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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:36:06 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:36:06 -0700
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type"
+ content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of
+ The Discovery of Yellowstone Park,
+ by Nathaniel Pitt Langford.
+</title>
+<style type="text/css">
+ <!--
+ * { font-family: Times;}
+ P { text-indent: 1em;
+ margin: 10%;
+ margin-top: .75em;
+ font-size: 14pt;
+ text-align: justify;
+ margin-bottom: .75em; }
+ H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; }
+ HR { width: 33%; }
+ PRE { font-family: Times; font-size: 14pt;}
+ // -->
+</style>
+</head>
+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11145 ***</div>
+
+<h1>THE DISCOVERY OF YELLOWSTONE PARK</h1>
+<center>
+<i>Journal of the Washburn Expedition to the Yellowstone and Firehole
+Rivers in the Year 1870</i>
+</center><br>
+
+<h2>by Nathaniel Pitt Langford</h2>
+
+<br><br><br>
+
+
+<h3>1905</h3>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+
+<br><br><br>
+<a name="TOC"><!-- TOC --></a>
+<h2>
+ CONTENTS
+</h2>
+
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<p>Foreword (not included)</p>
+<p><a href="#INT">Introduction</a></p>
+<p><a href="#RULE4_1">Journal</a></p>
+<p><a href="#APX">Appendix</a></p>
+<p>Index (not included)</p>
+
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<a name="INT"><!-- INT --></a>
+<h2>
+ INTRODUCTION
+</h2>
+
+<p>
+When the rumored discovery in the year 1861 of extensive gold placers on
+Salmon river was confirmed, the intelligence spread through the states
+like wild fire. Hundreds of men with dependent families, who had been
+thrown out of employment by the depressed industrial condition of the
+country and by the Civil War, and still others actuated by a thirst for
+gain, utilized their available resources in providing means for an
+immediate migration to the land of promise. Before midsummer they had
+started on the long and perilous journey. How little did they know of
+its exposures! The deserts, destitute of water and grass, the alkaline
+plains where food and drink were alike affected by the poisonous dust,
+the roving bands of hostile Indians, the treacherous quicksands of river
+fords, the danger and difficulty of the mountain passes, the death of
+their companions, their cattle and their horses, breakage of their
+vehicles, angry and often violent personal altercations&mdash;all these fled
+in the light of the summer sun, the vernal beauty of the plains and the
+delightfully pure atmosphere which wooed them day by day farther away
+from the abode of civilization and the protection of law. The most
+fortunate of this army of adventurers suffered from some of these
+fruitful causes of disaster. So certain were they to occur in some form
+that a successful completion of the journey was simply an escape from
+death. The story of the Indian murders and cruelties alone, which befell
+hundreds of these hapless emigrants, would fill volumes. Every mile of
+the several routes across the continent was marked by the decaying
+carcasses of oxen and horses, which had perished during the period of
+this hegira to the gold mines. Three months with mules and four with
+oxen were necessary to make the journey&mdash;a journey now completed in five
+days from ocean to ocean by the railroad. Some of these expeditions,
+after entering the unexplored region which afterwards became Montana,
+were arrested by the information that it would be impossible to cross
+with wagon teams the several mountain ranges between them and the mines.
+</p>
+<p>
+In the summer of 1862 a company of 130 persons left St. Paul for the
+Salmon river mines. This Northern overland expedition was confided to
+the leadership of Captain James L. Fisk, whose previous frontier
+experience and unquestionable personal courage admirably fitted him for
+the command of an expedition which owed so much of its final success, as
+well as its safety during a hazardous journey through a region occupied
+by hostile Indians, to the vigilance and discipline of its commanding
+officer. E.H. Burritt was first assistant, the writer was second
+assistant and commissary, and Samuel R. Bond was secretary. Among those
+who were selected for guard duty were David E. Folsom, Patrick Doherty
+(Baptiste), Robert C. Knox, Patrick Bray, Cornelius Bray, Ard Godfrey,
+and many other well known pioneers of Montana. We started with ox teams
+on this journey on the 16th day of June, traveling by the way of Fort
+Abercrombie, old Fort Union, Milk river and Fort Benton, bridging all
+the streams not fordable on the entire route. Fort Union and Fort
+Benton were not United States military forts, but were the old trading
+posts of the American Fur Company.
+</p>
+<p>
+This Northern overland route of over 1,600 miles, lay for most of the
+distance through a partially explored region, filled with numerous bands
+of the hostile Sioux Indians. It was the year of the Sioux Indian
+massacre in Minnesota. After a continuous journey of upwards of eighteen
+weeks we reached Grasshopper creek near the head of the Missouri on the
+23d day of October, with our supply of provisions nearly exhausted, and
+with cattle sore-footed and too much worn out to continue the journey.
+There we camped for the winter in the midst of the wilderness, 400 miles
+from the nearest settlement or postoffice, from which we were separated
+by a region of mountainous country, rendered nearly impassable in the
+winter by deep snows, and beset for the entire distance by hostile
+Indians. Disheartening as the prospect was, we felt that it would not do
+to give way to discouragement. A few venturesome prospectors from the
+west side of the Rocky Mountains had found gold in small quantities on
+the bars bordering the stream, and a few traders had followed in their
+wake with a limited supply of the bare necessaries of life, risking the
+dangers of Indian attack by the way to obtain large profits as a
+rightful reward for their temerity. Flour was worth 75 cents per pound
+in greenbacks, and prices of other commodities were in like proportion,
+and the placer unpromising; and many of the unemployed started out, some
+on foot, and some bestride their worn-out animals, into the bleak
+mountain wilderness, in search of gold. With the certainty of death in
+its most horrid form if they fell into the hands of a band of prowling
+Blackfeet Indians, and the thought uppermost in their minds that they
+could scarcely escape freezing, surely the hope which sustained this
+little band of wanderers lacked none of those grand elements which
+sustained the early settlers of our country in their days of disaster
+and suffering. Men who cavil with Providence and attribute to luck or
+chance or accident the escape from massacre and starvation of a company
+of destitute men, under circumstances like these, are either wanting in
+gratitude or have never been overtaken by calamity. My recollection of
+those gloomy days is all the more vivid because I was among the indigent
+ones.
+</p>
+<p>
+This region was then the rendezvous of the Bannack Indians, and we named
+the settlement "Bannack," not the Scotch name "Bannock," now often given
+to it.
+</p>
+<p>
+Montana was organized as a territory on the 26th day of May, 1864, and I
+continued to reside in that territory until the year 1876, being engaged
+chiefly in official business of a character which made it necessary,
+from time to time, for me to visit all portions of the territory. It is
+a beautiful country. Nature displays her wonders there upon the most
+magnificent scale. Lofty ranges of mountains, broad and fertile valleys,
+streams broken into torrents are the scenery of every-day life. These
+are rendered enjoyable by clear skies, pure atmosphere and invigorating
+climate.
+</p>
+<p>
+Ever since the first year of my residence there I had frequently heard
+rumors of the existence of wonderful phenomena in the region where the
+Yellowstone, Wind, Snake and other large rivers take their rise, and as
+often had determined to improve the first opportunity to visit and
+explore it, but had been deterred by the presence of unusual and
+insurmountable dangers. It was at that time inhabited only by wild
+beasts and roving bands of hostile Indians. An occasional trapper or old
+mountaineer were the only white persons who had ever seen even those
+portions of it nearest to civilization, previous to the visit of David
+E. Folsom and C.W. Cook in the year 1869. Of these some had seen one,
+some another object of interest; but as they were all believed to be
+romancers their stories were received with great distrust.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/209.jpg" width="300" height="487"
+alt="James Bridger.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The old mountaineers of Montana were generally regarded as great
+fabricators. I have met with many, but never one who was not fond of
+practicing upon the credulity of those who listened to the recital of
+his adventures. James Bridger, the discoverer of Great Salt lake, who
+had a large experience in wild mountain life, wove so much of romance
+around his Indian adventures that his narrations were generally received
+with many grains of allowance by his listeners. Probably no man ever had
+a more varied and interesting experience during a long period of
+sojourning on the western plains and in the Rocky Mountains than
+Bridger, and he did not hesitate, if a favorable occasion offered, to
+"guy" the unsophisticated. At one time when in camp near "Pumpkin
+Butte," a well-known landmark near Fort Laramie, rising a thousand feet
+or more above the surrounding plain, a young attache of the party
+approached Mr. Bridger, and in a rather patronizing manner said: "Mr.
+Bridger, they tell me that you have lived a long time on these plains
+and in the mountains." Mr. Bridger, pointing toward "Pumpkin Butte,"
+replied: "Young man, you see that butte over there! Well, that mountain
+<i>was a hole in the ground</i> when I came here."
+</p>
+<p>
+Bridger's long sojourn in the Rocky Mountains commenced as early as the
+year 1820, and in 1832 we find him a resident partner in the Rocky
+Mountain Fur Company. He frequently spent periods of time varying from
+three months to two years, so far removed from any settlement or trading
+post, that neither flour nor bread stuffs in any form could be obtained,
+the only available substitute for bread being the various roots found in
+the Rocky Mountain region.
+</p>
+<p>
+I first became acquainted with Bridger in the year 1866. He was then
+employed by a wagon road company, of which I was president, to conduct
+the emigration from the states to Montana, by way of Fort Laramie, the
+Big Horn river and Emigrant gulch. He told me in Virginia City, Mont.,
+at that time, of the existence of hot spouting springs in the vicinity
+of the source of the Yellowstone and Madison rivers, and said that he
+had seen a column of water as large as his body, spout as high as the
+flag pole in Virginia City, which was about sixty (60) feet high. The
+more I pondered upon this statement, the more I was impressed with the
+probability of its truth. If he had told me of the existence of falls
+one thousand feet high, I should have considered his story an
+exaggeration of a phenomenon he had really beheld; but I did not think
+that his imagination was sufficiently fertile to originate the story of
+the existence of a spouting geyser, unless he had really seen one, and I
+therefore was inclined to give credence to his statement, and to believe
+that such a wonder did really exist.
+</p>
+<p>
+I was the more disposed to credit his statement, because of what I had
+previously read in the report of Captain John Mullan, made to the war
+department. From my present examination of that report, which was made
+Feb. 14, 1863, and a copy of which I still have in my possession, I find
+that Captain Mullan says:
+</p>
+
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+
+ I learned from the Indians, and afterwards confirmed by
+ my own explorations, the fact of the existence of an
+ infinite number of hot springs at the headwaters of the
+ Missouri, Columbia and Yellowstone rivers, and that hot
+ geysers, similar to those of California, exist at the head of
+ the Yellowstone.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+
+<p>
+Again he speaks of the isochimenal line (a line of even winter
+temperature), which he says reaches from Fort Laramie to the
+headwaters of the Yellowstone, at the hot spring and geysers of that
+stream, and continues thence to the Beaver Head valley, and he adds:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ This is as true as it is strange, and shows unerringly that
+ there exists in this zone an atmospheric river of heat,
+ flowing through this region, varying in width from one to
+ one hundred miles, according to the physical face of the
+ country.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-2"><!-- Image 2 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/210.jpg" width="300" height="438"
+alt="Very Much Yours D.G. Folsom">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+As early as the year 1866 I first considered the possibility of
+organizing an expedition for the purpose of exploring the Upper
+Yellowstone to its source. The first move which I made looking to this
+end was in 1867 and the next in 1868; but these efforts ended in nothing
+more than a general discussion of the subject of an exploration, the
+most potent factor in the abandonment of the enterprise being the
+threatened outbreaks of the Indians in Gallatin valley.
+</p>
+<p>
+The following year (1869) the project was again revived, and plans
+formed for an expedition; but again the hostility of the Indians
+prevented the accomplishment of our purpose of exploration. Hon. David
+E. Folsom was enrolled as one of the members of this expedition, and
+when it was found that no large party could be organized, Mr. Folsom and
+his partner, C.W. Cook, and Mr. Peterson (a helper on the Folsom ranch),
+in the face of the threatened dangers from Indians, visited the Grand
+Ca&ntilde;on, the falls of the Yellowstone and Yellowstone lake, and then
+turned in a northwesterly direction, emerging into the Lower Geyser
+basin, where they found a geyser in action, the water of which, says Mr.
+Folsom in his record of the expedition, "came rushing up and shot into
+the air at least eighty feet, causing us to stampede for higher ground."
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Folsom, in speaking of the various efforts made to organize an
+expedition for exploration of the Yellowstone says:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ In 1867, an exploring expedition from Virginia City,
+ Montana Territory, was talked of, but for some unknown
+ reason, probably for the want of a sufficient number to
+ engage in it, it was abandoned. The next year another was
+ planned, which ended like the first&mdash;in talk. Early in the
+ summer of 1869 the newspapers throughout the Territory
+ announced that a party of citizens from Helena, Virginia
+ City and Bozeman, accompanied by some of the officers
+ stationed at Fort Ellis, with an escort of soldiers, would
+ leave Bozeman about the fifth of September for the Yellowstone
+ country, with the intention of making a thorough
+ examination of all the wonders with which the region was
+ said to abound. The party was expected to be limited in
+ numbers and to be composed of some of the most prominent
+ men in the Territory, and the writer felt extremely flattered
+ when his earnest request to have his name added to
+ the list was granted. He joined with two personal friends
+ in getting an outfit, and then waited patiently for the other
+ members of the party to perfect their arrangements. About
+ a month before the day fixed for starting, some of the
+ members began to discover that pressing business engagements
+ would prevent their going. Then came news from
+ Fort Ellis that, owing to some changes made in the disposition
+ of troops stationed in the Territory, the military
+ portion of the party would be unable to join the expedition;
+ and our party, which had now dwindled down to ten
+ or twelve persons, thinking it would be unsafe for so small
+ a number to venture where there was a strong probability
+ of meeting with hostile Indians, also abandoned the undertaking.
+ But the writer and his two friends before mentioned,
+ believing that the dangers to be encountered had
+ been magnified, and trusting by vigilance and good luck to
+ avoid them, resolved to attempt the journey at all hazards.
+
+ We provided ourselves with five horses&mdash;three of them
+ for the saddle, and the other two for carrying our cooking
+ utensils, ammunition, fishing tackle, blankets and buffalo
+ robes, a pick, and a pan, a shovel, an axe, and provisions
+ necessary for a six weeks' trip. We were all well armed
+ with repeating rifles, Colt's six-shooters and sheath-knives,
+ and had besides a double barreled shotgun for small game.
+ We also had a good field glass, a pocket compass and a
+ thermometer.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-3"><!-- Image 3 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/211.jpg" width="300" height="423"
+alt="C.W. Cook">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Folsom followed the Yellowstone to the lake and crossed over to the
+Firehole, which he followed up as far as the Excelsior geyser (not then
+named), but did not visit the Upper Geyser basin. On his return to
+Helena he related to a few of his intimate friends many of the incidents
+of his journey, and Mr. Samuel T. Hauser and I invited him to meet a
+number of the citizens of Helena at the directors' room of the First
+National Bank in Helena; but on assembling there were so many present
+who were unknown to Mr. Folsom that he was unwilling to risk his
+reputation for veracity, by a full recital, in the presence of
+strangers, of the wonders he had seen. He said that he did not wish to
+be regarded as a liar by those who were unacquainted with his
+reputation. But the accounts which he gave to Hauser Gillette and myself
+renewed in us our determination to visit that region during the
+following year. Mr. Folsom, however, sent to the Western Monthly of
+Chicago a carefully prepared account of his expedition, which that
+magazine published in July, 1870, after cutting out some of the most
+interesting portions of the story, thus destroying in some measure the
+continuity of the narrative. The office of the Western Monthly was
+destroyed by fire before the copies of the magazine containing Mr.
+Folsom's article were distributed, and the single copy which Mr. Folsom
+possessed and which he presented to the Historical Society of Montana
+met a like fate in the great Helena fire. The copy which I possessed and
+which I afterwards presented to that Society is doubtless the only
+original copy now in existence; and, for the purpose of preserving the
+history of the initial step which eventuated in the creation of the
+Yellowstone National Park, I re-published, in the year 1894, 500 copies
+of Mr. Folsom's narrative, for distribution among those most interested
+in that exploration.
+</p>
+<p>
+In the spring of 1870, while in St. Paul, I had an interview with Major
+General Winfield S. Hancock, during which he showed great interest in
+the plan of exploration which I outlined to him, and expressed a desire
+to obtain additional information concerning the Yellowstone country
+which would be of service to him in the disposition of troops for
+frontier defense, and he assured me that, unless some unforeseen
+exigency prevented, he would, when the time arrived, give a favorable
+response to our application for a military escort, if one were needed.
+Mr. Hauser also had a conference with General Hancock about the same
+time, and received from him like assurances.
+</p>
+<p>
+About the 1st of August, 1870, our plans took definite shape, and some
+twenty men were enrolled as members of the exploring party. About this
+time the Crow Indians again "broke loose," and a raid of the Gallatin
+and Yellowstone valleys was threatened, and a majority of those who had
+enrolled their names, experiencing that decline of courage so aptly
+illustrated by Bob Acres, suddenly found excuse for withdrawal in
+various emergent occupations.
+</p>
+<p>
+After a few days of suspense and doubt, Samuel T. Hauser told me that if
+he could find two men whom he knew, who would accompany him, he would
+attempt the journey; and he asked me to join him in a letter to James
+Stuart, living at Deer Lodge, proposing that he should go with us.
+Benjamin Stickney, one of the most enthusiastic of our number, also
+wrote to Mr. Stuart that there were eight persons who would go at all
+hazards and asked him (Stuart) to be a member of the party. Stuart
+replied to Hauser and myself as follows:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ Deer Lodge City, M.T., Aug. 9th, 1870.
+
+ Dear Sam and Langford:
+
+ Stickney wrote me that the Yellow Stone party had
+ dwindled down to eight persons. That is not enough to
+ stand guard, and I won't go into that country without having
+ a guard every night. From present news it is probable
+ that the Crows will be scattered on all the headwaters of
+ the Yellow Stone, and if that is the case, they would not
+ want any better fun than to clean up a party of eight (that
+ does not stand guard) and say that the Sioux did it, as they
+ said when they went through us on the Big Horn. It will
+ not be safe to go into that country with less than fifteen
+ men, and not very safe with that number. I would like it
+ better if it was fight from the start; we would then kill
+ every Crow that we saw, and take the chances of their
+ rubbing us out. As it is, we will have to let them alone
+ until they will get the best of us by stealing our horses or
+ killing some of us; then we will be so crippled that we
+ can't do them any damage.
+
+ At the commencement of this letter I said I would not
+ go unless the party stood guard. I will take that back, for
+ I am just d&mdash;&mdash;d fool enough to go anywhere that anybody
+ else is willing to go, only I want it understood that very
+ likely some of us will lose our hair. I will be on hand Sunday
+ evening, unless I hear that the trip is postponed.
+
+ Fraternally yours,
+
+ JAS. STUART.
+
+ Since writing the above, I have received a telegram saying,
+ "twelve of us going certain." Glad to hear it&mdash;the
+ more the better. Will bring two pack horses and one pack
+ saddle.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+I have preserved this letter of James Stuart for the thirty-five years
+since it was received. It was written with a lead pencil on both sides
+of a sheet of paper, and I insert here a photograph of a half-tone
+reproduction of it. It has become somewhat illegible and obscure from
+repeated folding and unfolding.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-4"><!-- Image 4 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/238.jpg" width="450" height="647"
+alt="A Letter.">
+</center>
+
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-5"><!-- Image 5 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/239.jpg" width="450" height="406"
+alt="A Letter, Continued.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Stuart was a man of large experience in such enterprises as that in
+which we were about to engage, and was familiar with all the tricks of
+Indian craft and sagacity; and our subsequent experience in meeting the
+Indians on the second day of our journey after leaving Fort Ellis, and
+their evident hostile intentions, justified in the fullest degree
+Stuart's apprehensions.
+</p>
+<p>
+About this time Gen. Henry D. Washburn, the surveyor general of Montana,
+joined with Mr. Hauser in a telegram to General Hancock, at St. Paul,
+requesting him to provide the promised escort of a company of cavalry.
+General Hancock immediately responded, and on August 14th telegraphed an
+order on the commandant at Fort Ellis, near Bozeman, for such escort as
+would be deemed necessary to insure the safety of our party.
+</p>
+<p>
+Just at this critical time I received a letter from Stuart announcing
+that he had been drawn as a juryman to serve at the term of court then
+about to open, and that as the federal judge declined to excuse him, he
+would not be able to join our party. This was a sore and discouraging
+disappointment both to Hauser and myself, for we felt that in case we
+had trouble with the Indians Stuart's services to the party would be
+worth those of half a dozen ordinary men.
+</p>
+<p>
+A new roster was made up, and I question if there was ever a body of men
+organized for an exploring expedition, more intelligent or more keenly
+alive to the risks to be encountered than those then enrolled; and it
+seems proper that I here speak more specifically of them.
+</p>
+<p>
+Gen. Henry D. Washburn was the surveyor general of Montana and had been
+brevetted a major general for services in the Civil War, and had served
+two terms in the Congress of the United States. Judge Cornelius Hedges
+was a distinguished and highly esteemed member of the Montana bar.
+Samuel T. Hauser was a civil engineer, and was president of the First
+National Bank of Helena. He was afterwards appointed governor of Montana
+by Grover Cleveland. Warren C. Gillette and Benjamin Stickney were
+pioneer merchants in Montana. Walter Trumbull was assistant assessor of
+internal revenue, and a son of United States Senator Lyman Trumbull of
+Illinois. Truman C. Everts was assessor of internal revenue for Montana,
+and Nathaniel P. Langford (the writer) had been for nearly five years
+the United States collector of internal revenue for Montana, and had
+been appointed governor of Montana by Andrew Johnson, but, owing to the
+imbroglio of the Senate with Johnson, his appointment was not confirmed.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-6"><!-- Image 6 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/212.jpg" width="300" height="467"
+alt="James Stuart.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+While we were disappointed in our expectation of having James Stuart
+for our commander and adviser, General Washburn was chosen captain of
+the party, and Mr. Stickney was appointed commissary and instructed to
+put up in proper form a supply of provisions sufficient for thirty (30)
+days, though we had contemplated a limit of twenty-five (25) days for
+our absence. Each man promptly paid to Mr. Stickney his share of the
+estimated expense. When all these preparations had been made, Jake Smith
+requested permission to be enrolled as a member of our company. Jake was
+constitutionally unfitted to be a member of such a party of exploration,
+where vigilance and alertness were essential to safety and success. He
+was too inconsequent and easy going to command our confidence or to be
+of much assistance. He seemed to think that his good-natured nonsense
+would always be a passport to favor and be accepted in the stead of real
+service, and in my association with him I was frequently reminded of the
+youth who announced in a newspaper advertisement that he was a poor but
+pious young man, who desired board in a family where there were small
+children, and where his Christian example would be considered a
+sufficient compensation. Jake did not share the view of the other
+members of our company, that in standing guard, the sentry should resist
+his inclination to slumber. Mr. Hedges, in his diary, published in
+Volume V. of the Montana Historical Society publications, on September
+13th, thus records an instance of insubordination in standing guard:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ Jake made a fuss about his turn, and Washburn stood
+ in his place.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+Now that this and like incidents of our journey are in the dim past, let
+us inscribe for his epitaph what was his own adopted motto while doing
+guard duty when menaced by the Indians on the Yellowstone:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "REQUIESCAT IN PACE."
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+Of our number, five&mdash;General Washburn, Walter Trumbull, Truman C.
+Everts, Jacob Smith and Lieutenant Doane&mdash;have died. The five members
+now surviving are Cornelius Hedges, Samuel T. Hauser, Warren C.
+Gillette, Benjamin Stickney and myself.
+</p>
+<p>
+I have not been able to ascertain the date of death of either Walter
+Trumbull or Jacob Smith. Lieutenant Doane died at Bozeman, Montana, May
+5, 1892. His report to the War Department of our exploration is a
+classic. Major Chittenden says:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ His fine descriptions have never been surpassed by any
+ subsequent writer. Although suffering intense physical torture
+ during the greater portion of the trip, it did not extinguish
+ in him the truly poetic ardor with which those
+ strange phenomena seem to have inspired him.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+Dr. Hayden, who first visited this region the year following that of our
+exploration, says of Lieutenant Doane's report:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ I venture to state as my opinion, that for graphic description
+ and thrilling interest, it has not been surpassed
+ by any official report made to our government since the
+ times of Lewis and Clark.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+Mr. Everts died at Hyattsville, Md., on the 16th day of February, 1901,
+at the age of eighty-five, survived by his daughter, Elizabeth Everts
+Verrill, and a young widow, and also a son nine years old, born when
+Everts was seventy-six years of age,&mdash;a living monument to bear
+testimony to that physical vigor and vitality which carried him through
+the "Thirty-seven days of peril," when he was lost from our party in
+the dense forest on the southwest shore of Yellowstone lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+General Washburn died on January 26, 1871, his death being doubtless
+hastened by the hardships and exposures of our journey, from which many
+of our party suffered in greater or less degree.
+</p>
+<p>
+In an eloquent eulogistic address delivered in Helena January 29, 1871,
+Judge Cornelius Hedges said concerning the naming of Mount Washburn:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ On the west bank of the Yellowstone, between Tower Fall
+ and Hell-broth springs, opposite the profoundest chasm
+ of that marvelous river ca&ntilde;on, a mighty sentinel overlooking
+ that region of wonders, rises in its serene and solitary
+ grandeur,&mdash;Mount Washburn,&mdash;pointing the way his enfranchised
+ spirit was so soon to soar. He was the first to
+ climb its bare, bald summit, and thence reported to us the
+ welcome news that he saw the beautiful lake that had been
+ the proposed object of our journey. By unanimous voice,
+ unsolicited by him, we gave the mountain a name that
+ through coming years shall bear onward the memory of
+ our gallant, generous leader. How little we then thought
+ that he would be the first to live only in memory. * * *
+ The deep forests of evergreen pine that embosom that lake
+ shall typify the ever green spot in our memory where shall
+ cluster the pleasant recollections of our varied experiences
+ on that expedition.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+The question is frequently asked, "Who originated the plan of setting
+apart this region as a National Park?" I answer that Judge Cornelius
+Hedges of Helena wrote the first articles ever published by the press
+urging the dedication of this region as a park. The Helena Herald of
+Nov. 9, 1870, contains a letter of Mr. Hedges, in which he advocated the
+scheme, and in my lectures delivered in Washington and New York in
+January, 1871, I directed attention to Mr. Hedges' suggestion, and urged
+the passage by Congress of an act setting apart that region as a public
+park. All this was several months prior to the first exploration by the
+U.S. Geological Survey, in charge of Dr. Hayden. The suggestion that the
+region should be made into a National Park was first broached to the
+members of our party on September 19, 1870, by Mr. Hedges, while we were
+in camp at the confluence of the Firehole and Gibbon rivers, as is
+related in this diary. After the return home of our party, I was
+informed by General Washburn that on the eve of the departure of our
+expedition from Helena, David E. Folsom had suggested to him the
+desirability of creating a park at the grand ca&ntilde;on and falls of the
+Yellowstone. This fact was unknown to Mr. Hedges,&mdash;and the boundary
+lines of the proposed park were extended by him so as to be commensurate
+with the wider range of our explorations.
+</p>
+<p>
+The bill for the creation of the park was introduced in the House of
+Representatives by Hon. William H. Clagett, delegate from Montana
+Territory. On July 9, 1894, William R. Marshall, Secretary of the
+Minnesota Historical Society, wrote to Mr. Clagett, asking him the
+question: "Who are entitled to the principal credit for the passage of
+the act of Congress establishing the Yellowstone National Park?" Mr.
+Clagett replied as follows:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, July 14th, 1894.
+
+ Wm. R. Marshall,
+
+ Secretary Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul, Minn.
+
+ Dear Sir: Your favor of July 9th is just received. I
+ am glad that you have called my attention to the question,
+ "Who are entitled to the principal credit for the passage
+ of the act of Congress establishing the Yellowstone
+ National Park?" The history of that measure, as far as
+ known to me, is as follows, to-wit: In the fall of 1870,
+ soon after the return of the Washburn-Langford party,
+ two printers at Deer Lodge City, Montana, went into the
+ Firehole basin and cut a large number of poles, intending
+ to come back the next summer and fence in the tract of
+ land containing the principal geysers, and hold possession
+ for speculative purposes, as the Hutchins family so
+ long held the Yosemite valley. One of these men was
+ named Harry Norton. He subsequently wrote a book on
+ the park. The other one was named Brown. He now
+ lives in Spokane, Wash., and both of them in the summer
+ of 1871 worked in the New Northwest office at Deer Lodge.
+ When I learned from them in the late fall of 1870 or
+ spring of 1871 what they intended to do, I remonstrated
+ with them and stated that from the description given by
+ them and by members of Mr. Langford's party, the whole
+ region should be made into a National Park and no private
+ proprietorship be allowed.
+
+ I was elected Delegate to Congress from Montana in
+ August, 1871, and after the election, Nathaniel P. Langford,
+ Cornelius Hedges and myself had a consultation in
+ Helena, and agreed that every effort should be made to
+ establish the Park as soon as possible, and before any person
+ had got a serious foot-hold&mdash;Mr. McCartney, at the
+ Mammoth Hot Springs, being the only one who at that time
+ had any improvements made. In December, 1871, Mr. Langford
+ came to Washington and remained there for some
+ time, and we two counseled together about the Park project.
+ I drew the bill to establish the Park, and never knew
+ Professor Hayden in connection with that bill, except that
+ I requested Mr. Langford to get from him a description of
+ the boundaries of the proposed Park. There was some
+ delay in getting the description, and my recollection is
+ that Langford brought me the description after consultation
+ with Professor Hayden. I then filled the blank in the
+ bill with the description, and the bill passed both Houses
+ of Congress just as it was drawn and without any change
+ or amendment whatsoever.
