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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through
+Wales, by Giraldus Cambrensis
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through Wales
+
+
+Author: Giraldus Cambrensis
+
+
+
+Release Date: February 9, 2015  [eBook #1148]
+[This file was first posted on December 14, 1997]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP
+BALDWIN THROUGH WALES***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1912 J. M. Dent and Sons edition by David Price,
+email ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+
+
+
+
+            THE ITINERARY OF ARCHBISHOP BALDWIN THROUGH WALES
+                                    by
+                           Giraldus Cambrensis
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+GERALD THE WELSHMAN—Giraldus Cambrensis—was born, probably in 1147, at
+Manorbier Castle in the county of Pembroke.  His father was a Norman
+noble, William de Barri, who took his name from the little island of
+Barry off the coast of Glamorgan.  His mother, Angharad, was the daughter
+of Gerald de Windsor {0a} by his wife, the famous Princess Nesta, the
+“Helen of Wales,” and the daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr Mawr, the last
+independent Prince of South Wales.
+
+Gerald was therefore born to romance and adventure.  He was reared in the
+traditions of the House of Dinevor.  He heard the brilliant and pitiful
+stories of Rhys ap Tewdwr, who, after having lost and won South Wales,
+died on the stricken field fighting against the Normans, an old man of
+over fourscore years; and of his gallant son, Prince Rhys, who, after
+wrenching his patrimony from the invaders, died of a broken heart a few
+months after his wife, the Princess Gwenllian, had fallen in a skirmish
+at Kidwelly.  No doubt he heard, though he makes but sparing allusion to
+them, of the loves and adventures of his grandmother, the Princess Nesta,
+the daughter and sister of a prince, the wife of an adventurer, the
+concubine of a king, and the paramour of every daring lover—a Welshwoman
+whose passions embroiled all Wales, and England too, in war, and the
+mother of heroes—Fitz-Geralds, Fitz-Stephens, and Fitz-Henries, and
+others—who, regardless of their mother’s eccentricity in the choice of
+their fathers, united like brothers in the most adventurous undertaking
+of that age, the Conquest of Ireland.
+
+Though his mother was half Saxon and his father probably fully Norman,
+Gerald, with a true instinct, described himself as a “Welshman.”  His
+frank vanity, so naïve as to be void of offence, his easy acceptance of
+everything which Providence had bestowed on him, his incorrigible belief
+that all the world took as much interest in himself and all that appealed
+to him as he did himself, the readiness with which he adapted himself to
+all sorts of men and of circumstances, his credulity in matters of faith
+and his shrewd common sense in things of the world, his wit and lively
+fancy, his eloquence of tongue and pen, his acute rather than accurate
+observation, his scholarship elegant rather than profound, are all
+characteristic of a certain lovable type of South Walian.  He was not
+blind to the defects of his countrymen any more than to others of his
+contemporaries, but the Welsh he chastised as one who loved them.  His
+praise followed ever close upon the heels of his criticism.  There was
+none of the rancour in his references to Wales which defaces his account
+of contemporary Ireland.  He was acquainted with Welsh, though he does
+not seem to have preached it, and another archdeacon acted as the
+interpreter of Archbishop Baldwin’s Crusade sermon in Anglesea.  But he
+could appreciate the charm of the _Cynghanedd_, the alliterative
+assonance which is still the most distinctive feature of Welsh poetry.
+He cannot conceal his sympathy with the imperishable determination of his
+countrymen to keep alive the language which is their _differentia_ among
+the nations of the world.  It is manifest in the story which he relates
+at the end of his “Description of Wales.”  Henry II. asked an old
+Welshman of Pencader in Carmarthenshire if the Welsh could resist his
+might.  “This nation, O King,” was the reply, “may often be weakened and
+in great part destroyed by the power of yourself and of others, but many
+a time, as it deserves, it will rise triumphant.  But never will it be
+destroyed by the wrath of man, unless the wrath of God be added.  Nor do
+I think that any other nation than this of Wales, or any other tongue,
+whatever may hereafter come to pass, shall on the day of the great
+reckoning before the Most High Judge, answer for this corner of the
+earth.”  Prone to discuss with his “Britannic frankness” the faults of
+his countrymen, he cannot bear that any one else should do so.  In the
+“Description of Wales” he breaks off in the middle of a most unflattering
+passage concerning the character of the Welsh people to lecture Gildas
+for having abused his own countrymen.  In the preface to his “Instruction
+of Princes,” he makes a bitter reference to the prejudice of the English
+Court against everything Welsh—“Can any good thing come from Wales?”  His
+fierce Welshmanship is perhaps responsible for the unsympathetic
+treatment which he has usually received at the hands of English
+historians.  Even to one of the writers of Dr. Traill’s “Social England,”
+Gerald was little more than “a strong and passionate Welshman.”
+
+Sometimes it was his pleasure to pose as a citizen of the world.  He
+loved Paris, the centre of learning, where he studied as a youth, and
+where he lectured in his early manhood.  He paid four long visits to
+Rome.  He was Court chaplain to Henry II.  He accompanied the king on his
+expeditions to France, and Prince John to Ireland.  He retired, when old
+age grew upon him, to the scholarly seclusion of Lincoln, far from his
+native land.  He was the friend and companion of princes and kings, of
+scholars and prelates everywhere in England, in France, and in Italy.
+And yet there was no place in the world so dear to him as Manorbier.  Who
+can read his vivid description of the old castle by the sea—its ramparts
+blown upon by the winds that swept over the Irish Sea, its fishponds, its
+garden, and its lofty nut trees—without feeling that here, after all, was
+the home of Gerald de Barri?  “As Demetia,” he said in his “Itinerary,”
+“with its seven cantreds is the fairest of all the lands of Wales, as
+Pembroke is the fairest part of Demetia, and this spot the fairest of
+Pembroke, it follows that Manorbier is the sweetest spot in Wales.”  He
+has left us a charming account of his boyhood, playing with his brothers
+on the sands, they building castles and he cathedrals, he earning the
+title of “boy bishop” by preaching while they engaged in boyish sport.
+On his last recorded visit to Wales, a broken man, hunted like a criminal
+by the king, and deserted by the ingrate canons of St. David’s, he
+retired for a brief respite from strife to the sweet peace of Manorbier.
+It is not known where he died, but it is permissible to hope that he
+breathed his last in the old home which he never forgot or ceased to
+love.
+
+He mentions that the Welsh loved high descent and carried their pedigree
+about with them.  In this respect also Gerald was Welsh to the core.  He
+is never more pleased than when he alludes to his relationship with the
+Princes of Wales, or the Geraldines, or Cadwallon ap Madoc of Powis.  He
+hints, not obscurely, that the real reason why he was passed over for the
+Bishopric of St. David’s in 1186 was that Henry II. feared his _natio et
+cognatio_, his nation and his family.  He becomes almost dithyrambic in
+extolling the deeds of his kinsmen in Ireland.  “Who are they who
+penetrated into the fastnesses of the enemy?  The Geraldines.  Who are
+they who hold the country in submission?  The Geraldines.  Who are they
+whom the foemen dread?  The Geraldines.  Who are they whom envy would
+disparage?  The Geraldines.  Yet fight on, my gallant kinsmen,
+
+    “Felices facti si quid mea carmina possuit.”
+
+Gerald was satisfied, not only with his birthplace and lineage, but with
+everything that was his.  He makes complacent references to his good
+looks, which he had inherited from Princess Nesta.  “Is it possible so
+fair a youth can die?” asked Bishop, afterwards Archbishop, Baldwin, when
+he saw him in his student days. {0b}  Even in his letters to Pope
+Innocent he could not refrain from repeating a compliment paid to him on
+his good looks by Matilda of St. Valery, the wife of his neighbour at
+Brecon, William de Braose.  He praises his own unparalleled generosity in
+entertaining the poor, the doctors, and the townsfolk of Oxford to
+banquets on three successive days when he read his “Topography of
+Ireland” before that university.  As for his learning he records that
+when his tutors at Paris wished to point out a model scholar they
+mentioned Giraldus Cambrensis.  He is confident that though his works,
+being all written in Latin, have not attained any great contemporary
+popularity, they will make his name and fame secure for ever.  The most
+precious gift he could give to Pope Innocent III., when he was anxious to
+win his favour, was six volumes of his own works; and when good old
+Archbishop Baldwin came to preach the Crusade in Wales, Gerald could
+think of no better present to help beguile the tedium of the journey than
+his own “Topography of Ireland.”  He is equally pleased with his own
+eloquence.  When the archbishop had preached, with no effect, for an
+hour, and exclaimed what a hardhearted people it was, Gerald moved them
+almost instantly to tears.  He records also that John Spang, the Lord
+Rhys’s fool, said to his master at Cardigan, after Gerald had been
+preaching the Crusade, “You owe a great debt, O Rhys, to your kinsman,
+the archdeacon, who has taken a hundred or so of your men to serve the
+Lord; for if he had only spoken in Welsh, you would not have had a soul
+left.”  His works are full of appreciations of Gerald’s reforming zeal,
+his administrative energy, his unostentatious and scholarly life.
+
+Professor Freeman in his “Norman Conquest” described Gerald as “the
+father of comparative philology,” and in the preface to his edition of
+the last volume of Gerald’s works in the Rolls Series, he calls him “one
+of the most learned men of a learned age,” “the universal scholar.”  His
+range of subjects is indeed marvellous even for an age when to be a
+“universal scholar” was not so hopeless of attainment as it has since
+become.  Professor Brewer, his earliest editor in the Rolls Series, is
+struck by the same characteristic.  “Geography, history, ethics,
+divinity, canon law, biography, natural history, epistolary
+correspondence, and poetry employed his pen by turns, and in all these
+departments of literature he has left memorials of his ability.”  Without
+being Ciceronian, his Latin was far better than that of his
+contemporaries.  He was steeped in the classics, and he had, as Professor
+Freeman remarks, “mastered more languages than most men of his time, and
+had looked at them with an approach to a scientific view which still
+fewer men of his time shared with him.”  He quotes Welsh, English, Irish,
+French, German, Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, and with four or five of these
+languages at least he had an intimate, scholarly acquaintance.  His
+judgment of men and things may not always have been sound, but he was a
+shrewd observer of contemporary events.  “The cleverest critic of the
+life of his time” is the verdict of Mr. Reginald Poole. {0c}  He changed
+his opinions often: he was never ashamed of being inconsistent.  In early
+life he was, perhaps naturally, an admirer of the Angevin dynasty; he
+lived to draw the most terrible picture extant of their lives and
+characters.  During his lifetime he never ceased to inveigh against
+Archbishop Hubert Walter; after his death he repented and recanted.  His
+invective was sometimes coarse, and his abuse was always virulent.  He
+was not over-scrupulous in his methods of controversy; but no one can
+rise from a reading of his works without a feeling of liking for the
+vivacious, cultured, impulsive, humorous, irrepressible Welshman.
+Certainly no Welshman can regard the man who wrote so lovingly of his
+native land, and who championed her cause so valiantly, except with real
+gratitude and affection.
+
+But though it is as a writer of books that Gerald has become famous, he
+was a man of action, who would have left, had Fate been kinder, an
+enduring mark on the history of his own time, and would certainly have
+changed the whole current of Welsh religious life.  As a descendant of
+the Welsh princes, he took himself seriously as a Welsh patriot.
+Destined almost from his cradle, both by the bent of his mind and the
+inclination of his father, to don “the habit of religion,” he could not
+join Prince Rhys or Prince Llewelyn in their struggle for the political
+independence of Wales.  His ambition was to become Bishop of St. David’s,
+and then to restore the Welsh Church to her old position of independence
+of the metropolitan authority of Canterbury.  He detested the practice of
+promoting Normans to Welsh sees, and of excluding Welshmen from high
+positions in their own country.  “Because I am a Welshman, am I to be
+debarred from all preferment in Wales?” he indignantly writes to the
+Pope.  Circumstances at first seemed to favour his ambition.  His uncle,
+David Fitz-Gerald, sat in the seat of St. David’s.  When the young
+scholar returned from Paris in 1172, he found the path of promotion easy.
+After the manner of that age—which Gerald lived to denounce—he soon
+became a pluralist.  He held the livings of Llanwnda, Tenby, and Angle,
+and afterwards the prebend of Mathry, in Pembrokeshire, and the living of
+Chesterton in Oxfordshire.  He was also prebendary of Hereford, canon of
+St. David’s, and in 1175, when only twenty-eight years of age, he became
+Archdeacon of Brecon.  In the following year Bishop David died, and
+Gerald, together with the other archdeacons of the diocese, was nominated
+by the chapter for the king’s choice.  But the chapter had been
+premature, urged, no doubt, by the impetuous young Archdeacon of Brecon.
+They had not waited for the king’s consent to the nomination.  The king
+saw that his settled policy in Wales would be overturned if Gerald became
+Bishop of St. David’s.  Gerald’s cousin, the Lord Rhys, had been
+appointed the king’s justiciar in South Wales.  The power of the Lord
+Marches was to be kept in check by a quasi-alliance between the Welsh
+prince and his over-lord.  The election of Gerald to the greatest see in
+Wales would upset the balance of power.  David Fitz-Gerald, good easy man
+(_vir suâ sorte contentus_ is Gerald’s description of him), the king
+could tolerate, but he could not contemplate without uneasiness the
+combination of spiritual and political power in South Wales in the hands
+of two able, ambitious, and energetic kinsmen, such as he knew Gerald and
+the Lord Rhys to be.  Gerald had made no secret of his admiration for the
+martyred St. Thomas à Becket.  He fashioned himself upon him as Becket
+did on Anselm.  The part which Becket played in England he would like to
+play in Wales.  But the sovereign who had destroyed Becket was not to be
+frightened by the canons of St. David’s and the Archdeacon of Brecon.  He
+summoned the chapter to Westminster, and compelled them in his presence
+to elect Peter de Leia, the Prior of Wenlock, who erected for himself an
+imperishable monument in the noble cathedral which looks as if it had
+sprung up from the rocks which guard the city of Dewi Sant from the
+inrush of the western sea.
+
+It is needless to recount the many activities in which Gerald engaged
+during the next twenty-two years.  They have been recounted with humorous
+and affectionate appreciation by Dr. Henry Owen in his monograph on
+“Gerald the Welshman,” a little masterpiece of biography which deserves
+to be better known. {0d}  In 1183 Gerald was employed by the astute king
+to settle terms between him and the rebellious Lord Rhys.  Nominally as a
+reward for his successful diplomacy, but probably in order to keep so
+dangerous a character away from the turbulent land of Wales, Gerald was
+in the following year made a Court chaplain.  In 1185 he was commissioned
+by the king to accompany Prince John, then a lad of eighteen, who had
+lately been created “Lord of Ireland,” to the city of Dublin.  There he
+abode for two years, collecting materials for his two first books, the
+“Topography” and the “Conquest of Ireland.”  In 1188 he accompanied
+Archbishop Baldwin through Wales to preach the Third Crusade—not the
+first or the last inconsistency of which the champion of the independence
+of the Welsh Church was guilty.  His “Itinerary through Wales” is the
+record of the expedition.  King Richard offered him the Bishopric of
+Bangor, and John, in his brother’s absence, offered him that of Llandaff.
+But his heart was set on St. David’s.  In 1198 his great chance came to
+him.  At last, after twenty-two years of misrule, Peter de Leia was dead,
+and Gerald seemed certain of attaining his heart’s desire.  Once again
+the chapter nominated Gerald; once more the royal authority was exerted,
+this time by Archbishop Hubert, the justiciar in the king’s absence, to
+defeat the ambitious Welshman.  The chapter decided to send a deputation
+to King Richard in Normandy.  The deputation arrived at Chinon to find
+Coeur-de-Lion dead; but John was anxious to make friends everywhere, in
+order to secure himself on his uncertain throne.  He received the
+deputation graciously, he spoke in praise of Gerald, and he agreed to
+accept the nomination.  But after his return to England John changed his
+mind.  He found that no danger threatened him in his island kingdom, and
+he saw the wisdom of the justiciar’s policy.  Gerald hurried to see him,
+but John point blank refused publicly to ratify his consent to the
+nomination which he had already given in private.  Then commenced the
+historic fight for St. David’s which, in view of the still active “Church
+question” in Wales, is even now invested with a living interest and
+significance.  Gerald contended that the Welsh Church was independent of
+Canterbury, and that it was only recently, since the Norman Conquest,
+that she had been deprived of her freedom.  His opponents relied on
+political, rather than historical, considerations to defeat this bold
+claim.  King Henry, when a deputation from the chapter in 1175 appeared
+before the great council in London and had urged the metropolitan claims
+of St. David’s upon the Cardinal Legate, exclaimed that he had no
+intention of giving this head to rebellion in Wales.  Archbishop Hubert,
+more of a statesman than an ecclesiastic, based his opposition on similar
+grounds.  He explained his reasons bluntly to the Pope.  “Unless the
+barbarity of this fierce and lawless people can be restrained by
+ecclesiastical censures through the see of Canterbury, to which province
+they are subject by law, they will be for ever rising in arms against the
+king, to the disquiet of the whole realm of England.”  Gerald’s answer to
+this was complete, except from the point of view of political expediency.
+“What can be more unjust than that this people of ancient faith, because
+they answer force by force in defence of their lives, their lands, and
+their liberties, should be forthwith separated from the body corporate of
+Christendom, and delivered over to Satan?”
+
+The story of the long fight between Gerald on the one hand and the whole
+forces of secular and ecclesiastical authority on the other cannot be
+told here.  Three times did he visit Rome to prosecute his appeal—alone
+against the world.  He had to journey through districts disturbed by
+wars, infested with the king’s men or the king’s enemies, all of whom
+regarded Gerald with hostility.  He was taken and thrown into prison as
+King John’s subject in one town, he was detained by importunate creditors
+in another, and at Rome he was betrayed by a countryman whom he had
+befriended.  He himself has told us
+
+                Of the most disastrous chances
+    Of moving accidents by flood and field,
+
+which made a journey from St. David’s to Rome a more perilous adventure
+in those unquiet days than an expedition “through darkest Africa” is in
+ours.  At last the very Chapter of St. David’s, for whose ancient rights
+he was contending, basely deserted him.  “The laity of Wales stood by
+me,” so he wrote in later days, “but of the clergy whose battle I was
+fighting scarce one.”  Pope Innocent III. was far too wary a politician
+to favour the claims of a small and distracted nation, already
+half-subjugated, against the king of a rich and powerful country.  He
+flattered our poor Gerald, he delighted in his company, he accepted, and
+perhaps even read, his books.  But in the end, after five years’
+incessant fighting, the decision went against him, and the English king’s
+nominee has ever since sat on the throne of St. David’s.  “Many and great
+wars,” said Gwenwynwyn, the Prince of Powis, “have we Welshmen waged with
+England, but none so great and fierce as his who fought the king and the
+archbishop, and withstood the might of the whole clergy and people of
+England, for the honour of Wales.”
+
+Short was the memory and scant the gratitude of his countrymen.  When in
+1214 another vacancy occurred at a time when King John was at variance
+with his barons and his prelates, the Chapter of St. David’s nominated,
+not Gerald, their old champion, but Iorwerth, the Abbot of Talley, from
+whose reforming zeal they had nothing to fear.  This last prick of
+Fortune’s sword pierced Gerald to the quick.  He had for years been
+gradually withdrawing from an active life.  He had resigned his
+archdeaconry and his prebend stall, he had made a fourth pilgrimage, this
+time for his soul’s sake, to Rome, he had retired to a quiet pursuit of
+letters probably at Lincoln, and henceforward, till his death about the
+year 1223, he devoted himself to revising and embellishing his old works,
+and completing his literary labours.  By his fight for St. David’s he had
+endeared himself to the laity of his country for all time.  The saying of
+Llewelyn the Great was prophetic.  “So long as Wales shall stand by the
+writings of the chroniclers and by the songs of the bards shall his noble
+deed be praised throughout all time.”  The prophecy has not yet been
+verified.  Welsh chroniclers have made but scanty references to Gerald;
+no bard has ever yet sung an _Awdl_ or a _Pryddest_ in honour of him who
+fought for the “honour of Wales.”  His countrymen have forgotten Gerald
+the Welshman.  It has been left to Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Foster,
+Professor Brewer, Dimmock, and Professor Freeman to edit his works.  Only
+two of his countrymen have attempted to rescue one of the greatest of
+Welshmen from an undeserved oblivion.  In 1585, when the Renaissance of
+Letters had begun to rouse the dormant powers of the Cymry, Dr. David
+Powel edited in Latin a garbled version of the “Itinerary” and
+“Description of Wales,” and gave a short and inaccurate account of
+Gerald’s life.  In 1889 Dr. Henry Owen published, “at his own proper
+charges,” the first adequate account by a Welshman of the life and
+labours of Giraldus Cambrensis.  When his monument is erected in the
+cathedral which was built by his hated rival, the epitaph which he
+composed for himself may well be inscribed upon it—
+
+    Cambria Giraldus genuit, sic Cambria mentem
+    Erudiit, cineres cui lapis iste tegit.
+
+And by that time perhaps some competent scholar will have translated some
+at least of Gerald’s works into the language best understood by the
+people of Wales.
+
+It would be impossible to exaggerate the enormous services which three
+great Welshmen of the twelfth century rendered to England and to the
+world—such services as we may securely hope will be emulated by Welshmen
+of the next generation, now that we have lived to witness what Mr.
+Theodore Watts-Dunton has called “the great recrudescence of Cymric
+energy.” {0e}  The romantic literature of England owes its origin to
+Geoffrey of Monmouth; {0f} Sir Galahad, the stainless knight, the mirror
+of Christian chivalry, as well as the nobler portions of the Arthurian
+romance, were the creation of Walter Map, the friend and “gossip” of
+Gerald; {0g} and John Richard Green has truly called Gerald himself “the
+father of popular literature.” {0h}  He began to write when he was only
+twenty; he continued to write till he was past the allotted span of life.
+He is the most “modern” as well as the most voluminous of all the
+mediæval writers.  Of all English writers, Miss Kate Norgate {0i} has
+perhaps most justly estimated the real place of Gerald in English
+letters.  “Gerald’s wide range of subjects,” she says, “is only less
+remarkable than the ease and freedom with which he treats them.  Whatever
+he touches—history, archæology, geography, natural science, politics, the
+social life and thought of the day, the physical peculiarities of Ireland
+and the manners and customs of its people, the picturesque scenery and
+traditions of his own native land, the scandals of the court and the
+cloister, the petty struggle for the primacy of Wales, and the great
+tragedy of the fall of the Angevin Empire—is all alike dealt with in the
+bold, dashing, offhand style of a modern newspaper or magazine article.
+His first important work, the ‘Topography of Ireland,’ is, with due
+allowance for the difference between the tastes of the twelfth century
+and those of the nineteenth, just such a series of sketches as a special
+correspondent in our own day might send from some newly-colonised island
+in the Pacific to satisfy or whet the curiosity of his readers at home.”
+The description aptly applies to all that Gerald wrote.  If not a
+historian, he was at least a great journalist.  His descriptions of
+Ireland have been subjected to much hostile criticism from the day they
+were written to our own times.  They were assailed at the time, as Gerald
+himself tells us, for their unconventionality, for their departure from
+established custom, for the freedom and colloquialism of their style, for
+the audacity of their stories, and for the writer’s daring in venturing
+to treat the manners and customs of a barbarous country as worthy the
+attention of the learned and the labours of the historian.  Irish
+scholars, from the days of Dr. John Lynch, who published his “Cambrensis
+Eversus” in 1622, have unanimously denounced the work of the sensational
+journalist, born out of due time.  His Irish books are confessedly
+partisan; the “Conquest of Ireland” was expressly designed as an eulogy
+of “the men of St. David’s,” the writer’s own kinsmen.  But in spite of
+partisanship and prejudice, they must be regarded as a serious and
+valuable addition to our knowledge of the state of Ireland at the latter
+end of the twelfth century.  Indeed, Professor Brewer does not hesitate
+to say that “to his industry we are exclusively indebted for all that is
+known of the state of Ireland during the whole of the Middle Ages,” and
+as to the “Topography,” Gerald “must take rank with the first who
+descried the value and in some respects the limits of descriptive
+geography.”
+
+When he came to deal with the affairs of state on a larger stage, his
+methods were still that of the modern journalist.  He was always an
+impressionist, a writer of personal sketches.  His character sketches of
+the Plantagenet princes—of King Henry with his large round head and fat
+round belly, his fierce eyes, his tigerish temper, his learning, his
+licentiousness, his duplicity, and of Eleanor of Aquitaine, his vixenish
+and revengeful wife, the murderess of “Fair Rosamond” (who must have been
+known to Gerald, being the daughter of Walter of Clifford-on-the-Wye),
+and of the fierce brood that they reared—are of extraordinary interest.
+His impressions of the men and events of his time, his fund of anecdotes
+and _bon mots_, his references to trivial matters, which more dignified
+writers would never deign to mention, his sprightly and sometimes
+malicious gossip, invest his period with a reality which the greatest of
+fiction-writers has failed to rival.  Gerald lived in the days of
+chivalry, days which have been crowned with a halo of deathless romance
+by the author of “Ivanhoe” and the “Talisman.”  He knew and was intimate
+with all the great actors of the time.  He had lived in the Paris of St.
+Louis and Philip Augustus, and was never tired of exalting the House of
+Capet over the tyrannical and bloodthirsty House of Anjou.  He had no
+love of England, for her Plantagenet kings or her Saxon serfs.  During
+the French invasion in the time of King John his sympathies were openly
+with the Dauphin as against the “brood of vipers,” who were equally alien
+to English soil.  For the Saxon, indeed, he felt the twofold hatred of
+Welshman and Norman.  One of his opponents is denounced to the Pope as an
+“untriwe Sax,” and the Saxons are described as the slaves of the Normans,
+the mere hewers of wood and drawers of water for their conquerors.  He
+met Innocent III., the greatest of Popes, in familiar converse, he jested
+and gossiped with him in slippered ease, he made him laugh at his endless
+stories of the glory of Wales, the iniquities of the Angevins, and the
+bad Latin of Archbishop Walter.  He knew Richard Cœur-de-Lion, the flower
+of chivalry, and saw him as he was and “not through a glass darkly.”  He
+knew John, the cleverest and basest of his house.  He knew and loved
+Stephen Langton, the precursor of a long line of statesmen who have made
+English liberty broad—based upon the people’s will.  He was a friend of
+St. Hugh of Lincoln, the sweetest and purest spirit in the Anglican
+Church of the Middle Ages, the one man who could disarm the wrath of the
+fierce king with a smile; and he was the friend and patron of Robert
+Grosstete, afterwards the great Bishop of Lincoln.  He lived much in
+company with Ranulph de Glanville, the first English jurist, and he has
+“Boswellised” some of his conversations with him.  He was intimate with
+Archbishop Baldwin, the saintly prelate who laid down his life in the
+Third Crusade on the burning plains of Palestine, heart-broken at the
+unbridled wickedness of the soldiers of the Cross.  He was the near
+kinsman and confidant of the Cambro-Normans, who, landing in Leinster in
+1165, effected what may be described as the first conquest of Ireland.
+There was scarcely a man of note in his day whom he had not seen and
+conversed with, or of whom he does not relate some piquant story.  He had
+travelled much, and had observed closely.  Probably the most valuable of
+all his works, from the strictly historical point of view, are the
+“Itinerary” and “Description of Wales,” which are reprinted in the
+present volume. {0j}  Here he is impartial in his evidence, and judicial
+in his decisions.  If he errs at all, it is not through racial prejudice.
+“I am sprung,” he once told the Pope in a letter, “from the princes of
+Wales and from the barons of the Marches, and when I see injustice in
+either race, I hate it.”
+
+The text is that of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, who published an English
+translation, chiefly from the texts of Camden and Wharton, in 1806.  The
+valuable historical notes have been curtailed, as being too elaborate for
+such a volume as this, and a few notes have been added by the present
+editor.  These will be found within brackets.  Hoare’s translation, and
+also translations (edited by Mr. Foster) of the Irish books have been
+published in Bohn’s Antiquarian Library.
+
+The first of the seven volumes of the Latin text of Gerald, published in
+the Rolls Series, appeared in 1861.  The first four volumes were edited
+by Professor Brewer; the next two by Mr. Dimmock; and the seventh by
+Professor Freeman.
+
+                                                     W. LLEWELYN WILLIAMS.
+
+_January_ 1908.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+The following is a list of the more important of the works of Gerald:—
+
+  Topographia Hibernica, Expugnatio Hibernica, Itinerarium Kambriæ,
+  Descriptio Kambriæ, Gemma Ecclesiastica, Libellus Invectionum, De Rebus
+  a se Gestis, Dialogus de jure et statu Menevensis Ecclesiæ, De
+  Instructione Principum, De Legendis Sanctorum, Symbolum Electorum.
+
+
+
+
+FIRST PREFACE
+TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY
+
+
+AS the times are affected by the changes of circumstances, so are the
+minds of men influenced by different manners and customs.  The satirist
+[Persius] exclaims,
+
+    “Mille hominum species et mentis discolor usus;
+    Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.”
+
+    “Nature is ever various in her name;
+    Each has a different will, and few the same.”
+
+The comic poet also says, “_Quot capita tot sententiæ_, _suus cuique mos
+est_.”  “As many men, so many minds, each has his way.”  Young soldiers
+exult in war, and pleaders delight in the gown; others aspire after
+riches, and think them the supreme good.  Some approve Galen, some
+Justinian.  Those who are desirous of honours follow the court, and from
+their ambitious pursuits meet with more mortification than satisfaction.
+Some, indeed, but very few, take pleasure in the liberal arts, amongst
+whom we cannot but admire logicians, who, when they have made only a
+trifling progress, are as much enchanted with the images of Dialectics,
+as if they were listening to the songs of the Syrens.
+
+But among so many species of men, where are to be found divine poets?
+Where the noble assertors of morals?  Where the masters of the Latin
+tongue?  Who in the present times displays lettered eloquence, either in
+history or poetry?  Who, I say, in our own age, either builds a system of
+ethics, or consigns illustrious actions to immortality?  Literary fame,
+which used to be placed in the highest rank, is now, because of the
+depravity of the times, tending to ruin and degraded to the lowest, so
+that persons attached to study are at present not only not imitated nor
+venerated, but even detested.  “Happy indeed would be the arts,” observes
+Fabius, “if artists alone judged of the arts;” but, as Sydonius says, “it
+is a fixed principle in the human mind, that they who are ignorant of the
+arts despise the artist.”
+
+But to revert to our subject.  Which, I ask, have rendered more service
+to the world, the arms of Marius or the verses of Virgil?  The sword of
+Marius has rusted, while the fame of him who wrote the Æneid is immortal;
+and although in his time letters were honoured by lettered persons, yet
+from his own pen we find,
+
+             “— — tantum
+    Carmina nostra valent tela inter Martia, quantum
+    Chaonias dicunt, aquila veniente, columbas.”
+
+Who would hesitate in deciding which are more profitable, the works of
+St. Jerom, or the riches of Crœsus? but where now shine the gold and
+silver of Crœsus? whilst the world is instructed by the example and
+enlightened by the learning of the poor cœnobite.  Yet even he, through
+envy, suffered stripes and contumely at Rome, although his character was
+so illustrious; and at length being driven beyond the seas, found a
+refuge for his studies in the solitude of Bethlehem.  Thus it appears,
+that gold and arms may support us in this life, but avail nothing after
+death; and that letters through envy profit nothing in this world, but,
+like a testament, acquire an immortal value from the seal of death.
+
+According to the poet,
+
+    “Pascitur in vivis livor, post fata quiescit;
+          Cum suus ex merito quemque tuetur honor.”
+
+And also
+
+    “Denique si quis adhuc prætendit nubila, livor
+    Occidet, et meriti post me referentur honores.”
+
+Those who by artifice endeavour to acquire or preserve the reputation of
+abilities or ingenuity, while they abound in the words of others, have
+little cause to boast of their own inventions.  For the composers of that
+polished language, in which such various cases as occur in the great body
+of law are treated with such an appropriate elegance of style, must ever
+stand forward in the first ranks of praise.  I should indeed have said,
+that the authors of refined language, not the hearers only, the
+inventors, not the reciters, are most worthy of commendation.  You will
+find, however, that the practices of the court and of the schools are
+extremely similar; as well in the subtleties they employ to lead you
+forward, as in the steadiness with which they generally maintain their
+own positions.  Yet it is certain that the knowledge of logic (the
+_acumen_, if I may so express it, of all other sciences as well as arts)
+is very useful, when restricted within proper bounds; whilst the court
+(_i.e._ courtly language), excepting to sycophants or ambitious men, is
+by no means necessary.  For if you are successful at court, ambition
+never wholly quits its hold till satiated, and allures and draws you
+still closer; but if your labour is thrown away, you still continue the
+pursuit, and, together with your substance, lose your time, the greatest
+and most irretrievable of all losses.  There is likewise some resemblance
+between the court and the game of dice, as the poet observes:—
+
+    “Sic ne perdiderit non cessat perdere lusor,
+          Dum revocat cupidas alea blanda manus;”
+
+which, by substituting the word _curia_ for _alea_, may be applied to the
+court.  This further proof of their resemblance may be added; that as the
+chances of the dice and court are not productive of any real delight, so
+they are equally distributed to the worthy and the unworthy.
+
+Since, therefore, among so many species of men, each follows his own
+inclination, and each is actuated by different desires, a regard for
+posterity has induced me to choose the study of composition; and, as this
+life is temporary and mutable, it is grateful to live in the memory of
+future ages, and to be immortalized by fame; for to toil after that which
+produces envy in life, but glory after death, is a sure indication of an
+elevated mind.  Poets and authors indeed aspire after immortality, but do
+not reject any present advantages that may offer.
+
+I formerly completed with vain and fruitless labour the Topography of
+Ireland for its companion, the king Henry the Second, and Vaticinal
+History, for Richard of Poitiou, his son, and, I wish I were not
+compelled to add, his successor in vice; princes little skilled in
+letters, and much engaged in business.  To you, illustrious Stephen,
+archbishop of Canterbury, equally commendable for your learning and
+religion, I now dedicate the account of our meritorious journey through
+the rugged provinces of Cambria, written in a scholastic style, and
+divided into two parts.  For as virtue loves itself, and detests what is
+contrary to it, so I hope you will consider whatever I may have written
+in commendation of your late venerable and eminent predecessor, with no
+less affection than if it related to yourself.  To you also, when
+completed, I destine my treatise on the Instruction of a Prince, if,
+amidst your religious and worldly occupations, you can find leisure for
+the perusal of it.  For I purpose to submit these and other fruits of my
+diligence to be tasted by you at your discretion, each in its proper
+order; hoping that, if my larger undertakings do not excite your
+interest, my smaller works may at least merit your approbation,
+conciliate your favour, and call forth my gratitude towards you; who,
+unmindful of worldly affections, do not partially distribute your
+bounties to your family and friends, but to letters and merit; you, who,
+in the midst of such great and unceasing contests between the crown and
+the priesthood, stand forth almost singly the firm and faithful friend of
+the British church; you, who, almost the only one duly elected, fulfil
+the scriptural designation of the episcopal character.  It is not,
+however, by bearing a cap, by placing a cushion, by shielding off the
+rain, or by wiping the dust, even if there should be none, in the midst
+of a herd of flatterers, that I attempt to conciliate your favour, but by
+my writings.  To you, therefore, rare, noble, and illustrious man, on
+whom nature and art have showered down whatever becomes your supereminent
+situation, I dedicate my works; but if I fail in this mode of
+conciliating your favour, and if your prayers and avocations should not
+allow you sufficient time to read them, I shall consider the honour of
+letters as vanished, and in hope of its revival I shall inscribe my
+writings to posterity.
