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diff --git a/11124-h/11124-h.htm b/11124-h/11124-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1756d0a --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/11124-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,8370 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>Northumberland Yesterday and To-day, by Jean F. Terry</title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> +<style type="text/css"> + +body { margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + text-align: justify; } + +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5 {text-align: center; font-style: normal; font-weight: +normal; line-height: 1.5; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: .5em;} + +h1 {font-size: 300%; + margin-top: 0.6em; + margin-bottom: 0.6em; + letter-spacing: 0.12em; + word-spacing: 0.2em; + text-indent: 0em;} +h2 {font-size: 150%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} +h3 {font-size: 150%; margin-top: 2em;} +h4 {font-size: 120%;} +h5 {font-size: 110%;} + +hr {width: 80%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em;} + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always; margin-top: 4em;} + +p {text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: 0.25em; + margin-bottom: 0.25em; } + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} + +p.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: 90%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +p.letter {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +p.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +p.center {text-align: center; + text-indent: 0em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +p.right {text-align: right; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +p.footnote {font-size: 90%; + text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +sup { vertical-align: top; font-size: 0.6em; } + +p.asterism {text-align: center; + font-size: 150%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; } + +div.fig { display:block; + margin:0 auto; + text-align:center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em;} + +a:link {color:blue; text-decoration:none} +a:visited {color:blue; text-decoration:none} +a:hover {color:red} + +</style> + +</head> + +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11124 ***</div> + +<div class="fig" style="width:60%;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" style="width:100%;" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +<h1>Northumberland Yesterday and To-day</h1> + +<h2>by Jean F. Terry, L.L.A.</h2> + +<h3>(St. Andrews), 1913.</h3> + +<p class="letter"> +<i>To Sir Francis Douglas Blake,<br/> +this book is inscribed in admiration of<br/> +an eminent Northumbrian.</i> +</p> + +<hr /> + +<h2>Contents</h2> + +<table summary="" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto"> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#pref01">INTRODUCTORY.</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap00">NORTHUMBERLAND YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap01">CHAPTER I. The Coast of Northumberland</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap02">CHAPTER II. North and South Tyne</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap03">CHAPTER III. Down the Tyne</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap04">CHAPTER IV. Newcastle-upon-Tyne</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap05">CHAPTER V. Elswick and its Founder</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap06">CHAPTER VI. The Cheviots</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap07">CHAPTER VII. The Roman Wall</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap08">CHAPTER VIII. Some Northumbrian Streams</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap09">CHAPTER IX. Drum and Trumpet</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap10">CHAPTER X. Tales and Legends</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap11">CHAPTER XI. Ballads and Poems</a></td> +</tr> + +</table> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus01"></a> +<a href="images/001.jpg"> +<img src="images/001.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="Illustration: +Bamburgh Castle." /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>Bamburgh Castle.</b></p> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h2>List of Illustrations</h2> + +<table summary="" style=""> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus01">Bamburgh Castle.</a> <i>From photograph by J.P. Gibson, Hexham</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus02">The Priory, Tynemouth.</a> <i>From photograph by T.H. Dickinson, Sheriff Hill</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus03">Untitled</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus04">Hexham Abbey from North West.</a> <i>From photograph by J.P. Gibson, Hexham</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus05">The River Tyne at Newcastle (showing Swing Bridge Open).</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus06">Untitled</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus07">Newcastle-upon-Tyne.</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus08">Untitled</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus09">North Gateway, Housesteads and Roman Wall.</a> <i>From photograph by J.P. Gibson, Hexham</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus10">Untitled</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus11">Alnwick Castle.</a> <i>From photograph by J.P. Gibson, Hexham</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus12">The Wreck of the “Forfarshire”.</a> <i>From illustration kindly lent by B. Rowland Hill, Newcastle</i></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus13">Drawing of boat</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#illus14">Sketch Map Of Northumberland.</a> <i>From a Drawing by C.H. Abbey</i></td> +</tr> + +</table> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="pref01"></a>INTRODUCTORY.</h2> + +<p> + The following book makes no pretensions to be a mine of deep historical + research or antiquarian lore; its object will have been achieved, and + its existence to some extent justified, if haply by its aid some of the + dwellers in this northern county of ours, with its past so full of + action, and its present so rich in the memorials of those actions, may + pass a pleasant hour in becoming acquainted through its pages with the + happenings which have taken place in their own particular fields, their + own streets, or by their own riverside. +</p> +<p> + I am aware that many learned volumes on this subject, representing an + enormous amount of patient labour and careful research in their + compilation, are already in existence. To such this little book can in + no sense be a rival; but there must be many people who have not a + superabundance of time, to enable them to dig out the information for + which they wish, from these various sources; nor can they always make + these volumes their own, to be consulted at leisure. +</p> +<p> + Northumbrians have always been interested in the records of their own + county, and are now-a-days not less so than when, some three-and-a-half + centuries ago, Roger North found them “great antiquarians within their + own bounds.” If to such as these this little book may perhaps bring in a + more convenient form the information they seek, and help them to become + better acquainted with the county which inspired Swinburne to write in + stirring phrases of “Northumberland,” and to address the home of his + people as +</p> +<pre> + “Land beloved, where nought of legend’s dream + Outshines the truth”— +</pre> +<p> + I shall be more than satisfied. I would take this opportunity of + expressing my grateful thanks to the Rev. Canon Savage, of Hexham, for + information relating to the tomb of Alfwald the Just, in the Abbey, + given with courteous readiness; to the Rev. Canon Jeffery, of Bywell, + for similar kindness regarding Bywell St. Peter’s; to R.O. Heslop, Esq., + whose profound store of learning on the subject of “Northumberland + words” was in cases of uncertainty my final court of appeal; to E.T. + Nisbet, Esq., and J. Treble, Esq., to whom I am greatly indebted for + their goodness in reading my manuscript, and for their generous + encouragement following thereupon; to C.H. Abbey, Esq., for his kindness + in executing the map which accompanies these pages; and to Mr. G.P. + Dunn, of Corbridge, for much helpful criticism, and many suggestions + which only want of space has prevented my adopting in their entirety. +</p> + +<p class="right"> +J.F.T. +</p> + +<p class="letter"> + <i>31st May</i>, 1913. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap00"></a>NORTHUMBERLAND YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY</h2> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap01"></a>CHAPTER I.<br/>THE COAST OF NORTHUMBERLAND.</h2> + +<pre> + “We’ll see nae mair the sea banks fair, + And the sweet grey gleaming sky, + And the lordly strand of Northumberland, + And the goodly towers thereby.” + + —<i>A.C. Swinburne</i>. +</pre> +<p> + Wild and bleak it may be, hard and cruel at times it undoubtedly is, + but, nevertheless, this north-east coast of ours is at all times + inspiring, whether half-hidden by storm-clouds, its cliffs and hollows + lashed by the “wild north-easter,” or seen calmly brooding in the warm + haze of a summer’s day, its grey-blue water smiling beneath the + grey-blue sky, and its stretches of sand and bents edging the sea with a + border of gold and silver. +</p> +<p> + In keeping with either mood of nature, the ancient Priory of Tynemouth, + standing on the sandstone cliffs on the northern bank of the Tyne, + rearing its grey and roofless walls above the harbour mouth, strikes a + note that is symbolic of the Northumbria of old and the Northumberland + of to-day—the note, that is, of the intimate commingling of the romance + of the warlike past and the romance of the industrial present. Here, + above the mouth of the river on which so many of the most noteworthy + advances in industrial science have been made, and out of which sail the + vessels which are often the last word of the moment in marine + engineering and construction, stand calmly looking down upon them all + the fragments of a building which was a century old when John signed + Magna Charta, and which stands upon the site of another that had already + braved the storms of nearly five hundred years. +</p> +<p> + Looking upon the Priory of St. Mary and St. Oswin we are carried back to + the days when Edwin, the first king of Northumbria to embrace + Christianity, built a little church here, in which his daughter took the + veil. King Oswald had the first wooden structure replaced by a stone + one; and here, in 651, the body of another good king—Oswyn—was brought + for burial from Gilling, near Richmond in Yorkshire, where, disbanding + his army, he sacrificed his cause and his life to Oswy of Bernicia, with + whom he had been about to fight. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus02"></a> +<a href="images/010.jpg"> +<img src="images/010.jpg" width="315" height="500" alt="Illustration: +The Priory, Tynemouth." /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>The Priory, Tynemouth.</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + When the pirate ships of the Danes swept down upon our coasts, the + Priory of St. Oswin, conspicuous on its bold headland, could not hope to + escape their ravages. It was destroyed by the fierce invaders; but King + Ecgfrith<a href="#fn-1" name="fnref-1" id="fnref-1"><sup>[1]</sup></a> of Northumbria restored the shattered shrine. Again, in the + year 865, it was sacked and burnt, and the poor nuns of St. Hilda, who + had already fled from Hartlepool to Tynemouth hoping to find safety, + were ruthlessly slain and earned the crown of martyrdom. It was again + restored; but, five years later, the destroying hands of the invaders + fell on the place once more, and for two hundred years the Priory stood + roofless and tenantless. After the Norman Conquest, Waltheof, Earl of + Northumberland bestowed it upon the monks of Jarrow. The rediscovery of + the tomb of St. Oswyn in 1065, had gladdened the hearts of the monks, + and forthwith the monastery was reared anew over the ashes of its former + self. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-1" id="fn-1"></a> <a href="#fnref-1">[1]</a> +Pronounced “Edge-frith.” +</p> + +<p> + Mowbray, the next Earl of Northumberland, re-endowed the building. He + had quarrelled with the Bishop of Durham, so in order to do him a + displeasure, he made Tynemouth Priory subordinate to St. Albans instead + of to Durham and brought monks from St. Albans to dwell there. The new + buildings were finished in 1110, and the bones of St. Oswyn enshrined + within them, the right of sanctuary being extended for a mile around his + resting-place. This right, however, was already in existence, and had + been appealed to in 1095 by Mowbray himself, who fled here pursued by + the followers of William Rufus, against whom he had rebelled. The King’s + men disregarded the sanctuary right, captured Mowbray, and sent him + prisoner to Durham<a href="#fn-2" name="fnref-2" id="fnref-2"><sup>[2]</sup></a>. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-2" id="fn-2"></a> <a href="#fnref-2">[2]</a> +See account of Bamburgh Castle. +</p> + +<p> + In later days the queens of Edward I. and Edward II. visited Tynemouth + Priory; and it was from Tynemouth that the foolish King Edward II. and + his worthless favourite Piers Gaveston fled from the angry barons to + Scarborough. In the reign of Edward III., after the battle of Neville’s + Cross, David of Scotland was brought here by his captors on his way to + Bamburgh, from whence he was sent to the Tower. +</p> +<p> + At the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII. the Priory was + inhabited by eighteen monks with their Prior. They bowed to the King’s + decree and left the monastery; but the church continued to be used as + the parish church until the days of Charles II., when Christ Church was + built. +</p> +<p> + The Priory has many times formed the subject of pictures by famous + artists, the best known being that of no less a genius than J. M. W. + Turner; and its picturesque ruins are a well-known landmark to the + hundreds of voyagers who pass it on their journeys, outward or homeward + bound. Within the last few years the Priory has been in some measure + repaired and restored. +</p> +<p> + There is but little left of Tynemouth Castle, which was built as a + protection for the monastery against the attacks of the Danes. It stands + in a commanding position on a neighbouring cliff, and is now used as + barracks for garrison artillery corps. During the days when Scotland + harried the English borders, the Priors of Tynemouth maintained a + garrison here; and later, in Stuart days, Charles I. visited the North, + and the fortress was strengthened just before the outbreak of the Civil + War. It was captured, notwithstanding, by Leslie, Earl of Leven, after + he had left Newcastle. Colonel Lilburn, left in charge as governor, + shortly afterwards avowed himself on the side of King Charles; but he + speedily paid for his change of allegiance, for the Castle was re-taken + by a force from Newcastle under Sir Arthur Hazelrigg, and Lilburn lost + his life in the fight. The Castle has long been used as a dep ôt for the + storage of arms and ammunition. Behind the Spanish Battery which + commands the entrance to the Tyne stands a statue of the famous + North-countryman, Admiral Collingwood. +</p> +<p> + Connected with Tynemouth, by the fact that a small chantry belonging to + the Priory once stood there, is St. Mary’s Island. One may walk + unhindered at low tide across the rocks to this favourite place, but + where the chantry stood there is now a lighthouse with a powerful + lantern, flashing its welcome light to the seafarers nearing the mouth + of the Tyne, and extending +</p> +<pre> + “To each and all our equal lamp, at peril of the sea, + The white wall-sided war-ships, or the whalers of Dundee.” +</pre> +<p> + Between Tynemouth and St. Mary’s Island lie Cullercoats, Whitley Bay, + and Monkseaton, and together these places make practically one extended + seaside town, stretching for three or four miles along the sea-front, + and joined by a fine parade which leads to open links at Monkseaton. Of + these places Cullercoats is most noteworthy. This picturesque fishing + village, with quaint old houses perched in every conceivable position on + the curve of its rocky bay, is, needless to say, a favourite camping + ground for artists. The Cullercoats fishwife, with her cheerful + weather-bronzed face, her short jacket and ample skirts of blue flannel, + and her heavily laden “crees” of fish is not only appreciated by the + brotherhood of brush and pencil, but is one of the notable sights of the + district. At Cullercoats is struck a note of the most modern of modern + achievements—the Wireless Telegraphy Station (225 feet); and here, too, + is situated the Dove Marine Laboratory, looked after by scientists on + the staff of the Armstrong College at Newcastle. +</p> +<p> + In fine weather the crowds which pass and repass along the top of the + bold cliffs which overlook the fine stretch of sands between Cullercoats + and Monkseaton show how many hundreds of Northumbria’s busy workers + enjoy the fresh breezes from the sea on this pleasant and bracing coast. + Out at sea, opposite the Parade, vessels built in the busy shipyards on + the Tyne may be seen doing their speed trials over the measured mile. + The Peace of St. Oswyn may, in fact, be said to brood over Tynemouth, + even in these days, for it is an increasing custom for those who can do + so to remain in Newcastle and other busy centres of toil only during + business hours, and to leave workshop and office every evening for their + home by the sea: while the tide of noisy, happy, boisterous + excursionists has rolled on to Whitley Bay, leaving Tynemouth to its + old-time sleepy content. Northward to Hartley and Seaton Sluice the + cliffs are very fine. Hartley, with its bright-looking red-tiled houses, + once belonged to Adam of Gesemuth (Jesmond) who lived in the reign of + King John. Coming down to modern times, about thirty years ago a gallant + Hartley man, Thomas Langley, rescued two successive shipwrecked crews on + the same day, in one case allowing himself to be lowered over the cliffs + at a terrible risk in the furious storm. +</p> +<p> + Seaton Sluice belongs to the ancient family of the Delavals, whose + house, Delaval Hall, may be seen not far away, peeping from amongst the + trees which surround it. Seaton Sluice owes its name to the Delaval who + placed the large sluice gates upon the burn, in order to have a strong + current which, in rushing down to the sea, would be able to wash the + mouth of the stream clear from the silt and mud brought in by the + incoming tide. A later baronet, Sir John Hussey Delaval, made the + cutting through the solid rock which is so striking a feature of the + harbour. It was ready for the entrance of vessels in March, 1763. +</p> +<p> + Delaval Hall is now owned by Lord Hastings, the present representative + of the Delavals, which family became extinct in the male line early in + the nineteenth century. The last Delaval, a very learned man, was buried + in Westminster Abbey in 1814. The Hall was built for Admiral Delaval in + 1707 to the design of Sir J. Vanbrugh, who also designed Blenheim + Palace, given by the nation to the great Duke of Marlborough about the + same time. +</p> +<p> + Hartley Colliery, about half a mile away, has a sad interest as being + the scene of the terrible accident in 1862, when a number of men and + boys were imprisoned in the workings owing to the blocking up of the + only shaft by a mass of d ébris, caused by the fall of an iron beam + belonging to the pumping engine at the pit-head. Before the shaft could + be cleared and a way opened to the workings, all the poor fellows had + died, overcome by the deadly “choke-damp.” Joseph Skipsey, the pitman + poet, in a simple ballad, tells the pathetic story. +</p> +<pre> + “Oh, father! till the shaft is rid, + Close, close beside me keep; + My eyelids are together glued, + And I,—and I,—must sleep.” + + “Sleep, darling, sleep, and I will keep + Close by—heigh ho.”—To keep + Himself awake the father strives. + But he—he, too—must sleep. + + “Oh mother dear! wert, wert thou near + Whilst—sleep!” The orphan slept; + And all night long, by the black pit-heap + The mother a dumb watch kept. +</pre> +<p> + From here, northward, the coast is rather dull and uninteresting, + although the sands are fine, until we reach Blyth, at the mouth of the + little river of the same name. This town is growing rapidly in size and + importance; the export of coal has greatly increased since the harbour + was so much improved by Sir Matthew White Ridley, and now totals some + millions of tones a year. The river Wansbeck not far north of the mouth + of the Blyth, in the latter part of its course flows through a district + begrimed by all the necessary accompaniments of the traffic in “black + diamonds,” and reaches the sea between the colliery villages of Cambois + and North Seaton. +</p> +<p> + On the point at the northern curve of Newbiggin Bay stands Newbiggin + Church, and ancient building, whose steeple, “leaning all awry,” is a + well-known landmark for sailors. The site of this church is in danger + of being undermined by the waves, and, indeed, part of the churchyard + crumbled away many years ago; but such defences as are possible have + been built up around it,—and the danger averted for a time. Newbiggin + itself is a large fishing village and an increasingly popular holiday + resort, for it possesses not only good sands but a wide moor near at + hand which provides one of the best of golf courses; and, also, a short + distance along the coast, are the attractive Fairy Rocks. +</p> +<p> + Newbiggin was a town of some importance in Plantagenet days, with a busy + harbour, and a pier; and in the reign of Edward II. it was required to + contribute a vessel towards the naval defence of the Kingdom. +</p> +<p> + Northward from Newbiggin Point is the magnificent sweep of Druridge Bay, + stretching in a fine curve of ten miles or more to Hauxley Haven. Here, + the sands of a warm golden colour, the wind-swept bents of silvery-grey, + and the vivid green of the grassy cliff tops edge the curve of the bay + with a line of bright and delicate colour, only thrown into greater + relief by the brown reefs and ridges which stretch out from the rocky + shores, and by the deep blue-green of the waves rolling inshore in long + majestic lines, to break into hissing foam on the sharp reefs, or slide + smoothly up the yellow sands in the centre of the bay. Above, beyond the + grassy tops of the cliffs, stretch deep woods, with the old pele-tower + of Cresswell looking out from amongst the trees, fields many-coloured + with their burden of varying crops, and wide lonely moors, where one may + walk for half a day without hearing any sound save the wild screaming of + sea-birds, or the whistle of the wind, with the low boom of the waves + below sounding a deep-toned accompaniment. The bay is not always so + peaceful, however, and many wild scenes and terrible shipwrecks have + taken place here, as everywhere along our wild north-east coast. The + Bondicar rocks, by Hauxley, and the cruel spikes of the reef at Snab + Point, near Cresswell, have betrayed many a gallant little vessel to her + doom. Not, however, without bringing on many an occasion proof of the + courage which is shown as a matter of course by the fisher folk on our + coasts. At Newbiggin, and Cresswell, for instance, deeds have been done, + which, in their simple unassuming heroism, may be taken as typical of + the hardy race which could count Grace Darling among its daughters. +</p> +<p> + About thirty years ago, a ship drove ashore off Cresswell one bitter + night in January, and the fisher folk crowded down to the shore, + watching with sorrowful eyes the hapless crew clinging to their + unfortunate vessel, which was slowly being broken up by the waves. There + was no lifeboat at Cresswell then, and all the men of the village, + except the old men who were past work, had gone northward, when the + oncoming storm prevented their return. The women and girls heard the + cries of the schooner’s crew, and mourned to each other their inability + to help. But one gallant-hearted girl, named Peggy Brown, cried out, “If + I thowt she could hing on a bit, I wad be away for the lifeboat.” But + between them and Newbiggin, the nearest lifeboat station, the Lyne Burn + runs into the sea, and spreads widely out over the sands; and the older + people told Peggy she could never cross the burn in the dark. She set + off, however, the thought of the drowning men hastening her on. For four + miles she made her way in the storm and darkness, partly along the + shore, scrambling over rock’s, and wading waist-deep through the Lyne + Burn and one or two other places where the waves had driven far up the + sands, and partly across Newbiggin Moor, where the icy wind tore at her + in her drenched clothing. She pressed on, however, and managed to reach + the coxswain’s house and give her message. The lifeboat was immediately + run out, and the men reached the wreck in time to save all the crew + except one, who had been washed overboard. +</p> +<p> + On another occasion one of the fishermen, named Tom Brown, was preparing + to go out, with the help of his two sons, in his own fishing coble to + the aid of a ship in distress on the reef. A carter had come down to the + beach, the better to watch the progress of events, and, terrified by the + thundering waves, his horse took fright, and in its plunging drove the + cart against the little boat, making a hole clear through one side. “Big + Tom,” as he was generally called, merely took off his coat, rolled it + into a bundle and stuffed it against the hole. Then he beckoned to + another fisherman, saying to him “Sit on that.” The man clambered in, + and without the loss of another minute these four heroes set off to save + their fellow creatures’ lives, with a broken and leaking boat in a heavy + sea. And they did it, reaching the brig only just in time, for it went + to pieces a few minutes after the shivering crew had been safely landed. +</p> +<p> + Incidents like these, which could be multiplied indefinitely, bring a + glow of pride to the heart, and a reassuring sense that the degeneration + of the race is not proceeding in such wholesale fashion—in the country + districts, at any rate—as the pessimists would have us believe. +</p> +<p> + At the northern extremity of Druridge Bay is the little fishing village + of Hauxley, with the chimneys and pit-head engines of Ratcliffe and + Broomhill Collieries darkening the sky to the south-west. Passing the + Bondicar rocks and rounding the point we enter the “fairway” for + Warkworth Harbour and Amble, where a brisk exportation of the coal of + the neighbourhood is carried on. +</p> +<p> + Lying out at sea, opposite Amble coastguard station, the white + lighthouse on Coquet Island keeps watch over the entrance to the + harbour. Some of the walls of the monastery, which stood on the island + in Saxon days, can now be seen forming part of the dwelling of the + lighthouse keeper. For many generations, too, hermit after hermit went + to dwell on this tiny islet, and St. Cuthbert himself is said to have + inhabited the little cell at one time. The island was captured by the + Scots in the Civil Wars of King Charles’s reign, and held by them for a + time. +</p> +<p> + The situation of Amble, at the mouth of the Coquet, has been looked upon + as convenient from very early days, for there are signs which tell us of + a population here at an early period. Several cist-vaens, or ancient + stone coffins, have been found near the town, and a broken Roman altar + was unearthed in the neighbourhood. The monastery which stood here, like + that on Holy Island, was, in later times, inhabited by Benedictine + monks, who were under the authority of the Prior of Tynemouth. William + the Conqueror gave the then Prior the right to collect the tithes of the + little town. +</p> +<p> + A short distance from Amble, and practically encircled by the Coquet + which here makes a wide sweep, we come upon Warkworth, prettiest of + villages, combining the beauties of sea-shore and river scenery, and + rich in the possession of that romantic castle, the ruins of which carry + the mind back to Saxon times; for they stand on the site of an older + fortress erected by Ceolwulf, a Saxon King of Northumbria. He was the + patron of Bede, who dedicated his “Ecclesiastical History” to his royal + friend. Ceolwulf built both the fortress and the earliest church at + Warkworth, and a few stones of this latter building are still to be + seen. In 737, two years after the death of Bede, this royal Saxon laid + aside his kingly state and became a monk on Lindisfarne, +</p> +<pre> + “When he, for cowl and beads, laid down + The Saxon battle-axe and crown.” +</pre> +<p> + It was when the castle was bestowed by Edward III. upon Lord Percy of + Alnwick that it became, for more than two hundred years, the chief + residence of that illustrious family; becoming in the next reign of + historical value as the home of that Hotspur whose valour and gallantry + made Henry IV. envy the Earl of Northumberland, in that he “should be + the father of so blest a son.” In Act II., Scene 3 of “Henry IV.,” Part + II., Shakespeare has laid the scene at Warkworth Castle, where Hotspur’s + wife, troubled by her lord’s moody abstraction, tries to win from him + the reason of his secret care. And after the battle of Shrewsbury, + Rumour, flying with the news of Hotspur’s death, says:— +</p> +<pre> + “Thus have I rumoured through the peasant towns, + Between the royal field of Shrewsbury + And this worm-eaten hold of ragged stone, + Where Hotspur’s father, old Northumberland, + Lies crafty-sick.” +</pre> +<p> + Two years after this, the castle was besieged by Henry IV. himself, and + surrendered to him after a brief bombardment by the newly invented + cannon. The keep was re-built by Hotspur’s son, after the family + possessions had been restored to him by Henry V., and it is now the only + remaining part of the castle which is almost perfect. One of the + half-ruinous towers remaining is called the Lion Tower, from the + sculptured lion on its walls; while another rejoices in the curious name + of Cradyfargus. A strange story is told of a blue stone to be seen in + the courtyard of the castle. Many years ago, so runs the tale, one of + the custodians of Warkworth Castle dreamed three nights in succession + that a large treasure was concealed beneath a blue stone in a certain + part of the castle grounds. He told this dream to a neighbour, and after + allowing two or three days to pass, finding the dream constantly + recurring to his mind, he thought he would go to the place indicated, + and see what he could find. To his disappointment, however, he + discovered that some one had been there before him; a large hole had + been dug, and on the edge of it lay the blue stone. +</p> +<p> + Needless to say, the hole was empty, nor could the keeper discover + anything about the treasure in the neighbourhood. It is said that a + certain family in the village became suddenly rich; and, many years + afterwards, a large and ancient pot, supposed to have been that in which + the buried treasure had been contained, was found in the Coquet. +</p> +<p> + The main street of Warkworth leads straight up to the postern gate of + the castle, and many stirring sights have the successive inhabitants of + the little village looked upon, as the fortunes of the owners of the + castle waxed and waned throughout the many centuries in which the lords + of Warkworth played a notable part in the history of England. They saw + Henry Percy, entrusted with a share in the safe keeping of the country, + set out from Warkworth for Durham, to help in winning the victory of + Neville’s Cross. +</p> +<p> + They saw Hotspur’s force set out for the Cheviots to intercept Douglas + and his followers, which they did at Homildon Hill, near Wooler; and it + was the quarrel in connection with the prisoners taken on that day which + led Hotspur and his father openly to throw off their allegiance to + Henry IV., so that a few months later the peasants of Warkworth saw + their idolised young lord set out for what was to prove the fatal field + of Shrewsbury. They saw Hotspur’s father, the first Henry Percy to + receive the title of Earl, (a title which had been given him at the + coronation of Richard II.) set out with a brave force after Hotspur’s + departure; and they saw his return, almost alone, dejected and broken in + spirit, having learnt that the help so tardily given had come too late, + and the life of his gallant son was ended. +</p> +<p> + They saw the siege train of Henry Bolingbroke laid against the castle, + directed by Henry in person, provoked into these active measures by the + open rebellion of father and son, though Northumberland had tried to + make it appear that he was innocent of any treasonable act. After + capturing the castle, Bolingbroke bestowed it on his third son, John of + Lancaster, and the villagers saw the young prince riding in and out + among them daily so long as he made the castle his home. +</p> +<p> + Then, in the next reign, they welcomed the return of Hotspur’s son, + Henry, to the home of his fathers, restored to him by Henry V.; and, + within a short time, saw him bring home his bride, Eleanor Neville, + daughter of his friend and neighbour, the Earl of Westmoreland. +</p> +<p> + In the Wars of the Roses, Warkworth Castle saw many changes of fortune, + as the tide of victory flowed this way and that. The Percies were all + Lancastrians, though Sir Ralph Percy changed sides twice. The castle + fell into the hands of the Yorkists, and the great Earl of Warwick, the + “King-maker” himself, made it his headquarters for a time, while he + superintended the sieges of Alnwick, Dunstanborough, and Bamburgh, which + were all invested at the same time. Eventually, after the Wars of the + Roses concluded, Warkworth was restored, along with the other Percy + estates, to its original owners. +</p> +<p> + Finally, the inhabitants of the little village saw the church entered by + the Jacobites in 1715, when Mr. Buxton, chaplain of the little force, + prayed for James III. and Mary the Queen-mother; and General Forster, + dressed as a trumpeter, proclaimed King James III. at the village cross. +</p> +<p> + A few miles north from the mouth of the Coquet, the little Aln spreads + over the sandy flats near Alnmouth, and reaches the sea. It has changed + its course, for at one time it flowed to the south of Church Hill, + instead of to the north as at present. The town of Alnmouth, viewed from + the train just before entering Alnmouth Station, looks very picturesque, + especially if the rare sunshine of an English summer should be lighting + up the bay, bringing out the vivid red of the tiled roofs against the + grassy hills fringing the links which lie on their seaward side, and + lighting up, also, the yellow sands and long lines of sparkling wavelets + edged with white. +</p> +<p> + Alnmouth depends for its living on a fleet of fishing boats, and on the + numbers of visitors who seek its fresh breezes and inviting shores each + summer. Golfers, indeed, find it pleasant all the year round, as there + is only a scarcely appreciable interval in the winter months when their + favourite pastime cannot be followed on the breezy links. On Church + Hill, now crowned by a few old stones, once stood a Norman church, + dedicated to St. Valery, which, in its turn, occupied the site of an + older Saxon building, supposed to have been the church which Bede refers + to as being at Twyford, where a great synod of clergy was held in the + year 684, and Cuthbert appointed Bishop of Lindisfarne. It is a matter + of dispute whether this Twyford was Alnmouth or Whittingham, but the + two fords at Alnmouth seem to point to a decision in favour of that + place. The old Norman church, which fell into ruin at the beginning of + last century, was fired at by the famous pirate Paul Jones; the cannon + shot, weighing 68 pounds, missed the church, but struck a neighbouring + farm house, doing great damage. +</p> +<p> + The coast north of Alnmouth becomes rocky and wild, and very + picturesque, and the villages along the coast are being sought out by + holiday makers in increasing numbers, year by year. Boulmer, one of + these villages, was a famous place for smuggling in the old days, and + many an exciting scene and sharp encounter took place between the + smugglers and the King’s men. Not far away is Howick Dene, a lovely + little glen leading down to the sea from Howick Hall, the home of Earl + Grey. +</p> +<p> + Cullernose Point, a striking crag, is formed by the outcrop of a portion + of the Great Whin Sill, which from here can be traced to the south-west, + and thence right across the county. +</p> +<p> + At Craster, another fishing village and a favourite holiday haunt, is + Craster Tower, which has been the home of the family of Craster since + before the Conquest. Not far to the north is the famous Rumble Churn in + the rocks below Dunstanborough Castle, where the waves roll in and out + of the caves and chasms with weird and hollow rumblings. There is + another Rumbling Churn in the cliffs near Howick. +</p> +<p> + The famous divine of the Middle Ages, John Duns Scotus, was born in this + parish—that of Embleton; the group of buildings known as Dunston Hall, + or Proctor’s Steads, is supposed to have been his birthplace, and a + portrait of the learned doctor is to be seen there. +</p> +<p> + Dunstanborough Castle stands in lonely grandeur on great whinstone + crags, close to the very edge of the sea, and on the first sight of it, + Keats’ wonderful lines spring involuntarily to the lips:— +</p> +<pre> + “Magic casements, opening on the foam + Of perilous seas, in faery lands forlorn.” +</pre> +<p> + Forlorn, indeed, though not in exactly the sense conveyed by the poem, + is this huge fortress now; it abides, says Freeman, “as a castle should + abide, in all the majesty of a shattered ruin.” The primitive cannon of + the days of the Wars of the Roses began to shatter those mighty walls, + and, unlike Bamborough, it has never been strengthened since. Simon de + Montford once owned this estate, and the next lord of Dunstanborough was + a son of Henry III., to whom Earl Simon’s forfeited estate was given. + His eldest son, Thomas of Lancaster, took part with the barons in + bringing the unworthy favourite of Edward II., Piers Gaveston, to his + death. Under the King’s anger, Lancaster went away to his Northumbrian + estate, and began to build this mighty fortress, though he already owned + the castles of Kenilworth and Pontefract. In the Wars of the Roses, + Dunstanborough Castle was taken and retaken no less than five times, and + Queen Margaret found refuge here, as well as at Bamburgh; but apart from + these occasions, Dunstanborough has not taken nearly so great a part in + either local or national history as the other Northumbrian castles of + Bamburgh, Warkworth, and Alnwick, though greater in extent than any of + them. In 1538 an official report describes “Dunstunburht” as “a very + reuynous howse”; and the process of dilapidation was soon aided by + enterprising dwellers in the neighbourhood using the stones of the + forsaken castle to build their own homesteads. +</p> +<p> + From the castle northward curves Embleton Bay, in which, after having + been buried in the sand for ages, a sandstone rock was uncovered by the + tide, having on its surface, chiselled in rough but distinct lettering, + the name “Andra Barton.” Sir Andrew Barton, daring Scottish sea-captain + and fearless freebooter, was slain in a sea-fight off this part of the + coast, in the days of Henry VIII., by the sons of Surrey, one of whom, + Sir Thomas Howard, was Lord Admiral at the time, and so, in a measure, + responsible for the defence of the English coast. The loss of his brave + sea-captain and his “goodly ships” was one of the grievances in the long + list which led King James IV. to declare war against England, and led to + the fatal field of Flodden, in which Admiral Sir Thomas Howard and his + brother took part under the command of their father, the Earl of Surrey. +</p> +<p> + The wide sweep of grassy common beyond the sands in Embleton Bay is, in + summer time, covered with a profusion of wild flowers, chief amongst + them being the wild geranium, or meadow cranes-bill, whose + reddish-purple blossoms grow in such abundance as to arrest the + attention of every visitor. A little way back from the sea-shore, in the + middle of this wide space, lies the village of Embleton, which possesses + an ancient and interesting church, and a vicarage, part of which is + formed by an old pele-tower. Embleton would seem to have a reputation to + keep up in the way of famous churchmen. Duns Scotus has been already + mentioned; and one of the vicars here was a cousin of Richard Steele, + the essayist and friend of Addison; and he described the country squires + of his day in a paper which he contributed to the “Spectator” of that + date, 1712. +</p> +<p> + Another Vicar of Embleton, who lived here from 1874 to 1884, was Dr. + Mandell Creighton, the learned historian, who became Bishop of London. +</p> +<p> + The well-known journalist, W.T. Stead, was born in the parish of + Embleton, though his childhood was passed in very different + surroundings, in the narrow streets and grimy atmosphere of + Howdon-on-Tyne. His recent death on the ill-fated <i>Titanic</i> will be + fresh in the minds of all. +</p> +<p> + Newton-by-the-Sea is reached by a pleasant walk along the sea-shore. (It + is to be understood that in this journey along the coast we are moving + northward always). There is here a cheery-looking white-washed + coastguard station standing on the bold headland of Newton Point. +</p> +<p> + Past this point is Beadnell Bay, with green and grassy Beadnell just + beyond Little Rock. The small fishing harbour at Beadnell has the unique + distinction of being the only harbour on the east coast whose mouth + faces west, and the short pier, running <i>inland</i> from rocks to shore, + acts as a breakwater against the heavy easterly or southeasterly seas + and makes the harbour a safe anchorage for fishing craft or small + yachts. The rocks around this bay are very interesting, showing the + various strata very plainly, and containing many fossils. The striking + cliff called Ebbe’s Nook is supposed to have been named after the Saxon + princess Ebba, sister to King Oswald, and the ruins which were + discovered on the headland, to be all that is left of a chapel erected + to her memory. +</p> +<p> + At Seahouses is an extensive fish-curing establishment, a fact which + proclaims itself unmistakably as you near the village, especially if the + day chance to be at all warm. A little distance from the shore is + another fishing village, North Sunderland, and northward from Seahouses + is the inn called The Monkshouse, from the fact that it once belonged to + the community on Lindisfarne. +</p> +<p> + Bamburgh Castle, magnificently placed on a lofty crag rising + perpendicularly from the greensward on the west or landward side, and + almost as steeply from the sea which washes the north and east sides, + lies like a majestic lion on its mighty rock “brooding on ancient + fame.” The voices of children at play on the sands below sound faint and + far in the still air; the sea birds, with the summer sunshine flashing + on their outspread wings, sweep round and round; in the far distance a + trail of smoke low down on the horizon marks the track of a passing + steamer; and near at hand, southward a little way from the castle cliff, + the rocky islets of the Farne group lie drowsily asleep on the + gently-heaving swell of the grey-blue waters. Behind the castle lies the + pretty old-fashioned village with its quaint hostelries and grove of + trees; and from the higher parts of the new golf-links the player may + look round on a view which would be difficult to match, comprising as it + does, the Farne Islands and Dunstanborough to the south, and northward, + Holy Island, with its castle and abbey and the bluish haze of smoke + lying over Berwick; while, on the western skyline, on a clear day, may + be seen the rounded caps of the Cheviots. +</p> +<p> + The beginnings of Bamburgh take us back more than a thousand years, to + that long-ago summer of 547, when the <i>cyuls</i> (keels) of the marauding + Bernician chieftain Ida and his followers grounded on the shore of our + Northland, and the work of conquest began. Ida was not slow to grasp the + importance of such a commanding site as this isolated mass of basaltic + crag, and the rude stronghold which crowned it. It became in time a + formidable fortress, and remained for centuries the headquarters of the + kings of the North. +</p> +<p> + Here reigned Ida and his sons—six of them—for more or less short and + stormy periods, and Ethelric of Bernicia, who vanquished the + neighbouring prince of Deira, and thus reigned as the first king of + Northumbria as Northumbria. The Celtic name of the fortress was + Dinguardi, or Dinguvardy; and tradition has it that this was Sir + Lancelot’s castle of Joyeuse Garde, where he had often feasted the + Knights of the Round Table, and where he, at last, came home to die. The + fact that Bamburgh is the only pre-Conquest castle in Northumberland + disposes of the claim of Alnwick. +</p> +<p> + “My fair lords,” said sir Launcelot, “wit ye well, my careful body will + into the earth; I have warning more than I will now say; therefore, I + pray you, give me my rights.” So when he was houseled and eneled, and + had all that a Christian man ought to have, he prayed the bishop that + his fellows might bear his body unto Joyous Gard. +</p> +<p> + Some men say Anwick, and some men say to Bamborow; “how-beit,” said sir + Launcelot, “me repenteth sore; but I made mine avow aforetime, that in + Joyous Gard I would be buried; and because of breaking of mine vow, I + pray you all lead me thither.” Then was there weeping and wringing of + hands among all his fellows. +</p> +<p> + And so, within fifteen days, they came to Joyous Gard, and there they + laid his corpse in the body of the quire, and read many psalters and + prayers over him and about him.... And right thus, as they were at their + service, there came sir Ector de Maris, that had sought seven years all + England, Scotland and Wales, seeking his brother sir Launcelot.... Then + went sir Bors unto sir Ector, and told him how there lay his brother sir + Launcelot dead. +</p> +<p> + And then sir Ector threw his shield, his sword, and his helm from him; + and when he beheld sir Launcelot’s visage, he fell down in a swoon; and + when he awoke, it were hard for any tongue to tell the doleful + complaints that he made for his brother. “Ah! sir Launcelot,” said he, + “thou wert head of all Christian knights!” “And now, I dare say,” said + sir Bors, “that sir Launcelot, there thou liest, thou wert never matched + of none earthly knight’s hands; and thou wert the courtliest knight that + ever bare a shield; and thou wert the truest friend to thy lover that + ever bestrod horse; and thou wert the truest lover of a sinful man that + ever loved woman; and thou wert the kindest man that ever stroke with + sword; and thou wert the goodliest person that ever came among press of + knights; and thou wert the meekest man, and the gentlest, that ever eat + in hall among ladies; and thou wert the sternest knight to thy mortal + foe, that ever put spear in the rest.” +</p> +<p> + Then there was weeping and dolor out of measure. +</p> +<pre> + —<i>Malory’s Morte d’Arthur</i>. +</pre> +<p> + Ethelfrith, who succeeded Ethelric, gave the fort to his second wife, + Bebba, after whom it was named Bebbanburgh, which soon became Bamburgh. +</p> +<p> + In the days of King Edwin, who succeeded Ethelfrith, Bamburgh was the + centre of a kingdom which extended from the Humber to the Forth, and as + Northumbria was at that time the most important division of England, the + royal city of Bernicia was practically the capital of the country. The + reign of King Oswald, though shorter than that of Edwin, was equally + noteworthy from the fact that in his days the gentle Aidan settled in + Northumbria, and king and monk worked together for the good of their + people, and Bamburgh became not only the seat of temporal power but the + safeguard and bulwark of the spiritual movement centred on the little + isle of Lindisfarne. On the accession of Edwin, Oswald, son of + Ethelfrith, had fled from Bernicia and taken refuge with the monks of + Iona, living with them till the time came for him to rule Northumbria in + his turn. As soon as possible after the inevitable fighting for his + political existence was over, he sent to Iona for a teacher to come and + instruct his people in the truths he had learned; and a monk named + Corman was sent. He, however, was unable to make any impression on the + wild and warlike Saxons of the northern kingdom, and he soon returned to + Iona with the report that it was useless to try to teach such obstinate + and barbarous people. One of the brethren, listening to his account, + ventured to ask him if he were sure that all the fault lay with the + people. “Did you remember,” said he, “that we are commanded to give them + the milk first? Did you not rather try them with the strong meat?” With + one accord the brethren declared that he who had spoken such wise words + was the man best fitted for the task, and the gentle Aidan was sent to + Oswald’s help. In such a fashion came the Gospel to Northumbria, and + Aidan became the first of the long roll of saints whose deeds and lives + had such incalculable influence on Northumbrian history. From Aidan’s + arrival in 635 until the death of Oswald the relations between the king + and the monk who had settled on Medcaud or Medcaut, soon to be known as + Lindisfarne, and later as Holy Island, were those of friend to friend + and fellow-worker, rather than those of king and subject. +</p> +<p> + After the death of Oswald, his conqueror Penda, the fierce King of the + Mercians, harried Northumbria, and appearing before the walls of + Bamburgh prepared to burn it down. Piles of logs and brushwood were laid + against the city and the fire was applied. Aidan, in his little cell on + Farne Island, to which he had retired, saw the clouds of flame and smoke + rolling over the home of his beloved patron. Raising his hands to + Heaven, he exclaimed, “See, Lord, what ill Penda is doing!” Scarcely had + he uttered the words, when the wind changed, and drove the flames away + from Bamburgh, blowing them against Penda’s host, who thereupon ceased + all further attempts against the city. +</p> +<p> + Not long after this, Aidan was at Bamburgh, when he was seized with + sudden illness, and died with his head resting against one of the wooden + stays of the little church. Penda came again the next year, and this + time both village and church were burnt, all except, says tradition, the + beam of wood against which Aidan had rested in his last moments. +</p> +<p> + When the Danish ships appeared off our shores, in the two centuries + following, Bamburgh was attacked and plundered several times. In the + days of William Rufus, as we have seen, Robert de Mowbray, Earl of + Northumberland, rebelled against the Red King, in company with his + uncle the Bishop of Coutances, Robert of Normandy, and William of St. + Carileph, Bishop of Durham. Rufus marched into Northumberland, but the + quarrel was adjusted for the time; though private strife between the two + Bishops led to Mowbray’s driving the monks of Durham from the Priory at + Tynemouth and replacing them by monks from St. Albans. +</p> +<p> + Later, however, Mowbray disobeyed a summons from the Red King, who once + more marched into Northumberland. He reached Bamburgh, and invested it, + but failed to make any impression on that impregnable stronghold, within + whose walls were Mowbray and his young wife, the Countess Matilda, and + his nephew, who was Sheriff of Northumberland. Rufus, finding all + attempts to carry the fortress useless, began to build a wooden fort, + called a <i>Malvoisin</i>, or “Bad neighbour”; and so anxious was he to have + it speedily erected that he made knights and nobles as well as his + men-at-arms take part in the work. +</p> +<p> + Mowbray, from