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diff --git a/11375-0.txt b/11375-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4b2777 --- /dev/null +++ b/11375-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,807 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11375 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustration. + See 11375-h.htm or 11375-h.zip: + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/1/3/7/11375/11375-h/11375-h.htm) + or + (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/1/3/7/11375/11375-h.zip) + + + + +THE MIRROR OF LITERATURE, AMUSEMENT, AND INSTRUCTION. + +VOL. 10, No. 273.] SUPPLEMENTARY NUMBER. [PRICE 2d. + + + + * * * * * + + + + +[Illustration: New Palace, St. James's Park.] + + + +[Illustration: Triumphal Arch at Hyde Park.] + + + +THE NEW PALACE IN ST. JAMES'S PARK. + + +Palaces are at all times objects of national interest, or rather they +are national concerns. They belong to the attributes of royalty, and +in some instances have been erected by a grateful people to celebrate +the virtues of patriot princes. We therefore make no apology to our +readers for occupying so large a portion of the present Supplementary +Number with the representations and details of the New Palace, (the +exterior of which is just now completed,) and of the consequent +improvements in the adjoining Parks; since we are persuaded that the +patriotic feelings of our subscribers will hail them as subjects of +paramount importance. The great Lord Bacon, who treated these matters +with the gravity of a philosopher, in his "Essays," gives a "brief +model of a princely palace;" and in our times Napoleon is known to +have expended many thousands in restoring the gilding of the palace at +Versailles--although the extravagance of its founders paved the way +for the events in which he distinguished himself. + +In architectural improvement, London has made greater advances since +the late peace, than in the entire century which preceded that +auspicious event. Being unquestionably the richest, the largest, and +most populous city of Europe, the seat of a wealthier court, and a +more opulent body of nobility and gentry than any other metropolis, it +seems only a reasonable expectation that it should likewise excel all +others in the number and magnificence of its public edifices and +private dwellings. Such, however, is not the case; for, till within +the last few years, that most splendid and impressive of all the arts, +architecture, has been almost wholly neglected. + +The architectural superiority of London, such as it is, consists in +the number, size, and neatness of its principal streets and squares. +Petersburgh, Berlin, Naples, Turin, Geneva, Antwerp, Edinburgh, and +other places, have perhaps finer streets than any in London, but in +respect to their number there is no comparison. In _churches_, London +will probably be admitted, after Rome, to take the first rank among +the cities of Europe; but in _palaces_, London is confessedly excelled +by almost every other capital in Europe, both in public and private +edifices of this description; of the former, Whitehall, Carlton-house, +(now almost demolished,) and the Mansion-house, comprise the whole +list of buildings any way entitled to the appellation of palaces--and +even _their_ title has often been thought disputable. + +To rescue our national character from this opprobrium, or ill-timed +compliment to royalty, the remodelling of Buckingham-house, or rather +the erection of the _New Palace in St. James's Park_, was decided on; +and how far this design has been accomplished in the palace, we leave +it to the taste of our readers to determine. Various piecemeal, not +to say absurd, descriptions have, during the progress of the work, +appeared in the London and provincial papers, many of them originating +in party feeling; but the structure has now so far advanced to +completion as to enable every spectator to estimate its merits and +demerits; and we are sorry to add, that much of the censure bestowed +on the palace during its progress (though with bad motives) now proves +essentially correct. The name of the designer at present remains a +secret. His majesty is known to possess exquisite taste, and it is +scarcely believed that his approbation can have justified some of the +incongruities, not to say enormities of the building; be this as it +may, the general public feeling is that of disappointment and regret. + +The annexed view is of the central entrance front, facing east, +towards the Canal and the Horse Guards, taken from the Wall in St. +James's Park. The first objection is the site, in itself insuperable, +as will appear from the following remarks on the subject by Mr. +Loudon, editor of the _Gardener's Magazine_:-- + +"Had the problem," he says, "been proposed (how) to alter Buckingham +House and gardens, so as to render the former as unhealthy a dwelling +as possible, it could not have been better solved than by the works +now executed. The belt of trees which forms the margin of these +grounds, has long acted as the sides of a basin, or small valley, to +retain the vapours which were collected within; and which, when the +basin was full, could only flow out by the lower extremity, over the +roofs of the stables and other buildings at the palace. What