+
+
+
+
+SECOND PREFACE
+TO THE SAME PRELATE
+
+
+SINCE those things, which are known to have been done through a laudable
+devotion, are not unworthily extolled with due praises; and since the
+mind, when relaxed, loses its energy, and the torpor of sloth enervates
+the understanding, as iron acquires rust for want of use, and stagnant
+waters become foul; lest my pen should be injured by the rust of
+idleness, I have thought good to commit to writing the devout visitation
+which Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, made throughout Wales; and to
+hand down, as it were in a mirror, through you, O illustrious Stephen, to
+posterity, the difficult places through which we passed, the names of
+springs and torrents, the witty sayings, the toils and incidents of the
+journey, the memorable events of ancient and modern times, and the
+natural history and description of the country; lest my study should
+perish through idleness, or the praise of these things be lost by
+silence.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                BOOK I
+CHAPTER                                                           PAGE
+         I.  Journey through Hereford and Radnor                    11
+        II.  Journey through Hay and Brecheinia                     18
+       III.  Ewyas and Llanthoni                                    34
+        IV.  The Journey by Coed Grono and Abergevenni              44
+         V.  Of the Progress by the Castle of Usk and the           50
+             Town of Caerleon
+        VI.  Newport and Caerdyf                                    56
+       VII.  The See of Landaf and Monastery of Margan, and         61
+             the Remarkable Things in those Parts
+      VIII.  Passage of the Rivers Avon and Neth—and of             65
+             Abertawe and Goer
+        IX.  Passage over the Rivers Lochor and Wendraeth;          71
+             and of Cydweli
+         X.  Tywy River—Caermardyn—Monastery of Albelande           73
+        XI.  Of Haverford and Ros                                   76
+       XII.  Of Penbroch                                            82
+      XIII.  Of the Progress by Camros and Niwegal                  91
+                               BOOK II
+         I.  Of the See of Saint David’s                            95
+        II.  Of the Journey by Cemmeis—the Monastery of St.        102
+             Dogmael
+       III.  Of the River Teivi—Cardigan, and Emelyn               105
+        IV.  Of the Journey by Pont Stephen, the Abbey of          109
+             Stratflur, Landewi Brevi, and Lhanpadarn Vawr
+         V.  Of the River Devi, and the Land of the Sons of        113
+             Conan
+        VI.  Passage of traeth mawr and traeth bachan, and         115
+             of nevyn, carnarvon, and bangor
+       VII.  The island of mona                                    118
+      VIII.  Passage of the river conwy in a boat, and of          125
+             dinas emrys
+        IX.  Of the mountains of eryri                             127
+         X.  Of the passage by deganwy and ruthlan, and the        128
+             see of lanelwy, and of coleshulle
+        XI.  Of the passage of the river dee, and of               131
+             chester
+       XII.  Of the journey by the white monastery,                133
+             oswaldestree, powys, and shrewsbury
+      XIII.  Of the journey by wenloch, brumfeld, the              137
+             castle of ludlow, and leominster, to hereford
+       XIV.  A description of baldwin, archbishop of               139
+             canterbury
+
+THE ITINERARY THROUGH WALES
+BOOK I
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+JOURNEY THROUGH HEREFORD AND RADNOR
+
+
+IN the year 1188 from the incarnation of our Lord, Urban the Third {11}
+being the head of the apostolic see; Frederick, emperor of Germany and
+king of the Romans; Isaac, emperor of Constantinople; Philip, the son of
+Louis, reigning in France; Henry the Second in England; William in
+Sicily; Bela in Hungary; and Guy in Palestine: in that very year, when
+Saladin, prince of the Egyptians and Damascenes, by a signal victory
+gained possession of the kingdom of Jerusalem; Baldwin, archbishop of
+Canterbury, a venerable man, distinguished for his learning and sanctity,
+journeying from England for the service of the holy cross, entered Wales
+near the borders of Herefordshire.
+
+The archbishop proceeded to Radnor, {12a} on Ash Wednesday (_Caput
+Jejunii_), accompanied by Ranulph de Glanville, privy counsellor and
+justiciary of the whole kingdom, and there met Rhys, {12b} son of
+Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, and many other noble personages of those
+parts; where a sermon being preached by the archbishop, upon the subject
+of the Crusades, and explained to the Welsh by an interpreter, the author
+of this Itinerary, impelled by the urgent importunity and promises of the
+king, and the persuasions of the archbishop and the justiciary, arose the
+first, and falling down at the feet of the holy man, devoutly took the
+sign of the cross.  His example was instantly followed by Peter, bishop
+of St. David’s, {12c} a monk of the abbey of Cluny, and then by Eineon,
+son of Eineon Clyd, {12d} prince of Elvenia, and many other persons.
+Eineon rising up, said to Rhys, whose daughter he had married, “My father
+and lord! with your permission I hasten to revenge the injury offered to
+the great father of all.”  Rhys himself was so fully determined upon the
+holy peregrination, as soon as the archbishop should enter his
+territories on his return, that for nearly fifteen days he was employed
+with great solicitude in making the necessary preparations for so distant
+a journey; till his wife, and, according to the common vicious licence of
+the country, his relation in the fourth degree, Guendolena, (Gwenllian),
+daughter of Madoc, prince of Powys, by female artifices diverted him
+wholly from his noble purpose; since, as Solomon says, “A man’s heart
+deviseth his way, but the Lord directeth his steps.”  As Rhys before his
+departure was conversing with his friends concerning the things he had
+heard, a distinguished young man of his family, by name Gruffydd, and who
+afterwards took the cross, is said thus to have answered: “What man of
+spirit can refuse to undertake this journey, since, amongst all
+imaginable inconveniences, nothing worse can happen to any one than to
+return.”
+
+On the arrival of Rhys in his own territory, certain canons of Saint
+David’s, through a zeal for their church, having previously secured the
+interest of some of the prince’s courtiers, waited on Rhys, and
+endeavoured by every possible suggestion to induce him not to permit the
+archbishop to proceed into the interior parts of Wales, and particularly
+to the metropolitan see of Saint David’s (a thing hitherto unheard of),
+at the same time asserting that if he should continue his intended
+journey, the church would in future experience great prejudice, and with
+difficulty would recover its ancient dignity and honour.  Although these
+pleas were most strenuously urged, the natural kindness and civility of
+the prince would not suffer them to prevail, lest by prohibiting the
+archbishop’s progress, he might appear to wound his feelings.
+
+Early on the following morning, after the celebration of mass, and the
+return of Ranulph de Glanville to England, we came to Cruker Castle, {13}
+two miles distant from Radnor, where a strong and valiant youth named
+Hector, conversing with the archbishop about taking the cross, said, “If
+I had the means of getting provisions for one day, and of keeping fast on
+the next, I would comply with your advice;” on the following day,
+however, he took the cross.  The same evening, Malgo, son of Cadwallon,
+prince of Melenia, after a short but efficacious exhortation from the
+archbishop, and not without the tears and lamentations of his friends,
+was marked with the sign of the cross.
+
+But here it is proper to mention what happened during the reign of king
+Henry the First to the lord of the castle of Radnor, in the adjoining
+territory of Builth, {14a} who had entered the church of Saint Avan
+(which is called in the British language Llan Avan), {14b} and, without
+sufficient caution or reverence, had passed the night there with his
+hounds.  Arising early in the morning, according to the custom of
+hunters, he found his hounds mad, and himself struck blind.  After a
+long, dark, and tedious existence, he was conveyed to Jerusalem, happily
+taking care that his inward sight should not in a similar manner be
+extinguished; and there being accoutred, and led to the field of battle
+on horseback, he made a spirited attack upon the enemies of the faith,
+and, being mortally wounded, closed his life with honour.
+
+Another circumstance which happened in these our days, in the province of
+Warthrenion, {14c} distant from hence only a few furlongs, is not
+unworthy of notice.  Eineon, lord of that district, and son-in-law to
+prince Rhys, who was much addicted to the chase, having on a certain day
+forced the wild beasts from their coverts, one of his attendants killed a
+hind with an arrow, as she was springing forth from the wood, which,
+contrary to the nature of her sex, was found to bear horns of twelve
+years’ growth, and was much fatter than a stag, in the haunches as well
+as in every other part.  On account of the singularity of this
+circumstance, the head and horns of this strange animal were destined as
+a present to king Henry the Second.  This event is the more remarkable,
+as the man who shot the hind suddenly lost the use of his right eye, and
+being at the same time seized with a paralytic complaint, remained in a
+weak and impotent state until the time of his death.
+
+In this same province of Warthrenion, and in the church of Saint
+Germanus, {15a} there is a staff of Saint Cyric, {15b} covered on all
+sides with gold and silver, and resembling in its upper part the form of
+a cross; its efficacy has been proved in many cases, but particularly in
+the removal of glandular and strumous swellings; insomuch that all
+persons afflicted with these complaints, on a devout application to the
+staff, with the oblation of one penny, are restored to health.  But it
+happened in these our days, that a strumous patient on presenting one
+halfpenny to the staff, the humour subsided only in the middle; but when
+the oblation was completed by the other halfpenny, an entire cure was
+accomplished.  Another person also coming to the staff with the promise
+of a penny, was cured; but not fulfilling his engagement on the day
+appointed, he relapsed into his former disorder; in order, however, to
+obtain pardon for his offence, he tripled the offering by presenting
+three-pence, and thus obtained a complete cure.
+
+At Elevein, in the church of Glascum, {16a} is a portable bell, endowed
+with great virtues, called Bangu, {16b} and said to have belonged to
+Saint David.  A certain woman secretly conveyed this bell to her husband,
+who was confined in the castle of Raidergwy, {16c} near Warthrenion,
+(which Rhys, son of Gruffydd, had lately built) for the purpose of his
+deliverance.  The keepers of the castle not only refused to liberate him
+for this consideration, but seized and detained the bell; and in the same
+night, by divine vengeance, the whole town, except the wall on which the
+bell hung, was consumed by fire.
+
+The church of Luel, {16d} in the neighbourhood of Brecheinoc
+(_Brechinia_), was burned, also in our time, by the enemy, and everything
+destroyed, except one small box, in which the consecrated host was
+deposited.
+
+It came to pass also in the province of Elvenia, which is separated from
+Hay by the river Wye, in the night in which king Henry I. expired, that
+two pools {17} of no small extent, the one natural, the other artificial,
+suddenly burst their bounds; the latter, by its precipitate course down
+the declivities, emptied itself; but the former, with its fish and
+contents, obtained a permanent situation in a valley about two miles
+distant.  In Normandy, a few days before the death of Henry II., the fish
+of a certain pool near Seez, five miles from the castle of Exme, fought
+during the night so furiously with each other, both in the water and out
+of it, that the neighbouring people were attracted by the noise to the
+spot; and so desperate was the conflict, that scarcely a fish was found
+alive in the morning; thus, by a wonderful and unheard-of prognostic,
+foretelling the death of one by that of many.
+
+But the borders of Wales sufficiently remember and abhor the great and
+enormous excesses which, from ambitious usurpation of territory, have
+arisen amongst brothers and relations in the districts of Melenyth,
+Elvein, and Warthrenion, situated between the Wye and the Severn.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+JOURNEY THROUGH HAY AND BRECHEINIA
+
+
+HAVING crossed the river Wye, we proceeded towards Brecheinoc, and on
+preaching a sermon at Hay, {18a} we observed some amongst the multitude,
+who were to be signed with the cross (leaving their garments in the hands
+of their friends or wives, who endeavoured to keep them back), fly for
+refuge to the archbishop in the castle.  Early in the morning we began
+our journey to Aberhodni, and the word of the Lord being preached at
+Landeu, {18b} we there spent the night.  The castle and chief town of the
+province, situated where the river Hodni joins the river Usk, is called
+Aberhodni; {18c} and every place where one river falls into another is
+called Aber in the British tongue.  Landeu signifies the church of God.
+The archdeacon of that place (Giraldus) presented to the archbishop his
+work on the Topography of Ireland, which he graciously received, and
+either read or heard a part of it read attentively every day during his
+journey; and on his return to England completed the perusal of it.
+
+I have determined not to omit mentioning those occurrences worthy of note
+which happened in these parts in our days.  It came to pass before that
+great war, in which nearly all this province was destroyed by the sons of
+Jestin, {19a} that the large lake, and the river Leveni, {19b} which
+flows from it into the Wye, opposite Glasbyry, {19c} were tinged with a
+deep green colour.  The old people of the country were consulted, and
+answered, that a short time before the great desolation {19d} caused by
+Howel, son of Meredyth, the water had been coloured in a similar manner.
+About the same time, a chaplain, whose name was Hugo, being engaged to
+officiate at the chapel of Saint Nicholas, in the castle of Aberhodni,
+saw in a dream a venerable man standing near him, and saying, “Tell thy
+lord William de Braose, {19e} who has the audacity to retain the property
+granted to the chapel of Saint Nicholas for charitable uses, these words:
+‘The public treasury takes away that which Christ does not receive; and
+thou wilt then give to an impious soldier, what thou wilt not give to a
+priest.’”  This vision having been repeated three times, he went to the
+archdeacon of the place, at Landeu, and related to him what had happened.
+The archdeacon immediately knew them to be the words of Augustine; and
+shewing him that part of his writings where they were found, explained to
+him the case to which they applied.  He reproaches persons who held back
+tithes and other ecclesiastical dues; and what he there threatens,
+certainly in a short time befell this withholder of them: for in our time
+we have duly and undoubtedly seen, that princes who have usurped
+ecclesiastical benefices (and particularly king Henry the Second, who
+laboured under this vice more than others), have profusely squandered the
+treasures of the church, and given away to hired soldiers what in justice
+should have been given only to priests.
+
+Yet something is to be said in favour of the aforesaid William de Braose,
+although he greatly offended in this particular (since nothing human is
+perfect, and to have knowledge of all things, and in no point to err, is
+an attribute of God, not of man); for he always placed the name of the
+Lord before his sentences, saying, “Let this be done in the name of the
+Lord; let that be done by God’s will; if it shall please God, or if God
+grant leave; it shall be so by the grace of God.”  We learn from Saint
+Paul, that everything ought thus to be committed and referred to the will
+of God.  On taking leave of his brethren, he says, “I will return to you
+again, if God permit;” and Saint James uses this expression, “If the Lord
+will, and we live,” in order to show that all things ought to be
+submitted to the divine disposal.  The letters also which William de
+Braose, as a rich and powerful man, was accustomed to send to different
+parts, were loaded, or rather honoured, with words expressive of the
+divine indulgence to a degree not only tiresome to his scribe, but even
+to his auditors; for as a reward to each of his scribes for concluding
+his letters with the words, “by divine assistance,” he gave annually a
+piece of gold, in addition to their stipend.  When on a journey he saw a
+church or a cross, although in the midst of conversation either with his
+inferiors or superiors, from an excess of devotion, he immediately began
+to pray, and when he had finished his prayers, resumed his conversation.
+On meeting boys in the way, he invited them by a previous salutation to
+salute him, that the blessings of these innocents, thus extorted, might
+be returned to him.  His wife, Matilda de Saint Valery, observed all
+these things: a prudent and chaste woman; a woman placed with propriety
+at the head of her house, equally attentive to the economical disposal of
+her property within doors, as to the augmentation of it without; both of
+whom, I hope, by their devotion obtained temporal happiness and grace, as
+well as the glory of eternity.
+
+It happened also that the hand of a boy, who was endeavouring to take
+some young pigeons from a nest, in the church of Saint David of Llanvaes,
+{21} adhered to the stone on which he leaned, through the miraculous
+vengeance, perhaps, of that saint, in favour of the birds who had taken
+refuge in his church; and when the boy, attended by his friends and
+parents, had for three successive days and nights offered up his prayers
+and supplications before the holy altar of the church, his hand was, on
+the third day, liberated by the same divine power which had so
+miraculously fastened it.  We saw this same boy at Newbury, in England,
+now advanced in years, presenting himself before David the Second, {22a}
+bishop of Saint David’s, and certifying to him the truth of this
+relation, because it had happened in his diocese.  The stone is preserved
+in the church to this day among the relics, and the marks of the five
+fingers appear impressed on the flint as though it were in wax.
+
+A small miracle happened at St. Edmundsbury to a poor woman, who often
+visited the shrine of the saint, under the mask of devotion; not with the
+design of giving, but of taking something away, namely, the silver and
+gold offerings, which, by a curious kind of theft, she licked up by
+kissing, and carried away in her mouth.  But in one of these attempts her
+tongue and lips adhered to the altar, when by divine interposition she
+was detected, and openly disgorged the secret theft.  Many persons, both
+Jews and Christians, expressing their astonishment, flocked to the place,
+where for the greater part of the day she remained motionless, that no
+possible doubt might be entertained of the miracle.
+
+In the north of England beyond the Humber, in the church of Hovedene,
+{22b} the concubine of the rector incautiously sat down on the tomb of
+St. Osana, sister of king Osred, {22c} which projected like a wooden
+seat; on wishing to retire, she could not be removed, until the people
+came to her assistance; her clothes were rent, her body was laid bare,
+and severely afflicted with many strokes of discipline, even till the
+blood flowed; nor did she regain her liberty, until by many tears and
+sincere repentance she had showed evident signs of compunction.
+
+What miraculous power hath not in our days been displayed by the psalter
+of Quindreda, sister of St. Kenelm, {23a} by whose instigation he was
+killed?  On the vigil of the saint, when, according to custom, great
+multitudes of women resorted to the feast at Winchelcumbe, {23b} the
+under butler of that convent committed fornication with one of them
+within the precincts of the monastery.  This same man on the following
+day had the audacity to carry the psalter in the procession of the relics
+of the saints; and on his return to the choir, after the solemnity, the
+psalter stuck to his hands.  Astonished and greatly confounded, and at
+length calling to his mind his crime on the preceding day, he made
+confession, and underwent penance; and being assisted by the prayers of
+the brotherhood, and having shown signs of sincere contrition, he was at
+length liberated from the miraculous bond.  That book was held in great
+veneration; because, when the body of St. Kenelm was carried forth, and
+the multitude cried out, “He is the martyr of God! truly he is the martyr
+of God!”  Quindreda, conscious and guilty of the murder of her brother,
+answered, “He is as truly the martyr of God as it is true that my eyes be
+on that psalter;” for, as she was reading the psalter, both her eyes were
+miraculously torn from her head, and fell on the book, where the marks of
+the blood yet remain.
+
+Moreover I must not be silent concerning the collar (_torques_) which
+they call St. Canauc’s; {24} for it is most like to gold in weight,
+nature, and colour; it is in four pieces wrought round, joined together
+artificially, and clefted as it were in the middle, with a dog’s head,
+the teeth standing outward; it is esteemed by the inhabitants so powerful
+a relic, that no man dares swear falsely when it is laid before him: it
+bears the marks of some severe blows, as if made with an iron hammer; for
+a certain man, as it is said, endeavouring to break the collar for the
+sake of the gold, experienced the divine vengeance, was deprived of his
+eyesight, and lingered the remainder of his days in darkness.
+
+A similar circumstance concerning the horn of St. Patrick (not golden
+indeed, but of brass [probably bronze], which lately was brought into
+these parts from Ireland) excites our admiration.  The miraculous power
+of this relic first appeared with a terrible example in that country,
+through the foolish and absurd blowing of Bernard, a priest, as is set
+forth in our Topography of Ireland.  Both the laity and clergy in
+Ireland, Scotland, and Wales held in such great veneration portable
+bells, and staves crooked at the top, and covered with gold, silver, or
+brass, and similar relics of the saints, that they were much more afraid
+of swearing falsely by them than by the gospels; because, from some
+hidden and miraculous power with which they are gifted, and the vengeance
+of the saint to whom they are particularly pleasing, their despisers and
+transgressors are severely punished.  The most remarkable circumstance
+attending this horn is, that whoever places the wider end of it to his
+ear will hear a sweet sound and melody united, such as ariseth from a
+harp gently touched.
+
+In our days a strange occurrence happened in the same district.  A wild
+sow, which by chance had been suckled by a bitch famous for her nose,
+became, on growing up, so wonderfully active in the pursuit of wild
+animals, that in the faculty of scent she was greatly superior to dogs,
+who are assisted by natural instinct, as well as by human art; an
+argument that man (as well as every other animal) contracts the nature of
+the female who nurses him.  Another prodigious event came to pass nearly
+at the same time.  A soldier, whose name was Gilbert Hagernel, after an
+illness of nearly three years, and the severe pains as of a woman in
+labour, in the presence of many people, voided a calf.  A portent of some
+new and unusual event, or rather the punishment attendant on some
+atrocious crime.  It appears also from the ancient and authentic records
+of those parts, that during the time St. Elwitus {25a} led the life of a
+hermit at Llanhamelach, {25b} the mare that used to carry his provisions
+to him was covered by a stag, and produced an animal of wonderful speed,
+resembling a horse before and a stag behind.
+
+Bernard de Newmarch {26a} was the first of the Normans who acquired by
+conquest from the Welsh this province, which was divided into three
+cantreds. {26b}  He married the daughter of Nest, daughter of Gruffydd,
+son of Llewelyn, who, by his tyranny, for a long time had oppressed
+Wales; his wife took her mother’s name of Nest, which the English
+transmuted into Anne; by whom he had children, one of whom, named Mahel,
+a distinguished soldier, was thus unjustly deprived of his paternal
+inheritance.  His mother, in violation of the marriage contract, held an
+adulterous intercourse with a certain knight; on the discovery of which,
+the son met the knight returning in the night from his mother, and having
+inflicted on him a severe corporal punishment, and mutilated him, sent
+him away with great disgrace.  The mother, alarmed at the confusion which
+this event caused, and agitated with grief, breathed nothing but revenge.
+She therefore went to king Henry I., and declared with assertions more
+vindictive than true, and corroborated by an oath, that her son Mahel was
+not the son of Bernard, but of another person with whom she had been
+secretly connected.  Henry, on account of this oath, or rather perjury,
+and swayed more by his inclination than by reason, gave away her eldest
+daughter, whom she owned as the legitimate child of Bernard, in marriage
+to Milo Fitz-Walter, {27} constable of Gloucester, with the honour of
+Brecheinoc as a portion; and he was afterwards created earl of Hereford
+by the empress Matilda, daughter of the said king.  By this wife he had
+five celebrated warriors; Roger, Walter, Henry, William, and Mahel; all
+of whom, by divine vengeance, or by fatal misfortunes, came to untimely
+ends; and yet each of them, except William, succeeded to the paternal
+inheritance, but left no issue.  Thus this woman (not deviating from the
+nature of her sex), in order to satiate her anger and revenge, with the
+heavy loss of modesty, and with the disgrace of infamy, by the same act
+deprived her son of his patrimony, and herself of honour.  Nor is it
+wonderful if a woman follows her innate bad disposition: for it is
+written in Ecclesiastes, “I have found one good man out of a thousand,
+but not one good woman;” and in Ecclesiasticus, “There is no head above
+the head of a serpent; and there is no wrath above the wrath of a woman;”
+and again, “Small is the wickedness of man compared to the wickedness of
+woman.”  And in the same manner, as we may gather grapes off thorns, or
+figs off thistles, Tully, describing the nature of women, says, “Men,
+perhaps, for the sake of some advantage will commit one crime; but woman,
+to gratify one inclination, will not scruple to perpetrate all sorts of
+wickedness.”  Thus Juvenal, speaking of women, say,
+
+    “— Nihil est audacior illis
+    Deprensis, iram atque animos a crimine sumunt.
+    — Mulier sævissima tunc est
+    Cum stimulos animo pudor admovet.
+    — colllige, quod vindicta
+    Nemo magis gaudet quam fœmina.”
+
+But of the five above-mentioned brothers and sons of earl Milo, the
+youngest but one, and the last in the inheritance, was the most
+remarkable for his inhumanity; he persecuted David II., bishop of St.
+David’s, to such a degree, by attacking his possessions, lands, and
+vassals, that he was compelled to retire as an exile from the district of
+Brecheinoc into England, or to some other parts of his diocese.
+Meanwhile, Mahel, being hospitably entertained by Walter de Clifford,
+{28a} in the castle of Brendlais, {28b} the house was by accident burned
+down, and he received a mortal blow by a stone falling from the principal
+tower on his head: upon which he instantly dispatched messengers to recal
+the bishop, and exclaimed with a lamentable voice, “O, my father and high
+priest, your saint has taken most cruel vengeance of me, not waiting the
+conversion of a sinner, but hastening his death and overthrow.”  Having
+often repeated similar expressions, and bitterly lamented his situation,
+he thus ended his tyranny and life together; the first year of his
+government not having elapsed.
+
+A powerful and noble personage, by name Brachanus, was in ancient times
+the ruler of the province of Brecheinoc, and from him it derived this
+name.  The British histories testify that he had four-and-twenty
+daughters, all of whom, dedicated from their youth to religious
+observances, happily ended their lives in sanctity.  There are many
+churches in Wales distinguished by their names, one of which, situated on
+the summit of a hill, near Brecheinoc, and not far from the castle of
+Aberhodni, is called the church of St. Almedda, {29a} after the name of
+the holy virgin, who, refusing there the hand of an earthly spouse,
+married the Eternal King, and triumphed in a happy martyrdom; to whose
+honour a solemn feast is annually held in the beginning of August, and
+attended by a large concourse of people from a considerable distance,
+when those persons who labour under various diseases, through the merits
+of the Blessed Virgin, received their wished-for health.  The
+circumstances which occur at every anniversary appear to me remarkable.
+You may see men or girls, now in the church, now in the churchyard, now
+in the dance, which is led round the churchyard with a song, on a sudden
+falling on the ground as in a trance, then jumping up as in a frenzy, and
+representing with their hands and feet, before the people, whatever work
+they have unlawfully done on feast days; you may see one man put his hand
+to the plough, and another, as it were, goad on the oxen, mitigating
+their sense of labour, by the usual rude song: {29b} one man imitating
+the profession of a shoemaker; another, that of a tanner.  Now you may
+see a girl with a distaff, drawing out the thread, and winding it again
+on the spindle; another walking, and arranging the threads for the web;
+another, as it were, throwing the shuttle, and seeming to weave.  On
+being brought into the church, and led up to the altar with their
+oblations, you will be astonished to see them suddenly awakened, and
+coming to themselves.  Thus, by the divine mercy, which rejoices in the
+conversion, not in the death, of sinners, many persons from the
+conviction of their senses, are on these feast days corrected and mended.
+
+This country sufficiently abounds with grain, and if there is any
+deficiency, it is amply supplied from the neighbouring parts of England;
+it is well stored with pastures, woods, and wild and domestic animals.
+River-fish are plentiful, supplied by the Usk on one side, and by the Wye
+on the other; each of them produces salmon and trout; but the Wye abounds
+most with the former, the Usk with the latter.  The salmon of the Wye are
+in season during the winter, those of the Usk in summer; but the Wye
+alone produces the fish called umber, {30a} the praise of which is
+celebrated in the works of Ambrosius, as being found in great numbers in
+the rivers near Milan; “What,” says he, “is more beautiful to behold,
+more agreeable to smell, or more pleasant to taste?”  The famous lake of
+Brecheinoc supplies the courntry with pike, perch, excellent trout,
+tench, and eels.  A circumstance concerning this lake, which happened a
+short time before our days, must not be passed over in silence.  “In the
+reign of king Henry I., Gruffydd, {30b} son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, held under
+the king one comot, namely, the fourth part of the cantred of Caoc, {31}
+in the cantref Mawr, which, in title and dignity, was esteemed by the
+Welsh equal to the southern part of Wales, called Deheubarth, that is,
+the right-hand side of Wales.  When Gruffydd, on his return from the
+king’s court, passed near this lake, which at that cold season of the
+year was covered with water-fowl of various sorts, being accompanied by
+Milo, earl of Hereford, and lord of Brecheinoc, and Payn Fitz-John, lord
+of Ewyas, who were at that time secretaries and privy counsellors to the
+king; earl Milo, wishing to draw forth from Gruffydd some discourse
+concerning his innate nobility, rather jocularly than seriously thus
+addressed him: “It is an ancient saying in Wales, that if the natural
+prince of the country, coming to this lake, shall order the birds to
+sing, they will immediately obey him.”  To which Gruffydd, richer in mind
+than in gold, (for though his inheritance was diminished, his ambition
+and dignity still remained), answered, “Do you therefore, who now hold
+the dominion of this land, first give the command;” but he and Payn
+having in vain commanded, and Gruffydd, perceiving that it was necessary
+for him to do so in his turn, dismounted from his horse, and falling on
+his knees towards the east, as if he had been about to engage in battle,
+prostrate on the ground, with his eyes and hands uplifted to heaven,
+poured forth devout prayers to the Lord: at length, rising up, and
+signing his face and forehead with the figure of the cross, he thus
+openly spake: “Almighty God, and Lord Jesus Christ, who knowest all
+things, declare here this day thy power.  If thou hast caused me to
+descend lineally from the natural princes of Wales, I command these birds
+in thy name to declare it;” and immediately the birds, beating the water
+with their wings, began to cry aloud, and proclaim him.  The spectators
+were astonished and confounded; and earl Milo hastily returning with Payn
+Fitz-John to court, related this singular occurrence to the king, who is
+said to have replied, “By the death of Christ (an oath he was accustomed
+to use), it is not a matter of so much wonder; for although by our great
+authority we commit acts of violence and wrong against these people, yet
+they are known to be the rightful inheritors of this land.”
+
+The lake also {32} (according to the testimony of the inhabitants) is
+celebrated for its miracles; for, as we have before observed, it
+sometimes assumed a greenish hue, so in our days it has appeared to be
+tinged with red, not universally, but as if blood flowed partially
+through certain veins and small channels.  Moreover it is sometimes seen
+by the inhabitants covered and adorned with buildings, pastures, gardens,
+and orchards.  In the winter, when it is frozen over, and the surface of
+the water is converted into a shell of ice, it emits a horrible sound
+resembling the moans of many animals collected together; but this,
+perhaps, may be occasioned by the sudden bursting of the shell, and the
+gradual ebullition of the air through imperceptible channels.  This
+country is well sheltered on every side (except the northern) by high
+mountains; on the western by those of cantref Bychan; {33a} on the
+southern, by that range, of which the principal is Cadair Arthur, {33b}
+or the chair of Arthur, so called from two peaks rising up in the form of
+a chair, and which, from its lofty situation, is vulgarly ascribed to
+Arthur, the most distinguished king of the Britons.  A spring of water
+rises on the summit of this mountain, deep, but of a square shape, like a
+well, and although no stream runs from it, trout are said to be sometimes
+found in it.
+
+Being thus sheltered on the south by high mountains, the cooler breezes
+protect this district from the heat of the sun, and, by their natural
+salubrity, render the climate most temperate.  Towards the east are the
+mountains of Talgarth and Ewyas. {34a}  The natives of these parts,
+actuated by continual enmities and implacable hatred, are perpetually
+engaged in bloody contests.  But we leave to others to describe the great
+and enormous excesses, which in our time have been here committed, with
+regard to marriages, divorces, and many other circumstances of cruelty
+and oppression.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+EWYAS AND LLANTHONI
+
+
+IN the deep vale of Ewyas, {34b} which is about an arrow-shot broad,
+encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, stands the church of Saint
+John the Baptist, covered with lead, and built of wrought stone; and,
+considering the nature of the place, not unhandsomely constructed, on the
+very spot where the humble chapel of David, the archbishop, had formerly
+stood decorated only with moss and ivy.  A situation truly calculated for
+religion, and more adapted to canonical discipline, than all the
+monasteries of the British isle.  It was founded by two hermits, in
+honour of the retired life, far removed from the bustle of mankind, in a
+solitary vale watered by the river Hodeni.  From Hodeni it was called
+Lanhodeni, for Lan signifies an ecclesiastical place.  This derivation
+may appear far-fetched, for the name of the place, in Welsh, is
+Nanthodeni.  Nant signifies a running stream, from whence this place is
+still called by the inhabitants Landewi Nanthodeni, {35} or the church of
+Saint David upon the river Hodeni.  The English therefore corruptly call
+it Lanthoni, whereas it should either be called Nanthodeni, that is, the
+brook of the Hodeni, or Lanhodeni, the church upon the Hodeni.  Owing to
+its mountainous situation, the rains are frequent, the winds boisterous,
+and the clouds in winter almost continual.  The air, though heavy, is
+healthy; and diseases are so rare, that the brotherhood, when worn out by
+long toil and affliction during their residence with the daughter,
+retiring to this asylum, and to their mother’s {36a} lap, soon regain
+their long-wished-for health.  For as my Topographical History of Ireland
+testifies, in proportion as we proceed to the eastward, the face of the
+sky is more pure and subtile, and the air more piercing and inclement;
+but as we draw nearer to the westward, the air becomes more cloudy, but
+at the same time is more temperate and healthy.  Here the monks, sitting
+in their cloisters, enjoying the fresh air, when they happen to look up
+towards the horizon, behold the tops of the mountains, as it were,
+touching the heavens, and herds of wild deer feeding on their summits:
+the body of the sun does not become visible above the heights of the
+mountains, even in a clear atmosphere, till about the hour of prime, or a
+little before.  A place truly fitted for contemplation, a happy and
+delightful spot, fully competent, from its first establishment, to supply
+all its own wants, had not the extravagance of English luxury, the pride
+of a sumptuous table, the increasing growth of intemperance and
+ingratitude, added to the negligence of its patrons and prelates, reduced
+it from freedom to servility; and if the step-daughter, no less enviously
+than odiously, had not supplanted her mother.
+
+It seems worthy of remark, that all the priors who were hostile to this
+establishment, died by divine visitation.  William, {36b} who first
+despoiled the place of its herds and storehouses, being deposed by the
+fraternity, forfeited his right of sepulture amongst the priors.  Clement
+seemed to like this place of study and prayer, yet, after the example of
+Heli the priest, as he neither reproved nor restrained his brethren from
+plunder and other offences, he died by a paralytic stroke.  And Roger,
+who was more an enemy to this place than either of his predecessors, and
+openly carried away every thing which they had left behind, wholly
+robbing the church of its books, ornaments, and privileges, was also
+struck with a paralytic affection long before his death, resigned his
+honours, and lingered out the remainder of his days in sickness.
+
+In the reign of king Henry I., when the mother church was as celebrated
+for her affluence as for her sanctity (two qualities which are seldom
+found thus united), the daughter not yet being in existence (and I
+sincerely wish she never had been produced), the fame of so much religion
+attracted hither Roger, bishop of Salisbury, who was at that time prime
+minister; for it is virtue to love virtue, even in another man, and a
+great proof of innate goodness to show a detestation of those vices which
+hitherto have not been avoided.  When he had reflected with admiration on
+the nature of the place, the solitary life of the fraternity, living in
+canonical obedience, and serving God without a murmur or complaint, he
+returned to the king, and related to him what he thought most worthy of
+remark; and after spending the greater part of the day in the praises of
+this place, he finished his panegyric with these words: “Why should I say
+more? the whole treasure of the king and his kingdom would not be
+sufficient to build such a cloister.”  Having held the minds of the king
+and the court for a long time in suspense by this assertion, he at length
+explained the enigma, by saying that he alluded to the cloister of
+mountains, by which this church is on every side surrounded.  But
+William, a knight, who first discovered this place, and his companion
+Ervistus, a priest, having heard, perhaps, as it is written in the
+Fathers, according to the opinion of Jerome, “that the church of Christ
+decreased in virtues as it increased in riches,” were accustomed often
+devoutly to solicit the Lord that this place might never attain great
+possessions.  They were exceedingly concerned when this religious
+foundation began to be enriched by its first lord and patron, Hugh de
+Lacy, {38} and by the lands and ecclesiastical benefices conferred upon
+it by the bounty of others of the faithful: from their predilection to
+poverty, they rejected many offers of manors and churches; and being
+situated in a wild spot, they would not suffer the thick and wooded parts
+of the valley to be cultivated and levelled, lest they should be tempted
+to recede from their heremitical mode of life.