+
+ After the bill was drawn, Langford stated to me that
+ Senator Pomeroy of Kansas was very anxious to have the
+ honor of introducing the bill in the Senate; and as he
+ (Pomeroy) was the chairman of the Senate committee on
+ Public Lands, in order to facilitate its passage, I had a
+ clean copy made of the bill and on the first call day in the
+ House, introduced the original there, and then went over
+ to the Senate Chamber and handed the copy to Senator
+ Pomeroy, who immediately introduced it in the Senate.
+ The bill passed the Senate first and came to the House,
+ and passed the House without amendment, at a time when
+ I happened to be at the other end of the Capitol, and hence
+ I was not present when it actually passed the House.
+
+ Since the passage of this bill there have been so many
+ men who have claimed the exclusive credit for its passage,
+ that I have lived for twenty years, suffering from a
+ chronic feeling of disgust whenever the subject was mentioned.
+ So far as my personal knowledge goes, the first
+ idea of making it a public park occurred to myself; but
+ from information received from Langford and others, it
+ has always been my opinion that Hedges, Langford, and
+ myself formed the same idea about the same time, and
+ we all three acted together in Montana, and afterwards
+ Langford and I acted with Professor Hayden in Washington,
+ in the winter of 1871-2.
+
+ The fact is that the matter was well under way before
+ Professor Hayden was ever heard of in connection with
+ that measure. When he returned to Washington in 1871,
+ he brought with him a large number of specimens from
+ different parts of the Park, which were on exhibition in
+ one of the rooms of the Capitol or in the Smithsonian Institute
+ (one or the other), while Congress was in session,
+ and he rendered valuable services, in exhibiting these specimens
+ and explaining the geological and other features of
+ the proposed Park, and between him, Langford and myself,
+ I believe there was not a single member of Congress
+ in either House who was not fully posted by one or the
+ other of us in personal interviews; so much so, that the
+ bill practically passed both Houses without objection.
+
+ It has always been a pleasure to me to give to Professor
+ Hayden and to Senator Pomeroy, and Mr. Dawes of Mass,
+ all of the credit which they deserve in connection with
+ the passage of that measure, but the truth of the matter
+ is that the origin of the movement which created the Park
+ was with Hedges, Langford and myself; and after Congress
+ met, Langford and I probably did two-thirds, if not
+ three-fourths of all the work connected with its passage.
+
+ I think that the foregoing letter contains a full statement
+ of what you wish, and I hope that you will be able
+ to correct, at least to some extent, the misconceptions
+ which the selfish vanity of some people has occasioned on
+ the subject.
+
+ Very truly yours,
+
+ Wm. H. Clagett.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-7"><!-- Image 7 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/213.jpg" width="300" height="431"
+alt="Wm. H. Clagett">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+It is true that Professor Hayden joined with Mr. Clagett and myself in
+working for the passage of the act of dedication, but no person can
+divide with Cornelius Hedges and David E. Folsom the honor of
+<i>originating the idea</i> of creating the Yellowstone Park.
+</p>
+<p>
+By direction of Major Hiram M. Chittenden there has been erected at the
+junction of the Firehole and Gibbon rivers a large slab upon which is
+inscribed the following legend:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ JUNCTION
+ OF THE
+ GIBBON AND FIREHOLE RIVERS,
+ FORMING THE MADISON FORK OF THE MISSOURI.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ ON THE POINT OF LAND BETWEEN THE TRIBUTARY STREAMS,
+ SEPTEMBER 19, 1870, THE CELEBRATED WASHBURN EXPEDITION,
+ WHICH FIRST MADE KNOWN TO THE WORLD THE WONDERS
+ OF THE YELLOWSTONE, WAS ENCAMPED, AND HERE WAS
+ FIRST SUGGESTED THE IDEA OF SETTING APART THIS REGION
+ AS A NATIONAL PARK.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+On the south bank of the Madison, just below the junction of these two
+streams, and overlooking this memorable camping ground, is a lofty
+escarpment to which has appropriately been given the name "National
+Park mountain."
+</p>
+<p>
+I take occasion here to refer to my personal connection with the Park.
+Upon the passage by Congress, on March 1, 1872, of the act of
+dedication, I was appointed superintendent of the Park. I discharged the
+duties of the office for more than five years, without compensation of
+any kind, and paying my own expenses. Soon after the creation of the
+Park the Secretary of the Interior received many applications for leases
+to run for a long term of years, of tracts of land in the vicinity of
+the principal marvels of that region, such as the Grand Ca&ntilde;on and Falls,
+the Upper Geyser basin, etc. These applications were invariably referred
+to me by the Assistant Secretary of the Interior, Hon. B.R. Cowen. It
+was apparent from an examination of these applications that the purpose
+of the applicants was to enclose with fences their holdings, and charge
+visitors an admission fee. To have permitted this would have defeated
+the purpose of the act of dedication. In many instances the applicants
+made earnest pleas, both personally and through their members in
+Congress, to the Interior Department and to myself for an approval of
+their applications, offering to speedily make improvements of a value
+ranging from $100,000 to $500,000. I invariably reported unfavorably
+upon these alluring propositions, and in no instance was my
+recommendation overruled by Secretary Cowen, to whom Secretary Delano
+had given the charge of the whole matter, and to Judge Cowen's firmness
+in resisting the political and other influences that were brought to
+bear is largely due the fact that these early applications for
+concessions were not granted. A time should never come when the American
+people will have forgotten the services, a generation ago, of Judge
+Cowen, in resisting the designs of unscrupulous men in their efforts to
+secure possession of the most important localities in the Park, nor
+the later services of George Bird Grinnell, William Hallett Phillips and
+U.S. Senator George Graham Vest, in the preservation of the wild game of
+the Park and of the Park itself from the more determined encroachments
+of private greed.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-8"><!-- Image 8 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/214.jpg" width="300" height="495"
+alt="Hiram M. Chittenden">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The second year of my services as superintendent, some of my friends in
+Congress proposed to give me a salary sufficiently large to pay actual
+expenses. I requested them to make no effort in this behalf, saying that
+I feared that some successful applicant for such a salaried position,
+giving little thought to the matter, would approve the applications for
+leases; and that as long as I could prevent the granting of any
+exclusive concessions I would be willing to serve as superintendent
+without compensation.
+</p>
+<p>
+Apropos of my official connection with the Park a third of a century
+ago, is the following letter to me, written by George Bird Grinnell.
+This personal tribute from one who himself has done so much in behalf of
+the Park was very gratifying to me.
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ New York, April 29th, 1903.
+
+ <i>Mr. N.P. Langford St. Paul, Minn</i>.,
+
+ Dear Sir: I am glad to read the newspaper cutting from
+ the Pioneer Press of April 19th, which you so kindly sent me.
+
+ In these days of hurry and bustle, when events of importance
+ crowd so fast on each other that the memory of each
+ is necessarily short lived, it is gratifying to be reminded
+ from time to time of important services rendered to the nation
+ in a past which, though really recent, seems to the
+ younger generation far away.
+
+ The service which you performed for the United States,
+ and indeed for the world, in describing the Yellowstone
+ Park, and in setting on foot and persistently advocating the
+ plan to make it a national pleasure ground, will always be
+ remembered; and it is well that public acknowledgment
+ should be made of it occasionally, so that the men of this
+ generation may not forget what they owe to those of the
+ past.
+
+ Yours very truly,
+
+ GEO. BIRD GRINNELL.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+The Act of Congress creating the Park provided that this region should
+be "set apart for a public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit and
+enjoyment of the people," but this end has not been accomplished except
+as the result of untiring vigilance and labor on the part of a very few
+persons who have never wavered in their loyalty to the Park. It may
+never be known how nearly the purposes of the Act of Dedication have
+escaped defeat; but a letter written to me by George Bird Grinnell and
+an editorial from <i>Forest and Stream</i> may reveal to visitors who now
+enjoy without let or hindrance the wonders of that region, how narrowly
+this "Temple of the living God," as it has been termed, has escaped
+desecration at the hands of avaricious money-getters, and becoming a
+"Den of Thieves."
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ New York, July 25, 1905.
+ <i>Mr. N.P. Langford</i>.
+
+ Dear Sir: I am very glad that your diary is to be published.
+ It is something that I have long hoped that we
+ might see.
+
+ It is true, as you say, that I have for a good many years
+ done what I could toward protecting the game in the Yellowstone
+ Park; but what seems to me more important than
+ that is that <i>Forest and Stream</i> for a dozen years carried on,
+ almost single handed, a fight for the integrity of the National
+ Park. If you remember, all through from 1881 or thereabouts
+ to 1890 continued efforts were being made to gain
+ control of the park by one syndicate and another, or to run
+ a railroad through it, or to put an elevator down the side
+ of the ca&ntilde;on&mdash;in short, to use this public pleasure ground
+ as a means for private gain. There were half a dozen of us
+ who, being very enthusiastic about the park, and, being in a
+ position to watch legislation at Washington, and also to
+ know what was going on in the Interior Department, kept
+ ourselves very much alive to the situation and succeeded in
+ choking off half a dozen of these projects before they grew
+ large enough to be made public.
+
+ One of these men was William Hallett Phillips, a dear
+ friend of mine, a resident of Washington, a Supreme Court
+ lawyer with a large acquaintance there, and a delightful
+ fellow. He was the best co-worker that any one could have
+ had who wanted to keep things straight and as they ought
+ to be.
+
+ At rare intervals I get out old volumes of the <i>Forest and
+ Stream</i> and look over the editorials written in those days
+ with a mingling of amusement and sadness as I recall how
+ excited we used to get, and think of the true fellows who
+ used to help, but who have since crossed over to the other
+ side.
+
+ Yours sincerely,
+
+ GEO. BIRD GRINNELL.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-9"><!-- Image 9 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/240.jpg" width="450" height="312"
+alt="National Park Mountain. at Junction of Firehole and Gibbon Rivers.">
+</center>
+
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-10"><!-- Image 10 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/241.jpg" width="300" height="538"
+alt="Geo. Bird Grinnell">
+</center>
+
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ From <i>Forest and Stream</i>, August 20, 1904.
+
+ SENATOR VEST AND THE NATIONAL PARK.
+
+ In no one of all the editorials and obituaries written last
+ week on the death of Senator Vest did we see mention made
+ of one great service performed by him for the American people,
+ and for which they and their descendants should always
+ remember him. It is a bit of ancient history now, and
+ largely forgotten by all except those who took an active part
+ in the fight. More than twenty years ago strong efforts were
+ made by a private corporation to secure a monopoly of the
+ Yellowstone National Park by obtaining from the government,
+ contracts giving them exclusive privileges within the
+ Park. This corporation secured an agreement from the Interior
+ Department by which six different plots in the Yellowstone
+ Park, each one covering about one section of land&mdash;a
+ square mile&mdash;were to be leased to it for a period of ten
+ years. It was also to have a monopoly of hotel, stage and
+ telegraph rights, and there was a privilege of renewal of the
+ concession at the end of the ten years. The rate to be paid
+ for the concession was $2 an acre.
+
+ When the question of this lease came before Congress, it
+ was referred to a sub-committee of the Committee on Territories,
+ of which Senator Vest was chairman. He investigated
+ the question, and in the report made on it used these
+ words: "Nothing but absolute necessity, however, should
+ permit the Great National Park to be used for money-making
+ by private persons, and, in our judgment, no such necessity
+ exists. The purpose to which this region, matchless in
+ wonders and grandeur, was dedicated&mdash;'a public park and a
+ pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people'&mdash;is
+ worthy the highest patriotism and statesmanship."
+
+ The persons interested in this lease came from many sections
+ of the country, and were ably represented by active
+ agents in Washington. The pressure brought to bear on
+ Congress was very great, and the more effectively applied,
+ since few men knew much about conditions in the Yellowstone
+ Park, or even where the Yellowstone Park was. But
+ pressure and influence could not move Senator Vest when
+ he knew he was right. He stood like a rock in Congress, resisting
+ this pressure, making a noble fight in behalf of the
+ interests of the people, and at last winning his battle. For
+ years the issue seemed doubtful, and for years it was true
+ that the sole hope of those who were devoted to the interests
+ of the Park, and who were fighting the battle of the public,
+ lay in Senator Vest. So after years of struggle the right
+ triumphed, and the contract intended to be made between
+ the Interior Department and the corporation was never consummated.
+
+ This long fight made evident the dangers to which the
+ Park was exposed, and showed the necessity of additional
+ legislation.
+
+ A bill to protect the Park was drawn by Senator Vest and
+ passed by Congress, and from that time on, until the day
+ of his retirement from public life, Senator Vest was ever a
+ firm and watchful guardian of the Yellowstone National
+ Park, showing in this matter, as in many others, "the highest
+ patriotism and statesmanship." For many years, from
+ 1882 to 1894, Senator Vest remained the chief defender of a
+ National possession that self-seeking persons in many parts
+ of the country were trying to use for their own profit.
+
+ If we were asked to mention the two men who did more
+ than any other two men to save the National Park for the
+ American people, we should name George Graham Vest and
+ William Hallett Phillips, co-workers in this good cause.
+ There were other men who helped them, but these two easily
+ stand foremost.
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/242.jpg" width="300" height="532"
+alt="W. Hallett Phillips">
+</center>
+
+<center>
+<img src="./images/243.jpg" width="300" height="437"
+alt="GEORGE GRAHAM VEST.">
+</center>
+<p>
+In the light of the present glorious development of the Park it can be
+said of each one who has taken part in the work of preserving for all
+time this great national pleasuring ground for the enjoyment of the
+American people, "He builded better than he knew."
+</p>
+<p>
+An amusing feature of the identity of my name with the Park was that my
+friends, with a play upon my initials, frequently addressed letters to
+me in the following style:
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-11"><!-- Image 11 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/42.png" width="300" height="97"
+alt="National Park Langford">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The fame of the Yellowstone National Park, combining the most extensive
+aggregation of wonders in the world&mdash;wonders unexcelled because nowhere
+else existing&mdash;is now world-wide. The "Wonderland" publications issued
+by the Northern Pacific Railway, prepared under the careful supervision
+of their author, Olin D. Wheeler, with their superb illustrations of the
+natural scenery of the park, and the illustrated volume, "The
+Yellowstone," by Major Hiram M. Chittenden, U.S. Engineers, under whose
+direction the roads and bridges throughout the Park are being
+constructed, have so confirmed the first accounts of these wonders that
+there remains now little of the incredulity with which the narrations of
+the members of our company were first received. The articles written by
+me on my return from the trip described in this diary, and published in
+Scribner's (now Century) Magazine for May and June, 1871, were regarded
+more as the amiable exaggerations of an enthusiastic Munchausen, who is
+disposed to tell the whole truth, and as much more as is necessary to
+make an undoubted sensation, than as the story of a sober,
+matter-of-fact observer who tells what he has seen with his own eyes,
+and exaggerates nothing. Dr. Holland, one of the editors of that
+magazine, sent to me a number of uncomplimentary criticisms of my
+article. One reviewer said: "This Langford must be the champion liar of
+the Northwest." Resting for a time under this imputation, I confess to a
+feeling of satisfaction in reading from a published letter, written
+later in the summer of 1871 from the Upper Geyser basin by a member of
+the U.S. Geological Survey, the words: "Langford did not dare tell
+one-half of what he saw."
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Charles T. Whitmell, of Cardiff, Wales, a distinguished scholar and
+astronomer, who has done much to bring to the notice of our English
+brothers the wonders of the Park&mdash;which he visited in 1883&mdash;in a lecture
+delivered before the Cardiff Naturalists' Society on Nov. 12, 1885,
+sought to impress upon the minds of his audience the full significance
+of the above characterization. He said: "This quite unique description
+means a great deal, I can assure you; for Western American lying is not
+to be measured by any of our puny European standards of untruthfulness."
+</p>
+<p>
+But the writings of Wheeler and others, running through a long series of
+years and covering an extended range of new discoveries, have vindicated
+the truthfulness of the early explorers, and even the stories of Bridger
+are not now regarded as exaggerations, and we no longer write for his
+epitaph,
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ Here LIES Bridger.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+As I recall the events of this exploration, made thirty-five years ago,
+it is a pleasure to bear testimony that there was never a more unselfish
+or generous company of men associated for such an expedition; and,
+notwithstanding the importance of our discoveries, in the honor of which
+each desired to have his just share, there was absolutely neither
+jealousy nor ungenerous rivalry, and the various magazine and newspaper
+articles first published clearly show how the members of our party were
+"In honor preferring one another."
+</p>
+<p>
+In reviewing my diary, preparatory to its publication, I have
+occasionally eliminated an expression that seemed to be too personal,&mdash;a
+sprinkling of pepper from the caster of my impatience,&mdash;and I have also
+here and there added an explanatory annotation or illustration. With
+this exception I here present the original notes just as they were
+penned under the inspiration of the overwhelming wonders which
+everywhere revealed themselves to our astonished vision; and as I again
+review and read the entries made in the field and around the campfire,
+in the journal that for nearly thirty years has been lost to my sight, I
+feel all the thrilling sensations of my first impressions, and with them
+is mingled the deep regret that our beloved Washburn did not live to see
+the triumphant accomplishment of what was dear to his heart, the setting
+apart at the headwaters of the Yellowstone, of a National "public park
+or pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people."
+</p>
+<center>
+NATHANIEL PITT LANGFORD.
+</center>
+<p>
+St. Paul, Minn., August 9, 1905.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-12"><!-- Image 12 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/215.jpg" width="450" height="562"
+alt="The Author">
+</center>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<a name="RULE4_1"><!-- RULE4 1 --></a>
+<h2>
+ JOURNAL
+</h2>
+
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, August 17, 1870</b>.&mdash;In accordance with the arrangements made
+last night, the different members of our party met at the agreed
+rendezvous&mdash;the office of General Washburn&mdash;at 9 o'clock a.m., to
+complete our arrangements for the journey and get under way. Our party
+consisted of Gen. Henry D. Washburn, Cornelius Hedges, Samuel T. Hauser,
+Warren C. Gillette, Benjamin Stickney, Truman C. Everts, Walter
+Trumbull, Jacob Smith and Nathaniel P. Langford. General Washburn has
+been chosen the leader of our party. For assistants we have Mr.&mdash;&mdash;
+Reynolds and Elwyn Bean, western slope packers, and two African boys as
+cooks. Each man has a saddle horse fully rigged with California saddle,
+cantinas, holsters, etc., and has furnished a pack horse for
+transportation of provisions, ammunition and blankets. There are but few
+of our party who are adepts in the art of packing, for verily it is an
+art acquired by long practice, and we look with admiration upon our
+packers as they "throw the rope" with such precision, and with great
+skill and rapidity tighten the cinch and gird the load securely upon the
+back of the broncho. Our ponies have not all been tried of late with the
+pack saddle, but most of them quietly submit to the loading. But now
+comes one that does not yield itself to the manipulations of the packer.
+He stands quiet till the pack saddle is adjusted, but the moment he
+feels the tightening of the cinch he asserts his independence of all
+restraint and commences bucking. This animal in question belongs to
+Gillette, who says that if he does not stand the pack he will use him
+for a saddle horse. If so, God save Gillette!
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-13"><!-- Image 13 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/216.jpg" width="450" height="366"
+alt="Packing a Recalcitrant Mule.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, August 18.</b>&mdash;I rode on ahead of the party from Mr. Hartzell's
+ranch, stopping at Radersburg for dinner and riding through a snow storm
+to Gallatin City, where I remained over night with Major Campbell.
+General Washburn thought that it would be well for some members of the
+company to have a conference, as early as possible, with the commanding
+officer at Fort Ellis, concerning an escort of soldiers. I also desired
+to confer with some of the members of the Bozeman Masonic Lodge
+concerning the lodge troubles; and it was for these reasons that I rode
+on to Bozeman in advance of the party.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-14"><!-- Image 14 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/217.jpg" width="450" height="363"
+alt="The Start. Prickly Pear Valley.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+<b>Friday, August 19</b>.&mdash;Rode over to the East Gallatin river with
+Lieutenants Batchelor and Wright, crossing at Blakeley's bridge and
+reaching Bozeman at 7 o'clock p.m.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, August 20</b>.&mdash;Spent the day at Bozeman and at Fort Ellis. I met
+the commanding officer, Major Baker, of the Second U.S. Cavalry, who
+informs me that nearly all the men of his command are in the field
+fighting the Indians. I informed him that we had an order for an escort
+of soldiers, and he said that the garrison was so weakened that he could
+not spare more than half a dozen men. I told him that six men added to
+our own roster would enable us to do good guard duty. The rest of the
+party and the pack train came into Bozeman at night.
+</p>
+<p>
+This evening I visited Gallatin Lodge No. 6, and after a full
+consultation with its principal officers and members, I reluctantly
+decided to exercise my prerogative as Grand Master and arrest the
+charter of the lodge as the only means of bringing to a close a grievous
+state of dissension. In justice to my own convictions of duty, I could
+not have adopted any milder remedy than the one I applied.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, August 21</b>.&mdash;We moved into camp about one-half mile from Fort
+Ellis on the East Gallatin. General Washburn presented the order of
+Major General Hancock (recommended by General Baird, Inspector General,
+as an important military necessity) for an escort. Major Baker repeated
+what he said to me yesterday, and he will detail for our service five
+soldiers under the command of a lieutenant, and we are satisfied.
+General Lester Willson entertained us at a bounteous supper last night.
+His wife is a charming musician.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Monday, August 22</b>.&mdash;We left Fort Ellis at 11 o'clock this forenoon with
+an escort consisting of five men under command of Lieut. Gustavus C.
+Doane of the Second U.S. Cavalry. Lieutenant Doane has kindly allowed me
+to copy the special order detailing him for this service. It is as
+follows:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ Headquarters Fort Ellis, Montana Territory,
+ August 21; 1870.
+
+ In accordance with instructions from Headquarters District
+ of Montana, Lieutenant G.C. Doane, Second Cavalry,
+ will proceed with one sergeant and four privates of Company
+ F. Second Cavalry, to escort the Surveyor General of
+ Montana to the falls and lakes of the Yellowstone, and
+ return. They will be supplied with thirty days' rations,
+ and one hundred rounds of ammunition per man. The
+ acting assistant quarter-master will furnish them with the
+ necessary transportation.
+
+ By order of Major Baker.
+
+ J.G. MacADAMS,
+ First Lieutenant Second Cavalry.
+ Acting Post Adjutant.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-15"><!-- Image 15 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/218.jpg" width="300" height="424"
+alt="Olin D. Wheeler.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The names of the soldiers are Sergeant William Baker and Privates John
+Williamson, George W. McConnell, William Leipler and Charles Moore. This
+number, added to our own company of nine, will give us fourteen men for
+guard duty, a sufficient number to maintain a guard of two at all times,
+with two reliefs each night, each man serving half of a night twice each
+week. Our entire number, including the packers and cooks, is nineteen
+(19).
+</p>
+<p>
+Along the trail, after leaving Fort Ellis, we found large quantities of
+the "service" berry, called by the Snake Indians "Tee-amp." Our ascent
+of the Belt range was somewhat irregular, leading us up several sharp
+acclivities, until we attained at the summit an elevation of nearly two
+thousand feet above the valley we had left. The scene from this point is
+excelled in grandeur only by extent and variety. An amphitheatre of
+mountains 200 miles in circumference, enclosing a valley nearly as large
+as the State of Rhode Island, with all its details of pinnacle, peak,
+dome, rock and river, is comprehended at a glance. In front of us at a
+distance of twenty miles, in sullen magnificence, rose the picturesque
+range of the Madison, with the insulated rock, Mount Washington, and the
+sharp pinnacle of Ward's Peak prominently in the foreground. Following
+the range to the right for the distance of twenty-five miles, the eye
+rests upon that singular depression where, formed by the confluent
+streams of the Madison, Jefferson and Gallatin, the mighty Missouri
+commences its meanderings to the Gulf. Far beyond these, in full blue
+outline, are defined the round knobs of the Boulder mountains,
+stretching away and imperceptibly commingling with the distant horizon.
+At the left, towering a thousand feet above the circumjacent ranges, are
+the glowering peaks of the Yellowstone, their summits half enveloped in
+clouds, or glittering with perpetual snow. At our feet, apparently
+within jumping distance, cleft centrally by its arrowy river, carpeted
+with verdure, is the magnificent valley of the Gallatin, like a rich
+emerald in its gorgeous mountain setting. Fascinating as was this scene
+we gave it but a glance, and turned our horses' heads towards the vast
+unknown. Descending the range to the east, we reached Trail creek, a
+tributary of the Yellowstone, about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, where we
+are now camped for the night. We are now fairly launched upon our
+expedition without the possibility of obtaining outside assistance in
+case we need it, and means for our protection have been fully considered
+since we camped, and our plans for guard duty throughout the trip have
+been arranged. Hedges is to be my comrade-in-arms in this service. He
+has expressed to me his great satisfaction that he is to be associated
+with me throughout the trip in this night guard duty, and I am
+especially pleased at being assigned to duty with so reliable a
+coadjutor as Hedges, a man who can be depended upon to neglect no duty.
+We two are to stand guard the first half of this first night&mdash;that is,
+until 1 o'clock to-morrow morning; then Washburn and Hauser take our
+places. Fresh Indian signs indicate that the red-skins are lurking near
+us, and justify the apprehensions expressed in the letter which Hauser
+and I received from James Stuart, that we will be attacked by the Crow
+Indians.[<a href="#note-A">A</a>] I am not entirely free from anxiety. Our safety will depend
+upon our vigilance. We are all well armed with long range repeating
+rifles and needle guns, though there are but few of our party who are
+experts at off-hand shooting with a revolver.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-16"><!-- Image 16 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/219.jpg" width="450" height="534"
+alt="Taking a Shot at Jake Smith's Hat.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+In the course of our discussion Jake Smith expressed his doubt whether
+any member of our party except Hauser (who is an expert pistol shot) is
+sufficiently skilled in the use of the revolver to hit an Indian at even
+a close range, and he offered to put the matter to a test by setting up
+his hat at a distance of twenty yards for the boys to shoot at with
+their revolvers, without a rest, at twenty-five cents a shot. While
+several members of our party were blazing away with indifferent
+success, with the result that Jake was adding to his exchequer without
+damage to his hat, I could not resist the inclination to quietly drop
+out of sight behind a clump of bushes, where from my place of
+concealment I sent from my breech-loading Ballard repeating rifle four
+bullets in rapid succession, through the hat, badly riddling it. Jake
+inquired, "Whose revolver is it that makes that loud report?" He did not
+discover the true state of the case, but removed the target with the
+ready acknowledgment that there were members of our party whose aim with
+a revolver was more accurate than he had thought. I think that I will
+make confession to him in a few days. I now wish that I had brought with
+me an extra hat. My own is not large enough for Jake's head.
+Notwithstanding the serious problems which we must deal with in making
+this journey, it is well to have a little amusement while we may.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, August 23</b>.&mdash;Last night was the first that we were on guard. The
+first relief was Hedges and Langford, the second Washburn and Hauser.
+Everything went well. At 8 a.m. to-day we broke camp. Some delay
+occurring in packing our horses, Lieutenant Doane and the escort went
+ahead, and we did not again see them until we reached our night camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+We traveled down Trail creek and over a spur of the mountain to the
+valley of the Yellowstone, which we followed up eight miles to our
+present camp. Along on our right in passing up the valley was a vast
+natural pile of basaltic rock, perpendicular, a part of which had been
+overthrown, showing transverse seams in the rock. Away at the right in
+the highest range bordering the valley was Pyramid mountain, itself a
+snow-capped peak; and further up the range was a long ridge covered with
+deep snow. As we passed Pyramid mountain a cloud descended upon it,
+casting its gloomy shadow over the adjacent peaks and bursting in a
+grand storm. These magnificent changes in mountain scenery occasioned by
+light and shade during one of these terrific tempests, with all the
+incidental accompaniments of thunder, lightning, rain, snow and hail,
+afford the most awe-inspiring exhibition in nature. As I write, another
+grand storm, which does not extend to our camp, has broken out on
+Emigrant peak, which at one moment is completely obscured in darkness;
+at the next, perhaps, brilliant with light; all its gorges, recesses,
+seams and ca&ntilde;ons illuminated; these fade away into dim twilight, broken
+by a terrific flash, and, echoing to successive peals,
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "* * * the rattling crags among
+ Leaps the live thunder" in innumerable reverberations.
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+On the left of the valley the foot hills were mottled with a carpet of
+beautiful, maroon-colored, delicately-tinted verdure, and towering above
+all rose peak on peak of the snow-capped mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+To-day we saw our first Indians as we descended into the valley of the
+Yellowstone. They came down from the east side of the valley, over the
+foot hills, to the edge of the plateau overlooking the bottom lands of
+the river, and there conspicuously displayed themselves for a time to
+engage our attention. As we passed by them up the valley they moved down
+to where their ponies were hobbled. Two of our party, Hauser and
+Stickney, had dropped behind and passed towards the north to get a shot
+at an antelope; and when they came up they reported that, while we were
+observing the Indians on the plateau across the river, there were one
+hundred or more of them watching us from behind a high butte as our
+pack-train passed up the valley. As soon as they observed Hauser and
+Stickney coming up nearly behind them, they wheeled their horses and
+disappeared down the other side of the butte.[<a href="#note-B">B</a>] This early admonition
+of our exposure to hostile attack, and liability to be robbed of
+everything, and compelled on foot and without provisions to retrace our
+steps, has been the subject of discussion in our camp to-night, and has
+renewed in our party the determination to abate nothing of our
+vigilance, and keep in a condition of constant preparation.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-17"><!-- Image 17 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/220.jpg" width="450" height="399"
+alt="On Guard. Valley of the Yellowstone.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+With our long-range rifles and plenty of ammunition, we can stand off
+200 or 300 of them, with their less efficient weapons, if we don't let
+them sneak up upon us in the night. If we encounter more than that
+number, then what? The odds will be against us that they will "rub us
+out," as Jim Stuart says.
+</p>
+<p>
+Jake Smith has sent the first demoralizing shot into the camp by
+announcing that he doesn't think there is any necessity for standing
+guard. Jake is the only one of our party who shows some sign of
+baldness, and he probably thinks that his own scalp is not worth the
+taking by the Indians.