vapour +did not escape in this manner, found its way through between the +sterns of the trees which adjoin these buildings, and through the +palace windows. Now, all the leading improvements on the grounds have +a direct tendency to increase this evil. They consist in thickening +the marginal belts on both sides of the hollow with evergreens, to +shut out London: in one place substituting for the belt an immense +bank of earth, to shut out the stables; and in the area of the grounds +forming numerous flower-gardens, and other scenes with dug surfaces, +a basin, fountains, and a lake of several acres. The effect of all +this will be a more copious and rapid exhalation of moisture from +the water, dug earth, and increased surface of foliage; and a more +complete dam to prevent the escape of this moist atmosphere, otherwise +than through the windows, or over the top of the palace. The garden +may be considered as a pond brimful of fog, the ornamental water as +the perpetual supply of this fog, the palace as a cascade which it +flows over, and the windows as the sluices which it passes through. We +defy any medical man, or meteorologist, to prove the contrary of what +we assert, viz. that Buckingham Palace is a dam to a pond of watery +vapour, and that the pond will always be filled with vapour to the +level of the top of the dam. The only question is, how far this vapour +is entitled to be called _malaria_. We have the misfortune to be able +to answer that question experimentally.... A man must be something +less or more than a king, to keep his health in that palace for any +length of time." + +On the subject of _malaria_, an Italian term for the produce of marshy +lands, the attention of the public has lately been powerfully excited +by a series of essays by Dr. Macculloch, an abstract of which will be +found at page 252, of our accompanying Number, under the head "Arcana +of Science." Dr. M. is supported in his opinion by Lord Bacon and +other philosophers; and he shows, that though it is commonly supposed +that standing waters, when clear and free from smell, and all running +waters, are perfectly salubrious, they may, in fact, be nearly as +injurious as those that are putrid and stagnant; "that, besides proper +marshes, fresh and salt meadows, and wet pasture lands generally, all +woods, coppices, thickets, rivers, lakes, ponds, _ornamental waters_, +pools, ditches--_plashy_ and _limited spots of ground generally_, &c., +send forth more or less of this noxious vapour; that wherever, in +short, any chemical compound of the vegetable elements is wetted, or +held in solution by water, there the poison in question may be or will +be produced, _provided the temperature be sufficiently high_; that the +smallest spot coming under any of the above denominations is +sufficient to produce _malaria_, and _a single inspiration of that +malaria to produce disease_." + +Such is the theory of Dr. Macculloch; but, as observed by a +contemporary, Why should he have observed any delicacy on this +subject?--why not have, long since, denounced the whole of the ponds +in St. James's, the Green, and Hyde Parks, Kensington Gardens, and the +Regent's Park, as pestilential nuisances to all around them? Besides, +he states that _malaria_ is only generated in _hot weather_; so that +the palace, being intended as a _winter_ residence, the health of our +gracious sovereign will, we hope, not be endangered by his residence. +That there is much show of reason in this objection, cannot be +denied; at the same time it should be remembered, that in all great +undertakings the conflicting prejudices and caprices of private +interests generally work too prominent a part: hence, opinions should +be entertained with caution. + +It is now time to speak of the _architectural_ character of the +palace. The main front represented in our engraving, forms three sides +of a quadrangle, thus II, the area being not far from equal, and +forming a clear space of about 250 feet in diameter. The central +entrance is a portico of two orders of architecture in height; the +lower is the Doric, copied from the temple of Theseus at Athens; the +upper is the Corinthian, resembling that style in the Pantheon at +Rome. This portico is so contrived, that upon the ground carriages can +drive through it; while above, there is an open and spacious gallery, +covered by a pediment on which statues are to be placed, and under +which is a long panel filled with figures in high relief. It is +understood that this entrance is to be exclusively appropriated for +the admission of his Majesty and the royal family. The above union of +two of the Greek orders is much censured: indeed a harmonious union of +any two of the Greek orders has never been an easy task. In the Doric +architecture of the ground story, the usual magnificence of this order +is wanting; the columns being merely surmounted by what is termed +"an architrave cornice," with the mutiles; while the frieze, with +its rich triglyphs and metopes is altogether omitted. The Corinthian +order of the upper story is altogether more worthy of admiration, +notwithstanding that some objection has been raised to the +"disproportionately slender columns, when contrasted with the massive +shafts beneath them." Here, too, the entire frieze, with its +emblematical embellishments