+
+But whilst the establishment of the mother church increased daily in
+riches and endowments, availing herself of the hostile state of the
+country, a rival daughter sprang up at Gloucester, under the protection
+of Milo, earl of Hereford; as if by divine providence, and through the
+merits of the saints and prayers of those holy men (of whom two lie
+buried before the high altar), it were destined that the daughter church
+should be founded in superfluities, whilst the mother continued in that
+laudable state of mediocrity which she had always affected and coveted.
+Let the active therefore reside there, the contemplative here; there the
+pursuit of terrestrial riches, here the love of celestial delights; there
+let them enjoy the concourse of men, here the presence of angels; there
+let the powerful of this world be entertained, here let the poor of
+Christ be relieved; there, I say, let human actions and declamations be
+heard, but here let reading and prayers be heard only in whispers; there
+let opulence, the parent and nurse of vice, increase with cares, here let
+the virtuous and golden mean be all-sufficient.  In both places the
+canonical discipline instituted by Augustine, which is now distinguished
+above all other orders, is observed; for the Benedictines, when their
+wealth was increased by the fervour of charity, and multiplied by the
+bounty of the faithful, under the pretext of a bad dispensation,
+corrupted by gluttony and indulgence an order which in its original state
+of poverty was held in high estimation.  The Cistercian order, derived
+from the former, at first deserved praise and commendation from its
+adhering voluntarily to the original vows of poverty and sanctity: until
+ambition, the blind mother of mischief, unable to fix bounds to
+prosperity, was introduced; for as Seneca says, “Too great happiness
+makes men greedy, nor are their desires ever so temperate, as to
+terminate in what is acquired:” a step is made from great things to
+greater, and men having attained what they did not expect, form the most
+unbounded hopes; to which the poet Ovid thus alludes.
+
+    “Luxuriant animi rebus plerumque secundis,
+       Nec facile est æqua commoda mente pati;”
+
+And again:
+
+    “Creverunt opes et opum furiosa cupido,
+       Et cum possideant plurima, plura petunt.”
+
+And also the poet Horace:
+
+    “—scilicet improbæ
+    Crescunt divitiæ, tamen
+       Curtæ nescio quid semper abest rei.
+    Crescentem sequitur cura pecuniam
+       Majorumque fames.”
+
+To which purpose the poet Lucan says:
+
+    “—O vitæ tuta facultas
+    Pauperis, angustique lares, o munera nondum
+    Intellecta Deûm!”
+
+And Petronius:
+
+    “Non bibit inter aquas nec poma fugacia carpit
+       Tantalus infelix, quem sua vota premunt.
+    Divitis hic magni facies erit, omnia late
+       Qui tenet, et sicco concoquit ore famem.”
+
+The mountains are full of herds and horses, the woods well stored with
+swine and goats, the pastures with sheep, the plains with cattle, the
+arable fields with ploughs; and although these things in very deed are in
+great abundance, yet each of them, from the insatiable nature of the
+mind, seems too narrow and scanty.  Therefore lands are seized, landmarks
+removed, boundaries invaded, and the markets in consequence abound with
+merchandise, the courts of justice with law-suits, and the senate with
+complaints.  Concerning such things, we read in Isaiah, “Woe unto them
+that join house to house, that lay field to field, till there be no
+place, that they be placed alone in the midst of the earth.”
+
+If therefore, the prophet inveighs so much against those who proceed to
+the boundaries, what would he say to those who go far beyond them?  From
+these and other causes, the true colour of religion was so converted into
+the dye of falsehood, that manners internally black assumed a fair
+exterior:
+
+    “Qui color albus erat, nunc est contrarius albo.”
+
+So that the scripture seems to be fulfilled concerning these men, “Beware
+of false prophets, who come to you in sheep’s clothing, but inwardly they
+are ravenous wolves.”  But I am inclined to think this avidity does not
+proceed from any bad intention.  For the monks of this Order (although
+themselves most abstemious) incessantly exercise, more than any others,
+the acts of charity and beneficence towards the poor and strangers; and
+because they do not live as others upon fixed incomes, but depend only on
+their labour and forethought for subsistence, they are anxious to obtain
+lands, farms, and pastures, which may enable them to perform these acts
+of hospitality.  However, to repress and remove from this sacred Order
+the detestable stigma of ambition, I wish they would sometimes call to
+mind what is written in Ecclesiasticus, “Whoso bringeth an offering of
+the goods of the poor, doth as one that killeth the son before his
+father’s eyes;” and also the sentiment of Gregory, “A good use does not
+justify things badly acquired;” and also that of Ambrose, “He who
+wrongfully receives, that he may well dispense, is rather burthened than
+assisted.”  Such men seem to say with the Apostle, “Let us do evil that
+good may come.”  For it is written, “Mercy ought to be of such a nature
+as may be received, not rejected, which may purge away sins, not make a
+man guilty before the Lord, arising from your own just labours, not those
+of other men.”  Hear what Solomon says; “Honour the Lord from your just
+labours.”  What shall they say who have seized upon other men’s
+possessions, and exercised charity?  “O Lord! in thy name we have done
+charitable deeds, we have fed the poor, clothed the naked, and hospitably
+received the stranger:” to whom the Lord will answer; “Ye speak of what
+ye have given away, but speak not of the rapine ye have committed; ye
+relate concerning those ye have fed, and remember not those ye have
+killed.”  I have judged it proper to insert in this place an instance of
+an answer which Richard, king of the English, made to Fulke, {41} a good
+and holy man, by whom God in these our days has wrought many signs in the
+kingdom of France.  This man had among other things said to the king;
+“You have three daughters, namely, Pride, Luxury, and Avarice; and as
+long as they shall remain with you, you can never expect to be in favour
+with God.”  To which the king, after a short pause, replied: “I have
+already given away those daughters in marriage: Pride to the Templars,
+Luxury to the Black Monks, and Avarice to the White.”  It is a remarkable
+circumstance, or rather a miracle, concerning Lanthoni, that, although it
+is on every side surrounded by lofty mountains, not stony or rocky, but
+of a soft nature, and covered with grass, Parian stones are frequently
+found there, and are called free-stones, from the facility with which
+they admit of being cut and polished; and with these the church is
+beautifully built.  It is also wonderful, that when, after a diligent
+search, all the stones have been removed from the mountains, and no more
+can be found, upon another search, a few days afterwards, they reappear
+in greater quantities to those who seek them.  With respect to the two
+Orders, the Cluniac and the Cistercian, this may be relied upon; although
+the latter are possessed of fine buildings, with ample revenues and
+estates, they will soon be reduced to poverty and destruction.  To the
+former, on the contrary, you would allot a barren desert and a solitary
+wood; yet in a few years you will find them in possession of sumptuous
+churches and houses, and encircled with an extensive property.  The
+difference of manners (as it appears to me) causes this contrast.  For as
+without meaning offence to either party, I shall speak the truth, the one
+feels the benefits of sobriety, parsimony, and prudence, whilst the other
+suffers from the bad effects of gluttony and intemperance: the one, like
+bees, collect their stores into a heap, and unanimously agree in the
+disposal of one well-regulated purse; the others pillage and divert to
+improper uses the largesses which have been collected by divine
+assistance, and by the bounties of the faithful; and whilst each
+individual consults solely his own interest, the welfare of the community
+suffers; since, as Sallust observes, “Small things increase by concord,
+and the greatest are wasted by discord.”  Besides, sooner than lessen the
+number of one of the thirteen or fourteen dishes which they claim by
+right of custom, or even in a time of scarcity or famine recede in the
+smallest degree from their accustomed good fare, they would suffer the
+richest lands and the best buildings of the monastery to become a prey to
+usury, and the numerous poor to perish before their gates.
+
+The first of these Orders, at a time when there was a deficiency in
+grain, with a laudable charity, not only gave away their flocks and
+herds, but resigned to the poor one of the two dishes with which they
+were always contented.  But in these our days, in order to remove this
+stain, it is ordained by the Cistercians, “That in future neither farms
+nor pastures shall be purchased; and that they shall be satisfied with
+those alone which have been freely and unconditionally bestowed upon
+them.”  This Order, therefore, being satisfied more than any other with
+humble mediocrity, and, if not wholly, yet in a great degree checking
+their ambition; and though placed in a worldly situation, yet avoiding,
+as much as possible, its contagion; neither notorious for gluttony or
+drunkenness, for luxury or lust; is fearful and ashamed of incurring
+public scandal, as will be more fully explained in the book we mean (by
+the grace of God) to write concerning the ecclesiastical Orders.
+
+In these temperate regions I have obtained (according to the usual
+expression) a place of dignity, but no great omen of future pomp or
+riches; and possessing a small residence {44a} near the castle of
+Brecheinoc, well adapted to literary pursuits, and to the contemplation
+of eternity, I envy not the riches of Croesus; happy and contented with
+that mediocrity, which I prize far beyond all the perishable and
+transitory things of this world.  But let us return to our subject.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+THE JOURNEY BY COED GRONO AND ABERGEVENNI
+
+
+FROM thence {44b} we proceeded through the narrow, woody tract called the
+bad pass of Coed Grono, leaving the noble monastery of Lanthoni, inclosed
+by its mountains, on our left.  The castle of Abergevenni is so called
+from its situation at the confluence of the river Gevenni with the Usk.
+
+It happened a short time after the death of king Henry I., that Richard
+de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and lord of Cardiganshire, passed
+this way on his journey from England into Wales, accompanied by Brian de
+Wallingford, lord of this province, and many men-at-arms.  At the passage
+of Coed Grono, {45} and at the entrance into the wood, he dismissed him
+and his attendants, though much against their will, and proceeded on his
+journey unarmed; from too great a presumption of security, preceded only
+by a minstrel and a singer, one accompanying the other on the fiddle.
+The Welsh awaiting his arrival, with Iorwerth, brother of Morgan of
+Caerleon, at their head, and others of his family, rushed upon him
+unawares from the thickets, and killed him and many of his followers.
+Thus it appears how incautious and neglectful of itself is too great
+presumption; for fear teaches foresight and caution in prosperity, but
+audacity is precipitate, and inconsiderate rashness will not await the
+advice of the leader.
+
+A sermon having been delivered at Abergevenni, {46} and many persons
+converted to the cross, a certain nobleman of those parts, named
+Arthenus, came to the archbishop, who was proceeding towards the castle
+of Usk, and humbly begged pardon for having neglected to meet him sooner.
+Being questioned whether he would take the cross, he replied, “That ought
+not be done without the advice of his friends.”  The archbishop then
+asked him, “Are you not going to consult your wife?”  To which he
+modestly answered, with a downcast look, “When the work of a man is to be
+undertaken, the counsel of a woman ought not to be asked;” and instantly
+received the cross from the archbishop.
+
+We leave to others the relation of those frequent and cruel excesses
+which in our times have arisen amongst the inhabitants of these parts,
+against the governors of castles, and the vindictive retaliations of the
+governors against the natives.  But king Henry II. was the true author,
+and Ranulf Poer, sheriff of Hereford, the instrument, of the enormous
+cruelties and slaughter perpetrated here in our days, which I thought
+better to omit, lest bad men should be induced to follow the example; for
+although temporary advantage may seem to arise from a base cause, yet, by
+the balance of a righteous judge, the punishment of wickedness may be
+deferred, though not totally avoided, according to the words of the
+poet,—
+
+    “Non habet eventus sordida præda bonos.”
+
+For after seven years of peace and tranquillity, the sons and grandsons
+of the deceased, having attained the age of manhood, took advantage of
+the absence of the lord of the castle (Abergevenni), and, burning with
+revenge, concealed themselves, with no inconsiderable force during the
+night, within the woody foss of the castle.  One of them, name Sisillus
+(Sitsylt) son of Eudaf, on the preceding day said rather jocularly to the
+constable, “Here will we enter this night,” pointing out to him a certain
+angle in the wall where it seemed the lowest; but since
+
+    “—Ridendo dicere verum
+    Quis vetat?”
+
+and
+
+    “—fas est et ab hoste doceri,”
+
+the constable and his household watched all night under arms, till at
+length, worn out by fatigue, they all retired to rest on the appearance
+of daylight, upon which the enemy attacked the walls with
+scaling-ladders, at the very place that had been pointed out.  The
+constable and his wife were taken prisoners, with many others, a few
+persons only escaping, who had sheltered themselves in the principal
+tower.  With the exception of this stronghold, the enemy violently seized
+and burned everything; and thus, by the righteous judgment of God, the
+crime was punished in the very place where it had been committed.  A
+short time after the taking of this fortress, when the aforesaid sheriff
+was building a castle at Landinegat, {48} near Monmouth, with the
+assistance of the army he had brought from Hereford, he was attacked at
+break of day, when
+
+    “Tythoni croceum linquens Aurora cubile”
+
+was only beginning to divest herself of the shades of night, by the young
+men from Gwent and the adjacent parts, with the descendants of those who
+had been slain.  Through aware of this premeditated attack, and prepared
+and drawn up in battle array, they were nevertheless repulsed within
+their intrenchments, and the sheriff, together with nine of the chief men
+of Hereford, and many others, were pierced to death with lances.  It is
+remarkable that, although Ranulf, besides many other mortal wounds, had
+the veins and arteries of his neck and his windpipe separated with a
+sword, he made signs for a priest, and from the merit of his past life,
+and the honour and veneration he had shewn to those chosen into the
+sacred order of Christ, he was confessed, and received extreme unction
+before he died.  And, indeed, many events concur to prove that, as those
+who respect the priesthood, in their latter days enjoy the satisfaction
+of friendly intercourse, so do their revilers and accusers often die
+without that consolation.  William de Braose, who was not the author of
+the crime we have preferred passing over in silence, but the executioner,
+or, rather, not the preventer of its execution, while the murderous bands
+were fulfilling the orders they had received, was precipitated into a
+deep foss, and being taken by the enemy, was drawn forth, and only by a
+sudden effort of his own troops, and by divine mercy, escaped uninjured.
+Hence it is evident that he who offends in a less degree, and unwillingly
+permits a thing to be done, is more mildly punished than he who adds
+counsel and authority to his act.  Thus, in the sufferings of Christ,
+Judas was punished with hanging, the Jews with destruction and
+banishment, and Pilate with exile.  But the end of the king, who assented
+to and ordered this treachery, sufficiently manifested in what manner, on
+account of this and many other enormities he had committed (as in the
+book “De Instructione Principis,” by God’s guidance, we shall set forth),
+he began with accumulated ignominy, sorrow, and confusion, to suffer
+punishment in this world. {49a}
+
+It seems worthy of remark, that the people of what is called Venta {49b}
+are more accustomed to war, more famous for valour, and more expert in
+archery, than those of any other part of Wales.  The following examples
+prove the truth of this assertion.  In the last capture of the aforesaid
+castle, which happened in our days, two soldiers passing over a bridge to
+take refuge in a tower built on a mound of earth, the Welsh, taking them
+in the rear, penetrated with their arrows the oaken portal of the tower,
+which was four fingers thick; in memory of which circumstance, the arrows
+were preserved in the gate.  William de Braose also testifies that one of
+his soldiers, in a conflict with the Welsh, was wounded by an arrow,
+which passed through his thigh and the armour with which it was cased on
+both sides, and, through that part of the saddle which is called the
+_alva_, mortally wounded the horse.  Another soldier had his hip, equally
+sheathed in armour, penetrated by an arrow quite to the saddle, and on
+turning his horse round, received a similar wound on the opposite hip,
+which fixed him on both sides of his seat.  What more could be expected
+from a balista?  Yet the bows used by this people are not made of horn,
+ivory, or yew, but of wild elm; unpolished, rude, and uncouth, but stout;
+not calculated to shoot an arrow to a great distance, but to inflict very
+severe wounds in close fight.
+
+But let us again return to our Itinerary.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+OF THE PROGRESS BY THE CASTLE OF USK AND THE TOWN OF CAERLEON
+
+
+AT the castle of Usk, a multitude of persons influenced by the
+archbishop’s sermon, and by the exhortations of the good and worthy
+William bishop of Landaf, {50a} who faithfully accompanied us through his
+diocese, were signed with the cross; Alexander archdeacon of Bangor {50b}
+acting as interpreter to the Welsh.  It is remarkable that many of the
+most notorious murderers, thieves, and robbers of the neighbourhood were
+here converted, to the astonishment of the spectators.  Passing from
+thence through Caerleon and leaving far on our left hand the castle of
+Monmouth, and the noble forest of Dean, situated on the other side of the
+Wye and on this side the Severn, and which amply supplies Gloucester with
+iron and venison, we spent the night at Newport, having crossed the river
+Usk three times. {50c}  Caerleon means the city of Legions, Caer, in the
+British language, signifying a city or camp, for there the Roman legions,
+sent into this island, were accustomed to winter, and from this
+circumstance it was styled the city of legions.  This city was of
+undoubted antiquity, and handsomely built of masonry, with courses of
+bricks, by the Romans.  Many vestiges of its former splendour may yet be
+seen; immense palaces, formerly ornamented with gilded roofs, in
+imitation of Roman magnificence, inasmuch as they were first raised by
+the Roman princes, and embellished with splendid buildings; a tower of
+prodigious size, remarkable hot baths, relics of temples, and theatres,
+all inclosed within fine walls, parts of which remain standing.  You will
+find on all sides, both within and without the circuit of the walls,
+subterraneous buildings, aqueducts, underground passages; and what I
+think worthy of notice, stoves contrived with wonderful art, to transmit
+the heat insensibly through narrow tubes passing up the side walls.
+
+Julius and Aaron, after suffering martyrdom, were buried in this city,
+and had each a church dedicated to him.  After Albanus and Amphibalus,
+they were esteemed the chief protomartyrs of Britannia Major.  In ancient
+times there were three fine churches in this city: one dedicated to
+Julius the martyr, graced with a choir of nuns; another to Aaron, his
+associate, and ennobled with an order of canons; and the third
+distinguished as the metropolitan of Wales.  Amphibalus, the instructor
+of Albanus in the true faith, was born in this place.  This city is well
+situated on the river Usk, navigable to the sea, and adorned with woods
+and meadows.  The Roman ambassadors here received their audience at the
+court of the great king Arthur; and here also, the archbishop Dubricius
+ceded his honours to David of Menevia, the metropolitan see being
+translated from this place to Menevia, according to the prophecy of
+Merlin Ambrosius.  “Menevia pallio urbis Legionum induetur.”  “Menevia
+shall be invested with the pall of the city of Legions.”
+
+Not far hence is a rocky eminence, impending over the Severn, called by
+the English Gouldcliffe {51} or golden rock, because from the reflections
+of the sun’s rays it assumes a bright golden colour:
+
+    “Nec mihi de facili fieri persuasio posset,
+    Quod frustra tantum dederit natura nito rem
+    Saxis, quodque suo fuerit flos hic sine fructu.”
+
+Nor can I be easily persuaded that nature hath given such splendour to
+the rocks in vain, and that this flower should be without fruit, if any
+one would take the pains to penetrate deeply into the bowels of the
+earth; if any one, I say, would extract honey from the rock, and oil from
+the stone.  Indeed many riches of nature lie concealed through
+inattention, which the diligence of posterity will bring to light; for,
+as necessity first taught the ancients to discover the conveniences of
+life, so industry, and a greater acuteness of intellect, have laid open
+many things to the moderns; as the poet says, assigning two causes for
+these discoveries,
+
+    “—labor omnia vincit
+    Improbus, et duris urgens in rebus egestas.”
+
+It is worthy of observation, that there lived in the neighbourhood of
+this City of Legions, in our time, a Welshman named Melerius, who, under
+the following circumstances, acquired the knowledge of future and occult
+events.  Having, on a certain night, namely that of Palm Sunday, met a
+damsel whom he had long loved, in a pleasant and convenient place, while
+he was indulging in her embraces, suddenly, instead of a beautiful girl,
+he found in his arms a hairy, rough, and hideous creature, the sight of
+which deprived him of his senses, and he became mad.  After remaining
+many years in this condition, he was restored to health in the church of
+St. David’s, through the merits of its saints.  But having always an
+extraordinary familiarity with unclean spirits, by seeing them, knowing
+them, talking with them, and calling each by his proper name, he was
+enabled, through their assistance, to foretel future events.  He was,
+indeed, often deceived (as they are) with respect to circumstances at a
+great distance of time or place, but was less mistaken in affairs which
+were likely to happen nearer, or within the space of a year.  The spirits
+appeared to him, usually on foot, equipped as hunters, with horns
+suspended from their necks, and truly as hunters, not of animals, but of
+souls.  He particularly met them near monasteries and monastic cells; for
+where rebellion exists, there is the greatest need of armies and
+strength.  He knew when any one spoke falsely in his presence, for he saw
+the devil, as it were, leaping and exulting upon the tongue of the liar.
+If he looked on a book faultily or falsely written, or containing a false
+passage, although wholly illiterate, he would point out the place with
+his finger.  Being questioned how he could gain such knowledge, he said
+that he was directed by the demon’s finger to the place.  In the same
+manner, entering into the dormitory of a monastery, he indicated the bed
+of any monk not sincerely devoted to religion.  He said, that the spirit
+of gluttony and surfeit was in every respect sordid; but that the spirit
+of luxury and lust was more beautiful than others in appearance, though
+in fact most foul.  If the evil spirits oppressed him too much, the
+Gospel of St. John was placed on his bosom, when, like birds, they
+immediately vanished; but when that book was removed, and the History of
+the Britons, by Geoffrey Arthur, {53} was substituted in its place, they
+instantly reappeared in greater numbers, and remained a longer time than
+usual on his body and on the book.
+
+It is worthy of remark, that Barnabas placed the Gospel of St. Matthew
+upon sick persons, and they were healed; from which, as well as from the
+foregoing circumstance, it appears how great a dignity and reverence is
+due to the sacred books of the gospel, and with what danger and risk of
+damnation every one who swears falsely by them, deviates from the paths
+of truth.  The fall of Enoch, abbot of Strata Marcella, {54} too well
+known in Wales, was revealed to many the day after it happened, by
+Melerius, who, being asked how he knew this circumstance, said, that a
+demon came to him disguised as a hunter, and, exulting in the prospect of
+such a victory, foretold the ruin of the abbot, and explained in what
+manner he would make him run away with a nun from the monastery.  The end
+in view was probably the humiliation and correction of the abbot, as was
+proved from his shortly returning home so humbled and amended, that he
+scarcely could be said to have erred.  Seneca says, “He falls not badly,
+who rises stronger from his fall.”  Peter was more strenuous after his
+denial of Christ, and Paul after being stoned; since, where sin abounds,
+there will grace also superabound.  Mary Magdalen was strengthened after
+her frailty.  He secretly revealed to Canon, the good and religious abbot
+of Alba-domus, his opinion of a certain woman whom he had seen; upon
+which the holy man confessed, with tears in his eyes, his predilection
+for her, and received from three priests the discipline of incontinence.
+For as that long and experienced subtle enemy, by arguing from certain
+conjectural signs, may foretell future by past events, so by insidious
+treachery and contrivance, added to exterior appearances, he may
+sometimes be able to discover the interior workings of the mind.
+
+At the same time there was in Lower Gwent a demon incubus, who, from his
+love for a certain young woman, and frequenting the place where she
+lived, often conversed with men, and frequently discovered hidden things
+and future events.  Melerius being interrogated concerning him, said he
+knew him well, and mentioned his name.  He affirmed that unclean spirits
+conversed with mankind before war, or any great internal disturbance,
+which was shortly afterwards proved, by the destruction of the province
+by Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon.  At the same time, when king Henry
+II., having taken the king of Scotland prisoner, had restored peace to
+his kingdom, Howel, fearful of the royal revenge for the war he had
+waged, was relieved from his difficulties by these comfortable words of
+Melerius: “Fear not,” says he, “Howel, the wrath of the king, since he
+must go into other parts.  An important city which he possesses beyond
+sea is now besieged by the king of France, on which account he will
+postpone every other business, and hasten thither with all possible
+expedition.”  Three days afterwards, Howel received advice that this
+event had really come to pass, owing to the siege of the city of Rouen.
+He forewarned also Howel of the betraying of his castle at Usk, a long
+time before it happened, and informed him that he should be wounded, but
+not mortally; and that he should escape alive from the town.  In this
+alone he was deceived, for he soon after died of the same wound.  Thus
+does that archenemy favour his friends for a time, and thus does he at
+last reward them.
+
+In all these singular events it appears to me most wonderful that he saw
+those spirits so plainly with his carnal eyes, because spirits cannot be
+discerned by the eyes of mortals, unless they assume a corporeal
+substance; but if in order to be seen they had assumed such a substance,
+how could they remain unperceived by other persons who were present?
+Perhaps they were seen by such a miraculous vision as when king Balthazar
+saw the hand of one writing on the wall, “Mane, Techel, Phares,” that is,
+weighed, numbered, divided; who in the same night lost both his kingdom
+and his life.  But Cambria well knows how in these districts, from a
+blind desire of dominion, a total dissolution of the endearing ties of
+consanguinity, and a bad and depraved example diffused throughout the
+country, good faith has been so shamefully perverted and abused.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+NEWPORT AND CAERDYF
+
+
+AT Newport, where the river Usk, descending from its original source in
+Cantref Bachan, falls into the sea, many persons were induced to take the
+cross.  Having passed the river Remni, we approached the noble castle of
+Caerdyf, {56a} situated on the banks of the river Taf.  In the
+neighbourhood of Newport, which is in the district of Gwentluc, {56b}
+there is a small stream called Nant Pencarn, {56c} passable only at
+certain fords, not so much owing to the depth of its waters, as from the
+hollowness of its channel and muddy bottom.  The public road led formerly
+to a ford, called Ryd Pencarn, that is, the ford under the head of a
+rock, from Rhyd, which in the British language signifies a ford, Pen, the
+head, and Cam, a rock; of which place Merlin Sylvester had thus
+prophesied: “Whenever you shall see a mighty prince with a freckled face
+make an hostile irruption into the southern part of Britain, should he
+cross the ford of Pencarn, then know ye, that the force of Cambria shall
+be brought low.”  Now it came to pass in our times, that king Henry II.
+took up arms against Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, and directed his march
+through the southern part of Wales towards Caermardyn.  On the day he
+intended to pass over Nant Pentcarn, the old Britons of the neighbourhood
+watched his approach towards the ford with the utmost solicitude;
+knowing, since he was both mighty and freckled, that if the passage of
+the destined ford was accomplished, the prophecy concerning him would
+undoubtedly be fulfilled.  When the king had followed the road leading to
+a more modern ford of the river (the old one spoken of in the prophecy
+having been for a long time in disuse), and was preparing to pass over,
+the pipers and trumpeters, called Cornhiriet, from _hir_, long, and
+_cornu_, a horn, began to sound their instruments on the opposite bank,
+in honour of the king.  The king’s horse, startling at the wild, unusual
+noise, refused to obey the spur, and enter the water; upon which, the
+king, gathering up the reins, hastened, in violent wrath, to the ancient
+ford, which he rapidly passed; and the Britons returned to their homes,
+alarmed and dismayed at the destruction which seemed to await them.  An
+extraordinary circumstance occurred likewise at the castle of Caerdyf.
+William earl of Gloucester, son of earl Robert, {57} who, besides that
+castle, possessed by hereditary right all the province of Gwladvorgan,
+{58a} that is, the land of Morgan, had a dispute with one of his
+dependants, whose name was Ivor the Little, being a man of short stature,
+but of great courage.  This man was, after the manner of the Welsh, owner
+of a tract of mountainous and woody country, of the whole, or a part of
+which, the earl endeavoured to deprive him.  At that time the castle of
+Caerdyf was surrounded with high walls, guarded by one hundred and twenty
+men-at-arms, a numerous body of archers, and a strong watch.  The city
+also contained many stipendiary soldiers; yet, in defiance of all these
+precautions of security, Ivor, in the dead of night, secretly scaled the
+walls, and, seizing the count and countess, with their only son, carried
+them off into the woods, and did not release them until he had recovered
+everything that had been unjustly taken from him, and received a
+compensation of additional property; for, as the poet observes,
+
+    “Spectandum est semper ne magna injuria fiat
+    Fortibus et miseris; tollas licet omne quod usquam est
+    Argenti atque auri, spoliatis arma supersunt.”
+
+In this same town of Caerdyf, king Henry II., on his return from Ireland,
+the first Sunday after Easter, passed the night.  In the morning, having
+heard mass, he remained at his devotions till every one had quitted the
+chapel of St. Piranus. {58b}  As he mounted his horse at the door, a man
+of a fair complexion, with a round tonsure and meagre countenance, tall,
+and about forty years of age, habited in a white robe falling down to his
+naked feet, thus addressed him in the Teutonic tongue: “God hold the,
+cuing,” which signifies, “May God protect you, king;” and proceeded, in
+the same language, “Christ and his Holy Mother, John the Baptist, and the
+Apostle Peter salute thee, and command thee strictly to prohibit
+throughout thy whole dominions every kind of buying or selling on
+Sundays, and not to suffer any work to be done on those days, except such
+as relates to the preparation of daily food; that due attention may be
+paid to the performance of the divine offices.  If thou dost this, all
+thy undertakings shall be successful, and thou shalt lead a happy life.”
+The king, in French, desired Philip de Mercros, {59} who held the reins
+of his horse, to ask the rustic if he had dreamt this? and when the
+soldier explained to him the king’s question in English, he replied in
+the same language he had before used, “Whether I have dreamt it or not,
+observe what day this is (addressing himself to the king, not to the
+interpreter), and unless thou shalt do so, and quickly amend thy life,
+before the expiration of one year, thou shalt hear such things concerning
+what thou lovest best in this world, and shalt thereby be so much
+troubled, that thy disquietude shall continue to thy life’s end.”  The
+king, spurring his horse, proceeded a little way towards the gate, when,
+stopping suddenly, he ordered his attendants to call the good man back.
+The soldier, and a young man named William, the only persons who remained
+with the king, accordingly called him, and sought him in vain in the
+chapel, and in all the inns of the city.  The king, vexed that he had not
+spoken more to him, waited alone a long time, while other persons went in
+search of him; and when he could not be found, pursued his journey over
+the bridge of Remni to Newport.  The fatal prediction came to pass within
+the year, as the man had threatened; for the king’s three sons, Henry,
+the eldest, and his brothers, Richard of Poitou, and Geoffrey, count of
+Britany, in the following Lent, deserted to Louis king of France, which
+caused the king greater uneasiness than he had ever before experienced;
+and which, by the conduct of some one of his sons, was continued till the
+time of his decease.  This monarch, through divine mercy (for God is more
+desirous of the conversion than the destruction of a sinner), received
+many other admonitions and reproofs about this time, and shortly before
+his death; all of which, being utterly incorrigible, he obstinately and
+obdurately despised, as will be more fully set forth (by the favour of
+God) in my book, “de Principis Instructione.”
+
+Not far from Caerdyf is a small island situated near the shore of the
+Severn, called Barri, from St. Baroc {60} who formerly lived there, and
+whose remains are deposited in a chapel overgrown with ivy, having been
+transferred to a coffin.  From hence a noble family, of the maritime
+parts of South Wales, who owned this island and the adjoining estates,
+received the name of de Barri.  It is remarkable that, in a rock near the
+entrance of the island, there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear is
+applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at work, the blowing of
+bellows, strokes of hammers, grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces;
+and it might easily be imagined that such noises, which are continued at
+the ebb and flow of the tides, were occasioned by the influx of the sea
+under the cavities of the rocks.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+THE SEE OF LANDAF AND MONASTERY OF MARGAN, AND THE REMARKABLE THINGS IN
+THOSE PARTS
+
+
+ON the following morning, the business of the cross being publicly
+proclaimed at Landaf, the English standing on one side, and the Welsh on
+the other, many persons of each nation took the cross, and we remained
+there that night with William bishop of that place, {61a} a discreet and
+good man.  The word Landaf {61b} signifies the church situated upon the
+river Taf, and is now called the church of St. Teileau, formerly bishop
+of that see.  The archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning,
+before the high altar of the cathedral, we immediately pursued our
+journey by the little cell of Ewenith {61c} to the noble Cistercian
+monastery of Margan. {62}  This monastery, under the direction of Conan,
+a learned and prudent abbot, was at this time more celebrated for its
+charitable deeds than any other of that order in Wales.  On this account,
+it is an undoubted fact, that, as a reward for that abundant charity
+which the monastery had always, in times of need, exercised towards
+strangers and poor persons, in a season of approaching famine, their corn
+and provisions were perceptibly, by divine assistance, increased, like
+the widow’s cruise of oil by the means of the prophet Elijah.  About the
+time of its foundation, a young man of those parts, by birth a Welshman,
+having claimed and endeavoured to apply to his own use certain lands
+which had been given to the monastery, by the instigation of the devil
+set on fire the best barn belonging to the monks, which was filled with
+corn; but, immediately becoming mad, he ran about the country in a
+distracted state, nor ceased raving until he was seized by his parents
+and bound.  Having burst his bonds, and tired out his keepers, he came
+the next morning to the gate of the monastery, incessantly howling out
+that he was inwardly burnt by the influence of the monks, and thus in a
+few days expired, uttering the most miserable complaints.  It happened
+also, that a young man was struck by another in the guests’ hall; but on
+the following day, by divine vengeance, the aggressor was, in the
+presence of the fraternity, killed by an enemy, and his lifeless body was
+laid out in the same spot in the hall where the sacred house had been
+violated.  In our time too, in a period of scarcity, while great
+multitudes of poor were daily crowding before the gates for relief, by
+the unanimous consent of the brethren, a ship was sent to Bristol to
+purchase corn for charitable purposes.  The vessel, delayed by contrary
+winds, and not returning (but rather affording an opportunity for the
+miracle), on the very day when there would have been a total deficiency
+of corn, both for the poor and the convent, a field near the monastery
+was found suddenly to ripen, more than a month before the usual time of
+harvest: thus, divine Providence supplied the brotherhood and the
+numerous poor with sufficient nourishment until autumn.  By these and
+other signs of virtues, the place accepted by God began to be generally
+esteemed and venerated.
+
+It came to pass also in our days, during the period when the four sons of
+Caradoc son of Iestin, and nephews of prince Rhys by his sister, namely,
+Morgan, Meredyth, Owen, and Cadwallon, bore rule for their father in
+those parts, that Cadwallon, through inveterate malice, slew his brother
+Owen.  But divine vengeance soon overtook him; for on his making a
+hostile attack on a certain castle, he was crushed to pieces by the
+sudden fall of its walls: and thus, in the presence of a numerous body of
+his own and his brother’s forces, suffered the punishment which his
+barbarous and unnatural conduct had so justly merited.
+
+Another circumstance which happened here deserves notice.  A greyhound
+belonging to the aforesaid Owen, large, beautiful, and curiously spotted
+with a variety of colours, received seven wounds from arrows and lances,
+in the defence of his master, and on his part did much injury to the
+enemy and assassins.  When his wounds were healed, he was sent to king
+Henry II. by William earl of Gloucester, in testimony of so great and
+extraordinary a deed.  A dog, of all animals, is most attached to man,
+and most easily distinguishes him; sometimes, when deprived of his
+master, he refuses to live, and in his master’s defence is bold enough to
+brave death; ready, therefore, to die, either with or for his master.  I
+do not think it superfluous to insert here an example which Suetonius
+gives in his book on the nature of animals, and which Ambrosius also
+relates in his Exameron.  “A man, accompanied by a dog, was killed in a
+remote part of the city of Antioch, by a soldier, for the sake of
+plunder.  The murderer, concealed by the darkness of the morning, escaped
+into another part of the city; the corpse lay unburied; a large concourse
+of people assembled; and the dog, with bitter howlings, lamented his
+master’s fate.  The murderer, by chance, passed that way, and, in order
+to prove his innocence, mingled with the crowd of spectators, and, as if
+moved by compassion, approached the body of the deceased.  The dog,
+suspending for a while his moans, assumed the arms of revenge; rushed
+upon the man, and seized him, howling at the same time in so dolorous a
+manner, that all present shed tears.  It was considered as a proof
+against the murderer, that the dog seized him from amongst so many, and
+would not let him go; and especially, as neither the crime of hatred,
+envy, or injury, could possibly, in this case, be urged against the dog.