the battlements, called out to many of these by name, + openly taunting those who had secretly promised to join him, or had + expressed themselves as in sympathy with his disobedience. His words + gave great amusement to Rufus and the nobles who were truly loyal, and + much mortification and vexation to those whom he so ruthlessly exposed. + Rufus left the “Bad neighbour” to continue the siege and went southward. +</p> +<p> + Mowbray, led to believe that Newcastle would receive him, and take his + part, stole away from Bamburgh by sea, and reached Tynemouth. On + proceeding to Newcastle, however, he found he had been mistaken, and + hurriedly fled hack to Tynemouth, pursued by his enemies. He held out + against them for a day or two, but was then captured and taken to + Durham. Meanwhile the high-spirited Countess held Bamburgh against all + assailants; but Mowbray’s capture gave Rufus an advantage he was not + slow to use. Returning to the North, he ordered Mowbray to be brought + before the walls of Bamburgh, and threatened to put his eyes out if the + Countess did not immediately surrender. Needless to say, she preferred + to give up the castle, and Mowbray’s reign as Earl of Northumberland was + over. +</p> +<p> + Thereafter Bamburgh was visited by various sovereigns in turn, when + their affairs brought them to the northerly parts of their kingdom. When + Balliol, tired of long years of conflict, surrendered most of his rights + to Edward III., it was at Bamburgh that the convention was concluded. In + this reign the castle was greatly strengthened. +</p> +<p> + In the Wars of the Roses, Bamburgh was held for the queen by the + Lancastrian nobles of the north country—Percy and Ros—with the Earl of + Pembroke and Duke of Somerset; but was obliged on Christmas Eve, 1462, + to capitulate to a superior force. The next year the Scots and the + queen’s French allies surprised it, and re-captured it for Henry VI. and + his courageous queen; but Warwick, “the King-maker,” came upon the + scene, and after a stout resistance the garrison surrendered. +</p> +<p> + When the Union of the Crowns took place in 1603, Bamburgh was no longer + necessary as a defence against the Scots, and its defences were + neglected. The Forsters, into whose hands it passed in the days of James + I., were a spendthrift family, and gradually wasted their rich estate, + until in 1704 it had to be sold, and was bought by Lord Crewe. He was + Bishop of Durham at the time, having been promoted to that position by + Charles II., who liked his handsome figure and pleasing manners. When at + the age of fifty-eight, he wished to marry Dorothea Forster, daughter of + Sir William Forster, of Bamburgh, the lady, who was many years younger, + refused him at first; but some years later he renewed his suit, and this + time was accepted. When the Forster estates were sold and their debts + paid, there was scarcely anything left for the heirs—Lady Crewe and her + nephew, Thomas Forster, who afterwards became the General of the + ill-fated Jacobite rising in 1715, and whose escape after his capture + was contrived by his high-spirited sister, Dorothy Forster the second. +</p> +<p> + Lord Crewe, in his will, left a great part of his fortune to found the + Bamburgh Trust, for which his name will ever be remembered. The most + notable of the trustees, Archdeacon Sharp, administered the moneys in so + wise and beneficent a manner that to him most of the credit is due for + the real usefulness of the Crewe charities. These include a surgery and + dispensary; schools; the relief of persons in distress; the clothing and + educating of a certain number of girls; the maintenance of a lifeboat, + life-saving apparatus, and everything necessary for the relief of + ship-wrecked persons. A lifeboat, kept in the harbour at Holy Island, is + always ready to go out on a signal from Bamburgh Castle. +</p> +<p> + The castle was extensively restored and repaired by the late Lord + Armstrong; but, sad to say, since his death it has been stripped of many + of its treasures. The church, dedicated to St. Aidan, stands at the west + end of the village; but there is no vestige remaining of the one built + in Saxon times, the present building having been erected when Henry II. + was king. In the churchyard is the grave of Grace Darling, and many + hundreds come to look on the last resting place of the gentle girl who + was yet so heroic, when her compassionate heart nerved her girlish frame + to the gallant effort on behalf of her fellow-creatures in dire peril, + when she +</p> +<pre> + “.... rode the waves none else durst ride, + None save her sire.” +</pre> +<p> + The beautiful monument over her grave is by Raymond Smith, and is an + exact duplicate of the original one, also by him, which was being + injured so much by the weather that it was removed to a position inside + the church. The duplicate was commissioned by Lord (then Sir William) + Armstrong. +</p> +<p> + The island on which yet stands the lighthouse which was Grace’s home is + the Longstone, almost the farthest seaward of the rocky group of the + Farnes, lying almost opposite Bamburgh. The Longstone is only about four + feet above high-water mark, so that in stormy weather the lighthouse is + fiercely assailed by the heavy seas, and the keepers are often driven + for refuge to the upper chambers. To the Longstone might with truth be + attributed the opening lines of Kipling’s poem, “The Coastwise + Lights”:— +</p> +<pre> + “Our brows are bound with spindrift, and the weed is on our knees, + Our loins are battered ’neath us by the swinging, smoking seas; + From reef, and rock, and skerry, over headland, ness, and voe, + The coastwise lights of England watch the ships of England go.” +</pre> +<p> + There are about twenty of these little islets to be seen at low tide, + and very curious are some of their names—The Megstone, The Crumstone, + The Navestone, The Harcars, The Wedums, The Noxes (Knokys), and The + Wawmses. The largest, Farne Island, is the nearest to the coast, and is + the one to which St. Aidan retired, and on which St. Cuthbert made + himself a cell, and where he lived for some years, leaving Lindisfarne + (Holy Island) very often for months together, to dwell alone on this + almost bare rock and devote himself to holy meditation and prayer. +</p> +<p> + To this island came King Ecgfrith of Northumbria with Archbishop + Trumwine and other representatives of the Synod to beg the hermit to + accept the Bishopric of Hexham; and it was on this island that St. + Cuthbert died, the monks who had gone to look after him signalling the + news of his death to his brethren at Lindisfarne by means of torches. + The island is rocky and precipitous, with deep chasms between the high + cliffs; and when a north wind blows, the columns of foam and spray, from + the waters dashing into the chasms and over the tops of the cliffs, may + be seen from the mainland rising high into the air. +</p> +<p> + Before the first lighthouse was built on Farne Island, in 1766, a coal + fire was kindled every night on the top of the tower-like building used + as a fort. This method of warning passing vessels had been used + continuously since the days of Charles II. In great contrast to this is + the modern lighthouse, with its acetylene gas lights and its automatic + flash apparatus. +</p> +<p> + Close to Stapel Island are the three high basaltic pillars, of rock + called the Pinnacles. On all these islands sea-birds breed, but + especially on the Pinnacles, the Big and Little Harcar, and the islet + called the Brownsman. +</p> +<p> + Thousands and thousands of them perch and chatter on the rocks and fly + screaming in the air, amongst them being guillemots, kittiwakes, gulls, + terns, cormorants, puffins, and eider-ducks, for which latter St. + Cuthbert is said to have had great affection; certainly they are the + gentlest of these wild sea-fowl. +</p> +<p> + Bidding farewell to the rocky Farnes, we sail past Budle Bay, into which + runs the Warenburn and the Elwick burn, and underneath whose sandy flats + is the buried town of Warnmouth, once a busy seaport, to which Henry + III. granted a charter. Approaching Lindisfarne, “Our isle of Saints, + low-lying on the blue breast of the curling waters, is hushed and silent + in the lightly-purple mists of morning, like the wide aisles of a great + cathedral at daybreak, before the feet and tongues of sightseers disturb + the solemn stillness. The tideway is covered with water, and the + footprints of the pilgrims who came yesterday to the shrine of St. + Cuthbert have passed into oblivion like footmarks on the sands of time.” + (<i>Galloway Kyle</i>.) The modern pilgrim to Holy Island generally takes + train to Beal station, and from there walks to the seashore, and crosses + the long stretch of sand between Holy Island and the mainland. The + governing factor in the possibility or otherwise of making the journey + is the state of the tide, for these sands are entirely covered by the + sea twice a day, so that Holy Island can only be said to be an island at + high tide. +</p> +<pre> + “For with the flow and ebb, its style + Varies from continent to isle; + Dry-shod, o’er sands, twice every day + The pilgrims to the shrine find way; + Twice every day the waves efface + Of staves and sandall’d feet the trace.” +</pre> +<p> + There are dangerous quicksands on the way, too, and a row of stakes + points out the proper course to be taken. +</p> +<p> + We have already seen that St. Aidan settled on Lindisfarne and have + treated of him in connection with Bamburgh. After his death another monk + of Iona, Finan, succeeded him and carried on his work; and after Finan + came Colman, who resigned after the Synod of Whitby had decided to keep + Easter according to southern instead of northern usage. St. Cuthbert was + Prior of Lindisfarne at this time. Later, the seat of the bishopric was + removed from Lindisfarne to York, when it was held by that restless and + able prelate, Wilfrid, for a time. Then the bishopric was divided and a + see of Hexham formed, as well as that of Lindisfarne, which included + Carlisle, out of the northern portion of the diocese of York. +</p> +<p> + St. Cuthbert was bishop of Lindisfarne for two years, having exchanged + sees with bishop Eata, who went to Hexham. The stone coffin in which St. + Cuthbert’s body was pieced, after his death on Farne Island, was buried + on the right side of the altar in the Abbey of Lindisfarne, which by + this time had arisen on the little island. A later bishop, Edfrid, + executed a wonderful copy of the Gospels, which was illuminated by his + successor, Ethelwald. Another bishop enclosed it in a cover of gold and + silver, adorning it with jewels; and, later, a priest of Lindisfarne, + Aldred, wrote between the lines a translation into the vernacular, and + added marginal notes. This precious manuscript, a wonderful example of + the beautiful work done in monastic houses in the north so many + centuries ago, is now in the British Museum, where it is known as the + “Durham Manuscript.” +</p> +<p> + When the pirate keels of the Danes appeared off our coasts about the end + of the eighth century, Lindisfarne Abbey was one of the first points of + attack; and in 793 it was plundered of most of its wealth, and many of + the monks were slain. For nearly a century afterwards it was left in + peace, but in 875 the Danish ships appeared again approaching from the + south, where they had just sacked Tynemouth Priory. The bishop, + Eardulph, last of the Lindisfarne prelates, and the brethren hastily + collected their most treasured possessions, and with the body of St. + Cuthbert, the bones of St. Aidan, and other precious relics, they fled + from their island home, and journeyed north, west, and south for many + years before they found a resting place at Chester-le-Street near + Durham. For seven years they carried with them the body of St. Cuthbert; + and it is said that the final choice of a resting place for the body of + their beloved saint was indicated to them by supernatural means as they + approached Durham. +</p> +<p> + In 1069 William the Conqueror marched northward to visit with sternest + punishment the hardy north-men, who were so long in submitting to his + authority; and the monks of Durham fled before the advance of the + relentless Norman, carrying with them, as before, the body of St. + Cuthbert. They reached Lindisfarne in safety to find the Abbey in the + ruinous state in which it had been left by the Danes two centuries + earlier. Thus, once again, the body of St. Cuthbert rested on the little + island where so many years of his life had been spent. +</p> +<p> + In 1070 the brethren returned to Durham and in 1093 the building was + begun, almost simultaneously, of the present glorious Cathedral of + Durham and a new Priory and Church on Lindisfarne, and a strong + resemblance may be traced between the two buildings The Abbey was + deserted on the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII., and + gradually fell into ruins. +</p> +<p> + The Castle, which stands on a lofty whinstone rock at the south-east + corner of the island, is a conspicuous object for many miles, whether + viewed by land or sea. It is supposed to have been built in the reign of + Henry VIII., at a time when defences were commanded to be made to all + harbours. If the Castle has had any appreciable share of romantic + incidents in its history, the records thereof seem to be unknown; but + one which has come down to us is the account of its daring capture by an + ardent North-country Jacobite, Lancelot Errington, in 1715. The + garrison consisted of seven men, five of whom were absent. Errington, + who was master of a small vessel lying in the harbour, discovered this, + and immediately made his way to the Castle accompanied by his nephew, + and overpowered the two men who were left in charge, turning them out of + the Castle. He then signalled to the mainland for reinforcements, but + none were forthcoming. A company of King’s men came instead and + re-occupied the place, Errington and his nephew escaping, to wander + about in the neighbourhood for several days, hiding from pursuit, before + they got clear away. The Castle was for many years the home of the + coastguardsmen, who must have found it a most advantageous position for + their purpose, as they had an uninterrupted view of miles of coast line. +</p> +<p> + Northward from Holy Island, but on the mainland, lies Goswick, from + whose red sandstone quarries came the material for building the Abbey of + Lindisfarne. Further north we come in sight of the coal pits and smoke + of Scremerston, while beyond it, Spittal and Tweedmouth bring us right + up to Berwick-on-Tweed itself, that grey old Border town which has seen + so many turns of fortune, and been harried again and again, only to draw + breath after each wild and cruel interlude, and go calmly on its quiet + way until it was once more called upon to fight for its very existence. +</p> +<p> + Though definitely forming part of English soil since 1482, it is not + included in any English county, but, with about eight square miles + around it, forms a county by itself. Hence the addition, to any Royal + proclamation, of the well-known words “And in our Town of + Berwick-upon-Tweed.” +</p> +<p> + Sir Walter Scott’s description of the Northumbrian coast, in his poem of + Marmion may well be recalled here. It will be remembered that the + Abbess of Whitby, with some of her nuns, was voyaging to Holy Island, + and we take up the description when +</p> +<pre> + “.... the vessel skirts the strand + Of mountainous Northumberland; + Towns, towers, and halls successive rise, + And catch the nuns’ delighted eyes. + Monkwearmouth soon behind them lay, + And Tynemouth’s Priory and bay. They + marked, amid her trees, the hall Of lofty Seaton Delaval; + They saw the Blyth and Wansbeck floods + Rush to the sea through sounding woods; + They passed the tower of Widdrington, + Mother of many a valiant son; + At Coquet-isle their beads they tell + To the good saint who owned the cell. + Then did the Alne attention claim, + And Warkworth, proud of Percy’s name; + And next they crossed themselves, to hear + The whitening breakers sound so near, + Where, boiling through the rocks, they roar + On Dunstanborough’s caverned shore. + Thy tower, proud Bamburgh, marked they there, + King Ida’s castle, huge and square, + From its tall rock look grimly down + And on the swelling ocean frown. + Then from the coast they bore away + And reached the Holy Island’s bay. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + As to the port the galley flew, + Higher and higher rose to view + The castle with its battled walls, + The ancient monastery’s halls, + A solemn, huge, and dark-red pile + Placed on the margin of the isle. + + In Saxon strength that abbey frowned, + With massive arches, broad and round. +</pre> + +<hr/> + +<pre> + On the deep walls, the heathen Dane + Had poured his impious rage in vain; + And needful was such strength to these, + Exposed to the tempestuous seas, + Scourged by the winds’ eternal sway, + Open to rovers fierce as they. + Which could twelve hundred years withstand + Winds, waves, and northern pirates’ hand.” +</pre> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus03"></a> +<img src="images/043.jpg" width="300" height="200" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap02"></a>CHAPTER II.<br/>NORTH AND SOUTH TYNE.</h2> + +<pre> + “On Kielder-side the wind blaws wide; + There sounds nae hunting horn + That rings sae sweet as the winds that beat + Round banks where Tyne is born.” + —<i>A.C. Swinburne</i>. +</pre> +<p> + Between Peel Fell and Mid Fell, almost the farthest western heights of + the Cheviot Hills, a little mountain stream takes its rise, and flows to + the south and east. This little burn is the North Tyne, the beginnings + of that stream which, deep, dark, and swift at its mouth, bears the + mighty battleships there built to carry the war-flags of the nations + round the world. In the wild and lovely district where the North Tyne + takes its rise, is Kielder Castle, a shooting box belonging to the Duke + of Northumberland. +</p> +<p> + This neighbourhood is the scene of two romantic ballads; that of the + “Cowt (colt) of Kielder” and the Ettrick Shepherd’s ballad of “Sir David + Graeme.” The deadly enemy of the young “Cowt,” so called from his great + strength, is Lord Soulis of Hermitage Castle, on the Scottish side of + the border. The Cowt, with his followers, was enticed into the Castle, + where Lord Soulis purposed his death; but the gigantic youth burst + through the circle of his foes and escaped. The evil Brownie of the + moorland, however, gave to Lord Soulis the secret which safeguarded the + young Cowt. His coat of mail was sword-proof by a spell of enchantment, + and he wore in his helmet rowan and holly leaves; but these would all be + of no avail against the power of running water. The Cowt was pursued + until, in crossing a burn, he stumbled and lost his helmet, and ere he + recovered, his enemies were upon him, and they held him under water + until he was drowned. +</p> +<p> + Not far from the mouth of the Bell Burn, which here runs into the Tyne, + a circle of stones outside an ancient burial ground is known as the + Cowt’s Grave. +</p> +<pre> + “This is the bonny brae, the green, + Yet sacred to the brave, + Where still, of ancient size, is seen + Gigantic Kieldar’s grave. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + Where weeps the birch with branches green + Without the holy ground, + Between two old grey stones is seen + The warrior’s ridgey mound. + + And the hunters bold of Kieldar’s train, + Within yon castle’s wall, + In a deadly sleep must aye remain + Till the ruined towers down fall.” +</pre> +<p> + In the ballad of “Sir David Graeme,” by James Hogg, the lady of the + story watched out of her window in vain for the coming of her “noble + Graeme,” who had vowed that the hate of her father and brothers would + not keep him from coming to carry off his fair lady on St. Lambert’s + night. +</p> +<pre> + “The sun had drunk frae Kieldar Fell + His beverage o’ the morning dew; + The deer had crouched her in the dell, + The heather oped its bells o’ blue. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + The lady to her window hied, + And it opened o’er the banks o’ Tyne; + An’ “O! alack,” she said, and sighed, + “Sure ilka breast is blythe but mine?” +</pre> +<p> + Her forebodings prove only too true, for her lover’s faithful hound + seeks her out, and with mournful looks induces her to follow him over + Deadwater Fell, and guides her to a lonely spot where the body of the + gallant Graeme, slain by her brothers, is lying. +</p> +<p> + In the neighbourhood of these desolate Fells are to be found many traces + of ancient British Camps. +</p> +<p> + The little mountain streams which here help to swell the stream of the + North Tyne are, on the south side, the Lewis and Whickhope Burns, and on + the north, the Plashetts and Hawkhope Burns. On both sides of the Tyne, + near the Whickhope and the Hawkhope Burns are many remains of an ancient + pre-historic forest, the largest being near the Whickhope Burn where the + abnormally thick stems of trees may be seen. +</p> +<p> + The little village of Falstone is set amongst trees, in the midst of + pleasant meadows, a welcome relief from the bare fells and moorlands + around it; yet this wild scenery has a distinct fascination of its own, + and adds not a little to the charm of the varied landscape within the + bounds of our northern county. At Falstone a fragment of an ancient + cross was discovered, with an inscription carved upon it—in Roman + letters on one side and in the Runes of the Anglo-Saxons on the other. + The inscription states that a certain Eamer set up the cross in memory + of his uncle Hroethbert, and asks for prayers for his soul. The + existence of a similarly inscribed cross is not known, so that the + Society of Antiquaries, in whose keeping this cross rests, has in it + probably a unique treasure. +</p> +<p> + The Tarset Burn, upon which stands the village of Thorneyburn, runs into + the Tyne not far from Falstone, and reminds us of the old Border-riding + days, when the rallying-cry of the men of the district in many a feud + with neighbouring clans was—“Tarset and Tarret Burn, Hard and + heather-bred, yet-yet-yet.” Near the spot where the Tarset Burn joins the + Tyne is a grassy hill on which once stood Tarset Castle, a stronghold of + that Red Comyn whom Bruce slew in the little chapel at Dumfries, and of + whose death Bruce’s friend Kirkpatrick said he would “mak’ siccar”! +</p> +<p> + The village of Charlton, on the north bank of the Tyne, and the mansion + of Hesleyside on the other, carry the mind back to the old reiving + plundering days, for it was at Hesleyside that the incident of the + ancient spur of the Charlton’s took place, doubtless many a time and + oft, when the good lady of Hesleyside served up the spur at dinner as a + gentle hint that the larder was empty, and it behoved her lord to mount + and away to replenish the same, preferably with stock from the Scottish + side of the border, or if not, a neighbour’s cattle would serve equally + well. +</p> +<p> + The Charltons, Robsons (possibly the lineal descendants of “Hroethbert” + of the ancient cross) and Armstrongs, held almost undisputed sway over + this region, and the district teems with reminders of their prowess and + traditions of their exploits. The men of Tynedale (the North Tyne) and + Redesdale were known as the fiercest and most lawless in all that wild + district. Redesdale is a district of monotonous, almost dreary, + moorlands, and wild, bare fells, where sheep graze on what scanty + provender the bleak hills afford, finding better fare, however, in the + valleys near the river banks, where the pasture is fresh and green. +</p> +<p> + Bellingham is to-day the most considerable village of the neighbourhood; + it stands conveniently at the foot of the hills where the little Belling + Burn, or Hareshaw Burn, joins the main stream. In Hareshaw woods is the + beautiful Hareshaw Linn, where the stream falls down through a break in + the sandstone cliffs, and forms a picturesque waterfall, fringed with + ferns and trees and cool mosses. It well repays one for the walk of a + mile or so through tangled underwoods by the side of the burn. + Bellingham gives its mime to the family of de Bellingham, whose chief + seat, however, is now in Ireland and no longer in the little + north-country town. +</p> +<p> + The massive church here, with its roof of stone, bears eloquent + testimony to the need for fireproof buildings in a village so near to + Scotland in the days of Border warfare. Outside the churchyard wall is + the well of St. Cuthbert, or “Cuddy’s Well,” which was greatly venerated + in early days, and many stories are told of the miraculous power of its + waters. Inside the churchyard a grave is pointed out as the burial place + of the robber whose tragic end was told by James Hogg in his gruesome + story of “The Long Pack.” +</p> +<p> + The village itself is plain and bare, as might be expected from a + settlement which would probably find that unattractiveness in either + wealth or appearance was a tolerable safeguard. +</p> +<p> + Below Bellingham the North Tyne is joined by its longest and most noted + tributary, the Rede Water, which also rises in the Cheviots. Rising in + the hills north of Carter Fell, it flows south-east, through a wild + region, passing, while still high up amongst the hills, the little + village of Byrness, and the new reservoir at Catcleugh, where a supply + of pure water is stored for the use of the dwellers in distant + Newcastle. On its way to the Tyne, it passes many an old pele-tower, and + the Roman stations of Bremenium (Rochester) and Habitancum, near + Woodburn. The ancient Roman road of Watling Street crosses the Rede at + Woodburn, leading from Habitancum to Bremenium. +</p> +<p> + Many mountain streams, clear and sparkling, or peaty and brown, join the + Rede Water on its way, amongst others the little Otter Burn, by whose + banks took place that stirring episode in the constant quarrels between + the Douglases and Percies known as “Chevy Chase,” from which the fierce + battle-cries ring down the five centuries that have passed since that + time, with sounds that echo still. +</p> +<p> + The pretty village of Redesmouth (or Reedsmouth) stands where the Rede + Water enters the North Tyne, and a few miles further on the rapid little + Houxty Burn pours its peaty waters into the main stream. +</p> +<p> + On the right bank of the Tyne stands Wark, conveniently placed at one of + the most important fords of the Tyne in former days. Like other towns + and villages so placed on different streams throughout the country, the + advantages of its situation have evidently been appreciated by the + successive inhabitants of the land, for there are traces of its + occupation by Celt, Roman, and Saxon; and, later, the town was the most + considerable in Upper Tynedale. During the time that this part of + England was ceded to the Scottish Kings, David and Alexander, it was at + Wark that the Scottish law courts for Tynedale held their sittings. The + mound called the Mote Hill, near the river, marks the spot where, in all + probability, the ancient Celtic inhabitants met together to administer + the rude justice of prehistoric times, and to make the laws of their + little settlement, which grew to much greater proportions in later + years. In fact, it is supposed that the Kirkfield marks the site of a + church which stood in the midst of the once extensive town. +</p> +<p> + A little way up the Wark Burn, above the bridge, there may be seen some + upright stems of Sigillaria in the exposed face of the cliffs. On the + opposite side of the river from Wark is Chipchase Castle, one of the + finest mansions in Northumberland, standing in the midst of the + beautifully wooded and picturesque scenery which, from this point + onwards is characteristic of the North Tyne. Of the former village of + Chipchase scarcely a trace remains, though its name, if nothing else, + shows that here has been a village or small town, important enough to + have its well-known, market; for “Chip,” like the various “Chippings” + throughout England is derived from the Anglo-Saxon <i>ciepan</i>—to buy and + sell, to traffic. In the reign of Henry II., Chipchase was the property + of the Umfravilles of Prudhoe; but later it passed into the hands of the + well-known Northumbrian family of Heron. +</p> +<p> + Not far from Chipchase Castle are the famous Gunnerton Crags, formed by + an out-crop of the Great Whin Sill. These lofty cliffs have been the + site of a considerable settlement of the ancient British tribes who + dwelt in the district in such numbers, as is evident from the scores of + camps, which may be traced all over this part of Northumberland. The + naturally strong position on the Gunnerton Crags, would be certain to + commend itself to a people, the first requisite of whose dwelling places + was strength and consequent safety. +</p> +<p> + At Barrasford the making of the railway cutting led to the opening up of + a large barrow, or burial place, of the ancient Britons; and a single + “menhir,” supposed to be the solitary survivor of a large group of these + huge stones, stood near the village school some years ago. +</p> +<p> + Passing Chollerton and Humshaugh, embowered amongst spreading trees, we + arrive at Chollerford, the prettiest village of North Tyne, lying near + the river where it was crossed by the Roman Wall. From the bridge which + spans the Tyne at Chollerford one of the finest views of the river, both + up and down the stream, is to be seen; and to watch the swift brown + stream, after a flood or a freshet, foaming through the arches is an + exhilarating sight. The bridge itself is a modern one, for we know that + all the bridges on the Tyne, except that of Corbridge, were swept away + by the great flood of 1771. +</p> +<p> + In 1394, that prince of bridge-builders, Bishop Walter de Skirlaw of + Durham, granted thirteen days’ indulgence to all who should assist in + rebuilding the bridge at Chollerford; so that already there was one here + which had evidently fallen into disrepair. Yet, in the ballad of “Jock + o’ the Side,” the rescuers, with Jock in their midst, reach Chollerford, + and, after some anxious questioning of an old man as to whether the + “water will ride,” are compelled to swim the Tyne in flood, which their + pursuers, coming up, will not attempt to do. Now Bishop Skirlaw’s + bridges did not usually disappear; those of Yarm, Shincliffe, and + Auckland have stood until to-day, with occasional repairs. Are we then + reluctantly to question the truth of “Jock o’ the Side”? Surely, if the + choice remain of the accuracy of the ballad or the fact of the bridge, + it is the duty of all leal North-country people to swear by the ballad. + Perhaps the good Bishop did not personally oversee the rebuilding of + Chollerford Bridge: more probably the Wear and Tees do not come down + with the angry impetuosity of the Tyne in flood! +</p> +<p> + The remains of the great Roman camp of Cilurnum (The Chesters) may be + seen here within Mrs. Clayton’s park. This was the largest military + station in Northumberland, Corstopitum, which is very much larger, being + more of a civil settlement. At some little distance below the present + bridge some of the piers of the old Roman bridge are still to be seen + when the river is low. +</p> +<p> + Eastward from Chollerford is the little church of St. Oswald, standing + where the battle of Heavenfield took place. When Penda of Mercia, and + the British Prince Cadwallon, were warring against Northumbria, the + greatest Northumbrian King, Edwin, was defeated and slain by them; and + on their return to the attack, Ethelfrith’s eldest son, called back from + exile to take the vacant throne, and rule in his father’s seat of + Bamburgh, also fell before their fierce onslaught. His brother Oswald + now took command of the Bernicians and prepared to lead them against the + foe. Oswald posted his men in a strong position on the north side of the + great Wall; and, setting up a huge cross of wood, called upon all his + followers to bow before the God of whom he had learnt during his exile + in Iona, and to pray to Him for victory. His army obeyed, and, in the + battle which followed, Oswald’s forces were completely victorious. The + Mercians, and their allies, the western Britons, were routed, and driven + out of Bernicia, and Cadwallon was pursued as far as the Denise Burn, + and there slain. The Denise Burn is supposed to have been the Rowley + Burn, which flows into the Devil’s Water, on whose banks stands Dilsten + Castle. Some time later, on the spot where Oswald’s Cross had stood, a + church was erected and dedicated to the royal Saint. It was served from + Hexham Abbey. +</p> +<p> + After passing Wall, which, however, is not quite so near the Roman Wall + as Chollerford is, we come to the pretty village of Warden, nestling + beneath the woods of Warden Hill; and here, just above Hexham, the North + Tyne unites with its sister river in the rich meadow lands which lie + near the old town. +</p> +<p> + The South Tyne has journeyed from Cross Fell, where it takes its rise, + northward through a corner of Cumberland, past Garrygill and Alston, + until it enters Northumberland where the Ayle Burn on the one hand, and + the Gilderdale Burn on the other, flow into it. Here is Whitley Castle, + where was a small Roman station called Alio, and Kirkhaugh Church, + charmingly placed on the bank of the river, which continues its course + northward past Slaggyford, Knaresdale, Eals, and Lambley, till it flows + past the fine Castle of Featherstone, and the ruins of Bellister, where + it turns eastward to Haltwhistle. +</p> +<p> + The little streams which enter the South Tyne up to this point flow + through wild and romantic glens, two of them owning the Celtic names of + <i>Glen Cune</i> and <i>Glen Dhu</i>. +</p> +<p> + The family of Featherstonehaugh is one of the oldest in the North; and + it was concerning the death of one of this family—Sir Albany + Featherstonehaugh, who was High Sheriff of Northumberland in the days of + Henry VIII.—that Mr. Surtees, the antiquary, wrote the well-known + ballad, which, when Surtees gave it him, deceived even Sir Walter Scott + into thinking it genuinely ancient. The first verse of the ballad shows + with what a verve and swing the lines go. +</p> +<pre> + “Hoot awa’, lads, hoot awa’ + Ha’ ye heard how the Ridleys, an’ Thirlwalls, an’ a’ + Ha’ set upon Albany Featherstonehaugh; + And taken his life at the Deadmanshaw? + There was Willimoteswick, + And Hard-riding Dick, + An’ Hughie o’ Hawdon, an’ Will o’ the Wa’ + I canno’ tell a’, I canno’ tell a’ + And mony a mair that the de’il may knaw.” +</pre> +<p> + The ruins of Bellister Castle stand against a sombre background of + woods, only a little way from Haltwhistle. The Castle once belonged to + the Blenkinsopp family, who also owned Blenkinsopp Castle, about two + miles away. The name was formerly spelt Blencan’s-hope—the hope being + valley or hollow—and the Castle, like many other places, has its + legendary “White Lady.” +</p> +<p> + Haltwhistle is a little straggling town lying on both sides of the main + road above the South Tyne, where it is joined by the Haltwhistle Burn. + By going up the valley of this pretty little stream we shall arrive near + the Roman station of AEsica, on the Wall. The town of Haltwhistle is + peaceful enough now, but it had a stirring existence in the days when + Ridleys, Armstrongs, and Charltons, to say nothing of the men of + Liddesdale and Teviotdale, had so strong a partiality for a neighbour’s + live-stock and so ready a hand with arrow and spear. In the old ballad + of “The Fray of Hautwessel,” we are told that +</p> +<pre> + “The limmer thieves o’ Liddesdale + Wadna leave a kye in the haill countrie, + But an<a href="#fn-3" name="fnref-3" id="fnref-3"><sup>[3]</sup></a> we gi’e them the cauld steel, + Our gear they’ll reive it a’ awaye, + Sae pert they stealis, I you saye. + O’ late they came to Hautwessel, + And thowt they there wad drive a fray. + But Alec Ridley shot too well.” +</pre> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-3" id="fn-3"></a> <a href="#fnref-3">[3]</a> +But an = unless. +</p> + +<p> + The most notable feature of present-day Haltwhistle is the finely placed + parish church, of which the chancel is the oldest part, having been + built in the twelfth century, so that it was already an old church when + Edward I. rested here for a night in 1306, on his way to Scotland for + the last time. When William the Lion of Scotland returned from his + captivity, after being taken prisoner at Alnwick in 1174, he founded the + monastery of Arbroath in thanksgiving for his freedom, and bestowed on + the monks the church of Haltwhistle. +</p> +<p> + All that remains of the old Castle, or “Haut-wysill Tower,” is the + building standing near the Castle Hill, which latter has been fortified + by earthworks. The Red Lion Hotel is a modernised pele-tower. The + general aspect of the place is singularly bare and bleak; but from + several points in the town, notably from the churchyard terrace, fine + views of the river valley may be obtained. +</p> +<p> + Henshaw (Hethinga’s-haugh) is a little village which King David of + Scotland, when he was Lord of Tynedale, gave to Richard Cumin and his + wife, who afterwards bestowed it on the Cathedral of Durham. It lies by + the side of the main road to Bardon Mill, which is the most convenient + station for travellers to alight at who wish to visit the Roman Wall and + the Roman city of Borcovicus, and the Northumberland lakes. Some little + distance up the hill from Bardon Mill station is a very pretty little + village whose name speaks eloquently of other invaders than the + Romans—the village of Thorngrafton (the “ton” or settlement on Thor’s + “graf” or dyke). Near at hand there are quarries from which the Romans + obtained much building material for the Wall; and in one of these old + quarries some workmen discovered a bronze vessel full of Roman coins, a + few of gold, but most of silver. This was known as the “Thorngrafton + Find,” and the interesting story of it is told by Dr. Bruce. +</p> +<p> + On the opposite side of the South Tyne from Henshaw, Willimoteswick + Castle stands on the level plains which are as characteristic of the + south bank of the river as are the steep slopes of the north bank. One + of the towers of this old Castle yet remains, and forms part of the more + modern farm-house which stands there. Willimoteswick was long in the + possession of the Ridleys, and it is generally accepted as having been + the birthplace of Bishop Ridley, though Unthank Hall, nearer to + Haltwhistle, and also a home of that family, disputes the honour. The + Bishop, who suffered death at the stake in the troublous times of Queen + Mary, in touching letters bids farewell to his Cousin at Willimoteswick + and his sister and her children at Unthank. +</p> +<p> + On the same side of the Tyne is Beltingham Church, with some wonderful + old trees in the churchyard, and Ridley Hall, which takes its name from + that family, although not now occupied by them. Here the Allen flows + into the South Tyne, and nowhere in the whole of the county is there a + more beautiful and romantic scene. By the side of the stream the Ridley + woods stretch for a mile or two, and the delightful mingling of graceful + ferns, overhanging trees, tall, rugged cliffs, flowering plants, and + sparkling waters forms a succession of lovely scenes throughout their + length, which, with the play of lights and shadows on the dimpled + surface of the stream, and frequent glimpses of grassy glades and cool + green alleys, make a walk through these enchanting woods an + unforgettable delight. +</p> +<p> + The Allen Burn, which gives its name to the beautiful district of + Allendale, is, like the Tyne, formed by the junction of two streams, the + East and West Allen, which rise near each other in hills on the border + of Northumberland and Durham, down the opposite slopes of which run the + little streams which feed the Wear. After flowing apart for some miles, + the East and West Allen unite not far from Staward railway station. Both + rivers flow, for the first part of their course, through a wild and + hilly region, rich, however, in minerals. On the East Allen are the + towns of Allenheads, formerly a busy centre of the lead-mining industry, + and Allendale Town, which lies about 1,400 feet above the sea-level. +</p> +<p> + As the lead-mining industry has decreased, Allendale has turned its + attention to other methods of living, and now caters for the army of + visitors who, each summer, climb its hills and wander through its woods + and lanes, and by its riverside, as did the Allendale maid whose memory + is perpetuated in the simple lines of the little poem, “Lucy Gray of + Allendale.” +</p> +<pre> + “Say, have you seen the blushing rose, + The blooming pink, or lily pale? + Fairer than any flower that blows + Was Lucy Gray of Allendale. + + Pensive at eve, down by the burn, + Where oft the maid they used to hail, + The shepherds now are heard to mourn + For Lucy Gray of Allendale.” +</pre> +<p> + Not far from the village of Catton, the name of “Rebel Hils” reminds us + that it was a vicar of Allendale, Mr. Patten, who joined young + Derwentwater in the rising of “The Fifteen,” and was appointed chaplain + of the little army. He met some half-dozen men of the neighbourhood at + this hill, when they set off together to join the rest of the forces at + Wooler. +</p> +<p> + On the West Allen is the lonely little hamlet of Ninebanks, with + Ninebanks Tower, concerning which little is known with certainty; and on + this stream also are two of the most strikingly beautiful places in + Northumberland—the delightfully picturesque village of Whitfield, and + the well-known Staward-le-Peel. +</p> +<p> + The ruins of the “Pele” tower stand on a high grassy platform, + safeguarded on three sides by tall cliffs and tumbled boulders; the + remains of a ditch may also be traced. From this point a splendid view + of the river valley, with its steep precipices, overhanging pinewoods + intermingled with trees of less sombre hue, and the bright course of the + river, may be obtained. At a point a little higher up the valley, where + the waters of the stream are held back by some huge rocks, they form a + deep pool, and then flow onwards through a narrow gorge called Cyper’s + Linn. Following the stream now until it has merged its waters in those + of the South Tyne, we turn eastward with the main stream and come to + Haydon Bridge. +</p> +<p> + This considerable village, gradually growing to the proportions of a + small town, lies on both sides of the river, which is here crossed by + the substantial bridge from which the village takes its name; for the + original village of Haydon stood at some distance up the hill on the + north side of the stream. On the hillside may still be seen the ruins of + the old church, in which services are occasionally held in the summer + time. The chancel, apparently dating from the twelfth century, and a + later little chapel to the south of it, are all that are left of the + building. Some very quaint inscriptions are to be seen in the + churchyard, and there are many sculptured grave-covers within the + church. Many of the stones used in the building have evidently been + brought from the great Wall, or probably from the Roman station of + Borcovicus, some six or seven miles to the north; and what a rush of + bewildering fancies crowds upon one’s mind on first discovering that the + font was originally a Roman altar! +</p> +<p> + The old church must have looked down on many a wild and curious scene in + the days when Scot and Englishman sought only opportunities to do each + other an injury, and the river-valleys were the natural passes through + which the tide of invasion, raid, and reprisal flowed. +</p> +<p> + In the beginning of the reign of Edward III., about 24,000 Scots, under + Douglas and Murray, crossed the Tyne near Haydon Bridge, and rode on to + plunder the richer lands that lay to the south and west. They reached + Stanhope and encamped there for a time. The young king set out + northwards with a great army to punish these marauders, and he was told + by his scouts that they had hastily left Stanhope on his approach. He + and his army pushed on quickly until they reached Bardon Mill; and, + crossing the Tyne, marched down to Haydon Bridge, expecting the Scots to + return by the way they went. It was miserable weather, and the feeding + of so many thousands of men was no little problem. They scoured all the + country round for provisions, getting the most from the Hexham Abbey + lands. Meanwhile it rained and rained, and no Scots appeared. After a + week of waiting, Edward, in great disappointment, went to Haltwhistle, + while his followers reconnoitered in all directions. Finally, he had the + mortification of learning that the Scots were still at Stanhope, but + before anything more could be done, they betook themselves back to + Scotland by a different route, and there was nothing left for Edward but + to give up the expedition in despair. +</p> +<p> + The bridge at Haydon appears to have been the only one for some distance + up and down the river in the sixteenth century, for we read of its being + barred and chained, on various occasions of marauding troubles in + Tynedale, to prevent the free-booters re-crossing the river. +</p> +<p> + In the days of Charles I. Colonel Lilburn marched to Haydon Bridge in + command of some troops of the Roundheads, on his way to join their + comrades at Hexham as a counter-move to the operations of the Royalist + troops in the North. Little more than thirty years after this, when the + days of Cromwell’s power had come and gone, and Charles II. ruled at + Whitehall, the old Grammar School was founded at Haydon Bridge in 1685 + by a clergyman, the Rev. John Shafto. Various changes have taken place + in the school from time to time, necessitated by the gradual changes and + educational needs of the passing years; and now, like the Grammar School + of Queen Elizabeth at Hexham, it has been entirely re-constituted to + meet modern requirements. John Martin, the famous painter of “The Plains + of Heaven,” received the beginnings of his education at this school. He + was born at East Land Ends farm in 1789. In after years the authorities + of Haydon Bridge Reading Room, wishing no doubt to afford a perfect + example to future generations of the truth of the proverb concerning a + prophet and his own country, refused some of Martin’s pictures, which + the gifted painter himself offered to them—an act which their + successors have doubtless regretted. +</p> +<p> + At a little distance along the Langley Road, which leads past the + school, a memorial cross is standing. It was erected in 1883 by the late + Mr. C.J. Bates, the historian of Northumberland, to the memory of the + last of the Derwentwater family, whose castle of Langley he purchased. + The inscription on the cross reads:—“To the memory of James and + Charles, Viscounts Langley, Earls of Derwentwater, beheaded on Tower + Hill, London, 24th February, 1716, and 8th December, 1746, for loyalty + to their lawful sovereign.” +</p> +<p> + A striking testimony, this, to the fact that freedom in England is a + reality, and not merely a name. In what other land would an inscription + such as this have been allowed to remain for more than twenty-four + hours? +</p> +<p> + A couple of miles or more down the South Tyne is Fourstones, so called + because of four stones, said to have been Roman altars, having been used + to mark its boundaries. A romantic use was made of one of these stones + in the early days of “The Fifteen.” Every evening, as dusk fell, a + little figure, clad in green, stole up to the ancient altar, which had + been slightly hollowed out, and, taking out a packet, laid another in + its place. The mysterious packets, placed there so secretly, were + letters from the Jacobites of the neighbourhood to each other; and the + little figure in green was a boy who acted as messenger for them. No + wonder that the people of the district gave this altar the name of the + “Fairy Stone.” +</p> +<p> + Between Haydon Bridge and Fourstones are both freestone and limestone + quarries, which latter have supplied many fossils to visitors of + geological tastes. Halfway between Fourstones and Hexham, the two + streams of North and South Tyne unite, and flow together down to the old + town of Hexham, with its quaintly irregular buildings clustering in + picturesque confusion round its ancient Abbey, which dominates the + landscape from whatever point we approach. +</p> +<p> + Warden Village, already mentioned, lies in the angle formed by the + meeting of the two streams, and has an ancient church which, however, + has been largely rebuilt. From High Warden, near at hand, a delightful + view may be obtained for a long distance up the valleys of North and + South Tyne. On the summit of this hill there are the remains of a + considerable British camp, showing that they had seized upon this point + of vantage, and though the ancient British name has not come down to us, + it is evident from the Saxon name of Warden (<i>weardian</i>) that Saxons as + well as Britons were fully alive to the merits of the situation, + “guarding” the valley at such a commanding point. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap03"></a>CHAPTER III.<br/>DOWN THE TYNE.