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diff --git a/11039.txt b/11039.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..82bcf6b --- /dev/null +++ b/11039.txt @@ -0,0 +1,19780 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Woman's Journey Round the World, by Ida +Pfeiffer + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Woman's Journey Round the World + +Author: Ida Pfeiffer + +Release Date: February 11, 2004 [eBook #11039] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE +WORLD*** + + + + +This Ebook was produced by Les Bowler, St. Ives, Dorset. + + + + +A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD, from Vienna to Brazil, Chili, +Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, and Asia Minor. + + + +BY IDA PFEIFFER. + +An unabridged translation from the German. + + + +PREFACE. + + + +I have been called, in many of the public journals, a "professed +tourist;" but I am sorry to say that I have no title to the +appellation in its usual sense. On the one hand I possess too +little wit and humour to render my writings amusing; and, on the +other, too little knowledge to judge rightly of what I have gone +through. The only gift to which I can lay claim is that of +narrating in a simple manner the different scenes in which I have +played a part, and the different objects I have beheld; if I ever +pronounce an opinion, I do so merely on my own personal experience. + +Many will perhaps believe that I undertook so long a journey from +vanity. I can only say in answer to this--whoever thinks so should +make such a trip himself, in order to gain the conviction, that +nothing but a natural wish for travel, a boundless desire of +acquiring knowledge, could ever enable a person to overcome the +hardships, privations, and dangers to which I have been exposed. + +In exactly the same manner as the artist feels an invincible desire +to paint, and the poet to give free course to his thoughts, so was I +hurried away with an unconquerable wish to see the world. In my +youth I dreamed of travelling--in my old age I find amusement in +reflecting on what I have beheld. + +The public received very favourably my plain unvarnished account of +"A Voyage to the Holy Land, and to Iceland and Scandinavia." +Emboldened by their kindness, I once more step forward with the +journal of my last and most considerable voyage, and I shall feel +content if the narration of my adventures procures for my readers +only a portion of the immense fund of pleasure derived from the +voyage by + + THE AUTHORESS. + +Vienna, March 16, 1850. + + + +With the hope that we may forward the views of the authoress, and be +the means of exciting the public attention to her position and +wants, we append the following statement by Mr. A. Petermann, which +appeared in the Athenaeum of the 6th of December, 1851: + +"Madame Pfeiffer came to London last April, with the intention of +undertaking a fresh journey; her love of travelling appearing not +only unabated, but even augmented by the success of her journey +round the world. She had planned, as her fourth undertaking, a +journey to some of those portions of the globe which she had not yet +visited--namely, Australia and the islands of the Asiatic +Archipelago; intending to proceed thither by the usual route round +the Cape. Her purpose was, however, changed while in London. The +recently discovered Lake Ngami, in Southern Africa, and the +interesting region to the north, towards the equator--the reflection +how successfully she had travelled among savage tribes, where armed +men hesitated to penetrate, how well she had borne alike the cold of +Iceland and the heat of Babylonia--and lastly, the suggestion that +she might be destined to raise the veil from some of the totally +unknown portions of the interior of Africa--made her determine on +stopping at the Cape, and trying to proceed thence, if possible, +northwards into the equatorial regions of the African Continent. + +"Madame Pfeiffer left for the Cape, on the 22nd of May last, in a +sailing vessel--her usual mode of travelling by sea, steamboats +being too expensive. She arrived safely at Cape Town on the 11th of +August, as I learned from a letter which I received from her last +week, dated the 20th of August. From that letter the following are +extracts:-- + +"'The impression which this place (Cape Town) made on me, was not an +agreeable one. The mountains surrounding the town are bare, the +town itself (London being still fresh in my recollection) resembles +a village. The houses are of only one story, with terraces instead +of roofs. From the deck of the vessel a single tree was visible, +standing on a hill. In short, on my arrival I was at once much +disappointed, and this disappointment rather increases than +otherwise. In the town the European mode of living is entirely +prevalent--more so than in any other place abroad that I have seen. +I have made a good many inquiries as to travelling into the +interior; and have been, throughout, assured that the natives are +everywhere kindly disposed to travellers, and that as a woman I +should be able to penetrate much farther than a man,--and I have +been strongly advised to undertake a journey as far as the unknown +lakes, and even beyond. Still, with all these splendid prospects +and hopes, I fear I shall travel less in this country than in any +other. Here, the first thing you are told is, that you must +purchase waggons, oxen, horses, asses,--hire expensive guides, etc., +etc. How far should I reach in this way with my 100 pounds +sterling? I will give you an example of the charges in this +country:--for the carriage of my little luggage to my lodgings I had +to pay 10s. 6d.! I had previously landed in what I thought the most +expensive places in the world--London, Calcutta, Canton, etc.--had +everywhere a much greater distance to go from the vessel to my +lodgings, and nowhere had I paid half of what they charged me here. +Board and lodging I have also found very dear. Fortunately, I have +been very kindly received into the house of Mr. Thaewitzer, the +Hamburgh consul, where I live, very agreeably, but do not much +advance the object which brought me here. I shall, in the course of +the month, undertake a short journey with some Dutch boers to Klein +Williams; and I fear that this will form the beginning and the end +of my travels in this country.' + +"From these extracts it will be seen that the resolute lady has at +her command but very slender means for the performance of her +journeys. The sum of 100 pounds, which was granted to her by the +Austrian government, forms the whole of her funds. Private +resources she has none. It took her twenty years to save enough +money to perform her first journey!--namely, that to the Holy Land. +While in London, she received scarcely any encouragement; and her +works were not appreciated by the public, or indeed known, till she +had left this country. It is to be regretted that the want of a +little pecuniary assistance should deter the enterprising lady from +carrying out her projected journey in Southern Africa. Though not a +scientific traveller, she is a faithful recorder of what she sees +and hears; and she is prepared to note the bearings and distances of +the journey, make meteorological observations, and keep a careful +diary--so that the results of her projected journey would perhaps be +of as much interest as those of other travellers of greater +pretensions." + + + +CONTENTS. + + + +CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS. + +CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AND SOJOURN IN RIO JANEIRO. + +CHAPTER III. EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF RIO JANEIRO. + +CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE BRAZILS. + +CHAPTER V. THE VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. + +CHAPTER VI. ARRIVAL AND RESIDENCE IN VALPARAISO. + +CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE FROM VALPARAISO TO CANTON, VIA TAHITI. + +CHAPTER VIII. CHINA. + +CHAPTER IX. THE EAST INDIES--SINGAPORE. + +CHAPTER X. THE EAST INDIES--CEYLON. + +CHAPTER XI. MADRAS AND CALCUTTA. + +CHAPTER XII. BENARES. + +CHAPTER XIII. ALLAHABAD, AGRA, AND DELHI. + +CHAPTER XIV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY. + +CHAPTER XV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY, CONTINUED. + +CHAPTER XVI. CONTINUATION OF JOURNEY AND SOJOURN. + +CHAPTER XVII. FROM BOMBAY TO BAGHDAD. + +CHAPTER XVIII. MESOPOTAMIA, BAGHDAD, AND BABYLON. + +CHAPTER XIX. MOSUL AND NINEVEH. + +CHAPTER XX. PERSIA. + +CHAPTER XXI. SOJOURN IN TEBRIS. + +CHAPTER XXII. ASIATIC RUSSIA--ARMENIA, GEORGIA, AND MINGRELIA. + +CHAPTER XXIII. EUROPEAN RUSSIA. + +CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS. + + + +CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA--STAY IN HAMBURGH--STEAMERS AND SAILING +VESSELS--DEPARTURE FROM HAMBURGH--CUXHAVEN--THE BRITISH CHANNEL-- +FLYING-FISH--THE PHISOLIDA--CONSTELLATIONS--PASSING THE LINE--THE +"VAMPEROS"--A GALE AND STORM--CAPE FRIO--ARRIVAL IN THE PORT OF RIO +JANEIRO. + +On the first of May, 1846, I left Vienna, and, with the exception of +slight stoppages at Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, proceeded directly +to Hamburgh, there to embark for the Brazils. In Prague I had the +pleasure of meeting Count Berchthold, who had accompanied me during +a portion of my journey in the East. He informed me that he should +like to be my companion in the voyage to the Brazils, and I promised +to wait for him in Hamburgh. + +I had a second most interesting meeting on the steamer from Prague +to Dresden, namely, with the widow of Professor Mikan. In the year +1817, this lady had, on the occasion of the marriage of the Austrian +Princess Leopaldine with Don Pedro I., followed her husband to the +Brazils, and afterwards made with him a scientific journey into the +interior of the country. + +I had often heard this lady's name mentioned, and my joy at making +her personal acquaintance was very great. In the kindest and most +amiable manner she communicated to me the results of her long +experience, and added advice and rules of conduct, which proved +afterwards highly useful. + +I arrived in Hamburgh on the 12th of May; and, as early as the 13th, +might have embarked on board a fine fast-sailing brig, which, +besides, was christened the "Ida," like myself. With a heavy heart +I saw this fine vessel set sail. I was obliged to remain behind, as +I had promised my travelling companion to await his arrival. Week +after week elapsed, with nothing but the fact of my staying with my +relatives to lighten the dreariness of suspense; at last, about the +middle of June, the Count came, and shortly afterwards we found a +vessel--a Danish brig, the "Caroline," Captain Bock, bound for Rio +Janeiro. + +I had now before me a long voyage, which could not be made under two +months at the least, and which, possibly, might last three or four. +Luckily I had already lived for a considerable period on board +sailing vessels during my former travels, and was therefore +acquainted with their arrangements, which are very different from +those of steamers. On board a steamer everything is agreeable and +luxurious; the vessel pursues her rapid course independent of the +wind, and the passengers enjoy good and fresh provisions, spacious +cabins, and excellent society. + +In sailing vessels all this is very different, as, with the +exception of the large East Indiamen, they are not fitted up for +passengers. In them the cargo is looked upon as the principal +thing, and in the eyes of the crew passengers are a troublesome +addition, whose comfort is generally very little studied. The +captain is the only person who takes any interest in them, since a +third or even the half of the passage-money falls to his share. + +The space, too, is so confined, that you can hardly turn yourself +round in the sleeping cabins, while it is quite impossible to stand +upright in the berths. Besides this, the motion of a sailing vessel +is much stronger than that of a steamer; on the latter, however, +many affirm that the eternal vibration, and the disagreeable odour +of the oil and coals, are totally insupportable. For my own part, I +never found this to be the case; it certainly is unpleasant, but +much easier to bear than the many inconveniences always existing on +board a sailing vessel. The passenger is there a complete slave to +every whim or caprice of the captain, who is an absolute sovereign +and holds uncontrolled sway over everything. Even the food depends +upon his generosity, and although it is generally not absolutely +bad, in the best instances, it is not equal to that on board a +steamer. + +The following form the ordinary diet: tea and coffee without milk, +bacon and junk, soup made with pease or cabbage, potatoes, hard +dumplings, salted cod, and ship-biscuit. On rare occasions, ham, +eggs, fish, pancakes, or even skinny fowls, are served out. It is +very seldom, in small ships, that bread can be procured. + +To render the living more palatable, especially on a long voyage, +passengers would do well to take with them a few additions to the +ship's fare. The most suitable are: portable soup and captain's +biscuit--both of which should be kept in tin canisters to preserve +them from mouldiness and insects--a good quantity of eggs, which, +when the vessel is bound for a southern climate, should first be +dipped in strong lime-water or packed in coal-dust; rice, potatoes, +sugar, butter, and all the ingredients for making sangaree and +potato-salad, the former being very strengthening and the latter +very cooling. I would strongly recommend those who have children +with them to take a goat as well. + +As regards wine, passengers should take especial care to ask the +captain whether this is included in the passage-money, otherwise it +will have to be purchased from him at a very high rate. + +There are also other objects which must not be forgotten, and above +all a mattress, bolster, and counterpane, as the berths are +generally unfurnished. These can be purchased very cheaply in any +seaport town. + +Besides this, it is likewise advisable to take a stock of coloured +linen. The office of washerwoman is filled by a sailor, so that it +may easily be imagined that the linen does not return from the wash +in the best possible condition. + +When the sailors are employed in shifting the sails, great care must +be taken to avoid injury by the falling of any of the ropes. But +all these inconveniences are comparatively trifling; the greatest +amount of annoyance begins towards the end of the voyage. The +captain's mistress is his ship. At sea he allows her to wear an +easy neglige, but in port she must appear in full dress. Not a sign +of the long voyage, of the storms, of the glowing heat she has +suffered, must be visible. Then begins an incessant hammering, +planing, and sawing; every flaw, every crack or injury is made good, +and, to wind up, the whole vessel is painted afresh. The worst of +all, however, is the hammering when the cracks in the deck are being +repaired and filled up with pitch. This is almost unbearable. + +But enough of annoyances. I have described them merely to prepare, +in some degree, those who have never been to sea. Persons residing +in sea-port towns do not, perhaps, stand in need of this, for they +hear these matters mentioned every day; but such is not the case +with us poor souls, who have lived all our lives in inland cities. +Very often we hardly know how a steamer or a sailing vessel looks, +much less the mode of life on board them. I speak from experience, +and know too well what I myself suffered on my first voyage, simply +because, not having been warned beforehand, I took nothing with me +save a small stock of linen and clothes. + +At present I will proceed with the progress of my voyage. We +embarked on the evening of the 28th of June, and weighed anchor +before daybreak of the 29th. The voyage did not commence in any +very encouraging manner; we had very little, in fact almost no wind +at all, and compared to us every pedestrian appeared to be running a +race: we made the nine miles to Blankenese in seven hours. + +Luckily the slow rate at which we proceeded was not so disagreeable, +as, at first, for a considerable period we beheld the magnificent +port, and afterwards could admire, on the Holstein side, the +beautiful country houses of the rich Hamburghers, situated upon +charming eminences and surrounded by lovely gardens. The opposite +side, belonging to Hanover, is as flat and monotonous as the other +is beautiful. About here the Elbe, in many places, is from three to +four miles broad. + +Before reaching Blankenese the ships take in their stock of water +from the Elbe. This water, although of a dirty and thick +appearance, is said to possess the valuable quality of resisting +putridity for years. + +We did not reach Gluckstadt (37 miles from Hamburgh) before the +morning of the 30th. As there was not now a breath of wind, we were +entirely at the mercy of the stream, and began drifting back. The +captain, therefore, ordered the men to cast anchor, and profited by +the leisure thus forced upon him to have the chests and boxes made +fast on the deck and in the hold. We idlers had permission granted +us to land and visit the town, in which, however, we found but +little to admire. + +There were eight passengers on board. The four cabin places were +taken by Count B--, myself, and two young people who hoped to make +their fortune sooner in the Brazils than in Europe. The price of a +passage in the first cabin was 100 dollars (20 pounds 16s. 8d.), and +in the steerage 50 dollars (10 pounds 8s. 4d.). + +In the steerage, besides two worthy tradesmen, was a poor old woman +who was going, in compliance with the wish of her only son, who had +settled in the Brazils, to join him there, and a married woman whose +husband had been working as a tailor for the last six years in Rio +Janeiro. People soon become acquainted on board ship, and generally +endeavour to agree as well as possible, in order to render the +monotony of a long voyage at all supportable. + +On the 1st of July we again set sail in rather stormy weather. We +made a few miles, but were soon obliged to cast anchor once more. +The Elbe is here so wide, that we could hardly see its banks, and +the swell so strong, that sea-sickness began to manifest itself +among our company. On the 2nd of July, we again attempted to weigh +anchor, but with no better success than the day before. Towards +evening we saw some dolphins, called also _tummler_, or tumblers, as +well as several gulls, which announced to us that we were fast +nearing the sea. + +A great many vessels passed quickly by us. Ah! they could turn to +account the storm and wind which swelled out their sails, and drove +them rapidly towards the neighbouring port. We grudged them their +good fortune; and perhaps we had to thank this specimen of Christian +love on our part, that on the 3rd of July, we had not got further +than Cuxhaven, seventy-four miles from Hamburgh. + +The 4th of July was a beautifully fine day, for those who could +remain quietly on shore; but for those on board ship it was bad +enough, as there was not the slightest breath of wind stirring. To +get rid of our lamentations, the captain launched out in praises of +the charming little town, and had us conveyed to land. We visited +the town, as well as the bathing establishment and the lighthouse, +and afterwards actually proceeded as far as a place called the +"Bush," where, as we were told, we should find a great abundance of +strawberries. After wandering about, over fields and meadows, for a +good hour in the glowing heat, we found the Bush, it is true, but +instead of strawberries, discovered only frogs and adders there. + +We now proceeded into the scanty wood, where we saw about twenty +tents erected. A bustling landlord came up, and offering us some +glasses of bad milk, said that every year a fair is held in the Bush +for three weeks, or rather, on three successive Sundays, for during +the week days the booths are closed. The landlady also came +tripping towards us, and invited us, in a very friendly manner, to +spend the next Sunday with them. She assured us that we should +"amuse ourselves charmingly;" that we elder members of the company +should find entertainment in the wonderful performances of the +tumblers and jugglers, and the younger gentlemen find spruce young +girls for partners in the dance. + +We expressed ourselves much pleased at this invitation, promised to +be sure to come, and then extended our walk to Ritzebuttel, where we +admired a small castle and a miniature park. + +5th July. Nothing is so changeable as the weather: yesterday we +were revelling in sunshine, and today we were surrounded by a thick, +dark fog; and yet this, bad as it was, we found more agreeable than +the fine weather of the day before, for a slight breeze sprang up, +and at nine o'clock in the morning, we heard the rattling of the +capstan, as the anchor was being weighed. In consequence of this, +the young people were obliged to give up the idea of an excursion to +the Bush, and defer all dancing with pretty girls until their +arrival in another hemisphere, for it was fated that they should not +set foot in Europe again. + +The transition from the Elbe to the North Sea is scarcely +perceptible, as the Elbe is not divided into different channels, but +is eight or ten miles broad at its mouth. It almost forms a small +sea of itself, and has even the green hue of one. We were, +consequently, very much surprised, on hearing the captain exclaim, +in a joyful tone, "We are out of the river at last." We imagined +that we had long since been sailing upon the wide ocean. + +In the afternoon, we bore in sight of the island of Heligoland, +which belongs to the English, and presented really a magical +appearance, as it rose out from the sea. It is a barren, colossal +rock; and had I not learned, from one of the newest works on +geography, that it was peopled by about 2,500 souls, I should have +supposed the whole island to have been uninhabited. On three sides, +the cliffs rise so precipitously from the waves, that all access is +impossible. + +We sailed by the place at a considerable distance, and saw only the +towers of the church and lighthouse, in addition to the so-called +"Monk," a solitary, perpendicular rock, that is separated from the +main body, between which and it there sparkles a small strip of sea. + +The inhabitants are very poor. The only sources of their livelihood +are fishing and bathing visitors. A great number of the latter come +every year, as the bathing, on account of the extraordinary swell, +is reckoned extremely efficacious. Unfortunately, great fears are +entertained that this watering-place cannot exist much longer, as +every year the island decreases in size, from the continual falling +away of large masses of rock, so that some day the whole place may +disappear into the sea. + +From the 5th to the 10th of July, we had continued stormy and cold +weather, with a heavy sea, and great rolling of the ship. All we +poor "land-lubbers" were suffering from sea sickness. We first +entered the British Channel, also called "La Manche" (420 miles from +Cuxhaven) in the night of the 10-11th. + +We awaited with impatience the rising of the sun, which would +display to our gaze two of the mightiest powers in Europe. Luckily, +the day was fine and clear, and the two kingdoms lay before us, in +such magnificence and proximity, that the beholder was almost +inclined to believe that a sister people inhabited both countries. + +On the coast of England, we saw the North Foreland, the Castle of +Sandown, and the town of Deal, stretching out at the foot of the +cliffs, which extend for many miles, and are about 150 feet high. +Further on, we came in sight of the South Foreland; and lastly, the +ancient castle of Dover, that sits right bravely enthroned upon an +eminence, and overlooks the surrounding country, far and wide. The +town itself lies upon the sea-shore. + +Opposite Dover, at the narrowest part of the channel, we +distinguished, on the French coast, Cape Grisnez, where Napoleon +erected a small building, in order, it is said, to be at least able +to see England; and, further on, the obelisk raised in memory of the +camp at Boulogne, by Napoleon, but completed under Louis Philippe. + +The wind being unfavourable, we were obliged, during the night, to +tack in the neighbourhood of Dover. The great darkness which +covered both land and sea rendered this maneuvre a very dangerous +one; firstly, on account of the proximity of the coast; and, +secondly, on account of the number of vessels passing up and down +the channel. To avoid a collision, we hung out a lantern on the +foremast, while, from time to time, a torch was lighted, and held +over the side, and the bell frequently kept sounding: all very +alarming occurrences to a person unused to the sea. + +For fourteen days were we prisoners in the 360 miles of the Channel, +remaining very often two or three days, as if spell-bound, in the +same place, while we were frequently obliged to cruise for whole +days to make merely a few miles; and near Start we were overtaken by +a tolerably violent storm. During the night I was suddenly called +upon deck. I imagined that some misfortune had happened, and +hastily throwing a few clothes on, hurried up--to enjoy the +astonishing spectacle of a "sea-fire." In the wake of the vessel I +behold a streak of fire so strong that it would have been easy to +read by its light; the water round the ship looked like a glowing +stream of lava, and every wave, as it rose up, threw out sparks of +fire. The track of the fish was surrounded by dazzling inimitable +brilliancy, and far and wide everything was one dazzling +coruscation. + +This extraordinary illumination of the sea is of very unfrequent +occurrence, and rarely happens after long-continued, violent storms. +The captain told me that he had never yet beheld the sea so lighted +up. For my part, I shall never forget the sight. + +A second, and hardly less beautiful, spectacle came under our +observation at another time, when, after a storm, the clouds, gilt +by the rays of the sun, were reflected as in a mirror on the bosom +of the sea. They glittered and shone with an intensity of colour +which surpassed even those of the rainbow. + +We had full leisure to contemplate Eddystone Lighthouse, which is +the most celebrated building of the kind in Europe, as we were +cruising about for two days in sight of it. Its height, and the +boldness and strength with which it is built, are truly wonderful; +but still more wonderful is its position upon a dangerous reef, +situated ten miles from the coast; at a distance, it seems to be +founded in the sea itself. + +We often sailed so near the coast of Cornwall, that not only could +we plainly perceive every village, but even the people in the +streets and in the open country. The land is hilly and luxuriant, +and appears carefully cultivated. + +During the whole time of our cruising in the Channel, the +temperature was cold and raw, the thermometer seldom being higher +than 65 to 75 degrees Fah. + +At last, on the 24th of July, we came to the end of the Channel, and +attained the open sea; the wind was tolerably favourable, and on the +2nd of August we were off Gibraltar, where we were becalmed for +twenty-four hours. The captain threw several pieces of white +crockeryware, as well as a number of large bones overboard, to show +how beautifully green such objects appeared as they slowly sank down +beneath the sea; of course this can only be seen in a perfect calm. + +In the evening we were greatly delighted by numbers of moluscae +shining through the water; they looked exactly like so many floating +stars, about the size of a man's hand; even by day we could perceive +them beneath the waves. They are of a brownish red, and in form +resemble a toadstool; many had a thick pedicle, somewhat fimbriated +on the under part; others, instead of the pedicle, had a number of +threads hanging down from them. + +4th August. This was the first day that it was announced by the +heat that we were in a southern latitude; but, as was also the case +the following day, the clear dark blue sky that generally overarches +the Mediterranean in such exceeding loveliness, was still wanting. +We found, however, some slight compensation for this in the rising +and setting of the sun, as these were often accompanied by unusual +forms and colours of the clouds. + +We were now off Morocco, and were fortunate enough today to perceive +a great number of bonitos. Every one on board bestirred himself, +and on every side fish hooks were cast overboard; unluckily only one +bonito allowed himself to be entrapped by our friendly invitations; +he made a dart at the bait, and his good-natured confidence procured +us a fresh meal, of which we had long been deprived. + +On the 5th of August we saw land for the first time for twelve days. +The sun was rising as the little island of Porto Santo greeted our +sight. It is formed of peaked mountains, which, by their shape, +betray their volcanic origin. A few miles in advance of the island +stands the beautiful Falcon Rock, like a sentinel upon the look-out. +We sailed past Madeira (23 miles from Porto Santo) the same day, but +unluckily at such a distance that we could only perceive the long +mountain chains by which the island is intersected. Near Madeira +lie the rocky Deserta Islands, which are reckoned as forming part of +Africa. + +Near these islands we passed a vessel running under reefed sails +before the wind, whence the captain concluded that she was a cruiser +looking after slavers. + +On the 6th of August we beheld, for the first time, flying fish, but +at such a distance that we could scarcely distinguish them. + +On the 7th of August we neared the Canary Isles, but unfortunately, +on account of the thick fog, we could not see them. We now caught +the trade wind, that blows from the east, and is anxiously desired +by all sailors. + +In the night of the 9-10th we entered the tropics. We were now in +daily expectation of greater heat and a clearer sky, but met with +neither. The atmosphere was dull and hazy, and even in our own raw +fatherland the sky could not have been so overcast, except upon some +days in November. Every evening the clouds were piled upon one +another in such a way that we were continually expecting to see a +water-spout; it was generally not before midnight that the heavens +would gradually clear up, and allow us to admire the beautiful and +dazzling constellations of the South. + +The captain told us that this was the fourteenth voyage he had made +to the Brazils, during which time he had always found the heat very +easily borne, and had never seen the sky otherwise than dull and +lowering. He said that this was occasioned by the damp, unhealthy +coast of Guinea, the ill effects of which were perceptible much +further than where we then were, although the distance between us +was 350 miles. + +In the tropics the quick transition from day to night is already +very perceptible; 35 or 40 minutes after the setting of the sun the +deepest darkness reigns around. The difference in the length of day +and night decreases more and more the nearer you approach the +Equator. At the Equator itself the day and night are of equal +duration. + +All the 14th and 15th of August we sailed parallel with the Cape de +Verde Islands, from which we were not more than 23 miles distant, +but which, on account of the hazy state of the weather, we could not +see. + +During this period we used to be much amused by small flocks of +flying-fish, which very often rose from the water so near the ship's +side that we were enabled to examine them minutely. They are +generally of the size and colour of a herring; their side fins, +however, are longer and broader, and they have the power of +spreading and closing them like little wings. They raise themselves +about twelve or fifteen feet above the water, and then, after flying +more than a distance of a hundred feet, dive down again for a moment +beneath the waves, to recommence directly afterwards: this occurs +most frequently when they are pursued by bonitos or other foes. +When they were flying at some distance from the ship they really +looked like elegant birds. We very frequently saw the bonitos also, +who were pursuing them, endeavour to raise themselves above the +water, but they seldom succeeded in raising more than their head. + +It is very difficult to catch one of these little denizens of the +air, as they are to be secured neither by nets or hooks; but +sometimes the wind will drive them, during the night, upon the deck, +where they are discovered, in the morning, dead, not having +sufficient strength to raise themselves from dry places; in this way +I obtained a few specimens. + +Today, August 15th, we enjoyed a most interesting sight. We +happened, exactly at 12 o'clock, to be in the sun's zenith, and the +sunbeams fell so perpendicularly that every object was perfectly +shadowless. We put books, chairs, ourselves in the sun, and were +highly delighted with this unusual kind of amusement. Luckily we +had chanced to be at the right spot at the right time; had we, at +the same hour, been only one degree nearer or one degree further, we +should have lost the entire sight; when we saw it we were 14 degrees +6' (a minute is equal to a nautical mile). + +All observations with the sextant {9} were out of the question until +we were once more some degrees from the zenith. + +17th August. Shoals of tunny-fish, (fish four and five feet long, +and belonging to the dolphin tribe,) were seen tumbling about the +ship. A harpoon was quickly procured, and one of the sailors sent +out with it on the bowsprit; but whether he had bad luck, or was +unskilled in the art of harpooning, he missed his mark. The most +wonderful part of the story, though, was that all the fish +disappeared as if by magic, and did not appear again for some days; +it seemed as if they had whispered and warned each other of the +threatened danger. + +All the oftener, however, did we see another inhabitant of the sea, +namely, that beautiful mollusca, the physolida, called by the +sailors Portugiesisches Segel-schiff; (Portuguese sailing-ship.) +When floating upon the surface of the sea, with its long crest, +which it can elevate or depress at pleasure, it really resembles a +delicate tiny little sailing vessel. I was very desirous of +catching one of these little creatures, but this could only be +effected by means of a net, which I had not got, nor had I either +needle or twine to make one. Necessity, however, is the mother of +invention; so I manufactured a knitting needle of wood, unravelled +some thick string, and in a few hours possessed a net. Very soon +afterwards a mollusca had been captured, and placed in a tub filled +with sea water. The little creature's body is about six inches long +and two inches high; the crest extends over the whole of the back, +and in the middle, where it is highest, measures about an inch and a +half. Both the crest and body are transparent, and appear as if +tinged with rose colour; from the belly, which is violet, are +suspended a number of threads or arms of the same colour. + +I hung the little thing up to dry at the stern, outside the ship; +some of the threads reached down into the water (a depth of at least +twelve feet), but most of them fell off. After the animal was dead, +the crest remained erect, and the body perfectly filled out, but the +beautiful rose colour gradually changed to white. + +18th August. Today we had a heavy thunder-storm, for which we were +very grateful, as it cooled the air considerably. Between 1 and 2 +degrees, or 3 degrees North latitude, frequent changes in the +weather are very common. For instance, on the morning of the 20th +we were overtaken by a strong wind, which lashed up the sea to a +great height, and continued until evening, when it gave way to a +tropical shower, which we at home should call a perfect water-spout. +The deck was instantaneously transformed into a lake, while at the +same time the wind had so completely fallen that even the rudder +enjoyed a holiday. + +This rain cost me a night's rest, for when I went to take possession +of my berth, I found the bed-clothes drenched through and through, +and was fain to content myself with a wooden bench for a couch. + +On the 27th of August we got beyond these hostile latitudes, and +were received by the anxiously desired south-east trade wind, which +hurried us quickly on our voyage. + +We were now very near the Equator, and, like all other travellers, +wished very much to see the celebrated constellations of the south. +I myself was most interested in the Southern Cross; and, as I could +not find it among the stars, I begged the captain to point it out to +me. Both he and the first mate, however, said that they had never +heard of it, and the second mate was the only one to whom it did not +appear entirely unknown. With his help, we really did discover in +the spangled firmament four stars, which had something of the form +of a somewhat crooked cross, but were certainly not remarkable in +themselves, nor did they excite the least enthusiasm amongst us. A +most magnificent spectacle was, on the contrary, formed by Orion, +Jupiter, and Venus; the latter, indeed, shone so brilliantly that +her gleams formed a silver furrow across the waves. + +The great frequency of falling stars is another fact that I cannot +corroborate. They are, perhaps, more frequent than in cold +climates, but are far from being as common as is said: and as for +their size, I saw only one which surpassed ours; and this appeared +about three times as large as an ordinary star. + +For some days also we had now seen the Cape, or Magellan's Clouds, +and also the so-called Black Cloud. The first are bright, and, like +the Milky Way, are formed of numberless small stars, invisible to +the naked eye; the latter presents a black appearance, and is said +to be produced by the absence of all stars whatever from this part +of the heavens. + +All these different signs prepared us for the most interesting +moment of our voyage--namely, passing the line. + +On the 29th of August, at 10 o'clock P.M., we saluted the southern +hemisphere for the first time. A feeling nearly allied to pride +excited every one, but more especially those who crossed the line +for the first time. We shook each other by the hand, and +congratulated one another mutually, as if we had done some great and +heroic deed. One of the passengers had brought with him a bottle or +two of champagne to celebrate the event: the corks sprang gaily in +the air, and with a joyful "huzza," the health of the new hemisphere +was drunk. + +No festivities took place among the crew. This is at present the +case in most vessels, as such amusements seldom end without +drunkenness and disorder. The sailors, however, could not let the +cabin-boy, who passed the line for the first time, go quite scot- +free; so he was well christened in a few buckets of salt water. + +Long before passing the line, we passengers had frequently spoken of +all the sufferings and tortures we should be subjected to at the +Equator. Every one had read or heard something exceedingly +horrible, which he duly communicated to all the rest. One expected +headache or colic; a second had pictured to himself the sailors +falling down from exhaustion; a third dreaded such a fearful degree +of heat, that it would not only melt the pitch, {11} but would so +dry up the ship, that nothing but continual throwing water over it +could prevent its catching fire; while a fourth feared that all the +provisions would be spoilt, and ourselves nearly starved to death. + +For my own part, I had already congratulated myself on the tragical +stories I should be able to present to my readers; I beheld them +shedding tears at the narration of the sufferings we had +experienced, and I already appeared to myself half a martyr. Alas! +I was sadly deceived. We all remained in perfectly good health; not +a sailor sank exhausted; the ship did not catch fire; and the +provisions were not spoilt--they were just as bad as before. + +3rd September. From 2 to 3 degrees South latitude the wind is very +irregular, and frequently excessively violent. Today we passed the +8 degrees South latitude, without seeing land, which put the captain +in the best of humours. He explained to us, that if we had seen +land, we should have been obliged to retrace our course almost to +the line, because the current sets in with such violence towards the +land, that the voyage could only be made at a proper distance. + +7th September. Between 10 and 20 degrees South latitude we again +met with very peculiar prevalent winds. They are called vamperos; +and oblige the sailor to be always on his guard, as they spring up +very suddenly, and are often extremely violent. We were overtaken +by one during the night, but, luckily, it was not of the worst kind. +In a few hours it had entirely passed over, but the sea did not +become calm again for a considerable time. + +On the 9th and 11th of September, we encountered some short gusts of +the vamperos, the most violent being the last. + +12th and 13th of September. The first was termed by the captain +merely "a stiffish breeze;" but the second was entered in the log +{12} as "a storm." The stiffish breeze cost us one sail; the storm, +two. During the time it lasted, the sea ran so high, that it was +with the greatest difficulty we could eat. With one hand we were +obliged to grasp the plate, and at the same time to hold fast on to +the table, while, with the other, we managed, with considerable +difficulty, to convey the food to our mouth. At night, I was +obliged to "stow" myself firmly in my berth with my cloaks and +dresses, to protect my body from being bruised black and blue. + +On the morning of the 13th, I was on deck at break of day. The +helmsman led me to the side of the vessel, and told me to hold my +head overboard, and inhale the air. I breathed a most beautiful +perfume of flowers. I looked round in astonishment, and imagined +that I must already be able to see the land: it was, however, still +far distant, the soft perfume being merely drifted to us by the +wind. It was very remarkable that inside the ship this perfume was +not at all perceptible. + +The sea itself was covered with innumerable dead butterflies and +moths, which had been carried out to sea by the storm. Two pretty +little birds, quite exhausted by their long flight, were resting +upon one of the yards. + +For us, who, during two months and a half, had seen nothing but sky +and water, all these things were most satisfactory; and we looked +out anxiously for Cape Frio, which we were very near. The horizon, +however, was lowering and hazy, and the sun had not force enough to +tear the murky veil asunder. We looked forward with joy to the next +morning, but during the night were overtaken by another storm, which +lasted until 2 o'clock. The ship's course was changed, and she was +driven as far as possible into the open sea; so that, in the end, we +were glad enough to reach, the next day, the same position we had +occupied the morning before. + +Today we caught no glimpse of land; but a few gulls and albatrosses +from Cape Frio warned us that we were near it, and afforded us some +little amusement. They swam close up to the ship's side, and +eagerly swallowed every morsel of bread or meat that was thrown to +them. The sailors tried to catch some with a hook and line, and +were fortunate enough to succeed. They were placed upon the deck, +and, to my great surprise, I perceived that they were unable to +raise themselves from it. If we touched them, they merely dragged +themselves, with great difficulty, a few paces further, although +they could rise very easily from the surface of the water, and fly +extremely high. + +One of the gentlemen was exceedingly anxious to kill and stuff one +of them, but the superstition of the sailors was opposed to this. +They said that if birds were killed on board ship, their death would +be followed by long calms. We yielded to their wishes and restored +the little creatures to the air and waves, their native elements. + +This was another proof that superstition is still deep-rooted in the +minds of sailors. Of this we had afterwards many other instances. +The captain, for example, was always very averse to the passengers +amusing themselves with cards or any other game of chance; in +another vessel, as I was informed, no one was allowed to write on +Sunday, etc. Empty casks or logs of wood were also very frequently +thrown overboard during a calm--probably as sacrifices to the +deities of the winds. + +On the morning of the 16th of September we at last had the good +fortune to perceive the mountains before Rio Janeiro, and soon +singled out the Sugarloaf. At 2 o'clock, P.M., we entered the bay +and port of Rio Janeiro. + +Immediately at the entrance of the bay are several conical rocks, +some of which, like the Sugarloaf, rise singly from the sea, while +others are joined at the base, and are almost inaccessible. {13} +Between these "ocean mountains," if I may be allowed the expression, +are seen the most remarkably beautiful views; now extraordinary +ravines, then some charmingly situated quarter of the town, +presently the open sea, and the moment after some delightful bay. +From the bay itself, at the end of which the capital is built, rise +masses of rock, serving as foundations to different fortifications. +On some of these eminences are chapels and fortresses. Ships are +obliged to pass as near as possible to one of the largest of the +latter, namely, Santa Cruz, in order that their papers may be +examined. + +From this fortress, to the right, stretches the beautiful mountain +range of the Serados-Orgoas, which, in conjunction with other +mountains and hills, fringes a lovely bay, on the shores of which +lie the little town of Praya-grande, some few villages and detached +farmhouses. + +At the extremity of the principal bay, stands Rio Janeiro, +surrounded by a tolerably high chain of mountains (among which is +the Corcovado, 2,100 feet high), behind which, more inland, is the +Organ Mountain, which owes its name to its many gigantic peaks +placed upright one against the other like the pipes of an organ. +The highest peak is 5,000 feet high. + +One portion of the town is concealed by the Telegraph Mountain, and +several hills, on which, besides the Telegraph, there is a monastery +of Capuchin monks and other smaller buildings. Of the town itself +are seen several rows of houses and open squares, the Great +Hospital, the Monasteries of St. Luzia and Moro do Castello, the +Convent of St. Bento, the fine Church of St. Candelaria, and some +portions of the really magnificent aqueduct. Close to the sea is +the Public Garden (passeo publico) of the town, which, from its fine +palm trees, and elegant stone gallery, with two summer-houses, forms +a striking object. To the left, upon eminences, stand some isolated +churches and monasteries, such as St. Gloria, St. Theresa, etc. +Near these are the Praya Flamingo and Botafogo, large villages with +beautiful villas, pretty buildings, and gardens, which stretch far +away until lost in the neighbourhood of the Sugarloaf, and thus +close this most wonderful panorama. In addition to all this, the +many vessels, partly in the harbour before the town, partly anchored +in the different bays, the rich and luxuriant vegetation, and the +foreign and novel appearance of the whole, help to form a picture, +of whose beauties my pen, unfortunately, can never convey an +adequate idea. + +It rarely happens that a person is so lucky as to enjoy, immediately +on his arrival, so beautiful and extensive a view as fell to my lot; +fogs, clouds, or a hazy state of the atmosphere, very often conceal +certain portions, and thus disturb the wonderful impression of the +whole. Whenever this is the case, I would advise every one, who +intends stopping any time in Rio Janeiro, to take a boat, on a +perfectly clear day, as far as Santa Cruz, in order to behold this +peculiarly beautiful prospect. + +It was almost dark before we reached the place of anchorage. We +were first obliged to stop at Santa Cruz to have the ship's papers +examined, and then appear before an officer, who took from us our +passports and sealed letters; then before a surgeon, who inspected +us to see that we had not brought the plague or yellow fever; and +lastly, before another officer, who took possession of different +packets and boxes, and assigned us the spot to anchor in. + +It was now too late for us to land, and the captain alone proceeded +on shore. We, however, remained for a long time on deck, +contemplating the magnificent picture before us, until both land and +sea lay shrouded in night. + +With a light heart did we all retire to rest; the goal of our long +voyage had been attained without any misfortune worthy of being +mentioned. A cruel piece of intelligence was in store for the poor +tailor's wife alone; but the good captain did not break it to her +today, in order to let her enjoy an undisturbed night's rest. As +soon as the tailor heard that his wife was really on her passage +out, he ran off with a negress, and left nought behind but--debts. + +The poor woman had given up a sure means of subsistence in her +native land (she supported herself by cleaning lace and ladies' +apparel), and had devoted her little savings to pay the expenses of +her voyage, and all to find herself deserted and helpless in a +strange hemisphere. {14} + +From Hamburgh to Rio Janeiro is about 8,750 miles. + + + +CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AND SOJOURN IN RIO JANEIRO. + + + +INTRODUCTION--ARRIVAL--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--THE BLACKS AND THEIR +RELATIONS TO THE WHITES--ARTS AND SCIENCES--FESTIVALS OF THE CHURCH-- +BAPTISM OF THE IMPERIAL PRINCESS--FETE IN THE BARRACKS--CLIMATE AND +VEGETATION--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS--A FEW WORDS TO EMIGRANTS. + +I remained in Rio Janeiro above two months, exclusive of the time +devoted to my different excursions into the interior of the country; +it is very far from my intention, however, to tire the reader with a +regular catalogue of every trifling and ordinary occurrence. I +shall content myself with describing the most striking features in +the town, and likewise in the manners and customs of the +inhabitants, according to the opportunities I possessed during my +stay to form an opinion of them. I shall then give an account of my +various excursions in an Appendix, and afterwards resume the thread +of my journal. + +It was on the morning of the 17th of September that, after the lapse +of nearly two months and a half, I first set foot upon dry land. +The captain himself accompanied the passengers on shore, after +having earnestly advised each one separately to be sure and smuggle +nothing, more especially sealed letters. "In no part of the world," +he assured us, "were the Custom-house officers so strict, and the +penalties so heavy." + +On coming in sight of the guard ship, we began to feel quite +frightened from this description, and made up our minds that we +should be examined from top to toe. The captain begged permission +to accompany us on shore; this was immediately granted, and the +whole ceremony was completed. During the entire period that we +lived on board the ship, and were continually going and coming to +and from the town, we never were subjected to any search; it was +only when we took chests and boxes with us that we were obliged to +proceed to the Custom-house, where all effects are strictly +examined, and a heavy duty levied upon merchandise, books, etc., +etc. + +We landed at the Praya dos Mineiros, a disgusting and dirty sort of +square, inhabited by a few dozen blacks, equally disgusting and +dirty, who were squatted on the ground, and praising at the top of +their voices the fruits and sweetmeats which they were offering for +sale. Thence we proceeded directly into the principal street (Rua +Direita), whose only beauty consists in its breadth. It contains +several public buildings, such as the Post-office, the Custom-house, +the Exchange, the Guard-house, etc.; all of which, however, are so +insignificant in appearance, that any one would pass them by +unnoticed, if there were not always a number of people loitering +before them. + +At the end of this street stands the Imperial Palace, a commonplace, +large building, exactly resembling a private house, without the +least pretensions to taste or architectural beauty. The square +before it (Largo do Paco), whose only ornament, a plain fountain, is +extremely dirty, and serves at night as a sleeping place for a +number of poor free negroes, who, on getting up in the morning, +perform the various duties of their toilet in public with the most +supreme indifference. A part of the square is walled off and +employed as a market for fish, fruit, vegetables, and poultry. + +Of the remaining streets the Rua Misericorda and the Rua Ouvidor are +the most interesting. The latter contains the finest and largest +shops; but we must not expect the magnificent establishments we +behold in the cities of Europe--in fact, we meet with little that is +beautiful or costly. The flower-shops were the only objects of +particular attraction for me. In these shops are exposed for sale +the most lovely artificial flowers, made of birds' feathers, fishes' +scales, and beetles' wings. + +Of the squares, the finest is the Largo do Rocio; the largest, the +Largo St. Anna. In the first, which is always kept tolerably clean, +stand the Opera-house, the Government-house, the Police-office, etc. +This, too, is the starting-place for most of the omnibuses, which +traverse the town in all directions. + +The last-named square is the dirtiest in the whole town. On +crossing it for the first time, I perceived lying about me half +putrid cats and dogs--and even a mule in the same state. The only +ornament of this square is a fountain, and I almost think I should +prefer it if the fountain were, in this case, taken away; for, as +soft water is not very abundant in Rio Janeiro, the washerwoman's +noble art pitches its tent wherever it finds any, and most willingly +of all when, at the same time, it meets with a good drying ground. +The consequence is, that in the Largo St. Anna there is always such +an amount of washing and drying, of squalling and screaming, that +you are glad to get away as quickly as possible. + +There is nothing remarkable in the appearance of the churches, +either inside or out. The Church and Cloister of St. Bento and the +Church of St. Candelaria are the most deceptive; from a distance +they have a very imposing look. + +The houses are built in the European fashion, but are small and +insignificant; most of them have only a ground-floor or single +story,--two stories are rarely met with. Neither are there any +terraces and verandahs adorned with elegant trellis-work and +flowers, as there are in other warm countries. Ugly little +balconies hang from the walls, while clumsy wooden shutters close up +the windows, and prevent the smallest sunbeam from penetrating into +the rooms, where everything is enveloped in almost perfect darkness. +This, however, is a matter of the greatest indifference to the +Brazilian ladies, who certainly never over-fatigue themselves with +reading or working. + +The town offers, therefore, very little in the way of squares, +streets, and buildings, which, for a stranger, can prove in the +least attractive; while the people that he meets are truly shocking-- +nearly all being negroes and negresses, with flat, ugly noses, +thick lips, and short woolly hair. They are, too, generally half +naked, with only a few miserable rags on their backs, or else they +are thrust into the worn-out European-cut clothes of their masters. +To every four or five blacks may be reckoned a mulatto, and it is +only here and there that a white man is to be seen. + +This horrible picture is rendered still more revolting by the +frequent bodily infirmities which everywhere meet the eye: among +these elephantiasis, causing horrible club-feet, is especially +conspicuous; there is, too, no scarcity of persons afflicted with +blindness and other ills. Even the cats and dogs, that run about +the gutters in great numbers, partake of the universal ugliness: +most of them are covered with the mange, or are full of wounds and +sores. I should like to be endowed with the magic power of +transporting hither every traveller who starts back with affright +from the lanes of Constantinople, and asserts that the sight of the +interior of this city destroys the effect produced by it when viewed +at a distance. + +It is true that the interior of Constantinople is exceedingly dirty, +and that the number of small houses, the narrow streets, the +unevenness of the pavement, the filthy dogs, etc., do not strike the +beholder as excessively picturesque; but then he soon comes upon +some magnificent edifice of the time of the Moors or Romans, some +wondrous mosque or majestic palace, and can continue his walk +through endless cemeteries and forests of dreamy cypresses. He +steps aside before a pasha or priest of high rank, who rides by on +his noble steed, surrounded by a brilliant retinue; he encounters +Turks in splendid costumes, and Turkish women with eyes that flash +through their veils like fire; he beholds Persians with their high +caps, Arabs with their nobly-formed features, dervises in fools'- +caps and plaited petticoats like women, and, now and then, some +carriage, beautifully painted and gilt, drawn by superbly +caparisoned oxen. All these different objects fully make up for +whatever amount of dirtiness may occasionally be met with. In Rio +Janeiro, however, there is nothing that can in any way amuse, or +atone for the horrible and disgusting sights which everywhere meet +the eye. + +It was not until I had been here several weeks that I became +somewhat accustomed to the appearance of the negroes and mulattoes. +I then discovered many very pretty figures among the young +negresses, and handsome, expressive countenances among the somewhat +dark-complexioned Brazilian and Portuguese women; the men seem, as +regards beauty, to be less favoured. + +The bustle in the streets is far less than what I had been led to +expect from the many descriptions I had heard, and is certainly not +to be compared to that at Naples or Messina. The greatest amount of +noise is made by those negroes who carry burdens, and especially by +such as convey the sacks full of coffee on board the different +vessels; they strike up a monotonous sort of song, to the tune of +which they keep step, but which sounds very disagreeable. It +possesses, however, one advantage; it warns the foot passenger, and +affords him time to get out of the way. + +In the Brazils, every kind of dirty or hard work, whether in doors +or out, is performed by the blacks, who here, in fact, replace the +lower classes. Many, however, learn trades, and frequently are to +be compared to the most skilful Europeans. I have seen blacks in +the most elegant workshops, making wearing apparel, shoes, tapestry, +gold or silver articles, and met many a nattily dressed negro maiden +working at the finest ladies' dresses, or the most delicate +embroidery. I often thought I must be dreaming when I beheld these +poor creatures, whom I had pictured to myself as roaming free +through their native forests, exercising such occupations in shops +and rooms! Yet they do not appear to feel it as much as might be +supposed--they were always merry, and joking over their work. + +Among the so-called educated class of the place, there are many who, +in spite of all the proofs of mechanical skill, as well as general +intelligence which the blacks often display, persist in asserting +that they are so far inferior to the whites in mental power, that +they can only be looked upon as a link between the monkey tribe and +the human race. I allow that they are somewhat behind the whites in +intellectual culture; but I believe that this is not because they +are deficient in understanding, but because their education is +totally neglected. No schools are erected for them, no instruction +given them--in a word, not the least thing is done to develop the +capabilities of their minds. As was the case in old despotic +countries, their minds are purposely kept enchained; for, were they +once to awake from their present condition, the consequences to the +whites might be fearful. They are four times as numerous as the +latter, and if they ever become conscious of this superiority, the +whites might probably be placed in the position that the unhappy +blacks have hitherto occupied. + +But I am losing myself in conjectures and reasonings which may, +perhaps, become the pen of a learned man, but certainly not mine, +since I assuredly do not possess the necessary amount of education +to decide upon such questions; my object is merely to give a plain +description of what I have seen. + +Although the number of slaves in the Brazils is very great, there is +nowhere such a thing as a slave-market. The importation of them is +publicly prohibited, yet thousands are smuggled in every year, and +disposed of in some underhand manner, which every one knows, and +every one employs. It is true, that English ships are constantly +cruising off the coasts of Brazil and Africa, but even if a slaver +happen to fall into their hands, the poor blacks, I was told, were +no more free than if they had come to the Brazils. They are all +transported to the English colonies, where, at the expiration of ten +years, they are supposed to be set at liberty. But during this +period, their owners allow the greater number to die--of course, in +the returns only--and the poor slaves remain slaves still; but I +repeat that I only know this from hearsay. + +After all, slaves are far from being as badly off as many Europeans +imagine. In the Brazils they are generally pretty well treated; +they are not overworked, their food is good and nutritious, and the +punishments are neither particularly frequent nor heavy. The crime +of running away is the only one which is visited with great rigour. +Besides a severe beating, they have fetters placed round their neck +and feet; these they have to wear for a considerable period. +Another manner of punishment consists in making them wear a tin +mask, which is fastened with a lock behind. This is the mode of +punishment adopted for those who drink, or are in the habit of +eating earth or lime. During my long stay in the Brazils, I only +saw one negro who had got on a mask of this description. I very +much doubt whether, on the whole, the lot of these slaves is not +less wretched than that of the peasants of Russia, Poland, or Egypt, +who are _not_ called slaves. + +I was one day very much amused at being asked to stand godmother to +a negro, which I did, although I was not present at either baptism +or confirmation. There is a certain custom here, that when a slave +has done anything for which he expects to be punished, he endeavours +to fly to some friend of his owner, and obtain a note, asking for +the remission of his punishment. The writer of such a letter has +the title of godfather bestowed on him, and it would be accounted an +act of the greatest impoliteness not to grant the godfather's +request. In this way, I myself was fortunate enough to save a slave +from punishment. + + +The town is tolerably well lighted, and the lighting is continued to +a considerable distance, on all sides, beyond the town itself; this +measure was introduced on account of the great number of blacks. No +slave dare be seen in the streets later than 9 o'clock in the +evening, without having a pass from his master, certifying that he +is going on business for him. If a slave is ever caught without a +pass, he is immediately conveyed to the House of Correction, where +his head is shaved, and he himself obliged to remain until his +master buys his freedom for four or five milreis. (8s. 8d., or 10s. +10d.) In consequence of this regulation, the streets may be +traversed with safety at any hour of the night. + +One of the most disagreeable things in Rio Janeiro is the total +absence of sewers. In a heavy shower, every street becomes a +regular stream, which it is impossible to pass on foot; in order to +traverse them, it is requisite to be carried over by negroes. At +such times, all intercourse generally ceases, the streets are +deserted, parties are put off, and even the payment of bills of +exchange deferred. It is very seldom that people will hire a +carriage, for it is an absurd custom here, to pay as much for a +short drive, as if the carriage were required for the whole day; in +both cases the charge is six milreis (13s.) The carriages are half- +covered ones, with seats for two, and are drawn by a pair of mules, +on one of which the driver rides. Carriages and horses like the +English are very seldom to be met with. + +As regards the arts and sciences, I may mention the Academy of Fine +Arts, the Museum, Theatre, etc. In the Academy of Fine Arts is +something of everything, and not much of anything--a few figures and +busts, most in plaster, a few architectural plans and pencil +drawings, and a collection of very old oil paintings. It really +seemed to me as if some private picture gallery had been carefully +weeded of all the rubbish in it, which had then been put here out of +the way. Most of the oil paintings are so injured, that it is +scarcely possible to make out what they are intended to represent, +which, after all, is no great loss. The only thing respectable +about them is their venerable antiquity. A startling contrast is +produced by the copies of them made by the students. If the colours +in the old pictures are faded, in the modern ones they blaze with a +superfluity of vividness; red, yellow, green, etc., are there in all +their force; such a thing as mixing, softening, or blending them, +has evidently never been thought of. Even at the present moment, I +really am at a loss to determine whether the worthy students +intended to found a new school for colouring, or whether they merely +desired to make up in the copies for the damage time had done the +originals. + +There were as many blacks and mulattoes among the students as +whites, but the number of them altogether was inconsiderable. + +Music, especially singing and the pianoforte, is almost in a more +degraded position than painting. In every family the young ladies +play and sing; but of tact, style, arrangement, time, etc., the +innocent creatures have not the remotest idea, so that the easiest +and most taking melodies are often not recognisable. The sacred +music is a shade better, although even the arrangements of the +Imperial Chapel itself are susceptible of many improvements. The +military bands are certainly the best, and these are generally +composed of negroes and mulattoes. + +The exterior of the Opera-house does not promise anything very +beautiful or astonishing, and the stranger is, consequently, much +surprised to find, on entering, a large and magnificent house with a +deep stage. I should say it could contain more than 2,000 persons. +There are four tiers of spacious boxes rising one above the other, +the balustrades of which, formed of delicately-wrought iron trellis- +work, give the theatre a very tasty appearance. The pit is only for +men. I was present at a tolerably good representation, by an +Italian company, of the opera of Lucrezia Borgia; the scenery and +costumes are not amiss. + +If, however, I was agreeably surprised by my visit to the theatre, I +experienced quite a contrary feeling on going to the Museum. In a +land so richly and luxuriously endowed by Nature, I expected an +equally rich and magnificent museum, and found a number of very fine +rooms, it is true, which one day or other may be filled, but which +at present are empty. The collection of birds, which is the most +complete of all, is really fine; that of the minerals is very +defective; and those of the quadrupeds and insects poor in the +extreme. The objects which most excited my curiosity, were the +heads of four savages, in excellent preservation; two of them +belonged to the Malay, and two to the New Zealand tribes. The +latter especially I could not sufficiently contemplate, completely +covered as they were with tattooing of the most beautiful and +elegant design, and so well preserved that they seemed only to have +just ceased to live. + +During the period of my stay in Rio Janeiro, the rooms of the Museum +were undergoing repairs, and a new classification of the different +objects was also talked of. In consequence of this, the building +was not open to the public, and I have to thank the kindness of Herr +Riedl, the director, for allowing me to view it. He acted himself +as my guide; and, like me, regretted that in a country where the +formation of a rich museum would be so easy a task, so little had +been done. + +I likewise visited the studio of the sculptor Petrich, a native of +Dresden, who came over at the unsolicited command of the court, to +execute a statue of the emperor in Carrara marble. The emperor is +represented the size of life, in a standing position, and arrayed in +his imperial robes, with the ermine cloak thrown over his shoulder. +The head is strikingly like, and the whole figure worked out of the +stone with great artistic skill. I believe this statue was destined +for some public building. + + +I was fortunate enough during my stay in Rio Janeiro to witness +several different public festivals. + +The first was on the 21st of September, in the Church of St. Cruz, +on the occasion of celebrating the anniversary of the patron saint +of the country. Early in the morning several hundred soldiers were +drawn up before the church, with an excellent band, which played a +number of lively airs. Between ten and eleven, the military and +civil officers began gradually to arrive, the subordinate ones, as I +was told, coming first. On their entrance into the church, a +brownish-red silk cloak, which concealed the whole of the uniform, +was presented to each. Every time that another of a higher rank +appeared, all those already in the church rose from their seats, and +advancing towards the new comer as far as the church door, +accompanied him respectfully to his place. The emperor and his wife +arrived the last of all. The emperor is extremely young--not quite +one and twenty--but six feet tall, and very corpulent; his features +are those of the Hapsburg-Lothering family. The empress, a +Neapolitan princess, is small and slim, and forms a strange contrast +when standing beside the athletic figure of her husband. + +High mass, which was listened to with great reverence by every one, +began immediately after the entrance of the court, and after this +was concluded the imperial pair proceeded to their carriage, +presenting the crowd, who were waiting in the church, their hands to +kiss as they went along. This mark of distinction was bestowed not +only on the officers and officials of superior rank, but on every +one who pressed forward to obtain it. + +A second, and more brilliant festival occurred on the 19th of +October; it was the emperor's birth-day, and was celebrated by high +mass in the Imperial Chapel. This chapel is situated near the +Imperial Palace, to which it is connected by means of a covered +gallery. Besides the imperial family, all the general officers, as +well as the first officials of the state, were present at the mass, +but in full uniform, without the ugly silk cloaks. Surrounding all +was a row of Lancers (the body-guard). It is impossible for any but +an eye-witness to form an idea of the richness and profusion of the +gold embroidery, the splendid epaulets, and beautifully set orders, +etc., displayed on the occasion, and I hardly believe that anything +approaching it could be seen at any European court. + +During high mass, the foreign ambassadors, and the ladies and +gentlemen admitted to court, assembled in the palace, where, on the +emperor's return, every one was admitted to kiss his hand. + +The ambassadors, however, took no part in this proceeding, but +merely made a simple bow. + +This edifying ceremony could easily be seen from the square, as the +windows are very near the ground, and were also open. On such +occasions continual salutes are fired from the imperial ships, and +sometimes from others in the harbour. + +On the 2nd of November I saw a festival of another description-- +namely, a religious one. During this and the following days, old +and young proceed from one church to another, to pray for the souls +of the departed. + +They have a singular custom here of not burying all their dead in +the church-yard, many bodies being placed, at an additional expense, +in the church itself. For this purpose, there are, in every church, +particular chambers, with catacombs formed in the walls. The corpse +is strewed with lime, and laid in a catacomb of this description, +where, after a lapse of eight or ten months, the flesh is completely +eaten away. The bones are then taken out, cleaned by boiling, and +collected in an urn, on which is engraved the name, birth-day, etc., +of the deceased. These urns are afterwards set up in the passages +of the church, or sometimes even taken home by the relations. + +On All-souls' day, the walls of the chambers are hung with black +cloth, gold lace, and other ornaments, and the urns are richly +decorated with flowers and ribbons, and are lighted up by a great +number of tapers in silver candelabra and chandeliers, placed upon +high stands. From an early hour in the morning until noon, the +women and young girls begin praying very fervently for the souls of +their deceased relations, and the young gentlemen, who are quite as +curious as those in Europe, go to see the young girls pray. + +Females on this day are dressed in mourning, and often wear, to the +great disgust of the curious young gentlemen before mentioned, a +black veil over their head and face. No one, by the way, is allowed +to wear a bonnet at any festival of the church. + +But the most brilliant of the public festivals I saw here, was the +christening of the imperial princess, which took place on the 15th +of November, in the Imperial Chapel, which is connected with the +palace. + +Towards 3 o'clock in the afternoon a number of troops were drawn up +in the court-yard of the palace, the guards were distributed in the +corridors and the church, while the bands played a series of +pleasing melodies, frequently repeating the National Anthem, which +the late emperor, Peter I., is said to have composed. Equipage +after equipage began to roll up to the palace, and set down the most +brilliantly attired company of both sexes. + +At 4 o'clock the procession began to leave the palace. First, came +the court band, clothed in red velvet, and followed by three +heralds, in old Spanish costume, magnificently decorated hats and +feathers, and black velvet suits. Next walked the officers of the +law, and the authorities of every rank, chamberlains, court +physicians, senators, deputies, generals, and ecclesiastics, privy +councillors and secretaries; and, lastly, after this long line of +different personages, came the lord steward of the young princess, +whom he bore upon a magnificent white velvet cushion, edged with +gold lace. Immediately behind him followed the emperor, and the +little princess's nurse, surrounded by the principal nobles and +ladies of the court. On passing through the triumphal arch of the +gallery, and coming before the pallium of the church, the emperor +took his little daughter {23a} into his own arms, and presented her +to the people; an act which pleased me exceedingly, and which I +considered extremely appropriate. + +The empress, with her ladies, had likewise already arrived in the +church through the inner corridors, and the ceremony commenced +forthwith. The instant the princess was baptized, the event was +announced to the whole town by salvos of artillery, volleys of +musketry, and the discharge of rockets. {23b} At the conclusion of +the ceremony, which lasted above an hour, the procession returned in +the same order in which it had arrived, and the chapel was then +opened to the people. I was curious enough to enter with the rest, +and, I must own, I was quite surprised at the magnificence and taste +with which the building was decorated. The walls were covered with +silk and velvet hangings, ornamented with gold fringe, while rich +carpets were spread underfoot. On large tables, in the middle of +the nave, were displayed the most valuable specimens of the church +plate, gold and silver vases, immense dishes, plates, and goblets, +artistically engraved, and ornamented with embossed or open work; +while magnificent vessels of crystal, containing the most beautiful +flowers, and massive candelabra, with innumerable lights, sparkled +in the midst. On a separate table, near the high altar, were all +the costly vessels and furniture which had been employed at the +christening; and, in one of the side chapels, the princess's cradle, +covered with white satin, and ornamented with gold lace. In the +evening, the town, or rather, the public buildings, were +illuminated. The proprietors of private houses are not required to +light up; and they either avail themselves of their privilege, or at +most, hang out a few lanterns--a fact which will be readily +understood, when it is known that such illuminations last for six or +eight days. The public buildings, on the contrary, are covered from +top to bottom with countless lamps, which look exactly like a sea of +fire. + +The most original and really amusing fetes to celebrate the +christening of the princess, were those given on several evenings in +some of the barracks: even the emperor himself made his appearance +there for a few moments on different occasions. They were also the +only fetes I saw here which were not mixed up with religious +solemnities. The sole actors in them were the soldiers themselves, +of whom the handsomest and most active had previously been selected, +and exercised in the various evolutions and dances. The most +brilliant of these fetes took place in the barracks of the Rua +Barbone. A semicircular and very tasty gallery was erected in the +spacious court-yard, and in the middle of the gallery were busts of +the imperial couple. This gallery was set apart for the ladies +invited, who made their appearance as if dressed for the most +splendid ball: at the entrance of the court-yard they were received +by the officers, and conducted to their places. Before the gallery +stood the stage, and at each side of the latter were ranged rows of +seats for the less fashionable females; beyond these seats was +standing-room for the men. + +At eight o'clock the band commenced playing, and shortly afterwards +the representation began. The soldiers appeared, dressed in various +costumes, as Highlanders, Poles, Spaniards, etc.; nor was there any +scarcity of danseuses, who, of course, were likewise private +soldiers. What pleased me most was, that both the dress and +behaviour of the military young ladies were highly becoming. I had +expected at least some little exaggeration, or at best no very +elegant spectacle; and was therefore greatly astonished, not only +with the correctness of the dances and evolutions, but also with the +perfect propriety with which the whole affair was conducted. + +The last fete that I saw took place on the 2nd of December, in +celebration of the emperor's birth-day. After high mass, the +different dignitaries again waited on the emperor, to offer their +congratulations, and were admitted to the honour of kissing his +hand, etc. The imperial couple then placed themselves at a window +of the palace, while the troops defiled before them, with their +bands playing the most lively airs. It would be difficult to find +better dressed soldiers than those here: every private might easily +be mistaken for a lieutenant, or at least a non-commissioned +officer; but unluckily, their bearing, size, and colour, are greatly +out of keeping with the splendour of their uniform--a mere boy of +fourteen standing next to a full-grown, well-made man, a white +coming after a black, and so on. + +The men are pressed into the service; the time of serving is from +four to six years. + + +I had heard and read a great deal in Europe of the natural +magnificence and luxury of the Brazils--of the ever clear and +smiling sky, and the extraordinary charm of the continual spring; +but though it is true that the vegetation is perhaps richer, and the +fruitfulness of the soil more luxuriant and vigorous than in any +other part of the world, and that every one who desires to see the +working of nature in its greatest force and incessant activity, must +come to Brazil; still it must not be thought that all is good and +beautiful, and that there is nothing which will not weaken the +magical effect of the first impression. + +Although every one begins by praising the continual verdure and the +uninterrupted splendour of spring met with in this country, he is, +in the end, but too willing to allow, that even this, in time, loses +its charm. A little winter would be preferable, as the reawakening +of nature, the resuscitation of the slumbering plants, the return of +the sweet perfume of spring, enchants us all the more, simply +because during a short period we have been deprived of it. + +I found the climate and the air exceedingly oppressive; and the +heat, although at that period hardly above 86 degrees in the shade, +very weakening. During the warm months, which last from the end of +December to May, the heat rises in the shade to 99 degrees, and in +the sun to above 122 degrees. In Egypt, I bore a greater amount of +heat with far greater ease; a circumstance which may perhaps be +accounted for by the fact, that the climate is there drier, while +here there is always an immense degree of moisture. Fogs and mists +are very common; the hills and eminences, nay, even whole tracts of +country, are often enveloped in impenetrable gloom, and the whole +atmosphere loaded with damp vapours. + +In the month of November I was seriously indisposed for a +considerable period. I suffered, especially in the town, from an +oppressive feeling of fatigue and weakness; and to the kindness and +friendship of Herr Geiger, the Secretary to the Austrian Consulate, +and his wife, who took me with them into the country, and showed me +the greatest attention, do I alone owe my recovery. I ascribed my +illness altogether to the unusual dampness of the atmosphere. + +The most agreeable season is said to be the winter (from June to +October); that, with a temperature of from 63 to 72 degrees, is +mostly dry and clear. This period is generally selected by the +inhabitants for travelling. During the summer, violent thunder- +storms are of frequent occurrence: I myself only saw three during +my stay in the Brazils, all of which were over in an hour and a +half. The lightning was almost incessant, and spread like a sheet +of fire over the greater portion of the horizon; the thunder, on the +other hand, was inconsiderable. + +Clear, cloudless days (from 16th September to 9th December) were so +rare, that I really could have counted them; and I am at a loss to +understand how so many travellers have spoken of the ever beautiful, +smiling, and blue sky of the Brazils. This must be true of some +other portion of the year. + +A fine evening and long twilight is another source of enjoyment +which may be said to be unknown: at sunset every one hastens home, +as it is immediately followed by darkness and damp. + +In the height of summer the sun sets at about a quarter past 6, and +all the rest of the year at 6 o'clock; twenty or thirty minutes +afterwards, night sets in. + +The mosquitoes, ants, baraten, and sand-fleas are another source of +annoyance; many a night have I been obliged to sit up, tormented and +tortured by the bite of these insects. It is hardly possible to +protect provisions from the attacks of the baraten and ants. The +latter, in fact, often appear in long trains of immeasureable +length, pursuing their course over every obstacle which stands in +the way. During my stay in the country at Herr Geiger's, I beheld a +swarm of this description traverse a portion of the house. It was +really most interesting to see what a regular line they formed; +nothing could make them deviate from the direction they had first +determined on. Madame Geiger told me that she was one night awoke +by a horrible itching; she sprang immediately out of bed, and beheld +a swarm of ants of the above description pass over her bed. There +is no remedy for this; the end of the procession, which often lasts +four or six hours, must be waited for with patience. Provisions are +to some extent protected from them, by placing the legs of the +tables and presses in plates filled with water. Clothes and linen +are laid in tightly-fitting tin canisters, to protect them, not only +from the ants, but also from the baraten and the damp. + +The worst plague of all, however, are the sand-fleas, which attach +themselves to one's toes, underneath the nails, or sometimes to the +soles of the feet. The moment a person feels an itching in these +parts he must immediately look at the place; if he sees a small +black point surrounded by a small white ring, the former is the +flea, and the latter the eggs which it has laid in the flesh. The +first thing done is to loosen the skin all round as far as the white +ring is visible; the whole deposit is then extracted, and a little +snuff strewed in the empty space. The best plan is to call in the +first black you may happen to see, as they all perform this +operation very skilfully. + +As regards the natural products of the Brazils, a great many of the +most necessary articles are wanting in the list. It is true that +there are sugar and coffee, but no corn, no potatoes, and none of +our delicious varieties of fruit. The flour of manioc, which is +mixed up with the other materials of which the dishes are composed, +supplies the place of bread, but is far from being so nutritious and +strengthening, while the different kinds of sweet-tasting roots are +certainly not to be compared to our potatoes. The only fruit, which +are really excellent, are the oranges, bananas and mangoes. Their +celebrated pine-apples are neither very fragrant nor remarkably +sweet; I certainly have eaten much finer flavoured ones that had +been grown in a European hot-house. The other kinds of fruit are +not worth mentioning. Lastly, with the two very necessary articles +of consumption, milk and meat, the former is very watery, and the +latter very dry. + +On instituting a comparison between the Brazils and Europe, both +with respect to the impression produced by the whole, as also to the +separate advantages and disadvantages of each, we shall, perhaps, at +first find the scale incline towards the former country, but only to +turn ultimately with greater certainty in favour of the latter. + +The Brazils is, perhaps, the most interesting country in the world +for travellers; but for a place of permanent residence I should most +decidedly prefer Europe. + + +I saw too little of the manners and customs of the country to be +qualified to pronounce judgment upon them, and I shall therefore, on +this head, confine myself to a few remarks. The manners seem, on +the whole, to differ but little from those of Europe. The present +possessors of the country, as is well known, derive their descent +from Portugal, and the Brazilians might very aptly be termed +"Europeans translated into Americans;" and it is very natural, that +in this "translation" many peculiarities have been lost, while +others have stood forth in greater relief. The strongest feature in +the character of the European-American is the greed for gold; this +often becomes a passion, and transforms the most faint-hearted white +into a hero, for it certainly requires the courage of one to live +alone, as planter, on a plantation with perhaps some hundred slaves, +far removed from all assistance, and with the prospect of being +irrevocably lost in the event of any revolt. + +This grasping feeling is not confined to the men alone; it is found +among the women as well, and is greatly encouraged by a common +custom here, agreeably to which, a husband never assigns his wife so +much for pin-money, but, according to his means, makes her a present +of one or more male or female slaves, whom she can dispose of as she +chooses. She generally has them taught how to cook, sew, embroider, +or even instructed in some trade, and then lets them out, by the +day, week, or month, {27} to people who possess no slaves of their +own; or she lets them take in washing at home, or employs them in +the manufacture of various ornamental objects, fine pastry, etc, +which she sends them out to sell. The money for these things +belongs to her, and is generally spent in dress and amusement. + +In the case of tradesmen, and professional men, the wife is always +paid for whatever assistance she may lend her husband in his +business. + +Morality, unfortunately, is not very general in the Brazils; one +cause of this may be traced to the manner in which the children are +first brought up. They are confided entirely to the care of blacks. +Negresses suckle them when they are infants, their nurses are +negresses, their attendants are negresses--and I have often seen +girls of eight or ten years of age taken to school, or any other +place, by young negroes. The sensuality of the blacks is too well +known for us to be surprised, with such a state of things, at the +general and early demoralization. In no other place did I ever +behold so many children with such pale and worn faces as in the +streets of Rio Janeiro. The second cause of immorality here is, +without doubt, the want of religion. The Brazils are thoroughly +Catholic--perhaps there are no countries save Spain and Italy, that +can be compared to them. Almost every day there is some procession, +service, or church-festival; but these are attended merely for the +sake of amusement, while the true religious feeling is entirely +wanting. + +We may also ascribe to this deep demoralization and want of religion +the frequent occurrence of murders, committed not for the sake of +robbery or theft, but from motives of revenge and hatred. The +murderer either commits the deed himself, or has it perpetrated by +one of his slaves, who is ready to lend himself for the purpose, in +consideration of a mere trifle. The discovery of the crime need +cause the assassin no anxiety, provided he is rich; for in this +country everything, I was assured, can be arranged or achieved with +money. I saw several men in Rio Janeiro who had, according to +report, committed either themselves, or by the means of others, not +one, but several murders, and yet they not only enjoyed perfect +liberty, but were received in every society. + +In conclusion, I beg leave to address a few words to those of my +countrymen who think of leaving their native land, to seek their +fortune on the distant coast of Brazil--a few words which I could +desire to see as far spread and as well known as possible. + +There are people in Europe not a whit better than the African slave- +dealers, and such people are those who delude poor wretches with +exaggerated accounts of the richness of America and her beautiful +territories, of the over-abundance of the products of the soil, and +the lack of hands to take advantage of them. These people, however, +care little about the poor dupes; their object is to freight the +vessels belonging to them, and to effect this they take from their +deluded victim the last penny he possesses. + +During my stay here, several vessels arrived with unfortunate +emigrants of this description; the government had not sent for them, +and therefore would afford them no relief; money they had none, and, +consequently, could not purchase land, neither could they find +employment in working on the plantations, as no one will engage +Europeans for this purpose, because, being unused to the warm +climate, they would soon succumb beneath the work. The unhappy +wretches had thus no resource left; they were obliged to beg about +the town, and, in the end, were fain to content themselves with the +most miserable occupations. A different fate awaits those who are +sent for by the Brazilian government to cultivate the land or +colonize the country: these persons receive a piece of uncleared +ground, with provisions and other help; but if they come over +without any money at all, even their lot is no enviable one. Want, +hunger, and sickness destroy most of them, and but a very small +number succeed, by unceasing activity and an iron constitution, in +gaining a better means of livelihood than what they left behind them +in their native land. Those only who exercise some trade find +speedy employment and an easy competency; but even this will, in all +probability, soon be otherwise, for great numbers are pouring in +ever year, and latterly the negroes themselves have been, and are +still being, more frequently taught every kind of trade. + +Let every one, therefore, obtain trustworthy information before +leaving his native land; let him weigh calmly and deliberately the +step he is about to take, and not allow himself to be carried away +by deceptive hopes. The poor creature's misery on being undeceived +is so much the more dreadful, because he does not learn the truth +until it is too late--until he has already fallen a victim to +poverty and want. + + + +CHAPTER III. EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF RIO JANEIRO. + + + +THE WATERFALLS NEAR TESCHUKA--BOA VISTA--THE BOTANICAL GARDENS AND +THEIR ENVIRONS--THE CORCOVADO MOUNTAINS, 2,253 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL +OF THE SEA--PALACES OF THE IMPERIAL FAMILY--THE NEWLY-FOUNDED GERMAN +COLONY OF PETROPOLIS--ATTEMPT AT MURDER, BY A MARROON NEGRO. + +An excursion to the waterfalls near Teschuka, to Boa Vista, and the +Botanical Gardens, is one of the most interesting near the city; but +it requires two days, as it takes a long time to see the Botanical +Gardens alone. + +Count Berchthold and myself proceeded as far as Andaracky (four +miles) in an omnibus, and then continued our journey on foot, +between patches of wood and low hills. Elegant country houses are +situated upon the eminences and along the high road, at short +distances from each other. + +When we had walked four miles, a path to the right conducted us to a +small waterfall, neither very high nor well supplied, but still the +most considerable one in the vicinity of Rio Janeiro. We then +returned to the high road, and in half an hour reached a little +elevated plain, whence the eye ranged over a valley of the most +remarkable description, one portion of it being in a state of wild +chaotic confusion, and the other resembling a blooming garden. In +the former were strewed masses of broken granite, from which, in +some places, larger blocks reared their heads, like so many +Collossi; while in others large fragments of rocks lay towering one +above the other; in the second portion stood the finest fruit trees +in the midst of luxuriant pastures. This romantic valley is +enclosed on three sides by noble mountains, the fourth being open, +and disclosing a full view of the sea. + +In this valley we found a small venda, where we recruited ourselves +with bread and wine, and then continued our excursion to the so- +called "Great Waterfall," with which we were less astonished than we +had been with the smaller one. A very shallow sheet of water flowed +down over a broad but nowise precipitous ledge of rock into the +valley beneath. + +After making our way through the valley, we came to the Porto +Massalu, where a number of trunks of trees, hollowed out and lying +before the few huts situated in the bay, apprized us that the +inhabitants were fishermen. We hired one of these beautiful +conveyances to carry us across the little bay. The passage did not +take more than a quarter of an hour at the most, and for this, as +strangers, we were compelled to pay two thousand reis (4s.). + +We had now at one moment to wade through plains of sand, and the +next to clamber over the rocks by wretched paths. In this laborious +fashion we proceeded for at least twelve miles, until we reached the +summit of a mountain, which rises like the party-wall of two mighty +valleys. This peak is justly called the Boa Vista. The view +extends over both valleys, with the mountain ranges and rows of +hills which intersect them, and embraces, among other high +mountains, the Corcovado and the "Two Brothers;" and, in the +distance, the capital, with the surrounding country-houses and +villages, the various bays and the open sea. + +Unwillingly did we leave this beautiful position; but being +unacquainted with the distance we should have to go before reaching +some hospitable roof, we were obliged to hasten on; besides which +negroes are the only persons met with on these lonely roads, and a +rencontre with any of them by night is a thing not at all to be +desired. We descended, therefore, into the valley, and resolved to +sleep at the first inn we came to. + +More fortunate than most people in such cases, we not only found an +excellent hotel with clean rooms and good furniture, but fell in +with company which amused us in the highest degree. It consisted of +a mulatto family, and attracted all my attention. The wife, a +tolerably stout beauty of about thirty, was dressed out in a fashion +which, in my own country, no one, save a lady of an exceedingly +vulgar taste would ever think of adopting--all the valuables she +possessed in the world, she had got about her. Wherever it was +possible to stick anything of gold or silver, there it was sure to +be. A gown of heavy silk and a real cashmere enveloped her dark +brown body, and a charming little white silk bonnet looked very +comical placed upon her great heavy head. The husband and five +children were worthy of their respective wife and mother; and, in +fact, this excess of dress extended even to the nurse, a real +unadulterated negress, who was also overloaded with ornaments. On +one arm she had five and on the other six bracelets of stones, +pearls, and coral, but which, as far as I could judge, did not +strike me as being particularly genuine. + +When the family rose to depart, two landaus, each with four horses, +drove up to the door, and man and wife, children and nurse, all +stepped in with the same majestic gravity. + +As I was still looking after the carriages, which were rolling +rapidly towards the town, I saw some one on horseback nodding to me: +it was my friend, Herr Geiger. On hearing that we intended to +remain for the night where we were, he persuaded us to accompany him +to the estate of his father-in-law, which was situated close at +hand. In the latter gentleman, we made the acquaintance of a most +worthy and cheerful old man of seventy years of age, who, at that +period, was Directing Architect and Superintendant of the Fine Arts +under Government. We admired his beautiful garden and charming +residence, built, with great good taste, in the Italian style. + +Early on the following morning, I accompanied Count Berchthold to +the botanical gardens. Our curiosity to visit these gardens was +very great: we hoped to see there magnificent specimens of trees +and flowers from all parts of the world--but we were rather +disappointed. The gardens have been founded too recently, and none +of the large trees have yet attained their full growth; there is no +very great selection of flowers or plants; and to the few that are +there, not even tickets are affixed, to acquaint the visitor with +their names. The most interesting objects for us, were the monkey's +bread-tree, with its gourds weighing ten or twenty-five pounds, and +containing a number of kernels, which are eaten, not only by +monkeys, but also by men--the clove, camphor, and cocoa-tree, the +cinnamon and tea bush, etc. We also saw a very peculiar kind of +palm-tree: the lower portion of the trunk, to the height of two or +three feet, was brown and smooth, and shaped like a large tub or +vat; the stems that sprang from this were light green, and like the +lower part, very smooth, and at the same time shining, as if +varnished; they were not very high, and the crest of leaves, as is +the case with other palms, only unfolded itself at the top of the +tree. Unfortunately, we were unable to learn the names of this kind +of palm; and in the whole course of my voyage, I never met with +another specimen. + +We did not leave the gardens before noon: we then proceeded on foot +four miles as far as Batafogo, and thence reached the city by +omnibus. + +Herr Geiger had invited Count Berchtholdt, Herr Rister, (a native of +Vienna), and myself to an excursion to the Corcovado mountains; and +accordingly, on the 1st November, at a time when we are often +visited by storms and snow, but when the sun is here in his full +force, and the sky without a cloud, at an early hour in the morning +did we commence our pilgrimage. + +The splendid aqueduct was our guide as far as the springs from which +it derives the water, which point we reached in an hour and a half, +having been so effectually protected by the deep shade of lovely +woods, that even the intense heat of the sun, which reached during +the day more than 117 degrees, (in the sun), scarcely annoyed us. + +We stopped at the springs; and, on a sign from Herr Geiger, an +athletic negro made his appearance, loaded with a large hamper of +provisions--everything was soon prepared--a white cloth was spread +out, and the eatables and drinkables placed upon it. Our meal was +seasoned with jokes and good humour; and when we started afresh on +our journey, we felt revived both in body and mind. + +The last cone of the mountain gave us some trouble: the route was +very precipitous, and lay over bare, hot masses of rock. But when +we did reach the top, we were more than repaid by seeing spread +before us such a panorama, as most assuredly is very seldom to be +met with in the world. All that I had remarked on my entrance into +the port, lay there before me, only more clearly defined and more +extended, with innumerable additional objects. We could see the +whole town, all the lower hills, which half hid it from my view on +my arrival, the large bay, reaching as far as the Organ mountain; +and, on the other side, the romantic valley, containing the +botanical gardens, and a number of beautiful country-houses. + +I recommend every one who comes to Rio Janeiro, although it be only +for a few days, to make this excursion, since from this spot he can, +with one glance, perceive all the treasures which nature, with so +truly liberal a hand, has lavished upon the environs of this city. +He will here see virgin forests, which, if not quite as thick and +beautiful as those farther inland, are still remarkable for their +luxuriant vegetation. Mimosae and Aarren baume of a gigantic size, +palms, wild coffee-trees, orchidaen, parasites and creepers, +blossoms and flowers, without end; birds of the most brilliant +plumage, immense butterflies, and sparkling insects, flying in +swarms from blossom to blossom, from branch to branch. A most +wonderful effect also is produced by the millions of fire-flies, +which find their way into the very tops of the trees, and sparkle +between the foliage like so many brightly twinkling stars. + +I had been informed that the ascent of this mountain was attended +with great difficulty. I did not, however, find this to be the +case, since the summit may be reached with the greatest ease in +three hours and three quarters, while three parts of the way can +also be performed on horseback. + +The regular residence of the imperial family may be said to be the +Palace of Christovao, about half an hour's walk from the town. It +is there that the emperor spends most of the year, and where also +all political councils are held, and state business transacted. + +The palace is small, and is distinguished neither for taste nor +architectural beauty: its sole charm is its situation. It is +placed upon a hill, and commands a view of the Organ mountain, and +one of the bays. The palace garden itself is small, and is laid out +in terraces right down into the valley below: a larger garden, that +serves as a nursery for plants and trees, joins it. Both these +gardens are highly interesting for Europeans, since they contain a +great number of plants, which either do not exist at all in Europe, +or are only known from dwarf specimens in hot-houses. Herr Riedl, +who has the management of both gardens, was kind enough to conduct +us over them himself, and to draw my attention more especially to +the tea and bamboo plantations. + +Ponte de Cascher(four miles from the town) is another imperial +garden. There are three mango trees here, which are very +remarkable, from their age and size. Their branches describe a +circle of more than eighty feet in circumference, but they no longer +bear fruit. Among the most agreeable walks in the immediate +vicinity of the town, I may mention the Telegraph mountain, the +public garden (Jardin publico), the Praya do Flamingo, and the +Cloisters of St. Gloria and St. Theresia, etc. + +I had heard so much in Rio Janeiro of the rapid rise of Petropolis, +a colony founded by Germans in the neighbourhood of Rio Janeiro, of +the beauty of the country where it was situated, and of the virgin +forests through which a part of the road ran--that I could not +resist the temptation of making an excursion thither. My travelling +companion, Count Berchthold, accompanied me; and, on the 26th +September, we took two places on board one of the numerous barks +which sail regularly every day for the Porto d'Estrella, (a distance +of twenty or twenty-two nautical miles), from which place the +journey is continued by land. We sailed through a bay remarkable +for its extremely picturesque views, and which often reminded me +vividly of the peculiar character of the lakes in Sweden. It is +surrounded by ranges of lovely hills, and is dotted over with small +islands, both separate and in groups, some of which are so +completely overgrown with palms, as well as other trees and shrubs, +that it seems impossible to land upon them, while others either rear +their solitary heads like huge rocks from the waves, or are loosely +piled one upon the other. The round form of many of the latter is +especially remarkable: they almost seem to have been cut out with a +chisel. + +Our bark was manned by four negroes and a white skipper. At first +we ran before the wind with full sails, and the crew took advantage +of this favourable opportunity to make a meal, consisting of a +considerable quantity of flour of manioc, boiled fish, roasted mil, +(Turkish corn), oranges, cocoa-nuts, and other nuts of a smaller +description; indeed, there was even white bread, which for blacks is +a luxury; and I was greatly delighted to see them so well taken care +of. In two hours the wind left us, and the crew were obliged to +take to the oars, the manner of using which struck me as very +fatiguing. At each dip of the oar into the water, the rower mounts +upon a bench before him, and then, during the stroke, throws himself +off again with his full force. In two hours more, we left the sea, +and taking a left-hand direction, entered the river Geromerim, at +the mouth of which is an inn, where we stopped half an hour, and +where I saw a remarkable kind of lighthouse, consisting of a lantern +affixed to a rock. The beauty of the country is now at an end--that +is, in the eyes of the vulgar: a botanist would, at this point, +find it more than usually wonderful and magnificent; for the most +beautiful aquatic plants, especially the Nymphia, the Pontedera, and +the Cyprian grass are spread out, both in the water and all round +it. The two former twine themselves to the very top of the nearest +sapling, and the Cyprian grass attains a height of from six to eight +feet. The banks of the river are flat, and fringed with underwood +and young trees; the background is formed