+On account, therefore, of such a strong suspicion of murder (which the
+soldier constantly denied), it was determined that the truth of the
+matter should be tried by combat.  The parties being assembled in a
+field, with a crowd of people around, the dog on one side, and the
+soldier, armed with a stick of a cubit’s length, on the other, the
+murderer was at length overcome by the victorious dog, and suffered an
+ignominious death on the common gallows.”
+
+Pliny and Solinus relate that a certain king, who was very fond of dogs,
+and addicted to hunting, was taken and imprisoned by his enemies, and in
+a most wonderful manner liberated, without any assistance from his
+friends, by a pack of dogs, who had spontaneously sequestered themselves
+in the mountainous and woody regions, and from thence committed many
+atrocious acts of depredation on the neighbouring herds and flocks.  I
+shall take this opportunity of mentioning what from experience and ocular
+testimony I have observed respecting the nature of dogs.  A dog is in
+general sagacious, but particularly with respect to his master; for when
+he has for some time lost him in a crowd, he depends more upon his nose
+than upon his eyes; and, in endeavouring to find him, he first looks
+about, and then applies his nose, for greater certainty, to his clothes,
+as if nature had placed all the powers of infallibility in that feature.
+The tongue of a dog possesses a medicinal quality; the wolf’s, on the
+contrary, a poisonous: the dog heals his wounds by licking them, the
+wolf, by a similar practice, infects them; and the dog, if he has
+received a wound in his neck or head, or any part of his body where he
+cannot apply his tongue, ingeniously makes use of his hinder foot as a
+conveyance of the healing qualities to the parts affected.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+PASSAGE OF THE RIVERS AVON AND NETH—AND OF ABERTAWE AND GOER
+
+
+CONTINUING our journey, {65} not far from Margan, where the alternate
+vicissitudes of a sandy shore and the tide commence, we forded over the
+river Avon, having been considerably delayed by the ebbing of the sea;
+and under the guidance of Morgan, eldest son of Caradoc, proceeded along
+the sea-shore towards the river Neth, which, on account of its
+quicksands, is the most dangerous and inaccessible river in South Wales.
+A pack-horse belonging to the author, which had proceeded by the lower
+way near the sea, although in the midst of many others, was the only one
+which sunk down into the abyss, but he was at last, with great
+difficulty, extricated, and not without some damage done to the baggage
+and books.  Yet, although we had Morgan, the prince of that country, as
+our conductor, we did not reach the river without great peril, and some
+severe falls; for the alarm occasioned by this unusual kind of road, made
+us hasten our steps over the quicksands, in opposition to the advice of
+our guide, and fear quickened our pace; whereas, through these difficult
+passages, as we there learned, the mode of proceeding should be with
+moderate speed.  But as the fords of that river experience a change by
+every monthly tide, and cannot be found after violent rains and floods,
+we did not attempt the ford, but passed the river in a boat, leaving the
+monastery of Neth {66} on our right hand, approaching again to the
+district of St. David’s, and leaving the diocese of Landaf (which we had
+entered at Abergevenny) behind us.
+
+It happened in our days that David II., bishop of St. David’s, passing
+this way, and finding the ford agitated by a recent storm, a chaplain of
+those parts, named Rotherch Falcus, being conversant in the proper method
+of crossing these rivers, undertook, at the desire of the bishop, the
+dangerous task of trying the ford.  Having mounted a large and powerful
+horse, which had been selected from the whole train for this purpose, he
+immediately crossed the ford, and fled with great rapidity to the
+neighbouring woods, nor could he be induced to return until the
+suspension which he had lately incurred was removed, and a full promise
+of security and indemnity obtained; the horse was then restored to one
+party, and his service to the other.
+
+Entering the province called Goer, {67a} we spent the night at the castle
+of Sweynsei, {67b} which in Welsh is called Abertawe, or the fall of the
+river Tawe into the sea.  The next morning, the people being assembled
+after mass, and many having been induced to take the cross, an aged man
+of that district, named Cador, thus addressed the archbishop: “My lord,
+if I now enjoyed my former strength, and the vigour of youth, no alms
+should ransom me, no desire of inactivity restrain me, from engaging in
+the laudable undertaking you preach; but since my weak age and the
+injuries of time deprive me of this desirable benefit (for approaching
+years bring with them many comforts, which those that are passed take
+away), if I cannot, owing to the infirmity of my body, attain a full
+merit, yet suffer me, by giving a tenth of all I possess, to attain a
+half.”  Then falling down at the feet of the archbishop, he deposited in
+his hands, for the service of the cross, the tenth of his estate, weeping
+bitterly, and intreating from him the remission of one half of the
+enjoined penance.  After a short time he returned, and thus continued:
+“My lord, if the will directs the action, and is itself, for the most
+part, considered as the act, and as I have a full and firm inclination to
+undertake this journey, I request a remission of the remaining part of
+the penance, and in addition to my former gift, I will equal the sum from
+the residue of my tenths.”  The archbishop, smiling at his devout
+ingenuity, embraced him with admiration.
+
+On the same night, two monks, who waited in the archbishop’s chamber,
+conversing about the occurrences of their journey, and the dangers of the
+road, one of them said (alluding to the wildness of the country), “This
+is a hard province;” the other (alluding to the quicksands), wittily
+replied, “Yet yesterday it was found too soft.”
+
+A short time before our days, a circumstance worthy of note occurred in
+these parts, which Elidorus, a priest, most strenuously affirmed had
+befallen himself.  When a youth of twelve years, and learning his
+letters, since, as Solomon says, “The root of learning is bitter,
+although the fruit is sweet,” in order to avoid the discipline and
+frequent stripes inflicted on him by his preceptor, he ran away, and
+concealed himself under the hollow bank of a river.  After fasting in
+that situation for two days, two little men of pigmy stature appeared to
+him, saying, “If you will come with us, we will lead you into a country
+full of delights and sports.”  Assenting and rising up, he followed his
+guides through a path, at first subterraneous and dark, into a most
+beautiful country, adorned with rivers and meadows, woods and plains, but
+obscure, and not illuminated with the full light of the sun.  All the
+days were cloudy, and the nights extremely dark, on account of the
+absence of the moon and stars.  The boy was brought before the king, and
+introduced to him in the presence of the court; who, having examined him
+for a long time, delivered him to his son, who was then a boy.  These men
+were of the smallest stature, but very well proportioned in their make;
+they were all of a fair complexion, with luxuriant hair falling over
+their shoulders like that of women.  They had horses and greyhounds
+adapted to their size.  They neither ate flesh nor fish, but lived on
+milk diet, made up into messes with saffron.  They never took an oath,
+for they detested nothing so much as lies.  As often as they returned
+from our upper hemisphere, they reprobated our ambition, infidelities,
+and inconstancies; they had no form of public worship, being strict
+lovers and reverers, as it seemed, of truth.
+
+The boy frequently returned to our hemisphere, sometimes by the way he
+had first gone, sometimes by another: at first in company with other
+persons, and afterwards alone, and made himself known only to his mother,
+declaring to her the manners, nature, and state of that people.  Being
+desired by her to bring a present of gold, with which that region
+abounded, he stole, while at play with the king’s son, the golden ball
+with which he used to divert himself, and brought it to his mother in
+great haste; and when he reached the door of his father’s house, but not
+unpursued, and was entering it in a great hurry, his foot stumbled on the
+threshold, and falling down into the room where his mother was sitting,
+the two pigmies seized the ball which had dropped from his hand, and
+departed, shewing the boy every mark of contempt and derision.  On
+recovering from his fall, confounded with shame, and execrating the evil
+counsel of his mother, he returned by the usual track to the
+subterraneous road, but found no appearance of any passage, though he
+searched for it on the banks of the river for nearly the space of a year.
+But since those calamities are often alleviated by time, which reason
+cannot mitigate, and length of time alone blunts the edge of our
+afflictions, and puts an end to many evils, the youth having been brought
+back by his friends and mother, and restored to his right way of
+thinking, and to his learning, in process of time attained the rank of
+priesthood.  Whenever David II., bishop of St. David’s, talked to him in
+his advanced state of life concerning this event, he could never relate
+the particulars without shedding tears.  He had made himself acquainted
+with the language of that nation, the words of which, in his younger
+days, he used to recite, which, as the bishop often had informed me, were
+very conformable to the Greek idiom.  When they asked for water, they
+said Ydor ydorum, which meant bring water, for Ydor in their language, as
+well as in the Greek, signifies water, from whence vessels for water are
+called ὑδζιαι; and Dûr also, in the British language, signifies water.
+When they wanted salt they said, Halgein ydorum, bring salt: salt is
+called ἁλ in Greek, and Halen in British, for that language, from the
+length of time which the Britons (then called Trojans, and afterwards
+Britons, from Brito, their leader) remained in Greece after the
+destruction of Troy, became, in many instances, similar to the Greek.
+
+It is remarkable that so many languages should correspond in one word, ἁλ
+in Greek, Halen in British, and Halgein in the Irish tongue, the g being
+inserted; Sal in Latin, because, as Priscian says, “the s is placed in
+some words instead of an aspirate,” as ἁλς in Greek is called Sal in
+Latin, ἑμι—semi—ἑπτα—septem—Sel in French—the _a_ being changed into
+_e_—Salt in English, by the addition of _t_ to the Latin; Sout, in the
+Teutonic language: there are therefore seven or eight languages agreeing
+in this one word.  If a scrupulous inquirer should ask my opinion of the
+relation here inserted, I answer with Augustine, “that the divine
+miracles are to be admired, not discussed.”  Nor do I, by denial, place
+bounds to the divine power, nor, by assent, insolently extend what cannot
+be extended.  But I always call to mind the saying of St. Jerome; “You
+will find,” says he, “many things incredible and improbable, which
+nevertheless are true; for nature cannot in any respect prevail against
+the lord of nature.”  These things, therefore, and similar contingencies,
+I should place, according to the opinion of Augustine, among those
+particulars which are neither to be affirmed, nor too positively denied.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+PASSAGE OVER THE RIVERS LOCHOR AND WENDRAETH; AND OF CYDWELI
+
+
+THENCE we proceeded towards the river Lochor, {71a} through the plains in
+which Howel, son of Meredyth of Brecheinoc, after the decease of king
+Henry I., gained a signal victory over the English.  Having first crossed
+the river Lochor, and afterwards the water called Wendraeth, {71b} we
+arrived at the castle of Cydweli. {71c}  In this district, after the
+death of king Henry, whilst Gruffydd son of Rhys, the prince of South
+Wales, was engaged in soliciting assistance from North Wales, his wife
+Gwenliana (like the queen of the Amazons, and a second Penthesilea) led
+an army into these parts; but she was defeated by Maurice de Londres,
+lord of that country, and Geoffrey, the bishop’s constable. {72}  Morgan,
+one of her sons, whom she had arrogantly brought with her in that
+expedition, was slain, and the other, Malgo, taken prisoner; and she,
+with many of her followers, was put to death.  During the reign of king
+Henry I., when Wales enjoyed a state of tranquillity, the above-mentioned
+Maurice had a forest in that neighbourhood, well stocked with wild
+animals, and especially deer, and was extremely tenacious of his venison.
+His wife (for women are often very expert in deceiving men) made use of
+this curious stratagem.  Her husband possessed, on the side of the wood
+next the sea, some extensive pastures, and large flocks of sheep.  Having
+made all the shepherds and chief people in her house accomplices and
+favourers of her design, and taking advantage of the simple courtesy of
+her husband, she thus addressed him: “It is wonderful that being lord
+over beasts, you have ceased to exercise dominion over them; and by not
+making use of your deer, do not now rule over them, but are subservient
+to them; and behold how great an abuse arises from too much patience; for
+they attack our sheep with such an unheard-of rage, and unusual voracity,
+that from many they are become few; from being innumerable, only
+numerous.”  To make her story more probable, she caused some wool to be
+inserted between the intestines of two stags which had been embowelled;
+and her husband, thus artfully deceived, sacrificed his deer to the
+rapacity of his dogs.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+TYWY RIVER—CAERMARDYN—MONASTERY OF ALBELANDE
+
+
+HAVING crossed the river Tywy in a boat, we proceeded towards Caermardyn,
+leaving Lanstephan and Talachar {73a} on the sea-coast to our left.
+After the death of king Henry II., Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, took these
+two castles by assault; then, having laid waste, by fire and sword, the
+provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he besieged Caermardyn, but failed in his
+attempt.  Caermardyn {73b} signifies the city of Merlin, because,
+according to the British History, he was there said to have been begotten
+of an incubus.
+
+This ancient city is situated on the banks of the noble river Tywy,
+surrounded by woods and pastures, and was strongly inclosed with walls of
+brick, part of which are still standing; having Cantref Mawr, the great
+cantred, or hundred, on the eastern side, a safe refuge, in times of
+danger, to the inhabitants of South Wales, on account of its thick woods;
+where is also the castle of Dinevor, {73c} built on a lofty summit above
+the Tywy, the royal seat of the princes of South Wales.  In ancient
+times, there were three regal palaces in Wales: Dinevor in South Wales,
+Aberfrau in North Wales, situated in Anglesea, and Pengwern in Powys, now
+called Shrewsbury (Slopesburia); Pengwern signifies the head of a grove
+of alders.  Recalling to mind those poetical passages:
+
+    “Dolus an virtus quis in hoste requirat?”
+
+and
+
+    “Et si non recte possis quocunque modo rem,”
+
+my pen shrinks with abhorrence from the relation of the enormous
+vengeance exercised by the court against its vassals, within the comot of
+Caeo, in the Cantref Mawr.  Near Dinevor, on the other side of the river
+Tywy, in the Cantref Bychan, or the little cantred, there is a spring
+which, like the tide, ebbs and flows twice in twenty-four hours. {74a}
+Not far to the north of Caermardyn, namely at Pencadair, {74b} that is,
+the head of the chair, when Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, was more by
+stratagem than force compelled to surrender, and was carried away into
+England, king Henry II. despatched a knight, born in Britany, on whose
+wisdom and fidelity he could rely, under the conduct of Guaidanus, dean
+of Cantref Mawr, to explore the situation of Dinevor castle, and the
+strength of the country.  The priest, being desired to take the knight by
+the easiest and best road to the castle, led him purposely aside by the
+most difficult and inaccessible paths, and wherever they passed through
+woods, the priest, to the general surprise of all present, fed upon
+grass, asserting that, in times of need, the inhabitants of that country
+were accustomed to live upon herbs and roots.  The knight returning to
+the king, and relating what had happened, affirmed that the country was
+uninhabitable, vile, and inaccessible, and only affording food to a
+beastly nation, living like brutes.  At length the king released Rhys,
+having first bound him to fealty by solemn oaths and the delivery of
+hostages.
+
+On our journey from Caermardyn towards the Cistercian monastery called
+Alba Domus, {75a} the archbishop was informed of the murder of a young
+Welshman, who was devoutly hastening to meet him; when turning out of the
+road, he ordered the corpse to be covered with the cloak of his almoner,
+and with a pious supplication commended the soul of the murdered youth to
+heaven.  Twelve archers of the adjacent castle of St. Clare, {75b} who
+had assassinated the young man, were on the following day signed with the
+cross at Alba Domus, as a punishment for their crime.  Having traversed
+three rivers, the Taf, then the Cleddeu, under Lanwadein, {76a} and
+afterwards another branch of the same river, we at length arrived at
+Haverford.  This province, from its situation between two rivers, has
+acquired the name of Daugleddeu, {76b} being enclosed and terminated, as
+it were, by two swords, for cleddue, in the British language, signifies a
+sword.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+OF HAVERFORD AND ROS
+
+
+A SERMON having been delivered at Haverford {76c} by the archbishop, and
+the word of God preached to the people by the archdeacon, whose name
+appears on the title-page of this work, many soldiers and plebeians were
+induced to take the cross.  It appeared wonderful and miraculous, that,
+although the archdeacon addressed them both in the Latin and French
+tongues, those persons who understood neither of those languages were
+equally affected, and flocked in great numbers to the cross.
+
+An old woman of those parts, who for three preceding years had been
+blind, having heard of the archbishop’s arrival, sent her son to the
+place where the sermon was to be preached, that he might bring back to
+her some particle, if only of the fringe of his garment.  The young man
+being prevented by the crowd from approaching the archbishop, waited till
+the assembly was dispersed, and then carried a piece of the earth on
+which the preacher had stood.  The mother received the gift with great
+joy, and falling immediately on her knees, applied the turf to her mouth
+and eyes; and thus, through the merits of the holy man, and her own faith
+and devotion, recovered the blessing of sight, which she had entirely
+lost.
+
+The inhabitants of this province derived their origin from Flanders, and
+were sent by king Henry I. to inhabit these districts; a people brave and
+robust, ever most hostile to the Welsh; a people, I say, well versed in
+commerce and woollen manufactories; a people anxious to seek gain by sea
+or land, in defiance of fatigue and danger; a hardy race, equally fitted
+for the plough or the sword; a people brave and happy, if Wales (as it
+ought to have been) had been dear to its sovereign, and had not so
+frequently experienced the vindictive resentment and ill-treatment of its
+governors.
+
+A circumstance happened in the castle of Haverford during our time, which
+ought not to be omitted.  A famous robber was fettered and confined in
+one of its towers, and was often visited by three boys, the son of the
+earl of Clare, and two others, one of whom was son of the lord of the
+castle, and the other his grandson, sent thither for their education, and
+who applied to him for arrows, with which he used to supply them.  One
+day, at the request of the children, the robber, being brought from his
+dungeon, took advantage of the absence of the gaoler, closed the door,
+and shut himself up with the boys.  A great clamour instantly arose, as
+well from the boys within, as from the people without; nor did he cease,
+with an uplifted axe, to threaten the lives of the children, until
+indemnity and security were assured to him in the most ample manner.  A
+similar accident happened at Chateau-roux in France.  The lord of that
+place maintained in the castle a man whose eyes he had formerly put out,
+but who, by long habit, recollected the ways of the castle, and the steps
+leading to the towers.  Seizing an opportunity of revenge, and meditating
+the destruction of the youth, he fastened the inward doors of the castle,
+and took the only son and heir of the governor of the castle to the
+summit of a high tower, from whence he was seen with the utmost concern
+by the people beneath.  The father of the boy hastened thither, and,
+struck with terror, attempted by every possible means to procure the
+ransom of his son, but received for answer, that this could not be
+effected, but by the same mutilation of those lower parts, which he had
+likewise inflicted on him.  The father, having in vain entreated mercy,
+at length assented, and caused a violent blow to be struck on his body;
+and the people around him cried out lamentably, as if he had suffered
+mutilation.  The blind man asked him where he felt the greatest pain?
+when he replied in his reins, he declared it was false and prepared to
+precipitate the boy.  A second blow was given, and the lord of the castle
+asserting that the greatest pains were at his heart, the blind man
+expressing his disbelief, again carried the boy to the summit of the
+tower.  The third time, however, the father, to save his son, really
+mutilated himself; and when he exclaimed that the greatest pain was in
+his teeth; “It is true,” said he, “as a man who has had experience should
+be believed, and thou hast in part revenged my injuries.  I shall meet
+death with more satisfaction, and thou shalt neither beget any other son,
+nor receive comfort from this.”  Then, precipitating himself and the boy
+from the summit of the tower, their limbs were broken, and both instantly
+expired.  The knight ordered a monastery to be built on the spot for the
+soul of the boy, which is still extant, and called De Doloribus.
+
+It appears remarkable to me that the entire inheritance should devolve on
+Richard, son of Tankard, governor of the aforesaid castle of Haverford,
+being the youngest son, and having many brothers of distinguished
+character who died before him.  In like manner the dominion of South
+Wales descended to Rhys son of Gruffyd, owing to the death of several of
+his brothers.  During the childhood of Richard, a holy man, named
+Caradoc, led a pious and recluse life at St. Ismael, in the province of
+Ros, {79a} to whom the boy was often sent by his parents with provisions,
+and he so ingratiated himself in the eyes of the good man, that he very
+often promised him, together with his blessing, the portion of all his
+brothers, and the paternal inheritance.  It happened that Richard, being
+overtaken by a violent storm of rain, turned aside to the hermit’s cell;
+and being unable to get his hounds near him, either by calling, coaxing,
+or by offering them food, the holy man smiled; and making a gentle motion
+with his hand, brought them all to him immediately.  In process of time,
+when Caradoc {79b} had happily completed the course of his existence,
+Tankard, father of Richard, violently detained his body, which by his
+last will he had bequeathed to the church of St. David; but being
+suddenly seized with a severe illness, he revoked his command.  When this
+had happened to him a second and a third time, and the corpse at last was
+suffered to be conveyed away, and was proceeding over the sands of
+Niwegal towards St. David’s, a prodigious fall of rain inundated the
+whole country; but the conductors of the sacred burthen, on coming forth
+from their shelter, found the silken pall, with which the bier was
+covered, dry and uninjured by the storm; and thus the miraculous body of
+Caradoc was brought into the church of St. Andrew and St. David, and with
+due solemnity deposited in the left aisle, near the altar of the holy
+proto-martyr Stephen.
+
+It is worthy of remark, that these people (the Flemings), from the
+inspection of the right shoulders of rams, which have been stripped of
+their flesh, and not roasted, but boiled, can discover future events, or
+those which have passed and remained long unknown. {80}  They know, also,
+what is transpiring at a distant place, by a wonderful art, and a
+prophetic kind of spirit.  They declare, also, by means of signs, the
+undoubted symptoms of approaching peace and war, murders and fires,
+domestic adulteries, the state of the king, his life and death.  It
+happened in our time, that a man of those parts, whose name was William
+Mangunel, a person of high rank, and excelling all others in the
+aforesaid art, had a wife big with child by her own husband’s grandson.
+Well aware of the fact, he ordered a ram from his own flock to be sent to
+his wife, as a present from her neighbour, which was carried to the cook,
+and dressed.  At dinner, the husband purposely gave the shoulder-bone of
+the ram, properly cleaned, to his wife, who was also well skilled in this
+art, for her examination; when, having for a short time examined the
+secret marks, she smiled, and threw the oracle down on the table.  Her
+husband, dissembling, earnestly demanded the cause of her smiling, and
+the explanation of the matter.  Overcome by his entreaties, she answered:
+“The man to whose fold this ram belongs, has an adulterous wife, at this
+time pregnant by the commission of incest with his own grandson.”  The
+husband, with a sorrowful and dejected countenance, replied: “You
+deliver, indeed, an oracle supported by too much truth, which I have so
+much more reason to lament, as the ignominy you have published redounds
+to my own injury.”  The woman, thus detected, and unable to dissemble her
+confusion, betrayed the inward feelings of her mind by external signs;
+shame and sorrow urging her by turns, and manifesting themselves, now by
+blushes, now by paleness, and lastly (according to the custom of women),
+by tears.  The shoulder of a goat was also once brought to a certain
+person, instead of a ram’s—both being alike, when cleaned; who, observing
+for a short time the lines and marks, exclaimed, “Unhappy cattle, that
+never was multiplied! unhappy, likewise, the owner of the cattle, who
+never had more than three or four in one flock!”  Many persons, a year
+and a half before the event, foresaw, by the means of shoulder-bones, the
+destruction of their country, after the decease of king Henry I., and,
+selling all their possessions, left their homes, and escaped the
+impending ruin.
+
+It happened also in Flanders, from whence this people came, that a
+certain man sent a similar bone to a neighbour for his inspection; and
+the person who carried it, on passing over a ditch, broke wind, and
+wished it in the nostrils of the man on whose account he was thus
+troubled.  The person to whom the bone was taken, on examination, said,
+“May you have in your own nose, that which you wished to be in mine.”  In
+our time, a soothsayer, on the inspection of a bone, discovered not only
+a theft, and the manner of it, but the thief himself, and all the
+attendant circumstances; he heard also the striking of a bell, and the
+sound of a trumpet, as if those things which were past were still
+performing.  It is wonderful, therefore, that these bones, like all
+unlawful conjurations, should represent, by a counterfeit similitude to
+the eyes and ears, things which are passed, as well as those which are
+now going on.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+OF PENBROCH
+
+
+THE province of Penbroch adjoins the southern part of the territory of
+Ros, and is separated from it by an arm of the sea.  Its principal city,
+and the metropolis of Demetia, is situated on an oblong rocky eminence,
+extending with two branches from Milford Haven, from whence it derived
+the name of Penbroch, which signifies the head of the æstuary.  Arnulph
+de Montgomery, {82a} in the reign of king Henry I., erected here a
+slender fortress with stakes and turf, which, on returning to England, he
+consigned to the care of Giraldus de Windesor, {82b} his constable and
+lieutenant-general, a worthy and discreet man.  Immediately on the death
+of Rhys son of Tewdwr, who a short time before had been slain by the
+treachery of his own troops at Brecheinoc, leaving his son, Gruffydd, a
+child, the inhabitants of South Wales besieged the castle.  One night,
+when fifteen soldiers had deserted, and endeavoured to escape from the
+castle in a small boat, on the following morning Giraldus invested their
+armour bearers with the arms and estates of their masters, and decorated
+them with the military order.  The garrison being, from the length of the
+siege, reduced to the utmost want of provisions, the constable, with
+great prudence and flattering hopes of success, caused four hogs, which
+yet remained, to be cut into small pieces and thrown down to the enemy
+from the fortifications.  The next day, having again recourse to a more
+refined stratagem, he contrived that a letter, sealed with his own
+signet, should be found before the house of Wilfred, {83} bishop of St.
+David’s, who was then by chance in that neighbourhood, as if accidentally
+dropped, stating that there would be no necessity of soliciting the
+assistance of earl Arnulph for the next four months to come.  The
+contents of these letters being made known to the army, the troops
+abandoned the siege of the castle, and retired to their own homes.
+Giraldus, in order to make himself and his dependants more secure,
+married Nest, the sister of Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, by whom he
+had an illustrious progeny of both sexes; and by whose means both the
+maritime parts of South Wales were retained by the English, and the walls
+of Ireland afterwards stormed, as our Vaticinal History declares.
+
+In our time, a person residing at the castle of Penbroch, found a brood
+of young weasels concealed within a fleece in his dwelling house, which
+he carefully removed and hid.  The mother, irritated at the loss of her
+young, which she had searched for in vain, went to a vessel of milk that
+had been set aside for the use of the master’s son, and raising herself
+up, polluted it with her deadly poison; thus revenging, as it were, the
+loss of her young, by the destruction of the child.  The man, observing
+what passed, carried the fleece back to its former place; when the
+weasel, agitated by maternal solicitude, between hope and fear, on
+finding again her young, began to testify her joy by her cries and
+actions, and returning quickly to the vessel, overthrew it; thus, in
+gratitude for the recovery of her own offspring, saving that of her host
+from danger.
+
+In another place, an animal of the same species had brought out her young
+into a plain for the enjoyment of the sun and air; when an insidious kite
+carried off one of them.  Concealing herself with the remainder behind
+some shrubs, grief suggested to her a stratagem of exquisite revenge; she
+extended herself on a heap of earth, as if dead, within sight of the
+plunderer, and (as success always increases avidity) the bird immediately
+seized her and flew away, but soon fell down dead by the bite of the
+poisonous animal.
+
+The castle called Maenor Pyrr, {84} that is, the mansion of Pyrrus, who
+also possessed the island of Chaldey, which the Welsh call Inys Pyrr, or
+the island of Pyrrus, is distant about three miles from Penbroch.  It is
+excellently well defended by turrets and bulwarks, and is situated on the
+summit of a hill extending on the western side towards the sea-port,
+having on the northern and southern sides a fine fish-pond under its
+walls, as conspicuous for its grand appearance, as for the depth of its
+waters, and a beautiful orchard on the same side, inclosed on one part by
+a vineyard, and on the other by a wood, remarkable for the projection of
+its rocks, and the height of its hazel trees.  On the right hand of the
+promontory, between the castle and the church, near the site of a very
+large lake and mill, a rivulet of never-failing water flows through a
+valley, rendered sandy by the violence of the winds.  Towards the west,
+the Severn sea, bending its course to Ireland, enters a hollow bay at
+some distance from the castle; and the southern rocks, if extended a
+little further towards the north, would render it a most excellent
+harbour for shipping.  From this point of sight, you will see almost all
+the ships from Great Britain, which the east wind drives upon the Irish
+coast, daringly brave the inconstant waves and raging sea.  This country
+is well supplied with corn, sea-fish, and imported wines; and what is
+preferable to every other advantage, from its vicinity to Ireland, it is
+tempered by a salubrious air.  Demetia, therefore, with its seven
+cantreds, is the most beautiful, as well as the most powerful district of
+Wales; Penbroch, the finest part of the province of Demetia; and the
+place I have just described, the most delightful part of Penbroch.  It is
+evident, therefore, that Maenor Pirr is the pleasantest spot in Wales;
+and the author may be pardoned for having thus extolled his native soil,
+his genial territory, with a profusion of praise and admiration.
+
+In this part of Penbroch, unclean spirits have conversed, nor visibly,
+but sensibly, with mankind; first in the house of Stephen Wiriet, {86a}
+and afterwards in the house of William Not; {86b} manifesting their
+presence by throwing dirt at them, and more with a view of mockery than
+of injury.  In the house of William, they cut holes in the linen and
+woollen garments, much to the loss of the owner of the house and his
+guests; nor could any precaution, or even bolts, secure them from these
+inconveniences.  In the house of Stephen, the spirit in a more
+extraordinary manner conversed with men, and, in reply to their taunts,
+upbraided them openly with everything they had done from their birth, and
+which they were not willing should be known or heard by others.  I do not
+presume to assign the cause of this event, except that it is said to be
+the presage of a sudden change from poverty to riches, or rather from
+affluence to poverty and distress; as it was found to be the case in both
+these instances.  And it appears to me very extraordinary that these
+places could not be purified from such illusions, either by the
+sprinkling of holy water, or the assistance of any other religious
+ceremony; for the priests themselves, though protected by the crucifix,
+or the holy water, on devoutly entering the house, were equally subject
+to the same insults.  From whence it appears that things pertaining to
+the sacraments, as well as the sacraments themselves, defend us from
+hurtful, but not from harmless things; from annoyances, but not from
+illusions.  It is worthy of note, that in our time, a woman in Poitou was
+possessed by a demon, who, through her mouth, artfully and acutely
+disputed with the learned.  He sometimes upbraided people with their
+secret actions, and those things which they wished not to hear; but when
+either the books of the gospel, or the relics of saints, were placed upon
+the mouth of the possessed, he fled to the lower part of her throat; and
+when they were removed thither, he descended into her belly.  His
+appearance was indicated by certain inflations and convulsions of the
+parts which he possessed, and when the relics were again placed in the
+lower parts, he directly returned to the upper.  At length, when they
+brought the body of Christ, and gave it to the patient, the demon
+answered, “Ye fools, you are doing nothing, for what you give her is not
+the food of the body, but of the soul; and my power is confined to the
+body, not to the soul.”  But when those persons whom he had upbraided
+with their more serious actions, had confessed, and returned from
+penance, he reproached them no more.  “I have known, indeed,” says he, “I
+have known but now I know not, (he spake this as it were a reproach to
+others), and I hold my tongue, for what I know, I know not.”  From which
+it appears, that after confession and penance, the demons either do not
+know the sins of men, or do not know them to their injury and disgrace;
+because, as Augustine says, “If man conceals, God discovers; if man
+discovers, God conceals.”
+
+Some people are surprised that lightning often strikes our places of
+worship, and damages the crosses and images of him who was crucified,
+before the eyes of one who seeth all things, and permits these
+circumstances to happen; to whom I shall only answer with Ovid,
+
+    “Summa petit livor, perflant altissima venti,
+       Summa petunt dextra fulmina missa Jovis.”
+
+On the same subject, Peter Abelard, in the presence of Philip king of
+France, is said to have answered a Jew, who urged these and similar
+things against the faith.  “It is true that the lightning descending from
+on high, directs itself most commonly to the highest object on earth, and
+to those most resembling its own nature; it never, therefore, injures
+your synagogues, because no man ever saw or heard of its falling upon a
+privy.”  An event worthy of note, happened in our time in France.  During
+a contention between some monks of the Cistercian order, and a certain
+knight, about the limits of their fields and lands, a violent tempest, in
+one night, utterly destroyed and ruined the cultivated grounds of the
+monks, while the adjoining territory of the knight remained undamaged.
+On which occasion he insolently inveighed against the fraternity, and
+publicly asserted that divine vengeance had thus punished them for
+unlawfully keeping possession of his land; to which the abbot wittily
+replied, “It is by no means so; but that the knight had more friends in
+that riding than the monastery;” and he clearly demonstrated that, on the
+other hand, the monks had more enemies in it.
+
+In the province of Penbroch, another instance occurred, about the same
+time, of a spirit’s appearing in the house of Elidore de Stakepole, {88}
+not only sensibly, but visibly, under the form of a red-haired young man,
+who called himself Simon.  First seizing the keys from the person to whom
+they were entrusted, he impudently assumed the steward’s office, which he
+managed so prudently and providently, that all things seemed to abound
+under his care, and there was no deficiency in the house.  Whatever the
+master or mistress secretly thought of having for their daily use or
+provision, he procured with wonderful agility, and without any previous
+directions, saying, “You wished that to be done, and it shall be done for
+you.”  He was also well acquainted with their treasures and secret
+hoards, and sometimes upbraided them on that account; for as often as
+they seemed to act sparingly and avariciously, he used to say, “Why are
+you afraid to spend that heap of gold or silver, since your lives are of
+so short duration, and the money you so cautiously hoard up will never do
+you any service?”  He gave the choicest meat and drink to the rustics and
+hired servants, saying that “Those persons should be abundantly supplied,
+by whose labours they were acquired.”  Whatever he determined should be
+done, whether pleasing or displeasing to his master or mistress (for, as
+we have said before, he knew all their secrets), he completed in his
+usual expeditious manner, without their consent.  He never went to
+church, or uttered one Catholic word.  He did not sleep in the house, but
+was ready at his office in the morning.