</h2> + +<p> + The town of Hexham, standing on hilly ground overlooking the Tyne, + immediately below the point at which the North and South Tyne unite, and + spreading from thence down to the levels all round, is one of the most + ancient in the kingdom. To write of Hexham with any measure of fulness + would require much more space than can be given to it within the limits + of a small book; only a mere summary can be offered here. Britons, + Romans, and Saxons, in turn, have dwelt on and around the hill which, in + Saxon days, was to be crowned with Wilfrid’s beautiful Abbey, which, we + read, surpassed all others in England at that time for beauty and + excellence of design and workmanship; nor was there another to equal it + anywhere on this side of the Alps. +</p> +<p> + The name of Hexham is generally understood to be derived from the names + of two little streams, the Hextol and the Halgut, now the Cowgarth and + the Cockshaw Burns, which here flow into the Tyne; or, as Mr. Bates + suggests, it may have been the “ham” of “some forgotten Hagustald,” + which the name perpetuates. In any case its name was Hagustaldesham when + King Ecgfrith (or Egfrid) of Northumbria gave it to his queen, + Etheldreda, who wished to take the veil. Queen Etheldreda, however, + preferred to go to East Anglia, which was her home; she retired to a + convent at Ely, and bestowed the land at Hagustaldesham on Wilfrid, a + monk of Lindisfarne, clever, ambitious and hardworking, who had become + Bishop of York, which meant Bishop of all Northumbria. +</p> +<p> + Wilfrid had been to Rome, and seen the churches of that city and of the + lands through which he travelled; and, on his appointment to power, he + set himself to make the churches of his diocese worthy to compare with + those of older civilizations. He did much to the cathedral of York, and + built that of Ripon; but the Abbey of Hexham was his masterpiece. He + built a monastery and church, dedicating the latter to St. Andrew, for + it was in the church of St. Andrew at Rome that, kneeling, he felt + himself fired with enthusiasm for his work, in the same church from + which Augustine had set out on his journey to Britain some fifty years + before. The year 674 is generally accepted as the date on which this + noble Abbey was founded. +</p> +<p> + Wilfrid lived in great splendour at York, and ruled his immense diocese + with a firm hand; in fact, he was the first of that line of great + ecclesiastics who have moved with such proud, and oft-times turbulent, + progress through the pages of English history. King Ecgfrith’s second + wife, Ermenburga, was jealous of the great power and magnificence of the + Northumbrian prelate, and through her influence, Archbishop Theodore was + induced to divide the huge diocese of Northumbria into four + portions—York, Hexham, Ripon and Withern in Galloway. Wilfrid, + naturally indignant, found all his protests disregarded, and immediately + set out for Rome, to obtain a decree of restitution from the Pope. It + was given to him, but little cared the Northumbrians for that. Wilfrid + was imprisoned for nine months, and then banished from Northumbria. +</p> +<p> + He went southwards and dwelt in Sussex, where his genius for hard work + found scope in a mission to the Saxons of the south lands, and where he + built and founded more churches and monasteries. Readers of “Rewards + and Fairies” will have made acquaintance with Wilfrid in his Sussex + wanderings and hardships. On his recall to the North by King Aldfrith, + he returned to Hexham. On the death of Aldfrith, the new King, Edwulf, + banished Wilfrid once more, ordering him to leave the kingdom within six + days; but the friends of Aldfrith’s young son, whom Edwulf had + dispossessed, obtained the ascendancy, and Wilfrid was re-instated in + his Abbeys of Hexham and Ripon. +</p> +<p> + While on his way back from Rome, on his last visit, Wilfrid had a severe + illness, but was granted a vision in which he was told that he had four + years more to live, and that he must build a church to the honour of the + Blessed Virgin. The little church of St. Mary, which stood close to the + walls of the great Abbey of Hexham, was erected in fulfilment of this + command. +</p> +<p> + In the Abbey church itself, all that was known for centuries of the + original work of Wilfrid was the famous crypt, which is almost unique, + that of Ripon, also the work of Wilfrid, being the only one like it; but + recent excavations have brought much more of the ancient cathedral to + light, and laid bare, not only its original plan, but some of the walls, + and part of the very pavement trodden by the feet of Wilfrid and his + fellows so many centuries ago. The tomb of Wilfrid, however, is not at + Hexham, but at his other foundation of Ripon. +</p> +<p> + The ancient Abbey suffered much at the hands of the Danes, and in later + years from the ravages of the Scots, having been burnt several times, + notably in 1296, when 40,000 Scots ravaged the North of England, + plundering, burning, and laying waste wherever they went, exactly as the + Danes had done four hundred years before. Some of the stones of the old + Abbey yet bear traces of the fires by which the ancient building was so + often nearly destroyed, and in these frequent conflagrations all + records, charters, etc., of the Abbey, from which might have been + compiled a complete history, not only of the Abbey but of much of the + provincial and national history of the times, were lost. +</p> +<p> + The Abbey was restored and rebuilt again and again, but for varying + reasons was without a nave for some hundreds of years. Within the last + ten years, however, a complete restoration has been carried out, under + the loving, and, what is more to the point, the capable superintendence + of Canon Savage and his colleagues, in the spirit and manner, as nearly + as possible, of the beautiful portions already standing; and several + disfiguring so-called “restorations” of nineteenth century work, which + could only detract from the beauty and dignity of the noble building, + have been removed entirely. This work was completed in 1908, and all who + have the honour of our famous county at heart must rejoice that its + noblest church is at last more worthy of its own high rank and glorious + past. +</p> +<p> + Among the many deeply interesting objects to be seen in the Abbey is the + stone Sanctuary seat—the Frid Stool, or seat of peace—at which + fugitives, fleeing from their enemies, might find refuge. It is believed + that this was the “Cathedra” of St. Wilfrid himself. The arms and back + of the chair are ornamented with a twisted knot-work pattern. The right + of Sanctuary extended for a mile round the Abbey, the boundaries being + marked by crosses, one at each point of the compass at that distance. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus04"></a> +<a href="images/066.jpg"> +<img src="images/066.jpg" width="600" height="352" alt="Illustration: +Hexham Abbey from North West" /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>Hexham Abbey from North West</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + Other treasures of the Abbey are the beautiful Old Rood Screen, dating + from the end of the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century; + some wonderful old paintings, especially the portraits of the early + Bishops of Hexham, Alcmund, Wilfrid, Acca, Eata, Frithbert, Cuthbert, + and John, which date from the fifteenth century; the mediaeval carved + and painted pulpit, and the tomb of good King Alfwald of Northumbria. + Many of the stones used by Wilfrid’s builders were of Roman workmanship, + and seem to have come from the Roman city of Corstopitum, at Corbridge. + An inscription on one of these old stones in the crypt takes us back + some centuries before even Wilfrid’s time, for it commemorates the + Emperor Severus and his two sons, Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (Caracalla) + and Publius Septimius Geta, and has the name of the latter erased, as + was done on all similar inscriptions throughout the Empire, by order of + the inhuman Caracalla, after his murder of his brother. +</p> +<p> + A very interesting feature of the building is the stone stairway in the + South transept, by which the monks ascended to their dormitories above. +</p> +<p> + Quite near to the Abbey, at the other side of the Market Place, the + ancient Moot Hall claims attention. The modern visitor to the old town + walks beneath the gloomy archway, with its time-worn stones, which forms + the basement over which the Moot Hall stands. Another building, grim and + dark, near at hand, is the Old Manor House, in which the business + connected with the ancient Manor of Hexham was transacted. +</p> +<p> + An old foundation in the town was the Queen Elizabeth Grammar School, + which, after having fallen into desuetude for many years, has been + revived in a form appropriate to modern needs, and housed in a worthy + building, formally opened by Sir Francis Blake on November 2nd, 1910. + The site on which the new Grammar School of Queen Elizabeth stands is + one of the finest in the county, commanding, as it does, an + uninterrupted view of the river valley for some distance, and of the + rising ground beyond. +</p> +<p> + At the beginning of last century, Hexham was famed for its + glove-making: but that industry has forsaken the town for many years. + Now, Hexham is surrounded by acres of market-gardens, from which the + produce of Tynedale is carried far and wide. +</p> +<p> + The spacious stretch of level meadow-land below Hexham, rising gradually + up to the swelling ridges beyond, is said to have been the scene which + John Martin had in mind when he painted the “Plains of Heaven”; though + the level reaches above Newburn, unencumbered with buildings in John + Martin’s time, and then a scene of quiet pastoral beauty, also claim + that honour. +</p> +<p> + Flowing now between well ordered gardens, green meadows, and ferny + banks, brawling musically over shingly shallows, or crooning gently + between fringing woods, the Tyne rolls onward to Corbridge, receiving on + its way the Devil’s Water, a sparkling stream which flows through scenes + of enchanting beauty, whether between rugged cliffs and heather clad + hills as in its upper course, through the graceful overhanging trees and + cool green recesses of Dipton woods or between rich meadows and green + pasture-land where it loses itself in the bosom of the Tyne. +</p> +<p> + There is no more delightful experience than to wander through the woods + of Deepdene (Dipton) on a summer’s day, when it requires no stretch of + the imagination to believe oneself in an enchanted forest, or, on + hearing a crackle of twigs, or faint sounds of the outside world + filtering through the green solitudes, to turn round expecting to see a + maiden on a “milk-white steed,” or one of the Knights of the Round Table + come riding by, in bravery of glistening armour and gay surtout, and to + find oneself murmuring, “Now, Sir Gawain rode apace, and came unto a + right fair wood, and findeth the stream of a spring that ran with a + great rushing, and nigh thereunto was a way that was much haunted. He + abandoneth his high-way, and goeth all along the stream from the spring + that lasteth a long league plenary, until that he espieth a right fair + house and right fair chapel enclosed within a hedge of wood.” +</p> +<p> + On the green meadows of Hexham Levels and near Dilston Castle—two spots + of more than ordinary historical interest—the Lancastrian cause + received, in 1464, a blow from which it never rallied, though the + courageous Queen fought gallantly till the final disasters at Barnet and + Tewkesbury. The general of her forces, the Duke of Somerset, was + beheaded in Hexham market-place, and, together with several others of + rank and station, buried at Hexham. The well-known incident of Queen + Margaret’s escape into Dipton, or Deepdene woods, where she and young + Prince Edward met with robbers, and afterwards escaped by the aid of + another member of that fraternity, took place a year before this, after + the first battle of Hexham in 1463. The year had been one of constant + warfare between York and Lancaster in the north, the Castles of Alnwick + and Bamburgh having fallen into the hands of Queen Margaret’s friends + once more, after having been raptured by Edward of York the year before; + the Scots with Margaret and King Henry VI., had besieged Norham, but + were put to flight by the Earl of Warwick and hid brother, Lord + Montague; the royal fugitives sought safety at Bamburgh, whence the + Queen, with Prince Edward, sailed for Flanders, leaving King Henry in + the Castle where he was in no immediate danger; Warwick, with his + forces, retired southward again, and the gentle King remained in his + rocky stronghold, and enjoyed there nine months of unwonted peace. + Shortly after this, the Duke of Somerset deserted the cause of York for + that of Lancaster, and became the leader of the Queen’s forces. In + April, 1464, he and Sir Ralph Percy opposed, at Hedgeley Moor, the + troops of Lord Montague journeying northward to escort the Scottish + delegates who were coming to York to make terms with Edward of York. Sir + Ralph Percy was slain, exclaiming as he fell “I have saved the bird in + my bosom”—that enigmatic sentence which has given rise to so much + conjecture, but which is generally held to mean that he had saved his + honour, by dying at last, after so many changes of front, in the service + of that King and Queen to whom he originally owed allegiance. “Percy’s + Cross,” marking the site of his death, may be seen by the side of the + railway near Hedgeley Station, on the Alnwick and Wooler line. +</p> +<p> + The rest of the force dispersed, and made their way to Hexham; and Lord + Montague marching upon them from Newcastle, a sharp engagement took + place on the Levels, near the Linnels Bridge, with the result, as we + have seen, of the defeat and death of Somerset, and the overthrow of + Queen Margaret’s hopes in the north, where she had had a strong + following. +</p> +<p> + The historical interest centred on Dilston Castle brings us to much + later times, and enshrines a story which possesses a pathetic interest + beyond that of any other place in Northumberland. Originally the home of + the family of D’Eivill, later Dyvelstone (which explains the name + “Devil’s Water”) Dilston Castle came into the possession of the + Radcliffes by marriage, and in the days of the Commonwealth the + Radcliffe of the day forfeited his estates on account of his loyalty to + the house of Stuart. Charles II. restored them, and the close attachment + between the houses of Stuart and Radcliffe continued until the fortunes + of both were quenched in disaster and gloom. The figure of the young + and gallant James Radcliffe, last Earl of Derwentwater, holds the + imagination no less than the heart as it moves across the page of + history for a brief space to its tragic end. Though born in London, in + June 1689, young Radcliffe passed his childhood and youth in France in + the closest companionship with James Stuart, son of the exiled James II. + At the age of twenty-one he returned to his home in Northumbria, and + took up his residence there, his charming manners, kind heart, and + openhanded hospitality speedily endearing him to all classes. His + servants and tenants, in particular, were passionately devoted to him. + In the words of the old ballad of “Derwentwater”— +</p> +<pre> + “O, Derwentwater’s a bonnie lord, + And golden is his hair, + And glintin’ is his hawkin’ e’e + Wi’ kind love dwelling there.” +</pre> +<p> + On his marriage in 1712, the young bride and bridegroom remained for two + years at the home of the bride’s father, and preparations were made for + restoring the glories of Dilston on an extensive scale. On + Derwentwater’s return to his beautiful Northumbrian seat in 1714, the + death of Queen Anne had excited the hopes of all the friends of the + house of Stuart, and plots and secret meetings were being planned + throughout Scotland and the north of England, the objective being the + restoration of the exiled Stuarts to the throne. Derwentwater took + little part in these attempts to organise rebellion for some time, but + at length was drawn into the dangerous game, as he was too valuable an + asset to be passed over by the Jacobite party. +</p> +<p> + At last rumours of the projected rising reached London, and a warrant + was issued for the arrest of Derwentwater, even before it was known + whether he had actually joined the plotters, his well-known friendship + with the exiled Prince making it almost certain that he would be an + important figure in any movement on their behalf. For the next few weeks + the young Earl found himself obliged to remain in hiding, finding safety + in the cottages of his tenants, and in the houses of friends and + neighbours. Finally, though his good sense warned him that he was + embarking on an almost hopeless enterprise, he decided to throw in his + lot with the Jacobites. +</p> +<p> + Tradition has it that his decision was brought about by the taunts of + his Countess, who, like the rest of the Jacobite ladies, was more + enthusiastic than the men. Throwing down her fan, she scornfully offered + that to her husband as a weapon, and demanded his sword in exchange. The + immediate result was seen on that October morning when Derwentwater and + his little band of followers rode over the bridge at Corbridge with + drawn swords, on their way to Beaufront, which was their first + rendezvous; and from there proceeded to Greenrigg, near the great Wall, + which had been appointed as a general meeting-place. +</p> +<p> + There they were joined by Mr. Forster, of Bamburgh, with his contingent, + and a few from the surrounding district. Rothbury next saw the little + army, which was joined on Felton Bridge by seventy Scots; and thereafter + Warkworth, Alnwick, and Morpeth heard James Stuart proclaimed King under + the title of James III. +</p> +<p> + Newcastle was to have been their next objective, but, hearing that the + city had closed its gates, and intended to hold out for King George, the + Jacobite force, after some indecision, returned northward to Rothbury, + where they were joined by a large company of Scottish Jacobites under + Lord Kenmure. Northward again they marched to Kelso, where more than a + thousand Scots joined forces with them. +</p> +<p> + The little army numbered now almost 2,000, and a council was held to + determine what their next step should be. On its being resolved to enter + England, some hundreds of the Highlanders returned home, leaving an army + of about 1,500 to march southwards to Lancashire. On their way they put + to flight at Penrith a motley force which was raised to oppose them; + and, elated with a first success, moved forward to Preston, grievously + disappointed on the way at the failure of the people of Lancashire to + rise with them, for they had been given to understand that thousands in + that county were only awaiting an opportunity to declare for “King + James.” +</p> +<p> + At Preston they barricaded the principal streets, and repulsed General + Willis; but the arrival of General Carpenter from Newcastle changed the + face of affairs. Young Derwentwater had fought valiantly and worked + arduously at the barricades, but Forster—whose appointment as General + had been made in the hope of attracting other Protestant gentry to the + Jacobite cause—offered to submit to General Carpenter under certain + conditions. Carpenter’s reply was a demand for unconditional surrender, + and the hopeless little tragi-comedy was played out. The last scene took + place on Tower Hill three months later, when the gallant young Earl, + then only twenty-six years old, laid down the life which, after all, had + been spent in the service of others, with no selfish purpose in view, + and which was offered him, together with wealth and freedom, if he would + forsake his faith and throw aside his allegiance to the house of Stuart. + Refusing to purchase life at such a price, he was condemned, and + executed on Tower Hill on February 24th, 1716. +</p> +<p> + His brother Charles, who had been by his side throughout the rising, + had the good fortune to escape from Newgate Prison, and passed most of + his life abroad. Thirty years later, on his return to take up arms on + behalf of James’ son Charles—“bonnie Prince Charlie”—when he also drew + the sword in an attempt to regain the throne of his fathers, Radcliffe + was captured and beheaded. (For account of a monument to the memory of + these two brothers see in previous chapter paragraph relating to Haydon + Bridge.) +</p> +<p> + The story of General Forster’s escape from Newgate is told by Sir Walter + Besant, as all readers of his novel, “Dorothy Forster” know, though the + author has taken those minor liberties with unimportant facts which are + by common consent allowable in fiction. +</p> +<p> + James Radcliffe’s friends were allowed to have his body, though they + were forbidden to carry it home for burial; for such were the love and + esteem borne for the young Earl in the hearts of all his North-country + friends and dependents, that the authorities feared a disturbance of the + peace should his body be brought amongst them while their rage and grief + were still at their height. Notwithstanding the prohibition, however, + the body was brought secretly to Dilston, and buried in the vault of the + chapel, which, with the ruined tower, are all that remain of the home of + the Radcliffes. Standing amidst luxuriant foliage, and overlooking a + romantic dell, the ruins of tower and chapel remain as they fell into + decay on the death of their luckless owners. The confiscated estates + were bestowed on Greenwich Hospital, whose agents administer them still, + with the exception of certain portions purchased from time to time by + various landowners. No other family took the place of the Radcliffes in + the deserted halls; but tradition holds that the unfortunate Earl and + his sorrowful lady still revisit their ancient home. The Earl’s body is + now at Thorndon, in Essex. Below is Surtees’ beautiful ballad, “Lord + Derwentwater’s Farewell.” +</p> +<pre> + LORD DERWENTWATER’S FAREWELL + + “Farewell to pleasant Dilston Hall, + My father’s ancient seat; + A stranger now must call thee his, + Which gars my heart to greet. + Farewell each kindly well-known face + My heart has held so dear; + My tenants now must leave their lord + Or hold their lives in fear. + + No more along the banks of Tyne + I’ll rove in autumn grey; + No more I’ll hear, at early dawn, + The lav’rocks wake the day; + Then fare thee well, brave Witherington, + And Forster ever true; + Dear Shaftsbury and Errington, + Receive my last adieu. + + And fare thee well, George Collingwood, + Since fate has put us down; + If thou and I have lost our lives, + Our king has lost his crown. + Farewell, farewell, my lady dear, + Ill, ill thou counsell’dst me; + I never more may see the babe + That smiles upon thy knee. + + And fare thee well, my bonny gray steed, + That carried me aye so free; + I wish I had been asleep in my bed + The last time I mounted thee; + The warning bell now bids me cease, + My trouble’s nearly o’er; + Yon sun that rises from the sea + Shall rise on me no more. + + Albeit that here in London Town + It is my fate to die; + O carry me to Northumberland, + In my father’s grave to lie. + There chant my solemn requiem + In Hexham’s holy towers; + And let six maids of fair Tynedale + Scatter my grave with flowers. + + And when the head that wears the crown + Shall be laid low like mine; + Some honest hearts may then lament + For Radcliffe’s fallen line. + Farewell to pleasant Dilston Hall, + My father’s ancient seat; + A stranger now must call thee his, + Which gars my heart to greet.” +</pre> +<p> + Near to Corbridge the waters of the Tyne lave the ancient piers of the + old Roman bridge which led to Corstopitum, the most considerable of the + Roman stations in this region. The recent careful excavations have laid + bare the evidence of what must have been a most imposing city, and many + treasures of pottery, coins and ancient jewellery and ornaments, + together with large quantities of the bones of animals, some of them + identical with the wild cattle of Chillingham, have been brought to + light. The famous silver dish known as the Corbridge Lanx, which was + found at the riverside by a little girl in 1734, had evidently been + washed down from Corstopitum. It is now preserved at Alnwick Castle. + The antiquity of Corbridge is thus superior to that of Hexham, as far as + may be known; but on the other hand, while Hexham in Saxon times grew to + power, Corbridge declined. Yet, in its time, it was more than the home + of a famous Abbey; it was a royal city, albeit the date of its elevation + to royal rank coincided with the decline of the kingdom of which it was + the final capital. When the fierce and ruthless internal quarrels, which + rent Northumbria after Edbert’s glorious reign, had weakened it so that + it fell a prey to the gradual encroachments of its northern neighbours, + the once royal city of Bamburgh was left in the hands of a noble Saxon + family, and the court was removed to Corbridge, which remained the abode + of the kings of Northumbria until Northumbria possessed royal rank no + longer. The tale of the two hundred years during which Corbridge was the + capital city is a tale of red slaughter and ruin, murder and bitter + feud, not against outside foes, but between one family and another, + noble against king, king against relatives of other noble houses, + amongst which might possibly be found the thegn to succeed him, or to + murder him in order to bring about his own more speedy elevation to a + precarious throne. +</p> +<p> + So much was this the case, that Charles the Great, at whose court the + learned Northumbrian, Alcuin, was secretary, said that the Northumbrians + were worse than the invading heathen Danes, who, by this time, had begun + their ravages in the land. Amongst the rulers of Northumbria in those + days, the name of Alfwald the Just, who was called “the Friend of God,” + shines out with enduring light across the stormy darkness of that + terrible period; yet even his just and merciful rule and noble life + could not save him from the hand of the assassin. He was buried with + much mourning and great pomp in the Abbey at Hexham; and during the + recent excavations the fact of a Saxon interment was verified as having + taken place beneath the beautiful tomb which tradition has always held + to be that of King Alfwald the Just. This fact also helped to + demonstrate the extent of the original Abbey. +</p> +<p> + There was a monastery at Corbridge in the year 771, which is supposed to + have been founded by St. Wilfrid. Of the four churches which were + erected in later times, only one survives—the parish church of St. + Andrew, which occupies the site of the early monastery. In this ancient + church may be seen part of the original Saxon work, and many stones of + Roman workmanship are built up in the structure. +</p> +<p> + Like most other old churches in the north, it suffered severely at the + hands of the Scots, and, as at Hexham Abbey, traces of fire may be seen + on some of the stones. +</p> +<p> + King David of Scotland, on his invasion of England in 1138, which was to + end at the “Battle of the Standard,” at Northallerton, encamped at + Corbridge for a time, and terrible cruelties were committed in the + district by his followers. In the next century, King John turned the + little town upside down in his efforts to find treasure which he was + convinced must be concealed somewhere in the houses; but his search was + fruitless. In the days of the three Edwards, during the long wars with + Scotland, Corbridge suffered terribly, being fired again and again; on + one occasion, in 1296, the destruction included the burning of the + school with some two hundred hapless boys within its walls.<a href="#fn-4" + name="fnref-4" id="fnref-4"><sup>[4]</sup></a> +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-4" id="fn-4"></a> <a href="#fnref-4">[4]</a> +<i>See</i> Bates, p. 149. +</p> + +<p> + Those heroes of our childhood’s days, William Wallace and Robert Bruce, + were far from guiltless in these cruelties, though in justice to them + personally, the wild and lawless character of the men who formed their + undisciplined hosts must be remembered; and we know that Wallace tried + to save the holy vessels in Hexham Abbey, but, as soon as his back was + turned, they were swept away in the very presence of the officiating + priest. +</p> +<p> + During these terrible years most of Northumberland was a desolate waste; + and divine service had almost ceased to be performed between Newcastle + and Carlisle, even Hexham being deserted for a time. After the battle of + Bannockburn, matters were worse, if possible, and all the north lay in + fear of the Scots, but from time to time spasmodic efforts at + retaliation were made by the boldest of the Northumbrian landowners. In + the reign of Edward III., however, many of these great landowners + thwarted the King’s designs by making a traitorous peace with their + turbulent neighbours. +</p> +<p> + David II. of Scotland encamped at Corbridge for a time during his second + attempt to invade England but this expedition ended in his defeat and + capture at Neville’s Cross. Thereafter the north had rest for some + years, and Corbridge seems to have been left in peace. The Wars of the + Roses passed it by; and the Civil Wars in Stuart days also, except for + an unimportant skirmish; and the only part Corbridge saw of the Jacobite + rising of “The Fifteen” was the little cavalcade from Dilston which + clattered over the old bridge on its way to Beaufront. That bridge is + the same which we cross to-day; the date of its erection, 1674, may be + seen on one of its stones, and it was the only one on the Tyne which + withstood the great flood of 1771, when even the old Tyne Bridge at + Newcastle was swept away. +</p> +<p> + Quite close to the church there is an old pele-tower, which is in an + excellent state of preservation, little of it having disappeared except + the various floors. The vicars of Corbridge must have been often + thankful for such a refuge at hand, where they could bid defiance to + marauding bands, whether of Scottish or English nationality. In the + Register of the parish church may be seen a most interesting entry, + showing the Earl of Derwentwater’s signature as churchwarden. +</p> +<p> + At a little distance from Corbridge, to the northward, is the fortified + manor-house of Aydon Castle, standing embowered in trees where the Cor + burn runs through a little rocky ravine, down whose steep sides Sir + Robert Clavering threw most of a marauding band of Scotsmen who had + attacked the grange; the place known as “Jock’s Leap” obtained its name + from one of the Scots who escaped the fate of his comrades by his leap + for life across the ravine. The Castle, or hall, as it is variously + called, has not suffered such destruction as might have been expected, + seeing that it dates from the thirteenth century; but the thickness of + its walls, and the arrow-slits and narrow windows are obvious proof of + the necessity for defence which existed when it was first erected in the + days of Edward I. Many features of great interest, notably the ancient + fireplaces, remain in the interior of the building. +</p> +<p> + Returning down the Cor burn to the Tyne, our way lies eastward by the + side of the river, which here, after splashing and sparkling over the + shallows below Corbridge, narrows again to a deeper stream of swifter + current, and flows between green meadows and leafy woods, fern-clad + steeps and level haughs, all the way down to Ryton, where the + picturesque aspect of the river ceases, and it becomes an industrial + waterway. On this reach of the river are several places of considerable + interest. +</p> +<p> + Riding Mill, a pretty village in a well-wooded hollow, enclosed by steep + hills which rise ever higher and higher to the moors by Minsteracres and + Blanchland, stands where Watling Street, or Dere Street, leading down + the long slope of the country from Whittonstall, on reaching the Tyne + turned westward to Corstopitum. Further down the stream is Stocksfield, + where the aged King Edward I. halted on his last journey into Scotland, + on that expedition which was to have executed a summary vengeance upon + the Scots; he journeyed forward by slow stages, but was taken ill at + Newbrough, where he stayed for some time, before continuing his journey + by Blenkinsopp, Thirlwall, and Lanercost to Carlisle. +</p> +<p> + On the opposite side of the stream from Stocksfield is the lovely + village of Bywell, a “haunt of ancient peace,” “sleeping soft on the + banks of the murmuring Tyne.” This little peaceful spot was at one time + a very busy centre of life and industry on a small scale; in the Middle + Ages the inhabitants drove a thriving trade in all the necessities for a + people who spent a great part of their lives upon horseback, especially + in the making of the ironwork required—“bits, stirrups, buckles, and + the like, wherein they are very expert and cunning.” The Nevilles, lords + of Raby and earls of Westmoreland, held Bywell at this time; before that + it was in the hands of the Balliols, of Scottish fame, who, like the + Bruces, were Norman knights high in favour with their kings, Norman and + Plantagenet, though they afterwards became their most determined foes. +</p> +<p> + Long before the advent of the Normans, a church was built here by St. + Wilfrid, and in it—St. Andrew’s or the “White” Church—Egbert, twelfth + bishop of Lindisfarne, was consecrated by Archbishop Eanbald in the year + 803. More than a thousand years afterwards, in 1896, an Ordination + service was again held at Bywell, in St. Peter’s church, when five + deacons were ordained by Bishop Jacob. And in times yet more remote + than Wilfrid’s age, Roman legionaries crossed the Tyne at this point + over a bridge of their own construction, of which the piers might be + seen until our own day. Bywell, too, had its “find” of Roman silver; in + 1760 a silver cup was found in the Tyne, bearing the inscription + “Desidere vivas” around the neck of the vessel. +</p> +<p> + When the Nevilles were lords of the manor of Bywell, they began to build + a castle here, which, however, was left unfinished; the ancient tower + still standing, with its picturesque draping of ivy, was the gate-house + of the intended fortress. On the rebellion of the northern earls in + 1569, Westmoreland’s forfeited lands passed to the crown, so that Bywell + was held by Queen Elizabeth for a year or two, until she sold the estate + to a branch of the Fenwick family. +</p> +<p> + Bywell is unique in Northumberland in possessing two churches side by + side yet in different parishes. The town of Bywell, we are told by the + same authority before quoted, lay in a long line by the north bank of + the Tyne, and was “divided into two separate parishes” even then, so + that there ought to be traces of former buildings westward from the + present village. In connection with the two churches which adjoin each + other so closely, tradition tells the well-known story of the two + quarrelsome sisters who could not agree on the building of a church and + therefore each built one. One might have imagined, with some show of + reason, that there being two parishes, the two churches were placed + there in sheltering proximity to the castle, were it not for the fact + that the churches were in existence long before the stronghold of the + Nevilles was contemplated. +</p> +<p> + St. Andrew’s, called the “White” church from the fact of its being + served in later days by the White friars, is the more ancient of the + two. As we have seen, a church erected by St. Wilfrid stood on this + site, and a goodly portion of the Saxon work remains in the tower. The + hagioscope, or “squint” in this church, and the “leper” window in St. + Peter’s are interesting relics of the Middle Ages. +</p> +<p> + St. Peter’s, or the “Black” church which once belonged to the + Benedictines or Black friars, is of much later date than its neighbour, + though still an ancient building, being supposed to date from the + eleventh century. Its most interesting possessions are two very old + bells, bearing Latin inscriptions, one announcing “I proclaim the hour + for people rising, and call to those still lying down,” and the other + reading “Thou art Peter.” +</p> +<p> + Bywell suffered greatly in the flood of 1771, when the bridge was swept + away, many houses destroyed, several people drowned, and both churches + greatly damaged. +</p> +<p> + It is not surprising that this tranquil little village—“the retreat of + the old doomed divinities of wood and fountain, banished from their + native haunts,” to quote Mr. Tomlinson’s happy phrase—has always been + beloved of artists, many of whom have transferred to their canvasses the + beauties of its mingled scenery of graceful woods and sparkling waters, + ancient fortress, peaceful meadows, and gray old towers. Many noteworthy + and fine old trees are to be found in and around this artists’ haunt. +</p> +<p> + On the opposite side of the river, Bywell’s younger sister, Stocksfield, + grows apace, reaching out towards the lulls and along the eastward + lanes, though not as yet in such measure as to cover the hillsides with + any semblance of a town, being still almost hidden amongst the profusion + of trees that clothe most of the district in their leafy greenery. On + the north bank of the stream the village of Ovingham now rises into + view, its name telling us plainly that there was a settlement here in + Saxon times “the home of the sons of Offa”; and the slope above the + river is fittingly crowned by the ancient church of St. Mary, whose + tower, with its curiously irregular windows, is the work of the Saxon + builders of the original church. The rest of the building, except some + Saxon work at the west end of the nave, dates from early Norman days. + Here is the burial place of the famous brothers John and Thomas Bewick, + who were born at Cherryburn House, just across the river. In this + delightful spot the boy Thomas Bewick grew up, absorbing unconsciously + the natural beauties that are to be found here by the Tyne and in the + little ravine through which the Cherry Burn flows, which beauties he so + lovingly reproduced on his engraving blocks later in life. +</p> +<p> + At the fords of Ovingham, Eltringham, and Bywell, the Scots under + General Leslie crossed the Tyne in 1644, and made their way into Durham, + leaving six regiments to watch Newcastle. +</p> +<p> + The picturesque ruins of Prudhoe Castle, whose lofty towers dominate the + valley for some distance up and down the stream, stand on a commanding + rocky ridge above the Tyne. The lands of Prudhoe were given, soon after + the Norman Conquest, to one of Duke William’s immediate followers, + Robert de Umfraville; and it was Odinel de Umfraville who built the + present castle in the twelfth century. Its strength was soon put to the + test, for a few years after it was built William the Lion of Scotland + found that the place baffled all his attempts to capture it. In his + anger he determined to reduce the fortress of Odinel, who had spent much + time at the Scottish court in his youth, the Kings of Scotland being at + that time lords of Tynedale. The attempt ended in total failure, the + greatest harm the Scots did on that occasion being to destroy the + cornfields and strip the bark from the apple trees near the Castle; + while, a day or two afterwards, Odinel de Umfraville, with Glanvile and + Balliol, captured the Scottish monarch himself at Alnwick. +</p> +<p> + Another Umfraville, Richard, quarrelled with his neighbour of Nafferton, + on the opposite side of the river, for having begun to erect a fortress + much too near Umfraville’s own. He sent a petition to the King on the + subject and King John commanded Philip de Ulecote’s building operations + to cease. The unfinished castle, known as Nafferton Tower, remains to + this day as Philip’s masons left it so many centuries ago. +</p> +<p> + Sir Ingram de Umfraville was by the side of Edward II. at Bannockburn, + when, before the battle, Bruce ordered his men to kneel in prayer. + Edward looked on the kneeling host, and turning to Umfraville, exclaimed + “See! Yon men kneel to ask mercy.” “You say truth, sire,” answered the + knight of Prudhoe; “they ask mercy—but not of you.” +</p> +<p> + The last Umfraville, who died in 1381, left a widow, the Countess Maud, + who married a Percy of Alnwick, and so the castle passed into the hands + of that family, in whose possession it still remains. +</p> +<p> + When Odinel de Umfraville was building the keep of his castle, every one + in the neighbourhood was pressed into the service, and all lent their + aid except the men of Wylam. Wylam had been given to the church of St. + Oswyn at Tynemouth, and, as was customary, was freed by charter from the + duty of castle building, or any other feudal service excepting such as + were rendered to the Prior of Tynemouth as occasion arose. So, in spite + of the angry surprise of the lord of Prudhoe, the Wylam men quietly held + to their charter, and not all Odinel’s threats or persuasions moved them + one whit. +</p> +<p> + The Stanley Burn, which enters the Tyne close to Wylam railway station, + divides this part of the county of Durham from Northumberland, so that + from Wylam to the sea the south side of the Tyne is in the county of + Durham. The most noteworthy object at Wylam, or, to be precise, a little + way along the old post-road, leading to Newcastle from Hexham, is the + red-tiled cottage in which George Stephenson was born in 1781. It stands + on the north bank of the Tyne, where it can be distinctly seen from + passing trains. Its neighbour cottage has been repaired and re-roofed, + but Stephenson’s cottage remains unaltered. +</p> +<p> + Mr. Blackett, who owned Wylam Colliery at the beginning of the + nineteenth century, took the keenest interest in the question of + locomotives, and had tried more than one on his estate before George + Stephenson brought them to the point of practical use. At Newburn, just + four miles down the Tyne, George Stephenson passed many years of his + youth; here he learned to read and write, when he was old enough to earn + a man’s wage and could afford the few pence necessary; and here, in the + parish church, may be seen, with an interval of twenty years between + them, the entries of his two marriages. +</p> +<p> + Newburn is important nowadays for its steel works, within whose + workshops is incorporated an old building formerly known as Newburn + Hall; but in days long past its importance arose from its being on the + ford of the Tyne nearest to Newcastle. This ford was frequently made use + of, notably by the Scots in the reign of Charles I. Their chief camping + ground is pointed out to us by the name of Scotswood, which also + describes what Scotswood was like in those days—a great contrast to its + present appearance, when the lines of brick and mortar stretching out + uninterruptedly from Newcastle make it practically one with that town. + In 1640, the Scottish army, under General Leslie, faced the Royalist + troops, under Lord Conway, on the south side of the river. The Scots + mounted their rude cannon on Newburn Church tower, and the English + raised earthworks along the bank of the river, which was here fordable + in two places. The two armies calmly watered their horses on opposite + banks of the stream all the next morning, but a shot at a Scottish + officer from the English ranks precipitated the battle; and the Scottish + army, having made a breach in both earthworks with their artillery, + waded across the fords and drove the Royalist troops up the bank, after + one spasmodic rally, which, however, failed to check the Scottish + advance. The way was now open for the Scottish army to continue down the + south bank of the Tyne and attack Newcastle from Gateshead. It had been + Lord Conway’s task to prevent this, but owing to his incapacity or want + of whole-hearted enthusiasm for his cause, he failed entirely. +</p> +<p> + Not until 1644, however, was a Scottish attack on Newcastle actually + made, for on this occasion Leslie, as we have already seen, led his men + across the fords higher up the river and marched southwards. The + earthworks thrown up by Conway’s troops may still be seen on Stella + Haughs. +</p> +<p> + It is supposed that the Romans had a fort here, commanding the passage + of the river; indeed it would have been strange had this not been the + case, for the Romans were not the people to disregard any point of + strategical importance, especially one so near their stations of Pons + AElii and Condercum. Many stones of Roman workmanship have been used in + the building of the Newburn church. +</p> +<p> + From this point to its mouth, nearly fifteen miles away, both banks of + the Tyne present an unbroken scene of industry. Between the steel works + of Newburn and the iron and chemical works, the brick and tile works of + Blaydon and past the famous yards of Elswick, down to the wharves and + shipyards of North and South Shields, the Tyne rolls its swift dark + waters through a scene of stirring activity; the air is dusky with soot + and smoke, and reverberant with the clang of hammers and the pulsing + beat of machinery. Some old and world-famed works have been closed or + removed, like Hawks’ and Stephenson’s, but others, many others, have + opened; and the map of the positions of Tyne industries, published under + the auspices of the Newcastle and Gateshead Chamber of Commerce, is a + record of resolute toil and brilliant achievement in the many aspects of + industrial life represented on the river. +</p> +<p> + And, apart from the mere prosperity and commercial supremacy of the + district, there is another cause for pride in the many notable + inventions which hail from Tyneside; from the locomotive and the + “Geordie” lamp of Stephenson, the hydraulic machinery and the big guns + of Armstrong, to the wonderful turbine engines of Parsons; the invention + of water-ballast, too, belongs to the Tyne, for it was the idea of a + Gateshead man, and first used at Jarrow. +</p> +<p> + And, in connection with ships and seafarers, though not in any + commercial sense, we may proudly recall the fact that the first Lifeboat + was launched on the Tyne and named after the river; and the first + Volunteer Life Brigade was formed at Tynemouth. The Worth Eastern + Railway is carried across the Tyne by the Scotswood Bridge; and it was + on this part of the river that the boat-races, for which the Tyne was + once famous, were rowed. At Newcastle, the river is bridged by four huge + structures—The Redheugh Bridge, the new King Edward VII. bridge, the + High Level, and Swing Bridges,—all connecting Newcastle with the sister + town of Gateshead. An interesting sight it is to see the Swing Bridge + gradually turning on its central pivot, until it lies in a straight line + up and down the stream, allowing some huge liner to pass, or some new + battleship, fresh from Elswick, to sail down the river, on its way to + make its trial trip over the “measured mile” in the open sea at the + mouth of the river, and thereafter to take its place among the armaments + of the nations. +</p> +<p> + The High Level Bridge allows ships of any height to pass under its lofty + and graceful arches, which look so light, but are yet so strong. This + splendid bridge is an enduring monument of Robert Stephenson, whose work + it was; and the story of its erection, at the cost of nearly half a + million of money, makes most interesting reading. It took nearly two and + a half years to build, and was opened for traffic in 1849—little more + than three years after the first pile was driven in. A few months later, + in 1850, the newly built Central Station, with its imposing portico, was + opened by Queen Victoria. +</p> +<p> + Passing down the Tyne from Newcastle, which requires separate notice, + and Walker, with its reminiscences of “Walker Pit’s deun weel for me,” + we arrive at Wallsend, which in twenty-five years has grown from a + colliery village with a population of 4,000 to a town of 23,000 + inhabitants. Here are great shipbuilding and repairing yards, chemical + works and cement works; here, too, are Parsons’ Steam Turbine Works, + where was designed and built the little “Turbinia,” on which tiny vessel + the early experiments were made with the new engines; and here are the + famous mines which have made “Best Wallsend” a synonym for best + household coal all over the land. These mines, after having been closed + for many years, were reopened at the beginning of the century, and now + turn out upwards of one thousand tons of coal per day. +</p> +<p> + The church of St. Peter, at Wallsend, is little more than a hundred + years old; the old Church of Holy Cross, now long disused, was built + towards the end of the twelfth century. But Wallsend itself, as all the + world knows, is of much greater antiquity, for was it not, as its name + proclaims, situated at the end of the Great Wall? Its name then, + however, was not Wallsend but Segedunum. +</p> +<p> + Willington Quay, further down the river, was, for a time, the home of + George Stephenson, and here his son, Robert, was born. At Howdon, which + used to be known as Howdon Pans, from the salt-pans there, the painter + John Martin and his brothers once worked when boys, being employed in + some rope-works. Here, too, the Henzells, a family of refugees who + settled in the district in the days of Elizabeth, founded some glass + works, for which industry the Tyne has been famous from that day to + this. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus05"></a> +<a href="images/092.jpg"> +<img src="images/092.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="Illustration: +The River Tyne at Newcastle (showing Swing Bridge Open)." /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>The River Tyne at Newcastle (showing Swing Bridge Open).</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + Before the railway on the south side of the river was laid down, + passengers who wished to reach Jarrow had to alight at Howdon and cross + the river; and a racy dialect song—“Howdon for Jarrow” with its refrain + of “Howdon for Jarra—ma hinnies, loup oot”—commemorates the fact. + Willington Quay and Howdon carry on the line of shipbuilding yards to + Northumberland Dock and the staithes of the Tyne Commissioners, where + the waggon ways from various collieries bring the coal to the water’s + edge. Tyne Dock, just opposite, and the Albert Edward Dock near North. + Shields, provide abundance of shipping accommodation, besides what is + afforded by the river itself; and now the river flows between the steep + banks of North and South Shields. As the names declare, these two + growing and prosperous towns once consisted of a few fishermen’s huts, + or “shielings”; but that was long ago, when the north shore of the Tyne + was owned by the Prior of Tynemouth, and the southern shore by the + Bishop of Durham, and the citizens of Newcastle complained to King + Edward I. that these two ecclesiastics had raised towns, “where no town + ought to be,” and that “fishermen sold fish there which ought to be sold + at Newcastle, to the great injury of the whole borough, and in detriment + to the tolls of our Lord the King.” These quarrels between Newcastle and + the other settlements on the Tyne continued with varying results, until + in the days of Cromwell, Ralph Gardiner of Chirton, a little village + close to North Shields, took up the cudgels for the growing towns; and + by dint of great perseverance, and in spite of much persecution and + ill-will, succeeded in getting most of the unjust privileges of their + stronger neighbour abolished. +</p> +<p> + There were salt-pans, too, on both sides of the mouth of the Tyne, which + were worked in connection with the monasteries from very early days; and + Daniel Defoe, when he visited the north in 1726, declared that he could + see from the top of the Cheviot “the smoke of the salt-pans at Sheals, + at the mouth of the Tyne, which was about forty miles south of this.” +</p> +<p> + North Shields clings haphazard to the steep bank of the Tyne, and + spreads away up and beyond it, reaching out towards Wallsend on the + river shore and Tynemouth along by the sea, the older parts by the + river looking black and grimy to the last degree; but there is a silver + lining to this very black cloud—not visible, it is true, but distinctly + audible—in the great shipbuilding and repairing works known as Smith’s + Dock, one of the largest concerns of the kind in Great Britain, where so + many hundreds of men earn their daily bread; and in the fishing + industry, which was the foundation of the town’s prosperity, and bids + fair to be so for many years to come, as it is increasing year by year. + The Fish Quay at North Shields is a sight worth seeing; and, in the + herring season, it is increasingly frequented by Continental buyers. +</p> +<p> + The fortunes of South Shields and Jarrow, though these towns are not in + Northumberland, are yet so bound up with the story of the Tyne that no + one would ever think of that river without them. Especially is this the + case with Jarrow, which “Palmer’s” has raised from a small colliery + village to a large and flourishing town. In those famous yards, + everything that is necessary for the building of the largest ironclad, + from the first smelting of the ore until the last rivet is in place, can + be done. All Northumbria—Northumbria in the ancient and widest sense + of the word—owes a debt of gratitude to Jarrow, for was it not the home + of Bede? The monk of Jarrow, who spent all his long life in the same + monastery by the Don, coming to it when he was a child of ten, made that + spot of Northumbrian ground famed to the farthest limits of the + civilized Europe of his day; and scholars from all over the Continent + came to learn at the feet of the Northumbrian teacher. Beloved and + revered by all, and in harness to the last hour of his busy life, he + died in the year 735, just one hundred years after the coming of Aidan + to Lindisfarne. “First among English scholars, first among English + theologians, first among English historians, it is in the monk of + Jarrow that English literature strikes its roots.”