by ranges of hills. The +little houses, which are visible now and then, are built of stone, +and covered with tiles, yet, nevertheless, they present a tolerably +poverty-stricken appearance. + +After sailing up the river for seven hours, we reached, without +accident, Porto d'Estrella, a place of some importance, since it is +the emporium for all the merchandise which is sent from the +interior, and then conveyed by water to the capital. There are two +good inns; and, besides these, a large building (similar to a +Turkish Khan) and an immense tiled roof, supported on strong stone +pillars. The first was appropriated to the merchandise, and the +second to the donkey drivers, who had arranged themselves very +comfortably underneath it, and were preparing their evening meal +over various fires that were blazing away very cheerfully. Although +fully admitting the charms of such quarters for the night, we +preferred retiring to the Star Inn, where clean rooms and beds, and +skilfully spiced dishes, possessed more attraction for us. + +27th September. From Porto d'Estrella to Petropolis, the distance +is seven leagues. This portion of the journey is generally +performed upon mules, the charge for which is four milreis (8s. 8d.) +each, but as we had been told in Rio Janeiro that the road afforded +a beautiful walk, parts of it traversing splendid woods, and that it +was besides much frequented, and perfectly safe, being the great +means of communication with Minas Gueras, we determined to go on +foot, and that the more willingly, as the Count wished to botanize, +and I to collect insects. The first eight miles lay through a broad +valley, covered with thick brambles and young trees, and surrounded +with lofty mountains. The wild pine-apples at the side of the road +presented a most beautiful appearance; they were not quite ripe, and +were tinged with the most delicate red. Unfortunately, they are far +from being as agreeable to the taste as they are to the sight, and +consequently are very seldom gathered. I was greatly amused with +the humming-birds, of which I saw a considerable number of the +smallest species. Nothing can be more graceful and delicate than +these little creatures. They obtain their food from the calyx of +the flowers, round which they flutter like butterflies, and indeed +are very often mistaken for them in their rapid flight. It is very +seldom that they are seen on a branch or twig in a state of repose. +After passing through the valley, we reached the Serra, as the +Brazilians term the summit of each mountain that they cross; the +present one was 3,000 feet high. A broad paved road, traversing +virgin forests, runs up the side of the mountain. + +I had always imagined that in virgin forests the trees had +uncommonly thick and lofty trunks; I found that this was not here +the case. The vegetation is probably too luxuriant, and the larger +trunks are suffocated and rot beneath the masses of smaller trees, +bushes, creepers, and parasites. The two latter description of +plants are so abundant, and cover so completely the trees, that it +is often impossible to see even the leaves, much less the stems and +branches. Herr Schleierer, a botanist, assured us that he once +found upon one tree six and thirty different kinds of creepers and +parasites. + +We gathered a rich harvest of flowers, plants, and insects, and +loitered along, enchanted with the magnificent woods and not less +beautiful views, which stretched over hill and dale, towards the sea +and its bays, and even as far as the capital itself. + +Frequent truppas, {34a} driven by negroes, as well as the number of +pedestrians we met, eased our minds of every fear, and prevented us +from regarding it as at all remarkable that we were being +continually followed by a negro. As, however, we arrived at a +somewhat lonely spot, he sprang suddenly forward, holding in one +hand a long knife and in the other a lasso, {34b} rushed upon us, +and gave us to understand, more by gestures than words, that he +intended to murder, and then drag us into the forest. + +We had no arms, as we had been told that the road was perfectly +safe, and the only weapons of defence we possessed were our +parasols, if I except a clasp knife, which I instantly drew out of +my pocket and opened, fully determined to sell my life as dearly as +possible. We parried our adversary's blows as long as we could with +our parasols, but these lasted but a short time; besides, he caught +hold of mine, which, as we were struggling for it, broke short off, +leaving only a piece of the handle in my hand. In the struggle, +however, he dropped his knife, which rolled a few steps from him; I +instantly made a dash, and thought I had got it, when he, more quick +than I, thrust me away with his feet and hands, and once more +obtained possession of it. He waved it furiously over my head, and +dealt me two wounds, a thrust and a deep gash, both in the upper +part of the left arm; I thought I was lost, and despair alone gave +me the courage to use my own knife. I made a thrust at his breast; +this he warded off, and I only succeeded in wounding him severely in +the hand. The Count sprang forward, and seized the fellow from +behind, and thus afforded me an opportunity of raising myself from +the ground. The whole affair had not taken more than a few seconds. +The negro's fury was now roused to its highest pitch by the wounds +he had received: he gnashed his teeth at us like a wild beast, and +flourished his knife with frightful rapidity. The Count, in his +turn, had received a cut right across the hand, and we had been +irrevocably lost, had not Providence sent us assistance. We heard +the tramp of horses' hoofs upon the road, upon which the negro +instantly left us and sprang into the wood. Immediately afterwards +two horsemen turned a corner of the road, and we hurried towards +them; our wounds, which were bleeding freely, and the way in which +our parasols were hacked, soon made them understand the state of +affairs. They asked us which direction the fugitive had taken, and, +springing from their horses, hurried after him; their efforts, +however, would have been fruitless, if two negroes, who were coming +from the opposite side, had not helped them. As it was, the fellow +was soon captured. He was pinioned, and, as he would not walk, +severely beaten, most of the blows being dealt upon the head, so +that I feared the poor wretch's skull would be broken. In spite of +this he never moved a muscle, and lay, as if insensible to feeling, +upon the ground. The two other negroes were obliged to seize hold +of him, when he endeavoured to bite every one within his reach, like +a wild beast, and carry him to the nearest house. Our preservers, +as well as the Count and myself, accompanied them. We then had our +wounds dressed, and afterwards continued our journey; not, it is +true, entirely devoid of fear, especially when we met one or more +negroes but without any further mishap, and with a continually +increasing admiration of the beautiful scenery. + +The colony of Petropolis is situated in the midst of a virgin +forest, at an elevation of 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, +and, at the time of our visit, it had been founded about fourteen +months, with the especial purpose of furnishing the capital with +certain kinds of fruit and vegetables, which, in tropical climates, +will thrive only in very high situations. A small row of houses +already formed a street, and on a large space that had been cleared +away stood the wooden carcase of a larger building--the Imperial +Villa, which, however, would have some difficulty in presenting +anything like an imperial appearance, on account of the low doors +that contrasted strangely with the broad, lofty windows. The town +is to be built around the villa, though several detached houses are +situated at some distance away in the woods. One portion of the +colonists, such as mechanics, shop-keepers, etc., had been presented +with small plots of ground for building upon, near the villa; the +cultivators of the soil had received larger patches, although not +more than two or three yokes. What misery must not these poor +people have suffered in their native country to have sought another +hemisphere for the sake of a few yokes of land! + +We here found the good old woman who had been our fellow passenger +from Germany to Rio Janeiro, in company with her son. Her joy at +being once more able to share in the toils and labours of her +favourite had, in this short space of time, made her several years +younger. Her son acted as our guide, and conducted us over the +infant colony, which is situated in broad ravines; the surrounding +hills are so steep, that when they are cleared of timber and +converted into gardens, the soft earth is easily washed away by +heavy showers. + +At a distance of four miles from the colony, a waterfall foams down +a chasm which it has worn away for itself. It is more remarkable +for its valley-like enclosure of noble mountains, and the solemn +gloom of the surrounding woods, than for its height or body of +water. + +29th September. In spite of the danger we had incurred in coming, +we returned to Porto d'Estrella on foot, went on board a bark, +sailed all night, and arrived safely in Rio Janeiro the next +morning. Every one, both in Petropolis and the capital, was so +astonished at the manner in which our lives had been attempted, that +if we had not been able to show our wounds we should never have been +believed. The fellow was at first thought to have been drunk or +insane, and it was not till later that we learned the real motives +of his conduct. He had some time previously been punished by his +master for an offence, and on meeting us in the wood, he no doubt +thought that it was a good opportunity of satisfying, with impunity, +his hatred against the whites. + + + +CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE BRAZILS. + + + +THE TOWNS OF MORROQUEIMADO (NOVO FRIBURGO) AND ALDEA DO PEDRO-- +PLANTATIONS OF THE EUROPEANS--BURNING FORESTS--VIRGIN FORESTS--LAST +SETTLEMENT OF THE WHITES--VISIT TO THE INDIANS, ALSO CALLED PURIS OR +RABOCLES--RETURN TO RIO JANEIRO. + +This second journey I also made in company of Count Berchthold, +after having resolved on penetrating into the interior of the +country, and paying a visit to the primitive inhabitants of the +Brazils. + +2nd October. We left Rio Janeiro in the morning, and proceeded in a +steamer as far as the port of Sampajo, a distance of twenty-eight +miles. This port lies at the mouth of the river Maccacu, but +consists of only one inn and two or three small houses. We here +hired mules to take us to the town of Morroqueimado, eighty miles +off. + +I may take this opportunity of remarking that it is the custom in +the Brazils to hire the mules without muleteers--a great mark of +confidence on the part of the owners towards travellers. Arrived at +their destination the animals are delivered up at a certain place +fixed on by the proprietor. We preferred, however, to take a +muleteer with us, as we were not acquainted with the road, a piece +of precaution we regretted the less, on finding the way frequently +obstructed with wooden gates, which had always to be opened and shut +again. + +The price for hiring a mule was twelve milreis (1 pounds 6s.). + +As we arrived at Porto Sampajo by 2 o'clock, we resolved on going on +as far as Ponte do Pinheiro, a distance of sixteen miles. The road +lay mostly through valleys covered with large bushes and surrounded +by low rocks. The country wore a general aspect of wildness, and +only here and there were a few scanty pasture-grounds and poverty- +stricken huts to be seen. + +The little town of Ponte de Cairas, which we passed, consists of a +few shops and vendas, a number of smaller houses, an inconsiderable +church, and an apothecary's; the principal square looked like a +meadow. Ponte do Pinheiro is rather larger. We experienced here a +very good reception, and had an excellent supper, consisting of +fowls stewed in rice, flour of manioc, and Portuguese wine; we had +also good beds and breakfasts; the whole cost us, however, four +milreis (8s. 8d.). + +3rd October. We did not set off till 7 o'clock: here, as +everywhere else in the country, there is no getting away early in +the morning. + +The scenery was of the same character as that passed the day before, +except that we were approaching the more lofty mountains. The road +was tolerably good, but the bridges across the streams and sloughs +execrable; we esteemed ourselves fortunate whenever we passed one +without being compelled to stop. After a ride of three hours (nine +miles), we reached the great Sugar-Fazenda {38} de Collegio, which +in its arrangements is exactly like a large country seat. To the +spacious residence is attached a chapel, with the offices lying all +around; the whole is enclosed by a high wall. + +Far and wide stretched the fields and low eminences, covered with +sugar canes: unfortunately, we could not see the mode of preparing +the sugar, as the canes were not yet ripe. + +A planter's fortune in the Brazils is calculated by the number of +his slaves. There were eight hundred of them on the plantation we +were viewing--a large property, since each male slave costs from six +to seven hundred milreis (60 to 70 pounds). + +Not far from this fazenda, to the right of the high road, lies +another very considerable one, called Papagais; besides these we saw +several smaller plantations, which lent a little animation to the +uniformity of the scene. + +St. Anna (sixteen miles distance) is a small place, consisting of +only a few poor houses, a little church, and an apothecary's; the +last is a necessary appendage to every Brazilian village, even +though it only contains twelve or fifteen huts. We here made a +repast of eggs with a bottle of wine, and gave our mules a feed of +mil, for which a cheating landlord, Herr Gebhart, charged us three +milreis (6s. 6d.) + +Today we did not proceed further than Mendoza (twelve miles), a +still more insignificant place than St. Anna. A small shop and a +venda were the only houses at the road-side, though in the +background we perceived a manioc-fazenda, to which we paid a visit. +The proprietor was kind enough first to offer us some strong coffee, +without milk (a customary mark of attention in the Brazils), and +then to conduct us over his plantation. + +The manioc plant shoots out stalks from four to six feet in height, +with a number of large leaves at their upper extremities. The +valuable portion of the plant is its bulbous root, which often +weighs two or three pounds, and supplies the place of corn all +through the Brazils. It is washed, peeled, and held against the +rough edge of a millstone, turned by a negro, until it is completely +ground away. The whole mass is then gathered into a basket, +plentifully steeped in water, and is afterwards pressed quite dry by +means of a press. Lastly it is scattered upon large iron plates, +and slowly dried by a gentle fire kept up beneath. It now resembles +a very coarse kind of flour; and is eaten in two ways--wet and dry. +In the first case, it is mixed with hot water until it forms a kind +of porridge; in the second, it is handed round, under the form of +coarse flour, in little baskets, and every one at table takes as +much as he chooses, and sprinkles it over his plate. + +4th October. The mountain ranges continue drawing nearer and nearer +to each other, and the woods become thicker and more luxuriant. The +various creeping plants are indescribably beautiful: not only do +they entirely cover the ground, but they are so intertwined with the +trees that their lovely flowers hang on the highest branches, and +look like the blossoms of the trees themselves. But there are +likewise trees whose own yellow and red blossoms resemble the most +beautiful flowers; while there are others whose great white leaves +stand out like silver from the surrounding mass of flowery green. +Woods like these might well be called "the giant gardens of the +world." The palm-trees have here almost disappeared. + +We soon reached the mountain range we had to cross, and on our way +often ascended such elevated spots that we had a free view extending +as far back as the capital. On the top of the mountain (Alta da +Serra, sixteen miles from Mendoza) we found a venda. From this spot +the distance to Morroqueimado is sixteen miles, which took us a long +time, as the road is either up or down hill the whole way. We were +continually surrounded by the most magnificent woodlands, and were +only rarely reminded by a small plantation of kabi, {39} or mil, +that we were in the neighbourhood of men. We did not perceive the +little town until we had surmounted the last eminence and were in +its immediate vicinity. It lies in a large and picturesque hollow, +surrounded by mountains at an elevation of 3,200 feet above the +level of the sea. As night was near at hand, we were glad enough to +reach our lodgings, which were situated on one side of the town, in +the house of a German named Linderoth; they were very comfortable, +and, as we afterwards found, exceedingly reasonable, seeing that for +our rooms and three good meals a-day we only paid one milreis (2s. +2d.). + +5th October. The small town of Novo Friburgo, or Morroqueimado, was +founded about fifteen years since by French, Swiss, and Germans. It +contains not quite a hundred substantial houses, the greater part of +which form an extremely broad street, while the others lie scattered +about, here and there. + +We had already heard, in Rio Janeiro, a great deal of the Messrs. +Beske and Freese, and been particularly recommended not to forget to +pay a visit to each. Herr Beske is a naturalist, and resides here +with his wife, who is almost as scientific as himself. We enjoyed +many an hour in their entertaining society, and were shown many +interesting collections of quadrupeds, birds, serpents, insects, +etc.; the collection of these last, indeed, was more rich and +remarkable than that in the Museum of Rio Janeiro. Herr Beske has +always a great many orders from Europe to send over various objects +of natural history. Herr Freese is the director and proprietor of +an establishment for boys, and preferred establishing his school in +this cool climate than in the hot town beneath. He was kind enough +to show us all his arrangements. As it was near evening when we +paid our visit, school was already over; but he presented all his +scholars to us, made them perform a few gymnastic exercises, and +proposed several questions on geography, history, arithmetic, etc., +which, without exception, they answered very carefully and +correctly. His establishment receives sixty boys, and was quite +full, although the annual charge for each boy is one thousand +milreis (108 pounds 6s. 8d.). + +6th October. We had at first intended to stop only one day in Novo +Friburgo, and then continue our journey. Unfortunately, however, +the wound which the Count had received on our excursion to +Petropolis became, through the frequent use of the hand and the +excessive heat, much worse; inflammation set in, and he was +consequently obliged to give up all ideas of going any further. +With my wounds I was more fortunate, for, as they were on the upper +part of the arm, I had been enabled to pay them a proper degree of +care and attention; they were now proceeding very favourably, and +neither dangerous nor troublesome. I had, therefore, no resource +left but either to pursue my journey alone, or to give up the most +interesting portion of it, namely, my visit to the Indians. To this +last idea I could by no means reconcile myself; I inquired, +therefore, whether the journey could be made with any degree of +safety, and as I received a sort of half-satisfactory answer, and +Herr Lindenroth found me also a trusty guide, I procured a good +double-barrelled pistol and set out undaunted upon my trip. + +We at first remained for some time in the midst of mountain ranges, +and then again descended into the warmer region beneath. The +valleys were generally narrow, and the uniform appearance of the +woods was often broken by plantations. The latter, however, did not +always look very promising, most of them being so choked up with +weeds that it was frequently impossible to perceive the plant +itself, especially when it was young and small. It is only upon the +sugar and coffee plantations that any great care is bestowed. + +The coffee-trees stand in rows upon tolerably steep hillocks. They +attain a height of from six to twelve feet, and begin to bear +sometimes as soon as the second, but in no case later than the third +year, and are productive for ten years. The leaf is long and +slightly serrated, the blossom white, while the fruit hangs down in +the same manner as a bunch of grapes, and resembles a longish +cherry, which is first green, then red, brown, and nearly black. +During the time it is red, the outer shell is soft, but ultimately +becomes perfectly hard, and resembles a wooden capsule. Blossoms +and fruit in full maturity are found upon the trees at the same +time, and hence the harvest lasts nearly the whole year. The latter +is conducted in two ways. The berries are either gathered by hand, +or large straw mats are spread underneath, and the trees well +shaken. The first method is the more troublesome, but, without +comparison, the better one. + +Another novelty, which I saw here for the first time, were the +frequent burning forests, which had been set on fire to clear the +ground for cultivation. In most cases I merely saw immense clouds +of smoke curling upwards in the distance, and desired nothing more +earnestly than to enjoy a nearer view of such a conflagration. My +wish was destined to be fulfilled today, as my road lay between a +burning forest and a burning rost. {40} The intervening space was +not, at the most, more than fifty paces broad, and was completely +enveloped in smoke. I could hear the cracking of the fire, and +through the dense vapour perceive thick, forked columns of flame +shoot upwards towards the sky, while now and then loud reports, like +those of a cannon, announced the fall of the large trees. On seeing +my guide enter this fiery gulf, I was, I must confess, rather +frightened; but I felt assured, on reflecting, that he would +certainly not foolishly risk his own life, and that he must know +from experience that such places were passable. + +At the entrance sat two negroes, to point out the direction that +wayfarers had to follow, and to recommend them to make as much haste +as possible. My guide translated for me what they said, and spurred +on his mule; I followed his example, and we both galloped at full +speed into the smoking pass. The burning ashes now flew around us +in all directions, while the suffocating smoke was even more +oppressive than the heat; our beasts, too, seemed to have great +difficulty in drawing breath, and it was as much as we could do to +keep them in a gallop. Fortunately we had not above 500 or 600 +paces to ride, and consequently succeeded in making our way safely +through. + +In the Brazils a conflagration of this kind never extends very far, +as the vegetation is too green and offers too much opposition. The +wood has to be ignited in several places, and even then the fire +frequently goes out, and when most of the wood is burnt, many +patches are found unconsumed. Soon after passing this dangerous +spot, we came to a magnificent rock, the sides of which must have +risen almost perpendicularly to a height of 600 or 800 feet. A +number of detached fragments lay scattered about the road, forming +picturesque groups. + +To my great astonishment, I learned from my guide that our lodging +for the night was near at hand; we had scarcely ridden twenty miles, +but he affirmed that the next venda where we could stop, was too far +distant. I afterwards discovered that his sole object was to spin +out the journey, which was a very profitable one for him, since, +besides good living for himself, and fodder for his two mules, he +received four milreis (8s. 8d.) a-day. We put up, therefore, at a +solitary venda, erected in the middle of the forest, and kept by +Herr Molasz. + +During the day we had suffered greatly from the heat; the +thermometer standing, in the sun, at 119 degrees 75' Fah. + +The circumstance which must strike a traveller most forcibly in the +habits of the colonists and inhabitants of the Brazils, is the +contrast between fear and courage. On the one hand, every one you +meet upon the road is armed with pistols and long knives, as if the +whole country was overrun with robbers and murderers; while, on the +other, the proprietors live quite alone on their plantations, and +without the least apprehension, in the midst of their numerous +slaves. The traveller, too, fearlessly passes the night in some +venda, situated in impenetrable woods, with neither shutters to the +windows nor good locks to the doors, besides which the owner's room +is a considerable distance from the chambers of the guests, and it +would be utterly impossible to obtain any assistance from the +servants, who are all slaves, as they live either in some corner of +the stable, or in the loft. At first I felt very frightened at thus +passing the night alone, surrounded by the wild gloom of the forest, +and in a room that was only very insecurely fastened; but, as I was +everywhere assured that such a thing as a forcible entry into a +house had never been heard of, I soon dismissed my superfluous +anxiety, and enjoyed the most tranquil repose. + +I know very few countries in Europe where I should like to traverse +vast forests, and pass the night in such awfully lonely houses, +accompanied by only a hired guide. + +On the 7th of October, also, we made only a short day's journey of +twenty miles, to the small town of Canto Gallo. The scenery was of +the usual description, consisting of narrow, circumscribed valleys +and mountains covered with endless forests. If little fazendas, and +the remains of woods which had been set on fire, had not, every now +and then, reminded us of the hand of man, I should have thought that +I was wandering through some yet undiscovered part of Brazil. + +The monotony of our journey was rather romantically interrupted by +our straying for a short distance from the right road. In order to +reach it again, we were obliged to penetrate, by untrodden paths, +through the woods; a task presenting difficulties of which a +European can scarcely form an idea. We dismounted from our mules, +and my guide threw back, on either side, the low-hanging branches, +and cut through the thick web of creepers; while, one moment, we +were obliged to climb over broken trunks, or squeeze ourselves +between others, at the next we sank knee-deep among endless +parasitical plants. I began almost to despair of ever effecting a +passage, and, even up to the present day, am at a loss to understand +how we succeeded in escaping from this inextricable mass. + +The little town of Canto Gallo is situated in a narrow valley, and +contains about eighty houses. The venda stands apart, the town not +being visible from it. The temperature here is warm as in Rio +Janeiro. + +On my return to the venda, after a short walk to the town, I applied +to my landlady, in order to obtain a near and really correct idea of +a Brazilian household. The good woman, however, gave herself very +little trouble, either in looking after the house or the kitchen; as +is the case in Italy, this was her husband's business. A negress +and two young negroes cooked, the arrangements of the kitchen being +of the most primitive simplicity. The salt was pressed fine with a +bottle; the potatoes, when boiled, underwent the same process--the +latter were also subsequently squeezed in the frying-pan with a +plate, to give them the form of a pancake; a pointed piece of wood +served for a fork, etc. There was a large fire burning for every +dish. + +Every one whose complexion was white, sat down with us at table. +All the dishes, consisting of cold roast beef, black beans with +boiled carna secca, {42} potatoes, rice, manioc flour, and boiled +manioc roots, were placed upon the table at the same time, and every +one helped himself as he pleased. At the conclusion of our meal, we +had strong coffee without milk. The slaves had beans, carna secca, +and manioc flour. + +8th October. Our goal today was the Fazenda Boa Esperanza, twenty- +four miles off. Four miles beyond Canto Gallo, we crossed a small +waterfall, and then entered one of the most magnificent virgin +forests I had yet beheld. A small path, on the bank of a little +brook conducted us through it. Palms, with their majestic tops, +raised themselves proudly above the other trees, which, lovingly +interlaced together, formed the most beautiful bowers; orchids grew +in wanton luxuriance upon the branches and twigs; creepers and ferns +climbed up the trees, mingling with the boughs, and forming thick +walls of blossoms and flowers, which displayed the most brilliant +colours, and exhaled the sweetest perfume; delicate humming-birds +twittered around our heads; the pepper-pecker, with his brilliant +plumage, soared shyly upwards; parrots and parroquets were swinging +themselves in the branches, and numberless beautifully marked birds, +which I only knew from having seen specimens in the Museum, +inhabited this fairy grove. It seemed as if I was riding in some +fairy park, and I expected, every moment, to see sylphs and nymphs +appear before me. + +I was so happy, that I felt richly recompensed for all the fatigue +of my journey. One thought only obscured this beautiful picture; +and that was, that weak man should dare to enter the lists with the +giant nature of the place, and make it bend before his will. How +soon, perhaps, may this profound and holy tranquillity be disturbed +by the blows of some daring settler's axe, to make room for the +wants of men! + +I saw no dangerous animals save a few dark green snakes, from five +to seven feet long; a dead ounce, that had been stripped of its +skin; and a lizard, three feet in length, which ran timidly across +our path. I met with no apes; they appear to conceal themselves +deeper in the woods, where no human footstep is likely to disturb +them in their sports and gambols. + +During the whole distance from Canto Gallo to the small village of +St. Ritta (sixteen miles), if it had not again been for a few coffee +plantations, I should have thought the place completely forgotten by +man. + +Near St. Ritta are some gold-washings in the river of the same name, +and not far from them, diamonds also are found. Since seeking or +digging for diamonds is no longer an imperial monopoly, every one is +at liberty to employ himself in this occupation, and yet it is +exercised as much as possible in secret. No one will acknowledge +looking for them, in order to avoid paying the State its share as +fixed by law. The precious stones are sought for and dug out at +certain spots, from heaps of sand, stones, and soil, which have been +washed down by the heavy rains. + +I had found lodgings in a venda for the last time, the preceding +evening, at Canto Gallo. I had now to rely upon the hospitality of +the proprietors of the fazendas. Custom requires that, on reaching +a fazenda, any person who desires to stop the middle of the day or +the night there, should wait outside and ask, through the servant, +permission to do so. It is not until his application is granted, +which is almost always the case, that the traveller dismounts from +his mule, and enters the building. + +They received me at the Fazenda of Boa Esperanza in the most +friendly manner, and, as I happened to arrive exactly at dinner-time +(it was between 3 and 4 o'clock), covers were immediately laid for +me and my attendant. The dishes were numerous, and prepared very +nearly in the European fashion. + +Great astonishment was manifested in every venda and fazenda at +seeing a lady arrive accompanied only by a single servant. The +first question was, whether I was not afraid thus to traverse the +woods alone; and my guide was invariably taken on one side, and +questioned as to way I travelled. As he was in the habit of seeing +me collect flowers and insects, he supposed me to be a naturalist, +and replied that my journey had a scientific object. + +After dinner, the amiable lady of the house proposed that I should +go and see the coffee-plantations, warehouses, etc.; and I willingly +accepted her offer, as affording me an opportunity of viewing the +manner in which the coffee was prepared, from beginning to end. + +The mode of gathering it I have already described. When this is +done, the coffee is spread out upon large plots of ground, trodden +down in a peculiar manner, and enclosed by low stone walls, scarcely +a foot high, with little drain-holes in them, to allow of the water +running off in case of rain. On these places the coffee is dried by +the glowing heat of the sun, and then shaken in large stone mortars, +ten or twenty of which are placed beneath a wooden scaffolding, from +which wooden hammers, set in motion by water power, descend into the +mortars, and easily crush the husks. The mass, thus crushed, is +then placed in wooden boxes, fastened in the middle of a long table, +and having small openings at each side, through which both the berry +itself and the husk fall slowly out. At the table are seated +negroes, who separate the berry from the husk, and then cast it into +shallow copper cauldrons, which are easily heated. In these it is +carefully turned, and remains until it is quite dried. This last +process requires some degree of care, as the colour of the coffee +depends upon the degree of heat to which it is exposed; if dried too +quickly, instead of the usual greenish colour, it contracts a +yellowish tinge. + +On the whole, the preparation of coffee is not fatiguing, and even +the gathering of it is far from being as laborious as reaping is +with us. The negro stands in an upright posture when gathering the +berry, and is protected by the tree itself against the great heat of +the sun. The only danger he incurs is of being bitten by some +venomous snake or other--an accident, however, which, fortunately, +rarely happens. + +The work on a sugar-plantation, on the contrary, is said to be +exceedingly laborious, particularly that portion of it which relates +to weeding the ground and cutting the cane. I have never yet +witnessed a sugar-harvest, but, perhaps, may do so in the course of +my travels. + +All work ceases at sunset, when the negroes are drawn up in front of +their master's house for the purpose of being counted, and then, +after a short prayer, have their supper, consisting of boiled beans, +bacon, carna secca, and manioc flour, handed out to them. + +At sunrise, they again assemble, are once more counted, and, after +prayers and breakfast, go to work. + +I had an opportunity of convincing myself in this, as well as in +many other fazendas, vendas, and private houses, that the slaves are +by far not so harshly treated as we Europeans imagine. They are not +overworked, perform all their duties very leisurely, and are well +kept. Their children are frequently the playmates of their master's +children, and knock each other about as if they were all equal. +There may be cases in which certain slaves are cruelly and +undeservedly punished; but do not the like instances of injustice +occur in Europe also? + +I am certainly very much opposed to slavery, and should greet its +abolition with the greatest delight, but, despite this, I again +affirm that the negro slave enjoys, under the protection of the law, +a better lot than the free fellah of Egypt, or many peasants in +Europe, who still groan under the right of soccage. The principal +reason of the better lot of the slave, compared to that of the +miserable peasant, in the case in point, may perhaps partly be, that +the purchase and keep of the one is expensive, while the other costs +nothing. + +The arrangements in the houses belonging to the proprietors of the +fazendas are extremely simple. The windows are unglazed, and are +closed at night with wooden shutters. In many instances, the outer +roof is the common covering of all the rooms, which are merely +separated from one another by low partitions, so that you can hear +every word your neighbour says, and almost the breathing of the +person sleeping next to you. The furniture is equally simple: a +large table, a few straw sofas, and a few chairs. The wearing +apparel is generally hung up against the walls; the linen alone +being kept in tin cases, to protect it from the attacks of the ants. + +In the country, the children of even the most opulent persons run +about frequently without shoes or stockings. Before they go to bed +they have their feet examined to see whether any sand-fleas have +nestled in them; and if such be the case, they are extracted by the +elder negro children. + +9th October. Early in the morning I took leave of my kind hostess, +who, like a truly careful housewife, had wrapped up a roasted fowl, +manioc flour, and a cheese for me, so that I was well provisioned on +setting off. + +The next station, Aldea do Pedro, on the banks of the Parahyby, was +situated at a distance of sixteen miles. Our way lay through +magnificent woods, and before we had traversed half of it, we +arrived at the river Parahyby, one of the largest in the Brazils, +and celebrated, moreover, for the peculiar character of its bed, +which is strewed with innumerable cliffs and rocks; these, owing to +the low state of the stream, were more than usually conspicuous. On +every side rose little islands, covered with small trees or +underwood, lending a most magic appearance to the river. During the +rainy season, most of these cliffs and rocks are covered with water, +and the river then appears more majestic. On account of the rocks +it can only be navigated by small boats and rafts. + +As you proceed along the banks, the scenery gradually changes. The +fore-part of the mountain ranges subside into low hills, the +mountains themselves retreat, and the nearer you approach Aldea do +Pedro, the wider and more open becomes the valley. In the +background alone are still visible splendid mountain ranges, from +which rises a mountain higher than the rest, somewhat more naked, +and almost isolated. To this my guide pointed, and gave me to +understand that our way lay over it, in order to reach the Puris, +who lived beyond. + +About noon I arrived at Aldea do Pedro, which I found to be a small +village with a stone church; the latter might, perhaps, contain 200 +persons. I had intended continuing my journey to the Puris the same +day, but my guide was attacked with pains in his knee, and could not +ride further. I had, therefore, no resource but to alight at the +priest's, who gave me a hearty welcome; he had a pretty good house, +immediately adjoining the church. + +10th October. As my guide was worse, the priest offered me his +negro to replace him. I thankfully accepted his offer, but could +not set off before 1 o'clock, for which I was, in some respects, not +sorry, as it was Sunday, and I hoped to see a great number of the +country people flock to mass. This, however, was not the case; +although it was a very fine day there were hardly thirty people at +church. The men were dressed exactly in the European fashion; the +women wore long cloaks with collars, and had white handkerchiefs +upon their heads, partly falling over their faces as well; the +latter they uncovered in church. Both men and women were +barefooted. + +As chance would have it, I witnessed a burial and a christening. +Before mass commenced, a boat crossed over from the opposite bank of +the Parahyby, and on reaching the side, a hammock, in which was the +deceased, was lifted out. He was then laid in a coffin which had +been prepared for the purpose in a house near the churchyard. The +corpse was enveloped in a white cloth, with the feet and half the +head protruding beyond it; the latter was covered with a peaked cap +of shining black cloth. + +The christening took place before the burial. The person who was to +be christened was a young negro of fifteen, who stood with his +mother at the church door. As the priest entered the church to +perform mass, he christened him, in passing by, without much +ceremony or solemnity, and even without sponsors; the boy, too, +seemed to be as little touched by the whole affair as a new born +infant. I do not believe that either he or his mother had the least +idea of the importance of the rite. + +The priest then hurriedly performed mass, and read the burial +service over the deceased, who had belonged to rather a wealthy +family, and therefore was respectably interred. Unfortunately, when +they wanted to lower the corpse into its cold resting-place, the +latter was found to be too short and too narrow, and the poor wretch +was so tossed about, coffin and all, that I expected every moment to +see him roll out. But all was of no avail, and after a great deal +of useless exertion no other course was left but to place the coffin +on one side and enlarge the grave, which was done with much +unwillingness and amid an unceasing volley of oaths. + +This fatiguing work being at last finished, I returned to the house, +where I took a good dejeuner a la fourchette in company with the +priest, and then set out with my black guide. + +We rode for some time through a broad valley between splendid woods, +and had to cross two rivers, the Parahyby and the Pomba, in trunks +of trees hollowed out. For each of these wretched conveyances I was +obliged to pay one milreis (2s. 2d.), and to incur great danger into +the bargain; not so much on account of the stream and the small size +of the craft, as of our mules, which, fastened by their halter, swam +alongside, and frequently came so near that I was afraid that we +should be every moment capsized. + +After riding twelve miles further, we reached the last settlement of +the whites. {47} On an open space, which had with difficulty been +conquered from the virgin forest, stood a largish wooden house, +surrounded by a few miserable huts, the house serving as the +residence of the whites, and the huts as that of the slaves. A +letter which I had brought from the priest procured me a welcome. + +The manner of living in this settlement was of such a description +that I was almost tempted to believe that I was already among +savages. + +The large house contained an entrance hall leading into four rooms, +each of which was inhabited by a white family. The whole furniture +of these rooms consisted of a few hammocks and straw mats. The +inhabitants were cowering upon the floor, playing with the children, +or assisting one another to get rid of their vermin. The kitchen +was immediately adjoining the house, and resembled a very large barn +with openings in it; upon a hearth that took up nearly the entire +length of the barn, several fires were burning, over which hung +small kettles, and at each side were fastened wooden spits. On +these were fixed several pieces of meat, some of which were being +roasted by the fire and some cured by the smoke. The kitchen was +full of people: whites, Puris, and negroes, children whose parents +were whites and Puris, or Puris and negroes--in a word, the place +was like a book of specimens containing the most varied +ramifications of the three principal races of the country. + +In the court-yard was an immense number of fowls, beautifully marked +ducks and geese; I also saw some extraordinarily fat pigs, and some +horribly ugly dogs. Under some cocoa-palms and tamarind-trees, were +seated white and coloured people, separate and in groups, mostly +occupied in satisfying their hunger. Some had got broken basins or +pumpkin-gourds before them, in which they kneaded up with their +hands boiled beans and manioc flour; this thick and disgusting- +looking mess they devoured with avidity. Others were eating pieces +of meat, which they likewise tore with their hands, and threw into +their mouths alternately with handfuls of manioc flour. The +children, who also had their gourds before them, were obliged to +defend the contents valiantly; for at one moment a hen would peck +something out, and, at the next, a dog would run off with a bit, or +sometimes even a little pig would waggle up, and invariably give a +most contented grunt when it had not performed the journey for +nothing. + +While I was making these observations, I suddenly heard a merry cry +outside the court-yard; I proceeded to the place from which it +issued, and saw two boys dragging towards me a large dark brown +serpent; certainly more than seven feet long, at the end of a bast- +rope. It was already dead, and, as far as I could learn from the +explanations of those about me, it was of so venomous a kind, that +if a person is bitten by it, he immediately swells up and dies. + +I was rather startled at what I heard, and determined at least not +to set out through the wood just as evening was closing in, as I +might have to take up my quarters for the night under some tree; I +therefore deferred my visit to the savages until the next morning. +The good people imagined that I was afraid of the savages, and +earnestly assured me that they were a most harmless race, from whom +I had not the least to fear. As my knowledge of Portuguese was +limited to a few words, I found it rather difficult to make myself +understood, and it was only by the help of gesticulations, with now +and then a small sketch, that I succeeded in enlightening them as to +the real cause of my fear. + +I passed the night, therefore, with these half savages, who +constantly showed me the greatest respect, and overwhelmed me with +attention. A straw mat, which, at my request, was spread out under +shelter in the court-yard, was my bed. They brought me for supper a +roast fowl, rice, and hard eggs, and for dessert, oranges and +tamarind-pods; the latter contain a brown, half sweet, half sour +pulp, very agreeable to the taste. The women lay all round me, and +by degrees we managed to get on wonderfully together. + +I showed them the different flowers and insects I had gathered +during the day. This, doubtless, induced them to look upon me as a +learned person, and, as such, to impute to me a knowledge of +medicine. They begged me to prescribe for different cases of +illness: bad ears, eruptions of the skin, and in the children, a +considerable tendency to scrofula, etc. I ordered lukewarm baths, +frequent fomentations, and the use of oil and soap, applied +externally and rubbed into the body. May Heaven grant that these +remedies have really worked some good! + +On the 11th of October, I proceeded into the forest, in company with +a negress and a Puri, to find out the Indians. At times, we had to +work our way laboriously through the thicket, and then again we +would find narrow paths, by which we pursued our journey with +greater ease. After eight hours' walking, we came upon a number of +Puris, who led us into their huts, situated in the immediate +vicinity, where I beheld a picture of the greatest misery and want: +I had often met with a great deal of wretchedness in my travels, but +never so much as I saw here! + +On a small space, under lofty trees, five huts, or rather sheds, +formed of leaves, were erected, eighteen feet long, by twelve feet +broad. The frames were formed of four poles stuck in the ground, +with another reaching across; and the roof, of palm-leaves, through +which the rain could penetrate with the utmost facility. On three +sides, these bowers were entirely open. In the interior hung a +hammock or two; and on the ground glimmered a little fire, under a +heap of ashes, in which a few roots, Indian corn, and bananas, were +roasting. In one corner, under the roof, a small supply of +provisions was hoarded up, and a few gourds were scattered around: +these are used by the savages instead of plates, pots, water-jugs, +etc. The long bows and arrows, which constitute their only weapons, +were leaning in the background against the wall. + +I found the Indians still more ugly than the negroes. Their +complexion is a light bronze, stunted in stature, well-knit, and +about the middle size. They have broad and somewhat compressed +features, and thick, coal-black hair, hanging straight down, which +the women sometimes wear in plaits fastened to the back of the head, +and sometimes falling down loose about them. Their forehead is +broad and low, the nose somewhat flattened, the eyes long and +narrow, almost like those of the Chinese, and the mouth large, with +rather thick lips. To give a still greater effect to all these +various charms, a peculiar look of stupidity is spread over the +whole face, and is more especially to be attributed to the way in +which their mouths are always kept opened. + +Most of them, both men and women, were tattooed with a reddish or +blue colour, though only round the mouth, in the form of a +moustache. Both sexes are passionately fond of smoking, and prefer +brandy to everything. Their dress was composed of a few rags, which +they had fastened round their loins. + +I had already heard, in Novo Friburgo, a few interesting particulars +concerning the Puris, which I will here relate. + +The number of the Brazilian Indians at the present time is +calculated at about 500,000, who live scattered about the forests in +the heart of the country. Not more than six or seven families ever +settle on the same spot, which they leave as soon as the game in the +neighbourhood has been killed, and all the fruit and roots consumed. +A large number of these Indians have been christened. They are +always ready, for a little brandy or tobacco, to undergo the +ceremony at the shortest notice, and only regret that it cannot be +repeated more frequently, as it is soon over. The priest believes +that he has only to perform the rite in order to gain another soul +for heaven, and afterwards gives himself very little concern, either +about the instruction or the manners and morals of his converts. +These, it is true, are called Christians, or _tamed savages_, but +live in the same heathen manner that they previously did. Thus, for +instance, they contract marriages for indefinite periods; elect +their Caciques (chiefs) from the strongest and finest men; follow +all their old customs on the occasion of marriages and deaths, just +the same as before baptism. + +Their language is very poor: they are said, for example, only to be +able to count one and two, and are therefore obliged, when they +desire to express a larger number, to repeat these two figures +continually. Furthermore, for _today, to-morrow_, and _yesterday_, +they possess only the word _day_, and express their more particular +meaning by signs; for _today_, they say _day_, and feel their head, +or point upwards; for _to-morrow_, they again use the word _day_, +and point their fingers in a straightforward direction; and for +_yesterday_, they use the same word, and point behind them. + +The Puris are said to be peculiarly adapted for tracking runaway +negroes, as their organs of smell are very highly developed. They +smell the trace of the fugitive on the leaves of the trees; and if +the negro does not succeed in reaching some stream, in which he can +either walk or swim for a considerable distance, it is asserted that +he can very seldom escape the Indian engaged in pursuit of him. +These savages are also readily employed in felling timber, and +cultivating Indian corn, manioc, etc., as they are very industrious, +and think themselves well paid with a little tobacco, brandy, or +coloured cloth. But on no account must they be compelled to do +anything by force: they are free men. They seldom, however, come +to offer their assistance unless they are half-starved. + +I visited the huts of all these savages; and as my guides had +trumpeted forth my praises as being a woman of great knowledge, I +was here asked my advice for the benefit of every one who was ill. + +In one of the huts, I found an old woman groaning in her hammock. +On my drawing nearer, they uncovered the poor creature, and I +perceived that all her breast was eaten up by cancer. She seemed to +have no idea of a bandage, or any means of soothing the pain. I +advised her to wash the wound frequently with a decoction of +mallows, {50} and, in addition to this, to cover it over with the +leaves of the same plant. I only trust that my advice procured her +some trifling relief. + +This horrible disease unfortunately does not appear to be at all +rare among the Puris, for I saw many of their women, some of whom +had large hard swellings, and others even small tumours on the +breast. + +After having sufficiently examined everything in the huts, I went +with some of the savages to shoot parrots and monkeys. We had not +far to go in order to meet with both; and I had now an opportunity +of admiring the skill with which these people use their bows. They +brought down the birds even when they were on the wing, and very +seldom missed their mark. After shooting three parrots and an ape, +we returned to the huts. + +The good creatures offered me the best hut they possessed, and +invited me to pass the night there. Being rather fatigued by the +toilsome nature of my journey on foot, the heat, and the hunting +excursion, I very joyfully accepted their proposition: the day, +too, was drawing to a close, and I should not have been able to +reach the settlement of the whites before night. I therefore spread +out my cloak upon the ground, arranged a log of wood so as to serve +instead of a pillow, and for the present seated myself upon my +splendid couch. In the meanwhile, my hosts were preparing the +monkey and the parrots, by sticking them on wooden spits, and +roasting them before the fire. In order to render the meal a +peculiarly dainty one, they also buried some Indian corn and roots +in the cinders. They then gathered a few large fresh leaves off the +trees, tore the roasted ape into several pieces with their hands, +and placing a large portion of it, as well as a parrot, Indian corn, +and some roots upon the leaves, put it before me. My appetite was +tremendous, seeing that I had tasted nothing since the morning. I +therefore immediately fell to on the roasted monkey, which I found +superlatively delicious: the flesh of the parrot was far from being +so tender and palatable. + +After our meal, I begged the Indians to perform one of their dances +for me--a request with which they readily complied. As it was +already dark, they brought a quantity of wood, which they formed +into a sort of funeral pile, and set on fire: the men then formed a +circle all round, and began the dance. They threw their bodies from +side to side in a most remarkably awkward fashion, but always moving +the head forwards in a straight line. The women then joined in, +remaining, however, at some little distance in the rear of the men, +and making the same awkward movements. They now began a most +horrible noise, which was intended for a song, at the same time +distorting their features in a frightful manner. One of them stood +near, playing upon a kind of stringed instrument, made out of the +stem of a cabbage-palm, and about two feet, or two feet and a half, +in length. A hole was cut in it in a slanting direction, and six +fibres of the stem had been raised up, and kept in an elevated +position at each end, by means of a small bridge. The fingers were +then used for playing upon these as upon a guitar: the tone was +very low, disagreeable, and hoarse. + +This first dance they named the Dance of Peace or Joy. The men then +performed a much wilder one alone. After providing themselves for +the purpose with bows, arrows, and stout clubs, they again formed a +circle, but their movements were much quicker and wilder than in the +first instance, and they likewise hit about them with their clubs in +a horrible fashion. They then suddenly broke their rank, strung +their bows, placed their arrows ready, and went through the +pantomime of shooting after a flying foe, uttering at the same time +the most piercing cries, which echoed through the whole forest. I +started up in affright, for I really believed that I was surrounded +by enemies, and that I was delivered up into their power, without +any chance of help or assistance. I was heartily glad when this +horrible war-dance came to a conclusion. + +After retiring to rest, and when all around had gradually become +hushed into silence, I was assailed by apprehensions of another +description: I thought of the number of wild beasts, and the +horrible serpents that might perhaps be concealed quite close to me, +and then of the exposed situation I was in. This kept me awake a +long time, and I often fancied I heard a rustling among the leaves, +as if one of the dreaded animals were breaking through. At length, +however, my weary body asserted its rights. I laid my head upon my +wooden pillow, and consoled myself with the idea that the danger +was, after all, not so great as many of we travellers wish to have +believed, otherwise how would it be possible for the savages to live +as they do, without any precautions, in their open huts! + +On the 12th of October, early in the morning, I took leave of the +savages, and made them a present of various bronze ornaments, with +which they were so delighted that they offered me everything they +possessed. I took a bow with a couple of arrows, as mementos of my +visit; returned to the wooden house, and having also distributed +similar presents there, mounted my mule, and arrived late in the +evening at Aldea do Pedro. + +On the morning of the 13th of October, I bade the obliging priest +farewell, and with my attendant, who, by this time was quite +recovered, began my journey back to Novo Friburgo, and, in this +instance, although I pursued the same road, was only three days +instead of four on the way. + +On arriving I found Count Berchthold, who was now quite well. We +determined, therefore, before returning to Rio Janeiro, to make a +little excursion to a fine waterfall, about twelve miles from Novo +Friburgo. By mere chance we learned that the christening of the +Princess Isabella would take place on the 19th, and, as we did not +wish to miss this interesting ceremony, we preferred returning +directly. We followed the same road we had taken in coming, till +about four miles before reaching Ponte de Pinheiro, and then struck +off towards Porto de Praja. This road was thirty-two miles longer +by land, but so much shorter by sea, that the passage is made by +steamer from Porto de Praja to Rio Janeiro in half an hour. The +scenery around Pinheiro was mostly dull and tedious, almost like a +desert, the monotony of which was only broken here and there by a +few scanty woods or low hills. We were not lucky enough to see the +mountains again until we were near the capital. + +I must here mention a comical mistake of Herr Beske, of Novo +Friburgo, which we at first could not understand, but which +afterwards afforded a good deal of amusement. Herr Beske had +recommended us a guide, whom he described as a walking encyclopaedia +of knowledge, and able to answer all our questions about trees, +plants, scenery, etc., in the most complete manner. We esteemed +ourselves exceedingly fortunate to obtain such a phoenix of a guide, +and immediately took advantage of every opportunity to put his +powers to the test. He could, however, tell us nothing at all; if +we asked him the name of a river, he replied that it was too small, +and had no name. The trees, likewise, were too insignificant, the +plants too common. This ignorance was rather too much; we made +inquiry, and found that Herr Beske had not intended to send us the +guide we had, but his brother, who, however, had died six months +previously--a circumstance which Herr Beske must have forgotten. + +On the evening of the 18th of October, we arrived safely in Rio +Janeiro. We immediately inquired about the christening, and heard +it had been put off till the 15th of November, and that on the 19th +of October only the Emperor's anniversary would be kept. We had +thus hurried back to no purpose, without visiting the waterfall near +Novo Friburgo, which we might have admired very much at our leisure. + +On our return we only came eight miles out of our way. + + + +CHAPTER V. THE VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO--SANTOS AND ST. PAULO--CIRCUMNAVIGATION +OF CAPE HORN--THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN--ARRIVAL IN VALPARAISO--8TH +DECEMBER, 1846, TO 2ND MARCH, 1847. + +When I paid 25 pounds for my place in the fine English barque, "John +Renwick," Captain Bell, the latter promised me that he would be +ready to sail on the 25th of November at the latest, and would stop +at no intermediate port, but shape his course direct to Valparaiso. +The first part of this promise I believed, because he assured me +that every day he stopped cost him 7 pounds; and the second, +because, as a general rule, I willingly believe every one, even ship +captains. In both particulars, however, was I deceived; for it was +not until the 8th of December that I received a notice to go on +board that evening and then for the first time the captain informed +me that he must run into Santos, to lay in a stock of provisions, +which were there much cheaper than in Rio Janeiro; that he also +intended clearing out a cargo of coal and taking in another of +sugar. He did not tell me till we arrived in Santos itself, where +he also assured me that all these different matters would not take +him more than three or four days. + +I took leave of my friends and went on board in the evening; Count +Berchthold and Messrs. Geiger and Rister accompanying me to the +ship. + +Early in the morning of the 9th of December we weighed anchor, but +the wind was so unfavourable that we were obliged to tack the whole +day in order to gain the open sea, and it was not until about 10 +A.M. that we lost sight of land. + +There were eight passengers besides myself; five Frenchmen, one +Belgian, and two citizens of Milan. I looked upon the latter as +half countrymen of mine, and we were soon very good friends. + +It was the second time this year that the two Italians were making +the voyage round Cape Horn. Their first had not been fortunate; +they reached Cape Horn in winter, which in those cold southern +latitudes lasts from April till about November. {53} They were +unable to circumnavigate the Cape, being driven back by violent +contrary winds and storms, against which they strove for fourteen +weary days without making the least progress. The crew now lost +courage, and affirmed that it would be advisable to turn back and +wait for more favourable winds. The captain, however, was not of +this opinion, and succeeded so well in working upon the pride of the +crew that they once more engaged in their conflict with the +elements. It was, however, for the last time, for the very same +night a tremendous sea broke over the ship, tearing away all her +upper works, and sweeping the captain and six of the sailors +overboard. The water poured in torrents into the cabins, and drove +every one from the berths. The bulwarks, boats, and binnacle were +carried clean off, and the mainmast had to be cut away. The sailors +then turned the ship about, and after a long and dangerous voyage, +succeeded in bringing her, dismasted as she was, into Rio Janeiro. + +This story was not very encouraging, but the fine weather and our +good ship relieved us of all anxiety. With regard to the vessel, we +could not have chosen a better. It had large, comfortable cabins, +an exceedingly good-natured and obliging captain, and a bill of fare +which must have contented the most dainty palate. Every day we had +roast or stewed fowls, ducks, or geese, fresh mutton or pork, eggs +variously prepared, plum-pudding and tarts; to all this were added +side dishes of ham, rice, potatoes, and other vegetables; and for +dessert, dried fruit, nuts, almonds, cheese, etc. There was also +plenty of bread, fresh baked every day, and good wine. We all +unanimously acknowledged that we had never been so well treated, or +had so good a table in any sailing vessel before; and we could, +therefore, in this respect, look forward to our voyage without any +apprehension. + +On the 12th of December we hove in sight of the mountain ranges of +Santos, and at 9 o'clock the same evening we reached a bay which the +captain took for that of the same name. Lighted torches were +repeatedly held over the vessel's side to summon a pilot; no pilot, +however, made his appearance, and we were therefore obliged to trust +to chance, and anchor at the mouth of the bay. + +On the morning of the 13th a pilot came on board, and astonished us +with the intelligence that we had anchored before the wrong bay. We +had some trouble in working our way out, and anchoring about noon in +the right one. A pretty little chateau-like building immediately +attracted our attention. We took it for some advanced building of +the town, and congratulated one another on having reached our +temporary destination so quickly. On approaching nearer, however, +we could perceive no signs of the town, and learned that the +building was a small fort, and that Santos was situated in a second +bay, communicating with the first by a small arm of the sea. +Unluckily, the wind had by this time fallen, and we were obliged to +be at anchor all day, and it was not until the 14th that a slight +breeze sprang up and wafted us into port. + +Santos is most charmingly situated at the entrance of a large +valley. Picturesque hills, adorned with chapels and detached +houses, rise on each side, and immediately beyond are considerable +mountain ranges, spreading in a semi-circle round the valley, while +a lovely island forms a most beautiful foreground to the whole. + +We had scarcely landed before the captain informed us that we must +stop for at least five days. The Italians, one of the Frenchmen, +and myself determined that we would take advantage of this delay to +make an excursion to St. Paulo, the largest inland town of the +Brazils, and about forty miles from Santos. The same evening we +hired mules, for which we paid five milreis (10s. 10d.) each, and +set out upon our trip. + +15th December. Early in the morning, we armed ourselves with well- +charged double-barrelled pistols, having been alarmed by accounts of +the Maroon negroes, {55} about a hundred of whom were said to be at +that time lurking in the mountains, and to be so daring that they +extended their inroads as far as the vicinity of Santos itself. + +The first eight miles led through the valley to the lofty range of +mountains which we had to cross. The road was good, and more +frequented than any I had yet seen in the Brazils. Handsome wooden +bridges traverse the rivers Vicente and Cubatao; one of these +bridges is actually covered, but then every one is charged a pretty +high toll. + +In one of the vendas at the foot of the mountain we fortified +ourselves with some excellent pan-cakes, laid in a stock of sugar- +canes, the juice of which is excessively refreshing in the great +heat, and then proceeded to scale the Serra, 3,400 feet high. The +road was execrable; full of holes, pits, and puddles, in which our +poor beasts often sank above their knees. We had to skirt chasms +and ravines, with torrents rolling loudly beneath, yet not visible +to us, on account of the thick underwood which grew over them. Some +part of the way, too, lay through virgin forests, which, however, +were not nearly so beautiful or thick as some I had traversed on my +excursion to the Puris. There were hardly any palm-trees, and the +few there were, reminded us, from their thin stems and scanty +foliage, of those of a colder climate. + +The prospect from the Serra struck us all with astonishment. The +entire valley with its woods and prairies was spread far and wide +before our sight as far as the bays, the little detached huts being +quite indistinguishable, while only a part of the town and a few +masts of ships were perceptible in the distance. + +A turning in the road soon shut out this charming picture from our +gaze; we then left the Serra and entered upon a woody, uneven tract, +alternating with large level grass-plots, covered with low +brushwood, and innumerable mole-hills, two feet high. + +Half way from Santos to St. Paulo is a place called Rio Grande, the +houses of which lie, after the Brazilian fashion, so far apart, that +no one would suppose they had any connection with each other. The +owner of the mules used on this journey resides here, and here, +likewise, the money for their hire is paid. If the traveller +desires to proceed immediately he has fresh mules given him, but, +should he prefer stopping the afternoon or night, he finds very good +victual and clean rooms, for which he has nothing to pay, as they +are included in the five milreis (10s. 10d.), charged for the mules. + +We snatched a hasty morsel or two, and then hurried on, in order to +complete the second half of the road before sunset. The plain +became broader and broader the nearer we approached the town; the +beauty of the scenery falls off very much, and for the first time +since I left Europe, did I see fields and hills of sand. The town +itself, situated upon a hill, presents a tolerable appearance; it +contains about 22,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable +importance for the internal commerce of the country. In spite of +this, however, it has neither an inn nor any other place where +strangers can alight. + +After inquiring for a long time in vain for lodgings, we were +directed to a German and a Frenchman, with the remark that both +received lodgers out of pure politeness. We first went to the +German, who very bluntly cut us short by saying that he had no room. +From him we proceeded to the Frenchman, who sent us to a Portuguese, +and on visiting the latter we received the same answer we had +obtained from the German. + +We were now greatly embarrassed; the more so, because the wearisome +nature of our journey had so fatigued the Frenchman that he was +hardly able any longer to sit upright in his saddle. + +In this critical position I thought of the letter of recommendation +that Herr Geiger had given me in Rio Janeiro, for a German gentleman +of the name of Loskiel, who had settled here. I had intended not to +deliver this letter until the next day, but "necessity knows no +law," and so I paid my visit the same evening. + +He was kind enough to interest himself for us in the warmest manner +imaginable. He gave one of the gentlemen and myself lodgings in his +own house, and our two companions in that of a neighbour of his, +inviting all of us to dine at his table. We now learned that in St. +Paulo no one, not even an hotel-keeper, will receive a stranger if +he be not provided with a letter of recommendation. It is certainly +a lucky thing for travellers that this strange custom is not +prevalent everywhere. + +16th December. After having completely recovered ourselves from the +fatigues of our yesterday's ride, our first thought was to view the +curiosities of the town. We asked our hospitable host for +information on this point, but he merely shrugged his shoulders, and +said, that he knew of no curiosities, unless, indeed, we chose to +look upon the Botanical Garden in the light of one. + +We went out, therefore, after breakfast, and first of all viewed the +town: where we found that the number of large and well-built houses +was, in comparison to the size of the two places, greater than in +Rio Janeiro, although even here, there was nothing like taste or +peculiar architectural style. The streets are tolerably wide, but +present an extraordinarily deserted appearance, the universal +silence being broken only by the insupportable creaking of the +country people's carts. These carts rest upon two wheels, or rather +two wooden disks, which are often not even hooped with iron to keep +them together. The axle, which is likewise of wood, is never +greased, and thus causes the demoniacal kind of music to which I +alluded. + +A peculiarity of dress, very remarkable in this hot climate, is here +prevalent: all the men, with the exception of the slaves, wear +large cloth cloaks, one half of which they throw over their +shoulder; I even saw a great many women enveloped in long, broad +cloth capes. + +In St. Paulo there is a High School. Those who study there, and +come from the country or the smaller towns, are exposed to the +inconvenience of being refused lodgings under any one's roof. They +are obliged to hire and furnish houses for themselves, and be their +own housekeepers. + +We visited several churches which possess very little worth looking +at, either inside or out, and then concluded by proceeding to the +Botanical Garden, which also contains no object of any interest, +with the exception of a plantation of Chinese teas. + +All our sight-seeing did not occupy us more than a few hours, and we +could very conveniently have begun our journey back to Santos the +next morning; but the Frenchman, who, on account of the great +fatigue he had suffered, had not accompanied us in our walk, begged +us to put off our return for half a day longer, and to arrange it in +such a manner, that we should pass the night in Rio Grande. We +willingly acceded to his wish, and set out upon the afternoon of the +17th, after thanking our kind host most cordially for his hospitable +entertainment. In Rio Grande we found an excellent supper, +convenient sleeping apartments, and a good breakfast the next +morning. About 12 o'clock on the 18th of December, we arrived +safely in Santos, and the Frenchman then confessed to us he had felt +so fatigued on arriving at St. Paulo, from his long ride, that he +was afraid of being seriously ill. However, he recovered himself +completely in a few days, but assured us, that it would be some time +before he again accompanied us on one of our trips. + +The first question we put to the captain was: "When do you weigh +anchor?" to which he very politely replied, that as soon as he had +cleared out 200 tons of coal, and shipped 6,000 sacks of sugar, he +should be ready to set sail, and in consequence of this we had to +remain three whole weary weeks in Santos. + +We were still in Santos when we celebrated New-Year's Day, 1847, and +at last, on the 2nd of January, were lucky enough to bid the town +adieu; but did not proceed far, for in the first bay the wind fell, +and did not spring up again till after midnight. It was now Sunday, +and no true Englishman will set sail on a Sunday; we remained, +therefore, lying at anchor the whole of the 3rd of January, looking +with very melancholy feelings after two ships, whose captains, in +spite of the holiness of the day, had profited by the fresh breeze, +and sailed gaily past us. + +On the same evening we saw a vessel, which our captain affirmed was +a slaver, run into the bay. It kept as far as possible from the +fort, and cast anchor at the most outward extremity of the bay. As +the night was clear and moonlight we walked late upon deck, when, +true enough, we saw little boats laden with negroes pulling in +shore. An officer, indeed, came from the fort to inquire into the +doings of this suspicious craft; but the owner seemed to afford him +a satisfactory account, for he left the ship, and the slaves +continued during the whole night to be quietly and undisturbedly +smuggled in as before. + +On the morning of the 4th of January, as we sailed past the vessel, +we beheld a great number of the poor creatures still standing upon +the deck. Our captain inquired of the slave-dealer how many slaves +he had had on board, and we learned with astonishment that the +number amounted to 670. Much has already been said and written upon +this horrible trade; it is everywhere execrated, and looked upon as +a blot on the human race, and yet it still continues to flourish. + +This day promised to turn out a very melancholy one in many +respects. We had hardly lost sight of the slaver before one of our +own crew had nearly committed suicide. The steward, a young +mulatto, had contracted the bad habit of indulging too much in +liquor. The captain had often threatened to punish him severely, +but all to no purpose; and this morning he was so intoxicated that +the sailors were obliged to lay him in a corner of the forecastle, +where he might sleep himself sober. Suddenly, however, he leapt up, +clambered on to the forepart of the ship, and threw himself into the +sea. Luckily, it was almost a calm, the water was quite still, and +we had hopes of saving him. He soon reappeared at the side of the +vessel, and ropes were thrown him from every side. The love of life +was awakened in his breast, and caused him to grasp involuntarily at +the ropes, but he had not strength enough to hold on. He again +sank, and it was only after great exertion that the brave sailors +succeeded in rescuing him from a watery grave. Hardly had he +recovered his senses ere he endeavoured to throw himself in again, +exclaiming that he had no wish to live. The man was raving mad, and +the captain was obliged to have him bound hand and foot, and chained +to the mast. On the following day he was deprived of his office, +and degraded to the rank of subordinate to a new steward. + +5th January. Mostly calms. Our cook caught, today, a fish three +feet long, and remarkable for the manner in which it changed colour. +When it came out of the water it was a bright yellow, to which +colour it owes its name of Dorado. At the expiration of one or two +minutes the brilliant yellow changed into a light sky-blue, and +after its death its belly again turned to a beautiful light yellow, +but the back was a brownish green. It is reckoned a great delicacy, +but, for my own part, I found its flesh rather dry. + +On the 9th of January we were off the Rio Grande. In the evening +everything seemed to promise a violent storm; the captain consulted +his barometer every second almost, and issued his orders according +to its indications. Black clouds now began to drive towards us, and +the wind increased to such a pitch that the captain had all the +hatchways carefully fastened down, and the crew ready to reef the +sails at a moment's notice. At a little past 8, the hurricane broke +forth. Flash after flash of lightning darted across the horizon +from every side, and lighted the sailors in their work; the agitated +waves being illuminated with the most dazzling brilliancy. The +majestic rolling of the thunder drowned the captain's voice, and the +white foaming billows broke with such terrific force over the deck, +that it appeared as if they would carry everything with them into +the depths of the ocean. Unless there had been ropes stretched on +each side of the ship for the sailors to catch hold of, the latter +would most certainly have been washed away. Such a storm as this +affords much food for reflection. You are alone upon the boundless +ocean, far from all human help, and feel more than ever that your +life depends upon the Almighty alone. The man who, in such a +dreadful and solemn moment, can still believe there is no God, must +indeed be irretrievably struck with mental blindness. A feeling of +tranquil joy always comes over me during such great convulsions of +Nature. I very often had myself bound near the binnacle, and let the +tremendous waves break over me, in order to absorb, as it were, as +much of the spectacle before me as possible; on no occasion did I +ever feel alarmed, but always confident and resigned. + +At the expiration of four hours the storm had worn itself out, and +was succeeded by a perfect calm. + +On the 10th of January we caught sight of several sea-turtles and a +whale. The latter was only a young one, about forty feet long. + +11th January. We were now off the Rio Plata, {59} and found the +temperature very perceptibly cooler. + +Up to the present time we had seen no signs of sea-tangle or +molluscae, but during the night we beheld some molluscae for the +first time, shining like stars at a great depth below the surface of +the water. + +In these latitudes the constellation of the southern cross keeps +increasing in brilliancy and beauty, though it is far from being as +wonderful as it is said to be. The stars in it, four in number, and +disposed somewhat in the following manner, **** are, it is true, +large and splendid; but they did not excite, either in myself or any +other person of our company, much more admiration than the other +constellations. + +As a general rule, many travellers exaggerate a great deal. On the +one hand, they often describe things which they have never seen +themselves, and only know from hearsay; and, on the other, they +adorn what they really have seen with a little too much imagination. + +16th January. In 37 degrees South lat. we fell in with a strong +current, running from south to north, and having a yellow streak +down the middle of it. The captain said that this streak was caused +by a shoal of small fishes. I had some water drawn up in a bucket, +and really found a few dozen living creatures, which, in my opinion, +however, belonged rather to some species of molluscae than to any +kind of fish. They were about three-quarters of an inch long, and +as transparent as the most delicate water-bubbles; they were marked +with white and light yellow spots on the forepart of their bodies, +and had a few feelers underneath. + +In the night of the 20th to 21st of January we were overtaken by a +very violent storm, which so damaged our mainmast that the captain +determined on running into some haven on the first opportunity, and +putting in a new one. For the present the old one was made fast +with cables, iron chains, and braces. + +In 43 degrees North lat. we saw the first sea-tangle. The +temperature had by this time very perceptibly decreased in warmth, +the glass often standing no higher than 59 or 63 degrees Fah. + +23rd January. We were so near Patagonia that we could distinctly +make out the outline of the coast. + +26th January. We still kept near the land. In 50 degrees South +lat. we saw the chalky mountains of Patagonia. Today we passed the +Falkland Islands, which stretched from 51 to 52 degrees South lat. +We did not see them, however, as we kept as near the land as +possible, in order not to miss the Straits of Magellan. For some +days the captain had been studying an English book, which, in his +opinion, clearly proved that the passage through the Straits of +Magellan was far less dangerous and far shorter than that round Cape +Horn. I asked him how it happened that other sailors knew nothing +of this valuable book, and why all vessels bound for the western +coast of America went round Cape Horn? He could give me no other +answer than that the book was very dear, and that that was the +reason no one bought it. {60} + +To me this bold idea of the captain's was extremely welcome. I +already pictured in my mind the six-feet tall Patagonians putting +off to us in their boats; I saw myself taking their mussels, plants, +ornaments, and weapons in exchange for coloured ribbons and +handkerchiefs; while, to render my satisfaction complete, the +captain said that he should land at Port Famine (a Patagonian haven) +to supply the injured portion of our mainmast. How thankful was I, +in secret, to the storm for having reduced our ship to her present +condition. + +Too soon, however, were all my flattering hopes and dreams +dispelled. On the 27th of January the latitude and longitude were +taken, and it was then found that the Straits of Magellan were +twenty-seven minutes (or nautical miles) behind us, but as we were +becalmed, the captain promised, in case a favourable wind should +spring up, to endeavour to return as far as the Straits. + +I placed no more confidence in this promise, and I was right. About +noon a scarcely perceptible breeze sprang up, which the captain, in +high spirits, pronounced a favourable one--for rounding Cape Horn. +If he had ever really intended to pass through the Straits, he would +only have had to cruise about for a few hours, for the wind soon +changed and blew directly in the desired direction. + +28th January. We were constantly so near Terra del Fuego that we +could make out every bush with the naked eye. We could have reached +the land in an hour, without retarding our voyage in the least, for +we were frequently becalmed; but the captain would not consent, as +the wind might spring up every instant. + +The coast appeared rather steep, but not high; the foreground was +composed of meagre pasture alternating with tracts of sand, and in +the background were ranges of woody hills, beyond which rose snow- +covered mountains. On the whole, the country struck me as being +much more inhabitable than the Island of Iceland, which I had +visited a year and a half previously. The temperature, too, must +here be higher, as even at sea we had 54 degrees 5' and 59 degrees +Fah. + +I saw three kinds of sea-tangle, but could only obtain a specimen of +one, resembling that which I had seen in 44 degrees South lat. The +second kind was not very different, and it was only the third that +had pointed leaves, several of which together formed a sort of fan +several feet long and broad. + +On the 30th of January we passed very near the Staten Islands, lying +between 56 and 57 degrees South lat. They are composed of bare high +mountains, and separated from Terra del Fuego by an arm of the sea, +called Le Maire, only seven miles long and about the same distance +across. + +The captain told us, seaman-like, that on one occasion of his +sailing through these Straits, his ship had got into a strong +current, and regularly danced, turning round during the passage at +least a thousand times! I had already lost a great deal of +confidence in the captain's tales, but I kept my eye steadily fixed +upon a Hamburgh brig, that happened to be sailing ahead, to see +whether she would dance; but neither she nor our own bark was so +obliging. Neither vessels turned even once, and the only +circumstance worthy of remark was the heaving and foaming of the +waves in the Strait, while at both ends the sea lay majestically +calm before our eyes. We had passed the Strait in an hour, and I +took the liberty of asking the captain why our ship had not danced, +to which he replied that it was because we had had both wind and +current with us. It is, perhaps, possible that under other +circumstances the vessel might have turned round once or twice, but +I strongly doubt its doing so a thousand times. This was, however, +a favourite number with our worthy captain. One of the gentlemen +once asked him some question about the first London hotels, and was +told that it was impossible to remember their names, as there were +above a thousand of the first class. + +Near the Strait Le Maire begins, in the opinion of seamen, the +dangerous part of the passage round Cape Horn, and ends off the +Straits of Magellan. Immediately we entered it we were greeted with +two most violent bursts of wind, each of which lasted about half an +hour; they came from the neighbouring icy chasms in the mountains of +Terra del Fuego, and split two sails, and broke the great studding +sail-yard, although the sailors were numerous and quick. The +distance from the end of the Strait Le Maire to the extreme point of +the Cape is calculated to be not more than seventy miles, and yet +this trifling passage cost us three days. + +At last, on the 3rd of February, we were fortunate enough to reach +the southernmost point of America, so dreaded by all mariners. +Bare, pointed mountains, one of which looks like a crater that has +fallen in, form the extremity of the mighty mountain-chain, and a +magnificent group of colossal black rocks (basalt?), of all shapes +and sizes, are scattered at some distance in advance, and are +separated only by a small arm of the sea. The extreme point of Cape +Horn is 600 feet high. At this spot, according to our works on +geography, the Atlantic Ocean changes its name and assumes that of +the Pacific. Sailors, however, do not give it the latter +designation before reaching the Straits of Magellan, as up to this +point the sea is continually stormy and agitated, as we learned to +our cost, being driven by violent storms as far back as 60 degrees +South lat. Besides this, we lost our top-mast, which was broken +off, and which, in spite of the heavy sea, had to be replaced; the +vessel, meanwhile, being so tossed about, that we were often unable +to take our meals at the table, but were obliged to squat down upon +the ground, and hold our plates in our hands. On one of these fine +days the steward stumbled with the coffee-pot, and deluged me with +its burning contents. Luckily, only a small portion fell upon my +hands, so that the accident was not a very serious one. + +After battling for fourteen days with winds and waves, with rain and +cold, {62} we at last arrived off the western entrance to the +Straits of Magellan, having accomplished the most dangerous portion +of our voyage. During these fourteen days we saw very few whales or +albatrosses, and not one iceberg. + +We thought that we should now quietly pursue our way upon the placid +sea, trusting confidently in its peaceful name. For three whole +days we had nothing to complain of; but in the night of the 19th to +the 20th of February, we were overtaken by a storm worthy of the +Atlantic itself, which lasted for nearly twenty-four hours, and cost +us four sails. We suffered most damage from the tremendous waves, +which broke with such fury over the ship, that they tore up one of +the planks of the deck, and let the water into the cargo of sugar. +The deck itself was like a lake, and the portholes had to be opened +in order to get rid of the water more quickly. The water leaked in +the hold at the rate of two inches an hour. We could not light any +fire, and were obliged to content ourselves with bread and cheese +and raw ham, which we with great difficulty conveyed to our mouth as +we sat upon the ground. + +The last cask of lamp oil, too, fell a sacrifice to this storm, +having been torn from its fastenings, and broken into pieces. The +captain was very apprehensive of not having enough oil to light the +compass till we arrived at Valparaiso; and all the lamps on the ship +were, in consequence, replaced by candles, and the small quantity of +oil remaining kept for the compass. In spite of all these +annoyances, we kept up our spirits, and even, during the storm, we +could scarcely refrain from laughing at the comical positions we all +fell into whenever we attempted to stand up. + +The remainder of the voyage to Valparaiso was calm, but excessively +disagreeable. The captain wished to present a magnificent +appearance on arriving, so that the good people might believe that +wind and waves could not injure his fine vessel. He had the whole +ship painted from top to bottom with oil colours; even the little +doors in the cabins were not spared this infliction. Not content +with creating a most horrible disturbance over our heads, the +carpenter invaded even our cabins, filling all our things with +sawdust and dirt, so that we poor passengers had not a dry or quiet +place of refuge in the whole ship. Just as much as we had been +pleased with Captain Bell's politeness during all the previous part +of the voyage, were we indignant at his behaviour during the last +five or six days. But we could offer no resistance, for the captain +is an autocrat on board his own ship, knowing neither a constitution +nor any other limit to his despotic power. + +At 6 o'clock in the morning of the 2nd of March, we ran into the +port of Valparaiso. + + + +CHAPTER VI. ARRIVAL AND RESIDENCE IN VALPARAISO. + + + +APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN--PUBLIC BUILDINGS--A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE LOWER CLASSES--THE EATING-HOUSES OF +POLANEA--THE CHERUB (ANGELITO)--THE RAILROAD--GOLD AND SILVER MINES. + +The appearance of Valparaiso is dull and monotonous. The town is +laid out in two long streets at the foot of dreary hills, which look +like gigantic masses of sand, but which really consist of large +rocks covered with thin layers of earth and sand. On some of these +hills are houses, and on one of them is the churchyard, which, +combined with the wooden church towers, built in the Spanish style, +relieves, in a slight degree, the wearisome uniformity of the +prospect. Not less astounding than the deserted look of the port, +was the miserably wretched landing-place, which is composed of a +high wooden quay, about 100 feet long, stretching out into the sea, +with narrow steps, like ladders, against the side. It was a most +pitiable sight to see a lady attempting to go up or down: all +persons who were in the least weak or awkward, had to be let down +with ropes. + +The two principal streets are tolerably broad, and very much +frequented, especially by horsemen. Every Chilian is born a +horseman; and some of their horses are such fine animals, that you +involuntarily stop to admire their proud action, their noble +bearing, and the nice symmetry of their limbs. + +The stirrups are curiously formed, consisting of long, heavy pieces +of wood, hollowed out, and into which the rider places the tips of +his feet. The spurs are remarkably large, and are often about four +inches in diameter. + +The houses are constructed completely in the European style, with +flat Italian roofs. The more ancient buildings have only a ground +floor, and are small and ugly, while most of the modern ones have a +spacious and handsome first floor. The interior, too, of the latter +is generally very tasty. Large steps conduct into a lofty well- +ventilated entrance-hall on the first floor, from which the visitor +passes, through large glass doors, into the drawing-room and other +apartments. The drawing-room is the pride, not only of every +European who has settled in the country, but also of the Chilians, +who often spend very large sums in the decorations. Heavy carpets +cover all the floor; rich tapestry hangs against the walls; +furniture and mirrors of the most costly description are procured +from Europe; and on the tables are strewed magnificent albums, +adorned with the most artistic engravings. The elegant fire-places, +however, convinced me that the winters here are not as mild as the +inhabitants would fain have had me believe. + +Of all the public buildings, the Theatre and the Exchange are the +finest. The interior of the former is very neat, and contains a +roomy pit and two galleries, portioned off as boxes. The +inhabitants of the town patronise the theatre a great deal, but not +so much on account of the Italian operas played there, as for the +sake of possessing a common place of meeting. The ladies always +come in full dress, and mutual visits are made in the boxes, all of +which are very spacious, and beautifully furnished with mirrors, +carpets, sofas, and chairs. + +The second fine building, the Exchange, comprises a good-sized, +cheerful hall, with convenient rooms adjoining. From the hall there +is a pleasant view over the town and sea. The building belonging to +the "German Club" contains some fine apartments, with reading and +card rooms. + +The only thing that pleased me about the churches were the towers, +which consist of two or three octagons, placed one above the other, +and each one supported by eight columns. They are composed of wood, +the altars and pillars of the nave being of the same material. The +nave itself presents rather a poor and naked appearance, occasioned +in a great degree by the absence of sittings. The men stand, and +the women bring with them little carpets, which they spread before +them, and on which they either kneel or sit. Ladies in easy +circumstances have their carpets brought by their maids. The +cathedral is called La Matriza. + +The public promenades of Valparaiso are not very pleasant, as most +of the side-walks and roads are covered almost a foot deep with sand +and dust, which the slightest breath of wind is sufficient to raise +in thick clouds. After 10 o'clock in the morning, when the sea- +breeze begins blowing, the whole town is very often enveloped by it. +A great many persons are said to die here from diseases of the chest +and lungs. The most frequented places of resort are Polanka and the +lighthouse. Near the latter, especially, the prospect is very +beautiful, extending, as it does, on a clear day, as far as some of +the majestic snow-covered spurs of the Andes. + +The streets, as I have already mentioned, are tolerably lively: +peculiar omnibuses and cabriolets traverse them frequently. The +fare from one end of the town to the other is one real (2.5d.) +There are also a great number of asses, mostly employed in carrying +water and provisions. + +The lower classes are remarkably ugly. The Chilians have a +yellowish brown complexion, thick black hair, most unpleasant +features, and such a peculiarly repulsive cast of countenance, that +any physiognomist would straightway pronounce them to be robbers or +pickpockets at the least. Captain Bell had told me a great deal of +the extraordinary honesty of these people; and, in his usual +exaggerated manner, assured us that a person might leave a purse of +gold lying in the street, with the certainty of finding it the next +day on the same spot; but, in spite of this, I must frankly confess, +that for my own part, I should be rather fearful of meeting these +honest creatures, even by day, in a lonely spot, with the money in +my pocket. + +I had subsequently opportunities of convincing myself of the +fallaciousness of the captain's opinion, for I often met with +convicts, chained together, and employed in the public buildings and +cleaning the roads. The windows and doors, too, are secured with +bolts and bars in a manner almost unknown in any town of Europe. At +night, in all the streets, and on all the hills which are inhabited, +are parties of police, who call out to one another in exactly the +same manner that the advanced posts do during a campaign. Mounted +patrols also traverse the town in every direction, and persons +returning alone from the theatre or from a party, often engage their +services to conduct them home. Burglariously entering a house is +punished with death. All these precautions do not, most decidedly, +argue much for the honesty of the people. + +I will take this opportunity of mentioning a scene, of which I was +myself an eye-witness, as it happened before my window. A little +boy was carrying a number of plates and dishes on a board, when the +latter unluckily slipped from his grasp, and all the crockery lay in +fragments at his feet. At first, the poor fellow was so frightened +that he stood like a column, gazing with a fixed look at the pieces, +and then began to cry most bitterly. The passers-by stopped, it is +true, to look at the unfortunate child, but did not evince the least +compassion; they laughed, and went on. In any other place, they +would have raised a little subscription, or at least pitied and +consoled him, but certainly would not have seen anything to laugh +at. The circumstance is of itself a mere trifle, but it is exactly +by such trifles that we are often enabled to form a true estimate of +people's real characters. + +Another adventure, also, but of quite a different and most horrible +kind, happened during my stay in Valparaiso. + +As I have already remarked, it is the custom here, as well as in +many countries of Europe, to sentence criminals to hard labour on +public works. One of the convicts endeavoured to bribe his gaoler +to let him escape, and so far succeeded that the latter promised on +his paying an ounce (17 Spanish dollars--3 pounds 8s.) to give him +an opportunity for flight. The prisoners are allowed every morning +and afternoon to receive the visits of their friends and relations, +and likewise to accept provisions from them. The wife of the +convict in question profited by this regulation to bring her husband +the necessary money; and on receiving this, the gaoler arranged +matters so that on the next morning the convict was not fastened to +the same chain with a fellow-criminal, as is usually the case, but +could walk alone, and thus easily get clear off, more especially as +the spot in which they worked was a very lonely one. + +The whole affair was very cunningly arranged, but either the gaoler +changed his mind, or, perhaps, from the beginning had intended to +act as he did--he fired at the fugitive, and shot him dead. + +It is very seldom that any pure descendants of the original +inhabitants are to be seen; we met with only two. They struck me as +very similar to the Puris of Brazil, except that they have not such +small ugly-shaped eyes. In this country there are no slaves. + +The dress of the Chilians is quite in the European taste, especially +as regards the women. The only difference with the men is that, +instead of a coat, they frequently wear the Poncho, which is +composed of two pieces of cloth or merino, each about one ell broad +and two ells long. The two pieces are sewn together, with the +exception of an opening in the middle for the head to pass through; +the whole garment reaches down to the hips, and resembles a square +cape. The Poncho is worn of all colours, green, blue, bright red, +etc., and looks very handsome, especially when embroidered all round +with coloured silk, which is the case when the wearer is opulent. +In the streets, the women invariably wear large scarfs, which they +draw over their heads in church. + +My intention, on coming to Chili, was to stop for a few weeks in +order to have time for an excursion to the capital, Santiago, and +after that to proceed to China, as I had been told in Rio Janeiro +that there was a ship from Valparaiso to China every month. +Unfortunately this was not the case. I found that vessels bound to +that country were very seldom to be met with, but that there +happened to be one at that moment, which would sail in five or six +days. I was generally advised not to lose the opportunity, but +rather to abandon my design of visiting Santiago. I reflected for a +little, and agreed to do so, although with a heavy heart; and in +order to avoid all disappointment, immediately went to the captain, +who offered to take me for 200 Spanish dollars (40 pounds). I +agreed, and had five days left, which I determined to spend in +carefully examining Valparaiso and its environs. I should have had +plenty of time to pay Santiago a flying visit, since it is only 130 +miles from Valparaiso, but the expenses would have been very heavy, +as there is no public conveyance, and consequently I should have +been obliged to hire a carriage for myself. Besides this, I should +have derived but little satisfaction from the mere superficial +impressions which would have been all I could have obtained of +either town. + +I contented myself, therefore, with Valparaiso alone. I toiled +industriously up the surrounding hills and mountains, visited the +huts of the lower classes, witnessed their national dances, etc., +determined that here at least I would become acquainted with +everything. + +On some of the hills, especially on the Serra Allegri, there are the +most lovely country-houses, with elegant gardens, and a most +beautiful view over the sea. The prospect inland is not so fine, as +chains of tall, naked, ugly mountains rise up behind the hills, and +completely shut in the scene. + +The huts of the poor people are miserably bad, being mostly built of +clay and wood, and threatening to fall down every moment. I hardly +ventured to enter them, thinking that the interior was of a piece +with the exterior, and was consequently astonished at seeing not +only good beds, chairs, and tables, but very often elegant little +altars adorned with flowers. The inmates, too, were far from being +badly dressed, and the linen hung out before many of these hovels +struck me as superior to much that I had seen at the windows of some +of the most elegant houses situated in the principal streets of the +towns of Sicily. + +A very good idea of the manners and customs of the people may be +easily obtained by strolling, on Sundays and fete days, near +Polanka, and visiting the eating-houses. + +I will introduce my reader to one of these places. In one corner, +on the ground, burns a fierce fire, surrounded by innumerable pots +and pans, between which are wooden spits with beef and pork, +simmering and roasting in the most enticing manner. An ungainly +wooden framework, with a long broad plank on it, occupies the middle +of the room, and is covered with a cloth whose original colour it +would be an impossibility to determine. This is the table at which +the guests sit. During the dinner itself the old patriarchal +customs are observed, with this difference, that not only do all the +guests eat out of one dish, but that all the eatables are served up +in one, and one only. Beans and rice, potatoes and roast beef, +Paradise apples and onions, etc., etc., lie quietly side by side, +and are devoured in the deepest silence. At the end of the repast, +a goblet, filled with wine, or sometimes merely water, is passed +from hand to hand, and after this had gone round, the company begin +to talk. In the evening dancing is vigorously pursued to the music +of a guitar; unfortunately, it was Lent during my visit, when all +public amusements are prohibited. The people themselves, however, +were not so particular, and were only too ready, for a few reaux, to +go through the Sammaquecca and Refolosa--the national dances of the +country. I had soon seen sufficient; the gestures and movements of +the dancers were beyond all description unbecoming, and I could but +pity the children, whose natural modesty cannot fail to be nipped in +the bud by witnessing the performance of these dances. + +I was equally displeased with a remarkable custom prevalent here, in +accordance with which the death of a little child is celebrated by +its parents as a grand festival. They name the deceased child an +angelito, (little angel), and adorn it in every possible way. Its +eyes are not closed, but, on the contrary, opened as wide as +possible, and its cheeks are painted red; it is then dressed out in +the finest clothes, crowned with flowers, and placed in a little +chair in a kind of niche, which also is ornamented with flowers. +The relations and neighbours then come and wish the parents joy at +possessing such an angel; and, during the first night, the parents, +relations, and friends execute the wildest dances, and feast in the +most joyous fashion before the angelito. I heard that in the +country it was not unusual for the parents to carry the little +coffin to the churchyard themselves, followed by the relations with +the brandy bottle in their hands, and giving vent to their joy in +the most outrageous manner. + +A merchant told me that one of his friends, who holds a judicial +appointment, had, a short time previous, been called to decide a +curious case. A grave-digger was carrying one of these deceased +angels to the churchyard, when he stept into a tavern to take a +dram. The landlord inquired what he had got under his poncho, and +on learning that it was an angelito, offered him two reaux for it. +The gravedigger consented; the landlord quickly arranged a niche +with flowers in the drinking-room, and then hastened to inform the +whole neighbourhood what a treasure he had got. They all came, +admired the little angel, and drank and feasted in its honour. But +the parents also soon heard of it, hurried down to the tavern, took +away their child, and had the landlord brought before the +magistrate. On hearing the case, the latter could scarcely restrain +from laughing, but arranged the matter amicably, as such a crime was +not mentioned in the statute book. + +The manner in which patients are conveyed to the hospital here is +very remarkable. They are placed upon a simple wooden armchair, +with one band fastened in front of them to prevent their falling +off, and another beneath for them to place their feet on--a most +horrible sight when the sick person is so weak that he can no longer +hold himself in an upright posture. + +I was not a little astonished on hearing that, in this country, +where there is yet no post, or, indeed, any regular means of +conveyance from one place to another, that a railroad was about +being constructed from here to Santiago. The work has been +undertaken by an English company, and the necessary measurements +already begun. As the localities are very mountainous, the railroad +will have to make considerable windings, in order to profit by the +level tracts, and this will occasion an enormous outlay, quite out +of proportion to the present state of trade or the amount of +passenger traffic. At present, there are not more than two or three +vehicles a day from one place to the other, and if by chance ten or +fifteen passengers come from Santiago to Valparaiso, the thing is +talked of over the whole town. This has given rise to the belief +that the construction of a railroad has merely been seized on as an +excuse, in order to enable those concerned to search about the +country undisturbed for gold and silver. + +Persons discovering mines are highly favoured, and have full right +of property to their discovery, being obliged merely to notify the +same to the government. This licence is pushed to such an extent, +that if, for instance, a person can advance any plausible grounds +for asserting that he has found a mine in a particular spot, such as +under a church or house, etc., he is at liberty to have either +pulled down, provided he is rich enough to pay for the damage done. + +About fifteen years ago, a donkey driver accidentally hit upon a +productive silver mine. He was driving several asses over the +mountain, when one of them ran away. He seized a stone, and was +about to throw it after the animal, but stumbled and fell to the +ground, while the stone escaped from his grasp, and rolled away. +Rising in a great passion, he snatched a second from the earth, and +had drawn his arm to throw the stone, when he was struck by its +uncommon weight. He looked at it more closely, and perceived that +it was streaked with rich veins of pure silver. He preserved the +stone as a treasure, marked the spot, drove his asses home, and then +communicated his important discovery to one of his friends, who was +a miner. Both of them then returned to the place, which the miner +examined, and pronounced the soil full of precious ore. Nothing was +now wanting save capital to carry on their operations. This they +procured by taking the miner's employer into partnership, and in a +few years all three were rich men. + +The six days had now elapsed, and the captain sent me a message to +be on board with my bag and baggage the next day, as he intended +putting out to sea in the evening; but on the morning of his +intended departure, my evil genius conducted a French man-of-war +into the harbour. Little imagining that this was destined to +overturn all my plans, I proceeded very tranquilly to the landing- +place, where I met the captain hastening to meet me, with a long +story about his half-cargo, and the necessity he was under of +completing his freight with provisions for the use of the French +garrison at Tahiti, and so forth: in a word, the end of the matter +was, that I was informed we should have to stop another five days. + +In the first burst of my disappointment, I paid a visit to the +Sardinian Consul, Herr Bayerbach, and told him of the position in +which I was placed. He consoled me, in a most kind and gentlemanly +manner, as well as he could; and on learning that I had already +taken up my quarters on board, insisted on my occupying a chamber in +his country-house in the Serra Allegri. Besides this, he introduced +me to several families, where I passed many very pleasant hours, and +had the opportunity of inspecting some excellent collections of +mussel-shells and insects. + +Our departure was again deferred from day to day; so that, although, +in this manner, I spent fifteen days in Chili, I saw nothing more of +it than Valparaiso and its immediate neighbourhood. + +As Valparaiso is situated to the south of the Equator, and, as is +well known, the seasons of the southern hemisphere are exactly the +contrary of those of the northern, it was now autumn. I saw (34 +degrees South latitude) almost the same kinds of fruits and +vegetables as those we have in Germany, especially grapes and +melons. The apples and pears were not so good nor so abundant as +with us. + +In conclusion, I will here give a list of the prices which +travellers have to pay for certain things:-- + +A room that is at all decent in a private house costs four or five +reaux (2s.) a day; the table d'hote a piaster (4s.); but washing is +more expensive than anything else, on account of the great scarcity +of water, for every article, large or small, costs a real (6d.). A +passport, too, is excessively dear, being charged eight Spanish +dollars (1 pounds 12s.). + + + +CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE FROM VALPARAISO TO CANTON VIA TAHITI. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM VALPARAISO--TAHITI--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE +PEOPLE--FETE AND BALL IN HONOUR OF LOUIS PHILIPPE--EXCURSIONS--A +TAHITIAN DINNER--THE LAKE VAIHIRIA--THE DEFILE OF FANTAUA AND THE +DIADEM--DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL IN CHINA. + +On the 17th of March, Captain Van Wyk Jurianse sent me word that his +ship was ready for sea, and that he should set sail the next +morning. The news was very unwelcome to me, as, for the last two +days, I had been suffering from English cholera, which on board +ship, where the patient cannot procure meat broth or any other light +nourishment, and where he is always more exposed to the sudden +changes of the weather than he is on shore, is very apt to be +attended with grave results. I did not, however, wish to miss the +opportunity of visiting China, knowing how rarely it occurred, nor +was I desirous of losing the two hundred dollars (40 pounds) already +paid for my passage, and I therefore went on board, trusting in my +good luck, which had never forsaken me on my travels. + +During the first few days, I endeavoured to master my illness by +observing a strict diet, and abstaining from almost everything, but +to no purpose. I still continued to suffer, until I luckily thought +of using salt-water baths. I took them in a large tub, in which I +remained a quarter of an hour. After the second bath, I felt much +better, and after the sixth, I was completely recovered. I merely +mention this malady, to which I was very subject in warm climates, +that I may have the opportunity of remarking, that sea-baths or +cooling drinks, such as buttermilk, sour milk, sherbet, orangeade, +etc., are very efficacious remedies. + +The ship in which I made my present voyage, was the Dutch barque +Lootpuit, a fine, strong vessel, quite remarkable for its +cleanliness. The table was pretty good, too, with the exception of +a few Dutch dishes, and a superfluity of onions. To these, which +played a prominent part in everything that was served up, I really +could not accustom myself, and felt greatly delighted that a large +quantity of this noble production of the vegetable kingdom became +spoilt during the voyage. + +The captain was a polite and kind man, and the mates and sailors +were also civil and obliging. In fact, as a general rule, in every +ship that I embarked in, I was far from finding seamen so rough and +uncivil as travellers often represent them to be. Their manners are +certainly not the most polished in the world, neither are they +extraordinarily attentive or delicate, but their hearts and +dispositions are mostly good. + +After three days' sailing, we saw, on the 21st March, the island of +St. Felix, and on the morning following, St. Ambrosio. They both +consist of naked, inhospitable masses of rock, and serve at most as +resting places for a few gulls. + +We were now within the tropics, but found the heat greatly moderated +by the trade wind, and only unbearable in the cabin. + +For nearly a month did we now sail on, without the slightest +interruption, free from storms, with the same monotonous prospect of +sky and water before us, until, on the 19th of April, we reached the +Archipelago of the Society Islands. This Archipelago, stretching +from 130 to 140 degrees longitude, is very dangerous, as most of the +islands composing it scarcely rise above the surface of the water; +in fact, to make out David Clark's Island, which was only twelve +miles distant, the captain was obliged to mount to the shrouds. + +During the night of the 21st to the 22nd of April we were overtaken +by a sudden and violent storm, accompanied by heavy thunder; this +storm our captain termed a thunder-gust. While it lasted flashes of +lightning frequently played around the mast-top, occasioned by +electricity. They generally flutter for two or three minutes about +the most elevated point of any object, and then disappear. + +The night of the 22nd to the 23rd of April was a very dangerous one; +even the captain said so. We had to pass several of the low islands +in dark rainy weather, which completely concealed the moon from us. +About midnight our position was rendered worse by the springing up +of a strong wind, which, together with incessant flashes of +lightning, caused us to expect another squall; luckily, however, +morning broke, and we escaped both the storm and the islands. + +In the course of the day we passed the Bice Islands, and two days +later, on the 25th of April, we beheld one of the Society Islands, +Maithia. + +On the following morning, being the thirty-ninth of our voyage, we +came in sight of Tahiti, and the island opposite to it, Emao, also +called Moreo. The entrance into Papeiti, the port of Tahiti, is +exceedingly dangerous; it is surrounded by reefs of coral as by a +fortress, while wild and foaming breakers, rolling on every side, +leave but a small place open through which a vessel can steer. + +A pilot came out to meet us, and, although the wind was so +unfavourable that the sails had to be trimmed every instant, steered +us safely into port. Afterwards, when we had landed, we were +congratulated heartily on our good fortune; every one had watched +our course with the greatest anxiety, and, at the last turn the ship +took, expected to see her strike upon a coral reef. This misfortune +had happened to a French man-of-war, that at the period of our +arrival had been lying at anchor for some months, engaged in +repairing the damage done. + +Before we could come to an anchor we were surrounded by half-a-dozen +pirogues, or boats, manned by Indians, who climbed up from all sides +upon the deck to offer us fruit and shell-fish, but not as formerly +for red rags or glass beads--such golden times for travellers are +over. They demanded money, and were as grasping and cunning in +their dealings as the most civilized Europeans. I offered one of +them a small bronze ring; he took it, smelt it, shook his head, and +gave me to understand that it was not gold. He remarked another +ring on my finger, and seizing hold of my hand, smelt this second +ring as well, then twisted his face into a friendly smile, and made +signs for me to give him the ornament in question. I afterwards had +frequent opportunities of remarking that the natives of these +islands have the power of distinguishing between pure and +counterfeit gold by the smell. + +Some years ago the island of Tahiti was under the protection of the +English, but at present it is under that of the French. It had long +been a subject of dispute between the two nations, until a friendly +understanding was at last come to in November, 1846. Queen Pomare, +who had fled to another island, had returned to Papeiti five weeks +before my arrival. She resides in a four-roomed house, and dines +daily, with her family, at the governor's table. The French +government is having a handsome house built for her use, and allows +her a pension of 25,000 francs per annum (1 pounds,041 13s. 4d.). +No stranger is allowed to visit her without the governor's +permission, but this is easily obtained. + +Papeiti was full of French troops, and several men-of-war were lying +at anchor. + +The place contains three or four thousand inhabitants, and consists +of a row of small wooden houses, skirting the harbour, and separated +by small gardens. In the immediate background is a fine wood, with +a number of huts scattered about in different parts of it. + +The principal buildings are--the governor's house, the French +magazines, the military bakehouse, the barracks, and the queen's +house, which however is not quite completed. Besides these, a +number of small wooden houses were in the course of erection, the +want of them being greatly felt; at the time of my visit even +officers of high rank were obliged to be contented with the most +wretched huts. + +I went from hut to hut in the hopes of being able to obtain some +small room or other; but in vain, all were already occupied. I was +at last obliged to be satisfied with a small piece of ground, which +I found at a carpenter's, whose room was already inhabited by four +different individuals. I was shown a place behind the door, exactly +six feet long and four broad. There was no flooring but the earth +itself; the walls were composed of wicker work; a bed was quite out +of the question, and yet for this accommodation I was obliged to pay +one florin and thirty kreutzers a-week (about 7s.) + +The residence or hut of an Indian consists simply of a roof of palm- +trees, supported on a number of poles, with sometimes the addition +of walls formed of wicker-work. Each hut contains only one room, +from twenty to fifty feet long, and from ten to thirty feet broad, +and is frequently occupied by several families at the same time. +The furniture is composed of finely woven straw mats, a few +coverlids, and two or three wooden chests and stools; the last, +however, are reckoned articles of luxury. Cooking utensils are not +wanted, as the cookery of the Indians does not include soups or +sauces, their provisions being simply roasted between hot stones. +All they require is a knife, and a cocoa shell for water. + +Before their huts, or on the shore, lie their piroques, formed of +the trunks of trees hollowed out, and so narrow, small, and shallow, +that they would constantly be overturning, if there were not on one +side five or six sticks, each about a foot long, fastened by a +cross-bar to preserve the equilibrium. In spite of this, however, +one of these boats is very easily upset, unless a person steps in +very cautiously. When, on one occasion, I proceeded in a piroque to +the ship, the good-hearted captain was horror-struck, and, in his +concern for my safety, even reprimanded me severely, and besought me +not to repeat the experiment a second time. + +The costume of the Indians has been, since the first settlement of +the missionaries (about fifty years ago), tolerably becoming, +especially in the neighbourhood of Papeiti. Both men and women wear +round their loins a kind of apron, made of coloured stuff, and +called a pareo; the women let it fall as low down as their ancles; +the men not farther than the calf of the leg. The latter have a +short coloured shirt underneath it, and again beneath that, large +flowing trousers. The women wear a long full blouse. Both sexes +wear flowers in their ears, which have such large holes bored in +them that the stalk can very easily be drawn through. The women, +both old and young, adorn themselves with garlands of leaves and +flowers, which they make in the most artistic and elegant manner. I +have often seen men, too, weaving the same kind of ornament. + +On grand occasions, they cast over their ordinary dress an upper +garment, called a tiputa, the cloth of which they manufacture +themselves from the bark of the bread and cocoa trees. The bark, +while still tender, is beaten between two stones, until it is as +thin as paper; it is then coloured yellow and brown. + +One Sunday I went into the meeting-house to see the people assembled +there. {73} Before entering they all laid aside their flowers, with +which they again ornamented themselves at their departure. Some of +the women had black satin blouses on, and European bonnets of an +exceedingly ancient date. It would not be easy to find a more ugly +sight than that of their plump, heavy heads and faces in these old- +fashioned bonnets. + +During the singing of the psalms there was some degree of attention, +and many of the congregation joined in very becomingly; but while +the clergyman was performing the service, I could not remark the +slightest degree of devotion in any of them; the children played, +joked, and ate, while the adults gossiped or slept; and although I +was assured that many could read and even write, I saw only two old +men who made any use of their Bibles. + +The men are a remarkably strong and vigorous race, six feet being by +no means an uncommon height amongst them. The women, likewise, are +very tall, but too muscular--they might even be termed unwieldy. +The features of the men are handsomer than those of the women. They +have beautiful teeth and fine dark eyes, but generally a large +mouth, thick lips, and an ugly nose, the cartilage being slightly +crushed when the child is born, so that the nose becomes flat and +broad. This fashion appears to be most popular with the females, +for their noses are the ugliest. Their hair is jet black and thick, +but coarse; the women and girls generally wear it plaited in two +knots. The colour of their skin is a copper-brown. All the natives +are tattooed, generally from the hips half down the legs, and +frequently this mode of ornamenting themselves is extended to the +hands, feet, or other parts of the body. The designs resemble +arabesques; they are regular and artistic in their composition, and +executed with much taste. + +That the population of this place should be so vigorous and well- +formed is the more surprising, if we reflect on their depraved and +immoral kind of life. Little girls of seven or eight years old have +their lovers of twelve or fourteen, and their parents are quite +proud of the fact. The more lovers a girl has the more she is +respected. As long as she is not married she leads a most dissolute +life, and it is said that not all the married women make the most +faithful wives possible. + +I had frequent opportunities of seeing the national dances, which +are the most unbecoming I ever beheld, although every painter would +envy me my good fortune. Let the reader picture to himself a grove +of splendid palms, and other gigantic trees of the torrid zone, with +a number of open huts, and a crowd of good-humoured islanders +assembled beneath, to greet, in their fashion, the lovely evening, +which is fast approaching. Before one of the huts a circle is +formed, and in the centre sit two herculean and half-naked natives, +beating time most vigorously on small drums. Five similar colossi +are seated before them, moving the upper parts of their bodies in +the most horrible and violent manner, and more especially the arms, +hands, and fingers; the latter they have the power of moving in +every separate joint. I imagine, that by these gestures they +desired to represent how they pursue their enemy, ridicule his +cowardice, rejoice at their victory, and so forth. During all this +time they howl continually in a most discordant manner, and make the +most hideous faces. At the commencement, the men appear alone upon +the scene of action, but after a short time two female forms dart +forward from among the spectators, and dance and rave like two +maniacs; the more unbecoming, bold, and indecent their gestures, the +greater the applause. The whole affair does not, at most, last +longer than two minutes, and the pause before another dance is +commenced not much longer. An evening's amusement of this +description often lasts for hours. The younger members of society +very seldom take any part in the dances. + +It is a great question whether the immorality of these islanders has +been lessened by French civilization. From my own observations, as +well as from what I was told by persons well informed on the +subject, I should say that this has not yet been the case, and that, +for the present, there is but little hope of its being so: while, +on the other side, the natives have acquired a number of useless +wants, in consequence of which, the greed for gold has been +fearfully awakened in their breasts. As they are naturally very +lazy, and above all things disinclined to work, they have made the +female portion of the community the means of gaining money. +Parents, brothers, and even husbands, offer to their foreign masters +those belonging to them, while the women themselves offer no +opposition, as in this manner they can obtain the means for their +own display, and money for their relations without trouble. Every +officer's house is the rendezvous of several native beauties, who go +out and in at every hour of the day. Even abroad they are not +particular; they will accompany any man without the least +hesitation, and no gentleman ever refuses a conductress of this +description. + +As a female of an advanced age, I may be allowed to make a few +observations upon such a state of things, and I frankly own that, +although I have travelled much and seen a great deal, I never +witnessed such shameful scenes of public depravity. + +As a proof of what I assert, I will mention a little affair which +happened one day before my hut. + +Four fat graces were squatted on the ground smoking tobacco, when an +officer, who happened to be passing, caught a glimpse of the +charming picture, rushed up at double quick pace and caught hold of +one of the beauties by the shoulder. He began by speaking softly to +her, but as his anger increased, he changed his tone to one of loud +abuse. But neither entreaties nor threats produced the slightest +effect upon the delicate creature to whom they were addressed; she +remained coolly in the same position, continuing to smoke with the +greatest indifference, and without deigning even to cast upon her +excited swain a look, far less answer him a word. He became enraged +to such a pitch, that he so far forgot himself as to loosen the +golden ear-rings from her ears, and threatened to take away all the +finery he had given her. Even this was not sufficient to rouse the +girl from her stolid calmness, and the valiant officer was, at last, +obliged to retreat from the field of battle. + +From his conversation, which was half in French and half in the +native dialect, I learned that in three months the girl had cost him +about four hundred francs in dress and jewellery. Her wishes were +satisfied, and she quietly refused to have anything more to say to +him. + +I very often heard the feeling, attachment, and kindness of this +people spoken of in terms of high praise, with which, however, I +cannot unreservedly agree. Their kindness I will not precisely +dispute; they readily invite a stranger to share their hospitality, +and even kill a pig in his honour, give him a part of their couch, +etc.; but all this costs them no trouble, and if they are offered +money in return, they take it eagerly enough, without so much as +thanking the donor. As for feeling and attachment, I should almost +be inclined to deny that they possessed them in the slightest +degree; I saw only sensuality, and none of the nobler sentiments. I +shall return to this subject when describing my journey through the +island. + +On the 1st of May I witnessed a highly interesting scene. It was +the fete of Louis Philippe, the King of the French; and the +governor, Monsieur Bruat, exerted himself to the utmost to amuse the +population of Tahiti. In the forenoon, there was a tournament on +the water, in which the French sailors were the performers. Several +boats with lusty oarsmen put out to sea. In the bows of each boat +was a kind of ladder or steps, on which stood one of the combatants +with a pole. The boats were then pulled close to one another, and +each combatant endeavoured to push his antagonist into the water. +Besides this, there was a Mat de Cocagne, with coloured shirts, +ribbons, and other trifles fluttering at the top, for whoever chose +to climb up and get them. At 12 o'clock the chiefs and principal +personages were entertained at dinner. On the grass plot before the +governor's house were heaped up various sorts of provisions, such as +salt meat, bacon, bread, baked pork, fruits, etc.; but instead of +the guests taking their places all around, as we had supposed they +would have done, the chiefs divided everything into different +portions, and each carried his share home. In the evening there +were fireworks, and a ball. + +No part of the entertainment amused me more than the ball, where I +witnessed the most startling contrasts of art and nature. Elegant +Frenchwomen side by side with their brown, awkward sisters, and the +staff officers in full uniform, in juxta-position with the half- +naked islanders. Many of the natives wore, on this occasion, broad +white trousers, with a shirt over them; but there were others who +had no other garments than the ordinary short shirt and the pareo. +One of the chiefs who appeared in this costume, and was afflicted +with Elephantiasis, {76} offered a most repulsive spectacle. + +This evening I saw Queen Pomare for the first time. She is a woman +of 36 years of age, tall and stout, but tolerably well preserved--as +a general rule, I found that the women here fade much less quickly +than in other warm climates--her face is far from ugly, and there is +a most good-natured expression round her mouth, and the lower +portion of her face. She was enveloped in a sky-blue satin gown, or +rather, sort of blouse, ornamented all round with two rows of rich +black blond. She wore large jessamine blossoms in her ears, and a +wreath of flowers in her hair, while in her hand she carried a fine +pocket handkerchief beautifully embroidered, and ornamented with +broad lace. In honour of the evening, she had forced her feet into +shoes and stockings, though on other occasions she went barefoot. +The entire costume was a present from the King of the French. + +The queen's husband, who is younger than herself, is the handsomest +man in Tahiti. The French jokingly call him the Prince Albert of +Tahiti, not only on account of his good looks, but because, like +Prince Albert in England, he is not named "the king," but simply, +"the queen's consort." He had on the uniform of a French general, +which became him very well; the more so, that he was not in the +least embarrassed in it. The only drawback were his feet, which +were very ugly and awkward. + +Besides these two high personages, there was in the company another +crowned head, namely, King Otoume, the owner of one of the +neighbouring islands. He presented a most comical appearance, +having put on, over a pair of full but short white trousers, a +bright yellow calico coat, that most certainly had not been made by +a Parisian artiste, for it was a perfect model of what a coat ought +not to be. This monarch was barefoot. + +The queen's ladies of honour, four in number, as well as most of the +wives and daughters of the chiefs, were dressed in white muslin. +They had also flowers in their ears, and garlands in their hair. +Their behaviour and deportment were surprising, and three of the +young ladies actually danced French quadrilles with the officers, +without making a fault in the figures. I was only anxious for their +feet, as no one, save the royal couple, wore either shoes or +stockings. Some of the old women had arrayed themselves in European +bonnets, while the young ones brought their children, even the +youngest, with them, and, to quiet the latter, suckled them without +ceremony before the company. + +Before supper was announced, the queen disappeared in an adjoining +room to smoke a cigar or two, while her husband passed the time in +playing billiards. + +At table I was seated between Prince Albert of Tahiti and the +canary-coloured King Otoume. They were both sufficiently advanced +in the rules of good breeding to show me the usual civilities; that +is, to fill my glass with water or wine, to hand me the various +dishes, and so on; but it was evident that they were at great +trouble to catch the tone of European society. Some of the guests, +however, forgot their parts now and then: the queen, for instance, +asked, during the dessert, for a second plate, which she filled with +sweetmeats, and ordered to be put on one side for her to take home +with her. Others had to be prevented from indulging too much in the +generous champagne; but, on the whole, the entertainment passed off +in a becoming and good-humoured manner. + +I subsequently dined with the royal family several times at the +governor's. The queen then appeared in the national costume, with +the coloured pareo and chemise, as did also her husband. Both were +barefoot. The heir apparent, a boy of nine years old, is affianced +to the daughter of a neighbouring king. The bride, who is a few +years older than the prince, is being educated at the court of Queen +Pomare, and instructed in the Christian religion, and the English +and Tahitian languages. + +The arrangements of the queen's residence are exceedingly simple. +For the present, until the stone house which is being built for her +by the French government is completed, she lives in a wooden one +containing four rooms, and partly furnished with European furniture. + +As peace was now declared in Tahiti, there was no obstacle to my +making a journey through the whole island. I had obtained a +fortnight's leave of absence from the captain, and was desirous of +devoting this time to a trip. I imagined that I should have been +able to join one or other of the officers, who are often obliged to +journey through the island on affairs connected with the government. +To my great surprise I found, however, that they had all some +extraordinary reason why it was impossible for me to accompany them +at that particular time. I was at a loss to account for this +incivility, until one of the officers themselves told me the answer +to the riddle, which was this: every gentleman always travelled +with his mistress. + +Monsieur ---, {78} who let me into the secret, offered to take me +with him to Papara, where he resided; but even he did not travel +alone, as, besides his mistress, Tati, the principal chief of the +island, and his family, accompanied him. This chief had come to +Papeiti to be present at the fete of the 1st of May. + +On the 4th of May we put off to sea in a boat, for the purpose of +coasting round to Papara, forty-two miles distant. I found the +chief Tati to be a lively old man nearly ninety years of age, who +remembered perfectly the second landing of the celebrated +circumnavigator of the globe, Captain Cook. His father was, at that +period, the principal chief, and had concluded a friendly alliance +with Cook, and, according to the custom then prevalent at Tahiti, +had changed names with him. + +Tati enjoys from the French government a yearly pension of 6,000 +francs (240 pounds), which, after his death, will fall to his eldest +son. + +He had with him his young wife and five of his sons; the former was +twenty-three years old, and the ages of the latter varied from +twelve to eighteen. The children were all the offspring of other +marriages, this being his fifth wife. + +As we had not left Papeiti till nearly noon, and as the sun sets +soon after six o'clock, and the passage between the numberless rocks +is highly dangerous, we landed at Paya (22 miles), where a sixth son +of Tati's ruled as chief. + +The island is intersected in all directions by noble mountains, the +loftiest of which, the Oroena, is 6,200 feet high. In the middle of +the island the mountains separate, and a most remarkable mass of +rock raises itself from the midst of them. It has the form of a +diadem with a number of points, and it is to this circumstance that +it owes its name. Around the mountain range winds a forest girdle, +from four to six hundred paces broad; it is inhabited, and contains +the most delicious fruit. Nowhere did I ever eat such bread-fruit, +mangoes, oranges, and guavas, as I did here. As for cocoa-nuts, the +natives are so extravagant with them, that they generally merely +drink the water they contain, and then throw away the shell and the +fruit. In the mountains and ravines there are a great quantity of +plantains, a kind of banana, which are not commonly eaten, however, +without being roasted. The huts of the natives lie scattered here +and there along the shore; it is very seldom that a dozen of these +huts are seen together. + +The bread-fruit is somewhat similar in shape to a water-melon, and +weighs from four to six pounds. The outside is green, and rather +rough and thin. The natives scrape it with mussel-shells, and then +split the fruit up long ways into two portions, which they roast +between two heated stones. The taste is delicious; it is finer than +that of potatoes, and so like bread that the latter may be dispensed +with without any inconvenience. The South Sea Islands are the real +home of the fruit. It is true that it grows in other parts of the +tropics, but it is very different from that produced here. In +Brazil, for instance, where the people call it monkeys' bread, it +weighs from five to thirty pounds, and is full inside of kernels, +which are taken out and eaten when the fruit is roasted. These +kernels taste like chestnuts. + +The mango is a fruit resembling an apple, and of the size of a man's +fist; both the rind and the fruit itself are yellow. It tastes a +little like turpentine, but loses this taste more and more the riper +it gets. This fruit is of the best description; it is full and +juicy, and has a long, broad kernel in the middle. The bread and +mango trees grow to a great height and circumference. The leaves of +the former are about three feet long, a foot and a-half broad, and +deeply serrated; while those of the latter are not much larger than +the leaves of our own apple-trees. + +Before reaching Paya, we passed several interesting places, among +which may be mentioned Foar, a small French fort, situated upon a +hill. Near Taipari it is necessary to pass between two rows of +dangerous breakers, called the "Devil's Entrance." The foaming +waves rose in such volume and to so great a height, that they might +almost be mistaken for walls. In the plain near Punavia is a large +fort supported by several towers, built upon the neighbouring hills. +At this point the scenery is beautiful. The mountain range breaks +here, so that the eye can follow for a long distance the windings of +a picturesque valley, with the black and lofty mountain Olofena in +the background. + +Delighted as I was, however, with the beauty of the objects around +me, I was no less pleased with those beneath. Our boat glided along +over countless shallows, where the water was as clear as crystal, so +that the smallest pebble at the bottom was distinctly visible. I +could observe groups and clusters of coloured coral and madrepore- +stone, whose magnificence challenges all description. It might be +said that there was a quantity of fairy flower and kitchen gardens +in the sea, full of gigantic flowers, blossoms, and leaves, varied +by fungi and pulse of every description, like open arabesque work, +the whole interspersed with pretty groups of rocks of every hue. +The most lovely shell-fish were clinging to these rocks, or lying +scattered on the ground, while endless shoals of variegated fish +darted in and out between them, like so many butterflies and +humming-birds. These delicate creatures were scarcely four inches +long, and surpassed in richness of colour anything I had ever seen. +Many of them were of the purest sky-blue, others a light yellow, +while some, again, that were almost transparent, were brown, green, +etc. + +On our arrival at Paya, about 6 in the evening, the young Tati had a +pig, weighing eighteen or twenty pounds, killed and cooked, after +the fashion of Tahiti, in honour of his father. A large fire was +kindled in a shallow pit, in which were a number of stones. A +quantity of bread-fruit (majore), that had been first peeled and +split into two portions with a very sharp wooden axe, was then +brought. When the fire had gone out, and the stones heated to the +requisite degree, the pig and the fruit were laid upon them, a few +other heated stones placed on the top, and the whole covered up with +green branches, dry leaves, and earth. + +During the time that the victuals were cooking, the table was laid. +A straw mat was placed upon the ground, and covered with large +leaves. For each guest there was a cocoa-nut shell, half-filled +with miti, a sourish beverage extracted from the cocoa-palm. + +In an hour and a half the victuals were dug up. The pig was neither +very artistically cooked nor very enticing, but cut up as quick as +lightning, being divided by the hand and knife into as many portions +as there were guests, and each person had his share, together with +half a bread-fruit, handed to him upon a large leaf. There was no +one at our rustic table besides the officer, his mistress, the old +Tati, his wife, and myself, as it is contrary to the custom of the +country for the host to eat with his guests, or the children with +their parents. With the exception of this ceremony, I did not +observe any other proof of love or affection between the father and +son. The old man, for instance, although ninety years of age, and +suffering besides from a violent cough, was obliged to pass the +night under nothing but a light roof, open to the weather, while his +son slept in his well-closed huts. + +On the 5th of May, we left Taipari with empty stomachs, as old Tati +was desirous of entertaining us at one of his estates about two +hours' journey distant. + +On our arrival, and as soon as the stones were heated for our meal, +several of the natives out of the neighbouring huts hastened to +profit by the opportunity to cook their provisions as well, bringing +with them fish, pieces of pork, bread-fruit, plantains, and so on. +The fish and meat were enveloped in large leaves. For our use, +besides bread-fruit and fish, there was a turtle weighing perhaps +more than twenty pounds. The repast was held in a hut, to which the +whole neighbourhood also came, and forming themselves into groups a +little on one side of us principal guests, eat the provisions they +had brought with them. Each person had a cocoa-nut shell full of +miti before him; into this he first threw every morsel and took it +out again with his hand, and then what remained of the miti was +drunk at the end of the meal. We had each of us a fresh cocoa-nut +with a hole bored in it, containing at least a pint of clear, sweet- +tasting water. This is erroneously termed by us "Milk," but it only +becomes thick and milky when the cocoa-nut is very stale, in which +condition it is never eaten in these islands. + +Tati, with his family, remained here, while we proceeded to Papara, +an hour's walk. The road was delightful, leading mostly through +thick groves of fruit-trees; but it would not suit a person with a +tendency to hydrophobia, for we were obliged to wade through more +than half a dozen streams and brooks. + +At Papara, Monsieur --- possessed some landed property, with a +little wooden four-roomed house, in which he was kind enough to give +me a lodging. + +We here heard of the death of one of Tati's sons, of which he +numbered twenty-one. He had been dead three days, and his friends +were awaiting Tati to pay the last honours to the deceased. I had +intended to make an excursion to the Lake Vaihiria, but deferred +doing so, in order to be present at the burial. On the following +morning, 6th May, I paid a visit to the hut of the deceased. +Monsieur --- gave me a new handkerchief to take with me as a +present--a relic of the old superstition which the people of this +island have introduced into Christianity. These presents are +supposed to calm the soul of the deceased. The corpse was lying in +a narrow coffin, upon a low bier, both of which were covered with a +white pall. Before the bier were hung two straw mats, on which were +spread the deceased's clothes, drinking vessels, knives, and so +forth, while on the other, lay the presents, making quite a heap, of +shirts, pareos, pieces of cloth, etc., all so new and good that they +might have served to furnish a small shop. + +Old Tati soon entered the hut, but quickly returned into the open +air, stopping only a few instants, as the corpse was already most +offensive. He sat down under a tree, and began talking very quietly +and unconcernedly with the neighbours, as if nothing had happened. +The female relatives and neighbours remained in the hut; they, too, +chatted and gossiped very contentedly, and moreover ate and smoked. +I was obliged to have the wife, children, and relations of the +deceased pointed out to me, for I was unable to recognise them by +their demeanour. In a little time, the stepmother and wife rose, +and throwing themselves on the coffin, howled for half an hour; but +it was easy to see that their grief did not come from the heart. +Their moaning was always pitched in the same monotonous key. Both +then returned with smiling faces and dry eyes to their seats, and +appeared to resume the conversation at the point at which they had +broken it off. The deceased's canoe was burnt upon the shore. + +I had seen enough, and returned to my quarters to make some +preparations for my trip to the lake the next day. The distance is +reckoned to be eighteen miles, so that the journey there and back +may be performed in two days with ease, and yet a guide had the +conscience to ask ten dollars (2 pounds) for his services. With the +assistance of old Tati, however, I procured one for three dollars +(12s.). + +Pedestrian trips are very fatiguing in Tahiti, since it is so richly +watered that the excursionist is constantly obliged to wade through +plains of sand and rivers. I was very suitably clothed for the +purpose, having got strong men's shoes, without any stockings, +trousers, and a blouse, which I had fastened up as high as my hips. +Thus equipped I began, on the 7th of May, my short journey, in +company with my guide. In the first third of my road, which lay +along the coast, I counted about thirty-two brooks which we were +obliged to walk through. We then struck off, through ravines, into +the interior of the island, first calling, however, at a hut to +obtain some refreshment. The inmates were very friendly, and gave +us some bread-fruit and fish, but very willingly accepted a small +present in exchange. + +In the interior, the fine fruit-trees disappear, and their place is +supplied by plantains, tarros, and a kind of bush, growing to the +height of twelve feet, and called Oputu (Maranta); the last, in +fact, grew so luxuriantly, that we frequently experienced the +greatest difficulty in making our way through. The tarro, which is +planted, is from two to three feet high, and has fine large leaves +and tubercles, similar to the potato, but which do not taste very +good when roasted. The plantain, or banana, is a pretty little +tree, from fifteen to twenty feet high, with leaves like those of +the palm, and a stem which is often eight inches in diameter, but is +not of wood, but cane, and very easily broken. It belongs properly +to the herbiferous species, and grows with uncommon rapidity. It +reaches its full growth the first year: in the second it bears +fruit, and then dies. It is produced from shoots, which generally +spring up near the parent tree. + +Through one mountain stream, which chafed along the ravine over a +stony bed, and in some places was exceedingly rapid, and, in +consequence of the rain that had lately fallen, was frequently more +than three feet deep, we had to wade sixty-two times. My guide +caught hold of me by the hand whenever we passed a dangerous spot, +and dragged me, often half swimming, after him. The water +constantly reached above my hips, and all idea of getting dry again +was totally out of the question. The path also became at every step +more fatiguing and dangerous. I had to clamber over rocks and +stones covered to such an extent with the foliage of the oputu that +I never knew with any degree of certainty where I was placing my +foot. I received several severe wounds on my hands and feet, and +frequently fell down on the ground, when I trusted for support to +the treacherous stem of a banana, which would break beneath my +grasp. It was really a breakneck sort of excursion, which is very +rarely made even by the officers, and certainly never by ladies. + +In two places the ravine became so narrow, that the bed of the +stream occupied its whole extent. It was here that the islanders, +during the war with the French, built stone walls five feet in +height to protect them against the enemy, in case they should have +attacked them from this side. + +In eight hours' time we had completed the eighteen miles, and +attained an elevation of 1,800 feet. The lake itself was not +visible until we stood upon its shores, as it lies in a slight +hollow; it is about 800 feet across. The surrounding scenery is the +most remarkable. The lake is so closely hemmed in by a ring of +lofty and precipitous green mountains, that there is no room even +for a footing between the water and the rocks, and its bed might be +taken for an extinguished volcano filled with water--a supposition +which gains additional force from the masses of basalt which occupy +the foreground. It is plentifully supplied with fish, one kind of +which is said to be peculiar to the locality; it is supposed that +the lake has a subterranean outlet, which as yet remains +undiscovered. + +To cross the lake, it is either necessary to swim over or trust +oneself to a dangerous kind of boat, which is prepared by the +natives in a few minutes. Being desirous of making the attempt, I +intimated this by signs to my guide. In an instant he tore off some +plantain-branches, fastened them together with long, tough grass, +laid a few leaves upon them, launched them in the water, and then +told me to take possession of this apology for a boat. I must own +that I felt rather frightened, although I did not like to say so. I +stept on board, and my guide swam behind and pushed me forward. I +made the passage to the opposite side and back without any accident, +but I was in truth rather alarmed the whole time. The boat was +small, and floated under rather than upon the water--there was +nothing I could support myself with, and every minute I expected to +fall into the lake. I would not advise any one who cannot swim ever +to follow my example. + +After I had sufficiently admired the lake and the surrounding +scenery, we retraced our way for some hundred yards, until we +reached a little spot roofed over with leaves. Here my guide +quickly made a good fire, after the Indian fashion. He took a small +piece of wood, which he cut to a fine point, and then selecting a +second piece, he made in it a narrow furrow not very deep. In this +he rubbed the pointed stick until the little particles which were +detached during the operation began to smoke. These he threw into a +quantity of dry leaves and grass which he had got together for the +purpose, and swung the whole several times round in the air, until +it burst out into flames. The entire process did not take more than +two minutes. + +For our supper, he gathered a few plantains and laid them on the +fire. I profited by the opportunity to dry my clothes, by sitting +down near the fire, and turning first one side towards it, and then +the other. Half wet through, and tolerably fatigued, I retired to +my couch of dry leaves immediately after partaking of our scanty +meal. + +It is a fortunate circumstance that in these wild and remote +districts neither men nor beasts afford the slightest grounds for +apprehension; the former are very quiet and peaceably inclined, and, +with the exception of a few wild boars, the latter are not +dangerous. The island is especially favoured; it contains no +poisonous or hurtful insects or reptiles. It is true there are a +few scorpions, but so small and harmless, that they may be handled +with impunity. The mosquitoes alone were the source of very +considerable annoyance, as they are in all southern countries. + +8th May. It began to rain very violently during the night, and in +the morning I was sorry to see that there was not much hope of its +clearing up; on the contrary, the clouds became blacker and blacker, +and collecting from all sides, like so many evil spirits, poured +down in torrents upon the innocent earth. Nevertheless, in spite of +this, there was no other course open to us but to bid defiance to +the angry water deity, and proceed upon our journey. In half an +hour I was literally drenched; this being the case, I went on +uncomplainingly, as it was impossible for me to become wetter than I +was. + +On my return to Papara, I found that Tati's son was not buried, but +the ceremony took place the next day. The clergyman pronounced a +short discourse at the side of the grave; and, as the coffin was +being lowered, the mats, straw hat, and clothes of the deceased, as +well as a few of the presents, were thrown in with it. The +relations were present, but as unconcerned as I was myself. + +The graveyard was in the immediate vicinity of several murais. The +latter are small four-cornered plots of ground surrounded by stone +walls three or four feet high, where the natives used to deposit +their dead, which were left exposed upon wooden frames until the +flesh fell from the bones. These were then collected and buried in +some lonely spot. + +The same evening I witnessed a remarkable mode of catching fish. +Two boys waded out into the sea, one with a stick, and the other +with a quantity of burning chips. The one with the stick drove the +fish between the rocks, and then hit them, the other lighting him in +the meanwhile. They were not very fortunate, however. The more +common and successful manner of fishing is with nets. + +Almost every day Monsieur --- had visits from officers who were +passing, accompanied by their mistresses. The reader may easily +imagine that the laws of propriety were not, however, always +strictly observed, and as I had no desire to disturb the gentlemen +in their intellectual conversation and amusement, I retired with my +book into the servants' room. They, too, would laugh and joke, but, +at least, in such a manner that there was no occasion to blush for +them. + +It was highly amusing to hear Monsieur --- launch out in praise of +the attachment and gratitude of his Indian beauty; he would have +altered his tone had he seen her behaviour in his absence. On one +occasion I could not help telling one of the gentlemen my opinion of +the matter, and expressing my astonishment that they could treat +these grasping and avaricious creatures with such attention and +kindness, to load them with presents, anticipate their every wish, +and forgive and put up with their most glaring faults. The answer I +received was: that these ladies, if not so treated and loaded with +presents, would quickly run off, and that, in fact, even by the +kindest attentions they never allowed themselves to be influenced +very long. + +From all I saw, I must repeat my former assertion, that the Tahitian +people are endowed with none of the more noble sentiments of +humanity, but that their only pleasures are merely animal. Nature +herself encourages them to this in an extraordinary manner. They +have no need to gain their bread by the sweat of their brow; the +island is most plentifully supplied with beautiful fruit, tubercles +of all descriptions, and tame pigs, so that the people have really +only to gather the fruit and kill the pigs. To this circumstance is +to be attributed the difficulty that exists of obtaining any one as +servant or in any other capacity. The most wretched journeyman will +not work for less than a dollar a-day; the price for washing a dozen +handkerchiefs, or any other articles, is also a dollar (4s.), not +including soap. A native, whom I desired to engage as guide, +demanded a dollar and a half a day. + +I returned from Papara to Papeiti in the company of an officer and +his native beauty; we walked the thirty-six miles in a day. On our +way, we passed the hut of the girl's mother, where we partook of a +most splendid dish. It was composed of bread-fruit, mangoes, and +bananas, kneaded together into a paste, and cooked upon hot stones. +It was eaten, while warm, with a sauce of orange juice. + +On taking leave, the officer gave the girl a present of a dollar to +give her mother; the girl took it as indifferently as if it were not +of the slightest value, and her mother did exactly the same, neither +of them pronouncing one word of thanks, or manifesting the least +sign of satisfaction. + +We now and then came upon some portions of the road, the work of +public offenders, that were most excellently constructed. Whenever +an Indian is convicted of a crime, he is not chained in a gang, like +convicts in Europe, but condemned to make or mend a certain extent +of road, and the natives fulfil the tasks thus imposed with such +punctuality, that no overseer is ever necessary. This kind of +punishment was introduced under King Pomare, and originated with the +natives themselves--the Europeans have merely continued the +practice. + +At Punavia we entered the fort, where we refreshed ourselves, in +military fashion, with bread, wine, and bacon, and reached our +journey's end at 7 o'clock in the morning. + +Besides Papara, I visited also Venus Point, a small tongue of land +where Cook observed the transit of Venus. The stone on which he +placed his instruments still remains. On my way, I passed the +grave, or murai, of King Pomare I. It consists of a small piece of +ground, surrounded by a stone wall, and covered with a roof of palm- +leaves. Some half-decayed pieces of cloth and portions of wearing +apparel were still lying in it. + +One of my most interesting excursions, however, was that to Fantaua +and the Diadem. The former is a spot which the Indians considered +impregnable; but where, nevertheless, they were well beaten by the +French during the last war. Monsieur Bruat, the governor, was kind +enough to lend me his horses, and to allow me the escort of a non- +commissioned officer, who could point out to me each position of the +Indians and French, as he had himself been in the engagement. + +For more than two hours, we proceeded through horrible ravines, +thick woods, and rapid mountain torrents. The ravines often became +so narrow as to form so many defiles, with such precipitous and +inaccessible sides, that here, as at Thermopylae, a handful of +valiant warriors might defy whole armies. As a natural consequence, +the entrance of Fantaua is regarded as the real key to the whole +island. There was no other means of taking it than by scaling one +of its most precipitous sides, and pressing forward upon the narrow +ledge of rock above, so as to take the enemy in the rear. The +governor, Monsieur Bruat, announced that he would confide this +dangerous enterprise to volunteers, and he soon had more than he +could employ. From those chosen, a second selection of only sixty- +two men was made: these divested themselves of every article of +clothing save their shoes and drawers, and took no other arms save +their muskets. + +After clambering up for twelve hours, and incurring great danger, +they succeeded, by the aid of ropes, and by sticking pointed iron- +rods and bayonets into the rock, in reaching the crest of the +mountain, where their appearance so astonished the Indians, that +they lost all courage, threw down their arms, and surrendered. They +said that those who were capable of deeds like this, could not be +men but spirits, against whom all hopes of resistance were out of +the question altogether. + +At present, there is a small fort built at Fantaua, and on one of +its highest points stands a guard-house. The path leading to it is +over a small ledge of rock, skirted on each side by a yawning abyss. +Persons affected with giddiness can only reach it with great +difficulty, if indeed they can do so at all. In this last case, +they are great losers, for the prospect is magnificent in the +extreme, extending over valleys, ravines, and mountains without +number (among the latter may be mentioned the colossal rock called +the "Diadem"), thick forests of palms and other trees; and beyond +all these, the mighty ocean, broken into a thousand waves against +the rocks and reefs, and in the distance mingling with the azure +sky. + +Near the fort, a waterfall precipitates itself perpendicularly down +a narrow ravine. Unfortunately, the bottom of it is concealed by +jutting rocks and promontories, and the volume of water is rather +small; otherwise, this fall would, on account of its height, which +is certainly more than 400 feet, deserve to be classed among the +most celebrated ones with which I am acquainted. + +The road from the fort to the Diadem is extremely fatiguing, and +fully three hours are required to accomplish the journey. The +prospect here is even more magnificent than from the fort, as the +eye beholds the sea over two sides of the island at the same time. + +This excursion was my last in this beautiful isle, as I was obliged +to embark on the next day, the 17th of May. The cargo was cleared, +and the ballast taken on board. All articles to which the French +troops are accustomed, such as flour, salted meat, potatoes, pulse, +wine, and a variety of others, have to be imported. {86} + +I felt extremely reluctant to leave; and the only thing that tended +at all to cheer my spirits, was the thought of my speedy arrival in +China, that most wonderful of all known countries. + +We left the port of Papeiti on the morning of the 17th of May, with +a most favourable wind, soon passed in safety all the dangerous +coral-reefs which surround the island, and in seven hours' time had +lost sight of it altogether. Towards evening, we beheld the +mountain ranges of the island of Huaheme, which we passed during the +night. + +The commencement of our voyage was remarkably pleasant. Besides the +favourable breeze, which still continued, we enjoyed the company of +a fine Belgian brig, the Rubens, which had put to sea at the same +time as ourselves. It was seldom that we approached near enough for +the persons on board to converse with each other; but whoever is at +all acquainted with the endless uniformity of long voyages, will +easily understand our satisfaction at knowing we were even in the +neighbourhood of human beings. + +We pursued the same track as far as the Philippine Islands, but on +the morning of the third day our companion had disappeared, leaving +us in ignorance whether she had out-sailed us or we her. We were +once more alone on the endless waste of waters. + +On the 23rd of May, we approached very near to the low island of +Penchyn. A dozen or two of the natives were desirous of honouring +us with a visit, and pulled stoutly in six canoes towards our ship, +but we sailed so fast that they were soon left a long way behind. +Several of the sailors affirmed, that these were specimens of real +savages, and that we might reckon ourselves fortunate in having +escaped their visit. The captain, too, appeared to share this +opinion, and I was the only person who regretted not having formed a +more intimate acquaintance with them. + +28th May. For some days we had been fortunate enough to be visited, +from time to time, with violent showers; a most remarkable thing for +the time of year in this climate, where the rainy season commences +in January and lasts for three months, the sky for the remaining +nine being generally cloudless. This present exception was the more +welcome from our being just on the Line, where we should otherwise +have suffered much from the heat. The thermometer stood at only 81 +degrees in the shade, and 97 degrees in the sun. + +Today at noon we crossed the Line, and were once more in the +northern hemisphere. A Tahitian sucking-pig was killed and consumed +in honour of our successful passage, and our native hemisphere +toasted in real hock. + +On the 4th of June, under 8 degrees North latitude, we beheld again, +for the first time, the lovely polar star. + +On the 17th of June, we passed so near to Saypan, one of the largest +of the Ladrone Islands, that we could make out the mountains very +distinctly. The Ladrone and Marianne Islands are situated between +the 13 and 21 degrees North latitude, and the 145 and 146 degrees +East longitude. + +On the 1st of July we again saw land: this time it was the coast of +Lucovia, or Luzon, the largest of the Philippines, and lying between +the 18 and 19 degrees North latitude, and the 125 and 119 degrees +East longitude. The port of Manilla is situated on the southern +coast of the island. + +In the course of the day we passed the island of Babuan, and several +detached rocks, rising, colossus like, from the sea. Four of them +were pretty close together, and formed a picturesque group. Some +time afterwards we saw two more. + +In the night of the 1st-2nd of July, we reached the western point of +Luzon, and entered on the dangerous Chinese Sea. I was heartily +glad at last to bid adieu to the Pacific Ocean, for a voyage on it +is one of the most monotonous things that can be imagined. The +appearance of another ship is a rare occurrence; and the water is so +calm that it resembles a stream. Very frequently I used to start up +from my desk, thinking that I was in some diminutive room ashore; +and my mistake was the more natural, as we had three horses, a dog, +several pigs, hens, geese, and a canary bird on board, all +respectively neighing, barking, grunting, cackling, and singing, as +if they were in a farm-yard. + +6th July. For the first few days after entering the Chinese sea, we +sailed pretty well in the same fashion we had done in the Pacific-- +proceeding slowly and quietly on our way. Today we beheld the coast +of China for the first time, and towards evening we were not more +than thirty-three miles from Macao. I was rather impatient for the +following morning. I longed to find my darling hope realized, of +putting my foot upon Chinese ground. I pictured the mandarins with +their high caps, and the ladies with their tiny feet, when in the +middle of the night the wind shifted, and on the 7th of July we had +been carried back 115 miles. In addition to this, the glass fell so +low, that we dreaded a Tai-foon, which is a very dangerous kind of +storm, or rather hurricane, that is very frequent in the Chinese sea +during the months of July, August, and September. It is generally +first announced by a black cloud on the horizon, with one edge dark +red, and the other half-white; and this is accompanied by the most +awful torrents of rain, by thunder, lightning, and the violent +winds, which arise simultaneously on all sides, and lash the waters +up mountains high. We took every precaution in anticipation of our +dangerous enemy, but for once they were not needed: either the +hurricane did not break out at all, or else it broke out at a great +distance from us; for we were only visited by a trifling storm of no +long duration. + +On the 8th of July we again reached the vicinity of Macao, and +entered the Straits of Lema. Our course now lay between bays and +reefs, diversified by groups of the most beautiful islands, offering +a series of most magnificent and varied views. + +On the 9th of July we anchored in Macao Roads. The town, which +belongs to the Portuguese, and has a population of 20,000 +inhabitants, is beautifully situated on the sea-side, and surrounded +by pleasing hills and mountains. The most remarkable objects are +the palace of the Portuguese governor, the Catholic monastery of +Guia, the fortifications, and a few fine houses which lie scattered +about the hills in picturesque disorder. + +Besides a few European ships, there were anchored in the roads +several large Chinese junks, while a great number of small boats, +manned by Chinese, were rocking to and fro around us. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. CHINA. + + + +MACAO--HONG-KONG--VICTORIA--VOYAGE ON BOARD A CHINESE JUNK--THE SI- +KIANG, CALLED ALSO THE TIGRIS--WHAMPOA--CANTON, OR KUANGTSCHEU-FU-- +MODE OF LIFE PURSUED BY EUROPEANS--THE CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS-- +CRIMINALS AND PIRATES--MURDER OF VAUCHEE--PROMENADES AND EXCURSIONS. + +A year before my arrival in China, it would have seemed hardly +credible to me that I should ever succeed in taking my place among +the small number of Europeans who are acquainted with that +remarkable country, not from books alone, but from actual +observation; I never believed that I should really behold the +Chinese, with their shaven heads, long tails, and small, ugly, +narrow eyes, the exact counterparts of the representations of them +which we have in Europe. + +We had hardly anchored, before a number of Chinese clambered up on +deck, while others remained in their boats, offering for sale a +variety of beautifully made articles, with fruit and cakes, laid out +in great order, so as to form in a few seconds a regular market +round the vessel. Some of them began praising their wares in broken +English; but on the whole, they did not drive a very flourishing +business, as the crew merely bought a few cigars, and a little +fruit. + +Captain Jurianse hired a boat, and we immediately went on shore, +where each person on landing had to pay half a Spanish dollar (2s.) +to the mandarin: I subsequently heard that this imposition was +shortly afterwards abolished. We proceeded to the house of one of +the Portuguese merchants established there, passing through a large +portion of the town on our way thither. Europeans, both men and +women, can circulate freely, without being exposed to a shower of +stones, as is frequently the case in other Chinese towns. The +streets, which are exclusively inhabited by Chinese, presented a +very bustling aspect. The men were in many cases seated out of +doors in groups, playing at dominoes, while locksmiths, carpenters, +shoemakers, and many others were either working, talking, playing, +or dining in the numerous booths. I observed but few women, and +these were of the lower classes. Nothing surprised and amused me +more than the manner in which the Chinese eat; they have two little +sticks, with which they very skilfully convey their victuals into +their mouths. This process, however, cannot be so successfully +practised with rice, because it does not hold together; they +therefore hold the plate containing it close to their mouths, and +push it in by the aid of the sticks, generally letting a portion of +it fall back again, in no very cleanly fashion, into the plate. For +liquids they use round spoons of porcelain. + +The style in which the houses are built, did not strike me as very +remarkable; the front generally looks out upon the courtyard or +garden. + +Among other objects which I visited was the grotto, in which the +celebrated Portuguese poet, Camoens, is said to have composed the +Lusiade. He had been banished, A.D. 1556, to Macao, on account of a +satirical poem he had written, Disperates no India, and remained in +banishment several years before receiving a pardon. The grotto is +charmingly situated upon an eminence not far from the town. + +As there was no business to be done, the captain resolved to put to +sea again the next morning, and offered in the most friendly manner +to take me as his guest to Hong-Kong, as I had only agreed for a +passage as far as Macao. I accepted his invitation with the greater +pleasure, as I had not a single letter to any one in Macao; besides +which, it is very seldom that there is an opportunity of proceeding +to Hong-Kong. + +On account of the shallowness of the water, our ship was hove to at +rather a long distance from the shore, where it was exposed to an +attack from the pirates, who are here very daring and numerous. In +consequence of this, every precaution was taken, and the watch +doubled for the night. + +As late as the year 1842 these pirates attacked a brig that was +lying at anchor in the Macao Roads, murdering the crew and +plundering the vessel. The captain had remained on shore, and the +sailors had carelessly given themselves up to sleep, leaving only +one man to keep watch. In the middle of the night a schampan--which +is the name given to a vessel smaller than a junk--came alongside +the brig. One of the rowers then came on board, pretending he had a +letter from the captain; and as the sailor went near the lantern to +read the letter, he received from the pirate a blow upon his head +which laid him senseless on the deck; the rest of those in the boat, +who had hitherto remained concealed, now scaled the side of the +brig, and quickly overpowered the slumbering crew. + +In our case, however, the night passed without any incident worth +noting; and on the morning of the 10th of July, having first taken +on board a pilot, we proceeded to Hong-Kong, a distance of sixty +nautical miles. The voyage proved highly interesting, on account of +the varied succession of bays, creeks, and groups of islands which +we had to pass. + +The English obtained Hong-Kong from the Chinese at the conclusion of +the war in 1842, and founded the port of Victoria, which contains at +present a large number of palace-like houses built of stone. + +The Europeans who have settled here, and who are not more than two +or three hundred in number, are far from being contented, however, +as trade is not half as good as they at first expected it would be. +Every merchant is presented by the English government with a plot of +ground, on condition of his building on it. Many of them erected, +as I before mentioned, splendid edifices, which they would now be +glad to sell for half the cost price, or even very frequently to +give the ground and foundations, without asking the smallest sum in +return. + +I resolved to stop only a few days in Victoria, as it was my wish to +arrive at Canton as soon as possible. + +In addition to the great politeness he had previously shown me, +Captain Jurianse conferred another favour, by allowing me, during my +stay here, to live and lodge on board his ship, thereby saving me an +expense of 16s. or 24s. {91a} a day; and, besides this, the boat +which he had hired for his own use was always at my disposal. I +must also take this opportunity of mentioning that I never drank, on +board any other vessel, such clear and excellent water--a proof that +it is not so easily spoilt by the heat of the tropics, or a +protracted period, as is generally imagined. It all depends upon +care and cleanliness, for which the Dutch are especially celebrated; +and I only wish that every captain would, in this respect at least, +imitate their example. It is rather too bad for passengers to be +obliged to quench their thirst with thick and most offensive water-- +a disagreeable necessity I was subjected to on board every other +sailing vessel in which I made a voyage of any length. + +Victoria is not very pleasantly situated, being surrounded by barren +rocks. The town itself has a European stamp upon it, so that were +it not for the Chinese porters, labourers, and pedlars, a person +would hardly believe he was in China. I was much struck at seeing +no native women in the streets, from which it might be concluded +that it was dangerous for a European female to walk about as freely +as I did; but I never experienced the least insult, or heard the +slightest word of abuse from the Chinese; even their curiosity was +here by no means annoying. + +In Victoria I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the well- +known Herr Gutzlaff, {91b} and four other German missionaries. They +were studying the Chinese language; and wore the Chinese costume, +with their heads shaved like the natives, and with large cues +hanging down behind. No language is so difficult to read and write +as the Chinese; it contains more than four thousand characters, and +is wholly composed of monosyllables. Little brushes dipped in +Indian ink are used for writing, the writing itself extending down +the paper from right to left. + +I had not been above a few days in Victoria before I had an +opportunity of proceeding to Canton on board a small Chinese junk. +A gentleman of the name of Pustan, who is settled as a merchant +here, and whom I found excessively kind, endeavoured very earnestly +to dissuade me from trusting myself among the Chinese without any +protector, and advised me either to take a boat for myself or a +place in the steamer; but both these means were too dear for my +small finances, since either would have cost twelve dollars, whereas +a passage in the junk was only three. I must also add, that the +appearance and behaviour of the Chinese did not inspire me with the +slightest apprehension. I looked to the priming of my pistols, and +embarked very tranquilly on the evening of the 12th of July. + +A heavy fall of rain, and the approach of night, soon obliged me to +seek the interior of the vessel, where I passed my time in observing +my Chinese fellow-travellers. + +The company were, it is true, not very select, but behaved with +great propriety, so that there was nothing which could prevent my +remaining among them. Some were playing at dominoes, while others +were extracting most horrible sounds from a sort of mandolin with +three strings; all, however, were smoking, chatting, and drinking +tea, without sugar, from little saucers. I, too, had this celestial +drink offered to me on all sides. Every Chinese, rich or poor, +drinks neither pure water nor spirituous liquors, but invariably +indulges in weak tea with no sugar. + +At a late hour in the evening I retired to my cabin, the roof of +which, not being completely waterproof, let in certain very +unwelcome proofs that it was raining outside. The captain no sooner +remarked this than he assigned me another place, where I found +myself in the company of two Chinese women, busily engaged in +smoking out of pipes with bowls no bigger than thimbles, and in +consequence they could not take more than four or five puffs without +being obliged to fill their pipes afresh. + +They soon remarked that I had no stool for my head. They offered me +one of theirs, and would not be satisfied until I accepted it. It +is a Chinese custom to use, instead of pillows, little stools of +bamboo or strong pasteboard. They are not stuffed, but are rounded +at the top, and are about eight inches high, and from one to three +feet long. They are far more comfortable than would at first be +imagined. + +13th July. On hurrying upon deck early in the morning to view the +mouth of the Si-Kiang, or Tigris, I found that we had already passed +it, and were a long way up the river. I saw it, however, +subsequently, on my return from Canton to Hong-Kong. The Si-Kiang, +which is one of the principal rivers of China, and which, at a short +distance before entering the sea, is eight nautical miles broad, is +so contracted by hills and rocks at its mouth, that it loses one +half of its breadth. The surrounding country is fine, and a few +fortifications on the summits of some of the hills, give it rather a +romantic appearance. + +Near Hoo-man, or Whampoa, the stream divides into several branches; +that which flows to Canton being called the Pearl stream. Although +Whampoa of itself is an insignificant place, it is worthy of note, +as being the spot where, from the shallowness of the water, all +deeply laden ships are obliged to anchor. + +Immense plantations of rice, skirted by bananas and other fruit- +trees, extend along the banks of the Pearl stream. The trees are +sometimes prettily arranged in alleys, but are planted far less for +ornament than for use. Rice always requires a great deal of +moisture, and the trees are planted in order to impart a greater +degree of solidity to the soil, and also to prevent the possibility +of its being washed away by the force of the stream. Pretty little +country houses of the genuine Chinese pattern, with their sloping, +pointed, indented roofs, and their coloured tiles inlaid with +different hues, were scattered here and there, under groups of shady +trees, while pagodas (called Tas) of various styles, and from three +to nine stories high, raised their heads on little eminences in the +neighbourhood of the villages, and attracted attention at a great +distance. A number of fortifications, which, however, look more +like roofless houses than anything else, protect the stream. + +For miles below Canton, the villages follow one another in quick +succession. They are mostly composed of miserable huts, built for +the most part on piles driven into the river, and before them lie +innumerable boats, which also serve as dwellings. + +The nearer we approached Canton, the busier became the scene on the +river, and the greater the number of ships and inhabited boats. I +saw some junks of most extraordinary shape, having poops that hung +far over the water, and provided with large windows and galleries, +and covered in with a roof, like a house. These vessels are often +of immense size, and of a thousand tons' burden. I also saw some +Chinese men-of-war, flat, broad, and long, and mounting twenty or +thirty cannons. {93} Another object of interest was the mandarins' +boats, with their painted sides, doors, and windows, their carved +galleries, and pretty little silk flags, giving them the appearance +of the most charming houses; but what delighted me most was the +flower-boats, with their upper galleries ornamented with flowers, +garlands, and arabesques. A large apartment and a few cabinets, +into which the interior is divided, are reached through doors and +windows which have almost a Gothic appearance. Mirrors and silk +hangings adorn the walls, while glass chandeliers and coloured paper +lanterns, between which swing lovely little baskets with fresh +flowers, complete the magic scene. + +These flower-boats are always stationary, and are frequented by the +Chinese as places of amusement, both by day and night. Plays are +acted here, and ballets and conjuring performed. Women, with the +exception of a certain class, do not frequent these places; +Europeans are not exactly prevented from entering them, but are +exposed, especially in the present unfavourable state of public +opinion, to insult and even injury. + +In addition to these extraordinary vessels, let the reader picture +to himself thousands of small boats (schampans), some at anchor, +some crossing and passing in all directions, with fishermen casting +their nets, and men and children amusing themselves by swimming, and +he will have some idea of the scene I witnessed. I often could not +avoid turning away with terror at seeing the little children playing +and rolling about upon the narrow boats, I expected every instant +that one or other of them would certainly fall overboard. Some +parents are cautious enough to fasten hollow gourds, or bladders +filled with air, on their children's backs, until they are six years +old, so as to prevent them sinking so quickly, if they should happen +to tumble into the water. + +All these multifarious occupations--this ceaseless activity, this +never-ending bustle, form so peculiar a feature, that it is hardly +possible for a person who has not been an eye-witness to obtain a +correct idea of it. + +It is only during the last few years that we European women have +been allowed to visit or remain in the factories at Canton. I left +the vessel without any apprehension; but first, I had to consider +how I should find my way to the house of a gentleman named Agassiz, +for whom I had brought letters of recommendation. I explained to +the captain, by signs, that I had no money with me, and that he must +act as my guide to the factory, where I would pay him. He soon +understood me, and conducted me to the place, and the Europeans +there showed me the particular house I wanted. + +On seeing me arrive, and hearing the manner in which I had +travelled, and the way that I had walked from the vessel to his +house, Mr. Agassiz was extremely surprised, and would hardly credit +that I had met with no difficulties or injury. From him I learned +what risks I, as a woman, had run in traversing the streets of +Canton with no escort but a Chinese guide. Such a thing had never +occurred before, and Mr. Agassiz assured me that I might esteem +myself as exceedingly fortunate in not having been insulted by the +people in the grossest manner, or even stoned. Had this been the +case, he told me that my guide would have immediately taken to +flight, and abandoned me to my fate. + +I had certainly remarked, on my way from the vessel to the factory, +that both old and young turned back to look after me, and that they +hooted and pointed at me with their fingers; the people ran out of +the booths, and gradually formed a crowd at my heels. I had, +however, no alternative but to preserve my countenance; I walked, +therefore, calmly on, and perhaps it is to the very fact of my +manifesting no fear that I escaped unmolested. + +I had not intended to stop long in Canton, as, since the last war +between the English and Chinese, Europeans are obliged to be more +careful than ever how they show themselves in public. This hatred +is more especially directed against women, as it is declared in one +of the Chinese prophecies that a woman will some day or other +conquer the Celestial Empire. On account of this, I entertained but +slight hopes of seeing anything here, and thought of proceeding +directly to the port of Shanghai, in the north of China, where, as I +was informed, it was far easier to obtain access both among the +nobility and lower classes. Fortunately, however, I made the +acquaintance of a German gentleman, Herr von Carlowitz, who had been +settled for some time in Canton. He offered, in the kindest manner, +to act as my Mentor, on condition that I should arm myself with +patience until the mail from Europe, which was expected in a few +days, had come in. {95} At such times the merchants are so busy and +excited, that they have no leisure to think of anything but their +correspondence. I was, therefore, obliged to wait, not only until +the steamer had arrived, but until it had left again, which it did +not do until a week had elapsed. I have to thank Mr. Agassiz that +the time did not hang heavily upon my hands; I was most kindly and +hospitably entertained, and enjoyed the opportunity of noting the +mode of life of those Europeans who have settled in the country. + +Very few take their families with them to China, and least of all to +Canton, where both women and children are closely imprisoned in +their houses, which they can only leave in a well-closed litter. +Besides this, everything is so dear, that living in London is cheap +in comparison. Lodgings of six rooms, with a kitchen, cost about +700 or 800 dollars a-year (140 or 160 pounds). A man-servant +receives from four to eight dollars a-month, and female servants +nine or ten dollars, as Chinese women will not wait upon a European +unless greatly overpaid. In addition to all this, there is a custom +prevalent here, of having a separate person for each branch of +household duty, which renders a large number of servants +indispensable. + +A family of only four persons requires at least eleven or twelve +domestics, if not more. In the first place, every member of the +family must have an attendant especially for his or her use; then +there is a man-cook, a number of nursery-maids, and several coolies +for the more menial duties, such as cleaning the rooms, carrying the +wood and water, and so forth. In spite of this number of servants, +the attendance is frequently very bad; for, if one or other of them +happens to be out, and his services are required, his master must +wait until he returns, as no servant could ever be prevailed upon to +do another's duty. + +At the head of the whole household is the comprador, who is a kind +of major-domo. To his care are confided all the plate, furniture, +linen, and other effects; he engages all the servants, provides for +their board, and anything else they may require, and answers for +their good conduct, deducting, however, two dollars a-month from the +wages of each, in return for his services. He makes all the +purchases, and settles all the bills, giving in the sum total at the +end of the month, without descending into the items. + +Besides these domestic duties, the comprador is also entrusted with +the money belonging to his master's firm; hundreds of thousands of +dollars pass through his hands, and he is responsible for the +genuineness of every one. He has persons in his own employment who +pay and receive all monies, and who examine and test every separate +coin with the most marvellous rapidity. They take a whole handful +of dollars at a time, and toss them up separately with the finger +and thumb: this enables them to determine whether each "rings" +properly, and on the coin falling into their hand again, reversed, +they examine the second side with a glance. A few hours are +sufficient to pass several thousand dollars in review; and this +minute inspection is very necessary, on account of the number of +false dollars made by the Chinese. Each piece of money is then +stamped with the peculiar mark of the firm, as a guarantee of its +genuineness, so that it at last becomes exceedingly thin and broad, +and frequently falls to bits; no loss is, however, occasioned by +this, as the amount is always reckoned by weight. Besides dollars, +little bars of pure unstamped silver are used as a circulating +medium; small portions, varying in size, being cut off them, +according to the sum required. The counting-house is situated on +the ground floor, in the comprador's room. The Europeans have +nothing to do with the money, and, in fact, never even carry any for +their private use. + +The comprador has no fixed salary, but receives a stated per-centage +upon all business transactions: his per-centage upon the household +expenses is not fixed, but is not on that account less certain. On +the whole, these compradors are very trustworthy. They pay down a +certain sum, as caution-money, to some mandarin, and the latter +answers for them. + +The following is a tolerably correct account of the mode of life +pursued by the Europeans settled here. As soon as they are up, and +have drunk a cup of tea in their bed-room, they take a cold bath. A +little after 9 o'clock, they breakfast upon fried fish or cutlets, +cold roast meat, boiled eggs, tea, and bread and butter. Every one +then proceeds to his business until dinner-time, which is generally +4 o'clock. The dinner is composed of turtle-soup, curry, roast +meat, hashes, and pastry. All the dishes, with the exception of the +curry, are prepared after the English fashion, although the cooks +are Chinese. For dessert there is cheese, with fruit; such as pine- +apples, long-yen, mangoes, and lytchi. The Chinese affirm that the +latter is the finest fruit in the whole world. It is about the size +of a nut, with a brown verrucous outside; the edible part is white +and tender, and the kernel black. Long-yen is somewhat smaller, but +is also white and tender, though the taste is rather watery. +Neither of these fruits struck me as very good. I do not think the +pine-apples are so sweet, or possessed of that aromatic fragrance +which distinguishes those raised in our European greenhouses, +although they are much larger. + +Portuguese wines and English beer are the usual drinks--ice, broken +into small pieces, and covered up with a cloth, is offered with +each. The ice is rather a costly article, as it has to be brought +from North America. In the evening, tea is served up. + +During meal-times, a large punkah is employed to diffuse an +agreeable degree of coolness through the apartment. The punkah is a +large frame, from eight to ten feet long, and three feet high, +covered with white Indian cloth, and fastened to the ceiling. A +rope communicates, through the wall, like a bell-pull, with the next +room, or the ground floor, where a servant is stationed to keep it +constantly in motion, and thus maintain a pleasing draught. + +As may be seen from what I have said, the living here is very dear +for Europeans. The expense of keeping a house may be reckoned at +30,000 francs (6,000 dollars--1,200 pounds) at the lowest; a very +considerable sum, when we reflect how little it procures, neither +including a carriage nor horses. There is nothing in the way of +amusement, or places of public recreation; the only pleasure many +gentlemen indulge in, is keeping a boat, for which they pay 28s. a- +month, or they walk in the evenings in a small garden, which the +European inhabitants have laid out at their own cost. This garden +faces the factory, surrounded on three sides by a wall, and, on the +fourth, washed by the Pearl stream. + +The living of the Chinese population, on the contrary, costs very +little; 60 cash, 1,200 of which make a dollar (4s.), may be reckoned +a very liberal daily allowance for each man. As a natural +consequence, wages are extremely low; a boat, for instance, may be +hired for half a dollar (2s.) a-day, and on this income, a whole +family of from six to eight persons will often exist. It is true, +the Chinese are not too particular in their food; they eat dogs, +cats, mice, and rats, the intestines of birds, and the blood of +every animal, and I was even assured that caterpillars and worms +formed part of their diet. Their principal dish, however, is rice, +which is not only employed by them in the composition of their +various dishes, but supplies the place of bread. It is exceedingly +cheap; the pekul, which is equal to 124 lbs. English avoirdupois, +costing from one dollar and three-quarters to two dollars and a +half. + +The costume of both sexes, among the lower orders, consists of broad +trousers and long upper garments, and is remarkable for its +excessive filth. The Chinaman is an enemy of baths and washing; he +wears no shirt, and does not discard his trousers until they +actually fall off his body. The men's upper garments reach a little +below the knee, and the women's somewhat lower. They are made of +nankeen, or dark blue, brown, or black silk. During the cold +season, both men and women wear one summer-garment over the other, +and keep the whole together with a girdle; during the great heat, +however, they allow their garments to flutter unconstrained about +their body. + +All the men have their heads shaved, with the exception of a small +patch at the back, the hair on which is carefully cultivated and +plaited into a cue. The thicker and longer this cue is, the prouder +is its owner; false hair and black ribbon are consequently worked up +in it, so that it often reaches down to the ankles. During work, it +is twisted round the neck, but, on the owner's entering a room, it +is let down again, as it would be against all the laws of etiquette +and politeness for a person to make his appearance with his cue +twisted up. The women wear all their hair, which they comb entirely +back off their forehead, and fasten it in most artistic plaits to +the head; they spend a great deal of time in the process, but when +their hair is once dressed, it does not require to be touched for a +whole week. Both men and women sometimes go about with no covering +at all on their head; sometimes they wear hats made of thin bamboo, +and very frequently three feet in diameter; these keep off both sun +and rain, and are exceedingly durable. + +On their feet they wear sewed stockings and shoes, formed of black +silk, or some material like worsted; the soles, which are more than +an inch thick, are made up of layers of strong pasteboard or felt +pasted together. The poor people go barefooted. + +The houses of the lower classes are miserable hovels, built of wood +or brick. The internal arrangements are very wretched: the whole +furniture consists of a worthless table, a few chairs, and two or +three bamboo-mats, stools for the head, and old counterpanes; yet, +with this poverty, there are always sure to be some pots of flowers. + +The cheapest mode of living is on board a boat. The husband goes on +shore to his work, and leaves his wife to make a trifle by ferrying +persons over, or letting out the boat to pleasure parties. One half +the boat belongs to the family themselves, and the other half to the +persons to whom they let it; and although there is not much room, +the whole boat measuring scarcely twenty-five feet in length, the +greatest order and cleanliness is everywhere apparent, as each +single plank on board is thoroughly scrubbed and washed every +morning. Great ingenuity is displayed in turning every inch of +space on board these small craft to advantage, and the dexterity is +actually pushed so far as to find room for a tiny domestic altar. +During the day all the cookery and washing is done, and though at +the latter process there is no want of little children, the +temporary tenant of the boat does not suffer the least annoyance; +nothing offensive meets his eye; and, at the most, he merely hears +at rare intervals the whining voice of some poor little wretch. The +youngest child is generally tied on its mother's back while she +steers; the elder children, too, have sometimes similar burdens, but +jump and climb about without the least consideration for them. It +has often grieved me to the heart to see the head of an infant +scarcely born, thrown from one side to the other with each movement +of the child that was carrying it, or the sun darting so fiercely on +the poor little creature, who was completely exposed to its rays, +that it could hardly open its eyes. For those who have not been +themselves witnesses of the fact, it is almost impossible to form an +idea of the indigence and poverty of a Chinese boat-family. + +The Chinese are accused of killing numbers of their new-born or +weakly children. They are said to suffocate them immediately after +their birth, and then throw them into the river, or expose them in +the streets--by far the most horrible proceeding of the two, on +account of the number of swine and houseless dogs, who fall upon, +and voraciously devour, their prey. The most frequent victims are +the female infants, as parents esteem themselves fortunate in +possessing a large number of male children, the latter being bound +to support them in their old age; the eldest son, in fact, should +the father die, is obliged to take his place, and provide for his +brothers and sisters, who, on their part, are bound to yield +implicit obedience, and show him the greatest respect. These laws +are very strictly observed, and any one infringing them is punished +with death. + +The Chinese consider it a great honour to be a grandfather, and +every man who is fortunate enough to be one wears a moustache, as +the distinctive sign of his good luck. These thin grey moustaches +are the more conspicuous, as the young men not only wear none, but, +as a general rule, grow no beard at all. + +With regard to the social manners and customs of the Chinese, I am +only able to mention a few, as it is exceedingly difficult, and, in +fact, almost impossible, for a foreigner to become acquainted with +them. I endeavoured to see as much as I could, and mixed on every +possible opportunity among the people, afterwards writing down a +true account of what I had seen. + +On going out one morning, I met more than fifteen prisoners, all +with a wooden yoke (can-gue) about their necks, being led through +the streets. This yoke is composed of two large pieces of wood, +fitting into one another, and having from one to three holes in +them; through these holes the head, and one or both hands, are +stuck, in proportion to the importance of the offence. A yoke of +this description varies in weight from fifty to a hundred pounds, +and presses so heavily upon the neck and shoulders of the poor +wretch who bears it, that he is unable to convey his victuals to his +mouth himself, and is compelled to wait till some compassionate soul +feeds him. This punishment lasts from a few days to several months; +in the latter case the prisoner generally dies. + +Another description of punishment is the bastinado with the bamboo, +which, when applied to the more tender parts of the body, very +often, as early as the fifteenth blow, frees its victim for ever +from all his earthly sufferings. Other more severe punishments, +which in no way yield the palm to those of the Holy Inquisition, +consist in flaying the prisoner alive, crushing his limbs, cutting +the sinews out of his feet, and so on. Their modes of carrying out +the sentence of death appear to be mild in comparison, and are +generally confined to strangling and decapitation, although, as I +was informed, in certain extraordinary cases, the prisoner is +executed by being sawed in two, or left to die of starvation. In +the first case, the unhappy victim is made fast between two planks, +and sawed in two longitudinally, beginning with the head; and, in +the second, he is either buried up to his head in the ground, and +thus left to perish of want, or else is fastened in one of the +wooden yokes I have described, while his food is gradually reduced +in quantity every day, until at last it consists of only a few +grains of rice. In spite of the horrible and cruel nature of these +punishments, it is said that individuals are found ready, for a sum +of money, to undergo them all, death even included, instead of the +person condemned. + +In the year 1846, 4,000 people were beheaded at Canton. It is true +that they were the criminals of two provinces, which together +numbered a population of 9,000,000 souls, but the number is still +horrible to contemplate. Is it possible that there could really be +so many who should be looked upon as criminals--or are persons +sentenced to death for a mere nothing--or are both these +suppositions true? + +I once happened to go near the place of execution, and to my horror +beheld a long row of still bleeding heads exposed upon high poles. +The relations enjoy the privilege of carrying away and interring the +bodies. + +There are several different religions in China, the most prevalent +being Buddhism. It is marked by great superstition and idolatry, +and is mostly confined to the lower classes. The most natural is +that of the wise Confucius, which is said to be the religion of the +court, the public functionaries, the scholars, and educated classes. + +The population of China is composed of a great many very different +races: unfortunately, I am unable to describe their several +characteristics, as my stay in China was far too short. The people +I saw in Canton, Hong-Kong, and Macao, are of middling stature. +Their complexion varies with their occupation: the peasants and +labourers are rather sun-burnt; rich people and ladies white. Their +faces are flat, broad, and ugly; their eyes are narrow, rather +obliquely placed, and far apart; their noses broad, and their mouth +large. Their fingers I observed were in many cases extremely long +and thin; only the rich (of both sexes) allow their nails to grow to +an extraordinary length, as a proof that they are not obliged, like +their poorer brethren, to gain their livelihood by manual labour. +These aristocratic nails are generally half an inch long, though I +saw one man whose nails were quite an inch in length, but only on +his left hand. With this hand it was impossible for him to raise +any flat object, except by laying his hand flat upon it, and +catching hold of it between his fingers. + +The women of the higher classes are generally inclined to +corpulency, a quality which is highly esteemed not in women alone, +but in men as well. + +Although I had heard a great deal about the small feet of Chinese +women, I was greatly astonished at their appearance. Through the +kind assistance of a missionary's lady (Mrs. Balt) I was enabled to +behold one of these small feet in natura. Four of the toes were +bent under the sole of the foot, to which they were firmly pressed, +and with which they appeared to be grown together; the great toe was +alone left in its normal state. The fore-part of the foot had been +so compressed with strong broad bandages, that instead of expanding +in length and breadth, it had shot upwards and formed a large lump +at the instep, where it made part and parcel of the leg; the lower +portion of the foot was scarcely four inches long, and an inch and a +half broad. The feet are always swathed in white linen or silk, +bound round with silk bandages and stuffed into pretty little shoes, +with very high heels. + +To my astonishment these deformed beings tripped about, as if in +defiance of us broad-footed creatures, with tolerable ease, the only +difference in their gait being that they waddled like geese; they +even ran up and down stairs without the aid of a stick. + +The only persons exempted from this Chinese method of improving +their beauty are girls of the lowest class--that is, those who live +in boats; in families of rank they are all subject to the same fate; +while in those of the middle classes, as a general rule, it is +limited to the eldest daughter. + +The worth of a bride is reckoned by the smallness of her feet. + +This process of mutilation is not commenced immediately the child is +born, but is deferred until the end of the first, or sometimes even +third year, nor is the foot after the operation forced into an iron +shoe, as many have affirmed, but merely firmly compressed with +bandages. + +The religion of the Chinese allows them to have a number of wives, +but in this respect they are far behind the Mahomedans. The richest +have rarely more than from six to twelve, while poor persons content +themselves with one. + +I visited during my stay in Canton as many workshops of the +different artists as I could. My first visit was to the most +celebrated painters, and I must frankly own, that the vividness and +splendour of their colouring struck me exceedingly. These qualities +are generally ascribed to the rice paper on which they paint, and +which is of the greatest possible fineness, and as white as milk. + +The paintings upon linen and ivory differ very little, as far as the +colouring is concerned, from those of our European artists, and the +difference is therefore the more visible in their composition, and +perspective, which, with the Chinese, are yet in a state of infancy. +This is more especially true of perspective. The figures and +objects in the back-ground rival in size and brilliancy those in +front, while rivers or seas float in the place which should be +occupied by clouds. On the other hand, the native artists can copy +admirably, {101} and even take likenesses. I saw some portraits so +strikingly well drawn, and admirably coloured, that first-rate +European artists need not have been ashamed to own them. + +The Chinese possess marvellous skill in carving ivory, +tortoiseshell, and wood. Among the superior black lacquered +articles, especially with flat or raised gold ornaments, I observed +some, which were worthy of a place in the most valuable collections +of objects of vertu. I saw some small work-tables worth at least +600 dollars (120 pounds). The baskets and carpets, made from the +bamboo, are also remarkably beautiful. + +They are, however, far behind-hand in gold or silver work, which is +generally heavy and tasteless; but then again, they have attained +great celebrity by their porcelain, which is remarkable not only for +its size, but for its transparency. It is true that vases and other +vessels four feet high are neither light nor transparent; but cups +and other small objects can only be compared to glass for fineness +and transparency. The colours on them are very vivid, but the +drawings very stiff and bad. + +In the manufacture of silks and crape shawls, the Chinese are +unsurpassable; the latter especially, in beauty, tastefulness, and +thickness, are far preferable to those made in England or France. + +The knowledge of music, on the other hand, is so little developed, +that our good friends of the Celestial Empire might almost, in this +respect, be compared to savages--not that they have no instruments, +but they do not know how to use them. They possess violins, +guitars, lutes (all with strings or wires), dulcimers, wind +instruments, ordinary and kettle-drums, and cymbals, but are neither +skilled in composition, melody, nor execution. They scratch, +scrape, and thump upon their instruments in such a manner, as to +produce the finest marrowbone-and-cleaver kind of music imaginable. +During my excursions up and down the Pearl stream, I had frequent +opportunities of hearing artistic performances of this description +on board the mandarin and flower-boats. + +In all kinds of deception the Chinese are great adepts, and +decidedly more than a match for any Europeans. They have not the +slightest sense of honour, and if you detect them, content +themselves with saying: "You are more clever or cunning than I." I +was told that when they have any live stock, such as calves or pigs, +for sale, they compel them, as they are disposed of by weight, to +swallow stones or large quantities of water. They also know how to +blow out and dress stale poultry, so as to make it look quite fresh +and plump. + +But it is not the lower classes alone that indulge in cheating and +fraud; these agreeable qualities are shared by the highest +functionaries. It is a well-known fact, for instance, that there +are nowhere so many pirates as in the Chinese sea, especially in the +vicinity of Canton; yet no measures are taken to punish or extirpate +them, simply because the mandarins do not think it beneath their +dignity to secretly share in the profits. + +For example, though the opium trade is forbidden, so much of this +drug is smuggled in every year, that it is said to exceed in value +that of all the tea exported in the same period. {102a} The +merchants enter into a private understanding with the officers and +mandarins, agreeing to give them a certain sum for every pikul, and +it is no rare occurrence for a mandarin to land whole cargoes under +the protection of his own flag. + +In like manner there is said to be on one of the islands near Hong- +Kong a very extensive manufactory of false money, which is allowed +to be carried on without any interruption, as it pays a tribute to +the public functionaries and mandarins. A short time ago, a number +of pirate vessels that had ventured too near Canton, were shot into +and sunk, the crews lost, and their leader taken. The owners of the +vessels petitioned the government to set the prisoners free, and +threatened, in case of a refusal, to make extensive disclosures. +Every one was convinced that a sum of money accompanied this +threatening letter, for shortly after it was reported that the +prisoner had escaped. + +I myself was witness of a circumstance in Canton, which caused me +great uneasiness, and was a pretty good proof of the helplessness or +apathy of the Chinese government. + +On the 8th of August, Mr. Agassiz set out with a friend, intending +to return the same evening. I was left at home alone with the +Chinese servants. Mr. Agassiz did not return at the appointed time. +At last, about 1 o'clock the next morning, I suddenly heard voices +in loud conversation, and a violent knocking at the street door. I +at first supposed it to be Mr. Agassiz, and felt much surprise at +the late hour of his arrival, but I soon perceived that the +disturbance was not in our house, but in that on the opposite side +of the way. It is easy to fall into an error of this description, +as the houses are situated quite close to each other, and windows +are left open day and night. I heard voices exclaim, "Get up,-- +dress!" and then, "It is horrible--shocking--good heavens?--where +did it happen?"