+</p>
+<p>
+Did we act wisely in permitting him to join our party at the last moment
+before leaving Helena? One careless man, no less than one who is easily
+discouraged by difficulties, will frequently demoralize an entire
+company. I think we have now taken all possible precautions for our
+safety, but our numbers are few; and for me to say that I am not in
+hourly dread of the Indians when they appear in large force, would be a
+braggart boast.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Everts was taken sick this afternoon. All day we have had a cool
+breeze and a few light showers, clearing off from time to time,
+revealing the mountains opposite us covered from their summits half way
+down with the newly fallen snow, and light clouds floating just below
+over the foot hills. Until we reached the open valley of the Yellowstone
+our route was over a narrow trail, from which the stream, Trail creek,
+takes its name. The mountains opposite the point where we entered the
+valley are rugged, grand, picturesque and immense by turns, and colored
+by nature with a thousand gorgeous hues. We have traveled all this day
+amid this stupendous variety of landscape until we have at length
+reached the western shore of that vast and solitary river which is to
+guide us to the theatre of our explorations. From the "lay of the land"
+I should judge that our camp to-night is thirty-five to forty miles
+above the point where Captain William Clark, of the famous Lewis and
+Clark expedition, embarked with his party in July, 1806, in two
+cottonwood canoes bound together with buffalo thongs, on his return to
+the states. It was from that point also that some six hundred residents
+of Montana embarked for a trip to the states, in forty-two flat boats,
+in the autumn of 1865.[<a href="#note-C">C</a>] We learn from Mr. Boteler that there are some
+twenty-five lodges of Crow Indians up the valley.[<a href="#note-D">D</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, August 24</b>.&mdash;It rained nearly all of last night, but
+Lieutenant Doane pitched his large tent, which was sufficiently
+capacious to accommodate us all by lying "heads and tails," and we were
+very comfortable. Throughout the forenoon we had occasional showers, but
+about noon it cleared away, and, after getting a lunch, we got under
+way. During the forenoon some of the escort were very successful in
+fishing for trout. Mr. Everts was not well enough to accompany us, and
+it was arranged that he should remain at Boteler's ranch, and that we
+would move about twelve miles up the river, and there await his arrival.
+Our preparations for departure being completed, General Washburn
+detailed a guard of four men to accompany the pack train, while the rest
+of the party rode on ahead. We broke camp at 2:30 p.m. with the pack
+train and moved up the valley. At about six miles from our camp we
+crossed a spur of the mountain which came down boldly to the river, and
+from the top we had a beautiful view of the valley stretched out below
+us, the stream fringed with a thin bordering of trees, the foot hills
+rising into a level plateau covered with rich bunch grass, and towering
+above all, the snow-covered summits of the distant mountains rising
+majestically, seemingly just out of the plateau, though they were many
+miles away. Above us the valley opened out wide, and from the
+overlooking rock on which we stood we could see the long train of pack
+horses winding their way along the narrow trail, the whole presenting a
+picturesque scene. The rock on which we stood was a coarse conglomerate,
+or pudding stone.
+</p>
+<p>
+Five miles farther on we crossed a small stream bordered with black
+cherry trees, many of the smaller ones broken down by bears, of which
+animal we found many signs. One mile farther on we made our camp about a
+mile below the middle ca&ntilde;on. To-night we have antelope, rabbit, duck,
+grouse and the finest of large trout for supper. As I write, General
+Washburn, Hedges and Hauser are engaged in an animated discussion of the
+differences between France and Germany, and the probabilities of the
+outcome of the war. The three gentlemen are not agreed in determining
+where the responsibility for the trouble lies, and I fear that I will
+have to check their profanity. However, neither Washburn nor Hedges
+swears.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, August 25</b>.&mdash;Last night was very cold, the thermometer marking
+40 degrees at 8 o'clock a.m. At one mile of travel we came to the middle
+ca&ntilde;on, which we passed on a very narrow trail running over a high spur
+of the mountain overlooking the river, which at this point is forced
+through a narrow gorge, surging and boiling and tumbling over the rocks,
+the water having a dark green color. After passing the ca&ntilde;on we again
+left the valley, passing over the mountain, on the top of which at an
+elevation of several hundred feet above the river is a beautiful lake.
+Descending the mountain again, we entered the valley, which here is
+about one and a half to two miles wide. At nineteen miles from our
+morning camp we came to Gardiner's river, at the mouth of which we
+camped. We are near the southern boundary of Montana, and still in the
+limestone and granite formations. Mr. Everts came into camp just at
+night, nearly recovered, but very tired from his long and tedious ride
+over a rugged road, making our two days' travel in one. We passed to-day
+a singular formation which we named "The Devil's Slide," From the top of
+the mountain to the valley, a distance of about 800 feet, the trap rock
+projected from 75 to 125 feet, the intermediate layers of friable rock
+having been washed out. The trap formation is about twenty-five feet
+wide, and covered with stunted pine trees. Opposite our camp is a high
+drift formation of granite boulders, gravel and clay. The boulders are
+the regular gray Quincy granite, and those in the middle of the river
+are hollowed out by the action of the water into many curious shapes. We
+have here found our first specimens of petrifactions and obsidian, or
+volcanic glass. From the top of the mountain back of our camp we can see
+to-night a smoke rising from another peak, which some of our party think
+is a signal from one band of the Indians to another, conveying
+intelligence of our progress. Along our trail of to-day are plenty of
+Indian "signs," and marks of the lodge poles dragging in the sand on
+either side of the trail.[<a href="#note-E">E</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+Jake Smith stood guard last night, or ought to have done so, and but for
+the fact that Gillette was also on guard, I should not have had an
+undisturbed sleep. We know that the Indians are near us, and sleep is
+more refreshing to me when I feel assured that I will not be joined in
+my slumbers by those who are assigned for watchful guard duty.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-18"><!-- Image 18 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/221.jpg" width="300" height="443"
+alt="S.T. Hauser">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+<b>Friday, August 26</b>.&mdash;For some reason we did not leave camp till 11
+o'clock a.m. We forded Gardiner's river with some difficulty, several of
+our pack animals being nearly carried off their feet by the torrent. We
+passed over several rocky ridges or points coming down from the
+mountain, and at one and a half miles came down again into the valley,
+which one of our party called the "Valley of desolation." Taking the
+trail upon the left, we followed it until it led us to the mouth of a
+ca&ntilde;on, through which ran an old Indian or game trail, which was hardly
+discernible, and had evidently been long abandoned. Retracing our steps
+for a quarter of a mile, and taking a cut-off through the sage brush, we
+followed another trail upon our right up through a steep, dry coulee.
+From the head of the coulee we went through fallen timber over a burnt
+and rocky road, our progress being very slow. A great many of the packs
+came off our horses or became loosened, necessitating frequent haltings
+for their readjustment. Upon the summit we found a great many shells.
+Descending the divide we found upon the trail the carcass of an antelope
+which the advance party had killed, and which we packed on our horses
+and carried to our night camp. In the morning Lieutenant Doane and one
+of his men, together with Mr. Everts, had started out ahead of the party
+to search out the best trail. At 3 o'clock p.m. we arrived at Antelope
+creek, only six miles from our morning camp, where we concluded to halt.
+On the trail which we were following there were no tracks except those
+of unshod ponies; and, as our horses were all shod, it was evident that
+Lieutenant Doane and the advance party had descended the mountain by
+some other trail than that which we were following. Neither were there
+any marks of dragging lodge poles. There are seemingly two trails across
+the mountain,&mdash;a circuitous one by as easy a grade as can be found, over
+which the Indians send their families with their heavily laden pack
+horses; and a more direct, though more difficult, route which the war
+parties use in making their rapid rides. This last is the one we have
+taken, and the advance party has doubtless taken the other.
+</p>
+<p>
+Our camp to-night is on Antelope creek, about five miles from the
+Yellowstone river. After our arrival in camp, in company with Stickney
+and Gillette, I made a scout of eight or ten miles through the country
+east of our trail, and between it and the river, in search of some sign
+of Lieutenant Doane, but we found no trace of him. Parting from Stickney
+and Gillette, I followed down the stream through a narrow gorge by a
+game trail, hoping if I could reach the Yellowstone, to find a good
+trail along its banks up to the foot of the Grand ca&ntilde;on; but I found the
+route impracticable for the passage of our pack train. After supper Mr.
+Hauser and I went out in search of our other party, and found the tracks
+of their horses, which we followed about four miles to the brow of a
+mountain overlooking the country for miles in advance of us. Here we
+remained an hour, firing our guns as a signal, and carefully scanning
+the whole country with our field glasses. We could discern the trail for
+many miles on its tortuous course, but could see no sign of a camp, or
+of horses feeding, and we returned to our camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, August 27</b>.&mdash;Lieutenant Doane and those who were with him did
+not return to camp last night. At change of guard Gillette's pack horse
+became alarmed at something in the bushes bordering upon the creek on
+the bank of which he was tied, and, breaking loose, dashed through the
+camp, rousing all of us. Some wild animal&mdash;snake, fox or something of
+the kind&mdash;was probably the cause of the alarm. In its flight I became
+entangled in the lariat and was dragged head first for three or four
+rods, my head striking a log, which proved to be very rotten, and
+offered little resistance to a hard head, and did me very little
+damage. Towards morning a slight shower of rain fell, continuing at
+intervals till 8 o'clock. We left camp about 9 o'clock, the pack train
+following about 11 o'clock, and soon struck the trail of Lieutenant
+Doane, which proved to be the route traveled by the Indians. The marks
+of their lodge poles were plainly visible. At about four miles from our
+morning camp we discovered at some distance ahead of us what first
+appeared to be a young elk, but which proved to be a colt that had
+become separated from the camp of Indians to which it belonged. We think
+the Indians cannot be far from us at this time. Following the trail up
+the ascent leading from Antelope creek, we entered a deep cut, the sides
+of which rise at an angle of 45 degrees, and are covered with a
+luxuriant growth of grass. Through this cut we ascended by a grade
+entirely practicable for a wagon road to the summit of the divide
+separating the waters of Antelope creek from those of [<a href="#note-F">A</a>]&mdash;&mdash; creek, and
+from the summit descended through a beautiful gorge to a small tributary
+of the Yellowstone, a distance of two miles, dismounting and leading our
+horses almost the entire distance, the descent being too precipitous for
+the rider's comfort or for ease to the horse. We were now within four
+miles of[<a href="#note-F">F</a>]&mdash;&mdash; creek, and within two miles of the Yellowstone. On the
+right of the trail, two miles farther on, we found a small hot sulphur
+spring, the water of which was at a temperature a little below the
+boiling point, which at this elevation is about 195 degrees. Ascending a
+high ridge we had a commanding view of a basaltic formation of
+palisades, about thirty feet in height, on the opposite bank of the
+Yellowstone, overlooking a stratum of cement and gravel nearly two
+hundred feet thick, beneath which is another formation of the basaltic
+rock, and beneath this another body of cement and gravel. We named this
+formation "Column Rock." The upper formation, from which the rock takes
+its name, consists of basaltic columns about thirty feet high, closely
+touching each other, the columns being from three to five feet in
+diameter. A little farther on we descended the sides of the ca&ntilde;on,
+through which runs a large creek. We crossed this creek and camped on
+the south side. Our camp is about four hundred feet in elevation above
+the Yellowstone, which is not more than two miles distant. The creek is
+full of granite boulders, varying in size from six inches to ten feet in
+diameter.
+</p>
+<p>
+General Washburn was on guard last night, and to-night he seems somewhat
+fatigued. Mr. Hedges has improvised a writing stool from a sack of
+flour, and I have appropriated a sack of beans for a like use; and, as
+we have been writing, there has been a lively game of cards played near
+my left side, which Hedges, who has just closed his diary, says is a
+game of poker. I doubt if Deacon Hedges is sufficiently posted in the
+game to know to a certainty that poker is the game which is being
+played; but, putting what Hedges tells me with what I see and hear, I
+find that these infatuated players have put a valuation of five (5)
+cents per bean, on beans that did not cost more than $1 quart in Helena,
+and Jake Smith exhibits a marvelous lack of veneration for his
+kinswoman, by referring to each bean, as he places it before him upon
+the table, as his "aunt," or, more flippantly, his "auntie." Walter
+Trumbull has been styled the "Banker," and he says that at the
+commencement of the game he sold forty of these beans to each of the
+players, himself included (200 in all), at five (5) cents each, and that
+he has already redeemed the entire 200 at that rate; and now Jake Smith
+has a half-pint cup nearly full of beans, and is demanding of Trumbull
+that he redeem them also; that is, pay five (5) cents per bean for the
+contents of the cup. Trumbull objects. Jake persists. Reflecting upon
+their disagreement I recall that about an hour ago Jake, with an
+apologetic "Excuse me!" disturbed me while I was writing and untied the
+bean sack on which I am now sitting, and took from it a double handful
+of beans.
+</p>
+<p>
+It seems to me that a game of cards which admits of such latitude as
+this, with a practically unlimited draft upon outside resources, is
+hardly fair to all parties, and especially to "The Banker."
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, August 28</b>.&mdash;To-day being Sunday, we remained all day in our
+camp, which Washburn and Everts have named "Camp Comfort," as we have an
+abundance of venison and trout.
+</p>
+<p>
+We visited the falls of the creek, the waters of which tumble over the
+rocks and boulders for the distance of 200 yards from our camp, and then
+fall a distance of 110 feet, as triangulated by Mr. Hauser. Stickney
+ventured to the verge of the fall, and, with a stone attached to a
+strong cord, measured its height, which he gives as 105 feet.
+</p>
+<p>
+The stream, in its descent to the brink of the fall, is separated into
+half a dozen distorted channels which have zig-zagged their passage
+through the cement formation, working it into spires, pinnacles, towers
+and many other capricious objects. Many of these are of faultless
+symmetry, resembling the minaret of a mosque; others are so grotesque as
+to provoke merriment as well as wonder. One of this latter character we
+named "The Devil's Hoof," from its supposed similarity to the proverbial
+foot of his Satanic majesty. The height of this rock from its base is
+about fifty feet.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-19"><!-- Image 19 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/222.jpg" width="300" height="437"
+alt="Devil's Hoof.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The friable rock forming the spires and towers and pinnacles crumbles
+away under a slight pressure. I climbed one of these tall spires on the
+brink of the chasm overlooking the fall, and from the top had a
+beautiful view, though it was one not unmixed with terror. Directly
+beneath my feet, but probably about one hundred feet below me, was the
+verge of the fall, and still below that the deep gorge through which the
+creek went bounding and roaring over the boulders to its union with the
+Yellowstone. The scenery here cannot be called grand or magnificent, but
+it is most beautiful and picturesque. The spires are from 75 to 100 feet
+in height. The volume of water is about six or eight times that of
+Minnehaha fall, and I think that a month ago, while the snows were still
+melting, the creek could not easily have been forded. The route to the
+foot of the fall is by a well worn Indian trail running to the mouth of
+the creek over boulders and fallen pines, and through thickets of
+raspberry bushes.
+</p>
+<p>
+At the mouth of the creek on the Yellowstone is a hot sulphur spring,
+the odor from which is perceptible in our camp to-day. At the base of
+the fall we found a large petrifaction of wood imbedded in the debris of
+the falling cement and slate rock. There are several sulphur springs at
+the mouth of the creek, three of them boiling, others nearly as hot as
+boiling water. There is also a milky white sulphur spring. Within one
+yard of a spring, the temperature of which is little below the boiling
+point, is a sulphur spring with water nearly as cold as ice water, or
+not more than ten degrees removed from it.
+</p>
+<p>
+I went around and almost under the fall, or as far as the rocks gave a
+foot-hold, the rising spray thoroughly wetting and nearly blinding me.
+Some two hundred yards below the fall is a huge granite boulder about
+thirty feet in diameter. Where did it come from?
+</p>
+<p>
+In camp to-day several names were proposed for the creek and fall, and
+after much discussion the name "Minaret" was selected. Later, this
+evening, this decision has been reconsidered, and we have decided to
+substitute the name "Tower" for "Minaret," and call it "Tower Fall."[<a href="#note-G">G</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+General Washburn rode out to make a <i>reconnaissance</i> for a route to the
+river, and returned about 3 o'clock in the afternoon with the
+intelligence that from the summit of a high mountain he had seen
+Yellowstone lake, the proposed object of our visit; and with his compass
+he had noted its direction from our camp. This intelligence has greatly
+relieved our anxiety concerning the course we are to pursue, and has
+quieted the dread apprehensions of some of our number, lest we become
+inextricably involved in the wooded labyrinth by which we are
+surrounded; and in violation of our agreement that we would not give the
+name of any member of our party to any object of interest, we have
+spontaneously and by unanimous vote given the mountain the name by which
+it will hereafter and forever be known, "Mount Washburn."
+</p>
+<p>
+In addition to our saddle horses and pack horses, we have another
+four-footed animal in our outfit&mdash;a large black dog of seeming little
+intelligence, to which we have given the name of "Booby." He is owned
+by "Nute," one of our colored boys, who avers that he is a very knowing
+dog, and will prove himself so before our journey is ended. The poor
+beast is becoming sore-footed, and his sufferings excite our sympathy,
+and we are trying to devise some kind of shoe or moccasin for him. The
+rest to-day in camp will benefit him. Lieutenant Doane is suffering
+greatly with a felon on his thumb. It ought to be opened, but he is
+unwilling to submit to a thorough operation. His sufferings kept him
+awake nearly all of last night.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Monday, August 29</b>.&mdash;We broke camp about 8 o'clock, leaving the trail,
+which runs down to the mouth of the creek, and passed over a succession
+of high ridges, and part of the time through fallen timber. The trail of
+the Indians leads off to the left, to the brink of the Yellowstone,
+which it follows up about three-fourths of a mile, and then crosses to
+the east side. Hauser, Gillette, Stickney, Trumbull and myself rode out
+to the summit of Mount Washburn, which is probably the highest peak on
+the west side of the river. Having an aneroid barometer with us, we
+ascertained the elevation of the mountain to be about 9,800 feet. The
+summit is about 500 feet above the snow line.
+</p>
+<p>
+Descending the mountain on the southwest side, we came upon the trail of
+the pack train, which we followed to our camp at the head of a small
+stream running into the Yellowstone, which is about five miles distant.
+As we came into camp a black bear kindly vacated the premises. After
+supper some of our party followed down the creek to its mouth. At about
+one mile below our camp the creek runs through a bed of volcanic ashes,
+which extends for a hundred yards on either side. Toiling on our course
+down this creek to the river we came suddenly upon a basin of boiling
+sulphur springs, exhibiting signs of activity and points of difference
+so wonderful as to fully absorb our curiosity. The largest of these,
+about twenty feet in diameter, is boiling like a cauldron, throwing
+water and fearful volumes of sulphurous vapor higher than our heads. Its
+color is a disagreeable greenish yellow. The central spring of the
+group, of dark leaden hue, is in the most violent agitation, its
+convulsive spasms frequently projecting large masses of water to the
+height of seven or eight feet. The spring lying to the east of this,
+more diabolical in appearance, filled with a hot brownish substance of
+the consistency of mucilage, is in constant noisy ebullition, emitting
+fumes of villainous odor. Its surface is covered with bubbles, which are
+constantly rising and bursting, and emitting sulphurous gases from
+various parts of its surface. Its appearance has suggested the name,
+which Hedges has given, of "Hell-Broth springs;" for, as we gazed upon
+the infernal mixture and inhaled the pungent sickening vapors, we were
+impressed with the idea that this was a most perfect realization of
+Shakespeare's image in Macbeth. It needed but the presence of Hecate and
+her weird band to realize that horrible creation of poetic fancy, and I
+fancied the "black and midnight hags" concocting a charm around this
+horrible cauldron. We ventured near enough to this spring to dip the end
+of a pine pole into it, which, upon removal, was covered an eighth of an
+inch thick with lead-colored sulphury slime.
+</p>
+<p>
+There are five large springs and half a dozen smaller ones in this
+basin, all of them strongly impregnated with sulphur, alum and arsenic.
+The water from all the larger springs is dark brown or nearly black. The
+largest spring is fifteen to eighteen feet in diameter, and the water
+boils up like a cauldron from 18 to 30 inches, and one instinctively
+draws back from the edge as the hot sulphur steam rises around him.
+Another of the larger springs is intermittent. The smaller springs are
+farther up on the bank than the larger ones. The deposit of sinter
+bordering one of them, with the emission of steam and smoke combined,
+gives it a resemblance to a chimney of a miner's cabin. Around them all
+is an incrustation formed from the bases of the spring deposits,
+arsenic, alum, sulphur, etc. This incrustation is sufficiently strong in
+many places to bear the weight of a man, but more frequently it gave
+way, and from the apertures thus created hot steam issued, showing it to
+be dangerous to approach the edge of the springs; and it was with the
+greatest difficulty that I obtained specimens of the incrustation. This
+I finally accomplished by lying at full length upon that portion of the
+incrustation which yielded the least, but which was not sufficiently
+strong to bear my weight while I stood upright, and at imminent risk of
+sinking in the infernal mixture, I rolled over and over to the edge of
+the opening; and, with the crust slowly bending and sinking beneath me,
+hurriedly secured the coveted prize of black sulphur, and rolled back to
+a place of safety.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-20"><!-- Image 20 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/223.jpg" width="450" height="402"
+alt="Securing a Specimen at Hell-Broth Springs.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+From the springs to the mouth of the creek we followed along the bank,
+the bed or bottom being too rough and precipitous for us to travel in
+it, the total fall in the creek for the three miles being about fifteen
+hundred feet. Standing upon the high point at the junction of the creek
+with the Yellowstone, one first gets some idea of the depth of the ca&ntilde;on
+through which the river runs. From this height the sound of the waters
+of the Yellowstone, tumbling over tremendous rocks and boulders, could
+not be heard. Everything around us&mdash;mountains, valleys, ca&ntilde;on and trees,
+heights and depths&mdash;all are in such keeping and proportion that all our
+estimates of distances are far below the real truth. To-day we passed
+the mouth of Hell-Roaring river on the opposite side of the Yellowstone.
+</p>
+<p>
+It was again Jake Smith's turn for guard duty last night, but this
+morning Jake's countenance wore a peculiar expression, which indicated
+that he possessed some knowledge not shared by the rest of the party. He
+spoke never a word, and was as serene as a Methodist minister behind
+four aces. My interpretation of this self-satisfied serenity is that his
+guard duty did not deprive him of much sleep. When it comes to
+considering the question of danger in this Indian country, Jake thinks
+that he knows more than the veteran Jim Stuart, whom we expected to join
+us on this trip, and who has given us some salutary words of caution. In
+a matter in which the safety of our whole party is involved, it is
+unfortunate that there are no "articles of war" to aid in the
+enforcement of discipline, in faithful guard duty.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, August 30</b>.&mdash;We broke camp about 9 o'clock a.m., traveling in a
+southerly direction over the hills adjoining our camp, and then
+descended the ridge in a southwesterly direction, heading off several
+ravines, till we came into a small valley; thence we crossed over a
+succession of ridges of fallen timber to a creek, where we halted about
+ten miles from our morning camp and about a mile from the upper fall of
+the Yellowstone. Mr. Hedges gave the name "Cascade creek" to this
+stream.
+</p>
+<p>
+When we left our camp this morning at Hell-Broth springs, I remarked to
+Mr. Hedges and General Washburn that the wonders of which we were in
+pursuit had not disappointed us in their first exhibitions, and that I
+was encouraged in the faith that greater curiosities lay before us. We
+believed that the great cataracts of the Yellowstone were within two
+days', or at most three days', travel. So when we reached Cascade creek,
+on which we are now encamped, after a short day of journeying, it was
+with much astonishment as well as delight that we found ourselves in the
+immediate presence of the falls. Their roar, smothered by the vast depth
+of the ca&ntilde;on into which they plunge, was not heard until they were
+before us. With remarkable deliberation we unsaddled and lariated our
+horses, and even refreshed ourselves with such creature comforts as our
+larder readily afforded, before we deigned a survey of these great
+wonders of nature. On our walk down the creek to the river, struck with
+the beauty of its cascades, we even neglected the greater, to admire the
+lesser wonders. Bushing with great celerity through a deep defile of
+lava and obsidian, worn into caverns and fissures, the stream,
+one-fourth of a mile from its debouchure, breaks into a continuous
+cascade of remarkable beauty, consisting of a fall of five feet,
+succeeded by another of fifteen into a grotto formed by proximate rocks
+imperfectly arching it, whence from a crystal pool of unfathomable depth
+at their base, it lingers as if half reluctant to continue its course,
+or as if to renew its power, and then glides gracefully over a
+descending, almost perpendicular, ledge, veiling the rocks for the
+distance of eighty feet. Mr. Hedges gave to this succession of cascades
+the name "Crystal fall." It is very beautiful; but the broken and
+cavernous gorge through which it passes, worn into a thousand fantastic
+shapes, bearing along its margin the tracks of grizzly bears and lesser
+wild animals, scattered throughout with huge masses of obsidian and
+other volcanic matter&mdash;the whole suggestive of nothing earthly nor
+heavenly&mdash;received at our hands, and not inaptly as I conceive, the name
+of "The Devil's Den."
+</p>
+<p>
+I presume that many persons will question the taste evinced by our
+company in the selection of names for the various objects of interest we
+have thus far met with; but they are all so different from any of
+Nature's works that we have ever seen or heard of, so entirely out of
+range of human experience, and withal so full of exhibitions which can
+suggest no other fancy than that which our good grandmothers have
+painted on our boyish imaginations as a destined future abode, that we
+are likely, almost involuntarily, to pursue the system with which we
+have commenced, to the end of our journey. A similar imagination has
+possessed travelers and visitors to other volcanic regions.
+</p>
+<p>
+We have decided to remain at this point through the entire day
+to-morrow, and examine the ca&ntilde;on and falls. From the brief survey of the
+ca&ntilde;on I was enabled to make before darkness set in, I am impressed with
+its awful grandeur, and I realize the impossibility of giving to any one
+who has not seen a gorge similar in character, any idea of it.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-21"><!-- Image 21 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/224.jpg" width="300" height="481"
+alt="Cornelius Hedges.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+It is getting late, and it is already past our usual bedtime, and Jake
+Smith is calling to me to "turn in" and give him a chance to sleep.
+There is in what I have already seen so much of novelty to fill the
+mind and burden the memory, that unless I write down in detail the
+events of each day, and indeed almost of each hour as it passes, I shall
+not be able to prepare for publication on my return home any clear or
+satisfactory account of these wonders. So Jake may go to. I will write
+until my candle burns out. Jacob is indolent and fond of slumber, and I
+think that he resents my remark to him the other day, that he could burn
+more and gather less wood than any man I ever camped with. He has dubbed
+me "The Yellowstone sharp." Good! I am not ashamed to have the title.
+Lieutenant Doane has crawled out of his blankets, and is just outside
+the tent with his hand and fore-arm immersed in water nearly as cold as
+ice. I am afraid that lock-jaw will set in if he does not consent to
+have the felon lanced.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, August 31</b>.&mdash;This has been a "red-letter" day with me, and one
+which I shall not soon forget, for my mind is clogged and my memory
+confused by what I have to-day seen. General Washburn and Mr. Hedges are
+sitting near me, writing, and we have an understanding that we will
+compare our notes when finished. We are all overwhelmed with
+astonishment and wonder at what we have seen, and we feel that we have
+been near the very presence of the Almighty. General Washburn has just
+quoted from the psalm:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "When I behold the work of Thy hands, what is man
+ that Thou art mindful of him!"
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+My own mind is so confused that I hardly know where to commence in
+making a clear record of what is at this moment floating past my mental
+vision. I cannot confine myself to a bare description of the falls of
+the Yellowstone alone, for these two great cataracts are but one feature
+in a scene composed of so many of the elements of grandeur and
+sublimity, that I almost despair of giving to those who on our return
+home will listen to a recital of our adventures, the faintest conception
+of it. The immense ca&ntilde;on or gorge of rocks through which the river
+descends, perhaps more than the falls, is calculated to fill the
+observer with feelings of mingled awe and terror. This chasm is
+seemingly about thirty miles in length. Commencing above the upper fall,
+it attains a depth of two hundred feet where that takes its plunge, and
+in the distance of half a mile from that point to the verge of the lower
+fall, it rapidly descends with the river between walls of rock nearly
+six hundred feet in vertical height, to which three hundred and twenty
+feet are added by the fall. Below this the wall lines marked by the
+descent of the river grow in height with incredible distinctness, until
+they are probably two thousand feet above the water. There is a
+difference of nearly three thousand feet in altitude between the surface
+of the river at the upper fall and the foot of the ca&ntilde;on. Opposite Mount
+Washburn the ca&ntilde;on must be more than half a vertical mile in depth. As
+it is impossible to explore the entire ca&ntilde;on, we are unable to tell
+whether the course of the river through it is broken by other and larger
+cataracts than the two we have seen, or whether its continuous descent
+alone has produced the enormous depth to which it has attained. Rumors
+of falls a thousand feet in height have often reached us before we made
+this visit. At all points where we approached the edge of the ca&ntilde;on the
+river was descending with fearful momentum through it, and the rapids
+and foam from the dizzy summit of the rock overhanging the lower fall,
+and especially from points farther down the ca&ntilde;on, were so terrible to
+behold, that none of our company could venture the experiment in any
+other manner than by lying prone upon the rock, to gaze into its awful
+depths; depths so amazing that the sound of the rapids in their course
+over immense boulders, and lashing in fury the base of the rocks on
+which we were lying, could not be heard. The stillness is horrible, and
+the solemn grandeur of the scene surpasses conception. You feel the
+absence of sound&mdash;the oppression of absolute silence. Down, down, down,
+you see the river attenuated to a thread. If you could only hear that
+gurgling river, lashing with puny strength the massive walls that
+imprison it and hold it in their dismal shadow, if you could but see a
+living thing in the depth beneath you, if a bird would but fly past you,
+if the wind would move any object in that awful chasm, to break for a
+moment the solemn silence which reigns there, it would relieve that
+tension of the nerves which the scene has excited, and with a grateful
+heart you would thank God that he had permitted you to gaze unharmed
+upon this majestic display of his handiwork. But as it is, the spirit of
+man sympathizes with the deep gloom of the scene, and the brain reels as
+you gaze into this profound and solemn solitude.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-22"><!-- Image 22 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/225.jpg" width="450" height="627"
+alt="Grand Ca&Ntilde;on.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The place where I obtained the best and most terrible view of the ca&ntilde;on
+was a narrow projecting point situated two or three miles below the
+lower fall.[<a href="#note-H">H</a>] Standing there or rather lying there for greater safety,
+I thought how utterly impossible it would be to describe to another the
+sensations inspired by such a presence. As I took in this scene, I
+realized my own littleness, my helplessness, my dread exposure to
+destruction, my inability to cope with or even comprehend the mighty
+architecture of nature. More than all this I felt as never before my
+entire dependence upon that Almighty Power who had wrought these
+wonders. A sense of danger, lest the rock should crumble away, almost
+overpowered me. My knees trembled, and I experienced the terror which
+causes, men to turn pale and their countenances to blanch with fear, and
+I recoiled from the vision I had seen, glad to feel the solid earth
+beneath me and to realize the assurance of returning safety.