—<i>J.R. Green</i>. +</p> +<p> + The Jarrow of to-day, and all its neighbours of industrial Tyneside, + possess no beauty of aspect such as the towns that are more fortunately + situated on the upper reaches of the river; they are muffled in clouds + of smoke and soot, and darkened by the necessities of their toil in + grimy ores and the ever-present coal. But no one who has ever looked on + these smoky reaches of the Tyne with a seeing eye, or steamed down the + river on a day either of gloom or sunshine, can refuse to acknowledge + that it has a certain grandeur, a stern beauty of its own, that can stir + the heart and the imagination more deeply than any mere prettiness. +</p> +<p> + From the numberless hives of activity on both sides of the river clouds + of smoke roll heavily upward, and jets of steam from panting machinery + leap up in momentary whiteness on the dark background; the white wings + of flocks of wheeling gulls flash in the occasional sunshine which + lights up the scene, and between the clouds there are glimpses of blue + sky. Towards sunset, the evening mists drape the darkening banks and + crowded shipping in a soft robe of gray, which, together with the + glowing sky behind, produces most wonderful Turneresque effects; and the + fall of night on the river only changes the aspect without diminishing + the interest of the scene. The blaze from a myriad workshops and forges + glows against the darkness, the lamps twinkle overhead on the steep + banks, and the lights from wharf and steamer are reflected in a thousand + shimmering lines on the dark water, which flows on soundlessly, like the + river of a dream. +</p> +<p> + On a day of wind and sun all these beauties are intensified a + thousandfold; the smoke is blown hither and thither in flying clouds, + the current seems to rush more swiftly, and a sense of vigorous life + permeates the whole scene, giving to the beholder a feeling of keen + exhilaration, as of new life rushing through his veins. Especially is + this the case on reaching the mouth of the river and meeting the dancing + waters of the open harbour, where the twin piers of South Shields and + Tynemouth reach out sheltering arms. Within the wide bay they enclose, + the storm-driven vessel may always find comparatively smooth water, how + wildly soever the waves may rage and roar outside. +</p> +<p> + It is difficult to believe that so lately as the years 1858-60, the + “bar” at the mouth of the Tyne was an insuperable obstacle to all but + vessels of very moderate draught; and that ships might lie for days, and + sometimes weeks, after being loaded, before there came a tide high + enough to carry them out to sea. The river was full of sand-banks, and + little islands stood here and there—one in mid-stream, where the + ironclads are now launched at Elswick. Three or four vessels might be + seen at once bumping and grounding on the “bar” unable to make their way + over. Well might the old song say— +</p> +<pre> + “The ships are all at the bar, + They canna get up to Newcastle!” +</pre> +<p> + An old map of the Tyne shows a number of sand-banks down the lower + reaches of the river, with ships aground on each, of them. +</p> +<p> + But the River Tyne Commissioners have changed all that, and their + implement of warfare has been the hideous but necessary dredger. No + longer need vessels of heavy tonnage desert the Tyne for the Wear, as + they were perforce driven to do during the first half of the nineteenth + century, for the Wearsiders had set about deepening and widening their + river long before the Tynesiders did the same by theirs. Considerable + and continuous pressure had to be brought to bear on the civic + authorities at Newcastle before they finally took action; but having + once done so, the future of the Tyne was assured. Now it ranks second + only to the Thames in the actual number of vessels entering and leaving, + and owns only the Mersey its superior in the matter of tonnage. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus06"></a> +<img src="images/098.jpg" width="300" height="186" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap04"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br/>NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.</h2> + +<pre> + “Her dusky hair in many a tangle clings + About her, and her looks, though stern and cold, + Grow tender with the dreams of by-gone days.” + + —<i>W.W. Tomlinson</i>. +</pre> +<p> + The outward signs of “by-gone days,” in the Newcastle of to-day, with + the one notable exception of the Castle, must be diligently sought out + amongst the overwhelming mass of what is often called “rampant + modernity,” of which the town to-day chiefly consists. The modernity, + however, is not all bad, as this favourite phrase would imply; much of + it is doubtless regrettable and a very little of it perhaps inevitable; + but no one will deny either the modernity or the beauty of Grey Street, + one of the finest streets in any English town; or the fine appearance of + Grainger Street, Blackett Street, Eldon Square, or any other of the + stately thoroughfares with which Grainger and Dobson enriched the town + within the last eighty years—no one, that is, who has learned to “lift + his eyes to the sky-line in passing along a thoroughfare” instead of + keeping them firmly fixed at the level of shop windows. +</p> +<p> + The grim old building which, when it was new, gave its name to the town, + is one for which no search needs to be made; its blackened and time worn + walls are seen from the train windows by every traveller who enters the + city from the south. So near is it to the railway, that in the + ultra-utilitarian days of sixty or seventy years ago, it narrowly + escaped the ignoble fate of being used as a signal-cabin. It was + rescued, however, by the Society of Antiquaries, and carefully preserved + by them—more fortunate in this respect than the castle of Berwick, for + the platform of Berwick railway station actually stands on the spot once + occupied by the Great Hall of the Castle. +</p> +<p> + The site of the New Castle, on a part of the river bank which slopes + steeply down to the Tyne, had been occupied centuries before by a Roman + fort, constructed by order of the Emperor Hadrian, who visited Britain + A.D. 120. He also constructed a bridge over the Tyne at this spot, fort + and bridge receiving the name of Pons AElii, after the Emperor (Publius + AElius Hadrianus). This became the second station on the Great Wall + erected by Hadrian’s orders along the line of forts which Agricola had + raised forty years before. This station shared the fate of others on the + abandonment of Britain by its powerful conquerors, who had now for more + than two hundred years been its no less powerful friends and protectors. + Pons AElii fell into ruins; but so advantageous a site could not long be + overlooked, and we read of a Saxon settlement there, apparently that of + a religious community, from which fact it was known as Monkchester. All + the records of this period seem to have perished, for we hear nothing of + the settlement during the Danish invasions; but a Saxon town of some + kind was evidently in existence at the time of the Conquest, though in + 1073 three monks from the south who came to York, and, obtaining a guide + to “Muneche-cester,” sought for some religious house in that settlement, + could find none, and were prevailed upon by the first Norman Bishop of + Durham, Walcher, to stay at Jarrow. The years from 1069 to 1080 were + evil years for Northumberland, for at the first-named date the Conqueror + devastated the North, and left neither village nor farm unscathed; and, + as the desolated land was beginning to recover again, Odo of Bayeux and + Robert of Normandy relentlessly laid it waste once more, partly in + revenge for the murder of Bishop Walcher at Gateshead, and partly to + punish Malcolm of Scotland for his invasion of Norman territory. +</p> +<p> + It was on his return from this expedition, which had penetrated as far + north as Falkirk, that Robert, by his father’s orders, raised a + stronghold on the Tyne on the site of the old Roman fort, in the year + 1080. His brother, William Rufus, erected a much stronger and better + one, the Keep of which, re-built by Henry II., stands to-day dark and + grim, looking out over river and town, as it has stood since the Red + King ruled the land, and, like his father, the Conqueror, found it + desirable to have a stronghold at this northern point of his turbulent + realm, around which a town might grow up in safety. +</p> +<p> + The roof and battlements of the Keep are modern, but the rest of it—the + walls, 12 to 18 feet thick; the dismal dungeon, or guard chamber, with + iron rings and fetters still fastened to the walls and central pillar; + the beautiful little chapel, with its finely-ornamented arches; the + little chambers in the thickness of the walls; the well, 94 feet deep, + sunk through the solid masonry into the rock beneath; the arrow slits in + the walls; the stones in the roof scored with frequent bolts from the + besiegers’ crossbows, one of which bolts is firmly embedded in the wall + opposite one of the narrow windows; the ancient weapons and armour—all + these breathe of the days when the Red King’s castle took its part in + the doings of our hardy ancestors in those stormy times in which they + lived and fought. +</p> +<p> + The last time the old Keep was called upon to act as fortress and refuge + in time of war was in Stuart days, after the ten weeks siege of + Newcastle by the Scottish General Leslie, Earl of Leven, in 1644, when + brave “Governor Marley” and his friends held out in the castle for a few + days longer, after the town was taken. In memory of this stout defence + and long resistance King Charles gave to the town its motto—<i>Fortiter + defendit triumphans</i>, which Bates gives as having originally been + <i>Fortiter defendendo triumphat</i>—“She glories in her brave defence.” +</p> +<p> + Two of the original fireplaces still remain in the Castle, and there are + besides many objects of great interest which have been bestowed there + from time to time for safe keeping; and many more are to be seen at the + Black Gate, formerly the chief entrance to the Castle Hall and its + surroundings. The Great Hall of the Castle, in which John Baliol did + homage to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland, stood on the spot now + covered by the Moot Hall. The Black Gate, the lower part of which is the + oldest part of the building, which has many times been altered and + repaired, is now used as a museum. There were nearly a dozen rooms in + it, and not so many years ago the Corporation of Newcastle let these out + in tenements, until this building also was rescued from degradation by + the Newcastle Society of Antiquaries, who took down most of the dividing + walls, and converted it into a museum. Here may be seen stored many + sculptured stones, altars, and statues, which have been brought from the + various Roman stations in the north. +</p> +<p> + Around the walls of one room are to be seen facsimiles of the famous + Bayeux tapestry; there is also a model of the Castle as originally + built, and there are many more exhibits and loans of the very greatest + interest. +</p> +<p> + Of the walls of Newcastle only fragments remain, the most considerable + portion being found between Westgate Road and St. Andrew’s Churchyard; + here are also remains of several of the watch-towers that stood at + intervals around the walls—the Heber Tower, the Mordaunt or Morden + Tower, and the Ever Tower. Between the two first named towers may be + seen a little doorway, walled up, once used by the Friars, who obtained + from Edward II. permission to make the doorway in order that they might + the more easily reach their gardens and orchards outside; but they had + to be ready to build it up at a moment’s notice on the approach of an + enemy. One of the towers—the Carliol or Weaver’s Tower—was pulled down + to make room for the Central Free Library, opened in 1881. Many little + fragments of the Castle wall are to be seen near the High Level Bridge, + incorporated in other walls, as far as the South Postern of the Castle, + which is said to be the only remaining Norman postern in England and is + the oldest remaining part of the Castle. +</p> +<p> + The old streets of Newcastle are fast disappearing to make room for the + ever-increasing needs of commerce; at the moment of writing it is being + proposed to pull down more of the historic street called the Side, to + make room for new printing offices. At the head of this curious old + street, which curves downward from the Cathedral to the river, stood the + birthplace of Cuthbert Collingwood, who was to become Admiral Lord + Collingwood, and second in fame only to Nelson himself. Both this house + and the one where Thomas Bewick had his workshop, near the Cathedral, + have gone to make room for new buildings. +</p> +<p> + At the foot of this street, where it curves to the river front, is the + Sandhill, facing the Swing Bridge. Here are several old houses + remaining, with many-windowed fronts, looking out on the river. One of + these was the house of Aubone Surtees, the banker, whose daughter + Bessie, in 1772, stole out of one of those little windows, and gave + herself into the keeping of young Jack Scott, who was waiting for her + below. The adventurous youth became Lord Chancellor of England, and is + best known as Lord Eldon; his brother William became Lord Stowell, and + was for many years Judge of the High Court of Admiralty. +</p> +<p> + Opposite the old houses of the Sandhill, close to the river bank, is the + old Guildhall, greatly altered in appearance from the time when John + Wesley preached from its steps to the keelmen and fishermen of the town. + It was here that a sturdy fishwife put her arms round him, when some + boisterous spirits in the crowd threatened him with ill-usage, and, + shaking her fist in their faces, swore to “floor them” if they touched + her “canny man.” +</p> +<p> + This spot, where the Swing Bridge unites the lower banks of the stream, + seems always to have been the most convenient point for crossing the + river, for the present bridge is the fifth that has spanned the Tyne at + this point: Hadrian’s bridge, Pons Aelii; a mediaeval bridge destroyed + by fire in 1248; the Old Tyne Bridge, swept away in the flood of 1771; + the successor of this, which was found too low to allow of the passage + of such large vessels as were able to sail up the Tyne after the + deepening of the river bed; and the present Swing Bridge, which is + worked by hydraulic machinery, the invention of Lord Armstrong. We do + not know how long Hadrian’s bridge lasted, but William the Conqueror, + when returning from his expedition into Scotland in 1071, was obliged to + camp for a time at “Monec-cestre,” as the Tyne was in flood, and there + was no bridge. +</p> +<p> + Some ancient houses are to be found in Low Friar Street, one of which, + with winged heads and dolphins carved on it, is said to be the oldest + house in Newcastle. Turning up an opening on the west side of this + street, all that is left of the ancient Blackfriars’ Monastery may be + seen; some of its rooms are used as the meeting places of various Trade + Guilds, and the rest form low tenement houses, in the walls of which are + many Gothic archways and ancient window-openings built up. Over the door + of the Smith’s Hall is a carving of three hammers, and the + inscription:— +</p> +<pre> + “By hammer and hand + All artes do stand.” +</pre> +<p> + This Hall was formerly the Great Hall of the monastery; and here Edward + Baliol did homage to Edward III. for his crown of Scotland. Nun Street, + leading out of Grainger Street, reminds us of the days when the Nunnery + of St. Bartholomew stood in this part of the town, and the Nun’s Moor + was part of the grounds belonging to the establishment. In High Friar + Street, which was not then the dilapidated lane it now appears, Richard + Grainger was born. +</p> +<p> + Another part of the town which has fallen from its former high estate is + the Close, which lies along the river front, westward from the Sandhill. + Here, at one time, lived many of the principal inhabitants of + Newcastle—Sir John Marley, Sir William Blackett, Sir Ralph Millbank, + and others equally important; and here, too, was the former Mansion + House of the city, where the Mayors resided, and where they could + receive distinguished visitors to the town. Amongst those who have been + entertained there were the Duke of Wellington and the first King of the + Belgians. But in 1836 the Corporation of Newcastle sold the house, with + the furniture, books, pictures, plate, and everything else it contained. +</p> +<p> + Eastward from the Sandhill is Sandgate, immortalised in the “Newcastle + Anthem”—The Keel Row. Its present appearance is very different from the + green slope and sandy shore of former days; the keelmen, too, have + vanished, and their place in the commercial economy of the Tyne is taken + by waggon-ways and coal-shoots. The old narrow alleys of the town, + called “chares,” are fast disappearing; the best known is Pudding Chare, + leading from Bigg Market to Westgate Road. Many and various are the + explanations that have been offered to account for its curious name, but + the true one does not seem yet to have appeared. +</p> +<p> + Pilgrim Street owes its name to the fact that it was the route of the + pilgrims who came in great numbers to visit the little chapel or shrine + of Our Lady of Jesmond, and St. Mary’s Well. In Pilgrim Street was the + gateway of a stately mansion, surrounded by beautiful gardens, called + Anderson Place, from a Mr. Anderson who bought it from Sir Thomas + Blackett in 1783. It had been built by another Mr. Anderson in the reign + of Queen Elizabeth, on the site where once stood the monastery of the + Grey Friars; he, however, had named his mansion “The Newe House.” In + this house Charles I. lived when a prisoner in Newcastle. Anderson Place + no longer exists, but the Newcastle of to-day has a constant reminder of + its last owners, for Major George Anderson, son of the Mr. Anderson who + purchased it in 1783, gave to the Cathedral of St. Nicholas the great + bell—known on that account as “The Major”—whose deep reverberant + “boom” can be heard for a distance of ten miles. The bell was re-cast in + 1891, and in 1892 a new peal of bells was consecrated by Canon Gough. +</p> +<p> + Westgate Road is another interesting street; the old West Gate stood + near the site of the present Tyne Theatre, and from this point onward + the street follows, almost exactly, the line of the Roman Wall. +</p> +<p> + Some noteworthy houses in Newcastle are—No. 17, Eldon Place, where + George and Robert Stephenson lived in the years 1824-25; No. 4, St. + Thomas’ Crescent, where the celebrated artist, Wm. Bell Scott lived when + he was headmaster of the School of Art, and to whom Swinburne wrote a + fine memorial poem; the Academy of Arts, in Blackett Street, built for + the exhibition of pictures by those well-known painters T.M. Richardson + and H.T. Parker, and for a short period the home of the Pen and Palette + Club, which, both here and in its new home at Higham Place, has + entertained many people distinguished in letters, art, and travel who + have visited the town of late years; and No. 9, Pleasant Row, the + birthplace of Lord Armstrong, which has only recently been destroyed to + make way for the N.E.R. Company’s new ferro-concrete Goods Station in + New Bridge Street. +</p> +<p> + The list of important buildings in Newcastle, exclusive of the churches, + is a long one; one of the most prominent is the Library of the Literary + and Philosophical Society, familiarly known as the “Lit. and Phil.,” + which stands at the lower end of Westgate Road, a little way back from + the roadway. It is built on the site of the town house of the Earls of + Westmoreland; and its fine Lecture Theatre was a gift to the Society + from Lord Armstrong. It is the centre of the intellectual life of the + city as a whole, apart from the work of the justly famed Armstrong + College, a teaching institute of University rank. This was formerly + known as the Durham College of Science, and, with the Durham College of + Medicine, forms part of the University of Durham. +</p> +<p> + Other seats of learning in the town are the Rutherford College, in Bath + Lane, and the Royal Grammar School, which dates from the reign of Henry + VIII. It was reconstituted by Queen Elizabeth, and has had many changes + of abode. At one time it occupied the buildings of the Convent of St. + Mary, which covered the space where Stephenson’s monument now stands. + While the Grammar School was located there, the boys Cuthbert + Collingwood, William Scott, and John Scott, who afterwards became so + famous, attended it; and other distinguished scholars were John Horsley, + author of <i>Britannia Romana</i>, and John Brand and Henry Bourne, the + historians of Newcastle. The school is now situated in Eskdale Terrace + and its splendid playing fields stretch across to the North Road. +</p> +<p> + One of the most interesting buildings in Newcastle is the Hancock Museum + of Natural History, at Barras Bridge. It contains a matchless collection + of birds, and some unique specimens of extinct species; also the + original drawings of Bewick’s <i>British Birds</i>, and other works of his. + The famous Newcastle naturalist, John Hancock, presented his wonderful + collection, prepared by himself, to the museum. Here, too, is a complete + set of fossils from the coal measures, including some fine specimens of + Sigillaria. These are only a few of the treasures contained in the + museum, which was built chiefly through the generosity of the late Lord + and Lady Armstrong, Colonel John Joicey of Newton Hall, Stocksfield, and + Mr. Edward Joicey of Whinney House. +</p> +<p> + The new Victoria Infirmary, on the Leazes, is a magnificent building, + and was opened by King Edward VII. in 1906. It was erected by public + subscription, and when £100,000 had been subscribed, the late Mr. John + Hall generously offered a like sum on condition that the building should + be erected either on the Leazes or the Town Moor. Arrangements were made + to do so, and another £100,000 given by the present Lord and Lady + Armstrong. +</p> +<p> + But fine as all these buildings are, the pride of Newcastle is one much + older than any of them—the Cathedral church of St. Nicholas, with its + exquisitely beautiful lantern steeple. This wonderful lantern was the + work of Robert de Rhodes, who lived in the fifteenth century. The arms + of this early benefactor of the church may yet be seen on the ancient + font. The present church was finished in the year 1350, says Dr. Bruce; + but there was a former one on this site to which the crypt is supposed + to belong. It has undergone many alterations at different times, and has + sheltered within its walls many and various great personages. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus07"></a> +<a href="images/110.jpg"> +<img src="images/110.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="Illustration: +Newcastle-upon-Tyne." /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>Newcastle-upon-Tyne.</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + In 1451, a treaty between England and Scotland was ratified in the + vestry. In the reign of Henry VII., his daughter, Princess Margaret, + attended mass here, with all her retinue, when she stayed in the town on + her way to Scotland to be married to the gallant young king James IV. + She was entertained at the house of the Austin Friars, which stood where + now stands the Holy Jesus Hospital at the Manors, near to the Sallyport + Tower. When James I. became king of England, he attended service here, + as he passed through Newcastle on his way to his southern capital. In + the reign of his ill-fated son, Charles I., Newcastle was occupied by + the Scots, under General Leslie, for a year after the battle of Newburn in + 1640; and again in 1644 was besieged by them for ten weeks. On this + occasion the town nearly lost its chief ornament and pride—the lantern + of the church; for “There is a traditional story,” says Bourne, “of this + building I am now treating of, which may not be improper to be here + taken notice of. In the time of the Civil Wars, when the Scots had + besieged the town for several weeks, and were still as far as at first + from taking it, the General sent a messenger to the Mayor of the town, + and demanded the keys and the delivery up of the town, or he would + immediately demolish the steeple of St. Nicholas. +</p> +<p> + “The Mayor and Aldermen, upon hearing this, immediately ordered a + certain number of the chiefest Scottish prisoners to be carried up to + the top of the old tower, the place below the lantern, and there + confined. After this, they returned the General an answer to this + purpose, that they would upon no terms deliver up the town, but would to + the last moment defend it; that the steeple of St. Nicholas was indeed a + beautiful and magnificent piece of architecture, and one of the great + ornaments of the town, but yet should be blown to atoms before ransomed + at such a rate; that, however, if it was to fall it should not fall + alone; that at the same moment he destroyed the beautiful structure he + should bathe his hands in the blood of his countrymen, who were placed + there on purpose, either to preserve it from ruin or to die along with + it. This message had the desired effect. The men were kept prisoners + during the whole time of the siege, and not so much as one gun was fired + against it.” +</p> +<p> + In 1646, when Charles I. was a prisoner in Newcastle for nearly a year + (from May, 1646, to February 3rd, 1647), this was the church he + attended; and we may picture him listening perforce to the + “admonishing” of the stern Covenanters. In this connection occurs the + oft-told story of his ready wit, when one of the preachers wound up his + discourse by giving out the metrical version of the fifty-second Psalm, + with an obvious allusion to his royal hearer:— +</p> +<pre> + “Why dost thou, tyrant, boast abroad, + Thy wicked works to praise?” +</pre> +<p> + Charles quickly stood up and asked for the fifty-sixth Psalm instead:— +</p> +<pre> + “Have mercy, Lord, on me, I pray, + For man would me devour.” +</pre> +<p> + The good folk of Newcastle with willing voice rendered the latter Psalm, + doubtless to the discomfiture of the preacher. +</p> +<p> + Gray, who published his <i>Chorographia</i>, or Survey of + Newcastle-upon-Tyne, just three years after this, describes St. + Nicholas’ as having “a stately, high, stone steeple, with many pinakles, + a stately stone lantherne, standing upon foure stone arches, builded by + Robert de Rhodes.... It lifteth up a head of Majesty, as high above the + rest as the Cypresse Tree above the low Shrubs.” +</p> +<p> + The church underwent a terrible despoliation at the hands of the Scots + in 1644; but more terrible still were the injuries it received, a little + more than a century later, from those who ought to have been its + friends. In the years 1784-7 there were many alterations made in the + building, during which almost all the old memorials and monuments + perished, or were removed; those which were not claimed by the living + representatives of the persons commemorated being ruthlessly sold, or + destroyed; and the brasses were disposed of as old metal. The modern + alterations and restorations have been more happy in their effect, and + one of the notable additions to the church is the beautiful carved oak + screen in the chancel, the work of Mr. Ralph Hedley. +</p> +<p> + There are many beautiful memorial windows in the church, and many + memorials in other forms to the various eminent North-country folk who + have been connected with Newcastle and its chief place of worship. The + Collingwood cenotaph is the most interesting of all; the brave Admiral’s + body, as is well known, lies beside that of his friend and commander, + Nelson, in St. Paul’s Cathedral, but this memorial of him is fittingly + placed in the Cathedral of his native town, within whose walls he + worshipped as a boy. There are two monuments by Flaxman—one of the Rev. + Hugh Moises, the famous master of the Grammar School when Collingwood + was a boy; and the other of Sir Matthew White Ridley, who died in 1813. + Of the newer monuments, those of Dr. Bruce, of Roman Wall fame, and of + the beloved and lamented Bishop Lloyd, are particularly fine. +</p> +<p> + Near the east end of the church, which was raised to the rank of a + Cathedral in 1881, is hung a large painting by Tintoretto, “Christ + washing the feet of the Disciples”; this was presented to the church by + Sir Matthew White Ridley in 1818. There are many more things of interest + in the Cathedral, but mention must be made of a wonderful MS. Bible, + incomplete, it is true, but beautifully written and illuminated by the + monks of Hexham, and other manuscript treasures carefully kept in the + care of the authorities. +</p> +<p> + The oldest church in the town is St. Andrew’s, supposed to have been + built by King David of Scotland at the time when that monarch was Lord + of Tynedale, in the reign of King Stephen. It suffered greatly in the + struggle with the Scots, whose cannon, planted on the Leazes, did it + great damage, and some of the fiercest fighting, at the final capture + of the town, took place close by, where a breach was made in the walls. + In such a battered condition was it left that the parish Registers tell + us that no baptism nor “sarmon” took place within its walls for a year + (1645). But a marriage took place, the persons wedded being Scots, who, + we learn from the same authority, “would pay nothing to the Church.” +</p> +<p> + In the church is buried Sir Adam de Athol, Lord of Jesmond, and Mary, + his wife. It is supposed that this Sir Adam gave the Town Moor to the + people of Newcastle, though this has been disputed. A fine picture of + the “Last Supper,” by Giordano, presented by Major Anderson in 1804, + hangs in the church. +</p> +<p> + St. John’s Church ranks next to St. Andrew’s in point of age; there are + fragments of Norman work in the building, and it is known to have been + standing in 1297. To-day the venerable pile, with its age worn stones, + stands out in sharper contrast to its environment than does any other + building in the town, surrounded as it is by modern shops and offices. + The memories it evokes, and the past for which it stands, are such as + the citizens of Newcastle will not willingly let die; and when, a few + years ago, a proposal was made for its removal, the proposition aroused + such a storm of popular feeling against it that it was incontinently + abandoned. +</p> +<p> + All Saints’ Church was built in 1789, on the site of an older building + which was in existence in 1296, and which became very unsafe. Here is + kept one of the most interesting monuments in the city—the monumental + brass which once covered the tomb of Roger Thornton, a wealthy merchant + of Newcastle, and a great benefactor to all the churches. He died in + 1429. He gave to St. Nicholas’ Church its great east window; but, on its + needing repair in 1860, it was removed entirely, and the present one, + in memory of Dr. Ions, inserted; and the only fragment left of + Thornton’s window is a small circular piece inset in a plain glass + window in the Cathedral. He gave much money to Hexham Abbey also. +</p> +<p> + Besides the famous men already mentioned in connection with the town, + Newcastle possesses other well-known names not a few. In the Middle + Ages, Duns Scotus, the man whose skill in argument earned for him the + title of “Doctor Subtilis,” owned Northumberland as his home, and + received his education in the monastery of the Grey Friars, which stood + near the head of the present Grey Street. He returned to this monastery + after some years of study at Oxford; in 1304 he was teaching divinity in + Paris. +</p> +<p> + Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London in the reign of Edward VI., whose + Northumbrian birthplace at Willimoteswick has already been noted, + received his early education at the Grammar School in Newcastle, and on + going to Cambridge was a student at Pembroke. We are told he was the + ablest man among the Reformers for piety, learning and judgment. As is + well known, he died at the stake in 1555. +</p> +<p> + William and Elizabeth Elstob, who lived in Newcastle at the end of the + seventeenth century, were learned Saxon scholars, but were so greatly in + advance of the education of their times that they met with little + encouragement or sympathy in their labours. +</p> +<p> + Charles Avison, the musician and composer, was organist of St. John’s in + 1736, and afterwards of St. Nicholas’. +</p> +<p> + It was he to whom Browning referred in the lines— +</p> +<pre> + “On the list + Of worthies, who by help of pipe or wire, + Expressed in sound rough rage or soft desire, + Thou, whilom of Newcastle, organist.” +</pre> +<p> + These lines have been carved on his tombstone in St. Andrew’s + churchyard. He is best known as the composer of the anthem “Sound the + loud timbrel.” +</p> +<p> + Mark Akenside, the poet, was born in Butcher Bank, now called after him + Akenside Hill. His chief work “The Pleasures of Imagination,” is not + often read now, but it enjoyed a considerable reputation in an age when + a stilted and formal style was looked upon as a true excellence in + poetry. +</p> +<p> + Charles Hutton, the mathematician, was born in Newcastle in 1737. He + began life as a pitman; but, receiving an injury to his arm, he turned + his attention to books, and taught in his native town for some years, + becoming later Professor of Mathematics in the Royal Military Academy at + Woolwich. +</p> +<p> + John Brand, the antiquary and historian of Newcastle, was born at + Washington, County Durham, but came to Newcastle as a child. After + attending the Grammar School, he went to Oxford, by the aid of his + master, the Rev. Hugh Moises. He was afterwards curate at the church of + St. Andrew. +</p> +<p> + Robert Morrison, the celebrated Chinese scholar, was born near Morpeth, + but his parents came to Newcastle when the boy was three years of age. + He died in China in 1834. +</p> +<p> + Thomas Miles Richardson, the well-known artist, was born in Newcastle in + 1784, and was at first a cabinetmaker, then master of St. Andrew’s Free + School, but finally gave up all other work to devote himself to his art. +</p> +<p> + Robert Stephenson went to school at Percy Street Academy, which for long + has ceased to exist. There he was taught by Mr. Bruce, and had for one + of his fellow-pupils the master’s son, John Collingwood Bruce, who + afterwards became so famous a teacher and antiquary. +</p> +<p> + Newcastle is not, as most southerners imagine, a dark and gloomy town of + unrelieved bricks and mortar, for, besides possessing many wide and + handsome streets, it has also several pretty parks, the most noteworthy + being the beautiful Jesmond Dene, one of the late Lord Armstrong’s + magnificent gifts to his native town. The Dene, together with the + Armstrong Park near it, lies on the course of the Ouseburn, which is + here a bright and sparkling stream, very different from the appearance + it presents by the time it empties its murky waters into the Tyne. + Besides these there are Heaton Park, the Leazes Park, with its lakes and + boats, Brandling Park, and others smaller than these; and last, but most + important of all, the Town Moor, a fine breezy space to the north of the + town, of more than 900 acres in extent. +</p> +<p> + Of statues and monuments Newcastle possesses some half-dozen, the finest + being “Grey’s Monument”—a household word in the town and familiarly + known as “The Monument.” It was erected at the junction of Grey Street + and Grainger Street in memory of Earl Grey of Howick, who was Prime + Minister at the passing of the Reform Bill. The figure of the Earl, by + Bailey, stands at the top of a lofty column, the height being 135 feet + to the top of the figure. There is a stairway within the column, by + which it can be ascended, and a magnificent view enjoyed from the top. +</p> +<p> + In an open space near the Central Station, between the <i>Chronicle</i> + Office and the Lit. and Phil., there is a fine statue of George + Stephenson, by the Northumbrian sculptor, Lough. It is a full length + representation of the great engineer, in bronze, with the figures of + four workmen, representing the chief industries of Tyneside, around the + pedestal—a miner, a smith, a navvy, and an engineer. At the head of + Northumberland Street, on the open space of the Haymarket, stands a + beautiful winged Victory on a tall column, crowning “Northumbria” + typified as a female figure at the foot of the column. This graceful and + striking memorial is the work of T. Eyre Macklin, and is in memory of + the officers and men of the North who fell in the Boer War of 1899-1902. + Two other noteworthy statues in the town are those of Lord Armstrong, + near the entrance to the Natural History Museum at Barras Bridge, and of + Joseph Cowen, in Westgate Road. +</p> + +<p class="center"> +THE KEEL ROW +</p> + +<pre> + As I came thro’ Sandgate, + Thro’ Sandgate, thro’ Sandgate, + As I came thro’ Sandgate, + I heard a lassie sing + “O weel may the keel row, + The keel row, the keel row, + Weel may the keel row + That my laddie’s in + + “O who is like my Johnnie, + Sae leish,<a href="#fn-5" name="fnref-5" id="fnref-5"><sup>[5]</sup></a> sae blithe, sae bonnie; + He’s foremost ’mang the mony + Keel lads o’ coaly Tyne + He’ll set and row sae tightly, + And in the dance sae sprightly + He’ll cut and shuffle lightly, + ’Tis true, were he not mine! + + “He has nae mair o’ learnin’ + Than tells his weekly earnin’, + Yet, right frae wrang discernin’, + Tho’ brave, nae bruiser he! + Tho’ he no worth a plack<a href="#fn-6" name="fnref-6" id="fnref-6"><sup>[6]</sup></a> is, + His ain coat on his back is; + And nane can say that black is + The white o’ Johnnie’s e’e + + He wears a blue bonnet, + Blue bonnet, blue bonnet, + He wears a blue bonnet, + And a dimple in his chin + O weel may the keel row, + The keel row, the keel row, + Weel may the keel row + That my laddie’s in.” +</pre> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-5" id="fn-5"></a> <a href="#fnref-5">[5]</a> +Leish = lithe, nimble. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-6" id="fn-6"></a> <a href="#fnref-6">[6]</a> +Plack = a small copper coin, worth about one-third of a penny. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus08"></a> +<img src="images/120.jpg" width="300" height="207" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap05"></a>CHAPTER V.<br/>ELSWICK AND ITS FOUNDER.</h2> + +<pre> + Sailed from the North of old + The strong sons of Odin; + Sailed in the Serpent ships, + “By hammer and hand” + Skilfully builded. + +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + Still in the North-country + Men keep their sea-cunning; + Still true the legend, + “By hammer and hand” + Elswick builds war-ships. + + —(<i>Northumbriensis</i>). +</pre> +<p> + For a mile and a quarter, along the north bank of the Tyne, stretch the + world-famed Elswick Works, which have grown to their present gigantic + proportions from the small beginnings of five and a half acres in 1847. + In that year two fields were purchased as a site for the new works about + to be started to make the hydraulic machinery which had been invented by + Mr. Armstrong. +</p> +<p> + In this undertaking he was backed by the wealth of several prominent + Newcastle citizens, who believed in the future of the new + inventions—Messrs. Addison Potter, George Cruddas, Armourer Donkin, and + Richard Lambert. At that time Elswick was a pretty country village some + distance outside of Newcastle, and the walk along the riverside between + the two places was a favourite one with the people of the town. In + midstream there was an island, where stood a little inn called the + “Countess of Coventry”; and on the island various sports were often + held, including horse-racing. +</p> +<p> + The price of the land for the new shops, which were soon built on the + green slopes above the Tyne, was paid to Mr. Hodgson Hind and Mr. + Richard Grainger; the latter of whom had intended, could he have carried + out his plans for the rebuilding of Newcastle, not to stop until he made + Elswick Hall the centre of the town. +</p> +<p> + Until the new shops were ready to begin work, some of Mr. Armstrong’s + hydraulic cranes were made by Mr. Watson at his works in the High + Bridge. +</p> +<p> + All the summer of 1847, the building went briskly on; and in the autumn + work was started. At first Mr. Armstrong had an office in Hood Street, + as he was superintending his machinery construction in High Bridge, as + well as the building operations at Elswick. On some of the early + notepaper of the firm there is, as the heading, a picture of Elswick as + it was then, showing the first shops, the little square building in + which were the offices, the green banks sloping down to the waterside, + and the island in the middle of the shallow stream, while the chimneys + and smoke of Newcastle are indicated in the remote background. Along the + riverside was the public footpath. +</p> +<p> + The first work done in the new shops was the making of Crane No. 6; and + amongst other early orders was one from the <i>Newcastle Chronicle</i>, for + hydraulic machinery to drive the printing press. The new machinery + rapidly grew in favour; and orders from mines, docks and railways poured + in to the Elswick firm, which soon extended its works. +</p> +<p> + In 1854, when the Crimean War broke out, Mr. Armstrong was requested to + devise some submarine mines which would clear the harbour of Sebastopol + of the Russian war-ships which had been sent there. He did so, but the + machinery was never used. +</p> +<p> + At the same time, in his leisure moments, he turned his attention to the + question of artillery. The guns in use at that time were very little + better than those which had been used during the Napoleonic wars; and + Mr. Armstrong devised a new one, which was made at his workshops. It was + a 3-pounder, complete with gun-carriage and mountings, and is still to + be seen at Elswick. +</p> +<p> + With the usual reluctance of Government departments to consider anything + new, the War Office of the day was slow to believe in the superiority of + the new field-piece; but when every fresh trial proved that superiority + to be beyond doubt, the gun was adopted. And then Mr. Armstrong showed + the large-minded generosity which was so marked a feature of his + character. Holding in his hand—as every man must, who possesses the + secret of a new and superior engine of destruction—the fate of nations, + to be decided at his will, and with the knowledge that other powers were + willing and eager to buy with any sum the skill of such an inventor, Mr. + Armstrong presented to the British Government, as a free gift, the + patents of his artillery; and he entered the Government service for a + time, as Engineer to the War Department, in order to give them the + benefit of his skill and special knowledge. +</p> +<p> + A knighthood was bestowed upon him, and he took up his new duties as Sir + William Armstrong. An Ordnance department was opened at Elswick, and the + Government promised a continuance of orders above those that the Arsenal + at Woolwich was able to fulfil. All went well for a time, but after some + years the connection between the Government and Elswick ceased; the + Ordnance and Engineering works were then amalgamated into one concern, + and Mr. George Rendel and Captain Noble—now Sir Andrew Noble, and one + of the greatest living authorities on explosives—were placed in charge + of the former. +</p> +<p> + Released from the agreement to make no guns except for the British + Government, Elswick was open to receive other orders, which now began to + roll in from all the world. Elswick prospered greatly, until suddenly + there came a check, in the shape of a strike for a nine hours day, in + 1871. After the strike had lasted for four and a half months, work was + resumed; but the old genial relationship between masters and men had + received a rude strain, and was never the same as before. +</p> +<p> + Shipbuilding had been taken up a year or two before this, but the + earliest vessels were built to their order in Mr. Mitchell’s yard at + Walker. The first one was a small gunboat, the “Staunch,” built for the + Admiralty. In later years the Walker ship-yard was united to the Elswick + enterprises, and a ship-yard at the latter place was also opened. +</p> +<p> + Meantime, Captain Noble had been experimenting further in artillery, and + in 1877 another and better type of gun was produced. It was adopted by + the Government, and all guns since then have been modifications, more or + less, of this type. In 1876 the famous hundred-ton gun for Italy was + made, and was taken on board the “Europa” to be carried to her + destination; this vessel being the first to pass the newly-finished + Swing Bridge, another outcome of the inventive genius of the head of the + Elswick firm. The gun, which was the largest in the world at that time, + was lowered into the “Europa” by the largest pair of “sheer-legs” in + existence, and was lifted out again at Spezzia by the largest hydraulic + crane of that day, and all these were the work of the Elswick firm. +</p> +<p> + Soon after this the firm became Sir W.G. Armstrong, Mitchell, and Co.; + and in consequence of the continued increase of business, it became + necessary to open Steel Works also. This is one of the most notable + features of the Elswick works; the wonders of ancient magicians pale + into insignificance before the marvels of this department, and no + Eastern Genius could accomplish such seemingly impossible feats with + greater ease than do the workmen of Elswick. +</p> +<p> + The works continued to grow still further, and soon Elswick was building + cruisers for China, for Italy (where works at Pozzuoli—the ancient + Puteoli—were opened), for Russia, Chili, and Japan. Tynesiders took a + special interest in the progress of the Japanese wars, for so many of + that country’s battleships had their birth on the banks of the river at + Elswick, and Japanese sailors became a familiar sight in Newcastle + streets. Groups of strange faces from alien lands are periodically seen + in our midst, and met with again and again for some time; then one day + there is a launch at Elswick, and shortly afterwards all the strange + faces disappear. They have gathered together from their various quarters + in the town, and manning their new cruiser, have sailed away to their + own land, and Newcastle streets know them no more; but, later, + Tynesiders read in their newspapers of the deeds done on the vessels + which they have sent forth to the world. +</p> +<p> + The ice-breaker “Ermack” is one of the firm’s most notable achievements, + the vessel having been built and designed in their Walker yard, to the + order of the Czar of Russia, in 1898, for the purpose of breaking up + ice-floes in the northern seas, and more especially for keeping open a + route across the great lakes of Siberia. +</p> +<p> + The Elswick firm became Armstrong, Whitworth and Co., Ltd., in 1897, + which was also the year of another great strike; and two years later, a + disastrous fire burned down three of their shops, throwing two thousand + men temporarily out of employment. Still the works continued to grow, + and business to increase, until, instead of the five and a half acres + originally purchased, the Company’s works, in 1900, covered two hundred + and thirty acres, and the number of men on the pay-roll was over + 25,000—that is, sufficient with their families to people a town three + times the size of Hexham. And the scope and extent of these works are + extending, and yet extending; and now Elswick and Scotswood form an + uninterrupted line of closely-packed dwellings, which stretch without a + break from Newcastle, and make a background for the immense works on the + river shore; and one would look in vain for any signs of the pretty + country lanes and village of sixty years ago. +</p> +<p> + The founder of this great enterprise, in the early days of the Company, + built for his workpeople schools, library, and reading rooms, as well as + dwellings, and met them personally at their social gatherings and + entertainments—generally provided by himself; but the increasing size + of the concern, the excellence and capability, amounting to genius, of + the various heads of departments chosen by him, and his own increasing + years and failing health, led to his gradual withdrawal from personal + attendance at Elswick. The last time he appeared there officially was + when the King of Siam visited the works in 1897. +</p> +<p> + One who knew him well has written of him, “His mind was at the same time + original and strictly practical; he noticed with a penetrating + observation, and drew conclusions with intuitive genius. Abstract + speculation had no charm for him; he never cherished wild dreams or + extravagant ideas. But if his conception was thus wisely restricted, his + execution of an idea was unrivalled in its thoroughness. Whether he was + founding an industrial establishment, or building a house, or making a + road, the hand of the man is quite unmistakable. There is the same solid + basis, the same enduring superstructure. Every stone that is laid at + Cragside or Bamburgh seems to be stamped as it were with the impression + of his great personality, and the thoroughness of his work.” All his + life long, the thoroughness with which he was able to concentrate his + mind on the one subject which occupied it at the time, was a marked + feature of Lord Armstrong’s character. +</p> +<p> + In the early period of his career, while he was still in a solicitor’s + office, and when the study of hydraulics was absorbing all his leisure + hours, he was quizzically said to have “water on the brain.” Electrical + problems also engaged his attention, and in 1844 he lectured at the Lit. + and Phil. rooms on his hydro-electric machine, on which occasion the + lecture room was so tightly packed that he had to get in through the + window. In the following year he explained to the same society his + hydraulic experiments and achievements; in 1846 he was elected a Fellow + of the Royal Society; and the next summer, 1847, saw the Elswick Works + begun. +</p> +<p> + It is difficult to realize the fact, brought home to us on looking at + dates like these, that Lord Armstrong and Robert Stephenson were + contemporaries, and that both great engineers were engaged at the same + time on the works which were to bring them lasting fame. The life and + work of Robert Stephenson seem so remote, so much a part of bygone + history, that it strikes the mind with an unexpected shock to realise + that here is a life which began about the same time, yet has lasted + until quite recent years; for Lord Armstrong’s long and successful + career only closed with the closing days of the nineteenth century. +</p> +<p> + In the later years of his life he was greatly interested in repairing + and partly re-building the historic castle of Bamburgh, which Mr. + Freeman calls “the cradle of our race,” and which Lord Armstrong + purchased from Lord Crewe’s Trustees. Of his personal character, the + writer above quoted says, “Apart from his intellectual gifts, Lord + Armstrong’s character was that of a great man. His unaffected modesty + was as attractive as his broad-minded charity. In business transactions, + he was the soul of integrity and honour, while in private life his mind + was far too large to regard accumulated wealth with any excessive + affection. He both spent his money freely and gave it away freely. His + benefactions to Newcastle were princely, and his public munificence was + fit to rank with that of any philanthropist of his time.” +</p> +<p> + Princely, indeed, were his gifts to his native town, as the list of them + will show; they embraced either large contributions to, or the entire + gift of, Jesmond Dene, the Armstrong Park, the Lecture Theatre of the + Literary and Philosophical Society, St. Cuthbert’s Church, the + Cathedral, St. Stephen’s Church, the Infirmary, the Deaf and Dumb + Institution, the Children’s Hospital, the Elswick Schools, Elswick + Mechanics’ Institute, the Convalescent Home at Whitley Bay, the Hancock + Museum—to which he and Lady Armstrong contributed a valuable collection + of shells, and £11,500 in money—the Armstrong Bridge, the Armstrong + College, and the Bishopric Endowment Fund. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap06"></a>CHAPTER VI.<br/>THE CHEVIOTS.