+
+He was at length observed by some of the family to hold his nightly
+converse near a mill and a pool of water; upon which discovery he was
+summoned the next morning before the master of the house and his lady,
+and, receiving his discharge, delivered up the keys, which he had held
+for upwards of forty days.  Being earnestly interrogated, at his
+departure, who he was? he answered, “That he was begotten upon the wife
+of a rustic in that parish, by a demon, in the shape of her husband,”
+naming the man, and his father-in-law, then dead, and his mother, still
+alive; the truth of which the woman, upon examination, openly avowed.  A
+similar circumstance happened in our time in Denmark.  A certain unknown
+priest paid court to the archbishop, and, from his obsequious behaviour
+and discreet conduct, his general knowledge of letters and quick memory,
+soon contracted a great familiarity with him.  Conversing one day with
+the archbishop about ancient histories and unknown events, on which topic
+he most frequently heard him with pleasure, it happened that when the
+subject of their discourse was the incarnation of our Lord, he said,
+amongst other things, “Before Christ assumed human nature, the demons had
+great power over mankind, which, at his coming, was much diminished;
+insomuch that they were dispersed on every side, and fled from his
+presence.  Some precipitated themselves into the sea, others into the
+hollow parts of trees, or the clefts of rocks; and I myself leaped into a
+well;” on which he blushed for shame, and took his departure.  The
+archbishop, and those who were with him, being greatly astonished at that
+speech, began to ask questions by turns, and form conjectures; and having
+waited some time (for he was expected to return soon), the archbishop
+ordered some of his attendants to call him, but he was sought for in
+vain, and never re-appeared.  Soon afterwards, two priests, whom the
+archbishop had sent to Rome, returned; and when this event was related to
+them, they began to inquire the day and hour on which the circumstance
+had happened?  On being told it, they declared that on the very same day
+and hour he had met them on the Alps, saying, that he had been sent to
+the court of Rome, on account of some business of his master’s (meaning
+the archbishop), which had lately occurred.  And thus it was proved, that
+a demon had deluded them under a human form.
+
+I ought not to omit mentioning the falcons of these parts, which are
+large, and of a generous kind, and exercise a most severe tyranny over
+the river and land birds.  King Henry II. remained here some time, making
+preparations for his voyage to Ireland; and being desirous of taking the
+diversion of hawking, he accidentally saw a noble falcon perched upon a
+rock.  Going sideways round him, he let loose a fine Norway hawk, which
+he carried on his left hand.  The falcon, though at first slower in its
+flight, soaring up to a great height, burning with resentment, and in his
+turn becoming the aggressor, rushed down upon his adversary with the
+greatest impetuosity, and by a violent blow struck the hawk dead at the
+feet of the king.  From that time the king sent every year, about the
+breeding season, for the falcons {90} of this country, which are produced
+on the sea cliffs; nor can better be found in any part of his dominions.
+But let us now return to our Itinerary.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+OF THE PROGRESS BY CAMROS AND NIWEGAL
+
+
+FROM Haverford we proceeded on our journey to Menevia, distant from
+thence about twelve miles, and passed through Camros, {91a} where, in the
+reign of king Stephen, the relations and friends of a distinguished young
+man, Giraldus, son of William, revenged his death by a too severe
+retaliation on the men of Ros.  We then passed over Niwegal sands, at
+which place (during the winter that king Henry II. spent in Ireland), as
+well as in almost all the other western ports, a very remarkable
+circumstance occurred.  The sandy shores of South Wales, being laid bare
+by the extraordinary violence of a storm, the surface of the earth, which
+had been covered for many ages, re-appeared, and discovered the trunks of
+trees cut off, standing in the very sea itself, the strokes of the
+hatchet appearing as if made only yesterday. {91b}  The soil was very
+black, and the wood like ebony.  By a wonderful revolution, the road for
+ships became impassable, and looked, not like a shore, but like a grove
+cut down, perhaps, at the time of the deluge, or not long after, but
+certainly in very remote ages, being by degrees consumed and swallowed up
+by the violence and encroachments of the sea.  During the same tempest
+many sea fish were driven, by the violence of the wind and waves, upon
+dry land.  We were well lodged at St. David’s by Peter, bishop of the
+see, a liberal man, who had hitherto accompanied us during the whole of
+our journey.
+
+
+
+
+BOOK II
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+SINCE, therefore, St. David’s is the head, and in times past was the
+metropolitan, city of Wales, though now, alas! retaining more of the
+_name_ than of the _omen_, {94} yet I have not forborne to weep over the
+obsequies of our ancient and undoubted mother, to follow the mournful
+hearse, and to deplore with tearful sighs the ashes of our half-buried
+matron.  I shall, therefore, endeavour briefly to declare to you in what
+manner, from whence, and from what period the pall was first brought to
+St. David’s, and how it was taken away; how many prelates were invested
+with the pall; and how many were despoiled thereof; together with their
+respective names to this present day.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+OF THE SEE OF SAINT DAVID’S
+
+
+WE are informed by the British histories, that Dubricius, archbishop of
+Caerleon, sensible of the infirmities of age, or rather being desirous of
+leading a life of contemplation, resigned his honours to David, who is
+said to have been uncle to king Arthur; and by his interest the see was
+translated to Menevia, although Caerleon, as we have observed in the
+first book, was much better adapted for the episcopal see.  For Menevia
+is situated in a most remote corner of land upon the Irish ocean, the
+soil stony and barren, neither clothed with woods, distinguished by
+rivers, nor adorned by meadows, ever exposed to the winds and tempests,
+and continually subject to the hostile attacks of the Flemings on one
+side, and of the Welsh on the other.  For the holy men who settled here,
+chose purposely such a retired habitation, that by avoiding the noise of
+the world, and preferring an heremitical to a pastoral life, they might
+more freely provide for “that part which shall not be taken away;” for
+David was remarkable for his sanctity and religion, as the history of his
+life will testify.  Amongst the many miracles recorded of him, three
+appear to me the most worthy of admiration: his origin and conception;
+his pre-election thirty years before his birth; and what exceeds all, the
+sudden rising of the ground, at Brevy, under his feet while preaching, to
+the great astonishment of all the beholders.
+
+Since the time of David, twenty-five archbishops presided over the see of
+Menevia, whose names are here subjoined: David, Cenauc, Eliud, who was
+also called Teilaus, Ceneu, Morwal, Haerunen, Elwaed, Gurnuen, Lendivord,
+Gorwysc, Cogan, Cledauc, Anian, Euloed, Ethelmen, Elauc, Malscoed,
+Sadermen, Catellus, Sulhaithnai, Nonis, Etwal, Asser, Arthuael, Sampson.
+In the time of Sampson, the pall was translated from Menevia in the
+following manner: a disorder called the yellow plague, and by the
+physicians the icteric passion, of which the people died in great
+numbers, raged throughout Wales, at the time when Sampson held the
+archiepiscopal see.  Though a holy man, and fearless of death, he was
+prevailed upon, by the earnest intreaties of his people, to go on board a
+vessel, which was wafted, by a south wind, to Britannia Armorica, {96}
+where he and his attendants were safely landed.  The see of Dol being at
+that time vacant, he was immediately elected bishop.  Hence it came to
+pass, that on account of the pall which Sampson had brought thither with
+him, the succeeding bishops, even to our times, always retained it.  But
+during the presidency of the archbishop of Tours, this adventitious
+dignity ceased; yet our countrymen, through indolence or poverty, or
+rather owing to the arrival of the English into the island, and the
+frequent hostilities committed against them by the Saxons, lost their
+archiepiscopal honours.  But until the entire subjugation of Wales by
+king Henry I., the Welsh bishops were always consecrated by the bishop of
+St. David’s; and he was consecrated by his suffragans, without any
+profession or submission being made to any other church.
+
+From the time of Sampson to that of king Henry I., nineteen bishops
+presided over this see: Ruelin, Rodherch, Elguin, Lunuerd, Nergu,
+Sulhidir, Eneuris, Morgeneu, who was the first bishop of St. David’s who
+ate flesh, and was there killed by pirates; and he appeared to a certain
+bishop in Ireland on the night of his death, shewing his wounds, and
+saying, “Because I ate flesh, I am become flesh.”  Nathan, Ievan (who was
+bishop only one night), Argustel, Morgenueth, Ervin, Tramerin, Joseph,
+Bleithud, Sulghein, Abraham, Wilfred.  Since the subjugation of Wales to
+the present time, three only have held the see: in the reign of king
+Henry I., Bernard; in the reign of king Stephen, David II.; and in the
+reign of king Henry II., Peter, a monk of the order of Cluny; who all, by
+the king’s mandate, were consecrated at Canterbury; as also Geoffrey,
+prior and canon of Lanthoni, who succeeded them in the reign of king
+John, and was preferred to this see by the interest of Hubert, archbishop
+of Canterbury, and afterwards consecrated by him.  We do not hear that
+either before or after that subjugation, any archbishop of Canterbury
+ever entered the borders of Wales, except Baldwin, a monk of the
+Cistercian order, abbot of Ford, and afterwards bishop of Worcester, who
+traversed that rough, inaccessible, and remote country with a laudable
+devotion for the service of the cross; and as a token of investiture,
+celebrated mass in all the cathedral churches.  So that till lately the
+see of St. David’s owed no subjection to that of Canterbury, as may be
+seen in the English History of Bede, who says that “Augustine, bishop of
+the Angles, after the conversion of king Ethelfred and the English
+people, called together the bishops of Wales on the confines of the West
+Saxons, as legate of the apostolic see.  When the seven bishops {97}
+appeared, Augustine, sitting in his chair, with Roman pride, did not rise
+up at their entrance.  Observing his haughtiness (after the example of a
+holy anchorite of their nation), they immediately returned, and treated
+him and his statutes with contempt, publicly proclaiming that they would
+not acknowledge him for their archbishop; alleging, that if he now
+refused to rise up to us, how much more will he hold us in contempt, if
+we submit to be subject to him?”  That there were at that time seven
+bishops in Wales, and now only four, may be thus accounted for; because
+perhaps there were formerly more cathedral churches in Wales than there
+are at present, or the extent of Wales might have been greater.  Amongst
+so many bishops thus deprived of their dignity, Bernard, the first French
+[_i.e._ Norman] bishop of St. David’s, alone defended the rights of his
+church in a public manner; and after many expensive and vexatious appeals
+to the court of Rome, would not have reclaimed them in vain, if false
+witnesses had not publicly appeared at the council of Rheims, before pope
+Eugenius, and testified that he had made profession and submission to the
+see of Canterbury.  Supported by three auxiliaries, the favour and
+intimacy of king Henry, a time of peace, and consequent plenty, he boldly
+hazarded the trial of so great a cause, and so confident was he of his
+just right, that he sometimes caused the cross to be carried before him
+during his journey through Wales.
+
+Bernard, however commendable in some particulars, was remarkable for his
+insufferable pride and ambition.  For as soon as he became courtier and a
+creature of the king’s, panting after English riches by means of
+translation, (a malady under which all the English sent hither seem to
+labour), he alienated many of the lands of his church without either
+advantage or profit, and disposed of others so indiscreetly and
+improvidently, that when ten carucates {98} of land were required for
+military purposes, he would, with a liberal hand, give twenty or thirty;
+and of the canonical rites and ordinances which he had miserably and
+unhappily instituted at St. David’s, he would hardly make use of one, at
+most only of two or three.  With respect to the two sees of Canterbury
+and St. David’s, I will briefly explain my opinion of their present
+state.  On one side, you will see royal favour, affluence of riches,
+numerous and opulent suffragan bishops, great abundance of learned men
+and well skilled in the laws; on the other side, a deficiency of all
+these things, and a total want of justice; on which account the recovery
+of its ancient rights will not easily be effected, but by means of those
+great changes and vicissitudes which kingdoms experience from various and
+unexpected events.
+
+The spot where the church of St. David’s stands, and was founded in
+honour of the apostle St. Andrew, is called the Vale of Roses; which
+ought rather to be named the vale of marble, since it abounds with one,
+and by no means with the other.  The river Alun, a muddy and unproductive
+rivulet, {99a} bounding the churchyard on the northern side, flows under
+a marble stone, called Lechlavar, which has been polished by continual
+treading of passengers, and concerning the name, size, and quality of
+which we have treated in our Vaticinal History. {99b}  Henry II., on his
+return from Ireland, is said to have passed over this stone, before he
+devoutly entered the church of St. Andrew and St. David.  Having left the
+following garrisons in Ireland, namely, Hugh de Lacy (to whom he had
+given Meath in fee) in Dublin, with twenty knights; Fitz-Stephen and
+Maurice Fitzgerald, with other twenty; Humphrey de Bohun, Robert
+Fitz-Bernard, and Hugh de Grainville at Waterford, with forty; and
+William Fitz-Adelm and Philip de Braose at Wexford, with twenty; on the
+second day of Easter, the king embarked at sunrise on board a vessel in
+the outward port of Wexford, and, with a south wind, landed about noon in
+the harbour of Menevia.  Proceeding towards the shrine of St. David,
+habited like a pilgrim, and leaning on a staff, he met at the white gate
+a procession of the canons of the church coming forth to receive him with
+due honour and reverence.  As the procession solemnly moved along, a
+Welsh woman threw herself at the king’s feet, and made a complaint
+against the bishop of the place, which was explained to the king by an
+interpreter.  The woman, immediate attention not being paid to her
+petition, with violent gesticulation, and a loud and impertinent voice,
+exclaimed repeatedly, “Revenge us this day, Lechlavar! revenge us and the
+nation in this man!”  On being chidden and driven away by those who
+understood the British language, she more vehemently and forcibly
+vociferated in the like manner, alluding to the vulgar fiction and
+proverb of Merlin, “That a king of England, and conqueror of Ireland,
+should be wounded in that country by a man with a red hand, and die upon
+Lechlavar, on his return through Menevia.”  This was the name of that
+stone which serves as a bridge over the river Alun, which divides the
+cemetery from the northern side of the church.  It was a beautiful piece
+of marble, polished by the feet of passengers, ten feet in length, six in
+breadth, and one in thickness.  Lechlavar signifies in the British
+language a talking stone. {100}  There was an ancient tradition
+respecting this stone, that at a time when a corpse was carried over it
+for interment, it broke forth into speech, and by the effort cracked in
+the middle, which fissure is still visible; and on account of this
+barbarous and ancient superstition, the corpses are no longer brought
+over it.  The king, who had heard the prophecy, approaching the stone,
+stopped for a short time at the foot of it, and, looking earnestly at it,
+boldly passed over; then, turning round, and looking towards the stone,
+thus indignantly inveighed against the prophet: “Who will hereafter give
+credit to the lying Merlin?”  A person standing by, and observing what
+had passed, in order to vindicate the injury done to the prophet,
+replied, with a loud voice, “Thou art not that king by whom Ireland is to
+be conquered, or of whom Merlin prophesied!”  The king then entering the
+church founded in honour of St. Andrew and St. David, devoutly offered up
+his prayers, and heard mass performed by a chaplain, whom alone, out of
+so large a body of priests, Providence seems to have kept fasting till
+that hour, for this very purpose.  Having supped at St. David’s, the king
+departed for the castle of Haverford, distant about twelve miles.  It
+appears very remarkable to me, that in our days, when David II. presided
+over the see, the river should have flowed with wine, and that the
+spring, called Pistyll Dewi, or the _Pipe_ of David, from its flowing
+through a pipe into the eastern side of the churchyard, should have run
+with milk.  The birds also of that place, called jackdaws, from being so
+long unmolested by the clergy of the church, were grown so tame and
+domesticated, as not to be afraid of persons dressed in black.  In clear
+weather the mountains of Ireland are visible from hence, and the passage
+over the Irish sea may be performed in one short day; on which account
+William, the son of William the Bastard, and the second of the Norman
+kings in England, who was called Rufus, and who had penetrated far into
+Wales, on seeing Ireland from these rocks, is reported to have said, “I
+will summon hither all the ships of my realm, and with them make a bridge
+to attack that country.”  Which speech being related to Murchard, prince
+of Leinster, he paused awhile, and answered, “Did the king add to this
+mighty threat, If God please?” and being informed that he had made no
+mention of God in his speech, rejoicing in such a prognostic, he replied,
+“Since that man trusts in human, not divine power, I fear not his
+coming.”
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+OF THE JOURNEY BY CEMMEIS—THE MONASTERY OF ST. DOGMAEL
+
+
+THE archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning before the
+high altar of the church of St. David, and enjoined to the archdeacon
+(Giraldus) the office of preaching to the people, hastened through
+Cemmeis {102a} to meet prince Rhys at Aberteive. {102b}  Two
+circumstances occurred in the province of Cemmeis, the one in our own
+time, the other a little before, which I think right not to pass over in
+silence.  In our time, a young man, native of this country, during a
+severe illness, suffered as violent a persecution from toads, {102c} as
+if the reptiles of the whole province had come to him by agreement; and
+though destroyed by his nurses and friends, they increased again on all
+sides in infinite numbers, like hydras’ heads.  His attendants, both
+friends and strangers, being wearied out, he was drawn up in a kind of
+bag, into a high tree, stripped of its leaves, and shred; nor was he
+there secure from his venomous enemies, for they crept up the tree in
+great numbers, and consumed him even to the very bones.  The young man’s
+name was Sisillus Esceir-hir, that is, Sisillus Long Leg.  It is also
+recorded that by the hidden but never unjust will of God, another man
+suffered a similar persecution from rats.  In the same province, during
+the reign of king Henry I., a rich man, who had a residence on the
+northern side of the Preseleu mountains, {103a} was warned for three
+successive nights, by dreams, that if he put his hand under a stone which
+hung over the spring of a neighbouring well, called the fountain of St.
+Bernacus, {103b} he would find there a golden torques.  Obeying the
+admonition on the third day, he received, from a viper, a deadly wound in
+his finger; but as it appears that many treasures have been discovered
+through dreams, it seems to me probable that, with respect to rumours, in
+the same manner as to dreams, some ought, and some ought not, to be
+believed.
+
+I shall not pass over in silence the circumstance which occurred in the
+principal castle of Cemmeis at Lanhever, {103c} in our days.  Rhys, son
+of Gruffydd, by the instigation of his son Gruffydd, a cunning and artful
+man, took away by force, from William, son of Martin (de Tours), his
+son-in-law, the castle of Lanhever, notwithstanding he had solemnly
+sworn, by the most precious relics, that his indemnity and security
+should be faithfully maintained, and, contrary to his word and oath, gave
+it to his son Gruffydd; but since “A sordid prey has not a good ending,”
+the Lord, who by the mouth of his prophet, exclaims “Vengeance is mine,
+and I will repay!” ordained that the castle should be taken away from the
+contriver of this wicked plot, Gruffydd, and bestowed upon the man in the
+world he most hated, his brother Malgon.  Rhys, also, about two years
+afterwards, intending to disinherit his own daughter, and two
+granddaughters and grandsons, by a singular instance of divine vengeance,
+was taken prisoner by his sons in battle, and confined in this same
+castle; thus justly suffering the greatest disgrace and confusion in the
+very place where he had perpetrated an act of the most consummate
+baseness.  I think it also worthy to be remembered, that at the time this
+misfortune befell him, he had concealed in his possession, at Dinevor,
+the collar of St. Canauc of Brecknock, for which, by divine vengeance, he
+merited to be taken prisoner and confined.
+
+We slept that night in the monastery of St. Dogmael, where, as well as on
+the next day at Aberteivi, we were handsomely entertained by prince Rhys.
+On the Cemmeis side of the river, not far from the bridge, the people of
+the neighbourhood being assembled together, and Rhys and his two sons,
+Malgon and Gruffydd, being present, the word of the Lord was persuasively
+preached both by the archbishop and the archdeacon, and many were induced
+to take the cross; one of whom was an only son, and the sole comfort of
+his mother, far advanced in years, who, steadfastly gazing on him, as if
+inspired by the Deity, uttered these words:—“O, most beloved Lord Jesus
+Christ, I return thee hearty thanks for having conferred on me the
+blessing of bringing forth a son, whom thou mayest think worthy of thy
+service.”  Another woman at Aberteivi, of a very different way of
+thinking, held her husband fast by his cloak and girdle, and publicly and
+audaciously prevented him from going to the archbishop to take the cross;
+but, three nights afterwards, she heard a terrible voice, saying, “Thou
+hast taken away my servant from me, therefore what thou most lovest shall
+be taken away from thee.”  On her relating this vision to her husband,
+they were struck with mutual terror and amazement; and on falling asleep
+again, she unhappily overlaid her little boy, whom, with more affection
+than prudence, she had taken to bed with her.  The husband, relating to
+the bishop of the diocese both the vision and its fatal prediction, took
+the cross, which his wife spontaneously sewed on her husband’s arm.
+
+Near the head of the bridge where the sermons were delivered, the people
+immediately marked out the site for a chapel, {105a} on a verdant plain,
+as a memorial of so great an event; intending that the altar should be
+placed on the spot where the archbishop stood while addressing the
+multitude; and it is well known that many miracles (the enumeration of
+which would be too tedious to relate) were performed on the crowds of
+sick people who resorted hither from different parts of the country.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+OF THE RIVER TEIVI, CARDIGAN, AND EMELYN
+
+
+THE noble river Teivi flows here, and abounds with the finest salmon,
+more than any other river of Wales; it has a productive fishery near
+Cilgerran, which is situated on the summit of a rock, at a place called
+Canarch Mawr, {105b} the ancient residence of St. Ludoc, where the river,
+falling from a great height, forms a cataract, which the salmon ascend,
+by leaping from the bottom to the top of a rock, which is about the
+height of the longest spear, and would appear wonderful, were it not the
+nature of that species of fish to leap: hence they have received the name
+of salmon, from _salio_.  Their particular manner of leaping (as I have
+specified in my Topography of Ireland) is thus: fish of this kind,
+naturally swimming against the course of the river (for as birds fly
+against the wind, so do fish swim against the stream), on meeting with
+any sudden obstacle, bend their tail towards their mouth, and sometimes,
+in order to give a greater power to their leap, they press it with their
+mouth, and suddenly freeing themselves from this circular form, they
+spring with great force (like a bow let loose) from the bottom to the top
+of the leap, to the great astonishment of the beholders.  The church
+dedicated to St. Ludoc, {106a} the mill, bridge, salmon leap, an orchard
+with a delightful garden, all stand together on a small plot of ground.
+The Teivi has another singular particularity, being the only river in
+Wales, or even in England, which has beavers; {106b} in Scotland they are
+said to be found in one river, but are very scarce.  I think it not a
+useless labour, to insert a few remarks respecting the nature of these
+animals—the manner in which they bring their materials from the woods to
+the water, and with what skill they connect them in the construction of
+their dwellings in the midst of rivers; their means of defence on the
+eastern and western sides against hunters; and also concerning their
+fish-like tails.
+
+The beavers, in order to construct their castles in the middle of rivers,
+make use of the animals of their own species instead of carts, who, by a
+wonderful mode of carnage, convey the timber from the woods to the
+rivers.  Some of them, obeying the dictates of nature, receive on their
+bellies the logs of wood cut off by their associates, which they hold
+tight with their feet, and thus with transverse pieces placed in their
+mouths, are drawn along backwards, with their cargo, by other beavers,
+who fasten themselves with their teeth to the raft.  The moles use a
+similar artifice in clearing out the dirt from the cavities they form by
+scraping.  In some deep and still corner of the river, the beavers use
+such skill in the construction of their habitations, that not a drop of
+water can penetrate, or the force of storms shake them; nor do they fear
+any violence but that of mankind, nor even that, unless well armed.  They
+entwine the branches of willows with other wood, and different kinds of
+leaves, to the usual height of the water, and having made within-side a
+communication from floor to floor, they elevate a kind of stage, or
+scaffold, from which they may observe and watch the rising of the waters.
+In the course of time, their habitations bear the appearance of a grove
+of willow trees, rude and natural without, but artfully constructed
+within.  This animal can remain in or under water at its pleasure, like
+the frog or seal, who shew, by the smoothness or roughness of their
+skins, the flux and reflux of the sea.  These three animals, therefore,
+live indifferently under the water, or in the air, and have short legs,
+broad bodies, stubbed tails, and resemble the mole in their corporal
+shape.  It is worthy of remark, that the beaver has but four teeth, two
+above, and two below, which being broad and sharp, cut like a carpenter’s
+axe, and as such he uses them.  They make excavations and dry hiding
+places in the banks near their dwellings, and when they hear the stroke
+of the hunter, who with sharp poles endeavours to penetrate them, they
+fly as soon as possible to the defence of their castle, having first
+blown out the water from the entrance of the hole, and rendered it foul
+and muddy by scraping the earth, in order thus artfully to elude the
+stratagems of the well-armed hunter, who is watching them from the
+opposite banks of the river.  When the beaver finds he cannot save
+himself from the pursuit of the dogs who follow him, that he may ransom
+his body by the sacrifice of a part, he throws away that, which by
+natural instinct he knows to be the object sought for, and in the sight
+of the hunter castrates himself, from which circumstance he has gained
+the name of Castor; and if by chance the dogs should chase an animal
+which had been previously castrated, he has the sagacity to run to an
+elevated spot, and there lifting up his leg, shews the hunter that the
+object of his pursuit is gone.  Cicero speaking of them says, “They
+ransom themselves by that part of the body, for which they are chiefly
+sought.”  And Juvenal says,
+
+    “—Qui se
+    Eunuchum ipse facit, cupiens evadere damno
+    Testiculi.”
+
+And St. Bernard,
+
+    “Prodit enim castor proprio de corpore velox
+       Reddere quas sequitur hostis avarus opes.”
+
+Thus, therefore, in order to preserve his skin, which is sought after in
+the west, and the medicinal part of his body, which is coveted in the
+east, although he cannot save himself entirely, yet, by a wonderful
+instinct and sagacity, he endeavours to avoid the stratagems of his
+pursuers.  The beavers have broad, short tails, thick, like the palm of a
+hand, which they use as a rudder in swimming; and although the rest of
+their body is hairy, this part, like that of seals, is without hair, and
+smooth; upon which account, in Germany and the arctic regions, where
+beavers abound, great and religious persons, in times of fasting, eat the
+tails of this fish-like animal, as having both the taste and colour of
+fish.
+
+We proceeded on our journey from Cilgerran towards Pont-Stephen, {109a}
+leaving Cruc Mawr, _i.e._ the great hill, near Aberteivi, on our left
+hand.  On this spot Gruffydd, son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, soon after the death
+of king Henry I., by a furious onset gained a signal victory against the
+English army, which, by the murder of the illustrious Richard de Clare,
+near Abergevenny (before related), had lost its leader and chief. {109b}
+A tumulus is to be seen on the summit of the aforesaid hill, and the
+inhabitants affirm that it will adapt itself to persons of all stature
+and that if any armour is left there entire in the evening, it will be
+found, according to vulgar tradition, broken to pieces in the morning.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+OF THE JOURNEY BY PONT STEPHEN, THE ABBEY OF STRATFLUR, LANDEWI BREVI,
+AND LHANPADARN VAWR
+
+
+A SERMON having been preached on the following morning at Pont Stephen,
+{109c} by the archbishop and archdeacon, and also by two abbots of the
+Cistercian order, John of Albadomus, and Sisillus of Stratflur, {109d}
+who faithfully attended us in those parts, and as far as North Wales,
+many persons were induced to take the cross.  We proceeded to Stratflur,
+where we passed the night.  On the following morning, having on our right
+the lofty mountains of Moruge, which in Welsh are called Ellennith,
+{110a} we were met near the side of a wood by Cyneuric son of Rhys,
+accompanied by a body of light-armed youths.  This young man was of a
+fair complexion, with curled hair, tall and handsome; clothed only,
+according to the custom of his country, with a thin cloak and inner
+garment, his legs and feet, regardless of thorns and thistles were left
+bare; a man, not adorned by art, but nature; bearing in his presence an
+innate, not an acquired, dignity of manners.  A sermon having been
+preached to these three young men, Gruffydd, Malgon, and Cyneuric, in the
+presence of their father, prince Rhys, and the brothers disputing about
+taking the cross, at length Malgon strictly promised that he would
+accompany the archbishop to the king’s court, and would obey the king’s
+and archbishop’s counsel, unless prevented by them.  From thence we
+passed through Landewi Brevi, {110b} that is, the church of David of
+Brevi, situated on the summit of that hill which had formerly risen up
+under his feet whilst preaching, during the period of that celebrated
+synod, when all the bishops, abbots, and clergy of Wales, and many other
+persons, were collected thither on account of the Pelagian heresy, which,
+although formerly exploded from Britain by Germanus, bishop of Auxerre,
+had lately been revived in these parts.  At this place David was
+reluctantly raised to the archbishopric, by the unanimous consent and
+election of the whole assembly, who by loud acclamations testified their
+admiration of so great a miracle.  Dubricius had a short time before
+resigned to him this honour in due form at Caerleon, from which city the
+metropolitan see was transferred to St. David’s.
+
+Having rested that night at Lhanpadarn Vawr, {111} or the church of
+Paternus the Great, we attracted many persons to the service of Christ on
+the following morning.  It is remarkable that this church, like many
+others in Wales and Ireland, has a lay abbot; for a bad custom has
+prevailed amongst the clergy, of appointing the most powerful people of a
+parish stewards, or, rather, patrons, of their churches; who, in process
+of time, from a desire of gain, have usurped the whole right,
+appropriating to their own use the possession of all the lands, leaving
+only to the clergy the altars, with their tenths and oblations, and
+assigning even these to their sons and relations in the church.  Such
+defenders, or rather destroyers, of the church, have caused themselves to
+be called abbots, and presumed to attribute to themselves a title, as
+well as estates, to which they have no just claim.  In this state we
+found the church of Lhanpadarn, without a head.  A certain old man, waxen
+old in iniquity (whose name was Eden Oen, son of Gwaithwoed), being
+abbot, and his sons officiating at the altar.  But in the reign of king
+Henry I., when the authority of the English prevailed in Wales, the
+monastery of St. Peter at Gloucester held quiet possession of this
+church; but after his death, the English being driven out, the monks were
+expelled from their cloisters, and their places supplied by the same
+violent intrusion of clergy and laity, which had formerly been practised.
+It happened that in the reign of king Stephen, who succeeded Henry I., a
+knight, born in Armorican Britain, having travelled through many parts of
+the world, from a desire of seeing different cities, and the manners of
+their inhabitants, came by chance to Lhanpadarn.  On a certain feast-day,
+whilst both the clergy and people were waiting for the arrival of the
+abbot to celebrate mass, he perceived a body of young men, armed,
+according to the custom of their country, approaching towards the church;
+and on enquiring which of them was the abbot, they pointed out to him a
+man walking foremost, with a long spear in his hand.  Gazing on him with
+amazement, he asked, “If the abbot had not another habit, or a different
+staff, from that which he now carried before him?”  On their answering,
+“No!” he replied, “I have seen indeed and heard this day a wonderful
+novelty!” and from that hour he returned home, and finished his labours
+and researches.  This wicked people boasts, that a certain bishop {112}
+of their church (for it formerly was a cathedral) was murdered by their
+predecessors; and on this account, chiefly, they ground their claims of
+right and possession.  No public complaint having been made against their
+conduct, we have thought it more prudent to pass over, for the present,
+the enormities of this wicked race with dissimulation, than exasperate
+them by a further relation.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+OF THE RIVER DEVI, AND THE LAND OF THE SONS OF CONAN
+
+
+APPROACHING to the river Devi, {113a} which divides North and South
+Wales, the bishop of St. David’s, and Rhys the son of Gruffydd, who with
+a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a prince, had
+accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi, throughout all
+Cardiganshire, to this place, returned home.  Having crossed the river in
+a boat, and quitted the diocese of St. David’s, we entered the land of
+the sons of Conan, or Merionyth, the first province of Venedotia on that
+side of the country, and belonging to the bishopric of Bangor. {113b}  We
+slept that night at Towyn.  Early next morning, Gruffydd son of Conan
+{113c} came to meet us, humbly and devoutly asking pardon for having so
+long delayed his attention to the archbishop.  On the same day, we
+ferried over the bifurcate river Maw, {113d} where Malgo, son of Rhys,
+who had attached himself to the archbishop, as a companion to the king’s
+court, discovered a ford near the sea.  That night we lay at Llanvair,
+{114a} that is the church of St. Mary, in the province of Ardudwy. {114b}
+This territory of Conan, and particularly Merionyth, is the rudest and
+roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are very high
+and narrow, terminating in sharp peaks, and so irregularly jumbled
+together, that if the shepherds conversing or disputing with each other
+from their summits, should agree to meet, they could scarcely effect
+their purpose in the course of the whole day.  The lances of this country
+are very long; for as South Wales excels in the use of the bow, so North
+Wales is distinguished for its skill in the lance; insomuch that an iron
+coat of mail will not resist the stroke of a lance thrown at a small
+distance.  The next morning, the youngest son of Conan, named Meredyth,
+met us at the passage of a bridge, attended by his people, where many
+persons were signed with the cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of
+his suite, and one of his intimate friends; and Meredyth, observing that
+the cloak, on which the cross was to be sewed, appeared of too thin and
+of too common a texture, with a flood of tears, threw him down his own.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+PASSAGE OF TRAETH MAWR AND TRAETH BACHAN, AND OF NEVYN, CARNARVON, AND
+BANGOR
+
+
+WE continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr, {115a} and Traeth Bachan,
+{115b} that is, the greater and the smaller arm of the sea, where two
+stone castles have newly been erected; one called Deudraeth, belonging to
+the sons of Conan, situated in Evionyth, towards the northern mountains;
+the other named Carn Madryn, the property of the sons of Owen, built on
+the other side of the river towards the sea, on the head-land Lleyn.
+{115c}  Traeth, in the Welsh language, signifies a tract of sand flooded
+by the tides, and left bare when the sea ebbs.  We had before passed over
+the noted rivers, the Dissenith, {115d} between the Maw and Traeth Mawr,
+and the Arthro, between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan.  We slept that
+night at Nevyn, on the eve of Palm Sunday, where the archdeacon, after
+long inquiry and research, is said to have found Merlin Sylvestris.
+{115e}
+
+Beyond Lleyn, there is a small island inhabited by very religious monks,
+called Cælibes, or Colidei.  This island, either from the wholesomeness
+of its climate, owing to its vicinity to Ireland, or rather from some
+miracle obtained by the merits of the saints, has this wonderful
+peculiarity, that the oldest people die first, because diseases are
+uncommon, and scarcely any die except from extreme old age.  Its name is
+Enlli in the Welsh, and Berdesey {116a} in the Saxon language; and very
+many bodies of saints are said to be buried there, and amongst them that
+of Daniel, bishop of Bangor.
+
+The archbishop having, by his sermon the next day, induced many persons
+to take the cross, we proceeded towards Banchor, passing through
+Caernarvon, {116b} that is, the castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon, the
+province opposite to Môn, because it is so situated with respect to the
+island of Mona.  Our road leading us to a steep valley, {116c} with many
+broken ascents and descents, we dismounted from our horses, and proceeded
+on foot, rehearsing, as it were, by agreement, some experiments of our
+intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem.  Having traversed the valley, and
+reached the opposite side with considerable fatigue, the archbishop, to
+rest himself and recover his breath, sat down on an oak which had been
+torn up by the violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry
+highly laudable in a person of his approved gravity, thus addressed his
+attendants: “Who amongst you, in this company, can now delight our
+wearied ears by whistling?” which is not easily done by people out of
+breath.  He affirming that he could, if he thought fit, the sweet notes
+are heard, in an adjoining wood, of a bird, which some said was a
+woodpecker, and others, more correctly, an aureolus.  The woodpecker is
+called in French, _spec_, and with its strong bill, perforates oak trees;
+the other bird in called aureolus, from the golden tints of its feathers,
+and at certain seasons utters a sweet whistling note instead of a song.