--I sprang quickly out of bed and huddled on my gown, +thinking either that a fire had broken out in some house or other, +or that the people had risen in insurrection. {102b} + +Seeing a gentleman at one of the windows, I called and inquired of +him what was the matter. He told me hurriedly that intelligence had +just arrived that two of his friends who were proceeding to Hong- +Kong (Whampoa lay on the road) had been attacked by pirates, and +that one was killed and the other wounded. He then immediately +retired, so that I was unable to learn the name of the unfortunate +victim, and was left all night a prey to the greatest anxiety lest +it should be Mr. Agassiz. + +Fortunately, this at least was not the case, as Mr. Agassiz returned +at 5 o'clock in the morning. I then learned that this misfortune +had happened to Monsieur Vauchee, a Swiss gentleman, who had passed +many an evening in our house. On the very day of his departure, I +met him at a neighbour's, where we had all been in the highest +spirits, singing songs and quartettes. At 9 o'clock he went on +board the boat, set off at 10, and a quarter of an hour afterwards, +in the midst of thousands of schampans and other craft, met his +tragical end. + +Monsieur Vauchee had intended to proceed to Hong-Kong, and there +embark on board a larger vessel for Shanghai; {103} he took with him +Swiss watches to the value of 40,000 francs (1,600 pounds), and, in +speaking to a friend, congratulated himself on the cautious manner +he had packed them up, without letting his servants know anything +about it. This, however, could not have been the case: and, as the +pirates have spies among the servants in every house, they were +unfortunately but too well acquainted with the circumstance. + +During my stay in Canton, the house of a European was pulled down by +the populace, because it stood upon a piece of ground which, though +Europeans were allowed to occupy, they had not hitherto built upon. + +In this manner there was hardly a day that we did not hear of acts +of violence and mischief, so that we were in a continual state of +apprehension, more especially as the report of the near approach of +a revolution, in which all the Europeans were to perish, was +everywhere bruited about. Many of the merchants had made every +preparation for instant flight, and muskets, pistols, and swords +were neatly arranged ready for use in most of the counting-houses. +Luckily, the time fixed for the revolution passed over, without the +populace fulfilling its threats. + +The Chinese are cowardly in the highest degree; they talk very large +when they are certain they have nothing to fear. For instance, they +are always ready to stone, or even kill, a few defenceless +individuals, but if they have to fear any opposition, they are sure +not to commence the attack. I believe that a dozen good European +soldiers would put to flight more than a hundred Chinese. I myself +never met with a more dastardly, false, and, at the same time, cruel +race, in my life; one proof of this is, that their greatest pleasure +consists in torturing animals. + +In spite of the unfavourable disposition of the populace, I ventured +out a good deal. Herr von Carlowitz was untiring in his kindness to +me, and accompanied me everywhere, exposing himself to many dangers +on my account, and bearing patiently the insults of the populace, +who followed at our heels, and loudly expressed their indignation at +the boldness of the European woman in thus appearing in public. +Through his assistance, I saw more than any woman ever yet saw in +China. + +Our first excursion was to the celebrated Temple of Honan, which is +said to be one of the finest in China. + +This temple is surrounded by numerous out-buildings, and a large +garden enclosed with a high wall. You first enter a large fore- +court, at the extremity of which a colossal gateway leads into the +inner courts. Under the archway of this portico are two War Gods, +each eighteen feet high, in menacing attitudes, and with horribly +distorted features. They are placed there to prevent evil spirits +from entering. A second similar portico, under which are the four +Celestial Kings, leads into the inmost court, where the principal +temple is situated. The interior of the temple is 100 feet in +length, and 100 feet in breadth. The flat roof, from which hang a +number of glass chandeliers, lamps, artificial flowers, and silk +ribbons, is supported upon several rows of wooden pillars, while the +multitude of statues, altars, flower-pots, censers, candelabra, +candlesticks, and other ornaments, involuntarily suggest to the mind +of the spectator the decoration of a Roman Catholic church. + +In the foreground are three altars, and behind these three statues, +representing the God Buddha in three different aspects: the past, +the present, and the future. These figures, which are in a sitting +posture, are of colossal dimensions. + +We happened to visit the temple just as service was being performed. +It was a kind of mass for the dead, which a mandarin had ordered for +his deceased wife. At the right and left altars were the priests, +whose garments and gesticulations also resembled those of the Roman +Catholics. At the middle altar was the mandarin, piously engaged in +prayer, while two stood beside him, fanning him with large fans. +{104} He frequently kissed the ground, and every time he did so, +three wax tapers were presented to him, which he first elevated in +the air, and then gave to one of the priests, who placed them before +a statue of Buddha, but without lighting them. The music was +performed by three men, one of whom twanged a stringed instrument, +while the second struck a metal globe, and the third played the +flute. + +Besides the principal temple there are various smaller ones, and +halls, all adorned with statues of gods. Especial honour is paid to +the twenty-four Gods of Pity, and to Kwanfootse, a demi-god of War. +Many of the former have four, six, and even eight arms. All these +divinities, Buddha himself not excepted, are made of wood, gilt +over, and painted with glazing colours. + +In the Temple of Mercy we met with an adventure which was nearly +attended with unpleasant consequences. A priest, or bonze, handed +us some little tapers for us to light and offer to his divinity. +Herr von Carlowitz and myself had already got the tapers in our +hands, and were quite willing to afford him this gratification, when +an American missionary, who was with us, tore the tapers from our +grasp, and indignantly returned them to the priest, saying, that +what we were about to do was an act of idolatry. The priest took +the matter very seriously, and, instantly closing the doors, called +his companions, who hurried in from all sides, and abused us in the +most violent and vociferous fashion, pressing closer every instant. +It was with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded in fighting +our way to the door, and thus making our escape. + +After this little fray, our guide conducted us to the dwelling of +the Holy--Pigs! {105} A beautiful stone hall is set apart for their +use, which hall these remarkable divinities fill, in spite of all +the care bestowed on them, with so horrible a stench, that it is +impossible to approach them without holding one's nose. They are +taken care of and fed until death summons them away. When we +visited the place there were only a pair of these fortunate beings, +and their number rarely exceeds three couples. + +I was better pleased with the residence of a bonze, which adjoined +this holy spot. It consisted of a sitting-room and bed-room merely, +but was very comfortably and elegantly fitted up. The walls of the +sitting-room were ornamented with carved wood-work, and the +furniture was old-fashioned and pleasing: at the back of the +apartment, which was flagged, stood a small altar. + +We here saw an opium-eater, lying stretched out upon a mat on the +floor. At his side was a cup of tea, with some fruit and a little +lamp, besides several pipes, with bowls that were smaller than a +thimble. On our entrance, he was just inhaling the intoxicating +smoke from one of them. It is said that some of the Chinese opium +smokers consume from twenty to thirty grains a-day. As he was not +altogether unconscious of our presence, he managed to raise himself, +laid by his pipe, and dragged himself to a chair. His eyes were +fixed and staring, and his face deadly pale, presenting altogether a +most pitiable and wretched spectacle. + +Last of all, we were conducted to the garden, where the bonzes, at +their death, are burnt--a particular mark of distinction, as all +other people are interred. A simple mausoleum, about thirty feet +square, and a few small private monuments, were all that was to be +seen. None of them had any pretensions to elegance, being built of +the simplest masonry. In the former of these edifices are preserved +the bones of the persons who have been burnt, and among them are +also buried the rich Chinese, whose heirs pay pretty handsomely to +obtain such an honour for them. At a little distance stands a small +tower, eight feet in diameter and eighteen in height, with a small +pit, where a fire can be kindled, in the floor. Over this pit is an +armchair, to which the deceased bonze is fastened in full costume. +Logs and dry brushwood are disposed all round, and the whole is set +fire to, and the doors closed. In an hour they are again opened, +the ashes strewed around the tower, and the bones preserved until +the period for opening the mausoleum, which is only once every year. + +A striking feature in the garden is this beautiful water-rose, or +lotus-flower (nymphaea nelumbo), which was originally a native of +China. The Chinese admire this flower so much, that they have ponds +dug in their gardens expressly for it. It is about six inches in +diameter, and generally white--very rarely pale red. The seeds +resemble in size and taste those of the hazel; and the roots, when +cooked, are said to taste like artichokes. + +There are more than a hundred bonzes who reside in the temple of +Honan. In their ordinary dress, they differ nothing from the common +Chinamen, the only means of recognising them being by their heads, +which are _entirely_ shaved. Neither these nor any other priests +can boast, as I was told, of being in the least respected by the +people. + +Our second excursion was to the Half-way Pagoda, so called by the +English from its lying half way between Canton and Whampoa. We went +up the Pearl stream to it. It stands upon a small eminence near a +village, in the midst of immense fields of rice, and is composed of +nine stories, 170 feet high. Its circumference is not very +considerable, but nearly the same all the way up, which gives it the +look of a tower. I was informed that this pagoda was formerly one +of the most celebrated in China, but it has long ceased to be used. +The interior was completely empty; there were neither statues nor +any other ornaments; nor were there any floors to prevent the eye +from seeing to the very top. On the outside, small balconies +without railings surround each story, to which access is gained by +steep and narrow flights of stairs. These projecting balconies +produce a very fine effect, being built of coloured bricks, very +artistically laid, and faced with variegated tiles. The bricks are +placed in rows, with their points jutting obliquely outwards, so +that the points project about four inches over one another. At a +distance, the work seems as if it were half pierced through, and +from the beautiful colours and fineness of the tiles, a person might +easily mistake the entire mass for porcelain. + +While we were viewing the pagoda, the whole population of the +village had assembled round about us, and as they behaved with +tolerable quietness, we determined on paying a visit to the village +itself. The houses, or rather huts, were small and built of brick, +and with the exception of their flat roofs, presented nothing +peculiar. The rooms did not possess a ceiling of their own, but +were simply covered by the roof; the floor was formed of earth +closely pressed together, and the internal walls consisted partly of +bamboo-mats. What little furniture there was, was exceedingly +dirty. About the middle of the village was a small temple, with a +few lamps burning dimly before the principal divinity. + +What struck me most was the quantity of poultry, both in and out of +the huts, and we had to take the greatest care to avoid treading on +some of the young brood. The chickens are hatched, as they are in +Egypt, by artificial heat. + +On our return from the village to the pagoda, we saw two schampans +run in shore, and a number of swarthy, half-naked, and mostly armed +men jump out, and hasten through the fields of rice directly to +where we were. We set them down as pirates, and awaited the upshot +with a considerable degree of uneasiness. We knew that, if we were +right in our supposition, we were lost without hope; for, at the +distance we were from Canton, and entirely surrounded by Chinese, +who would have been but too ready to lend them assistance, it would +have been doubly easy for pirates to dispatch us. All idea of +escape or rescue was out of the question. + +While these thoughts were flashing across our minds, the men kept +approaching us, and at length their leader introduced himself as the +captain of a Siamese man-of-war. He informed us, in broken English, +that he had not long arrived with the Governor of Bangkok, who was +proceeding for the rest of the way to Pekin by land. Our fears were +gradually dispelled, and we even accepted the friendly invitation of +the captain to run alongside his ship and view it, on our return. +He came in the boat with us, and took us on board, where he showed +us everything himself: the sight, however, was not a particularly +attractive one. The crew looked very rough and wild; they were all +dressed in a most slovenly and dirty manner, so that it was utterly +impossible to distinguish the officers from the common men. The +vessel mounted twelve guns and sixty-eight hands. + +The captain set before us Portuguese wine and English beer, and the +evening was far advanced before we reached home. + +The longest trip that can be made from Canton is one twenty miles up +the Pearl stream, and Mr. Agassiz was kind enough to procure me this +pleasure. He hired a good boat, which he furnished abundantly with +eatables and drinkables, and invited a missionary, who had made the +trip several times, Herr von Carlowitz, and myself. The company of +a missionary is as yet by far the safest escort in China. These +gentlemen speak the language; they become gradually acquainted with +the people, and travel about, with hardly any obstacle to speak of, +all round the vicinity of Canton. + +About a week before we had decided on going, a few young gentlemen +had endeavoured to make the same excursion, but had been fired upon +from one of the fortresses that lie on the banks of the river, and +compelled to turn back half-way. When we approached the fortress in +question, the crew of our boat refused to proceed any further, until +we had almost employed violence to make them do so. We also were +fired into, but fortunately not until we were more than half past +the fortress. Having escaped the danger, we pursued our course +without further interruption, landed at several hamlets, visited the +so-called Herren Pagoda, and took a good view of everything that was +to be seen. The scenery all round was charming, and displayed to +our view large plains with rice, sugar, and tea-plantations, +picturesque clumps of trees, lovely hills, and more elevated +mountain ranges rising in the distance. On the declivities of the +hills, we beheld a number of graves, which were marked by single, +upright stones. + +The Herren Pagoda has three stories, with a pointed roof, and is +distinguished for its external sculpture. It has no balconies +outside, but, instead of this, a triple wreath of leaves round each +story. In the first and second story, to which access is gained by +more than usually narrow stairs, are some small altars with carved +idols. We were not allowed to go into the third story, under the +excuse that there was nothing to be seen there. + +The villages we visited, resembled more or less, that we had seen +near the Half-way Pagoda. + +During this journey I was an eye-witness of the manner in which the +missionaries dispose of their religious tracts. The missionary who +had been kind enough to accompany us, took this opportunity of +distributing among the natives some seeds that should bring forth +good fruit. He had 500 tracts on board our boat, and every time +that another boat approached us, a circumstance that was of frequent +occurrence, he stretched himself as far as possible over the side +with half a dozen tracts in his hand, and made signs to the people +to approach and take them. If people did not obey his summons, we +rowed up to them, and the missionary gratified them with his tracts +in dozens, and went his way rejoicing, in anticipation of the good +which he did not doubt they would effect. + +Whenever we arrived at a village, however, matters reached even a +higher pitch. The servant was obliged to carry whole packs of +tracts, which in a moment were distributed among the crowd of +curious who had quickly gathered round us. + +Every one took what was offered to him, as it cost nothing, and if +he could not read it--the tracts were in Chinese--he had at least +got so much paper. The missionary returned home delighted; he had +disposed of his 500 copies. What glorious news for the Missionary +Society, and what a brilliant article for his religious paper, he no +doubt transmitted to Europe! + +Six young Englishmen made this same excursion up the Pearl stream +six months later, stopping at one of the villages and mixing with +the people. Unhappily, however, they all fell victims to the +fanaticism of the Chinese: they were most barbarously murdered. + +There was now no trip of any distance left but one round the walls +of the town of Canton, {108} properly so called. This, too, I was +shortly enabled to undertake through the kindness of our good friend +the missionary, who offered to come as guide to Herr von Carlowitz +and myself, under the condition, however, that I should put on male +attire. No woman had ever yet ventured to make this trip, and he +thought that I ought not to venture in my own dress; I complied with +his wish, therefore, and one fine morning early we set out. + +For some distance our road lay through narrow streets or alleys +paved with large flags. In a small niche somewhere in the front of +every house, we saw little altars from one to three feet high, +before which, as it was yet early, the night lamps were still +burning. An immense quantity of oil is unnecessarily consumed in +keeping up this religious custom. The shops now began to be opened. +They resemble neat entrance halls, having no front wall. The goods +were exposed for sale either in large open boxes or on tables, +behind which the shopkeepers sit and work. In one corner of the +shop, a narrow staircase leads up into the dwelling-house above. + +Here, as in Turkish towns, the same regulation is observed of each +trade or calling having its especial street, so that in one nothing +but crockery and glass, in another silks, and so on, is to be seen. +In the physician's street are situated all the apothecaries' shops +as well, as the two professions are united in one and the same +person. The provisions, which are very tastily arranged, have also +their separate streets. Between the houses are frequently small +temples, not differing the least, however, in style from the +surrounding buildings: the gods, too, merely occupy the ground +floor, the upper stories being inhabited by simple mortals. + +The bustle in the streets was astonishing, especially in those set +apart for the sale of provisions. Women and girls of the lower +classes went about making their purchases, just as in Europe. They +were all unveiled, and some of them waddled like geese, in +consequence of their crippled feet, which, as I before observed, +extends to all ranks. The crowd was considerably increased by the +number of porters, with large baskets of provisions on their +shoulders, running along, and praising in a loud voice their stock +in trade, or warning the people to make way for them. At other +times, the whole breadth of the street would be taken up, and the +busy stream of human beings completely stopped by the litter of some +rich or noble personage proceeding to his place of business. But +worse than all were the numerous porters we met at every step we +took, carrying large baskets of unsavoury matter. + +It is a well known fact, that there is perhaps no nation on the face +of the earth equal to the Chinese in diligence and industry, or that +profits by, and cultivates, as they do, every available inch of +ground. As, however, they have not much cattle, and consequently +but little manure, they endeavour to supply the want of it by other +means, and hence their great care of anything that can serve as a +substitute. + +All their small streets are built against the city walls, so that we +had been going round them for some time before we were aware of the +fact. Mean-looking gates or wickets, which all foreigners are +strictly prohibited from passing, and which are shut in the evening, +lead into the interior of the town. + +I was told that it has often happened for sailors, or other +strangers, during their walks, to penetrate through one of these +entrances into the interior of the town, and not discover their +mistake until the stones began flying about their ears. + +After threading our way for at least two miles through a succession +of narrow streets, we at length emerged into the open space, where +we obtained a full view of the city walls, and from the summit of a +small hill which was situated near them, a tolerably extensive one +over the town itself. The city walls are about sixty feet high, +and, for the most part, so overgrown with grass, creeping plants, +and underwood, that they resemble a magnificent mass of living +vegetation. The town resembles a chaos of small houses, with now +and then a solitary tree, but we saw neither fine streets nor +squares, nor any remarkable buildings, temples, or pagodas. A +single pagoda, five stories high, reminded us of the peculiar +character of Chinese architecture. + +Our road now lay over fertile eminences, varied with fields and +meadows in a high state of cultivation. Many of the hills are used +as cemeteries, and are dotted over with small mounds of earth, +walled in with stone flags, or rough hewn stones two feet high, +frequently covered with inscriptions. Family tombs were also to be +seen, dug in the hill, and enclosed with stone walls of the shape of +a horse-shoe. All the entrances were built up with stone. + +The Chinese do not, however, bury all their dead: they have a +remarkable way of preserving them in small stone chambers, +consisting of two stone walls and a roof, while the two other sides +are left open. In these places, there are never more than from two +to four coffins, which are placed upon wooden benches two feet high: +the coffins themselves consist of massive trunks of trees hollowed +out. + +The villages through which we passed presented an animated +appearance, but appeared poor and dirty. We were often obliged to +hold our noses in passing through the lanes and squares, and very +frequently would fain have closed our eyes as well, to avoid the +disgusting sight of people covered with eruptions of the skin, +tumours, and boils. + +In all the villages I saw poultry and swine in great numbers, but +not more than three horses and a buffalo-cow; both the horses and +the cow were of an extremely small breed. + +When we had nearly reached the end of our excursion, we met a +funeral. A horrible kind of music gave us warning that something +extraordinary was approaching, and we had hardly time to look up and +step on one side, before the procession came flying past us at full +speed. First came the worthy musicians, followed by a few Chinese, +next two empty litters carried by porters, and then the hollow trunk +of a tree, representing the coffin, hanging to a long pole, and +carried in a similar manner: last of all, were some priests and a +crowd of people. + +The chief priest wore a kind of white {110} fool's cap, with three +points; the other persons, who consisted of men alone, had a kind of +white cloth bound round their head or arm. + + +I was lucky enough to be enabled to visit some of the summer palaces +and gardens of the nobility. + +The finest of all was certainly that belonging to the Mandarin +Howqua. The house itself was tolerably spacious, one story high, +with very wide, splendid terraces. The windows looked into the +inner courts, and the roof was like those in European buildings, +only much flatter. The sloping roofs, with their multitude of +points and pinnacles, with their little bells and variegated tiles, +are only to be found in the temples and country-houses, but never in +the usual residences. At the entrance there were two painted gods: +these, according to the belief of the Chinese, keep off evil +spirits. + +The front part of the house consisted of several reception rooms, +without front walls, and immediately adjoining them, on the ground +floor, elegant parterres; and on the first floor magnificent +terraces, which were also decorated with flowers, and afforded a +most splendid view over the animated scene on the river, the +enchanting scenery around, and the mass of houses in the villages +situated about the walls of Canton. + +Neat little cabinets surrounded these rooms, from which they were +only separated by walls that in many cases were adorned with the +most artistic paintings, and through which the eye could easily +penetrate. The most remarkable of these walls were those composed +of bamboos, which were as delicate as a veil, and plentifully +ornamented with painted flowers, or beautifully written proverbs. + +A numberless quantity of chairs and a great many sofas were ranged +along the walls, from which I inferred that the Chinese are as much +accustomed to large assemblages as ourselves. I observed some arm- +chairs most skilfully cut out of a single piece of wood; others with +seats of beautiful marble-slabs; and others again of fine coloured +tiles or porcelain. Among various objects of European furniture, we +saw some handsome mirrors, clocks, vases, and tables of Florentine +mosaic, or variegated marble. There was also a most extraordinary +collection of lamps and lanterns hanging from the ceilings, and +consisting of glass, transparent horn, and coloured gauze or paper, +ornamented with glass beads, fringe, and tassels. Nor was there any +scarcity of lamps on the walls, so that when the apartments are +entirely lighted up, they must present a fairy-like appearance. + +As we had been fortunate enough to reach this house without being +stoned, we were emboldened to visit the Mandarin Howqua's large +pleasure-garden, situated on a branch of the Pearl stream, about +three-quarters of a mile from the house. We had, however, hardly +entered the branch of the river, before the crew wanted to turn +back, having observed a mandarin's junk, with all its flags hoisted, +a signal that the owner himself was on board. They were unwilling +to venture on conveying us Europeans past the vessel, for fear they +should be punished, or stoned to death, along with ourselves, by the +people. We obliged them to proceed, passed close by the junk, and +then landed, and continued our excursion on foot. A large crowd of +people soon collected in our rear, and began pushing the children up +against us, in order to excite our rage; but arming ourselves with +patience, we moved quietly on, and reached, without any accident, +the garden gates, which we instantly closed behind us. + +The garden was in a perfect state of cultivation, but without the +least pretension to taste in its arrangement. On every side were +summer-houses, kiosks, and bridges, and all the paths and open spots +were lined with large and small flower-pots, in which were flowers +and dwarfed fruit-trees of every description. + +The Chinese are certainly adepts in the art of diminishing the size +of, or rather crippling their trees, many of which very often +scarcely attain a height of three feet. These dwarf trees are very +prevalent in their gardens, and preferred to the most magnificent +and shady trees of a natural size. These lilliputian alleys can +hardly be considered in good taste, but it is most remarkable with +what a large quantity of beautiful fruit the tiny branches are +laden. + +Besides these toys we also observed figures of all descriptions, +representing ships, birds, fish, pagodas, etc., cut out of foliage. +In the heads of the animals were stuck eggs, with a black star +painted on them to represent the eyes. + +There was also no scarcity of rocks, both single and in groups, +ornamented with flower-pots, as well as little figures of men and +animals, which can be removed at pleasure, so as to form new +combinations, a kind of amusement of which the Chinese ladies are +said to be very fond. Another source of entertainment, no less +popular, as well among the ladies as the gentlemen, consists in +kite-flying, and they will sit for hours looking at their paper +monsters in the air. There is a large open spot set apart for this +purpose in the garden of every Chinese nobleman. We noticed an +abundance of running water and ponds, but we did not observe any +fountains. + +As everything had passed off so well, Herr von Carlowitz proposed +that we should go and see the garden of the Mandarin Puntiqua, which +I was very anxious to do, as the mandarin had ordered a steam-boat +to be built there by a Chinese, who had resided thirteen years in +North America, where he had studied. + +The vessel was so far advanced that it was to be launched in a few +weeks. The artist showed us his work with great satisfaction, and +was evidently very much pleased at the praise we bestowed upon him +for it. He attached great importance to his knowledge of the +English language, for when Herr von Carlowitz addressed him in +Chinese, he answered in English, and requested us to continue the +conversation in that idiom. The machinery struck us as not being +constructed with the usual degree of neatness for which the Chinese +are famous, and also appeared far too large for the small vessel for +which it was intended. Neither I nor my companion would have had +the courage to have gone in her on her experimental trip. + +The mandarin who had the vessel built, had gone to Pekin to obtain a +"button" as his reward for being the first person to launch a +steamer in the Chinese empire. The builder himself will, in all +probability, be obliged to rest contented with the consciousness of +his talent. + +From the ship-yard we proceeded to the garden, which was very large +but greatly neglected. There were neither alleys nor fruit trees, +rocks nor figures; but, to make up for these, an insufferable +quantity of summer-houses, bridges, galleries, little temples, and +pagodas. + +The dwelling-house consisted of a large hall and a number of small +chambers. The walls were ornamented, both inside and out, with +carved wood-work, and the roof abundantly decorated with points and +pinnacles. + +In the large halls plays and other entertainments are sometimes +enacted for the amusement of the ladies, who are universally +confined to their houses and gardens, which can only be visited by +strangers in their absence. {112} + +A number of peacocks, silver-pheasants, mandarin-ducks, and deer are +preserved in their gardens. In one corner was a small, gloomy +bamboo plantation, in which were some family graves; and not far off +a small earthen mound had been raised, with a wooden tablet, on +which was a long poetical inscription in honour of the favourite +snake of the mandarin, which was buried there. + +After duly inspecting everything, we set off on our road home, and +reached there in safety. + +I was not so fortunate a few days later on visiting a tea-factory. +The proprietor conducted me himself over the workshops, which +consisted of large halls, in which six hundred people, including a +great many old women and children, were at work. My entrance +occasioned a perfect revolt. Old and young rose from work, the +elder portion lifting up the younger members of the community in +their arms and pointing at me with their fingers. The whole mass +then pressed close upon me and raised so horrible a cry that I began +to be alarmed. The proprietor and his overseer had a difficult task +to keep off the crowd, and begged me to content myself with a hasty +glance at the different objects, and then to quit the building as +soon as possible. + +In consequence of this I could only manage to observe that the +leaves of the plant are thrown for a few seconds into boiling water, +and then placed in flat iron pans, fixed slantingly in stone-work, +where they are slightly roasted by a gentle heat, during which +process they are continually stirred by hand. As soon as they begin +to curl a little, they are thrown upon large planks, and each single +leaf is rolled together. This is effected with such rapidity, that +it requires a person's undivided attention to perceive that no more +than one leaf is rolled up at a time. After this, all the leaves +are placed once more in the pan. Black tea takes some time to +roast, and the green is frequently coloured with Prussian blue, an +exceedingly small quantity of which is added during the second +roasting. Last of all the tea is once more shaken out upon the +large boards, in order that it may be carefully inspected, and the +leaves that are not entirely closed are rolled over again. + +Before I left, the proprietor conducted me into his house, and +treated me to a cup of tea prepared after the fashion in which it is +usually drunk by rich and noble Chinese. A small quantity was +placed in a China cup, boiling water poured upon it, and the cup +then closed with a tightly-fitting cover. In a few seconds the tea +is then drank and the leaves left at the bottom. The Chinese take +neither sugar, rum, nor milk with their tea; they say that anything +added to it, and even the stirring of it, causes it to lose its +aroma; in my cup, however, a little sugar was put. + +The tea-plant, which I saw in the plantations round about Canton, +was at most six feet high; it is not allowed to grow any higher, and +is consequently cut at intervals. Its leaves are used from the +third to the eighth year; and the plant is then cut down, in order +that it may send forth new shoots, or else it is rooted out. There +are three gatherings in the year; the first in March, the second in +April, and the third, which lasts for three months, in May. The +leaves of the first gathering are so delicate and fine that they +might easily be taken for the blossom, which has no doubt given rise +to the error that the so-called "bloom or imperial tea" is supposed +not to consist of the leaves but of the blossom itself. {114} This +gathering is so hurtful to the plant that it often perishes. + +I was informed that the tea which comes from the neighbourhood of +Canton is the worst, and that from the provinces somewhat more to +the north the best. The tea manufacturers of Canton are said to +possess the art of giving tea that has been frequently used, or +spoiled by rain, the appearance of good tea. They dry and roast the +leaves, colour them yellow with powdered kurkumni, or light green +with Prussian blue, and then roll them tightly up. The price of the +tea sent to Europe varies from fifteen to sixty dollars (3 to 12 +pounds) a pikul, of 134 lb. English weight. The kind at sixty +dollars does not find a very ready market; the greater part of it is +exported to England. The "bloom" is not met with in trade. + +I must mention a sight which I accidentally saw, one evening, upon +the Pearl stream. It was, as I afterwards heard, a thanksgiving +festival in honour of the gods, by the owners of two junks that had +made a somewhat long sea voyage without being pillaged by pirates, +or overtaken by the dangerous typhoon. + +Two of the largest flower boats, splendidly illuminated, were +floating gently down the stream. Three rows of lamps were hung +round the upper part of the vessels, forming perfect galleries of +fire; all the cabins were full of chandeliers and lamps, and on the +forecastle large fires were burning out of which rockets darted at +intervals with a loud report, although they only attained the +elevation of a few feet. On the foremost vessel there was a large +mast erected, and hung with myriads of coloured paper lamps up to +its very top, forming a beautiful pyramid. Two boats, abundantly +furnished with torches and provided with boisterous music, preceded +these two fiery masses. Slowly did they float through the darkness +of the night, appearing like the work of fairy hands. Sometimes +they stopped, when high flames, fed with holy perfumed paper, +flickered upwards to the sky. + +Perfumed paper, which must be bought from the priests, is burnt at +every opportunity, and very frequently beforehand, after every +prayer. From the trade in this paper the greater portion of the +priests' income is derived. + +On several occasions, accompanied by Herr von Carlowitz, I took +short walks in the streets near the factory. I found the greater +pleasure in examining the beautiful articles of Chinese manufacture, +which I could here do at my leisure, as the shops were not so open +as those I saw during my excursion round the walls of Canton, but +had doors and windows like our own, so that I could walk in and be +protected from the pressure of the crowd. The streets, also, in +this quarter were somewhat broader, well paved, and protected with +mats or planks to keep off the burning heat of the sun. + +In the neighbourhood of the factory, namely in Fousch-an, where most +of the manufactories are situated, a great many places may be +reached by water, as the streets, like those in Venice, are +intersected by canals. This quarter of Canton, however, is not the +handsomest, because all the warehouses are erected on the sides of +the canals, where the different workmen have also taken up their +residence in miserable huts that, built half upon the ground and +half upon worm-eaten piles, stretch far out over the water. + +I had now been altogether, from July 13th to August 20th, five weeks +in Canton. The season was the hottest in the whole year, and the +heat was really insupportable. In the house, the glass rose as high +as 94.5 degrees, and out of doors, in the shade, as high as 99 +degrees. To render this state of things bearable, the inhabitants +use, besides the punkas in the rooms, wicker-work made of bamboo. +This wicker-work is placed before the windows and doors, or over +those portions of the roofs under which the workshops are situated. +Even whole walls are formed of it, standing about eight or ten feet +from the real ones, and provided with entrances, window-openings, +and roofs. The houses are most effectually disguised by it. + +On my return to Hong-Kong, I again set out on board a junk, but not +so fearlessly as the first time; the unhappy end of Monsieur Vauchee +was still fresh in my memory. I took the precaution of packing up +the few clothes and linen I had in the presence of the servants, +that they might be convinced that any trouble the pirates might give +themselves on my account would be thrown away. + +On the evening of the 20th of August I bade Canton, and all my +friends there, farewell; and at 9 o'clock I was once again floating +down the Si-Kiang, or Pearl stream, famous for the deeds of horror +perpetrated on it. + + + +CHAPTER IX. THE EAST INDIES--SINGAPORE. + + + +ARRIVAL IN HONG-KONG--THE ENGLISH STEAMER--SINGAPORE PLANTATIONS--A +HUNTING PARTY IN THE JUNGLE--A CHINESE FUNERAL--THE FEAST OF +LANTERNS--TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE. + +The passage from Canton to Hong-Kong was accomplished without any +circumstance worthy of notice, save the time it took, in consequence +of the prevalence of contrary winds the whole way. We were, it is +true, woke up the first night by the report of guns; but I expect +they were not fired at us, as we were not molested. My travelling +companions, the Chinese, also behaved themselves on this occasion +with the greatest politeness and decorum; and, had I been enabled to +look into the future, I would willingly have given up the English +steamer and pursued my journey as far as Singapore on board a junk. +But as this was impossible, I availed myself of the English steamer, +"Pekin," of 450 horse-power, Captain Fronson commander, which leaves +for Calcutta every month. + +As the fares are most exorbitant, {116} I was advised to take a +third-class ticket, and hire a cabin from one of the engineers or +petty officers; I was greatly pleased with the notion, and hastened +to carry it out. My astonishment, however, may be imagined when, on +paying my fare, I was told that the third-class passengers were not +respectable, that they were obliged to sleep upon deck, and that the +moon was exceedingly dangerous, etc. It was in vain that I replied +I was the best judge of my own actions; I was obliged, unless I +chose to remain behind, to pay for one of the second places. This +certainly gave me a very curious idea of English liberty. + +On the 25th of August, at 1 o'clock, P.M., I went on board. On +reaching the vessel I found no servant in the second places, and was +obliged to ask a sailor to take my luggage into the cabin. This +latter was certainly anything but comfortable. The furniture was of +the most common description, the table was covered with stains and +dirt, and the whole place was one scene of confusion. I inquired +for the sleeping cabin, and found there was but one for both sexes. +I was told to apply to one of the officials, who would no doubt +allow me to sleep somewhere else. I did so, and obtained a neat +little cabin in consequence, and the steward was kind enough to +propose that I should take my meals with his wife. I did not, +however, choose to accept the offer; I paid dearly enough, Heaven +knows, and did not choose to accept everything as a favour. +Besides, this was the first English steamer I had ever been on +board, and I was curious to learn how second-class passengers were +treated. + +The company at our table consisted not only of the passengers, of +whom there were three besides myself, but of the cooks and waiters +of the first-class places, as well as of the butcher; or, in a word, +of every one of the attendants who chose to take "pot-luck" with us. +As for any etiquette in the article of costume, that was entirely +out of the question. Sometimes one of the company would appear +without either coat or jacket; the butcher was generally oblivious +of his shoes and stockings; and it was really necessary to be +endowed with a ravenous appetite to be enabled to eat anything with +such a set. + +The bill of fare was certainly adapted to the crew and their +costume, but decidedly not to the passengers, who had to pay +thirteen dollars (2 pounds 12s.) a day each for provisions. + +The table-cloth was full of stains, and, in lieu of a napkin, each +guest was at liberty to use his handkerchief. The knives and forks +had white and black horn handles, with notched blades, and broken +prongs. On the first day we had no spoons at all; on the second we +had one between us, and this one was placed on the table in solitary +grandeur during the entire voyage. There were only two glasses, and +those of the most ordinary description, which circulated from mouth +to mouth; as I was a female, instead of my turn of the glasses, I +had, as a peculiar mark of distinction, an old tea-cup with the +handle knocked off. + +The head cook, who did the honours, pleaded in excuse for all this +discomfort, that they happened this voyage to be short of servants. +This struck me as really a little too naive, for when I paid my +money I paid for what I ought to have then, and not for what I might +have another time. + +As I said before, the provisions were execrable; the remnants of the +first cabin were sent to us poor wretches. Two or three different +things would very often be side by side in the most friendly and +brotherly manner upon one dish, even although their character was +widely different; that was looked upon as a matter of no import, +which was also the case as to whether the things came to table hot +or cold. + +On one occasion, during tea, the head cook was in unusually good +humour, and remarked, "I spare no possible pains to provide for you. +I hope you want for nothing." Two of the passengers, Englishmen, +replied, "No, that's true!" The third, who was a Portuguese, did +not understand the importance of the assertion. As a native of +Germany, not possessing the patriotic feeling of an English subject +in the matter, I should have replied very differently had I not been +a women, and if, by so replying, I could have effected a change for +the better. + +The only light we had was from a piece of tallow candle, that often +went out by eight o'clock. We were then under the necessity of +sitting in the dark or going to bed. + +In the morning the cabin served as a barber's shop, and in the +afternoon as a dormitory, where the cooks and servants, who were +half dead with sleep, used to come and slumber on the benches. + +In order to render us still more comfortable, one of the officers +pitched upon our cabin as quarters for two young puppies, who did +nothing but keep up one continued howl; he would not have dared to +put them in the sailors' cabin, because the latter would have kicked +them out without farther ceremony. + +My description will, in all probability, be considered exaggerated, +especially as there is an old opinion that the English are, above +all other people, justly celebrated for their comfort and +cleanliness. I can, however, assure my readers that I have spoken +nothing but the truth; and I will even add that, although I have +made many voyages on board steam-ships, and always paid second fare, +never did I pay so high a price for such wretched and detestable +treatment. In all my life I was never so cheated. The only +circumstance on board the ship to which I can refer with pleasure +was the conduct of the officers, who were, without exception, +obliging and polite. + +I was very much struck with the remarkable degree of patience +exhibited by my fellow-passengers. I should like to know what an +Englishman, who has always got the words "comfort" and "comfortable" +at the top of his tongue, would say, if he were treated in this +manner on board a steamer belonging to any other nation? + +For the first few days of our voyage we saw no land, and it was not +until the 28th of August that we caught sight of the rocky coast of +Cochin China. During the whole of the 29th we steered close along +the coast, but could see no signs of either human beings or +habitations, the only objects visible being richly wooded mountain- +ranges; in the evening, however, we beheld several fires, which +might have been mistaken for the signals from lighthouses, and +proved that the country was not quite uninhabited. + +During the following day we only saw a large solitary rock called +"The Shoe." It struck me as being exactly like the head of a +shepherd's dog. + +On the 2nd of September we neared Malacca. Skirting the coast are +tolerably high, well-wooded mountain-ranges, infested, according to +all accounts, by numerous tigers, that render all travelling very +dangerous. + +On the 3rd of September we ran into the port of Singapore; but it +was so late in the evening, that we could not disembark. + +On the following morning I paid a visit to the firm of Behu and +Meyer, to whom I had letters of introduction. Madame Behu was the +first German lady I had met since my departure from Hamburgh. I +cannot say how delighted I was at forming her acquaintance. I was +once more able to give free vent to my feelings in my own native +tongue. Madame Behu would not hear of my lodging in an hotel; I was +immediately installed as a member of her own amiable family. My +original plan was to have remained but a short period in Singapore, +and then proceed in a sailing vessel to Calcutta, as I had a perfect +horror of English steamers, and as I had been told that +opportunities continually presented themselves. I waited, however, +week after week in vain, until, in spite of my unwillingness, I was +obliged to embark in a comfortable English steamer at last. {118} + +The Europeans lead pretty much the same kind of life at Singapore +that they do at Canton, with this difference, however, that the +merchants reside with their families in the country, and come to +town every morning for business. Each family is obliged to keep a +large staff of servants, and the lady of the house meddles very +little in domestic matters, as these are generally altogether +entrusted to the major-domo. + +The servants are Chinese, with the exception of the seis (coachmen +or grooms), who are Bengalese. Every spring, whole shiploads of +Chinese boys, from ten to fifteen years old, come over here. They +are generally so poor that they cannot pay their passage. When this +is the case, the captain brings them over on his own account, and is +paid beforehand, by the person engaging them, their wages for the +first year. These young people live very economically, and when +they have a little money, return generally to their native country, +though many hire themselves as journeymen, and stop altogether. + +The Island of Singapore has a population of 55,000 souls, 40,000 of +whom are Chinese, 10,000 Malays, or natives, and 150 Europeans. The +number of women is said to be very small, in consequence of the +immigrants from China and India consisting only of men and boys. + +The town of Singapore and its environs contain upwards of 20,000 +inhabitants. The streets struck me as being broad and airy, but the +houses are not handsome. They are only one story high; and, from +the fact of the roof's being placed directly above the windows, +appear as if they were crushed. On account of the continual heat, +there is no glass in any of the windows, but its place is supplied +by sun-blinds. + +Every article of merchandise has here, as at Canton, if not its own +peculiar street, at least its own side of the street. The building +in which meat and vegetables are sold, is a fine handsome edifice +resembling a temple. + +As a natural result of the number of persons of different nations +congregated upon this island, there are various temples, none of +which are worthy of notice, however, with the exception of that +belonging to the Chinese. It is formed like an ordinary house, but +the roof is ornamented in the usual Chinese fashion to rather too +great an extent. It is loaded with points and pinnacles, with +circles and curves without end, all of which are formed of coloured +tiles or porcelain, and decorated with an infinity of arabesques, +flowers, dragons, and other monsters. Over the principal entrance +are small stone bas-reliefs, and both the exterior and interior of +the building can boast of a profusion of carved wood-work richly +gilt. + +Some fruit and biscuits of various descriptions, with a very small +quantity of boiled rice, were placed upon the altar of the Goddess +of Mercy. These are renewed every evening, and whatever the goddess +may leave is the perquisite of the bonzes. On the same altar lay +pretty little wooden counters cut in an oval shape, which the +Chinese toss up in the air; it is held to be a sign of ill-luck if +they fall upon the reverse side, but if they fall upon the other, +this is believed to betoken good fortune. The worthy people are in +the habit of tossing them up until they fall as desired. + +Another manner of learning the decrees of fate consists in placing a +number of thin wooden sticks in a basin, and then shaking them until +one falls out. Each of these sticks is inscribed with a certain +number, corresponding with a sentence in a book of proverbs. This +temple was more frequented by the people than those in Canton. The +counters and sticks seemed to exercise great influence over the +congregation, for it was only round them that they gathered. + +There is nothing further to be seen in the town, but the environs, +or rather the whole island, offers the most enchanting sight. The +view cannot certainly be called magnificent or grand, since one +great feature necessary to give it this character, namely, +mountains, is entirely wanting. The highest hill, on which the +governor's house and the telegraph are situated, is scarcely more +than 200 feet high, but the luxuriant verdancy, the neat houses of +the Europeans in the midst of beautiful gardens, the plantations of +the most precious spices, the elegant areca and feathered palms, +with their slim stems shooting up to a height of a hundred feet, and +spreading out into the thick feather-like tuft of fresh green, by +which they are distinguished from every other kind of palms, and, +lastly, the jungle in the back-ground, compose a most beautiful +landscape, and which appears doubly lovely to a person like myself, +just escaped from that prison ycleped Canton, or from the dreary +scenery about the town of Victoria. + +The whole island is intersected with excellent roads, of which those +skirting the sea-shore are the most frequented, and where handsome +carriages, and horses from New Holland, and even from England, +{120a} are to be seen. Besides the European carriages, there are +also certain vehicles of home manufacture called palanquins, which +are altogether closed and surrounded on all sides with jalousies. +Generally, there is but one horse, at the side of which both the +coachman and footman run on foot. I could not help expressing my +indignation at the barbarity of this custom, when I was informed +that the residents had wanted to abolish it, but that the servants +had protested against it, and begged to be allowed to run beside the +carriage rather than sit or stand upon it. They cling to the horse +or vehicle, and are thus dragged along with it. + +Hardly a day passed that we did not drive out. Twice a week a very +fine military band used to play on the esplanade close to the sea, +and the whole world of fashionables would either walk or drive to +the place to hear the music. The carriages were ranged several rows +deep, and surrounded by young beaux on foot and horseback; any one +might have been excused for imagining himself in an European city. +As for myself, it gave me more pleasure to visit a plantation, or +some other place of the kind, than to stop and look on what I had so +often witnessed in Europe. {120b} + +I frequently used to visit the plantations of nutmegs and cloves, +and refresh myself with their balsamic fragrance. The nutmeg-tree +is about the size of a fine apricot-bush, and is covered from top to +bottom with thick foliage; the branches grow very low down the stem, +and the leaves shine as if they were varnished. The fruit is +exactly similar to an apricot covered with yellowish-brown spots. +When ripe it bursts, exposing to view a round kernel about the size +of a nut, enclosed in a kind of net-work of a fine deep red: this +network is known as mace. It is carefully separated from the nutmeg +itself, and dried in the shade. While undergoing this process, it +is frequently sprinkled with sea-water, to prevent its original tint +turning black instead of yellow. In addition to this net-work, the +nutmeg is covered with a thin, soft rind. The nutmeg itself is also +dried, then smoke-dried a little, and afterwards, to prevent its +turning mouldy, dipped several times in sea-water, containing a weak +solution of lime. + +The clove-tree is somewhat smaller, and cannot boast of such +luxuriant foliage, or such fine large leaves as the nutmeg-tree. +The cloves are the buds of the tree gathered before they have had +time to blossom. They are first smoked, and then laid for a short +time in the sun. + +Another kind of spice is the areca-nut, which hangs under the crown +of the palm of the same name, in groups containing from ten to +twenty nuts each. It is somewhat larger than a nutmeg, and its +outer shell is of so bright a colour, that it resembles the gilt +nuts which are hung upon the Christmas-trees in Germany. The kernel +is almost the same colour as the nutmeg, but it has no net-work: it +is dried in the shade. + +The Chinese and natives of the place chew this nut with betel-leaf +and calcined mussel-shells. They strew the leaf with a small +quantity of the mussel-powder, to which they add a very small piece +of the nut, and make the whole into a little packet, which they put +into their mouth. When they chew tobacco at the same time, the +saliva becomes as red as blood, and their mouths, when open, look +like little furnaces, especially if, as is frequently the case with +the Chinese, the person has his teeth dyed and filed. The first +time I saw a case of the kind I was very frightened: I thought the +poor fellow had sustained some serious injury, and that his mouth +was full of blood. + +I also visited a sago manufactory. The unprepared sago is imported +from the neighbouring island of Borromeo, and consists of the pith +of a short, thick kind of palm. The tree is cut down when it is +seven years old, split up from top to bottom, and the pith, of which +there is always a large quantity, extracted; it is then freed from +the fibres, pressed in large frames, and dried at the fire or in the +sun. At this period it has still a yellowish tinge. The following +is the manner in which it is grained: The meal or pith is steeped +in water for several days, until it is completely blanched; it is +then once more dried by the fire or in the sun, and passed under a +large wooden roller, and through a hair sieve. When it has become +white and fine, it is placed in a kind of linen winnowing-fan, which +is kept damp in a peculiar manner. The workman takes a mouthful of +water, and spurts it out like fine rain over the fan, in which the +meal is alternately shaken and moistened in the manner just +mentioned, until it assumes the shape of small globules, which are +constantly stirred round in large, flat pans until they are dried, +when they are passed through a second sieve, not quite so fine as +the first, and the larger globules separated from the rest. + +The building in which the process takes place is a large shed +without walls, its roof being supported upon the trunks of trees. + +I was indebted to the kindness of the Messrs. Behu and Meyer for a +very interesting excursion into the jungle. The gentlemen, four in +number, all well provided with fowling-pieces, having determined to +start a tiger, besides which they were obliged to be prepared for +bears, wild boars, and large serpents. We drove as far as the river +Gallon, where we found two boats in readiness for us, but, before +entering them, paid a visit to a sugar-refining establishment +situated upon the banks of the river. + +The sugar-cane was piled up in stacks before the building, but there +had only been sufficient for a day's consumption, as all that +remained would have turned sour from the excessive heat. The cane +is first passed under metal cylinders, which press out all the +juice; this runs into large cauldrons, in which it is boiled and +then allowed to cool. It is afterwards placed in earthen jars, +where it becomes completely dry. + +The buildings resembled those I have described when speaking of the +preparation of sago. + +After we had witnessed the process of sugar-baking, we entered the +boats, and proceeded up the stream. We were soon in the midst of +the virgin forests, and experienced, at every stroke of the oars, +greater difficulty in forcing our passage, on account of the +numerous trunks of trees both in and over the stream. We were +frequently obliged to land and lift the boats over these trees, or +else lie flat down, and thus pass under them as so many bridges. +All kinds of brushwood, full of thorns and brambles, hung down over +our heads, and even some gigantic leaves proved a serious obstacle +to us. These leaves belonged to a sort of palm called the +Mungkuang. Near the stem they are five inches broad, but their +length is about twelve feet, and as the stream is scarcely more than +nine feet wide, they reached right across it. + +The natural beauty of the scene was so great, however, that these +occasional obstructions, so far from diminishing, actually +heightened the charm of the whole. The forest was full of the most +luxuriant underwood, creepers, palms, and fern plants; the latter, +in many instances sixteen feet high, proved a no less effectual +screen against the burning rays of the sun than did the palms and +other trees. + +My previous satisfaction was greatly augmented on seeing several +apes skipping about on the highest branches of the trees, while +others were heard chattering in our immediate vicinity. This was +the first time I had seen these animals in a state of perfect +freedom, and I secretly felt very much delighted that the gentlemen +with me did not succeed in shooting any of the mischievous little +creatures: they brought down, however, a few splendid lories (a +sort of small parrot of the most beautiful plumage) and some +squirrels. But our attention was soon attracted by a much more +serious object. We remarked in the branches of one of the trees a +dark body, which, on nearer inspection, we found to be that of a +large serpent, lying coiled up, and waiting, probably, to dart upon +its prey. We ventured pretty near, but it remained quite motionless +without turning its eyes from us, and little thinking how near its +death was. One of the gentlemen fired, and hit it in the side. As +quick as lightning, and with the greatest fury, it darted from the +tree, but remained fast, with its tail entangled in a bough. It +kept making springs at us, with its forked tongue exposed to view, +but all in vain, as we kept at a respectable distance. A few more +shots put an end to its existence, and we then pulled up under the +bough on which it was hanging. One of the boatmen, a Malay, made a +small noose of strong, tough grass, which he threw round the head of +the serpent, and thus dragged it into the boat. He also told us +that we should be sure to find a second not far off, as serpents of +this kind always go in pairs, and, true enough, the gentlemen in the +other boat had already shot the second, which was also coiled up on +the branch of a large tree. + +These serpents were of a dark green colour, with beautiful yellow +streaks, and about twelve feet in length. I was told that they +belonged to the boa species. + +After having proceeded eight English miles in four hours, we left +the boats, and following a narrow footpath, soon reached a number of +plots of ground, cleared from trees, and planted with pepper and +gambir. + +The pepper-tree is a tall bush-like plant, that, when trained and +supported with props, will attain a height varying from fifteen to +eighteen feet. The pepper grows in small, grape-like bunches, which +are first red, then green, and lastly, nearly black. The plant +begins to bear in the second year. + +White pepper is not a natural production, but is obtained by dipping +the black pepper several times in sea-water: this causes it to lose +its colour, and become a dirty white. The price of a pikul of white +pepper is six dollars (24s.), whereas that of a pikul of black is +only three dollars (12s.). + +The greatest height attained by the gambir plant is eight feet. The +leaves alone are used in trade: they are first stripped off the +stalk, and then boiled down in large coppers. The thick juice is +placed in wide wooden vessels, and dried in the sun; it is then cut +into slips three inches long and packed up. Gambir is an article +that is very useful in dyeing, and hence is frequently exported to +Europe. Pepper plantations are always to be found near a plantation +of the gambir plant, as the former are always manured with the +boiled leaves of the latter. + +Although all the work on the plantations, as well as every other +description of labour at Singapore, is performed by free labourers, +I was told that it cost less than if it were done by slaves. The +wages here are very trifling indeed; a common labourer receives +three dollars a month, without either board or lodging; and yet with +this, he is enabled not only to subsist himself, but to maintain a +family. Their huts, which are composed of foliage, they build +themselves; their food consists of small fish, roots, and a few +vegetables. Nor is their apparel more expensive; for, beyond the +immediate vicinity of the town, and where all the plantations are +situated, the children go about entirely naked, while the men wear +nothing more than a small apron about a hand's-breadth wide, and +fastened between the legs: the women are the only persons dressed +with anything like propriety. + +The plantations that we now saw, and which we reached about 10 +o'clock, were cultivated by Chinese. In addition to their huts of +leaves, they had erected a small temple, where they invited us to +alight. We immediately spread out upon the altar some refreshments, +which Madame Behu, like a good housewife, had given us; but, instead +of imitating the Chinese, and sacrificing them to the gods, we were +wicked enough to devour them ravenously ourselves. + +When we had satisfied our hunger, we skinned the serpent and then +made a present of it to the Chinese; but they gave us to understand +that they would not touch it, at which I was greatly surprised, +since they will generally eat anything. I was afterwards convinced +that this was all pretence, for on returning some hours later from +our hunting excursion and going into one of their huts, we found +them all seated round a large dish in which were pieces of roast +meat of the peculiar round shape of the serpent. They wanted to +hide the dish in a great hurry, but I entered very quickly and gave +them some money to be allowed to taste it. I found the flesh +particularly tender and delicate, even more tender than that of a +chicken. + +But I have quite forgotten to describe our hunting excursion. We +asked the labourers if they could not put us on the track of a +tiger; they described to us a part of the wood where one was +reported to have taken up his abode a few days previously, and we +immediately set off. We had great difficulty in forcing our way +through the forest, having, at every instant, to clamber over +prostrate trees, creep through brambles or cross over swamps, but we +had, at all events, the satisfaction of progressing, which we +certainly should not have had in the forests of Brazil, where such +an undertaking would have been impracticable. It is true that there +were creepers and orchids, but not in such numbers as in Brazil, and +the trees, too, stand far wider apart. We saw some splendid +specimens, towering to a height of above a hundred feet. The +objects which interested us most were the ebony and kolim trees. +The timber of the first is of two kinds, a layer of brownish-yellow +surrounding the inner stem, which composes that portion especially +known as ebony. + +The kolim-tree diffuses an excessively strong odour, similar to that +of onions, indicating its site at some distance off. The fruit +tastes extremely like onions, and is very often used by the common +people, but its odour and taste are too strong for Europeans. I +merely just touched a piece of fresh rind, and my hands smelt of it +the next morning. + +We beat about the forest for some hours without meeting the game of +which we were in search. We once thought that we had found the +lair, but we soon found that we were mistaken. One of the +gentlemen, too, affirmed that he heard the growl of a bear; it must, +however, have been a very gentle growl, as no one else heard it, +although we were all close together. + +We returned home without any further addition to our stock of game, +but highly delighted with our agreeable trip. + +Although Singapore is a small island, and all means have been used +and rewards offered for the extirpation of the tigers, they have +failed. Government gives a premium of a hundred dollars, and the +Society of Singapore Merchants a similar sum for every tiger killed. +Besides this, the valuable skin belongs to the fortunate hunter, and +even the flesh is worth something, as it is eagerly bought by the +Chinese for eating. The tigers, however, swim over from the +neighbouring peninsula of Malacca, which is only separated from +Singapore by a very narrow channel, and hence it will be impossible +to eradicate them entirely. + +The varieties of fruit found at Singapore are very numerous and +beautiful. Among the best may be reckoned the mangostan, which is +said to grow only here and in Java. It is as big as a middling- +sized apple. The rind is a deep brown on the outside and scarlet +inside, and the fruit itself is white, and divided naturally into +four or five sections: it almost melts in the mouth, and has an +exquisite flavour. The pine-apples are much more juicy, sweeter, +and considerably larger than those at Canton; I saw some which must +have weighed about four pounds. Whole fields are planted with them, +and when they arrive at full maturity, three or four hundred may be +bought for a dollar. They are often eaten with salt. There is also +another kind of fruit, "sauersop," which also often weighs several +pounds, and is green outside and white or pale yellow inside. It +very much resembles strawberries in taste, and, like them, is eaten +with wine and sugar. The gumaloh is divided into several distinct +slices, and resembles a pale yellow orange, but is not so sweet and +juicy; many people, however, prefer it; it is at least five times as +large as an orange. In my opinion, however, the palm of excellence +is borne away by the "custard apple," which is covered with small +green scales. {125} The inside, which is full of black pips, is +very white, as soft as butter, and of the most exquisite flavour. +It is eaten with the help of small spoons. + +A few days before my departure from Singapore, I had an opportunity +of witnessing the burial of a Chinese in easy circumstances. The +procession passed our house, and in spite of a temperature of 113 +degrees Fah., I went with it to the grave, which was three or four +miles distant, and was too much interested in the ceremony to leave +until it was concluded, although it lasted nearly two hours. + +At the head of the procession was a priest, and at his side a +Chinese with a lantern two feet high, covered with white cambric. +Then came two musicians, one of whom beat a small drum at intervals, +and the other played the cymbals. These persons were followed by +the coffin, with a servant holding a large open parasol over that +part of it on which the head of the deceased lay. Alongside walked +the eldest son or the nearest male relative, carrying a small white +flag, and with his hair hanging in disorder over his shoulders. The +relations were all dressed in the deepest mourning--that is to say, +entirely in white; the men had even got white caps on, and the women +were so enveloped in white cloths that it was impossible to see so +much as their faces. The friends and attendants, who followed the +coffin in small groups without order or regularity, had all got a +white strip of cambric bound round their head, their waist, or their +arm. As soon as it was remarked that I had joined the procession, a +man who had a quantity of these strips, came up and offered me one, +which I took and bound round my arm. + +The coffin, which consisted of the trunk of a large tree, was +covered with a dark-coloured cloth; a few garlands of flowers were +suspended from it, and some rice, tied up in a cloth, was placed +upon it. Four-and-twenty men bore this heavy burden on immense +poles: their behaviour was excessively lively, and every time they +changed, they began quarrelling or laughing among themselves. Nor +did the other personages in the ceremony display either grief or +respect; they ate, drank, smoked, and talked, while some carried +cold tea in small pails for the benefit of such as might be thirsty. +The son alone held himself aloof; he walked, according to custom, +plunged in deep sorrow by the side of the coffin. + +On reaching the road that led to the last resting place, the son +threw himself upon the ground, and, covering up his face, sobbed +very audibly. After a little, he got up again and tottered behind +the coffin, so that two men were obliged to support him; he appeared +very ill and deeply moved. It is true, I was afterwards informed +that this grief is mostly merely assumed, since custom requires that +the chief mourner shall be, or pretend to be, weak and ill with +sorrow. + +On arriving at the grave, which was seven feet deep, and dug on the +declivity of a hill, they laid the pall, flowers, and rice on one +side, and then, after throwing in a vast quantity of gold and silver +paper, lowered the coffin, which I then for the first time perceived +was of the finest workmanship, lacquered and hermetically closed. +At least half an hour was taken up by this part of the proceedings. +The relations at first threw themselves on the ground, and, covering +their faces, howled horribly, but finding the burial lasted rather +long, sat down in a circle all round, and taking their little +baskets of betel, burnt mussel-shells, and areca-nuts, began chewing +away with the greatest composure. + +After the coffin was lowered into the grave, one of the attendants +advanced to the upper part of it, and opened the small packet of +rice, on which he placed a sort of compass. A cord was then handed +to him. He placed it over the middle of the compass, and altered +its position until it lay exactly in the same direction as the +needle. A second cord, with a plummet attached, was then held to +the first and let down into the grave, and the coffin moved +backwards and forwards according to this line, until the middle was +in the same direction as the needle: this arrangement consumed at +least another quarter of an hour. + +After this, the coffin was covered over with numberless sheets of +white paper, and the person who had conducted the previous operation +made a short speech, during which the children of the deceased threw +themselves upon the ground. When it was finished, the speaker threw +a few handfuls of rice over the coffin and to the children, who held +up the corner of their outer garments so as to catch as many of the +grains as possible; but as they only succeeded in obtaining a few, +the speaker gave about a handful more, which they tied up carefully +in the corner of their dress, and took away with them. + +The grave was at last filled in, when the relations set up a most +dismal howl, but, as far as I could remark, every eye was dry. + +After this, boiled fowls, ducks, pork, fruit, all kinds of pastry, +and a dozen cups full of tea, together with the tea-pot, were placed +in two rows upon the grave, and six painted wax tapers lighted and +stuck in the ground near the refreshments. During all this time, +immense heaps of gold and silver paper were set fire to and +consumed. + +The eldest son now approached the grave again, and threw himself +down several times, touching the ground on each occasion with his +forehead. Six perfumed paper tapers were handed to him a-light; +when he had swung them round in the air a few times he gave them +back, when they also, in their turn, were fixed in the earth. The +other relations performed the same ceremony. + +During all this time, the priest had been sitting at a considerable +distance from the grave under the shade of a large parasol, and +without taking the slightest share in the proceedings. He now, +however, came forward, made a short speech, during which he rang a +small bell several times, and his duty was at an end. The +refreshments were cleared away, the tea poured over the grave, and +the whole company returned home in excellent spirits accompanied by +the music, which had also played at intervals over the grave. The +provisions, as I was informed, were distributed among the poor. + +On the following day I witnessed the celebrated Chinese Feast of +Lanterns. From all the houses, at the corners of the roofs, from +high posts, etc., were hung innumerable lanterns, made of paper or +gauze, and most artistically ornamented with gods, warriors, and +animals. In the courts and gardens of the different houses, or, +where there were no courts or gardens, in the streets, all kinds of +refreshments and fruit were laid out with lights and flowers, in the +form of half pyramids on large tables. The people wandered about +the streets, gardens, and courts, until nearly midnight, when the +edible portions of the pyramids were eaten by the proprietors of +them. I was very much pleased with this feast, but with no part of +it more than the quiet and orderly behaviour of the people: they +looked at all the eatables with a scrutinizing glance, but without +touching the smallest fragment. + +Singapore is situated 58' (nautical miles) north of the line, in 104 +degrees East longitude, and the climate, when compared to that of +other southern countries, is very agreeable. During the period of +my stay, extending from September 3rd to October 8th, the heat +seldom exceeded 83 degrees 75' indoors, and 117 degrees in the sun. +There is never any great variation in the temperature, which is the +natural consequence of the place being near the equator. The sun +always rises and sets at 6 A.M. and 6 P.M. respectively, and is +immediately followed by full daylight or perfect night; the twilight +hardly lasting ten minutes. + +In conclusion, I must remark that Singapore will shortly become the +central point of all the Indian steamers. Those from Hong-Kong, +Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, and Europe arrive regularly once a month; +there is likewise a Dutch war-steamer from Batavia, and in a little +time there will also be steamers running to and fro between this +place, and Manilla and Sidney. + + + +CHAPTER X. THE EAST INDIES--CEYLON. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE--THE ISLAND OF PINANG--CEYLON--POINTE DE +GALLE--EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR--COLOMBO--CANDY--THE TEMPLE OF +DAGOHA--ELEPHANT HUNT--RETURN TO COLOMBO AND POINTE DE GALLE. + +I once more embarked in an English steamer, the "Braganza," of 350 +horse power, that left Singapore for Ceylon on the 7th of October. +The distance between the two places is 1,900 miles. + +The treatment I experienced on board this vessel was, it is true, a +little different from that on board the other, although it was +nearly as bad. There were four of us in the second cabin; {128} we +dined alone, and had a mulatto servant to attend upon us. +Unfortunately, he was afflicted with elephantiasis, and his +appearance did not at all tend to whet the edge of our appetites. + +During the 7th and 8th of October, we held our course through the +Strait of Malacca, which separates Sumatra from the peninsula, and +during all this time we never lost sight of land. Malacca is, near +the coast, merely hilly; but further in the interior the hills swell +into a fine mountain range. To our left lay a number of mountainous +islands, which completely intercepted our view of Sumatra. + +But if the scenery around us was not remarkable, the spectacle on +board the vessel itself was highly interesting. The crew was +composed of seventy-nine persons, comprising Chinese, Malays, +Cingalese, Bengalese, Hindostanese, and Europeans. As a general +rule, those of each country generally took their meals separately +with their own countrymen. They all had immense plates of rice, and +little bowls full of curry; a few pieces of dried fish supplied the +place of bread. They poured the curry over the rice, and mixing the +whole together with their hands, made it into small balls which they +put into their mouths with a small piece of fish; about half their +food used generally to fall back again into their plates. + +The costume of these people was very simple. Many of them had +nothing more than a pair of short trousers on, with a dirty old +turban, and even the place of this was sometimes supplied by a +coloured rag, or a cast-off sailor's cap. The Malays wore long +cloths wound round their bodies, with one end hanging over their +shoulder. The Chinese preserved intact their usual costume and mode +of life; and the coloured servants of the ship's officers were the +only ones who were occasionally well and even elegantly dressed. +Their costume consisted of white trousers, wide upper garments, also +white, with white sashes, silk jackets, and small embroidered white +caps, or handsome turbans. + +The manner in which all these poor coloured people were treated was +certainly not in accordance with Christian principles. No one ever +addressed them but in the roughest manner, and they were kicked and +cuffed about on every occasion; even the dirtiest little European +cabin-boy on board was allowed to act in the most cruel manner, and +play off the most ignoble practical jokes upon them. Unhappy +creatures! how is it possible that they should feel any love for +Christians? + +On the 9th of October we landed on the small island of Pinang. The +town of the same name lies in the midst of a small plain, which +forms the half of an isthmus. Not far from the town rises a +picturesque mountain range. + +I received five hours' leave, which I devoted to riding about in all +directions through the town in a palanquin, and even going a little +distance into the country. All that I could see resembled what I +had already seen at Singapore. The town itself is not handsome, but +the contrary is the case with the country houses, which are all +situated in beautiful gardens. The island is intersected by a great +number of excellent roads. + +From one of the neighbouring mountains there is said to be a very +fine prospect of Pinang, a part of Malacca, and the sea, and, on the +road to the mountain, a waterfall. Unfortunately, the few hours at +my disposal did not allow me to see everything. + +The greatest portion of the population of this island consists of +Chinese, who perform all the manual labour, and engross all the +retail trade. + +On the 11th of October we saw the small island of Pulo-Rondo, which +appertains to Sumatra. We now took the shortest line across the Bay +of Bengal, and beheld land no more until we came in sight of Ceylon. + +On the afternoon of the 17th of October, we neared Ceylon. I +strained my anxious eyes to catch a glimpse of it as soon as +possible, for it is always described as being a second Eden; some go +so far as to affirm that our common father, Adam, settled there on +his expulsion from Paradise, and, as a proof of this, adduce the +fact of many places in the island, such as Adam's Peak, Adam's +Bridge, etc., still bearing his name. I breathed the very air more +eagerly, hoping, like other travellers, to inhale the fragrant +odours wafted to me from the plantations of costly spices. + +It was one of the most magnificent sights I ever beheld, to observe +the island rising gradually from the sea, and to mark the numerous +mountain ranges, which intersect Ceylon in every direction, becoming +every instant more defined, their summits still magically lighted by +the setting sun, while the thick cocoa-groves, the hills, and plains +lay enveloped in dusky night. The fragrant odours, however, were +wanting, and the vessel smelt, as usual, of nothing more than tar, +coals, steam, and oil. + +About 9 in the evening, we arrived before the harbour at Pointe de +Galle, but, as the entrance is very dangerous, we quietly hove-to +for the night. On the following morning two pilots came on board +and took us safely through the narrow passage of deep water leading +into the port. + +Hardly were we landed before we were surrounded by a crowd of people +with precious stones, pearls, tortoiseshell, and ivory articles for +sale. It is possible that a connoisseur may sometimes make a very +advantageous purchase; but I would advise those who have not much +experience in these things, not to be dazzled by the size and +splendour of the said precious stones and pearls, as the natives, +according to all accounts, have learnt from Europeans the art of +profiting as much as they can by a favourable opportunity. + +Pointe de Galle is charmingly situated: in the fore-ground are some +fine groups of rock, and in the back-ground, immediately adjoining +the little town, which is protected by fortifications, rise +magnificent forests of palms. The houses present a neat appearance; +they are low, and shaded by trees, which, in the better streets, are +planted so as to form alleys. + +Pointe de Galle is the place of rendezvous for the steamers from +China, Bombay, Calcutta, and Suez. Passengers from Calcutta, +Bombay, and Suez, do not stop more than twelve, or, at most, twenty- +four hours; but those proceeding from China to Calcutta have to wait +ten or fourteen days for the steamer that carries them to their +destination. This delay was to me very agreeable, as I profited by +it to make an excursion to Candy. + +There are two conveyances from Pointe de Galle to Colombo--the mail +which leaves every day, and a coach which starts three times a week. +The distance is seventy-three English miles, and the journey is +performed in ten hours. A place in the mail costs 1 pounds 10s., +and in the coach 13s. As I was pressed for time, I was obliged to +go by the first. The roads are excellent; not a hill, not a stone +is there to impede the rapid rate at which the horses, that are +changed every eight miles, scamper along. + +The greater portion of the road traversed thick forests of cocoa- +trees, at a little distance from the sea-shore, and the whole way +was more frequented and more thickly studded with houses than +anything I ever saw even in Europe. Village followed village in +quick succession, and so many separate houses were built between +them, that there was not a minute that we did not pass one. I +remarked also some small towns, but the only one worthy of notice +was Calturi, where I was particularly struck by several handsome +houses inhabited by Europeans. + +Along the road-side, under little roofs of palm-leaves, were placed +large earthen vessels filled with water, and near them cocoa-nut +shells to drink out of. Another measure for the accommodation of +travellers, which is no less worthy of praise, consists in the +establishment of little stone buildings, roofed in, but open at the +sides, and furnished with benches. In these buildings many +wayfarers often pass the night. + +The number of people and vehicles that we met made the journey +appear to me very short. There were specimens of all the various +races which compose the population of Ceylon. The Cingalese, +properly so called, are the most numerous, but, besides these, there +are Indians, Mahomedans, Malays, natives of Malabar, Jews, Moors, +and even Hottentots. I saw numerous instances of handsome and +agreeable physiognomies among those of the first three races; the +Cingalese youths and boys, in particular, are remarkably handsome. +They possess mild, well-formed features, and are so slim and finely +built, that they might easily be mistaken for girls; an error into +which it is the more easy to fall from their manner of dressing +their hair. They wear no covering on their head, and comb back all +their hair, which is then fastened behind by means of a comb, with a +flat, broad plate, four inches high. This kind of head-dress looks +anything but becoming in the men. The Mahomedans and Jews have more +marked features; the latter resemble the Arabs, and, like them, have +noble physiognomies. The Mahomedans and Jews, too, are easily +recognised by their shaven heads, long beards, and small white caps +or turbans. Many of the Indians, likewise, wear turbans; but the +most have only a simple piece of cloth tied round their head, which +is also the case with the natives of Malacca and Malabar. The +Hottentots allow their coal-black hair to fall in rude disorder over +their foreheads and half-way down their necks. With the exception +of the Mahomedans and Jews, none of these different people bestow +much care upon their dress. Save a small piece of cloth of about a +hand's-breadth, and fastened between their legs, they go about +naked. Those who are at all dressed, wear short trousers and an +upper garment. + +I saw very few women, and these only near their huts, which they +appear to leave less than any females with whom I am acquainted. +Their dress, also, was exceedingly simple, consisting merely of an +apron bound round their loins, a short jacket that exposed rather +than covered the upper part of their body, and a sort of rag hanging +over their head. Many were enveloped in large pieces of cloth worn +loosely about them. The borders and lobes of their ears were +pierced and ornamented with ear-rings, while on their feet and arms, +and round their necks, they wore chains and bracelets of silver, or +some other metal, and round one of their toes an extremely massive +ring. + +Any one would suppose that, in a country where the females are +allowed to show themselves so little, they would be closely wrapped +up; but this is not the case. Many had forgotten their jackets and +head coverings, especially the old women, who seemed particularly +oblivious in this respect, and presented a most repulsive appearance +when thus exposed. Among the younger ones I remarked many a +handsome and expressive face; only they, too, ought not to be seen +without their jackets, as their breasts hang down almost to their +knees. + +The complexion of the population varies from a dark to a light or +reddish brown or copper colour. The Hottentots are black, but +without that glossy appearance which distinguishes the negro. + +It is extraordinary what a dread all these half-naked people have of +the wet. It happened to commence raining a little, when they sprang +like so many rope-dancers over every little puddle, and hastened to +their huts and houses for shelter. Those who were travelling and +obliged to continue their journey, held, instead of umbrellas, the +leaves of the great fan-palm (Corypha umbraculifera) over their +heads. These leaves are about four feet broad, and can be easily +held, like fans. One of them is large enough for two persons. + +But if the natives dread the rain, they have no fear of the heat. +It is said that they run no risk from the rays of the sun, being +protected by the thickness of their skulls and the fat beneath. + +I was much struck by the peculiarity of some of the waggons, which +consisted of wooden two-wheeled cars, roofed with palm leaves +stretching out about four feet, before and behind, beyond the body +of the car. These projections serve to protect the driver from the +rain and the rays of the sun, whichever way they may chance to fall. +The oxen, of which there was always only a pair, were yoked at such +a distance from the waggon, that the driver could walk very +conveniently in the intervening space. + +I profited by the half-hour allowed for breakfast to proceed to the +sea-shore, whence I observed a number of men busily employed on the +dangerous rock in the middle of the most violent breakers. Some of +them loosened, by the aid of long poles, oysters, mussels, etc., +from the rocks, while others dived down to the bottom to fetch them +up. I concluded that there must be pearls contained inside, for I +could not suppose that human beings would encounter such risks for +the sake of the fish alone; and yet this was the case, for I found, +later, that though the same means are employed in fishing for +pearls, it is on the eastern coast and only during the months of +February and March. + +The boats employed by these individuals were of two kinds. The +larger ones, which contained about forty persons, were very broad, +and composed of boards joined together and fastened with the fibres +of the cocoa-tree; the smaller ones were exactly like those I saw in +Tahiti, save that they appeared still more dangerous. The bottom +was formed of the trunk of an extremely narrow tree, slightly +hollowed out, and the sides of the planks are kept in their places +by side and cross supports. These craft rose hardly a foot and a +half out of the water, and their greatest breadth did not average +quite a foot. There was a small piece of plank laid across as a +seat, but the rower was obliged to cross his knees from want of room +to sit with them apart. + +The road, as I before mentioned, lay for the most part through +forests of cocoa-trees, where the soil was very sandy and completely +free from creepers and underwood; but near trees that did not bear +fruit, the soil was rich, and both that and the trees covered with +creepers in wild luxuriance. There were very few orchids. + +We crossed four rivers, the Tindurch, Bentock, Cattura, and Pandura, +two by means of boats, two by handsome wooden bridges. + +The cinnamon plantations commenced about ten miles from Colombo; and +on this side of the town are all the country-houses of the +Europeans. They are very simple, shaded with cocoa-trees and +surrounded with stone walls. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we +drove over two draw-bridges and through two fortified gateways into +the town, which is far more pleasantly situated than Pointe de +Galle, on account of its nearer proximity to the beautiful mountain +ranges. + +I only stopped a night here, and on the following morning again +resumed my journey in the mail to the town of Candy, which is +distant seventy-two miles. + +We left on the 20th of October, at 5 o'clock in the morning. +Colombo is a very extensive town. We drove through a succession of +long, broad streets of handsome houses, all of which latter were +surrounded by verandahs and colonnades. I was very much startled at +the number of persons lying stretched out at full length under these +verandahs, and covered with white clothes. I at first mistook them +for corpses, but I soon perceived that their number was too great to +warrant that supposition, and I then discovered that they were only +asleep. Many, too, began to move and throw off their winding- +sheets. I was informed that the natives prefer sleeping in this +manner before the houses to sleeping inside of them. + +The Calanyganga, an important river, is traversed by a long floating +bridge; the road then branches off more and more from the sea-coast, +and the character of the scenery changes. The traveller now meets +with large plains covered with fine plantations of rice, the green +and juicy appearance of which reminded me of our own young wheat +when it first shoots up in spring. The forests were composed of +mere leaved wood, the palms becoming at every step more rare; one or +two might sometimes be seen, here and there, towering aloft like +giants, and shading everything around. I can imagine nothing more +lovely than the sight of the delicate creepers attached to the tall +stems of these palms and twining up to their very crests. + +After we had gone about sixteen miles, the country began to assume a +more hilly aspect, and we were soon surrounded by mountains on every +side. At the foot of each ascent we found extra horses in waiting +for us; these were yoked to the ordinary team, and whirled us +rapidly over all obstacles. Although there is a rise of about 2,000 +feet on the road to Candy, we performed the distance, seventy-two +miles, in eleven hours. + +The nearer we approached our destination, the more varied and +changing became the scenery. At one time we might be closely hemmed +in by the mountains, and then the next moment they would stretch +away, one above the other, while their summits seemed to contend +which should outrival the rest in altitude and beauty of outline. +They were covered, to the height of several thousand feet, with +luxuriant vegetation, which, for the most part, then generally +ceased, and gave way to the bare rock. I was not less interested, +however, with the curious teams we sometimes met, than I was with +the scenery. It is well known that Ceylon abounds in elephants, +many of which are captured and employed for various purposes. Those +that I now saw were yoked in twos or threes to large waggons, full +of stones for mending the roads. + +Four miles before reaching Candy, we came to the river +Mahavilaganga, which is spanned by a masterly bridge of one arch. +The materials of the bridge are most costly, consisting of satin- +wood. In connection with this structure, I learned the following +legend. + +After the conquest of the island by the English, the natives did not +give up the hope of once more attaining their independence, because +one of their oracles had declared that it was as impossible for the +enemy to obtain a lasting dominion over them, as it was for the +opposite banks of the Mahavilaganga to be united by a road. When +the bridge was begun, they smiled, and said that it could never be +successfully completed. At present, I was told, they think of +independence no more. + +Near the bridge is a botanical garden which I visited the following +day, and was astonished at its excellent arrangement, and the +richness of its collection of flowers, plants, and trees. + +Opposite the garden is one of the largest sugar-plantations, and, in +the neighbourhood, a number of coffee-plantations. + +In my opinion, the situation of Candy is most beautiful, but many +affirm that it is too near the mountains, and lies in a pit. At any +rate, this pit is a very lovely one, abounding in the most luxuriant +vegetation. The town itself is small and ugly, consisting of +nothing but a mass of small shops, with natives passing to and fro. +The few houses that belong to Europeans, the places of business, and +the barracks, are all outside the town, upon small hills. Large +sheets of artificial water, surrounded by splendid stone +balustrades, and shaded by alleys of the mighty tulip-tree, occupy a +portion of the valley. On the side of one of these basins, stands +the famous Buddhist temple of Dagoha, which is built in the Moorish- +Hindostanee style, and richly ornamented. + +On my leaving the coach, one of the passengers was kind enough to +recommend me a good hotel, and to call a native and direct him where +to conduct me. When I reached the hotel, the people there said that +they were very sorry, but that all their rooms were occupied. I +asked them to direct my guide to another establishment, which they +did. The rascal led me away from the town, and, pointing to a hill +which was near us, gave me to understand that the hotel was situated +behind it. I believed him, as all the houses are built far apart; +but on ascending the hill, I found nothing but a lonely spot and a +wood. I wished to turn back, but the fellow paid no attention to my +desire, and continued walking towards the wood. I then snatched my +portmanteau from him, and refused to proceed any further. He +endeavoured to wrest it from me, when, luckily, I saw in the +distance two English soldiers, who hastened up in answer to my +cries, and, on seeing this, the fellow ran off. I related my +adventure to the soldiers, who congratulated me on the recovery of +my luggage, and conducted me to the barracks, where one of the +officers was kind enough to give orders that I should be conducted +to another hotel. + +My first visit was to the temple of Dagoha, which contains a +valuable relic of the god Buddha, namely, one of his teeth, and, +together with the out-buildings, is surrounded by a wall. The +circumference of the principal temple is not very considerable, and +the sanctuary, which contains the tooth, is a small chamber hardly +twenty feet broad. Within this place all is darkness, as there are +no windows, and inside the door, there is a curtain, to prevent the +entry of any light. The walls and ceiling are covered with silk +tapestry, which, however, has nothing but its antiquity to recommend +it. It is true that it was interwoven with gold thread, but it +appeared never to have been especially costly, and I cannot believe +that it ever produced that dazzling effect which some travellers +have described. Half of the chamber was engrossed by a large table, +or kind of altar, inlaid with plates of silver, and ornamented round +the edges with precious stones. On it stands a bell-shaped case, +measuring at the bottom at least three feet in diameter, and the +same in height. It is made of silver thickly gilt, and decorated +with a number of costly jewels; there is a peacock in the middle +entirely formed of precious stones; but all these treasures fail to +produce any very great effect, from the clumsy and inartistic +fashion in which they are set. + +Under the large case there are six smaller ones, said to be of pure +gold; under the last is the tooth of the all-powerful divinity. The +outer case is secured by means of three locks, two of the keys +belonging to which used to be kept by the English governor, while +the third remained in the custody of the chief priest of the temple. +A short time previous to my visit, however, the government had +restored the two keys to the natives with great solemnities, and +they are now confided to one of the native Radschas, or princes. + +The relic itself is only shown to a prince or some other great +personage; all other people must be content to believe the priest, +who, for a small gratuity, has the politeness to describe the size +and beauty of the tooth. The dazzling whiteness of its hue is said +to eclipse that of ivory, while its form is described as being more +beautiful than anything of the kind ever beheld, and its size to +equal that of the tooth of an immense bullock. + +An immense number of pilgrims come here every year to pay their +adoration to this divine tooth. + +"Where ignorance is bliss, 't is folly to be wise." How many people +are there among us Christians who believe things which require quite +as great an amount of faith? For instance, I remember witnessing, +when I was a girl, a festival at Calvaria, in Gallicia, which is +still celebrated every year. A great multitude of pilgrims go there +to obtain splinters of the true cross. The priests manufacture +little crosses of wax, on which, as they assure the faithful, they +stick splinters of the real one. These little crosses, wrapped up +in paper and packed in baskets, are placed ready for distribution, +that is, for sale. Every peasant generally takes three: one to put +in his room, one in his stable, and another in his barn. The most +wonderful portion of the business is that these crosses must be +renewed every year, as in that period they lose their divine power. + +But let me return to Candy. In a second temple, adjoining that in +which the relic is preserved, are two gigantic hollow statues of the +god Buddha in a sitting posture, and both are said to be formed of +the finest gold. Before these colossi stand whole rows of smaller +Buddhas, of crystal, glass, silver, copper, and other materials. In +the entrance hall, likewise, are several stone statues of different +gods, with other ornaments, most of them roughly and stiffly +executed. In the middle stands a small plain monument of stone, +resembling a bell turned upside down; it is said to cover the grave +of a Brahmin. + +On the outer walls of the principal temple are wretched daubs in +fresco, representing the state of eternal punishment. Some of the +figures are being roasted, twitched with red-hot pincers, partly +baked, or forced to swallow fire. Others again, are jammed between +rocks, or having pieces of flesh cut out of their bodies, etc., but +fire appears to play the principal part in these punishments. + +The doors of the principal temple are made of metal, and the door +posts of ivory. On the first are the most beautiful arabesques in +basso-relief, and on the second, in inlaid work, representing +flowers and other objects. Before the principal entrance, four of +the largest elephant's teeth ever found are stuck up by way of +ornament. + +Ranged round the court-yard are the tents of the priests, who always +go about with bare, shaven heads, and whose costume consists of a +light yellow upper garment, which nearly covers the whole body. It +is said that there were once 500 officiating priests in this temple; +at present the divinity is obliged to content himself with a few +dozen. + +The chief part of the religious ceremonies of the Buddhists consists +in presents of flowers and money. Every morning and evening a most +horrible instrument, fit to break the drum of one's ear, and called +a tam-tam, together with some shrill trumpets and fifes, is played +before the door of the temple. To this soon succeeds a crowd of +people from all sides, bringing baskets full of the most beautiful +flowers, with which the priests adorn the altars, and that in a +manner so elegant and tasty, that it cannot be surpassed. + +Besides this temple, there are several others in Candy, but only one +worth noticing. This is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, out +of which has been hewn a statue of Buddha, thirty-six feet high, and +over this is built the temple, which is small and elegant. The god +is painted with the most glaring colours. The walls of the temple +are covered with handsome red cement, and portioned out into small +panels, in all of which the god Buddha appears al fresco. There are +also a few portraits of Vischnu, another god. The colours on the +southern wall of the temple are remarkable for their fine state of +preservation. + +Here, likewise, there is a funeral monument, like that of the Temple +of Dagoha, not however, in the building itself, but under the lofty +firmament of heaven, and shaded by noble trees. + +Attached to the temples are frequently schools, in which the priests +fulfil the duties of teachers. Near this particular temple, we saw +about a dozen boys--girls are not allowed to attend school--busy +writing. The copies for them were written very beautifully, by +means of a stylus, on small palm-leaves, and the boys used the same +material. + +It is well worth any person's while to walk to the great valley +through which the Mahavilaganga flows. It is intersected with a +countless number of wave-like hills, many of which form regular +terraces, and are planted with rice or coffee. Nature is here young +and vigorous, and amply rewards the planter's toil. The darker +portions of the picture are composed of palms or other trees, and +the back-ground consists partly of towering mountains, in a holiday +suit of green velvet, partly of stupendous and romantic rocks in all +their gloomy nakedness. + +I saw many of the principal mountains in Ceylon--giants, 8,000 feet +high; but, unfortunately, not the most celebrated one, Adam's Peak, +which has an altitude of 6,500 feet, and which, towards the summit +is so steep, that it was necessary, in order to enable any one to +climb up, to cut small steps in the rock, and let in an iron chain. + +But the bold adventurer is amply repaid for his trouble. On the +flat summit of the rock is the imprint of a _small_ foot, five feet +long. The Mahomedans suppose it to be that of our vigorous +progenitor, Adam, and the Buddhists that of their large-toothed +divinity, Buddha. Thousands of both sects flock to the place every +year, to perform their devotions. + +There still exists at Candy the palace of the former king, or +emperor of Ceylon. It is a handsome stone building, but with no +peculiar feature of its own; I should have supposed that it had been +built by Europeans. It consists of a ground floor, somewhat raised, +with large windows, and handsome porticoes resting upon columns. +The only remarkable thing about it is a large hall in the interior, +with its walls decorated with some rough and stiffly executed +representations of animals in relief. Since the English deposed the +native sovereign, the palace has been inhabited by the English +resident, or governor. + +Had I only arrived a fortnight sooner, I should have witnessed the +mode of hunting, or rather snaring, elephants. The scene of +operations is a spot on the banks of some stream or other, where +these animals go to drink. A large place is enclosed with posts, +leading up to which, and also skirted by stout posts, are a series +of narrow passages. A tame elephant, properly trained, is then made +fast in the middle of the large space, to entice by his cries the +thirsty animals, who enter unsuspiciously the labyrinth from which +they cannot escape, as the hunters and drivers follow, alarm them by +their shouts, and drive them into the middle of the enclosure. The +finest are taken alive, by being deprived of food for a short time. +This renders them so obedient, that they quietly allow a noose to be +thrown over them, and then follow the tame elephant without the +least resistance. The others are then either killed or set at +liberty, according as they possess fine tusks or not. + +The preparations for capturing these animals sometimes last several +weeks, as, besides enclosing the spot selected, a great many persons +are employed to hunt up the elephants far and wide, and drive them +gradually to the watering place. + +Persons sometimes go elephant-hunting, armed merely with firearms; +but this is attended with danger. The elephant, as is well known, +is easily vulnerable in one spot only,--the middle of the skull. If +the hunter happens to hit the mark, the monster lies stretched +before him at the first shot; but if he misses, then woe to him, for +he is speedily trampled to death by the enraged beast. In all other +cases the elephant is very peaceable, and is not easily induced to +attack human beings. + +The Europeans employ elephants to draw and carry burdens--an +elephant will carry forty hundred-weight; but the natives keep them +more for show and riding. + +I left Candy after a stay of three days, and returned to Colombo, +where I was obliged to stop another day, as it was Sunday, and there +was no mail. + +I profited by this period to visit the town, which is protected by a +strong fort. It is very extensive; the streets are handsome, broad, +and clean; the houses only one story high, and surrounded by +verandahs and colonnades. The population is reckoned at about +80,000 souls, of whom about 100 are Europeans, exclusive of the +troops, and 200 descendants of Portuguese colonists, who founded a +settlement here some centuries ago. The complexion of the latter is +quite as dark as that of the natives themselves. + +In the morning I attended mass. The church was full of Irish +soldiers and Portuguese. The dress of the Portuguese was extremely +rich; they wore ample robes with large folds, and short silk +jackets; in their ears hung ear-rings of pearls and diamonds, and +round their necks, arms, and even ankles, were gold and silver +chains. + +In the afternoon I took a walk to one of the numerous cinnamon +plantations round Colombo. The cinnamon tree or bush is planted in +rows; it attains at most a height of nine feet, and bears a white, +scentless blossom. From the fruit, which is smaller than an acorn, +oil is obtained by crushing and boiling it; the oil then disengages +itself and floats on the top of the water. It is mixed with cocoa- +oil and used for burning. + +There are two cinnamon harvests in the course of the year. The +first and principal one takes place from April to July, and the +second from November to January. The rind is peeled from the +branches by means of knives, and then dried in the sun; this gives +it a yellowish or brownish tint. The best cinnamon is a light +yellow, and not thicker than pasteboard. + +The essential oil of cinnamon, used in medicine, is extracted from +the plant itself, which is placed in a vessel full of water, and +left to steep for eight to ten days. The whole mass is then +transferred to a retort and distilled over a slow fire. In a short +time, on the surface of the water thus distilled a quantity of oil +collects, and this is then skimmed off with the greatest care. + +In the animal kingdom, besides the elephants, I was much struck by +the number and tameness of the ravens of Ceylon. In every small +town and village may be seen multitudes of these birds, that come up +to the very doors and windows and pick up everything. They play the +part of scavengers here, just as dogs do in Turkey. The horned +cattle are rather small, with humps between the shoulder-blades; +these humps consist of flesh and are considered a great dainty. + +In Colombo and Pointe de Galle there are likewise a great many large +white buffaloes, belonging to the English government, and imported +from Bengal. They are employed in drawing heavy loads. + +Under the head of fruit, I may mention the pine-apple as being +particularly large and good. + +I found the temperature supportable, especially in the high country +round about Candy, where, after some heavy rain, it might almost be +called cold. In the evening and morning the thermometer stood as +low as 61 degrees 25' Fah.; and in the middle of the day and in the +sun, it did not rise above 79 degrees 25'. In Colombo and Pointe de +Galle, the weather was fine, and the heat reached 95 degrees Fah. + +On the 26th of October I again reached Pointe de Galle, and on the +following day I embarked in another English steamer for India. + + + +CHAPTER XI. MADRAS AND CALCUTTA. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM CEYLON--MADRAS--CALCUTTA--MODE OF LIFE OF THE +EUROPEANS--THE HINDOOS--PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE TOWN-- +VISIT TO A BABOO--RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS OF THE HINDOOS--HOUSES OF +DEATH AND PLACES FOR BURNING THE DEAD--MAHOMEDAN AND EUROPEAN +MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. + +On the afternoon of the 27th of October I went on board the +steamship "Bentinck," of 500 horse-power; but we did not weigh +anchor much before evening. + +Among the passengers was an Indian prince of the name of Schadathan, +who had been made prisoner by the English for breaking a peace he +had concluded with them. He was treated with all the respect due to +his rank, and he was allowed his two companions, his mundschi, or +secretary, and six of his servants. They were all dressed in the +Oriental fashion, only, instead of turbans, they wore high, round +caps, composed of pasteboard covered with gold or silver stuff. +They wore also luxuriant long black hair, and beards. + +The companions of the prince took their meals with the servants. A +carpet was spread out upon the deck, and two large dishes, one +containing boiled fowls, and the other pillau, placed upon it; the +company used their hands for knives and forks. + +28th October. We still were in sight of the fine dark mountain +ranges of Ceylon. Now and then, too, some huge detached groups of +rocks would be visible towering above the waves. + +29th October. Saw no land. A few whales betrayed their presence by +the showers of spray they spouted up, and immense swarms of flying +fish were startled by the noise of our engines. + +On the morning of the 30th of October we came in sight of the Indian +continent. We soon approached near enough to the shore to +distinguish that it was particularly remarkable for its beauty, +being flat and partly covered with yellow sand; in the back-ground +were chains of low hills. + +At 1 o'clock, P.M., we anchored at a considerable distance (six +miles) from Madras. The anchoring place here is the most dangerous +in the world, the ground-swell being so strong that at no time can +large vessels approach near the town, and many weeks often pass +without even a boat being able to do so. Ships, consequently, only +stop a very short time, and there are rarely more than a dozen to be +seen riding at anchor. Large boats, rowed by ten or twelve men, +come alongside them to take the passengers, letters, and merchandise +ashore. + +The steamer stops here eight hours, which may be spent in viewing +the town, though any one so doing runs a chance of being left +behind, as the wind is constantly changing. I trusted to the good +luck which had always attended me during my travels, and made one of +the party that disembarked; but we had not got more than half way to +land when I was punished for my curiosity. It began to rain most +fearfully, and we were very soon wet to the skin. We took refuge in +the first coffee-house we saw, situated at the water's edge; the +rain had now assumed a tropical character, and we were unable to +leave our asylum. As soon as the storm had passed by, a cry was +raised for us to return as quickly as possible, as there was no +knowing what might follow. + +A speculative baker of Madras had come out in the first boat that +reached the steamer with ice and biscuits for sale, which he +disposed of very much to his profit. + +The angry heavens at length took compassion on us and cleared up +before sunset. We were then enabled to see the palace-like +dwellings of the Europeans, built half in the Grecian and half in +the Italian style of architecture, stretching along the shore and +beautifully lighted by the sun. Besides these, there were others +standing outside the town in the midst of magnificent gardens. + +Before we left, a number of natives ventured to us in small boats +with fruit, fish, and other trifles. Their boats were constructed +of the trunks of four small trees, tightly bound together with thin +ropes made of the fibres of the cocoa-tree; a long piece of wood +served as an oar. The waves broke so completely over them that I +imagined every instant that both boats and men were irretrievably +lost. + +The good people were almost in a state of nature, and seemed to +bestow all their care on their heads, which were covered with pieces +of cloth, turbans, cloth or straw caps, or very high and peaked +straw hats. The more respectable--among whom may be reckoned the +boatmen who brought the passengers and mails--were, however, in many +cases, very tastily dressed. They had on neat jackets, and large +long pieces of cloth wrapped round their bodies; both the cloths and +jackets were white, with a border of blue stripes. On their heads +they wore tightly fitting white caps, with a long flap hanging down +as far as their shoulders. These caps, too, had a blue border. The +complexion of the natives was a dark brown or coffee colour. + +Late in the evening, a native woman came on board with her two +children. She had paid second-class fare, and was shown a small +dark berth not far from the first cabin places. Her younger child +had, unfortunately, a bad cough, which prevented some rich English +lady, who had likewise a child with her, from sleeping. Perhaps the +exaggerated tenderness which this lady manifested for her little son +caused her to believe that the cough might be catching; but, be that +as it may, the first thing she did on the following morning, was to +beg that the captain would transfer mother and children to the deck, +which the noble-hearted humane captain immediately did, neither the +lady nor himself caring in the least whether the poor mother had or +had not, even a warm coverlid to protect her sick child from the +night cold and the frequent heavy showers. + +Would that this rich English lady's child had only been ill, and +exposed with her to the foggy night air, that she might herself have +experienced what it is to be thus harshly treated! A person of any +heart must almost feel ashamed at belonging to a class of beings who +allow themselves to be far surpassed in humanity and kindness by +those who are termed savages; no savages would have thus thrust +forth a poor woman with a sick child, but would, on the contrary, +have taken care of both. It is only Europeans, who have been +brought up with Christian principles, who assume the right of +treating coloured people according as their whim or fancy may +dictate. + +On the 1st and 2nd of November we caught occasional glimpses of the +mainland, as well as of several little islands; but all was flat and +sandy, without the least pretensions to natural beauty. Ten or +twelve ships, some of them East Indiamen of the largest size, were +pursuing the same route as ourselves. + +On the morning of the 3rd of November, the sea had already lost its +own beautiful colour, and taken that of the dirty yellow Ganges. +Towards evening we had approached pretty close to the mouths of this +monster river, for some miles previous to our entering which, the +water had a sweet flavour. I filled a glass from the holy stream, +and drank it to the health of all those near and dear to me at home. + +At 5 o'clock in the afternoon, we cast anchor before Kadscheri, at +the entrance of the Ganges, it being too late to proceed to +Calcutta, which is sixty nautical miles distant. The stream at this +point was several miles broad, so that the dark line of only one of +its banks was to be seen. + +4th November. In the morning we entered the Hoogly, one of the +seven mouths of the Ganges. A succession of apparently boundless +plains lay stretched along on both sides of the river. Fields of +rice were alternated with sugar plantations, while palm, bamboo, and +other trees, sprung up between, and the vegetation extended, in +wanton luxuriance, down to the very water's edge; the only objects +wanting to complete the picture were villages and human beings, but +it was not until we were within about five-and-twenty miles of +Calcutta that we saw now and then a wretched village or a few half- +naked men. The huts were formed of clay, bamboos, or palm branches, +and covered with tiles, rice-straw, or palm leaves. The larger +boats of the natives struck me as very remarkable, and differed +entirely from those I saw at Madras. The front portion was almost +flat, being elevated hardly half a foot above the water while the +stern was about seven feet high. + +The first grand-looking building, a cotton mill, is situated fifteen +miles below Calcutta, and a cheerful dwelling-house is attached. +From this point up to Calcutta, both banks of the Hoogly are lined +with palaces built in the Greco-Italian style, and richly provided +with pillars and terraces. We flew too quickly by, unfortunately, +to obtain more than a mere passing glimpse of them. + +Numbers of large vessels either passed us or were sailing in the +same direction, and steamer after steamer flitted by, tugging +vessels after them; the scene became more busy and more strange, +every moment, and everything gave signs that we were approaching an +Asiatic city of the first magnitude. + +We anchored at Gardenrich, four miles below Calcutta. Nothing gave +me more trouble during my travels than finding lodgings, as it was +sometimes impossible by mere signs and gestures to make the natives +understand where I wanted to go. In the present instance, one of +the engineers interested himself so far in my behalf as to land with +me, and to hire a palanquin, and direct the natives where to take +me. + +I was overpowered by feelings of the most disagreeable kind the +first time I used a palanquin. I could not help feeling how +degrading it was to human beings to employ them as beasts of burden. + +The palanquins are five feet long and three feet high, with sliding +doors and jalousies: in the inside they are provided with +mattresses and cushions, so that a person can lie down in them as in +a bed. Four porters are enough to carry one of them about the town, +but eight are required for a longer excursion. They relieve each +other at short intervals, and run so quickly that they go four miles +in an hour or even in three-quarters of an hour. These palanquins +being painted black, looked like so many stretchers carrying corpses +to the churchyard or patients to the hospital. + +On the road to the town, I was particularly struck with the +magnificent gauths (piazzas), situated on the banks of the Hoogly, +and from which broad flights of steps lead down to the river. +Before these gauths are numerous pleasure and other boats. + +The most magnificent palaces lay around in the midst of splendid +gardens, into one of which the palanquin-bearers turned, and set me +down under a handsome portico before the house of Herr Heilgers, to +whom I had brought letters of recommendation. The young and amiable +mistress of the house greeted me as a countrywoman (she was from the +north and I from the south of Germany), and received me most +cordially. I was lodged with Indian luxury, having a drawing-room, +a bed-room, and a bath-room especially assigned to me. + +I happened to arrive in Calcutta at the most unfavourable period +possible. Three years of unfruitfulness through almost the whole of +Europe had been followed by a commercial crisis, which threatened +the town with entire destruction. Every mail from Europe brought +intelligence of some failure, in which the richest firms here were +involved. No merchant could say, "I am worth so much;"--the next +post might inform him that he was a beggar. A feeling of dread and +anxiety had seized every family. The sums already lost in England +and this place were reckoned at thirty millions of pounds sterling, +and yet the crisis was far from being at an end. + +Misfortunes of this kind fall particularly hard upon persons who, +like the Europeans here, have been accustomed to every kind of +comfort and luxury. No one can have any idea of the mode of life in +India. Each family has an entire palace, the rent of which amounts +to two hundred rupees (20 pounds), or more, a month. The household +is composed of from twenty-five to thirty servants; namely--two +cooks, a scullion, two water-carriers, four servants to wait at +table, four housemaids, a lamp-cleaner, and half-a-dozen seis or +grooms. Besides this, there are at least six horses, to every one +of which there is a separate groom; two coachmen, two gardeners, a +nurse and servant for each child, a lady's maid, a girl to wait on +the nurses, two tailors, two men to work the punkahs, and one +porter. The wages vary from four to eleven rupees (8s. to 1 pounds +2s.) a month. None of the domestics are boarded, and but few of +them sleep in the house: they are mostly married, and eat and sleep +at home. The only portion of their dress which they have given to +them is their turban and belt; they are obliged to find the rest +themselves, and also to pay for their own washing. The linen +belonging to the family is never, in spite of the number of +servants, washed at home, but is all put out, at the cost of three +rupees (6s.) for a hundred articles. The amount of linen used is +something extraordinary; everything is white, and the whole is +generally changed twice a day. + +Provisions are not dear, though the contrary is true of horses, +carriages, furniture, and wearing apparel. The last three are +imported from Europe; the horses come either from Europe, New +Holland, or Java. + +In some European families I visited there were from sixty to seventy +servants, and from fifteen to twenty horses. + +In my opinion, the Europeans themselves are to blame for the large +sums they have to pay for servants. They saw the native princes and +rajahs surrounded by a multitude of idle people, and, as Europeans, +they did not wish to appear in anyway inferior. Gradually the +custom became a necessity, and it would be difficult to find a case +where a more sensible course is pursued. + +It is true that I was informed that matters could never be altered +as long as the Hindoos were divided into castes. The Hindoo who +cleans the room would on no account wait at table, while the nurse +thinks herself far too good ever to soil her hands by cleaning the +child's washing-basin. There may certainly be some truth in this, +but still every family cannot keep twenty, thirty, or even more +servants. In China and Singapore, I was struck with the number of +servants, but they are not half, nay, not a third so numerous, as +they are here. + +The Hindoos, as is well known, are divided into four castes--the +Brahmins, Khetries, Bices and Sooders. They all sprung from the +body of the god Brahma: the first from his mouth, the second from +his shoulders, the third from his belly and thighs, and the fourth +from his feet. From the first class are chosen the highest officers +of state, the priests, and the teachers of the people. Members of +this class alone are allowed to peruse the holy books; they enjoy +the greatest consideration; and if they happen to commit a crime, +are far less severely punished than persons belonging to any of the +other castes. The second class furnishes the inferior officials and +soldiers; the third the merchants, workmen, and peasants; while the +fourth and last provides servants for the other three. Hindoos of +all castes, however, enter service when compelled by poverty to do +so, but there is still a distinction in the kind of work, as the +higher castes are allowed to perform only that of the cleanest kind. + +It is impossible for a person of one caste to be received into +another, or to intermarry with any one belonging to it. If a Hindoo +leaves his native land or takes food from a Paria, he is turned out +of his caste, and can only obtain re-admission on the payment of a +very large sum. + +Besides these castes, there is a fifth class--the Parias. The lot +of these poor creatures is the most wretched that can be imagined. +They are so despised by the other four castes, that no one will hold +the slightest intercourse with them. If a Hindoo happens to touch a +Paria as he is passing, he thinks himself defiled, and is obliged to +bathe immediately. + +The Parias are not allowed to enter any temple, and have particular +places set apart for their dwellings. They are miserably poor, and +live in the most wretched huts; their food consists of all kinds of +offal and even diseased cattle; they go about nearly naked, or with +only a few rags at most on them, and perform the hardest and +commonest work. + +The four castes are subdivided into an immense number of sects, +seventy of which are allowed to eat meat, while others are compelled +to abstain from it altogether. Strictly speaking, the Hindoo +religion forbids the spilling of blood, and consequently the eating +of meat; but the seventy sects just mentioned are an exception. +There are, too, certain religious festivals, at which animals are +sacrificed. A cow, however, is never killed. The food of the +Hindoos consists principally of rice, fruit, fish, and vegetables. +They are very moderate in their living, and have only two simple +meals a day--one in the morning and the other in the evening. Their +general drink is water or milk, varied sometimes with cocoa wine. + +The Hindoos are of the middle height, slim, and delicately formed; +their features are agreeable and mild; the face is oval, the nose +sharply chiselled, the lip by no means thick, the eye fine and soft, +and the hair smooth and black. Their complexion varies, according +to the locality, from dark to light brown; among the upper classes, +some of them, especially the women, are almost white. + +There are a great number of Mahomedans in India; and as they are +extremely skilful and active, most trades and professions are in +their hands. They also willingly hire themselves as servants to +Europeans. + +Men here do that kind of work which we are accustomed to see +performed by women. They embroider with white wool, coloured silk, +and gold; make ladies' head-dresses, wash and iron, mend the linen, +and even take situations as nurses for little children. There are a +few Chinese, too, here, most of whom are in the shoemaking trade. + +Calcutta, the capital of Bengal, is situated on the Hoogly, which at +this point is so deep and broad, that the largest men-of-war and +East Indiamen can lie at anchor before the town. The population +consists of about 600,000 souls, of whom, not counting the English +troops, hardly more than 2,000 are Europeans and Americans. The +town is divided into several portions--namely, the Business-town, +the Black-town, and the European quarter. The Business-town and +Black-town are very ugly, containing narrow, crooked streets, filled +with wretched houses and miserable huts, between which there are +warehouses, counting-houses, and now and then some palace or other. +Narrow paved canals run through all the streets, in order to supply +the necessary amount of water for the numerous daily ablutions of +the Hindoos. The Business-town and Black-town are always so densely +crowded, that when a carriage drives through, the servants are +obliged to get down and run on before, in order to warn the people, +or push them out of the way. + +The European quarter of the town, however, which is often termed the +City of Palaces--a name which it richly merits--is, on the contrary, +very beautiful. Every good-sized house, by the way, is called, as +it is in Venice, a palace. Most of these palaces are situated in +gardens surrounded by high walls; they seldom join one another, for +which reason there are but few imposing squares or streets. + +With the exception of the governor's palace, none of these buildings +can be compared for architectural beauty and richness with the large +palaces of Rome, Florence, and Venice. Most of them are only +distinguished from ordinary dwelling-houses by a handsome portico +upon brick pillars covered with cement, and terrace-like roof's. +Inside, the rooms are large and lofty, and the stairs of greyish +marble or even wood; but neither in doors or out are there any fine +statues or sculptures. + +The Palace of the governor is as I before said, a magnificent +building--one that would be an ornament to the finest city in the +world. It is built in the form of a horse-shoe, with a handsome +cupola in the centre: the portico, as well as both the wings, is +supported upon columns. The internal arrangements are as bad as can +possibly be imagined; the supper-room being, for instance, a story +higher than the ball-room. In both these rooms there is a row of +columns on each side, and the floor of the latter is composed of +Agra marble. The pillars and walls are covered with a white cement, +which is equal to marble for its polish. The private rooms are not +worth looking at; they merely afford the spectator an opportunity of +admiring the skill of the architect, who has managed to turn the +large space at his command to the smallest imaginable profit. + +Among the other buildings worthy of notice are the Town-hall, the +Hospital, the Museum, Ochterlony's Monument, the Mint, and the +English Cathedral. + +The Town-hall is large and handsome. The hall itself extends +through one entire story. There are a few monuments in white marble +to the memory of several distinguished men of modern times. It is +here that all kinds of meetings are held, all speculations and +undertakings discussed, and concerts, balls, and other +entertainments given. + +The Hospital consists of several small houses, each standing in the +midst of a grass plot. The male patients are lodged in one house, +the females and children in a second, while the lunatics are +confined in the third. The wards were spacious, airy, and +excessively clean. Only Christians are received as patients. + +The hospital for natives is similar, but considerably smaller. The +patients are received for nothing, and numbers who cannot be +accommodated in the building itself are supplied with drugs and +medicines. + +The Museum, which was only founded in 1836, possesses, considering +the short space of time that has elapsed since its establishment, a +very rich collection, particularly of quadrupeds and skeletons, but +there are very few specimens of insects, and most of those are +injured. In one of the rooms is a beautifully-executed model of the +celebrated Tatch in Agra; several sculptures and bas-reliefs were +lying around. The figures seemed to me very clumsy; the +architecture, however, is decidedly superior. The museum is open +daily. I visited it several times, and, on every occasion, to my +great astonishment, met a number of natives, who seemed to take the +greatest interest in the objects before them. + +Ochterlony's Monument is a simple stone column, 165 feet in height, +standing, like a large note of admiration, on a solitary grassplot, +in memory of General Ochterlony, who was equally celebrated as a +statesman and a warrior. Whoever is not afraid of mounting 222 +steps will be recompensed by an extensive view of the town, the +river, and the surrounding country; the last, however, is very +monotonous, consisting of an endless succession of plains bounded +only by the horizon. + +Not far from the column is a neat little mosque, whose countless +towers and cupolas are ornamented with gilt metal balls, which +glitter and glisten like so many stars in the heavens. It is +surrounded by a pretty court-yard, at the entrance of which those +who wish to enter the mosque are obliged to leave their shoes. I +complied with this regulation, but did not feel recompensed for so +doing, as I saw merely a small empty hall, the roof of which was +supported by a few stone pillars. Glass lamps were suspended from +the roof and walls, and the floor was paved with Agra marble, which +is very common in Calcutta, being brought down the Ganges. + +The Mint presents a most handsome appearance; it is built in the +pure Grecian style, except that it is not surrounded by pillars on +all its four sides. The machinery in it is said to be especially +good, surpassing anything of the kind to be seen even in Europe. I +am unable to express any opinion on the subject, and can only say +that all I saw appeared excessively ingenious and perfect. The +metal is softened by heat and then flattened into plates by means of +cylinders. These plates are cut into strips and stamped. The rooms +in which the operations take place are spacious, lofty, and airy. +The motive-power is mostly steam. + +Of all the Christian places of worship, the English Cathedral is the +most magnificent. It is built in the Gothic style, with a fine +large tower rising above half-a-dozen smaller ones. There are other +churches with Gothic towers, but these edifices are all extremely +simple in the interior, with the exception of the Armenian church, +which has the wall near the altar crowded with pictures in gold +frames. + +The notorious "Black Hole," in which the Rajah Suraja Dowla cast 150 +of the principal prisoners when he obtained possession of Calcutta +in 1756, is at present changed into a warehouse. At the entrance +stands an obelisk fifty feet high, and on it are inscribed the names +of his victims. + +The Botanical Garden lies five miles distant from the town. It was +founded in the year 1743, but is more like a natural park than a +garden, as it is by no means so remarkable for its collection of +flowers and plants as for the number of trees and shrubs, which are +distributed here and there with studied negligence in the midst of +large grass-plots. A neat little monument, with a marble bust, is +erected to the memory of the founder. The most remarkable objects +are two banana-trees. These trees belong to the fig-tree species, +and sometimes attain a height of forty feet. The fruit is very +small, round, and of a dark-red; it yields oil when burnt. When the +trunk has reached an elevation of about fifteen feet, a number of +small branches shoot out horizontally in all directions, and from +these quantity of threadlike roots descend perpendicularly to the +ground, in which they soon firmly fix themselves. When they are +sufficiently grown, they send out shoots like the parent trunk; and +this process is repeated ad infinitum, so that it is easy to +understand how a single tree may end by forming a whole forest, in +which thousands may find a cool and shady retreat. This tree is +held sacred by the Hindoos. They erect altars to the god Rama +beneath its shade, and there, too, the Brahmin instructs his +scholars. + +The oldest of these two trees, together with its family, already +describes a circumference of more than 600 feet, and the original +trunk measures nearly fifty feet round. + +Adjoining the Botanical Garden is the Bishop's College, in which the +natives are trained as missionaries. After the Governor's Palace, +it is the finest building in Calcutta, and consists of two main +buildings and three wings. One of the main buildings is occupied by +an extremely neat chapel. The library, which is a noble-looking +room, contains a rich collection of the works of the best authors, +and is thrown open to the pupils; but their industry does not appear +to equal the magnificence of the arrangements, for, on taking a book +from the bookcase, I immediately let it fall again and ran to the +other end of the room; a swarm of bees had flown upon me from out +the bookcase. + +The dining and sleeping rooms, as well as all the other apartments, +are so richly and conveniently furnished, that a person might easily +suppose that the establishment had been founded for the sons of the +richest English families, who were so accustomed to comfort from +their tenderest infancy that they were desirous of transplanting it +to all quarters of the globe; but no one would ever imagine the +place had been built for "the labourers in the vineyard of the +Lord." + +I surveyed this splendid institution with a sadder heart than I +might have done, because I knew it was intended for the natives, who +had first to put off their own simple mode of life and accustom +themselves to convenience and superfluity, only to wander forth into +the woods and wildernesses, and exercise their office in the midst +of savages and barbarians. + +Among the sights of Calcutta may be reckoned the garden of the chief +judge, Mr. Lawrence Peel, which is equally interesting to the +botanist and the amateur, and which, in rare flowers, plants, and +trees, is much richer than the Botanical Garden itself. The noble +park, laid out with consummate skill, the luxuriant lawns, +interspersed and bordered with flowers and plants, the crystal +ponds, the shady alleys, with their bosquets and gigantic trees, all +combine to form a perfect paradise, in the midst of which stands the +palace of the fortunate owner. + +Opposite this park, in the large village of Alifaughur, is situated +a modest little house, which is the birthplace of much that is good. +It contains a small surgery, and is inhabited by a native who has +studied medicine. Here the natives may obtain both advice and +medicine for nothing. This kind and benevolent arrangement is due +to Lady Julia Cameron, wife of the law member of the Supreme Council +of India, Charles Henry Cameron. + +I had the pleasure of making this lady's acquaintance, and found her +to be, in every respect, an ornament to her sex. Wherever there is +any good to be done, she is sure to take the lead. In the years +1846-7, she set on foot subscriptions for the starving Irish, +writing to the most distant provinces and calling upon every +Englishman to contribute his mite. In this manner she collected the +large sum of 80,000 rupees (8,000 pounds.) + +Lady Peel has distinguished herself also in the field of science, +and Burger's "Leonore" has been beautifully translated by her into +English. She is also a kind mother and affectionate wife, and lives +only for her family, caring little for the world. Many call her an +original; would that we had a few more such originals! + +I had brought no letters of recommendation to this amiable woman, +but she happened to hear of my travels and paid me a visit. In +fact, the hospitality I met with here was really astonishing. I was +cordially welcomed in the very first circles, and every one did all +in his power to be of use to me. I could not help thinking of Count +Rehberg, the Austrian minister at Rio Janeiro, who thought he had +conferred a great mark of distinction by inviting me once to his +villa; and, to purchase this honour, I had either to walk an hour in +the burning heat or to pay six milreis (13s.) for a carriage. In +Calcutta, a carriage was always sent for me. I could relate a great +many more anecdotes of the worthy count, who made me feel how much I +was to blame for not descending from a rich and aristocratic family. +I experienced different treatment from the member of the Supreme +Council, Charles Henry Cameron, and from the chief judge, Mr. Peel. +These gentlemen respected me for myself alone without troubling +their heads about my ancestors. + +During my stay in Calcutta, I was invited to a large party in honour +of Mr. Peel's birthday; but I refused the invitation, as I had no +suitable dress. My excuse, however, was not allowed, and I +accompanied Lady Cameron, in a simple coloured muslin dress, to a +party where all the other ladies were dressed in silk and satin and +covered with lace and jewellery; yet no one was ashamed of me, but +conversed freely with me, and showed me every possible attention. + +A very interesting promenade for a stranger is that to the Strand, +or "Maytown," as it is likewise called. It is skirted on one side +by the banks of the Hoogly, and on the other by beautiful meadows, +beyond which is the noble Chaudrini Road, consisting of rows of +noble palaces, and reckoned the finest quarter of Calcutta. Besides +this, there is a fine view of the governor's palace, the cathedral, +Ochterlony's monument, the magnificent reservoirs, Fort William, a +fine prutagon with extensive outworks, and many other remarkable +objects. + +Every evening, before sunset, all the fashionable world of Calcutta +streams hitherward. The purse-proud European, the stuck-up Baboo or +Nabob, the deposed Rajah, are to be beheld driving in splendid +European carriages, followed by a multitude of servants, in Oriental +costume, some standing behind their carriages, and some running +before it. The Rajahs and Nabobs are generally dressed in silk +robes embroidered with gold, over which are thrown the most costly +Indian shawls. Ladies and gentlemen mounted upon English blood +horses gallop along the meadows, while crowds of natives are to be +seen laughing and joking on their way home, after the conclusion of +their day's work. Nor is the scene on the Hoogly less animated; +first-class East Indiamen are lying at anchor, unloading or being +cleaned out, while numberless small craft pass continually to and +fro. + +I had been told that the population here suffered very much from +elephantiasis, and that numbers of poor wretches with horribly +swollen feet were to be seen at almost every turn. But this is not +true. I did not meet with as many cases of the kind during five +weeks here, as I did in one day in Rio Janeiro. + +On one occasion I paid a visit to a rich Baboo. The property of the +family, consisting of three brothers, was reckoned at 150,000 +pounds. The master of the house received me at the door, and +accompanied me to the reception-room. He was clad in a large dress +of white muslin, over which was wound a magnificent Indian shawl, +which extended from the hips to the feet, and made up for the +transparency of the muslin. One end of the shawl was thrown over +his shoulder in the most picturesque manner. + +The parlour was furnished in the European fashion. A large hand +organ stood in one corner, and in the other a spacious bookcase, +with the works of the principal English poets and philosophers; but +it struck me that these books were there more for show than use, for +the two volumes of Byron's works were turned different ways, while +Young's Night Thoughts were stuck between. There were a few +engravings and pictures, which the worthy Baboo imagined to be an +ornament to the walls, but which were not of so much value as the +frames that contained them. + +My host sent for his two sons, handsome boys, one seven and the +other four years old, and introduced them to me. I inquired, +although it was quite contrary to custom to do so, after his wife +and daughters. Our poor sex ranks so low in the estimation of the +Hindoos, that it is almost an insult to a person to mention any of +his female relations. He overlooked this in me, as a European, and +immediately sent for his daughters. The youngest, a most lovely +baby six months old, was nearly white, with large splendid eyes, the +brilliancy of which was greatly increased by the delicate eyelids, +which were painted a deep blue round the edges. The elder daughter, +nine years old, had a somewhat common coarse face. Her father, who +spoke tolerable English, introduced her to me as a bride, and +invited me to the marriage which was to take place in six weeks. I +was so astonished at this, considering the child's extreme youth, +that I remarked he no doubt meant her betrothal, but he assured me +that she would then be married and delivered over to her husband. + +On my asking whether the girl loved her intended bridegroom, I was +told that she would see him for the first time at the celebration of +the nuptials. The Baboo informed me further, that every person like +himself looked out for a son-in-law as soon as possible, and that +the younger a girl married the more honourable was it accounted; an +unmarried daughter was a disgrace to her father, who was looked upon +as possessed of no paternal love if he did not get her off his +hands. As soon as he has found a son-in-law, he describes his +bodily and mental qualities as well as his worldly circumstances to +his wife, and with this description she is obliged to content +herself, for she is never allowed to see her future son-in-law, +either as the betrothed, or the husband of her child. The +bridegroom is never considered to belong to the family of the bride, +but the latter leaves her own relations for those of her husband. +No woman, however, is allowed to see or speak with the male +relations of her husband, nor dare she ever appear before the men- +servants of her household without being veiled. If she wishes to +pay a visit to her mother, she is carried to her shut up in a +palanquin. + +I also saw the Baboo's wife and one of his sisters-in-law. The +former was twenty-five years old and very corpulent, the latter was +fifteen and was slim and well made. The reason of this, as I was +told, is that the females, although married so young, seldom become +mothers before their fourteenth year, and until then preserve their +original slimness. After their first confinement, they remain for +six or eight weeks shut up in their room, without taking the least +exercise, and living all the time on the most sumptuous and dainty +food. This fattening process generally produces the desired effect. +The reader must know that the Hindoos, like the Mahomedans, are +partial to corpulent ladies. I never saw any specimens of this kind +of beauty, however, among the lower classes. + +The two ladies were not very decently attired. Their bodies and +heads were enveloped in ample blue and white muslin drapery, +embroidered with gold, and bordered with lace of the same material +as broad as a man's hand, but the delicate texture {150} was so +ethereal, that every outline of the body was visible beneath it. +Besides this, whenever they moved their arms the muslin opened and +displayed not only their arm, but a portion of their bosom and body. +They appeared to pay a great deal of attention to their hair; their +chief care seemed to consist in replacing the muslin on their heads, +whenever it chanced to fall off. As long as a female is unmarried, +she is never allowed to lay aside her head-dress. + +These ladies were so overloaded with gold, pearls, and diamonds, +that they really resembled beasts of burden. Large pearls, with +other precious stones strung together, adorned their head and neck, +as likewise did heavy gold chains and mounted gold coins. Their +ears, which were pierced all over--I counted twelve holes in one +ear--were so thickly laden with similar ornaments, that the latter +could not be distinguished from one another; all that was to be seen +was a confused mass of gold, pearls, and diamonds. On each arm were +eight or ten costly bracelets; the principal one, which was four +inches broad, being composed of massive gold, with six rows of small +brilliants. I took it in my hand, and found that it weighed at +least half a pound. They had gold chains twisted three times round +their thighs, and their ankles and feet were also encircled with +gold rings and chains; their feet were dyed with henna. + +The two ladies then brought me their jewel-cases, and showed me a +great many more valuable ornaments. The Hindoos must spend immense +sums in jewels and gold and silver embroidered Dacca muslin, as in +these articles it is the endeavour of every lady to outrival all her +acquaintances. As they had anticipated my arrival, the two ladies +were arrayed in their most costly apparel; being determined to +exhibit themselves to me in true Indian splendour. + +The Baboo also conducted me to the inner apartments looking into the +courtyard. Some of these were furnished only with carpets and +pillows, the Hindoos not being, in general, partial to chairs or +beds; in others, were different pieces of European furniture, such +as, tables, chairs, presses, and even bedsteads. A glass case +containing dolls, coaches, horses, and other toys, was pointed out +to me with peculiar satisfaction; both children and women are very +fond of playing with these things, though the women are more +passionately fond of cards. + +No married woman is allowed to enter the rooms looking out upon the +street, as she might be seen by a man from the opposite windows. +The young bride, however, profited by her freedom, and tripping +before us to the open window, glanced into the busy street. + +The wives of the rich Hindoos, or of those belonging to the higher +castes, are as much confined to their houses as the Chinese women. +The only pleasure that the husband's strictness permits the wife to +enjoy, is to pay a visit, now and then, in a carefully closed +palanquin, to some friend or relation. It is only during the short +time that a woman remains unmarried that she is allowed rather more +freedom. + +A Hindoo may have several wives; there are, however, but few +examples of his availing himself of this privilege. + +The husband's relations generally reside in the same house, but each +family has its separate household. The elder boys take their meals +with their father, but the wife, daughters, and younger boys are not +allowed this privilege. Both sexes are extremely fond of tobacco, +which they smoke in pipes called hookas. + +At the conclusion of my visit, I was offered sweetmeats, fruits, +raisins, etc. The sweetmeats were mostly composed of sugar, +almonds, and suet, but were not very palatable, owing to the +predominance of the suet. + +Before leaving the house, I visited the ground-floor to examine the +room, in which, once a year, the religious festival called Natch is +celebrated. This festival, which is the most important one in the +Hindoo religion, takes place in the beginning of October, and lasts +a fortnight, during which time neither poor nor rich do any business +whatever. The master closes his shops and warehouses, and the +servant engages a substitute, generally from among the Mahomedans, +and then both master and servant spend the fortnight, if not in +fasting and prayer, most certainly in doing nothing else. + +The Baboo informed me that on these occasions his room is richly +ornamented, and a statue of the ten-armed goddess Durga placed in +it. This statue is formed of clay or wood, painted with the most +glaring colours, and loaded with gold and silver tinsel, flowers, +ribbons, and often with even real jewellery. Hundreds of lights and +lamps, placed between vases and garlands of flowers, glitter in the +room, the court-yard, and outside the house. A number of different +animals are offered up as sacrifices; they are not slain, however, +in the presence of the goddess, but in some retired part of the +house. Priests attend upon the goddess, and female dancers display +their talent before her, accompanied by the loud music of the tam- +tam. Both priests and danseuses are liberally paid. Some of the +latter, like our Taglionis and Elslers, earn large sums. During the +period of my stay here, there was a Persian danseuse, who never +appeared for less than 500 rupees (50 pounds.) Crowds of the +curious, among whom are numbers of Europeans, flock from one temple +to another; the principal guests have sweetmeats and fruit served +round to them. + +On the last day of the festival the goddess is conveyed with great +pomp, and accompanied by music, to the Hoogly, where she is put in a +boat, rowed into the middle of the stream, and then thrown overboard +in the midst of the shouts and acclamations of the multitude upon +the banks. Formerly, the real jewels were thrown in along with the +goddess, but carefully fished up again by the priests during the +night; at present, the real jewels are replaced on the last day by +false ones, or else the founder of the feast takes an opportunity of +secretly obtaining possession of them during the goddess's progress +to the river. He is obliged to do this very cautiously, however, so +as not to be observed by the people. A Natch often costs several +thousand rupees, and is one of the most costly items in the +expenditure of the rich. + +Marriages, too, are said to cost large sums of money. The Brahmins +observe the stars, and by their aid calculate the most fortunate day +and even hour for the ceremony to take place. It is, however, +frequently postponed, at the very last moment, for a few hours +longer, as the priest has taken fresh observations, and hit upon a +still luckier instant. Of course, such a discovery has to be paid +for by an extra fee. + +There are several different feasts every year in honour of the four- +armed goddess Kally, especially in the village of Kallighat, near +Calcutta. There were two during my stay. Before each hut was +placed a number of small clay idols, painted with various colours +and representing the most horrible creatures. They were exposed +there for sale. The goddess Kally, as large as life, had got her +tongue thrust out as far as possible between her open jaws; she was +placed either before or inside the huts, and was richly decorated +with wreaths of flowers. + +The temple of Kally is a miserable building, or rather a dark hole, +from whose cupola-like roof rise several turrets: the statue here +was remarkable for its immense head and horribly long tongue. Its +face was painted deep-red, yellow, and sky-blue. I was unable to +enter this god-like hole, as I was a woman, and as such was not +reckoned worthy of admission into so sacred a place as Kally's +temple. I looked in at the door with the Hindoo woman, and was +quite satisfied. + +The most horrible and distressing scenes occur in the Hindoo dead- +houses, and at the places where the corpses are burnt. Those that I +saw are situated on the banks of the Hoogly, near the town, and +opposite to them is the wood market. The dead-house was small, and +contained only one room, in which were four bare bedsteads. The +dying person is brought here by his relations, and either placed +upon one of the bedsteads, or, if these are all full, on the floor, +or, at a push, even before the house in the burning sun. At the +period of my arrival, there were five persons in the house and two +outside. The latter were completely wrapped up in straw and woollen +counterpanes, and I thought they were already dead. On my asking +whether or no this was the case, my guide threw off the clothes, and +I saw the poor wretches move. I think they must have been half- +smothered under the mass of covering. Inside, on the floor, lay a +poor old woman, the death-rattle in whose throat proclaimed that her +end was fast approaching. The four bedsteads were likewise +occupied. I did not observe that the mouths and noses of these poor +creatures were stopped up with mud from the Ganges: this may, +perhaps, be the case in some other districts. Near the dying +persons were seated their relations, quietly and silently waiting to +receive their last breath. On my inquiring whether nothing was ever +given to them, I was told that if they did not die immediately, a +small draught of water from the Ganges was handed to them from time +to time, but always decreasing in quantity and at longer intervals, +for when once brought to these places, they must die at any price. + +As soon as they are dead, and almost before they are cold, they are +taken to the place where they are burnt, and which is separated from +the high road by a wall. In this place I saw one corpse and one +person at the point of death, while on six funeral-piles were six +corpses with the flames flaring on high all around them. A number +of birds, larger than turkeys, and called here philosophers, {153} +small vultures, and ravens were seated upon the neighbouring trees +and house-tops, in anxious expectation of the half-burnt corpses. I +was horrified. I hurried away, and it was long before I could +efface the impression made upon my mind by this hideous spectacle. + +In the case of rich people, the burning of the body sometimes costs +more than a thousand rupees; the most costly wood, such as rose and +sandal wood, being employed for that purpose. Besides this, a +Brahmin, music, and female mourners, are necessary parts of the +ceremony. + +After the body has been burnt, the bones are collected, laid in a +vase, and thrown into the Ganges, or some other holy river. The +nearest relation is obliged to set fire to the pile. + +There are naturally none of these ceremonies among poor people. +They simply burn their dead on common wood or cow-dung; and if they +cannot even buy these materials, they fasten a stone to the corpse +and throw it into the river. + +I will here relate a short anecdote that I had from a very +trustworthy person. It may serve as an example of the atrocities +that are often committed from false ideas of religion. + +Mr. N--- was once, during his travels, not far from the Ganges, and +was accompanied by several servants and a dog. Suddenly the latter +disappeared, and all the calling in the world would not bring him +back. He was at last discovered on the banks of the Ganges, +standing near a human body, which he kept licking. Mr. N--- went up +and found that the man had been left to die, but had still some +spark of life left. He summoned his attendants, had the slime and +filth washed off the poor wretch's face, and wrapped him well up. +In a few days after he was completely recovered. On Mr. N---'s now +being about to leave him, the man begged and prayed him not to do +so, as he had lost his caste, and would never more be recognised by +any of his relations; in a word that he was completely wiped out of +the list of the living. Mr. N--- took him into his service, and the +man, at the present day, is still in the enjoyment of perfect +health. The event narrated occurred years ago. + +The Hindoos themselves acknowledge that their customs, with regard +to dying persons, occasion many involuntary murders; but their +religion ordains that when the physician declares there is no hope +left, the person must die. + +During my stay in Calcutta, I could learn no more of the manners and +customs of the Hindoos than what I have described, but I became +acquainted with some of the particulars of a Mahomedan marriage. On +the day appointed for the ceremony, the nuptial bed, elegantly +ornamented, is carried, with music and festivity, to the house of +the bridegroom, and late in the evening, the bride herself is also +conveyed there in a close palanquin, with music and torches, and a +large crowd of friends, many of whom carry regular pyramids of +tapers; that well known kind of firework, the Bengal-fire, with its +beautiful light-blue flame, is also in requisition for the evening's +proceedings. + +On arriving at the bridegroom's house, the newly-married couple +alone are admitted; the rest remain outside playing, singing, and +hallooing until broad day. + +I often heard Europeans remark that they considered the procession +of the nuptial couch extremely improper. But as the old saying +goes--"A man can see the mote in his neighbour's eye when he cannot +perceive the beam in his own;" and it struck me that the manner in +which marriages are managed among the Europeans who are settled +here, is much more unbecoming. It is a rule with the English, that +on the day appointed for the marriage, which takes place towards +evening, the bridegroom shall not see his bride before he meets her +at the altar. An infringement of this regulation would be shocking. +In case the two who are about to marry should have anything to say +to each other, they are obliged to do so in writing. Scarcely, +however, has the clergyman pronounced the benediction, ere the new +married couple are packed off together in a carriage, and sent to +spend a week in some hotel in the vicinity of the town. For this +purpose, either the hotel at Barrackpore or one of two or three +houses at Gardenrich is selected. In case all the lodgings should +be occupied, a circumstance of by no means rare occurrence, since +almost all marriages are celebrated in the months of November and +December, a boat containing one or two cabins is hired, and the +young people are condemned to pass the next eight days completely +shut up from all their friends, and even the parents themselves are +not allowed access to their children. + +I am of opinion that a girl's modesty must suffer much from these +coarse customs. How the poor creature must blush on entering the +place selected for her imprisonment; and how each look, each grin of +the landlord, waiters, or boatmen, must wound her feelings! + +The worthy Germans, who think everything excellent that does not +emanate from themselves, copy this custom most conscientiously. + + + +CHAPTER XII. BENARES. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA--ENTRANCE INTO THE GANGES--RAJMAHAL--GUR-- +JUNGHERA--MONGHYR--PATNA--DEINAPOOR--GESIPOOR--BENARES--RELIGION OF +THE HINDOOS--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--PALACES AND TEMPLES--THE HOLY +PLACES--THE HOLY APES--THE RUINS OF SARANTH--AN INDIGO PLANTATION--A +VISIT TO THE RAJAH OF BENARES--MARTYRS AND FAKIRS--THE INDIAN +PEASANT--THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT. + +On the 10th of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I +left Calcutta for Benares. The journey may be performed either by +land, or else by water, on the Ganges. By land, the distance is 470 +miles; by water, 800 miles during the rainy season, and 465 miles +more during the dry months, as the boats are compelled to take very +circuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds, +into the Ganges. + +The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men, +who, like horses, are changed every four or six miles. The +traveller proceeds by night as well as day, and at each station +finds people ready to receive him, as a circular from the post- +office is always sent a day or two before, to prepare them for his +arrival. At night the train is increased by the addition of a +torch-bearer, to scare off the wild beasts by the glare of his +torch. The travelling expenses for one person are about 200 rupees +(20 pounds), independent of the luggage, which is reckoned +separately. + +The journey by water can be accomplished in steamers, one of which +leaves almost every week for Allahabad (135 miles beyond Benares). +The journey occupies from fourteen to twenty days, as, on account of +the numerous sand-banks, it is impossible for the vessel to proceed +on her course except in the day-time, and even then it is by no +means unusual for her to run aground, especially when the water is +low. + +The fares to Benares are: first cabin, 257 rupees (25 pounds 14s.); +second cabin, 216 rupees (21 pounds 12s.). Provisions, without wine +or spirits, three rupees (6s.) a day. + +As I had heard so much of the magnificent banks of the Ganges, and +of the important towns situated on them, I determined to go by +water. + +On the 8th of December, according to the advertisement, the steamer +"General Macleod," 140 horse-power, commanded by Captain Kellar, was +to leave her moorings; but on going on board, I received the +gratifying intelligence that we should have to wait twenty-four +hours, which twenty-four hours were extended to as much again, so +that we did not actually set off before 11 o'clock on the morning of +the 10th. We first proceeded down the stream to the sea as far as +Katcherie, and on the following day we rounded Mud Point, and +entered the Sonderbunds, where we beat about as far as Culna. From +there we proceeded up the Gury, a large tributary stream flowing +into the Ganges below Rumpurbolea. During the first few days, the +scenery was monotonous to the highest degree; there were neither +towns nor villages to be seen; the banks were flat, and the prospect +everywhere bounded by tall, thick bushes, which the English term +_jungles_, that is to say, "virgin forests." For my own part, I +could see no "virgin forests," as by this term I understand a forest +of mighty trees. During the night, we heard, from time to time, the +roaring of tigers. These animals are pretty abundant in these +parts, and frequently attack the natives if they happen to remain +out late wooding. I was shown the tattered fragment of a man's +dress, hung upon a bush, to commemorate the fact of a native having +been torn to pieces there by one of these beasts. But they are not +the only foes that man has to dread here; the Ganges contains quite +as deadly ones, namely--the ravenous crocodiles. These may be seen +in groups of six or eight, sunning themselves on the slimy banks of +the river or on the numerous sandbanks. They vary in length from +six to fifteen feet. On the approach of the steamer, several +started up, affrighted by the noise, and glided hastily into the +dirty yellow stream. + +The different branches of the Sonderbunds and the Gury are often so +narrow that there is hardly room for two vessels to pass each other; +while, on the other hand, they frequently expand into lakes that are +miles across. In spite, too, of the precaution of only proceeding +by day, on account of the numerous sandbanks and shallows, accidents +are of frequent occurrence. We ourselves did not come off scot +free. In one of the narrow branches I have alluded to, while our +vessel was stopped to allow another to pass, one of the two ships +that we had in tow came with such violence against the steamer, that +the sides of a cabin were driven in: luckily, however, no one was +injured. + +In another arm of the river, two native vessels were lying at +anchor. The crews were somewhat slow in perceiving us, and had not +time to raise their anchors before we came puffing up to them. The +captain did not stop, as he thought there was room to pass, but +turned the steamer's head so far in shore, that he ran into the +bushes, and left some of the blinds of the cabin-windows suspended +as trophies behind him, whereat he was so enraged, that he +immediately dispatched two boats to cut the poor creatures' hawsers, +thereby causing them to lose their anchors. This was another action +worthy of a European! + +Near Culna (358 miles from the sea), we entered the Gury, a +considerable tributary of the Ganges, which it flows into below +Rumpurbolea. The jungles here recede, and their place is occupied +by beautiful plantations of rice, and other vegetables. There was, +too, no scarcity of villages, only the huts, which were mostly built +of straw and palm-leaves, were small and wretched. The appearance +of the steamer soon collected all the inhabitants, who left their +fields and huts and greeted it with loud huzzas. + +15th December. This evening we struck, for the first time, on a +sandbank. It cost us some trouble before we could get off again. + +16th December. We had entered the Ganges yesterday. At a late hour +this evening we hove to near the little village of Commercolly. The +inhabitants brought provisions of every description on board, and we +had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the prices of the +various articles. A fine wether cost four rupees (8s.); eighteen +fowls, a rupee (2s.); a fish, weighing several pounds, an anna +(1.5d.); eight eggs, an anna; twenty oranges, two annas (3d.); a +pound of fine bread, three beis (ld.); and yet, in spite of these +ludicrously cheap prices, the captain charged each passenger three +rupees (6s.) a-day for his board, which was not even passable! Many +of the passengers made purchases here of eggs, new bread, and +oranges, and the captain was actually not ashamed to let these +articles, which were paid for out of our own pockets, appear at his +table that we all paid so dearly for. + +18th December. Bealeah, a place of considerable importance, noted +for the number of its prisons. It is a depot for criminals, {158a} +who are sent here from all parts. The prisoners here cannot be so +desirous of escaping as those in Europe, for I saw numbers of them, +very slightly ironed, wandering about in groups or alone, in the +place itself and its vicinity, without having any gaolers with them. +They are properly taken care of, and employed in various kinds of +light work. There is a paper manufactory, which is almost entirely +carried on by them. + +The inhabitants appeared to possess a more than usual degree of +fanaticism. I and another passenger, Herr Lau, had gone to take a +walk in the place, and were about to enter a small street in which +there was a Hindoo temple; but no sooner, however, did the people +perceive our intention, than they set up a horrible yelling, and +pressed on us so closely, that we held it advisable to restrain our +curiosity and turn back. + +19th December. Today we perceived the low ranges of the Rajmahal +Hills, the first we had seen since we left Madras. In the evening, +we were again stuck fast upon a sandbank. We remained tolerably +quiet during the night, but, as soon as it was morning, every +possible means were adopted to get us off again. The vessels we had +in tow were cast off, our steam got up to its highest pitch; the +sailors, too, exerted themselves indefatigably, and at noon we were +stuck just as fast as we were the evening before. About this time, +we perceived a steamer on its way from Allahabad to Calcutta; but +our captain hoisted no signals of distress, being very much vexed +that he should be seen by a comrade in such a position. The captain +of the other vessel, however, offered his assistance of his own +accord but his offer was coldly and curtly refused, and it was not +until after several hours of the most strenuous exertion that we +succeeded in getting off the bank into deep water. + +In the course of the day, we touched at Rajmahal, {158b} a large +village, which, on account of the thick woods and numerous swamps +and morasses around it, is reckoned a most unhealthy place. + +It was here that Gur, one of the largest towns of India, once stood. +It is said to have been twenty square miles in extent, and to have +contained about two millions of inhabitants, and, according to the +latest books of travels, the most splendid and considerable ruins +are still to be seen there. Those of the so-called "Golden Mosque" +are especially remarkable, being very fine and faced with marble; +the gateways are celebrated for their great width of span and the +solidity of their side walls. + +As there was, fortunately, a depot for coals here, we were allowed a +few hours to do as we liked. The younger passengers seized the +opportunity to go out shooting, being attracted by the splendid +forests, the finest I had as yet seen in India. It was certainly +reported that they were very much infested with tigers, but this +deterred no one. + +I also engaged in the chase--although it was one of a different +description. I penetrated far and wide, through forest and swamp, +in order to discover the ruins. I was successful; but how meagre +and wretched they were! The most important were those of two common +city-gates, built of sandstone and ornamented with a few handsome +sculptures, but without any arches or cupolas. One inconsiderable +temple, with four corner towers, was in several places covered with +very fine cement. Besides these, there were a few other ruins or +single fragments of buildings and pillars scattered around, but all +of them together do not cover a space of two square miles. + +On the border of the forest, or some hundred paces farther in, were +situated a number of huts belonging to the natives, approached by +picturesque paths running beneath shady avenues of trees. In +Bealeah, the people were very fanatic, while here the men were very +jealous. At the conclusion of my excursion, one of the gentlemen +passengers had joined me, and we directed our steps towards the +habitations of the natives. As soon as the men saw my companion, +they called out to their wives, and ordered them to take refuge in +the huts. The women ran in from all directions, but remained very +quietly at the doors of their dwellings to see us pass, and quite +forgot to conceal their faces while they did so. + +In these parts, there are whole woods of cocoa-palms. This tree is +properly a native of India, where it attains a height of eighty +feet, and bears fruit in its sixth year. In other countries, it is +scarcely fifty feet high, and does not bear fruit before it is +twelve or fifteen years old. This tree is, perhaps, the most useful +one in the known world. It produces large and nutritious fruit, +excellent milk, large leaves that are used for covering in and +roofing huts, materials for strong cordage, the clearest oil for +burning, mats, woven stuffs, colouring matter, and even a kind of +drink called surr, toddy, or palm brandy, and obtained by incisions +made in the crown of the tree, to which, during an entire month, the +Hindoos climb up every morning and evening, making incisions in the +stem and hanging pots underneath to catch the sap which oozes out. +The rough condition of the bark facilitates considerably the task of +climbing up the tree. The Hindoos tie a strong cord round the trunk +and their own body, and another round their feet, which they fix +firmly against the tree; they then raise themselves up, drawing the +upper rope with their hands and the lower one with the points of +their feet, after them. I have seen them climb the highest trees in +this manner with the greatest ease in two minutes at the most. +Round their bodies they have a belt, to which are suspended a knife +and one or two small jars. + +The sap is at first quite clear, and agreeably sweet, but begins, in +six or eight hours' time, to ferment, and then assumes a whitish +tint, while its flavour becomes disagreeably acid. From this, with +the addition of some rice, is manufactured strong arrack. A good +tree will yield above a gallon of this sap in four-and-twenty hours, +but during the year in which the sap is thus extracted, it bears no +fruit. + +21st December. About 80 miles below Rajmahal, we passed three +rather steep rocks rising out of the Ganges. The largest is about +sixty feet high; the next in size, which is overgrown with bushes, +is the residence of a Fakir, whom the true believers supply with +provisions. We could not see the holy man, as it was beginning to +grow dark as we passed. This, however, did not cause us so much +regret, as that we were unable to visit the Botanical Garden at +Bogulpore, which is said to be the finest in all India; but as there +was no coal depot at Bogulpore, we did not stop. + +On the 22nd of December, we passed the remarkable mountain scenery +of Junghera, which rises, like an island of rocks, from the majestic +Ganges. This spot was, in former times, looked on as the holiest in +the whole course of the river. Thousands of boats and larger +vessels were constantly to be seen there, as no Hindoo believed he +could die in peace without having visited the place. Numerous +Fakirs had established themselves here, strengthening the poor +pilgrims with unctuous exhortations, and taking in return their +pious gifts. The neighbourhood has, however, at present, lost its +reputation for sanctity, and the offerings received are scarcely +sufficient to maintain two or three Fakirs. + +In the evening we stopped near Monghyr, {160a} a tolerably large +town, with some old fortifications. The most conspicuous object is +a cemetery, crowded with monuments. The monuments are so peculiar, +that had I not seen similar ones in the cemeteries of Calcutta, I +should never have imagined that they belonged to any sect of +Christians. There were temples, pyramids, immense catafalques, +kiosks, etc., all massively built of tiles. The extent of this +cemetery is quite disproportioned to the number of Europeans in +Monghyr; but the place is said to be the most unhealthy in India, so +that when a European is ordered there for any number of years, he +generally takes a last farewell of all his friends. + +Six miles hence, there are some hot springs, which are looked upon +by the natives as sacred. + +We had lost sight of the Rajmahal Hills at Bogulpore; on both sides +of the river, nothing was now to be seen but an uninterrupted +succession of flat plains. + +24th December. Patna, {160b} one of the largest and most ancient +cities of Bengal, with a population of about 300,000 souls, {161} +consists of a long, broad street, eight miles long, with numerous +short alleys running into it. The houses, which are mostly +constructed of mud, struck me as particularly small and wretched. +Under the projecting roofs are exposed for sale goods and provisions +of the simplest kind. That part of the street in which the greatest +number of these miserable shops are situated, is dignified by the +grand name of the "Bazaar." The few houses of a better description +might easily be counted without any very great trouble; they are +built of tiles, and surrounded by wooden galleries and colonnades +prettily carved. In these houses were to be found the best and +finest shops. + +The temples of the Hindoos, the Ghauts (flights of steps, halls, and +gateways) on the Ganges, like the mosques of the Mahomedans, always +look a great deal better at a distance than they do on a nearer +inspection. The only objects worthy of notice which I saw here, +were a few bell-shaped mausoleums, like those in Ceylon, which they +greatly surpassed in size, although not in artistic beauty; they +were certainly more than 200 feet in circumference, and eighty feet +in height. Excessively narrow entrances, with simple doors, conduct +into the interior. On the outside, two small flights of steps, +forming a semicircle, lead up to the top. The doors were not opened +for us, and we were obliged to content ourselves with the assurance +that, with the exception of a small, plain sarcophagus there was +nothing inside. + +Patna is a place of great importance, from the trade in opium, by +which many of the natives acquire large fortunes. As a general +rule, they make no display of their riches, either as regards their +clothes, or in any other public kind of luxury. There are only two +sorts of dress--one for those in easy circumstances, which is like +that of the Orientals, and one for the poorest classes, which +consists of a piece of cloth bound round the loins. + +The principal street presents a bustling appearance, being much +frequented by carriages, as well as pedestrians. The Hindoos, like +the Jews, are such determined foes to walking, that they do not +think the worst place in the most wretched cart beneath their +acceptance. + +The vehicles in most general use are narrow, wooden cars upon two +wheels, and composed of four posts with cross-beams. Coloured +woollen stuff is hung over these, and a kind of canopy keeps off the +sun. There is properly only room for two persons, although I have +seen three or four crowded into them. This put me in mind of the +Italians, who fill a carriage so that not even the steps are left +vacant. These cars are called baili. They are closely curtained +when women travel in them. + +I expected to see the streets here full of camels and elephants, +since I had read so much about it in some descriptions: but I saw +only bailis drawn by oxen and a few horsemen, but neither camels nor +elephants. + +Towards evening we drove to Deinapore, {162} which is eight miles +from Patna, along an excellent post-road, planted with handsome +trees. + +Deinapore is one of the largest English military stations, and +contains extensive barracks, which almost constitute a town in +themselves. The town is but a short distance from the barracks. +There are many Mahomedans among the inhabitants, who surpass the +Hindoos in industry and perseverance. + +I here saw elephants for the first time on the Indian continent. In +a serai outside the town there were eight large handsome animals. + +When we returned to the ship in the evening, we found it like a +camp. All kinds of articles were brought there and laid out for +inspection; but the shoemakers were particularly numerous. Their +work appeared neat and lasting, and remarkably cheap. A pair of +men's boots, for example, cost from one and a half to two rupees +(3s. to 4s.); but it is true that twice as much is always asked for +them. I saw on this occasion the way in which the European sailors +conduct bargains with the natives. One of the engineers wanted to +buy a pair of shoes, and offered a quarter of the price asked. The +seller, not consenting to this, took his goods back; but the +engineer snatched them out of his hand, threw down a few beis more +than what he had offered, and hastened to his cabin. The shoemaker +pursued him, and demanded the shoes back; instead of which he +received several tough blows, and was threatened that if he was not +quiet he should be compelled to leave the ship immediately. The +poor creature returned half crying to his pack of goods. + +A similar occurrence took place on the same evening. A Hindoo boy +brought a box for one of the travellers, and asked for a small +payment for his trouble; he was not listened to. The boy remained +standing by, repeating his request now and then. He was driven +away, and as he would not go quietly, blows were had recourse to. +The captain happened to pass accidentally, and asked what was the +matter. The boy, sobbing, told him; the captain shrugged his +shoulders, and the boy was put out of the ship. + +How many similar and even more provoking incidents have I seen? The +so-called "barbarian and heathen people" have good reason to hate +us. Wherever the Europeans go they will not give any reward, but +only orders and commands; and their rule is generally much more +oppressive than that of the natives. + +26th December. The custom of exposing dying people on the banks of +the Ganges, does not appear to be so general as some travellers +state. We sailed on the river for fourteen days, during which time +we passed many thickly populated towns and villages, and did not +meet with a single case until today. The dying man lay close to the +water, and several men, probably his relations, were seated round +him, awaiting his decease. One dipped water and mud out of the +river with his hands, and put them to the nose and mouth of the +dying man. The Hindoos believe that if they die at the river with +their mouths full of the holy water, they are quite certain to go to +heaven. His relations or friends remain by the dying man till +sunset, when they go home, and leave him to his fate. He generally +falls a prey to crocodiles. I very seldom saw any floating corpses; +only two during the whole journey. Most of the corpses are burnt. + +27th December. Ghazipoor is an important place, and is remarkable +at a distance for its handsome ghauts. Here stands a pretty +monument erected to the memory of Lord Cornwallis, who conquered +Tippoo Saib in 1790. Very near is a large establishment for +training horses, which is said to turn out remarkably fine ones. +But Ghazipoor is most remarkable for its enormous rose-fields, and +the rose-water and attar prepared here. The latter is obtained in +the following manner:-- + +Upon forty pounds of roses, with the calixes, sixty pounds of water +are poured, and the whole is distilled over a slow fire. From this, +about thirty pounds of rose-water are obtained. Another forty +pounds of roses are again added to this, and, at the utmost, twenty +pounds of water distilled off. This is then exposed during the +night to the cold air in pans, and in the morning the oil is found +swimming upon the surface and is skimmed off. Not more than an +ounce and a half of attar, at the utmost, is obtained from eighty +pounds of roses. An ounce of true attar costs, even at Ghazipoor, +40 rupees (4 pounds). + +At 10 o'clock on the morning of the 28th, we at length reached the +holy town of Benares. We anchored near Radschgaht, where coolies +and camels were ready to receive us. + +Before taking leave of the Ganges, I must remark that, during the +whole journey of about a thousand miles, I did not meet with a +single spot remarkable for its especial beauty, or one picturesque +view. The banks are either flat or bounded by layers of earth ten +or twenty feet in height, and, further inland, sandy plains +alternate with plantations or dried-up meadows and miserable +jungles. There are, indeed, a great number of towns and villages, +but, with the exception of occasional handsome houses and the +ghauts, they are composed of a collection of huts. The river itself +is frequently divided into several branches, and is sometimes so +broad that it resembles a sea rather than a river, for the banks are +scarcely visible. + +Benares is the most sacred town of India. It is to the Hindoos what +Mecca is to the Mahomedans, or Rome to the Catholics. The belief of +the Hindoos in its holiness is such that, according to their +opinion, every man will be saved who remains twenty-four hours in +the town, without reference to his religion. This noble toleration +is one of the finest features in the religion and character of this +people, and puts to shame the prejudices of many Christian sects. + +The number of pilgrims amounts annually to 300,000 or 400,000, and +the town is one of the most wealthy in the country, through their +trading, sacrifices, and gifts. + +This may not be an improper place to make some remarks upon the +religion of these interesting people, which I extract from +Zimmerman's "Handbook of Travels." + +"The foundation of the Hindoo faith is the belief in a superior +primitive being, immortality, and a reward of virtue. The chief +idea of God is so great and beautiful, its moral so pure and +elevated, that its equal has not been found among any other people. + +"Their creed is to worship the highest Being, to invoke their +guardian gods, to be well-disposed towards their fellow-men, to pity +the unfortunate and help them, to bear patiently the inconveniences +of life, not to lie or break their word, to read the sacred +histories and to give heed to them, not to talk much, to fast, pray, +and to bathe at stated periods. These are the general duties which +the sacred writings of the Hindoos enforce, without exception, upon +all castes or sects. + +"Their true and only god is called 'Brahma,' which must not be +confounded with Brahma who was created by the former, who is the +true, eternal, holy, and unchangeable light of all time and space. +The wicked are punished and the good rewarded. + +"Out of the Eternal Being proceeded the goddess Bhavani, i.e., +Nature, and a host of 1,180 million spirits. Among these there are +three demi-gods or superior spirits, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, the +Hindoo Trinity, called by them Trimurti. + +"For a long time, happiness and content prevailed; but they +afterwards revolted, and many gave up their allegiance. The rebels +were cast down from on high into the pit of darkness. Hereupon +succeeded the transmigration of souls; every animal and every plant +was animated by one of the fallen angels, and the remarkable +amiability of the Hindoos towards animals is owing to this belief. +They look upon them as their fellow-creatures, and will not put any +of them to death. + +"The Hindoo reverences the great purpose of nature, the production +of organized bodies, in the most disinterested and pious manner. +Everything tending to this end is to him venerable and holy, and it +is in this respect alone that he worships the Lingam. + +"It may be affirmed, that the superstitions of this creed have only +gradually become an almost senseless delusion through corruption and +misunderstanding. + +"In order to judge of the present state of their religion, it will +be sufficient to describe the figures of a few of their chief +deities. + +"Brahma, as the creator of the world, is represented with four human +heads and eight hands; in one hand he holds the scriptures, in the +others, various idols. He is not worshipped in any temple, having +lost this prerogative on account of his ambitious desire to find out +the Supreme Being. However, after repenting of his folly, it was +permitted that the Brahmins might celebrate some festivals in his +honour, called Poutsche. + +"Vishnu, as the maintainer of the world, is represented in twenty- +one different forms:--Half fish half man, as tortoise, half lion +half man, Buddha, dwarf, etc. The wife of Vishnu is worshipped as +the goddess of fruitfulness, plenty, and beauty. The cow is +considered sacred to her. + +"Shiva is the destroyer, revenger, and the conqueror of Death. He +has, therefore, a double character, beneficent or terrible; he +rewards or punishes. He is generally hideously represented, +entirely surrounded by lightning, with three eyes, the largest of +which is in the forehead; he has also eight arms, in each of which +he holds something. + +"Although these three deities are equal, the religion of the Hindoos +is divided into only two sects--the worshippers of Vishnu and those +of Shiva. Brahma has no peculiar sect, since he is denied temples +and pagodas; however, the whole priestly caste--the Brahmins--may be +considered as his worshippers, since they affirm that they proceeded +from his head. + +"The worshippers of Vishnu have on their foreheads a red or +yellowish painted sign of the Jani; the Shiva worshippers, the sign +of the Lingam, or an obelisk, triangle, or the sun. + +"333,000,000 subordinate deities are recognised. They control the +elements, natural phenomena, the passions, acts, diseases, etc. +They are represented in different forms and having all kinds of +attributes. + +"There are also genii, good and evil spirits. The number of the +good exceeds that of the bad by about 3,000,000. + +"Other objects are also considered sacred by the Hindoos, as rivers, +especially the Ganges, which is believed to have been formed from +the sweat of Shiva. The water of the Ganges is so highly esteemed, +that a trade is carried on in it for many miles inland. + +"Among animals, they chiefly look upon the cow, ox, elephant, ape, +eagle, swan, peacock, and serpent, as sacred; among plants, the +lotus, the banana, and the mango-tree. + +"The Brahmins have an especial veneration for a stone, which is, +according to Sonnerat, a fossil ammonite in slate. + +"It is in the highest degree remarkable that there is no +representation of the Supreme Being to be found in all Hindostan. +The idea appears too great for them; they consider the whole earth +as his temple, and worship him under all forms. + +"The adherents of Shiva bury their dead; the others either burn them +or throw them into the river." + + +No one can form an accurate idea of India who has not gone beyond +Calcutta. This city has become almost European. The palaces, the +equipages are European; there are societies, balls, concerts, +promenades, almost the same as in Paris or London; and if it was not +for the tawny natives in the streets, and the Hindoo servants in the +houses, a stranger might easily forget that he was in a foreign +country. + +It is very different in Benares. The Europeans are isolated there; +foreign customs and manners everywhere surround them, and remind +them that they are tolerated intruders. Benares contains 300,000 +inhabitants, of which scarcely 150 are Europeans. + +The town is handsome, especially when seen from the river side, +where its defects are not observed. Magnificent rows of steps, +built of colossal stones, lead up to the houses and palaces, and +artistically built gateways. In the best part of the town, they +form a continuous line two miles in length. These steps cost +enormous sums of money, and a large town might have been built with +the stones employed for them. + +The handsome part of the town contains a great number of antique +palaces, in the Moorish, Gothic, and Hindoo styles, many of which +are six stories high. The gates are most magnificent, and the +fronts of the palaces and houses are covered with masterly +arabesques and sculptured work; the different stories are richly +ornamented with fine colonnades, verandahs, balconies, and friezes. +The windows alone did not please me; they were low, small, and +seldom regularly arranged. All the houses and palaces have very +broad sloping roofs and terraces. The innumerable temples afford a +proof of the wealth and piety of the inhabitants of this town. +Every Hindoo in good circumstances has a temple in his house, i.e., +a small tower, which is frequently only twenty feet high. + +The Hindoo temples consist properly of a tower thirty or sixty feet +in height, without windows, and having only a small entrance. They +appear, especially at a distance, very striking and handsome, as +they are either artistically sculptured or richly covered with +projecting ornaments, such as pinnacles, small columns, pyramids, +leaves, niches, etc. + +Unfortunately, many of these beautiful buildings are in ruins. The +Ganges here and there undermines the foundations, and palaces and +temples sink into the soft earth or fall entirely down. Miserable +little huts are in some places built upon these ruins, and disfigure +the fine appearance of the town, for even the ruins themselves are +still beautiful. + +At sunrise, a spectacle is to be seen at the river which has not its +counterpart in the world. The pious Hindoos come here to perform +their devotions; they step into the river, turn towards the sun, +throw three handsful of water upon their heads, and mutter their +prayers. Taking into account the large population which Benares +contains, besides pilgrims, it will not be exaggeration to say that +the daily number of devotees amounts, on the average, to 50,000 +persons. Numbers of Brahmins sit in small kiosks, or upon blocks of +stone on the steps, close to the water's edge, to receive the +charity of the wealthy, and grant them absolution in return. + +Every Hindoo must bathe at least once in the day, and particularly +in the morning; if he is pious and has time, he repeats the ceremony +again in the evening. The women bathe at home. + +At the time of the festival called Mala, when the concourse of +pilgrims is innumerable, the steps are crowded with masses of human +beings, and the river appears as if covered with black spots from +the number of the bathers' heads. + +The interior of the city is far less handsome than that portion +which extends along the Ganges. It contains many palaces; but these +have not the same beautiful gateways, colonnades, and verandahs as +those already described. Many of these buildings are covered with +fine cement, and others are painted with miserable frescoes. + +The streets are for the most part both dirty and ugly, and many of +them are so narrow, that there is scarcely room for a palanquin to +pass. At the corner of almost every house stands the figure of the +god Shiva. + +Among the temples in the town, the handsomest is the "Bisvishas:" it +has two towers connected by colonnades, with their summits covered +with golden plates. The temple is surrounded by a wall, but we were +allowed to enter the fore-court, and to go as far as the entrance. +We saw inside several images of Vishnu and Shiva, wreathed with +flowers, and strewn over with grains of rice, wheat, etc. Small +bulls of metal or stone stood in the porch, and living white bulls +(of which I counted eight) wandered about at liberty. The latter +are considered sacred, and are allowed to roam where they please, +and are not prevented from satisfying their hunger with even the +sacrificial flowers and corn. + +These sacred animals do not remain in the temples only--they wander +about the streets; and the people turn reverently out of their way, +and frequently give them fodder. They do not, however, allow them +to eat the corn exposed for sale, as was formerly the case. If one +of the sacred animals happen to die, it is either thrown into the +river or burnt. They receive in this respect the same honour as the +Hindoos themselves. + +In the temple, there were men and women who had brought flowers, +with which they decorated the images. Some of them also laid a +piece of money under the flowers. They then sprinkled them over +with Ganges' water, and strewed rice and other corn about. + +Near the temple are the most holy places in the town, namely--the +so-called "holy well" and the Mankarnika, a large basin of water. +The following anecdote is told of the former:-- + +When the English had conquered Benares, they planted a cannon before +the entrance of the temple to destroy the image of the god Mahadeo. +The Brahmins, greatly indignant at this, instigated the people to +revolt, and they hastened in numerous crowds to the temple. The +English, to prevent a disturbance, said to the people: "If your god +is stronger than the Christian God, the balls will not hurt him; but +if not, he will be broken to pieces." Of course; the latter was the +result. The Brahmins, however, did not give up their cause, but +declared that they had seen the spirit of their god leave the idol +before the cannon was fired, and plunge into the spring near at +hand. From this time the spring was considered sacred. + +The Mankarnika is a deep basin, paved with stone, about sixty feet +long, and of equal breadth; broad steps lead from the four sides +into the water. A similar tradition, but connected with the god +Shiva, is attached to this place. Both deities are said to have +continued to reside in these waters down to the present day. Every +pilgrim who visits Benares must, on his arrival, bathe in this holy +pool, and, at the same time, make a small offering. Several +Brahmins are always present to receive these gifts. They are in no +way distinguished by their dress from the bulk of the better +classes, but the colour of their skin is clearer, and many of them +have very noble features. + +Fifty paces from this pool, on the banks of the Ganges, stands a +remarkably handsome Hindoo temple, with three towers. +Unfortunately, the ground sunk in a few years since, and the towers +were thrown out of their proper position: one inclines to the right +and the other to the left; the third is almost sunk into the Ganges. + +Among the thousand of other temples, there is here and there one +which is worth the trouble of a cursory inspection, but I would not +advise any one to go much out of their way on their account. The +place for burning the dead is very near the holy pool. When we went +there, they were just roasting a corpse--the mode of burning cannot +be described by any other name, the fire was so small, and the +corpse projected over on all sides. + +Among the other buildings, the Mosque Aurang Zeb is most worthy of +the notice of travellers. It is famous on account of its two +minarets, which are 150 feet high, and are said to be the slenderest +in the world. They look like two needles, and certainly are more +deserving of the name than that of Cleopatra at Alexandria. Narrow +winding staircases in the interior lead to the top, upon which a +small platform, with a balustrade a foot high, is erected. It is +fortunate for those who are not subject to dizziness. They can +venture out, and take a bird's-eye view of the endless sea of +houses, and the innumerable Hindoo temples; the Ganges also, with +its step quays, miles long, lies exposed below. I was told that on +very clear, fine days, a distant chain of mountains was perceivable-- +the day was fine and clear, but I could not see the mountains. + +The observatory is a very remarkable and artistic building. It was +built by Dscheising, under the intelligent Emperor Akbar, more than +two centuries since. There are no ordinary telescopes to be found +there: all the instruments are constructed of massive blocks of +stone. Upon a raised terrace, to which stone steps lead, stand +circular tables, semicircular and quadratic curves, etc. which are +covered with signs, writing, and lines. With these instruments, the +Brahmins made, and still make, their observations and calculations. +We met with several Brahmins busily engaged with calculations and +written treatises. + +Benares is on the whole the chief seat of Indian learning. Among +the Brahmins, 6,000 in number, I was told there were many who give +instruction in astronomy, Sanscrit, and other scientific subjects. + +The sacred apes are another of the curiosities of Benares. Their +principal location is upon some of the immense mango-trees in the +suburbs of Durgakund. The animals seemed as if they knew we had +come to see them, for they approached quite close to us; but when +the servant, whom I had sent for some food for them, returned, and +called them to him, it was amusing to see the merry creatures come +running from the trees, the roofs of the houses, and the streets. +We were in a moment closely surrounded by several hundreds, who +fought together in the most comical manner for the fruits and grain. +The largest or oldest acted as commander. Wherever there was +quarrelling, he rushed in, and commenced thrashing the combatants, +threatening them with his teeth, and making a muttering sound, upon +which they immediately separated. It was the largest and most +comical party of monkeys I ever saw. They were generally more than +two feet high, and their skins were a dirty yellow colour. + +My kind host took me one day to Sarnath (five miles from Benares), +where there are some interesting ruins of three remarkably massive +towers. They are not particularly high, and stand upon three +artificially raised mounds, a mile distant from each other. Both +the mounds and towers are constructed of large bricks. The largest +of these towers is still covered in many places with stone slabs, on +which traces of arabesques are here and there visible. Numbers of +slabs lie scattered about the ground. There are no signs of any +such covering on the remaining towers. In each there is a small +door and a single apartment. + +Excavations were commenced beneath these towers by the English +government in the hope of making some discoveries which would throw +light upon the origin of these buildings; but nothing was found +beyond an empty underground vault. + +There is a lake close by of artificial construction, which is +supplied with water from the Ganges by a canal. + +There is a very singular tradition connected with these towers and +the lake. "In very ancient times three brothers ruled here, who +were giants, and had these buildings erected and the lake excavated, +and all in one day. It must, however, be known that a day at that +time was equal to two years of modern reckoning. The giants were so +tall that they could go from one tower to the other with a step, and +the reason these were built so close was their fondness for each +other, and their desire to be always together." + +An indigo plantation in the neighbourhood, the first I ever saw, was +not less interesting to me than these towers and their singular +tradition. The indigo plant is herbaceous, and from one to three +feet high, with delicate bluish-green leaves. The harvest is +generally in August; the plants are cut tolerably low on the +principal stem, tied together in bundles, and thrown into large +wooden vats. Planks are laid on the tops of the bundles weighted +with stones, and water poured on them; generally after sixteen +hours, though sometimes after several days, according to the +character of the water, fermentation commences. This is the +principal difficulty, and everything depends upon its continuance +for the proper time. When the water has acquired a dark-green +colour, it is transferred to other wooden vessels, lime added, and +the whole stirred with wooden spades until a blue deposit takes +place. After being allowed to settle, the water is poured off, and +the substance remaining behind is put into long linen bags through +which the moisture filters. As soon as the indigo is dry, it is +broken in pieces and packed. + +Shortly before my departure I had the pleasure of being presented to +the Rajah through the aid of my fellow-traveller, Mr. Law. He +resides in the Citadel Rhamnughur, which lies on the left bank of +the Ganges, above the town. + +A handsomely ornamented boat awaited us at the bank of the river, +and on the other side a palanquin. We soon found ourselves at the +entrance of the palace, the gateway of which is lofty and majestic. +I expected to have been gratified in the interior by the sight of +spacious courts and a handsome style of architecture, but found only +irregular courts and small unsymmetrical apartments, destitute of +all taste and luxury. In one of the courts was a plain-columned +hall on the level of the ground, which served as a reception-room. +This hall was overcrowded with glass lustres, lamps, and European +furniture; on the walls were some miserable pictures, framed and +glazed. Outside was a swarm of servants, who gazed at us with great +attention. Presently the prince made his appearance, accompanied by +his brother, and some courtiers and attendants, who could scarcely +be distinguished the one from the other. + +The two princes were very richly dressed; they wore wide trousers, +long under and short over garments, all made of satin, embroidered +with gold. The elder one, aged thirty-five, wore short silk cuffs, +embroidered with gold, the edge set with diamonds; he had several +large brilliant rings on his finger, and his silk shoes were covered +with beautiful gold embroidery. His brother, a youth of nineteen, +whom he had adopted, {170} wore a white turban with a costly clasp +of diamonds and pearls. He had large pearls hanging from his ears, +and rich massive bracelets on his wrists. The elder prince was a +handsome man, with exceedingly amiable and intellectual features; +the younger one pleased me far less. + +We had scarcely seated ourselves, when a large silver basin with +elaborately worked nargillys were brought, and we were invited to +smoke. We declined this honour, and the prince smoked alone; he +took only a few whiffs from the same nargilly, which was then +replaced by another handsomer one. + +The behaviour of the princes was very decorous and lively. I +regretted that we could communicate only through an interpreter. He +inquired whether I had ever seen a Natsch (festival dance). On my +answering that I had not, he immediately ordered one to be +performed. + +In half an hour two female dancers and three musicians appeared. +The dancers were dressed in gay gold-embroidered muslin, wide silk +trousers, embroidered with gold, which reached to the ground, and +quite covered their bare feet. One of the musicians played upon two +small drums, the other two on four-stringed instruments, similar to +our violins. They stood close behind the dancers, and played +without melody or harmony; the dancers making at the same time very +animated motions with their arms, hands, and fingers, more than with +their feet, on which they wore silver bells, which they rung at +intervals. They made handsome and graceful drapings and figures +with their over garments. This performance lasted about a quarter +of an hour, after which they accompanied the dance with singing. +The two sylphides shrieked so miserably that I was in fear for my +ears and nerves. + +During the performance, sweetmeats, fruits, and sherbet (a cooling, +sweet, acidulated beverage) were handed round. + +After the dance was ended, the prince asked if I would like to see +his garden, which is a mile distant from the palace. I was +indiscreet enough to accept his offer. + +In company with the young prince we proceeded to the front square of +the palace, where elegantly ornamented elephants stood ready. The +elder prince's favourite elephant, an animal of uncommon size and +beauty, was destined for myself and Mr. Law. A scarlet canopy, with +tassels, fringes, and gold embroidered lace, nearly covered the +whole animal. A convenient seat was placed upon his broad back, +which might be compared to a phaeton without wheels. The elephant +was made to kneel down, a ladder was placed against his side, and +Mr. Law and myself took our places. Behind us sat a servant, who +held an enormously large umbrella over our heads. The driver sat +upon the neck of the animal, and pricked it now and then between the +ears with a sharp-pointed iron rod. + +The young prince, with his attendant and servants, took their places +upon the other elephants. Several officers on horseback rode at our +side, two soldiers with drawn sabres ran in front of the party to +clear the way, and upwards of a dozen soldiers, also with drawn +sabres, surrounded us, while a few mounted soldiers brought up the +rear. + +Although the motion of the elephant is quite as jolting and +unpleasant as that of the camel, this truly Indian ride afforded me +great pleasure. + +When we had arrived at the garden, the young prince seemed by his +proud look to ask whether we were not charmed with its magnificence. +Our delight was unfortunately assumed, for the garden was far too +plain to deserve much praise. In the back-ground of the garden +stands a somewhat ruinous royal summer palace. + +As we were about leaving the garden, the gardener brought us some +beautiful nosegays and delicious fruits--a custom universal in +India. + +Outside the garden was a very large water-basin, covered with +handsome blocks of stone; broad steps led up to the water, and at +the corner stood beautiful kiosks, ornamented with tolerably well- +executed reliefs. + +The Rajah of Benares receives from the English government an annual +pension of one lac, that is, 100,000 rupees (10,000 pounds). He is +said to receive as much more from his property, and nevertheless to +be very much in debt. The causes of this are his great extravagance +in clothes and jewellery, his numerous wives, servants, horses, +camels, and elephants, etc. I was told that the prince has forty +wives, about a thousand servants and soldiers, a hundred horses, +fifty camels, and twenty elephants. + +On the following morning the Rajah sent to inquire how the excursion +had pleased us, and presented me with confectionery, sweetmeats, and +the rarest fruits; among others, grapes and pomegranates, which at +this time of the year are scarce. They came from Cabul, which is +about 700 miles distant from this place. + +Finally, I must mention that for many years no one has died in the +palace which the Rajah occupies. The reason of this is said to be +the following:--"One of the rulers of this palace once asked a +Brahmin what would become of the soul of any one who died in the +palace. The Brahmin answered that it would go to heaven. The Rajah +repeated the same question ninety-nine times, and always received +the same answer. But on asking the hundredth time, the Brahmin lost +patience, and answered that it would go into a donkey." Since that +time every one, from the prince to the meanest servant, leaves the +palace as soon as they feel themselves unwell. None of them are +desirous of continuing after death the part which they have, +perhaps, so frequently commenced in this life. + +While in Benares I had two opportunities of seeing the so-called +martyrs of the Fakirs (a priestly sect of the Hindoos). These +martyrs impose upon themselves the most various tortures: for +example, they stick an iron hook through their flesh, and have +themselves drawn up to a height of twenty or five-and-twenty feet; +or they stand several hours in the day upon one foot, and at the +same time stretch their arms in the air, or hold heavy weights in +various positions, turn round in a circle for hours together, tear +the flesh off their bodies, etc. They frequently torment themselves +so much as to be in danger of their lives. These martyrs are still +tolerably venerated by the people; however, there are at the present +time but a few more remaining. One of the two whom I saw, held a +heavy axe over his head, and had taken the bent attitude of a +workman hewing wood. I watched him for more than a quarter of an +hour; he remained in the same position as firmly and quietly as if +he had been turned to stone. He had, perhaps, exercised this +useless occupation for years. The other held the point of his foot +to his nose. + +Another sect of the Fakirs condemn themselves to eat only a little +food, and that of the most disgusting kind: the flesh of oxen