</h2> + +<p> + From the crowded, bustling scenes of Tyneside to the solitude of the + Cheviot Hills is a “far cry,” even farther mentally than in actual tale + of miles. Yet the two are linked by the same stream, which begins life + as a brawling Cheviot burn, having for its fellows the head waters of + the Rede, the Coquet, and the Till, with the scores of little dancing + rills that feed them. +</p> +<p> + Nowhere in this land of swelling hills and grassy fields can one get out + of either sight or sound of running water. Every little dip in the hills + has its watercourse, every vale its broader stream, and the pleasant + sound of their murmurings and sweet babbling fills in the background of + every remembrance of days spent upon the green slopes of the Cheviots. + You may hear in their tones, if you listen, the shrill chatter and + laughter of children, soft cooing voices, and the deeper notes of + manhood, and might fancy, did not your sight contradict the fact, that + you were close to a goodly company, whose words met your ear, but whose + magic language you could not understand. +</p> +<p> + One little burn of my acquaintance, which runs through field and dell to + join the Till, I have hearkened to again and again for hours, unable to + break away from the spell of its ever-varying, yet constant music—a + sort of wilder, sweeter version of Mendelssohn’s Duetto, with the voices + of Knight and Lady alternating and intermingling amidst a rippling + current of clear bell-like undertones. +</p> +<p> + Down from Cheviot itself, the lovely little Colledge Water splashes its + way, issuing from the wild ravine called the Henhole, where the cliffs + on each side of the rocky gorge rise in some places to a height of more + than two hundred feet. Concerning this ravine, there is a legend that a + party of hunters, long ages ago, were deer-stalking in Cheviot Forest, + when on reaching the Henhole their ears were greeted by the most + ravishing music they had ever heard. Allured by the enchanting sounds, + they followed the music into the ravine, where they disappeared, and + were never again seen. +</p> +<p> + The range of the Cheviot Hills stretches for about twenty-two miles + along the north-west border of Northumberland; and as the width of the + range is, roughly speaking, twenty-one miles, we have a tract of over + three hundred square miles of rolling, grassy, and heath-clad hills, of + which about one-third is over the Scottish border in Roxburghshire. The + giants of the range, The Cheviot (2,676 feet high), Cairn Hill (2,545 + feet), and the striking cone of Hedgehope (2,348 feet), are all near to + each other on Northumbrian soil, a few miles south-west of Wooler, which + is a most convenient starting place for a visit to any part of the + Cheviots, as the Alnwick and Cornhill Railway brings within easy reach + the heights which lie still farther north. +</p> +<p> + The quiet little market town lies pleasantly among green meadows almost + at the foot of the Cheviots; its low substantial stone houses, with few + gardens in front, give the place a somewhat monotonous appearance, but + the newer streets try to make amends by blossoming out into brilliant + flower-plots in summer-time. Still, one would not quarrel with the older + buildings; solid and unpretentious, they must look much the same as in + the days of Border turmoil, when the first requisite in house or town + was strength, not beauty. +</p> +<p> + Near to Wooler are many interesting places; within the limits of quite a + short stroll one may visit the Pin Well, a wishing well of which there + are so many examples to be found wherever one may travel; the King’s + Chair, a porphyry crag on the hill above the Pin Well; Maiden Castle, + or, less euphoniously, Kettles Camp, an ancient British encampment on + the same hill, the Kettles being pot-like cavities in the ravines + surrounding it; and the Cup and Saucer Camp, just half a mile distant + from Wooler. The Golf Course is now laid out on these same heights. +</p> +<p> + To reach the Cheviots from Wooler, the most usual way is by the + beautiful glen in which lies Langleeford. The bright streamlet known as + the Wooler Water runs through it from Cheviot on its way to the town + from which it has taken its present name; formerly it was known as + Caldgate Burn. It was at Langleeford that Sir Walter Scott stayed, as a + youth, in 1791, with his uncle, after they had vainly attempted to find + accommodation in Wooler. Here they rode, fished, shot, walked, and drank + the goat’s whey for which the district was famous in those days and for + long afterwards. +</p> +<p> + Cheviot itself, or “The Muckle Cheviot,” is a huge cumbrous-looking + mass, with rounded sides and flat top, boggy and treacherous, where, + nevertheless, many wild berries brighten the marshy flats in their + season. The name “Cheviot” is said to mean “Snowy Ridge” and well does + this highest summit of the range merit the name, for on its marshy top + and in the rocky chasms of Henhole and Bazzle, the winter’s snow often + lies until far into the summer. Down through the weird and fairy-haunted + cleft of Henhole, as we have seen, the little brown stream of Colledge + Water splashes its way, breaking into golden foam between mossy banks as + it reaches the outlet, and turns northward to join the Till. +</p> +<p> + This little burn is one of the prettiest of mountain streams; and in the + district surrounding it are perhaps more points of interest than any + other stream of such inconsiderable dimensions can show, saving only its + neighbour, the Till. The whole of the surrounding country, wild, lonely, + and romantic, teems with memories and reminders of the past. Sir Walter + Scott, while on the visit already referred to, found an additional + pleasure in the presence of so many relics of ancient days in the + neighbourhood. “Each hill,” he wrote to a friend, “is crowned with a + tower, or camp, or cairn, and in no situation can you be near more + fields of battle.” +</p> +<p> + Indeed, the whole district of the Cheviots, and the lower lines of + swelling hills into which the land subsides as it nears the sea, is + crowded with the memorials of an earlier race; from every hill-top and + rocky height they speak with tantalising half-revelations of that race + which the Romans found here when their galleys brought them to the land + which was to them Ultima Thule. No convincing explanation has yet been + found of the concentric circular markings, with radiating grooves from + the cup-shaped hollow in the middle, which are scored on the rocks + wherever traces of an ancient camp are found; and the numbers of these + traces are proof that this district was once a very thickly populated + part of Britain. +</p> +<p> + And when Angle and Saxon were driving the early inhabitants before them, + westward and southward, these hills and valleys still sheltered a + considerable population; and Bede tells us of a royal residence not far + away, at the foot of the well known Yeavering Bell, one of the more + important hills of the range. It rises to a height of more than 1,100 + feet, and then abruptly ends in a wide, almost level top, grass-grown + and boulder-strewn, and crowned near the centre with a roughly-piled + cairn. The ancient name of Yeavering Bell, as given by Bede in his + account of the labours of St. Paulinus, was Ad-gefrin. +</p> +<p> + To recall the days when King Edwin and his queen, Ethelburga, came here + from the royal city of Bamburgh, we must go back to a time nearly forty + years after the Bernician chieftain, Ida, established himself in that + rocky fortress, from whence he ruled a district roughly corresponding to + the present counties of Durham and Northumberland, and known as + Bernicia. One of Ida’s successors, Ethelric, overcame the tribe of + Angles then established in the neighbouring district of Deira—the + Yorkshire of to-day. His successor, Ethelfrith, ruled over the united + district, and married the daughter of Ella, the vanquished chieftain. + Her brother, Edwin, he drove into exile, and the young prince found + refuge at the court of Redwald of East Anglia, where he remained for + some years. +</p> +<p> + Redwald’s friendship, however, does not seem to have been above + suspicion, for we find that Ethelfrith’s bribe had on one occasion + nearly induced him to give up his guest, whose life, however, was saved + by Redwald’s wife who turned her husband from his purpose. In his exile + the thoughts of the young prince often turned towards his own land; and, + once, as he sat brooding over his misfortunes, he saw in a vision one + who came and spoke comforting words to him, saying that he should yet be + king and that his reign should be long and glorious. “And if one should + come to thee and repeat this sign,” said the stranger, laying his right + hand on Edwin’s head “wouldst thou hearken to his rede?” Edwin gave his + word, and the vision fled. Some little time after this, Ethelfrith of + Northumbria, as the united districts were now called, fell in battle + against Redwald, and Edwin, returning northward, became ruler of + Northumbria, the sons of Ethelfrith fleeing in their turn before the new + king. Edwin wedded, as his second wife, Ethelburga, daughter of that + king of Kent in whose days Augustine came to England; and being a + Christian princess, she brought with her a priest to her new home in the + north. The priest’s name was Paulinus; and one day he went to the King + and, placing his right hand on Edwin’s head, asked if he knew that sign. + Edwin remembered, and redeemed his promise. He hearkened to the teaching + of the earnest monk, with the result that before long he and his court + were baptised by Paulinus, Edwin’s little daughter, it is said, being + the first to receive the sacred rite. +</p> +<p> + This was at York; and when the king and queen went to the royal city of + Bamburgh, or to their country dwelling at the foot of the Cheviots, + Paulinus accompanied them; and wherever he went, he laboured to teach + the North-country Angles and Saxons the gospel of Christ. This country + dwelling, to which came Paulinus and his royal friends, was Ad-gefrin, + or Yeavering; and though it is extremely unlikely that any traces of it + could remain until our day, yet tradition points out a fragment of an + old building still standing there, as a remnant of the royal residence. +</p> +<p> + In the region of Kirknewton, a pretty little village to the north-west + of Yeavering, where Colledge Water joins the Glen, which gives its name + to the romantic district of Glendale, Paulinus baptised many hundreds of + Edwin’s people; and the name of Pallinsburn—which is now confined to a + house at some little distance from the burn—enshrines the memory of + yet another scene of the labours of the indefatigable monk. +</p> +<p> + If we stand on the wind-swept top of Yeavering Bell, we are surrounded + by the evidences of still more remote days, for the whole of the summit + was once a fortified camp of the ancient Britons. A roughly-piled, but + massive wall, now almost all broken down, surrounded it, and within its + grass-grown oval are two additional walls, at the east and the west ends + of the enclosure, and many hut-circles, evidences of the rude dwellings + of our remote ancestors. Excavations here many years ago brought to + light a jasper ball, some fragments of a coarse kind of pottery, and + some oaken armlets. Evidently the enclosure on the summit was intended + to be a last resort in time of danger, for traces of many huts are to be + found outside its encircling wall, which is surrounded by a ditch and a + low rampart of earth. At the east end, where the porphyry crag juts out + from the hilltop to a height of about twenty feet, full advantage has + been taken of this naturally strong position. +</p> +<p> + Now, instead of advancing foes, the spreading heather climbs steadily up + the sloping sides of this ancient stronghold, and invades the central + enclosure at its will; a few hardy sheep that have wandered up here from + the richer pastures below, and now and again a stray tourist, anxious to + make acquaintance at first hand with one of the more famous of the + Cheviot heights, and more than satisfied with the glorious view spread + out before him, are all that disturb the brooding peace of its grassy + solitudes. Up here the wind blows keenly around us with an exhilarating + freshness in its breath, and we think regretfully of coats left behind + at the shepherd’s hospitable dwelling, which, with the rest of the + cottages clustering round the old farm house, lies sunning itself in the + warm glow of the September afternoon, in the green fields at the foot + of the sheltering hills. +</p> +<p> + Looking southward now, up the stream, there is stretching away to the + left the long ridge of Newton Tor, and away behind it Great Hetha and + Little Hetha; while half-way down the vale the Colledge Water tumbles + over the rocks at Hethpoole Linn (or Heathpool, as the modern rendering + has it), breaking into amber spray deep down beneath overhanging trees + and boulders and golden bracken. +</p> +<p> + This brings our thoughts to days comparatively modern, for when Admiral + Collingwood was raised to the peerage of Great Britain, it was by the + title of “Baron Collingwood of Caldburn and Hethpoole, in the county of + Northumberland.” The brave Admiral was fond of planting an oak tree + whenever he found an opportunity, to secure the continuance of those + wooden walls which in his hands, and in those of his life-long friend, + Nelson, had proved such a sure defence to his country. In a letter dated + March, 1806, he wrote to his wife, “I wish some parts of Hethpoole could + be selected for plantations of larch, oak, and beech, where the ground + could best be spared. Even the sides of a bleak hill would grow larch + and fir.” In another letter some months later he told her what + “agreeable news” it was to hear that she was taking care of his oaks, + and planting some at Hethpoole; and saying that if he ever returned he + would plant a good deal there; adding, however, that he feared before + that could take place both he and Lady Collingwood might themselves be + planted in the churchyard beneath some old yew tree. +</p> +<p> + Hethpoole presents us with a link not only with history, but with + romance as well. An ivied ruin near at hand, with walls of enormous + strength, is said to be the remains of the castle where the final + tragedy in “The Hermit of Warkworth” took place. Here, it is said, the + distracted lover came upon his lady and his brother, who had at that + moment effected her escape, and not recognising the youth, rushed upon + the pair with drawn sword, only to discover too late his terrible + mistake, and lose both brother and bride—for the lady received a mortal + wound in trying to save her rescuer. +</p> +<p> + Turning our eyes now northward across the Glen from Yeavering Bell, we + are looking towards Coupland Castle, and the fact that it was built so + late as the reign of James I. bears eloquent testimony to the insecurity + of life and property on the Borders even at that period. The barony + either gave its name to, or took its name from, a well-known + Northumbrian family, of which one of the most prominent members was that + Sir John de Coupland who succeeded in capturing David of Scotland at the + battle of Neville’s Cross—not, however, before he had lost some of his + teeth by a blow from the mailed fist of that doughty monarch! +</p> +<p> + Beyond Coupland Castle we look across Milfield Plain lying in the angle + formed by the meeting of the Glen with the deep and sullen Till, whose + slow windings can be traced as it gleams at intervals between the + undulations of the lower hills through which it flows northwestward to + the Tweed. Though a brisk and sparkling stream in certain parts of its + course, the general characteristics of the Till are well borne out by + the lines— +</p> +<pre> + Tweed says to Till + “What gars ye rin sae still?” + Till says to Tweed + “Though ye rin wi’ speed + And I rin slaw; + Where ye droon ae man + I droon twa.” +</pre> +<p> + There is yet more of historical and traditional interest to note in this + view from the top of Yeavering Bell, which, as I saw it last, lay warm + in the glow of a September afternoon. Nennius is our authority for + stating that on Milfield Plain took place one of the great conflicts in + which King Arthur +</p> +<pre> + “Fought, and in twelve great battles overcame + The heathen hordes, and made a realm, and reigned” +</pre> +<p> + And, as we gazed, the level spaces seemed peopled once more with + charging knights, flashing sword and swinging battle-axe, and the + intervening centuries dropped away, and Arthur’s call to battle for “our + fair father Christ,” seemed curiously befitting that romantic scene. + But, as the shadows lengthened, and the streams took on a golden glow in + the rays of the September sun, then slowly setting, “the tumult and the + shouting of the captains” died away, and the figure of an earnest monk + seemed to stand by the riverside, with prince and serf, peasant and + warrior for his audience, and the cold bright waters of the Glen + dripping from his hand, as he enrolled one after another into the ranks + of an army mightier than the hosts of Arthur or Edwin. +</p> +<p> + Milfield again emerges into notice out of the obscurity of those dark + ages, in the days of the Bernician kings who succeeded Edwin; for Bede + tells us that “This town (Ad-gefrin) under the following kings, was + abandoned, and another was built instead of it at a place called + Melmin,” now Milfield. Nothing, however, remains here of the buildings + which once sheltered the royal Saxons and their court. In later days, + Milfield has a melancholy interest attaching to it from its connection + with the battle of Flodden; for, on the heights above, King James fixed + his camp, in the hope that Surrey would lead his troops across the plain + below. Of the other considerable heights of the Cheviot range, Carter + Fell and Peel Fell are the best known; they both lie right on the border + line of England and Scotland, between the North Tyne and the Rede Water. + As we have already seen, the men of Tynedale and Redesdale bore a + reputation for lawlessness in the time of the Border “Moss-trooping” + days, and until nearly the end of the eighteenth century the tradesmen + and guilds of Newcastle would take no apprentice who hailed from either + of these dales. The tracks and passes between the hills, once alive with + frequent foray and wild pursuit, are now silent and solitary but for the + occasional passing of a shepherd or farmer, and the flocks of sheep + grazing as they move slowly up the hillsides. A quaint survival of the + remembrances of those days was unexpectedly brought before me one day. A + child presented me with a bunch of cotton-grass, gathered on the moors + not far from the Roman-Wall. I asked if she knew what they were that she + had brought. “Moss-troopers,” she replied. +</p> +<p> + Many of the Cheviot heights bear most suggestive and interesting + names, such as Cushat<a href="#fn-7" name="fnref-7" + id="fnref-7"><sup>[7]</sup></a> Law, Kelpie<a href="#fn-8" + name="fnref-8" id="fnref-8"><sup>[8]</sup></a> Strand, Earl’s Seat, + Stot<a href="#fn-9" name="fnref-9" id="fnref-9"><sup>[9]</sup></a> + Crags, Deer Play, Wether Lair, Bloodybushedge, Monkside, etc., etc. +</p> + + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-7" id="fn-7"></a> <a href="#fnref-7">[7]</a> +Cushat = a wood-pigeon. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-8" id="fn-8"></a> <a href="#fnref-8">[8]</a> +Kelpie = a water-witch. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-9" id="fn-9"></a> <a href="#fnref-9">[9]</a> +Stot = a bullock. +</p> + +<p> + In these lonely wilds, which occupy all the northwest of the county, one + may travel all day and meet with no living thing save the birds of the + air, and a few shy, wild creatures of the moorlands; curve after curve, + the rounded hills stretch away into the distance, grass-grown or + heatherclad, with occasional peat-mosses; above is the “grey gleaming + sky,” and, all around, a stillness as of vast untrodden wastes, and a + sense of solitude out of all proportion to the actual extent of this + lonely region. The fascination of it, however, admits of no denial, even + on the part of those newly making its acquaintance; while those who in + childhood or youth roam over its wild fells, and feel the spell of its + brooding mystery, retain in their hearts for all time an unfading + remembrance of its magic charm. +</p> +<pre> + COLLEDGE WATER. +</pre> +<pre> + My sire is the stooping Cheviot mist, + My mother the heath in her purple train; + And every flower on her gown I’ve kissed + Over and over and over again. + + The secret ways of the hills are mine, + I know where the wandering moor-fowl nest; + And up where the wet grey glidders<a href="#fn-10" name="fnref-10" id="fnref-10"><sup>[10]</sup></a> shine + I know where the roving foxes rest. + + I know what the wind is wailing for + As it searches hollow and hag and peak; + And, riding restless on Newton Tor, + I know what the questing shadows seek. + + I know the tale that the brown bees tell, + And they tell it to me with a raider’s pride, + As, drunk with the cups of Yeavering Bell, + They stagger home from the English side. + + I know the secrets of haugh and hill; + But sacred and safe they rest with me, + Till I hide them deep in the heart of Till, + To be taken to Tweed and the open sea. + + —<i>Will. H. Ogilvie</i>. + + BY PERMISSION OF MESSRS. W. AND R. CHAMBERS +</pre> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-10" id="fn-10"></a> <a href="#fnref-10">[10]</a> +Glidders = Patches of loose stones on the hillside. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap07"></a>CHAPTER VII.<br/>THE ROMAN WALL.</h2> + +<pre> + “Take these flowers, which, purple waving, + On the ruined rampart grew, + Where, the sons of Freedom braving, + Rome’s imperial standard flew. + Warriors from the breach of danger + Pluck no longer laurels there; + They but yield the passing stranger + Wild-flower wreaths for Beauty’s hair.” + —<i>Sir Walter Scott.</i> + (Lines written for a young lady’s album.) +</pre> +<p> + Of all the abundance of treasure which Northumberland possesses, from a + historical point of view—of all its wealth of interesting relics of + bygone days—ancient abbey, grim fortress, menhir and monolith, camp and + tumulus—none grips the imagination as does the sight of that unswerving + line which pursues its way over hill and hollow, from the eastern to the + western shores of the north-land, visible emblem, after more than a + thousand years, of the far-flung arm of Imperial Rome. +</p> +<p> + From Wallsend on the Tyne to Bowness on the Solway Firth it strode + triumphantly across the land; even now in its decay it remains a + splendid monument to that mighty nation’s genius for having and holding + the uttermost parts of the earth that came within their ken. As was + inevitable, after the lapse of nearly eighteen centuries the great work + is everywhere in a ruinous condition, and in many places, especially at + its eastern end, has disappeared altogether; but not only can its course + be traced by various evidences, but it was actually standing within + comparatively recent years. As lately as the year 1800—lately, that is, + compared with the date of its building—its existence at Byker was + referred to in a magazine of the period. Now nothing is to be seen of it + excepting a few stones here and there, for many miles from Wallsend; but + the highroad westward from Newcastle, by Westgate Road, as is well + known, follows the course of the Wall for nearly twenty miles. But + farther west we may walk along the uneven, broken surface of the mighty + rampart, or climb down into the broad and deep fosse which lies closely + against it along its northern side, without troubling ourselves with the + arguments and uncertainties of antiquaries, who have by no means decided + on what was the original function of the Wall, who was its real builder, + why and when the earthen walls and fosse which accompany it on the south + were wrought, and many other smaller controversial points, which afford + endless matter for speculation and discussion. +</p> +<p> + Early references to the Wall show that our forefathers knew it as the + Picts’ Wall; it is now generally referred to as the Wall of Hadrian, the + general concensus of opinion yielding to that indefatigable ruler the + credit of having wrought the mighty work. Whether built originally as a + frontier line of defence or not, opinions are not agreed; but it is very + certain that the Wall afforded the only secure foothold in the North to + the Romans for well-nigh two centuries of hostility from the restless + Brigantes to the southward, and the Picts and Scots to the north; and + for another century or so after their southern neighbours had become + friendly and peaceful, it still remained a substantial bulwark against + the northern barbarians. +</p> +<p> + Throughout the whole of its length it steadily holds the line of the + highest ridges in its course, climbing up slopes and dipping down into + the intervening hollows with the least possible deviation from its + onward course. The most interesting, because most complete, portion of + the Wall, is that in the neighbourhood of the three loughs—Broomlee, + Greenlee, and Crag Loughs, which, with Grindon Lough to the south of the + Wall, boast the name of the Northumberland Lakes. On this portion of the + wall is situated the large Roman station of Borcovicus, from which we + have gained a great deal of our information as to what the life of the + garrisons on this lonely outpost of Empire was like. +</p> +<p> + The station is situated on hilly ground, which slopes gently to the + south, and is nearly five acres in extent. On entering the eastern + gateway one cannot but experience a sudden thrill on seeing the deep + grooves worn in the stone by the passing and repassing of Roman cart and + chariot wheels. That mute witness of the daily traffic of the soldiery + in those long-past centuries speaks with a most intimate note to us who + eighteen hundred years afterwards come to look upon the place of their + habitation. The station itself is of the usual shape of the Roman towns + on the course of the Wall—oblong, with rounded corners. The greatest + length lies east and west, in a line with the Wall; and two broad + streets crossing each other at right angles lead from the north to the + south, and from the east to the western gateways. Each of the four was + originally a double gateway; but in every case one half of it has been + closed up, no doubt when the garrison was declining in numbers, and the + attacks of the enemy were increasing in severity. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus09"></a> +<a href="images/144.jpg"> +<img src="images/144.jpg" width="600" height="384" alt="Illustration: +North Gateway, Housesteads and Roman Wall." /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>North Gateway, Housesteads and Roman Wall.</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + Considerable portions of the guard-chambers, one at each side of each + gateway, still remain; and near one of them was found a huge stone + trough, its edges deeply worn by, apparently, the frequent + sharpening of knives upon it. Its use has not been determined; Dr. Bruce + tells us that one of the men engaged in the work of excavation gave it + as his firm opinion that the Romans used it to wash their Scotch + prisoners in! The buildings of the little town—a row of houses against + the western wall, two large buildings near the centre of the camp, with + smaller chambers to the east of them—in which the garrison lived, + worked, and stored their supplies, are still quite plainly to be traced, + although the walls are only three or four courses high in most places, + and of the pillars the broken bases are almost all that remain. +</p> +<p> + A considerable number of people dwelt outside the walls of this, as of + all the stations, sheltering under its walls, and relying on the + protection of its garrison; the slope to the southward of Borcovicus + shows many traces of buildings scattered all over it. On the northern + side, the steep hill, massive masonry, and deep fosse would seem to have + offered well-nigh insuperable difficulties to an attacking force such as + then could be brought against the camp; yet not only here, but in all + the stations whose remains yet survive, there is unmistakable evidence + that more than once has the garrison been driven out by a victorious + foe, to re-enter and occupy it again at a later period. And when we + consider that the Wall and its forts were garrisoned by the Romans for a + period extending over nearly three centuries, a period corresponding to + the time from the reign of James I. to the present day, it becomes a + matter of wonder, not that such was the case, but that such occurrences + were not more frequent than the evidences seem to declare. +</p> +<p> + In spite of all the hard fighting, however, the recreations of lighter + hours would seem not to have been forgotten; on the north of the wall is + a circular hollow in the ground, evidently a little amphitheatre, in + which doubtless many a captive Briton and Pict played his part. On a + little rise to the southward, called Chapel Hill, stood the temple where + the garrison paid its vows to the various deities of its worship. Many + remarkably fine altars found on this and other sites have been + preserved, either at the fine museum at The Chesters, or at the Black + Gate in Newcastle. One of the most striking is the altar to Mithras, the + Persian sun-god, found in a cave near the camp, evidently constructed + for the celebration of the rites connected with the worship of Mithras. + The altar shows the god coming out of an egg, and surrounded by an oval + on which are carved the signs of the Zodiac. +</p> +<p> + The Teutonic element in the garrison is represented by the altars to + Mars Thingsus, the discovery of which caused great interest in Germany, + and by the altars to the Deae Matres—the mother-goddesses, whose carved + figures are shown seated, fully draped, and holding baskets of fruits on + their knees. They are generally found in sets of three; but + unfortunately they have been much mutilated, and all the examples + remaining are headless. The Deae Matres would seem to correspond in some + degree to the Roman Ceres and the Greek Demeter, the bountiful givers of + the fruits of the earth. The majority of the altars found are, as was to + be expected, dedicated to the deities of Rome; chiefly, as shown by the + constantly recurring I.O.M.—<i>Jovi optimo maximo</i>—to “Jupiter, the best + and greatest.” The varying inscriptions which follow as reasons for + their erection as votive offerings give us glimpses of the life in these + communities clearer than those afforded by anything else. And as most, + if not all, of our knowledge concerning the details of the Roman + occupation of the north-country has to be obtained from the inscriptions + which the garrisons left behind them, the inscribed stones as well as + the altars are of the greatest possible interest and value. One such + stone, found at the Borcovicus mile-castle, states that “the Second + Legion, the August (erected this at the command of) Aulus Platorius + Nepos, Legate and Propraetor, in honour of the Emperor Caesar Trajanus + Hadrianus Augustus.” +</p> +<p> + At “Cuddy’s” (Cuthbert’s) Crag near Borcovicus is one of the most + picturesque bits of scenery to be found on the whole course of the Wall. + My first acquaintance with it was made on a day of grey mist and + drizzling rain, which completely hid any view of the surrounding + country, and of necessity confined our attention to the stones (and wet + grass!) immediately beneath our feet. But another visit was on a day of + wind and sunshine, and in the company of a group of light-hearted + students. We explored the ruins of Borcovicus, walked along the broad + and broken top of the Wall, and climbed up hill and down dale with it + under the pleasantest conditions, if a trifle breezy on the heights. + June was at her traditional best, which she does not often vouchsafe to + show us; flowers waved all around, amongst the grass and in the crannies + between the stones, and more than once the lines at the head of this + chapter were quoted by one to another. Again and again our progress was + stayed while we admired the glorious view spread out all around, but + especially was this the case at Cuddy’s Crag. We looked westward over + Crag Lough, its usually dark waters flashing in the afternoon sun; the + three Loughs were all within view; away to the southward, beyond + Barcombe Hill, and the site of Vindolana, Langley Castle could be seen, + “standing four-square to all the winds that blew”; and further away + again, beyond the valley of the South Tyne, to the southwest the faint + outlines of Crossfell and Skiddaw. Northward it was quite easy to + imagine oneself looking out over the Picts’ country still, so far do + the moorlands stretch, and so few are the signs of habitation. Rolling + ridges stretch northward, wave upon wave, clothed with grass and + heather, amongst which Parnesius and Pertinax went hunting with little + Allo the Pict; to the northeast the heights of Simonside showed; and far + beyond them, though more to the westward, the rounded summits of the + Cheviots lay on the horizon. +</p> +<p> + A short distance westward from the Crag is Hot Bank farmhouse, a place + which most visitors to the Wall remember with grateful feelings; for + what is more refreshing, after a long tramp, than a farmhouse cup of tea + accompanied by that most appetising of Northumbrian dainties, hot girdle + cakes! The Visitors’ Book at Hot Bank is a “civil list” of all the most + learned and noted names in Great Britain, and many outside its shores, + together with legions of humbler folk. In this it resembles the one at + Cilurnum, which is the only other considerable station along the line of + the Wall in Northumberland. +</p> +<p> + This station of Cilurnum, or Chesters, is a little over five acres in + extent, and is quite near to Chollerford station on the North British + Railway. To describe Cilurnum in detail, and the interesting museum + connected with it, filled with a wonderful collection of objects found + on the line of the Wall, would require a book to deal with that alone. + The general plan is the same as that which we have already seen at + Borcovicus, with the same rounded corners, and double gateway with + guard-chambers at each side; the western and eastern walls at Chesters, + however, have each an additional single gateway to the south of the + larger portals. We must content ourselves with a short survey of the + camp, with its two wide streets at right angles to each other as at + Borcovicus, and the rest of them very narrow—indeed, little more than + two feet in width; the remains of its Forum and market, its barracks + and houses, its open shops and colonnades, the bases of the pillars yet + in position; its baths, with pipes, cistern, and flues; and a vaulted + chamber which was thought, on its being first excavated, to lead to + underground stables, for a local tradition held that such were in + existence, and would be found, with a troop of five hundred horses. The + vault, however, did not lead further, so that the tradition remained + unproven. Notwithstanding this, there was a grain of fact in it; for + Chesters was a cavalry station, and five hundred was the full complement + of the <i>ala</i>, or troop (<i>ala</i> being a “wing,” and cavalry forming the + “wing” of an army in position). +</p> +<p> + Outside the walls of Cilurnum are traces of the usual suburban + dwellings; and here, near the river, stood the villa of the officer in + command of the station. The excavation of all these buildings and many + others took place in the forties and fifties of last century, and were + due to the energy of Mr. John Clayton, the learned and zealous + antiquary, in the possession of whose family the estate still remains. + To Mr. N.G. Clayton we owe the Museum at the Lodge gate, which he built + for the reception of the notable collection it contains of antiquities + gathered from all the various stations in Northumberland. A very fine + altar brought from Vindolana at once strikes the eye, and may be taken + as a type of many others, though not many are so perfect. The gravestone + of a standard-bearer, from the neighbouring station of Procolitia, shows + a full-length carving of the dead warrior. Other inscribed stones are of + great interest, though unfortunately most of them are but fragments; + still these fragments not infrequently contain a few words which enable + students of them to confirm a date or a fact concerning the garrisons, + which must otherwise have been a matter of pure conjecture. For + instance, it might seem very improbable that the same regiments should + have been quartered in certain stations for over two hundred years; yet + one of the inscribed stones proves that such was the case at Cilurnum. + The inscription states that the second <i>ala</i> of the Asturians repaired + the temple during the consulate of certain persons, which is found to be + about the year 221. In the <i>Notitia</i>, which was not compiled until the + beginning of the fifth century, the second <i>ala</i> of the Asturians is + given as the garrison of Cilurnum. +</p> +<p> + Another thing which strikes the imagination is the sight, after the + lapse of so many centuries, of the erasures on various inscribed + stones—erasures of some emperor’s or Caesar’s name after his death by + the chisel of a soldier in one of his legions on this far-away post of + his empire. It is one thing to read one’s Gibbon, and learn of the + murder of Geta, son of Severus, by order of his brother Caracalla, and + another to see the youth’s name roughly scratched out on a stone in + Hexham Abbey crypt; and to read of the assassination of Elagabalus does + not move us one whit, but to see his name erased from a stone in + Chesters museum brings the tumultuous happenings in ancient Rome very + closely home to us. +</p> +<p> + Here are also several Roman milestones, with their lengthy and sonorous + inscriptions, from various points on the Wall; and a miscellaneous and + deeply interesting collection of smaller articles, such as ornaments of + bronze, jet, or gold, fibulae (brooches or clasps), coins of many + reigns, Samian-ware, terra-cotta and glass, parts of harness, etc., etc. +</p> +<p> + Of carven figures there are several besides the standard bearer already + mentioned. The best is a figure of Cybele, with elaborate draperies, + but unfortunately headless; another, of Victory, holds a palm branch in + the left hand, but the right arm is missing. A soldier is shown with + spear, shield, and ornate head-piece; and a representation of a + river-god, the genius of the Tyne, is worthy of notice. He is a bearded + figure, after the style of the figures of Nilus, or the representations + in old prints of Father Thames. From Procolitia comes an altar to the + goddess Coventina, a name not met with elsewhere, the presiding genius + of the well in that station. She is shown reclining on a water-lily + leaf, holding in one hand a water-plant, and in the other a goblet from + which a stream of water runs. An elaborate carving of three water + nymphs, most probably meant to be in attendance on the goddess, is one + of the few pieces of sculpture that are not greatly mutilated. +</p> +<p> + Centurial stones are numerous, having been put up at all parts of the + Wall to record the building of such and such parts by various centurions + and their companies. The mark >, which Dr. Hodgkin supposes to be a + representation of the vine rod, a centurion’s symbol of authority, and + the sign C or Q, are used to signify a century. Thus a stone inscribed Q + VAL. MAXI. states that the century of Valerius Maximus built that part + of the Wall. Two or three small altars are inscribed DIBVS + VETERIBVS—“To the Old Gods”; and Mars Thingsus is well represented. +</p> +<p> + A very important relic of Roman times found at Cilurnum was a bronze + tablet of citizenship, giving this coveted privilege to a number of + soldiers who had served in twenty-five campaigns and received honourable + discharge. There have been only three specimens of this diploma found in + Britain, and all are preserved in the British Museum. There are many + memorial tablets erected by wives to their husbands, and husbands to + their wives, which leads to much speculation as to how these ladies, + high-born Roman, native Briton, or freed-woman, liked their sojourn in a + small garrison town on the breezy heights of a Northumbrian moorland. + Those ladies who dwelt at Cilurnum, however, had not so much cause to + complain, for such natural advantages as were to be had were certainly + theirs, in that sheltered spot. The scenery round about Cilurnum is + quiet, peaceful and pastoral, altogether different from the wild beauty + of Cuddy’s Crag, Limestone Corner, or Whinshields. +</p> +<p> + Having now noticed the two chief stations on the line of the Wall, it + will be interesting to follow the course of the rampart itself + throughout its journey across Northumberland, though to do so in detail + is impossible within the limits of so small a volume as the present one. + Neither would it be necessary, or desirable, for the last word in + detailed description has been said long ago in the two wonderfully + exhaustive treatises on the subject by Dr. Bruce. +</p> +<p> + A list of Roman officials, civil and military, throughout the empire has + come down to us; in this list—<i>Notitia Dignitatem et Administratem, tam + civilium quam militarium in partibus orientis et occidentis</i>—the + portion which relates to the Wall is headed, <i>Item per lineam + Valli</i>—“Also along the line of the Wall.” The following is a copy of + this portion, as given by Dr. Bruce in his <i>Handbook to the Roman Wall</i>. +</p> +<pre> + The Tribune of the fourth cohort of the Lingones at Segedunum. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of Cornovii at Pons AElii. + + The Prefect of the first <i>ala</i> of the Asturians at Condercum. The + Tribune of the first cohort of the Frixagi (Frisii) at Vindobala. + + The Prefect of the Savinian <i>ala</i> at Hunnum. + + The Prefect of the second <i>ala</i> of the Asturians at Cilurnum. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of the Batavians at Procolitia. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of the Tungrians at Borcovicus. + + The Tribune of the fourth cohort of the Gauls at Vindolana. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of Asturians at Aesica. + + The Tribune of the second cohort of Dalmatians at Magna. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of Dacians, styled Aelia, at Amboglanna. + + The Prefect of the <i>ala</i> called “Petriana,” at Petriana. + + The Prefect of a detachment of Moors, styled Aureliani, at Aballaba. + + The Tribune of the second cohort of the Lingones at Congavata. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of Spaniards at Axelodunum. + + The Tribune of the second cohort of the Thracians at Gabrosentum. + + The Tribune of the first marine cohort, styled Aelia, at Tunnocelum. + + The Tribune of the first cohort of the Morini at Glannibanta. + + The Tribune of the third cohort of the Nervians at Alionis. + + The Cuneus of men in armour at Bremetenracum. + + The Prefect of the first <i>ala</i>, styled Herculean, at Olenacum. + + The Tribune of the sixth cohort of the Nervians at Virosidum. +</pre> +<p> + Of these stations, with their officers and troops, only those as far as + Magna are in Northumberland; the rest continue the chain of defences + across Cumberland to the Solway Firth. Besides these stations, there + were <i>castella</i> at the distance of every Roman mile (seven furlongs) + along the Wall, from which circumstance they are known as + “mile-castles.” They provided accommodation for the troops necessary + between the stations, which were at some distance from each other; and + between each two <i>castella</i> there were also erected two turrets, so that + communication from one end of the Wall to the other was speedy and + certain. +</p> +<p> + All traces of the station of Segedunum (Wallsend) have long since + disappeared; the Wall from there, beginning actually in the bed of the + river, ran almost parallel with the N.E.R. Tynemouth Branch, a little to + the south of it, and climbing the hill to Byker, went down the slope to + the Ouseburn parallel with Shields Road, crossing the burn just a little + to the south of Byker Bridge. From there its course has been traced to + Red Barns, where St. Dominic’s now stands, to the Sallyport Gate, and + over the Wall Knoll to Pilgrim Street; thence to the west door of the + Cathedral, and on past St. John’s Church, up Westgate Road. +</p> +<p> + The station at Pons AElii, it is generally agreed, occupied the ground + between the Cathedral church of St. Nicholas and the premises of the + Lit. and Phil. Society. Following the Wall up Westgate Road, we are now + out upon the highway from Newcastle to Carlisle, which, as we have seen, + is upon the very line of the Wall for nearly a score of miles. At + Condercum (Benwell) the next station, garrisoned by a cavalry corps of + Asturians from Spain, a small temple was uncovered in the course of + excavating, and two altars found still standing in their original + position. Both of these were to a deity unknown elsewhere, given as + Antenociticus on one, and as Anociticus on the other. The former was + erected by a centurion of the Twentieth Legion, the Valerian and + Victorious, whose crest, the running boar, we shall meet with more than + once in our journey. +</p> +<p> + Westward from here, near West Denton Lodge, faint indications of the + turf wall (generally called the Vallum, to distinguish it from the + Murus, or stone wall), come into sight, and traces of a mile-castle to + the left of the road. After this the Vallum and Murus accompany each + other for the rest of their journey, with but little intermission. The + next mile-castle was at Walbottle, from which point a delightful view of + the Tyne valley and the surrounding country can be obtained. Passing + Throckley and Heddon-on-the-Wall, where the fosse on the northern side + of the Wall is well seen, and also the Vallum and its fosse, Vindolana + (Rutchester) is reached; but there is little evidence here that it is + the site of a once busy and bustling garrison station. Indeed, up to + this point and for a considerable distance further, a few courses of + stones here and there are all that is to be seen of the Roman Wall, its + material having for the most part been swallowed up in the construction + of the turnpike road on which we are travelling. This road was made in + 1745 because there was no road by which General Wade could convey his + troops from Newcastle to Carlisle, when “Bonnie Prince Charlie” marched + so gaily to that city on his way southward, and so sadly, in a month, + returned again. +</p> +<p> + The Wall now makes for the ridge of Harlow Hill, while the Vallum goes + on in a perfectly straight line past the picturesque Whittle Dene and + the waterworks, until the Wall joins it again near Welton, where the + old pele-tower is entirely built of Roman stones. After Matfen Piers, + where a road to the northward leads to the beautiful little village of + Matfen, and one to the southward to Corbridge, the Wall passes Wall + Houses and Halton Shields, where the various lines of the Wall, road, + and earthworks, as well as the fosse of each, can be distinctly seen. + Passing Carr Hill, the Wall leads up to the station of Hunnum (Halton + Chesters), where Parnesius was stationed when Maximus gave him his + commission on the Wall. It is not easy to recognise the site now, but as + we follow the road we may comfort ourselves with the reflection that at + least we have walked right across it from the eastern gate to the + western. +</p> +<p> + A short distance further on is Stagshawbank, famed for its fairs, the + glory of which, however, has greatly departed since the days when Dandie + Dinmont had such adventures on returning from “Staneshiebank.” It stands + just where the Wall crosses the Watling Street, which enters + Northumberland at Ebchester, and crossing the moors to Whittonstall, + leads down the long descent to Riding Mill; there turning westward to + Corbridge, it comes straight on to Stagshawbank, leading thence + northwestward past the Wall through Redesdale to the Borders, which it + reaches at Ad Fines Camp, or Chew Green, where the solitudes of the + Cheviots and the silence of the deserted camp are soon to be startled by + the rifle-shots of Territorials at practice. West of Stagshawbank the + earthen ramparts are to be seen in great perfection. +</p> +<p> + As the Wall nears Chollerford, one may see, a little to the northward, + the little chapel of St. Oswald, which, as we have seen in a former + chapter, marks the site of the battle of Heavenfield. Just before + reaching this point, there is a quarry to the south of the Wall from + which the Romans obtained much building-stone, and one of them has left + his name carved on one of the stones left lying there, thus—(P)ETRA + FLAVI(I) CARANTINI—<i>The stone of Flavius Carantinus</i>. +</p> +<p> + At Plane Trees Field and at Brunton there are larger pieces of the Wall + standing than we have yet seen. The Wall now parts company with the + highroad, which swerves a little to the north in order to cross the Tyne + by Chollerford Bridge, while the course of the Wall is straight ahead, + for the present bridge is not the one built and used by the Romans. That + is in a line with the Wall, and therefore south of the present one; and + as we have already noticed, its piers can be seen near the river banks + when the river is low. A diagram of its position is given in Dr. Bruce’s + <i>Handbook</i>. +</p> +<p> + The Wall now leads up to the gateway of Cilurnum, which we have already + visited; and after leaving the park, it goes on up the hill to Walwick. + Here it is rejoined by the road, which now for some little distance + proceeds actually on the line of the Wall, the stones of which can + sometimes be seen in the roadway. The tower a little further on, on the + hill called Tower Tye, or Taye, was not built by the Romans, although + Roman stones were used in its erection; it is only about two hundred + years old. +</p> +<p> + At Black Carts farm, which the Wall now passes, the first turret + discovered on the line of the Wall after the excavations had begun, and + interest in the subject was revived, was here laid bare by Mr. Clayton + in 1873. At Limestone Bank, not much further on, the fosse north of the + Wall, and also that of the Vallum, show a skill in engineering such as + we are apt to fancy belongs only to these days of powerful machinery, + and explosives for rending a way through the hardest rock. The ditches + have both been cut through the solid basalt, and great boulders of it + are strewn around; one huge mass, weighing many tons, has been hoisted + out—by what means, we are left to wonder; and another, still in the + ditch, has the holes, intended for the wedges still discernible. +</p> +<p> + A mile or so further on is Procolitia (Carrawburgh), where is the famous + well presided over by the goddess Coventina, whose acquaintance we have + already made at Cilurnum. The remains of the station at Procolitia are + by no means to be compared with those at Borcovicus or Cilurnum; very + few of its stones are yet remaining. The well was the most interesting + find at Procolitia. It was known to be there, for Horsley had mentioned + it; but the waters which supplied it were diverted in consequence of + some lead-mining operations. Then the stream formed by its overflow + dried up, grass grew over its course and over the well, and it was lost + sight of entirely. But the same thing which had led to its disappearance + was the means of finding it again. Some lead miners, prospecting for + another vein of ore in the neighbourhood, happened to dig in this very + spot, and soon struck the stones round the mouth of the well. Mr. + Clayton had it properly excavated, and was rewarded by coming not only + upon the well, but a rich find of Roman relics of all kinds, which had + either been thrown pell-mell into it for concealment in a moment of + danger, or, what is more likely, been thrown in during the course of + ages as votive offerings to the presiding goddess of the well. There + were thousands of coins, mostly silver and copper, with four gold pieces + among them; and a large collection of miscellaneous objects, including + vases, shoes, pearls, ornaments, altars and inscribed stones, all of + which were taken to Chesters. The next point of interest on the Wall is + the farmhouse of Carraw, which the Priors of Hexham Abbey once used as a + summer retreat. A little further on, at Shield-on-the-Wall, Wade’s road + crosses to the south of the earthen lines, and parts company with the + Wall for a little while, for the latter bends northward to take the high + ridge, as usual, while the road and Vallum continue in a straight line. + The fragments of a mile-castle are standing just at the point where the + Wall swerves northward; indeed, we have been passing the sites of these + <i>castella</i>, with fragments more or less in evidence all along the route, + but those which we shall now encounter are much more distinctly to be + seen than their fellows on the eastern part of the journey, many of + which have disappeared altogether. +</p> +<p> + The high crags which here shoulder the Wall are part of the Great Whin + Sill, an intrusive dyke of dolerite which stretches from Greenhead + northeastward across the county nearly to Berwick. The military road + here leaves