+Some persons having remarked, that the nightingale was never heard in
+this country, the archbishop, with a significant smile, replied, “The
+nightingale followed wise counsel, and never came into Wales; but we,
+unwise counsel, who have penetrated and gone through it.”  We remained
+that night at Banchor, {117} the metropolitan see of North Wales, and
+were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese. {118a}  On the next
+day, mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high altar, the
+bishop of that see, at the instance of the archbishop and other persons,
+more importunate than persuasive, was compelled to take the cross, to the
+general concern of all his people of both sexes, who expressed their
+grief on this occasion by loud and lamentable vociferations.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+THE ISLAND OF MONA
+
+
+FROM hence, we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of Mona,
+{118b} distant from thence about two miles, where Roderic, the younger
+son of Owen, attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the island, and
+many others from the adjacent countries, came in a devout manner to meet
+us.  Confession having been made in a place near the shore, where the
+surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural theatre, {118c} many persons
+were induced to take the cross, by the persuasive discourses of the
+archbishop, and Alexander, our interpreter, archdeacon of that place, and
+of Sisillus, abbot of Stratflur.  Many chosen youths of the family of
+Roderic were seated on an opposite rock, and not one of them could be
+prevailed upon to take the cross, although the archbishop and others most
+earnestly exhorted them, but in vain, by an address particularly directed
+to them.  It came to pass within three days, as if by divine vengeance,
+that these young men, with many others, pursued some robbers of that
+country.  Being discomfited and put to flight, some were slain, others
+mortally wounded, and the survivors voluntarily assumed that cross they
+had before despised.  Roderic, also, who a short time before had
+incestuously married the daughter of Rhys, related to him by blood in the
+third degree, in order, by the assistance of that prince, to be better
+able to defend himself against the sons of his brothers, whom he had
+disinherited, not paying attention to the wholesome admonitions of the
+archbishop on this subject, was a little while afterwards dispossessed of
+all his lands by their means; thus deservedly meeting with disappointment
+from the very source from which he expected support.  The island of Mona
+contains three hundred and forty-three vills, considered equal to three
+cantreds.  Cantred, a compound word from the British and Irish languages,
+is a portion of land equal to one hundred vills.  There are three islands
+contiguous to Britain, on its different sides, which are said to be
+nearly of an equal size—the Isle of Wight on the south, Mona on the west,
+and Mania (Man) on the north-west side.  The two first are separated from
+Britain by narrow channels; the third is much further removed, lying
+almost midway between the countries of Ulster in Ireland and Galloway in
+Scotland.  The island of Mona is an arid and stony land, rough and
+unpleasant in its appearance, similar in its exterior qualities to the
+land of Pebidion, {120a} near St. David’s, but very different as to its
+interior value.  For this island is incomparably more fertile in corn
+than any other part of Wales, from whence arose the British proverb, “Mon
+mam Cymbry, Mona mother of Wales;” and when the crops have been defective
+in all other parts of the country, this island, from the richness of its
+soil and abundant produce, has been able to supply all Wales.
+
+As many things within this island are worthy of remark, I shall not think
+it superfluous to make mention of some of them.  There is a stone here
+resembling a human thigh, {120b} which possesses this innate virtue, that
+whatever distance it may be carried, it returns, of its own accord, the
+following night, as has often been experienced by the inhabitants.  Hugh,
+earl of Chester, {120c} in the reign of king Henry I., having by force
+occupied this island and the adjacent country, heard of the miraculous
+power of this stone, and, for the purpose of trial, ordered it to be
+fastened, with strong iron chains, to one of a larger size, and to be
+thrown into the sea.  On the following morning, however, according to
+custom, it was found in its original position, on which account the earl
+issued a public edict, that no one, from that time, should presume to
+move the stone from its place.  A countryman, also, to try the powers of
+this stone, fastened it to his thigh, which immediately became putrid,
+and the stone returned to its original situation.
+
+There is in the same island a stony hill, not very large or high, from
+one side of which, if you cry aloud, you will not be heard on the other;
+and it is called (by anti-phrasis) the rock of hearers.  In the northern
+part of Great Britain (Northumberland) so named by the English, from its
+situation beyond the river Humber, there is a hill of a similar nature,
+where if a loud horn or trumpet is sounded on one side, it cannot be
+heard on the opposite one.  There is also in this island the church of
+St. Tefredaucus, {121} into which Hugh, earl of Shrewsbury, (who,
+together with the earl of Chester, had forcibly entered Anglesey), on a
+certain night put some dogs, which on the following morning were found
+mad, and he himself died within a month; for some pirates, from the
+Orcades, having entered the port of the island in their long vessels, the
+earl, apprised of their approach, boldly met them, rushing into the sea
+upon a spirited horse.  The commander of the expedition, Magnus, standing
+on the prow of the foremost ship, aimed an arrow at him; and, although
+the earl was completely equipped in a coat of mail, and guarded in every
+part of his body except his eyes, the unlucky weapon struck his right
+eye, and, entering his brain, he fell a lifeless corpse into the sea.
+The victor, seeing him in this state, proudly and exultingly exclaimed,
+in the Danish tongue, “Leit loup,” let him leap; and from this time the
+power of the English ceased in Anglesey.  In our times, also, when Henry
+II. was leading an army into North Wales, where he had experienced the
+ill fortune of war in a narrow, woody pass near Coleshulle, he sent a
+fleet into Anglesey, and began to plunder the aforesaid church, and other
+sacred places.  But the divine vengeance pursued him, for the inhabitants
+rushed upon the invaders, few against many, unarmed against armed; and
+having slain great numbers, and taken many prisoners, gained a most
+complete and bloody victory.  For, as our Topography of Ireland
+testifies, that the Welsh and Irish are more prone to anger and revenge
+than any other nations, the saints, likewise, of those countries appear
+to be of a more vindictive nature.
+
+Two noble persons, and uncles of the author of this book, were sent
+thither by the king; namely, Henry, son of king Henry I., and uncle to
+king Henry II., by Nest, daughter of Rhys, prince of South Wales; and
+Robert Fitz-Stephen, brother to Henry, a man who in our days, shewing the
+way to others, first attacked Ireland, and whose fame is recorded in our
+Vaticinal History.  Henry, actuated by too much valour, and ill
+supported, was pierced by a lance, and fell amongst the foremost, to the
+great concern of his attendants; and Robert, despairing of being able to
+defend himself, was badly wounded, and escaped with difficulty to the
+ships.
+
+There is a small island, almost adjoining to Anglesey, which is inhabited
+by hermits, living by manual labour, and serving God.  It is remarkable
+that when, by the influence of human passions, any discord arises among
+them, all their provisions are devoured and infected by a species of
+small mice, with which the island abounds; but when the discord ceases,
+they are no longer molested.  Nor is it to be wondered at, if the
+servants of God sometimes disagree, since Jacob and Esau contended in the
+womb of Rebecca, and Paul and Barnabas differed; the disciples also of
+Jesus disputed which of them should be the greatest, for these are the
+temptations of human infirmity; yet virtue is often made perfect by
+infirmity, and faith is increased by tribulations.  This island is called
+in Welsh, Ynys Lenach, {123a} or the ecclesiastical island, because many
+bodies of saints are deposited there, and no woman is suffered to enter
+it.
+
+We saw in Anglesey a dog, who accidentally had lost his tail, and whose
+whole progeny bore the same defect.  It is wonderful that nature should,
+as it were, conform itself in this particular to the accident of the
+father.  We saw also a knight, named Earthbald, born in Devonshire, whose
+father, denying the child with which his mother was pregnant, and from
+motives of jealousy accusing her of inconstancy, nature alone decided the
+controversy by the birth of the child, who, by a miracle, exhibited on
+his upper lip a scar, similar to one his father bore in consequence of a
+wound he had received from a lance in one of his military expeditions.
+Stephen, the son of Earthbald, had a similar mark, the accident being in
+a manner converted into nature.  A like miracle of nature occurred in
+earl Alberic, son of Alberic earl of Veer, {123b} whose father, during
+the pregnancy of his mother, the daughter of Henry of Essex, having
+laboured to procure a divorce, on account of the ignominy of her father,
+the child, when born, had the same blemish in its eye, as the father had
+got from a casual hurt.  These defects may be entailed on the offspring,
+perhaps, by the impression made on the memory by frequent and steady
+observation; as it is reported that a queen, accustomed to see the
+picture of a negro in her chamber, unexpectedly brought forth a black
+child, and is exculpated by Quintilian, on account of the picture.  In
+like manner it happened to the spotted sheep, given by Laban out of his
+flock to his nephew Jacob, and which conceived by means of variegated
+rods. {124}  Nor is the child always affected by the mother’s imagination
+alone, but sometimes by that of the father; for it is well known that a
+man, seeing a passenger near him, who was convulsed both behind and
+before, on going home and telling his wife that he could not get the
+impression of this sight off his mind, begat a child who was affected in
+a similar manner.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+PASSAGE OF THE RIVER CONWY IN A BOAT, AND OF DINAS EMRYS
+
+
+ON our return to Banchor from Mona, we were shown the tombs of prince
+Owen and his younger brother Cadwalader, {125a} who were buried in a
+double vault before the high altar, although Owen, on account of his
+public incest with his cousin-german, had died excommunicated by the
+blessed martyr St. Thomas, the bishop of that see having been enjoined to
+seize a proper opportunity of removing his body from the church.  We
+continued our journey on the sea coast, confined on one side by steep
+rocks, and by the sea on the other, towards the river Conwy, which
+preserves its waters unadulterated by the sea.  Not far from the source
+of the river Conwy, at the head of the Eryri mountain, which on this side
+extends itself towards the north, stands Dinas Emrys, that is, the
+promontory of Ambrosius, where Merlin {125b} uttered his prophecies,
+whilst Vortigern was seated upon the bank.  There were two Merlins; the
+one called Ambrosius who prophesied in the time of king Vortigern, was
+begotten by a demon incubus, and found at Caermardin, from which
+circumstance that city derived its name of Caermardin, or the city of
+Merlin; the other Merlin, born in Scotland, was named Celidonius, from
+the Celidonian wood in which he prophesied; and Sylvester, because when
+engaged in martial conflict, he discovered in the air a terrible monster,
+and from that time grew mad, and taking shelter in a wood, passed the
+remainder of his days in a savage state.  This Merlin lived in the time
+of king Arthur, and is said to have prophesied more fully and explicitly
+than the other.  I shall pass over in silence what was done by the sons
+of Owen in our days, after his death, or while he was dying, who, from
+the wicked desire of reigning, totally disregarded the ties of
+fraternity; but I shall not omit mentioning another event which occurred
+likewise in our days.  Owen, {126} son of Gruffyth, prince of North
+Wales, had many sons, but only one legitimate, namely, Iorwerth Drwyndwn,
+which in Welsh means flat-nosed, who had a son named Llewelyn.  This
+young man, being only twelve years of age, began, during the period of
+our journey, to molest his uncles David and Roderic, the sons of Owen by
+Christiana, his cousin-german; and although they had divided amongst
+themselves all North Wales, except the land of Conan, and although David,
+having married the sister of king Henry II., by whom he had one son, was
+powerfully supported by the English, yet within a few years the
+legitimate son, destitute of lands or money (by the aid of divine
+vengeance), bravely expelled from North Wales those who were born in
+public incest, though supported by their own wealth and by that of
+others, leaving them nothing but what the liberality of his own mind and
+the counsel of good men from pity suggested: a proof that adulterous and
+incestuous persons are displeasing to God.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+OF THE MOUNTAINS OF ERYRI
+
+
+I MUST not pass over in silence the mountains called by the Welsh Eryri,
+but by the English Snowdon, or Mountains of Snow, which gradually
+increasing from the land of the sons of Conan, and extending themselves
+northwards near Deganwy, seem to rear their lofty summits even to the
+clouds, when viewed from the opposite coast of Anglesey.  They are said
+to be of so great an extent, that according to an ancient proverb, “As
+Mona could supply corn for all the inhabitants of Wales, so could the
+Eryri mountains afford sufficient pasture for all the herds, if collected
+together.”  Hence these lines of Virgil may be applied to them:—
+
+    “Et quantum longis carpent armenta diebus,
+    Exigua tautum gelidus ros nocte reponet.”
+
+    “And what is cropt by day the night renews,
+    Shedding refreshful stores of cooling dews.”
+
+On the highest parts of these mountains are two lakes worthy of
+admiration.  The one has a floating island in it, which is often driven
+from one side to the other by the force of the winds; and the shepherds
+behold with astonishment their cattle, whilst feeding, carried to the
+distant parts of the lake.  A part of the bank naturally bound together
+by the roots of willows and other shrubs may have been broken off, and
+increased by the alluvion of the earth from the shore; and being
+continually agitated by the winds, which in so elevated a situation blow
+with great violence, it cannot reunite itself firmly with the banks.  The
+other lake is noted for a wonderful and singular miracle.  It contains
+three sorts of fish—eels, trout, and perch, all of which have only one
+eye, the left being wanting; but if the curious reader should demand of
+me the explanation of so extraordinary a circumstance, I cannot presume
+to satisfy him.  It is remarkable also, that in two places in Scotland,
+one near the eastern, the other near the western sea, the fish called
+mullets possess the same defect, having no left eye.  According to vulgar
+tradition, these mountains are frequented by an eagle who, perching on a
+fatal stone every fifth holiday, in order to satiate her hunger with the
+carcases of the slain, is said to expect war on that same day, and to
+have almost perforated the stone by cleaning and sharpening her beak.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+OF THE PASSAGE BY DEGANWY AND RUTHLAN, AND THE SEE OF LANELWY, AND OF
+COLESHULLE
+
+
+HAVING crossed the river Conwy, {128a} or rather an arm of the sea, under
+Deganwy, leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy {128b} on the western
+bank of the river to our right hand, we arrived at Ruthlan, a noble
+castle on the river Cloyd, belonging to David, the eldest son of Owen
+{129a} where, at the earnest invitation of David himself, we were
+handsomely entertained that night.
+
+There is a spring not far from Ruthlan, in the province of Tegengel,
+{129b} which not only regularly ebbs and flows like the sea, twice in
+twenty-four hours, but at other times frequently rises and falls both by
+night and day.  Trogus Pompeius says, “that there is a town of the
+Garamantes, where there is a spring which is hot and cold alternately by
+day and night.” {129c}
+
+Many persons in the morning having been persuaded to dedicate themselves
+to the service of Christ, we proceeded from Ruthlan to the small
+cathedral church of Lanelwy; {129d} from whence (the archbishop having
+celebrated mass) we continued our journey through a country rich in
+minerals of silver, where money is sought in the bowels of the earth, to
+the little cell of Basinwerk, {129e} where we passed the night.  The
+following day we traversed a long quicksand, and not without some degree
+of apprehension, leaving the woody district of Coleshulle, {129f} or hill
+of coal, on our right hand, where Henry II., who in our time, actuated by
+youthful and indiscreet ardour, made a hostile irruption into Wales, and
+presuming to pass through that narrow and woody defile, experienced a
+signal defeat, and a very heavy loss of men. {130}  The aforesaid king
+invaded Wales three times with an army; first, North Wales at the
+above-mentioned place; secondly, South Wales, by the sea-coast of
+Glamorgan and Goer, penetrating as far as Caermarddin and Pencadair, and
+returning by Ellennith and Melenith; and thirdly, the country of Powys,
+near Oswaldestree; but in all these expeditions the king was
+unsuccessful, because he placed no confidence in the prudent and
+well-informed chieftains of the country, but was principally advised by
+people remote from the marches, and ignorant of the manners and customs
+of the natives.  In every expedition, as the artificer is to be trusted
+in his trade, so the advice of those people should be consulted, who, by
+a long residence in the country, are become conversant with the manners
+and customs of the natives; and to whom it is of high importance that the
+power of the hostile nation, with whom, by a long and continued warfare,
+they have contracted an implacable enmity and hatred, should be weakened
+or destroyed, as we have set forth in our Vaticinal History.
+
+In this wood of Coleshulle, a young Welshman was killed while passing
+through the king’s army; the greyhound who accompanied him did not desert
+his master’s corpse for eight days, though without food; but faithfully
+defended it from the attacks of dogs, wolves, and birds of prey, with a
+wonderful attachment.  What son to his father, what Nisus to Euryalus,
+what Polynices to Tydeus, what Orestes to Pylades, would have shewn such
+an affectionate regard?  As a mark of favour to the dog, who was almost
+starved to death, the English, although bitter enemies to the Welsh,
+ordered the body, now nearly putrid, to be deposited in the ground with
+the accustomed offices of humanity.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF CHESTER
+
+
+HAVING crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the Welsh call
+Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the day of absolution (holy
+Thursday), we reached Chester.  As the river Wye towards the south
+separates Wales from England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern
+boundary.  The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the waters of this
+river change their fords every month, and, as it inclines more towards
+England or Wales, they can, with certainty, prognosticate which nation
+will be successful or unfortunate during the year.  This river derives
+its origin from the lake Penmelesmere, {131a} and, although it abounds
+with salmon, yet none are found in the lake.  It is also remarkable, that
+this river is never swollen by rains, but often rises by the violence of
+the winds.
+
+Chester boasts of being the burial-place of Henry, {131b} a Roman
+emperor, who, after having imprisoned his carnal and spiritual father,
+pope Paschal, gave himself up to penitence; and, becoming a voluntary
+exile in this country, ended his days in solitary retirement.  It is also
+asserted, that the remains of Harold are here deposited.  He was the last
+of the Saxon kings in England, and as a punishment for his perjury, was
+defeated in the battle of Hastings, fought against the Normans.  Having
+received many wounds, and lost his left eye by an arrow in that
+engagement, he is said to have escaped to these parts, where, in holy
+conversation, leading the life of an anchorite, and being a constant
+attendant at one of the churches of this city, he is believed to have
+terminated his days happily. {132}  The truth of these two circumstances
+was declared (and not before known) by the dying confession of each
+party.  We saw here, what appeared novel to us, cheese made of deer’s
+milk; for the countess and her mother keeping tame deer, presented to the
+archbishop three small cheeses made from their milk.
+
+In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow partaking of the
+nature of a stag, resembling its mother in the fore parts and the stag in
+its hips, legs, and feet, and having the skin and colour of the stag;
+but, partaking more of the nature of the domestic than of the wild
+animal, it remained with the herd of cattle.  A bitch also was pregnant
+by a monkey, and produced a litter of whelps resembling a monkey before,
+and the dog behind; which the rustic keeper of the military hall seeing
+with astonishment and abhorrence, immediately killed with the stick he
+carried in his hand; thereby incurring the severe resentment and anger of
+his lord, when the latter became acquainted with the circumstance.
+
+In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without hands, to whom
+nature had supplied a remedy for that defect by the flexibility and
+delicacy of the joints of her feet, with which she could sew, or perform
+any work with thread or scissors, as well as other women.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+OF THE JOURNEY BY THE WHITE MONASTERY, OSWALDESTREE, POWYS, AND
+SHREWSBURY
+
+
+THE feast of Easter having been observed with due solemnity, and many
+persons, by the exhortations of the archbishop, signed with the cross, we
+directed our way from Chester to the White Monastery, {133a} and from
+thence towards Oswaldestree; where, on the very borders of Powys, we were
+met by Gruffydd son of Madoc, and Elissa, princes of that country, and
+many others; some few of whom having been persuaded to take the cross
+(for several of the multitude had been previously signed by Reiner,
+{133b} the bishop of that place), Gruffydd, prince of the district,
+publicly adjured, in the presence of the archbishop, his cousin-german,
+Angharad, daughter of prince Owen, whom, according to the vicious custom
+of the country, he had long considered as his wife.  We slept at
+Oswaldestree, or the tree of St. Oswald, and were most sumptuously
+entertained after the English manner, by William Fitz-Alan, {133c} a
+noble and liberal young man.  A short time before, whilst Reiner was
+preaching, a robust youth being earnestly exhorted to follow the example
+of his companions in taking the cross, answered, “I will not follow your
+advice until, with this lance which I bear in my hand, I shall have
+avenged the death of my lord,” alluding to Owen, son of Madoc, a
+distinguished warrior, who had been maliciously and treacherously slain
+by Owen Cyfeilioc, his cousin-german; and while he was thus venting his
+anger and revenge, and violently brandishing his lance, it suddenly
+snapped asunder, and fell disjointed in several pieces to the ground, the
+handle only remaining in his hand.  Alarmed and astonished at this omen,
+which he considered as a certain signal for his taking the cross, he
+voluntarily offered his services.
+
+In this third district of Wales, called Powys, there are most excellent
+studs put apart for breeding, and deriving their origin from some fine
+Spanish horses, which Robert de Belesme, {134a} earl of Shrewsbury,
+brought into this country: on which account the horses sent from hence
+are remarkable for their majestic proportion and astonishing fleetness.
+
+Here king Henry II. entered Powys, in our days, upon an expensive, though
+fruitless, expedition. {134b}  Having dismembered the hostages whom he
+had previously received, he was compelled, by a sudden and violent fall
+of rain, to retreat with his army.  On the preceding day, the chiefs of
+the English army had burned some of the Welsh churches, with the villages
+and churchyards; upon which the sons of Owen the Great, with their
+light-armed troops, stirred up the resentment of their father and the
+other princes of the country, declaring that they would never in future
+spare any churches of the English.  When nearly the whole army was on the
+point of assenting to this determination, Owen, a man of distinguished
+wisdom and moderation—the tumult being in some degree subsided—thus
+spake: “My opinion, indeed, by no means agrees with yours, for we ought
+to rejoice at this conduct of our adversary; for, unless supported by
+divine assistance, we are far inferior to the English; and they, by their
+behaviour, have made God their enemy, who is able most powerfully to
+avenge both himself and us.  We therefore most devoutly promise God that
+we will henceforth pay greater reverence than ever to churches and holy
+places.”  After which, the English army, on the following night,
+experienced (as has before been related) the divine vengeance.
+
+From Oswaldestree, we directed our course towards Shrewsbury
+(_Salopesburia_), which is nearly surrounded by the river Severn, where
+we remained a few days to rest and refresh ourselves; and where many
+people were induced to take the cross, through the elegant sermons of the
+archbishop and archdeacon.  We also excommunicated Owen de Cevelioc,
+because he alone, amongst the Welsh princes, did not come to meet the
+archbishop with his people.  Owen was a man of more fluent speech than
+his contemporary princes, and was conspicuous for the good management of
+his territory.  Having generally favoured the royal cause, and opposed
+the measures of his own chieftains, he had contracted a great familiarity
+with king Henry II.  Being with the king at table at Shrewsbury, Henry,
+as a mark of peculiar honour and regard, sent him one of his own loaves;
+he immediately brake it into small pieces, like alms-bread, and having,
+like an almoner, placed them at a distance from him, he took them up one
+by one and ate them.  The king requiring an explanation of this
+proceeding, Owen, with a smile, replied, “I thus follow the example of my
+lord;” keenly alluding to the avaricious disposition of the king, who was
+accustomed to retain for a long time in his own hands the vacant
+ecclesiastical benefices.
+
+It is to be remarked that three princes, {136} distinguished for their
+justice, wisdom, and princely moderation, ruled, in our time, over the
+three provinces of Wales: Owen, son of Gruffydd, in Venedotia, or North
+Wales; Meredyth, his grandson, son of Gruffydd, who died early in life,
+in South Wales; and Owen de Cevelioc, in Powys.  But two other princes
+were highly celebrated for their generosity; Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd,
+in North Wales, and Gruffydd of Maelor, son of Madoc, in Powys; and Rhys,
+son of Gruffydd, in South Wales, deserved commendation for his
+enterprising and independent spirit.  In North Wales, David, son of Owen,
+and on the borders of Morgannoc, in South Wales, Howel, son of Iorwerth
+of Caerleon, maintained their good faith and credit, by observing a
+strict neutrality between the Welsh and English.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+OF THE JOURNEY BY WENLOCH, BRUMFELD, THE CASTLE OF LUDLOW, AND
+LEOMINSTER, TO HEREFORD
+
+
+FROM Shrewsbury, we continued our journey towards Wenloch, by a narrow
+and rugged way, called Evil-street, where, in our time, a Jew, travelling
+with the archdeacon of the place, whose name was Sin (_Peccatum_), and
+the dean, whose name was Devil, towards Shrewsbury, hearing the
+archdeacon say, that his archdeaconry began at a place called
+Evil-street, and extended as far as Mal-pas, towards Chester, pleasantly
+told them, “It would be a miracle, if his fate brought him safe out of a
+country, whose archdeacon was Sin, whose dean the devil; the entrance to
+the archdeaconry Evil-street, and its exit Bad-pass.” {137}
+
+From Wenloch, we passed by the little cell of Brumfeld, {138} the noble
+castle of Ludlow, through Leominster to Hereford leaving on our right
+hand the districts of Melenyth and Elvel; thus (describing as it were a
+circle) we came to the same point from which we had commenced this
+laborious journey through Wales.
+
+During this long and laudable legation, about three thousand men were
+signed with the cross; well skilled in the use of arrows and lances, and
+versed in military matters; impatient to attack the enemies of the faith;
+profitably and happily engaged for the service of Christ, if the
+expedition of the Holy Cross had been forwarded with an alacrity equal to
+the diligence and devotion with which the forces were collected.  But by
+the secret, though never unjust, judgment of God, the journey of the
+Roman emperor was delayed, and dissensions arose amongst our kings.  The
+premature and fatal hand of death arrested the king of Sicily, who had
+been the foremost sovereign in supplying the holy land with corn and
+provisions during the period of their distress.  In consequence of his
+death, violent contentions arose amongst our princes respecting their
+several rights to the kingdom; and the faithful beyond sea suffered
+severely by want and famine, surrounded on all sides by enemies, and most
+anxiously waiting for supplies.  But as affliction may strengthen the
+understanding, as gold is tried by fire, and virtue may be confirmed in
+weakness, these things are suffered to happen; since adversity (as
+Gregory testifies) opposed to good prayers is the probation of virtue,
+not the judgment of reproof.  For who does not know how fortunate a
+circumstance it was that Paul went to Italy, and suffered so dreadful a
+shipwreck?  But the ship of his heart remained unbroken amidst the waves
+of the sea.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+A DESCRIPTION OF BALDWIN, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY {139}
+
+
+LET it not be thought superfluous to describe the exterior and inward
+qualities of that person, the particulars of whose embassy, and as it
+were holy peregrination, we have briefly and succinctly related.  He was
+a man of a dark complexion, of an open and venerable countenance, of a
+moderate stature, a good person, and rather inclined to be thin than
+corpulent.  He was a modest and grave man, of so great abstinence and
+continence, that ill report scarcely ever presumed to say any thing
+against him; a man of few words; slow to anger, temperate and moderate in
+all his passions and affections; swift to hear, slow to speak; he was
+from an early age well instructed in literature, and bearing the yoke of
+the Lord from his youth, by the purity of his morals became a
+distinguished luminary to the people; wherefore voluntarily resigning the
+honour of the archlevite, {140} which he had canonically obtained, and
+despising the pomps and vanities of the world, he assumed with holy
+devotion the habit of the Cistercian order; and as he had been formerly
+more than a monk in his manners, within the space of a year he was
+appointed abbot, and in a few years afterwards preferred first to a
+bishopric, and then to an archbishopric; and having been found faithful
+in a little, had authority given him over much.  But, as Cicero says,
+“Nature had made nothing entirely perfect;” when he came into power, not
+laying aside that sweet innate benignity which he had always shewn when a
+private man, sustaining his people with his staff rather than chastising
+them with rods, feeding them as it were with the milk of a mother, and
+not making use of the scourges of the father, he incurred public scandal
+for his remissness.  So great was his lenity that he put an end to all
+pastoral rigour; and was a better monk than abbot, a better bishop than
+archbishop.  Hence pope Urban addressed him; “Urban, servant of the
+servants of God, to the most fervent monk, to the warm abbot, to the
+luke-warm bishop, to the remiss archbishop, health, etc.”
+
+This second successor to the martyr Thomas, having heard of the insults
+offered to our Saviour and his holy cross, was amongst the first who
+signed themselves with the cross, and manfully assumed the office of
+preaching its service both at home and in the most remote parts of the
+kingdom.  Pursuing his journey to the Holy Land, he embarked on board a
+vessel at Marseilles, and landed safely in a port at Tyre, from whence he
+proceeded to Acre, where he found our army both attacking and attacked,
+our forces dispirited by the defection of the princes, and thrown into a
+state of desolation and despair; fatigued by long expectation of
+supplies, greatly afflicted by hunger and want, and distempered by the
+inclemency of the air: finding his end approaching, he embraced his
+fellow subjects, relieving their wants by liberal acts of charity and
+pious exhortations, and by the tenor of his life and actions strengthened
+them in the faith; whose ways, life, and deeds, may he who is alone the
+“way, the truth, and the life,” the way without offence, the truth
+without doubt, and the life without end, direct in truth, together with
+the whole body of the faithful, and for the glory of his name and the
+palm of faith which he hath planted, teach their hands to war, and their
+fingers to fight.
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+{0a}  It is a somewhat curious coincidence that the island of Barry is
+now owned by a descendant of Gerald de Windor’s elder brother—the Earl of
+Plymouth.
+
+{0b}  “Mirror of the Church,” ii. 33.
+
+{0c}  “Social England,” vol. i. p. 342.
+
+{0d}  Published in the first instance in the “Transactions of the
+Cymmrodaian Society,” and subsequently amplified and brought out in book
+form.
+
+{0e}  Introduction to Borrow’s “Wild Wales” in the Everyman Series.
+
+{0f}  Geoffrey, who ended his life as Bishop of St. Asaph, was supposed
+to have found the material for his “History of the British Kings” in a
+Welsh book, containing a history of the Britons, which Waltor Colenius,
+Archdeacon of Oxford, picked up during a journey in Brittany.
+
+{0g}  Walter Map, another Archdeacon of Oxford, was born in
+Glamorganshire, the son of a Norman knight by a Welsh mother.  _Inter
+alia_ he was the author of a Welsh work on agriculture.
+
+{0h}  Green, “Hist. Eng. People,” i. 172.
+
+{0i}  “England under the Angevin Kings,” vol. ii. 457.
+
+{0j}  Project Gutenberg has released “The Description of Wales” as a
+separate eText—David Price.
+
+{11}  Giraldus has committed an error in placing Urban III. at the head
+of the apostolic see; for he died at Ferrara in the month of October,
+A.D. 1187, and was succeeded by Gregory VIII., whose short reign expired
+in the month of December following.  Clement III. was elected pontiff in
+the year 1188.  Frederick I., surnamed Barbarossa, succeeded Conrad III.
+in the empire of Germany, in March, 1152, and was drowned in a river of
+Cilicia whilst bathing, in 1190.  Isaac Angelus succeeded Andronicus I.
+as emperor of Constantinople, in 1185, and was dethroned in 1195.  Philip
+II., surnamed Augustus, from his having been born in the month of August,
+was crowned at Rheims, in 1179, and died at Mantes, in 1223. William II.,
+king of Sicily, surnamed the Good, succeeded in 1166 to his father,
+William the Bad, and died in 1189.  Bela III., king of Hungary, succeeded
+to the throne in 1174, and died in 1196.  Guy de Lusignan was crowned
+king of Jerusalem in 1186, and in the following year his city was taken
+by the victorious Saladin.
+
+{12a}  New Radnor.
+
+{12b}  Rhys ap Gruffydd was grandson to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South
+Wales, who, in 1090, was slain in an engagement with the Normans.  He was
+a prince of great talent, but great versatility of character, and made a
+conspicuous figure in Welsh history.  He died in 1196, and was buried in
+the cathedral of St. David’s; where his effigy, as well as that of his
+son Rhys Gryg, still remain in a good state of preservation.
+
+{12c}  Peter de Leia, prior of the Benedictine monastery of Wenlock, in
+Shropshire, was the successful rival of Giraldus for the bishopric of
+Saint David’s, vacant by the death of David Fitzgerald, the uncle of our
+author; but he did not obtain his promotion without considerable
+opposition from the canons, who submitted to the absolute sequestration
+of their property before they consented to his election, being desirous
+that the nephew should have succeeded his uncle.  He was consecrated in
+1176, and died in 1199.
+
+{12d}  In the Latin of Giraldus, the name of Eineon is represented by
+Æneas, and Eineon Clyd by Æneas Claudius.
+
+{13}  Cruker Castle.  The corresponding distance between Old and New
+Radnor evidently places this castle at Old Radnor, which was anciently
+called Pen-y-craig, Pencraig, or Pen-crûg, from its situation on a rocky
+eminence.  Cruker is a corruption, probably, from Crûg-caerau, the mount,
+or height, of the fortifications.
+
+{14a}  Buelth or Builth, a large market town on the north-west edge of
+the county of Brecon, on the southern banks of the Wye, over which there
+is a long and handsome bridge of stone.  It had formerly a strong castle,
+the site and earthworks of which still remain, but the building is
+destroyed.
+
+{14b}  Llan-Avan, a small church at the foot of barren mountains about
+five or six miles north-west of Buelth.  The saint from whom it takes its
+name, was one of the sons of Cedig ab Cunedda; whose ancestor, Cunedda,
+king of the Britons, was the head of one of the three holy families of
+Britain.  He is said to have lived in the beginning of the sixth century.
+
+{14c} Melenia, Warthrenion, Elevein, Elvenia, Melenyth, and Elvein,
+places mentioned in this first chapter, and varying in their orthography,
+were three different districts in Radnorshire: Melenyth is a hundred in
+the northern part of the county, extending into Montgomeryshire, in which
+is the church of Keri: Elvein retains in modern days the name of Elvel,
+and is a hundred in the southern part of the county, separated from
+Brecknockshire by the Wye; and Warthrenion, in which was the castle built
+by prince Rhys at Rhaiadyr-gwy, seems to have been situated between the
+other two.  Warthrenion may more properly be called Gwyrthrynion, it was
+anciently one of the three comots of Arwystli, a cantref of Merioneth.
+In the year 1174, Melyenith was in the possession of Cadwallon ap Madawc,
+cousin german to prince Rhys; Elvel was held by Eineon Clyd and
+Gwyrthrynion by Eineon ap Rhys, both sons-in-law to that illustrious
+prince.
+
+{15a}  The church of Saint Germanus is now known by the name of Saint
+Harmans, and is situated three or four miles from Rhaiadyr, in
+Radnorshire, on the right-hand of the road from thence to Llanidloes; it
+is a small and simple structure, placed on a little eminence, in a dreary
+plain surrounded by mountains.
+
+{15b}  Several churches in Wales have been dedicated to Saint Curig, who
+came into Wales in the seventh century.
+
+{16a}  Glascum is a small village in a mountainous and retired situation
+between Builth and Kington, in Herefordshire.
+
+{16b}  Bangu.—This was a hand bell kept in all the Welsh churches, which
+the clerk or sexton took to the house of the deceased on the day of the
+funeral: when the procession began, a psalm was sung; the bellman then
+sounded his bell in a solemn manner for some time, till another psalm was
+concluded; and he again sounded it at intervals, till the funeral arrived
+at the church.
+
+{16c}  Rhaiadyr, called also Rhaiader-gwy, is a small village and
+market-town in Radnorshire.  The site only of the castle, built by prince
+Rhys, A.D. 1178, now remains at a short distance from the village; it was
+strongly situated on a natural rock above the river Wye, which, below the
+bridge, forms a cataract.
+
+{16d}  Llywel, a small village about a mile from Trecastle, on the great
+road leading from thence to Llandovery; it was anciently a township, and
+by charter of Philip and Mary was attached to the borough of Brecknock,
+by the name of Trecastle ward.
+
+{17}  Leland, in his description of this part of Wales, mentions a lake
+in Low Elvel, or Elvenia, which may perhaps be the same as that alluded
+to in this passage of Giraldus.  “There is a llinne in Low Elvel within a
+mile of Payne’s castel by the church called Lanpeder.  The llinne is
+caullid Bougklline, and is of no great quantite, but is plentiful of
+pike, and perche, and eles.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 72.
+
+{18a}  Hay.—A pleasant market-town on the southern banks of the river
+Wye, over which there is a bridge.  It still retains some marks of
+baronial antiquity in the old castle, within the present town, the
+gateway of which is tolerably perfect.  A high raised tumulus adjoining
+the church marks the site of the more ancient fortress.  The more modern
+and spacious castle owes its foundation probably to one of those Norman
+lords, who, about the year 1090, conquered this part of Wales.  Little
+notice is taken of this castle in the Welsh chronicles; but we are
+informed that it was destroyed in 1231, by Henry II., and that it was
+refortified by Henry III.
