my opinion, +much the pleasantest part of the town. There are some +churches in the city finer than the cathedral, and your merchants +have their little country-seats in the adjacent eminences; of +which that of Mr. Southwell hath a very commanding prospect, both +of the city, the River Severn, and the shipping that lies +below.</p> +<p>There are hot springs near Bristol that are also very much +frequented, and are reckoned to be better than the Bath for some +distempers.</p> +<p>A traveller when he comes to the Bath must never fail of +seeing Badminton, belonging to the Dukes of Beaufort; nor +Longleat, belonging to my Lord Weymouth. They are both +within a few miles of the Bath. King William, when he took +Badminton in his way from Ireland, told the duke that he was not +surprised at his not coming to court, having so sumptuous a +palace to keep a court of his own in. And indeed the +apartments are inferior to few royal palaces. The parks are +large, and enclosed with a stone wall; and that duke, whom I +described to you in my letter from Windsor, lived up to the +grandeur of a sovereign prince. His grandson, who was also +Knight of the Garter, made a great figure in the reign of Queen +Anne. The family, which is a natural branch of the house of +Lancaster, have always distinguished themselves of the Tory +side. The present duke is under age.</p> +<p>Longleat, though an old seat, is very beautiful and large; and +the gardens and avenue, being full-grown, are very beautiful and +well kept. It cost the late Lord Weymouth a good revenue in +hospitality to such strangers as came from Bath to see it.</p> +<p>The biggest and most regular house in England was built near +Bristol by the late Lord Stawell; but it being judged by his +heirs to be too big for the estate, they are pulling it down and +selling the materials.</p> +<p>As the weather grows good, I shall proceed through South Wales +to Chester, from whence you shall soon hear from me, who am +without reserve, sir, your most humble, &c.</p> +<h3>FROM CHESTER TO HOLYHEAD.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Chester</i>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> +<p>I crossed the Severn at the ferry of Ash, about ten miles +above Bristol, and got to Monmouth to dinner through a rugged, +indifferent country. It is a pitiful old town, and hath +nothing remarkable in it; and from thence through a fat fertile +country I got to the city of Hereford at night.</p> +<p>Hereford is the dirtiest old city I have seen in England, yet +pretty large; the streets are irregular and the houses old, and +its cathedral a reverend old pile, but not beautiful; the niches +of the walls of the church are adorned with the figures of its +bishops as big as the life, in a cumbent posture, with the year +of their interments newly painted over. Some of them are in +the twelve hundredth year of Christ. Here they drink +nothing but cider, which is very cheap and very good; and the +very hedges in the country are planted with apple-trees. +About three miles from Hereford in my road to Ludlow I saw a fine +old seat called Hampton Court, belonging to my Lord +Coningsby. The plantations on rising grounds round it give +an august splendour to the house, which consists of an oval court +with suitable offices, not unlike an house belonging to the Duke +of Somerset near London; and from thence in a few hours I arrived +at Ludlow, the capital of South Wales, and where the Princes of +Wales formerly, and since them the Presidents of Wales, kept +their courts.</p> +<p>Ludlow is one of the neatest, clean, pretty towns in +England. The street by which you enter the town is +spacious, with handsome houses sash-windowed on each side, which +leads you by an ascent to the castle on the left of the top of +the hill, and the church on the right, from whence there runs +also another handsome street. The castle hath a very +commanding prospect of the adjacent country; the offices in the +outer court are falling down, and a great part of the court is +turned into a bowling-green; but the royal apartments in the +castle, with some old velvet furniture and a sword of state, are +still left. There is also a neat little chapel; but the +vanity of the Welsh gentry when they were made councillors has +spoiled it by adorning it with their names and arms, of which it +is full.</p> +<p>A small expense would still make this castle a habitable and +beautiful place, lying high, and overlooking a fine country; +there is also a fine prospect from the churchyard, and the church +is very neat. I saw abundance of pretty ladies here, and +well dressed, who came from the adjacent counties, for the +convenience and cheapness of boarding. Provisions of all +sorts are extremely plentiful and cheap here, and very good +company.</p> +<p>I stayed some days here, to make an excursion into South Wales +and know a little of the manners of the country, as I design to +do at Chester for North Wales. The gentry are very +numerous, exceedingly civil to strangers, if you don’t come +to purchase and make your abode amongst them. They live +much like Gascoynes—affecting their own language, valuing +themselves much on the antiquity of their families, and are proud +of making entertainments.</p> +<p>The Duke of Powis, of the name of Herbert, hath a noble seat +near this town, but I was not at it; the family followed King +James’s fortunes to France, and I suppose the seat lies +neglected. From Ludlow in a short day’s riding +through a champaign country I arrived at the town of +Shrewsbury.