+</p>
+<p>
+The scenery surrounding the ca&ntilde;on and falls on both banks of the
+Yellowstone is enlivened by all the hues of abundant vegetation. The
+foot-hills approach the river, crowned with a vesture of evergreen
+pines. Meadows verdant with grasses and shrubbery stretch away to the
+base of the distant mountains, which, rolling into ridges, rising into
+peaks, and breaking into chains, are defined in the deepest blue upon
+the horizon. To render the scene still more imposing, remarkable
+volcanic deposits, wonderful boiling springs, jets of heated vapor,
+large collections of sulphur, immense rocks and petrifications abound in
+great profusion in this immediate vicinity. The river is filled with
+trout, and bear, elk, deer, mountain lions and lesser game roam the
+plains, forests and mountain fastnesses.
+</p>
+<p>
+The two grand falls of the Yellowstone form a fitting completion to this
+stupendous climax of wonders. They impart life, power, light and majesty
+to an assemblage of elements, which without them would be the most
+gloomy and horrible solitude in nature. Their eternal anthem, echoing
+from ca&ntilde;on, mountain, rock and woodland, thrills you with delight, and
+you gaze with rapture at the iris-crowned curtains of fleecy foam as
+they plunge into gulfs enveloped in mist and spray. The stillness which
+held your senses spellbound, as you peered into the dismal depths of the
+ca&ntilde;on below, is now broken by the uproar of waters; the terror it
+inspired is superseded by admiration and astonishment, and the scene,
+late so painful from its silence and gloom, is now animate with joy and
+revelry.
+</p>
+<p>
+The upper fall, as determined by the rude means of measurement at our
+command, is one hundred and fifteen feet in height. The river approaches
+it through a passage of rocks which rise one hundred feet on either side
+above its surface. Until within half a mile of the brink of the fall the
+river is peaceful and unbroken by a ripple. Suddenly, as if aware of
+impending danger, it becomes lashed into foam, circled with eddies, and
+soon leaps into fearful rapids. The rocky jaws confining it gradually
+converge as it approaches the edge of the fall, bending its course by
+their projections, and apparently crowding back the water, which
+struggles and leaps against their bases, warring with its bounds in the
+impatience of restraint, and madly leaping from its confines, a liquid
+emerald wreathed with foam, into the abyss beneath. The sentinel rocks,
+a hundred feet asunder, could easily be spanned by a bridge directly
+over and in front of the fall, and fancy led me forward to no distant
+period when such an effort of airy architecture would be crowded with
+happy gazers from all portions of our country. A quarter of the way
+between the verge and the base of the fall a rocky table projects from
+the west bank, in front of and almost within reaching distance of it,
+furnishing a point of observation where the finest view can be obtained.
+In order to get a more perfect view of the cataract, Mr. Hedges and I
+made our way down to this table rock, where we sat for a long time. As
+from this spot we looked up at the descending waters, we insensibly felt
+that the slightest protrusion in them would hurl us backwards into the
+gulf below. A thousand arrows of foam, apparently <i>aimed at us</i>, leaped
+from the verge, and passed rapidly down the sheet. But as the view grew
+upon us, and we comprehended the power, majesty and beauty of the scene,
+we became insensible to danger and gave ourselves up to the full
+enjoyment of it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Very beautiful as is this fall, it is greatly excelled in grandeur and
+magnificence by the cataract half a mile below it, where the river takes
+another perpendicular plunge of three hundred and twenty feet into the
+most gloomy cavern that ever received so majestic a visitant. Between
+the two falls, the river, though bordered by lofty precipices, expands
+in width and flows gently over a nearly level surface until its near
+approach to the verge. Here a sudden convergence in the rocks compresses
+its channel, and with a gurgling, choking struggle, it leaps with a
+single bound, sheer from an even level shelf, into the tremendous
+chasm. The sheet could not be more perfect if wrought by art. The
+Almighty has vouchsafed no grander scene to human eyes. Every object
+that meets the vision increases its sublimity. There is a majestic
+harmony in the whole, which I have never seen before in nature's
+grandest works. The fall itself takes its leap between the jaws of rocks
+whose vertical height above it is more than six hundred feet, and more
+than nine hundred feet above the chasm into which it falls. Long before
+it reaches the base it is enveloped in spray, which is woven by the
+sun's rays into bows radiant with all the colors of the prism, and
+arching the face of the cataract with their glories. Five hundred feet
+below the edge of the ca&ntilde;on, and one hundred and sixty feet above the
+verge of the cataract, and overlooking the deep gorge beneath, on the
+flattened summit of a projecting crag, I lay with my face turned into
+the boiling chasm, and with a stone suspended by a large cord measured
+its profoundest depths. Three times in its descent the cord was parted
+by abrasion, but at last, securing the weight with a leather band, I was
+enabled to ascertain by a measurement which I think quite exact, the
+height of the fall. It is a little more than three hundred and twenty
+feet; while the perpendicular wall down which I suspended the weight was
+five hundred and ten feet.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-23"><!-- Image 23 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/226.jpg" width="450" height="580"
+alt="Lower Fall of the Yellowstone.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Looking down from this lofty eminence through the ca&ntilde;on below the falls,
+the scene is full of grandeur. The descent of the river for more than a
+mile is marked by continuous cascades varying in height from five to
+twenty feet, and huge rapids breaking over the rocks, and lashing with
+foam the precipitous sides of the gorge. A similar descent through the
+entire ca&ntilde;on (thirty miles), is probable, as in no other way except by
+distinct cataracts of enormous height can the difference in altitude
+between this point and its outlet be explained. The colors of the rock,
+which is shaly in character, are variegated with yellow, gray and brown,
+and the action of the water in its rapid passage down the sides of the
+ca&ntilde;on has worn the fragments of shale into countless capricious forms.
+Jets of steam issue from the sides of the ca&ntilde;on at frequent intervals,
+marking the presence of thermal springs and active volcanic forces. The
+evidence of a recession of the river through the ca&ntilde;on is designated by
+the ridges apparent on its sides, and it is not improbable that at no
+distant day the lower fall will become blended by this process with the
+upper, forming a single cataract nearly five hundred feet in height.
+</p>
+<p>
+There are but few places where the sides of the Grand ca&ntilde;on can be
+descended with safety. Hauser and Stickney made the descent at a point
+where the river was 1,050 feet below the edge of the ca&ntilde;on, as
+determined by triangulation by Mr. Hauser. Lieutenant Doane, accompanied
+by his orderly, went down the river several miles, and following down
+the bed of a lateral stream reached its junction with the Yellowstone at
+a point where the ca&ntilde;on was about 1,500 feet in depth&mdash;the surface of
+the ground rising the farther he went down the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges and I sat on the table-rock to which I have referred,
+opposite the upper fall, as long as our limited time would permit; and
+as we reluctantly left it and climbed to the top, I expressed my regret
+at leaving so fascinating a spot, quoting the familiar line:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "A thing of beauty is a joy forever."
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges asked me who was the author of the line, but I could not
+tell. I will look it up on my return.[<a href="#note-I">I</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+Yes! This stupendous display of nature's handiwork will be to me "a joy
+forever." It lingers in my memory like the faintly defined outlines of a
+dream. I can scarcely realize that in the unbroken solitude of this
+majestic range of rocks, away from civilization and almost inaccessible
+to human approach, the Almighty has placed so many of the most wonderful
+and magnificent objects of His creation, and that I am to be one of the
+few first to bring them to the notice of the world. Truly has it been
+said, that we live to learn how little may be known, and of what we see,
+how much surpasses comprehension.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, September 1</b>.&mdash;We did not break camp till nearly ten o'clock
+this morning, the pack-train crossing Cascade creek at its head, and
+coming into the river trail about two miles above the upper fall. The
+more direct trail&mdash;shorter by one and a half miles&mdash;runs along the bank
+of the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+If we had not decided, last night, that we would move on to-day, I think
+that every member of the party would have been glad to stay another day
+at the ca&ntilde;on and falls. I will, however, except out of the number our
+comrade Jake Smith. The afternoon of our arrival at the ca&ntilde;on (day
+before yesterday), after half an hour of inspection of the falls and
+ca&ntilde;on, he said: "Well, boys, I have seen all there is, and I am ready to
+move on."
+</p>
+<p>
+However, the perceptible decline in our larder, and the uncertainty of
+the time to be occupied in further explorations, forbid more than these
+two days' stay at the falls and ca&ntilde;on. The sun this morning shone
+brightly, and its rays were reflected upon the sides of the dismal
+ca&ntilde;on&mdash;so dark, and gray, and still&mdash;enlivening and brightening it.
+To-day has been warm, and nature this morning seemed determined that our
+last look should be the brightest, for the beauties of the entire
+landscape invited us to make a longer stay, and we lingered till the
+last moment, that the final impression might not be lost.
+</p>
+<p>
+Pursuing our journey, at two miles above the falls we crossed a small
+stream which we named "Alum" creek, as it is strongly impregnated with
+alum.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-24"><!-- Image 24 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/227.jpg" width="300" height="466"
+alt="W.C. Gillette.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Six miles above the upper fall we entered upon a region remarkable for
+the number and variety of its hot springs and craters. The principal
+spring, and the one that first meets the eye as you approach from the
+north, is a hot sulphur spring, of oval shape, the water of which is
+constantly boiling and is thrown up to the height of from three to seven
+feet. Its two diameters are about twelve feet and twenty feet, and it
+has an indented border of seemingly pure sulphur, about two feet wide
+and extending down into the spring or cauldron to the edge of the water,
+which at the time of our visit, if it had been at rest, would have been
+fifteen or eighteen inches below the rim of the spring. This spring is
+situated at the base of a low mountain, and the gentle slope below and
+around the spring for the distance of two hundred or three hundred feet
+is covered to the depth of from three to ten inches with the sulphurous
+deposit from the overflow of the spring. The moistened bed of a dried-up
+rivulet, leading from the edge of the spring down inside through this
+deposit, showed us that the spring had but recently been overflowing.
+Farther along the base of this mountain is a sulphurous cavern about
+twenty feet deep, and seven or eight feet in diameter at its mouth, out
+of which the steam is thrown in jets with a sound resembling the puffing
+of a steam-boat when laboring over a sand-bar, and with as much
+uniformity and intonation as if emitted by a high-pressure engine. From
+hundreds of fissures in the adjoining mountain from base to summit,
+issue hot sulphur vapors, the apertures through which they escape being
+encased in thick incrustations of sulphur, which in many instances is
+perfectly pure. There are nearby a number of small sulphur springs, not
+especially remarkable in appearance.
+</p>
+<p>
+About one hundred yards from these springs is a large hot spring of
+irregular shape, but averaging forty feet long by twenty-five wide, the
+water of which is of a dark muddy color. Still farther on are twenty or
+thirty springs of boiling mud of different degrees of consistency and
+color, and of sizes varying from two to eight feet in diameter, and of
+depths below the surface varying from three to eight feet. The mud in
+these springs is in most cases a little thinner than mortar prepared
+for plastering, and, as it is thrown up from one to two feet, I can
+liken its appearance to nothing so much as Indian meal hasty pudding
+when the process of boiling is nearly completed, except that the
+puffing, bloated bubbles are greatly magnified, being from a few inches
+to two feet in diameter. In some of the springs the mud is of dark brown
+color, in others nearly pink, and in one it was almost yellow. Springs
+four or five feet in diameter and not over six feet apart, have no
+connection one with another either above or beneath the surface, the mud
+in them being of different colors. In some instances there is a
+difference of three feet in the height to which the mud in adjoining
+springs attains. There may be in some instances two or more springs
+which receive their supply of mud and their underground pressure from
+the same general source, but these instances are rare, nor can we
+determine positively that such is the case. This mud having been worked
+over and over for many years is as soft as the finest pigments.
+</p>
+<p>
+All of these springs are embraced within a circle the radius of which is
+from a thousand to twelve hundred feet, and the whole of this surface
+seems to be a smothered crater covered over with an incrustation of
+sufficient strength and thickness to bear usually a very heavy weight,
+but which in several instances yielded and even broke through under the
+weight of our horses as we rode over it. We quickly dismounted, and as
+we were making some examinations, the crust broke through several times
+in some thin places through which vapor was issuing. Under the whole of
+this incrustation the hottest fires seem to be raging, and the heat
+issuing from the vents or from the crevices caused from the breaking in
+of the surface is too intense to be borne by the gloved hand for an
+instant. Surrounding the natural vents are deposits of pure sulphur,
+portions of which in many instances we broke off, and after allowing
+them to cool, brought them away with us. On the top of the mountain
+overlooking the large sulphur spring is a small living crater about six
+inches in diameter, out of which issue hot vapor and smoke. On the slope
+adjoining the mud spring is another crater of irregular shape, but
+embracing about one hundred square inches, out of which issues hot
+vapor, the rocks adjoining changing color under the intense heat with
+every breath blown upon them.
+</p>
+<p>
+The tramp of our horses' feet as we rode over the incrustation at the
+base of the mountain returned a hollow sound; yet while some of our
+party were not disposed to venture upon it with their horses, still I
+think with care in selecting a route there is very little danger in
+riding over it.
+</p>
+<p>
+On the mountain, large quantities of sulphur formed by the condensation
+of the vapor issuing from the crevices, now closed, but once in activity
+in the incrusted covering, have been deposited, and we collected many
+specimens of pure and crystallized sulphur. Thousands of pounds of pure
+and nearly pure sulphur are now lying on the top and sides of the
+mountain, all of which can be easily gathered with the aid of a spade to
+detach it from the mountain side incrustations to which it adheres in
+the process of condensation. We gave to this mountain the name "Crater
+hill."
+</p>
+<p>
+Five miles further on we camped near the "Mud geyser." Our course to-day
+has been for the greater part over a level valley, which was plainly
+visible from the top of Mount Washburn. The water of the river at this
+point is strongly impregnated with the mineral bases of the springs
+surrounding our camp, and that empty into the river above it.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Friday, September 2</b>.&mdash;To-day we have occupied ourselves in examining the
+springs and other wonders at this point. At the base of the foot-hills
+adjoining our camp are three large springs of thick boiling mud, the
+largest of which resembles an immense cauldron. It is about thirty feet
+in diameter, bordered by a rim several feet wide, upon which one can
+stand within reach of the boiling mass of mud, the surface of which is
+four or five feet below the rim enclosing it, the rim being a little
+raised above the surrounding level. Some twelve or fifteen rods from
+this spring are two other springs from ten to twelve feet in diameter.
+Near by is a hot (not boiling) spring of sulphur, fifteen to eighteen
+feet in diameter, too hot to bathe in. From these we passed over the
+timbered hill at the base of which these springs are situated. In the
+timber along the brow of the hill and near its summit, and immediately
+under the living trees, the hot sulphur vapor and steam issue from
+several fissures or craters, showing that the hottest fires are raging
+at some point beneath the surface crust, which in a great many places
+gives forth a hollow sound as we pass over it. Through a little coulee
+on the other side of the hill runs a small stream of greenish water,
+which issues from a small cavern, the mouth of which is about five feet
+high and the same dimension in width. From the mouth, the roof of the
+cavern descends at an angle of about fifteen degrees, till at the
+distance of twenty feet from the entrance it joins the surface of the
+water. The bottom of the cavern under the water seems to descend at
+about the same angle, but as the water is in constant ebullition, we
+cannot determine this fact accurately. The water is thrown out in
+regular spasmodic jets, the pulsations occurring once in ten or twelve
+seconds. The sides and mouth of this cavern are covered with a dark
+green deposit, some of which we have taken with us for analysis. About
+two hundred yards farther on is another geyser, the flow of which occurs
+about every six hours, and when the crater is full the diameter of the
+surface is about fourteen feet, the sides of the crater being of an
+irregular funnelshape, and descending at an angle of about forty-five
+degrees. At the lowest point at which we saw the water it was about
+seven feet in diameter on the surface. One or another of our party
+watched the gradual rise of the water for four or five hours. The
+boiling commenced when the water had risen half way to the surface,
+occasionally breaking forth with great violence. When the water had
+reached its full height in the basin, the stream was thrown up with
+great force to a height of from twenty to thirty feet, the column being
+from seven to ten feet in diameter at the midway height of the column,
+from bottom to top. The water was of a dark lead color, and those
+portions of the sides of the crater that were overflowed and then
+exposed by the rise and fall of the water were covered with stalagmites
+formed by the deposit from the geyser.
+</p>
+<p>
+While surveying these wonders, our ears were constantly saluted by dull,
+thundering, booming sounds, resembling the reports of distant artillery.
+As we approached the spot whence they proceeded, the ground beneath us
+shook and trembled as from successive shocks of an earthquake. Ascending
+a small hillock, the cause of the uproar was found to be a mud
+volcano&mdash;the greatest marvel we have yet met with. It is about midway up
+a gentle pine-covered slope, above which on the lower side its crater,
+thirty feet in diameter, rises to a height of about thirty-five feet.
+Dense masses of steam issue with explosive force from this crater, into
+whose tapering mouth, as they are momentarily dispelled by the wind, we
+can see at a depth of about forty feet the regurgitating contents. The
+explosions are not uniform in force or time, varying from three to eight
+seconds, and occasionally with perfect regularity occurring every five
+seconds. They are very distinctly heard at the distance of half a mile,
+and the massive jets of vapor which accompany them burst forth like the
+smoke of burning gunpowder.
+</p>
+<p>
+Some of these pulsations are much more violent than others, but each one
+is accompanied by the discharge of an immense volume of steam, which at
+once shuts off all view of the inside of the crater; but sometimes,
+during the few seconds intervening between the pulsations, or when a
+breeze for a moment carries the steam to one side of the crater, we can
+see to the depth of thirty feet into the volcano, but cannot often
+discover the boiling mud; though occasionally, when there occurs an
+unusually violent spasm or concussion, a mass of mud as large in bulk as
+a hogshead is thrown up as high as our heads, emitting blinding clouds
+of steam in all directions, and crowding all observers back from the
+edge of the crater. We were led to believe that this volcano has not
+been long in existence; but that it burst forth the present summer but a
+few months ago. The green leaves and the limbs of the surrounding forest
+trees are covered with fresh clay or mud, as is also the newly grown
+grass for the distance of 180 feet from the crater. On the top branches
+of some of the trees near by&mdash;trees 150 feet high&mdash;we found particles of
+dried mud that had fallen upon the high branches in their descent just
+after this first outburst, which must have thrown the contents of the
+volcano as high as 250 or 300 feet. Mr. Hauser, whose experience as an
+engineer and with projectile forces entitles his opinion to credit,
+estimates from the particles of mud upon the high trees, and the
+distance to which they were thrown, that the mud had been thrown, in
+this explosion, to the height of between 300 and 400 feet. By actual
+measurement we found particles of this mud 186 feet from the edge of the
+crater.
+</p>
+<p>
+We did not dare to stand upon the leeward side of the crater and
+withstand the force of the steam; and Mr. Hedges, having ventured too
+near the rim on that side, endangered his life by his temerity, and was
+thrown violently down the exterior side of the crater by the force of
+the volume of steam emitted during one of these fearful convulsions.
+General Washburn and I, who saw him fall, were greatly concerned lest
+while regaining his feet, being blinded by the steam, and not knowing in
+which direction to turn, he should fall into the crater.
+</p>
+<p>
+Between the volcano, the mud geyser and the cavern spring are a number
+of hot sulphur and mud springs, of sizes varying from two to twenty feet
+in diameter, and many openings or crevices from which issue hot vapor or
+steam, the mouths of which are covered with sulphur deposits or other
+incrustations.
+</p>
+<p>
+From the mud volcano we moved up the valley about four miles to our camp
+on the river, passing several mud puffs on the way. One of the soldiers
+brought in a large string of river trout, but the water of the river is
+strongly impregnated with the overflow from springs near its bank, and
+is not palatable. Some of our party who have drank the water are feeling
+nauseated. Others think that their illness is caused by partaking too
+freely of one of the luxuries of our larder, canned peaches. I assuaged
+my thirst with the peaches, and have not partaken of the water, and
+there is no one in our camp in finer condition than I am.
+</p>
+<p>
+Lieutenant Doane's felon has caused him great suffering to-day, and I
+have appealed to him to allow me to lance it. I have for many years
+carried a lancet in my pocketbook, but I find that I have inadvertently
+left it at home. So all this day, while on horseback, I have been
+preparing for the surgical operation by sharpening my penknife on the
+leathern pommel of my saddle as I rode along. I have in my seamless sack
+a few simple medicines, including a vial of chloroform. Lieutenant Doane
+has almost agreed to let me open the felon, provided I put him to sleep
+with the chloroform; but I feel that I am too much of a novice in the
+business to administer it. However, I have told him that I would do so
+if he demanded it. Our elevation to-day is about 7,500 feet above sea
+level.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, September 3</b>.&mdash;This morning General Washburn and I left camp
+immediately after breakfast and returned four miles on our track of
+September 1st to Crater Hill and the mud springs, for the purpose of
+making farther examinations. We found the sulphur boiling spring to be
+full to overflowing, the water running down the inclined surface of the
+crust in two different directions. It was also boiling with greater
+force than it was when we first saw it, the water being occasionally
+thrown up to the height of ten feet. About 80 or 100 yards from this
+spring we found what we had not before discovered, a boiling spring of
+tartaric acid in solution, with deposits around the edge of the spring,
+of which we gathered a considerable quantity. In the basin where we had
+found so many mud springs we to-day found a hot boiling spring
+containing a substance of deep yellow color, the precise nature of which
+we could not readily ascertain. We accordingly brought away some of it
+in a bottle (as is our usual custom in such cases of uncertainty), and
+we will have an analysis of it made on our return home. In the same
+basin we also found some specimens of black lava.
+</p>
+<p>
+A half mile south of these springs we found an alum spring yielding but
+little water and surrounded with beautiful alum crystals. From its
+border we obtained a great many curiously shaped deposits of alum
+slightly impregnated with iron. The border of this spring below the
+surface had been undermined in many places by the violent boiling of the
+water, to the distance of several feet from the margin, so that it was
+unsafe to stand near the edge of the spring. This, however, I did not
+at first perceive; and, as I was unconcernedly passing by the spring, my
+weight made the border suddenly slough off beneath my feet. General
+Washburn noticed the sudden cracking of the incrustation before I did,
+and I was aroused to a sense of my peril by his shout of alarm, and had
+sufficient presence of mind to fall suddenly backwards at full length
+upon the sound crust, whence, with my feet and legs extended over the
+spring, I rolled to a place of safety. But for General Washburn's shout
+of alarm, in another instant I would have been precipitated into this
+boiling pool of alum. We endeavored to sound the depth of this spring
+with a pole twenty-five feet long, but we found no bottom.
+</p>
+<p>
+Everything around us&mdash;air, earth, water&mdash;is impregnated with sulphur. We
+feel it in every drop of water we drink, and in every breath of air we
+inhale. Our silver watches have turned to the color of poor brass,
+tarnished.
+</p>
+<p>
+General Washburn and I again visited the mud vulcano to-day. I
+especially desired to see it again for the one especial purpose, among
+others of a general nature, of assuring myself that the notes made in my
+diary a few days ago are not exaggerated. No! they are not! The
+sensations inspired in me to-day, on again witnessing its convulsions,
+and the dense clouds of vapor expelled in rapid succession from its
+crater, amid the jarring of the earth, and the ominous intonations from
+beneath, were those of mingled dread and wonder. At war with all former
+experience it was so novel, so unnaturally natural, that I feel while
+now writing and thinking of it, as if my own senses might have deceived
+me with a mere figment of the imagination. But it is not so. The wonder,
+than which this continent, teeming with nature's grandest exhibitions,
+contains nothing more marvelous, still stands amid the solitary
+fastnesses of the Yellowstone, to excite the astonishment of the
+thousands who in coming years shall visit that remarkable locality.[<a href="#note-J">J</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+Returning to the camp we had left in the morning, we found the train had
+crossed the river, and we forded at the same place, visiting, however,
+on our way another large cauldron of boiling mud lying nearly opposite
+our camp. Soon after fording the river we discovered some evidence that
+trappers had long ago visited this region. Here we found that the earth
+had been thrown up two feet high, presenting an angle to the river,
+quite ingeniously concealed by willows, and forming a sort of rifle-pit,
+from which a hunter without disclosing his hiding place could bring down
+swans, geese, ducks, pelicans, and even the furred animals that made
+their homes along the river bank.
+</p>
+<p>
+We followed the trail of the advance party along the bank of the river,
+and most of the way through a dense forest of pine timber and over a
+broad swampy lowland, when we came into their camp on the Yellowstone
+lake two miles from where it empties into the river, and about ten miles
+from our morning camp. We passed Brimstone basin on our left, and saw
+jets of steam rising from the hills back of it. From all appearances the
+Yellowstone can be forded at almost any point between the rapids just
+above the upper fall and the lake, unless there are quicksands and
+crevices which must be avoided.
+</p>
+<p>
+Yellowstone lake, as seen from our camp to-night, seems to me to be the
+most beautiful body of water in the world. In front of our camp it has a
+wide sandy beach like that of the ocean, which extends for miles and as
+far as the eye can reach, save that occasionally there is to be found a
+sharp projection of rocks. The overlooking bench rises from the water's
+edge about eight feet, forming a bank of sand or natural levee, which
+serves to prevent the overflow of the land adjoining, which, when the
+lake is receiving the water from the mountain streams that empty into it
+while the snows are melting, is several feet below the surface of the
+lake. On the shore of the lake, within three or four miles of our camp,
+are to be found specimens of sandstone, resembling clay, of sizes
+varying from that of a walnut to a flour barrel, and of every odd shape
+imaginable. Fire and water have been at work here together&mdash;fire to
+throw out the deposit in a rough shape, and water to polish it. From our
+camp we can see several islands from five to ten miles distant in a
+direct line. Two of the three "Tetons," which are so plainly visible to
+travelers going to Montana from Eagle Rock bridge on Snake river, and
+which are such well-known and prominent landmarks on that stage route,
+we notice to-night in the direction of south 25 degrees west from our
+camp. We shall be nearer to them on our journey around the lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, September 4</b>.&mdash;This morning at breakfast time Lieutenant Doane
+was sleeping soundly and snoring sonorously, and we decided that we
+would not waken him, but would remain in camp till the afternoon and
+perhaps until morning. Walter Trumbull suggested that a proper deference
+to Jake Smith's religious sentiments ought to be a sufficient reason
+for not traveling on Sunday, whereupon Jake immediately exclaimed, "If
+we're going to remain in camp, let's have a game of draw."
+</p>
+<p>
+Last evening Lieutenant Doane's sufferings were so intense that General
+Washburn and I insisted that he submit to an operation, and have the
+felon opened, and he consented provided I would administer chloroform.
+Preparations were accordingly made after supper. A box containing army
+cartridges was improvised as an operating table, and I engaged Mr. Bean,
+one of our packers, and Mr. Hedges as assistant surgeons. Hedges was to
+take his position at Doarte's elbow, and was to watch my motion as I
+thrust in the knife blade, and hold the elbow and fore-arm firmly to
+prevent any involuntary drawing back of the arm by Lieutenant Doane, at
+the critical moment. When Doane was told that we were ready, he asked,
+"Where is the chloroform?" I replied that I had never administered it,
+and that after thinking the matter over I was afraid to assume the
+responsibility of giving it. He swallowed his disappointment, and turned
+his thumb over on the cartridge box, with the nail down. Hedges and Bean
+were on hand to steady the arm, and before one could say "Jack
+Robinson," I had inserted the point of my penknife, thrusting it down to
+the bone, and had ripped it out to the end of the thumb. Doane gave one
+shriek as the released corruption flew out in all directions upon
+surgeon and assistants, and then with a broad smile on his face he
+exclaimed, "That was elegant!" We then applied a poultice of bread and
+water, which we renewed a half hour later, and Doane at about eight
+o'clock last night dropped off into a seemingly peaceful sleep, which
+has been continuous up to the time of this writing, two o'clock p.m.[<a href="#note-K">K</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Evening of September 4</b>.&mdash;I have been glad to have this rest to-day, for
+with the time spent in writing up a detailed diary in addition to the
+work about camp, I have been putting in about sixteen hours work each
+day. So this afternoon a nap of two or three hours was a pleasant rest.
+I strolled for a long distance down the shore, the sand of which abounds
+in small crystals, which some of our party think may possess some value.