of the British crown, surrounded with +laurel, and alternate leaves of the rose, the thistle and shamrock, is +sure to attract the eye of the spectator: the character and effect of +the whole is truly British. + +The Doric order, as adopted in the lower parts of the portico, is +carried round the three sides of the court, consisting of fluted +cast-iron columns, which are beautiful specimens of our excellence +in the art of founding. At each side of the portico, terminating the +centre front, is a pavilion, where the orders are again applied; +surmounting which is an attic, towering above the other parts of the +building, and decorated with pilasters and caryatides. Over the +pediment, or centre, will be seen a dome, which is however at the back +of the palace, over the state-chambers. This completes the _front +view_ as appears from the park. + +The north and south sides of the quadrangle are only two stories high. +In the centre of each there is also an entrance. At each extremity, +the building is raised, and roofed in a temple-like form, presenting +the ends towards the park with enriched pediments. + +In the front of our engraving is represented a spacious circular +enclosure which will be made, by an ornamental railing of mosaic gold, +and divided into compartments by terms. The same metallic composition +(which is patronized by Mr. Nash) is to be employed in every other +part heretofore constructed in iron. In the middle of this area the +Waterloo monument will be erected: it is to consist of a triumphal +arch, somewhat resembling that of Constantine, at Rome, with national +emblems, trophies, &c., and colossal statues in the above metal, +imitating bronze. + +The _south_ front, towards Pimlico, will form the general entrance to +the palace, a concave circular Ionic colonnade and lodges. Here the +old octagon library of Buckingham-House is to remain, when raised and +embellished after the manner of the Temple of the Winds: the remainder +of this range is chiefly allotted to the domestic offices. + +The _west_, or garden front, (of course, the back of the centre +building of the quadrangle) is strikingly picturesque; its impression +on the beholder is altogether beautiful and pleasing, and it is much +to be regretted that the front or park view, (which will of course be +exposed to public view, while the garden front will be comparatively +private,) does not partake more largely of this character. The _prima +facies_ of the former is not likely to be admired, since its few +excellencies require to be selected by nice observation. Some of its +details may delight the artist, but the effect of the garden front +will, on the most hasty observer, be that of order and simplicity, the +essentials of architectural perfection. + +The centre of the garden front is circular, embellished with columns +of the Corinthian order, supporting the dome already alluded to. The +upper story of the whole front is Corinthian, supported on a rustic +Ionic basement, and, says a contemporary, "though the latter, like the +Doric basement in front, has only an architrave cornice, yet in +consequence of the parts omitted being of little importance, and the +character of the Ionic more nearly allied, in point of delicacy, to +the Corinthian, the construction is altogether tolerably harmonious." +The outline is boldly broken into massive forms, which are, as Mr. +Loudon observes, "simple and easy to be comprehended, and yet +sufficiently enriched to mark the building as an abode destined for +splendid enjoyment." In this front, also, level with the middle or +principal tier of windows (those of the suite of state rooms) runs a +stone balcony or balustrade, supported by corbels of a mixed +character,--Gothic and Italian masques of chimera blended with wings +and scrolls of foliage of singular beauty. On this side, too, is an +extensive terrace, descending into the ground, with a rusticated +front; and a balustrade with pedestals supporting vases of antique and +classical models; and at each end an open Ionic temple, intended to be +used as a summer conservatory. + +The _north_ front facing Piccadilly is of the same style and character +with the garden front, but of lighter proportions. Here are the king's +private apartments, from choice, comparatively small and compact, and +the cabinet picture-gallery. Here, also, the terrace is continued, and +a similar Ionic temple conservatory placed at the other extremity. +Thus, his majesty's windows look out between these conservatories, +upon the flower-garden spread below. + +We are bound to acknowledge our partial, if not entire concurrence, +in the general criticism on the central front, and of the two wings. +The first impression is far from that produced by unity, grandeur, or +elegance; there is a fantastical assemblage of turrets, attics, and +chimneys, and a poverty or disproportion, especially in "the temple-like +forms" which complete the ends towards the park. The dome, too, has been +sarcastically compared with a "Brobdignagian egg." It strictly belongs +to the back part of the palace, and had it been screened from the front, +its form might have been less objectionable. + +Of the internal arrangements of the palace, little is as yet perfectly +known. On the principal floor of the centre, between the east and west +suites