+
+{18b}  Llanddew, a small village, about two miles from Brecknock, on the
+left of the road leading from thence to Hay; its manor belongs to the
+bishops of Saint David’s, who had formerly a castellated mansion there,
+of which some ruins still remain.  The tithes of this parish are
+appropriated to the archdeaconry of Brecknock, and here was the residence
+of our author Giraldus, which he mentions in several of his writings, and
+alludes to with heartfelt satisfaction at the end of the third chapter of
+this Itinerary.
+
+{18c}  Aberhodni, the ancient name of the town and castle of Brecknock,
+derived from its situation at the confluence of the river Hodni with the
+Usk.  The castle and two religious buildings, of which the remains are
+still extant, owed their foundation to Bernard de Newmarch, a Norman
+knight, who, in the year 1090, obtained by conquest the lordship of
+Brecknock.  [The modern Welsh name is Aberhonddu.]
+
+{19a}  Iestyn ap Gwrgant was lord of the province of Morganwg, or
+Glamorgan, and a formidable rival to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South
+Wales; but unable to cope with him in power, he prevailed on Robert
+Fitzhamon, a Norman knight, to come to his assistance.
+
+{19b}  This little river rises near the ruins of Blanllyfni castle,
+between Llangorse pool and the turnpike road leading from Brecknock to
+Abergavenny, and empties itself into the river Usk, near Glasbury.
+
+{19c}  A pretty little village on the southern banks of the Usk, about
+four miles from Hay, on the road leading to Brecknock.
+
+{19d}  The great desolation here alluded to, is attributed by Dr. Powel
+to Howel and Meredyth, sons of Edwyn ap Eineon; not to Howel, son of
+Meredith.  In the year 1021, they conspired against Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt,
+and slew him: Meredith was slain in 1033, and Howel in 1043.
+
+{19e}  William de Breusa, or Braose, was by extraction a Norman, and had
+extensive possessions in England, as well as Normandy: he was succeeded
+by his son Philip, who, in the reign of William Rufus, favoured the cause
+of king Henry against Robert Curthose, duke of Normandy; and being
+afterwards rebellious to his sovereign, was disinherited of his lands.
+By his marriage with Berta, daughter of Milo, earl of Hereford, he gained
+a rich inheritance in Brecknock, Overwent, and Gower.  He left issue two
+sons: William and Philip: William married Maude de Saint Wallery, and
+succeeded to the great estate of his father and mother, which he kept in
+peaceable possession during the reigns of king Henry II. and king Richard
+I.  In order to avoid the persecutions of king John, he retired with his
+family to Ireland; and from thence returned into Wales; on hearing of the
+king’s arrival in Ireland, his wife Maude fled with her sons into
+Scotland, where she was taken prisoner, and in the year 1210 committed,
+with William, her son and heir, to Corf castle, and there miserably
+starved to death, by order of king John; her husband, William de Braose,
+escaped into France, disguised, and dying there, was buried in the abbey
+church of Saint Victor, at Paris.  The family of Saint Walery, or Valery,
+derived their name from a sea-port in France.
+
+{21} A small church dedicated to Saint David, in the suburbs of
+Brecknock, on the great road leading from thence to Trecastle.  “The
+paroche of Llanvays, Llan-chirch-Vais extra, ac si diceres, extra muros.
+It standeth betwixt the river of Uske and Tyrtorelle brooke, that is,
+about the lower ende of the town of Brekenok.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v.
+p. 69.
+
+{22a}  David Fitzgerald was promoted to the see of Saint David’s in 1147,
+or according to others, in 1149.  He died A.D. 1176.
+
+{22b}  Now Howden, in the East Riding of Yorkshire.
+
+{22c}  Osred was king of the Northumbrians, and son of Alfred.  He
+commenced to reign in A.D. 791, but was deprived of his crown the
+following year.
+
+{23a}  St. Kenelm was the only son and heir of Kenulfus, king of the
+Mercians, who left him under the care of his two sisters, Quendreda and
+Bragenilda.  The former, blinded by ambition, resolved to destroy the
+innocent child, who stood between her and the throne; and for that
+purpose prevailed on Ascebert, who attended constantly on the king, to
+murder him privately, giving him hopes, in case he complied with her
+wishes, of making him her partner in the kingdom.  Under the pretence of
+diverting his young master, this wicked servant led him into a retired
+vale at Clent, in Staffordshire, and having murdered him, dug a pit, and
+cast his body into it, which was discovered by a miracle, and carried in
+solemn procession to the abbey of Winchelcomb.  In the parish of Clent is
+a small chapel dedicated to this saint.
+
+{23b}  Winchelcumbe, or Winchcomb, in the lower part of the hundred of
+Kiftsgate, in Gloucestershire, a few miles to the north of Cheltenham.
+
+{24}  St. Kynauc, who flourished about the year 492, was the reputed son
+of Brychan, lord of Brecknock, by Benadulved, daughter of Benadyl, a
+prince of Powis, whom he seduced during the time of his detention as an
+hostage at the court of her father.  He is said to have been murdered
+upon the mountain called the Van, and buried in the church of Merthyr
+Cynawg, or Cynawg the Martyr, near Brecknock, which is dedicated to his
+memory.
+
+{25a}  In Welsh, Illtyd, which has been latinised into Iltutus, as in the
+instance of St. Iltutus, the celebrated disciple of Germanus, and the
+master of the learned Gildas, who founded a college for the instruction
+of youth at Llantwit, on the coast of Glamorganshire; but I do not
+conceive this to be the same person.  The name of Ty-Illtyd, or St.
+Illtyd’s house, is still known as Llanamllech, but it is applied to one
+of those monuments of Druidical antiquity called a cistvaen, erected upon
+an eminence named Maenest, at a short distance from the village.  A rude,
+upright stone stood formerly on one side of it, and was called by the
+country people Maen Illtyd, or Illtyd’s stone, but was removed about a
+century ago.  A well, the stream of which divides this parish from the
+neighbouring one of Llansaintfraid, is called Ffynnon Illtyd, or Illtyd’s
+well.  This was evidently the site of the hermitage mentioned by
+Giraldus.
+
+{25b}  Lhanhamelach, or Llanamllech, is a small village, three miles from
+Brecknock, on the road to Abergavenny.
+
+{26a}  The name of Newmarche appears in the chartulary of Battel abbey,
+as a witness to one of the charters granted by William the Conqueror to
+the monks of Battel in Sussex, upon his foundation of their house.  He
+obtained the territory of Brecknock by conquest, from Bleddyn ap
+Maenarch, the Welsh regulus thereof, about the year 1092, soon after his
+countryman, Robert Fitzhamon, had reduced the county of Glamorgan.  He
+built the present town of Brecknock, where he also founded a priory of
+Benedictine monks.  According to Leland, he was buried in the cloister of
+the cathedral church at Gloucester, though the mutilated remains of an
+effigy and monument are still ascribed to him in the priory church at
+Brecknock.
+
+{26b}  Brecheinoc, now Brecknockshire, had three cantreds or hundreds,
+and eight comots.—1. Cantref Selef with the comots of Selef and
+Trahayern.—2. Cantref Canol, or the middle hundred, with the comots
+Talgarth, Ystradwy, and Brwynlys, or Eglyws Yail.—3. Cantref Mawr, or the
+great hundred, with the comots of Tir Raulff Llywel, and Cerrig
+Howel.—Powel’s description of Wales, p. 20.
+
+{27}  Milo was son to Walter, constable of England in the reign of Henry
+I., and Emme his wife, one of the daughters of Dru de Baladun, sister to
+Hameline de Baladun, a person of great note, who came into England with
+William the Conqueror, and, being the first lord of Overwent in the
+county of Monmouth, built the castle of Abergavenny.  He was wounded by
+an arrow while hunting, on Christmas eve, in 1144, and was buried in the
+chapter-house of Lanthoni, near Gloucester.
+
+{28a}  Walter de Clifford.  The first of this ancient family was called
+Ponce; he had issue three sons, Walter, Drogo or Dru, and Richard.  The
+Conqueror’s survey takes notice of the two former, but from Richard the
+genealogical line is preserved, who, being called Richard de Pwns,
+obtained, as a gift from king Henry I., the cantref Bychan, or little
+hundred, and the castle of Llandovery, in Wales; he left three sons,
+Simon, Walter, and Richard.  The Walter de Clifford here mentioned was
+father to the celebrated Fair Rosamond, the favourite of king Henry II.;
+and was succeeded by his eldest son, Walter, who married Margaret,
+daughter to Llewelyn, prince of Wales, and widow of John de Braose.
+
+{28b}  Brendlais, or Brynllys, is a small village on the road between
+Brecknock and Hay, where a stately round tower marks the site of the
+ancient castle of the Cliffords, in which the tyrant Mahel lost his life.
+
+{29a}  St. Almedha, though not included in the ordinary lists, is said to
+have been a daughter of Brychan, and sister to St. Canoc, and to have
+borne the name of Elevetha, Aled, or Elyned, latinised into Almedha.  The
+Welsh genealogists say, that she suffered martyrdom on a hill near
+Brecknock, where a chapel was erected to her memory; and William of
+Worcester says she was buried at Usk.  Mr. Hugh Thomas (who wrote an
+essay towards the history of Brecknockshire in the year 1698) speaks of
+the chapel as standing, though unroofed and useless, in his time; the
+people thereabouts call it St. Tayled.  It was situated on an eminence,
+about a mile to the eastward of Brecknock, and about half a mile from a
+farm-house, formerly the mansion and residence of the Aubreys, lords of
+the manor of Slwch, which lordship was bestowed upon Sir Reginald Awbrey
+by Bernard Newmarche, in the reign of William Rufus.  Some small vestiges
+of this building may still be traced, and an aged yew tree, with a well
+at its foot, marks the site near which the chapel formerly stood.
+
+{29b}  This same habit is still (in Sir Richard Colt Hoare’s time) used
+by the Welsh ploughboys; they have a sort of chaunt, consisting of half
+or even quarter notes, which is sung to the oxen at plough: the
+countrymen vulgarly supposing that the beasts are consoled to work more
+regularly and patiently by such a lullaby.
+
+{30a}  The umber, or grayling, is still a plentiful and favourite fish in
+the rivers on the Welsh border.
+
+{30b}  About the year 1113, “there was a talke through South Wales, of
+Gruffyth, the sonne of Rees ap Theodor, who, for feare of the king, had
+beene of a child brought up in Ireland, and had come over two yeares
+passed, which time he had spent privilie with his freends, kinsfolks, and
+affines; as with Gerald, steward of Penbrooke, his brother-in-law, and
+others.  But at the last he was accused to the king, that he intended the
+kingdome of South Wales as his father had enjoied it, which was now in
+the king’s hands; and that all the countrie hoped of libertie through
+him; therefore the king sent to take him.  But Gryffyth ap Rees hering
+this, sent to Gruffyth ap Conan, prince of North Wales, desiring him of
+his aid, and that he might remaine safelie within his countrie; which he
+granted, and received him joiouslie for his father’s sake.”  He
+afterwards proved so troublesome and successful an antagonist, that the
+king endeavoured by every possible means to get him into his power.  To
+Gruffyth ap Conan he offered “mountaines of gold to send the said
+Gruffyth or his head to him.”  And at a subsequent period, he sent for
+Owen ap-Cadogan said to him, “Owen, I have found thee true and faithful
+unto me, therefore I desire thee to take or kill that murtherer, that
+doth so trouble my loving subjects.”  But Gruffyth escaped all the snares
+which the king had laid for him, and in the year 1137 died a natural and
+honourable death; he is styled in the Welsh chronicle, “the light, honor,
+and staie of South Wales;” and distinguished as the bravest, the wisest,
+the most merciful, liberal, and just, of all the princes of Wales.  By
+his wife Gwenllian, the daughter of Gruffyth ap Conan, he left a son,
+commonly called the lord Rhys, who met the archbishop at Radnor, as is
+related in the first chapter of this Itinerary.
+
+{31}  This cantref, which now bears the name of Caeo, is placed,
+according to the ancient divisions of Wales, in the cantref Bychan, or
+little hundred, and not in the Cantref Mawr, or great hundred.  A village
+between Lampeter in Cardiganshire and Llandovery in Caermarthenshire,
+still bears the name of Cynwil Caeo, and, from its picturesque situation
+and the remains of its mines, which were probably worked by the Romans,
+deserves the notice of the curious traveller.
+
+{32}  The lake of Brecheinoc bears the several names of Llyn Savaddan,
+Brecinau-mere, Llangorse, and Talyllyn Pool, the two latter of which are
+derived from the names of parishes on its banks.  It is a large, though
+by no means a beautiful, piece of water, its banks being low and flat,
+and covered with rushes and other aquatic plants to a considerable
+distance from the shore.  Pike, perch, and eels are the common fish of
+this water; tench and trout are rarely, I believe, (if ever), taken in
+it.  The notion of its having swallowed up an ancient city is not yet
+quite exploded by the natives; and some will even attribute the name of
+Loventium to it; which is with much greater certainty fixed at
+Llanio-isau, between Lampeter and Tregaron, in Cardiganshire, on the
+northern banks of the river Teivi, where there are very considerable and
+undoubted remains of a large Roman city.  The legend of the town at the
+bottom of the lake is at the same time very old.
+
+{33a}  That chain of mountains which divides Brecknockshire from
+Caermarthenshire, over which the turnpike road formerly passed from
+Trecastle to Llandovery, and from which the river Usk derives its source.
+
+{33b}  This mountain is now called, by way of eminence, the Van, or the
+height, but more commonly, by country people, Bannau Brycheinog, or the
+Brecknock heights, alluding to its two peaks.  Our author, Giraldus,
+seems to have taken his account of the spring, on the summit of this
+mountain, from report, rather than from ocular testimony.  I (Sir R. Colt
+Hoare) examined the summits of each peak very attentively, and could
+discern no spring whatever.  The soil is peaty and very boggy.  On the
+declivity of the southern side of the mountain, and at no considerable
+distance from the summit, is a spring of very fine water, which my guide
+assured me never failed.  On the north-west side of the mountain is a
+round pool, in which possibly trout may have been sometimes found, but,
+from the muddy nature of its waters, I do not think it very probable;
+from this pool issues a small brook, which falls precipitously down the
+sides of the mountain, and pursuing its course through a narrow and
+well-wooded valley, forms a pretty cascade near a rustic bridge which
+traverses it.  I am rather inclined think, that Giraldus confounded in
+his account the spring and the pool together.
+
+{34a}  The first of these are now styled the Black Mountains, of which
+the Gadair Fawr is the principal, and is only secondary to the Van in
+height.  The Black Mountains are an extensive range of hills rising to
+the east of Talgarth, in the several parishes of Talgarth, Llaneliew, and
+Llanigorn, in the county of Brecknock, and connected with the heights of
+Ewyas.  The most elevated point is called Y Gadair, and, excepting the
+Brecknock Van (the Cadair Arthur of Giraldus), is esteemed the highest
+mountain in South Wales.  The mountains of Ewyas are those now called the
+Hatterel Hills, rising above the monastery of Llanthoni, and joining the
+Black Mountains of Talgarth at Capel y Ffin, or the chapel upon the
+boundary, near which the counties of Hereford, Brecknock, and Monmouth
+form a point of union.  But English writers have generally confounded all
+distinction, calling them indiscriminately the Black Mountains, or the
+Hatterel Hills.
+
+{34b}  If we consider the circumstances of this chapter, it will appear
+very evidently, that the vale of Ewyas made no part of the actual
+Itinerary.
+
+{35}  Landewi Nant Hodeni, or the church of St. David on the Hodni, is
+now better known by the name of Llanthoni abbey.  A small and rustic
+chapel, dedicated to St. David, at first occupied the site of this abbey;
+in the year 1103, William de Laci, a Norman knight, having renounced the
+pleasures of the world, retired to this sequestered spot, where he was
+joined in his austere profession by Ernicius, chaplain to queen Maude.
+In the year 1108, these hermits erected a mean church in the place of
+their hermitage, which was consecrated by Urban, bishop of Llandaff, and
+Rameline, bishop of Hereford, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist:
+having afterward received very considerable benefactions from Hugh de
+Laci, and gained the consent of Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, these
+same hermits founded a magnificent monastery for Black canons, of the
+order of St. Augustine, which they immediately filled with forty monks
+collected from the monasteries of the Holy Trinity in London, Merton in
+Surrey, and Colchester in Essex.  They afterwards removed to Gloucester,
+where they built a church and spacious monastery, which, after the name
+of their former residence, they called Llanthoni; it was consecrated A.D.
+1136, by Simon, bishop of Worcester, and Robert Betun bishop of Hereford,
+and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
+
+{36a}  The titles of mother and daughter are here applied to the mother
+church in Wales, and the daughter near Gloucester.
+
+{36b}  William of Wycumb, the fourth prior of Llanthoni, succeeded to
+Robert de Braci, who was obliged to quit the monastery, on account of the
+hostile molestation it received from the Welsh.  To him succeeded
+Clement, the sub-prior, and to Clement, Roger de Norwich.
+
+{38}  Walter de Laci came into England with William the Conqueror, and
+left three sons, Roger, Hugh, and Walter.  Hugh de Laci was the lord of
+Ewyas, and became afterwards the founder of the convent of Llanthoni; his
+elder brother, Robert, held also four caracutes of land within the limits
+of the castle of Ewyas, which king William had bestowed on Walter, his
+father; but joining in rebellion against William Rufus, he was banished
+the kingdom, and all his lands were given to his brother Hugh, who died
+without issue.
+
+{41}  This anecdote is thus related by the historian Hollinshed: “Hereof
+it came on a time, whiles the king sojourned in France about his warres,
+which he held against king Philip, there came unto him a French priest,
+whose name was Fulco, who required the king in anywise to put from him
+three abominable daughters which he had, and to bestow them in marriage,
+least God punished him for them.  ‘Thou liest, hypocrite (said the king),
+to thy verie face; for all the world knoweth I have not one daughter.’
+‘I lie not (said the priest), for thou hast three daughters: one of them
+is called Pride, the second Covetousness, and the third Lecherie.’  With
+that the king called to him his lords and barons, and said to them, ‘This
+hypocrite heere hath required me to marry awaie my three daughters, which
+(as he saith) I cherish, nourish, foster, and mainteine; that is to say,
+Pride, Covetousness, and Lecherie: and now that I have found out
+necessarie and fit husbands for them, I will do it with effect, and seeks
+no more delaies.  I therefore bequeath my pride to the high-minded
+Templars and Hospitallers, which are as proud as Lucifer himselfe; my
+covetousness I give unto the White Monks, otherwise called of the
+Cisteaux order, for they covet the divell and all; my lecherie I commit
+to the prelats of the church, who have most pleasure and felicitie
+therein.’”
+
+{44a}  This small residence of the archdeacon was at Landeu, a place
+which has been described before: the author takes this opportunity of
+hinting at his love of literature, religion, and mediocrity.
+
+{44b}  The last chapter having been wholly digressive, we must now recur
+back to Brecknock, or rather, perhaps, to our author’s residence at
+Landeu, where we left him, and from thence accompany him to Abergavenny.
+It appears that from Landeu he took the road to Talgarth, a small village
+a little to the south east of the road leading from Brecknock to Hay;
+from whence, climbing up a steep ascent, now called Rhiw Cwnstabl, or the
+Constable’s ascent, he crossed the black mountains of Llaneliew to the
+source of the Gronwy-fawr river, which rises in that eminence, and
+pursues its rapid course into the Vale of Usk.  From thence a rugged and
+uneven track descends suddenly into a narrow glen, formed by the torrent
+of the Gronwy, between steep, impending mountains; bleak and barren for
+the first four or five miles, but afterwards wooded to the very margin of
+the stream.  A high ledge of grassy hills on the left hand, of which the
+principal is called the Bal, or Y Fal, divides this formidable pass (the
+“Malus passus” of Giraldus) from the vale of Ewyas, in which stands the
+noble monastery of Llanthoni, “montibus suis inclusum,” encircled by its
+mountains.  The road at length emerging from this deep recess of Coed
+Grono, or Cwm Gronwy, the vale of the river Gronwy, crosses the river at
+a place called Pont Escob, or the Bishop’s bridge, probably so called
+from this very circumstance of its having been now passed by the
+archbishop and his suite, and is continued through the forest of Moel,
+till it joins the Hereford road, about two miles from Abergavenny.  This
+formidable defile is at least nine miles in length.
+
+{45}  In the vale of the Gronwy, about a mile above Pont Escob, there is
+a wood called Coed Dial, or the Wood of Revenge.  Here again, by the
+modern name of the place, we are enabled to fix the very spot on which
+Richard de Clare was murdered.  The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that “in
+1135, Morgan ap Owen, a man of considerable quality and estate in Wales,
+remembering the wrong and injury he had received at the hands of Richard
+Fitz-Gilbert, slew him, together with his son Gilbert.”  The first of
+this great family, Richard de Clare, was the eldest son of Gislebert,
+surnamed Crispin, earl of Brion, in Normandy.  This Richard Fitz-Gilbert
+came into England with William the Conqueror, and received from him great
+advancement in honour and possessions.  On the death of the Conqueror,
+favouring the cause of Robert Curthose, he rebelled against William
+Rufus, but when that king appeared in arms before his castle at
+Tunbridge, he submitted; after which, adhering to Rufus against Robert,
+in 1091, he was taken prisoner, and shortly after the death of king Henry
+I., was assassinated, on his journey through Wales, in the manner already
+related.
+
+{46}  Hamelin, son of Dru de Baladun, who came into England with William
+the Conqueror, was the first lord of Over-Went, and built a castle at
+Abergavenny, on the same spot where, according to ancient tradition, a
+giant called Agros had erected a fortress.  He died in the reign of
+William Rufus, and was buried in the priory which he had founded at
+Abergavenny; having no issue, he gave the aforesaid castle and lands to
+Brian de Insula, or Brian de Wallingford, his nephew, by his sister
+Lucia.  The enormous excesses mentioned by Giraldus, as having been
+perpetrated in this part of Wales during his time, seem to allude to a
+transaction that took place in the castle of Abergavenny, in the year
+1176, which is thus related by two historians, Matthew Paris and
+Hollinshed.  “A.D. 1176, The same yeare, William de Breause having got a
+great number of Welshmen into the castle of Abergavennie, under a
+colourable pretext of communication, proposed this ordinance to be
+received of them with a corporall oth, ‘That no traveller by the waie
+amongst them should beare any bow, or other unlawful weapon,’ which oth,
+when they refused to take, because they would not stand to that
+ordinance, he condemned them all to death.  This deceit he used towards
+them, in revenge of the death of his uncle Henrie of Hereford, whom upon
+Easter-even before they had through treason murthered, and were now
+acquited was the like againe.”—Hollinshed, tom. ii. p. 95.
+
+{48}  Landinegat, or the church of St. Dingad, is now better known by the
+name of Dingatstow, or Dynastow, a village near Monmouth.
+
+{49a}  [For the end of William de Braose, see footnote 34.]
+
+{49b}  Leland divides this district into Low, Middle, and High Venteland,
+extending from Chepstow to Newport on one side, and to Abergavenny on the
+other; the latter of which, he says, “maketh the cumpace of Hye
+Venteland.”  He adds, “The soyle of al Venteland is of a darke reddische
+yerth ful of slaty stones, and other greater of the same color.  The
+countrey is also sumwhat montayneus, and welle replenishid with woodes,
+also very fertyle of corne, but men there study more to pastures, the
+which be well inclosed.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 6.  Ancient
+Gwentland is now comprised within the county of Monmouth.
+
+{50a}  William de Salso Marisco, who succeeded to the bishopric of
+Llandaff, A.D. 1185, and presided over that see during the time of
+Baldwin’s visitation, in 1188.
+
+{50b}  Alexander was the fourth archdeacon of the see of Bangor.
+
+{50c}  Once at Usk, then at Caerleon, and afterwards on entering the town
+of Newport.
+
+{51}  Gouldcliffe, or Goldcliff, is situated a few miles S.E. of Newport,
+on the banks of the Severn.  In the year 1113, Robert de Candos founded
+and endowed the church of Goldclive, and, by the advice of king Henry I.,
+gave it to the abbey of Bec, in Normandy; its religious establishment
+consisted of a prior and twelve monks of the order of St. Benedict.
+
+{53}  [Geoffrey of Monmouth.]
+
+{54}  The Cistercian abbey here alluded to was known by the several names
+of Ystrat Marchel, Strata Marcella, Alba domus de Stratmargel, Vallis
+Crucis, or Pola, and was situated between Guilsfield and Welshpool, in
+Montgomeryshire.  Authors differ in opinion about its original founder.
+Leland attributes it to Owen Cyveilioc, prince of Powys, and Dugdale to
+Madoc, the son of Gruffydh, giving for his authority the original grants
+and endowments of this abbey.  According to Tanner, about the beginning
+of the reign of king Edward III., the Welsh monks were removed from hence
+into English abbeys, and English monks were placed here, and the abbey
+was made subject to the visitation of the abbot and convent of Buildwas,
+in Shropshire.
+
+{56a}  Cardiff, _i.e._, the fortress on the river Taf.
+
+{56b}  Gwentluc—so called from Gwent, the name of the province, and llug,
+open, to distinguish it from the upper parts of Wentland, is an extensive
+tract of flat, marshy ground, reaching from Newport to the shores of the
+river Severn.
+
+{56c}  Nant Pencarn, or the brook of Pencarn.—After a very attentive
+examination of the country round Newport, by natives of that place, and
+from the information I have received on the subject, I am inclined to
+think that the river here alluded to was the Ebwy, which flows about a
+mile and a half south of Newport.  Before the new turnpike road and
+bridge were made across Tredegar Park, the old road led to a ford lower
+down the river, and may still be travelled as far as Cardiff; and was
+probably the ford mentioned in the text, as three old farm-houses in its
+neighbourhood still retain the names of Great Pencarn, Little Pencarn,
+and Middle Pencarn.
+
+{57}  Robert Fitz-Hamon, earl of Astremeville, in Normandy, came into
+England with William the Conqueror; and, by the gift of William Rufus,
+obtained the honour of Gloucester.  He was wounded with a spear at the
+siege of Falaise, in Normandy, died soon afterwards, and was buried, A.D.
+1102, in the abbey of Tewkesbury, which he had founded.  Leaving no male
+issue, king Henry gave his eldest daughter, Mabel, or Maude, who, in her
+own right, had the whole honour of Gloucester, to his illegitimate son
+Robert, who was advanced to the earldom of Gloucester by the king, his
+father.  He died A.D. 1147, and left four sons: William, the personage
+here mentioned by Giraldus, who succeeded him in his titles and honours;
+Roger, bishop of Worcester, who died at Tours in France, A.D. 1179;
+Hamon, who died at the siege of Toulouse, A.D. 1159; and Philip.
+
+{58a}  The Coychurch Manuscript quoted by Mr. Williams, in his History of
+Monmouthshire, asserts that Morgan, surnamed Mwyn-fawr, or the Gentle,
+the son of Athrwy, not having been elected to the chief command of the
+British armies, upon his father’s death retired from Caerleon, and took
+up his residence in Glamorganshire, sometimes at Radyr, near Cardiff, and
+at other times at Margam; and from this event the district derived its
+name, quasi Gwlad-Morgan, the country of Morgan.
+
+{58b}  St. Piranus, otherwise called St. Kiaran, or Piran, was an Irish
+saint, said to have been born in the county of Ossory, or of Cork, about
+the middle of the fourth century; and after that by his labours the
+Gospel had made good progress, he forsook all worldly things, and spent
+the remainder of his life in religious solitude.  The place of his
+retirement was on the sea-coast of Cornwall, and not far from Padstow,
+where, as Camden informs us, there was a chapel on the sands erected to
+his memory.  Leland has informed us, that the chapel of St. Perine, at
+Caerdiff, stood in Shoemaker Street.
+
+{59}  So called from a parish of that name in Glamorganshire, situated
+between Monk Nash and St. Donat’s, upon the Bristol Channel.
+
+{60}  Barri Island is situated on the coast of Glamorganshire; and,
+according to Cressy, took its name from St. Baruc, the hermit, who
+resided, and was buried there.  The Barrys in Ireland, as well as the
+family of Giraldus, who were lords of it, are said to have derived their
+names from this island.  Leland, in speaking of this island, says, “The
+passage into Barrey isle at ful se is a flite shot over, as much as the
+Tamise is above the bridge.  At low water, there is a broken causey to go
+over, or els over the shalow streamelet of Barrey-brook on the sands.
+The isle is about a mile in cumpace, and hath very good corne, grasse,
+and sum wood; the ferme of it worth a £10 a yere.  There ys no dwelling
+in the isle, but there is in the middle of it a fair little chapel of St.
+Barrok, where much pilgrimage was usid.”  [The “fair little chapel” has
+disappeared, and “Barry Island” is now, since the construction of the
+great dock, connected with the mainland, it is covered with houses, and
+its estimated capital value is now £250,000].
+
+{61a}  William de Salso Marisco.
+
+{61b}  The see of Llandaff is said to have been founded by the British
+king Lucius as early as the year 180.
+
+{61c}  From Llandaff, our crusaders proceeded towards the Cistercian
+monastery of Margam, passing on their journey near the little cell of
+Benedictines at Ewenith, or Ewenny.  This religious house was founded by
+Maurice de Londres towards the middle of the twelfth century.  It is
+situated in a marshy plain near the banks of the little river Ewenny.
+
+{62}  The Cistercian monastery of Margam, justly celebrated for the
+extensive charities which its members exercised, was founded A.D. 1147,
+by Robert earl of Gloucester, who died in the same year.  Of this
+once-famed sanctuary nothing now remains but the shell of its
+chapter-house, which, by neglect, has lost its most ornamental parts.
+When Mr. Wyndham made the tour of Wales in the year 1777, this elegant
+building was entire, and was accurately drawn and engraved by his orders.
+
+{65}  In continuing their journey from Neath to Swansea, our travellers
+directed their course by the sea-coast to the river Avon, which they
+forded, and, continuing their road along the sands, were probably ferried
+over the river Neath, at a place now known by the name of Breton Ferry,
+leaving the monastery of Neath at some distance to the right: from thence
+traversing another tract of sands, and crossing the river Tawe, they
+arrived at the castle of Swansea, where they passed the night.
+
+{66}  The monastery of Neath was situated on the banks of a river bearing
+the same name, about a mile to the westward of the town and castle.  It
+was founded in 1112, by Richard de Grainville, or Greenefeld, and
+Constance, his wife, for the safety of the souls of Robert, earl of
+Gloucester, Maude, his wife, and William, his son.  Richard de Grainville
+was one of the twelve Norman knights who accompanied Robert Fitz-Hamon,
+and assisted him in the conquest of Glamorganshire.  In the time of
+Leland this abbey was in a high state of preservation, for he says, “Neth
+abbay of white monkes, a mile above Neth town, standing in the ripe of
+Neth, semid to me the fairest abbay of al Wales.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom.
+v. p. 14.  The remains of the abbey and of the adjoining priory-house are
+considerable; but this ancient retirement of the grey and white monks is
+now occupied by the inhabitants of the neighbouring copper-works.
+
+{67a}  Gower, the western district of Glamorganshire, appears to have
+been first conquered by Henry de Newburg, earl of Warwick, soon after
+Robert, duke of Gloucester, had made the conquest of the other part of
+Glamorganshire.
+
+{67b}  Sweynsei, Swansea, or Abertawe, situated at the confluence of the
+river Tawe with the Severn sea, is a town of considerable commerce, and
+much frequented during the summer months as a bathing-place.  The old
+castle, now made use of as a prison, is so surrounded by houses in the
+middle of the town, that a stranger might visit Swansea without knowing
+that such a building existed.  The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that it
+was built by Henry de Beaumont, earl of Warwick, and that in the year
+1113 it was attacked by Gruffydd ap Rhys, but without success.  This
+castle became afterwards a part of the possessions of the see of St.
+David’s, and was rebuilt by bishop Gower.  [The old castle is no longer
+used as a prison, but as the office of the “Cambria Daily Leader.”  It is
+significant that Swansea is still known to Welshmen, as in the days of
+Giraldus, as “Abertawe.”]
+
+{71a}  Lochor, or Llwchwr, was the Leucarum mentioned in the Itineraries,
+and the fifth Roman station on the Via Julia.  This small village is
+situated on a tide-river bearing the same name, which divides the
+counties of Glamorgan and Caermarthen, and over which there is a ferry.
+“Lochor river partith Kidwelli from West Gowerlande.”—_Leland_, _Itin._
+tom. v. p. 23.  [The ferry is no more.  The river is crossed by a fine
+railway bridge.]
+
+{71b}  Wendraeth, or Gwen-draeth, from gwen, white, and traeth, the sandy
+beach of the sea.  There are two rivers of this name, Gwendraeth fawr,
+and Gwendraeth fychan, the great and the little Gwendraeth, of which
+Leland thus speaks: “Vendraeth Vawr and Vendraith Vehan risith both in
+Eskenning commote: the lesse an eight milys of from Kydwelli, the other
+about a ten, and hath but a little nesche of sand betwixt the places wher
+thei go into the se, about a mile beneth the towne of Kidwely.”
+
+{71c}  Cydweli was probably so called from cyd, a junction, and wyl, a
+flow, or gushing out, being situated near the junction of the rivers
+Gwendraeth fawr and fychan; but Leland gives its name a very singular
+derivation, and worthy of our credulous and superstitious author
+Giraldus.  “Kidwely, otherwise Cathweli, i.e. Catti lectus, quia Cattus
+olim solebat ibi lectum in quercu facere:—There is a little towne now but
+newly made betwene Vendraith Vawr and Vendraith Vehan.  Vendraith Vawr is
+half a mile of.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 22.
+
+{72}  The scene of the battle fought between Gwenllian and Maurice de
+Londres is to this day called Maes Gwenllian, the plain or field of
+Gwenllian; and there is a tower in the castle of Cydweli still called Tyr
+Gwenllian.  [Maes Gwenllian is now a small farm, one of whose fields is
+said to have been the scene of the battle.]
+
+{73a}  The castle of Talachar is now better known by the name of
+Llaugharne.
+
+{73b}  Much has been said and written by ancient authors respecting the
+derivation of the name of this city, which is generally allowed to be the
+Muridunum, or Maridunum, mentioned in the Roman itineraries.  Some derive
+it from Caer and Merddyn, that is, the city of the prophet Merddyn; and
+others from Mûr and Murddyn, which in the British language signify a
+wall.  There can, however, be little doubt that it is derived simply from
+the Roman name Muridunum.  The county gaol occupies the site of the old
+castle, a few fragments of which are seen intermixed with the houses of
+the town.
+
+{73c}  Dinevor, the great castle, from dinas, a castle, and vawr, great,
+was in ancient times a royal residence of the princes of South Wales.  In
+the year 876, Roderic the Great, having divided the principalities of
+North and South Wales, and Powys land, amongst his three sons, built for
+each of them a palace.  The sovereignty of South Wales, with the castle
+of Dinevor, fell to the lot of Cadell.  [The ruins of Dinevor Castle
+still crown the summit of the hill which overshadows the town of
+Llandilo, 12 miles from Carmarthen.]
+
+{74a}  There is a spring very near the north side of Dinevor park wall,
+which bears the name of Nant-y-rhibo, or the bewitched brook, which may,
+perhaps, be the one here alluded to by Giraldus.
+
+{74b}  Pencadair is a small village situated to the north of Carmarthen.
+
+{75a}  Alba Domus was called in Welsh Ty Gwyn ar Daf, or the White House
+on the river Taf.  In the history of the primitive British church, Ty
+Gwyn, or white house, is used in a sense equivalent to a charter-house.