+Craters emitting steam through the water are frequently seen beneath the
+surface, at a distance of from forty to fifty feet from its margin, the
+water in which is very hot, while that of the lake surrounding them I
+found to be too cool for a pleasant bath. In some places the lake water
+is strongly impregnated with sulphur. One crater emits a jet of steam
+with a hissing noise as loud as that usually heard at the blowing off of
+the safety valve of a steam-boat. In the clear light of the setting sun,
+we can see the three Tetons in a southwesterly direction.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-25"><!-- Image 25 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/228.jpg" width="450" height="649"
+alt="Grand Teton.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Some member of our party has asked what is the meaning of the word
+"Teton" given to these mountains.[<a href="#note-L">L</a>] Lieutenant Doane says it is a
+French word signifying "Woman's Breast," and that it was given to these
+mountains by the early French explorers, because of their peculiar
+shape. I think that the man who gave them this name must have seen them
+from a great distance; for as we approach them, the graceful curvilinear
+lines which obtained for them this delicate appellation appear angular
+and ragged. From our present point of view the name seems a misnomer. If
+there were twelve of them instead of three, they might better be called
+the "Titans," to illustrate their relation to the surrounding country.
+He indeed must have been of a most susceptible nature, and, I would fain
+believe, long a dweller amid these solitudes, who could trace in these
+cold and barren peaks any resemblance to the gentle bosom of woman.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Monday, September 5</b>.&mdash;Lieutenant Doane continued to sleep all last
+night, making a thirty-six hours nap, and after dressing his thumb and
+taking an observation to determine our elevation, which we found to be
+7714 feet above the ocean, we broke camp at nine o'clock. After the
+train had got under way, I asked Mr. Hedges to remain behind and assist
+me in measuring, by a rude system of triangulation, the distance across
+the lake as well as to the Tetons; but owing to the difficulty we
+encountered in laying out a base line of sufficient length, we abandoned
+the scheme after some two hours of useless labor.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-26"><!-- Image 26 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/109.png" width="450" height="263"
+alt="Slate Specimens from Curiosity Point. Slate Cup. Leg and Foot.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Following the trail of the advance party, we traveled along the lake
+beach for about six miles, passing a number of small hot sulphur springs
+and lukewarm sulphur ponds, and three hot steam jets surrounded by
+sulphur incrustations. After six miles, we left the beach, and traveled
+on the plateau overlooking the lake. This plateau was covered with a
+luxuriant growth of standing pine and a great deal of fallen timber,
+through which at times considerable difficulty was experienced in
+passing. A little way from the trail is an alkaline spring about six
+feet in diameter. We came to camp on the shore of the lake, after having
+marched fifteen miles in a southerly direction. We have a most beautiful
+view of the lake from our camp. Yesterday it lay before us calm and
+unruffled, save by the waves which gently broke upon the shore. To-day
+the winds lash it into a raging sea, covering its surface with foam,
+while the sparkling sand along the shore seems to form for it a jeweled
+setting, and the long promontories stretching out into it, with their
+dense covering of pines, lend a charming feature to the scene. Water
+never seemed so beautiful before. Waves four feet high are rolling in,
+and there appear to be six or seven large islands; but we cannot be
+certain about this number until we reach the south shore. From this
+point we cannot tell whether the wooded hills before us are islands or
+promontories. On the shore are to be found large numbers of carnelians
+or crystallized quartz, agates, specimens of petrified wood, and lava
+pebbles or globules. We have found also many curious objects of slate
+formation, resembling hollowed-out cups, discs, and two well formed
+resemblances of a leg and foot, and many other curious objects which
+Nature in her most capricious mood has scattered over this watery
+solitude. All these seem to be the joint production of fire and water;
+the fire forming and baking them, and the water polishing them. We
+called this place "Curiosity Point."
+</p>
+<p>
+If Mount Washington were set in the lake, its summit would be two
+thousand feet below the surface of the water.
+</p>
+<p>
+To-night a conference of the party was held, to decide whether we would
+continue our journey around the lake, or retrace our steps and pass
+along the north side of the lake over to the Madison. By a vote of six
+to three we have decided to go around the lake. Mr. Hauser voted in
+favor of returning by way of the north side. My vote was cast for going
+around the lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+As we passed along the shore to-day, we could see the steam rising from
+a large group of hot springs on the opposite shore of the lake bordering
+on what seems to be the most westerly bay or estuary.[<a href="#note-M">M</a>] We will have an
+opportunity to examine them at short range, when we have completed our
+journey around the lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, September 6</b>.&mdash;We broke camp at ten thirty this morning,
+bearing well to the southeast for an hour and then turning nearly due
+south, our trail running through the woods, and for a large part of our
+route throughout the day, through fallen timber, which greatly impeded
+our progress. We did not make over ten miles in our day's travel.
+Frequently we were obliged to leave the trail running through the woods,
+and return to the lake, and follow the beach for some distance. We
+passed along the base of a brimstone basin, the mountains forming a
+semi-circle half way around it, the lake completing the circle. In
+company with Lieutenant Doane I went up the side of the mountain, which
+for the distance of three or four miles and about half way to the summit
+is covered with what appears to be sulphate (?) of lime and flowers of
+sulphur mixed. Exhalations are rising from all parts of the ground at
+times, the odor of brimstone being quite strong; but the volcanic action
+in this vicinity is evidently decreasing.
+</p>
+<p>
+About half way up the deposit on the mountain side a number of small
+rivulets take their rise, having sulphur in solution, and farther down
+the mountain and near the base are the dry beds of several streams from
+ten to twenty feet in width which bear evidence of having at some time
+been full to the banks (two or three feet deep) with sulphur water. The
+small streams now running are warm.
+</p>
+<p>
+The side of the mountain over which we rode, seems for the most part to
+be hollow, giving forth a rumbling sound beneath the feet, as we rode
+upon the crust, which is very strong. In no instance did it give way as
+did the crust at "Crater hill," under which the fires were raging,
+though the incrustation appears to be very similar, abounding in vents
+and fissures and emitting suffocating exhalations of sulphur vapor.
+</p>
+<p>
+On the sides of the mountain were old fissures, surrounded by rusty
+looking sulphur incrustations, now nearly washed away. The whole
+mountain gives evidence of having been, a long time ago, in just the
+same condition of conflagration as that in which we found "Crater hill;"
+but all outward trace of fire has now disappeared, save what is found in
+the warm water of the small streams running down the sides.
+</p>
+<p>
+Our course for the past two days has been in nearly a south-southeast
+direction, or about parallel with the Wind river mountains. We have
+to-day seen an abundance of the tracks of elk and bears, and
+occasionally the track of a mountain lion.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, September 7</b>.&mdash;Last night when all but the guards were asleep,
+we were startled by a mountain lion's shrill scream, sounding so like
+the human voice that for a moment I was deceived by it into believing
+that some traveler in distress was hailing our camp. The stream near the
+bank of which our camp lay, flows into the southeast arm of Yellowstone
+lake, and for which the name "Upper Yellowstone" has been suggested by
+some of our party; but Lieutenant Doane says that he thinks he has seen
+on an old map the name "Bridger" given to some body of water near the
+Yellowstone. We tried to cross the river near its mouth, but found the
+mud in the bed of the stream and in the bottom lands adjoining too deep;
+our horses miring down to their bellies. In accordance with plans agreed
+upon last night, General Washburn and a few of the party started out
+this morning in advance of the others to search for a practicable
+crossing of the river and marshes, leaving the pack train in camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+In company with Lieutenant Doane I went out upon a reconnaissance for
+the purpose of determining the elevation of the mountains opposite our
+camp, as well as the shape of the lake as far as we could see the
+shore, and also to determine as far as possible our locality and the
+best line of travel to follow in passing around the lake. There is just
+enough excitement attending these scouting expeditions to make them a
+real pleasure, overbalancing the labor attendant upon them. There is
+very little probability that any large band of Indians will be met with
+on this side of the lake, owing to the superstitions which originate in
+the volcanic forces here found.
+</p>
+<p>
+We followed along the high bank adjacent to the bottom through which the
+river runs in a direction a little south of east for the distance of
+about three miles, when we entered a heavily timbered ravine, which we
+followed through the underbrush for some three miles, being frequently
+obliged to dismount and lead our horses over the projecting rocks, or
+plunging through bushes and fallen timber. At the end of two hours we
+reached a point in the ascent where we could no longer ride in safety,
+nor could our horses climb the mountain side with the weight of our
+bodies on their backs. Dismounting, we took the bridle reins in our
+hands, and for the space of an hour we led our horses up the steep
+mountain side, when we again mounted and slowly climbed on our way,
+occasionally stopping to give our horses a chance to breathe. Arriving
+at the limit of timber and of vegetation, we tied our horses, and then
+commenced the ascent of the steepest part of the mountain, over the
+broken granite, great care being necessary to avoid sliding down the
+mountain side with the loose granite. The ascent occupied us a little
+more than four hours, and all along the mountain side, even to near the
+summit, we saw the tracks of mountain sheep. The view from the summit of
+this mountain, for wild and rugged grandeur, is surpassed by none I ever
+before saw. The Yellowstone basin and the Wind river mountains were
+spread out before us like a map. On the south the eye followed the
+source of the Yellowstone above the lake, until, twenty-five miles away,
+it was lost in an immense ca&ntilde;on, beyond which two immense jets of vapor
+rose to a height of probably three hundred feet, indicating that there
+were other and perhaps greater wonders than those embraced in our
+prescribed limit of exploration. On the north the outlet of the lake and
+the steam from the mud geyser and mud volcano were distinctly visible,
+while on the southeast the view followed to the horizon a succession of
+lofty peaks and ridges at least thirty miles in width, whose jagged
+slopes were filled with yawning caverns, pine-embowered recesses and
+beetling precipices, some hundreds and some thousands of feet in height.
+This is the range which Captain Raynolds, approaching from the east,
+found impassable while on his exploring tour to the Yellowstone in the
+year 1860. I shall, upon my return home, read Captain Raynolds' report
+with renewed interest.[<a href="#note-N">N</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+The mountain on which we stood was the most westerly peak of a range
+which, in long extended volume, swept to the southeastern horizon,
+exhibiting a continuous elevation more than thirty miles in width, its
+central line broken into countless points, knobs, glens and defiles, all
+on the most colossal scale of grandeur and magnificence. Outside of
+these, on either border, along the entire range, lofty peaks rose at
+intervals, seemingly vying with each other in the varied splendors they
+presented to the beholder. The scene was full of majesty. The valley at
+the base of this range was dotted with small lakes. Lakes abound
+everywhere&mdash;in the valleys, on the mountains and farther down on their
+slopes, at all elevations. The appearance of the whole range was
+suggestive of the existence, ages since, of a high plateau on a level
+with these peaks (which seemed to be all of the same elevation), which
+by the action of the water had been cut down in the intervals between
+the peaks into deep gorges and ca&ntilde;ons. The sides of the mountains formed
+in many places a perpendicular wall from 600 to 1,000 feet in height.
+</p>
+<p>
+This range of mountains has a marvelous history. As it is the loftiest,
+so it is probably the most remarkable lateral ridge of the Rocky range.
+In the expedition sent across the continent by Mr. Astor, in 1811, under
+command of Captain Wilson P. Hunt, that gentleman met with the first
+serious obstacle to his progress at the eastern base of this range.
+After numerous efforts to scale it, he turned away and followed the
+valley of Snake river, encountering the most discouraging disasters
+until he arrived at Astoria.[<a href="#note-O">O</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+I have read somewhere (I think in Washington Irving's "Astoria" or
+"Bonneville's Adventures") that the Indians regard this ridge of
+mountains as the crest of the world, and that among the Blackfeet there
+is a fable that he who attains its summit catches a view of the "Land of
+Souls" and beholds the "Happy Hunting Grounds" spread out below him,
+brightening with the abodes of the free and generous spirits.
+</p>
+<p>
+Lieutenant Doane and I were somewhat fatigued with our climb of four
+hours' duration, and we refreshed ourselves with such creature comforts
+as we found on the summit; but, although we attained the "crest," we did
+not discern any "free and generous spirit," save that which we saw
+"through a glass darkly."
+</p>
+<p>
+At the point where we left our horses there was, on the east slope of
+the mountain, a body of snow, the surface of which was nearly
+horizontal, and the outer edge of which was thirty feet in perpendicular
+height. This body of snow is perpetual. At this point the elevation, as
+indicated by our aneroid barometer, was 9,476 feet, while at the summit
+it was 10,327 feet, a difference of 581 feet, which was the broken
+granite summit.
+</p>
+<p>
+The descent occupied an hour and a quarter, when we struck the trail of
+the pack train near the base of the mountain, which we followed until we
+found three poles placed in the form of a tripod, the longer pole
+pointing to the right to indicate that at this point the party had
+changed its course.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-27"><!-- Image 27 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/117.png" width="450" height="222"
+alt="Marker made from sticks">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Obeying this Indian sign, we descended the bank bordering the valley and
+traversed the bottom lands to the river, which we forded at a point
+where it was about ninety feet wide and three feet deep, with a current
+of about six miles an hour. This was about six or seven miles from the
+mouth of the river. We followed the trail of the advance party through a
+beautiful pine forest, free from underbrush, for the distance of two
+miles, passing two beautiful lakes. By this time night had overtaken us,
+and it was with difficulty that we could follow the trail, the tracks of
+the horses' shoes, which were our sole guide, being hardly discernible.
+But we pressed on, following the dark, serpentine line of freshly
+disturbed earth till it turned up the side of the mountain, where we
+followed it for upwards of a mile. Fearing lest we were not upon the
+right trail, we dismounted, and, placing our faces close to the ground,
+examined it carefully, but could not discover the impression of a single
+horseshoe. Gathering a few dry branches of pine, we kindled a fire upon
+the trail, when we discovered that we had been following, from the base
+of the mountain, the trail of a band of elk that had crossed the line of
+travel of the pack train at a point near the base of the mountain, and
+in the dim twilight we had not discovered the mistake.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-28"><!-- Image 28 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/118.png" width="450" height="558"
+alt="Map of Yellowstone Lake, As Known Between 1860 and 1870. from the Map of Raynolds' Expedition of 1860.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The prospect for a night on the mountain, without blankets or supper,
+seemed now very good; but we retraced our steps as rapidly as possible,
+and on reaching the base of the mountain, struck out for the lake,
+resolving to follow the beach, trusting that our party had made their
+camp on the shore of the lake, in which case we should find them; but
+if camped at any considerable distance from the shore, we should not
+find them. Our ride over fallen timber and through morass for the
+distance of about two miles to the shore of the lake was probably
+performed more skillfully in the darkness of the night than if we had
+seen the obstacles in our path, and as we rounded a point on the smooth
+beach we saw at a distance of a little over a mile the welcome watch
+fire of our comrades. When we arrived within hailing distance we gave a
+loud halloo, and the ready response by a dozen sympathetic voices of our
+companions-in-arms showed that our own anxiety had been shared by them.
+Our camp to-night is on the westerly side of the most southeasterly bay
+of the lake. These bays are separated by long points of land extending
+far out into the lake. From our camp of two days ago some of these
+points seemed to be islands. From the top of the mountain, which Doane
+and I ascended to-day, I made an outline map of the north and east sides
+of the lake and part of the south side; but on account of the heavy
+timber on the promontories I could not make a correct outline of the
+south and west shores. General Washburn and Hauser, as well as myself,
+have thus far made outlines of the lake shore as best we could from
+points on a level with the lake, but these have been unsatisfactory and
+have lacked completeness, and Washburn and Hauser have both expressed
+their satisfaction with the sketch of the lake shore I made to-day from
+the top of the mountain; and Washburn has just told me that Lieutenant
+Doane has suggested that, as I was the first to reach the summit of the
+mountain, the peak should be named for me. I shall be gratified if this
+is done.[<a href="#note-P">P</a>]
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-29"><!-- Image 29 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/119.png" width="450" height="537"
+alt="Map of Yellowstone Lake. Copy of the Original outline Sketched by Nathaniel P. Langford from the Top of Mount Langford, Sept. 7, 1870, and Completed Sept. 10 and 13.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+We have traveled from our morning camp about twelve miles, but we are
+not more than four miles from it in a straight line.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, September 8</b>.&mdash;Travel to-day has led us in zigzag directions
+over fallen timber some twelve miles. We have halted on a small creek
+about one mile from the most southerly arm of the lake and about seven
+miles in a straight line from our morning camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+This has been a terrible day for both men and horses. The standing trees
+are so thick that we often found it impossible to find a space wide
+enough for the pack animals to squeeze through, and we were frequently
+separated from each other in a search for a route. Hedges and Stickney,
+in this way, became separated from the rest of the party, and after
+suffering all the feelings of desolation at being lost in this
+wilderness, accidentally stumbled upon our camp, and they freely
+expressed their joy at their good fortune in being restored to the
+party. I fully sympathized with them, for, speaking from a personal
+experience of a similar character which I had in 1862, I can say that a
+man can have no more complete sense of utter desolation than that which
+overwhelms him when he realizes that he is lost.
+</p>
+<p>
+At one point while they were seeking some sign of the trail made by the
+rest of the party, a huge grizzly bear dashed by them, frightening
+Hedges' horse, which broke his bridle and ran away.
+</p>
+<p>
+After supper Washburn and Hauser went up on the ridge back of the camp
+to reconnoiter and ran across a she grizzly and her two cubs. Being
+unarmed, they hastily returned to camp for their guns, and five or six
+of us joined them in a bear hunt. The members of this hunting party were
+all elated at the thought of bagging a fine grizzly, which seemed an
+easy prey. What could one grizzly do against six hunters when her
+instinctive duty would lead her to hurry her little ones to a place of
+safety!
+</p>
+<p>
+While putting our guns in order and making other preparations for the
+attack, an animated discussion took place concerning a proper
+disposition of the two cubs which were to be captured alive. Some of our
+party thought that they ought to be carried home to Helena, but Bean and
+Reynolds, our packers, being appealed to, thought the plan not feasible
+unless they could be utilized as pack animals. When we reached the spot
+where Washburn and Hauser had last seen the bear, we traced her into a
+dense thicket, which, owing to the darkness, we did not care to
+penetrate, for not one of us felt that we had lost that particular bear.
+Jake Smith, with more of good sense than usual, but with his usual lack
+of scriptural accuracy, remarked, "I always considered Daniel a great
+fool to go into a den of bears."[<a href="#note-Q">Q</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+Our journey for the entire day has been most trying, leading us through
+a trackless forest of pines encumbered on all sides by prostrate trunks
+of trees. The difficulty of urging forward our pack train, making choice
+of routes, extricating the horses when wedged between the trees, and
+re-adjusting the packs so that they would not project beyond the
+sides of the horses, required constant patience and untiring toil,
+and the struggle between our own docility and the obstacles in our way,
+not unfrequently resulted in fits of sullenness or explosions of wrath
+which bore no slight resemblance to the volcanic forces of the country
+itself.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-30"><!-- Image 30 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/229.jpg" width="300" height="453"
+alt="Benj. Stickney">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+On one of these occasions when we were in a vast net of down timber and
+brush, and each man was insisting upon his own particular mode of
+extrication, and when our tempers had been sorely tried and we were in
+the most unsocial of humors, speaking only in half angry expletives, I
+recalled that beautiful line in Byron's "Childe Harold," "There is a
+pleasure in the pathless woods," which I recited with all the "ore
+rotundo" I could command, which struck the ludicrous vein of the company
+and produced an instantaneous response of uproarious laughter, which, so
+sudden is the transition between extremes, had the effect to restore
+harmony and sociability, and, in fact, to create a pleasure in the
+pathless wilderness we were traveling.
+</p>
+<p>
+One of our pack horses is at once a source of anxiety and amusement to
+us all. He is a remarkable animal owned by Judge Hedges, who, however,
+makes no pretentious to being a good judge of horses. Mr. Hedges says
+that the man from whom he purchased the animal, in descanting upon his
+many excellent qualities, said: "He is that kind of an animal that
+drives the whole herd before him." The man spoke truly, but Mr. Hedges
+did not properly interpret the encomium, nor did he realize that the
+seller meant to declare that the animal, from sheer exhaustion, would
+always be lagging behind the others of the herd. From the start, and
+especially during our journey through the forest, this pony, by his
+acrobatic performances and mishaps, has furnished much amusement for us
+all. Progress to-day could only be accomplished by leaping our animals
+over the fallen trunks of trees. Our little broncho, with all the
+spirit necessary, lacks oftentimes the power to scale the tree trunks.
+As a consequence, he is frequently found resting upon his midriff with
+his fore and hind feet suspended over the opposite sides of some huge
+log. "The spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh is weak." He has an
+ambitious spirit, which is exceeded only by his patience. He has had
+many mishaps, any one of which would have permanently disabled a larger
+animal, and we have dubbed him "Little Invulnerable." One of the
+soldiers of our escort, Private Moore, has made a sketch of him as he
+appeared to-day lying across a log, of which I am to have a copy.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-31"><!-- Image 31 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/230.jpg" width="450" height="779"
+alt="Little invulnerable.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+I growled at Hauser and scolded him a little in camp to-night because of
+some exasperating action of his. I here record the fact without going
+into details. I think that I must try to be more patient. But I am
+feeling somewhat the fatigue of our journey. However, there is something
+to be said on the other hand, and that is that there is no one of the
+party better able to bear its labors and anxieties than I, and therefore
+I should be the last man to lose my patience.
+</p>
+<p>
+I know of nothing that can try one's patience more than a trip of any
+considerable length by wagon train or pack train through an uninhabited
+region, and the most amiable of our race cannot pass this ordeal
+entirely unscathed. Persons who are not blessed with uncommon equanimity
+never get through such a journey without frequent explosions of temper,
+and seldom without violence. Even education, gentle training and the
+sharpest of mental discipline do not always so effectually subdue the
+passions that they may not be aroused into unwonted fury during a long
+journey through a country filled with obstructions. Philosophy has never
+found a fitter subject for its exercise than that afforded by the
+journey we are now making, which obliges the members of our party to
+strive to relieve each other's burdens.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Friday, September 9</b>.&mdash;Last night there occurred an incident which I
+would gladly blot from these pages, but a faithful record of all the
+events of camp life in connection with this expedition demands that I
+omit nothing of interest, nor set down "aught in malice."
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges and I were on guard during the last relief of the night,
+which extends from the "Wee sma' hours ayont the twal" to daybreak. The
+night was wearing on when Hedges, being tempted of one of the Devils
+which doubtless roam around this sulphurous region, or that perhaps
+followed Lieutenant Doane and myself down from that "high mountain
+apart" where the spirits roam, asked me if I was hungry. I replied that
+such had been my normal condition ever since our larder had perceptibly
+declined. Mr. Hedges then suggested that, as there was no food already
+cooked in the camp, we take each a wing of one of the partridges and
+broil it over our small fire. It was a "beautiful thought," as Judge
+Bradford of Colorado used to say from the bench when some knotty legal
+problem relating to a case he was trying had been solved, and was
+speedily acted upon by both of us. But I was disappointed in finding so
+little meat on a partridge wing, and believed that Hedges would have
+chosen a leg instead of a wing, if he had pondered a moment, so I
+remedied the omission, and, as a result, each roasted a leg of the bird.
+Soon increase of appetite grew by what it fed on, and the breast of the
+bird was soon on the broiler.
+</p>
+<p>
+In the meantime our consciences were not idle, and we were "pricked in
+our hearts." The result was that we had a vision of the disappointment
+of our comrades, as each should receive at our morning breakfast his
+small allotment of but one partridge distributed among so many, and it
+did not take us long to send the remaining bird to join its mate. Taking
+into consideration the welfare of our comrades, it seemed the best thing
+for us to do, and we debated between ourselves whether the birds would
+be missed in the morning, Hedges taking the affirmative and I the
+negative side of the question.
+</p>
+<p>
+This morning when our breakfast was well nigh finished, Mr. Hauser asked
+"Newt," the head cook, why he had not prepared the partridges for
+breakfast. "Newt" answered that when he opened the pan this morning the
+birds had "done gone," and he thought that "Booby" (the dog) had eaten
+them. Whereupon Hauser pelted the dog with stones and sticks. Hedges and
+I, nearly bursting with our suppressed laughter, quietly exchanged
+glances across the table, and the situation became quite intense for us,
+as we strove to restrain our risibles while listening to the comments of
+the party on the utter worthlessness of "that dog Booby." Suddenly the
+camp was electrified by Gillette asking, "Who was on guard last night?"
+"That's it," said one. "That's where the birds went," said another. This
+denouement was too much for Hedges and myself, and amid uproarious
+laughter we made confession, and "Booby" was relieved from his disgrace
+and called back into the camp, and patted on the head as a "good dog,"
+and he has now more friends in camp than ever before.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hauser, who brought down the birds with two well directed shots with
+his revolver, made from the back of his horse without halting the
+animal, had expected to have a dainty breakfast, but he is himself too
+fond of a practical joke to express any disappointment, and no one in
+the party is more unconcerned at the outcome than he. He is a
+philosopher, and, as I know from eight years' association with him, does
+not worry over the evils which he can remedy, nor those which he cannot
+remedy. There can be found no better man than he for such a trip as we
+are making.
+</p>
+<p>
+"Booby" is taking more kindly, day by day, to the buckskin moccasins
+which "Newt" made and tied on his feet a few days ago. When he was first
+shod with them he rebelled and tore them off with his teeth, but I think
+he has discovered that they lessen his sufferings, which shows that he
+has some good dog sense left, and that probably his name "Booby" is a
+misnomer. I think there is a great deal of good in the animal. He is
+ever on the alert for unusual noises or sounds, and the assurance which
+I have that he will give the alarm in case any thieving Indians shall
+approach our camp in the night is a great relief to my anxiety lest some
+straggling band of the Crows may "set us afoot." Jake Smith was on guard
+three nights ago, and he was so indifferent to the question of safety
+from attack that he enjoyed a comfortable nap while doing guard duty,
+and I have asked our artist, Private Moore, to make for me a sketch of
+Smith as I found him sound asleep with his saddle for a pillow. Jake
+might well adopt as a motto suitable for his guidance while doing guard
+duty, "Requieseat in pace." Doubtless Jake thought, "Shall I not take
+mine ease in mine inn?" I say <i>thought</i> for I doubt if Jake can give a
+correct verbal rendering of the sentence. A few evenings ago he jocosely
+thought to establish, by a quotation from Shakespeare, the unreliability
+of a member of our party who was telling what seemed a "fish story," and
+he clinched his argument by adding that he would apply to the case the
+words of the immortal Shakespeare, "Othello's <i>reputation's</i> gone."
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-32"><!-- Image 32 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/231.jpg" width="450" height="470"
+alt="Jake Smith, Guarding the Camp from Hostile indian attack. 'Requiescat in Pace.'">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+We broke camp this morning with the pack train at 10 o'clock, traveling
+in a westerly course for about two miles, when we gradually veered
+around to a nearly easterly direction, through fallen timber almost
+impassable in the estimation of pilgrims, and indeed pretty severe on
+our pack horses, for there was no trail, and, while our saddle horses
+with their riders could manage to force their way through between the
+trees, the packs on the pack animals would frequently strike the trees,
+holding the animals fast or compelling them to seek some other passage.
+Frequently, we were obliged to re-arrange the packs and narrow them, so
+as to admit of their passage between the standing trees. At one point
+the pack animals became separated, and with the riding animals of a
+portion of the party were confronted with a prostrate trunk of a huge
+tree, about four feet in diameter, around which it was impossible to
+pass because of the obstructions of fallen timber. Yet pass it we must;
+and the animals, one after another, were brought up to the log, their
+breasts touching it, when Williamson and I, the two strongest men of the
+party, on either side of an animal, stooped down, and, placing each a
+shoulder back of a fore leg of a horse, rose to an erect position, while
+others of the party placed his fore feet over the log, which he was thus
+enabled to scale. In this way we lifted fifteen or twenty of our animals
+over the log.
+</p>
+<p>
+Soon after leaving our camp this morning our "Little Invulnerable,"
+while climbing a steep rocky ascent, missed his footing and turned three
+back summersaults down into the bottom of the ravine. We assisted him to
+his feet without removing his pack, and he seemed none the worse for his
+adventure, and quickly regained the ridge from which he had fallen and
+joined the rest of the herd.
+</p>
+<p>
+At 3 o'clock in the afternoon we halted for the day, having traveled
+about six miles, but our camp to-night is not more than three miles from
+our morning camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges' pack horse, "Little Invulnerable," was missing when we
+camped; and, as I was one of the four men detailed for the day to take
+charge of the pack train, I returned two miles on our trail with the two
+packers, Reynolds and Bean, in search of him. We found him wedged
+between two trees, evidently enjoying a rest, which he sorely needed
+after his remarkable acrobatic feat of the morning. We are camped in a
+basin not far from the lake, which surrounds us on three sides&mdash;east,
+north and west. Mr. Everts has not yet come into camp, and we fear that
+he is lost.
+</p>
+<p>
+About noon we crossed a small stream that flows towards the southwest
+arm of the lake, but which, I think, is one of the headwater streams of
+Snake river. I think that we have crossed the main divide of the Rocky
+Mountains twice to-day. We have certainly crossed it once, and if we
+have not crossed it twice we are now camped on the western slope of the
+main divide. If the creek we crossed about noon to-day continues to flow
+in the direction it was running at the point where we crossed it, it
+must discharge into the southwest arm of the lake, and it seems probable
+that Mr. Everts has followed down this stream.
+</p>
+<p>
+I have just had a little talk with Lieutenant Doane. He thinks that our
+camp to-night is on the Snake river side of the main divide, and there
+are many things that incline me to believe that he is correct in his
+opinion.[<a href="#note-R">R</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+Last night we had a discussion, growing out of the fact that Hedges and
+Stickney, for a brief time, were lost, for the purpose of deciding what
+course we would adopt in case any other member of the party were lost,
+and we agreed that in such case we would all move on as rapidly as
+possible to the southwest arm of the lake, where there are hot springs
+(the vapor of which we noticed from our camp of September 5th), and
+there remain until all the party were united. Everts thought a better
+way for a lost man would be to strike out nearly due west, hoping to
+reach the headwaters of the Madison river, and follow that stream as his
+guide to the settlements; but he finally abandoned this idea and adopted
+that which has been approved by the rest of the party. So if Mr. Everts
+does not come into camp to-night, we will to-morrow start for the
+appointed rendezvous.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, September 10</b>.&mdash;We broke camp about 10 o'clock this morning,
+taking a course of about ten degrees north of west, traveling seven
+miles, and coming to camp on the lake shore at about five miles in a
+direct line from our morning camp at half past two p.m. No sign of Mr.