of rooms, runs a splendid picture and statue gallery (the whole +length of the building); the light into which is to be admitted from +the sides, in a slanting direction, by metal skylights. The ceiling +has iron girders thrown across, and is arched with combs, each having +the ends closed, with the exception of a small hole (like an inverted +flower-pot), which admits a current of air to circulate through the +floor. The roof of this gallery is flat, and covered with slate +embedded in a composition of hot coal-tar, lime, and sand: the roofing +of the other parts of the palace is mostly covered with a similar +composition, but _not_ slated. The approach to the gallery is up the +grand stairs, and through several rooms, in which will be disposed the +king's magnificent collection of armour. The floors throughout are +fireproof, formed of iron joists, and arched with hollow bricks of +a singular construction. + +The group for the pediment of the _east facade_ of the palace, +representing the triumph of Britannia, by Mr. Bailey, is nearly +finished. + +The original gardens of Buckingham House, an extensive space, will +of course continue to be the grounds of the new royal residence; but +considerable alterations have been made to render them eligible for that +purpose. In order to conceal from the windows the great pile of stables +lately erected in Pimlico, near the lower end of Grosvenor-place, a +large artificial mound has been raised, and planted with curious trees +and shrubs.[1] The whole area now assumes all the appearances of natural +hill and dale, is finely wooded, diversified with flowering and +evergreen shrubs, with fine lawns broken into parterres, and possessing +a noble serpentine piece of water, so disposed as to give the idea of +great extent.[2] This water winds round clumps of forest trees, which +have been preserved for that purpose, and all that could be retained of +the previously existing scene. It is supplied from a large circular +reservoir, (near the top of the hill at Hyde Park Corner,) which is fed +by a main from the Serpentine river. This reservoir, almost like a Roman +work for magnitude, may be made a beautiful feature in the gardens--in +copious and refreshing fountains, but not in pools and ornamental +basins, such as are included in the anathema of Dr. Macculloch. + +Although the scheme of the garden may, like many other projects, look +better _on paper_, than in practice, it affords ample space for the +display of much skill in artificial gardening. St. Cloud and Versailles +have their fountains, and why not St. James's? "Fountains, (that +sprinkle or spout water, or convey water, _as it never stays_ in +the bowls or the cistern,)" says Lord Bacon, are a great beauty and +refreshment; "but pools mar all, and make the garden unwholesome, +and full of flies and frogs." + + [1] This mound is said to resemble, in miniature, the scenery of + Cumberland and Westmoreland. Perhaps this is too courtly; but + it is surprising what the union of nature and art may effect in + this way. Barrett, Cipriani, and Gilpin contrived to paint a room + for Mr. Lock, at Norbury Park, so as to blend the scenery of + Cumberland and Westmoreland, with the view from the windows, and + to make it appear a continuation; and the effect was delightful, + as thousands of delighted visiters have testified. + + [2] Some years since there was at Reigate, in Surrey, a successful + attempt made in this style of laying out grounds, on the very + site where the illustrious Lord Shaftesbury wrote his + "Characteristics," and probably the very background of the + Gribelin frontispiece to the early edition of that invaluable + work. This spot came afterwards into the possession of a + gentleman who laid it out and planted it in so many forms, as + to comprise in miniature whatever can be supposed in the most + noble seats; for in it were a mount, river, parterre, wilderness, + and gardens, and a lawn containing four or five deer, terminated + by a small wood; yet the whole extent of ground did not exceed + four acres. This occasioned it to be called _all the world in + an acre_. Something of this kind was also projected by John + Evelyn, called _Elysium Britannicum_, the plan of which is to + be found in his works; but he did not complete his scheme. + Gardening is one of the most interesting amusements of retirement, + and without gardens, palaces are but "gross handyworks." + Philosophers and Heroes have always been fondly attached to + gardens, and their retreats must form an agreeable relief to + the cumbrous cares of Royalty itself. + + * * * * * + + +ST. JAMES'S PARK. + +_References to the Plan_. + + +1. Parade at the Horse Guards. + +2. Park planted as a garden, with shrubberies and paths. + +3. Ornamental Water, containing three islands, planted with shrubs. + +4. The new Terrace, fronting the Grand Mall. + +5. New House now building. + +6. Carlton-street. + +7. Continuation of Waterloo-place, opening to the Park, with an +ornamental Circus in the centre. + +8. United Service Club House and Garden. + +9. Athenaeum Club House, with Pleasure-Grounds behind. + +10. Travellers' Club House. + +11. Heralds' College. + +12. Cockspur-street. + +13. Pall Mall. + +14. New Stable Yard. + +15. Marlborough-house-street. + +16. St. James's Palace. + +17. Present Stable