</p> +<p>Shrewsbury stands upon an eminence, encircled by the Severn +like a horse-shoe; the streets are large, and the houses well +built. My Lord Newport, son to the Earl of Bradford, hath a +handsome palace, with hanging gardens down to the river; as also +Mr. Kinnaston, and some other gentlemen. There is a good +town-house, and the most coffee-houses round it that ever I saw +in any town; but when you come into them, they are but ale-houses +(only they think that the name of coffee-house gives a better +air). King Charles would have made them a city, but they +chose rather to remain a corporation, as they are, for which they +were called the “proud Salopians.” There is a +great deal of good company in this town, for the convenience of +cheapness; and there are assemblies and balls for the young +ladies once a week. The Earl of Bradford and several others +have handsome seats near it; from hence I came to Wrexham, in +Wales, a beautiful market-town; the church is the beautifullest +country church in England, and surpasses some cathedrals. I +counted fifty-two statues as big as the life in the steeple or +tower, which is built after the manner of your Dutch steeples, +and as high as any there. I was there on a market-day, and +was particularly pleased to see the Welsh ladies come to market +in their laced hats, their own hair hanging round their +shoulders, and blue and scarlet cloaks like our +Amazons—some of them with a greyhound in a string in their +hands.</p> +<p>Whitchurch, near it, hath a fine church, built by the Earl of +Bridgwater; and so to Chester, an ancient and large city, with a +commanding castle. The city consists of four large streets, +which make an exact cross, with the town-house and Exchange in +the middle; but you don’t walk the streets here, but in +galleries up one pair of stairs, which keeps you from the rain in +winter, and sun in summer; and the houses and shops, with +gardens, go all off these galleries, which they call rows. +The city is walled round, and the wall so firmly paved that it +gives you an agreeable prospect of the country and river, as you +walk upon it. The churches are very neat, and the cathedral +an august old pile; there is an ancient monument of an Emperor of +Germany, with assemblies every week. While I continued at +Chester, I made an excursion into North Wales, and went into +Denbigh, the capital of that country, where are the remains of a +very great and old castle, as is also at Flint, the capital of +Flintshire. These castles were the frontier garrisons of +Wales before it came under the subjection of England. The +country is mountainous, and full of iron and lead works; and here +they begin to differ from the English both in language and +dress.</p> +<p>From Flint, along the seaside, in three hours I arrived at the +famous cold bath called St. Winifred’s Well; and the town +from thence called Holywell is a pretty large well-built village, +in the middle of a grove, in a bottom between, two hills. +The well is in the foot of one of the hills, and spouts out about +the bigness of a barrel at once, with such force that it turns +three or four mills before it falls into the sea. The well +where you bathe is floored with stone surrounded with pillars, on +which stands a neat little chapel dedicated to St. Winifred, but +now turned into a Protestant school. However, to supply the +loss of this chapel, the Roman Catholics have chapels erected +almost in every inn for the devotion of the pilgrims that flock +hither from all the Popish parts of England. The water, you +may imagine, is very cold, coming from the bowels of an iron +mountain, and never having met with the influence of the sun till +it runs from the well.</p> +<p>The legend of St. Winifred is too long and ridiculous for a +letter; I leave you to Dr. Fleetwood (when Bishop of St. Asaph) +for its description. I will only tell you, in two words, +that this St. Winifred was a beautiful damsel that lived on the +top of the hill; that a prince of the country fell deeply in love +with her; that coming one day when her parents were abroad, and +she resisting his passion, turned into rage, and as she was +flying from him cut off her head, which rolled down the hill with +her body, and at the place where it stopped gushed out this well +of water. But there was also a good hermit that lived at +the bottom of the hill, who immediately claps her head to her +body, and by the force of the water and his prayers she +recovered, and lived to perform many miracles for many years +after. They give you her printed litanies at the +well. And I observed the Roman Catholics in their prayers, +not with eyes lifted up to heaven, but intent upon the water, as +if it were the real blood of St. Winifred that was to wash them +clean from all their sins.</p> +<p>In every inn you meet with a priest, habited like country +gentlemen, and very good companions. At the “Cross +Keys,” where I lodged, there was one that had been marked +out to me, to whom I was particularly civil at supper; but +finding by my conversation I was none of them, he drank and swore +like a dragoon, on purpose, as I imagine, to disguise +himself. From Holywell in two hours I came to a handsome +seat of Sir John Conway’s at Redland, and next day to +Conway.</p> +<p>I do not know any place in Europe that would make a finer +landscape in a picture than Conway at a mile’s +distance. It lies on the side of a hill, on the banks of an +arm of the sea about the breadth of the Thames at London, and +within two little miles of the sea, over which we ferry to go to +the town.</p> +<p>The town is walled round, with thirty watch-towers at proper +distances on the walls; and the castle with its towers, being +very white, makes an august show at a distance, being surrounded +with little hills on both sides of the bay or river, covered with +wood. But when you cross the ferry and come into the town, +there is nothing but poverty and misery. The castle is a +heap of rubbish uncovered, and these towers on the walls only +standing vestiges of what Wales was when they had a prince of +their own.</p> +<p>They speak all Welsh here, and if a stranger should lose his +way in this county of Carnarvon, it is ten to one if he meets +with any one that has English enough to set him right. The +people are also naturally very surly, and even if they understand +English, if you ask them a question their answer is, “Dame +Salsenach,” or “I cannot speak Saxon or +English.” Their Bibles and prayer-books are all +printed in Welsh in our character; so that an Englishman can read +their language, although he doth not understand a word of +it. It hath a great resemblance of the Bas-Bretons, but +they retain the letter and character as well as language, as the +Scots and Highlanders do.