the Wall, with which it does not again come into close + contact until both are near Carlisle, though in several places the Roman + road will be encountered near the Wall in a well-preserved condition. + The Wall now climbs another ascent to the farmhouse of Sewingshields, + which name is variously explained as “Seven Shields,” and as “The shiels + (shielings, or little huts) by the seugh” or hollow—the hollow being + the fosse. Sewingshields Castle, long since disappeared, is the scene of + the knight’s adventures in Sir Walter Scott’s “Harold the Dauntless.” + And tradition asserts that King Arthur, with Queen Guinevere and all the + court, lies in an enchanted sleep beneath the castle, or at least its + site. Not only is there no castle, but the Wall also has been despoiled + to supply the material for building the farmhouse and other buildings in + the neighbourhood. The Wall climbs unfalteringly over the crags, one + after the other, until the wide opening of Busy Gap is reached. This + being such a convenient pass from north to south, it was naturally used + constantly by raiders and thieves; and such an unenviable notoriety did + it possess, that to call a person a “Busy Gap rogue” was sufficient to + lay oneself open to an action for libel. Climbing the next slope we look + down on Broomlee Lough and reach the portion of the Wall we have already + noted—Borcovicus (Housesteads), Cuddy’s Crag, Hot Bank farmhouse, and + Crag; Lough. +</p> +<p> + The course of the Wall continues, past Milking Gap, along the rugged + heights of Steel Rig, Cat’s Stairs, and Peel Crag, till on reaching + Winshields we are at the highest point on the line, 1,230 feet above the + sea-level. Dipping down to Green Slack, the Wall crosses the valley + called Lodham Slack, and begins to ascend once more. The local names of + gaps and heights in this neighbourhood are highly descriptive, and + sometimes weirdly suggestive; we have had Cat’s Stairs, and now we come + to Bogle Hole, Bloody Gap, and Thorny Doors. A little further west from + here the very considerable remains of a mile-castle may be seen, in + which a tombstone was found doing duty as a hearth-stone. The + inscription recorded that it had been erected by Pusinna to the memory + of her husband Dagvaldus, a soldier of Pannonia. +</p> +<p> + Westward from this mile-castle the Wall climbs Burnhead Crag, on which + the foundations of a building, similar to the turrets, were exposed a + few years ago; then it dips down again to Haltwhistle Burn, which comes + from Greenlee Lough, and is called, until it reaches the Wall, the Caw + Burn. From the burn a winding watercourse supplied the Roman station of + AEsica (Great Chesters) with water. Just here the Wall is in a very + ruinous condition; and of the station of AEsica but little masonry + remains, though the outlines of it can he clearly traced. Beyond AEsica, + however, is a splendid portion of the Wall, standing some seven or eight + courses high. Here it climbs again to the top of the crags which once + more appear, bold and rugged, to culminate in the “Nine Nicks of + Thirlwall,” so called from the number of separate heights into which the + crags divide, and over which the Wall takes its way. +</p> +<p> + At Walltown, on this part of its course, is to be seen an old well, in + which Paulinus is said to have baptised King Edwin; but the local name + for it is King Arthur’s Well. Now the Wall descends to a level and + pastoral country, leaving behind it the wild moorland and craggy heights + across which it has travelled so long; but unfortunately much of it has + been destroyed by the quarrying operations at Greenhead. Of the station + of Magna (Caervoran) little can be seen at the present day. This station + and Aesica are nearer to each other than are any other two stations on + the Wall, and a line of camps, five in number, stand south of the Wall + and Vallum, from Magna to Amboglanna, showing that a third line of + defence was deemed necessary where the natural defences of moorland + ridge, lough or crag were absent. +</p> +<p> + The Roman way called the Stanegate comes from the eastward almost up to + the station of Magna, which stands a little to the south of both Wall + and Vallum, between them and Wade’s road, which here approaches nearer + to the Wall than it has done for many miles. +</p> +<p> + Another Roman road, the Maiden Way, comes from the South closely up to + the Vallum, quite near to Thirlwall castle. The name “Thirlwals” was + supposed to commemorate the “thirling” (drilling or piercing) of the + Wall at this point by the barbarians, but this is extremely doubtful; + though the difficulty of defending the wall on this level tract lends an + air of likelihood to this supposition. Near here the little river Tipalt + flows across the line of the Wall on its way southward to join the North + Tyne. +</p> +<p> + Passing Wallend, Gap, and Rose Hill, where Gilsland railway station now + stands, we follow the Wall to the deep dene of the Poltross Burn, which + forms the boundary between Northumberland and Cumberland. The railway + just beyond the burn crosses the line of the Wall; and, further on, an + interesting portion, several courses high, takes its way through the + Vicarage garden. Here we will leave it to continue its way through + Cumberland, and turn our attention to the chief Roman ways which cross + Northumberland, with other stations standing upon them. +</p> +<p> + The Watling Street or Dere Street, we have already noticed; and the + chief station on it, which has also proved to be the largest in + Northumberland, is Corstopitum, near Corbridge. The recent excavations + since 1906 have resulted in the finding of many interesting relics, + including some hundreds of coins, amongst which were forty-eight gold + pieces, of later Roman date, ranging from those of Valentinian I. to + those of Magnus Maximus. Pottery in large quantities has also been + found, most of it, of course, in a fragmentary condition, but some + pieces, notably bowls of Samian ware, almost perfect, and dating from + the first century. Several interesting pieces of sculpture have been + unearthed; one a finely sculptured lion standing over an animal which it + has evidently just killed; this was, no doubt, used as an outlet for + water at the fountain, judging by the projection of the lion’s lower + lip. Another piece of sculpture represents a sun-god, the rays + surrounding his face; and several altars and many inscribed stones are + also amongst the treasures lately revealed. A clay mould of a human + figure was also found, which is supposed to represent some Keltic deity; + but as the figure wears a short tunic not unlike a kilt, and carries a + crooked club, the workmen promptly christened it Harry Lauder! The + buildings in this town, for it is much more than a military station, + have been large and imposing, as is shown by each successive revelation + made by the excavators’ spades. The portion of the Watling Street + leading from Corstopitum to the river has also been laid bare. +</p> +<p> + The Roman road called the Stanegate runs westward from the North Tyne at + Cilurnum, a little to the north of Fourstones railway station, through + Newbrough, on past Grindon Hill, Grindon Lough, which it passes on the + south, and Grindon Dykes, to Vindolana (Chesterholm) another Roman town, + which lies a mile due south from Hot Bank farmhouse on the Wall. + Vindolana stood on a most favourable site, a high platform protected on + three sides, and it covered three and a half acres of ground. Here no + excavations have yet been made, and the site is grass grown and desolate + although the outlines of the station may be distinctly traced. A ruinous + building to the west of this station was popularly called the Fairies’ + Kitchen, a name given to it on account of the marks of fire and soot on + the pillars. From the station several inscribed stones and altars have + been taken to the museum at Chesters. One of them is dedicated to the + Genius of the Camp by Pituanius Secundus, the Prefect of the fourth + Cohort of the Gauls, which cohort, as we have already seen by the + <i>Votitia</i>, was stationed here. In the valley below Vindolana a little + cottage is standing. It is built entirely of Roman stones, and was + erected by an enthusiastic antiquary, Mr. Anthony Hedley, for himself. + Many of the stones used in its construction have inscriptions on them; + and in the covered passage, leading from the cottage down to the burn, + we come upon one of them inscribed with the name of our old friend the + XXth Legion, and its crest, the running boar. The most interesting relic + of all in the neighbourhood is a Roman mile-stone, standing in its + original position on the Stanegate. +</p> +<p> + Leaving Vindolana, this road goes on westward to Magna, where it joins + the Maiden Way, another important Roman road, which runs from north to + south. Coming from the neighbourhood of Bewcastle Fells, it enters + Northumberland at Gilsland, and leading eastward as far as Magna, then + turns directly southward past Greenhead. +</p> +<p> + In concluding this chapter on the Roman remains in our county, <i>apropos</i> + of the wholesale destruction of the Wall and larger stations which has + taken place in the last century or two, I will quote the words of two + historians on that subject. Dr. Thomas Hodgkin says: “In the reign of + Queen Elizabeth, Camden, the enthusiastic antiquary, dared not traverse + the line of the wall by reason of the gangs of brigands by whom it was + infested. The union of the two countries brought peace, and peace + brought prosperity; prosperity, alas! more fatal to the Wall than + centuries of Border warfare. For now the prosperous farmers of + Northumberland and Cumberland awoke to the building facilities which + lurked in these square green enclosures on their farms, treated them as + their best quarries, and robbed them unmercifully of their fine + well-hewn stones. Happily that work of demolition is now in great + measure stayed, and at this day we visit the camps for a nobler purpose, + to learn all they can teach us as to the past history of our country.” +</p> +<p> + None, I think, will disagree with these words of the learned Doctor, + whether or not they may go as far as Cadwallader J. Bates, who, in + concluding his chapter on the Roman Wall, gave it as his opinion that + “unless the island is conquered by some civilized nation, there will + soon be no traces of the Wall left. Nay, even the splendid whinstone + crags on which it stands will be all quarried away to mend the roads of + our urban and rural authorities.” +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus10"></a> +<img src="images/166.jpg" width="300" height="174" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.<br/>SOME NORTHUMBRIAN STREAMS.</h2> + +<pre> + “Come, don’t abuse our climate, and revile + The crowning county of England—yes, the best. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + Have you and I, then, raced across its moors. + Till horse and boy were well-nigh mad with glee, + So often, summer and winter, home from school, + And not found that out? Take the streams away, + The country would be sweeter than the South + Anywhere; give the South our streams, would it + Be fit to match our Borders? Flower and crag, + Burnside and boulder, heather and whin,—you don’t + Dream you can match them south of this? And then, + If all the unwatered country were as flat + As the Eton playing-fields, give it back our burns, + And set them singing through a sad South world, + And try to make them dismal as its fens— + They won’t be! Bright and tawny, full of fun + And storm and sunlight, taking change and chance + With laugh on laugh of triumph—why, you know + How they plunge, pause, chafe, chide across the rocks, + And chuckle along the rapids, till they breathe + And rest and pant and build some bright deep bath + For happy boys to dive in, and swim up. + And match the water’s laughter.” +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<p> + Northumberland is fortunate in the number of rivers which, owing to the + position of the Cheviot Hills, flow right across the county from west to + east. These Northumbrian streams have a distinct character of their own, + and are of a different breed from those of the southern; counties. They + are neither mountain torrents nor placid leisurely rivers, such as are + met elsewhere in Britain, but busy, bright, joyous, and sparkling, + never sluggish, never silent, even when deep and full, as is the Tyne in + its lower reaches. With the Tyne and its tributary streams we have + already travelled; but there are others yet awaiting us, claiming our + attention sometimes for the romantic scenery through which they run + their bright course, sometimes for the historic sites they pass on their + way, sometimes for both reasons. Wansbeck, Coquet, Aln, or Till—each + has its own interest, as has also the Tweed in that score or so of miles + along which it can he spoken of in connection with Northumberland. +</p> +<p> + The source of the Wansbeck, the only “beck” the county possesses, is + amongst the “Wild Hills o’ Wannys” (Wanny’s beck) a group of picturesque + sandstone crags which surround Sweethope Lough, a sheet of water which + covers 180 acres. The scenery of this upper course of the Wansbeck is + very striking, from the Lough to Kirkwhelpington, flowing between bleak + moorland and rich pasture, and on to Littleharle Tower, which stands + secluded in deep woods. +</p> +<p> + Another mansion near at hand, and most picturesquely situated, is + Wallington Hall, lying a short distance away on the north bank of the + Wansbeck. It is one of the most notable country houses in + Northumberland, and especially so on account of its unique + picture-gallery, roofed with dull glass, and containing several series + of pictures connected with Northumbrian history. One of these is a + series of frescoes by William Bell Scott, whose name was for so many + years associated with all that was best in art in Newcastle, and whose + picture of the “Building of the Castle” may be seen at the head of the + staircase in the Lit. and Phil. building. His pictures at Wallington + are:—1. The Building of the Roman Wall. 2. The visit of King Egfrid + and Bishop Trumwine to St. Cuthbert on Fame. 3. A Descent of the Danes. + 4. Death of the Venerable Bede. 5. The Charlton Spur. 6. Bernard Gilpin + taking down a challenge glove in Rothbury Church. 7. Grace Darling and + her father on the way to the wreck. 8. The Nineteenth Century—showing + the High Level Bridge, the Quayside, an Armstrong gun, etc., etc. + Another series consists of medallions and portraits of famous men + connected with Northumbrian events, from Hadrian and Severus down to + George Stephenson and others of modern times; while yet another depicts + all the incidents of “Chevy Chase.” +</p> +<p> + Some miles further eastward, the Wansbeck receives the Hart Burn—which, + by the way, is larger than the parent stream at this point—and, a + little later, the Font. The lovely little village of Mitford, once + important enough to overshadow the Morpeth of that day, lies at the + junction of Font and Wansbeck. The Mitfords of Mitford can boast, if + ever family could, of being Northumbrian of the Northumbrians, as they + were seated here before the days of the Conqueror, who made such a + general upsetting amongst the Saxon landowners. +</p> +<p> + The beauty of the two miles walk along the banks of the Wansbeck from + here to Morpeth is not easy to surpass in all the county, though several + parts of the Coquet valley may justly compete with it. William Howitt + has left on record his admiration for this lovely region, and said + Morpeth was “more like a town in a dream” than a reality. Especially is + this so when looking at the town from the neighbourhood of the river. + Before actually reaching Morpeth the Wansbeck waters the fair fields + that once held Newminster Abbey in its pride; now, nothing remains but + an arch or so and a few stones, to remind us of the noble abbey which + Ralph de Merley built so long ago. When only half built it was + demolished by the Scots under King David; but willing hands set to work + again, and the abbey and monastery were completed. +</p> +<p> + In the town of Morpeth, though newer buildings are stretching out + towards the outskirts, many of the ancient buildings and streets remain, + and the general aspect of this part of it is much the same as when the + Jacobites of Northumberland gathered together here, and the clergyman, + Mr. Buxton, proclaimed James III. in its Market Place. Of Morpeth + Castle, built by a De Merley soon after the Conquest, only the gateway + tower remains, but the outlines of the original boundary walls can be + clearly traced. A company of five hundred Scots, whom Leslie had left as + a garrison in 1644, held out here for three weeks against two thousand + Royalists under Montrose. After the cannonading received during that + siege, the walls were not repaired again, and the castle fell into + decay. The inhabitants of Morpeth have a daily reminder of times yet + more remote, for the Curfew Bell still rings out over the little town + every evening at eight o’clock. +</p> +<p> + Another walk of three miles along the still beautiful banks of the + Wansbeck brings us to Bothal, another little village of great beauty, + embowered and almost hidden amongst luxuriant woods. Its curious name is + derived from the Anglo-Saxon <i>bottell</i>, a place of abode (as in + Walbottle). The name conjures up memories of the knights of old, their + loves and their fortunes, fair or disastrous; for the best-known version + of “The Hermit of Warkworth” tells us that it was a Bertram of Bothal + who was the luckless hero of that tale, though another version avers + that he belonged to the house of Percy. +</p> +<p> + Wansbeck’s fellow stream, the Coquet, has its birth amongst some of the + wildest scenery of the Cheviot Hills, where the heights of Deel’s Hill + and Woodbist Law look down on the now silent Watling Street and the + deserted Ad Fines Camp. In its windings along the bases of the hills it + is joined by the Usway Burn, said to be named after King Oswy, between + which and the little river Alwine lies the famous Lordship of Kidland, + once desolate on account of the thieving and raiding of its neighbours + of Bedesdale and Scotland. +</p> +<p> + Hodgson, in his “Northumberland,” says of this region, “All the said + Kydlande is full of lytle hilles or mountaynes, and between the saide + hilles be dyvers valyes in which discende litle Ryvvelles or brokes of + water, spryngynge out of the said hilles and all fallynge into a lytle + Rever or broke callede Kidlande water, w’ch fallethe into the rever of + cockette nere to the towne of alwynntonn, w’tin a myll of the castell of + harbottell.” The reasons for the desolation of Kidland are graphically + set forth:—“In somer seasons when good peace ys betwene England and + Scotland, th’inhabitantes of dyv’se townes thereaboutes repayres up with + theyr cattall in som’ynge (summering) as ys aforesaid, and so have used + to do of longe tyme. And for the pasture of theyr cattall, so long as + they would tarye there they payed for a knoweledge two pens for a + household, or a grote at the most, though they had nev’ so many + cattalles. And yet the poore men thoughte their fermes dere enoughe. + There was but fewe yeres that they escaped w’thout a greatter losse of + their goodes and cattalles, by spoyle or thefte of the Scottes or + Ryddesdale men, then would have paide for the pasture of theyr cattail + in a much better grounde. And ov’ (over, besides) that, the saide valyes + or hopes of Kidlande lyeth so distant and devyded by mounteynes one from + an other, that such as Inhabyte in one of these hoopes, valeys, or + graynes, can not heare the Fraye outcrye, or exclamac’on of such as + dwell in an other hoope or valley upon the other side of the said + mountayne, nor come or assemble to theyr assystance in tyme of + necessytie. Wherefore we can not fynde anye of the neyghbours + thereabouts wyllinge cotynnally to Inhabyte or plenyshe w’thin the saide + grounde of Kydland, and especially in wynter tyme.” +</p> +<p> + These reasons were given by the people of “Cockdale” in the neighbouring + valley, to account for the desolation of Kidland, which lay open on the + northward to attacks from the Scots, and had no defence on the south + from the rievers of Redesdale. The inhabitants of Coquetdale seem to + have been a right valiant and hardy fraternity, honest and fearless, + well able to give good blows in defence of their possessions, for it is + left on record that “the people of the said Cock-dayle be best p’pared + for defence and most defensyble people of themselfes, and of the truest + and best sorte of anye that do Inhabyte, endlonge, the frounter or + border of the said mydle m’ches of England.” The traces of these days of + raid and foray are to be found in abundance all over Coquetdale, as + indeed all over Northumberland, in pele-tower and barmkyn, fortified + dwelling and bastle house. +</p> +<p> + Harbottle Castle would have a good deal to tell, could it only speak, of + siege and assault from the day when, “with the aid of the whole county + of Northumberland and the bishopric of Durham,” it was built by Henry + II., until, after the Union of the Crowns, it shared the fate of many of + the Border strongholds, and fell into gradual decay, or was used as a + quarry from which to draw building material for new and modern + mansions. At Rothbury, a pele-tower has formed the dwelling of the + Vicars of that town from the time that any mention of Whitton Tower is + to be found, it being first noticed as “Turris de Whitton, iuxta + Rothebery.” Rothbury itself occupies quite the finest situation of any + of the Northumbrian towns. Others, besides it, lie on the banks of a + pretty river; others, too, possess fair meadows and rich pastures; but + none other has the combination of these attractive features with the + finer surroundings of hill, crag, and moorland as picturesquely + beautiful as those of Rothbury. In the old church here Bernard Gilpin, + “the Apostle of the North,” often preached; and even the fierce rival + factions of the Borderland were so influenced by the gentle, yet + fearless preacher, that they consented to forego their usual pleasure of + “drawing” whenever they met one of a rival family, at least so long as + Gilpin dwelt among them, and especially to refrain from showing their + hostility in church. +</p> +<p> + There are in Coquetdale, as elsewhere, memorials of the ancient British + days in the many camps to be found on the summits of the hills near the + town, on Tosson Hill and the Simonside Hills; and not camps only, but + barrows, cist-vaens, and flint weapons in considerable numbers. The + magnificent view to be obtained, on a clear day, from Tosson Hill or the + Simonsides is one to be remembered; to the west and north stretch the + vales of Coquet and Alwin, with the rolling heights of the Cheviots + bounding them; northward are the woods surrounding Biddlestone Hall, the + “Osbaldistone Hals” of Scot’s <i>Rob Roy</i>, awakening memories of Di + Vernon; far to the eastward a faint blue haze denotes the distant + coastline; while southward, over the dales of Rede and Tyne, the smoke + of industrial Tyneside lies on the horizon, with the spires and towers + of Newcastle showing faintly against the heights of the Durham side of + the Tyne. +</p> +<p> + One of the chief sights of Rothbury is the beautiful mansion of Cragside + and the wonderful valley of Debdon and Crag Hill, as transformed by the + first Lord Armstrong into a paradise of beauty, where art and nature are + so blended as to make a romantically artistic whole. Another lovely spot + on the banks of Coquet is at Brinkburn, where the famous Priory stands + almost hidden at the foot of thickly wooded slopes. A very much larger + portion of this fine Priory is still standing than is the case with many + other religious houses of the same age, for it dates from the reign of + Henry I. The story is told of Brinkburn as well as of Blanchland, that a + party of marauding Scots on one of their forays passed by the Priory + without discovering it in its leafy bower; and so overjoyed were the + monks at their escape that they incautiously rang the bells by way of + showing their delight. The Scots, who had passed out of sight but not + out of hearing, immediately returned on their tracks, and, guided by the + joyful peal, reached the Priory, sacked the buildings, and then set them + on fire. It may well be that the tragedy occurred at both places, on + different occasions. +</p> +<p> + Farther eastward down the Coquet are two places pre-eminently noted as + centres for the sport for which the river is famed above all other + Northumbrian streams, though some of them are worthy rivals. These two + places are Weldon Bridge and Felton; the old Angler’s Inn at the + first-named is a favourite rendezvous of the fraternity of rod and + creel. Fishermen have long known the fascination of these two places, + and I quote from the “Fisherman’s Garland” two stanzas written by two + enthusiastic anglers in praise of them. The writers are Robert Roxby + and Thomas Doubleday. +</p> +<pre> + “But we’ll awa’ to Coquetside, + For Coquet bangs them a’; + Whose winding streams sae sweetly glide + By Brinkburn’s bonny Ha’!” + + <i>Written in 1821</i> + + “The Coquet for ever, the Coquet for aye! + The <i>Woodhall</i> and <i>Weldon</i> and <i>Felton</i> so gay, + And <i>Brinkburn</i> and <i>Linden</i>, wi’ a’ their sweet pride, + For they add to the beauty of dear Coquetside.” + + <i>Written in 1826</i> +</pre> +<p> + Felton, a charmingly placed little village, on the banks of the river + where they are overhung by graceful woods, and diversified by cliff and + grassy slope, stands just where the great North Road crosses the Coquet. + By reason of this position it has been the scene of one or two events of + historical interest, notably those connected with the “Fifteen” and the + “Forty-five.” On the former occasion, the gallant young Earl of + Derwentwater, with his followers, was joined here by a band of seventy + gentlemen from the Borders, and they rode on to Morpeth to proclaim + James III. And thirty years later, the soldiers of George II. passed + over the bridge from the southward, led by the Duke of Cumberland, and + pressed on towards the Scottish moor where they dealt the final blow to + the Stuart cause at Culloden. The interesting old church at Felton, + dating from the thirteenth century, is well worth a visit. After leaving + Felton behind, the Coquet enters on the most marked windings of all its + winding course, until, when it enters the sea at Warkworth Harbour, just + opposite Coquet Island, it has contrived to lengthen out its journey to + a distance of forty miles. +</p> +<p> + The bright clear stream of the Aln also begins its short journey across + Northumberland from the heights of Cheviot, but in the narrower + northern portion of the county. Alnham, with its pele-tower Vicarage, + ancient church, and memories of a castle, stands just at the foot of the + hills, near the source of the river. Some three or four miles eastward + along its banks, a walk through leafy woods brings us to + Whittingham—the final syllable of which, by the way, one pronounces as + “jam,” as one does that of nearly all the other place-names ending in + “ing-ham” in Northumberland, contrary though it be to etymological + considerations—excepting, curiously enough, Chillingham, situated in + the very midst of all the others. The “ing” and “ham” are in themselves + a historical guide to the days in which the various villages received + their names, these two syllables being a certain indication of a Saxon + settlement, the “home of the sons, or descendants of” whatever person + the first syllable indicates. Thus, Edlingham, only a few miles away, is + the “home or settlement of the sons of Eadwulf”; Ellingham, the “home of + the sons of Ella,” and so on. How the “Whitt” syllable was spelled we do + not know; most probably Hwitta or Hwitha—for all our <i>wh’s</i> were <i>hw</i> + originally—<i>hwaet, hwa, hwaether</i> and so forth. +</p> +<p> + This ancient village is in these days a charming and peaceful place, + lying in the midst of rich meadow lands, and surrounded by magnificent + trees. It had its romances, too, in the course of years; so long ago as + the days of the early Danish invasions a certain widow in Whittingham, + in the reign of King Alfred, had no less a person than a Danish prince + among her slaves; he was ransomed, however, and made king of the Danes + in the North, in consequence of a vision in which St. Cuthbert had + directed the Abbot of Carlisle to see this done. Young Prince Guthred’s + gratitude showed itself in a substantial grant of land to St. Cuthbert + at Durham. Whittingham Church is supposed to have been founded by the + Saxon king Ceolwulf, whose acquaintance we have already made at Holy + Island, and he bestowed the lands of Whittingham on the church at + Lindisfarne. It still shows some of the original Saxon work at the base + of the tower, and much more was to be seen before the so-called + “restoration” of the church in 1840. The pele-tower on the south side of + the river, after its days of storm and stress are over, still serves as + a shelter in time of need, for it is now used as an almshouse for the + poor of the village, a former Lady Ravensworth having originated the + quaint idea and seen it carried out. +</p> +<p> + Whittingham Fair, now Whittingham Sports, a well-known rendezvous of the + whole countryside, has lost some of its former splendour, but is still + looked forward to with great enjoyment in the surrounding district. The + old coaching road from Newcastle to Edinburgh passed through the + village, crossing the Aln by the stone bridge, from whence it went on + through Glanton and Wooler to Cornhill. +</p> +<p> + In the vale of Whittingham, the little Aln flows placidly along, its + waters murmuring a soothing refrain, a peaceful interlude between its + busy bustling beginning and its ending. Before reaching Alnwick it flows + past the ancient walls of Hulne Abbey, the monastery of Carmelite friars + so romantically founded by the Northumbrian knight and monk after his + visit to the monastery on Mount Carmel. A considerable portion of the + ancient building is still standing, and few sites chosen by the old + monks, who had an unerring eye for beauty as well as safety and + convenience in their choice of abode, can surpass this one, surrounded + by fair meadows, and standing on the green hill-side, with the rippling + Aln flowing through the levels below. In Hulne Park is also the + Brislee Tower, erected by the first Duke of Northumberland in 1781, on + the top of Brislee Hill. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus11"></a> +<a href="images/178.jpg"> +<img src="images/178.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="[Illustration: +Alnwick Castle]" /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>Alnwick Castle</b></p> +</div> + +<p> + Alnwick itself, with its quaint, uneven, narrow streets, and grey stone + houses, looks the part of a Border town even in these days; and the grim + old Hotspur tower, bestriding the main street like an ancient warrior + still on guard, helps to give the illusion an air of reality. The tower, + however, was not built by Hotspur, but by his son. The names of the + streets, too, are redolent of the days when the only safety for the + inhabitants of a town worth plundering lay in the strength of its walls + and gateways. Bondgate, Bailiffgate, and Narrowgate, still speak of the + days of siege and sortie, of fierce attack and stout defence. +</p> +<p> + The magnificent castle which dominates the town stands majestically at + the top of a green slope above the Aln, its vast array of walls and + towers far along the ridge, fronting the North as though still looking, + albeit with a seemingly languid interest, for the coming of the Scots + who were such inveterate foes of its successive lords. The principal + entrance, however, the Barbican, faces southwards to the town, and here + the massive gateway, with portcullis complete, and crowned by quaint + life-size figures of warriors in various attitudes of defence, conveys + the impression that the huge giant is still alert and on guard. The + history of Alnwick is the history of the castle and its lords, from the + days of Gilbert Tyson, variously known as Tison, Tisson, and De Tesson, + one of the Conqueror’s standardbearers, upon whom this northern estate + was bestowed, until the present time. After being held by the family of + De Vesci (of which the modern rendering is Vasey—a name found all over + south-east Northumberland) for over two hundred years, it passed into + the hands of the house of Percy. The Percies, who hailed from the + village of Perce in Normandy, had large estates in Yorkshire, bestowed + by the Conqueror on the first of the name to arrive in England in his + train. The family, however, was represented by an heiress only in the + reign of Henry II., whose second wife, a daughter of the Duke of + Brabant, thought this heiress, with her wide possessions, a suitable + match for her own young half-brother Joceline of Louvain. The marriage + took place; and thereafter followed the long line of Henry Percies + (Henry being a favourite name of the Counts of Louvain) who played such + a large part in the history of both England and Scotland; for, as nearly + every Percy was a Warden of the Marches, Scottish doings concerned them + more or less intimately—indeed, often more so than English affairs. +</p> +<p> + It was the third Henry Percy who purchased Alnwick in 1309 from Antony + Bec, Bishop of Durham and guardian of the last De Vesci, and from that + time the fortunes of the Percies, though they still held their Yorkshire + estates, were linked permanently with the little town on the Aln, and + the fortress which alike commanded and defended it. The fourth Henry + Percy began to build the castle as we see it now; but to call him “the + fourth” is a little confusing, as he was the second Henry Percy, Lord of + Alnwick. On the whole, it will be clearer to begin the enumerations of + the various Henry Percies from the time they became Lords of Alnwick. It + was, then, Henry Percy the second, Lord of Alnwick, who began the + re-building of the castle; he also was jointly responsible for the + safety of the realm during the absence of Edward III. in the French + wars, and in this official capacity, no less than in that of a Border + baron whose delight it was to exchange lusty blows with an ever-ready + foe, he helped to win the battle of Neville’s Cross. His son, Henry, + married a sister of John of Gaunt, and their son, the next Henry Percy, + was that friend who stood John Wycliffe in such good stead, when he was + cited to appear before the Bishop of London. Henry Percy, who had been + made Earl Marshal of England, and the Duke of Lancaster took their + places one on each side of Wycliffe, and accompanied him to St. Paul’s, + clearing a way for him through the crowd. It does not belong to this + story to tell how their private quarrels with the Bishop prevented + Wycliffe’s interrogation, and how he left the Cathedral without having + uttered a word; we are concerned at the moment with his North-country + friend, who, the same year, was created Earl of Northumberland, which + title he was given after the coronation of Richard II. Nor was this all, + for he was that Northumberland whose doings in the next reign fill so + large a part of Shakespeare’s Henry IV., and he was the father of the + most famous Percy of all, the gallant Henry Percy the fifth, better + known as “Harry Hotspur.” Hotspur never became Earl of Northumberland, + being slain at Shrewsbury in the lifetime of his father, whose estates + were forfeited under attainder on account of the rebellion of himself + and his son against King Henry IV. +</p> +<p> + King Henry V. restored Hotspur’s son, the second Earl, to his family + honours, and the Percies were staunch Lancastrians during the Wars of + the Roses which followed, the third Earl and three of his brothers + losing their lives in the cause. The fifth Earl was a gorgeous person + whose magnificence equalled, almost, that of royalty. Henry Percy, the + sixth Earl of Northumberland, loved Ann Boleyn, and was her accepted + suitor before King Henry VIII. unfortunately discovered the lady’s + charm, and interfered in a highhanded “bluff King Has” fashion, and + young Percy lost his prospective bride. He had no son, although married + later to the daughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and his nephew, Thomas + Percy, became the seventh Earl. +</p> +<p> + Thereafter, a succession of plots and counterplots—the Rising of the + North, the plots to liberate Mary Queen of Scots, and the Gunpowder + Plot—each claimed a Percy among their adherents. On this account the + eighth and ninth Earls spent many years in the Tower, but the tenth + Earl, Algernon, fought for King Charles in the Civil War, the male line + of the Percy-Louvain house ending with Josceline, the eleventh Earl. The + heiress to the vast Percy estates married the Duke of Somerset; and her + grand-daughter married a Yorkshire knight, Sir Hugh Smithson, who in + 1766 was created the first Duke of Northumberland and Earl Percy, and it + is their descendants who now represent the famous old house. +</p> +<p> + At various points in the town are memorials of the constant wars between + Percies and Scots in which so many Percies spent the greater part of + their lives. At the side of the broad shady road called Rotten Row, + leading from the West Lodge to Bailiffgate, a tablet of stone marks the + spot where William the Lion of Scotland was captured as we have already + seen, in 1174, by Odinel de Umfraville and his friends; and there are + many others of similar interest. +</p> +<p> + Within the park, approached by the gate at the foot of Canongate, is the + fine gateway which is all that is left of Alnwick Abbey. No more + peaceful spot could have been found than this, on the level greensward, + surrounded by fine trees which shelter it on all sides save one, and + near the brink of the little Aln, whose banks are thickly covered with + wild flowers, while the steep slope on the opposite side of the river is + overhung with shady woods. The extent of the parks may be judged from + the fact that the enclosing wall is about five miles long. At the foot + of Bailiffgate, on the edge of a steep ridge above the descent to + Canongate and the banks of the river, the ancient parish church, + dedicated to St. Mary and St. Michael stands in a commanding position. + The present building dates from the fourteenth century, and occupies the + site of an earlier one, whose few remaining stones have been built into + the present structure. Two other reminders of long-past days are to be + found in Alnwick; one is the large stone in the Market Place to which + the bull ring used to be fixed in the days when bull-baiting and + bear-baiting took place; and the other, a relic of days still further + back in the distant years, is the sounding of the Curfew Bell, which is + still rung here every evening at eight o’clock. Altogether there is the + quaintest and most unexpected mingling of the ancient and modern in the + little feudal town. +</p> +<p> + Between Alnwick and the sea, the Aln winds its way past Alnmouth + Station, formerly known as Bilton Junction, and past Lesbury, a pretty + little tree-shaded village, to the sandy flats by Alnmouth where it ends + its journey in the North Sea. +</p> +<p> + The Till, by whose side we shall next wander, flows in the opposite + direction, for that historic stream is a tributary of “Tweed’s fair + river, broad and deep,” and curves from the Cheviots round to the + North-west, where it enters the larger stream at Tillmouth. It begins + life as the Breamish, tumbling down the slopes of Cushat Law within + sight of all the giants of the Cheviot range. The Linhope Burn, a fellow + traveller down these steep hillsides, forms in its course the Linhope + Spout, one of the largest waterfalls to be found amongst the Cheviots, + before it joins the Breamish, which then flows through a country of + green slopes and grassy levels to Ingram. This village possesses an old + church with massive square tower and windows which suggest the fortress + rather than the church. The heights which stretch eastward from the + Cheviots and bound the valley of the Till add not a little to the beauty + and variety of the scenery in this district. +</p> +<p> + The little stream, which turns northward near Glanton railway station, + moves on in loops and windings past Beanley, which Earl Gospatric held + in former days by virtue of the curious office of being a kind of + official mediator between the monarchs of England and Scotland when they + came to blows; and past Bewick, with its little Norman church buried + from sight amongst leafy trees. The effigy of a lady in the chancel of + this church is said to be that of Matilda, wife of Henry I. This is the + more likely in that the lands of Bewick formed part of her dowry, and + were given by her to the monks of Tynemouth Priory. At Bewick Bridge the + little stream ceases to be the Breamish, and becomes the Till; as an old + rhyme has it— +</p> +<pre> + “The foot of Breamish, and head of Till, + Meet together at Bewick Mils” +</pre> +<p> + Some miles to the northward, the Till reaches the little village of + Chatton, having, on the way, passed a little to the westward of + Chillingham Castle and Park, where is the famous herd of wild cattle. + Roscastle, a craggy height covered with heather, stands at the edge of + the chase, and looks over a wild and romantic scene of moorland and + pastureland, deep glens and heathery hills. The Vicarage at Chatton is + another of those north-country vicarages in which an old pele-tower + forms part of the modern residence. On the top of Chatton Law is an + ancient British encampment, with inscribed circles similar to those on + Bewick Hill. +</p> +<p> + From Chatton, the loops and windings of the Till grow more insistent, + and the little stream adds miles to its length by reason of its + frequent doubling on its tracks; this, however, but gives an added charm + to the landscape, as the silvery gleams of the winding river come + unexpectedly into view again and again. It flows on through Glendale, + with which attractive region we have already made acquaintance; and on + its banks are the two prettiest villages in Northumberland—Ford and + Etal. +</p> +<p> + Ford Castle, as seen at the present day, is chiefly modern, but the + northwest tower is part of the old fortress of Odenel de Forde, which + experienced so many vicissitudes in its time. One of the most famous + owners of Ford Castle was Sir William Heron, who married Odenel’s + daughter, and who held the responsible and troublesome office of High + Sheriff of Northumberland for eleven years, besides being Captain of + Bamburgh and Warden of the northern forests. The castle was burnt down + by James IV. of Scotland just before the battle of Flodden, which was + not by any means the only time in its career that it was demolished, + entirely or in part, and restored again. +</p> +<p> + In the village of Ford, the walls of the schoolroom are decorated by a + series of pictures of the children of Scripture story, for whose + portrayal it is said the Marchioness of Waterford, the artist, took the + village children as models. The late Vicar of Ford, the Rev. Hastings + Neville, has laid all who are interested in the rural life of + Northumberland, and the quaint and traditional manners and customs of + the North-country which are so fast disappearing, under the greatest + obligation to him for his interesting and entirely delightful little + book, “A Corner in the North.” Historical records, and matters of + business, ownerships, etc., connected with any special area can always + be turned up for reference when required; but the manner of speech, the + customs of daily life, the quaint survivals of former usages and + half-forgotten lore, being entirely dependent on individual memory and + oral tradition, only too often disappear before any adequate record can + be made. Hence it is a matter for congratulation that such a book should + have been written. +</p> +<p> + Etal, Ford’s pretty neighbour, also boasts a castle, built only two + years after that of Ford and by the same masons. A considerable portion + of the ruins remains, but, unlike Ford Castle, it was never restored + after James the Fourth’s drastic handling of it, but was left to decay. + Opposite Ford and Etal, on the left bank of the Till, is Pallinsburn + House, referred to in another chapter, and the village of Crookham; and + beyond the woods of Pallinsburn, Flodden ridge, with its memories of the + disastrous field on which James was slain. +</p> +<p> + The mansion house of Tillmouth Park, owned by Sir Francis Blake, is + built of stones from the ruins of Twizell Castle, on the northern bank + of the Till; the castle was begun by a former Sir Francis Blake but + never finished. Between the two buildings the Berwick Road crosses the + Till by Twizell Bridge, over which Surrey marched his men southward on + the morning of Flodden. Not far from this bridge, to the westward, is + St. Helen’s Well, alluded to by Scott in his account of the battle, in + “Marmion”— +</p> +<pre> + “Many a chief of birth and rank, + St. Helen, at thy fountain drank.” +</pre> +<p> + Sibyl’s well, from which Lady Clare brought water to moisten the lips of + the dying Marmion, is beside the little church at Branxton. Tillmouth, + however, has older memories still; for it was to the little chapel there + that St. Cuthbert’s body floated in its stone coffin from Melrose, + dating the course of its seven years’ wandering, ere it found a final + rest at Durham. +</p> +<pre> + “From sea to sea, from shore to shore, + Seven years Saint Cuthbert’s corpse they bore + They rested them in fair Melrose, + But though alive he loved it well + Not there his relics might repose, + For, wondrous tale to tell, + In his stone coffin forth he glides, + A ponderous bark for river tides, + Yet light as gossamer it glides + Downward to Tillmouth cell. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + Chester-le-Street and Ripon saw + His holy corpse, ere Wardilaw + Hailed it with joy and fear; + Till, after many wanderings past, + He chose his lordly seat at last + Where his cathedral, huge and vast, + Looks down upon the Wear.” + + <i>Sir W. Scott</i>—MARMION. +</pre> +<p> + The “stone coffin” was boat-shaped, “ten feet long, three feet and a + half in diameter, and only four inches thick, so that, with very little + assistance, it might certainly have swum; it still lies, or at least did + so a few years ago, in two pieces, beside the ruined chapel at + Tilmouth.”—<i>Sir W. Scott’s Notes to “Marmion.”</i> +</p> +<p> + Three or four miles from Tillmouth, south-westward up the valley of the + Tweed, and just beyond Cornhill, lies the village of Wark, near which + the remains of the famous Border castle are still standing. The castle + was built on a stony ridge of detritus called the <i>Kaim</i>, which + stretches from Wark village towards Carham. In the reign of Henry I. all + those who owned land in the North were seemingly animated simultaneously + by a lively desire to secure their Borders; Bishop Flambard began to + build Norham Castle, Eustace Fitz-John, husband of Beatrice de Vesci, + built the greater part of Alnwick Castle, and Walter Espic raised the + mighty fortress, the great “Wark” or work (A.S. <i>were</i> or <i>weare</i>) on + the steep ridge above Tweed, in “his honour (seignieury) of Carham.” +</p> +<p> + From that time the castle of Wark went through a greater succession of + sieges, assaults, burnings, surrenders, demolitions, and restorations + than any other place in England, except, perhaps, Norham Castle or + Berwick-upon-Tweed. In an age and situation where hard blows given and + returned, desperate adventures and equal chances of life or death were + the common-places of everyday existence, Wark was probably the place + where these excitements were to be had oftener than anywhere else. +</p> +<p> + The romantic episode which gave rise to the establishment of the Order + of the Garter is generally allowed to have taken place at Wark Castle. + The young king of Scotland, David Bruce, had “ridden a raid” into + England, and ravaged and plundered on his way as far as Auckland, after + having burnt the town of Alnwick, amongst others, but having been + repulsed before the castle. King Edward III. was at Stamford when he + heard of the invasion; but hurrying northward he reached Newcastle in + four days. The Scots, retreating before him, passed Wark Castle, which + was held by the Countess of Salisbury and her nephew, in the absence of + her husband. The young man was loth to let so much English booty be + carried off under his very eyes, so he fell upon the rearguard, and + succeeded in bringing a number of packhorses to the castle. On this the + whole Scottish array turned back, and a siege of the castle began; but + the Countess spiritedly held out, and Edward meanwhile drew nearer. Some + of the Scotsmen were captured, and from them the Countess’s nephew + heard that Edward had reached Alnwick. He stole out of the castle before + dawning in heavy rain, to let the King know where his help was urgently + needed; and by noon of the same day Edward was at Wark, only to find his + quarry flown, the Scots having retreated a few hours earlier. The King + was joyfully received and thanked by the grateful Countess; and he in + his turn was much struck by the beauty and grace of the high-spirited + lady, and showed his admiration plainly. In the evening, according to + tradition, a ball was held, at which the incident occurred, so often + related, of the accidental losing of her garter by the fair chatelaine, + and the restoration of it by the King, with the remark, as a rebuke to + the smiling bystanders,—“<i>Honi soit qui mal y pense.