Yards. + +18. Duke of York's House. + +19. Late Carriage-road in the Park. + +20. New Carriage-road, recently the Northern Mall. + +21. The new Mall, now the Northern Mall. + + * * * * * + +INTENDED IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PARKS. + + +[Illustration: Intended Improvements in the Parks.] + + +22. A Splendid Triumphal Arch, in the front of the New Palace. + +23. The King's Palace, on the site of Buckingham House. + +24. Terrace behind the Palace; there is also a grand Terrace fronting +the gardens. + +25. Palace Garden, laid out in a picturesque style; including a line +sheet of ornamental water, with a carriage-way from an entrance at +Hyde Park Corner. + +26. The Green Park. + +27. The King's Stables, including those recently built, and others +which are in contemplation. + +28. James-street, leading from Buckingham Gate to Westminster, with +thirteen new houses fronting the Park. + +29. Stafford-row, with ten new houses, extending to the Gun Tavern, +and continuing to Ward's-row, from whence Arabella-row runs, at the +side of the King's Stable. + +A road extends from Great George-street, Westminster, through +Bird-cage walk, to Grosvenor-place, for private carriages, on the side +of which, marked 5 in the plan, (in front of the present barracks,) a +row of new houses will be erected. + +The present Guard house at Buckingham Gate will be removed, and a new +Guard house erected close to the wall of the new stables in +James-street. + +There may, perhaps, be some alteration in the distribution of the +interior of the Park, as to the form of the paths; but the water will +assume, as nearly as possible, the present shape, and the public will +have access to the whole of the Park. + +Lamentations long and loud have been poured forth on the late +neglected state of St. James's Park. An intelligent home tourist in +1813, says, "It concerned me to observe that this park presents at +this time a neglected appearance, unworthy of a metropolitan royal +park, adjoining to the constant residence of the court." He goes on to +say, "My heart ached, and the tears started from my eyes as I brought +to mind the crowds of beauty, rank, and fashion, which till within +these few years used to be displayed in the centre mall on evenings +during the spring and summer. Here used to promenade, for one or two +hours after dinner, the whole British world of gaiety, beauty, and +splendour! Here could be seen in one moving mass, extending the whole +length of the mall 10,000 of the most lovely women, in this country of +female beauty, all splendidly attired, and accompanied by as many +well-dressed men. The present promenades in Hyde-Park lose the effect +produced by rank and distinguished character, owing to those classes +being shut up in their carriages." Another writer, speaking of the +park in Charles's time, with its Dorimants, Millamours, and +Millamants, says, "every thing around breathes of beauty and gaiety, +the air is courtly, silks are rustling, and feathers fluttering in the +mall; fair forms are hovering, and bright eyes glancing round; at +every turn you encounter lords and beauties." In the "neglected state" +we have long concurred; and we sympathize with our tourist in his +other lament; for the former we have a remedy at last, and it affords +us pleasure to know that the first of these tourists possesses health +and vigour to watch the progress of the _improvements in the parks_; +and we hope that he may live many years to enjoy their completion. But +for the second evil, we fear there is no remedy, since the disease is +mortal to social happiness; unless that the proffered improvements may +once more reinstate the Montpellier promenades of the park in +fashion's favour. Editors are, however, very subordinate personages, +when + + ----Fashion so directs, and moderns raise + On fashion's mould'ring base their transient praise. + +Be this as it may, _we_, who are so _un_fashionable as to be +occasional promenaders in the parks, rejoice to present our readers +with the annexed plan of the improvements now in progress in St. +James's Park, and in conjunction with the palace works they denote the +simultaneous study of the happiness of the sovereign and the subject. +Our country readers, surrounded by all the blooming attributes of +health, will doubtless congratulate such important improvements of +what has been termed "the lungs of the metropolis." + +The annexed plan is reduced from the engraving which accompanied the +Treasury Minute, January 19, 1827; from which the following are +extracts:-- + + "The Earl of Liverpool and the Chancellor of the Exchequer lay before + the Board a plan for building on the North and South sides of St. + James's Park, (in addition to the buildings already sanctioned upon + the site of Carlton Gardens;) and also for making some considerable + alterations in the distribution of the intermediate ground, whereby + the appearance of the park would be much improved, while a very + material accommodation would be afforded to the public. + + "They state, that they have received the King's commands to convey to + the Board his Majesty's most gracious approbation of this proposal, + and his pleasure that the necessary steps should be taken, with as + little delay as possible, for carrying the measure into execution, so + far as it respects the South side of the park, and the alteration of + the ground comprised in it. + + "My Lords perceive, that by this plan the whole of the space in St. + James's Park, now laid out in grass, and from which the public are + excluded, will be thrown open (with the exception of the parts to be + planted) for the use of persons on foot." + +The magnificent range of buildings intended to occupy the site of +Carlton-house and gardens, and to extend from Spring Garden, Charing +Cross on the _east_, to the Ordnance office, in Pall Mall, on the +_west_, is already commenced in the last mentioned quarter. The +substructure is a terrace, (containing the domestic offices,) of about +53 feet wide--its architecture of the Paestum Doric order surmounted +by a balustrade. The order of the superstructure is Corinthian. In the +centre of the range will be a fountain formed of the eight columns of +the portico of Carlton-house, with eight additional columns on the +same model. The basement story of all the houses is to be supplied +with water by the overflow of this fountain and jets. + + * * * * * + + +Our _third_ Engraving represents the Grand Lodge Entrance to the New +Palace, and resembles the arch in the front of the palace. The frieze +of this gateway or arch, which is said to possess great merit, is +still in the course of execution. Altogether this structure may be +expected to form an approach of suitable splendour to the royal +domain, whilst it bids fair to rank among the most interesting of the +modern architectural embellishments of the metropolis. + + * * * * * + + +Such is an outline of the improvements now in progress in St. James's +Park and its vicinity. The palace may have fallen short of some +expectations, but with all its imperfections, it will, when completed, +be a pile of immense magnitude, with much of the grandeur and +magnificence appertaining to regal splendour. His majesty will reside +there when in his capital, and it is not an indifferent trait to +observe, that it will not be altogether strange to his eyes; for every +mantle and movable piece of Carlton palace, which can be used in the +palace in St. James's Park, has been, or is about to be, removed +thither. Meanwhile, the recreation of the people is not unstudied in +the new arrangements of the park; indeed, it appears to be with their +illustrious originator a primary consideration, as will be seen on +reference to the treasury minute. Hence all loyal and grateful +subjects may join in the song of olden time: + + God prosper long our noble king, + Our lives and safeties all. + + + * * * * * + + + + +Arcana of Science. + + * * * * * + +CAPTAIN PARRY'S EXPEDITION. + +(_Abridged from the Literary Gazette._) + + +On Saturday, September 29th, Captain Parry from his Arctic, and +Captain Franklin from his North-American expedition, arrived at the +Admiralty within half an hour of each other![3] + +Captain Parry may himself be taken as a specimen of the health of his +crew; he looks as well as when he set out on his bold undertaking. + +The sum of the intelligence which has transpired is, that the Hecla +having arrived at Hamerfest, took in the rein-deer for dragging the +boats, snow-shoes, &c. for the journey over the ice. Having reached +the coast of Spitzbergen, a heavy gale drove the ship among packed +ice, where she was entangled for several weeks, to the 6th of June. +Here the first effort to proceed in the manner projected was tried on +two boats commanded by Captain Parry and Lieut. Ross; but the ice +broke up, and it was speedily relinquished. The Hecla then wrought to +the north as far as Seven Islands, where finding no harbour, she put +back. By the 19th of June, however, having cut through a formidable +barrier, to the Wratskel of Van Henloopen, a second attempt to get +forward in the ice-boats was strenuously made. Unfortunately the ice +was what is called rotten, and so irregular as to render success +impossible. Nothing could exceed the fatigues and difficulties of +transport; the boats had to be loaded and unloaded many times in the +course of a few hours; and no field-ice was met with, to any extent, +over which they might glide on their way. The party at last attained +the latitude of 82 deg., and three quarters N.; or to between four and +five hundred miles of the Pole. Heavy rains prevailed, and the ice +over which they were travelling so laboriously towards the north, was +itself drifting more rapidly to the south than the distances which +they could accomplish. Thus, the last three days having been spent in +this disheartening and fruitless toil,--half the provisions being +exhausted,--some of the men falling sick, and being reported unfit for +exertion,--the scurvy threatening them,--and no hope of any favourable +change remaining--our brave countrymen were compelled to abandon their +impracticable design. They accordingly returned to the Hecla, and on +the 24th of September put into Longhope, in the Orkneys, without +having experienced any loss by death. The whole period occupied in +these exertions on the ice is stated to have been sixty-one days. + +The highest latitude to which the Hecla reached was 81 deg. 6 min. +believed to be the farthest north that ever a ship made her way; so +that all that was made in the boats was 1 deg. 39 min. At the