</p> +<p>They retain several Popish customs in North Wales, for on +Sunday (after morning service) the whole parish go to football +till the afternoon service begins, and then they go to the +ale-house and play at all manner of games (which ale-house is +often kept by the parson, for their livings are very small).</p> +<p>They have also offerings at funerals, which is one of the +greatest perquisites the parson hath. When the body is +deposited in the church during the service for the dead, every +person invited to the burial lays a piece of money upon the altar +to defray the dead person’s charges to the other world, +which, after the ceremony is over, the parson puts in his +pocket. From Conway, through the mountainous country of +Carnarvon, I passed the famous mountain of Penmaen-Mawr, so +dreadfully related by passengers travelling to Ireland. It +is a road cut out of the side of the rock, seven feet wide; the +sea lies perpendicularly down, about forty fathoms on one side, +and the mountain is about the same height above it on the other +side. It looks dismal, but not at all dangerous, for there +is now a wall breast-high along the precipice. However, +there is an ale-house at the bottom of the hill on the other +side, with this inscription, “Now your fright is over, take +a dram.” From hence I proceeded to a little town +called Bangor, where there is a cathedral such as may be expected +in Wales; and from thence to Carnarvon, the capital of the +county. Here are the vestiges of a large old castle, where +one of the Henrys, King of England, was born; as was another at +Monmouth, in South Wales. For the Welsh were so hard to be +reconciled to their union with England at first, it was thought +policy to send our queens to lie-in there, to make our princes +Welshmen born, and that way ingratiate the inhabitants to their +subjection to a prince born in their own country. And for +that reason our kings to this day wear a leek (the badge of +Wales) on St. David’s Day, the patron of this country; as +they do the Order of the Thistle on St. Andrew’s Day, the +patron of Scotland.</p> +<p>Carnarvon is a pretty little town, situated in the bottom of a +bay, and might be a place of good trade, if the country afforded +a consumption.</p> +<p>The sea flows quite round from Bangor to Carnarvon Bay, which +separates Anglesea from the rest of Wales, and makes it an +island. Beaumaris, the capital of the island, hath been a +flourishing town; there are still two very good streets, and the +remains of a very large castle. The Lord Bulkeley hath a +noble ancient seat planted with trees on the side of the hill +above the town, from whence one hath a fine prospect of the bay +and adjacent country; the church is very handsome, and there are +some fine ancient monuments of that family and some Knights +Templars in it. The family of Bulkeley keep in their family +a large silver goblet, with which they entertain their friends, +with an inscription round relating to the royal family when in +distress, which is often remembered by the neighbouring gentry, +whose affections run very much that way all over Wales.</p> +<p>I went from hence to Glengauny, the ancient residence of Owen +Tudor, but now belongs to the Bulkeleys, and to be sold. It +is a good old house, and I believe never was larger. There +is a vulgar error in this country that Owen Tudor was married to +a Queen of England, and that the house of York took that surname +from him; whereas the Queen of England that was married to him +was a daughter of the King of France and dowager of England, and +had no relation to the Crown; he had indeed two daughters by her, +that were married into English noble families—to one of +which Henry VII. was related. But Owen Tudor was neither of +the blood of the Princes of Wales himself, nor gave descent to +that of the English. He was a private gentleman, of about +£3,000 a year, who came to seek his fortune at the English +court, and the queen fell in love with him.</p> +<p>I was invited to a cock-match some miles from Glengauny, where +were above forty gentlemen, most of them of the names of Owen, +Parry, and Griffith; they fought near twenty battles, and every +battle a cock was killed. Their cocks are doubtless the +finest in the world; and the gentlemen, after they were a little +heated with liquor, were as warm as their cocks. A great +deal of bustle and noise grew by degrees after dinner was over; +but their scolding was all in Welsh, and civilities in +English. We had a very great dinner; and the house (called +The College) where we dined was built very comically; it is four +storeys high, built on the side of a hill, and the stable is in +the garret. There is a broad stone staircase on the outside +of the house, by which you enter into the several +apartments. The kitchen is at the bottom of the hill, a +bedchamber above that, the parlour (where we dined) is the third +storey, and on the top of the hill is the stable.</p> +<p>From hence I stepped over to Holyhead, where the packet-boats +arrive from Ireland. It is a straggling, confused heap of +thatched houses built on rocks; yet within doors there are in +several of them very good accommodation for passengers, both in +lodging and diet.</p> +<p>The packet-boats from Dublin arrive thrice a week, and are +larger than those to Holland and France, fitted with all +conveniences for passengers; and indeed St. George’s +Channel requires large ships in winter, the wind being generally +very boisterous in these narrow seas.</p> +<p>On my return to Chester I passed over the mountain called +Penmaen Ross, where I saw plainly a part of Ireland, Scotland, +England, and the Isle of Man all at once.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Printed by Cassell & Company, +Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM LONDON TO LAND'S END***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 1149-h.htm or 1149-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/1/4/1149 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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