</i>” This he + afterwards adopted as the motto of the Order he established in honour of + the beautiful Countess. +</p> +<p> + The Garter is the most exclusive of Orders, and consists of the reigning + Sovereign and twenty-five Companions, of whom the Prince of Wales is + always one; and it takes precedence of all other titles, ranking next to + royalty. It is a matter of great pride to all Northumbrians that perhaps + the only instance of its having been bestowed on any except a peer of + the realm or a foreign Sovereign, has occurred recently in the bestowal + of the coveted decoration on Sir Edward Grey, a member of the ancient + and important Northumbrian house of that name. +</p> +<p> + Every King of England from Henry I. to Henry IV., seems to have been at + Wark at some time during his reign, with the exception of Richard + Coeur-de-Lion and Richard II. After the Union of the Crowns, Wark, like + most other fortresses in the north that were not in use as the dwellings + of their owners, was allowed to fall into decay. From Wark to Carham is + a walk of only two miles along the road which follows the course of the + river, and ultimately leads to Kelso. Carham has the remains of an + ancient monastery; and here the Danes, after having plundered + Lindisfarne, fought a battle in which the Saxons, led by several + Bishops, were defeated with great slaughter. From Carham, having reached + the last point of interest on the Tweed within the Northumbrian border, + we must retrace our steps to Tillmouth, and follow the Tweed through + pasture land and level haughs, until we come in sight of the steep + cliffs and overhanging woods by Norham Castle. +</p> +<p> + Naturally here, the words of the opening canto of “Marmion” are recalled + to our memory— +</p> +<pre> + “Day set on Norham’s castled steep, + On Tweed’s fair river, broad and deep, + And Cheviot’s mountains lone + The battled towers, the donjon keep, + The loophole grates, where captives weep, + The flanking walls that round it sweep, + In yellow lustre shone.” +</pre> +<p> + The “castled steep” is still crowned by a massive fragment of the old + fortress that has braved, in its time, so many days of storm and stress. + A good deal of the curtain wall, too, is standing, and the natural + defences of the castle are admirable, for a deep ravine on the east and + the river with its steep banks on the south made it practically + unassailable at these points. It was built in 1121, as we have seen, by + Bishop Flambard of Durham, as a defence for the northern portions of his + diocese. The necessity for its presence there was soon made apparent, + for it was attacked by the Scots again and again; and by the time thirty + years had passed. Bishop Pudsey found it necessary to strengthen it + greatly. When Edward I. was called to arbitrate between the claimants + to the Scottish throne, he came to Norham and met the rival nobles, who, + with their followers, were quartered at Ladykirk, on the opposite side + of the Tweed. It was known as Upsettlington then, however; the name of + Ladykirk was bestowed upon it long afterwards, when James IV. built the + little chapel there, in gratitude for an escape from drowning in the + Tweed. Edward held his interview with the Scottish nobles in Norham + church, and announced that he had come there in the character of lord + paramount, and as such was prepared to make choice of one among them. + Edward did not by any means make up his mind quickly, and the various + places in which the successive acts in the affair took place are widely + scattered, for he met the nobles at Norham, some time afterwards + delivered his decision at Berwick, and finally received the homage of + John Balliol at Newcastle. +</p> +<p> + Norham, like Wark, has also its romantic episode—or rather, an episode + more conspicuously so in a series of them to which the name might with + justice be applied. It occurred during the time that Sir Thomas Gray was + holding the castle against a determined blockade of it by the Scots in + 1318. A certain fair lady of Lincolnshire sent one of her maidens to a + knight whom she loved, Sir William Marmion (whose name probably + suggested to Sir Walter Scott the name for the hero of his tale of + Norham and Flodden). Sir William was at a banquet when the maiden came + before him bearing a helmet with a golden crest, together with a letter + from his lady bidding him go “into the daungerust place in England, and + there to let the heaulme be seene and knowen as famose.” Evidently it + was well known where “the daungerust place in England” was to be found, + for the story laconically says “So he went to Norham.” He had not been + there more than a day or two when a band of nearly two hundred Scots, + bold and expert horsemen, led by Philip de Mowbray, made an attack on + the castle, rousing Sir Thomas and his garrison from their dinner. They + quickly mounted, and were about to sally forth when Sir Thomas caught + sight of Marmion, in rich armour, and on his head the helmet with the + golden crest; and halting his men, he cried out, “Sir knight, ye be come + hither as a knight-errant to fame your helm; and since deeds of chivalry + should rather be done on horseback than on foot, mount up on your horse, + and spur him like a valiant knight into the midst of your enemies here + at hand, and I forsake God if I rescue not thy body dead or alive, or I + myself will die for it.” At this Marmion mounted and spurred towards the + Scots, by whom he was instantly set upon, wounded, and dragged from the + saddle. But before they had time to give him the final blow they were + scattered by the rapid charge of Sir Thomas and his men, who quickly + rescued Marmion and set him on his horse again; and using their lances + against the horses of the Scots, caused many of them to throw their + riders, while the rest galloped away. The women of the castle caught + fifty of the riderless horses, on which more of the garrison mounted and + joined in the pursuit of the flying Scots, whom they chased nearly to + Berwick. +</p> +<p> + The tables were sometimes turned, however; and on one of these occasions + the valiant Sir Thomas Gray and his son were enticed out of the castle + into an ambush laid for them by their foes, and both captured. +</p> +<p> + In 1513, just before the battle of Flodden, its walls were at length + laid low by James IV., but not until the famous cannon “Mons + Meg”—still, I believe, to be seen at Edinburgh Castle—had been brought + against it. One of the cannon-balls fired from “Mons Meg” was found, + and is still kept with others at the Castle. It is said that the Scots + were told of the weakest spot in the fortifications by a treacherous + inmate of the castle, who doubtless expected a rich reward for his + information. Indeed, the ballad of “Flodden” says he came for it; but + the valiant and chivalrous king would give him no reward but that which + he said every traitor deserved—a rope. +</p> +<p> + Afterwards the castle was restored once more, but its more stirring days + were over; and, to-day, it stands a shattered but dignified ruin, + overlooking the tranquil river and peaceful woodlands which once echoed + so continuously to the clash of arms and the shouts of besiegers and + besieged. +</p> +<p> + The village of Norham was in Saxon days known as Ubbanford—the Upper + Ford of two that were available in those days on the Tweed. There was a + church here, too, in Saxon times, for Bishop Ecfrid built one about the + year 830, and in it was buried the Saxon king Ceolwulf who became a + monk: the present church has a good deal remaining of the one built on + the same site by Bishop Flambard, about the same time as the castle. + Earl Gospatric, whom William the Conqueror made Earl of Northumberland + in return for a considerable sum of money—doubtless thinking that to + give a Northumbrian the Earldom would reconcile the North to his + rule—is buried in the church porch. Gospatric joined in the resistance + of the North to William, but returned to his allegiance later. The + Market Cross of Norham stands on the original base. +</p> +<p> + From Norham to Tweedmouth the river sweeps forward between picturesque + ever-widening banks, and often hidden by a leafy screen, past the + village of Horncliffe, beneath the Union Suspension Bridge, one of the + first erected of its kind, until at length its bright waters lave the + historic walls of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and in the quiet harbour there + meet the inrushing tide from the North Sea. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap09"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br/>DRUM AND TRUMPET.</h2> + +<p> + “The history of Northumberland is essentially a drum and trumpet + history, from the time when the <i>buccina</i> of the Batavian cohort first + rang out over the moors of Procolitia down to the proclamation of James + III. at Warkworth Cross”—<i>Cadwallader J Bates</i>. +</p> +<p> + This sentence of the historian of Northumberland sums up the story of + our northern county no less admirably than tersely, and it would be + difficult to find one which should more clearly bring before us the + whole atmosphere of north-country history and north-country doings for + many centuries. +</p> +<p> + Within the limits of this chapter it is impossible to go into the + details of every “foughten field” within the county; the most that can + be done is to indicate the many and treat in detail only the few. A + goodly number have already been alluded to in connection with the place + where each occurred. +</p> +<p> + After the Roman campaigns, from those of Agricola to those of Theodosius + the elder and Maximus, and the legion sent by Stilicho, the earliest + battle story is that of the one in Glendale fought by King Arthur. Then + the forming of the kingdom of Bernicia with the advent of Ida at + Bamburgh was the beginning of a long-protracted struggle between the + various little states, each fighting for its life, and surrounded by + others equally determined to take every advantage that offered against + it. The sons of Ida fought against the celebrated Urien, a Keltic + chief, who almost succeeded in dispossessing them of their kingdom of + Bernicia. Hussa, one of Ida’s sons, ultimately vanquished Urien’s son + Owen, “chief of the glittering West”; and after Hussa’s death Ethelric + of Bernicia, as we have seen, overcame the neighbouring chieftain of + Deira, thus forming the kingdom of Northumbria. His successor, + Ethelfrith, in the year 603 gained a great victory over a large force of + northern Britons under a leader named Aedan at a place called + Daegsanstan, which is thought to be Dissington, near Newcastle. His + further victories were gained outside the limits of our present survey. +</p> +<p> + After the long and glorious reign of Edwin, his successor, Ethelfrith’s + sons came back to Bamburgh; the eldest, Eanfrid, was slain within a + year, and his brother Oswald carried on the struggle against Penda of + Mercia. We have seen how he fought against Penda and Cadwallon on the + Heavenfield near Chollerford, and gained a victory which obtained for + him many years of peace. Penda was finally slain by Oswald’s successor + Oswy in a great battle which is supposed to have taken place on the + banks of the Tweed. +</p> +<p> + Many years afterwards, Sitric, grandson of that Prince Guthred who was + once a slave at Whittingham, married a sister of King Athelstan, + grandson of Alfred the Great. When Sitric died, Athelstan came northward + to claim Northumbria for himself. He captured Bamburgh—the first time + that stronghold of the Bernician kings had ever been taken—and arranged + for two earls to govern Northumbria for him. They attempted + unsuccessfully to oppose a force of Scots under Anlaf the Red, who was + joined by two earls of Bretland (Cumbria); and the whole force encamped + near a place called Weondune, supposed to be Wandon near Chatton. + Athelstan advanced against them and challenged them to a pitched battle + on this ground. They agreed, and with much deliberation the course was + staked out with hazel wands between a wood and a river (Chillingham + woods and the Till). The Scots greatly outnumbered Athelstan’s men, who + set up their tents at the narrowest part of the plain, giving their king + time to reach a little “burg” (Old Bewick) in the neighbourhood. A + running fight followed, which was carried on the next day, and with the + help of two brothers, Egil and Thorold, who were Norsemen, it ended in a + complete victory for Athelstan. While in the north, King Athelstan gave + the well-known rhyming charter to a certain Paulan of Roddam; +</p> +<pre> + “I kyng Adelstan + giffs hier to Paulan + Oddam and Roddam + als gud and als fair + als evyr thai myne war, + and thar to wytness + Mald my Wiffe.” +</pre> +<p> + Shortly after this, at the Battle of Brunanburh, Athelstan vanquished + Anlaf Sitricsson and Constantine, king of the Scots. The site of this + battle would seem to have been in Northumbria, as it was into the Humber + that Anlaf and Constantine sailed with their large fleet; but the + precise spot has never been determined. +</p> +<p> + In the reign of Knut the Dane, the Scots obtained the whole of Lothian + from the Saxon earl of Northumberland, and the vast possessions of St. + Cuthbert beyond the Tweed seemed about to be lost to the church of + Durham. Accordingly, the clergy called upon all the people of St. + Cuthbert from the Tees to the Tweed—all those, that is, who dwelt on + lands granted by various donors to the church of St. Cuthbert—to rise + and march northward to fight for their lands. This great company set + out, in the autumn of 1018, and reached Carham on the Tweed, where they + were met by Malcolm king of the Scots. A comet had been seen in the sky + for some weeks and the fears inspired by this dread visitant seem to + have had more effect upon the Northumbrians than upon the Scots. From + whatever cause it arose, when the two forces joined in battle a panic + spread among the followers of St. Cuthbert. They were utterly routed, + and most of the leading Northumbrians as well as eighteen priests were + slain—thus curiously repeating the experience of the earlier battle of + Carham. +</p> +<p> + For the next three hundred years Northumberland was swept by successive + waves of raid and reprisal, in the course of which occurred the two + well-known events, the attack of William the Lion of Scotland on Alnwick + Castle, and the more famous affair still, the struggle between Percy and + Douglas known as the battle of Otterburn, which was fought in “Chevy Chase” + (Cheviot Forest). More important poetically than politically, it stands out + more vividly in the records of the time than many other conflicts of larger + import. The personal element in the fight, the deeds of gallantry recorded, + the sounding roll of the chief knights’ names, and the high renown of the + two leaders, throw a glamour around this particular contest which is kept + alive by the ballads that chant the praises of Percy or Douglas according + as the singer was Scot or Saxon. Sir Philip Sidney, that “verray parfit + gentil knight” and discriminating <i>litterateur</i>, said “I never heard + the old song of Percie and Douglas that I found not my hart mooved more + than with a trumpet: and yet it is sung but by some blynd Crowder,<a + href="#fn-11" name="fnref-11" id="fnref-11"><sup>[11]</sup></a> with no + rougher voyce than rude stile! which beeing so evill apparelled in the dust + and cobweb of that uncivill age, what wolde it work trimmed in the gorgeous + eloquence of Pindare!” +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-11" id="fn-11"></a> <a href="#fnref-11">[11]</a> +Crowder = fiddler. +</p> + +<p> + In the endless warfare of the Borders the second of two short-lived + periods of truce had just expired, and an organised raid on a large + scale was arranged by the Scots. The main body was to ravage Cumberland; + and a smaller, but picked force led by Earls Douglas, Moray, and March + came southward by way of Northumberland. But Northumbrian towers and + towns knew nothing of their passing; they marched rapidly and by stealth + into Durham, having crossed the Tyne between Corbridge and Bywell, and + began to harry and lay waste the greener pastures and richer villages of + the southern county, the smoke of whose burning homesteads was the first + intimation to the unlucky English of the fact that a Scottish host was + in their midst. +</p> +<p> + The Earl of Northumberland remained at Alnwick in the hope that he might + be able to attack the Scots on their homeward journey; but he despatched + his sons Henry Hotspur and Ralph in all haste to defend Newcastle. The + Scots in due time appeared before the walls. +</p> +<pre> + And he marched up to Newcastel + And rode it round about; + “O wha’s the lord o’ this castel? + Or wha’s the lady o’t?” + + But up spake proud Lord Percy then, + And O but he spake hie! + “I am the lord o’ this castel, + My wife’s the lady gay.” +</pre> +<p> + Douglas challenged Percy to meet him in single combat, and Percy + promptly accepted. In the duel Percy was unhorsed, and Douglas captured + his pennon and his gauntlet gloves, embroidered with the Percy lion in + pearls. This trophy Douglas vowed he would carry off to Scotland with + him, and set it in the topmost tower of his castle of Dalkeith, that it + might be seen from afar. “By heaven! that you never shall,” replied + Percy; “you shall not carry it out of Northumberland.” “Come and take + it, then,” was Douglas’ answer; and Hotspur would have attempted its + recovery there and then, but he was restrained by his knights. Douglas, + however, said he would give Percy a chance to recover it, and agreed to + await him at Otterburn. +</p> +<pre> + “Yet I will stay at Otterbourne, + Where you shall welcome be; + And if ye come not at three dayis end, + A fause lord I’ll call thee” +</pre> +<p> + Next day the Scots left Newcastle and marched northward. They took Sir + Aymer de Athol’s castle of Ponte-land, and the good knight Sir Aymer + himself, and went on their way, harrying and burning as they went. At + Otterburn they halted, and rested all night, making huts for themselves + of boughs and branches. The spot they had chosen was a strong one, on + the site of a former British camp; and not only was it surrounded by + trees, but was near marshy ground as well. Next day they attempted to + take Otterburn tower, but without success. +</p> +<p> + Meanwhile word was brought to Hotspur that the Scots would spend the + night at Otterburn; and he, without waiting for Walter de Skirlaw, + Bishop of Durham, who was expected that evening with a strong force, at + once set off with 600 spearmen, and a force on foot which is variously + given as anything from 800 to 8,000. They covered the thirty-odd miles + by the time evening fell: and as the Scots were at supper in their + little huts, they were startled by a tumult amongst their grooms and + camp-followers, and cries of “a Percy! a Percy!” and the Englishmen were + among them. The Scottish leaders had placed their camp-followers and + servants at the outermost; part of their encampment, facing the + Newcastle road; and Hotspur’s force, ignorant of this, mistook it for + the main camp. While they were thus engaged, the Scottish knights were + enabled to make a detour around the scene of the first attack, and take + the English in the rear. With loud shouts of “Douglas! Douglas!” they + fell upon them, and a fierce hand-to-hand struggle began. The moon rose + clear and bright, and the quiet evening air was filled with the din of + battle, the ring of steel on steel, the crash of axe on armour, the + groans of the wounded, and the battle-cries of the combatants on each + side. Sir Ralph Percy, pressing too rashly forward, was captured by a + newly-made Scottish knight, Sir John Maxwell. The battle was turning in + favour of Hotspur, when Douglas sent his silken banner to the front and + with renewed shouts of “Douglas!” the Scots pressed forward and overbore + their foes. According to Froissart, there was not a man there, knight, + squire, or groom, who played the coward. “This bataylle was one of the + sorest and best foughten without cowards or faynte hearts; for there was + neither knight nor I squire but that did his devoyre and foughte hande + to hande.” Great deeds were done, and the fame of none amongst them is + greater than that of the gallant Widdrington; +</p> +<pre> + “For Witherington my heart is woe, + That ever he slaine sholde be! + For when his legs were hewn in two + He knelt and fought on his knee” +</pre> +<p> + Douglas rushed into the thickest of the fray, and Hotspur tried to find + him, but in the dim light that was difficult, especially as Douglas + had, in his haste, come to the fight without helmet or breastplate. + Presently he was borne to the ground by three English spears; and as he + lay guarded by his faithful chaplain, Sir John and Sir Walter Sinclair, + with Sir James Lindsay, came upon him. “How fare you, cousin?” asked Sir + John. “But poorly, I thank God,” answered Douglas; “for few of my + ancestors died in bed or chamber. I count myself dead, for my heart + beats slow. Think now to avenge me. Raise my banner and shout ‘Douglas!’ + and let neither my friends nor my foes know of my state, lest the one + rejoice and the other be discomforted.” His dying commands were obeyed; + and while his battle-cry was raised anew, his dead body was laid by a + “bracken bush,” and the fact of his death concealed from friend and foe + alike. The furious onslaught of the Scots now carried all before them; + and Hotspur fell a captive to the sword of Sir Hugh Montgomery, a nephew + of Douglas, after a fierce hand-to-hand encounter. The two chief English + leaders being captured, the day, or rather the night, was with the + Scots, in fulfilment of an old prophesy that “a dead Douglas should win + a field.” +</p> +<pre> + “This deed was done at Otterbourne + At the breaking of the day; + Earl Douglas was buried at the braken bush, + And the Percy led captive away.” +</pre> +<p> + When the fray was over, the two sides treated their captives with + knightly courtesy, many being allowed to go to their homes until they + recovered from their wounds, on giving their word of honour to send the + amount of their ransom, or themselves return to their captors. +</p> +<p> + The Bishop of Durham, immediately after having had some refreshment at + Newcastle, had set out to join the Percies; but as he and his men + neared Otterburn, they met so many fugitives who gave them anything but + reassuring accounts of the fortunes of their friends, that half of his + force melted away, and the Bishop had perforce to return to Newcastle; + it was scarcely to be expected, indeed, that everyone should have that + thirst for hard blows which distinguished the knights and their + immediate followers. The Bishop, however, made one capture—Sir James + Lindsay, who had ridden so far in pursuit of Sir Matthew Redman that he + found himself amongst the force advancing under the leadership of the + warlike prelate. +</p> +<p> + When the Scots retired from their camp, they took the body of Douglas + from the “bracken bush” where it lay, and carried it away for burial in + Melrose Abbey; and Hotspur, as the price of his ransom, built a castle + for Sir Hugh Montgomery. +</p> +<p> + After this there was peace on the Borders for the next ten years or so, + when the game began again as merrily as ever. When Sir Thomas Gray was + absent from his castle of Wark-on-Tweed, attending Parliament, the Scots + came down upon it and carried off his children and servants. Sir Robert + Umfraville met and checked another company that were harrying + Coquetdale. In the year 1400, Henry Bolingbroke himself led an army to + Edinburgh; but a guerilla band of Scots, avoiding his line of march, + stole behind him and ravaged Bamburghshire. +</p> +<p> + Two years after this, a party of Scots under the next Douglas rode into + Northumberland, coming nearly as far south as Newcastle. Hotspur set off + from Bamburgh, of which castle he was Constable at the time, to + intercept them. He awaited them on the banks of the Glen, near Wooler; + and the archers of his force went out for forage meanwhile. When the + Scots arrived, they found themselves in the presence of an enemy whom + they had imagined to be behind them, and they immediately occupied + Homildon Hill. The archers, returning, saw the Scottish force on the + hill, and began the attack forthwith, letting fly their arrows upon the + foe with deadly precision. Flight after flight fell upon the Scots, who + were completely bewildered, and seemed incapable of action. A Scottish + knight, Sir John Swinton, implored the leaders to charge, passionately + exclaiming, “What madness has seized you, my brave countrymen, that you + stand here like deer to be shot down? Follow me, those who will! We will + either gain the victory, or die like men of courage.” +</p> +<p> + On hearing these brave words, Adam de Gordon, Swinton’s deadly foe, felt + his hatred turn to admiration, and kneeling before Swinton, begged that + he might receive the honour of knighthood from so valiant a hand. The + two gallant knights then charged the enemy, followed by a number of the + Scots; but the showers of arrows forced them to retreat towards the + river, and thither also moved the whole Scottish force, followed still + by that grim and deadly hail from the English bows. Hotspur would now + have charged, but the Earl of March, his former antagonist, now his + friend, restrained his impetuous leader, and persuaded him to let the + archers continue their effective work. +</p> +<p> + The event proved his wisdom; the Scots were utterly routed by the + archers alone. The unfortunate Archibald Douglas added another to his + long list of reverses; he was taken prisoner, sorely wounded, as was + also Sir Hugh Montgomery, and over four-score others of importance. It + was in connection with these prisoners, whom Hotspur refused to deliver + up to Bolingbroke, that the quarrel took place which eventually led + Northumberland and his son Hotspur openly to throw off their allegiance + to Henry Bolingbroke and join in the rebellion of Owen Glendower. Not + only did Hotspur refuse to give up Douglas and the others to King Henry, + but he wished Henry to ransom his brother-in-law Mortimer. +</p> +<pre> + <i>K. Henry</i>. But sirrah, henceforth + Let me not hear you speak of Mortimer. + Send me your prisoners with the speediest means, + Or you shall hear in such a kind from me + As will displease you.—My lord Northumberland, + We licence your departure with your son.— + Send us your prisoners, or you’ll hear of it. +</pre> +<p> + (<i>Exeunt</i> K. Henry, Blunt, <i>and train</i>) +</p> +<pre> + <i>Hotspur</i>. And if the devil come and roar for them + I will not send them:—I will after, straight, + And tell him so. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + <i>Worcester</i>. These same noble Scots + That are your prisoners— + + <i>Hotspur</i>. I’ll keep them all; + By heaven, he shall not have a Scot of them; + No, if a Scot would save his soul, he shall not; + I’ll keep them, by this hand. + + <i>Worcester</i>. You start away, + And lend no ear unto my purposes. + Those prisoners you shall keep.— + + <i>Hotspur</i>. Nay, I will, that’s flat:— + He said he would not ransom Mortimer; + Forbade my tongue to speak of Mortimer; + But I will find him when he lies asleep, + And in his ear I’ll holla “Mortimer!” + Nay, I’ll have a starling shall be taught to speak + Nothing but “Mortimer,” and give it him + To keep his anger still in motion. + + <i>The First Part of</i> KING HENRY IV., <i>Act I., Scene 3</i>. +</pre> +<p> + The fight at Homildon Hill took place on a Monday in August, 1402, and + the memory of it is kept alive by the name of the “Monday Clough” near + Wooler, where the archers commenced the fight. +</p> +<p> + More than a hundred years after this, the last, and in many respects the + greatest, battle ever fought on Northumbrian soil took place at Flodden. + King James IV. of Scotland had several grievances against England, which + had rankled in his mind for some time; he had not yet received the full + amount of the dowry which had been promised with his wife, Margaret + Tudor, sister of Henry VIII., although they had been married for many + years; a Scottish noble, Sir Robert Ker, had been killed in + Northumberland, and the slayer could not be found to be brought to + justice—he was outlawed, but that seemed to King James very + insufficient; a Border raid on a large scale, led by Lord Hume, had met + with disastrous defeat on Milfield Plain at the hands of Sir William + Bulmer; and Andrew Barton, a notable sea-captain, whom James was looking + forward to seeing as one of the best leaders of his new navy, had been + killed in a sea-fight by Thomas Howard, Lord Admiral of England. Added + to all this, France had appealed to him to invade England in order to + force Henry VIII. to abandon his French war; the English monarch was + just then conducting the siege of Terouenne, and the Queen of France + sent a romantic appeal to James (together with a large sum of money) + begging him to march “three feet on to English ground” for her sake. +</p> +<p> + No time could have been more favourable in James’ eyes for the + enterprise; and in a very short space of time he had an army of 100,000 + men collected, and marched from Edinburgh to the Tweed, which he crossed + near Coldstream. He laid siege to Norham, and captured it after a week’s + investment; and thereafter Wark, Ford, Etal, Duddo and Chillingham fell + before him. He took up his quarters at Ford Castle, and on marching + later to meet Surrey, left it almost in ruins. +</p> +<p> + Surrey meantime had gathered a large force from the northern counties, + much to James’ surprise, for he had taken it for granted that nearly + every English fighting man would be with Henry in Flanders. There were + bowmen and billmen from Cheshire and Lancashire under the Stanley + banner; and James Stanley, Bishop of Ely, brought the banner of St. + Etheldreda, the Northumbrian queen who founded the monastery of Ely. + Admiral Sir Thomas Howard brought a band of sailors to join his father + at Alnwick. Dacre came with a strong contingent from the western + Marches, men from Alston Moor, Gilsland, and Eskdale, and also some from + Tynemouth and Bamburgh; and Sir Brian Tunstall with Sir William Bulmer + led the men of the Bishopric under the banner of St. Cuthbert. +</p> +<p> + From Alnwick Surrey sent a letter pledging himself to meet James by + September 9th, and challenging him to battle, a challenge which was + promptly accepted by the Scottish king. Marching from Alnwick towards + the Scottish army, Surrey encamped on September 6th on Wooler Haughs. + James had formed his camp on Flodden Hill, and all Surrey’s devices + could not induce him abandon this strong position. Many of his own + nobles advised him not to risk a battle, but to withdraw while there was + yet time; and some were ready to leave the camp and return home, which + thousands of the more undisciplined in his army had done already, being + more anxious to carry off their plunder safely than to stay and fight. + But James was eager for the contest, and felt himself bound in honour to + give battle to Surrey; he answered haughtily those who counselled + retreat, and scornfully told Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, that he + might go home if he were afraid. The old man sorrowfully left the field, + but his two sons remained with their rash but gallant king, and were + both slain. +</p> +<p> + On the day before the battle took place, Surrey, that “auld crooked + carle,” as James called him, marched his men northward across the Till + and encamped for the night near Barmoor Wood. To the Scots this looked + as though they had gone off towards Berwick, to repeat James’ own + manoeuvre, and invade the country in the absence of its king; and they + must have thought that there would be little chance of the battle for + which James had punctiliously waited taking place on the morrow. But + Surrey’s purpose proved to be quite otherwise. On the following morning + he sent the vanguard of his army, with the artillery, to make a detour + of several miles round by Twizell bridge, where they re-crossed to the + south bank of the Till; and coming south-eastward towards Flodden, they + were joined by the rest of the army, which had plunged through the + stream, swollen by continuous rains, at two points near Crookham. The + two divisions met at Branxton, after having waded through a marsh which + extended from Branxton nearly to the Till, and which the Scots had + thought impassable. +</p> +<p> + Seeing that the English were about to occupy Branxton Hill, which would + entirely cut him off from communication with Scotland, James was forced + to abandon his advantageous position; he gave orders for the camp-refuse + to be fired, and under cover of the dense clouds of smoke marched down + to forestall Surrey and occupy Branxton ridge. The two armies suddenly + found themselves within a few spears’ length of each other, and the + battle was begun by the artillery on both sides. +</p> +<pre> + Sudden, as he spoke, + From the sharp ridges of the hill, + All downward to the banks of Till + Was wreathed in sable smoke. + Volumed, and vast, and rolling far, + The cloud enveloped Scotland’s war + As down the hill they broke; + Nor martial shout, nor minstrel tone + Announced their march; their tread alone, + At times one warning trumpet blown, + At times a stifled hum. + Told England, from his mountain throne + King James did rushing come. + Scarce could they hear or see their foes + Until at weapon-point they close. +</pre> +<p> + Many of the raw levies on the English side fled at the first sound of + the Scottish cannon; but the master of the ordnance, Lord Sinclair, was + killed, and his guns silenced. Then the battle joined, and the first + result was that the English right wing under Sir Edmund Howard was + scattered and broken before the impetuous charge of the Gordons and + Highlanders under the Earl of Huntley and Lord Home. Sir Edmund narrowly + escaped with his life; but Lord Dacre bringing up his reserve of + horsemen at that moment checked the further advance of the Scots. The + two central divisions of the armies engaged each other fiercely, the + Earl of Surrey, with his son Sir Thomas Howard commanding the English + centre, and King James, with the Earls of Crawford and Montrose that of + the Scots. Sir Thomas, after having been so hard pressed as to send the + <i>Agnus Dei</i> he wore to his father as a signal for help, afterwards with + Sir Marmaduke Constable defeated the Earl of Crawford, whose division + was opposed to him. Dacre and Sir Thomas now charged Lord Home and + drove him some little way back, but could not dislodge his men entirely + from their position. The Earl of Bothwell, who commanded the Scottish + reserves, now came up to the help of the king, and the day seemed about + to be decided in favour of the Scots, when Lord Stanley, on the English + left, exactly reversed the fortunes of the right wing, and scattered and + routed the Highlanders led by the Earls of Lennox and Argyle. Then with + his Lancashire lads he attacked the rear of the Scottish position, as + did also Dacre and Sir Thomas Howard. +</p> +<pre> + “They saw Lord Marmion’s falcon fly, + And stainless Tunstall’s banner white + And Edmund Howard’s lion bright + All bear them bravely in the fight, + Although against them come + Of gallant Gordons many a one, + And many a stubborn Highlandman, + And many a rugged Border clan + With Huntly and with Home. + Far on the left, unseen the while, + Stanley broke Lennox and Argyle.” +</pre> +<p> + Nothing now remained for the Scottish centre, hemmed in on all sides, + but to make a stubborn last stand; and gallantly did they do it. The + flower of Scotland’s chivalry surrounded their brave monarch, and in the + falling dusk fought desperately to guard their king. +</p> +<pre> + “No thought was there of dastard flight; + Linked in that serried phalanx tight, + Groom fought like noble, squire like knight, + As fearlessly and well. + The stubborn spearmen still made good + Their dark impenetrable wood, + Each stepping where his comrade stood + The instant that he fell.” +</pre> +<p> + As night fell, the fierce struggle continued until the darkness made it + impossible to see friend or foe, but the fate of Scotland’s bravest was + sealed. The king lay dead, covered with wounds, and around him a heap of + slain; those who were able made their way in haste from the field, while + the English host encamped where it stood. The more lawless in each army + plundered both sides impartially, and when the king’s body was found + next day, it too was stripped like many others around it. +</p> +<pre> + “Then did their loss his foemen know, + Their king, their lords, their mightiest low, + They melted from the field as snow + Dissolves in silent dew. + Tweed’s echoes heard the ceaseless plash + While many a broken band, + Disordered, through its currents dash + To gain the Scottish land; + To town and tower, to down and dale, + To tell red Flodden’s dismal tale, + And raise the universal wail.” +</pre> +<p> + The tragic effects of that terrible day were long felt in Scotland. + Every family of note in the land lost one or more of its members on the + fatal field, besides the thousands of humbler beings who fell at the + same time. Scotland did not recover from the crushing blow for more than + a hundred years; and for many a day the people could not believe that + their gallant king was really slain, but continued to hope that he had + escaped in the darkness, and would one day return. +</p> +<p> + There has recently been erected on Flodden Field a simple cross of stone + as a memorial of that tragic day. It was unveiled on September 27th, + 1910, by Sir George Douglas, Bart. The inscription on the stone is “To + the Brave of both Nations.” +</p> +<pre> + THE FLOWERS OF THE FOREST. +</pre> +<pre> + A LAMENT FOR FLODDEN. + + I’ve heard the liltin’ at our ewe-milking, + Lasses a’ liltin’ before dawn o’ day; + But now they are moaning on ilka green loaning— + The Flowers of the Forest are a’ wede away. + + At bughts,<a href="#fn-12" name="fnref-12" id="fnref-12"><sup>[12]</sup></a> in the mornin’, nae blythe lads are scornin’, + Lasses are lonely and dowie and wae; + Nae daffin’, nae jabbin’, but sighin’ and sabbin’, + Ilk ane lifts her leglin<a href="#fn-13" name="fnref-13" id="fnref-13"><sup>[13]</sup></a> and hies her away. + + In harst, at the shearing, nae youths now are jeering, + Bandsters are lyart,<a href="#fn-14" name="fnref-14" id="fnref-14"><sup>[14]</sup></a> and runkled, and gray; + At fair or at preaching, nae wooing, nae fleeching<a href="#fn-15" name="fnref-15" id="fnref-15"><sup>[15]</sup></a> + The Flowers of the Forest are a’ wede away. + + At e’en, in the gloaming, nae younkers are roaming + ’Bout stacks, with the lasses at “bogle” to play; + But ilk ane sits drearie, lamenting her dearie— + The Flowers of the Forest are weded away. + + Dool and wae for the order sent our lads to the Border! + The English for ance by guile wan the day; + The Flowers of the Forest, that fought aye the foremost, + The prime of our land, are cauld in the clay. + + We’ll hear nae mair liltin’ at our ewe-milkin’; + Women and bairns are heartless and wae; + Sighing and moaning on ilka green loaning— + The Flowers of the Forest are a’ wede away. +</pre> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-12" id="fn-12"></a> <a href="#fnref-12">[12]</a> +Bughts = sheep-pens. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-13" id="fn-13"></a> <a href="#fnref-13">[13]</a> +Leglin = milk-pail. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-14" id="fn-14"></a> <a href="#fnref-14">[14]</a> +Lyart = grizzled. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"> +<a name="fn-15" id="fn-15"></a> <a href="#fnref-15">[15]</a> +Fleeching = coaxing. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap10"></a>CHAPTER X.<br/>TALES AND LEGENDS.</h2> + +<p> + Northumberland, as might be guessed from its wild history, is rich in + tales of daring and stories of gallant deeds; there are true tales, as + well as legendary ones, which latter, after all, may be true in + substance though not in detail, in spirit and possibility though not in + a certain sequence of facts. Now-a-days we look upon dragons as fabulous + animals, and stories of the destruction they wrought, their fierceness + and their might are dismissed with a smile, and mentally relegated to a + place amongst the fairy tales that delighted our childhood’s days, when + the idea of belief or disbelief simply did not enter the question. Yet + what are the dragon stories but faint memories of those gigantic and + fearsome beasts which roamed the earth in the “dim, red dawn of + man”—their names, as we read the labels on their skeletons in our + museums, being now the most fearsome things about them! No one can deny + that the ichthyosaurus, plesiosaurus, and all the rest of their tribe + did exist; and were they to be encountered in these days would spread + the same terror around, and find man almost as helpless before them as + did any fierce dragon of the fairy tales. That part of the legends, + therefore, has its foundation in fact; though from the nature of the + case, we certainly do not possess an authenticated account of any + particular contest between primitive man and one of these gigantic + creatures. That oldest Northumbrian poem, however, the “Beowulf,” + chants the praises of its hero’s prowess in encounters of the kind; and + the north-country still has its legends of the Sockburn Worm, the + Lambton Worm, and the “Laidly” Worm of Spindleston Heugh, the two first + having their <i>venue</i> in Durham, and the last in Northumberland. The + Spindlestone, a high crag not far from Bamburgh, and Bamburgh Castle + itself, form the scene of this well-known legend. The fair Princess + Margaret, daughter of the King of Bamburgh was turned into a “laidly + worm” (loathly or loathsome serpent) by her wicked stepmother, who was + jealous of the lovely maid. The whole district was in terror of this + dreadful monster, which desolated the country-side in its search for + food. +</p> +<pre> + “For seven miles east and seven miles west + And seven miles north and south, + No blade of grass or corn would grow, + So deadly was her mouth. + + The milk of seven streakit cows + It was her cost to kepe, + They brought her dayly, whyche she drank + Before she wente to slepe.” +</pre> +<p> + This offering proved successful in pacifying the creature, and it + remained in the cave at Spindleston, coming out daily to drink its fill + from the trough prepared for it. But the fear of it in no wise + diminished, and +</p> +<pre> + “Word went east, and word went west, + And word is gone over the sea, + That a laidly worm in Spindleston Heugh + Would ruin the North Countree.” +</pre> +<p> + The news in due course comes to the ears of Princess Margaret’s only + brother, the Childe Wynde, who is away seeking fame and fortune abroad. + In fear for his lovely sister, he calls together his “merry men all,” + and they set to work to build a ship +</p> +<pre> + “With masts of the rowan-tree,” +</pre> +<p> + a sure defence against the spells of witchcraft; and hoisting their + silken sails they hasten homeward. +</p> +<pre> + “... ... The wind with speed + Blew them along the deep. + The sea was calm, the weather clear, + When they approached nigher; + King Ida’s castle well they knew, + And the banks of Bamburghshire.” +</pre> +<p> + The wicked queen saw the little bark coming near, and knew that her + guilt was about to meet its reward. In haste she tried to wreck the + vessel, but the rowan-tree masts made her spells of no avail. Then she + bade her servants go to the beach and oppose the landing of the Childe + and his crew; but the servants were beaten back, and the young knight + and his men landed in Budle Bay. The worm came fiercely to the attack, + as the Childe Wynde advanced against it; but on meeting him, and feeling + the touch of his “berry-brown sword,” it besought him to do it no harm. +</p> +<pre> + “‘O quit thy sword, unbend thy brow, + And give me kisses three; + For though I be a laidly worm + No harm I’ll do to thee. + + O quit thy sword, unbend thy brow, + And give me kisses three; + If I’m not won ere the sun goes down + Won shall I never be.’ + + He quitted his sword, and smoothed his brow, + And gave her kisses three; + She crept intill the hole a worm, + And came out a fayre ladie.” +</pre> +<p> + The knight clasped his lovely sister in his arms, and, casting around + her his crimson cloak, led her back to her home, where the trembling + queen awaited them. Her doom was spoken by the Childe Wynde— +</p> +<pre> + “Woe be to thee, thou wicked witch; + An ill death mayst thou dee! + As thou hast likened my sister dear, + So likened shalt thou be” +</pre> +<p> + and he turned her into the likeness of an ugly toad, in which hateful + shape she remained to her dying day, wandering around the castle and the + green fields, an object of hatred to all who saw her. The + “Spindlestone,” a tall crag on which the young knight hung his bridle, + when he went further on to seek the worm in the “heugh,” is still to be + seen, but the huge trough from which the worm was said to drink has been + destroyed. +</p> +<p> + There are two legends somewhat similar to each other which are told of a + company held in the spell of a magic sleep, to be awakened by certain + devices, in which the blowing of a horn and the drawing of a sword are + prominent. One is the story of “Sir Guy the Seeker,” and is told of + Dunstanborough Castle. Sir Guy sought refuge in the Castle from a storm; + and while within the walls a spectre form with flaming hair addressed + him, +</p> +<pre> + “Sir knight, Sir knight, if your heart be right, + And your nerves be firm and true,” +</pre> +<p> + (fancy “nerves” in a ballad!)— +</p> +<pre> + “Sir knight, Sir knight, a beauty bright + In durance waits for you.” +</pre> +<p> + The ballad, written by M.G. Lewis, now describes in a painfully + commonplace manner the knight’s further adventures. He and his guide + wandered round and round and high and low in the maze of chambers within + the castle, until at last a door of brass, whose bolt was a venomous + snake, gave them entrance to a gloomy hall, draped in black, which the + “hundred lights” failed to brighten. In the hall a hundred knights of + “marble white” lay sleeping by their steeds of “marble black as the + raven’s back.” At the end of the hall, guarded by two huge skeleton + forms, the imprisoned lady was seen in tears within a crystal tomb. One + skeleton held in his bony fingers a horn, the other a “falchion bright,” + and the knight was told to choose between them, and the fate of himself + and the lady would depend upon his choice. Sir Guy, after long + hesitation, blew a shrill blast upon the horn; at the sound the hundred + steeds stamped their hoofs, the hundred knights sprang up, and the + unlucky knight fell down senseless, with his ghastly guide’s words + ringing in his ears— +</p> +<pre> + “Shame on the coward who sounded a horn + When he might have unsheathed a sword!” +</pre> +<p> + In the morning, the unfortunate Sir Guy awoke to find himself lying + amongst the ruins, and forthwith began his ceaseless and unavailing + search for the lady he had failed to rescue. +</p> +<p> + The legend similar to this in many respects is that of King Arthur and + his court at Sewingshields, to which allusion has already been made in + the chapter on the Roman Wall. I cannot do better than give this in the + words of Mr. Hodgson, who tells the story in his History of + Northumberland. “Immemorial tradition has asserted that King Arthur, + his queen Guenever, his court of lords and ladies, and his hounds were + enchanted in some cave of the crags, or in a hall below the castle of + Sewingshields, and would continue entranced there until someone should + first blow a bugle-horn that lay on a table near the entrance of the + hall, and then with the ‘sword of the stone’ (was this Excalibur?) cut a + garter, also placed there beside it. But none had ever heard where the + entrance to this enchanted hall was, till the farmer at Sewingshields, + about fifty years since, was sitting knitting on the ruins of the + castle, and his clew fell, and ran downwards through a rush of briars + and nettles, as he supposed, into a subterraneous passage. Full in the + faith that the entrance to King Arthur’s hall had now been discovered, + he cleared the briary portal of its weeds and rubbish, and entering a + vaulted passage, followed in his darkling way the thread of his clew. + The floor was infested with toads and lizards; and the dark wings of + bats, disturbed by his unhallowed intrusion, flitted fearfully around + him. At length his sinking courage was strengthened by a dim, distant + light, which as he advanced grew gradually brighter, till all at once he + entered a vast and vaulted hall, in the centre of which a fire without + fuel, from a broad crevice in the floor blazed with a high and lambent + flame, that showed all the carved walls and fretted roof, and the + monarch and his queen and court reposing around, in a theatre of thrones + and costly couches. On the floor beyond the fire lay the faithful and + deep-toned pack of thirty couple of hounds; and on a table before it the + spell-dissolving horn, sword, and garter. The shepherd reverently, but + firmly, grasped the sword, and as he drew it leisurely from its rusty + scabbard, the eyes of the monarch and his courtiers began to open, and + they rose till they sat upright. He cut the garter; and as the sword was + being slowly sheathed the spell assumed its ancient power, and they all + gradually sank to rest; but not before the monarch had lifted up his + eyes and hands, and exclaimed— +</p> +<pre> + “O woe betide that evil day + On which this witless wight was born, + Who drew the sword, the garter cut. + But never blew the bugle horn!” +</pre> +<p> + Terror brought on loss of memory, and the shepherd was unable to give + any correct account of his adventure, or to find again the entrance to + the enchanted hall. +</p> +<p> + Another legend is connected with Tynemouth. Just above the short sands + was a cave known as Jingling Geordie’s Hole; the “Geordie” is evidently + a late interpolation, for earlier mention of the cave gives it as the + Jingling Man’s Hole. No one knows how it came by its name; tradition + says that it was the entrance to a subterranean passage leading from the + Priory beneath the Tyne to Jarrow. In this cave it was said that a + treasure of a fabulous amount was concealed, and the tale of this hoard + fired a boy named Walter to seek it out, when he heard the tale from his + mother. On his attaining to knighthood, he resolved to make the finding + of the treasure his particular “quest,” and arming himself, he + adventured forth on the Eve of St. John. Making his way fearlessly down + into the cave, undaunted by spectre or dragon, as they attempted to + dispute his passage, he arrived at a gloomy gateway, where hung a bugle, + fastened by a golden cord. Boldly he placed the bugle to his lips, and + blew three loud blasts. To his amazement, at the sound the doors rolled + back, displaying a vast and brightly-lit hall, whose roof was supported + on pillars of jasper and crystal; the glow from lamps of gold shone + softly down on gold and gems, which were heaped upon the floor of this + magic chamber, and the treasure became the rich reward of the dauntless + youth. +</p> +<pre> + “Gold heaped upon gold, and emeralds green, + And diamonds and rubies, and sapphires untold, + Rewarded the courage of Walter the Bold.” +</pre> +<p> + The fortunate youth became a very great personage, indeed, as by means + of his great riches he was “lord of a hundred castles” and wide domains. +</p> +<p> + Of a very different character is the story of the Hermit of Warkworth. + It is unfortunate that this, the most tragic and moving of all + Northumbrian tales, should be most widely known by means of the prosy + imitation ballad by Dr. Percy, whose ability as a poet did by no means + equal his zeal as a collector of ballads. The hero of the sorrowful tale + is said to have been a Bertram of Bothal, who loved fair Isabel, + daughter of the lord of Widdrington. Bertram was a knight in Percy’s + train, and at a great feast made by the lord of Alnwick the fair maiden + and her father were amongst the guests. As the minstrels chanted the + praises of their lord, and sang of the valiant deeds by which his noble + house had won renown, the heart of Isabel thrilled at the thought of her + true knight rivalling those deeds of fame. Summoning one of her + attendant maidens, she sent her to Bertram, bearing a helmet of steel + with crest of gold. With the helmet the maiden gave her mistress’ + message, that she would yield to her knight’s pleadings and become his + bride, as soon as he had proved himself a valiant and worthy wearer of + the golden-crested helm. Reverently Bertram accepted the commands of + his lady, and vowed to prove his devotion wherever hard blows were to be + given and danger to be found. The lord of Alnwick straightway arranged + for an expedition on to Scottish land, in requital of old scores, and + assembled together a goodly company to ride against the Scots. Earl + Douglas and his men opposed them, and blows were dealt thick and fast on + both sides. Bertram was sorely wounded, after showing wondrous prowess + in the fight; but being rescued by Percy, was borne to the castle of + Wark upon the Tweed, to recover from his wounds in safety. Isabel’s aged + father had seen the young knight’s valour, and promised that the maiden + herself should tend his hurts and care for him until he recovered. Day + after day passed, however, and still she came not. At last the knight, + scarcely able to take the saddle, rode back to Widdrington, tended by + his gallant young brother, to satisfy himself of what had become of his + lady. They reached Widdrington tower to find it all in darkness; and + after repeated knockings the aged nurse came to the gateway and demanded + the name of those who so insistently clamoured at the door. Bertram + enquired for the lady Isabel; and then, indeed, all was dismay. The + nurse, trembling with fear, told the two youths that her mistress had + set out immediately on hearing of her lover’s plight, reproaching + herself for having led him to adventure his life so rashly, and it was + now six days since she had gone. Weary and weak, Bertram rested the + night at the castle, and then set out on his search for his lost lady. + That they might the sooner search the country round, he and his brother, + who loved him dearly, took different directions, one going eastward, and + the other north. They put on various disguises as they went, Bertram + appearing now in the guise of a holy Palmer, now as a wandering + minstrel As he was sitting, despondent and well-nigh despairing, + beneath a hawthorn tree, an aged monk came by, and on seeing the + supposed minstrel’s face of sorrow, said to him, +</p> +<pre> + “All minstrels yet that e’er I saw + Are full of