farthest +point north, no barrier of ice was seen, so that the idea of such a +barrier always existing may now be dismissed. The ice found by the +present expedition was of a very chaotic form. For about a mile, +perhaps, it might be tolerably smooth; but at every interval huge +ridges were crushed up by the action of tides and currents. No sooner +was this obstacle over, and one of these rugged and precipitous masses +overcome, than another appeared. There was plenty of fresh water on +the surface, but towards the end of the attempt, when the rains fell, +the ridges separated, and between them the salt sea flowed like so +many canals. It was found impossible to make any use of the rein-deer +in dragging the boats; and as there were no means of feeding dogs (as +once proposed,) the whole work was performed by personal labour. +Officers and men, twenty-eight in number, were alike harnessed to the +tackle, and wrought in common at the exhausting toil. Their time for +stalling in the _morning_ (their morning being the beginning of the +_night_,) was chosen when the light was least injurious to the eyes; +for though the sun shone upon them during the whole period, and there +was no darkness, yet when that luminary was lowest in the horizon, the +reflection from the bright white surface of snow was more endurable. +They could not, however, bear up under the fatigue. During their whole +march they were soaking wet to the knees, and benumbed by a +temperature always at or near the freezing point. At the close of +twelve or fourteen hours thus occupied, when they came to seek rest by +lying down, the change of their wet for dry stockings and fur boots +caused such a reaction, that the tingling and smart were insufferable. + +When Captain Parry found that the men could not support their toils on +the allowance, (of about nineteen ounces per twenty-four hours, of +pemecan and biscuit-powder.) he added, by way of luxury, a pint of hot +water at night. This was found to be very restorative, warming the +system; and if a little of the dinner food had been saved, it made a +broth of great relish and value. Spirits were not drank; and the +reason why even hot water was scarce, was, that it took so large a +stock of their spirits of wine to boil it and the cocoa, that the +quantity consumed could not safely be increased. + +The ice itself was drifting faster to the south than they could make +their way over it to the north: thus, during the last three days of +their struggle, instead of gaining a higher latitude, they were +actually two miles farther south than when they set out. This put an +end to the expedition where everything which human energy and +perseverance could do, was done so fruitlessly. + +While the boats were away, the Hecla was not exempt from dangers. She +had been wrought into a snug birth near the shore. A-head there were +about three miles of ice; and a heavy gale coming on, detached this +prodigious mass, and drove it with terrible violence against the ship. +The cables were cut asunder, the anchors lost, and the poor Hecla +forced high and dry upon the coast, by the irresistible pressure. +Having got her again to the water, however, they proceeded to Weygatt +Straits. + +It is vexatious to be forced to the conviction that any attempt to +reach the North Pole is but too likely to end in disappointment; but +every fresh enterprise seems to lead to this conclusion. + +Hudson, whose name is perpetuated in the bay, reached lat. 82 (as is +laid down) in the year 1606; and a Scottish journal states, that the +Neptune whaler, in 1816, got as high as 83 deg. 20 min.; but of the +accuracy of this statement we have great doubts. + +_The Land Arctic Expedition._--About the end of June, 1826, Captain +Franklin arrived at the last of the Hudson Bay company's posts, named +Fort Good Hope, in lat. 67 deg. 28 min. N., long. 130 deg. 53 min. W.; +with the expedition under his command in excellent health and spirits. + +Three days' journey from thence, on the 4th of July, he despatched a +party to the eastward, under the command of Dr. Richardson, and +proceeded himself, in command of another party, by the western channel +of Mackenzie's river, which flows at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, +and completed a survey of the coast from long. 113 deg. W. to 149 deg. +38 min. W. He was much impeded in his progress by the constant +obstruction of ice, unbroken from the shore, in many parts, until the +4th of August--by the prevalence of fogs--and by the nature of the sea +coast, which to the westward of the 140th degree is so extremely low +and flat as to be unapproachable, even in boats, nearer than two or +three miles. Indeed, beyond the 139th degree it was found impossible +to land on the main shore, except at one point; and there they were +most vexatiously detained eight days, in the best part of the season, +by fog. + +Before Captain Franklin had reached more than half way to Icy Cape, +most of his party shewed symptoms of extreme suffering, from their +unavoidable exposure to wading in the water, for the purpose of dragging +the boats where they landed to rest or to get fresh water, or +when compelled by gales to seek the shore. The temperature of the water +was generally about the freezing-point, whilst that of the air seldom +exceeded 36 