+Everts has been seen to-day, and on our arrival in camp, Gillette and
+Trumbull took the return track upon the shore of the lake, hoping to
+find him, or discover some sign of him. A large fire was built on a high
+ridge commanding all points on the beach, and we fired signal guns from
+time to time throughout the night.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hauser and I ascended a high point overlooking our camp, and about
+eight hundred feet above it, where from the top of a tall tree I had a
+fairly good view of the shore outline of the west and south shores of
+the lake, with all the inlets, points and islands. We were also enabled
+to mark out our course of travel which it would be necessary to follow
+in order to reach the most southwesterly arm of the lake and take
+advantage of openings in the timber to facilitate travel. On this high
+point we built a large fire which could be seen for many miles in all
+directions by any one not under the bank of the lake, and which we hoped
+Mr. Everts might see, and so be directed to our camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+In going to the summit we traveled several hundred feet on a rocky ridge
+not wide enough for safe travel by a man on horseback. At an elevation
+of about eight hundred feet above Yellowstone lake we found two small
+lakes nestled in a deep recess in the mountain and surrounded by the
+overturned rocks.
+</p>
+<p>
+Our route to-day has been entirely through fallen timber, and it has
+been a hard day of travel on our horses, necessitating jumping over logs
+and dead branches of trees, and thus we have made very slow progress.
+</p>
+<p>
+The map of Yellowstone lake which we will be enabled to complete from
+the observations made to-day will show that its shape is very different
+from that shown on Captain Raynolds' map. The lake has but three
+islands.
+</p>
+<p>
+We are more than ever anxious about Mr. Everts. We had hoped, this
+morning, to make our camp to-night on the southwest arm of the lake, but
+the fallen timber has delayed us in our travel and prevented our doing
+so. The southwest arm of the lake has been our objective point for the
+past three days, and we feel assured that Mr. Everts, finding himself
+lost, will press on for that point, and, as he will not be hindered by
+the care of a pack train, he can travel twice as far in one day as we
+can, and we are therefore the more anxious to reach our destination. We
+have carefully considered all the points in the case, and have
+unanimously decided that it will be utter folly to remain in camp
+here, and equally so to have remained in this morning's camp, hoping
+that he would overtake us. On the evening that Mr. Hedges was lost, Mr.
+Everts told him that he ought to have struck out for the lake, as he
+(Everts) would do if lost. So we will move on to the southwest arm of
+the lake and remain three or four days. If Mr. Everts overtakes us at
+all he will do so by that time.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-33"><!-- Image 33 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/232.jpg" width="300" height="491"
+alt="Truman C. Everts">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, September 11</b>.&mdash;Gillette and Trumbull returned to camp this
+morning, having traversed the shore of the lake to a point east of our
+camp of September 9th, without discovering any sign of Mr. Everts. We
+have arrived at the conclusion that he has either struck out for the
+lake on the west, or followed down the stream which we crossed the day
+he was lost, or that he is possibly following us. The latter, however,
+is not very probable.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hauser, Lieutenant Doane and I saddled up immediately after
+breakfast, and, with a supply of provisions for Mr. Everts, pressed
+forward in advance of the rest of the party, marking a trail for the
+pack animals through the openings in the dense woods, and avoiding, as
+far as possible, the fallen timber. We rode through with all possible
+dispatch, watching carefully for the tracks of a horse, but found no
+sign of Mr. Everts. We followed both the beach and the trail on the bank
+for several miles in either direction, but we saw neither sign nor
+track. The small stream which we crossed on the 9th does not flow into
+this arm of the lake as we thought it might, and it is evidently a
+tributary of the Snake river.
+</p>
+<p>
+The pack train arrived early in the afternoon with the rest of the
+party, and all were astonished and saddened that no trace of Mr. Everts
+had been found. We shall to-night mature a plan for a systematic search
+for him. It is probable that we will make this camp the base of
+operations, and remain here several days. Everts has with him a supply
+of matches, ammunition and fishing tackle, and if he will but travel in
+a direct line and not veer around to the right or left in a circle, he
+will yet be all right.
+</p>
+<p>
+Directly west of our camp on the further side of this arm of the lake,
+and about four miles distant, are several hot springs which we shall
+visit before leaving the lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+We were roused this morning about 2 o'clock by the shrill howl of a
+mountain lion, and again while we were at breakfast we heard another
+yell. As we stood around our campfire to-night, our ears were saluted
+with a shriek so terribly human, that for a moment we believed it to be
+a call from Mr. Everts, and we hallooed in response, and several of our
+party started in the direction whence the sounds came, and would have
+instituted a search for our comrade but for an admonitory growl of a
+mountain lion.
+</p>
+<p>
+We have traveled to-day about seven miles. On leaving our camps
+yesterday and to-day, we posted conspicuously at each a placard, stating
+clearly the direction we had taken and where provisions could be found.
+</p>
+<p>
+The country through which we have passed for the past five days is like
+that facetiously described by Bridger as being so desolate and
+impassable and barren of resources, that even the crows flying over it
+were obliged to carry along with them supplies of provisions.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Monday, September 12</b>.&mdash;In accordance with our pre-arranged programme,
+three parties were sent out this morning in search of Mr. Everts. Smith
+and Trumbull were to follow the take shore until they came in sight of
+our last camp. Hauser and Gillette were to return on our trail through
+the woods, taking with them their blankets and two days' rations.
+General Washburn and myself were to take a southerly direction towards
+what we called "Brown Mountain," some twelve miles away. Smith and
+Trumbull returned early in the afternoon and reported having seen in
+the sand the tracks of a man's foot, and Smith thought that he saw
+several Indians, who disappeared in the woods as they approached; but
+Trumbull, who was with him, did not see them, and Smith says it was
+because he was short-sighted. For some reason they did not pursue their
+investigations farther, and soon returned in good order to camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+The reconnaissance made by General Washburn and myself resulted in no
+discovery of any trace of Everts. We traveled about eleven miles
+directly south, nearly to the base of Brown mountain, carefully
+examining the ground the whole of the way, to see if any horseshoe
+tracks could be discovered. We crossed no stream between the lake and
+the mountain, and if Mr. Everts followed the stream which we crossed on
+the 9th, he is south of Brown mountain, for it is evident that he did
+not pass westward between Brown mountain and Yellowstone lake; otherwise
+we would have discovered the tracks of his horse.
+</p>
+<p>
+It is now night, and Hauser and Gillette have not yet returned.
+</p>
+<p>
+Two miles on this side (the north side) of Brown mountain, Washburn and
+I passed over a low divide, which, I think, must be the main range of
+the Rocky Mountains, just beyond which is another brimstone basin
+containing forty or fifty boiling sulphur and mud springs, and any
+number of small steam jets. A small creek runs through the basin, and
+the slopes of the mountains on either side to the height of several
+hundred feet showed unmistakable signs of volcanic action beneath the
+crust over which we were traveling. A considerable portion of the slope
+of the mountain was covered with a hollow incrustation of sulphur and
+lime, or silica, from which issued in many places hot steam, and we
+found many small craters from six to twelve inches in diameter, from
+which issued the sound of the boiling sulphur or mud, and in many
+instances we could see the mud or sulphur water. There are many other
+springs of water slightly impregnated with sulphur, in which the water
+was too hot for us to bear the hand more than two or three seconds, and
+which overflowed the green spaces between the incrustations, completely
+saturating the ground, and over which in many places the grass had
+grown, forming a turf compact and solid enough to bear the weight of a
+man ordinarily; but when it once gave way the underlying deposit was so
+thin that it afforded no support. While crossing, heedless of General
+Washburn's warning, one of these green places, my horse broke through
+and sank to his body as if in a bed of quicksand. I was off his back in
+an instant and succeeded in extricating the struggling animal, the turf
+being strong enough to bear his body alone, without the addition of the
+weight of a man. The fore legs of my horse, however, had gone through
+the turf into the hot, thin mud beneath. General Washburn, who was a few
+yards behind me on an incrusted mound of lime and sulphur (which bore us
+in all cases), and who had just before called to me to keep off the
+grassy place, as there was danger beneath it, inquired of me if the
+deposit beneath the turf was hot. Without making examination I answered
+that I thought it might be warm. Shortly afterwards the turf again gave
+way, and my horse plunged more violently than before, throwing me over
+his head, and, as I fell, my right arm was thrust violently through the
+treacherous surface into the scalding morass, and it was with difficulty
+that I rescued my poor horse, and I found it necessary to instantly
+remove my glove to avoid blistering my hand. The frenzied floundering of
+my horse had in the first instance suggested to General Washburn the
+idea that the under stratum was hot enough to scald him. General
+Washburn was right in his conjecture. It is a fortunate circumstance
+that I to-day rode my light-weight pack horse; for, if I had ridden my
+heavy saddle horse, I think that the additional weight of his body would
+have broken the turf which held up the lighter animal, and that he would
+have disappeared in the hot boiling mud, taking me with him.
+</p>
+<p>
+At the base of Brown mountain is a lake, the size of which we could not
+very accurately ascertain, but which was probably about two miles long
+by three-quarters of a mile wide. On the south end appeared to be an
+outlet, and it seems to be near the head of the Snake river. Owing to
+the difficulty of reaching the beach, growing out of the mishaps arising
+from the giving way of the turf, as I have described, our nearest
+approach to the lake was about one-half of a mile.
+</p>
+<p>
+During the absence of Washburn and myself Mr. Hedges has spent the day
+in fishing, catching forty of the fine trout with which the lake
+abounds. Mr. Stickney has to-day made an inventory of our larder, and we
+find that our luxuries, such as coffee, sugar and flour, are nearly used
+up, and that we have barely enough of necessary provisions&mdash;salt,
+pepper, etc., to last us ten days longer with economy in their use. We
+will remain at the lake probably three or four days longer with the hope
+of finding some trace of Everts, when it will be necessary to turn our
+faces homewards to avoid general disaster, and in the meantime we will
+dry a few hundred pounds of trout, and carry them with us as a
+precautionary measure against starvation. At all of our camps for the
+past three days, and along the line of travel between them, we have
+blazed the trees as a guide for Mr. Everts, and have left a small supply
+of provisions at each place, securely cached, with notices directing Mr.
+Everts to the places of concealment. The soldiers' rations issued for
+thirty days' service will barely hold out for their own use, and we have
+little chance of borrowing from them. We left Helena with thirty days'
+rations, expecting to be absent but twenty-five days. We have already
+been journeying twenty-seven days, and are still a long way from home.
+</p>
+<p>
+A few nights ago I became ravenously hungry while on guard, and ate a
+small loaf of bread, one of five loaves that I found in a pan by the
+campfire. I was not aware at the time that these loaves were a part of
+the soldiers' breakfast rations, nor did I know that in the army service
+each soldier has his own particular ration of bread. So the next
+morning, with one ration of bread missing, one soldier would have been
+short in his allowance if the others had not shared their loaves with
+him. I supposed at the time of my discovery of the five loaves that they
+belonged to the larder of the Washburn branch of the party&mdash;not to the
+escort&mdash;and I apologized to the soldiers when I learned the truth, and
+we are now as good friends as ever; but, from an occasional remark which
+they drop in my presence, I perceive that they think they have the laugh
+on me. Unfortunately for them, we will part company before we reach the
+settlements, and I will have no opportunity to <i>liquidate</i> my
+obligations. Hard work and plain living have already reduced my
+superfluous flesh, and "my clothes like a lady's loose gown hang about
+me," as the old song runs.
+</p>
+<p>
+Day before yesterday Mr. Gillette and I discussed the question of the
+probability of a man being able to sustain life in this region, by
+depending for his subsistence upon whatever roots or berries are to be
+found here. We have once before to-day referred to the fact that we have
+seen none of the roots which are to be found in other parts of the Rocky
+Mountain region, and especially in the elevated valleys. We have not
+noticed on this trip a single growing plant or specimen of the camas,
+the cowse, or yamph. If Mr. Everts has followed the stream on which we
+were camped the day he was lost down into the Snake river valley, he
+will find an abundance of the camas root, which is most nutritions, and
+which will sustain his life if he has sufficient knowledge of the root
+to distinguish the edible from the poisonous plant.
+</p>
+<p>
+I have been told by James Stuart that in the valley of the Snake river
+the "camas" and the "cowse" roots are to be found in great abundance,
+and are much prized as food by the Indians. "Cowse" is a Nez Perce word,
+the Snake Indians give the name "thoig" to the same root. It grows in
+great abundance in the country of the Nez Perce Indians, who eat great
+quantities of it, and these Indians are called by the Snake Indians the
+"Thoig A-rik-ka," or "Cowse-eaters." The camas is both flour and
+potatoes for several wandering nations, and it is found in the most
+barren and desolate regions in greatest quantity. The camas is a small
+round root, not unlike an onion in appearance. It is sweet to the taste,
+full of gluten, and very satisfying to a hungry man. The Indians have a
+mode of preparing it which makes it very relishable. In a hole a foot in
+depth, and six feet in diameter, from which the turf has been carefully
+removed, they build a fire for the purpose of heating the exposed earth
+surface, while in another fire they heat at the same time a sufficient
+number of flat rocks to serve as a cover. After the heating process is
+completed, the roots are spread over the bottom of the hole, covered
+with the turf with the grass side down, the heated rocks spread above,
+and a fire built upon them, and the process of cooking produces about
+the same change in the camas that is produced in coffee by roasting. It
+also preserves it in a suitable form for ready use.
+</p>
+<p>
+The yamph has a longer and smaller bulb than the camas, though not quite
+as nutritious, and may be eaten raw. Either of these roots contains
+nutriment sufficient to support life, and often in the experience of the
+tribes of the mountains winters have been passed with no other food.
+There is a poisonous camas, which is sometimes mistaken for the genuine
+root, but which cannot be eaten in large quantities without fatal
+results. It always grows where the true camas is found, and much care is
+necessary to avoid mixing the two while gathering the roots in any
+considerable quantity. So great is the esteem in which the camas is held
+that many of the important localities of the country in which it is
+found are named for it.[<a href="#note-S">S</a>]
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-34"><!-- Image 34 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/233.jpg" width="450" height="296"
+alt="Section of Funnel-Shaped Spring. SHOWING HOW BRANCHES AND TWIGS LODGE AT THE POINT OF CONVERGENCE SO AS
+TO MAKE A FOUNDATION FOR GRASS AND EARTH UNTIL THE SPRING IS FILLED TO
+THE TOP AND THE SURFACE IS COVERED WITH A LIVING TURF STRONG ENOUGH TO
+BEAR A CONSIDERABLE WEIGHT.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Lieutenant Doane was much amazed at the appearance of my horse's legs,
+upon our return from Brown mountain, and has asked General Washburn and
+myself what can be the nature of the ground where such a mishap could
+occur. My theory of the matter is this: We frequently found springs of
+hot water&mdash;though not boiling&mdash;some fifteen or twenty feet in diameter
+at the top, the sides of which were funnel-shaped, and converged to a
+narrow opening of say three feet diameter at a depth of twelve or
+fifteen feet, and which below the point of convergence opened out like
+an hour glass. In some of these springs at the point of convergence we
+found tree branches that had fallen into the spring and had become
+impregnated with the silica or lime of the water; water-soaked we call
+it. I saw a number of such springs in which several branches of trees
+were lying across the small opening at the point of convergence. When
+once these are firmly lodged, they form a support for smaller branches
+and twigs, and thus the tufts of grass which the spring floods or
+melting snows bring down from the sides of the mountain will, after a
+few years, made a sufficiently strong foundation for the earth, which
+will also wash down the slopes into the spring. Once a firm footing is
+established, it is only a question of time when the spring will be
+filled to the brim with earth. Then gradually the seed blown over the
+surface of the spring from the weeds and grass near by will take root,
+and, in the course of a few years, a strong turf will be formed, through
+which the water may percolate in many places, though giving to the
+unsuspecting traveler no sign of its treacherous character. I think that
+it was through such a turf as this that the fore legs of my horse and my
+right hand were plunged.[<a href="#note-T">T</a>]
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-35"><!-- Image 35 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/234.jpg" width="450" height="391"
+alt="Breaking Through the Turf, formed over the Surface of Such a Spring As That Shown Above.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+My pack horse which I rode to-day, a buckskin colored broncho, which is
+docile under the pack saddle, "bucked" as I mounted him this morning;
+but I kept my seat in the saddle without difficulty. Walter Trumbull,
+however, on my return to-night, presented me with a sketch which he says
+is a faithful portrayal of both horse and rider in the acrobatic act. I
+think the sketch is an exaggeration, and that I hugged the saddle in
+better form than it indicates.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-36"><!-- Image 36 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/148.png" width="300" height="424"
+alt="My Bucking Broncho.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, September 13</b>.&mdash;It was Jake Smith's turn to stand guard last
+night, but he refused to do so, and Washburn took his place.
+</p>
+<p>
+We have remained in camp all day. At about 9 o'clock this morning it
+began to rain and hail, and we have had a little snow, which continued
+to fall at intervals all day. At about 6 o'clock this evening Hauser and
+Gillette arrived in camp, having returned on the trail to within three
+miles of the place where we camped on the night of September 7th. They
+examined the trail and the beach with the utmost care, but without
+discovering any trace of Mr. Everts. They say that the trail over which
+our train passed, or, rather, the path which our train made, was hardly
+plain enough to be followed, and in many places where the pine leaves
+had fallen thick upon the ground, it was totally invisible, so that no
+one could have followed it with certainty except by dismounting and
+closely observing the ground at every step. They made the journey very
+well, from the fact that they had traveled the route once before, and
+their horses instinctively followed the back path for a great part of
+the distance without any special guidance. On their near approach to
+camp, when the trail was no longer discernible, their dog "Booby" took
+the lead when they were at fault, and brought them into camp all right.
+They think they might have been forced to lie out all night but for the
+sagacity of "Booby." They made on each of the two days nearly as great a
+distance as our train traveled in four days. Their report has fully set
+at rest the question of Mr. Everts having followed us. It settles as a
+fact that he did not again strike our trail, and that had he done so he
+could not have followed it, owing to his short-sightedness. Hauser and
+Gillette are probably the two best trailers and woodsmen in our party,
+and their report of the condition of the trail and the difficulty
+experienced in following it has satisfied us that Mr. Everts has either
+struck off in a southerly direction, following perhaps the headwaters of
+the Snake river, or that he has made an effort to reach the head of the
+lake with a view of returning by our trail to Boteler's ranch. It is
+snowing hard to-night, and the prospect for a day or two more in this
+camp is very good. The murky atmosphere to-night brings to view a number
+of springs on the opposite shore of this arm of the lake and farther
+back in the hills which we have not heretofore seen, and the steam is
+rising from fifty craters in the timbered ridge, giving it the
+appearance of a New England factory village.
+</p>
+<p>
+After holding a council this evening we have resolved to remain at this
+place two days more, hoping that Mr. Everts may overtake us, this arm of
+the lake being the <i>objective point</i> of our travel, fixed on the day
+before that on which Mr. Everts was lost.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, September 14</b>.&mdash;We have remained in camp all day, as it is
+next to impossible to move. The snow is nearly two feet deep, and is
+very wet and heavy, and our horses are pawing in it for forage. Our
+large army tent is doing us good service, and, as there is an abundance
+of dry wood close by our camp, we are extremely comfortable. I am the
+only one of the party who has a pair of water-proof boots, and I was up
+and out of the tent this morning before daylight cutting into cordwood a
+pine log, and before noon I had more than a half cord at the tent door.
+Washburn and Hauser offered to do some of this work if I would loan them
+my water-proof boots; but, as they are of a full size for me, and would
+probably drop off of their feet, I told them that I would get the wood.
+</p>
+<p>
+Lieutenant Doane to-day requested me to loan him this diary from which
+to write up his records, as the condition of his thumb has interfered
+with his use of a pen or pencil. I have accordingly loaned it to him,
+and Private Moore has been busy the greater part of the day copying
+portions of it.
+</p>
+<p>
+For myself, I am very glad to have a day of rest, for I have felt much
+wearied for several days. I think that I am certainly within bounds when
+I say that I have put in sixteen hours a day of pretty hard work,
+attending to camp duties, and writing each day till late at night, and I
+realize that this journal of travel is becoming ponderous. Yet there is
+daily crowded upon my vision so much of novelty and wonder, which should
+be brought to the notice of the world, and which, so far as my
+individual effort is concerned, will be lost to it if I do not record
+the incidents of each day's travel, that I am determined to make my
+journal as full as possible, and to purposely omit no details. It is a
+lifetime opportunity for publishing to all who may be interested a
+complete record of the discoveries of an expedition which in coming time
+will rank among the first and most important of American explorations.
+</p>
+<p>
+It is cold to-night, and the water in a pail standing at our tent door
+was frozen at 7 o'clock in the evening.
+</p>
+<p>
+The water fowl are more abundant at this point than they have been
+elsewhere on the lake on our journey around it, and we could see to-day
+hundreds of swans, geese and ducks, and many pelicans and gulls.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, September 15</b>.&mdash;This forenoon the weather moderated, and
+one-half the snow has melted, so that it is but about ten inches deep
+to-night. Still, our horses are becoming restless for want of sufficient
+food. The patches of grass which may be found under the snow are very
+limited in extent, and as the animals are confined to the length of
+their lariats, foraging is much more difficult than if they were running
+loose. We have seen no signs of Indians following us since we made our
+first camp upon the lake, and but little evidence that they have ever
+been here, except some few logs piled so as to conceal from view a
+hunter who may be attempting to bring down some of the game swimming on
+the lake. We feel convinced that Jake Smith drew upon both his
+imagination and his fears three days ago, when he reported that he had
+seen Indians on the beach of the lake.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-37"><!-- Image 37 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/235top.jpg" width="450" height="469"
+alt="Lieut. Gustavus C. Doane.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+Each night that we have been camped here we have heard the shrill cries
+of the mountain lions, and under a momentary illusion I have each time
+been half convinced that it was a human being in distress. Because of
+the mountain lions we are keeping close watch upon our horses. They are
+very fond of horse flesh, and oftentimes will follow a horseman a
+long distance, more to make a meal upon the flesh of the horse than for
+the purpose of attacking the rider.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-38"><!-- Image 38 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/235bottom.jpg" width="450" height="502"
+alt="Jack Baronette.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+During the three days we have spent in this camp, I have been enabled to
+complete my diary for September 8th, 9th and 10th, which were red letter
+days&mdash;days of great anxiety.
+</p>
+<p>
+I had a good nap this afternoon while my diary was being used for
+Lieutenant Doane, and I feel greatly refreshed. My first thought on
+awakening was for poor Everts. I wonder where he can be throughout all
+this fierce storm and deep snow! Perhaps the snow did not reach him, for
+I noticed to-night that the ground was quite bare on the opposite side
+of this arm of the lake, while the snow is eight or ten inches deep here
+at our camp. Hauser is not feeling very well to-night.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Friday, September 16</b>.&mdash;We this morning resolved to move over to the
+vicinity of the hot springs on the opposite side of this arm of the
+lake, from which point we will leave the Yellowstone for the Madison
+river or some one of its branches. We followed up the beach for half a
+mile, and then journeyed along the bank of the lake through the woods
+for a mile to avoid the quicksands on the lake shore; then, taking the
+beach again, we followed it to the springs where we are now camped.[<a href="#note-U">U</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+These springs surpass in extent, variety and beauty any which we have
+heretofore seen. They extend for the distance of nearly a mile along the
+shore of the lake, and back from the beach about one hundred yards. They
+number between ninety and one hundred springs, of all imaginable
+varieties. Farthest from the beach are the springs of boiling mud, in
+some of which the mud is very thin, in others of such a consistency that
+it is heaped up as it boils over, gradually spreading under its own
+weight until it covers quite a large surface. The mud or clay is of
+different colors. That in some of the springs is nearly as white as
+white marble; in others it is of a lavender color; in others it is of a
+rich pink, of different shades. I have taken specimens of each, which I
+will have analyzed on my return home.[<a href="#note-V">V</a>] In close proximity to these are
+springs discharging water nearly clear and apparently odorless, the
+bottoms and sides of which, as well as of the channels of the streams
+running from them, are covered with soft deposits of some substance they
+contain in solution. These deposits and the hard incrustations around
+the edges of the springs are of various colors, in some cases being dark
+red, in others scarlet, in others yellow, and in still others green.
+</p>
+<p>
+Along the shore of the lake are several boiling springs situated in the
+top of incrusted craters, but which do not boil over, the sediment which
+has been deposited around them forming a wall or embankment, holding
+back the water.
+</p>
+<p>
+But the most remarkable of all the springs at this point are six or
+seven of a character differing from any of the rest. The water in them
+is of a dark blue or ultra-marine hue, but it is wonderfully clear and
+transparent. Two of these springs are quite large; the remaining five
+are smaller, their diameters ranging from eight to fifteen feet. The
+water in one of these latter is thrown up to the height of two feet.
+The largest two of these springs are irregular in their general outline
+of nearly an oval shape, the larger of the two being about twenty-five
+feet wide by forty long, and the smaller about twenty by thirty feet.
+The discharge from each of them is about one gallon per minute. The
+sides of the springs are funnel-shaped, and converge until at the depth
+of thirty feet, the opening is about eight feet in diameter. From the
+surface or rim down to the lowest point of convergence where the opening
+enlarges, the sides of the funnel (which are corrugated and very uneven
+and irregular) are covered with a white deposit or incrustation which
+contrasts vividly with the dark opening at its base, which is distinctly
+visible at the depth of forty feet. These two springs are distant from
+each other about twenty yards, and there is a difference of about four
+feet in the elevation or level of the water. One peculiar feature of all
+these springs is that they seem to have no connection with each other
+beneath the surface. We find springs situated five or six feet apart, of
+the same general appearance but of different temperatures, and with the
+water upon different levels. The overflow from these springs for a great
+number of years has formed an incrusted bank overlooking the border of
+the lake, rising to the height of six feet; and, as the streams running
+from the springs are bordered with incrustations of various hues,
+depending upon the nature of the deposit or substance in solution, so
+the incrusted bank, which has been in process of formation for ages,
+exhibits all of these varied colors. In a number of places along the
+bank of the lake, this incrusted deposit is broken down and has crumbled
+into small pieces, upon which the waves have dashed until they have been
+moulded into many curious shapes, and having all the colors of the
+deposits in the springs&mdash;white, red and white blended, yellow and green.
+Cavernous hollows which fill the shore incrustation respond in weird
+and melancholy echoes to the dash of the billows.
+</p>
+<p>
+The bottoms of the streams flowing from the deeper springs have for some
+distance a pure white incrustation; farther down the slope the deposit
+is white in the center with sides of red, and still farther down the
+white deposit is hidden entirely by the red combined with yellow. From
+nearly all these springs we obtained specimens of the adjoining
+incrustations, all of which were too hot to be held for more than a
+moment even with the gloved hand.
+</p>
+<p>
+Between the springs all along the border of the lake were small craters
+from which issued hot steam or vapor, besides which there were many cold
+craters. Along the edge of the lake, out in the water from ten to thirty
+feet from the shore are to be found springs with the water bubbling up a
+few inches above the surface. None of the springs in this locality
+appeared to be very strongly impregnated with sulphur. Some of the
+incrustations on the beach are as white and delicate as alabaster. These
+are the springs which we observed on September 5th from our camp on the
+eastern shore of the lake.
+</p>
+<p>
+Our explorations of the Yellowstone will cease at this point, and
+to-morrow we start in our search for Firehole Basin. Our journey around
+Yellowstone lake in close proximity to the beach is doubtless the first
+ever attempted; and, although it has been attended with difficulty and
+distress, these have been to me as nothing compared with the enjoyment
+the journey has afforded, and it is with the greatest regret that I turn
+my face from it homewards. How can I sum up its wonderful attractions!
+It is dotted with islands of great beauty, as yet unvisited by man, but
+which at no remote period will be adorned with villas and the ornaments
+of civilized life. The winds from the mountain gorges roll its placid
+waters into a furious sea, and crest its billows with foam. Forests of
+pine, deep, dark and almost impenetrable, are scattered at random along
+its banks, and its beautiful margin presents every variety of sand and
+pebbly beach, glittering with crystals, carnelians and chalcedony. The
+Indians approach it under the fear of a superstition originating in the
+volcanic forces surrounding it, which amounts almost to entire
+exclusion. It possesses adaptabilities for the highest display of
+artificial culture, amid the greatest wonders of Nature that the world
+affords, and is beautified by the grandeur of the most extensive
+mountain scenery, and not many years can elapse before the march of
+civil improvement will reclaim this delightful solitude, and garnish it
+with all the attractions of cultivated taste and refinement.
+</p>
+<p>
+Strange and interesting as are the various objects which we have met
+with in this vast field of natural wonders, no camp or place of rest on
+our journey has afforded our party greater satisfaction than the one we
+are now occupying, which is our first camp since emerging from the dense
+forest. Filled with gloom at the loss of our comrade, tired, tattered,
+browned by exposure and reduced in flesh by our labors, we resemble more
+a party of organized mendicants than of men in pursuit of Nature's
+greatest novelties. But from this point we hope that our journey will be
+comparatively free from difficulties of travel.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hauser's experience as a civil engineer has been an invaluable aid
+in judging of the "lay of the land," and so in giving direction to our
+party in its zig-zag journeying around the lake. In speaking of this,
+Hauser says that he thinks that I have a more correct idea of mountain
+heights, distances and directions, and can follow a direct course
+through dense timber more unerringly than any man he knows, except James
+Stuart&mdash;a compliment which I accept most graciously. Some of our party
+declare that they would have had no expectation of finding their way
+back to camp, if they had ventured into the forest in search of Mr.
+Everts.
+</p>
+<p>
+I recited to Washburn and Hauser to-night an extract from "The Task," by
+the poet Cowper, which, in my younger days, I memorized for declamation,
+and which, I think, is at once expressive of our experience in the
+journey around the lake and of our present relief.