game and glee, + But thou art sad and woe-begone; + I marvel whence it be.” +</pre> +<p> + Bertram replied that he served an aged lord whose only child had been + stolen away, and that he would know no happiness until he had found her. + The pilgrim comforted him and bade him hope, telling him that +</p> +<pre> + “Behind yon hills so steep and high, + Down in a lonely glen, + There stands a castle fair and strong, + Far from the abode of men.” +</pre> +<p> + Saying that he had heard a lady’s voice lamenting in this lonely tower, + he passed on, giving Bertram the hope that now at last his quest was + ended. He made his way to that strong castle, and with his music + prevailed upon the porter to let him stay near at hand in a cavern; for + the porter refused to admit him to the castle in the absence of his + lord, though at the same time giving him food and directing him to the + cave. He piped all day and watched all night, and was rewarded by + hearing his lady’s voice lamenting within the walls of her prison. On + the second night he caught a glimpse of her beauteous form, fair as the + moonbeams that shone around the tower. On the third night, worn with + watching, he slept, and only awakened as dawn drew nigh. Grasping his + weapon, he stole near to the castle walls, when to his amazement, he saw + his lady descend from her window by a ladder of rope, held for her by a + youth in Highland dress. Stunned at the sight, he could not move to + follow them, till they had left behind them the castle where the lady + had been held captive, and were about to disappear over the hill. + Silently and swiftly then he drew near, and crying furiously, “Vile + traitor! yield that lady up!” fell upon the youth who accompanied her, + who in his turn fought as furiously as he. In a few moments Bertram’s + antagonist lay stretched on the ground; and as he gave him the fatal + thrust he cried, “Die, traitor, die!” The lady recognised his voice, and + rushing forward, shrieked, “Stay! stay! it is thy brother.” But the + sword of Bertram, already descending with the force of rage and fury in + the blow, could not be stayed until too late. The fair maid’s breast was + pierced by the sword of the knight who loved her, and she sank down by + the side of the youth who had delivered her. It was indeed Bertram’s + brother, who had succeeded in his search; and the dying maiden found + time to tell of his devotion, in rescuing her from this castle of the + son of a Scottish lord who fain would have made her his bride, before + she, too, lay lifeless by the side of her brave rescuer, leaving her + lover too despairing and desolate to seek safety in flight, so that the + band of searchers from the castle, seeking their prisoner on the hills, + and dreading their lord’s wrath on his return, bore him back with them + to the dungeon. Their lord, however, had meantime been taken captive by + Percy (Hotspur), who, as soon as he heard of Bertram’s capture, quickly + exchanged the Scottish chief for his friend. Bertram’s sorrow lasted for + the rest of his days; he gave away his lands and possessions to the + poor, and retiring to a lovely spot on the banks of the Coquet, where + rocky cliffs overhung the river, he carved out in the living stone a + little cell, dormitory, and chapel, and dwelt there, passing his days in + mourning, meditation, and prayer. In the chapel, with its gracefully + arched roof, he fashioned on an altar-tomb the image of a lady, and at + her feet the figure of a hermit, in the attitude of grief, one hand + supporting his head and the other pressed against his breast, leaning + over and gazing at the lady for ever. The poignant sentence “My tears + have been my meat day and night,” is carved over the entrance to the + little chapel. Here, in this beautiful spot, almost under the shadow of + the castle walls belonging to his noble friend, the sorrowing knight, + now a holy hermit, spent the remainder of his life in the little + dwelling he had wrought in the living rock. It remains to-day more + beautiful, if possible, than ever, overhung by a canopy of waving + greenery, and draped with ferns and mosses, their graceful fronds laved + by the rippling Coquet whose gentle murmurings fill the still air with + music. +</p> +<p> + The next tale takes us to the neighbourhood of Belford, and out upon the + old post road from London to Edinburgh. In the unsettled times of James + the Second’s reign, one Sir John Cochrane of Ochiltree was condemned to + death for his part in the rising which was led by the Duke of Argyle. + Powerful friends, heavily bribed by Sir John’s father, the Earl of + Dundonald, were working in Sir John’s favour, and they had strong hopes + of obtaining a pardon. But meanwhile, Sir John lay in the Tolbooth at + Edinburgh, and the warrant for his execution was already on its way + northward, in the post-bag carried forward by horseman after horseman + throughout the length of the way. Could the arrival of the warrant only + be delayed by some means, his life might be saved. In this strait, his + daughter Grizzel, a girl of eighteen, conceived the desperate idea of + preventing the warrant’s reaching its destination. Saying nothing to + anyone of her intentions, she stole away from home, and rode swiftly to + the Border. Following the road for about four miles on the English + side, she arrived at the house of her old nurse; and here she changed + her clothes, persuading the old dame to lend her a suit belonging to her + foster-brother. Making her way southward, she went to the inn at Belford + where the riders carrying the mail usually put up for the night. Here, + the same night, came the postman, and the seeming youth watched + nervously, but determinedly, for an opportunity of finding out whether + the fateful paper was in his bag or not. No slightest chance presented + itself, however, and an attempt to obtain the mail-bag during the night + failed by reason of the fact that the man slept upon it. One thing she + did accomplish, which gave her hope that the encounter for which she was + nerving herself might end successfully for her; she managed, unseen, to + draw the charges from his pistols. Then the courageous girl rode off + through the dark night to select a favourable spot in which to await his + coming. For two or three lonely hours she waited, the thought that she + was fighting for her father’s life giving her courage. In the dim light + of the early dawn she heard the sound of his horse’s hoofs from where + she stood in the shadow of a clump of trees; and steeling herself for + the part she was to play, and in ignorance of whether he might have + found out that the charges had been withdrawn from his pistols and might + have re-loaded them, she waited until he was almost abreast of her, and + fired at his horse, bringing it down. Before he could extricate himself + she was upon him with drawn sword; but promising to spare his life if he + would let her have the mail-bag, she seized it and darted away. He + attempted to follow to recover his charge, but she reached her horse, + and rode off like the wind. When she reached a place of safety and + examined the contents of the bag, what was her joy to find that the + warrant was there. It was speedily destroyed; and during the time that + elapsed before the news of the loss could be sent to London and another + one made out, the friends of Sir John succeeded in obtaining his pardon. + “Cochrane’s bonny Grizzy” lived to a good old age; and “Grizzy’s clump” + on the north road near the little village of Buckton keeps green the + memory of her daring exploit. +</p> +<p> + “Bonny Grizzy” was a Scottish maid, though her gallant if lawless deed + was performed on Northumbrian soil; but there is one Northumbrian maiden + whose fame will live as long as the sea-waves beat on the wild + north-east coast, and as long as men’s hearts thrill to a tale of + courage and high resolve. Grace Darling’s name still awakens in every + bosom a response to all that is compassionate, courageous, and + unselfish; and the thoughts of all north-country folk bold that + admiration for the gentle girl which has been voiced as no other could + voice it, in the magical words of Swinburne— +</p> +<pre> + “Take, O star of all our seas, from not an alien hand, + Homage paid of song bowed down before thy glory’s face, + Thou the living light of all our lovely stormy strand, + Thou the brave north-country’s very glory of glories, Grace.” +</pre> +<p> + The story of her gallantry has been many times re-told, but never grows + wearisome. The memory of that stormy voyage of the <i>Forfarshire</i>, which + ended in disaster on the Harcar rocks in the Farne group, remains in + men’s minds as the dark and tragic setting which throws into bright + relief the gallant action of the father and daughter who dared almost + certain death to rescue their fellow-creatures in peril. It was in + September, 1838, that the ill-fated vessel left Hull for Dundee; but a + leak in the boilers caused the fires to be nearly extinguished in the + storm the vessel encountered. It reached St. Abb’s Head by the aid of + the sails, but then drifted southward, driven by the storm, and struck + in the early morning, in a dense fog, on the Harcar rocks. Nine of the + people on board managed to escape in a small boat, which was driven in a + miraculous manner through the only safe outlet between the rocks. They + were picked up by a passing boat and taken to Shields. Meanwhile a heavy + sea had crashed down upon the <i>Forfarshire</i>, and broken it in half, one + portion, with the greater number of crew and passengers, being swept + away immediately. The remaining portion, the fore part of the vessel, + was firmly fixed upon the rock. Here the shivering survivors clung all + that stormy day, the waves dashing over them continually. The captain + and his wife were washed overboard, clasped in each others’ arms; and + two little children, a boy of eight and a girl of eleven years of age, + died from exposure and the relentless buffeting of the waves, their + distracted mother clasping them by the hand long after life was extinct. + To a terrible day succeeded a yet more terrible night. +</p> +<pre> + “Scarce the cliffs of the islets, scarce the walls of Joyous Gard + Flash to sight between the deadlier lightnings of the sea; + Storm is lord and master of a midnight evil-starred, + Nor may sight nor fear discern what evil stars may be.” +</pre> +<p> + Until the morning they endured; and in the stormy dawn the keeper of the + Longstone lighthouse, William Darling, and his daughter Grace saw them + huddled in a shivering heap upon the wave-swept fragments of the wreck. + The girl begged her father to try to save them, and to allow her to help + in the task, and after some natural hesitation he consented. The + brave-hearted mother helped them to launch the boat, and they set forth. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus12"></a> +<a href="images/228.jpg"> +<img src="images/228.jpg" width="600" height="393" alt="Illustration: +The Wreck of the “Forfarshire”" /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>The Wreck of the “Forfarshire”</b></p> +</div> + +<pre> + “Sire and daughter, hand on oar and face against the night. + Maid and man whose names are beacons ever to the north. + ...... all the madness of the stormy surf + Hounds and roars them back, but roars and hounds them back in vain. + + Not our mother, not Northumberland, brought ever forth. + Though no southern shore may match the sons that kiss her mouth, + Children worthier all the birthright given of the ardent north, + Where the fire of hearts outburns the suns that fire the south.” + + They reached the rock, where nine persons were still + clinging to the wreck, and + + “Life by life the man redeems them, head by storm-worn head, + While the girl’s hand stays the boat whereof the waves are fain.” +</pre> +<p> + With five of the exhausted survivors the boat returned to the Longstone; + and two of the men went back with William Darling for the other four. + All were safely housed in the lighthouse and tended by the noble family + of the Darlings; but the storm raged for several days longer, and made + it impossible for them to be put ashore. When at length they returned to + their homes, and the story of the rescue was made known, the whole + country was moved by it; and presents of all kinds, money, and offers of + marriage poured in upon Grace, who remained quite unmoved by it all, and + was still the gentle unassuming girl that she had always been. She + refused to leave her home, though she was offered twenty pounds a night + at the Adelphi if she would consent merely to sit in a boat for London + audiences to gaze upon her. Sad to say, she died of consumption about + two years afterwards, after having tried in vain to arrest the course of + her sickness by change of air at Wooler and Alnwick; and she sleeps in + Bamburgh churchyard, within sound of the sea by which she had spent her + short life. +</p> +<pre> + “East and west and south acclaim her queen of England’s maids. + Star more sweet than all their stars, and flower than all their flowers.” +</pre> +<p> + The actual boat in which the gallant deed was performed was long + preserved at Newton Hall, Stocksfield; but the owners have lately + presented it to the Marine Laboratory at Cullercoats. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus13"></a> +<img src="images/231.jpg" width="300" height="181" alt="[Illustration: +Drawing of boat]" /> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap11"></a>CHAPTER XI.<br/>BALLADS AND POEMS.</h2> + +<p> + The ballads of Northumberland, as all true ballads should do, partake of + the characteristics of the district which is their home. As we should + expect, they treat chiefly of warlike themes, of the chieftain’s doughty + deeds, the moss-trooper’s daring and skill, of the knight’s courtesies + and gallant feats of arms, and the feuds of rival clans; in fact, they + portray for us vividly the time of which they treat, and in a few + graphic touches bring before us the very spirit of the period. In direct + and simple phrases the narrative proceeds, giving with rare power just + the necessary expression to the tale. +</p> +<p> + These ballads fall naturally into three main divisions. The historical + ballad is at its best in the famous “Chevy-Chase,” which has been the + delight of gentle and simple for centuries; and the oft-quoted + declaration of Sir Philip Sidney concerning it still finds an echo in + our own day. +</p> +<p> + Of the two best known versions of the ballad, the one here given is the + more poetical by far; the other, however, contains the account of the + courage of Hugh Widdrington which has made the gallant squire immortal. +</p> +<p> + The latter version is as evidently English as the former is Scottish; or + rather, each has grown to its present form as the reciters exercised + their art to please an English or a Scottish audience. In the one + version it is Douglas who takes the offensive, and challenges Percy, + waiting for him at Otterbourne; in the other we are told that +</p> +<pre> + “The stout Erle of Northumberland + A vow to God did make, + His pleasure in the Scottish woods + Three summer days to take.” +</pre> +<p> + On the death of Douglas— +</p> +<pre> + “Erle Percy took + The dead man by the hand, + And said, ‘Erle Douglas, for thy life + Would I had lost my land!’” +</pre> +<p> + When the battle is over, +</p> +<pre> + “Next day did many widdowes come + Their husbands to bewayle; + Their bodyes bathed in purple blood + They bore with them away; + They kist them dead a thousand times + Ere they were cladd in clay.” +</pre> +<p> + It was neither of these versions, however, that so moved the heart of + gallant Sidney, but a much older one, beginning +</p> +<pre> + “The Perse owt off Northomberlande + And a vow to God made he, + That he wold hunt in the mountayns + Off Chyviat within days iii.” +</pre> +<p> + Other historical ballads are “The Rising of the North,” “The Raid of the + Reidswire,” “Flodden Field,” “Homildon Hils” and “Hedgeley Moor.” +</p> +<p> + The next division may be termed semi-historical; that is, they treat of + events which actually happened, but which have chiefly a local interest; + and these may therefore be said to be more truly Northumbrian than any + others. Such are “Jock o’ the Side,” “Johnnie Armstrong,” “Hobbie Noble” + and “The Death of Parcy Reed.” +</p> +<p> + Of the third class, the romantic ballads, we have not so rich a store; + yet “The Gay Goss-hawk,” the “Nut-browne Mayde” and the touchingly + beautiful “Barthram’s Dirge” may stand amongst the best of their kind. +</p> +<p> + “The Gay Gross-hawk” is one of those delightful and imaginative + productions of which there are so many examples, in which birds and + hounds share their lords’ and ladies’ secrets, and serve them staunchly + in hours of peril; they belong to the times when fairies were still seen + holding their moonlight revels, when witches exercised their baleful + arts, and fearsome dragons wore still to be met and conquered—“and if + you do not believe it,” said Dr. Spence Watson, “I am sorry for you!” +</p> +<p> + The “Nut-browne Mayde” is supposed to have been a Lady Margaret Percy, + who lived in the reign of Henry VIII.; and the lover to whom she was so + faithful, notwithstanding his trial of her love by declaring that he was + an outlaw, and “must to the greenwood go, alone, a banished man,” was + Henry Clifford, son of the Earl of Westmoreland. The inordinate length + of this ballad forbade its inclusion in the present selection; I am + sensible that that selection may appear somewhat meagre, but only want + of space has prevented the inclusion of others that many of my readers + would doubtless have been glad to see. +</p> +<p> + Of songs in dialect, Joe Wilson’s “Aw wish yor Muthor wad cum!” stands + easily first; and the other, “Sair feyl’d, hinny!” is given as an + example of the Northumbrian muse in another mood. +</p> +<p> + In conclusion, let me say that of the modern verse every example is from + the pen of a Northumbrian. +</p> +<pre> + CHEVY CHASE I. +</pre> +<pre> + It fell about the Lammas tide, + When muir-men win their hay, + The doughty Douglas bound him to ride + Into England to drive a prey. + + He chose the Gordons and the Graemes, + With them the Lindsays, light and gay; + But the Jardines would not with them ride, + And they rue it to this day. + + And he has burned the dales o’ Tyne, + And part o’ Bamburghshire; + And three good towers on Reidswire fells + He left them all on fire. + + And he marched up to New Castel, + And rode it round about; + “O wha’s the lord of this castel? + Or wha’s the lady o’t?” + + And up spake proud Lord Percy then, + And O! but he spake hie! + “O I’m the lord of this castel, + My wife’s the lady gay.” + + “If thou art the lord of this castel, + Sae weel it pleases me! + For ere I cross the Border fells, + The tane of us sall die.” + + He took a lang spere in his hand + Shod wi’ the metal free, + And for to meet the Douglas there + He rode right furiouslie! + + But oh! how pale his lady looked + Frae off the castle wa’, + When down before the Scottish speare + She saw proud Percy fa’! + + “Had we twa been upon the green, + And never an eye to see, + I wad hae had you, flesh and fell, + But your sword shall gae wi’ me.” + + “But gae ye up to Otterbourne + And wait there dayis three, + And if I come not ere three dayis end, + A fause knight ca’ ye me.” + + “The Otterbourne’s a bonnie burn, + ’Tis pleasant there to be; + But there is naught at Otterbourne + To feed my men and me. + + “The deer rins wild on hill and dale, + The birds fly wild frae tree to tree, + But there is neither bread nor kale + To feed my men and me. + + “Yet I will stay at Otterbourne + Where you sall welcome be; + And if ye come not at three dayis end + A fause lord I’ll call thee.” + + “Thither will I come,” proud Percy said, + “By the might of Our Ladye!” + “Thither will I bide thee,” said the Douglas, + “My troth I plight to thee.” + + They lighted high on Otterbourne, + Upon the bent sae brown; + They lighted high on Otterbourne + And threw their pallions down. + + And he that had a bonnie boy, + Sent out his horse to grass; + And he that had not a bonnie boy, + His ain servant he was. + + And up then spake a little foot-page, + Before the peep o’ dawn— + “O waken, waken ye, my good lord, + The Percy is hard at hand!” + + “Ye lee, ye lee, ye leear loud! + Sae loud I hear ye lee! + For Percy had not men yestreen + To dight my men and me!” + + “But I hae dreamed a dreary dream, + Beyond the Isle of Skye; + I saw a dead man win a fight, + An’ I think that man was I.” + + He belted on his gude braid-sword, + And to the field he ran; + But he forgot his helmet good, + That should have kept his brain. + + When Percy wi’ the Douglas met + I wat he was fu’ fain! + They swakked their swords till sair they swat, + The blude ran down like rain. + + But Percy, with his gude braid-sword, + That could sae sharply wound, + Has stricken Douglas on the brow, + Till he fell to the ground. + + Then he called on his little foot-page + And said, “Run speedilie, + And fetch my ain dear sister’s son, + Sir Hugh Montgomerie.” + + “My nephew good,” the Douglas said, + “What recks the death of ane? + Last night I dreamed a dreary dream, + And I ken the day’s thy ain. + + “My wound is deep, I fain wad sleep; + Take thou the vanguard of the three, + And hide me by the bracken bush + That grows on yonder lilye lea. + + “O bury me by the bracken bush, + Beneath the bloomin’ brier; + Let never a living mortal ken + That ever a kindly Scot lies here.” + + He lifted up that noble lord, + Wi’ the saut tear in his e’e; + He hid him in the bracken bush + That his merrie men might not see. + + The moon was clear, the day drew near, + The speres in flinders flew, + And mony a gallant Englishman + Ere day the Scotsmen slew. + + The Gordons gude, in English blude + They steeped their hose and shoon; + The Lindsays flew like fire about + Till a’ the fray was dune. + + The Percy and Montgomerie met, + And either of other was fain; + They swakkèd swords, and sair they swat, + And the blude ran doun like rain. + + “Now yield thee, yield thee, Percy!” he cried; + “Or else will I lay thee low.” + “To whom sall I yield?” quoth Erle Percy, + “Sin I see it maun be so.” + + “Thou shalt not yield to lord or loon, + Nor yet shalt thou yield to me, + But thou shalt yield to the bracken bush + That grows on yon lilye lea.” + + “I will not yield to a bracken bush; + Nor yet will I yield to a brier; + But I would yield to Erle Douglas, + Or Hugh Montgomerie if he were here.” + + As soon as he knew it was Montgomerie + He stuck his sword’s-point in the gronde; + The Montgomerie was a courteous knight, + And quickly took him by the honde. + + This deed was done at the Otterbourne, + About the breaking of the day; + Erle Douglas was buried at the bracken bush. + And the Percy led captive away. +</pre> +<pre> + JOCK O’ THE SIDE. + + Now Liddesdale has ridden a raid, + But I wat they had better hae staid at hame; + For Michael o’ Winfield he is dead, + And Jock o’ the Side is prisoner ta’en. + + For Mangerton house Lady Downie has gane, + Her coats she has kilted up to her knee; + And down the water wi’ speed she rins, + While tears in spates fa’ fast frae her e’e. + + Then up and spoke our guid auld laird— + “What news, what news, sister Downie, to me?” + “Bad news, bad news, for Michael is killed, + And they hae taken my son Johnnie.” + + “Ne’er fear, sister Downie,” quo’ Mangerton, + “I have yokes of owsen, twenty and three, + My barns, my byres, and my faulds a’ weel filled, + I’ll part wi’ them a’ ere Johnnie shall dee. + + “Three men I’ll send to set him free, + A’ harnessed wi’ the best o’ steel; + The English loons may hear, and drie + The weight o’ their braid-swords to feel. + + “The Laird’s Jock ane, the Laird’s Wat twa, + O Hobbie Noble, thou ane maun be! + Thy coat is blue, thou has been true + Since England banished thee to me.” + + Now Hobbie was an English man, + In Bewcastle dale was bred and born; + But his misdeeds they were so great, + They banished him ne’er to return. + + Laird Mangerton them orders gave, + “Your horses the wrang way maun be shod; + Like gentlemen ye maunna seem, + But look like corn-cadgers ga’en the road. + + “Your armour gude ye maunna show, + Nor yet appear like men of weir; + As country lads be a’ array’d, + Wi’ branks and brecham on each mare.” + + Sae their horses are the wrang way shod, + And Hobbie has mounted his gray sae fine; + Jock his lively bay, Wat’s on his white horse behind. + And on they rode for the water of Tyne. + + At the Cholerford they a’ light doun, + And there wi’ the help o’ the light o’ the moon, + A tree they cut, wi’ fifteen nogs on each side, + To climb up the wa’ of Newcastle toun, +</pre> +<pre> + But when they cam’ to Newcastle toun, + And were alighted at the wa’ + They fand their tree three ells ower laigh, + They fand their stick baith short and sma’. + + Then up and spak the Laird’s ain Jock, + “There’s naething for’t; the gates we maun force.” + But when they cam’ the gate untill, + A proud porter withstood baith men and horse. + + His neck in twa the Armstrangs wrung; + With fute or hand he ne’er played pa! + His life and his keys at once they hae ta’en, + And cast the body ahint the wa’. + + Now sune they reach Newcastle jail, + And to the prisoner thus they call: + “Sleeps thou, or wakes thou, Jock o’ the Side, + Or art thou weary of thy thrall?” + + Jock answered thus, wi’ doleful tone, + “Aft, aft I wake—I seldom sleep; + But wha’s this kens my name sae weel, + And thus to ease my wae does seek.” + + Then out and spake the gude Laird’s Jock, + “Now fear ye na’, my billie,” quo’ he; + “For here are the Laird’s Jock, the Laird’s Wat, + And Hobbie Noble, come to set thee free.” + + “Now haud thy tongue, my gude Laird’s Jock, + For ever, alas! this canna be; + For if a’ Liddesdale were here the night, + The morn’s the day that I maun dee.” + + “Full fifteen stane o’ Spanish iron + They hae laid a’ right sair or me; + Wi’ locks and keys I am fast bound + Into this dungeon dark and dreirie!” + + “Fear ye nae that,” quo’ the Laird’s Jock; + “A faint heart ne’er won a fair ladie; + Work thou within, we’ll work without, + And I’ll be sworn we’ll set thee free.” + + The first strong door that they cam’ at, + They loosed it without a key; + The next chain’d door that they cam’ at + They gar’d it a’ to flinders flee. + + The prisoner now upon his back + The Laird’s Jock has gotten up fu’ hie; + And down the stair, him, irons and a’, + Wi’ nae sma’ speid and joy brings he. + + “Now Jock, my man,” quo Hobbie Noble, + “Some o’ his weight ye may lay on me.” + “I wat weel no,” quo’ the Laird’s ain Jock; + “I count him lighter than a flee.” + + Sae out at the gates they a’ are gane, + The prisoner’s set on horseback hie; + And now wi’ speed they’re ta’en the gate, + While ilk ane jokes fu’ wantonlie. + + “O Jock! sae winsomely ’s ye ride, + Wi’ baith your feet upon ae side; + Sae weel ye’re harnessed, and sae trig, + In troth ye sit like ony bride!” + + The night, tho’ wat, they didna mind, + But hied them on fu’ merrilie + Until they cam’ to Cholerford brae, + Where the water ran baith deep and hie. + + But when they came to Cholerford, + There they met with an auld man, + Says, “Honest man, will the water ride? + Tell us in haste, if that ye can.” + + “I wat weel no,” quo’ the gude auld man; + “I hae lived here thirty years and three, + And I ne’er yet saw the Tyne sae big, + Nor running anes sae like a sea.” + + Then out and spake the Laird’s Saft Wat, + The greatest coward in the companie; + “Now halt, now halt, we needna try’t, + The day is come we a’ maun dee.” + + “Puir faint-hearted thief!” cried the Laird’s ain Jock, + “There’ll nae man die but him that’s fey; + I’ll guide ye a’ right safely thro’, + Lift ye the prisoner on ahint me.” + + Wi’ that the water they hae ta’en; + By anes and twas they a’ swam thro’; + “Here we are a’ safe,” quo’ the Laird’s Jock, + “And puir faint Wat, what think ye now?” + + They scarce the other brae had won + When twenty men they saw pursue; + Frae Newcastle toun they had been sent, + A’ English lads baith stout and true. + + But when the land-serjeant the water saw, + “It winna ride, my lads,” says he; + Then cried aloud—“The prisoner take, + But leave the fetters, I pray, to me.” + + “I wat weel no,” quo’ the Laird’s Jock; + “I’ll keep them a’; shoon to my mare they’ll be. + My gude bay mare—for I am sure + She has bought them a’ right dear frae thee.” + + Sae now they are on to Liddesdale, + E’en as fast as they could them hie; + The prisoner is brought to his ain fireside, + And there o’ his airns they mak’ him free. + + “Now, Jock, ma billie,” quo’ a’ the three, + “The day is com’d thou was to dee. + But thou’s as weel at thy ain ingle-side, + Now sitting, I think ’twixt thou and me.” +</pre> +<pre> + BARTHRAM’S DIRGE. + + They shot him dead at the Nine-stane Rig, + Beside the Headless Cross, + And they left him lying in his blood, + Upon the moor and moss. + + They made a bier of the broken bough + The sauch and the aspin grey, + And they bore him to the Lady Chapel, + And waked him there all day. + + A lady came to that lonely bower, + And threw her robes aside; + She tore her ling lang yellow hair, + And knelt at Barthram’s side. + + She bathed him in the Lady-Well, + His wounds sae deep and sair; + And she plaited a garland for his breast, + And a garland for his hair. + + They rowed him in a lily sheet + And bare him to his earth; + And the Grey Friars sung the dead man’s mass + As they passed the Chapel garth. + + They buried him at the mirk midnight, + When the dew fell cold and still, + When the aspin grey forgot to play, + And the mist clung to the hill. + + They dug his grave but a bare foot deep, + By the edge of the Nine-stane Burn, + And they covered him o’er with the heather-flower, + The moss and the lady-fern. + + A Grey Friar staid upon the grave, + And sang till the morning tide; + And a friar shall sing for Barthram’s soul + While the Headless Cross shall bide. +</pre> +<pre> + THE FAIR FLOWER OF NORTHUMBERLAND + + It was a knight in Scotland born, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Was taken pris’ner and left forlorn, + Even by the good Earl of Northumberland. + + Then was he cast in prison strong, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Where he could not walk nor lie along, + Even by the good Earl of Northumberland. + + And as in sorrow thus he lay, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + The Earl’s sweet daughter passed that way, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + And passing by, like an angel bright, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + The prisoner had of her a sight, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + And aloud to her this knight did cry, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + The salt tears standing in her eye, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + “Fair lady,” he said, “take pity on me, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And let me not in prison dee, + And you the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + “Fair sir, how should I take pity on thee, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Thou being a foe to our countrie, + And I the fair flower of Northumberland?” + + “Fair lady, I am no foe,” he said, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + “Through thy sweet love here was I stayed, + And thou the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + “Why shouldst thou come here for love of me, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Having wife and bairns in thy own countrie, + And I the fair flower of Northumberland?” + + “I swear by the Blessed Trinity, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + That neither wife nor bairns have I, + And thou the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + “If courteously thou wilt set me free, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + I vow that I will marry thee, + And thou the fair flower of Northumberland. + + “Thou shalt be lady of castles and towers, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And sit like a queen in princely bowers, + Even thou the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + Then parted hence this lady gay, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And got her father’s ring away, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + Likewise much gold got she by sleight, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And all to help this forlorn knight, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + Two gallant steeds both good and able, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand), + She likewise took out of the stable, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + And to the goaler she sent the ring, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Who the knight from prison forth did bring, + To meet the fair flower of Northumberland. + + This token set the prisoner free, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Who straight went to this fair ladye, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + A gallant steed he did bestride, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And with the lady away did ride, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + They rode till they came to a water clear, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + “Good sir, how shall I follow you here, + And I the fair flower of Northumberland? + + “The water is rough and wonderful deep, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And on my saddle I shall not keep, + And I the fair flower of Northumberland? + + “Fear not the ford, fair lady,” quoth he, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + “For long I cannot stay for thee, + Even thou the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + The lady prickt her gallant steed, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And over the water swam with speed, + Even she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + From top to toe all wet was she, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + “This have I done for love of thee, + Even I the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + Thus rode she all one winter’s night. + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Till Edenborough they saw in sight, + The fairest town in all Scotland. + + “Now I have a wife and children five, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + In Edenborough they be alive, + And thou the fair flower of Northumberland. + + “And if thou wilt not give thy hand, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Then get thee home to fair England, + And thou the fair flower of Northumberland + + “This favour thou shalt have, to boot, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + I’ll have thy horse; go thou on foot, + Even thou the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + “O false and faithless knight,” quoth she; + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + “And canst thou deal so bad with me, + Even I the fair flower of Northumberland?” + + He took her from her stately steed, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And left her there in extreme need, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + Then she sat down full heavily, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + At length two knights came riding by, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + Two gallant knights of fair England, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And there they found her on the strand, + Even she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + She fell down humbly on her knee, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Crying, “Courteous knights, take pity on me, + Even I the fair flower of Northumberland. + + “I have offended my father dear, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + For a false knight that brought me here, + Even I the fair flower of Northumberland.” + + They took her up beside them then, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + And brought her to her father again, + And she the fair flower of Northumberland. + + Now all you fair maids, be warned by me, + (Follow, my love, come over the strand) + Scots never were true, nor ever will be, + To lord, nor lady, nor fair England. +</pre> +<pre> + WHITTINGHAM FAIR. + + Are you going to Whittingham Fair + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + Remember me to one that lives there, + For once she was a true lover of mine. + + Tell her to make me a cambric shirt, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + Without any seam or needlework, + Then she shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell her to wash it in yonder well, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + Where never spring water or rain ever fell, + And she shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell her to dry it on yonder thorn, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + Which never bore blossom since Adam was born. + Then she shall be a true lover of mine. + + Now he has asked me questions three, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + I hope he’ll answer as many for me, + Before he shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell him to buy me an acre of land, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + Betwixt the salt water and the sea sand, + Then he shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell him to plough it with a ram’s horn. + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + And sow it all over with one pepper corn. + And he shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell him to shear’t with a sickle of leather, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + And bind it up with a peacock feather, + And he shall be a true lover of mine. + + Tell him to thrash it on yonder wall, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + And never let one corn of it fall, + Then he shall be a true lover of mine. + + When he has done and finished his work, + (Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme), + O tell him to come and he’ll have his shirt, + And he shall be a true lover of mine. +</pre> +<pre> + O THE OAK AND THE ASH. +</pre> +<pre> + A North country mayde up to London had strayed, + Although with her nature it did not agree. + Which made her repent, and often lament, + Still wishing again in the North for to be. + “O the Oak and the Ash and the bonny Ivy tree, + They are all growing green in my North Countrie!” + + “O fain wad I be in the North Countrie + Where the lads and the lasses are all making hay; + O there wad I see what is pleasant to me,— + A mischief ’light on them enticed me away! + O the Oak and the Ash and the bonny Ivy tree, + They are all growing green in my North Countrie!” + + “Then farewell my father, and farewell my mother, + Until I do see you I nothing but mourn; + Remembering my brothers, my sisters, and others— + In less than a year I hope to return. + O the Oak and the Ash and the bonny Ivy tree. + They are all growing green in my North Countrie!” +</pre> +<pre> + SAIR FEYL’D, HINNY! +</pre> +<pre> + “Sair feyl’d, hinny! + Sair feyl’d now, + Sair feyl’d, hinny, + Sin’ aw ken’d thou. + Aw was young and lusty, + Aw was fair and clear; + Aw was young and lusty + Mony a lang year. + Sair feyl’d, hinny! + Sair feyl’d now; + Sair feyl’d, hinny, + Sin’ aw ken’d thou. + + “When aw was young and lusty + Aw cud lowp u dyke; + But now aw’m aud and still. + Aw can hardly stop a syke. + Sair feyl’d, hinny! + Sair feyl’d now, + Sair feyl’d hinny, + Sin’ aw ken’d thou. + + “When aw was five and twenty + Aw was brave an bauld. + Now at five an’ sixty + Aw’m byeth stiff an’ cauld. + Sair feyl’d, hinny! + Sair feyl’d now. + Sair feyl’d, hinny, + Sin’ aw ken’d thou” + + Thus said the aud man + To the oak tree; + “Sair feyl’d is aw + Sin’ aw kenn’d thee! + Sair feyl’d, hinny! + Sair feyl’d now; + Sair feyl’d, hinny, + Sin’ aw ken’d thou.” +</pre> +<pre> + AW WISH YOE MUTHER WAD CUM! +</pre> +<pre> + “Cum, Geordy, haud the bairn, + Aw’s sure aw’ll not stop lang, + Aw’d tyek the jewl me-sel, + But really aw’s not strang. + Thor’s flooer and coals te get, + The hoose-torns thor not deun, + So haud the bairn for fairs, + Ye’re often deun’d for fun!” + + Then Geordy held the bairn, + But sair agyen his will, + The poor bit thing wes gud, + But Geordy had ne skill, + He haddint its muther’s ways, + He sat both stiff an’ num,— + Before five minutes wes past + He wished its muther wad cum! + + His wife had scarcely gyen, + The bairn begun te squall, + Wi’ hikin’t up an’ doon + He’d let the poor thing fall, + It waddent haud its tung, + Tho’ sum aud teun he’d hum,— + ‘Jack an’ Gill went up a hill’— + “Aw wish yor muther wad cum!” + + “What weary toil,” says he, + “This nursin bairns mun be, + A bit on’t’s weel eneuf, + Ay, quite eneuf for me; + Te keep a crying bairn, + It may be grand te sum, + A day’s wark’s not as bad— + Aw wish yor muther wad cum. + + “Men seldom give a thowt + Te what thor wives indure, + Aw thowt she’d nowt te de + But clean the hoose, aw’s sure. + Or myek me dinner an’ tea— + It’s startin’ te chow its thumb, + The poor thing wants its tit, + Aw wish yor muther wad cum.” + + What a selfish world this is, + Thor’s nowt mair se than man; + He laffs at wummin’s toil, + And winnet nurse his awn;— + It’s startin’ te cry agyen, + Aw see tuts throo its gum, + Maw little bit pet, dinnet fret,— + Aw wish yor muther wad cum. + + “But kindness dis a vast. + It’s ne use gettin’ vext. + It winnet please the bairn, + Or ease a mind perplext. + At last—its gyen te sleep, + Me wife’ll not say aw’s num, + She’ll think aw’s a real gud norse, + Aw wish yor muther wud cum!” + + <i>Joe Wilson</i> +</pre> +<pre> + THE AULD FISHER’S LAST WISH +</pre> +<pre> + The morn is grey, and green the brae, the wind is frae the wast + Before the gale the snaw-white clouds are drivin’ light and fast; + The airly sun is glintin’ forth, owre hill, and dell, and plain, + And Coquet’s streams are glitterin’, as they run frae muir to main. + + At Dewshill wood the mavis sings beside her birken nest, + At Halystane the laverock springs upon his breezy quest; + Wi’ eydent e’e, aboon the craigs, the gled is high in air, + Beneath brent Brinkburn’s shadowed cliff the fox lies in his lair. + + There’s joy at merry Thristlehaugh tie new-mown hay to win; + The busy bees at Todstead-shaw are bringing honey in; + The trouts they loup in ilka stream, the birds on ilka tree; + Auld Coquet-side is Coquet still—but there’s nae place for me! + + My sun is set, my eyne are wet, cauld poortith now is mine; + Nae mair I’ll range by Coquet-side and thraw the gleesome line; + Nae mair I’ll see her bonnie stream in spring-bright raiment drest, + Save in the dream that stirs the heart when the weary e’e’s at rest. + + Oh! were my limbs as ance they were, to jink across the green. + And were my heart as light again as sometime it has been, + And could my fortunes blink again as erst when youth was sweet, + Then Coquet—hap what might beside—we’d no be lang to meet’ + + Or had I but the cushat’s wing, where’er I list to flee, + And wi’ a wish, might wend my way owre hill, and dale, and lea. + ’Tis there I’d fauld that weary wing, there gaze my latest gaze. + Content to see thee ance again—then sleep beside thy braes! + + —<i>Thomas Doublerday</i>. +</pre> +<pre> + A SONNET. +</pre> +<pre> + Go, take thine angle, and with practised line. + Light as the gossamer, the current sweep; + And if thou failest in the calm, still deep, + In the rough eddy may a prize be thine. + Say thou’rt unlucky where the sunbeams shine; + Beneath the shadow, where the waters creep + Perchance the monarch of the brook shall leap— + For fate is ever better than design. + + Still persevere; the giddiest breeze that blows, + For thee may blow with fame and fortune rife. + Be prosperous; and what reck if it arose + Out of some pebble with the stream at strife, + Or that the light wind dallied with the boughs? + Thou art successful.—Such is human life! + + —<i>Thomas Doubleday</i>. +</pre> +<pre> + A VISION OF JOYOUS-GARDE. +</pre> +<pre> + “And so sir Launcelot brought sir Tristan and La Beate Isoud unto + Joyous-gard, the which was his owne castle that hee had wonne with his + owne hands.”—<i>Malory</i>. + + “Bamburgh ... the great rock-fortress that was known to the Celts as + Dinguardi, and was to figure in Arthurian romance as Joyous Garde ... + “—<i>C.J. Bates</i> (History of Northumberland). + + I wandered under winter stars + The lone Northumbrian shore; + And night lay deep in silence on the sea. + Save where, unceasingly, + Among the pillared scaurs + Of perilous Farnes, wild waves for ever more + Breaking in foam, + Sounded as some far strife through the star-haunted gloam. + + Before me, looming through the night, + Darker than night’s sad heart, + King Ida’s castle on the sheer crag set + Waked darker sorrow yet + Within me for the light, + Beauty, and might of old loves rent apart, + Time-broken, spent, + And strewn as old dead winds among the salt-sea bent. + + Till, dreaming of the glittering days, + And eves with beauty starred, + Time fell from me as some night-cloud withdrawn, + And in enchanted dawn, + All in a golden haze, + I saw the gleaming towers of Joyous Garde + In splendour rise, + Tall, pinnacled, and white to my dream-laden eyes. + + While thither, as in days of old, + Launcelot homeward came, + War-wearied, and yet wearier of the strife + Of love that tore his life; + + Burning, beneath the cold + Armour of steel, a never-dying flame: + The fierce desire + Consuming honour’s gold on the heart’s altar fire! + + And thither in great love he brought + The fugitives of love, + Isoud and Tristram fleeing from King Mark. + One day ’twixt dark and dark + These lovers, by fate caught + In love’s bright web, dreamed with blue skies above + Of love no tide + Of wavering life may part, or death’s swift sea divide. + + But Launcelot, in their bliss forlorn, + Fled from the laughter clear + Of happy lovers, and love’s silent noon; + All night beneath the moon + He strode, his spirit torn + For Guenevere! All night on Guenevere + He cried aloud + Unto the moonlit foam and every windy cloud. +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<pre> + Then faded, quivering, from my sight + The memory-woven dream. + The towers of Joyous Garde shall never more + Lighten that desolate shore; + No longe’r through the night + Wrestling with love, beneath the pale moon gleam + That anguished form!— + But keen with snow and wind, and loud with gathering storm. + + <i>—Wilfrid W. Gibson</i>. + + (In “The Northern Counties Magazine,” March, 1901). +</pre> +<pre> + MY NORTH COUNTRIE. +</pre> +<pre> + O though here fair blows the rose, and the woodbine waves on high, + And oak, and elm, and bracken fronds enrich the rolling lea, + And winds, as if in Arcady, breathe joy as they go by, + Yet I yearn and I pine for my North Countrie! + + I leave the drowsing South, and in thought I northward fly, + And walk the stretching moors that fringe the ever-calling sea, + And am gladdened as the gales that are so bitter-sweet rush by. + While grey clouds sweetly darken o’er my North Countrie. + + For there’s music in the storms, and there’s colour in the shades, + And joy e’en in the grief so widely brooding o’er the sea; + And larger thoughts have birth amid the moors and lonely glades + And reedy mounds and sands of my North Countrie! + + —<i>Thomas Runciman</i>. +</pre> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<img src="images/257.jpg" width="170" height="298" alt="Illustration: +Drawing" /> +</div> + +<p class="center"> +ANDREW REID & COMPANY. LIMITED, PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS, +NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE. +</p> + +<div class="fig" style="width:100%;"> +<a name="illus14"></a> +<a href="images/map.jpg"> +<img src="images/map.jpg" width="432" height="600" alt="Illustration: +SKETCH MAP OF NORTHUMBERLAND" /></a> +<p class="caption"><b>SKETCH MAP OF NORTHUMBERLAND</b></p> +</div> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11124 ***</div> +</body> + +</html> + + diff --git a/11124-h/images/001.jpg b/11124-h/images/001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..278e9d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/001.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/010.jpg b/11124-h/images/010.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..32a6d24 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/010.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/043.jpg b/11124-h/images/043.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..25e75f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/043.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/043.png b/11124-h/images/043.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..674d86a --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/043.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/066.jpg b/11124-h/images/066.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..26f59cf --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/066.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/092.jpg b/11124-h/images/092.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..851106c --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/092.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/092.png b/11124-h/images/092.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1162ec7 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/092.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/098.jpg b/11124-h/images/098.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44d4549 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/098.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/098.png b/11124-h/images/098.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e7928e --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/098.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/110.jpg b/11124-h/images/110.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d98e142 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/110.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/120.jpg b/11124-h/images/120.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfd373c --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/120.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/120.png b/11124-h/images/120.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f43713f --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/120.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/144.jpg b/11124-h/images/144.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..81436ae --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/144.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/166.jpg b/11124-h/images/166.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e9a214 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/166.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/166.png b/11124-h/images/166.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36b460d --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/166.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/178.jpg b/11124-h/images/178.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2cc3c94 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/178.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/228.jpg b/11124-h/images/228.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c69ec81 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/228.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/231.jpg b/11124-h/images/231.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc8f58a --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/231.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/231.png b/11124-h/images/231.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e3ace9 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/231.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/257.jpg b/11124-h/images/257.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a1168d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/257.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/257.png b/11124-h/images/257.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf39552 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/257.png diff --git a/11124-h/images/cover.jpg b/11124-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..345d16d --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/11124-h/images/map.jpg b/11124-h/images/map.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2a03b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/11124-h/images/map.jpg |