+The White House College, or Bangor y Ty Gwyn, is pretended to have been
+founded about 480, by Paul Hên, or Paulius, a saint of the congregation
+of Illtyd.  From this origin, the celebrated Cistercian monastery is said
+to have derived its establishment.  Powel, in his chronicle, says, “For
+the first abbey or frier house that we read of in Wales, sith the
+destruction of the noble house of Bangor, which savoured not of Romish
+dregges, was the Tuy Gwyn, built the yeare 1146, and after they swarmed
+like bees through all the countrie.”  (Powel, p. 254.)—Authors differ
+with respect to the founder of this abbey; some have attributed it to
+Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales; and others to Bernard, bishop of
+Saint David’s, who died about the year 1148.  The latter account is
+corroborated by the following passage in Wharton’s Anglia Sacra: “Anno
+1143 ducti sunt monachi ordinis Cisterciensis qui modo sunt apud Albam
+Landam, in West Walliam, per Bernardum episcopum.”  Leland, in his
+Collectanea, says, “Whitland, abbat.  Cistert., Rhesus filius Theodori
+princeps Suth Walliæ primus fundator;” and in his Itinerary, mentions it
+as a convent of Bernardynes, “which yet stondeth.”
+
+{75b}  Saint Clears is a long, straggling village, at the junction of the
+river Cathgenny with the Tâf.  Immediately on the banks of the former,
+and not far from its junction with the latter, stood the castle, of which
+not one stone is left; but the artificial tumulus on which the citadel
+was placed, and other broken ground, mark its ancient site.
+
+{76a}  Lanwadein, now called Lawhaden, is a small village about four
+miles from Narberth, on the banks of the river Cleddeu.
+
+{76b}  Daugleddeu, so called from Dau, two, and Cled, or Cleddau, a
+sword.  The rivers Cledheu have their source in the Prescelly mountain,
+unite their streams below Haverfordwest, and run into Milford Haven,
+which in Welsh is called Aberdaugleddau, or the confluence of the two
+rivers Cledheu.
+
+{76c}  Haverford, now called Haverfordwest, is a considerable town on the
+river Cledheu, with an ancient castle, three churches, and some monastic
+remains.  The old castle (now used as the county gaol), from its size and
+commanding situation, adds greatly to the picturesque appearance of this
+town.  [The old castle is no longer used as a gaol.]
+
+{79a}  The province of Rhos, in which the town of Haverfordwest is
+situated, was peopled by a colony of Flemings during the reign of king
+Henry I.
+
+{79b}  St. Caradoc was born of a good family in Brecknockshire, and after
+a liberal education at home, attached himself to the court of Rhys Prince
+of South Wales, whom he served a long time with diligence and fidelity.
+He was much esteemed and beloved by him, till having unfortunately lost
+two favourite greyhounds, which had been committed to his care, that
+prince, in a fury, threatened his life; upon which Caradoc determined to
+change masters, and made a vow on the spot to consecrate the remainder of
+his days to God, by a single and religious life.  He went to Llandaff,
+received from its bishop the clerical tonsure and habit, and retired to
+the deserted church of St. Kined, and afterwards to a still more solitary
+abode in the Isle of Ary, from whence he was taken prisoner by some
+Norwegian pirates, but soon released.  His last place of residence was at
+St. Ismael, in the province of Rhos, where he died in 1124, and was
+buried with great honour in the cathedral of St. David’s.  We must not
+confound this retreat of Caradoc with the village of St. Ismael on the
+borders of Milford Haven.  His hermitage was situated in the parish of
+Haroldstone, near the town of Haverfordwest, whose church has St. Ismael
+for its patron, and probably near a place called Poorfield, the common on
+which Haverfordwest races are held, as there is a well there called
+Caradoc’s Well, round which, till within these few years, there was a
+sort of vanity fair, where cakes were sold, and country games celebrated.
+[Caradoc was canonised by Pope Innocent III. at the instance of
+Giraldus.]
+
+{80}  This curious superstition is still preserved, in a debased form,
+among the descendants of the Flemish population of this district, where
+the young women practise a sort of divination with the bladebone of a
+shoulder of mutton to discover who will be their sweetheart.  It is still
+more curious that William de Rubruquis, in the thirteenth century, found
+the same superstition existing among the Tartars.
+
+{82a}  Arnulph, younger son of Roger de Montgomery, did his homage for
+Dyved, and is said, by our author, to have erected a slender fortress
+with stakes and turf at Pembroke, in the reign of king Henry I., which,
+however, appears to have been so strong as to have resisted the hostile
+attack of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn in 1092, and of several lords of North
+Wales, in 1094.
+
+{82b}  Walter Fitz-Other, at the time of the general survey of England by
+William the Conqueror, was castellan of Windsor, warden of the forests in
+Berkshire, and possessed several lordships in the counties of Middlesex,
+Hampshire, and Buckinghamshire, which dominus Otherus is said to have
+held in the time of Edward the Confessor.  William, the eldest son of
+Walter, took the surname of Windsor from his father’s office, and was
+ancestor to the lords Windsor, who have since been created earls of
+Plymouth: and from Gerald, brother of William, the Geralds, Fitz-geralds,
+and many other families are lineally descended.  The Gerald here
+mentioned by Giraldus is sometimes surnamed De Windsor, and also
+Fitz-Walter, _i.e._ the son of Walter; having slain Owen, son of Cadwgan
+ap Bleddyn, chief lord of Cardiganshire, he was made president of the
+county of Pembroke.
+
+{83}  Wilfred is mentioned by Browne Willis in his list of bishops of St.
+David’s, as the forty-seventh, under the title of Wilfride, or Griffin:
+he died about the year 1116.
+
+{84}  Maenor Pyrr, now known by the name of Manorbeer, is a small village
+on the sea coast, between Tenby and Pembroke, with the remaining shell of
+a large castle.  Our author has given a farfetched etymology to this
+castle and the adjoining island, in calling them the mansion and island
+of Pyrrhus: a much more natural and congenial conjecture may be made in
+supposing Maenor Pyrr to be derived from Maenor, a Manor, and Pyrr the
+plural of Por, a lord; _i.e._ the Manor of the lords, and, consequently,
+Inys Pyrr, the Island of the lords.  As no mention whatever is made of
+the castle in the Welsh Chronicle, I am inclined to think it was only a
+castellated mansion, and therefore considered of no military importance
+in those days of continued warfare throughout Wales.  It is one of the
+most interesting spots in our author’s Itinerary, for it was the property
+of the Barri family, and the birth-place of Giraldus; in the parish
+church, the sepulchral effigy of a near relation, perhaps a brother, is
+still extant, in good preservation.  Our author has evidently made a
+digression in order to describe this place.
+
+{86a}  The house of Stephen Wiriet was, I presume, Orielton.  There is a
+monument in the church of St. Nicholas, at Pembroke, to the memory of
+John, son and heir of Sir Hugh Owen, of Bodeon in Anglesea, knight, and
+Elizabeth, daughter and heir of George Wiriet, of Orielton, A.D. 1612.
+
+{86b}  The family name of Not, or Nott, still exists in Pembrokeshire.
+[The descendants of Sir Hugh continued to live at Orielton, and the title
+is still in existence.]
+
+{88}  There are two churches in Pembrokeshire called Stackpoole, one of
+which, called Stackpoole Elidor, derived its name probably from the
+Elidore de Stakepole mentioned in this chapter by Giraldus.  It contains
+several ancient monuments, and amongst them the effigies of a
+cross-legged knight, which has been for many years attributed to the
+aforesaid Elidore.
+
+{90}  Ramsey Island, near St. David’s, was always famous for its breed of
+falcons.
+
+{91a}  Camros, a small village, containing nothing worthy of remark,
+excepting a large tumulus.  It appears, by this route of the Crusaders,
+that the ancient road to Menevia, or St. David’s, led through Camros,
+whereas the present turnpike road lies a mile and a half to the left of
+it.  It then descends to Niwegal Sands, and passes near the picturesque
+little harbour of Solvach, situated in a deep and narrow cove, surrounded
+by high rocks.
+
+{91b}  The remains of vast submerged forests are commonly found on many
+parts of the coast of Wales, especially in the north.  Giraldus has
+elsewhere spoken of this event in the Vaticinal History, book i. chap.
+35.
+
+{94}  Giraldus, ever glad to _pun_ upon words, here opposes the word
+_nomen_ to _omen_.  “_Plus nominis habens quàm ominis_.”  He may have
+perhaps borrowed this expression from Plautus.  Plautus Delphini, tom.
+ii. p. 27.—Actus iv., Scena iv.
+
+{96}  Armorica is derived from the Celtic words Ar and Mor, which signify
+on or near the sea, and so called to distinguish it from the more inland
+parts of Britany.  The maritime cities of Gaul were called “Armoricæ
+civitates—Universis civitatibus quæ oceanum attingunt, quæque Gallorum
+consuetudine Armoricæ appellantur.”—_Cæsar_.  _Comment_, lib. vii.
+
+{97}  The bishops of Hereford, Worcester, Llandaff, Bangor, St. Asaph,
+Llanbadarn, and Margam, or Glamorgan.
+
+{98}  The value of the carucate is rather uncertain, or, probably, it
+varied in different districts according to the character of the land; but
+it is considered to have been usually equivalent to a hide, that is, to
+about 240 statute acres.
+
+{99a}  This little brook does not, in modern times, deserve the title
+here given to it by Giraldus, for it produces trout of a most delicious
+flavour.
+
+{99b}  See the Vaticinal History, book i. c. 37.
+
+{100} Lechlavar, so called from the words in Welsh, Llêc, a stone, and
+Llavar, speech.
+
+{102a}  Cemmeis, Cemmaes, Kemes, and Kemeys.  Thus is the name of this
+district variously spelt.  Cemmaes in Welsh signifies a circle or
+amphitheatre for games.
+
+{102b}  [Cardigan.]
+
+{102c}  There is place in Cemmaes now called Tre-liffan, _i.e._ Toad’s
+town; and over a chimney-piece in the house there is a figure of a toad
+sculptured in marble, said to have been brought from Italy, and intended
+probably to confirm and commemorate this tradition of Giraldus.
+
+{103a}  Preseleu, Preselaw, Prescelly, Presselw.
+
+{103b}  St. Bernacus is said, by Cressy, to have been a man of admirable
+sanctity, who, through devotion, made a journey to Rome; and from thence
+returning into Britany, filled all places with the fame of his piety and
+miracles.  He is commemorated on the 7th of April.  Several churches in
+Wales were dedicated to him; one of which, called Llanfyrnach, or the
+church of St. Bernach, is situated on the eastern side of the Prescelley
+mountain.
+
+{103c}  The “castrum apud Lanhever” was at Nevern, a small village
+between Newport and Cardigan, situated on the banks of a little river
+bearing the same name which discharges itself into the sea at Newport.
+On a hill immediately above the western side of the parish church, is the
+site of a large castle, undoubtedly the one alluded to by Giraldus.
+
+{105a}  On the Cemmaes, or Pembrokeshire side of the river Teivi, and
+near the end of the bridge, there is a place still called Park y Cappel,
+or the Chapel Field, which is undoubtedly commemorative of the
+circumstance recorded by our author.
+
+{105b}  Now known by the name of Kenarth, which may be derived from Cefn
+y garth—the back of the wear, a ridge of land behind the wear.
+
+{106a}  The name of St. Ludoc is not found in the lives of the saints.
+Leland mentions a St. Clitauc, who had a church dedicated to him in South
+Wales, and who was killed by some of his companions whilst hunting.
+“Clitaucus Southe-Walliæ regulus inter venandum a suis sodalibus occisus
+est.  Ecciesia S. Clitauci in Southe Wallia.”—_Leland_, _Itin._, tom.
+viii. p. 95.
+
+{106b}  The Teivy is still very justly distinguished for the quantity and
+quality of its salmon, but the beaver no longer disturbs its streams.
+That this animal did exist in the days of Howel Dha (though even then a
+rarity), the mention made of it in his laws, and the high price set upon
+its skin, most clearly evince; but if the castor of Giraldus, and the
+avanc of Humphrey Llwyd and of the Welsh dictionaries, be really the same
+animal, it certainly was not peculiar to the Teivi, but was equally known
+in North Wales, as the names of places testify.  A small lake in
+Montgomeryshire is called Llyn yr Afangc; a pool in the river Conwy, not
+far from Bettws, bears the same name, and the vale called Nant Ffrancon,
+upon the river Ogwen, in Caernarvonshire, is supposed by the natives to
+be a corruption from Nant yr Afan cwm, or the Vale of the Beavers.  Mr.
+Owen, in his dictionary, says, “That it has been seen in this vale within
+the memory of man.”  Giraldus has previously spoken of the beaver in his
+Topography of Ireland, Distinc. i. c. 21.
+
+{109a}  Our author having made a long digression, in order to introduce
+the history of the beaver, now continues his Itinerary.  From Cardigan,
+the archbishop proceeded towards Pont-Stephen, leaving a hill, called
+Cruc Mawr, on the left hand, which still retains its ancient name, and
+agrees exactly with the position given to it by Giraldus.  On its summit
+is a tumulus, and some appearance of an intrenchment.
+
+{109b}  In 1135.
+
+{109c}  Lampeter, or Llanbedr, a small town near the river Teivi, still
+retains the name of Pont-Stephen.
+
+{109d}  Leland thus speaks of Ystrad Fflur or Strata Florida:
+“Strateflere is set round about with montanes not far distant, except on
+the west parte, where Diffrin Tyve is.  Many hilles therabout hath bene
+well woddid, as evidently by old rotes apperith, but now in them is
+almost no woode—the causes be these.  First, the wood cut down was never
+copisid, and this hath beene a cause of destruction of wood thorough
+Wales.  Secondly, after cutting down of woodys, the gottys hath so bytten
+the young spring that it never grew but lyke shrubbes.  Thirddely, men
+for the monys destroied the great woddis that thei should not harborow
+theves.”  This monastery is situated in the wildest part of
+Cardiganshire, surrounded on three sides by a lofty range of those
+mountains, called by our author Ellennith; a spot admirably suited to the
+severe and recluse order of the Cistercians.
+
+{110a}  [Melenydd or Maelienydd.]
+
+{110b}  Leaving Stratflur, the archbishop and his train returned to
+Llanddewi Brefi, and from thence proceeded to Llanbadarn Vawr.
+
+{111}  Llanbadarn Fawr, the church of St. Paternus the Great, is situated
+in a valley, at a short distance from the sea-port town of Aberystwyth in
+Cardiganshire.
+
+{112}  The name of this bishop is said to have been Idnerth, and the same
+personage whose death is commemorated in an inscription at Llanddewi
+Brefi.
+
+{113a}  This river is now called Dovey.
+
+{113b}  From Llanbadarn our travellers directed their course towards the
+sea-coast, and ferrying over the river Dovey, which separates North from
+South Wales, proceeded to Towyn, in Merionethshire, where they passed the
+night.  [Venedotia is the Latin name for Gwynedd.]
+
+{113c}  The province of Merionyth was at this period occupied by David,
+the son of Owen Gwynedd, who had seized it forcibly from its rightful
+inheritor.  This Gruffydd—who must not be confused with his
+great-grandfather, the famous Gruffydd ap Conan, prince of Gwynedd—was
+son to Conan ap Owen Gwynedd; he died A.D. 1200, and was buried in a
+monk’s cowl, in the abbey of Conway.
+
+{113d}  The epithet “bifurcus,” ascribed by Giraldus to the river Maw,
+alludes to its two branches, which unite their streams a little way below
+Llaneltid bridge, and form an æstuary, which flows down to the sea at
+Barmouth or Aber Maw.  The ford at this place, discovered by Malgo, no
+longer exists.
+
+{114a}  Llanfair is a small village, about a mile and a half from
+Harlech, with a very simple church, placed in a retired spot, backed by
+precipitous mountains.  Here the archbishop and Giraldus slept, on their
+journey from Towyn to Nevyn.
+
+{114b}  Ardudwy was a comot of the cantref Dunodic, in Merionethshire,
+and according to Leland, “Streccith from half Trait Mawr to Abermaw on
+the shore XII myles.”  The bridge here alluded to, was probably over the
+river Artro, which forms a small æstuary near the village of Llanbedr.
+
+{115a}  The Traeth Mawr, or the large sands, are occasioned by a variety
+of springs and rivers which flow from the Snowdon mountains, and, uniting
+their streams, form an æstuary below Pont Aberglaslyn.
+
+{115b} The Traeth Bychan, or the small sands, are chiefly formed by the
+river which runs down the beautiful vale of Festiniog to Maentwrog and
+Tan y bwlch, near which place it becomes navigable.  Over each of these
+sands the road leads from Merionyth into Caernarvonshire.
+
+{115c}  Lleyn, the Canganorum promontorium of Ptolemy, was an extensive
+hundred containing three comots, and comprehending that long neck of land
+between Caernarvon and Cardigan bays.  Leland says, “Al Lene is as it
+were a pointe into the se.”
+
+{115d}  In mentioning the rivers which the missionaries had lately
+crossed, our author has been guilty of a great topographical error in
+placing the river Dissennith between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, as also in
+placing the Arthro between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bychan, as a glance
+at a map will shew.
+
+{115e}  To two personages of this name the gift of prophecy was anciently
+attributed: one was called Ambrosius, the other Sylvestris; the latter
+here mentioned (and whose works Giraldus, after a long research, found at
+Nefyn) was, according to the story, the son of Morvryn, and generally
+called Merddin Wyllt, or Merddin the Wild.  He is pretended to have
+flourished about the middle of the sixth century, and ranked with Merddin
+Emrys and Taliesin, under the appellation of the three principal bards of
+the Isle of Britain.
+
+{116a}  This island once afforded, according to the old accounts, an
+asylum to twenty thousand saints, and after death, graves to as many of
+their bodies; whence it has been called Insula Sanctorum, the Isle of
+Saints.  This island derived its British name of Enlli from the fierce
+current which rages between it and the main land.  The Saxons named it
+Bardsey, probably from the Bards, who retired hither, preferring solitude
+to the company of invading foreigners.
+
+{116b}  This ancient city has been recorded by a variety of names.
+During the time of the Romans it was called Segontium, the site of which
+is now called Caer Seiont, the fortress on the river Seiont, where the
+Setantiorum portus, and the Seteia Æstuarium of Ptolemy have also been
+placed.  It is called, by Nennius, Caer Custent, or the city of
+Constantius; and Matthew of Westminster says, that about the year 1283
+the body of Constantius, father of the emperor Constantine, was found
+there, and honourably desposited in the church by order of Edward I.
+
+{116c}  I have searched in vain for a valley which would answer the
+description here given by Geraldus, and the scene of so much pleasantry
+to the travellers; for neither do the old or new road, from Caernarvon to
+Bangor, in any way correspond.  But I have since been informed, that
+there is a valley called Nant y Garth (near the residence of Ashton
+Smith, Esq. at Vaenol), which terminates at about half a mile’s distance
+from the Menai, and therefore not observable from the road; it is a
+serpentine ravine of more than a mile, in a direction towards the
+mountains, and probably that which the crusaders crossed on their journey
+to Bangor.
+
+{117}  Bangor.—This cathedral church must not be confounded with the
+celebrated college of the same name, in Flintshire, founded by Dunod
+Vawr, son of Pabo, a chieftain who lived about the beginning of the sixth
+century, and from him called Bangor Dunod.  The Bangor, _i.e._ the
+college, in Caernarvonshire, is properly called Bangor Deiniol, Bangor
+Vawr yn Arllechwedd, and Bangor Vawr uwch Conwy.  It owes its origin to
+Deiniol, son of Dunod ap Pabo, a saint who lived in the early part of the
+sixth century, and in the year 525 founded this college at Bangor, in
+Caernarvonshire, over which he presided as abbot.  Guy Rufus, called by
+our author Guianus, was at this time bishop of this see, and died in
+1190.
+
+{118a}  Guianus, or Guy Rufus, dean of Waltham, in Essex, and consecrated
+to this see, at Ambresbury, Wilts, in May 1177.
+
+{118b}  Mona, or Anglesey.
+
+{118c}  The spot selected by Baldwin for addressing the multitude, has in
+some degree been elucidated by the anonymous author of the Supplement to
+Rowland’s Mona Antiqua.  He says, that “From tradition and memorials
+still retained, we have reasons to suppose that they met in an open place
+in the parish of Landisilio, called Cerrig y Borth.  The inhabitants, by
+the grateful remembrance, to perpetuate the honour of that day, called
+the place where the archbishop stood, Carreg yr Archjagon, _i.e._ the
+Archbishop’s Rock; and where prince Roderic stood, Maen Roderic, or the
+Stone of Roderic.”  This account is in part corroborated by the following
+communication from Mr. Richard Llwyd of Beaumaris, who made personal
+inquiries on the spot.  “Cerrig y Borth, being a rough, undulating
+district, could not, for that reason, have been chosen for addressing a
+multitude; but adjoining it there are two eminences which command a
+convenient surface for that purpose; one called Maen Rodi (the Stone or
+Rock of Roderic), the property of Owen Williams, Esq.; and the other
+Carreg Iago, belonging to Lord Uxbridge.  This last, as now pronounced,
+means the Rock of St. James; but I have no difficulty in admitting, that
+Carreg yr Arch Iagon may (by the compression of common, undiscriminating
+language, and the obliteration of the event from ignorant minds by the
+lapse of so many centuries) be contracted into Carreg Iago.  Cadair yr
+archesgob is now also contracted into Cadair (chair), a seat naturally
+formed in the rock, with a rude arch over it, on the road side, which is
+a rough terrace over the breast of a rocky and commanding cliff, and the
+nearest way from the above eminences to the insulated church of
+Landisilio.  This word Cadair, though in general language a chair, yet
+when applied to exalted situations, means an observatory, as Cadair
+Idris, etc.; but there can, in my opinion, be no doubt that this seat in
+the rock is that described by the words Cadair yr Archesgob.”  [Still
+more probable, and certainly more flattering to Giraldus, is that it was
+called “Cadair yr Arch Ddiacon” (the Archdeacon’s chair).]
+
+{120a}  This hundred contained the comots of Mynyw, or St. David’s, and
+Pencaer.
+
+{120b}  I am indebted to Mr. Richard Llwyd for the following curious
+extract from a Manuscript of the late intelligent Mr. Rowlands,
+respecting this miraculous stone, called Maen Morddwyd, or the stone of
+the thigh, which once existed in Llanidan parish.  “Hic etiam lapis
+lumbi, vulgo Maen Morddwyd, in hujus cæmiterii vallo locum sibi e longo a
+retro tempore obtinuit, exindeque his nuperis annis, quo nescio papicola
+vel qua inscia manu nulla ut olim retinente virtute, quæ tunc penitus
+elanguit aut vetustate evaporavit, nullo sane loci dispendio, nec illi
+qui eripuit emolumento, ereptus et deportatus fuit.”
+
+{120c}  Hugh, earl of Chester.  The first earl of Chester after the
+Norman conquest, was Gherbod, a Fleming, who, having obtained leave from
+king William to go into Flanders for the purpose of arranging some family
+concerns, was taken and detained a prisoner by his enemies; upon which
+the conqueror bestowed the earldom of Chester on Hugh de Abrincis or of
+Avranches, “to hold as freely by the sword, as the king himself did
+England by the crown.”
+
+{121}  This church is at Llandyfrydog, a small village in Twrkelin
+hundred, not far distant from Llanelian, and about three miles from the
+Bay of Dulas.  St. Tyvrydog, to whom it was dedicated, was one of the
+sons of Arwystyl Glof, a saint who lived in the latter part of the sixth
+century.
+
+{123a}  Ynys Lenach, now known by the name of Priestholme Island, bore
+also the title of Ynys Seiriol, from a saint who resided upon it in the
+sixth century.  It is also mentioned by Dugdale and Pennant under the
+appellation of Insula Glannauch.
+
+{123b}  Alberic de Veer, or Vere, came into England with William the
+Conqueror, and as a reward for his military services, received very
+extensive possessions and lands, particularly in the county of Essex.
+Alberic, his eldest son, was great chamberlain of England in the reign of
+king Henry I., and was killed A.D. 1140, in a popular tumult at London.
+Henry de Essex married one of his daughters named Adeliza.  He enjoyed,
+by inheritance, the office of standard-bearer, and behaved himself so
+unworthily in the military expedition which king Henry undertook against
+Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, in the year 1157, by throwing down
+his ensign, and betaking himself to flight, that he was challenged for
+this misdemeanor by Robert de Mountford, and by him vanquished in single
+combat; whereby, according to the laws of his country, his life was
+justly forfeited.  But the king interposing his royal mercy, spared it,
+but confiscated his estates, ordering him to be shorn a monk, and placed
+in the abbey of Reading.  There appears to be some biographical error in
+the words of Giraldus—“Filia scilicet Henrici de Essexia,” for by the
+genealogical accounts of the Vere and Essex families, we find that Henry
+de Essex married the daughter of the second Alberic de Vere; whereas our
+author seems to imply, that the mother of Alberic the second was daughter
+to Henry de Essex.
+
+{124}  “And Jacob took him rods of green poplar, and of the hazel, and of
+the chesnut tree, and peeled white strakes in them, and made the white
+appear which was in the rods.  And he set the rods, which he had peeled,
+before the flocks in the gutters in the watering troughs, when the flocks
+came to drink, that they should conceive when they came to drink.  And
+the flocks conceived before the rods, and brought forth cattle speckled
+and spotted.”—Gen. xxx.
+
+{125a}  Owen Gwynedd, the son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, and was
+buried at Bangor.  When Baldwin, during his progress, visited Bangor and
+saw his tomb, he charged the bishop (Guy Ruffus) to remove the body out
+of the cathedral, when he had a fit opportunity so to do, in regard that
+archbishop Becket had excommunicated him heretofore, because he had
+married his first cousin, the daughter of Grono ap Edwyn, and that
+notwithstanding he had continued to live with her till she died.  The
+bishop, in obedience to the charge, made a passage from the vault through
+the south wall of the church underground, and thus secretly shoved the
+body into the churchyard.—_Hengwrt_.  _MSS._  Cadwalader brother of Owen
+Gwynedd, died in 1172.
+
+{125b}  The Merlin here mentioned was called Ambrosius, and according to
+the Cambrian Biography flourished about the middle of the fifth century.
+Other authors say, that this reputed prophet and magician was the son of
+a Welsh nun, daughter of a king of Demetia, and born at Caermarthen, and
+that he was made king of West Wales by Vortigern, who then reigned in
+Britain.
+
+{126}  Owen Gwynedd “left behind him manie children gotten by diverse
+women, which were not esteemed by their mothers and birth, but by their
+prowes and valiantnesse.”  By his first wife, Gladus, the daughter of
+Llywarch ap Trahaern ap Caradoc, he had Orwerth Drwyndwn, that is, Edward
+with the broken nose; for which defect he was deemed unfit to preside
+over the principality of North Wales and was deprived of his rightful
+inheritance, which was seized by his brother David, who occupied it for
+the space of twenty-four years.
+
+{128a}  The travellers pursuing their journey along the sea coast,
+crossed the æstuary of the river Conway under Deganwy, a fortress of very
+remote antiquity.
+
+{128b}  At this period the Cistercian monastery of Conway was in its
+infancy, for its foundation has been attributed to Llewelyn ap Iorwerth,
+in the year 1185, (only three years previous to Baldwin’s visitation,)
+who endowed it with very extensive possessions and singular privileges.
+Like Stratflur, this abbey was the repository of the national records,
+and the mausoleum of many of its princes.
+
+{129a}  [David was the illegitimate son of Owen Gwynedd, and had
+dispossessed his brother, Iorwerth Drwyndwn.]
+
+{129b}  This ebbing spring in the province of Tegeingl, or Flintshire,
+has been placed by the old annotator on Giraldus at Kilken, which
+Humphrey Llwyd, in his Breviary, also mentions.
+
+{129c}  See before, the Topography of Ireland, Distinc. ii. c. 7.
+
+{129d}  Saint Asaph, in size, though not in revenues, may deserve the
+epithet of “paupercula” attached to it by Giraldus.  From its situation
+near the banks of the river Elwy, it derived the name of Llanelwy, or the
+church upon the Elwy.
+
+{129e}  Leaving Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, the archbishop proceeded to the
+little cell of Basinwerk, where he and his attendants passed the night.
+It is situated at a short distance from Holywell, on a gentle eminence
+above a valley, watered by the copious springs that issue from St.
+Winefred’s well, and on the borders of a marsh, which extends towards the
+coast of Cheshire.
+
+{129f}  Coleshill is a township in Holywell parish, Flintshire, which
+gives name to a hundred, and was so called from its abundance of fossil
+fuel.  Pennant, vol. i. p. 42.
+
+{130}  The three military expeditions of king Henry into Wales, here
+mentioned, were A.D. 1157, the first expedition into North Wales; A.D.
+1162, the second expedition into South Wales; A.D. 1165, the third
+expedition into North Wales.  In the first, the king was obliged to
+retreat with considerable loss, and the king’s standard-bearer, Henry de
+Essex, was accused of having in a cowardly manner abandoned the royal
+standard and led to a serious disaster.
+
+{131a}  The lake of Penmelesmere, or Pymplwy meer, or the meer of the
+five parishes adjoining the lake, is, in modern days, better known by the
+name of Bala Pool.  The assertion made by Giraldus, of salmon never being
+found in the lake of Bala, is not founded on truth.
+
+{131b}  Giraldus seems to have been mistaken respecting the burial-place
+of the emperor Henry V., for he died May 23, A.D. 1125, at Utrecht, and
+his body was conveyed to Spire for interment.
+
+{132}  This legend, which represents king Harold as having escaped from
+the battle of Hastings, and as having lived years after as a hermit on
+the borders of Wales, is mentioned by other old writers, and has been
+adopted as true by some modern writers.
+
+{133a}  Some difficulty occurs in fixing the situation of the Album
+Monasterium, mentioned in the text, as three churches in the county of
+Shropshire bore that appellation; the first at Whitchurch, the second at
+Oswestry, the third at Alberbury.  The narrative of our author is so
+simple, and corresponds so well with the topography of the country
+through which they passed, that I think no doubt ought to be entertained
+about the course of their route.  From Chester they directed their way to
+the White Monastery, or Whitchurch, and from thence towards Oswestry,
+where they slept, and were entertained by William Fitz-Alan, after the
+English mode of hospitality.
+
+{133b}  By the Latin context it would appear that Reiner was bishop of
+Oswestree: “Ab episcopo namque loci illius Reinerio multitudo fuerat ante
+signata.”  Reiner succeeded Adam in the bishopric of St. Asaph in the
+year 1186, and died in 1220.  He had a residence near Oswestry, at which
+place, previous to the arrival of Baldwin, he had signed many of the
+people with the cross.
+
+{133c}  In the time of William the Conqueror, Alan, the son of Flathald,
+or Flaald, obtained, by the gift of that king, the castle of Oswaldestre,
+with the territory adjoining, which belonged to Meredith ap Blethyn, a
+Briton.  This Alan, having married the daughter and heir to Warine,
+sheriff of Shropshire, had in her right the barony of the same Warine.
+To him succeeded William, his son and heir.  He married Isabel de Say,
+daughter and heir to Helias de Say, niece to Robert earl of Gloucester,
+lady of Clun, and left issue by her, William, his son and successor, who,
+in the 19th Henry II., or before, departed this life, leaving William
+Fitz-Alan his son and heir, who is mentioned in the text.
+
+{134a}  Robert de Belesme, earl of Shrewsbury, was son of Roger de
+Montgomery, who led the centre division of the army in that memorable
+battle which secured to William the conquest of England, and for his
+services was advanced to the earldoms of Arundel and Shrewsbury.
+
+{134b}  This expedition into Wales took place A.D. 1165, and has been
+already spoken of.
+
+{136}  The princes mentioned by Giraldus as most distinguished in North
+and South Wales, and most celebrated in his time, were, 1. Owen, son of
+Gruffydd, in North Wales; 2. Meredyth, son of Gruffydd, in South Wales;
+3. Owen de Cyfeilioc, in Powys; 4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, in North
+Wales; 5. Gruffydd of Maelor in Powys; 6. Rhys, son of Gruffydd, in South
+Wales; 7. David, son of Owen, in North Wales; 8. Howel, son of Iorwerth,
+in South Wales.
+
+1.  Owen Gwynedd, son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, having governed
+his country well and worthily for the space of thirty-two years.  He was
+fortunate and victorious in all his affairs, and never took any
+enterprise in hand but he achieved it.  2. Meredyth ap Gruffydd ap Rhys,
+lord of Caerdigan and Stratywy, died in 1153, at the early age of
+twenty-five; a worthy knight, fortunate in battle, just and liberal to
+all men.  3. Owen Cyfeilioc was the son of Gruffydd Meredyth ap Meredyth
+ap Blethyn, who was created lord of Powys by Henry I., and died about the
+year 1197, leaving his principality to his son Gwenwynwyn, from whom that
+part of Powys was called Powys Gwenwynwyn, to distinguish it from Powys
+Vadoc, the possession of the lords of Bromfield.  The poems ascribed to
+him possess great spirit, and prove that he was, as Giraldus terms him,
+“linguæ dicacis,” in its best sense.  4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd ap
+Conan, prince of North Wales, died in 1175.  Gruffydd of Maelor was son
+of Madoc ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, prince of Powys, who died at Winchester
+in 1160.  “This man was ever the king of England’s friend, and was one
+that feared God, and relieved the poor: his body was conveyed honourably
+to Powys, and buried at Myvod.”  His son Gruffydd succeeded him in the
+lordship of Bromfield, and died about the year 1190.  6. Rhys ap
+Gruffydd, or the lord Rhys, was son of Gruffydd ap Rhys ap Tewdwr, who
+died in 1137.  The ancient writers have been very profuse in their
+praises of this celebrated Prince.  7. David, son of Owen Gwynedd, who,
+on the death if his father, forcibly seized the principality of North
+Wales, slaying his brother Howel in battle, and setting aside the claims
+of the lawful inheritor of the throne, Iorwerth Trwyndwn, whose son,
+Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, in 1194, recovered his inheritance.  8. Howel, son
+of Iorwerth of Caerleon, appears to have been distinguished chiefly by
+his ferocity.
+
+{137}  Malpas in Cheshire.
+
+{138}  It appears that a small college of prebendaries, or secular
+canons, resided at Bromfield in the reign of king Henry I.; Osbert, the
+prior, being recorded as a witness to a deed made before the year 1148.
+In 1155, they became Benedictines, and surrendered church and lands to
+the abbey of St. Peter’s at Gloucester, whereupon a prior and monks were
+placed there, and continued till the dissolution.  An ancient gateway and
+some remains of the priory still testify the existence of this religious
+house, the local situation of which, near the confluence of the rivers
+Oney and Teme, has been accurately described by Leland.
+
+{139}  Baldwin was born at Exeter, in Devonshire, of a low family, but
+being endowed by nature with good abilities, applied them to an early
+cultivation of sacred and profane literature.  His good conduct procured
+him the friendship of Bartholomew bishop of Exeter, who promoted him to
+the archdeaconry of that see; resigning this preferment, he assumed the
+cowl, and in a few years became abbot of the Cistercian monastery at
+Ford.  In the year 1180, he was advanced to the bishopric of Worcester,
+and in 1184, translated to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury.  In the
+year 1188, he made his progress through Wales, preaching with fervour the
+service of the Cross; to which holy cause he fell a sacrifice in the year
+1190, having religiously, honourably, and charitably ended his days in
+the Holy Land.
+
+{140}  Giraldus here alludes to the dignity of archdeacon, which Baldwin
+had obtained in the church of Exeter.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP BALDWIN
+THROUGH WALES***
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