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "As one who long in thickets and in brakes
+ Entangled, winds now this way and now that,
+ His devious course uncertain, seeking home,
+ Or having long in miry ways been foiled
+ And sore discomfited, from slough to slough
+ Plunging, and half despairing of escape,
+ If chance at length he finds a green-sward
+ Smooth and faithful to the foot, his spirits rise.
+ He chirrups brisk his ear-erecting steed,
+ And winds his way with pleasure and with ease."
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+It is a source of great regret to us all that we must leave this place
+and abandon the search for Mr. Everts; but our provisions are rapidly
+diminishing, and force of circumstances obliges us to move forward. We
+still indulge the hope that he may have found and followed down some
+branch of the Madison river and reached Virginia City, or down Snake
+river and reached some settlement in that valley; and but for our
+anxiety to reach home and prove or disprove our expectations, we might
+have devoted much more time to visiting the objects of interest we have
+seen, and which we have been obliged to pass by.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hauser has eaten nothing to-day, and this evening he told me that he
+felt sick. Such an acknowledgment from him means far more than it would
+coming from many another man, for I know from intimate association with
+him for eight years that there is no man in our party who will more
+uncomplainingly reconcile himself to the hardships and privations of
+such a journey as this, and if he is too ill to travel to-morrow
+morning, and if the rest of our party think that they ought to take up
+the journey homeward, I will remain with him here for a day, and as the
+others will have to search out a path through the fallen timber, we can
+make their two days' journey in one by following their beaten trail
+without obstacles, and overtake them by the time they reach the Firehole
+river, if they find it at all.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, September 17, morning</b>.&mdash;We were awakened before daylight this
+morning by loud roaring sounds proceeding from the hot springs close by
+our camp, some of which were in violent action, though entirely
+quiescent yesterday. Some of them in which the surface of the water,
+last night, was several feet below the rim, are now overflowing.
+</p>
+<p>
+My saddle horse broke his lariat, frightened by the roaring of the
+springs, and plunged along too near one of them, when the surrounding
+incrustation gave way and he sank down to his body, but frantically
+extricated himself without standing upon the order of his
+extrication;&mdash;but he has cut his foot so badly that I do not think it
+will be prudent to ride him to-day. In his stead I will ride my smaller
+pack horse, who has nearly recovered from the effects of the scalding he
+received on my trip to Brown mountain. The hair has come off his legs in
+several places as the result of that mishap, yet his wonderful vitality
+always leaves him in a cheerful frame of mind and ready for any duty.
+</p>
+<p>
+This has been a gloomy morning in our camp, for we all have been
+depressed at the thought of leaving the lake and abandoning the search
+for Mr. Everts. We have discussed the situation from every point of
+view, and have tried to put ourselves in his place and have considered
+all the possibilities of fate that may befall him. At one moment he may
+be buoyed up with hope, however faint&mdash;at another weighed down by
+despair and fear, with all their mental terrors. Has he met death by
+accident, or may he be injured and unable to move, and be suffering the
+horrors of starvation and fever? Has he wandered aimlessly hither and
+thither until bereft of reason? As I contemplate all these
+possibilities, it is a relief to think that he may have lost his life at
+the hand of some vagabond Indian.
+</p>
+<p>
+As the result of this conference we have decided upon a final plan of
+action. We will give to Gillette from our remnant of provisions, ten
+days' rations, and Lieutenant Doane will detail Privates Moore and
+Williamson, with ten days' rations, and the three will continue the
+search from this point. Mr. Gillette says that with the ten days'
+rations they can devote five days to a continuous search, and the
+remaining five days will be sufficient, with forced traveling, for them
+to overtake us.
+</p>
+<p>
+Hauser has endeavored to throw a little cheer into the conference by
+saying to Gillette:
+</p>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+<pre>
+
+ "I think that I should be willing to take the risk of spending
+ ten days more in this wilderness, if I thought that by so
+ doing I could find a father-in-law." This provoked an uproarious
+ shout of laughter, for we well understood that
+ Hauser alluded to the many social courtesies which Gillette,
+ in Helena, had extended to Miss Bessie Everts, the charming
+ daughter of our lost comrade, and one of the most attractive
+ of Montana belles. This sally of Mr. Hauser gives to me
+ the assurance of his own convalescence; and, if it so happens
+ that Gillette finds Mr. Everts, we will have the realization
+ of another image in "Childe Harold," "A rapture on the
+ lonely shore."[<a href="#note-W">W</a>]
+
+</pre>
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<p>
+<b>Saturday, September 17, evening</b>.&mdash;Gillette, Moore and Williamson left
+us this morning about 9 o'clock on their final quest for Mr. Everts, and
+the rest of our party soon resumed our journey. We have traveled about
+twelve miles to-day, about one-half of the distance being through open
+timber, and the other half over prostrate pines unmarked by any trail,
+and through which we found it difficult to make our way, although the
+obstructions were not so formidable as those on the south shore of
+Yellowstone lake.[<a href="#note-X">X</a>] About noon we crossed a high ridge which we had
+reached by a steep ascent, and on descending the opposite side we saw
+upon our left a large lake which Lieutenant Doane and some others of our
+party think is at the head of Firehole river, and they suggested that we
+make our way to this lake and take as a guide to the Firehole the stream
+which they believe will be found flowing from it. They argued that by
+so doing we would be relieved from all uncertainty concerning the course
+to be pursued in order to reach the Firehole river; but they were easily
+persuaded that if the Firehole does take its rise in that lake, we can
+as certainly strike that river by pursuing our present westwardly
+direction as if we followed the plan suggested by them. Hauser and I
+feel sure that this large lake is the head of Snake river.
+</p>
+<p>
+In the afternoon we passed another ridge and descended into a small open
+valley where we found a spring of good water, and where we are now
+camped, near a very small creek, which runs in a direction a little
+north of west, and which I believe flows to the Firehole or the Madison
+river. Our direction of travel to-day has been governed somewhat by our
+compasses, but we have neglected to make allowance for the variation of
+the magnetic needle, which I think is about twenty degrees east of the
+true meridian. Therefore in trying to follow a westerly course, we have
+in reality taken a course about twenty degrees north of west.
+</p>
+<p>
+As we passed the large lake on our left to-day, I observed that there
+was no ridge of land between us and the lake; therefore I believe that
+it is in the Snake river valley, and that we have to-day twice crossed
+the main range of the Rocky Mountains. The fact that the Snake river
+valley is so readily accessible from Yellowstone lake, gives me hope
+to-night that Mr. Everts may have made his way out of the forest to some
+settlement in the Snake river valley.
+</p>
+<p>
+There is still four or five inches of snow on the ground, but there is
+plenty of long grass under it, and our horses are faring tolerably well,
+and will soon fill themselves with either grass or snow. There is no
+clear space large enough for us to pitch our tent. We have had our
+supper&mdash;an indifferent and scanty meal&mdash;and each man is now seeking with
+varied success a dry spot beneath the sheltering branches of the pines
+whereon to spread his blankets.
+</p>
+<p>
+Some of our party seem terribly fatigued, and others mentally depressed.
+The question of our present locality is still unsolved in their minds,
+and has been intensified by the discussions in camp to-night as to
+whether or not the large lake we saw discharges its waters into the
+Snake river, and they ask: "If it does so, have we re-crossed the main
+range to the eastern slope?" For myself I do not know of any day since
+we left home when I have been in better spirits. I am sure we are on the
+right course and feel no anxiety.
+</p>
+<p>
+The sky to-night is clear and cloudless, but the snow is melting fast,
+and there is a peculiar odor in the air that gives assurance of rain
+before morning. Hedges (my bed fellow) and I have selected our sleeping
+place, and I have placed over it a ridge-pole, supported by branches of
+a tree, and have erected a "wickiup" of green pine boughs overlapping
+like a thatched roof, which will turn off the rain if it comes, and I
+have advised the others of our party to make similar preparations for a
+rain. Hedges says that he feels worried and very much discouraged.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, September 18, 8 o'clock a.m.</b>&mdash;There occurred a half hour ago the
+first serious mishap affecting the welfare of the entire party; and
+while the packers, Bean and Reynolds, are repairing the damage resulting
+therefrom, I will go back a few hours and chronicle in the order of
+their occurrence the events of the early morning.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges and I, sleeping securely under the sheltering roof of our
+pine-thatched wickiup, were aroused from our sweet dreams of home about
+4 o'clock this morning by several members of our party, who sought
+shelter from the rain which came down abundantly, or, as a Westmoreland
+deacon used to say, "in cupious perfusion." The rain storm broke about 3
+o'clock in the morning, and all of the party except Hedges and myself
+were well drenched, as their only protection from the rain was their
+blankets. An effort had been made by some of the party to kindle a fire
+under the shelter of a large standing tree, but with indifferent
+success. Hedges and I crawled out of our dry blankets, and sat upright,
+so as to make as much room as possible for the others, and we welcomed
+all our comrades to our dry shelter. General Washburn, who is suffering
+somewhat from a cold, was especially grateful for the protection from
+the storm, which continued until about 7 o'clock. The roof of our
+wickiup had completely protected Hedges and myself from the rain except
+at one spot directly over Hedges' exposed ear, where a displacement of
+the pine leaves allowed a small stream to trickle through the roof,
+filling his ear with water, much to his discomfort.
+</p>
+<p>
+Some members of our party, at our early breakfast this morning, sitting
+upon logs at various distances from our camp fire in their half-dried
+clothing, and eating their scanty meal in silence, presented a sorry
+appearance. Some are disappointed that we did not, last night, reach the
+Firehole river, or some large branch of the Madison, which may guide us
+homeward, and are wondering if we are moving in the right direction. I
+feel so perfectly confident that we are traveling the right course that
+I am in the best of spirits. It may be that my cheerfulness is owing, in
+some degree, to my having dry clothing and a dry skin, which few of my
+comrades have, but I see no reason for discouragement. I think that Mr.
+Hauser is the best and most accurate judge of distances, of heights of
+mountains, and direction of travel, of any man I know, and he does not
+doubt that we are moving in the right direction. It is a satisfaction to
+have my opinion confirmed by his judgment.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-39"><!-- Image 39 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/236.jpg" width="300" height="495"
+alt="Nathaniel P. Langford">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+We had just finished our breakfast a half hour ago when something&mdash;some
+wild animal, or, perhaps, a snake&mdash;moving in the brush near where our
+horses were picketed, frightened three of them, and in their violent
+plunging they pulled up the iron picket pins attached to their lariats,
+and dashed at a gallop directly through our camp, over the campfire, and
+upsetting and scattering hither and thither our cooking utensils. The
+iron picket pins flying through the air at the lariat ends narrowly
+missed several of our party, but became entangled with the only two
+sound pack saddles remaining of the entire number with which we started,
+and dashed them against the adjacent trees, tearing off the side pieces
+of the saddletrees, and rendering them useless. Our first thought was
+that the damage done was beyond repair. We had, however, a few thin
+boards, the remnants of our canned goods boxes, and from my seamless
+sack of personal baggage I produced two gimlets, a screwdriver, a pair
+of nippers, some wrought nails and two dozens of screws of various
+sizes. When all these things were laid out, my comrades expressed great
+surprise, for not one of them or the packers had any idea that there
+were any tools or screws in our "outfit." On the other hand, it is a
+matter of surprise to me that I am the only member of our party who has
+a rubber coat, or a pair of oil-tanned water-proof boots, or who has
+brought with him any medicines, tools, screws, etc.; and, except myself,
+there is but one member of our party (whom I will not "give away" by
+here recording his name) who had the foresight to bring with him a flask
+of whiskey. I think we will be known among those who will hereafter
+visit this marvelous region as "The Temperance Party," though some of
+our number who lacked the foresight to provide, before leaving Helena, a
+needed remedy for snake bites, have not lacked the hindsight required in
+using it.
+</p>
+<p>
+Bean and Reynolds have just announced that the pack saddles have been
+repaired, and that preparations are being made for the start, so on
+this hint I suspend my record until night.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sunday, September 18, evening</b>.&mdash;We left our morning camp about 9
+o'clock, pursuing our uncertain course through fallen timber for a
+distance of about three miles, when we had all our fears of misdirection
+relieved by coming suddenly upon the banks of the Firehole river, the
+largest fork of the Madison, down which we followed five miles, passing
+several groups of boiling springs and a beautiful cascade[<a href="#note-Y">Y</a>] (to which
+we gave no name), when we emerged from the dense forest into a
+sequestered basin two miles above the union of the Firehole river with a
+stream which comes in from the southwest, the basin extending to the
+width of a mile, and traversing the river until contracted between
+proximate ranges two miles below our camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+I have spent the entire afternoon and part of this evening in examining
+the geysers and springs, but will not further record the explorations of
+to-day until we are ready to leave the basin.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Monday, September 19</b>.&mdash;When we left Yellowstone lake two days ago, the
+desire for home had superceeded all thought of further explorations.
+Five days of rapid travel would, we believed, bring us to the upper
+valley of the Madison, and within twenty-five miles of Virginia City,
+and we indulged the remote hope that we might there find some trace of
+Mr. Everts. We had within a distance of fifty miles seen what we
+believed to be the greatest wonders on the continent. We were convinced
+that there was not on the globe another region where within the same
+limits Nature had crowded so much of grandeur and majesty with so much
+of novelty and wonder. Judge, then, of our astonishment on entering this
+basin, to see at no great distance before us an immense body of
+sparkling water, projected suddenly and with terrific force into the air
+to the height of over one hundred feet. We had found a real geyser. In
+the valley before us were a thousand hot springs of various sizes and
+character, and five hundred craters jetting forth vapor. In one place
+the eye followed through crevices in the crust a stream of hot water of
+considerable size, running at nearly right angles with the river, and in
+a direction, not towards, but away from the stream. We traced the course
+of this stream by the crevices in the surface for twenty or thirty
+yards. It is probable that it eventually flows into the Firehole, but
+there is nothing on the surface to indicate to the beholder the course
+of its underground passage to the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+On the summit of a cone twenty-five feet high was a boiling spring seven
+feet in diameter, surrounded with beautiful incrustations, on the slope
+of which we gathered twigs encased in a crust a quarter of an inch in
+thickness. On an incrusted hill opposite our camp are four craters from
+three to five feet in diameter, sending forth steam jets and water to
+the height of four or five feet. But the marvelous features of this
+wonderful basin are its spouting geysers, of which during our brief stay
+of twenty-two hours we have seen twelve in action. Six of these threw
+water to the height of from fifteen to twenty feet, but in the presence
+of others of immense dimensions they soon ceased to attract attention.
+</p>
+<p>
+Of the latter six, the one we saw in action on entering the basin
+ejected from a crevice of irregular form, and about four feet long by
+three wide, a column of water of corresponding magnitude to the height
+of one hundred feet. Around this crevice or mouth the sediment is piled
+in many capricious shapes, chiefly indented globules from six inches to
+two feet in diameter. Little hollows in the crust filled with water
+contained small white spheres of tufa, of the size of a nutmeg, formed
+as it seemed to me around some nuclei.[<a href="#note-Z">Z</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+We gave such names to those of the geysers which we saw in action as we
+think will best illustrate their peculiarities. The one I have just
+described General Washburn has named "Old Faithful," because of the
+regularity of its eruptions, the intervals between which being from
+sixty to sixty-five minutes, the column of water being thrown at each
+eruption to the height of from eighty to one hundred feet.
+</p>
+<p>
+The "Fan" has a distorted pipe from which are projected two radiating
+sheets of water to the height of sixty feet, resembling a feather fan.
+Forty feet from this geyser is a vent connected with it, two feet in
+diameter, which, during the eruption, expels with loud reports dense
+volumes of vapor to the height of fifty feet.
+</p>
+
+<!-- NOTE: Remove center tags and put align="left" or align="right" for text wrapped alignments -->
+
+<a name="image-40"><!-- Image 40 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/237.jpg" width="450" height="649"
+alt="Old Faithful. Named by General Washburn.">
+</center>
+
+<p>
+The "Grotto," so named from the singularly winding apertures penetrating
+the sinter surrounding it, was at rest when we first discovered it.
+Externally it presented few indications of its character as a geyser.
+Private Williamson, one of our escort, crawled through an aperture and
+looked into the discharging orifice. When afterwards, he saw it belching
+forth a column of boiling water two feet in diameter to the height of
+sixty feet, and a scalding stream of two hundred square inches flowing
+from the cavern he had entered a short time before, he said that he felt
+like one who had narrowly escaped being summarily cooked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The "Castle" is on the summit of an incrusted elevation. This name was
+given because of its resemblance to the ruins of some old tower with its
+broken down turrets. The silicious sinter composing the formation
+surrounding it takes the form of small globules, resembling a ripe
+cauliflower, and the massive nodules indicate that at some former period
+the flow of water must have been much larger than at present. The jet is
+sixty feet high by four feet in diameter, and the vent near it, which is
+in angry ebullition during the eruption, constantly flows with boiling
+water.
+</p>
+<p>
+One of the most wonderful of the springs in this basin is that of
+ultra-marine hue directly in front of the "Castle" geyser. It is nearly
+round, having diameters of about twenty and twenty-five feet, the sides
+being corrugated and funnel-shaped, and at the depth of thirty feet
+opening out into a cavern of unfathomable depth, the rim of the spring
+having beautifully escalloped edges. It does not boil over, but a very
+small stream of water flows from it, and it is not affected in its
+appearance by the spouting of the geyser in its immediate proximity.
+There is evidently no connection between this spring and the geyser.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The "Giant" is a rugged deposit presenting in form a miniature model of
+the Colosseum. It has an opening three feet in diameter. A remarkable
+characteristic of this geyser is the duration of its discharges, which
+yesterday afternoon continued for more than an hour in a steady stream
+about three feet in diameter and one hundred and forty feet high.
+</p>
+<p>
+Opposite our camp, on the east side of the Firehole river, is a
+symmetrical cone resembling an old-fashioned straw beehive with the top
+cut off. It is about five feet in diameter at its base, with an
+irregular oval-shaped orifice having escalloped edges, and of
+twenty-four by thirty-six inches interior diameter. No one supposed that
+it was a geyser, and until this morning, among so many wonders, it had
+escaped a second notice. Suddenly, while we were at breakfast this
+morning, a column of water shot from it, which by quite accurate
+triangular measurement proved to be two hundred and nineteen feet in
+height. Our method of triangulation was as follows: A point on the
+surface of the ground was marked, which was in a direct line with a
+branch of a tree near by, and of the top of the column of water when at
+its greatest height. Having obtained the perpendicular height of the
+branch of the tree from the ground, and the distance from this
+perpendicular to the point of observation and to the geyser cone, we
+were enabled to make a very accurate calculation of the height of the
+column of water. We named this geyser the "Bee Hive."
+</p>
+<p>
+Near by is situated the "Giantess," the largest of all the geysers we
+saw in eruption. Ascending a gentle slope for a distance of sixty yards
+we came to a sink or well of an irregular oval shape, fifteen by twenty
+feet across, into which we could see to the depth of fifty feet or more,
+but could discover no water, though we could distinctly hear it gurgling
+and boiling at a fearful rate afar down this vertical cavern. Suddenly
+it commenced spluttering and rising with incredible rapidity, causing a
+general stampede among our company, who all moved around to the windward
+side of the geyser. When the water had risen within about twenty-five
+feet of the surface, it became stationary, and we returned to look down
+upon the foaming water, which occasionally emitted hot jets nearly to
+the mouth of the orifice. As if tired of this sport the water began to
+ascend at the rate of five feet in a second, and when near the top it
+was expelled with terrific momentum in a column the full size of the
+immense aperture to a height of sixty feet. The column remained at this
+height for the space of about a minute, when from the apex of this vast
+aqueous mass five lesser jets or round columns of water varying in size
+from six to fifteen inches in diameter shot up into the atmosphere to
+the amazing height of two hundred and fifty feet. This was without
+exception the most magnificent phenomenon I ever beheld. We were
+standing on the side of the geyser exposed to the sun, whose sparkling
+rays filled the ponderous column with what appeared to be the clippings
+of a thousand rainbows. These prismatic illusions disappeared, only to
+be succeeded by myriads of others which continually fluttered and
+sparkled through the spray during the twenty minutes the eruption
+lasted. These lesser jets, thrown so much higher than the main column
+and shooting through it, doubtless proceed from auxiliary pipes leading
+into the principal orifice near the bottom, where the explosive force is
+greater. The minute globules into which the spent column was diffused
+when falling sparkled like a shower of diamonds, and around every shadow
+produced by the column of steam hiding the sun was the halo so often
+represented in paintings as encircling the head of the Savior We
+unhesitatingly agreed that this was the greatest wonder of our trip.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges and I forded the Firehole river a short distance below our
+camp. The current, as it dashed over the boulders, was swift, and,
+taking off our boots and stockings, we selected for our place of
+crossing what seemed to be a smooth rock surface in the bottom of the
+stream, extending from shore to shore. When I reached the middle of the
+stream I paused a moment and turned around to speak to Mr. Hedges, who
+was about entering the stream, when I discovered from the sensation of
+warmth under my feet that I was standing upon an incrustation formed
+over a hot spring that had its vent in the bed of the stream. I
+exclaimed to Hedges: "Here is the river which Bridger said was <i>hot at
+the bottom</i>."[<a href="#note-AA">AA</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+How many more geysers than those we saw in eruption there are in this
+remarkable basin, it is impossible to determine. We will be compelled
+reluctantly to leave it before it can be half explored. At least a
+thousand pipes rise to the plain, one or two hundred of which, to all
+appearances, are as likely to be geysers as any we have seen.
+</p>
+<p>
+This entire country is seemingly under a constant and active internal
+pressure from volcanic forces, which seek relief through the numberless
+springs, jets, volcanoes and geysers exhibited on its surface, and which
+but for these vents might burst forth in one terrific eruption and form
+a volcano of vast dimensions. It is undoubtedly true that many of the
+objects we see are of recent formation, and that many of the
+extinguished craters recently ceased their condition of activity. They
+are constantly breaking forth, often assuming new forms, and attesting
+to the active presence of volcanic force.
+</p>
+<p>
+The water in some of the springs presents to the eye the colors of all
+the precious gems known to commerce. In one spring the hue is like that
+of an emerald, in another like that of the turquoise, another has the
+ultra-marine hue of the sapphire, another has the color of the topaz;
+and the suggestion has been made that the names of these jewels may very
+properly be given to many of these springs.
+</p>
+<p>
+The packers with the pack train and several of our party broke camp at
+9:30 this morning, a few of us remaining for an hour, hoping to have
+another view of an eruption of the "Giantess;" but in this we were
+disappointed, for it gave no sign of an eruption, save that the water,
+visible generally at a depth of about twenty feet, would rise suddenly
+eight or ten feet in the well, and as suddenly fall again.
+</p>
+<p>
+We moved down the river on the east bank, part of the way through an
+open valley and part through fallen timber. At about eight miles we came
+upon an enormous spring of dark blue water, the largest we have seen.
+Mr. Hauser measured it, and says it is four hundred feet in diameter.
+The mineral solution has been deposited by the overflow on all sides for
+two hundred yards, the spring itself being thirty feet above the general
+level of the valley. Out near the center of the lake the water boils up
+a few feet, but without any especial violent action. The lake has no
+well-defined outlet, but overflows on many sides, the water flowing down
+the slopes of the incrusted mound about one-quarter of an inch deep. As
+we stood on the margin of this immense lake a small flock of ducks came
+sailing down as if to alight; but as they skimmed the water a few inches
+above the surface, they seemed to scent danger, and with rapid flapping
+of their wings, all except one rose into the air. This one, in his
+descent, had gained too great an impetus to check his progress, and
+came down into the water, and his frantic efforts to rise again were
+futile, and with one or two loud squawks of distress, which were
+responded to by his mates who had escaped, he was in a moment "a dead
+duck." We gave no name to this lake.[<a href="#note-AB">AB</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+About one hundred yards from the lake on the side towards the river, the
+incrustation breaks off perpendicularly, and another large lake is
+formed, the surface of which is about fifteen feet below the upper and
+larger lake. There are a few other springs near the river farther down
+the stream.
+</p>
+<p>
+Jake Smith, for the first time on this trip, selected at this large lake
+a curious specimen of tufa. It was a circumstance so unusual that Hedges
+called our attention to it, but as Smith was riding along holding his
+treasure carefully in his hand, his horse stumbled, and he accidentally
+dropped his specimen, and with a remark which I will not here record,
+and which is at variance with his own Bible instruction, he denounced as
+worthless all the specimens of the party which he had seen, and
+inveighed against the folly of spending any time in gathering them.
+</p>
+<p>
+From this point we passed down the valley close by the bank of the
+river. The valley on our right was very marshy, and we saw at a
+considerable distance one very large fountain of water spouting into the
+atmosphere to a considerable height, and many steam jets, but, owing to
+the swampy character of the ground, we did not visit them.[<a href="#note-AC">AC</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+When we left Helena on August 17th, we believed that twenty-five days
+would be the limit of time which would be consumed before our return;
+but to meet all exigencies we laid in a thirty days' supply of
+provisions. We have now been absent thirty-four days, and as we cached
+some of our supply on Yellowstone lake for Mr. Everts' relief, we are
+now on short rations, but the fish we dried while camped on Yellowstone
+lake are doing good service.
+</p>
+<p>
+While riding to-day alongside of Stickney and bemoaning the lack in our
+larder of many articles of food, such as sugar, coffee and tea, the
+supply of which has become exhausted, I asked him if he was fond of
+maple sugar, and would like a lump of it. He requested me not to
+tantalize him by mentioning the subject, whereupon I astonished him by
+producing a goodly sized cake which I had brought with me from Helena,
+and which for five weeks I had preserved untouched in my seamless sack.
+It was enjoyed by all who shared it, but Stickney was especially
+grateful for his division of the sweet morsel, and received it
+gratefully and gracefully, and seemingly without reluctance, at the same
+time remarking, "You are always doing something to make me laugh!" and
+added, "You always seem to have another card up your sleeve when an
+emergency arises." By this last figure of speech he delicately suggested
+to me the methods adopted by Jake Smith in playing poker.[<a href="#note-AD">AD</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+We have traveled to-day about eighteen miles, crossing just before the
+day closed a timbered ridge, and we are now camped at the junction of
+the Firehole river with a stream coming into it from the east nearly as
+large as the Firehole, but to which we have given no name.[<a href="#note-AE">AE</a>]
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, September 20</b>.&mdash;We broke camp at half past nine o'clock,
+traveling along the rocky edge of the river bank by the rapids, passing
+thence through a beautiful pine wood and over a long stretch of fallen
+timber, blackened by fire, for about four miles, when we again reached
+the river, which here bends in a westerly direction. Lieutenant Doane
+and I climbed to the top of one of the two prominent hills on our
+course, and had a fine view of the country for the distance of thirty
+miles.
+</p>
+<p>
+Last night, and also this morning in camp, the entire party had a rather
+unusual discussion. The proposition was made by some member that we
+utilize the result of our exploration by taking up quarter sections of
+land at the most prominent points of interest, and a general discussion
+followed. One member of our party suggested that if there could be
+secured by pre-emption a good title to two or three quarter sections of
+land opposite the lower fall of the Yellowstone and extending down the
+river along the ca&ntilde;on, they would eventually become a source of great
+profit to the owners. Another member of the party thought that it would
+be more desirable to take up a quarter section of land at the Upper
+Geyser Basin, for the reason that that locality could be more easily
+reached by tourists and pleasure seekers. A third suggestion was that
+each member of the party pre-empt a claim, and in order that no one
+should have an advantage over the others, the whole should be thrown
+into a common pool for the benefit of the entire party.
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Hedges then said that he did not approve of any of these plans&mdash;that
+there ought to be no private ownership of any portion of that region,
+but that the whole of it ought to be set apart as a great National Park,
+and that each one of us ought to make an effort to have this
+accomplished. His suggestion met with an instantaneous and favorable
+response from all&mdash;except one&mdash;of the members of our party, and each
+hour since the matter was first broached, our enthusiasm has increased.
+It has been the main theme of our conversation to-day as we journeyed. I
+lay awake half of last night thinking about it;&mdash;and if my wakefulness
+deprived my bed-fellow (Hedges) of any sleep, he has only himself and
+his disturbing National Park proposition to answer for it.
+</p>
+<p>
+Our purpose to create a park can only be accomplished by untiring work
+and concerted action in a warfare against the incredulity and unbelief
+of our National legislators when our proposal shall be presented for
+their approval. Nevertheless, I believe we can win the battle.
+</p>
+<p>
+I do not know of any portion of our country where a national park can be
+established furnishing to visitors more wonderful attractions than here.
+These wonders are so different from anything we have ever seen&mdash;they are
+so various, so extensive&mdash;that the feeling in my mind from the moment
+they began to appear until we left them has been one of intense surprise
+and of incredulity. Every day spent in surveying them has revealed to me
+some new beauty, and now that I have left them, I begin to feel a
+skepticism which clothes them in a memory clouded by doubt.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wednesday, September 21</b>.&mdash;We broke camp soon after 9 o'clock, traveling
+northwesterly down the stream, which at six miles entered a ca&ntilde;on
+extending ten miles in a very tortuous course, the stream gradually
+bending to the west. The sides of the ca&ntilde;on are steep, and a great many
+small lateral streams flow into it, forming cascades of remarkable
+beauty. There are also many springs gushing out from the sides of the
+ca&ntilde;on afar up. Below the ca&ntilde;on we traveled over a high ridge for the
+distance of ten miles, and camped in a deep coulee, where we found good
+water and an abundance of wood and grass. Mr. Hauser and Mr. Stickney
+all through the day were a few miles in advance of the rest of the
+party, and just below the mouth of the ca&ntilde;on they met two men who
+manifested some alarm at sight of them. They had a supply of provisions
+packed on riding saddles, and were walking beside their horses. Mr.
+Hauser told them that they would meet a large party up the ca&ntilde;on, but we
+did not see them, and they evidently cached themselves as we went by.
+The Upper Madison in this vicinity is said to be a rendezvous for horse
+thieves. We have traveled about twenty-five miles to-day.