degrees. The coast westward of Mackenzie's river, under +any circumstances, was extremely hazardous to navigate; but under the +difficulties which Captain Franklin experienced, further perseverance on +his part would have been unpardonable rashness. The whole party being +of opinion that the obstructions were insurmountable, were compelled to +return, in the conviction, however, that the navigation of the northwest +passage is open. + +The eastern party, under Dr. Richardson, who was accompanied by Mr. +Kendall, an intelligent young officer, succeeded in reaching the +Coppermine river on the 8th of August, and returned to Fort Franklin, +Great Bear Lake, on the 1st of September. Like that under the command +of Captain Franklin, they experienced repeated obstructions from ice, +and occasionally from strong breezes; but they were spared the foggy +weather, except on parts of two days. + +The object of Dr. Richardson's party was to examine the intermediate +coast between the Mackenzie and the coppermine rivers. After +separating from Captain Franklin, on the 4th of July, they pursued the +easternmost channel of the Mackenzie, until the 7th of that month, +when finding that it distributed itself by various outlets, of which +the more easterly were not navigable, for their boats, they chose a +middle one, and that night got into brackish water, with an open view +of the sea, in lat. 69 deg. 29 min. N., long. 133 deg. 24 min. W. + +On the 11th, in lat. 69 deg. 42 min. N., long. 132 deg. 10 min. W., +the water was perfectly salt, the sea partially covered with drift +ice, and no land visible to seaward. They experienced considerable +difficulty in crossing the estuaries of several rivers, which were +deemed to be outlets of the shallow channels of the Mackenzie, that +had been left to the eastward. They suffered, besides, some detention +from ice and bad weather; and it was not until the 18th of July that, +in lat. 70 deg. 37 min., long. 126 deg. 52 min. N., they got entirely +clear of the widely spreading mouths of the Mackenzie, and of a large +lake of brackish water, which seems to receive one of the branches of +that river. The navigation across these wide estuaries was very +embarrassing. + +This danger was gladly exchanged for a coasting voyage in the open +sea. They rounded Cape Parry, in lat. 70 deg. 8 min. N., long. 123 +deg. W.; Cape Krusenstern in lat. 60 deg. 46 min. N., long. 114 deg. +45 min. W.; and entered George the IVth Coronation Gulf, by the +Dolphin and Union Straits (so named after the boats), which brought +them within sight of Cape Barrow, and two degrees of longitude to the +eastward of the coppermine river. Their sea voyage terminated as +beforementioned, on the 8th of August, by their actually entering that +river. + +Although they saw much heavy floe ice, some of it aground even in nine +fathom water, yet none of it bore marks of being more than one season +old; and from the heights of land they could discern lanes of open +water outside,--so that a ship, properly strengthened for such a +voyage, could make way through it with a favouring breeze. + +Throughout the whole line of coast they had regular tides, the flood +setting from the eastward; the rise and fall being from a foot to +twenty inches. In the Dolphin and Union Straits, the current in the +height of flood and ebb exceeded two miles an hour. They found drift +timber everywhere, and a large portion of it, on many parts of the +coast, lay in a line from ten to fifteen, and in some places upwards +of twenty feet, above the ordinary spring-tide water-mark, apparently +thrown up by a heavy sea. + +After the first rapid, in the coppermine river, Dr. Richardson's party +abandoned the boats, with the remainder of their cargoes of provision, +iron-work, beads, &c. to the first party of Esquimaux which should +chance to pass that way; and on the 10th of August set out by land, +with ten days' provisions. + +They reached the eastern end of Bear Lake, at the influx of Dease's +river, on the 18th, and remained there until the evening of the 24th, +before the boats arrived to convey them to Fort Franklin. + +The person to whom the boats were entrusted, and who was sent off to +Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, did not arrive on the latest day +appointed for his appearance (the 20th), from a belief that Dr. +Richardson's party would never return, and that he should make a +needless voyage: and after the 20th Dr. Richardson was obliged to +distribute his party into hunting and fishing groups, to procure +subsistence. Dr. Richardson collected his party for embarkation on the +evening of the 28th; and they reached the fort, after an absence from +it of seventy-one days, the whole party in perfect health. + + [3] In the facetious poem entitled _May Fair_, in speaking of Captain + Parry's undertaking, and predicting its probable want of success, + the following prophetic couplet appears:-- + + "Quarter-day you'll have him back, + With his volume in his pack;" + + And lo! on quarter-day, the 29th of September, did Captain Parry + make his appearance at the Admiralty!! + + + * * * * * + +_Printed and Published by J. Limbird, 143, Strand, (near Somerset +House,) and sold by all Newsmen and Booksellers._ + + * * * * * + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11375 *** |