+</p>
+<p>
+As the outcome of a general conversation to-night, I will leave the
+party to-morrow morning, and start for Virginia City, where I have a
+forlorn hope that some tidings may be had of Mr. Everts. We think that
+Virginia City is not more than thirty miles distant; but, as we are not
+now on any trail leading to it, I shall have to take my chances of
+finding it.
+</p>
+<p>
+Jake Smith to-day asked me if I expected that the readers of my diary
+would believe what I had written. He said that he had kept no diary for
+the reason that our discoveries had been of such a novel character, that
+if he were to write an account of them he would not be believed by those
+who read his record, and he would be set down as a liar. He said that he
+did not mind being called a liar by those who had known him well for
+many years, but he would not allow strangers that privilege. This
+ambiguous remark indicates that Jake has more wit and philosophy than I
+have given him the credit of possessing.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Thursday, September 22, Virginia City</b>.&mdash;With a small supply of needed
+creature comforts (lunch, etc.), I left the party early this morning,
+uncertain as to the time which would be required to take me to Virginia
+City. About noon I met a horseman who had left Virginia City this
+morning, who directed me to the trail leading to the town. He paused
+long enough to let me scan a newspaper which he had, from which I
+learned of the capitulation of the French at Sedan. I asked him to hand
+the newspaper to General Washburn, whose party he would meet in the
+Madison valley. He said that he would stop at the cabin of "Bannack
+George."
+</p>
+<p>
+The distance from our morning camp to this place is much farther than we
+thought, and it was 9 o'clock this evening before I reached Virginia
+City. Nothing has been heard of Mr. Everts, and his friends are shocked
+at the intelligence of his loss from our party.
+</p>
+<p>
+Owing to the late hour of my arrival I have met but few of my old
+acquaintances, but these are greatly interested in the result of our
+explorations, and I have promised to remain here another day before
+starting for Helena, and give them a further description of what I have
+seen. I have enjoyed one good square meal.
+</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuesday, September 27, Helena</b>.&mdash;I reached Helena last night. The
+intelligence of my arrival in Virginia City, and of the loss of Mr.
+Everts from our party, had been telegraphed to Helena from Virginia
+City, and on my arrival I was besieged by many of the friends of Mr.
+Everts for information concerning the manner in which he became
+separated from our party. I have spent the larger part of this day in
+describing the many wonders which we found on our trip, and I shall be
+most glad to have a few days' rest and put on some of my lost flesh. At
+the outset of this journey I tipped the beam of the scales at a little
+over one hundred and ninety (190) pounds, and to-day I weigh but one
+hundred and fifty-five (155) pounds, a loss of thirty-five (35) pounds.
+One of my friends says that I may consider myself fortunate in bringing
+back to civilization as much of my body as I did. I have already
+received several invitations from householders to meet their families
+and friends at their homes, and tell them of our trip, but the present
+dilapidated condition of my toilet renders it necessary for me to
+decline their hospitalities until some future period. My first duty to
+myself and my fellow citizens is to seek a tailor and replenish my
+wardrobe. Jake Smith is the only one of our party who has returned with
+a garment fit to wear in the society of ladies.
+</p>
+<p>
+My narrations to-day have excited great wonder, and I cannot resist the
+conviction that many of my auditors believe that I have "drawn a long
+bow" in my descriptions. I am perfectly free to acknowledge that this
+does not surprise me. It seems a most natural thing for them to do so;
+for, in the midst of my narrations, I find myself almost as ready to
+doubt the reality of the scenes I have attempted to describe as the most
+skeptical of my listeners. They pass along my memory like the faintly
+defined outlines of a dream. And when I dwell upon their strange
+peculiarities, their vastness, their variety, and the distinctive
+features of novelty which mark them all, so entirely out of the range of
+all objects that compose the natural scenery and wonders of this
+continent, I who have seen them can scarcely realize that in those
+far-off recesses of the mountains they have existed so long in
+impenetrable seclusion, and that hereafter they will stand foremost
+among the natural attractions of the world. Astonishment and wonder
+become so firmly impressed upon the mind in the presence of these
+objects, that belief stands appalled, and incredulity is dumb. You can
+see Niagara, comprehend its beauties, and carry from it a memory ever
+ready to summon before you all its grandeur. You can stand in the valley
+of the Yosemite, and look up its mile of vertical granite, and
+distinctly recall its minutest feature; but amid the ca&ntilde;on and falls,
+the boiling springs and sulphur mountain, and, above all, the mud
+volcano and the geysers of the Yellowstone, your memory becomes filled
+and clogged with objects new in experience, wonderful in extent, and
+possessing unlimited grandeur and beauty. It is a new phase in the
+natural world; a fresh exhibition of the handiwork of the Great
+Architect; and, while you see and wonder, you seem to need an additional
+sense, fully to comprehend and believe.
+</p>
+<hr>
+<center>
+FOOTNOTES:
+</center>
+<p>
+<a name="note-A"><!-- Note Anchor A --></a>[Footnote A: In his diary under date of August 22d General Washburn
+wrote: "Stood guard. Quite cold. Crows (Indians) near."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-B"><!-- Note Anchor B --></a>[Footnote B: On August 23d General Washburn wrote: "Indians of the Crow
+tribe."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-C"><!-- Note Anchor C --></a>[Footnote C: Near where Livingston is now located.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-D"><!-- Note Anchor D --></a>[Footnote D: Lieutenant Doane in his report to the War Department under
+date of August 24th writes: "Guards were established here during the
+night, as there were signs of a party of Indians on the trail ahead of
+us, all the members of the party taking their tours of this duty, and
+using in addition the various precautions of lariats, hobbles, etc., not
+to be neglected while traveling through this country."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-E"><!-- Note Anchor E --></a>[Footnote E: Under date of August 25th Lieutenant Doane writes: "From
+this camp was seen the smoke of fires on the mountains in front, while
+Indian signs became more numerous and distinct." Under date of August
+25th General Washburn wrote in his diary: "Have been following Indian
+trails, fresh ones, all the way. They are about two days ahead of us."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-F"><!-- Note Anchor F --></a>[Footnote F: These blanks were left in my diary with the intention of
+filling them, upon the selection by our party of a name for the creek;
+but after going into camp at Tower fall, the matter of selecting a name
+was forgotten. A few years later the stream was named Lost creek.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-G"><!-- Note Anchor G --></a>[Footnote G: In making a copy of my original diary, it is proper at this
+point to interpolate an account of the circumstances under which the
+name "Tower" was bestowed upon the creek and fall.
+</p>
+<p>
+At the outset of our journey we had agreed that we would not give to any
+object of interest which we might discover the name of any of our party
+nor of our friends. This rule was to be religiously observed. While in
+camp on Sunday, August 28th, on the bank of this creek, it was suggested
+that we select a name for the creek and fall. Walter Trumbull suggested
+"Minaret Creek" and "Minaret Fall." Mr. Hauser suggested "Tower Creek"
+and "Tower Fall." After some discussion a vote was taken, and by a small
+majority the name "Minaret" was decided upon. During the following
+evening Mr. Hauser stated with great seriousness that we had violated
+the agreement made relative to naming objects for our friends. He said
+that the well known Southern family&mdash;the Rhetts&mdash;lived in St. Louis, and
+that they had a most charming and accomplished daughter named "Minnie."
+He said that this daughter was a sweetheart of Trumbull, who had
+proposed the name&mdash;her name&mdash;"Minnie Rhett"&mdash;and that we had unwittingly
+given to the fall and creek the name of this sweetheart of Mr. Trumbull.
+Mr. Trumbull indignantly denied the truth of Hauser's statement, and
+Hauser as determinedly insisted that it was the truth, and the vote was
+therefore reconsidered, and by a substantial majority it was decided to
+substitute the name "Tower" for "Minaret." Later, and when it was too
+late to recall or reverse the action of our party, it was surmised that
+Hauser himself had a sweetheart in St. Louis, a Miss Tower. Some of our
+party, Walter Trumbull especially, always insisted that such was the
+case. The weight of testimony was so evenly balanced that I shall
+hesitate long before I believe either side of this part of the story.
+<br>
+
+N.P. LANGFORD.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-H"><!-- Note Anchor H --></a>[Footnote H: Now Called Inspiration Point.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-I"><!-- Note Anchor I --></a>[Footnote I: The above quotation is from a poem by John Keats.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-J"><!-- Note Anchor J --></a>[Footnote J: Dr. P.V. Hayden, geologist in charge of the U.S. Geological
+Survey, first visited this region in the summer of 1871&mdash;the year
+following the visit of the Washburn party, whose discoveries and
+explorations are recorded in this diary. Dr. Hayden, on his return,
+graphically described the various wonders which he saw, but had very
+little to say concerning the mud volcano. This fact was the more
+inexplicable to me for the reason that the Washburn party thought it one
+of the most remarkable curiosities to be found in that region, and I was
+greatly surprised to find that Dr. Hayden made so little allusion to it.
+</p>
+<p>
+In 1872, the year following Dr. Hayden's first visit, I again visited
+the volcano, and the omission by Hayden was explained as soon as I saw
+the volcano in its changed condition. The loud detonations which
+resembled the discharges of a gun-boat mortar were no longer heard, and
+the upper part of the crater and cone had in a great measure
+disappeared, leaving a shapeless and unsightly hole much larger than the
+former crater, in which large tree-tops were swaying to and fro in the
+gurgling mass, forty feet below&mdash;the whole appearance bearing testimony
+to the terrible nature of the convulsion which wrought such destruction.
+Lieutenant Doane, in his official report to the War Department, thus
+describes the volcano as it appeared in 1870:
+</p>
+<p>
+"A few hundred yards from here is an object of the greatest interest. On
+the slope of a small and steep wooded ravine is the crater of a mud
+volcano, 30 feet in diameter at the rim, which is elevated a few feet
+above the surface on the lower side, and bounded by the slope of the
+hill on the upper, converging, as it deepens, to the diameter of 15 feet
+at the lowest visible point, about 40 feet down. Heavy volumes of steam
+escape from this opening, ascending to the height of 300 feet. From far
+down in the earth came a jarring sound, in regular beats of five
+seconds, with a concussion that shook the ground at 200 yards' distance.
+After each concussion came a splash of mud, as if thrown to a great
+height; sometimes it could be seen from the edge of the crater, but none
+was entirely ejected while we were there. Occasionally an explosion was
+heard like the bursting of heavy guns behind an embankment, and causing
+the earth to tremble for a mile around. The distance to which this mud
+had been thrown is truly astonishing. The ground and falling trees near
+by were splashed at a horizontal distance of 200 feet. The trees below
+were either broken down or their branches festooned with dry mud, which
+appeared in the tops of the trees growing on the side hill from the same
+level with the crater, 50 feet in height, and at a distance of 180 feet
+from the volcano. The mud, to produce such effects, must have been
+thrown to a perpendicular elevation of at least 300 feet. It was with
+difficulty we could believe the evidence of our senses, and only after
+the most careful measurements could we realize the immensity of this
+wonderful phenomenon."
+</p>
+<p>
+The visitor to the Park who has read the description given by Washburn,
+Hedges, Doane or myself, of the mud volcano as it appeared in 1870, will
+readily perceive that it has undergone a great change since the time of
+its first discovery.
+</p>
+<p>
+In my account of my trip made in 1872, published in Scribner's (now
+Century) Magazine for June, 1873, I say, concerning this change: "A
+large excavation remained; and a seething, bubbling mass of mud, with
+several tree-tops swaying to and fro in the midst, told how terrible and
+how effectual must have been the explosions which produced such
+devastation. I could not realize that in this unsightly hole I beheld
+all that was left of those physical wonders which filled this
+extraordinary region. * * * Great trees that then decorated the hillside
+were now completely submerged in the boiling mass that remained."
+</p>
+<p>
+The trees with their green tops, which were visible in 1872, have now
+entirely disappeared. Can any one conjecture what has become of them?]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-K"><!-- Note Anchor K --></a>[Footnote K: Lieutenant Doane, on page 19 of his report to the War
+Department, says with reference to this surgical operation:
+</p>
+<p>
+"I had on the previous evening been nine days and nights without sleep
+or rest, and was becoming very much reduced. My hand was enormously
+swelled, and even ice water ceased to relieve the pain. I could scarcely
+walk at all, from excessive weakness. The most powerful opiates had
+ceased to have any effect. A consultation was held, which resulted in
+having the thumb split open. Mr. Langford performed the operation in a
+masterly manner, dividing thumb, bone, and all. An explosion ensued,
+followed by immediate relief. I slept through the night, all day, and
+the next night, and felt much better. To Mr. Langford, General Washburn,
+Mr. Stickney and the others of the party I owe a lasting debt for their
+uniform kindness and attention in the hour of need."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-L"><!-- Note Anchor L --></a>[Footnote L: Repeated efforts to ascend the Grand Teton, made prior to
+the year 1872, all terminated in failure. On the 29th day of July of
+that year the summit was reached by James Stevenson, of the U.S.
+Geological Survey, and Nathaniel P. Langford, the writer of this diary.
+An account of this ascent was published in Scribner's (now Century)
+Magazine for June, 1873. The next ascent was made in 1898 by Rev. Frank
+S. Spalding, of Erie, Pennsylvania, and W.O. Owen, of Wyoming, and two
+assistants. This ascent was accomplished after two failures of Mr. Owen
+in previous years to reach the summit. Mr. Owen then asserted that the
+summit of the mountain was not reached in 1872 by Stevenson and
+Langford. His efforts&mdash;in which Mr. Spalding had no part&mdash;to impeach the
+statement of these gentlemen failed utterly. Mr. Spalding, who was the
+first member of his party to reach the summit, writes: "I believe that
+Mr. Langford reached the summit because he says he did, and because the
+difficulties of the ascent were not great enough to have prevented any
+good climber from having successfully scaled the peak, * * * and I
+cannot understand why Mr. Owen failed so many times before he
+succeeded."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-M"><!-- Note Anchor M --></a>[Footnote M: The bay here referred to is at the "Thumb" Station.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-N"><!-- Note Anchor N --></a>[Footnote N: Captain Raynolds wrote on May 10, 1860: "To our front and
+upon the right the mountains towered above us to the height of from
+2,000 to 3,000 feet in the shape of bold, craggy peaks of basaltic
+formation, their summits crowned with glistening snow. * * * It was my
+original desire to go from the head of Wind river to the head of the
+Yellowstone, keeping on the Atlantic slope, thence down the Yellowstone,
+passing the lake, and across by the Gallatin to the Three forks of the
+Missouri. Bridger said, at the outset, that this would be impossible,
+and that it would be necessary to pass over to the head waters of the
+Columbia, and back again to the Yellowstone. I had not previously
+believed that crossing the main crest twice would be more easily
+accomplished than the travel over what in effect is only a spur; but the
+view from our present camp settled the question adversely to my opinion
+at once. Directly across our route lies a basaltic ridge, rising not
+less than 5,000 feet above us, the walls apparently vertical, with no
+visible pass nor even ca&ntilde;on. On the opposite side of this are the head
+waters of the Yellowstone."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-O"><!-- Note Anchor O --></a>[Footnote O: Later, in 1833, the indomitable Captain Bonneville was lost
+in this mountain labyrinth, and, after devising various modes of escape,
+finally determined to ascend the range.
+</p>
+<p>
+Washington Irving, in his charming history, "Bonneville's Adventures,"
+thus describes the efforts of General Bonneville and one of his comrades
+to reach the summit of this range:
+</p>
+<p>
+"After much toil he reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it was only
+to behold gigantic peaks rising all around, and towering far into the
+snowy regions of the atmosphere. He soon found that he had undertaken a
+tremendous task; but the pride of man is never more obstinate than when
+climbing mountains. The ascent was so steep and rugged that he and his
+companion were frequently obliged to clamber on hands and knees, with
+their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently, exhausted with fatigue
+and dripping with perspiration, they threw themselves upon the snow, and
+took handfuls of it to allay their parching thirst. At one place they
+even stripped off their coats and hung them upon the bushes, and thus
+lightly clad proceeded to scramble over these eternal snows. As they
+ascended still higher there were cool breezes that refreshed and braced
+them, and, springing with new ardor to their task, they at length
+attained the summit."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-P"><!-- Note Anchor P --></a>[Footnote P: Soon after the return of our party to Helena, General
+Washburn, then surveyor-general of Montana, made in his office for the
+Interior Department at Washington, a map of the Yellowstone region, a
+copy of which he gave to me. He told me that in recognition of the
+assistance I had rendered him in making a fair outline of Yellowstone
+lake, with its indented shore and promontories, he had named for me the
+mountain on the top of which I stood when I made the sketch of the south
+shore of the lake. I called his attention to the fact that Lieutenant
+Doane had been my comrade in making the ascent, and suggested that
+Doane's name be given to the adjoining peak on the north. He approved of
+this suggestion, and the map, with these mountains so named, was
+transmitted to the Interior Department.
+</p>
+<p>
+Dr. Hayden, the geologist in charge of the United States geological
+survey, made his first visit to this region the following year (1871),
+and on the map which he issued in connection with his 1871 report, the
+name "Mount Langford" was given to another mountain far to the
+northeast. Since that time my name has again been transferred to a
+mountain on the southeast. I think that Dr. Hayden must have been aware
+at that time that this mountain bore my name; for he had read the
+account of the Washburn exploration, which was published in Scribner's
+Magazine for May, 1871, accompanied by a copy of the map made by General
+Washburn.
+</p>
+<p>
+The significance of connecting my name with this mountain is centered in
+the circumstance that it was intended to mark or commemorate an
+important event&mdash;that of giving to the public a very correct outline map
+of Yellowstone lake. In confirmation of the fact that the first outline
+of the lake approximating any degree of accuracy was made from the
+mountain-top, I here quote from page 21 of Lieutenant Doane's report to
+the War Department.
+</p>
+<p>
+"The view from this peak commanded completely the lake, enabling us to
+sketch a map of its inlets and bearings with considerable accuracy."
+</p>
+<p>
+On page 23 of this report Lieutenant Doane speaks of this mountain as
+"Mount Langford." The map last published previous to that made by
+General Washburn was that of Captain Raynolds, of which I here present a
+copy, as well as a copy of the map made by me.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-Q"><!-- Note Anchor Q --></a>[Footnote Q: On our return to Helena, Walter Trumbull published, in the
+Helena Gazette, some incidents of our trip, and from his narrative I
+copy the following account of our hunt for the grizzly:
+</p>
+<p>
+"Some of the party who had gone a short distance ahead to find out the
+best course to take the next day, soon returned and reported a grizzly
+and her two cubs about a quarter of a mile from camp. Six of the party
+decorated themselves as walking armories, and at once started in
+pursuit. Each individual was sandwiched between two revolvers and a
+knife, was supported around the middle by a belt of cartridges, and
+carried in his hand a needle carbine. Each one was particularly anxious
+to be the first to catch the bear, and an exciting foot-race ensued
+until the party got within 300 yards of the place where the bear was
+supposed to be concealed. The foremost man then suddenly got out of
+breath, and, in fact, they all got out of breath. It was an epidemic. A
+halt was made, and the brute loudly dared to come out and show itself,
+while a spirited discussion took place as to what was best to do with
+the cubs. The location was a mountain side, thickly timbered with tall
+straight pines having no limbs within thirty feet of the ground. It was
+decided to advance more cautiously to avoid frightening the animal, and
+every tree which there was any chance of climbing was watched with
+religious care, in order to intercept her should she attempt to take
+refuge in its branches. An hour was passed in vain search for the
+sneaking beast, which had evidently taken to flight. Then this
+formidable war party returned to camp, having a big disgust at the
+cowardly conduct of the bear, but, as the darkie said, 'not having it
+bad.' Just before getting in sight of camp, the six invincibles
+discharged their firearms simultaneously, in order to show those
+remaining behind just how they would have slaughtered the bear, but more
+particularly just how they did not. This was called the 'Bear Camp.'"
+</p>
+<p>
+Mr. Trumbull was one of the party of hunters whose efforts to capture
+the bear he so well describes.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-R"><!-- Note Anchor R --></a>[Footnote R: Our subsequent journeying showed that Lieutenant Doane was
+right in his conjecture.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-S"><!-- Note Anchor S --></a>[Footnote S: The Honorable Granville Stuart, of Montana, in his book
+"Montana as It Is," published in 1865, says that there is another root
+found in portions of Montana which I have never seen. Mr. Stuart says:
+</p>
+<p>
+"Thistle-root is the root of the common thistle, which is very abundant
+in the bottoms along nearly all the streams in the mountain. They grow
+to about the size of a large radish, and taste very much like turnips,
+and are good either raw or cooked with meat."
+</p>
+<p>
+Captain William Clark, of the famous Lewis and Clark expedition, dropped
+the final <i>e</i> from the word cowse, spelling it c-o-w-s. Unless this
+error is noticed by the reader, he will not understand what Captain
+Clark meant when he said that members of his party were searching for
+the <i>cows</i>.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-T"><!-- Note Anchor T --></a>[Footnote T: Lieutenant Doane, in his official report to the War
+Department, says, concerning this episode:
+</p>
+<p>
+"Washburn and Langford * * * became entangled in an immense swampy
+brimstone basin, abounding in sulphur springs. * * * Mr. Langford's
+horse broke through several times, coming back plastered with the white
+substance and badly scalded."]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-U"><!-- Note Anchor U --></a>[Footnote U: The location of this camp is what is now called the "Thumb"
+station on the stage route.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-V"><!-- Note Anchor V --></a>[Footnote V: Analyses of the various specimens of mud taken from the
+springs in this locality, made on our return to Helena, gave the
+following results:
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+
+
+
+ <tr><td> White Sediment.</td><td>&nbsp; </td><td> Lavender Sediment. </td><td>&nbsp; </td><td> Pink Sediment.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Silica </td><td>42.2 </td><td>Silica </td><td> 28.2 </td><td> Silica </td><td> 32.6</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Magnesia </td><td>33.4 </td><td>Alumina </td><td> 58.6 </td><td> Alumina</td><td> 52.4</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Lime </td><td>17.8 </td><td>Boracic acid </td><td> 3.2 </td><td> Oxide of calcium </td><td>8.3</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Alkalis </td><td>6.6 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </td><td>Oxide of iron</td><td> 0.6 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </td><td> Soda and potassa &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td>4.2</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp; <td> ------ </td><td>Oxide of calcium </td><td>4.2 </td><td> Water and loss</td><td> 2.5</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp; </td><td> 100.0 </td><td> Water and loss</td><td> 5.2 <td>&nbsp; </td><td> -----</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp; </td><td>&nbsp; </td> <td>&nbsp; </td> <td> ----- </td> <td>&nbsp; </td> <td> 100.0</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp; </td><td>&nbsp; </td> <td>&nbsp; </td> <td> 100.0 </td></tr>
+
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+
+
+
+<p>
+These analyses were made by Professor Augustus Steitz, assayer of the
+First National Bank of Helena, Mont.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-W"><!-- Note Anchor W --></a>[Footnote W: On our return home, finding that no tidings of Mr. Everts
+had been received, Jack Baronette and George A. Prichett, two
+experienced trappers and old mountaineers, were provided with thirty
+days' provisions and dispatched in search of him, and by them Mr. Everts
+was found on October 16th, after wandering in the forest for
+thirty-seven days from the time he was lost. From the letter of Mr.
+Prichett addressed to Mr. Gillette, myself and others, I quote: "We
+found him on the 16th inst. on the summit of the first big mountain
+beyond Warm Spring creek, about seventy-five miles from Fort Ellis. He
+says he subsisted all this time on one snow bird, two small minnows and
+the wing of a bird which he found and mashed between two stones, and
+made some broth of in a yeast powder can. This was all, with the
+exception of thistle roots, he had subsisted on."
+</p>
+<p>
+The narrative of Mr. Everts, of his thirty-seven days' sojourn in the
+wilderness (published in Scribner's Magazine for November, 1871, and in
+volume V. of the Montana Historical Society publications), furnishes a
+chapter in the history of human endurance, exposure, and escape, almost
+as incredible as it is painfully instructive and entertaining.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-X"><!-- Note Anchor X --></a>[Footnote X: Our general line of travel from the southwest estuary of
+the lake (Thumb) to the Firehole river was about one mile south of the
+present stage route. The tourist who to-day makes the rapid and
+comfortable tour of the park by stage, looking south from Shoshone
+Point, may catch a glimpse of a portion of the prostrate forest through
+and over which we struggled, and thus form some idea of the difficulties
+which beset us on our journey from the lake to the Firehole river.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-Y"><!-- Note Anchor Y --></a>[Footnote Y: Called now Kepler's cascade.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-Z"><!-- Note Anchor Z --></a>[Footnote Z: An incident of so amusing a character occurred soon after
+my return to Helena, that I cannot forbear narrating it here. Among the
+specimens of silica which I brought home were several dark globules
+about the size of nutmegs. I exhibited these to a noted physician of
+Helena, Dr. Hovaker, and soon after the return of Mr. Gillette from his
+search for Mr. Everts, I called upon him at his store and exhibited to
+him these specimens of silica. At the same time I took a nutmeg from a
+box upon the store counter, and playfully asked Gillette, in the
+presence of Dr. Hovaker, if he had found any of those singular
+incrustations. Dr. Hovaker, believing of course that the specimen I held
+in my hand came from the Yellowstone, took the nutmeg, and with wonder
+exhibited in every feature, proceeded to give it a critical examination,
+frequently exclaiming: "How very like it is to a nutmeg." He finally
+took a nutmeg from a box near by, and balanced the supposed incrustation
+with it, declaring the former to be the lighter. Asking my permission to
+do so, he took the nutmeg (which he supposed to be an incrustation) to a
+jeweler in the vicinity, and broke it. The aroma left him no doubt as to
+its character, but he was still deceived as to its origin. When I saw
+him returning to the store, in anticipation of the reproof I should
+receive, I started for the rear door; but the Doctor, entering before I
+reached it, called me back, and in a most excited manner declared that
+we had discovered real nutmegs, and nutmegs of a very superior quality.
+He had no doubt that Yellowstone lake was surrounded by nutmeg trees,
+and that each of our incrustations contained a veritable nutmeg. In his
+excitement he even proposed to organize a small party to go immediately
+to the locality to gather nutmegs, and had an interview with Charley
+Curtis on the subject of furnishing pack animals for purposes of
+transportation. When, on the following day, he ascertained the truth,
+after giving me a characteristic lecture, he revenged himself by good
+naturedly conferring upon the members of our party the title, by which
+he always called them thereafter, of "Nutmegs."
+<br>
+
+N.P. LANGFORD.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-AA"><!-- Note Anchor AA --></a>[Footnote AA: James Bridger was famous for the marvelous stories he was
+accustomed to relate of his mountain life and experiences. He once told
+me that he had seen a river which flowed so rapidly over the smooth
+surface of a descending rock ledge in the bottom of the stream, that the
+water was "hot at the bottom." My experience in crossing the Firehole
+river that day, leads me to believe that Bridger had had, at some time,
+a similar experience. He well knew that heat and fire could be produced
+by friction. Like other mountain men, he had doubtless, many a time,
+produced a fire by friction; and he could not account for the existence
+of a hot rock in the bed of a cold stream, except upon the theory that
+the rapid flow of water over the smooth surface evolved the heat, by
+friction.
+<br>
+
+N.P. LANGFORD.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-AB"><!-- Note Anchor AB --></a>[Footnote AB: This lake is now called "Hell's Half-acre;" and from the
+lower lake the "Excelsior" geyser has burst forth.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-AC"><!-- Note Anchor AC --></a>[Footnote AC: The fountain and jets here referred to are those of the
+Lower Geyser Basin, and the larger column of water which we saw is
+undoubtedly the "Fountain" geyser, named by Dr. Hayden in 1871.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-AD"><!-- Note Anchor AD --></a>[Footnote AD: In the course of a recent correspondence with Mr.
+Stickney, I asked him if he recalled this incident. Under date of May
+20, 1905, he wrote me from Sarasota, Florida: "The maple sugar incident
+had almost faded from my memory, but like a spark of fire smouldering
+under rubbish it needed but a breath to make it live, and I recall my
+reflections, after my astonishment, that you did so many quaint things,
+that it was quite in accordance with them that you should produce maple
+sugar in a sulphurous region."
+<br>
+
+N.P. LANGFORD.]
+</p>
+<p>
+<a name="note-AE"><!-- Note Anchor AE --></a>[Footnote AE: This stream was afterwards named "Gibbon river."]
+</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<a name="APX"><!-- APX --></a>
+<h2>
+ APPENDIX.
+</h2>
+
+<p>
+It is much to be regretted that our expedition was not accompanied by an
+expert photographer; but at the time of our departure from Helena, no
+one skilled in the art could be found with whom the hazards of the
+journey did not outweigh any seeming advantage or compensation which the
+undertaking promised.
+</p>
+<p>
+The accompanying sketches of the two falls of the Yellowstone, and of
+the cones of the Grand and Castle geysers, were made by Walter Trumbull
+and Private Moore. They are the very first ever made of these objects.
+Through an inadvertence in the preparation of the electroyped plates for
+the printer, they did not appear in their proper places in this diary.
+Major Hiram M. Chittenden, in his volume "The Yellowstone Park," says of
+the two sketches made by Private Moore: "His quaint sketches of the
+falls forcibly remind one of the original picture of Niagara, made by
+Father Hennepin, in 1697."
+</p>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/205bottom.jpg" width="450" height="325"
+alt="CASTLE GEYSER CONE. ORIGINAL SKETCH.">
+</center>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/205top.jpg" width="450" height="350"
+alt="GIANT GEYSER CONE. ORIGINAL SKETCH.">
+</center>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/246__.jpg" width="450" height="685"
+alt="Upper Fall of the Yellowstone. Original Sketch">
+</center>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/247.jpg" width="450" height="685"
+alt="Lower Fall of the Yellowstone.">
+</center>
+<center>
+<img src="./images/245.jpg" width="450" height="298"
+alt="Doing Guard Duty. Original Sketch.">
+</center>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11145 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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