that +have died, half-rotten vegetables, and refuse of every kind, even +mud and earth; they say that it is quite immaterial what the stomach +is filled with. + +The Fakirs all go about almost naked, smear their bodies with cow- +dung, not even excepting the face; and then strew ashes over +themselves. They paint their breasts and foreheads with the +symbolical figures of Vishnu and Shiva, and dye their ragged hair +dark reddish brown. It is not easy to imagine anything more +disgusting and repulsive than these priests. They wander about all +the streets, preaching and doing whatever they fancy; they are, +however, far less respected than the martyrs. + + +One of the gentlemen whose acquaintance I made in Benares, was so +obliging as to communicate to me some information as to the relation +of the peasants to the government. The peasant has no landed +property. All the land belongs either to the English government, +the East India Company, or the native princes. It is let out +altogether; the principal tenants divide it into small lots, and +sublet these to the peasants. The fate of the latter depends +entirely upon the disposition of the principal tenant. He +determines the amount of rent, and frequently demands the money at a +time when the crops are not harvested, and the peasant cannot pay; +the poor people are then obliged to sell the unripe crops for half +their worth, and their landlord generally contrives to buy it +himself in the name of another person. The unfortunate peasant +frequently has scarcely a sufficiency left to keep life in himself +and his family. + +Laws and judges there certainly are in the country, and, as +everywhere else, the laws are good and the magistrates just; but it +is another question whether the poor ever receive justice. The +districts are so extensive, that the peasant cannot undertake a +journey of seventy or eighty miles; and even when he lives near, he +cannot always reach the presence of the magistrate. The business of +the latter is so great, that he cannot himself attend to the +details, and generally he is the only European in office, the +remaining officials consisting of Hindoos and Mahomedans, whose +character--a lamentable fact--is always worse the more they come in +contact with Europeans. If, therefore, the peasant comes to the +court without bringing a present, he is generally turned away, his +petition or complaint is not accepted or listened to; and how is he +to bring a present after being deprived of everything by the +landlord? The peasant knows this, and therefore seldom makes a +complaint. + +An Englishman (unfortunately I have forgotten his name) who +travelled in India for scientific purposes, proves that the peasants +have now to suffer more than formerly under their native princes. + +In India, under the so-called "free English government," I found a +sad proof that the position of the slaves in Brazil is better than +that of the free peasants here. The slave there has not to provide +for any of his wants, and he is never burdened with too much work, +as the interest of his master would then suffer; for a slave costs +seven or eight hundred gulders (70 or 80 pounds), and it is to the +interest of his owner that he should be well treated, that he may be +longer of service. It cannot be denied that there are cases in +which the slaves are tyrannically treated, but this is extremely +rare. + +Several German and English missionaries reside in the neighbourhood +of Benares, and go constantly to the town to preach. At one of +these missionary establishments is a Christian village, which +contains more than twenty Hindoo families. Nevertheless, +Christianity makes scarcely any advance. {173} I inquired of each +of the missionaries how many Hindoos or Mahomedans they had baptized +in the course of their labours: generally they said, "None;" very +seldom, "One." The above mentioned families result from the year +1831, when nearly the whole of India was ravaged by cholera, nervous +fever, or famine; the people died, and many children remained +orphans, wandering about without a home. The missionaries took +these, and brought them up in the Christian religion. They were +instructed in all kinds of trades, were housed, married, and their +whole maintenance provided for. The descendants of these families +are continually educated by the missionaries, and strictly watched: +as to new converts, however, there are unfortunately none. + +I was present at several examinations: the boys and girls seemed to +have been taught well to read, write, reckon, and were well +acquainted with religion and geography. The girls were clever +embroiderers, they did needle-work very well, and sewed all kinds of +things; the boys and men made tables, carpets, bound books, printed, +etc. The director and professor of this excellent establishment is +the missionary, Mr. Luitpold; his wife has the superintendence of +the girls. The whole is sensibly and intelligently arranged and +conducted; Mr. and Mrs. Luitpold attend to their proteges with true +Christian love. But what are a few drops in an immeasurable sea? + + + +CHAPTER XIII. ALLAHABAD, AGRA, AND DELHI. + + + +ALLAHABAD--CAUNIPOOR--AGRA--THE MAUSOLEUM OF SULTAN AKBAR--TAJ- +MEHAL--THE RUINED TOWN OF FATIPOOR--SIKRI--DELHI--THE MAIN STREET-- +PUBLIC PROCESSIONS--THE EMPEROR'S PALACE--PALACES AND MOSQUES--OLD +DELHI--REMARKABLE RUINS--THE ENGLISH MILITARY STATION. + +From Benares, Mr. Law and myself travelled in a post-dock to +Allahabad. The distance, which amounts to seventy-six miles, +occupies about twelve or thirteen hours. We left the sacred town on +the 7th of January, 1848, at 6 o'clock in the evening, and early in +the morning found ourselves already near Allahabad, at a long bridge +of boats which here crosses the Ganges. + +We left the post-dock, and were carried in palanquins to the hotel, +about a mile further on. When we arrived there, we found it so +occupied by some officers of a regiment on the march, that my +travelling companion was received only upon condition that he would +content himself with a place in the public-room. In these +circumstances, nothing remained for me but to make use of my letter +of introduction to Dr. Angus. + +My arrival placed the good old gentleman in no little embarrassment: +his house was also already filled with travellers. His sister, Mrs. +Spencer, however, with great kindness, at once offered me half of +her own sleeping apartment. + +Allahabad has 25,000 inhabitants. It lies partly upon the Jumna +(Deschumna), partly on the Ganges. It is not one of the largest and +handsomest, although it is one of the sacred towns, and is visited +by many pilgrims. The Europeans reside in handsome garden-houses +outside the town. + +Among the objects of interest, the fortress with the palace is the +most remarkable. It was built during the reign of the Sultan Akbar. +It is situated at the junction of the Jumna with the Ganges. + +The fortress has been much strengthened with new works by the +English. It serves now as the principal depot of arms in British +India. + +The palace is a rather ordinary building; only a few of the saloons +are remarkable for their interior division. There are some which +are intersected by three rows of columns, forming three adjoining +arcades. In others, a few steps lead into small apartments which +are situated in the saloon itself, and resemble large private boxes +in theatres. + +The palace is now employed as an armoury. It contains complete arms +for 40,000 men, and there is also a quantity of heavy ordnance. + +In one of the courts stands a metal column thirty-six feet high, +called Feroze-Schachs-Laht, which is very well preserved, is covered +with inscriptions, and is surmounted by a lion. + +A second curiosity in the fort is a small unimportant temple, now +much dilapidated, which is considered as very sacred by the Hindoos. +To their great sorrow they are not allowed to visit it, as the fort +is not open to them. One of the officers told me that, a short time +since, a very rich Hindoo made a pilgrimage here, and offered the +commandant of the fortress 20,000 rupees (2,000 pounds) to allow him +to make his devotions in this temple. The commandant could not +permit it. + +This fortress also has its tradition:--"When the Sultan Akbar +commenced building it, every wall immediately fell in. An oracle +said that he would not succeed in its erection before a man +voluntarily offered himself as a sacrifice. Such an one presented +himself, and made only one condition, that the fortress and town +should bear his name. The man was called Brog, and the town is, +even at this time, more frequently called Brog by the Hindoos than +Allahabad." + +In memory of the heroic man, a temple was erected near the fortress, +under ground, where he is interred. Many pilgrims come here +annually. The temple is quite dark; lights or torches must be used +on entering it. It resembles, on the whole, a large handsome +cellar, the roof of which rests upon a number of plain columns. The +walls are full of niches, which are occupied by idols and figures of +deities. A leafless tree is shown as a great curiosity, which grew +in the temple and made its way through the stone roof. + +I also visited a fine large garden, in which stood four Mahomedan +mausoleums. The largest contains a sarcophagus of white marble, +which is surrounded by wooden galleries extremely richly and +handsomely decorated with mother-of-pearl. Here rests the Sultan +Koshru, son of Jehanpuira. Two smaller sarcophagi contain children +of the sultan. The walls are painted with stiff flowers and +miserable trees, between which are some inscriptions. + +One part of the wall is covered with a small curtain. The guide +pushed it with great devotion on one side, and showed me the +impression of a colossal open hand. He told me that a great-great- +uncle of Mohamet once came here to pray. He was powerful, large, +and clumsy; when raising himself up, he stumbled against the wall +and left the impression of his sacred hand. + +These four monuments are said to be upwards of 250 years old. They +are constructed of large blocks of stone, and richly decorated with +arabesques, friezes, reliefs, etc. The sepulchre of Koshru and the +impression of the hand are much venerated by the Mahomedans. + +The garden afforded me more pleasure than the monuments--especially +on account of the enormous tamarind-trees. I thought that I had +seen the largest in Brazil, but the ground, or perhaps the climate, +here appears more favourable to this species of trees. Not only is +the garden full of such magnificent specimens, but there are +beautiful avenues of them round the town. The tamarinds of +Allahabad are even mentioned in geographical works. + +On one side of the lofty wall which surrounds the garden, two +caravansaries are built, which are remarkable for their beautiful +high portals, their size, and convenient arrangement. They +presented an uncommonly lively appearance, containing people in all +costumes, horses, oxen, camels, and elephants, and a large quantity +of wares in chests, bales, and sacks. + +10th January. About 3 in the afternoon, we left Allahabad and +continued our journey in a post-dock as far as Agra, with some short +stoppages. The distance is nearly 300 miles. + +In twenty-two hours we reached Caunipoor (150 miles), on the Ganges, +a town which is remarkable for its English settlement. + +The journey so far offered little change, an uninterrupted richly- +cultivated plain and an unfrequented road. With the exception of a +few companies of military, we did not meet a single traveller. + +A party of military on the march in India resembles a small +emigration company; and, after seeing one, it is easy to form an +idea of the enormous trains of the Persian and other Asiatic armies. +The greater part of the native soldiers are married, as well as the +officers (Europeans); therefore, when the regiment marches, there +are nearly as many women and children as soldiers. The women and +children ride, two or three together, upon horses or oxen, or sit +upon cars, or go on foot with bundles on their backs. They have all +their effects packed upon cars, and drive their goats and cows +before them. The officers follow, with their families, in European +carriages, palanquins, or on horseback. Their tents, house +furniture, etc., are packed upon camels and elephants, which +generally bring up the rear. The camp is pitched on both sides of +the road--on one side are the people, and on the other the animals. + +Caunipoor is a strong military station, with four handsome barracks; +there is also an important missionary society. The town possesses +some handsome schools and private buildings, and a Christian church, +in pure Gothic style. + +12th January. Towards noon, we reached the small village of Beura. +Here we found a bungalow; that is, a small house with two or four +rooms barely furnished with the most necessary and plainest +furniture. These bungalows stand upon the post-roads, and supply +the place of hotels. They are built by government. One person pays +one rupee (2s.) a day for a small room; a family, two rupees. The +payment is the same in most bungalows, if the travellers remain +twenty-four hours or only half an hour; it is only in a few that it +is considered enough to pay half-price for staying a short time. At +each bungalow, a native is placed as superintendent, who waits on +the travellers, cooks for them, etc. The control is carried out by +means of a book, in which each traveller writes his name. If there +are no travellers, a person may remain as long as he chooses; when +the contrary happens, he cannot stay more than twenty-four hours. + +The villages which lie on the road are small, and appear very +miserable and poor. They are surrounded by high mud walls, which +give them the appearance of a fortification. + +After we had travelled three nights and two days and a half, we +reached Agra on the 13th of January--the former residence of the +Great Mogul of India. + +The suburbs of Agra resemble, in poverty, the miserable villages +before mentioned. They are composed of high walls of earth, within +which are small dilapidated huts and barracks. A change was at once +apparent when we had passed through a stately gateway. We then +suddenly found ourselves in a large open square, surrounded by +walls, from which four lofty gates led to the town, the fortress, +and the suburbs. Agra, like most Indian towns, has no inn. A +German missionary received me kindly; and, in addition to his +hospitality, was obliging enough to show me personally whatever +there was of interest in the town and neighbourhood. + +Our first visit was to the beautiful mausoleum of the Sultan Akbar, +at Secundra, four miles from Agra. + +The porch which leads into the garden is a masterpiece. I stood +before it for a long time amazed. The enormous building is raised +upon a stone terrace, which is approached by broad steps; the gate +is lofty, and is surmounted by an imposing dome. At the four +corners are minarets of white marble three stories high; +unfortunately, their upper parts are already somewhat dilapidated. +On the front of the gate are the remains of a stone trellis-work. + +The mausoleum stands in the centre of the garden; it is a square +building four stories in height, each becoming narrower at the top, +like a pyramid. The first sight of this monument is not very +attractive, for the beauty of the gateway eclipses it; however, it +improves on a more detailed examination. + +The bottom story is surrounded by fine arcades; the rooms are plain, +the walls covered with a brilliant white cement, intended as a +substitute for marble. Several sarcophagi stand inside. + +The second story consists of a large terrace, which covers the whole +extent of the lower one; in its centre is an open airy apartment +with a light arched roof, supported by columns. Several small +kiosks at the corners and sides of the terrace give to the whole a +somewhat bizarre though tasty appearance. The pretty domes of the +kiosks must formerly have been very rich and splendid, for on many +there are still to be seen beautiful remains of coloured glazed +tiles and inlaid marble-work. + +The third story resembles the second. The fourth and highest is the +most handsome. It is constructed entirely of white marble, while +the three lower ones are only of red sandstone. Broad-roofed +arcades, whose exterior marble lattice-work is inimitably executed, +form an open square, over which the most beautiful roof--the blue +sky--spreads. Here stands the sarcophagus which contains the bones +of the sultan. On the arches of the arcades, texts from the Koran +are inlaid in characters of black marble. + +I believe this is the only Mahomedan monument in which the +sarcophagus is placed at the top of the building in an uncovered +space. + +The palace of the Mongolian Sultan stands in the citadel. It is +said to be one of the most remarkable buildings of Mongolian +architecture. {177} + +The fortifications are nearly two miles in extent, and consist of +double and treble walls, the outer one of which is said to be +seventy-five feet high. + +The interior is divided into three principal courts. In the first +live the guards; in the second, the officers and higher authorities; +in the third, which occupies the side towards the Jumna, stands the +palace, the baths, the harem, and several gardens. In this court, +everything is made of marble. The walls of the rooms in the palaces +are covered with such stones as agates, onyxes, jasper, cornelian, +lapis-lazuli, etc., inlaid in mosaic work, representing flowers, +birds, arabesques, and other figures. Two rooms without windows are +exclusively destined to show the effects of illumination. The walls +and the arched roof are covered with mica slate in small silvered +frames; fountains splash over glass walls, behind which lights can +be arranged, and jets of water are thrown up in the centre of the +room. Even without lights, it glittered and sparkled most +marvellously; what must be the effect when innumerable lamps throw +back their rays a thousandfold! Such a sight enables one easily to +understand the imaginative descriptions of the Eastern tales of "a +thousand-and-one nights." Such palaces and rooms may be truly +considered works of magic. + +Near the palace stands a small mosque, which is also entirely +constructed of white marble, richly and artistically furnished with +arabesques, reliefs, etc. + +Before leaving the fortress, I was led to a deep underground vault-- +the former scene of numerous secret executions. How much innocent +blood may have been shed there! + +The Jumna Mosque, which the erudite affirm to surpass that of +Soliman's in Constantinople, stands outside the fortress, upon a +high terrace near the river. It is of red sandstone, has the same +wonderful domes, and was built by the Sultan Akbar. In the arches +are to be seen remains of rich paintings in light and dark-blue, +intermixed with gilding. It is to be regretted that this mosque is +in a rather dilapidated condition; but it is hoped, however, that it +will soon be completely restored, as the English government have +already commenced repairing it. + +From the mosque we returned again to the town, which is, for the +most part, surrounded by rubbish. The principal street, "Sander," +is broad and cleanly paved in the middle with square stones, and at +the sides with bricks. At both extremities of this street stand +majestic gateways. The houses of the town (from one to four stories +high) are almost entirely of red sandstone; most of them are small, +but many are surrounded by columns, pillars, and galleries. Several +are distinguished by their handsome porches. The streets are +narrow, crooked, and ugly; the bazaars unimportant. In India, as +well as in the East, the more costly wares must be sought in the +interior of the houses. The population of this town is said to have +amounted formerly to 800,000; it is now scarcely 60,000. + +The whole environs are full of ruins. Those who build can procure +the materials at the mere cost of gathering them from the ground. +Many Europeans inhabit half-ruinous buildings, which, at a small +expense, they convert into pretty palaces. + +Agra is the principal seat of two missionary societies--a Catholic +and a Protestant. Here, as in Benares, they educate the offspring +of the children they picked up in 1831. A little girl was pointed +out to me that had recently been bought of a poor woman for two +rupees (4s.) + +At the head of the Catholic mission is a bishop. The present one, +Mr. Porgi, is the founder of a tastefully-built church. In no +similar establishment did I ever see so much order, or find the +natives so well-behaved as here. On Sundays, after prayers, they +amuse themselves with decorous and lively games; while in the +Protestant establishments, after having worked all the week, they +are compelled to pray all day long, and their greatest amusement +consists in being allowed to sit for a few hours gravely before the +house-doors. A person who passed a Sunday in this country among +strict Protestants would imagine that God had forbidden the most +innocent amusements. + +These two religious societies, unfortunately, are not on very +amicable terms, and censure and persecute every slight irregularity +on the part of each other; by this means not setting the natives +living round them a very good example. + +My last visit was to the magnificent treasure of Agra, and, indeed, +of all India--the famous Taj-Mehal. + +I had read somewhere that this monument ought to be visited last, as +the others would not be admired at all after seeing this. Captain +Elliot says: "It is difficult to give a description of this +monument; the architecture is full of strength and elegance." + +The Taj-Mehal was erected by the Sultan Jehoe (Dschehoe), in memory +of his favourite muntaza, Zemani. Its building is said to have cost +750,000 pounds. Properly speaking, the sultan's memory is more +perpetuated by this building than that of his favourite, for every +one who saw it would involuntarily ask who erected it. The names of +the architect and builder are unfortunately lost. Many ascribe it +to Italian masters; but when it is seen that there are so many other +admirable works of Mahomedan architecture, either the whole must be +considered foreign or this must be admitted to be native. + +The monument stands in the centre of a garden, upon an open terrace +of red sandstone, raised twelve feet above the ground. It +represents a mosque of an octagon form, with lofty arched entrances, +which, together with the four minarets that stand at the corners of +the terrace, is entirely built of white marble. The principal dome +rises to a height of 260 feet, and is surrounded by four smaller +ones. Round the outside of the mosque extracts from the Koran are +inlaid in characters of black marble. + +In the principal apartment stand two sarcophagi, of which one +contains the remains of the sultan, the other those of his +favourite. The lower part of the walls of this apartment, as well +as both sarcophagi, are covered with costly mosaic work of the most +beautiful stones. A marble lattice-work, six feet high, surrounding +the two sarcophagi, is a masterpiece of art. It is so delicate and +finely worked, that it seems as if turned out of ivory. The +graceful columns and the narrow cornices are also covered, above and +below, with jasper, agate, etc. Among these, I was shown the so- +called "goldstone," which has a perfect gold colour, and is said to +be very costly, even more so than lapis-lazuli. + +Two gateways and two mosques stand at a small distance from the Taj- +Mehal. They are built of red sandstone and white marble. If they +stood apart, each would be considered a master-work; as it is, +however, they lose in attraction by their proximity to the Taj- +Mehal, of which a traveller says, with full justice: "It is too +pure, too sacred, too perfect, to have been constructed by men's +hands--angels must have brought it from heaven; and one imagines +there ought to be a glass shade over it, to protect it from every +breath and every wind." + +Although this mausoleum is more than 250 years old, it is as perfect +as if it was only just finished. + +Many travellers affirm that the Taj-Mehal produces a magical effect +when lighted by the moon. I saw it during a full moonshine, but was +so little pleased, that I much regretted, by this sight, having +somewhat weakened my former impression of it. The moon's light +gives a magical effect to old ruins or Gothic buildings, but not to +a monument which consists of white brilliant marble. Moonlight +makes the latter appear in indistinct masses, and as if partly +covered with snow. Whoever first promulgated this opinion +respecting the Taj-Mehal perhaps visited it in some charming +company, so that he thought everything round him was heavenly and +supernatural; and others may have found it more convenient, instead +of putting it to the test themselves, to repeat the statement of +their predecessors. + + +One of the most interesting excursions of my whole journey was to +the ruins of the town of Fattipoor Sikri, eighteen miles from Agra, +and six miles in circumference. We rode thither, and had ordered +changes of horses, so as to be able to make the journey in one day. + +On our way, we passed at times over extended heaths, on one of which +we saw a small herd of antelopes. The antelope is a kind of deer, +but smaller in size. It is extremely delicate and prettily formed, +and is distinguished by narrow dark-brown stripes along the back. +The herd crossed the road before us without much timidity, passing +over ditches and bushes, and leaping more than twenty feet at a +time, with such graceful movements that they seemed as if dancing +through the air. I was not less delighted by the sight of two wild +peacocks. It afforded me peculiar pleasure to see these animals in +a state of freedom, which we Europeans are accustomed to keep as +rarities, like exotic plants. + +The peacock is here somewhat larger than any I had seen in Europe; +the display of colours also, and the general brilliancy of the +plumage, struck me as being finer and brighter. + +These birds are considered by the Indians almost as sacred as the +cow. They appear to fully understand this kindness, for they are +seen, like house-birds, walking about in the villages or quietly +resting upon the roofs. In some districts, the Indians are so +prejudiced in their favour, that no European can venture to shoot +one of them without exposing himself to the greatest insults. Only +four months since, two English soldiers fell victims to this neglect +of Hindostanee customs. They killed several peacocks; the enraged +people fell upon them and ill-used them in such a way that they +shortly afterwards died. + +Fattipoor Sikri stands upon a hill; the fortress walls, the mosque, +and other buildings can therefore be seen from a distance. On both +sides of the road, a short distance outside the walls, lie remains +of houses or single apartments, fragments of handsome columns, etc. +With great regret I saw the natives breaking many of them, and +converting them into building materials for their houses. + +The entrance to the fortress and town was through three handsome +gates, and over masses of rubbish and fragments. The view which +here presents itself is much more impressive than that at Pompeii, +near Naples. There, indeed, everything is destroyed, but it is +another and more orderly kind of destruction--streets and squares +appear as clean as if they had only been abandoned yesterday. +Houses, palaces, and temples are free from rubbish; even the track +of the carriages remain uneffaced. Pompeii, moreover, stands on a +plain, and it cannot, therefore, be seen at one glance; its extent, +too, is scarcely half so great as that of Sikri; the houses are +smaller, the palaces not so numerous, and inferior in splendour and +magnitude. But here a larger space is covered with magnificent +buildings, mosques, kiosks, columned halls, and arcades, with +everything that was in the power of art to create; and no single +object has escaped the destructive influence of time--all is falling +into ruin. It is scarcely more than two hundred years since the +town was in a flourishing state of wealth and magnificence, and it +is hardly possible to divest the mind of the idea of a terrible +earthquake having overwhelmed it. Unlike Pompeii, it was not +covered by protecting ashes, but laid openly exposed to the weather. +My sadness and astonishment increased at every step--sadness at the +terrible destruction, astonishment at the still perceptible +magnificence, the number of splendid buildings, the beautiful +sculptures, and the rich ornaments. I saw some buildings whose +interior and exterior were so covered with sculptures, that not the +smallest space remained bare. The principal mosque exceeds in size +and artistic construction even the Jumna Mosque in Agra. The +entrance porch in the fore-court is said to be the loftiest in the +world. The interior arch measures 72 feet, and the entire height +amounts to 140 feet. The fore-court of the mosque is also one of +the largest existing; its length is 436 feet, its breadth 408; it is +surrounded by fine arabesques and small cells. This court is +considered almost as sacred as the mosque itself, in consequence of +the Sultan Akbar, "the just," having been accustomed to pay his +devotions there. After his death, this spot was indicated by a kind +of altar, which is of white marble, and of wonderful workmanship. + +The mosque itself is built in the style of the Jumna Mosque, and +has, like that, four enormous domes. The interior is filled with +sarcophagi, in which lie the remains either of relations or +favourite ministers of the Sultan Akbar. An adjoining court also +contains a great number of sepulchral monuments. + +The Sultan Akbar passed several hours every day in the Hall of +Justice, and gave audience there to the meanest, as well as the most +important of his subjects. A single column, standing in the centre +of the hall, was the divan of the emperor. This column, the capital +of which is marvellously executed, becomes broader towards the top, +and is surrounded by a beautifully worked stone gallery, a foot +high. Four broad stone passages or bridges lead into the adjoining +apartments of the palace. + +The sultan's palace is less remarkable for size than for its +sculptures, columns, ornaments, etc. Every part is over-richly +furnished with them. + +I found less to admire in the famous Elephant gate. It is, indeed, +loftily arched, but not so high as the entrance gate in the fore- +court of the mosque; the two elephants, which were very beautifully +executed in stone, are so much dilapidated, that it is scarcely +possible to tell what they are intended to represent. + +The so-called Elephant's Tower is in a better state of preservation. +In some descriptions of this, it is stated that it is constructed +only of elephants' tusks, and even of the tusks of those elephants +only which were taken from enemies during Akbar's time, or had been +captured by him in hunting. This is, however, not the case; the +tower, which is sixty feet high, is built of stone, and the tusks +are fastened on from top to bottom, so that they project out from +it. The Sultan Akbar is said to have frequently sat upon the top of +this tower, occupying himself by shooting birds. + +All the buildings, even the enormous wall, are of red sandstone, and +not, as many affirm, of red marble. + +Many hundreds of small green birds have formed their nests in the +holes and crevices of the buildings. + + +On the 19th of January I left the famous town of Agra, in the +company of Mr. Law, in order to visit the still more celebrated city +of Delhi, which is 122 miles from Agra. There is an excellent post- +road all the way. + +The country between Agra and Delhi continues tolerably unchanged; +there is no elevation to be seen. Far and wide, cultivated land +alternates with heaths and sandy moors, and the miserable villages +or small towns which lie on the road, excite no desire to delay the +journey even for a moment. + +A long and handsome chain bridge crosses the Jumna near the town of +Gassanger. + +On the 20th of January, at 4 in the afternoon, we reached Delhi. +Here I met with Dr. Sprenger, a very kind and amiable countryman. +Dr. Sprenger, a Tyrolese, has won for himself, by his remarkable +abilities and knowledge, a considerable reputation, not only among +the English, but throughout the whole learned world. He holds the +position of Director of the College in this place, and but a short +time since was requested by the English government to go to Lucknau, +for the purpose of examining the library of the Indian King of +Lucknau, to make known the valuable works, and put the whole in +order. He is a perfect master of the Sanscrit, the ancient and +modern Persian, the Turkish, Arabic, and Hindostanee languages, and +translates the most difficult of them into English and German. He +has already made the most valuable and interesting contributions to +literature, and will still continue to do so, as he is an extremely +active man, and scarcely thirty-four years of age. + +Although he was on the eve of his departure for Lucknau, he was, +nevertheless, kind enough to become my Mentor. + +We commenced with the great imperial town of Delhi; the town to +which formerly the eyes not only of all India, but almost of all +Asia, were directed. It was in its time to India what Athens was to +Greece, and Rome to Europe. It also shares their fate--of all its +greatness only the name remains. + +The present Delhi is now called New Delhi, although it is already +two hundred years old; it is a continuation of the old towns, of +which there are said to have been seven, each of which were called +Delhi. As often as the palaces, fortifications, mosques, etc., +became dilapidated, they were left to fall into ruins, and new ones +were built near the old ones. In this way, ruins upon ruins +accumulated, which are said to have occupied a space more than six +miles in breadth, and eighteen in length. If a great part of them +were not already covered with a thin layer of earth, these ruins +would certainly be the most extensive in the world. + +New Delhi lies upon the Jumna; it contains, according to Bruckner, a +population of 500,000, {183} but I was informed that there was +really only 100,000, among which are 100 Europeans. The streets are +broader and finer than any I had yet seen in any Indian town. The +principal street, Tchandni-Tschank, would do honour to an European +city: it is nearly three-quarters of a mile long, and about a +hundred feet broad; a narrow canal, scant of water and half filled +with rubbish, runs through its entire length. The houses in this +street are not remarkable either for magnitude or splendour; they +are at most one story high, and are furnished below with miserable +porches or arcades, under which worthless goods are exposed for +sale. I saw nothing of the costly shops, the numerous precious +stones glittering in the evening with the lamps and lights, of which +many travellers speak. The pretty houses and the rich shops must be +sought for in the bye streets near the bazaar. The manufactures +which I saw, consisted of gold and silver work, gold tissues and +shawls. The natives execute the gold and silver wares so tastefully +and artistically, that finer cannot be found even in Paris. The +tissues woven in gold, the gold and silk embroideries and Cashmere +shawls, are of the highest degree of perfection. The finest +Cashmere shawls cost here as much as 4,000 rupees (400 pounds). The +dexterity of the workmen appears still more surprising after seeing +the simple machines which they employ to produce their beautiful +wares. + +It is extremely interesting to walk about the principal streets of +Delhi in the evening. There may be seen at once the modes of life +of both the rich and the poor Indians. There is no town in which +there are so many princes and nobles as in this. Besides the +pensioned emperor and his relations, whose number amounts to several +thousand, many other deposed and pensioned regents and ministers +reside here. Their presence gives great animation to the town; they +are fond of going out in public, frequently make greater or less +parties, and ride (always on elephants) either in the neighbouring +gardens, or in the evenings through the streets. In the day +excursions, the elephants are decorated in the most costly manner +with rugs and fine stuffs, gold lace, and fringe; the seats called +the howdahs are even covered with Cashmere shawls; richly fringed +canopies keep off the heat of the sun, or else servants hold +enormous umbrellas for this purpose. The princes and nobles sit in +these howdahs to the number of two or four, and are very gorgeously +attired in Oriental costumes. These processions present a most +beautiful appearance, and are even larger and more splendid than +those of the Rajah of Benares, which I have described. Each +procession consists frequently of as many as a dozen or more +elephants, and fifty or sixty soldiers on foot and mounted, and as +many servants, etc. In the evenings, on the contrary, they are not +so pompous--one elephant, together with a few servants, suffices; +they ride up and down the streets, coquetting with females of a +certain class, who sit richly dressed and with unveiled faces at +open windows or outside galleries. Others ride noble Arabian +horses, whose stately appearance is still more increased by gold- +embroidered trappings and bridles inlaid with silver. Between these +riding parties, heavily laden camels from far distant regions walk +deliberately along. There are, moreover, not a few bailis, drawn by +beautiful white oxen, which the less wealthy people or the above +mentioned women use. The bailis, as well as the oxen, are draped +with scarlet cloths: the animals have their horns and the lower +half of their feet painted brownish-red, and round their neck is a +handsome collar, on which bells are fastened. The most beautiful +women peep modestly out of the half-open bailis. If it were not +known to what class unveiled women belong in India, it would be +impossible to tell their position from their behaviour. +Unfortunately, there are more of this class in India than in any +other country: the principal cause of this is an unnatural law, a +revolting custom. The girls of every family are generally betrothed +when they are only a few months old; if, however, the bridegroom +dies immediately, or at any time after the betrothal, the girl is +considered as a widow, and as such cannot marry again. They then +generally become dancers. The condition of widowhood is looked upon +as a great misfortune, as it is believed that only those women are +placed in this position, who have deserved it in a previous state of +existence. An Indian can only marry a girl belonging to his own +caste. + +To the various objects of interest in the streets already noticed, +must be added the jugglers, mountebanks, and serpent charmers, who +wander about everywhere, and are always surrounded by a crowd of +curious people. + +I saw several tricks performed by the jugglers which were truly +astonishing. One poured out fire and smoke from his mouth; then +mixed white, red, yellow, and blue powders together, swallowed them, +and then immediately spit out each one separately and dry; some +turned their eyes downwards, and when they again raised them the +pupils appeared as if of gold; they then bowed the head forward, and +on again raising it, the pupils of their eyes had their natural +colour, and their teeth were gold. Others made a small opening in +their skin, and drew out of it yards of thread, silk cord, and +narrow ribbons. The serpent charmers held the animals by their +tails, and allowed them to twine round their arms, neck, and body; +they took hold of large scorpions, and let them run over their +hands. I also saw several battles between large serpents and +ichneumons. These little animals, rather larger than a weasel, +live, as is known, upon serpents and the eggs of crocodiles. They +seize the former so dexterously by the neck that they always master +them; the crocodile eggs they suck. + +At the end of the principal street stands the imperial palace, which +is considered one of the finest buildings in Asia. It occupies, +together with its adjoining buildings, an extent of more than two +miles, and is surrounded by a wall forty feet high. + +At the principal entrance, a fine perspective view is obtained +through several successive gateways, which is terminated in the +background by a handsome hall. This hall is but small, and is +inlaid with white marble and rare stones; the roof is arched over +with mica, powdered over with small stars. Unfortunately, these +will soon lose all their glittering brilliancy, as the greater +portion of the mica has already fallen, and the remainder is likely +to follow. At the back of the hall is a door of gilt metal, +decorated with beautiful engraved work. In this hall the ex-monarch +is accustomed to show himself to the people, who, from traditionary +respect or curiosity, visit the palace. He also receives European +visitors here. + +The handsomest parts of the imperial palace are the universally +admired and magnificent audience saloon and the mosque. The former +stands in the centre of an open court; it is a long, square +building; the roof is supported by thirty columns, and is open on +all sides; several steps lead up to it, and a prettily decorated +marble gallery, two feet high, surrounds it. + +The present Great Mogul has so little taste, that he has had this +divan divided into two parts by a very paltry partition wall. A +similar wall adjoins both sides of the saloon, for what purpose I +could not learn. In this divan is a great treasure: the largest +crystal in the world. It is a block of about four feet in length, +two and a half broad, and one foot thick; {185} it is very +transparent. It was used by the emperors as a throne or seat in the +divan. Now it is hidden behind the blank wall; and if I had not +known of its existence from books, and been very curious to see it, +it would not have been shown to me at all. + +The mosque is indeed small, but, like the judgment-hall, it is of +white marble, and with fine columns and sculptures. + +Immediately adjoining the mosque is the garden "Schalinar," which is +said to have been formerly one of the finest in India, but has now +quite fallen to decay. + +Heaps of dust and rubbish were laying in the court-yards; the +buildings were almost like ruins; and miserable barracks stood +against dilapidated walls. On account of the emperor's residence, +it soon became necessary to build a new Delhi. + +On my entrance to the palace, I had observed a group of men +collected together in the court-yard. An hour afterwards, when we +were returning from our visit, they were still seated there. We +drew near to discover what it was that so attracted their attention, +and saw a few dozen of tame birds seated upon perches quietly taking +their food from the hands of attendants, or else fighting for it. +The lookers-on were, as I was told, nearly all princes. Some were +seated upon chairs, others stood round, together with their +followers. In their home dresses, the princes are hardly to be +distinguished from their servants, and in education and knowledge +they are certainly not much in advance of them. + +The emperor amuses himself with a diversion which is not more +commendable. His troops consist of boys about eight or fourteen. +They wear a miserable uniform, which in make and colour resembles +the English; their exercises are conducted partly by old officers +and partly by boys. I pitied the young soldiers from my heart, and +wondered how it was possible for them to handle their heavy muskets +and banners. The monarch generally sits for some hours every day in +the small reception hall, and amuses himself by watching the +manoeuvres of his young warriors. This is the best time to get +presented to his majesty. He is eighty-five, and at the time of my +visit was so unwell, that I had not the good fortune to see him. + +The emperor receives from the English government a yearly pension of +fourteen lacs (1,400,000 rupees = 140,000 pounds). The revenues of +his own possessions amount to half as much more; but with all this, +he is not so well off as the Rajah of Benares. He has too large a +number of people to maintain: of the descendants of the imperial +family alone more than three hundred, as well as a hundred women, +and two thousand attendants. If to these are added the numerous +elephants, camels, horses, etc., it may be easily understood why his +exchequer is always empty. + +He receives his pension on the first of every month. It has to be +brought to him under the protection of the English military, or it +would otherwise be seized by his creditors. + +The emperor is said to be very discreet in raising his revenues by +various means. For example, he confers honorary posts and appoints +officials, for which he requires considerable sums of money; and-- +can it be believed!--he always finds fools enough to pay for such +absurdities. Parents even buy appointments for their children. The +present commander of the imperial troops is scarcely ten years old. +The most remarkable fact, however, is that the vizier, who manages +the emperor's income and expenditure, not only receives no salary, +but pays the emperor annually 10,000 rupees for this office. What +sums must be embezzled to make up for this! + +The emperor issues a newspaper in his own palace, which is in the +highest degree absurd and laughable. It does not treat of politics +or the occurrences of the day, but exclusively of domestic +incidents, conversation and relative affairs. It states, for +example, "that the sultan's wife, A., owed the laundress, B., three +rupees, and that the laundress came yesterday to ask for her money; +that the lady had sent to her imperial husband to ask for the sum. +The emperor referred her to the treasurer, who assured her, that as +it was near the end of the month, he could not command a penny. The +laundress was therefore put off until the next month." Or, "The +Prince C. visited at such an hour the Prince D. or F.; he was +received in such a room; stayed so long; the conversation was on +this or that subject," etc. + +Among the other palaces of the town, that in which the college is +located is one of the handsomest. It is built in the Italian style, +and is truly majestic; the columns are of uncommon height; the +stairs, saloons, and rooms are very spacious and lofty. A fine +garden surrounds the back of the palace, a large court-yard the +front, and a high fortified wall encloses the whole. Dr. Sprenger, +as director of the college, occupies a truly princely dwelling in +it. + +The palace of the Princess Begum, half in the Italian and half in +the Mongolian style, is tolerably large, and is remarkable for its +extremely handsome saloons. A pretty and hitherto well kept garden +surrounds it on all sides. + +The Princess Begum attracted great attention at the time before +Delhi was under the English dominion, by her intelligence, +enterprise, and bravery. She was a Hindoo by birth, and became +acquainted in her youth with a German named Sombre, with whom she +fell in love, and turned Christian in order to marry him. Mr. +Sombre formed a regiment of native troops, which, after they were +well trained, he offered to the emperor. In the course of time, he +so ingratiated himself with the emperor, that the latter presented +him with a large property, and made him a prince. His wife is said +to have supported him energetically in everything. After his death, +she was appointed commander of the regiment, which post she held +most honourably for several years. She died a short time since at +the age of eighty. + +Of the numerous mosques of New Delhi, I visited only two, the Mosque +Roshun-ad-dawla, and the Jumna Mosque. The former stands in the +principal street, and its pinnacles and domes are splendidly gilt. +It is made famous through its connection with an act of cruelty on +the part of Sheikh Nadir. This remarkable, but fearfully cruel +monarch, on conquering Delhi in the year 1739, had 100,000 of the +inhabitants cut to pieces, and is said to have sat upon a tower of +this mosque to watch the scene. The town was then set fire to and +plundered. + +The Jumna Mosque, built by the Sheikh Djihan, is also considered a +masterpiece of Mahomedan architecture; it stands upon an enormous +platform, to which forty steps lead up, and rises in a truly +majestic manner above the surrounding mass of houses. Its symmetry +is astonishing. The three domes, and the small cupolas on the +minarets, are of white marble; all the other parts, even the large +slates with which the fine court-yard is paved, are of red +sandstone. The inlaid ornamental work and stripes on the mosque, +are also of white marble. + +There are great numbers of caravansaries, frequently with very +handsome portals. The baths are unimportant. + +We devoted two days to making an excursion to the more distant +monuments of Delhi. We first stopped at the still well-preserved +"Purana Kale." All the handsome mosques resemble each other much. +This one, however, is distinguished by its decoration, the richness +and correctness of its sculptures, its beautiful inlaid work, and +its size. Three lightly arched and lofty cupolas cover the +principal building, small towers adorn the corners, and two high +minarets stand at the sides. The entrance and the interior of the +domes are inlaid with glazed tiles and painted, the colours are +remarkably brilliant. The interior of every mosque is empty; a +small tribune for speakers, and a few glass lustres and lamps, +constitute the whole decoration. + +The mausoleum of the Emperor Humaione, very much in the same style +as the mosque, was commenced by this monarch himself. But as he +died before it was completed, his son Akbar carried out his +intentions. The high-arched temple, in the centre of which stands +the sarcophagus, is inlaid with mosaic work of rare stones. Instead +of window-panes, the openings are furnished with artistically worked +stone lattices. In adjoining halls, under plain sarcophagi, rest +the remains of several wives and children of the Emperor Humaione. + +Not far from this is the monument of Nizam-ul-din, a very sacred and +greatly venerated Mahomedan. It stands in a small court, the floor +of which is paved with marble. A square screen of marble, with four +small doors, surrounds the sarcophagus. This screen is still more +delicate and finely worked than that in the Taj-Mehal; it is +scarcely conceivable how it was possible to execute such work in +stone. The doors, pillars, and elegant arches are covered with the +most chaste reliefs, as fine and perfect as any that I have seen in +the most artistic towns of Italy. The marble used for them is of +remarkable whiteness and purity, worthy, indeed, of these great +works of art. + +Adjoining this are several pretty monuments, all of white marble. +They are passed by with some indifference when the most perfect of +them all has been seen first. + +A great deal has been said about a large water basin, which is +surrounded on three sides by cells, already much dilapidated; the +fourth side is open, and from it a beautiful stone staircase, forty +feet broad, leads to the water basin, which is twenty-five feet +deep. Every pilgrim would consider his pilgrimage of no account if +he did not step in here immediately on his arrival. + +Divers plunge from the terraces of the cells to the bottom of the +basin, and fetch out the smallest pieces of money which have been +thrown in. Some are dexterous enough to catch the coin even before +it touches the bottom. We threw in several coins, which they +succeeded in bringing up every time, but I can scarcely believe that +they caught them before they reached the bottom. They remained long +enough under water each time, not only to pick the coin up, but also +to look for it. The feat was certainly surprising, but not, as some +travellers affirm, so remarkable that similar ones might not be seen +elsewhere. + +Our last visit on this day was to the beautiful monument of the +Vizier Sofdar-Dchang, which is also a mosque. In this monument I +was especially struck by the inlaid work of white marble in red +sandstone upon the four minarets, it was so diversified and so +delicate; so chastely executed that the most expert draughtsman +could not have produced it more correctly and delicately upon paper. +The same may be said of the sarcophagi in the principal temple, +which is hewn out of a block of fine white marble. + +The monument is surrounded by a tolerably well-kept garden, laid out +in the European style. + +At the end of the garden, opposite the mausoleum, stands a small +palace, principally belonging to the King of Lucknau. It is at +present kept in good condition by the few European inhabitants of +New Delhi. It contains a few articles of furniture, and serves for +the accommodation of visitors to these ruins. + +We remained here over night, and, thanks to the good-hearted and +amiable Mrs. Sprenger, found every possible convenience we could +desire. The first and most agreeable thing after our long +wandering, was a well-furnished table. Such attentions are doubly +deserving of thanks, when it is remembered at what a great amount of +trouble they are procured. It is necessary on such excursions to +take not only provisions and a cook, but also cooking utensils, +table-services, bed-linen, and servants, enough in short for a small +establishment. The train of baggage, which is always sent on before +on these occasions, resembles a small emigration party. + +On the following morning we went on to Kotab-Minar, one of the +oldest and most beautiful buildings of the Patanas (from which +people the Affghans derive their origin). The most wonderful part +of this monument is the so-called "Giant's Column," a polygon with +twenty-seven sides or half-round corners, and five stories or +galleries, whose diameter at the basement is fifty-four feet, and +whose height is twenty-six feet. A winding staircase of 386 steps, +leads to the top. This building is said to belong to the thirteenth +century, and to have been built by Kotab-ud-dun. The column is of +red sandstone, and only the exterior is of white marble; decorations +and wonderful sculptures are wound in broad stripes around the +column; these are so finely and neatly chiselled as to resemble an +elegant lace pattern. Any description of the delicacy and effect of +this work would be far exceeded by the reality. The column is +fortunately as well preserved as if it had only been standing about +a hundred years. The upper part leans a little forwards (whether +artificially, as in the tower at Bologna, is not decided); its top +is flat, like a terrace, which does not correspond with the +remainder of the architecture. It is not known whether anything +formerly stood upon it. The column was in its present condition +when the English conquered Delhi. + +We mounted as far as the highest point, and a most charming view of +the whole remains of Delhi, the Jumna, and the unbounded plain, +opened itself here before us. The history of the people who once +ruled Hindostan may here be studied in the ruins of imperial towns, +lying one close beside the other. It was a great and imposing +prospect. + +Many places where magnificent palaces and monuments formerly stood +are now cultivated fields. Wherever the ground is broken up, +fragments of ruins show themselves. + +Opposite the tower or column of Kotab-Minar stands a similar +unfinished building, the base of which is considerably larger in +circumference than that of the finished one. It is supposed that +these two towers belonged to a magnificent mosque, {190} of which +some courts, gateways, columns, and walls still remain. + +These few remains of the mosque are remarkable for the perfect +sculptures which covered the walls, gateways, etc., both outside and +inside. The entrance-gateway has a considerable height. The +columns in the courts are of Buddhist origin; the bell with long +chain is sculptured on them in relief. + +In the fore-court of the mosque stands a metal column similar to +that at Allahabad, except that there is no lion upon its summit, and +its height is not more than thirty-six feet. It is defaced by +several marks and slight injuries, which are ascribed to the +Mongolians, who, when they conquered Delhi, attempted in their +destructive rage to pull down these columns; but they stood too +firmly, and all their exertions were insufficient to destroy any of +the inscriptions on them. + +The remaining Patan or Affghan temples and monuments which lie +dispersed among the other ruins, resemble each other as much as they +differ from the Mahomedan and Hindoo buildings. The monuments of +this kind generally consist of a small round temple, with a not very +high cupola, surrounded by open arcades supported on pillars. + +Here also, in the neighbourhood of Kotab-Minar, a hospitable +dwelling is to be found. A ruined building is fitted up, and three +of the rooms are furnished. + +On the way homewards, we visited the observatory of the famous +astronomer, Dey Singh. If that at Benares has been seen, this may +well be passed by. Both were built by the same architect, and in +the same style; but that at Benares is well preserved, while the one +here is already much dilapidated. Some travellers consider this +memorial as one of the most wonderful works of Indian art. + +Near the observatory stands the old madrissa (school-house), a large +building, with numerous rooms for teachers and pupils, and with open +galleries and halls, in which the teachers sat surrounded by groups +of youths. The building is rather neglected, but is partly +inhabited by private persons. + +Adjoining the madrissa stands a pretty mosque and a very handsome +monument, both of white marble. The latter was erected by Aurang +Zeb, in memory of his vizier Ghasy-al dyn Chan, the founder of the +madrissa. It is as perfect in its execution as that of the saint +Nizam-ul-din, and appears to have been erected by the same artist. + +The palace of Feroze Schah is near New Delhi. It is indeed somewhat +in ruins, but there is much to be seen in the existing remains of +the building. The fore-court of the mosque was a short time since +cleared with great labour of the rubbish and masses of stone which +covered it, by the untiring zeal of Mr. Cobb, the esteemed editor of +the English Delhi News. It is in very good preservation. In this +palace stands the third metal column--Feroze-Schachs-Laht. The +inscriptions upon it show that it existed a hundred years before the +birth of Christ, and may therefore be considered as one of the +oldest monuments of India. It was brought here from Lahore at the +time this palace was built. + +The Purana-Killa, or the old fortress of the palace of Babar, is +much decayed. From the height and style of the remaining fragments +of gateways and walls, an idea may be formed of the magnitude of the +palace. + +The ruins of Loglukabad are in an advanced state of dilapidation, +and do not repay the trouble of a journey of seven miles. + +The other numerous ruins are little more than mere repetitions of +those already described, with which, however, they cannot be +compared in size, elegance, and beauty. They may be of great +interest to antiquarians and historians; but by myself, I candidly +admit, they were not much valued. + +I must not neglect to mention the English military station, which is +situated upon some low hills near New Delhi. The peculiar formation +of the ground renders a journey there extremely interesting: a +district of enormous blocks of red sandstone, between which +beautiful flowers were growing. There are numerous ruins here, much +the same as in Delhi. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY. + + + +THE THUGS OR STRANGLERS--DEPARTURE--CATTLE-MARKET--BARATPOOR--BIANA-- +WELLS AND PONDS--GOOD-NATURE OF THE INDIANS--POPPY PLANTATIONS--THE +SUTTIS--NOTARA--KOTTAH--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--THE ROYAL PALACE OF +ARMORNEVAS--AMUSEMENTS AND DANCES--THE HOLY VILLAGE OF KESHO-RAE- +PATUM. + +In order to reach Bombay, I had two routes before me; the one leads +past Simla to the foot of the Himalayas, the other to the famous +rock temples of Adjunta and Elora. I would gladly have chosen the +former, and have penetrated as far as the principal chain of the +Himalayas--Lahore and the Indus; but my friends advised me not to +make the attempt, for the simple reason, that these mountains were +covered with deep snow, in which case I must have postponed my +journey for at least three months. As I was unable to wait so long, +I decided upon taking the latter road. In Calcutta, I had been +recommended not to continue my journey beyond Delhi at all. They +said the country was not under the control of the English +government, and the people were far less civilized. People +endeavoured more especially to excite my apprehension by terrible +accounts of the Thugs or stranglers. + +These Thugs form a singular sect, whose object is robbery and +murder, and who, like the Italian banditti, are prepared to +undertake any atrocity for which they are paid. They must not, +however, in any case shed blood, and dare only make away with their +victim by strangling. The act is not considered as very criminal, +and the murderer absolves himself by a small present, which he gives +to his priest; but, if he sheds only one drop of blood, he falls +into the deepest disgrace, is expelled from his caste, and abandoned +even by his own associates. + +Many travellers affirm that the Thugs are a religious sect, and that +they do not murder for the sake of plunder or of revenge, but in +order, according to their belief, to ensure a meritorious action. I +made many inquiries about this, and learnt from every one that it +was no religious compulsion, but hatred, revenge, or desire of gain, +which led to these acts. These stranglers are represented as +possessing a most extraordinary dexterity in their abominable trade, +united with the most untiring patience and perseverance; they +frequently follow the victims they have selected for months, and +strangle them either while sleeping, or by stealing behind them and +throwing a twisted cloth or a cord round their necks, which they +draw tight with such rapidity and force that death ensues +instantaneously. + +In Delhi, I gained more information. I was assured that all these +dangers were exaggerated; that travellers were very rarely attacked +in India, and that the Thugs were much reduced in numbers. +Moreover, they did not make any attempt upon Europeans, as the +English government instituted the strictest search for the culprits. +With regard, therefore, to the danger, I was tolerably at ease, but +I had still to anticipate privation and fatigue. + +The first part of the journey was to Kottah, distant 290 miles. I +had the choice of three modes of conveyance--palanquins, camels, or +oxen bailis. None of them are expeditious; there are no highroads, +and no organized accommodation for travelling; you must retain the +same men and animals to the end of the journey, and, at the utmost, +cannot go more than from twenty to twenty-two miles in one day. For +a palanquin, it is necessary to engage eight bearers, besides +several for the luggage. Although each does not receive more than +eight rupees a-month, out of which he pays his own expenses; still +the expense is heavy, because so many are required, and their return +journey must be paid for. Travelling on camels is also expensive, +and is the most inconvenient. I decided, therefore, on adopting the +less costly mode of conveyance by oxen. As I travelled alone, Dr. +Sprenger very kindly made all the necessary preparations; he drew up +a written contract with the tschandrie (waggoner) in Hindostanee to +the effect that I was to pay him the half of the fare, fifteen +rupees (1 pounds 10s.), immediately, and the other half when we +arrived at Kottah, to which place he was to bring me in fourteen +days; for every day over that time I had the right to deduct three +rupees (6s.) Dr. Sprenger also sent one of his most trusty +cheprasses {193} to accompany me, and his good wife furnished me +with an excellent warm wrapper, and every kind of provision, so that +my waggon would hardly hold all that I had. + +With a sorrowful heart I parted from my good country people. God +grant that I may see them yet again during my life! + +On the morning of 30th of January, 1848, I left Delhi. The first +day, we made very little progress, only eighteen miles, which +brought us to Faridabad; the heavy awkward animals required to be +first used to the draught. The first twelve miles of the journey +afforded me some gratification, as along both sides of the road lay +innumerable ruins, which I had visited with my friends only a few +days previously. + +This, as well as the following nights, were passed in caravansaries. +I had no tent--no palanquins, and on this road there were no +bungalows. Unfortunately, the caravansaries in the smaller villages +are not to be compared with those in the larger towns; the cells are +rudely constructed of clay, their length is scarcely seven feet, and +the small opening, only four feet high, is without a door; but, to +my astonishment, I found them always very cleanly swept, and I was +also furnished with a low wooden stool, covered with network, upon +which I threw my wrapper, and which served me for an excellent +couch. The cheprasse laid himself, like Napoleon's Mameluke, before +the entrance of my cell; but he slept much more soundly, for, even +on the first night, he did not hear the least of a very sharp +encounter which I had with an enormous dog that had been attracted +by my well-filled provision basket. + +31st January. Towards noon, we passed through the little town of +Balamgalam, in which there is a small English military station, a +mosque, and a very recently-erected Hindoo temple. We passed the +night in the little town of Palwal. + +In this neighbourhood, the peacocks are very tame. Every morning, I +saw dozens of these beautiful birds on the trees; they come into the +fields, and even into the towns, to fetch food from the good-natured +natives. + +1st February. Our night's station on this day was the small town of +Cossi. We had already been overtaken during the last mile by a +number of natives, who were busily hurrying into the town, in and +outside of which a considerable cattle-market was being held. This +market presented a picture of the greatest confusion; the animals +stood on all sides between a multitude of trusses of hay and straw, +the sellers crying and praising their wares without cessation, and +leading the buyers here and there, partly by persuasion and partly +by force, who also made no less noise than the former. + +I was most struck by the innumerable cobblers, who set up their +simple working implements between the piled-up bundles of hay and +straw, consisting of small tables with thread, wire, and leather, +and who were busily engaged at their trade, repairing the coverings +for the feet. I remarked at this time, as well as on several other +occasions, that the natives are by no means so indolent as they are +generally represented to be, but, on the contrary, that they avail +themselves of every favourable opportunity of earning money. All +the caravansaries at the entrance of the town were crowded, and +there was no other alternative except to pass through the whole town +to the other side. The town-gate had a very promising appearance, +rising proudly and boldly into the air; I hoped to see corresponding +buildings, and saw instead wretched mud hovels and narrow lanes; so +narrow, indeed, that the foot passengers were obliged to step under +the entrances of the huts to allow our baili to pass them. + +2nd February. A few miles distant from Matara, we turned out of the +beaten road which leads from Delhi to Mutra, a town which still +remains under English government. Matara is a pretty little town, +with a very neat mosque, broad streets, and walled houses, many of +which, indeed, are decorated with galleries, columns, or sculptures +of red sandstone. + +The appearance of the country here is of monotonous uniformity-- +boundless plains, on which orchards and meadows alternately present +themselves, the latter apparently quite scorched up in consequence +of the dry season. The corn was already a foot high; but such large +quantities of yellow flowers were mixed with it, that there was +great difficulty in telling whether corn or weeds had been sown. +The cultivation of cotton is of very great importance here. The +Indian plant does not, indeed, attain the height and thickness of +the Egyptian; however, it is considered that the quality of the +cotton does not depend upon the size of the plants, and that the +cotton of this country is the finest and the best. + +I observed upon these plains little houses here and there, built +upon artificially-raised perpendicular mounds of clay, of from six +to eight feet high. There are no steps leading to the tops of these +mounds, the only means of access being by ladders, which can be +drawn up at night. From what I could draw from the explanations of +my servants, which, however, I only partially understood, they are +used by families, who live in retired places, for security against +the tigers, which are here very frequently seen. + +3rd February. Baratpoor. We passed a place which was overgrown, in +broad patches, with misshapen stunted bushes--a rare occurrence in +this part of the country, where wood is scarce. My driver bestowed +upon this tangled brushwood the high-sounding name of jungle. I +should rather have compared them with the dwarfed bushes and shrubs +of Iceland. The country beyond this woody district had a very +remarkable appearance; the ground was in many places torn and +fissured, as if in consequence of an earthquake. + +In the caravansary at Baratpoor there were a great number of +natives, soldiers, and particularly some very rough-looking men, of +whom I felt inclined to be afraid: I was no longer in the English +territories, and alone among all these people. However, they +behaved themselves with the greatest civility, and greeted me in the +evening and morning with a right hearty salaam. I think that a +similar set of men in our own country would scarcely have shown me +the same respect. + +4th February. On the other side of the town, I saw two fine +monuments before the door, round temples with lofty cupolas, and +carved stone lattice work in the window openings. The fields and +meadows were richly strewed with Indian fig-trees, a thing which I +have scarcely met with anywhere else, except in Syria and Sicily; to +the right of the road was a low rocky peak, whose highest point was +crowned by a fortress. The dwelling-houses of the commanders, +instead of being sheltered by the walls, rose high above them, and +were tastily surrounded by verandahs; on the terrace of the +principal building was a handsome pavilion, supported upon pillars. +The outer walls of the fortress extended down into the valley below. +We had proceeded about fourteen miles, when we came upon some +monuments which had a very unique appearance. On a small spot, +shaded by beautiful trees, was a round wall, formed of a number of +flagstones of seven feet high and four feet wide; in the middle +stood three monuments of a circular form, built of large square +stones. The diameter of their tower part was about twelve feet, +their height about six. They had no entrance. + +I also saw a new species of bird today. It was very similar in size +and form to the flamingo, with beautiful pinion feathers; its +plumage was tinged with a rich whitish grey shade, the head was +covered with deep red feathers. We rested this night at the +somewhat large town of Hindon. The only object which attracted my +notice here was a palace with such small windows, that they seemed +more fitted for dolls than for men. + +6th February. As I was about to leave the caravansary this morning, +three armed men placed themselves before my waggon, and in spite of +the exclamations of my people, prevented our starting. At last, I +succeeded in understanding that the dispute was about a few pence, +for having kept watch before the door of my sleeping-room during the +night, which my people would not pay. The caravansary did not +appear to the cheprasse very safe, and he had requested a guard in +the evening from the serdar (magistrate). The people might have +slept quite soundly in some corner of the court-yard, and, perhaps, +have dreamt of watching, for although I had looked out several times +during the night, there was not one of them to be seen; however, +what can one expect for a few pence? I satisfied them with a small +present, upon which they made a regular military movement, and +allowed us to proceed. + +If I had been inclined to be timid, I must have been in continual +anxiety for several days from the appearance of the natives. + +All of them were armed with sabres, bows and arrows, matchlocks, +formidable clubs bound with iron, and even shields of ironplate. +These arms were also carried by the cattle tenders in the fields. +But nothing disturbed my equanimity, although ignorant of the +language, and with only the old cheprasse with me; I always felt as +though my last hours were not yet come. Nevertheless, I was glad +that we had passed by clear daylight the dangerous ravines and deep +gorges through which our road lay for several miles. From these we +entered a large valley, at the entrance of which was an isolated +mountain, surmounted by a fortress; four miles further on, we came +to a small group of trees, in the middle of which was a stone +terrace, five feet in height, upon which was a life-size statue of a +horse carved in stone. By the side of this a well was dug out; a +kind of cistern, built of large blocks of red sandstone, with steps +leading up to the water. + +Similar wells and cisterns, some of which are much larger, screened +by beautiful mango and tamarind trees, are frequently met with in +India, especially in districts where, as in the present one, good +springs are scarce. The Hindoos and Mahomedans have the good belief +that by the erection of works for general benefit, they may more +easily attain future happiness. When such water reservoirs and +groups of trees have been founded by Hindoos, several sculptured +figures of their deities, or red painted stones, are commonly found +placed on them. At many of the wells, and cisterns also, a man is +placed, whose business it is to draw water for the weary travellers. + +However agreeable the erection of these reservoirs may be in many +respects, there is one circumstance which detracts from their value; +the people always wash and bathe in the same ones from which they +must procure their drinking water. But what objections will not +thirst silence? I filled my jug as well as the others! + +7th February. Dungerkamaluma is a small village at the foot of a +low mountain. A short distance from the station lay a true Arabian +sand desert, but which was fortunately not of very great extent. +The sand plains of India are generally capable of being cultivated, +as it is only necessary to dig a few feet deep to reach water, with +which to irrigate the fields. Even in this little desert were a few +fine-looking wheat fields. + +This evening I thought that I should have been obliged to make use +of my pistols. My waggoner always wanted every one to give him the +road; if they did not do so, he abused them. Today we came upon +half a dozen of armed traveller-waggoners, who took no notice of the +calls of my driver, upon which he was enraged, and threatened to +strike them with his whip. If it had come to blows, we should, no +doubt, in spite of my aid, have come off the worst; but they +contented themselves with mutual abuse and threats, and the fellows +got out of the way. + +I have everywhere remarked that the Indians jangle and threaten a +great deal, but that they never go beyond that. I have lived a +great deal among the people and observed them, and have often seen +anger and quarrelling, but never fighting. Indeed, when their anger +lasts long, they sit down together. The children never wrestle or +pull each other about, either in sport or earnest. I only once saw +two boys engaged in earnest quarrel, when one of them so far forgot +himself as to give the other a box on the ear, but he did this as +carefully as if he received the blow himself. The boy who was +struck drew his sleeve over his cheek, and the quarrel was ended. +Some other children had looked on from the distance, but took no +part in it. + +This good nature may partly depend upon the fact that the people eat +so little flesh, and, according to their religion, are so extremely +kind to all animals; but I think still that there is some cowardice +at the bottom of it. I was told that a Hindoo could scarcely be +persuaded to enter a dark room without a light; if a horse or ox +makes the slightest start, both great and small run frightened and +shrieking away. On the other side, again, I heard from the English +officers that the sepoys were very brave soldiers. Does this +courage come with the coat, or from the example of the English? + +During the last day I saw a great many poppy plantations. They +present a remarkable appearance; the leaves are fatty and shining, +the flowers large and variegated. The extraction of the opium is +performed in a very simple, but exceedingly tedious manner. The yet +unripe poppy heads are cut in several places in the evening. A +white tenacious juice flows out of these incisions, which quickly +thickens by exposure to the air, and remains hanging in small tears. +These tears are scraped off with a knife in the morning, and poured +into vessels which have the form of a small cake. A second inferior +quantity is obtained by pressing and boiling the poppy heads and +stems. + +In many books, and, for instance, in Zimmerman's "Pocket-Book of +Travels," I read under this head that the poppy plants reached a +height of forty feet in India and Persia, and that the capsules were +as large as a child's head, and held nearly a quart of seeds. This +is not correct. I saw the finest plantations in India, and +afterwards also in Persia, but found that the plants were never more +than three, and, at the most, four feet high, and the capsule about +as large round as a small hen's egg. + +8th February. Madopoor, a wretched village at the foot of some low +mountains. Today also we passed through terrible ravines and +chasms, which like those of yesterday, were not near the mountains, +but in the middle of the plains. The sight of some palms was, on +the contrary, agreeable, the first I had seen since I left Benares; +however, they bore no fruit. I was still more surprised to see, in +a place so destitute of trees and shrubs, tamarind, and banyan or +mango trees planted singly, which, cultivated with great care, +flourish with incomparable splendour and luxuriance. Their value is +doubled when it is known that under each there is either a well or a +cistern. + +9th February. Indergur, a small, unimportant town. We approached +today very much nearer to the low mountains which we had already +seen yesterday. We soon found ourselves in narrow valleys, whose +outlets appeared to be closed with high, rocky wells. Upon some of +the higher mountain peaks stood little kiosks, dedicated to the +memory of the Suttis. The Suttis are those women who are burnt with +the corpse of their husbands. According to the statement of the +Hindoos, they are not compelled to do so, but their relations insult +and neglect them when they do not, and they are driven out of +society; consequently the poor women generally give their free +consent. Upon the occasion, they are handsomely dressed and +ornamented, and frequently stupefied with opium almost to madness; +are led with music and singing to the place where the corpse of the +husband, wrapped in white muslin, lies upon the funeral pile. At +the moment that the victim throws herself upon the corpse, the wood +is lighted on all sides. At the same time, a deafening noise is +commenced with musical instruments, and every one begins to shout +and sing, in order to smother the howling of the poor woman. After +the burning, the bones are collected, placed in an urn, and interred +upon some eminence under a small monument. Only the wives (and of +these only the principal or favourite ones) of the wealthy or noble +have the happiness to be burnt! Since the conquest of Hindostan by +the English, these horrible scenes are not permitted to take place. + +The mountain scenery alternated with open plains, and towards +evening we came to still more beautiful mountains. A small +fortress, which was situated upon the slope of a mountain, quite +exposed, presented a very interesting appearance; the mosques, +barracks, little gardens, etc., could be entirely overlooked. At +the foot of this fortress lay our night-quarters. + +10th February. Notara. We travelled a long distance through narrow +valleys, upon roads which were so stony that it was scarcely +possible to ride, and I thought every moment that the waggon must be +broken to pieces. So long as the sun was not scorching on my head, +I walked by the side, but I was soon compelled to seek the shade of +the linen covering of the wagon. I bound up my forehead tightly, +grasped both sides of the car, and submitted to my fate. The jungle +which surrounded us resembled in beauty and luxuriance that near +Baratpoor but it afforded me more amusement, as it was inhabited by +wild apes. They were tolerably large, with yellowish, brown hair, +black faces, and very long tails. + +It was very pretty to see how anxious the mothers were about their +young. When I startled them, she took one upon her back, the other +clung to her breast, and with this double weight she not only sprung +from branch to branch, but even from tree to tree. + +If I had only possessed somewhat more imaginative power, I should +have taken the forest for a fairy wood, for besides the merry +monkeys, I saw many remarkable things. The rock sides and debris to +the left of the road, for example, had the most singular and varied +forms. Some resembled the ruins of temples and houses, others +trees; indeed, the figure of a woman with a child in her arms, was +so natural, that I could scarcely help feeling a regret at seeing it +turned into this dismal lifelessness. Further on, lay a gate, whose +noble artistic construction so deceived me, that I long sought for +the ruins of the town to which it appeared to lead. + +Not far distant from the jungle is the little town of Lakari, +situated upon the almost perpendicular declivity of a mountain +ridge, and also protected by fortifications. A beautiful pond, a +large well with an artificial portico, terraces with Hindoo idols +and Mahomedan funeral monuments, lie in very attractive disorder. +Before Notara I found several altars, with the sacred bull carved in +red stone. In the town itself stood a handsome monument, an open +temple with columns upon a stone terrace, which was surrounded with +fine reliefs, representing elephants and riders. + +There was no caravansary at this place, and I was obliged to go +about the streets with my cumbrous equipage in search of a lodging; +but as no one would receive a Christian, not from any want of good +nature, but in consequence of an erroneous religious opinion that a +house which has been visited by an unbeliever is defiled. This +opinion also extends to many other matters. + +There was no alternative left for me except to pass the night in an +open verandah. + +In this town I saw a circumstance which proved the amiability of the +people. A donkey, that was maimed either from its birth or by an +accident, was dragging itself with great exertion across the street, +a task which it required several minutes to accomplish. Several +people who were coming that way with their loaded animals waited +with great patience, without making a single murmur or raising a +hand to drive the creature on. Many of the inhabitants came out of +their houses and gave it fodder, and every passer-by turned out of +the way for it. This feeling of sympathy touched me uncommonly. + +11th February. On this, the thirteenth day of my journey, I reached +Kottah. I was very well satisfied with my servants and driver, and +indeed with the journey altogether! The owners of the caravansaries +had not charged me more than a native; and had afforded me all the +conveniences which the strict rules of religion allowed. I had +passed the nights in open chambers, even under the open sky, +surrounded by people of the poorest and lowest classes, and never +received the slightest ill-treatment either by word or deed. I +never had anything stolen, and when ever I gave any little trifle to +a child, {200} such as a piece of bread, cheese, or the like, their +parents always endeavoured to show their gratitude by other acts of +kindness. Oh, that the Europeans only knew how easily these simple +children of nature might be won by attention and kindness! But, +unfortunately, they will continue to govern them by force, and treat +them with neglect and severity. + +Kottah is the chief city of the kingdom of Rajpootan. Here, as in +all those provinces which the English government has left under the +dominion of their native princes, there is an English official +appointed, who bears the title of the "Resident." These residents +might be properly called "kings," or at least the king's governors, +since the real kings cannot do anything without their consent. +These miserable shadows of kings dare not, for example, cross the +boundaries of their own states without permission of the resident. +The more important fortresses of the country have English garrisons, +and here and there small English military stations are established. + +This control is in some respects beneficial to the people, in others +injurious. The custom of burning widows is done away with, and +strictly forbidden; as well as the horrible punishment of being +trodden to death by elephants, or dragged along, tied to their +tails. On the other hand, the taxation is increased, for the king +is obliged to pay a considerable tribute for the right of ruling +according to the will of the resident. This naturally comes out of +the pockets of the people. The King of Rajpootan pays annually +300,000 rupees (30,000 pounds) to the English government. + +The resident at Kottah, Captain Burdon, was an intimate friend of +Dr. Sprenger's, who had previously acquainted him with my speedy +arrival. But, unfortunately, he was at that time inspecting the +different military stations; however, he had before his departure +made arrangements for my reception, and requested Dr. Rolland to see +them carried out. He carried his attentions so far as to send on +books, newspapers, and servants, to the last station, which, +however, I missed, as my driver had turned off from the main road, +during the last two days, into a shorter one. I reached the +handsome bungalow of the resident, and found the house quite vacant; +Mrs. Burdon, together with her children, had accompanied her +husband, as is generally the case in India, where frequent change of +air is very necessary for Europeans. The house, the servants, and +sepoys which were left, and the captain's palanquin and equipage, +were placed entirely at my disposal; and in order to complete my +happiness, Dr. Rolland was so good as to accompany me in all my +excursions. + +12th February. This morning, the king, Ram-Singh, who had been +immediately informed of my arrival, sent me a quantity of fruits and +sweetmeats in large baskets, his own riding elephant, handsomely +caparisoned, an officer on horseback, and some soldiers. I was very +soon seated with Dr. Rolland in the howdah, and trotted to the +neighbouring town. Kottah contains about 30,000 inhabitants, and +lies on the river Chumbal, in a far stretching and, in some places, +very rocky plain, 1,300 feet above the level of the sea. The town, +which is conspicuously situated, is surrounded by strong fortified +works, upon which are placed fifty pieces of cannon. The immediate +neighbourhood is rocky, naked, and barren. The interior of the town +is separated into three parts by as many gates. The first part is +inhabited by the poorer classes, and appeared very wretched. In the +two other parts the tradespeople and the gentry reside; they have an +incomparably better aspect. The principal street, although uneven +and stony, is sufficiently wide to allow carriages, and ponderous +beasts of burden, to pass without hindrance. + +The architecture of the houses is in the highest degree original. +The smallness of the windows had already attracted my notice in +Benares, here they are so narrow and low that it is hardly possible +to put the head out; they are for the most part closed with finely +worked stone lattice, instead of glass. Many of the houses have +large alcoves; in others there are spacious saloons on the first +floor, which rest on pillars and occupy the whole front of the +house; many of these halls were separated by partition walls into +smaller open saloons. At both corners of the hall were decorated +pavilions, and at the further end, doors leading to the interior of +the house. These halls are generally used as shops and places of +business; also as the resort of idlers, who sit upon mats and +ottomans, smoking their hookas and watching the bustle in the +streets. In other houses, again, the front walls were painted in +fresco, with terrible-looking dragons, tigers, lions, twice or +thrice as large as life, stretching their tongues out, with hideous +grimaces; or with deities, flowers, arabesques, etc., without sense +or taste grouped together, miserably executed, and bedaubed with the +most glaring colours. + +The numerous handsome Hindoo temples, all built upon lofty stone +terraces, form an agreeable feature of the town. They are higher, +more capacious, and finer buildings than those of Benares, with the +exception of the Bisvishas. The temples here stand in open halls, +intersected by colonnades, ornamented with several quadrangular +towers, and surmounted by a cupola of from twenty to forty feet in +height. The sanctuary is in the middle; it is a small, carefully +enclosed building, with a door leading into it. This door, as well +as the pillars and friezes, is covered with beautiful sculptures; +the square towers are quite as carefully constructed as those at +Benares. Hideous statues and fanciful figures stand under the +halls, some of which are painted in bright red colours. On the side +walls of the terraces are arabesques, elephants, horses, etc., +carved in relief. + +The royal palace lies at the extremity of the third part of the +town, and forms a town within a town, or rather a fortress in a +fortress, as it is surrounded by immense fortified walls, which +command the town as well as the country round it; many large and +small buildings are enclosed within these walls, but do not present +anything remarkable beyond their handsome halls. Had the resident +been in Kottah I should have been presented to the king, but as it +was not etiquette in his absence, I was compelled to put up with my +disappointment. + +From the town we proceeded to Armornevas, one of the neighbouring +palaces of the king's. The road to it was indescribably bad, full +of rocks and large stones. I was astonished to see with what +dexterity our elephant set his plump feet between them, and +travelled on as quickly as if he was going over the levellest road. + +When I expressed my surprise to Dr. Rolland that the king should not +have a good road made to his residence, which he so often visited, +he informed me that it was a maxim with all Indian monarchs not to +make roads, for, according to their opinion, in case of a war, they +offered too great facilities to the invasion of the enemy. + +The castle is small and unimportant. It lies on the river Chumbal, +which has here hollowed out for itself a remarkably deep bed in the +rock. Picturesque ravines and groups of rock form its shores. + +The garden of the castle is so thickly planted with orange, citron, +and other trees, that there is not room for even the smallest +flowering plant or shrub. + +The few flowers which the Indian gardens contain, are placed at the +entrances. The paths are raised two feet, as the ground is always +muddy and damp in consequence of the frequent watering. Most of the +Indian gardens which I afterwards saw resembled these. + +The king frequently amuses himself here with tiger-hunting. +Somewhat higher up the river small towers are erected upon slight +eminences; the tigers are driven gradually towards the water, and +always more and more hemmed in, until they are within shot of the +towers; the king and his friends sit securely upon the tops of the +towers, and fire bravely upon the wild beasts. + +Near the castle was a small wooden temple, which had just been +built; the principal part, however, the amiable idols, was awanting. +It was owing to this fortunate circumstance that we were allowed to +enter the sanctuary, which consisted of a small marble kiosk +standing in the centre of the hall. The temple and the columns were +covered with bad paintings in the most brilliant colours. It is +strange that neither the Hindoos nor the Mahometans should have +applied themselves to painting, for there are neither good pictures +nor drawings to be seen among any of these people, although they +have displayed such proficiency in architecture, carving in relief, +and in mosaic work. + +We lastly visited a remarkably fine wood of tamarind and mango +trees, under the shadows of which the ashes of a number of kings are +preserved in handsome monuments. These monuments consist of open +temples, with broad flights of ten or twelve steps leading up to +them. At the bottom of the steps, on each side, stand stone figures +of elephants. Some of the temples are ornamented with beautiful +sculptures. + +The evening was passed in all kinds of amusements. The good doctor +would have made me acquainted with all the arts of the Hindoos; +however, the greater number of them were no longer new to me. A +snake-charmer exhibited his little society, which performed very +clever tricks, and also allowed the most poisonous serpents to twine +themselves round his body, and the largest scorpions ran over his +arms and legs. Afterwards, four elegant female dancers appeared +dressed in muslin, ornamented with gold and silver, and loaded with +jewellery,--ears, forehead, neck, breast, loins, hands, arms, feet, +in short, every part of the body was covered with gold, silver, and +precious stones; even the toes were ornamented with them, and from +the nose, a large ring with three stones hung over the mouth. Two +of the dancers first commenced. Their dance consisted of the same +winding movements which I had already seen in Benares, only they +were far more animated, and twisted their fingers, hands, and arms +about in every conceivable manner. They might well be said to dance +with their arms but not with their feet. They danced for ten +minutes without singing, then they began to scream, without however +keeping time, and their motions became more violent and wild, until +in about half an hour both strength and voice failed, they stopped +quite exhausted, and made way for their sisters, who repeated the +same spectacle. Dr. Rolland told me that they represented a love +story, in which every virtue and passion, such as truth, self- +devotion, hate, persecution, despair, etc., played a part. The +musicians stood a little behind the dancers, and followed all their +movements. The whole space which such a company requires, is at the +most ten feet in length and eight broad. The good Hindoos amuse +themselves for hours together with these tasteless repetitions. + +I remember having read in books that the Indian female dancers were +far more graceful than the European, that their songs were highly +melodious, and that their pantomime was tender, inspiring, and +attractive. I should scarcely think the authors of such books could +have been in India! Not less exaggerated are the descriptions of +others, who affirm that there are no dances more indelicate than +those of the Indians. I might again ask these people if they had +ever seen the Sammaquecca and Refolosa in Valparaiso, the female +dancers of Tahiti, or even our own in flesh-coloured leggings? The +dresses of the females in Rajpootan and some parts of Bundelkund are +very different from those of other parts of India. They wear long, +coloured, many-folded skirts, tight bodies, which are so short that +they scarcely cover the breasts; and, over this, a blue mantle, in +which they envelop the upper part of the body, the head, and the +face, and allow a part to hang down in front like a veil. Girls who +do not always have the head covered, nearly resemble our own peasant +girls. Like the dancers, they are overloaded with jewellery; when +they cannot afford gold and silver, they content themselves with +some other metals. They wear also rings of horn, bone, or glass +beads, on the fingers, arms, and feet. On the feet they carry +bells, so that they are heard at a distance of sixty paces; the toes +are covered with broad heavy rings, and they have rings hanging from +their noses down to the chin, which they are obliged to tie up at +meal time. I pitied the poor creatures, who suffered not a little +from their finery! The eyebrows and eyelids are dyed black while +the children are very young, and they frequently paint themselves +with dark-blue streaks of a finger's breadth over the eyebrows, and +with spots on the forehead. The adult women tattoo their breasts, +foreheads, noses, or temples with red, white, or yellow colours, +according as they are particularly attached to one or the other +deity. Many wear amulets or miniatures hung round their necks, so +that I at first thought they were Catholics, and felt gratified at +the brilliant successes of the missionaries. But, when I came +nearer to one of the people, that I might see these pictures better, +what did I discover there? Perhaps a beautiful Madonna!--a fair- +haired angel's head!--an enthusiastic Antonio of Padua! Ah no! I +was met by the eight-armed god Shiva grinning at me, the ox's head +of Vishnu, the long-tongued goddess Kalli. The amulets contained, +most probably, some of the ashes of one of their martyrs who had +been burned, or a nail, a fragment of skin, a hair of a saint, a +splinter from the bone of a sacred animal, etc. + +13th February. Dr. Rolland conducted me to the little town of +Kesho-Rae-Patum, one of the most sacred in Bunda and Rajpootan. It +lies on the other side of the river, six miles from Kottah. A great +number of pilgrims come here to bathe, as the water is considered +particularly sacred at this spot. This belief cannot be condemned, +when it is remembered how many Christians there are who give the +preference to the Holy Maria at Maria-Zell, Einsiedeln, or Loretto, +which, nevertheless, all represent one and the same. + +Handsome steps lead from the heights on the banks down to the river, +and Brahmins sit in pretty kiosks to take money from believers for +the honour of the gods. On one of the flights of steps lay a very +large tortoise. It might quietly sun itself there in safety--no one +thought of catching it. It came out of the sacred river; indeed, it +might, perhaps, be the incarnation of the god Vishnu himself. {204} +Along the river stood numbers of stone altars, with small bulls, and +other emblematical figures, also cut in stone. The town itself is +small and miserable, but the temple is large and handsome. + +The priests were here so tolerant as to admit us to all parts of the +temple. It is open on all sides, and forms an octagon. Galleries +run round the upper part, one-half of which are for women, the other +for the musicians. The sanctuary stands at the back of the temple; +five bells hang before it, which are struck when women enter the +temple; they rung out also at my entrance. The curtained and closed +doors were then opened, and afforded us a full view of the interior. +We saw there a little group of idols carved in stone. The people +who followed us with curiosity commenced a gentle muttering upon the +opening of the doors. I turned round, somewhat startled, thinking +that it was directed against us and indicated anger, but it was the +prayers, which they repeated in a low voice and with a feeling of +devotion. One of the Brahmins brushed off the flies from the +intelligent countenances of the gods. + +Several chapels join the large temple, and were all opened to us. +They contained red-painted stones or pictures. In the front court +sits a stone figure of a saint under a covering, completely clothed, +and with even a cap on the head. On the opposite bank of the river, +a small hill rises, upon which rests the figure of a large and +rather plump ox hewn in stone. This hill is called the "holy +mountain." + +Captain Burdon has built a very pretty house near the holy mountain, +where he sometimes lives with his family. I saw there a fine +collection of stuffed birds, which he had brought himself from the +Himalayas. I was particularly struck by the pheasants, some of +which shone with quite a metallic lustre; and there were some not +less beautiful specimens of heathcocks. + +I had now seen all, and therefore asked the doctor to order me a +conveyance to Indor, 180 miles distant, for the next day. He +surprised me with the offer, on the part of the king, to provide me +with as many camels as I required, and two sepoys on horseback as +attendants. I asked for two; the one for myself, the other for the +driver and the servants which Dr. Rolland sent with me. + + + +CHAPTER XV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY CONTINUED. + + + +TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS--MY MEETING WITH THE BURDON FAMILY--THE +DIFFERENT CLASSES OF WOMEN AMONG THE NATIVE POPULATION IN INDIA-- +UDJEIN--CAPTAIN HAMILTON--INTRODUCTION AT COURT--MANUFACTURE OF ICE-- +THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ADJUNTA--A TIGER HUNT--THE ROCK TEMPLES OF +ELORA--THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD. + +14TH February. The camels were ordered at 5 o'clock in the morning, +but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with a +driver. When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-five pounds in +weight), they were quite puzzled to know what to do with it. It was +useless my explaining to them how the luggage is carried in Egypt, +and that I had been accustomed to carry very little with me on my +own animal: they were used to a different plan, and would not +depart from it. + +Travelling on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome. The +jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill +effects as the rocking of a ship on the sea; but in India it is +almost unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the +arrangements. Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and +takes the best place; the traveller has only a little space left for +him on the hinder part of the animal. + +Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience as +well as I could. He told me that I should fall in with Captain +Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a more +convenient conveyance from him. I followed his advice, allowed my +luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel. + +We passed through extensive plains, which were most remarkable for +some considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake, +near to which lay a very pretty palace. Towards evening, we reached +the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night. + +In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are +neither roads nor arrangements for travelling; although in every +village and town there are people appointed whose business it is to +direct travellers on their way and carry their luggage, for which +they are paid a small fee. Those travellers who have a guard from +the king or aumil (governor), or a cheprasse with them, do not pay +anything for this attendance; others give them a trifle for their +services, according as the distance is greater or less. + +When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their services-- +for I travelled with the king's people, and in this part of the +country a European woman is a rarity. They brought me wood, milk, +and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished: at the +best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only +rice, with water and salt. A leathern vessel for water, a little +saucepan for boiling in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread, +were all that I took with me. + +15th February. Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a small +place surrounded by low mountains. I found here some tents +belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant. Terribly +fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest +myself. Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the maid +came into the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading +me about with her hands. I would have stopped her, but she +explained to me that when a person was fatigued it was very +refreshing. For a quarter of an hour she pressed my body from head +to foot vigorously, and it certainly produced a good effect--I found +myself much relieved and strengthened. This custom of pressing and +kneading is very common in India, as well as in all Oriental +countries, especially after the bath; and Europeans also willingly +allow themselves to be operated upon. + +The maid informed me, partly by signs, partly by words, that I had +been expected since noon; that a palanquin stood ready for me, and +that I could sleep as well in it as in the tent. I was rejoiced at +this, and again started on my journey at 11 o'clock at night. The +country was indeed, as I knew, infested with tigers, but as several +torch-bearers accompanied us, and the tigers are sworn enemies of +light, I could composedly continue my uninterrupted sleep. About 3 +o'clock in the morning, I was set down again in a tent, which was +prepared for my reception, and furnished with every convenience. + +16th February. This morning I made the acquaintance of the amiable +family of the Burdons. They have seven children, whom they educate +chiefly themselves. They live very pleasantly and comfortably, +although they are wholly thrown on their own resources for +amusement, as there are, with the exception of Dr. Rolland, no +Europeans in Kottah. It is only very rarely that they are visited +by officers who may be passing through, and I was the first European +female Mrs. Burdon had seen for four years. + +I passed the most delightful day in this family circle. I was not a +little astonished to find here all the conveniences of a well- +regulated house; and I must take this opportunity of describing, in +few words, the mode of travelling adopted by the English officers +and officials in India. + +In the first place, they have tents which are so large, that they +contain two or three rooms; one which I saw was worth more than 800 +rupees (80 pounds). They take with them corresponding furniture, +from a footstool to the most elegant divan; in fact, nearly the +whole of the house and cooking utensils. They have also a multitude +of servants, every one of whom has his particular occupation, which +he understands exceedingly well. The travellers, after passing the +night in their beds, about 3 o'clock in the morning either lie or +sit in easy palanquins, or mount on horseback, and after four or +five hours' ride, dismount, and partake of a hot breakfast under +tents. They have every household accommodation, carry on their +ordinary occupations, take their meals at their usual hours, and +are, in fact, entirely at home. + +The cook always proceeds on his journey at night. As soon as the +tents are vacated, they are taken down and quickly removed, and as +quickly re-erected: there is no scarcity of hands or of beasts of +burden. In the most cultivated countries of Europe, people do not +travel with so much luxury and ease as in India. + +In the evening, I was obliged to take my departure again. Captain +Burdon very kindly offered me the use of his palanquin and the +necessary bearers as far as Indos, but I pitied the people too much, +and declared that I did not find travelling on camels unpleasant; +that in fact, on account of the open view, that mode was to be +preferred to palanquins. However, on account of my little +portmanteau, I took a third camel. I left the sepoys behind here. +This evening we went eight miles towards the little town Patan. + +17th February. It was not till this morning that I saw Patan was +situated on a romantic chain of hills, and possesses several +remarkably handsome temples, in the open halls belonging to which +are placed sculptured stone figures, the size of life. The +arabesques and figures on the pillars were sharply executed in +relief. In the valleys which we passed through, there was a large +quantity of basaltic rock and most beautifully crystallized quartz. +Towards evening, we reached Batschbachar, a miserable little town. + +18th February. Rumtscha is somewhat larger and better. I was +obliged to put up my bed in the middle of the bazaar under an open +verandah. Upon this road there were no caravansaries. Half of the +inhabitants of the town gathered round me, and watched all my +motions and doings with the greatest attention. I afforded them an +opportunity of studying the appearance of an angry European female, +as I was very much displeased with my people, and, in spite of my +slight knowledge of the language, scolded them heartily. They +allowed the camels to go so lazily, that although we had travelled +since early in the morning until late in the evening, we had not +gone more than twenty or twenty-two miles, not faster than an ox- +waggon would have gone. I made them understand that this negligence +must not happen again. I must now take occasion to contradict those +persons who affirm that the camel can travel on the average eighty +miles daily, and that even when they go slowly, their steps are very +long. I examine every circumstance very accurately, and then form +an opinion from my own experience, without allowing myself to be +misled by what has been written about it. Before commencing a +journey, I observe not only the principal distances, but also those +between the individual places, arrange a plan of my journey with the +help of friends who are acquainted with the subject, and by this +means have the advantage over my driver, who cannot persuade me that +we have gone forty or sixty miles, when we have not gone more than +half this distance. Moreover, I was able, while travelling from +Delhi to Kottah by the ox-waggon, to observe several camel +equipages, which I fell in with every evening at the same night +station. It is true that I had most excellent oxen, and that the +camels were ordinary; but in this journey, with good camels, I did +not go more than thirty, or at the utmost, thirty-two miles in the +day, and travelled from 4 o'clock in the morning until 6 in the +evening, without any other stoppage than two hours at noon. A camel +which is able to travel eighty miles in a day is an exception to the +general rule, and would scarcely perform such a feat the second or +third time. + +19th February. Ranera is an unimportant place. I was here offered +a cow-stall to sleep in. It was indeed kept very clean; but I +preferred sleeping in the open air. + +Till a late hour of the night this town was very lively: +processions of men and a number of women and children followed the +noise of the tam-tam, which they accompanied with a wild, howling +song, and proceeded to some tree, under which an image of an idol +was set up. + +We had on this day to cross several ranges of low hills. The +uncultivated ground was everywhere scorched up by the sun; {209} +nevertheless, the plantations of poppies, flax, corn, and cotton, +etc., grew very luxuriantly. Water-dykes were let into the fields +on every side, and peasants, with their yokes of oxen, were engaged +in bringing water from the wells and streams. I did not see any +women at work. + +In my numerous journeys, I had an opportunity of observing that the +lot of the poorer classes of women in India, in the East, and among +coloured people generally, was not so hard as it is believed to be. +In the towns where Europeans reside, for example, their linen is +washed and prepared by men; it is very seldom that it is necessary +for women to take part in out-door labour; they carry wood, water, +or any other heavy burdens only in their own houses. At harvest +time, indeed, the women are seen in the fields, but there also they +only do the lighter kind of work. If carriages with horses or oxen +are seen, the women and children are always seated upon them, and +the men walk by the side, often laden with bundles. When there are +no beasts of burden with the party, the men carry the children and +baggage. I also never saw a man ill use his wife or child. I +heartily wish that the women of the poorer classes in my own country +were treated with only half the consideration which I saw in all +other parts of the world. + +20th February. Udjein on the Seepa, one of the oldest and best +built towns of India, is the capital of the kingdom of Sindhia, with +a population of more than 100,000 souls. + +The architecture of this town is quite peculiar: the front walls of +the houses, only one story high, are constructed of wood, and +furnished with large regular window openings in the upper part, +which are securely closed by beams, instead of glass. In the +interior, the apartments are built very lofty and airy: they have +the full height from the level of the ground to the roof, without +the interruption of an intermediate arch. The outer walls and beams +of the houses are painted with a dark brown oil colour, which gave +to the town an indescribably dusky appearance. + +Two houses were remarkable for their size and the uncommonly fine +execution of the wood carvings. They contained two stories, and +were very tastefully ornamented with galleries, pillars, friezes, +niches, etc. As far as I could learn from the answers I received to +my questions, and the numerous servants and soldiers walking about +before them, they were the palaces of the aumil and the Queen Widow +of Madhadji-Sindhia. + +We passed through the entire town; the streets were broad, the +bazaars very extensive, and so overcrowded with men, that we were +frequently compelled to stop; it happened to be a large market. +Upon such occasions in India, as well as at great festivals and +meetings of people, I never once saw any one intoxicated, although +there was no lack of intoxicating drinks. The men here are +temperate, and restrain themselves, yet without forming into +societies. + +Outside the town I found an open verandah, in which I took up my +quarters for the night. + +I was here a witness of a deplorable scene, a consequence of an +erroneous religious belief of the otherwise amiable Hindoos. Not +far from the verandah lay a fakir, outstretched upon the earth, +without any signs of life; many of the passers-by stopped, looked at +him, and then went on their way. No one spoke to or helped him. +The poor man had sunk exhausted on this spot, and was no longer +capable of saying to what caste he belonged. I took heart, +approached him, and raised the head-cloth, which had fallen over a +part of his face; two glassy eyes stared at me. I felt the body; it +was stiff and cold. My help came too late. + +The next morning the corpse still lay in the same place. I was +informed that they waited to see if any relations would come to +carry it away, if not it would be removed by the pariahs. + +21st February. In the afternoon I reached Indor, the capital of the +kingdom of Holkar. + +As I approached the dwelling of the Europeans, I found them just +about to ride out. The equipage of the resident, Mr. Hamilton, to +whom I had letters, was distinguishable from the others by its +greater splendour. Four beautiful horses were harnessed to an open +landau, and four servants, in Oriental liveries, ran by the side of +the carriage. The gentlemen had scarcely perceived my approach, +when they stopped, and sent a servant towards me; they, perhaps, +wished to know what chance had thrown a solitary European female +into this remote country. My servant, who already had the letter to +Mr. Hamilton in his hand, hastened to him directly, and gave it to +him. Mr. Hamilton read it hastily through, alighted from his +carriage immediately, came and received me very cordially. My +shabby clothes, faded by the sun, were of no account to him, and he +did not treat me with less respect, because I came without much +baggage, and without a train of attendants. + +He conducted me himself to the bungalow, set apart for strangers, +offered me several rooms, and remained until he saw that the +servants had properly provided all conveniences. After he had given +me a servant for my own exclusive use, and had ordered a guard +before the bungalow, in which I was about to live alone, he took his +departure, and promised to send for me to dinner in an hour. + +A few hundred paces distant from the bungalow is the palace of the +resident; it is a building of very great beauty, constructed of +large, square stones, in a pure Italian style of architecture. +Broad flights of steps led up into halls which are peculiarly +remarkable for their magnitude and beautifully arched roofs, the +latter being finer than any that I had yet seen. The saloons, +rooms, and internal arrangements corresponded to the high +expectations which the sight of the outside raised. + +It was a Sunday, and I had the pleasure of finding the whole +European society of Indor assembled at the house of the resident. +It consisted of three families. My astonishment at the magnificence +surrounding me, at the luxuries at table, was yet more increased +when a complete, well-trained band of musicians commenced playing +fine overtures and some familiar German melodies. After dinner Mr. +Hamilton introduced the chaplain to me, a Tyrolese, named Naher. +This active man had established his chapel in the space of three +years, the congregation consisting chiefly of young natives. + +I was invited to be present on the following morning at the first +operation performed here, by a European surgeon, on a patient under +the influence of ether. A large tumour was to be extracted from the +neck of a native. Unfortunately the inhalation did not turn out as +was expected: the patient came to again after the first incision, +and began shrieking fearfully. I hastily left the room, for I +pitied the poor creature too much to bear his cries. The operation +indeed was successful, but the man suffered considerable pain. + +During breakfast, Mr. Hamilton proposed that I should exchange my +apartments in the bungalow for a similar one in his palace, because +the going backwards and forwards at each meal time was very +fatiguing. He placed at my disposal the rooms of his wife, who was +deceased, and appointed me a female servant. + +After tiffen (lunch) I was to see the town, and be presented at +court. I employed the intermediate time in visiting Mr. and Mrs. +Naher. The latter, who was also a German, was moved even to tears +when she saw me: for fifteen years she had not spoken with a +fellow-countrywoman. + +The town of Indor contains nearly 25,000 inhabitants; it is not +fortified; the houses are built in the same manner as those in +Udjein. + +The royal palace stands in the centre of the town, and forms a +quadrangle. The middle of the front rises in the form of a pyramid, +to the height of six stories. A remarkably lofty and very handsome +gateway, flanked on both sides by round and somewhat projecting +towers, leads into the court-yard. The exterior of the palace is +completely covered with frescoes, for the most part representing +elephants and horses, and from a distance they present a good +appearance. The interior is separated into several courts. In the +first court, on the ground floor, is situated a saloon, surrounded +by two rows of wooden pillars. The Durwar (ministerial council) is +held here. In the first story of the same building a fine open +saloon is appropriated to the use of some sacred oxen. + +Opposite this cattle-stall is the reception-room. Dark stairs, +which require to be lighted in broad daylight, lead to the royal +apartments. The stairs are said to be equally dark in almost all +the Indian palaces; they believe it is a security against enemies, +or, at least, that it makes their entrance more difficult. In the +reception saloon sat the queen, Jeswont-Rao-Holcar, an aged, +childless widow; at her side her adopted son, Prince Hury-Rao- +Holcar, a youth of fourteen years, with very good-natured features +and expressive eyes. Seats, consisting of cushions, were placed for +us by their side. The young prince spoke broken English, and the +questions which he put to me proved him to be well acquainted with +geography. His mundsch, {212a} a native, was represented as a man +of intelligence and learning. I could not find an opportunity, +after the audience, of complimenting him upon the progress which the +prince had made. The dress of the queen and of the prince consisted +of white Dacca muslin; the prince had several precious stones and +pearls upon his turban, breast, and arms. The queen was not veiled, +although Mr. Hamilton was present. + +All the apartments and passages were crowded with servants, who, +without the slightest ceremony, came into the audience-hall, that +they might observe us more closely; we sat in a complete crowd. + +We were offered sweetmeats and fruits, sprinkled with rosewater, and +some attar of roses was put upon our handkerchiefs. After some time +areca nuts and betel leaves were brought on silver plates, which the +queen herself handed to us; this is a sign that the audience is at +an end, and visitors cannot leave until it is made. Before we got +up to go, large wreaths of jasmine were hung round our necks, and +small ones round our wrists. Fruits and sweetmeats were also sent +home to us. + +The queen had given the mundsch directions to conduct us round the +whole of the palace. It is not very large, and the rooms, with the +exception of the reception-saloon, are very simple, and almost +without furniture; in each, cushions covered with white muslin lie +upon the floor. + +As we stood upon the terrace of the house, we saw the prince ride +out. Two servants led his horse, and a number of attendants +surrounded him. Several officers accompanied him upon elephants, +and mounted soldiers closed the procession. The latter wore wide +white trousers, short blue jackets, and handsome round caps; they +looked very well. The people raised a low murmur when they saw the +prince, as an indication of their pleasure. + +The mundsch was good enough to show me the mode adopted for making +ice. The proper time for this is during the months of December and +January; although, even in the month of February, the nights, and +especially the early hours of the morning before sun-rise, are so +cold, that small quantities of water are covered with a thin sheet +of ice. For this purpose, either shallow pits are dug in earth rich +in saltpetre, {212b} and small shallow dishes of burnt porous clay +are filled with water, and placed in these pits, or when the soil +does not contain any saltpetre, the highest terraces on the houses +are covered with straw, and the little dishes of water are placed up +there. The thin crusts of ice thus obtained are broken into small +pieces, a little water is poured over them, and the whole is put +into the ice-houses, which are also lined with straw. This mode of +obtaining ice is already practised in Benares. + +Mr. Hamilton was so obliging as to make the arrangements for the +continuance of my journey. I could have had the royal camels again, +but preferred a car with oxen, as the loss of time was +inconsiderable, and the trouble far less. Mr. Hamilton himself made +the contract with the driver, pointed out the stations at which we +should stop between this and Auranjabad (230 miles), gave me an +excellent servant and sepoy, furnished me with letters, and even +asked me if I had sufficient money. This excellent man did all this +with so much amiability, that, in fact, I scarcely knew whether the +kindnesses or the way in which they were offered, were most to be +admired. And not only in Indor, but everywhere else that he was +known, I heard his name always mentioned with the most profound +respect. + +On the 23rd of February I left Indor on my way to the little village +of Simarola. The road led through delightful groves of palm-trees +and richly cultivated land. In Simarola, I found a pretty and +comfortably furnished tent, which Mr. Hamilton had sent on, in order +to surprise me with a good night station. I silently thanked him +most heartily for his care. + +24th February. From Simarola the country was truly picturesque. A +narrow ledge of rock, in some places scarcely broad enough for the +road, led down a considerable declivity {213} into small valleys, on +the sides of which beautiful mountains towered up. The latter were +thinly wooded; among the trees I was particularly struck by two +species, the one with yellow, the other with red flowers; both of +them, very singularly, were quite destitute of leaves. + +On this side of Kottah the camel trains were less frequent, in +consequence of the very stony state of the road; instead of these, +we met trains of oxen. We passed some today of incredible extent. +I do not exaggerate when I affirm that I have seen trains of several +thousand head of cattle, on whose backs, corn, wool, salt, etc., +were conveyed. I cannot imagine where the food for so many animals +is obtained; there are nowhere any meadows, for, with the exception +of the plantations, the ground is scorched up, or at most covered +with thin, parched, jungle grass, which I never saw any animal eat. + +The industry of the women and children in the villages through which +these trains pass is great beyond measure; they provide themselves +with baskets, and follow the train for a considerable distance, +collecting the excrement of the oxen, which they work up into flat +bricks, and dry them in the sun to use as fuel. Late in the +evening, we entered the village of Burwai, which lies on the river +Nurbuda, in the midst of a storm of thunder and lightning. I was +told that there was a public bungalow here, but as the darkness of +the night prevented our finding it, I contented myself with the +balcony of a house. + +25th February. We had this morning to cross the river Nurbuda, +which, with the preparations for doing so, occupied two hours. + +26th February. Rostampoor. Between this place and Simarola, the +land is rather barren, and also very thinly inhabited; we often +travelled several miles without seeing a village. + +27th February. Today we were gratified with the prospect of a +fertile country and beautiful mountains. On an isolated mountain +was situated the famous old fortress of Assergur, from which arose +two half-decayed minarets. Towards evening we passed between many +ruins; amongst which I observed another handsome mosque, the fore- +court, the minarets, and side walls of which were standing. +Adjoining this district of ruins, lay the very flourishing town of +Berhampoor, which still numbers 60,000 inhabitants, but I was told +that it was formerly much larger. + +An aumil resides in the town, and also an English officer, who keeps +an eye on his proceedings. We were obliged to pass through the +whole town, through the deep river Taptai, up and down hill, and +over shocking roads, to reach the bungalow of the latter, so that we +did not arrive there till late at night. Captain Henessey and his +family were already supping: they received me with true cordiality, +and, although worn out with fatigue, and much travel-stained, I took +my place at their hospitable table, and continued a conversation +with this amiable family until a late hour of the night. + +28th February. Unfortunately I was obliged to proceed on my journey +again this morning. Between Berhampoor and Ichapoor, there were the +most beautiful and varied plantations--corn, flax, cotton, sugar- +cane, poppies, dahl, etc. The heat had already began to be +oppressive (towards 108 degrees Fah.) I was at the same time +continually on the road from 4 o'clock in the morning, till 5 or 6 +in the evening, and only seldom made a short halt on the banks of +some river, or under a tree. It was altogether impossible to travel +at night, as the heaths and jungles were frequently of great extent, +and moreover, somewhat infested with tigers, the presence of which +we experienced on the following day; besides all this, my people +were unacquainted with the road. + +29th February. Today's stage was one of the most considerable; we +therefore started as early as 3 o'clock in the morning; the road +passed through terrible wastes and wild jungles. After we had +proceeded for some time quietly, the animals stopped short and +remained as if fixed to the ground, and began to tremble; their fear +soon communicated itself to my people, who shouted, without +intermission, the words "Bach! bach!" which means "Tiger! tiger!" I +ordered them to continue making as much noise as possible, in order +to scare away the animals if they really were near. I had some +jungle grass gathered and made a fire, which I kept constantly +blazing. However, I heard no howling, and observed no other +indication of our dreaded neighbour than the terror of my people and +cattle. Nevertheless, I awaited the sunrise this time with great +anxiety, when we continued our journey. We afterwards learnt that +scarcely a night passes in this neighbourhood without an ox, horse, +or goat being carried off by tigers. Only a few days previously, a +poor woman who was late in returning from gathering jungle grass, +had been torn to pieces. All the villages were surrounded with high +stone and mud walls, whether from fear of the wild beasts, or from +any other cause, I could not learn with certainty. These fortified +villages extend as far as Auranjabad, over a distance of 150 miles. + +March 1st. Bodur is an unimportant village. Upon the road from +Indor to Auranjabad, there are no bungalows with rooms, and it is +very seldom that even an open one is to be found--that is, a +building with three wooden walls, over which a roof is thrown. We +found one of these bungalows in Bodur. It was indeed already taken +possession of by about a dozen Indian soldiers, but they withdrew +unasked, and gave up to me half of the airy chamber. During the +whole night they remained still and quiet, and were not the +slightest annoyance. + +2nd March. Furdapoor, a small village at the foot of beautiful +mountains. As the poor oxen began to be wearied with travelling, +the driver rubbed them down every evening from head to foot. + +3rd March. Adjunta. Before coming to this place we passed a +terrible rocky pass which might be easily defended. The road was +very narrow, and so bad that the poor animals could scarcely make +any way with the empty cars. On the heights of the pass, a strongly +fortified gate was placed, which closed the narrow road; it was, +however, left open in time of peace. The low ground and the heights +on the sides were rendered inaccessible by strong and lofty walls. + +The view became more delightful at every step: romantic valleys and +ravines, picturesque masses and walls of rock lay on both sides, +immeasurable valleys spread themselves out behind the mountains, +while in front the view swept over an extensive open plain, at the +commencement of which lay the fortress of Adjunta. We had already +reached it at about 8 o'clock in the morning. Captain Gill resides +in Adjunta, and I had letters of introduction to him from Mr. +Hamilton. When I expressed a wish, after the first greeting was +over, to visit the famous rock temples of Adjunta, he deeply +regretted that he had not received a letter from me four-and-twenty +hours sooner, as the temples were nearer to Furdapoor than to +Adjunta. What was to be done? I was resolved upon seeing them, and +had but little time to lose, so I decided upon retracing my way. I +only provided myself with a small stock of provisions, and +immediately mounted one of the horses from the captain's stable, +which brought me past the rocky pass in a good hour. The road +towards the temples here turns off to the right into desolate, +barren mountain valleys, whose death-like stillness was unbroken by +the breathing of an animal, or the song of a bird. This place was +well calculated to raise and excite expectations. + +The temples, twenty-seven in number, are excavated in tall +perpendicular cliffs, which form a semicircle. In some of the +cliffs there are two stories of temples, one over the other; paths +lead to the top, but these are so narrow and broken, that one is +frequently at a loss where to set the foot. Beneath are terrible +chasms, in which a mountain stream loses itself; overhead, the +smooth rocky surface extends several hundred feet in height. The +majority of the temples are quadrangular in form, and the approach +to the interior is through verandahs and handsome gateways, which, +from being supported on columns, appear to bear the weight of the +whole mass of rock. These temples are called "Vihara." In the +larger one I counted twenty-eight, in the smallest eight pillars. +On one, and sometimes on both side-walls, there is a very small dark +cell, in which most probably the priest lived. In the background, +in a large and lofty cell, is the sanctuary. Here are gigantic +figures in every position; some measure more than eighteen feet, and +nearly reach to the roof of the temple, which is about twenty-four +feet high. The walls of the temples and verandahs are full of idols +and statues of good and evil spirits. In one of the temples, a +battle of giants is represented. The figures are above life size, +and the whole of the figures, columns, verandahs and gateways, are +cut out of the solid rock. The enormous number and remarkable +beauty of the sculptures and reliefs on the columns, capitals, +friezes, gateways, and even on the roof of the temples, is indeed +most astonishing; the variety in the designs and devices is +inexhaustible. It appears incredible that human hands should have +been able to execute such masterly and gigantic works. The Brahmins +do, indeed, ascribe their origin to supernatural agencies, and +affirm that the era of their creation cannot be ascertained. + +Remains of paintings are found on the walls, ceiling, and pillars, +the colours of which are brighter and fresher than those of many +modern works of art. + +The second class of temples have an oval form, and have majestic +lofty portals leading immediately into the interior; they are called +chaitya. The largest of these temples has on each side a colonnade +of nineteen pillars--the smallest, one of eight; in these there are +no verandahs, no priest's cells, and no sanctuaries. Instead of the +latter, a high monument stands at the extremity of the temple. Upon +one of these monuments an upright figure of the deity Buddha is +sculptured in a standing position. On the walls of the larger +temple gigantic figures are hewn out of the solid rock, and under +these a sleeping Buddha, twenty-one feet in length. + +After I had wandered about here for some hours, and had seen enough +of each of the temples, I was led back to one of them, and saw there +a small table well covered with eatables and drinkables, inviting me +to a welcome meal. Captain Gill had been so kind as to send after +me a choice tiffen, together with table and chairs, into this +wilderness. Thus refreshed and invigorated, I did not find the +return fatiguing. The house in which Captain Gill lives at Adjunta +is very remarkably situated: a pleasant little garden, with flowers +and shrubs, surrounds the front, which commands a view of a fine +plain, while the back stands upon the edge of a most fearful +precipice, over which the dizzy glance loses itself among steep +crags and terrible gorges and chasms. + +As Captain Gill had learnt that I wished to visit the famous +fortress of Dowlutabad, he told me that no one was admitted without +the permission of the commander of Auranjabad; but, to spare my +going out of my way (as the fortress lies on this side of +Auranjabad), he offered to send a courier there immediately, and +order him to bring the card of admission to me at Elora. The +courier had to travel altogether a distance of 140 miles--70 there +and as many back. I looked upon all these attentions as the more +obliging, as they were shown to me--a German woman, without +distinction or attractions--by English people. + +4th March. At 4 o'clock in the morning, the good captain joined me +at the breakfast table; half an hour later, I was seated in my +waggon and travelling towards the village of Bongeloda, which I +reached the same day. + +5th March. Roja is one of the most ancient towns of India. It has +a gloomy aspect; the houses are one story high, and built of large +square stones, blackened by age; the doors and windows are few in +number and irregularly situated. + +Outside the town lay a handsome bungalow with two rooms; but, as I +was informed that it was occupied by Europeans, I decided upon not +going there, and took up my quarters for the night under the eaves +of a house. + +The country between this and Adjunta is a flat plain; the parched +heaths and poor jungles are interspersed with beautiful plantations. +The land near Pulmary was especially well cultivated. + +6th March. Early in the morning, I mounted a horse for the purpose +of visiting the equally-renowned rock temples of Elora (ten miles +from Roja). But, as it frequently happens in life that the proverb, +"man proposes and God disposes," proves true, such was the case in +the present instance--instead of the temples, I saw a tiger-hunt. + +I had scarcely left the gates of the town behind, when I perceived a +number of Europeans seated upon elephants, coming from the bungalow. +On meeting each other, we pulled up, and commenced a conversation. +The gentlemen were on the road to search for a tiger-lair, of which +they had received intimation, and invited me, if such a sport would +not frighten me too much, to take part in it. I was greatly +delighted to receive the invitation, and was soon seated on one of +the elephants, in a howdah about two feet high, in which there were +already two gentlemen and a native--the latter had been brought to +load the guns. They gave me a large knife to defend myself with, in +case the animal should spring too high and reach the side of the +howdah. + +Thus prepared, we approached the chain of hills, and, after a few +hours, were already pretty near the lair of the tigers, when our +servants cried out quite softly, "Bach, bach!" and pointed with +their fingers to some brushwood. I had scarcely perceived the +flaming eyes which glared out of one of the bushes before shots were +fired. Several balls took effect on the animal, who rushed, +maddened, upon us. He made such tremendous springs, that I thought +every moment he must reach the howdah and select a victim from among +us. The sight was terrible to see, and my apprehensions were +increased by the appearance of another tiger; however, I kept myself +so calm, that none of the gentlemen had any suspicion of what was +going on in my mind. Shot followed shot; the elephants defended +their trunks with great dexterity by throwing them up or drawing +them in. After a sharp contest of half an hour, we were the +victors, and the dead animals were triumphantly stripped of their +beautiful skins. The gentlemen politely offered me one of them as a +present; but I declined accepting it, as I could not postpone my +journey sufficiently long for it to be dried. They complimented me +on my courage, and added, that such sport would be extremely +dangerous if the elephants were not particularly well trained; above +all, they must not be afraid of the tigers, nor even stir from the +spot; for, if they ran away, the hunters would be upset by the +branches of the trees, or be left hanging upon them, when they would +certainly become the victims of the bloodthirsty animals. It was +too late to visit the temples today, and I therefore waited till the +next morning. + +The temples of Elora lie on that kind of table-land which is +peculiar to India. The principal temple, Kylas, is the most +wonderful of all those which are hewn out of the rock. It +surpasses, in magnitude and finish, the best specimens of Indian +architecture; it is, indeed, affirmed to have claims to precedence +over the marvellous buildings of the ancient Egyptians. The Kylas +is of conical form, 120 feet in height and 600 in circumference. +For the construction of this masterwork, a colossal block was +separated from the solid rock by a passage 240 feet long and 100 +broad. The interior of the temple consists of a principal hall (66 +feet long by 100 broad), and several adjoining halls, which are all +furnished with sculptures and gigantic idols; but the real +magnificence consists in the rich and beautiful sculptures on the +exterior, in the tastefully-executed arabesques, and in the fine +pinnacles and niches, which are cut out on the tower. The temple +rests on the backs of numerous elephants and tigers, which lie next +to each other in peaceful attitudes. Before the principal entrance, +to which several flights of steps lead, stand two figures of +elephants above life-size. The whole is, as has been said before, +hewn from a single mass of rock. The cliff from which this immense +block was separated surrounds the temple, on three sides, at a +distance of 100 feet, forming colossal perpendicular walls, in +which, as at Adjunta, enormous colonnades, larger and smaller +temples, from two to three stories high, are excavated. The +principal temple is called Rameswur, and somewhat exceeds in size +the largest vichara at Adjunta; its breadth is ninety-eight feet, it +extends into the rock 102 feet, and the height of the ceiling is +twenty-four feet; it is supported by twenty-two pilasters, and +covered with the most beautiful sculptures, reliefs, and colossal +gods, among which the principal group represents the marriage of the +god Ram and the goddess Seeta. A second vichara, nearly as handsome +as this last, is called Laoka; the principal figure in this is +Shiva. + +Not far distant, a number of similar temples are excavated in +another rock. They are much more simple, with unattractive portals +and plain columns; therefore, not to be compared with those at +Adjunta. This task would have been impossible if the rock had been +granite or a similar primitive foundation; unfortunately, I could +not ascertain what the rock was, I only examined the pieces which +were here and there chipped off, and which were very easily broken. +It is not with the less astonishment that one contemplates these +surprising works, which will always be considered as inimitable +monuments of human ingenuity. + +The temple of Kylas is, unfortunately, somewhat decayed from age and +the destructive action of the weather. It is a sad pity that the +only monument of this kind in the world will, by-and-bye, fall into +ruins. Towards 11 o'clock in the morning I returned to Roja, and +immediately continued my journey to the famous fortress Dowlutabad, +having safely received the admission in Roja. + +The distance was only eight miles; but the roads were execrably bad, +and there was a mountain-pass to cross similar to that near Adjunta. +The fortress, one of the oldest and strongest in India, is +considered as the most remarkable of its kind, not only in the +Deccan but in all India. It presents a most imposing aspect, and is +situated upon a peak of rock 600 feet high, which stands isolated in +a beautiful plain, and appears to have been separated from the +adjoining mountains by some violent natural convulsion. The +circumference of this rock amounts to about a mile. It is cut round +perpendicularly to a height of 130 feet and thirty feet below the +top of the moat by which it is surrounded, which cutting is equally +perpendicular, so that the whole height of the escarpment is 160 +feet, and the rock, consequently, inaccessible. There is no pathway +leading to the fortress, and I was, therefore, extremely curious to +know by what means the summit was reached. In the side of the rock +itself was a very low iron door, which is only visible in time of +peace, as the ditch can be filled a foot above its level when +required. Torches were lighted, and I was carefully conducted +through narrow low passages, which led with numerous windings +upwards through the body of the rock. These passages were closed in +many places by massive iron gates. Some considerable distance above +the precipitous part of the rock, we again emerged into the open +air; narrow paths and steps, protected by strongly-fortified works, +led from this place to the highest point. The latter was somewhat +flattened, (140 feet in diameter), completely undermined, and so +contrived, that it could be heated red-hot. A cannon, twenty-three +feet long, was planted here. + +At the foot of this fortress are scattered numerous ruins, which, I +was told, were the remains of a very important town; nothing is left +of it now except the fortified walls, three or four feet deep, which +must be passed to reach the peak of rock itself. + +In the same plain, but near to the range of mountains, standing on a +separate elevation, is a considerably larger fortress than +Dowlutabad, but of far inferior strength. + +The numerous fortresses, as well as the fortified towns, were, as I +here learned, the remnants of past times, when Hindostan was divided +into a great number of states, continually at war with each other. +The inhabitants of the towns and villages never went out unarmed; +they had spies continually on the watch; and to secure themselves +from sudden attacks, drove their herds inside the walls every night, +and lived in a continual state of siege. In consequence of the +unceasing warfare which prevailed, bands of mounted robbers were +formed, frequently consisting of as many as ten or twelve thousand +men, who too often starved out and overcame the inhabitants of the +smaller towns, and completely destroyed their young crops. These +people were then compelled to enter into a contract with these wild +hordes, and to buy themselves off by a yearly tribute. + +Since the English have conquered India, peace and order have been +everywhere established; the walls decay and are not repaired; the +people indeed frequently wear arms, but more from habit than +necessity. + +The distance from Dowlutabad to Auranjabad was eight miles. I was +already much fatigued, for I had visited the temples, ridden eight +miles over the mountain pass, and mounted to the top of the fortress +during the greatest heat; but I looked forward to the night, which I +preferred passing in a house and a comfortable bed, rather than +under an open verandah; and, seating myself in my waggon, desired +the driver to quicken the pace of his weary oxen as much as +possible. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. CONTINUATION OF JOURNEY AND SOJOURN. + + + +AURANJABAD--PUNA--EAST INDIAN MARRIAGES--THE FOOLISH WAGGONER-- +BOMBAY--THE PARSEES, OR FIRE-WORSHIPPERS--INDIAN BURIAL CEREMONIES-- +THE ISLAND OF ELEPHANTA--THE ISLAND OF SALSETTE. + +On the 7th of March, late in the evening, I reached Auranjabad. +Captain Stewart, who lived outside the town, received me with the +same cordiality as the other residents had done. + +8th March. Captain Stewart and his wife accompanied me this morning +to the town to show me its objects of interest, which consisted of a +monument and a sacred pool. Auranjabad is the capital of the +Deccan, has 60,000 inhabitants, and is partly in ruins. + +The monument, which is immediately outside the town, was built more +than two hundred years since by the Sultan Aurung-zeb-Alemgir, in +memory of his daughter. It by no means deserves to be compared to +the great Tadsch at Agra. It is a mosque, with a lofty arched dome +and four minarets. The building is covered all round--the lower +part of the outside with a coating of white marble five feet high; +the upper portion is cased with fine white cement, which is worked +over with ornamental flowers and arabesques. The entrance doors are +beautifully inlaid with metal, on which flowers and ornamental +designs are engraved in a highly artistic manner. Unfortunately, +the monument is already much decayed; one of the minarets is half +fallen in ruins. In the mosque stands a plain sarcophagus, +surrounded by a marble trellis-work. Both have nothing in common +with the great Tadsch beyond the white marble of which they are +constructed; in richness and artistic execution, they are so much +inferior, that I could not understand how any one could be led to +make so incredible a comparison. + +Near the mosque lies a pretty marble hall, surrounded by a neglected +garden. + +The reigning king would have removed the marble from this monument +for use in some building in which he was to be interred! He +requested permission to do so from the English government. The +answer was to the effect, that he could do so if he wished, but he +should remember, that if he had so little respect for the monuments +of his predecessors, his own might experience a similar fate. This +answer induced him to relinquish his intentions. + +The pool considered sacred by the Mahomedans is a large basin, +constructed of square stones. It is full of large pikes, none of +which, however, are allowed to be taken; in fact, there is an +attendant appointed to supply them with food. The fish are +consequently so tame and familiar, that they will eat turnips, +bread, etc., out of the hand. The rainy season causes the death of +many of them: were it not for this fortunate circumstance, the pool +would before long contain more fish than water. Since the English +have come here, the attendants are said not to be so conscientious, +and very often smuggle fish out of the pool into the English +kitchens, for the sake of a little ready money. + +After spending a very agreeable day, I took a hearty farewell of my +friendly hostess, and continued my journey in a fresh waggon towards +Puna, 136 miles distant. + +9th March. Toka. The roads here began to be better, and there were +bungalows to be had on payment of the ordinary fees. + +10th March. Emanpoor, a small village situated on the summit of a +chain of hills. I found here the handsomest bungalow I had seen +during the whole journey from Benares to Bombay. + +11th March. We passed the whole day in travelling through a barren +country, over naked hills and mountains: the majestic solitary +trees with the wells had already ceased at Auranjabad. + +Towards noon we passed the very flourishing town of Ahmednugger, in +the neighbourhood of which a large English military station is +established. + +12th March. The bungalow at Serur was too near, that at Candapoor +too distant. I therefore decided upon taking up my quarters for the +night under the eaves of a house. + +13th March. In Candapoor there are some handsome Hindoo temples and +several small Mahomedan monuments. Near Lony is a large English +military station. I also found an obelisk erected there in memory +of a battle won by 1,200 English against 20,000 natives. + +14th March. Puna. I had endless trouble here to find Mr. Brown, to +whom I had an introduction from Mr. Hamilton. The Europeans reside +in all parts of the town, for the most part miles apart, and I had +the misfortune to meet with some who were not the most polite, and +did not consider it worth taking the trouble to give me information. +Mr. Brown, on the contrary, received me as kindly as I could desire. + +His first inquiry was whether any accident had happened to me on the +road. He told me that, only a short time since, an officer was +robbed between Suppa and Puna, and as he attempted to defend +himself, was murdered; but he added that such instances were +extraordinarily rare. + +I had arrived about noon. After dinner, Mr. Brown conducted me to +the town, which belongs to the East India Company. It contains +15,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the junction of the rivers +Mulla and Mutta, over both of which handsome bridges are thrown. +The streets are broad and kept clean; the houses, like those in +Udjein, are furnished with false wooden walls. Some were painted +all over, and belonged mostly, as I was informed, to fakirs, with +whom the town swarmed. + +It was the month in which the Hindoos prefer to celebrate their +marriages, and we met in several streets merry processions of that +kind. The bridegroom is enveloped in a purple mantle, his turban +dressed out with gold tinsel, tresses, ribbons, and tassels, so that +from a distance it appears like a rich crown. The depending ribbons +and tassels nearly cover the whole face. He is seated upon a horse; +relatives, friends, and guests surround him on foot. When he +reaches the house of the bride, the doors and windows of which are +securely closed, he seats himself quietly and patiently on the +threshold. The female relations and friends also gather together +here, without conversing much with the bridegroom and the other men. +This scene continues unchanged until nightfall. The bridegroom then +departs with his friends; a closely covered waggon, which has been +held in readiness, is drawn up to the door; the females slip into +the house, bring out the thickly-veiled bride, push her into the +waggon, and follow her with the melodious music of the tam-tam. The +bride does not start until the bridegroom has been gone a quarter of +an hour. The women then accompany her into the bridegroom's house, +which, however, they leave soon afterwards. The music is kept up in +front of the house until late in the night. It is only the +marriages of the lower classes that are celebrated in this manner. + +There is a road leading from Puna to Pannwell, a distance of seventy +miles, and travellers can post all the way. From Pannwell to Bombay +the journey is made by water. I adhered to the cheaper baili, and +Mr. Brown was so obliging as to procure one for me, and to lend me a +servant. + +On the 15th of March I again set out, and on the same day arrived at +Woodgown, a village with one of the dirtiest bungalows in which I +ever made up my bed. + +16th March. Cumpuily. The country between this place and Woodgown +is the most beautiful that I saw in India; the view from a mountain +some miles on this side of Kundalla, was particularly striking. The +spectator stands here in the midst of an extensive mountainous +district: peaks of the most diversified forms are piled in numerous +rows above and alongside of each other, presenting the most +beautiful and variegated outlines. + +There are, also, enormous terraces of rock, flattened cones of +peaks, with battlements and pinnacles, which at first sight might be +taken for ruins and fortresses. In one place the lofty roof of a +majestic building presents itself--in another, a gigantic Gothic +tower rises aloft. The volcanic form of the Tumel mountain is the +most uncommon object which meets the eye. Beyond the mountains +extends a wide plain, at the extremity of which lies the polished +surface of the long wished-for ocean. The greater part of the +mountains is covered with beautiful green woods. I was so much +delighted with the extreme beauty of the prospect, that I +congratulated myself for the first time on the slow pace of my +sleepy oxen. + +The village of Karly lies between Woodgown and Kundalla; it is +famous on account of its temples, which are about two miles distant. +I did not visit them, because I was assured that they were not half +so interesting as those at Adjunta and Elora. + +Kundalla lies upon a mountain plateau. There are several pretty +country-houses here, to which many European families, from the +neighbourhood of Bombay, resort during the hot weather. + +In the Deccan, and the province of Bombay, I found the natives were +less handsome than in Bengal and Hindostan; their features were much +coarser, and not so open and amiable. + +For several days we have again met very large trains of oxen, some +of the drivers of which had their families with them. The females +of these people were very ragged and dirty, and at the same time +loaded with finery. The whole body was covered with coloured +woollen borderings and fringes, the arms with bracelets of metal, +bone, and glass beads; even to the ears large woollen tassels were +hung, in addition to the usual ornaments, and the feet were loaded +with heavy rings and chains. Thus bedecked, the beauties sat on the +backs of the oxen, or walked by the side of the animals. + +17th March. Since the attack of the negroes in Brazil, I had not +been in such a fright as I was today. My driver had appeared to me, +during the whole journey, somewhat odd in his manner, or rather +foolish: sometimes abusing his oxen, sometimes caressing them, +shouting to the passers-by, or turning round and staring at me for +some minutes together. However, as I had a servant with me who +always walked by the baili, I paid little attention to him. But +this morning my servant had gone on, without my consent, to the next +station, and I found myself alone with this foolish driver, and on a +rather secluded road. After some time he got down from the waggon, +and went close behind it. The bailis are only covered over at the +sides with straw matting, and are open at the front and back; I +could therefore observe what he was doing, but I would not turn +round, as I did not wish to make him think that I suspected him. I, +however, moved my head gradually on one side to enable me to watch +his proceedings. He soon came in front again, and, to my terror, +took from the waggon the hatchet which every driver carries with +him, and again retired behind. I now thought nothing less than that +he had evil intentions, but I could not fly from him, and dare not, +of course, evince any fear. I very gently and unobserved drew my +mantle towards me, rolled it together, so that I might, at least, +protect my head with it, in case he made a blow at me with the +hatchet. + +He kept me for some time in this painful state of suspense, then +seated himself on his place and stared at me, got down again, and +repeated the same proceedings several times. It was not until after +a long hour that he laid the hatchet on one side, remained sitting +on the waggon, and contented himself with gaping vacantly at me +every now and then. At the end of a second hour we reached the +station where my servant was, and I did not allow him to leave my +side again. + +The villages through which we passed today were of the most wretched +description; the walls of the huts were constructed of rushes, or +reeds, covered with palm leaves; some had no front wall. + +These villages are chiefly inhabited by Mahrattas, a race which +were, at one period, rather powerful in India, and indeed in the +whole peninsula. They were, however, expelled from Hindostan by the +Mongols, in the eighteenth century, and fled into the mountains +which extend from Surata to Goa. During the present century, the +majority of these people were compelled to place themselves under +the protection of the English. The only Mahratta prince who still +maintains, in any degree, his independence, is the Scindiah; the +others receive pensions. + +The Mahrattas are adherent to the religion of Brahma. They are +powerfully built; the colour of their skin varies from dirty black +to clear brown; their features are repulsive and ill-formed. They +are inured to all manner of hardships, live chiefly upon rice and +water, and their disposition is represented as being morose, +revengeful, and savage. They excite themselves to fighting by means +of opium, or Indian hemp, which they smoke like tobacco. + +In the afternoon, I reached the little town of Pannwell. Travellers +embark, towards the evening, in boats, and proceed down the river +Pannwell to the sea, reaching Bombay about morning. + +I had safely completed the long and tedious journey from Delhi to +Pannwell in seven weeks. For having accomplished it I was +especially indebted to the English officials, who afforded me both +advice and assistance; their humanity, their cordial friendliness I +shall ever remember. I again offer them my most sincere and warmest +thanks; and the greatest compliment which I can pay them is the wish +that my own countrymen, the Austrian consuls and ambassadors, +resembled them! + +At Bombay I stayed at the country-house of the Hamburgh consul, Herr +Wattenbach, intending only to draw upon his hospitality for a few +days, and to leave as soon as possible, in order to take advantage +of the monsoon {225} in my passage through the Arabian and Persian +seas. Days, however, grew into weeks, for the favourable time was +already past, and the opportunity of meeting with ship conveyance +was there very rare. + +Herr Wattenbach made my stay in Bombay very agreeable; he showed me +everything worth seeing, and accompanied me in excursions to +Elephanta and Salsette. + +Bombay lies on a small but remarkably pretty island, which is +separated from the mainland by a very narrow arm of the sea; its +extent is about five square miles, and it is inhabited by 250,000 +souls. Bombay is the principal town of Western India, and as its +harbour is the best and safest on the whole west coast, it is the +chief seat of commerce for the produce and manufactures of India, +the Malay country, Persia, Arabia, and Abyssinia. In a commercial +respect, it stands only second to Calcutta. In Bombay, every +language of the civilized world is to be heard, and the costumes and +habits of every nation are to be seen. The finest view of the whole +island and town of Bombay, as well as the neighbouring islands of +Salsette, Elephanta, Kolabeh, Caranjah, and the mainland, is to be +had from the Malabar point. The country, at some distance from the +town, consists chiefly of low hills, which are covered with +beautiful woods of cocoa-nut and date-trees; in the plain +surrounding the town there are also many such groves divided into +gardens by walls. The natives are very fond of building their +dwellings under the dark shadows of these trees; while, on the +contrary, the Europeans seek for as much light and air as possible. +The country-houses of the latter are handsome and convenient, but +not to be compared with those of Calcutta, either in size or +magnificence. The town lies on a level, along the sea-shore. + +The active life of the rich inland and European commercial +population must be sought for in the fortified parts of the town, +which constitute a large quadrangle. Here is to be found +merchandise from all parts of the world. The streets are handsome, +the large square called The Green especially so. The buildings most +remarkable for their architectural beauty are the Town-hall, whose +saloon has no equal, the English Church, the Governor's Palace, and +the Mint. + +The Open Town and the Black Town {226} adjoin the fortified +portions, and are considerably larger. In the Open Town, the +streets are very regular and broad, more so than any other Indian +city that I saw; they are also carefully watered. I observed many +houses decorated with artistically-carved wooden pillars, capitals, +and galleries. The bazaar is an object of great interest; not, as +many travellers affirm, on account of the richness of the +merchandise, of which there is not more to be seen than in other +bazaars--in fact, there is not even any of the beautiful wood mosaic +work of which Bombay produces the finest--but from the diversity of +people, which is greater here than anywhere else. Three parts, +indeed, are Hindoos, and the fourth Mahomedans, Persians, Fire- +worshippers, Mahrattas, Jews, Arabs, Bedouins, Negroes, descendants +of Portuguese, several hundred Europeans, and even some Chinese and +Hottentots. It requires a long time to be able to distinguish the +people of the different nations by their dress and the formation of +their faces. + +The most wealthy among people owning property here are the Fire- +worshippers, called also Gebers, or Parsees. They were expelled +from Persia about 1,200 years since, and settled down along the west +coast of India. As they are remarkably industrious and hard- +working, very well disposed and benevolent, there are no poor, no +beggars to be found among them--all appear to be prosperous. The +handsome houses in which the Europeans reside mostly belong to them; +they are the largest owners of land, ride out in the most beautiful +carriages, and are surrounded by innumerable servants. One of the +richest of them--Jamsetize-Jeejeebhoy--built, at his own expense, a +handsome hospital in the Gothic style, and provides European medical +men and receives the sick of every religious denomination. He was +knighted by the English government, and is certainly the first +Hindoo who could congratulate himself on such a distinction. + +While speaking of the Fire-worshippers, I will relate all that I +myself saw of them, as well as what I learnt from Manuckjee- +Cursetjee, one of the most cultivated and distinguished among them. + +The Fire-worshippers believe in one Supreme Being. They pay the +greatest reverence to the four elements, and especially to the +element of fire, and to the sun, because they look upon them as +emblems of the Supreme Being. Every morning they watch for the +rising sun, and hasten out of their houses, and even outside of the +town, to greet it immediately with prayers. Besides the elements, +the cow is considered sacred by them. + +Soon after my arrival, I went one morning upon the esplanade of the +town for the purpose of seeing the great number of Parsees {227} +who, as I had read, assembled themselves there waiting for the first +rays of the sun, on the appearance of which, as if at a given +signal, they throw themselves on the ground, and raise a loud cry of +joy. I, however, merely saw several Parsees, not in groups, but +standing separately here and there, reading silently from a book, or +murmuring a prayer to themselves. These did not even come at the +same time, for many arrived as late as 9 o'clock. + +It was precisely the same with the corpses which are stated to be +exposed upon the roofs for the birds of prey to feed upon. I saw +not a single one. In Calcutta, Mr. V---, who had but recently come +from Bombay, assured me that he had himself seen many. I cannot +believe that the English government would permit such a barbarous +proceeding, and one so prejudicial to health. But I must resume my +narrative. My first question, after I had been introduced to +Manuckjee, was as to the manner in which the Parsees bury their +dead. He conducted me to a hill outside the town, and pointed out a +wall, four-and-twenty feet high, enclosing a round space of about +sixty feet in diameter. He told me that within this wall there was +a bier, with three partitions, built up, and near to it a large pit +excavated. The bodies of the deceased are placed upon the bier, the +men on the first, the women on the second, and children on the third +compartment, and are fastened down with iron bands; and, according +to the commands of their religion, are left exposed to the action of +the element of air. The birds of prey, which always gather in large +swarms round such places, fall upon the bodies ravenously, and in a +few minutes devour the flesh and skin; the bones are gathered up and +thrown into the cave. When this becomes full, the place is +abandoned and another erected. + +Many wealthy people have private burial-places, over which they have +fine wire gauze stretched, so that the deceased members of their +family may not be stripped of their flesh by birds of prey. + +No one is allowed to enter the burial-ground except the priests, who +carry the bodies; even the door is rapidly closed, for only one +glance into it would be a sin. The priests, or rather bearers, are +considered so impure that they are excluded from all other society, +and form a separate caste. Whoever has the misfortune to brush +against one of these men, must instantly throw off his clothes and +bathe. + +The Parsees are not less exclusive with respect to their temples; no +one of any other belief is allowed to enter them, or even to look +in. The temples which I saw here, of course only from the outside, +are very small, extremely plain, and destitute of the slightest +peculiarity of architecture; the round entrance-hall surrounds a +kind of fore-court, enclosed by a wall. I was only allowed to go as +far as the entrance of the wall leading to the fore-court. The +handsomest temple in Bombay {228} is a small unimportant building, +and I must again contradict those descriptions which make so much of +the beautiful temples of the Fire-worshippers. + +As I was informed by Manuckjee, the fire burns in a kind of iron +vase, in a completely empty, unornamented temple or apartment. The +Parsees affirm that the fire which burns in the principal temple, +and at which all the others are lighted, originates from the fire +which their prophet, Zoroaster, lighted in Persia 4,000 years since. +When they were driven out of Persia they took it with them. This +fire is not fed with ordinary wood alone; more costly kinds, such as +sandal, rose-wood, and such like, are mixed with it. + +The priests are called magi, and in each temple there is a +considerable number of them. They are distinguished, as regards +their dress, from the other Parsees, only by a white turban. They +are allowed to marry. + +The women visit the temple generally at different hours from the +men. They are not forbidden to go there at the same time as the +latter; but they never do so, and, indeed, very seldom go at all. A +pious Parsee is supposed to pray daily four times, and each time for +an hour; for this purpose, however, it is not necessary that he +should go to the temple; he fixes his eyes upon fire, earth, or +water, or stares into the open air. Whoever finds four hours of +prayer daily too much, ingratiates himself with the priests, who are +humane and considerate, like the priests of other religions, and +willingly release applicants from their cares for the consideration +of a moderate gift. + +The Parsees prefer offering up their prayers in the morning in the +presence of the sun, which they honour the most, as the greatest and +most sacred fire. The worship of fire is carried to such an extent +by them that they do not pursue any trades which require the use of +fire, neither will they fire a gun, or extinguish a light. They let +their kitchen-fires burn out. Many travellers even affirm that they +will not assist in extinguishing a conflagration; but this is not +the case. I was assured that on such an occasion, some years since, +many Parsees had been seen giving their help to put the fire out. + +Manuckjee was so obliging as to invite me to his house, that I might +become acquainted in some degree with the mode of life of Parsee +families; he also conducted me to the houses of several of his +friends. + +I found the rooms furnished in the European manner, with chairs, +tables, sofas, ottomans, pictures, mirrors, etc. The dress of the +women was little different from that of the more wealthy Hindoos; it +was more decorous, as it was not made of transparent muslin, but of +silk; and they had, moreover, trousers. The silk was richly +embroidered with gold, which luxury is extended to three-year old +children. The younger ones, and even the newly-born infants, are +wrapped in plain silk stuff. The children wore little caps, worked +with gold and silver. The Parsee women consider gold ornaments, +pearl and precious stones as necessary a part of their dress as the +Hindoos; even in the house they wear a great quantity, but when +visiting, or on the occasion of any festival, the jewellery of a +wealthy Parsee woman is said to exceed in value 100,000 rupees +(10,000 pounds). Children of only seven or eight months old, wear +finger-rings and bracelets of precious stones or pearls. + +The dress of the men consists of wide trousers and long kaftans. +The shirts and trousers are chiefly made of white silk, the jacket +of white muslin. The turban differs greatly from that of the +Mahomedans; it is a cap of pasteboard, covered with coloured stuff +or waxed cloth, ten or twelve inches high. + +Both men and women wear round their waists, over the shirt, a girdle +passing twice round, which they take off during prayers and hold in +their hands; with this exception, they are never seen without it. +The law is so strict with regard to the point, that whoever does not +wear the girdle is driven out of society. No agreement or contract +is valid if the girdle is not worn when it is made. The children +begin to wear it when they reach their ninth year. Before this +ceremony, they do not belong to the community; they may even eat of +food prepared by Christians, and the girls can accompany their +fathers in a public place. The girdle changes all; the son eats at +his father's table, the girls remain at home, etc. + +A second religious ordinance relates to the shirt; this must be cut +of a certain length and breadth, and consist of nine seams, which +are folded over each other on the breast in a peculiar manner. + +A Parsee is allowed to have only one wife. If the wife has no +children, or only girls, during a period of nine years, he can, if +she consents, be divorced from her, and marry another; he must, +however, still provide for her. She can also marry again. +According to the religious belief of the Parsee, he is certain to +enjoy perfect happiness in a future state of existence if he has a +wife and a son in this life. + +The Parsees are not divided into castes. In the course of time the +Parsees have acquired many of the customs of the Hindoos. For +example, the women are not allowed to show themselves in public +places; in the house they are separated from the men, take their +meals alone, and are, upon the whole, considered more as mere +property. The girls are promised when children, and betrothed to +the man when in their fourteenth year; if, however, the bridegroom +dies, the parents can seek for another. It is considered by the +Parsees to be a disgrace if the father does not find a husband for +his daughter. + +The Parsee women, however, enjoy far more freedom in their houses +than the unfortunate Hindoos: they are allowed to sit even at the +front windows, and sometimes be present when their husbands receive +visits from their male friends, and on both occasions without being +veiled. + +The Parsees may be easily distinguished from all other Asiatic +people by their features, and especially by the lighter colour of +their skin. Their features are rather regular, but somewhat sharp, +and the cheekbones are broad. I did not think them so handsome as +the Mahomedans and Hindoos. + +Manuckjee is a great exception to his country people. He is, +perhaps, the first who has visited Paris, London, and a considerable +part of Italy. He was so well pleased with European manners and +customs, that on his return he endeavoured to introduce several +reforms among the people of his sect. Unfortunately, he was +unsuccessful. He was decried as a man who did not know what he +would be doing, and many withdrew from him their friendship and +respect in consequence. + +He allows his family to go about the house with freedom; but even +there he cannot depart much from established custom, as he does not +wish to separate entirely from his sect. His daughters are educated +in the European method; the eldest plays a little on the piano, +embroiders, and sews. She wrote a small paragraph in English in my +album very well. Her father did not engage her as a child, but +wished that her own inclinations might correspond with his selection +of a husband. I was told that she would probably not meet with one, +because she is educated too much in the European style; she is +already fourteen years of age, and her father has not yet provided +her with a bridegroom. + +When I first visited this house, the mother and daughters were +seated in a drawing-room, engaged with needlework. I remained +during their meal-time, a liberty which an orthodox Parsee would not +have afforded to me; I was not, however, allowed to join them at +table. It was first laid for me, and I ate alone. Several dishes +were placed before me, which, with slight deviations, were prepared +in the European manner. Everyone, with the exception of the master +of the house, watched with surprise the way in which I used a knife +and fork; even the servants stared at this, to them, singular +spectacle. When I had sufficiently appeased my appetite in this +public manner, the table was as carefully brushed as if I had been +infected with the plague. Flat cakes of bread were then brought and +laid upon the uncovered table, instead of plates, and six or seven +of the same dishes which had been served to me. The members of the +family each washed their hands and faces, and the father said a +short grace. All except the youngest child, who was only six years +of age, sat at the table, and reached with their right hands into +the different dishes. They tore the flesh from the bones, separated +the fish into pieces, and then dipped the pieces into the various +soups and sauces, and threw them with such dexterity into the mouth, +that they did not touch their lips with their fingers. Whoever +accidentally does, must immediately get up and wash his hand again, +or else place before him the dish into which he has put his unwashed +hand, and not touch any other one. The left hand is not used during +the whole meal time. + +This mode of eating appears, indeed, very uninviting; but it is, in +fact, not at all so; the hand is washed, and does not touch anything +but the food. It is the same in drinking; the vessel is not put to +the lips, but the liquid is very cleverly poured into the open +mouth. Before the children have acquired this dexterity in eating +and drinking, they are not permitted, even when they wear the +girdle, to come to the table of the adults. + +The most common drink in Bombay is called sud or toddy, a kind of +light spirituous beverage which is made from the cocoa and date- +palm. The taxes upon these trees are very high; the latter are, as +in Egypt, numbered and separately assessed. A tree which is only +cultivated for fruit, pays from a quarter to half a rupee (6d. to +1s.); those from which toddy is extracted, from three-quarters to +one rupee each. The people here do not climb the palm-trees by +means of rope-ladders, but they cut notches in the tree, in which +they set their feet. + +During my stay here, an old Hindoo woman died near to Herr +Wattenbach's house, which circumstance gave me an opportunity of +witnessing an Indian funeral. As soon as she began to show signs of +death, the women about her every now and then set up a horrible +howling, which they continued at short intervals after her decease. +Presently, small processions of six or eight women approached, who +also commenced howling as soon as they discovered the house of the +mourners. These women all entered the house. The men, of whom +there were a great number present, seated themselves quietly in +front of it. At the expiration of some hours, the dead body was +enveloped in a white shroud, laid upon an open bier, and carried by +the men to the place where it was to be burnt. One of them carried +a vessel with charcoal and a piece of lighted wood, for the purpose +of igniting the wood with the fire of the house. + +The women remained behind, and collected in front of the house in a +small circle, in the middle of which was placed a woman who was +hired to assist in the lamentations. She commenced a wailing song +of several stanzas, at the end of each of which the whole joined in +chorus; they kept time also by beating their breasts with the right +hand and bowing their heads to the ground. They executed this +movement as quickly and regularly as if they had been dolls worked +by a wire. + +After this had been carried on for a quarter of an hour, there was a +short pause, during which the women struck their breasts with both +their fists so violently, that the blows could be heard at some +considerable distance. After each blow, they stretched their hands +up high and bowed their heads very low, all with great regularity +and rapidity. This proceeding seemed even more comical than the +first. After much exertion, they seated themselves round in a ring, +drank toddy, and smoked tobacco. + +On the following morning, both men and women repeated their visit. +The former, however, did not enter the house; they lit a fire and +prepared a plain meal. As often as a party of women came, one of +the men went to the house-door and announced them, upon which the +principal mourner came out of the house to receive them. She threw +herself with such violence on the ground before them, that I thought +she would not be able to rise up again; the women struck themselves +with their fists once on their breasts, and then drew their hands to +their heads. The widow raised herself in the meantime, threw +herself impetuously round the necks of each of the women, throwing, +at the same time, her head-dress over the head of her consoler, and +both endeavoured to out-do each other in howling. All these +evolutions were very rapidly performed; a dozen embraces were gone +through in a moment. After the reception, they went into the house +and continued howling at intervals. It was not until sun-set that +all was still, and a supper concluded the whole affair. The women +ate in the house--the men in the open air. + +Funerals and marriages always cost the Hindoos a great deal. The +one here described was that of a woman of the poorer class. +Nevertheless, it is considered essential that there should be no +want of toddy during two days, or of provisions for meals, at which +there are an abundance of guests. In addition to this, there is the +wood, which also costs a considerable sum, even when it is only +common wood. The rich, who use on such occasions the most costly +wood, frequently pay more than a thousand rupees (100 pounds). + +I once met the funeral procession of a Hindoo child. It lay upon a +cushion, covered with a white sheet, and was strewed with fresh and +beautiful flowers. A man carried it on both his arms as gently and +carefully as if it was sleeping. In this instance, also, there were +only men present. + +The Hindoos have no particular festival-day in the week, but +festivals at certain times, which last for some days. I was present +at one of these during my stay, Warusche-Parupu, the New-Year's +festival, which took place on the 11th of April. It was a kind of +fast-night celebration. The principal amusement consisted in +throwing yellow, brown, and red colours over each other, and +painting themselves with the same on their cheeks and foreheads. +The noisy tam-tam, or a couple of violins, headed the procession, +and greater or less followed, who, laughing and singing, danced from +house to house, or from one place to another. Several, indeed, on +this occasion, found the toddy rather too exciting, but not so much +as to lose their consciousness or to exceed the bounds of decorum. +The women do not take part in these public processions; but, in the +evening, both sexes assemble in the houses, where the festivities +are said not to be carried on in the most decorous manner. + +Martyrs' festivals are no longer celebrated with full splendour. I +did not see any; their time is past. I was, however, so fortunate +as to see a martyr, to whom great numbers of people flocked. This +holy man had, for three-and-twenty years, held one of his arms +raised up with the hand turned back so far that a flower-pot could +stand upon it. The three-and-twenty years were passed, and the +flower-pot was removed; but neither hand nor arm were to be brought +into any other position, for the muscles had contracted, the arm was +quite withered, and presented a most repulsive appearance. + +The Island of Elephanta is about six or eight miles distant from +Bombay. Herr Wattenbach was so kind as to take me there one day. I +saw some rather high mountains, which, however, we did not ascend; +we visited only the temples, which are very near to the landing- +place. + +The principal temple resembles the larger viharas at Adjunta, with +the single exception, that it is separated on both sides from the +solid rock, and is connected with it only above, below, and at the +back. In the sanctuary stands a gigantic three-headed bust. Some +believe that it represents the Hindoo Trinity; one of the heads is +full-faced, the two others in profile, one right, the other left. +The bust, including the head-dress, measures certainly as much as +eight feet. On the walls and in the niches, there are a number of +giant statues and figures; in fact, whole scenes of the Hindoo +mythology. The female figures are remarkable; they all have the +left hip turned out, the right turned inwards. The temple appears +to be devoted to the god Shiva. + +In the neighbourhood of the large temple stands a smaller one, whose +walls are also covered with deities. Both temples were much injured +by the Portuguese, who, when they conquered the island, in their +noble religious zeal planted cannon before them, in order to destroy +the shocking Pagan temples; in which attempt they succeeded much +better than in the conversion of the Pagans. Several columns are +quite in ruins; nearly all are more or less damaged, and the ground +is covered with fragments. None of either the gods or their +attendants escaped uninjured. + +There is a most enchanting view across the sea of the extensive +town, and the delightful hills surrounding it, from the facade of +the large temple. We passed a whole day here very agreeably. +During the hot hours of noon, we amused ourselves by reading in the +cool shadows of the temple. Herr Wattenbach had sent on several +servants previously; among others, the cook, together with tables, +chairs, provisions, books, and newspapers. In my opinion, this was +rather superfluous; but what would my countrywomen have said could +they have seen the English family which we accidentally met with +here; they carried several couches, easy chairs, enormous foot- +stools, a tent, etc., with them. That is what I call a simple +country party! + +Salsetta (also called Tiger Island) is united to Bombay by means of +a short artificial dam. The distance from the fort to the village, +behind which the temples are situated, is eighteen miles, which we +travelled, with relays of horses, in three hours. The roads were +excellent, the carriage rolled along as if on a floor. + +The natural beauty of this island far exceeds that of Bombay. Not +mere rows of hills, but magnificent mountain chains here raise their +heads, covered even to their summits with thick woods, from which +bare cliffs here and there project; the valleys are planted with +rich fields of corn, and slender green palms. + +The island does not appear to be densely populated. I saw only a +few villages and a single small town inhabited by Mahrattas, whose +appearance is as needy and dirty as those near Kundalla. + +From the village where we left the carriage we had still three miles +to go to the temples. + +The principal temple alone is in the style of a chaitza; but it is +surrounded by an uncommonly high porch, at both extremities of which +idols one-and-twenty feet high stand in niches. Adjoining to the +right is a second temple, which contains several priests' cells, +allegorical figures of deities, and reliefs. Besides these two, +there are innumerable other smaller ones in the rocks, which extend +on both sides from the principal temple; I was told there were more +than a hundred. They are all viharas with the exception of the +principal temple; the greater number, however, are scarcely larger +than ordinary small chambers, and are destitute of any peculiarity. + +The rock temples of Elephanta and Salsetta rank, in respect to +magnitude, grandeur, and art, far below those of Adjunta and Elora, +and are of interest only to those who have not seen the latter. + +It is said that the temples at Salsetta are not much visited, +because there is considerable danger attending it; the country is +represented to be full of tigers, and so many wild bees are said to +swarm round the temples that it is impossible to enter them; and +moreover the robbers, which are known by the name of bheels, live +all round here. We fortunately met with none of these misfortunes. +Later, indeed, I wandered about here alone. I was not satisfied +with a single sight, and left my friends privately while they were +taking their noon rest, and clambered from rock to rock as far as +the most remote temple. In one I found the skin and horns of a goat +that had been devoured, which sight somewhat frightened me; but +trusting to the unsociability of the tiger, who will rather fly from +a man in broad day than seek him out, I continued my ramble. We +had, as I have said, no danger to resist; it was different with two +gentlemen who, some days later, nearly fell victims, not indeed to +wild beasts, but to wild bees. One of them knocked upon an opening +in the side of the rock, when an immense swarm of bees rushed out +upon them, and it was only by the greatest exertion that they +escaped, miserably stung on the head, face, and hands. This +occurrence was published in the newspapers as a warning for others. + +The climate of Bombay is healthier than that of Calcutta; even the +heat is more tolerable on account of the continual sea-breezes, +although Bombay lies five degrees further south. The mosquitoes +here, as in all hot countries, are very tormenting. A centipede +slipped into my bed one evening, but I fortunately discovered it in +time. + +I had already decided upon taking my passage in an Arabian boat, +which was to leave for Bassora on the 2nd of April, when Herr +Wattenbach brought the news that on the 10th a small steamer would +make its first voyage to Bassora. This afforded me great pleasure-- +I did not suspect that it would happen with a steamer as with a +sailing vessel, whose departure is postponed from day to day; +nevertheless, we did not leave the harbour of Bombay until the 23rd +of April. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. FROM BOMBAY TO BAGHDAD. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY--SMALL-POX--MUSCAT--BANDR-ABAS--THE PERSIANS-- +THE KISHMA STRAITS--BUSCHIR--ENTRANCE INTO THE SCHATEL-ARAB-- +BASSORA--ENTRANCE INTO THE TIGRIS--BEDOUIN TRIBES--CTESIPHON AND +SELEUCIA--ARRIVAL AT BAGHDAD. + +The steamer "Sir Charles Forbes" (forty horse-power, Captain +Lichfield) had only two cabins, a small and a large one. The former +had already been engaged for some time by an Englishman, Mr. Ross; +the latter was bespoken by some rich Persians for their wives and +children. I was, therefore, obliged to content myself with a place +upon deck; however, I took my meals at the captain's table, who +showed me the most extreme attention and kindness during the whole +voyage. + +The little vessel was, in the fullest sense of the word, overloaded +with people; the crew alone numbered forty-five; in addition to that +there were 124 passengers, chiefly Persians, Mahomedans, and Arabs. +Mr. Ross and myself were the only Europeans. When this crowd of +persons were collected, there was not the smallest clear space on +the deck; to get from one place to another it was necessary to climb +over innumerable chests and boxes, and at the same time to use great +caution not to tread upon the heads or feet of the people. + +In such critical circumstances I looked about immediately to see +where I could possibly secure a good place. I found what I sought, +and was the most fortunate of all the passengers, more so than even +Mr. Ross, who could not sleep any night in his cabin on account of +the heat and insects. My eye fell upon the under part of the +captain's dinner-table, which was fixed upon the stern deck; I took +possession of this place, threw my mantle round me, so that I had a +pretty secure position, and no cause to fear that I should have my +hands, feet, or indeed my head trodden upon. + +I was somewhat unwell when I left Bombay, and on the second day of +the voyage a slight attack of bilious fever came on. I had to +contend with this for five days. I crept painfully from my asylum +at meal times to make way for the feet of the people at table. I +did not take any medicine (I carried none with me), but trusted to +Providence and my good constitution. + +A much more dangerous malady than mine was discovered on board on +the third day of the voyage. The small-pox was in the large cabin. +Eighteen women and seven children were crammed in there. They had +much less room than the negroes in a slave-ship; the air was in the +highest degree infected, and they were not allowed to go on the +deck, filled as it was with men; even we deck passengers were in +great anxiety lest the bad air might spread itself over the whole +ship through the opened windows. The disease had already broken out +on the children before they were brought on board; but no one could +suspect it, as the women came late at night, thickly veiled, and +enveloped in large mantles, under which they carried the children. +It was only on the third day, when one of the children died, that we +discovered our danger. + +The child was wrapped in a white cloth, fastened upon a plank, which +was weighted by some pieces of coal or stone, and lowered into the +sea. At the moment that it touched the water, the waves closed over +it, and it was lost to our sight. + +I do not know whether a relation was present at this sad event; I +saw no tears flow. The poor mother might, indeed, have sorrowed, +but she dare not accompany her child; custom forbade it. + +Two more deaths occurred, the other invalids recovered, and the +contagion happily did not spread any further. + +30th April. Today we approached very near to the Arabian coast, +where we saw a chain of mountains which were barren and by no means +attractive. On the following morning (1st of May) small forts and +watch-towers made their appearance, here and there, upon the peaks +of beautiful groups of rock, and presently, also, a large one was +perceptible upon an extensive mountain at the entrance of a creek. + +We came to anchor off the town of Muscat, which lies at the +extremity of the creek. This town, which is subject to an Arabian +prince, is very strongly fortified, and surrounded by several ranges +of extraordinarily formed rocks, all of which are also occupied by +forts and towers. The largest of these excites a sad reminiscence: +it was formerly a cloister of Portuguese monks, and was attacked by +the Arabs one night, who murdered the whole of its inmates. This +occurrence took place about two centuries since. + +The houses of the town are built of stone, with small windows and +terraced roofs. Two houses, distinguished from the others only by +their larger dimensions, are the palaces of the mother of the +reigning prince, and of the sheikh (governor). Some of the streets +are so narrow that two persons can scarcely walk together. The +bazaar, according to the Turkish custom, consists of covered +passages, under which the merchants sit cross-legged before their +miserable stalls. + +In the rocky valley in which Muscat lies the heat is very oppressive +(124 degrees Fah. in the sun), and the sunlight is very injurious to +the eyes, as it is not in the slightest degree softened by any +vegetation. Far and wide there are no trees, no shrubs or grass to +be seen. Every one who is in any way engaged here, go as soon as +their business is finished to their country-houses situated by the +open sea. There are no Europeans here; the climate is considered +fatal to them. + +At the back of the town lies a long rocky valley, in which is a +village containing several burial-places, and, wonderful to say, a +little garden with six palms, a fig, and a pomegranate-tree. The +village is larger and more populous than the town; containing 6,000 +inhabitants, while the latter has only 4,000. It is impossible to +form any conception of the poverty, filth, and stench in this +village; the huts stand nearly one over the other, are very small, +and built only of reeds and palm-leaves; every kind of refuse was +thrown before the doors. It requires considerable self-denial to +pass through such a place, and I wonder that plague, or some other +contagion, does not continually rage there. Diseases of the eyes +and blindness are, however, very frequent. + +From this valley I passed into a second, which contains the greatest +curiosity of Muscat, a rather extensive garden, which, with its +date-palms, flowers, vegetables, and plantations, constitutes a true +picture of an oasis in the desert. The vegetation is only kept up, +for the most part, by continual watering. The garden belongs to the +Arabian prince. My guide seemed to be very proud of this wonderful +garden, and asked me whether there were such beautiful gardens in my +country! + +The women in Muscat wear a kind of mask of blue stuff over the face, +fastened upon springs or wires, which project some distance beyond +the face; a hole is cut in the mask between the forehead and nose, +which allows something more than the eyes to be seen. These masks +are worn by the women only when they are at some distance from home; +in and near their houses they are not used. All the women that I +saw were very ugly; the men, also, had not the fine, proud features +which are so frequently met with among the Arabians. Great numbers +of negroes are employed here as slaves. + +I made this excursion at the time of the greatest heat (124 degrees +Fah. in the sun), and rather weakened by my illness, but did not +experience the slightest ill consequences. I had been repeatedly +warned that in warm countries the heat of the sun was very injurious +to Europeans who were not accustomed to it, and frequently caused +fever and sometimes even sun-stroke. If I had attended to every +advice, I should not have seen much. I did not allow myself to be +led astray--went out in all weathers, and always saw more than my +companions in travel. + +On the 2nd of May we again set sail, and on the 3rd of May entered +the Persian Sea, and passed very near to the island of Ormus. The +mountains there are remarkable for a variegated play of colours; +many spots shine as if they were covered with snow. They contain +large quantities of salt, and numbers of caravans come annually from +Persia and Arabia to procure it. In the evening we reached the +small Persian town of Bandr-Abas, off which we anchored. + +May 4th. The town is situated on low hills of sand and rocks, which +are separated from higher mountains by a small plain. Here also the +whole country is barren and wild; solitary groups of palms are found +only in the plains. + +I looked wistfully towards the land,--I would gladly have visited +Persia. The captain, however, advised me not to do so in the dress +I wore; because, as he informed me, the Persians were not so good- +natured as the Hindoos, and the appearance of a European woman in +this remote district was too uncommon an event; I might probably be +greeted with a shower of stones. + +Fortunately there was a young man on board who was half English and +half Persian (his father, an Englishman, had married an Armenian +from Teheran), and spoke both languages equally well. I asked him +to take me on shore, which he very readily did. He conducted me to +the bazaar, and through several streets. The people indeed flocked +from all sides and gazed at me, but did not offer me the slightest +annoyance. + +The houses here are small, and built in the Oriental style, with few +windows, and terraced roofs. The streets are narrow, dirty, and +seemingly uninhabited; the bazaar only appeared busy. The bakers +here prepare their bread in the most simple manner, and, indeed, +immediately in the presence of their customers: they knead some +meal with water into a dough, in a wooden dish, separate this into +small pieces, which they squeeze and draw out with their hands, +until they are formed into large thin flakes, which are smeared over +with salt water, and stuck into the inner side of a round tube. +These tubes are made of clay, are about eighteen inches in diameter, +and twenty-two in length; they are sunk one half in the ground, and +furnished with an air-draft below. Wood-charcoal is burnt inside +the tube at the bottom. The cakes are baked on both sides at once; +at the back by the red-hot tube, and in front by the charcoal fire. +I had half-a-dozen of such cakes baked--when eaten warm, they are +very good. + +It is easy to distinguish the Persians from the Arabs, of whom there +are many here. The former are larger, and more strongly built; +their skin is whiter, their features coarse and powerful, and their +general appearance rude and wild. Their dress resembles that of the +Mahomedans. Many wear turbans, others a conical cap of black +Astrachan, from a foot to one and a half high. + +I was told of so great an act of gratitude of the young man, Mr. +William Hebworth, who accompanied me to Bandr-Abas, that I cannot +omit to mention it. At the age of sixteen he went from Persia to +Bombay, where he met with the kindest reception in the house of a +friend of his father's, by whom he was assisted in every way, and +even obtained an appointment through his interest. One day his +patron, who was married, and the father of four children, had the +misfortune to be thrown from his horse, and died from the effects of +the fall. Mr. Hebworth made the truly noble resolve of marrying the +widow, who was much older than himself, and, instead of property, +possessed only her four children, that he might in this way pay the +debt of gratitude which he owed to his deceased benefactor. + +In Bandr-Abas we hired a pilot to take us through the Straits of +Kishma. About noon we sailed. + +The passage through these straits is without danger for steamers, +but is avoided by sailing vessels, as the space between the island +Kishma and the mainland is in parts very narrow, and the ships might +be driven on to the shore by contrary winds. + +The inland forms an extended plain, and is partially covered with +thin underwood. Great numbers of people come from the neighbouring +mainland to fetch wood from here. + +The captain had spoken very highly of the remarkable beauty of this +voyage, the luxuriance of the island, the spots where the sea was so +narrow that the tops of the palms growing on the island and mainland +touched each other, etc. Since the last voyage of the good captain, +a very unfrequent phenomenon would seem to have taken place--the +lofty slender palms were transformed into miserable underwood, and, +at the narrowest point, the mainland was at least half a mile from +the island. Strange to say, Mr. Ross afterwards gave the same +description of the place; he believed the captain in preference to +his own eyes. + +At one of the most considerable contractions stands the handsome +fort Luft. Fifteen years since the principal stronghold of the +Persian pirates was in this neighbourhood. A severe battle was +fought between them and the English, near Luft, in which upwards of +800 were killed, many taken prisoners, and the whole gang broken up. +Since that event, perfect security has been restored. + +5th May. We left the straits, and three days later came to anchor +off Buschir. + +There are considerable quantities of sea-weeds and molluscae in the +Persian Gulf; the latter had many fibres, were of a milk-white +colour, and resembled a forest agaric in form; others had a +glistening rose colour with small yellow spots. Conger eels of two +or three feet in length were not uncommon. + +8th May. The town of Buschir is situated on a plain six miles from +the mountains, whose highest peak, called by the Persians Hormutsch, +by the English Halala, is 5,000 feet high. + +The town contains 15,000 inhabitants, and has the best harbour in +Persia; but its appearance is very dirty and ugly. + +The houses stand quite close together, so that it is easy to pass +from one to the other over the terraces, and it requires no great +exertion to run over the roofs, as the terraces are enclosed only by +walls one or two feet high. Upon some houses, square chambers +(called wind-catchers), fifteen or twenty feet high, are erected, +which can be opened above and at the sides, and serve to intercept +the wind and lead it into the apartments. + +The women here cover up their faces to such a degree that I cannot +imagine how they find their way about. Even the smallest girls +imitate this foolish custom. There is also no lack of nose-rings, +bracelets, sandals, etc.; but they do not wear nearly so many as the +Hindoos. The men are all armed; even in the house they carry +daggers or knives, and besides these, pistols in the streets. + +We remained two days in Buschir, where I was very well received by +Lieutenant Hennelt, the resident. + +I would gladly have left the ship here to visit the ruins of +Persepolis, and travel by land from thence to Shiraz, Ispahan, +Teheran, and so onwards; but serious disturbances had broken out in +these districts, and numerous hordes of robbers carried on their +depredations. I was in consequence compelled to alter my plan, and +to go straight on to Baghdad. + +10th May. In the afternoon we left Buschir. + +11th May. Today I had the gratification of seeing and sailing on +one of the most celebrated rivers in the world, the Schatel-Arab +(river of the Arabs), which is formed by the junction of the +Euphrates, Tigris, and Kaurun, and whose mouth resembles an arm of +the sea. The Schatel-Arab retains its name as far as the delta of +the Tigris and Euphrates. + +12th May. We left the sea and the mountains behind at the same +time, and on both shores immense plains opened before us whose +boundaries were lost in the distance. + +Twenty miles below Bassora we turned off into the Kaurun to set down +some passengers at the little town of Mahambrah, which lies near the +entrance of that river. We immediately turned back again, and the +captain brought the vessel round in the narrow space in an +exceedingly clever way. This proceeding caused the uninitiated some +anxiety; we expected every moment to see either the head or stern +run a-ground, but it succeeded well beyond all measure. The whole +population of the town was assembled on the shore; they had never +before seen a steamer, and took the most lively interest in the bold +and hazardous enterprise. + +About six years ago, the town Mahambrah experienced a terrible +catastrophe; it was at that time under Turkish rule, and was +surprised and plundered by the Persians; nearly all the inhabitants, +amounting to 5,000, were put to death. Since that period it has +been retained by the Persians. + +Towards noon we arrived at Bassora. Nothing is visible from the +river but some fortified works and large forests of date-trees, +behind which the town is situated far inland. + +The journey from Bombay to this place had occupied eighteen days, in +consequence of the unfavourable monsoon, and was one of the most +unpleasant voyages which I ever made. Always upon deck in the midst +of a dense crowd of people, with a heat which at noon time rose to +99 degrees 5' Fah., even under the shade of a tent. I was only once +able to change my linen and dress at Buschir, which was the more +annoying as one could not prevent the accumulation of vermin. I +longed for a refreshing and purifying bath. + +Bassora, one of the largest towns of Mesopotamia, has among its +inhabitants only a single European. I had a letter to the English +agent, an Armenian named Barseige, whose hospitality I was compelled +to claim, as there was no hotel. Captain Lichfield presented my +letter to him and made known my request, but the polite man refused +to grant it. The good captain offered me accommodation on board his +ship, so that I was provided for for the present. + +The landing of the Persian women presented a most laughable +spectacle: if they had been beauties of the highest order, or +princesses from the sultan's harem, there could not have been more +care taken to conceal them from the possibility of being seen by +men. + +I was indebted to my sex for the few glimpses which I caught of them +in the cabin; but among the whole eighteen women I did not see a +single good-looking one. Their husbands placed themselves in two +rows from the cabin to the ship's ladder, holding large cloths +stretched before them, and forming in this way a kind of opaque +moveable wall on both sides. Presently the women came out of the +cabin; they were so covered with large wrappers that they had to be +led as if they were blind. They stood close together between the +walls, and waited until the whole were assembled, when the entire +party, namely, the moveable wall and the beauties concealed behind +it, proceeded step by step. The scrambling over the narrow ship's +ladders was truly pitiable; first one stumbled, and then another. +The landing occupied more than an hour. + +13th May. The captain brought me word that a German missionary was +accidentally at Bassora, who had a dwelling with several rooms, and +could probably give me shelter. I went to him immediately, and he +was so obliging as to provide me with a room in which, at the same +time, I found a fireplace. I took leave of the good captain with +sincere regret. I shall never forget his friendliness and +attentions. He was a truly good-hearted man, and yet the +unfortunate crew, mostly Hindoos and negroes, were treated worse on +board his ship than I had observed elsewhere. This was the fault of +the two mates, who accompanied nearly every word with pushes and +blows of the fist. In Muscat three of the poor fellows ran away. + +The Christian Europeans excel the pagan Hindoos and Musselmen in +learning and science; might they not also at least equal the latter +in kindness and humanity? + +A small English war-steamer was expected at Bassora in the course of +a few days, which carried letters and dispatches between this place +and Baghdad, and whose captain was so good as to take European +travellers (of whom there are not many that lose themselves here) +with him. + +I availed myself of the few days of my stay to look about the town, +and see what still remains of its ancient celebrity. + +Bassora, or Bassra, was founded in the reign of the Caliph Omar, in +the year 656. Sometimes under Turkish, sometimes under Persian +dominion, it was at last permanently placed under the latter power. +There are no vestiges of antiquity remaining; neither ruins of +handsome mosques nor caravansaries. The fortified walls are much +dilapidated, the houses of the town small and unattractive, the +streets crooked, narrow, and dirty. The bazaar, which consists of +covered galleries with wretched stalls, cannot show a single good +stock of goods, although Bassora is the principal emporium and +trading port for the Indian wares imported into Turkey. There are +several coffee-stalls and a second-rate caravansary in the bazaar. +A large open space, not very remarkable for cleanliness, serves in +the day as a corn-market; and in the evening several hundred guests +are to be seen seated before a large coffee-stall, drinking coffee +and smoking nargillies. + +Modern ruins are abundant in Bassora, the result of the plague which +in the year 1832 carried off nearly one half of the inhabitants. +Numbers of streets and squares consist only of forsaken and decaying +houses. Where, a few years back, men were busily engaged in trade, +there is now nothing left but ruins and rubbish and weeds, and palms +grow between crumbling walls. + +The position of Bassora is said to be particularly unhealthy: the +plain surrounding it is intersected at one extremity with numerous +ditches filled with mud and filth, which give off noxious +exhalations, at the other it is covered with forests of date trees, +which hinders the current of air. The heat is so great here, that +nearly every house is furnished with an apartment, which lies +several feet below the level of the street, and has windows only in +the high arches. People live in these rooms during the day. + +The inhabitants consist for the most part of Arabs; the rest are +Persians, Turks, and Armenians. There are no Europeans. I was +advised to wrap myself in a large cloth and wear a veil when I went +out; the former I did, but I could not endure the veil in the +excessive heat, and went with my face uncovered. The cloth (isar) I +carried so clumsily that my European clothes were always visible; +nevertheless I was not annoyed by any one. + +On the 16th of May, the steamer Nitocris arrived. It was small +(forty horse power), but very handsome and clean; the captain, Mr. +Johns, declared himself ready to take me, and the first officer, Mr. +Holland, gave up his cabin to me. They would not take any +compensation either for passage or board. + +The journey from Bassora to Baghdad would have been very fatiguing +and inconvenient if I had not met with this opportunity. With a +boat it would have required forty or fifty days, as the distance is +500 English miles, and the boat must have been for greater part of +the distance drawn by men. The distance by land amounts to 390 +miles; but the road is through deserts, which are inhabited by +nomadic tribes of Bedouins, and over-run with hordes of robbers, +whose protection must be purchased at a high price. + +17th May. We weighed anchor in the morning at 11 o'clock, and +availed ourselves of the current which extends 120 miles up the +stream. + +In the afternoon we reached the point Korne, also called the Delta +(fifty miles from Bassora). The Tigris and Euphrates join here. +Both rivers are equally large, and as it could not, probably, be +decided which name should be retained, both were given up, and that +of Schatel-Arab adopted. + +Many learned writers attempt to give increased importance to this +place, by endeavouring to prove by indubitable evidence that the +garden of Eden was situated here. If this was the case, our worthy +progenitor made a long journey after he was driven out of Paradise, +to reach Adam's Peak in Ceylon. + +We now entered the Tigris. For a distance of three miles further, +we were gratified by the sight of beautiful forests of date-trees, +which we had already enjoyed, almost without intermission, from the +mouth of the Schatel-Arab; they now suddenly terminated. Both sides +of the river were still covered with a rich vegetation, and +beautiful orchards, alternated with extended plots of grass, which +were partially covered with bushes or shrub-like trees. This +fruitfulness, however, is said to extend only a few miles inland: +more distant from the river the country is a barren wilderness. + +We saw in several places large tribes of Bedouins, who had pitched +their tents in long rows, for the most part close to the banks. +Some of these hordes had large closely-covered tents; others again +had merely a straw mat, a cloth, or some skins stretched on a pair +of poles, scarcely protecting the heads of those lying under them +from the burning rays of the sun. In winter, when the temperature +frequently falls to freezing point, they have the same dwellings and +clothing as in summer: the mortality among them is then very great. +These people have a wild appearance, and their clothing consists of +only a dark-brown mantle. The men have a part of this drawn between +the legs, and another part hung round them; the women completely +envelop themselves in it; the children very commonly go quite naked +until the twelfth year. The colour of their skin is a dark brown, +the face slightly tattooed: both the men and women braid their hair +into four plaits, which hang down upon the back of the head and +temples. The weapons of the men are stout knotted sticks; the women +are fond of adorning themselves with glass beads, mussel-shells, and +coloured rags; they also wear large nose-rings. + +They are all divided into tribes, and are under the dominion of the +Porte, to whom they pay tribute; but they acknowledge allegiance +only to the sheikh elected by themselves, many of whom have forty or +fifty thousand tents under their control. Those tribes who +cultivate land have fixed dwellings; the pastoral tribes are +nomadic. + +Half-way between Bassora and Baghdad, the lofty mountain chain of +Luristan becomes visible. When the atmosphere is clear, the +summits, 10,000 feet high, and covered with perpetual snow, may be +seen. + +Every step in advance leads to the scene of the great deeds of +Cambyses, Cyrus, Alexander, etc.: every spot of ground has +historical associations. The country is the same; but what has +become of its towns and its powerful empires? Ruined walls and +heaps of earth and rubbish are the only remains of the most +beautiful cities; and where firmly established empires formerly +existed, are barren steppes overrun by robber hordes. + +The Arabs engaged in agriculture are themselves exposed to the +depredations of their nomadic countrymen, especially in harvest +time. In order to avoid this evil as much as possible, they bring +their crops into small fortified places, of which I observed many +between Bassora and Baghdad. + +We took in wood several times during the passage, and on these +occasions I could approach the inhabitants without fear, as they +were inspired with respect for the well-manned and armed vessel. In +one instance, I was led far into the underwood in pursuit of some +beautiful insects, when I found myself on a sudden surrounded by a +swarm of women and children, so that I thought it advisable to +hasten back again to the ship's people--not that any one offered me +any violence; but they crowded round me, handled my dress, wanted to +put on my straw bonnet; and this familiarity was far from pleasant +on account of their extreme dirtiness. The children seemed +shockingly neglected; many were covered with pimples and small +sores; and both great and small had their hands constantly in their +hair. + +At the places where we stopped they generally brought sheep and +butter, both of which were singularly cheap. A sheep cost at the +utmost five krans (4s. 6d.). They were very large and fat, with +long thick wool, and fat tails of about fifteen inches long and +eight inches broad. Our crew had a better diet than I had ever +noticed on board any ship. What pleased me even more was the equal +good treatment of the natives, who were not in any particular less +thought of than the English. I never met with greater order and +cleanliness than here--a proof that blows and thumps are not +indispensably necessary, as I had so often been assured. + +In the districts where the ground was covered with underwood and +grass, I saw several herds of wild swine; and there were said to be +lions here, who come from the mountains, especially during the +winter time, when they carried off cows and sheep: they very seldom +attacked men. I was so fortunate as to see a pair of lions, but at +such a distance, that I cannot say whether they exceeded in beauty +and size those in European menageries. Among the birds, the +pelicans were so polite as to make their respects to us by scraping. + +21st May. Today we saw the ruins of the palace of Khuszew +Anushirwan at Ctesiphon. Ctesiphon was formerly the capital of the +Parthian, and afterwards of the new Persian empire: it was +destroyed by the Arabs in the seventeenth century. Nearly opposite, +on the right bank of the Tigris, lay Seleucia, one of the most +celebrated towns of Babylon, and which, at the time of its +prosperity, had a free independent government and a population of +600,000 souls. The chief portion were Greeks. + +One obtained two views of Ctesiphon in passing, in consequence of +the river winding considerably--almost running back again several +miles. I made a trip there from Baghdad, and therefore reserve my +account of it. + +The old caliphate appears in marvellous magnificence and extent from +a distance, but unfortunately loses this on nearer approach. The +minarets and cupolas, inlaid with variegated earthenware tiles, +glitter in the clear sunlight; palaces, gateways, and fortified +works, in endless succession, bound the yellow, muddy Tigris; and +gardens, with date and other fruit trees, cover the flat country for +miles round. + +We had scarcely anchored, when a number of natives surrounded the +ship. They made use of very singular vehicles, which resemble round +baskets: these are formed of thick palm leaves, and covered with +asphalt. They are called "guffer;" are six feet in diameter and +three feet in height; are very safe, for they never upset, and may +be travelled in over the worst roads. Their invention is very +ancient. + +I had a letter to the English resident, Major Rawlinson; but as Mr. +Holland, the first officer of the ship, offered me the use of his +house, I took advantage of this, on account of his being a married +man, which Mr. Rawlinson was not. I found Mrs. Holland a very +pretty, amiable woman (a native of Baghdad), who, though only three- +and-twenty, had already four children, the eldest of whom was eight +years old. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. MESOPOTAMIA, BAGHDAD, AND BABYLON. + + + +BAGHDAD--PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS--CLIMATE--ENTERTAINMENT AT THE ENGLISH +RESIDENT'S--HAREM OF THE PASCHA OF BAGHDAD--EXCURSION TO THE RUINS +OF CTESIPHON--THE PERSIAN PRINCE, IL-HANY-ALA-CULY-MIRZA--EXCURSION +TO THE RUINS OF BABYLON--DEPARTURR FROM BAGHDAD. + +Baghdad, the capital of Assyria, was founded during the reign of the +Caliph Abu-Jasar-Almansor. A century later, in the reign of Haroun- +al-Raschid, the best and most enlightened of all the caliphs, the +town was at its highest pitch of prosperity; but at the end of +another century, it was destroyed by the Turks. In the sixteenth +century it was conquered by the Persians, and continued to be a +perpetual source of discord between them and the Turks, although it +at length became annexed to the Ottoman Empire. Nadir Schah again +endeavoured to wrest it from the Turks in the eighteenth century. + +The present population, of about 60,000 souls, consists of about +three-fourths Turks, and the remainder of Jews, Persians, Armenians, +and Arabs. There are only fifty or sixty Europeans living there. + +The town is partly situated on both sides of the Tigris, but chiefly +on the east. It is surrounded by fortified walls of brick, with +numerous towers at regular intervals; both walls and towers, +however, are weak, and even somewhat dangerous, and the cannons upon +them are not in good condition. + +The first thing that it was necessary for me to provide myself with +here, was a large linen wrapper, called isar, a small fez, and a +kerchief, which, wound round the fez, forms a little turban; but I +did not make use of the thick, stiff mask, made of horse-hair, which +covers the face, and under which the wearer is nearly suffocated. +It is impossible to imagine a more inconvenient out-door dress for +our sex than the one worn here. The isar gathers the dust from the +ground, and it requires some dexterity to hold it together in such a +way as to envelop the whole body. I pitied the poor women greatly, +who were often obliged to carry a child, or some other load, or +perhaps even to wash linen in the river. They never came from this +work, except dripping with water. Even the smallest girls here are +clothed in this way whenever they go out. + +In my Oriental dress I could walk about without any covering on my +face, perfectly uninterrupted. I first examined the town, but there +was not much to see, as there are no remains of the old Caliphate +buildings. The houses are of burnt bricks, and are only one story +high; the backs are all turned towards the streets, and it is but +rarely that a projecting part of the house is seen with narrow +latticed windows. Those houses only whose facades are towards the +Tigris make an exception to this rule; they have ordinary windows, +and are sometimes very handsome. I found the streets rather narrow, +and full of dirt and dust. The bridge of boats over the Tigris, +which is here 690 feet broad, is the most wretched that I ever saw. +The bazaars are very extensive. The old bazaar, a relic of the +former town, still shows traces of handsome columns and arabesques, +and Chan Osman is distinguished by its beautiful portal and lofty +arches. The principal passages are so broad, that there is room for +a horseman and two foot passengers, to go through side by side. The +merchants and artisans here, as in all eastern countries, live in +separate streets and passages. The better shops are to be found in +private houses, or in the chans at the bazaars. Miserable coffee- +stalls are everywhere numerous. + +The palace of the pascha is an extensive building, but neither +tasteful nor costly; it is imposing only from a distance. There are +but few mosques, and those present nothing costly or artistic, +except the inlaid tiles. + +To be able to overlook the whole of Baghdad, I mounted, with great +difficulty, the exterior of the dome of the Osman Chan, and was +truly astounded at the extent and beautiful position of the town. +It is impossible to form any idea of an Oriental town by passing +through the narrow and uniform streets, no matter how often, as +these are all alike, and, one with the other, resemble the passages +of a jail. But, from above, I looked down over the whole town, with +its innumerable houses, many of which are situated in pretty +gardens. I saw thousands and thousands of terraces spread at my +feet, and before all, the beautiful river, rolling on through dark +orchards and palm groves, to the town, which extends along its banks +for five miles. + +All the buildings are, as already remarked, constructed of unburnt +bricks, of which the greater part are stated to have been brought +down the Euphrates, from the ruins of the neighbouring city of +Babylon. By a close examination, traces of the old architecture are +to be found on the fortifications; the bricks of which they are +built are about two feet in diameter, and resemble fine slabs of +stone. + +The houses are prettier inside than out; they have clean plastered +courts, numerous windows, etc. The rooms are large and lofty, but +not nearly so magnificently furnished as those in Damascus. The +summer is so hot here, that people find it necessary to change their +rooms three times a-day. The early part of the morning is passed in +the ordinary rooms; towards 9 o'clock they retire, during the +remainder of the day, into the underground rooms, called sardab, +which, like cellars, are frequently situated fifteen or twenty feet +below the surface; at sunset they go up on to the terraces, where +they receive visits, gossip, drink tea, and remain until night. +This is the most pleasant time, as the evenings are cool and +enlivening. Many affirm the moonlight is clearer here than with us, +but I did not find this to be the case. People sleep on the +terraces under mosquito nets, which surround the whole bed. The +heat rises in the rooms, during the day, as high as 99 degrees; in +the sun, to 122 or 131 degrees Fah.; it seldom exceeds 88 degrees +25' in the sardabs. In winter, the evenings, nights, and mornings +are so cold, that fires are necessary in the rooms. + +The climate of this place is considered very healthy, even by +Europeans. Nevertheless, there is a disease here of which the young +females are terribly afraid, and which not only attacks the natives, +but strangers, when they remain several months here. This is a +disgusting eruption, which is called the Aleppo Boil, or Date-mark. + +This ulcer, which is at first no larger than a pin's head, gradually +increases to the size of a halfcrown piece, and leaves deep scars. +It generally breaks out on the face; there is scarcely one face +among a hundred, to be seen without these disfiguring marks. Those +who have only one have reason to consider themselves fortunate; I +saw many with two or three of them. Other parts of the body are +also not exempt. The ulcers generally appear with the ripening of +the dates, and do not go away until the next year, when the same +season returns again. This disease does not occur more than once in +a lifetime; it attacks children for the most part during their +infancy. No remedy is ever applied, as experience has shown that it +cannot be prevented; the Europeans have tried inoculation, but +without success. + +This disease is met with in several districts on the Tigris; there +are no traces of it to be found at a distance from the river. It +would appear, therefore, to be, in some way, connected with the +evaporation from the stream, or the mud deposited on its banks; the +former seems less probable, as the crews of the English steamers, +which are always on the river, escape, while all the Europeans who +live on land fall victims to it. One of the latter had forty such +boils, and I was told that he suffered horribly. The French consul, +who expected to remain here for several years, would not bring his +wife with him, to expose her face to the danger of these +ineradicable marks. I had only been here some weeks, when I +discovered slight indications of a boil on my hand, which became +large, but did not penetrate very deep, and left no permanent scar. +I exulted greatly at escaping so easily, but my exultation did not +continue long; only six months afterwards, when I had returned to +Europe, this disease broke out with such violence that I was covered +with thirteen of those boils, and had to contend with them more than +eight months. + +On the 24th of May I received an invitation from the English +resident, Major Rawlinson, to an entertainment in honour of the +queen's birthday. There were only Europeans present at dinner, but +in the evening, all denominations of the Christian world were +admitted--Armenians, Greeks, etc. This entertainment was given upon +the handsome terraces of the house. The floor was covered with soft +carpets; cushioned divans invited the fatigued to rest, and the +brilliant illumination of the terraces, courts, and gardens diffused +a light almost equal to that of day. Refreshments of the most +delicate kind made it difficult for Europeans to remember that they +were so far from their native country. Less deceptive were two +bands of music, one of which played European, the other native +pieces, for the amusement of the guests. Fire-works, with balloons +and Bengal lights, were followed by a sumptuous supper, which closed +the evening's entertainments. Among the women and girls present, +there were some remarkably beautiful, but all had most bewitching +eyes, which no young man could glance at with impunity. The art of +dyeing the eyelids and eyebrows principally contributes to this. +Every hair on the eyebrows which makes its appearance in an improper +place, is carefully plucked out, and those which are deficient have +their place most artistically supplied by the pencil. The most +beautiful arched form is thus obtained, and this, together with the +dyeing of the eyelids, increases uncommonly the brightness of the +eye. The desire for such artificial beauty extends itself even to +the commonest servant girls. + +The fair sex were dressed in Turkish-Greek costume; they wore silk +trousers, gathered together round the ankles, and over these, long +upper garments, embroidered with gold, the arms of which were tight +as far as the elbow, and were then slit open, and hung down. The +bare part of the arm was covered by silk sleeves. Round their +waists were fastened stiff girdles of the breadth of the hand, +ornamented in front with large buttons, and at the sides with +smaller ones. The buttons were of gold, and worked in enamel. +Mounted pearls, precious stones, and gold coins, decorated the arms, +neck, and breast. The head was covered with a small, pretty turban, +wound round with gold chains, or gold lace; numerous thin tresses of +hair stole from underneath, falling down to the hips. +Unfortunately, many of them had the bad taste to dye their hair, by +which its brilliant black was changed into an ugly brown-red. + +Beautiful as this group of women were in appearance, their society +was very uninteresting, for an unbroken silence was maintained by +these members of our garrulous sex, and not one of their pretty +faces expressed an emotion or sentiment. Mind and education, the +zests of life, were wanting. The native girls are taught nothing; +their education is completed when they are able to read in their +mother tongue (Armenian or Arabian), and then, with the exception of +some religious books, they have no other reading. + +It was more lively at a visit which I made, some days later, to the +harem of the pasha; there was then so much chatting, laughing, and +joking, that it was almost too much for me. My visit had been +expected, and the women, fifteen in number, were sumptuously dressed +in the same way that I have already described; with the single +exception, that the upper garment (kaftan) was shorter, and made of +a more transparent material, and the turbans ornamented with ostrich +feathers. + +I did not see any very handsome women here; they had only good eyes, +but neither noble nor expressive features. + +The summer harem, in which I was received, was a pretty building, in +the most modern style of European architecture, with lofty, regular +windows. It stood in the middle of a small flower-garden, which was +surrounded by a large fruit-garden. + +After I had been here rather more than an hour, a table was laid, +and chairs placed round it. The principal woman invited me to join +them, and leading the way, seated herself at the table, when, +without waiting till we were seated, she hastily picked out her +favourite morsels from the various dishes with her hands. I was +also compelled to help myself with my hands, as there was no knife +and fork in the whole house, and it was only towards the end of the +meal that a large gold teaspoon was brought for me. + +The table was profusely covered with excellent meat-dishes, with +different pilaus, and a quantity of sweet-meats and fruits. I found +them all delicious, and one dish so much resembled our fritters, +that I almost thought it was meant for them. + +After we had finished, those who had not room to sit down with us +took their seats together with some of the principal attendants: +after them came, in succession, the inferior slaves, among whom were +some very ugly negresses; these also seated themselves at the table, +and ate what remained. + +After the conclusion of the meal, strong coffee was handed round in +small cups, and nargillies brought. The cups stood in little golden +bowls, ornamented with pearls and turquoises. + +The pasha's women are distinguished from their attendants and slaves +only by their dress and jewellery; in demeanour I found no +difference. The attendants seated themselves without hesitation +upon the divans, joined, uninvited, in the conversation, smoked, and +drank coffee as we did. Servants and slaves are far better and more +considerately treated by the natives than by the Europeans. Only +the Turks hold slaves here. + +Although such strict decorum is observed in all public places, there +is an utter disregard of it in the harems and baths. While a part +of the women were engaged in smoking and drinking coffee, I slipped +away, and went into some of the adjoining apartments, where I saw +enough, in a few minutes, to fill me with disgust and commiseration +for these poor creatures; from slothfulness and the want of +education, morality appeared to be so degraded as to profane the +very name of humanity. + +I was not less grieved by a visit to a public female bath. There +were young children, girls, women, and mothers; some having their +hands, feet, nails, eyebrows, hair, etc., washed and coloured: +others were being bathed with water, or rubbed with fragrant oils +and pomades, while the children played about among them. While all +this was going on, the conversation that prevailed was far from +being remarkable for its decency. Poor children! how are they to +acquire a respect for modesty, when they are so early exposed to the +influence of such pernicious examples. + +Among the other curiosities of Baghdad, I saw the funeral monument +of Queen Zobiede, the favourite wife of Haroun-al-Raschid. It is +interesting, because it differs very much from the ordinary +monuments of the Mahomedans. Instead of handsome cupolas and +minarets, it consists of a moderate sized tower, rising from an +octagon building; the tower has a considerable resemblance to those +of the Hindoo temples. In the interior stand three plainly built +tombs, in one of which the queen is buried; in the other two, +relations of the royal family. The whole is constructed of bricks, +and was formerly covered with handsome cement, coloured tiles, and +arabesques, of which traces still remain. + +Mahomedans consider all such monuments sacred; they frequently come +from great distances to offer up their devotions before them. They +think it equally desirable to erect a burial-place near such a +monument, which they show with pride to their friends and relations. +Round this monument there were large spaces covered with tombs. + +On the return from this monument, I went a little out of my way to +see that part of the town which had fallen into ruins, and been +desolated by the last plague. Herr Swoboda, an Hungarian, gave me a +dreadful picture of the state of the town at that time. He had shut +himself closely up with his family and a maid servant, and being +well furnished with provisions, received nothing from outside but +fresh water. He carefully plastered up the doors and windows, and +no one was allowed to go out upon the terraces, or, indeed, into the +air at all. + +These precautions were the means of preserving his whole family in +health, while many died in the neighbouring houses. It was +impossible to bury all the dead, and the bodies were left to +decompose where they died. After the plague had ceased, the Arabs +of the desert made their appearance for the purpose of robbing and +plundering. They found an easy spoil, for they penetrated without +resistance into the empty houses, or without difficulty overpowered +the few enfeebled people who remained. Herr Swoboda, among the +rest, was obliged to make an agreement with the Arabs, and pay +tribute. + +I was glad to leave this melancholy place, and directed my steps +towards some of the pleasant gardens, of which there are great +numbers in and round Baghdad. None of these gardens, however, are +artificial; they consist simply of a thick wood of fruit-trees, of +all species (dates, apple, apricot, peach, fig, mulberry, and other +trees), surrounded by a brick wall. There is, unfortunately, +neither order nor cleanliness observed, and there are neither grass +plots nor beds of flowers, and not a single good path; but there is +a considerable number of canals, as it is necessary to substitute +artificial watering for rain and dew. + +I made two long excursions from Baghdad; one to the ruins of +Ctesiphon, the other to those of Babylon. The former are eighteen, +the latter sixty miles distant from Baghdad. On both occasions, +Major Rawlinson provided me with good Arabian horses, and a trusty +servant. + +I was obliged to make the journey to Ctesiphon and back again in one +day, to avoid passing the night in the desert; and, indeed, had to +accomplish it between sunrise and sunset, as it is the custom in +Baghdad, as in all Turkish towns, to close the gates towards sunset, +and to give up the keys to the governor. The gates are again opened +at sunrise. + +My considerate hostess would have persuaded me to take a quantity of +provisions with me; but my rule in travelling is to exclude every +kind of superfluity. Wherever I am certain to find people living, I +take no eatables with me, for I can content myself with whatever +they live upon; if I do not relish their food, it is a sign that I +have not any real hunger, and I then fast until it becomes so great +that any kind of dish is acceptable. I took nothing with me but my +leathern water flask, and even this was unnecessary, as we +frequently passed creeks of the Tigris, and sometimes the river +itself, although the greater part of the road lay through the +desert. + +About half-way, we crossed the river Dhyalah in a large boat. On +the other side of the stream, several families, who live in huts on +the bank, subsist by renting the ferry. I was so fortunate as to +obtain here some bread and buttermilk, with which I refreshed +myself. The ruins of Ctesiphon may already be seen from this place, +although they are still nine miles distant. We reached them in +three hours and a half. + +Ctesiphon formerly rose to be a very powerful city on the Tigris; it +succeeded Babylon and Seleucia; the Persian viceroys resided in the +summer at Ecbatania, in the winter at Ctesiphon. The present +remains consist only of detached fragments of the palace of the +Schah Chosroes. These are the colossal arched gate-porch, together +with the gate, a part of the principal front, and some side walls, +all of which are so strong that it is probable that travellers may +still continue to be gratified with a sight of them for centuries. +The arches of the Tauk-kosra gate is the highest of the kind that is +known; it measures ninety feet, and is therefore about fifteen feet +higher than the principal gate at Fattipore-Sikri, near Agra, which +is erroneously represented by many as being the highest. The wall +rises sixteen feet above the arch. + +On the facade of the palace, small niches, arches, pillars, etc., +are hewn out from the top to bottom; the whole appears to be covered +with fine cement, in which the most beautiful arabesques are still +to be seen. Opposite these ruins on the western shore of the +Tigris, lie a few remains of the walls of Seleucia, the capital of +Macedonia. + +On both banks, extensive circles of low mounds are visible in every +direction; these all contain, at a slight depth, bricks and rubbish. + +Not far from the ruins stands a plain mosque, which holds the tomb +of Selamam Pak. This man was a friend of Mahomet's, and is on that +account honoured as a saint. I was not allowed to enter the mosque, +and was obliged to content myself with looking in through the open +door. I saw only a tomb built of bricks, surrounded by a wooden +lattice, painted green. + +I had already observed a number of tents along the banks of the +Tigris on first reaching the ruins; my curiosity induced me to visit +them, where I found everything the same as among the desert Arabs, +except that the people were not so savage and rough; I could have +passed both day and night among them without apprehension. This +might be from my having been accustomed to such scenes. + +A much more agreeable visit was before me. While I was amusing +myself among the dirty Arabs, a Persian approached, who pointed to a +pretty tent which was pitched at a short distance from us, and said +a few words to me. My guide explained to me that a Persian prince +lived in this tent, and that he had politely invited me by this +messenger. I accepted the invitation with great pleasure, and was +received in a very friendly manner by the prince, who was named Il- +Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza. + +The prince was a handsome young man, and said that he understood +French; but we soon came to a stop with that, as his knowledge of it +did not extend beyond "Vous parlez Francais!" Luckily, one of his +people had a better acquaintance with English, and so we were able +to carry on some conversation. + +The interpreter explained to me that the prince resided in Baghdad, +but on account of the oppressive heat, he had taken up his residence +here for some time. He was seated upon a low divan under an open +tent, and his companions reclined upon carpets. To my surprise, he +had sufficient politeness to offer me a seat by his side upon the +divan. Our conversation soon became very animated, and his +astonishment when I related to him my travels increased with every +word. While we were talking, a nargilly of most singular beauty was +placed before me; it was made of light-blue enamel on gold, +ornamented with pearls, turquoises, and precious stones. For +politeness' sake, I took a few puffs from it. Tea and coffee were +also served, and afterwards the prince invited me to dinner. A +white cloth was spread upon the ground, and flat cakes of bread, +instead of plates, laid upon it: an exception was made for me, as I +had a plate and knife and fork. The dinner consisted of a number of +dishes of meat, among which was a whole lamb with the head, which +did appear very inviting; besides these, several pilaus, and a large +roast fish. Between the eatables stood bowls of curds and whey, and +sherbet: in each bowl was a large spoon. The lamb was carved by a +servant with a knife and the hand; he distributed the parts among +the guests, placing a piece upon the cake of bread before each one. +They ate with their right hand. Most of them tore off small morsels +of meat or fish, dipped them in one of the pilaus, kneaded them into +a ball, and put them into their mouths. Some, however, ate the fat +dishes without pilau; after each mouthful they wiped off the fat, +which ran over their fingers, on the bread. They drank a great deal +while eating, all using the same spoons. At the conclusion of the +meal, the prince, in spite of the strict prohibition of wine, +ordered some to be brought (my presence serving as an excuse). He +then poured out a glass for me, and drank a couple himself--one to +my health and one to his own. + +When I told him that I intended to go to Persia, and in particular +to Teheran, he offered to give me a letter to his mother, who was at +court, and under whose protection I could be introduced there. He +wrote immediately, using his knee for want of a table, pressed his +signet ring upon the letter, and gave it to me; but told me +laughingly not to say anything to his mother about his having drank +wine. + +After meal time, I asked the prince whether he would allow me to pay +a visit to his wife,--I had already learned that one of his wives +was with him. My request was granted, and I was led immediately +into a building, near which had formerly been a small mosque. + +I was here received in a cool arched apartment by a remarkably +handsome young creature. She was the most beautiful of all the +women I had ever yet seen in harems. Her figure, of middling +proportions, was most exquisitely symmetrical; her features were +noble and truly classical; and her large eyes had a melancholy +expression: the poor thing was alone here, and had no society but +an old female servant and a young gazelle. Her complexion, probably +not quite natural, was of dazzling whiteness, and a delicate red +tinted her cheeks. The eyebrows only, in my opinion, were very much +deformed by art. They were in the form of a dark-blue streak, an +inch wide, which extended in two connected curves from one temple to +the other, and gave the face a somewhat dark and very uncommon +appearance. The principal hairs were not dyed; her hands and arms, +however, were slightly tattooed. She explained to me that this +shocking operation was performed upon her when she was only a child, +a custom which is also practised by the Mahomedan women in Baghdad. + +The dress of this beauty was like that of the women in the pasha's +harem, but instead of the small turban, she wore a white muslin +cloth lightly twisted round the head, which she could also draw over +her face as a veil. + +Our conversation was not very lively, as the interpreter was not +allowed to follow me into this sanctum. We were therefore obliged +to content ourselves with making signs and looking at one another. + +When I returned to the prince, I expressed to him my wonder at the +rare beauty of his young wife, and asked him what country was the +cradle of this true angel. He told me the north of Persia, and +assured me, at the same time, that his other wives, of whom he had +four in Baghdad and four in Teheran with his mother, very much +excelled this one in beauty. + +When I would have taken my leave of the prince to return home, he +proposed to me that I should remain a little while longer and hear +some Persian music. Two minstrels presently appeared, one of whom +had a kind of mandolin with five strings; the other was a singer. +The musician preluded very well, played European as well as Persian +melodies, and handled his instrument with great facility; the singer +executed roulades, and, unfortunately, his voice was neither +cultivated nor pure; but he seldom gave false notes, and they both +kept good time. The Persian music and songs had considerable range +of notes and variations in the melody; I had not heard anything like +them for a long time. + +I reached home safely before sunset, and did not feel very much +fatigued, either by the ride of thirty-six miles, the terrible heat, +or the wandering about on foot. Only two days afterwards, I set out +on my road to the ruins of the city of Babylon. The district in +which these ruins lie is called Isak-Arabia, and is the seat of the +ancient Babylonia and Chaldea. + +I rode, the same evening, twenty miles, as far as the Chan Assad. +The palms and fruit-trees gradually decreased in number, the +cultivated ground grew less and less, and the desert spread itself +before me, deadening all pleasure and animation. Here and there +grew some low herbage scarcely sufficient for the frugal camel; even +this ceases a few miles before coming to Assad, and from thence to +Hilla the desert appeared uninterruptedly in its sad and uniform +nakedness. + +We passed the place where the town of Borossippa formerly stood, and +where it is said that a pillar of Nourhwan's palace is yet to be +seen; but I could not discover it anywhere, although the whole +desert lay open before me and a bright sunset afforded abundance of +light. I therefore contented myself with the place, and did not, on +that account, remember with less enthusiasm the great Alexander, +here at the last scene of his actions, when he was warned not to +enter Babylon again. Instead of the pillar, I saw the ruins of one +large and several smaller canals. The large one formerly united the +Euphrates with the Tigris, and the whole served for irrigating the +land. + +31st May. I had never seen such numerous herds of camels as I did +today; there might possibly have been more than 7,000 or 8,000. As +most of them were unloaded and carried only a few tents, or women +and children, it was probably the wandering of a tribe in search of +a more fruitful dwelling-place. Among this enormous number, I saw +only a few camels that were completely white. These are very highly +prized by the Arabians; indeed, almost honoured as superior beings. +When I first saw the immense herd of these long-legged animals +appearing in the distant horizon, they looked like groups of small +trees; and I felt agreeably surprised to meet with vegetation in +this endless wilderness. But the wood, like that in Shakspere's +Macbeth, shortly advanced towards us, and the stems changed into +legs and the crowns into bodies. + +I also observed a species of bird today to which I was a complete +stranger. It resembled, in colour and size, the small green +papagien, called paroquets, except that its beak was rather less +crooked and thick. It lives, like the earth-mouse, in small holes +in the ground. I saw flocks of them at two of the most barren +places in the desert, where there was no trace of a blade of grass +to be discovered, far and wide. + +Towards 10 o'clock in the morning, we halted for two hours only at +Chan Nasri, as I was resolved to reach Hilla today. The heat rose +above 134 degrees Fah.; but a hot wind, that continually accompanied +us, was still more unbearable, and drove whole clouds of hot sand +into the face. We frequently passed half-ruined canals during the +day. + +The chans upon this road are among the best and the most secure that +I have ever met with. From the exterior, they resemble small +fortresses; a high gateway leads into a large court-yard, which is +surrounded on all sides by broad, handsome halls built with thick +brick walls. In the halls, there are niches arranged in rows; each +one being large enough to serve three or four persons as a resting- +place. Before the niches, but also under the halls, are the places +for the cattle. In the court-yard, a terrace is also built five +feet high for sleeping in the hot summer nights. There are likewise +a number of rings and posts for the cattle in the court, where they +can be in the open air during the night. + +These chans are adapted for whole caravans, and will contain as many +as 500 travellers, together with animals and baggage; they are +erected by the government, but more frequently by wealthy people, +who hope by such means to procure a place in heaven. Ten or twelve +soldiers are appointed to each chan as a guard. The gates are +closed in the evening. Travellers do not pay anything for staying +at these places. + +Some Arabian families generally live outside the chans, or even in +them, and they supply the place of host, and furnish travellers with +camel's milk, bread, coffee, and sometimes, also, with camel's or +goat's flesh. I found the camel's milk rather disagreeable, but the +flesh is so good that I thought it had been cow-beef, and was +greatly surprised when my guide told me that it was not. + +When travellers are furnished with a pasha's firman (letter of +recommendation), they can procure one or more mounted soldiers (all +the soldiers at the chans have horses) to accompany them through +dangerous places, and at times of disturbances. I had such a +firman, and made use of it at night. + +In the afternoon we approached the town of Hilla, which now occupies +a part of the space where Babylon formerly stood. Beautiful woods +of date-trees indicated from afar the inhabited country, but +intercepted our view of the town. + +Four miles from Hilla we turned off the road to the right, and +shortly found ourselves between enormous mounds of fallen walls and +heaps of bricks. The Arabs call these ruins Mujellibe. The largest +of these mounds of bricks and rubbish is 2,110 feet in +circumference, and 141 feet in height. + +Babylon, as is known, was one of the greatest cities of the world. +With respect to its founder there are various opinions. Some say +Ninus, others Belus, others Semiramis, etc. It is said that, at the +building of the city (about 2,000 years before the birth of Christ), +two million of workmen, and all the architects and artificers of the +then enormous Syrian empire, were employed. The city walls are +described as having been 150 feet high, and twenty feet thick. The +city was defended by 250 towers; it was closed by a hundred brazen +gates, and its circumference was sixty miles. It was separated into +two parts by the Euphrates. On each bank stood a beautiful palace, +and the two were united by an artistic bridge, and even a tunnel was +constructed by the Queen Semiramis. But the greatest curiosities +were the temples of Belus and the hanging gardens. The tower of the +temple was ornamented with three colossal figures, made of pure +gold, and representing gods. The hanging gardens (one of the seven +wonders of the world) are ascribed to Nebuchadnezar, who is said to +have built them at the wish of his wife Amytis. + +Six hundred and thirty years before Christ, the Babylonian empire +was at the highest point of its magnificence. At this time it was +conquered by the Chaldeans. It was afterwards subject in succession +to the Persians, Osmans, Tartars, and others, until the year A.D. +1637, since which time it has remained under the Osman government. + +The temple of Belus or Baal was destroyed by Xerxes, and Alexander +the Great would have restored it; but as it would have required +10,000 men for two months (others say two years) merely to remove +the rubbish, he did not attempt it. + +One of the palaces is described as having been the residence of the +king, the other a castle. Unfortunately they are so fallen to +decay, that they afford no means of forming a satisfactory opinion +even to antiquarians. It is supposed, however, that the ruins +called Mujellibe are the remains of the castle. Another large heap +of ruins is situated about a mile distant, called El Kasir. +According to some, the temple of Baal stood here, according to +others the royal palace. Massive fragments of walls and columns are +still to be seen, and in a hollow a lion in dark grey granite, of +such a size that at some distance I took it for an elephant. It is +very much damaged, and, to judge from what remains, does not appear +to have been the work of a great artist. + +The mortar is of extraordinary hardness; it is easier to break the +bricks themselves, than to separate them from it. The bricks of all +the ruins are partly yellow and partly red, a foot long, nearly as +broad, and half an inch thick. + +In the ruins El Kasir stands a solitary tree, which belongs to a +species of firs which is quite unknown in this district. The Arabs +call it Athale, and consider it sacred. There are said to be +several of the same kind near Buschir--they are there called Goz or +Guz. + +Many writers see something very extraordinary in this tree; indeed +they go so far as to consider it as a relic of the hanging gardens, +and affirm that it gives out sad melancholy tones when the wind +plays through its branches, etc. Everything, indeed, is possible +with God; but that this half-stunted tree which is scarcely eighteen +feet high, and whose wretched stem is at most only nine inches in +diameter, is full 3,000 years old, appears to me rather too +improbable! + +The country round Babylon is said to have been formerly so +flourishing and fruitful, that it was called the Paradise of +Chaldea. This productiveness ceased with the existence of the +buildings. + +As I had seen everything completely, I rode on as far as Hilla, on +the other side of the Euphrates. A most miserable bridge of forty- +six boats is here thrown across the river, which is four hundred and +thirty feet broad. Planks and trunks of trees are laid from one +boat to the other, which move up and down at every step; there is no +railing at the side, and the space is so narrow that two riders can +scarcely pass. The views along the river are very charming; I found +the vegetation here still rich, and several mosques and handsome +buildings give life to the blooming landscape. + +In Hilla I was received by a rich Arab. As the sun was already very +near setting, I was shown to a beautiful terrace instead of a room. +A delicious pilau, roast lamb, and steamed vegetables were sent to +me for supper, with water and sour milk. + +The terraces here were not surrounded by any walls, a circumstance +which was very agreeable to me, as it gave me an opportunity of +observing the mode of life and customs of my neighbours. + +In the court-yards I saw the women engaged in making bread, and in +the same way as at Bandr-Abas. The men and children meanwhile +spread straw mats upon the terraces, and brought dishes with pilaus, +vegetables, or some other eatables. As soon as the bread was ready, +they began their meal. The women also seated themselves, and I +thought that the modern Arabs were sufficiently advanced in +civilization to give my sex their place at table. But to my regret +I saw the poor women, instead of helping themselves from the dishes, +take straw fans to keep off the flies from the heads of their +husbands. They may have had their meal afterwards in the house, for +I did not see them eat anything, either upon the terraces or in the +courts. They all slept upon the terraces. Both men and women +wrapped themselves in rugs, and neither the one nor the other took +off any of their clothing. + +1st June. I had ordered for this morning two fresh horses and Arabs +as a guard, that I might proceed with some safety to the ruins of +Birs Nimroud. These ruins are situated six miles distant from +Hilla, in the desert or plain of Shinar, near the Euphrates, upon a +hill 265 feet high, built of bricks, and consist of the fragments of +a wall twenty-eight feet long, on one side thirty feet high, and on +the other thirty-five. The greater part of the bricks are covered +with inscriptions. Near this wall lie several large blackish blocks +which might be taken for lava, and it is only on closer examination +that they are found to be remains of walls. It is supposed that +such a change could only have been brought about by lightning. + +People are not quite unanimous in their opinions with respect to +these ruins. Some affirm that they are the remains of the Tower of +Babel, others that they are those of the Temple of Baal. + +There is an extensive view from the top of the hill over the desert, +the town of Hilla with its charming palm-gardens, and over +innumerable mounds of rubbish and brick-work. Near these ruins +stands an unimportant Mahomedan chapel, which is said to be on the +same spot where, according to the Old Testament, the three youths +were cast into the furnace for refusing to worship idols. + +In the afternoon I was again in Hilla. I looked over the town, +which is said to contain 26,000 inhabitants, and found it built like +all Oriental towns. Before the Kerbela gates is to be seen the +little mosque Esshems, which contains the remains of the prophet +Joshua. It completely resembles the sepulchre of the Queen Zobiede +near Baghdad. + +Towards evening the family of my obliging host, together with some +other women and children, paid me a visit. Their natural good sense +had deterred them from visiting me on the day of my arrival, when +they knew I was fatigued by the long ride. I would willingly have +excused their visit today also, for neither the rich nor poor Arabs +have much idea of cleanliness. They, moreover, would put the little +dirty children into my arms or on my lap, and I did not know how to +relieve myself of this pleasure. Many of them had Aleppo boils, and +others sore eyes and skin diseases. After the women and children +had left, my host came. He was, at least, clean in his dress, and +conducted himself with more politeness. + +On the 2nd of July I left Hilla at sunrise, and went on, without +stopping, to the Khan Scandaria (sixteen miles), where I remained +some hours; and then went the same day as far as Bir-Zanus, sixteen +miles further. About an hour after midnight I again halted, and +took a soldier to accompany me. We had scarcely proceeded four or +five miles from the khan when we perceived a very suspicious noise. +We stopped, and the servant told me to be very quiet, so that our +presence might not be detected. The soldier dismounted, and crept +rather than walked in the sand to reconnoitre the dangerous spot. +My exhaustion was so great that, although alone in this dark night +on the terrible desert, I began to doze upon the horse, and did not +wake up till the soldier returned with a cry of joy, and told us +that we had not fallen in with a horde of robbers, but with a +sheikh, who, in company with his followers, were going to Baghdad. +We set spurs to our horses, hastened after the troop, and joined +them. The chief greeted me by passing his hand over his forehead +towards his breast; and, as a sign of his good will, offered me his +arms, a club with an iron head, covered with a number of spikes. +Only a sheikh is allowed to carry such a weapon. + +I remained in the sheikh's company until sunrise, and then quickened +my horse's pace, and at about 8 o'clock was again seated in my +chamber at Baghdad, after having, in the short space of three days +and a half, ridden 132 miles and walked about a great deal. The +distance from Baghdad to Hilla is considered to be sixty miles, and +from Hilla to Birs Nimroud six. + +I had now seen everything in and around Baghdad, and was desirous of +starting on my journey towards Ispahan. Just at this time the +Persian prince, Il-Hany-Ala-Culy-Mirza, sent me a letter, informing +me that he had received very bad news from his native country; the +governor of Ispahan had been murdered, and the whole province was in +a state of revolt. It was therefore impossible to enter Persia by +this route. I decided in this case to go as far as Mosul, and there +determine my further course according to circumstances. + +Before concluding my account of Baghdad, I must state that at first +I was greatly afraid of scorpions, as I had heard that there were +great numbers there; but I never saw one, either in the sardabs or +on the terraces, and during my stay of four weeks only found one in +the court. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. MOSUL AND NINEVEH. + + + +JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN THROUGH THE DESERT--ARRIVAL AT MOSUL-- +CURIOSITIES--EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH AND THE VILLAGE OF +NEBBI YUNUS--SECOND EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH--TEL-NIMROUD-- +ARABIAN HORSES--DEPARTURE FROM MOSUL. + +In order to travel from Baghdad to Mosul safely, and without great +expense, it is necessary to join a caravan. I requested Herr +Swoboda to direct me to a trustworthy caravan guide. I was indeed +advised not to trust myself alone among the Arabs, at least to take +a servant with me; but with my limited resources this would have +been too expensive. Moreover, I was already pretty well acquainted +with the people, and knew from experience that they might be +trusted. + +A caravan was to have left on the 14th of June, but the caravan +guides, like the ship captains, always delay some days, and so we +did not start until the 17th instead of the 14th. + +The distance from Baghdad to Mosul is 300 miles, which occupy in +travelling from twelve to fourteen days. Travellers ride either +horses or mules, and in the hot months travel during the night. + +I had hired a mule for myself and my little baggage, for which I +paid the low price of fifteen krans (12s. 6d.), and had neither +fodder nor anything else to provide. + +Every one who intends proceeding with the caravan is obliged to +assemble before the city gate about 5 o'clock in the evening. Herr +Swoboda accompanied me there, and particularly recommended me to the +care of the caravan guide, and promised him in my name a good +bachshish if he saved me all the trouble he could during the +journey. + +In this way I entered upon a fourteen days' journey through deserts +and steppes, a journey full of difficulties and dangers, without any +convenience, shelter, or protection. I travelled like the poorest +Arab, and was obliged, like him, to be content to bear the most +burning sun, with no food but bread and water, or, at the most, a +handful of dates, or some cucumbers, and with the hot ground for a +bed. + +I had, while in Baghdad, written out a small list of Arabian words, +so that I might procure what was most necessary. Signs were easier +to me than words, and by the aid of both, I managed to get on very +well. I became in time so used to the signs that, in places where I +could make use of the language, I was obliged to take some pains to +prevent myself from using my hands at the same time. + +While I was taking leave of Herr Swoboda, my little portmanteau, and +a basket with bread and other trifles, had already been put into two +sacks, which were hung over the back of the mule. My mantle and +cushion formed a comfortable soft seat, and everything was in +readiness--only the mounting was rather difficult, as there was no +stirrup. + +Our caravan was small. It counted only twenty-six animals, most of +which carried merchandise, and twelve Arabs, of whom five went on +foot. A horse or mule carries from two to three and a half +hundredweight, according to the state of the road. + +About 6 we started. Some miles outside the town several other +travellers joined us, chiefly pedlars with loaded animals, so that +presently our party increased in numbers to sixty. But our numbers +changed every evening, as some always remained behind, or others +joined us. We often had with us some shocking vagabonds, of whom I +was more afraid than robbers. It is, moreover, said not to be +uncommon for thieves to join the caravan, for the purpose of +carrying on their depredations, if there should be an opportunity of +doing so. + +I should, on the whole, have no great faith in the protection which +such a caravan is capable of affording, as the people who travel in +this way are principally pedlars, pilgrims, and such like, who +probably have never in their lives used a sword or fired a gun. A +few dozen well-armed robbers would certainly get the better of a +caravan of even a hundred persons. + +On the first night we rode ten hours, until we reached Jengitsche. +The country around was flat and barren, uncultivated and +uninhabited. Some few miles outside Baghdad cultivation appeared to +be suddenly cut off, and it was not until we came to Jengitsche that +we saw again palms and stubble fields, showing that human industry +is capable of producing something everywhere. + +Travelling with caravans is very fatiguing: although a walking pace +is never exceeded, they are on the road from nine to twelve hours +without halting. When travelling at night the proper rest is lost, +and in the day it is scarcely possible to get any sleep, exposed in +the open air to the excessive heat, and the annoyances of flies and +mosquitoes. + +18th June. In Jengitsche we met with a chan, but it was by no means +equal in appearance and cleanliness to that on the road to Babylon; +its chief advantage was being situated near the Tigris. + +The chan was surrounded by a small village, to which I proceeded for +the purpose of satisfying my hunger. I went from hut to hut, and at +last fortunately succeeded in obtaining some milk and three eggs. I +laid the eggs in the hot ashes and covered them over, filled my +leathern flask from the Tigris, and thus loaded returned proudly to +the chan. The eggs I ate directly, but saved the milk for the +evening. After this meal, procured with such difficulty, I +certainly felt happier, and more contented than many who had dined +in the most sumptuous manner. + +During my search through the village, I noticed, from the number of +ruined houses and huts, that it seemed to have been of some extent +formerly. Here, also, the last plague had carried off the greater +part of the inhabitants; for, at the present time, there were only a +few very poor families. + +I here saw a very peculiar mode of making butter. The cream was put +into a leathern bottle, and shaken about on the ground until the +butter had formed. When made, it was put into another bottle filled +with water. It was as white as snow, and I should have taken it for +lard if I had not seen it made. + +We did not start this evening before 10 o'clock, and then rode +eleven hours without halting, to Uesi. The country here was less +barren than that between Baghdad and Jengitsche. We did not, +indeed, see any villages on the road; but small groups of palms, and +the barking of dogs, led us to conclude that there were some very +near. At sun-rise we were gratified by the sight of a low range of +mountains, and the monotony of the plain was here and there broken +at intervals, by small rows of hills. + +19th June. Yesterday I was not quite satisfied with the chan at +Jengitsche; but I should have been very thankful for a far worse one +today, that we might have found any degree of shelter from the +pitiless heat of the sun; instead, we were obliged to make our +resting place in a field of stubble, far removed from human +habitations. The caravan guide endeavoured to give me some little +shade by laying a small cover over a couple of poles stuck into the +ground; but the place was so small, and the artificial tent so weak, +that I was compelled to sit quietly in one position, as the +slightest movement would have upset it. How I envied the +missionaries and scientific men, who undertake their laborious +journeys furnished with horses, tents, provisions, and servants. +When I wished, shortly afterwards, to take some refreshments, I had +nothing but lukewarm water, bread so hard that I was obliged to sop +it in water to be able to eat it, and a cucumber without salt or +vinegar! However, I did not lose my courage and endurance, or +regret, even for a moment, that I had exposed myself to these +hardships. + +We set out again about 8 o'clock in the evening, and halted about 4 +in the morning at Deli-Abas. The low range of mountains still +remained at our side. From Deli-Abas we crossed the river Hassei by +a bridge built over it. + +20th June. We found a chan here; but it was so decayed that we were +obliged to encamp outside, as there is danger of snakes and +scorpions in such ruins. A number of dirty Arab tents lay near the +chan. The desire for something more than bread and cucumber, or +old, half-rotten dates, overcame my disgust, and I crept into +several of these dwellings. The people offered me buttermilk and +bread. I noticed several hens running about the tents with their +young, and eagerly looking for food. I would gladly have bought +one, but as I was not disposed to kill and prepare it myself, I was +obliged to be contented with the bread and buttermilk. + +Some plants grow in this neighbourhood which put me in mind of my +native country--the wild fennel. At home I scarcely thought them +worth a glance, while here they were a source of extreme +gratification. I am not ashamed to say, that at the sight of these +flowers the tears came into my eyes, and I leant over them and +kissed them as I would a dear friend. + +We started again today, as early as 5 in the evening, as we had now +the most dangerous stage of the journey before us, and were desirous +of passing it before nightfall. The uniformly flat sandy desert in +some degree altered in character. Hard gravel rattled under the +hoofs of the animals; mounds, and strata of rock alternated with +rising ground. Many of the former were projecting from the ground +in their natural position, others had been carried down by floods, +or piled over each other. If this strip had not amounted to more +than 500 or 600 feet, I should have taken it to be the former bed of +a river; but as it was, it more resembled the ground left by the +returning of the sea. In many places saline substances were +deposited, whose delicate crystals reflected the light in all +directions. + +This strip of ground, which is about five miles long, is dangerous, +because the hills and rocks serve as a favourable ambush for +robbers. Our drivers constantly urged the poor animals on. They +were obliged to travel here over hills and rocks quicker than across +the most convenient plains. We passed through in safety before +darkness came on, and then proceeded more leisurely on our journey. + +21st June. Towards 1 in the morning, we came up with the town +Karatappa, of which, however, we saw only the walls. A mile beyond +this we halted in some stubble fields. The extensive deserts and +plains end here, and we entered upon a more cultivated and hilly +country. + +On the 22nd of June, we halted in the neighbourhood of the town +Kuferi. + +Nothing favourable can be said of any of the Turkish towns, as they +so much resemble each other in wretchedness, that it is a pleasure +not to be compelled to enter them. The streets are dirty, the +houses built of mud or unburnt bricks, the places of worship +unimportant, miserable stalls and coarse goods constitute the +bazaars, and the people, dirty and disgusting, are of a rather brown +complexion. The women increase their natural ugliness, by dyeing +their hair and nails reddish brown with henna, and by tattooing +their hands and arms. Even at twenty-five years old, they appear +quite faded. + +On the 23rd of June, we halted not far from the town of Dus, and +took up our resting-place for the day. + +In this place, I was struck by the low entrances of the houses; they +were scarcely three feet high, so that the people were obliged to +crawl rather than walk into them. + +On the 25th of June, we came to Daug, where I saw a monument which +resembled that of Queen Zobiede in Baghdad. I could not learn what +great or holy man was buried under it. + +25th June. At 4 this morning we came to the place where our caravan +guide lived, a village about a mile from Kerku. His house was +situated, with several others, in a large dirty court-yard, which +was surrounded by a wall with only one entrance. This court-yard +resembled a regular encampment: all the inhabitants slept there; +and, besides these, there was no want of mules, horses, and asses. +Our animals immediately went to their stalls, and trod so near to +the sleepers, that I was quite anxious for their safety; but the +animals are cautious, and the people know that, and remain perfectly +quiet. + +My Arab had been absent three weeks, and now returned only for a +very short time; and yet none of his family came out to greet him +except an old woman. Even with her, whom I supposed to be his +mother, he exchanged no kind of welcome. She merely hobbled about +here and there, but gave no help, and might as well have remained +where she was lying, as the others. + +The houses of the Arabs consist of a single, lofty, spacious +apartment, separated into three parts by two partition walls, which +do not extend quite across to the front wall. Each of these +compartments is about thirty feet in length by nine in breadth, and +serves as a dwelling for a family. The light fell through the +common door-way and two holes, which were made in the upper part of +the front wall. A place was set apart for me in one of these +compartments, where I could pass the day. + +My attention was first directed to the nature of the relationships +between the several members of the family. At first this was very +difficult, as it was only towards the very young children that any +kind of attachment or love was shown. They appeared to be a common +property. At last, however, I succeeded in ascertaining that three +related families lived in the house--the patriarch, a married son, +and a married daughter. + +The patriarch was a handsome, powerful old man, sixty years of age, +and the father of my guide, which I had learnt before, as he was one +of our travelling party; he was a terrible scold, and wrangled about +every trifle; the son seldom contradicted him, and gave way to all +that his father wished. The caravan animals belonged, in common, to +both, and were driven by themselves, and by a grandson fifteen years +old, and some servants. When we had reached the house, the old man +did not attend to the animals much, but took his ease and gave his +orders. It was easy to see that he was the head of the family. + +The first impression of the Arab character is that it is cold and +reserved; I never saw either husband and wife, or father and +daughter, exchange a friendly word; they said nothing more than was +positively necessary. They show far more feeling towards children. +They allow them to shout and make as much noise as they like, no one +vexes or contradicts them, and every misconduct is overlooked. But +as soon as a child is grown up, it becomes his duty to put up with +the infirmities of his parents, which he does with respect and +patience. + +To my great astonishment, I heard the children call their mothers +mama or nana, their fathers baba, and their grandmothers ete or eti. + +The women lie lazily about during the whole day, and only in the +evening exert themselves to make bread. I thought their dress +particularly awkward and inconvenient. The sleeves of their shirts +were so wide that they stuck out half a yard from the arms; the +sleeves of the kaftan were still larger. Whenever they do any work, +they are obliged to wind them round their arms, or tie them in a +knot behind. Of course they are always coming undone, and causing +delay and stoppage of their work. In addition to this, the good +folks are not much addicted to cleanliness, and make use of their +sleeves for blowing their noses on, as well as for wiping their +spoons and plates. Their head coverings are not less inconvenient: +they use first a large cloth, twice folded; over this two others are +wound, and a fourth is thrown over the whole. + +Unfortunately, we stayed here two days. I had a great deal to +undergo the first day: all the women of the place flocked round me +to stare at the stranger. They first commenced examining my +clothes, then wanted to take the turban off my head, and were at +last so troublesome, that it was only by force that I could get any +rest. I seized one of them sharply by the arm, and turned her out +of the door so quickly, that she was overcome before she knew what I +was going to do. I signified to the others that I would serve them +the same. Perhaps they thought me stronger than I was, for they +retired immediately. + +I then drew a circle round my place and forbade them to cross it, an +injunction they scrupulously attended to. + +I had now only to deal with the wife of my guide. She laid siege to +me the whole day, coming as near to me as possible, and teasing me +to give her some of my things. I gave her a few trifles, for I had +not much with me, and she then wanted everything. Fortunately her +husband came out of the house just then; I called him and complained +of his wife, and at the same time threatened to leave his house, and +seek shelter somewhere else, well knowing that the Arabs consider +this a great disgrace. He immediately ordered her harshly out, and +I at last had peace. I always succeeded in carrying out my own +will. I found that energy and boldness have a weight with all +people, whether Arabs, Persians, Bedouins, or others. + +Towards evening I saw, to my great delight, a cauldron of mutton set +on the fire. For eight days I had eaten nothing but bread, +cucumber, and some dates; and, therefore, had a great desire for a +hot and more nutritious meal. But my appetite was greatly +diminished when I saw their style of cookery. The old woman (my +guide's mother) threw several handsful of small grain, and a large +quantity of onions, into a pan full of water to soften. In about +half an hour she put her dirty hands into the water, and mixed the +whole together, now and then taking a mouthful, and, after chewing +it, spitting it back again into the pan. She then took a dirty rag, +and strained off the juice, which she poured over the flesh in the +pot. + +I had firmly made up my mind not to touch this food; but when it was +ready it gave out such an agreeable odour, and my hunger was so +great, that I broke my resolution, and remembered how many times I +had eaten of food the preparation of which was not a whit cleaner. +What was so bad in the present instance was that I had seen the +whole process. + +The broth was of a bluish black in colour, and with a rather +strongly acid taste--both the result of the berries. But it agreed +with me very well, and I felt as strong and well as if I had +undergone no hardships during my journey from Baghdad. + +I hoped soon to have had a similar dainty meal, but the Arab does +not live so extravagantly; I was obliged to remain satisfied with +bread and some cucumbers, without salt, oil, or vinegar. + +26th June. We left the village and passed Kerku. At sunrise, we +ascended a small hill, from the summit of which I was astonished by +a beautiful prospect: a majestic lofty chain of mountains extended +along an enormous valley, and formed the boundary between Kurdistan +and Mesopotamia. + +In this valley there were the most beautiful flowers, mallows, +chrysanthemums, and thistly plants. Among the latter, there was one +which frequently occurs in Germany, but not in such richness and +magnificence. In many places these thistles cover large spaces of +ground. The country people cut them down, and burn them instead of +wood, which is here a great luxury, as there are no trees. We saw, +today, some herds of gazelles, which ran leaping past us. + +On the 27th of June we made our encampment near the miserable little +town Attum-Kobri. Before reaching it, we crossed the river Sab +(called by the natives Altum-Su, golden water), by two old Roman +bridges. I saw several similar bridges in Syria. In both instances +they were in good preservation, and will apparently long remain as +evidences of the Roman power. Their wide and lofty arches rested +upon massive pillars, and the whole was constructed of large square +blocks of stone; the ascent of bridges of this kind is so steep that +the animals are obliged to scramble up like cats. + +On the 28th of June we reached the town of Erbil (formerly Arbela), +where, to my great chagrin, we remained until the evening of the +following day. This little town, which is fortified, is situated +upon an isolated hill in the centre of a valley. We encamped, +fortunately, near some houses outside the town, at the foot of the +hill. I found a hut, which was tenanted by some men, two donkeys, +and a number of fowls. The mistress, for a small acknowledgment, +provided me a little place, which at least sheltered me from the +burning heat of the sun. Beyond that, I had not the slightest +convenience. As this hut, in comparison with the others, was a +complete palace, the whole of the neighbours were constantly +collected here. From early in the morning till late in the evening, +when it is the custom to recline upon the terraces, or before the +huts, there was always a large party; one came to gossip, others +brought meal with them, and kneaded their bread meanwhile, so as not +to miss the conversation. In the background, the children were +being washed and freed from vermin, the asses were braying, and the +fowls covering everything with dirt. These, altogether, made the +stay in this place more unbearable than even hunger and thirst. +Still, I must say, to the credit of these people, that they behaved +with the greatest propriety towards me, although not only women, but +a great number of men of the poorest and lowest class, were coming +backwards and forwards continually; even the women here left me in +quiet. + +In the evening, some mutton was cooked in a vessel which just before +was full of dirty linen steeped in water. This was emptied out, +and, without cleaning the pot, it was used to prepare the food in +the same manner as at the house of my guide. + +On the 30th of June we halted at the village of Sab. We here +crossed the great river Sab by means of rafts, the mode of +constructing which is certainly very ancient. They consist of +leathern bottles, filled with air, fastened together with poles, and +covered with planks, reeds, and rushes. Our raft had twenty-eight +wind-bags, was seven feet broad, nearly as long, and carried two +horse-loads and six men. As our caravan numbered thirty-two loaded +animals, the crossing of the river occupied half a day. Four or +five of the animals were tied together and drawn over by a man +seated across an air-bag. The weaker animals, such as the donkeys, +had a bag half filled with air tied on their backs. + +The night of the 30th of June, the last of our journey, was one of +the most wearisome: we travelled eleven hours. About half-way, we +came to the river Hasar, called Gaumil by the Greeks, and made +remarkable by the passage of Alexander the Great. It was broad, but +not deep, and we therefore rode through. The chain of mountains +still continued at the side at some considerable distance, and here +and there rose low, sterile hills, or head-lands. The total absence +of trees in this part of Mesopotamia is striking: during the last +five days I did not see a single one. It is, therefore, easy to +imagine that there are many people here who have never seen such a +thing. There were spaces of twenty miles in extent, upon which not +a single branch was to be seen. However, it is fortunate that there +is no scarcity of water; every day we came once or twice to rivers +of various sizes. + +The town of Mosul did not become visible until we were within about +five miles. It is situated upon a slight elevation in a very +extensive valley, on the west bank of the Tigris, which is already +much narrower here than near Baghdad. We arrived about 7 o'clock in +the morning. + +I was fresh and active, although during these fifteen days I had +only twice had a hot meal--the ink-coloured lamb soup at Kerku and +Ervil; although I had been obliged to remain day and night in the +same clothes, and had not even an opportunity of once changing my +linen, not to say anything of the terrific heat, the continual +riding, and other fatigues. + +I first dismounted at the caravansary, and then procured a guide to +the English Vice-consul, Mr. Rassam, who had already prepared a room +for me, as he had been previously informed of my coming by a letter +from Major Rawlinson, at Baghdad. + +I first visited the town, which, however, does not present any very +remarkable features. It is surrounded by fortified works, and +contains 25,000 inhabitants, among which there are scarcely twelve +Europeans. The bazaars are extensive, but not in the least degree +handsome; between them lie several coffee-stalls and some chans. I +found the entrances to all the houses narrow, low, and furnished +with strong gates. These gates are relics of former times, when the +people were always in danger from the attacks of enemies. In the +interiors, there are very beautiful court-yards, and lofty, airy +rooms, with handsome entrances and bow-windows. The doors and +window-frames, the stairs and walls of the ground-floor rooms, are +generally made of marble; though the marble which is used for these +purposes is not very fine, yet it still looks better than brick +walls. The quarry lies close to the town. + +Here also the hot part of the day is passed in the sardabs. The +heat is most terrible in the month of July, when the burning simoom +not unfrequently sweeps over the town. During my short stay at +Mosul, several people died very suddenly; these deaths were ascribed +to the heat. Even the sardabs do not shelter people from continual +perspiration, as the temperature rises as high as 97 degrees 25' +Fah. + +The birds also suffer much from the heat: they open their beaks +wide, and stretch their wings out far from their bodies. + +The inhabitants suffer severely in their eyes; but the Aleppo boils +are not so common as in Baghdad, and strangers are not subject to +them. + +I found the heat very oppressive, but in other respects was very +well, especially as regards my appetite: I believe that I could +have eaten every hour of the day. Probably this was in consequence +of the hard diet which I had been obliged to endure on my journey. + +The principal thing worth seeing at Mosul is the palace, about half +a mile from the town. It consists of several buildings and gardens, +surrounded with walls which it is possible to see over, as they lie +lower than the town. It presents a very good appearance from a +distance, but loses on nearer approach. In the gardens stand +beautiful groups of trees, which are the more valuable as they are +the only ones in the whole neighbourhood. + +During my stay at Mosul, a large number of Turkish troops marched +through. The Pasha rode out a short distance to receive them, and +then returned to the town at the head of the foot regiments. The +cavalry remained behind, and encamped in tents along the banks of +the Tigris. I found these troops incomparably better clothed and +equipped than those which I had seen, in 1842, at Constantinople. +Their uniform consisted of white trousers, blue cloth spencers, with +red facings, good shoes, and fez. + +As soon as I was in some degree recovered from the fatigue of my +late journey, I requested my amiable host to furnish me with a +servant who should conduct me to the ruins of Nineveh; but instead +of a servant, the sister of Mrs. Rassam and a Mr. Ross accompanied +me. One morning we visited the nearest ruins on the other side of +the Tigris, at the village Nebbi Yunus opposite the town; and, on +another day, those called Tel-Nimroud, which are situated at a +greater distance, about eighteen miles down the river. + +According to Strabo, Nineveh was still larger than Babylon. He +represents it as having been the largest city in the world. The +journey round it occupied three days. The walls were a hundred feet +high, broad enough for three chariots abreast, and defended by +fifteen hundred towers. The same authority states that the Assyrian +king Ninus was the founder, about 2,200 years before the birth of +Christ. + +The whole is now covered with earth, and it is only when the +peasants are ploughing, that fragments of brick or marble are here +and there turned up. Long ranges of mounds, more or less high, +extending over the immeasurable plain on the left bank of the +Tigris, are known to cover the remains of this town. + +In the year 1846, the Trustees of the British Museum sent the +erudite antiquarian, Mr. Layard, to undertake the excavations. It +was the first attempt that had ever been made, and was very +successful. {268} + +Several excavations were made in the hills near Nebbi Yunus, and +apartments were soon reached whose walls were covered with marble +slabs wrought in relief. These represented kings with crowns and +jewels, deities with large wings, warriors with arms and shields, +the storming of fortifications, triumphal processions, and hunting +parties, etc. They were unfortunately deficient in correct drawing, +proportions, or perspective; the mounds and fortifications were +scarcely three times as high as the besiegers; the fields reached to +the clouds; the trees and lotus flowers could scarcely be +distinguished from each other; and the heads of men and animals were +all alike, and only in profile. On many of the walls were found +those wedge-shaped characters, or letters, which constitute what are +called cuneiform inscriptions, and are found only on Persian and +Babylonian monuments. + +Among all the rooms and apartments which were brought to light, +there was only one in which the walls were covered with fine cement +and painted; but, notwithstanding the greatest care, it was not +possible to preserve this wall. When it came in contact with the +air, the cement cracked and fell off. The marble also is partially +converted into lime, or otherwise injured, in consequence of the +terrible conflagration which laid the city in ruins. The bricks +fall to pieces when they are dug out. + +From the number of handsome apartments, the abundance of marble, and +the paintings and inscriptions upon it, the inference is drawn that +this spot contains the ruins of a royal palace. + +A considerable quantity of marble slabs, with reliefs and cuneiform +inscriptions, were carefully detached from the walls and sent to +England. When I was at Bassora, a whole cargo of similar remains +lay near the Tigris, and among others a sphynx. + +On our return we visited the village Nebbi Yunus, which is situated +on a slight eminence near the ruins. It is remarkable only on +account of a small mosque, which contains the ashes of the prophet +Jonas, and to which thousands of devotees make annual pilgrimages. + +During this excursion we passed a number of fields, in which the +people were engaged in separating the corn from the straw in a very +peculiar manner. For this purpose, a machine was employed, +consisting of two wooden tubs, between which was fastened a roller, +with from eight to twelve long, broad, and blunt knives or hatchets. +This was drawn by two horses or oxen over the bundles of corn laid +on the ground, until the whole of the corn was separated from the +straw. It was then thrown up into the air by means of shovels, so +that the chaff might be separated from the grain by the wind. + +We finally visited the sulphur springs, which lie close to the walls +of Mosul. They are not warm, but appear to contain a large quantity +of sulphur, as the smell is apparent at a considerable distance. +These springs rise in natural basins, which are surrounded by walls +eight feet in height. Every one is allowed to bathe there without +any charge, for people are not so niggardly and sparing of nature's +gifts as in Europe. Certain hours are set apart for women, and +others for the men. + +On the following day we rode to the Mosque Elkosch, near the town. +Noah's son Shem has found a resting-place here. We were not allowed +to enter this mosque, but certainly did not lose much by that, as +all these monuments are alike, and are not remarkable either for +architecture or ornament. + +The Nineveh excavations are carried on most extensively at Tel- +Timroud, a district where the mounds of earth are the most numerous. +Tel-Nimroud is situated about eighteen miles from Mosul down the +Tigris. + +We took our seats one moonlight evening upon a raft, and glided down +between the dull banks of the Tigris. After seven hours, we landed, +about 1 o'clock in the morning, at a poor village, bearing the high +sounding name Nimroud. Some of the inhabitants, who were sleeping +before their huts, made us a fire and some coffee, and we then laid +down till daybreak upon some rugs we had brought with us. + +At daybreak we took horses (of which there are plenty in every +village), and rode to the excavations, about a mile from Nimroud. +We found here a great number of places which had been dug up, or +rather, uncovered mounds of earth, but not, as at Herculaneum, whole +houses, streets, squares, indeed, half a town. Nothing beyond +separate rooms has been brought to light here, or at the utmost, +three or four adjoining ones, the exterior walls of which are not, +in any case, separated from the earth, and have neither windows nor +doors visible. + +The objects which have been discovered exactly resemble those in the +neighbourhood of Mosul, but occur in greater numbers. Besides +these, I saw several idols and sphynxes in stone. The former +represented animals with human heads; their size was gigantic--about +that of an elephant. Four of these statues have been found, two of +which were, however, considerably damaged. The others were not +indeed in very good preservation, although sufficiently so to show +that the sculptors did not particularly excel in their profession. +The sphynxes were small, and had unfortunately suffered more damage +than the bulls. + +Shortly before my arrival, an obelisk of inconsiderable height, a +small and uninjured sphynx, together with other remains, had been +sent to England. + +The excavations near Tel-Nimroud have been discontinued about a +year, and Mr. Layard has been recalled to London. An order was +afterwards given to cover in the places which had been dug open, as +the wandering Arabs had begun to do a great deal of injury. When I +visited the spot, some places were already covered in, but the +greater part remained open. + +The excavations near Nebbi Yunus are still being carried on. An +annual grant is made by the British government for this purpose. + +The English resident at Baghdad, Major Rawlinson, had made himself +perfectly master of the cuneiform character. He reads the +inscriptions with ease, and many of the translations are the results +of his labours. + +We returned to Mosul on horseback in five hours and a half. The +power of endurance of the Arabian horses is almost incredible. They +were allowed only a quarter of an hour's rest in Mosul, where they +had nothing but water, and then travelled the eighteen miles back +again during the hottest part of the day. Mr. Ross told me that +even this was not equal to the work done by the post horses: the +stations for these are from forty-eight to seventy-two miles distant +from each other. It is possible to travel from Mosul by Tokat to +Constantinople in this way. The best Arabian horses are found round +Baghdad and Mosul. + +An agent of the Queen of Spain had just purchased a stud of twelve +magnificent horses (eight mares and four stallions), the dearest of +which had cost on the spot 150 pounds sterling. They stood in Mr. +Rassam's stable. Their handsome, long, slender heads, their +sparkling eyes, slight bodies, and their small delicately formed +feet, would have filled any admirer of horses with delight. + + +I could now venture, not, indeed, without considerable risk, +although with the possibility of some insult, upon the desired +journey into Persia. I sought a caravan to Tebris. Unfortunately, +I could not find one which went direct there, and I was, therefore, +compelled to make this journey in separate stages, a circumstance +which was so much the worse for me, as I was told that I should not +find any Europeans on the way. + +Nevertheless I took the chance. Mr. Rassam arranged for me the +journey as far as Ravandus, and furnished me with a letter of +recommendation to one of the natives there. I wrote out a small +lexicon of Arabian and Persian words, and took leave of this +hospitable family at sunset, on the 8th of July. I started on this +journey with some feelings of anxiety, and scarcely dared to hope +for a fortunate termination. On that account I sent my papers and +manuscripts from here to Europe, so that in case I was robbed or +murdered my diary would at least come into the hands of my sons. +{270} + + + +CHAPTER XX. PERSIA. + + + +JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN TO RAVANDUS--ARRIVAL AT AND STAY IN RAVANDUS-- +A KURDISH FAMILY--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY--SAUH-BULAK--OROMIA-- +AMERICAN MISSIONARIES--KUTSCHIE--THREE GENEROUS ROBBERS--PERSIAN +CHANS AND ENGLISH BUNGALOWS--ARRIVAL AT TEBRIS. + +On the 8th of July the caravan guide called for me in the evening. +His appearance was so unfavourable that I should scarcely have +ventured to travel a mile with him had I not been assured that he +was a man well known in the place. His dress consisted of rags and +tatters, and his countenance resembled that of a robber. Ali, that +was his name, told me that the travellers and goods had already gone +on and were encamped in the chan near Nebbi-Yunus, where they were +to pass the night. The journey was to be commenced before sunrise. +I found three men and some pack-horses; the men (Kurds) were no +better in appearance than Ali, so that I could not promise myself +much gratification from their society. I took up my quarters for +the night in the dirty court-yard of the chan, but was too much +frightened to sleep well. + +In the morning, to my astonishment, there were no indications of +starting. I asked Ali what was the cause of this, and received as +answer that the travellers were not all assembled yet, and that, as +soon as they were, we should proceed immediately. In the +expectation that this might soon happen, I dared not leave the +miserable shelter to return to Mosul, from which we were only a mile +distant. The whole day was spent in waiting; these people did not +come until evening. There were five of them: one, who appeared to +be a wealthy man, with his two servants, was returning from a +pilgrimage. We started at last about 10 o'clock at night. After +travelling for four hours we crossed several ranges of hills, which +form the boundaries of Mesopotamia and Kurdistan. We passed several +villages, and reached Secani on the morning of the 10th of July. +Ali did not halt at the village which lies on the pretty river +Kasir, but on the other side of the river near a couple of deserted, +half-ruined huts. I hastened directly into one of the best to make +sure of a good place, where the sun did not come through the sieve- +like roof, which I fortunately found but the pilgrim, who hobbled in +directly after me, was inclined to dispute its possession. I threw +my mantle down, and seating myself upon it, did not move from the +place, well knowing that a Mussulman never uses force towards a +woman, not even towards a Christian one. And so it turned out; he +left me in my place and went grumbling away. One of the pedlars +behaved himself in a very different manner: when he saw that I had +nothing for my meal but dry bread, while he had cucumbers and sweet +melons, he gave me a cucumber and a melon, for which he would not +take any money. The pilgrim also ate nothing else, although he had +only to send one of his servants to the village to procure either +fowls or eggs, etc. The frugality of these people is really +astonishing. + +About 6 in the evening we again proceeded on our journey, and for +the first three hours went continually up-hill. The ground was +waste and covered with boulders, which were full of shallow holes, +and resembled old lava. + +Towards 11 at night we entered an extensive and beautiful valley, +upon which the moon threw a brilliant light. We purposed halting +here, and not continuing our journey further during the night, as +our caravan was small, and Kurdistan bears a very bad name. The +road led over fields of stubble near to stacks of corn. Suddenly +half a dozen powerful fellows sprung out from behind, armed with +stout cudgels, and seizing our horses' reins, raised their sticks, +and shouted at us terribly. I felt certain that we had fallen into +the hands of a band of robbers, and was glad to think that I had +left my treasures which I had collected at Babylon and Nineveh, +together with my papers, at Mosul; my other effects might have been +easily replaced. During the time this was passing in my mind, one +of our party had sprung from his horse and seized one of the men by +the breast, when he held a loaded pistol before his face and +threatened to shoot him. This had an immediate effect; the +waylayers relinquished their hold, and soon entered into a peaceful +conversation with us; and at last, indeed, showed us a good place to +encamp, for which, however, they requested a small bachshish, which +was given to them by a general collection. From me, as belonging to +the female sex, they required nothing. We passed the night here, +though not without keeping guard. + +11th July. About 4 o'clock we were again upon the road, and rode +six hours, when we came to the village of Selik. We passed through +several villages, which, however, had a very miserable appearance. +The huts were built of reeds and straw; the slightest gust of wind +would have been sufficient to have blown them over. The dress of +the people approaches in character to the Oriental; all were very +scantily, dirtily, and raggedly clothed. + +Near Selik I was surprised by the sight of a fig-tree and another +large tree. In this country trees are rare. The mountains +surrounding us were naked and barren, and in the valleys there grew +at most some wild artichokes or beautiful thistles and +chrysanthemums. + +The noble pilgrim took upon himself to point out my place under the +large tree, where the whole party were encamped. I gave him no +reply, and took possession of one of the fig-trees. Ali, who was +far better than he looked, brought me a jug of buttermilk, and +altogether today passed off tolerably pleasantly. + +Several women from the village visited me and begged for money, but +I gave them none, as I knew from experience that I should be +attacked by all if I gave to one. I once gave a child a little +ring, and not only the other children, but their mothers and +grandmothers, crowded round me. It cost me some trouble to keep +them from forcibly emptying my pockets. Since that time I was more +cautious. One of the women here changed her begging manner into one +so threatening, that I was heartily glad at not being alone with +her. + +We left this village at 4 in the afternoon. The pilgrim separated +from us, and the caravan then consisted of only five men. In about +an hour and a half we reached an eminence from which we obtained a +view of an extensive and well cultivated hill country. The land in +Kurdistan is without comparison better than in Mesopotamia, and the +country is consequently better inhabited; we were, therefore +continually passing through different villages. + +Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for +fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds: a brisk +stream murmured at our side, the heat of the day was now succeeded +by the evening shadows, and, at this moment we had nothing to wish +for. This good fortune, however, did not last long; one of the +pedlars was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to stop. He +nearly fell off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him +with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we +had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he +fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground +and followed his example. + +12th July. This morning our patient was well again; a doubly +fortunate circumstance, as we had to pass a terribly rocky and stony +road. We were obliged to scramble up and down the mountainous side +of a valley, as the valley itself was completely occupied by the +irregular course of the river Badin, which wound in a serpentine +direction from side to side. Pomegranates and oleanders grew in the +valley, wild vines twined themselves round the shrubs and trees, and +larches covered the slopes of the hills. + +After a difficult and dangerous ride of six hours, we came to a ford +of the river Badin. Our raft turned out to be so small that it +would carry only two men, and very little baggage; and we were, in +consequence, four hours in crossing. We stayed for the night not +far from the ferry of Vakani. + +13th July. The road still continued bad; we had to ascend an +immense pile of mountains. Far and wide, nothing was to be seen but +rock and stone, although, to my astonishment, I observed that in +many places the stones had been gathered on one side, and every +little spot of earth made use of. A few dwarf ash-trees stood here +and there. The whole has the character of the country near Trieste. + +Although there were no villages on the road, there appeared to be +some near, for on many of the heights I observed large burial- +places, especially on those which are overshadowed by ash-trees. It +is the custom throughout Kurdistan to establish the burial-places on +high situations. + +We did not travel more than seven hours today, and halted in the +valley of Halifan. This little valley has an uncommonly romantic +situation; it is surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, which +rise with a gentle slope on one side, and on the other are steep and +precipitous. The whole valley was covered with a rich vegetation; +the stubble-fields were interspersed with tobacco and rice +plantations, and meadows. Poplar-trees surrounded the village, +which was pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill, and a stream of +crystalline clearness rushed forcibly out of a mountain chasm, and +flowed calmly and still through this delightful valley. Towards +evening, numerous herds of cows, sheep, and goats came from the +mountain-slopes towards the village. + +We encamped at some distance from the village; I could not procure +any relish for my dry bread, and had no other bed than the hard +ground of a stubble-field. Nevertheless I should include this +evening among the most agreeable; the scenery round compensated me +sufficiently for the want of every other enjoyment. + +14th July. Ali allowed us to rest only half the night; at 2 o'clock +we were again mounted. A few hundred paces from our resting-place +was the entrance of a stupendous mountain-pass. The space between +the sides of the rocks afforded only sufficient room for the stream +and a narrow pathway. Fortunately the moon shone out brilliantly, +otherwise it would have been scarcely possible for the most +practised animal to ascend the narrow and extremely dangerous road +between the fallen masses of rock and rolling stones. Our hardy +animals scrambled like chamois along, over the edges of the steep +precipices, and carried us with safety past the terrible abyss, at +the bottom of which the stream leapt, with a frightful roaring, from +rock to rock. This night-scene was so terrible and impressive that +even my uncultivated companions were involuntarily silent--mute, and +noiseless, we went on our way, nothing breaking the death-like +stillness but the rattling steps of our animals. + +We had proceeded about an hour in this way, when the moon was +suddenly obscured; thick clouds gathered round from all sides, and +the darkness soon became so great that we could scarcely see a few +steps before us. The foremost man continually struck fire, so as to +light up the path somewhat by the sparks. But this did not help us +much, the animals began to slip and stumble. We were compelled to +halt, and stood quiet and motionless, one behind the other, as if +suddenly changed to stone by magic. Life returned again with +daybreak, and we spurred our animals briskly forwards. + +We were in an indescribably beautiful circle of mountains; at our +side lay high cliffs; before and behind, hills and mountains crowded +over each other, and in the far distance an enormous peak, covered +with snow, completed the romantic picture. This mountain-pass is +called Ali-Bag. For three hours and a half we continued going up +hill, without intermission. + +A short distance before reaching the plateau, we observed, in +several places, small spots of blood, of which nobody at first took +much notice, as they might have been caused by a horse or mule that +had injured itself. But shortly we came to a place which was +entirely covered with large blood-spots. This sight filled us with +great horror; we looked round anxiously for the cause of these marks +and perceived two human bodies far down below. One hung scarcely a +hundred feet down on the declivity of the rock, the other had rolled +further on, and was half-buried under a mass of rock. We hastened +from this horrible scene as quickly as we could; it was several days +before I could free myself from the recollection of it. + +All the stones on the plateau were full of holes, as if other stones +had been stuck in. This appearance ceased as we went further up. +In the valley, at the other side of the plateau, there were vines, +which, however, did not rise far above the ground, as they were not +supported in any way. + +Our road continued on through the mountains. We frequently +descended, but again had to cross several heights, and, finally, +came out upon a small elevated plain, which, on both sides, was +bounded by steep declivities. A village of huts, made of branches, +was situated on this plain, and on the summits of two neighbouring +rocks fortified works were erected. + +My travelling companions remained behind here; but Ali went with me +to the town of Ravandus, which only becomes visible from this side +at a very short distance. + +The situation and view of this town is most charming; not indeed +from its beauty, for it is not more remarkable in that respect than +other Turkish towns, but on account of its peculiarity. It is +situated upon a steep, isolated cone, surrounded by mountains. The +houses are built in the form of terraces, one above another, with +flat roofs, which are covered with earth, stamped down hard, so as +to resemble narrow streets, for which they serve to the upper +houses, and it is frequently difficult to tell which is street and +which roof. On many of the terraces, walls, formed of the branches +of trees, are erected, behind which the people sleep. Lower down, +the hill is surrounded by a fortified wall. + +When I first caught hold of this eagle's nest, I feared that I had +not much probability of finding any conveniences for travellers, and +every step further confirmed this opinion. Ravandus was one of the +most miserable towns I ever saw. Ali conducted me over a beggarly +bazaar to a dirty court, which I took for a stable, but was the +chan; and, after I had dismounted, took me into a dark recess, in +which the merchant, to whom I had a letter, sat upon the ground +before his stall. This merchant was the most considerable of his +class in Ravandus. Mr. Mansur, that was the merchant's name, read +over the letter which I had brought, for full a quarter of an hour, +although it only consisted of a few lines, and then greeted me with +a repeated salaam, which means "you are welcome." + +The good man must have concluded that I had not tasted any food +today, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast immediately, +consisting of bread, sheep's cheese, and melons. These were eaten +all together. My hunger was so great that I found this plan +excellent. I ate without ceasing. The conversation, on the +contrary, was not so successful; my host did not understand any +European language, nor I any Asiatic language. We made use of +signs, and I took pains to make him understand that I was desirous +of going on further as soon as possible. He promised to do his +utmost for me, and also explained that he would see to me during my +stay; he was not married, and therefore could not receive me into +his own house, but would take me to one of his relations. + +After breakfast was ended he took me to a house resembling those of +the Arabs at Kerkil, except that the court-yard was very small, and +completely filled with rubbish and puddles. Under the door-way, +four ugly women with half-ragged clothes, were seated upon a dirty +rug, playing with some little children. I was obliged to sit down +with them, and undergo the usual curious examination and staring. +For some time I put up with it, but then left this charming society, +and looked about for a place where I could arrange my toilette a +little. I had not changed my clothes for six days, having been +exposed, at the same time, to a heat which was far greater than that +under the line. I found a dirty and smutty room, which, in addition +to the disgust it excited, made me fear the presence of vermin and +scorpions; of the latter I had a particular dread. I thought at +first that they were to be found in every place, as I had read in +many descriptions of travels that they were innumerable in these +countries. My fear lessened afterwards, as I did not meet with any, +even in the dirtiest places; in ruins, court-yards, or sardabs. +Altogether I only saw two during my whole journey, but I suffered a +great deal from other vermin, which are only to be removed by +burning the clothes and linen. + +I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room, when one +woman after the other came in; the women were followed by the +children, and then by several neighbours, who had heard of the +arrival of an Inglesi; I was worse off here than under the gateway. + +At last, one of the women luckily thought of offering me a bath, and +I accepted the proposal with great joy. Hot water was prepared, and +they made a sign for me to follow them, which I did, and found +myself in the sheep-stall, which, perhaps, had not been cleaned for +years, or indeed as long as it had stood. In this place they pushed +two stones together, upon which I was to stand, and in the presence +of the whole company, who followed me like my shadow, allow myself +to be bathed with water. I made signs to them to go out, as I +wished to perform this office myself; they did indeed leave me, but +as misfortune had it, the stall had no door, and they were all able +to look in just the same. + +I passed four days among these people, the day time in dark +recesses, the evenings and nights upon the terraces. I was obliged, +like my hostess, constantly to squat down on the ground, and when I +wanted to write anything I had to make use of my knees instead of a +table. Every day they told me there was a caravan going away to- +morrow. Alas! they said so only to quiet me, they saw, perhaps, how +disagreeable the stay was to me. The women lounged about the whole +day sleeping or chattering, playing with, or scolding the children. +They preferred going about in dirty rags to mending and washing +them, and they allowed their children to tyrannize over them +completely. + +When the latter wanted anything and did not get it, they threw +themselves on the ground, struck about with their hands and feet, +howling and shrieking until they obtained what they desired. + +They had no fixed meal-times during the day, but the women and +children were constantly eating bread, cucumbers, melons and +buttermilk. In the evenings they bathed very much, and every one +washed their hands, faces, and feet, which ceremony was frequently +repeated three or four times before prayers; but there was a great +want of real devotion: in the middle of the prayers they chattered +right and left. However, there is not much difference with us. + +Notwithstanding all these glaring and gross defects I found these +people very amiable: they willingly permitted themselves to be +taught, admitted their failings, and always allowed me to be right +when I said or explained anything to them. For example, the little +Ascha, a girl seven years of age was very intractable. If she was +denied anything she threw herself on the ground, crying miserably, +rolling about in the filth and dirt, and smearing with her dirty +hands the bread, melons, etc. I endeavoured to make the child +conscious of her misbehaviour, and succeeded beyond all expectation. +I, in fact, imitated her. The child looked at me astounded, upon +which I asked if it had pleased her. She perceived the +offensiveness of her conduct, and I did not often need to imitate +her. It was just the same with regard to cleanliness. She +immediately washed herself carefully, and then came running joyfully +to me showing her hands and face. During the few days I was here +the child became so fond of me that she would not leave my side, and +sought in every way to make friends with me. + +I was not less fortunate with the women; I pointed out their torn +clothes, brought needles, and thread, and taught them how to sew and +mend. They were pleased with this, and I had in a short time a +whole sewing school round me. + +How much good might be done here by any one who knew the language +and had the inclination, only the parents must be taught at the same +time as the children. + +What a fine field is here open to the missionaries if they would +accustom themselves to live among these people, and with kindness +and patience to counteract their failings! As it is, however, they +devote at the utmost only a few hours in the day to them, and make +their converts come to them, instead of visiting them in their own +houses. + +The women and girls in the Asiatic countries receive no education, +those in the towns have little or no employment, and are left to +themselves during the whole day. The men go at sunrise to the +bazaars, where they have their stalls or workshops, the bigger boys +go to school or accompany their fathers, and neither return home +before sunset. There the husband expects to find the carpets spread +out on the terraces, the supper ready, and the nargilly lighted, he +then plays a little with the young children, who, however, during +meal-time are obliged to keep away with their mothers. The women in +the villages have more liberty and amusement, as they generally take +part in the housekeeping. It is said that the people in the country +here are, as among ourselves, more moral than in the towns. + +The dress worn by the richer Kurds is the Oriental, that of the +common people differs slightly from it. The men wear wide linen +trousers, over them a shirt reaching to the hips, and fastened round +the waist by a girdle. They frequently draw on, over the shirt, a +jacket without sleeves, made of coarse brown woollen stuff, which is +properly cut into strips of a hand's breath, and joined together by +broad seams. Others wear trousers of brown stuff instead of white +linen; they are, however, extremely ugly, as they are really nothing +more than a wide shapeless sack with two holes, through which the +feet are put. The coverings for the feet are either enormous shoes +of coarsely woven white sheeps' wool, ornamented with three tassels, +or short, very wide boots of red or yellow leather, reaching only +just above the ankle and armed with large plates an inch thick. The +head-dress is a turban. + +The women wear long wide trousers, blue shirts, which frequently +reach half a yard over the feet, and are kept up by means of a +girdle; a large blue mantle hangs from the back of the neck, +reaching down to the calves. They wear the same kind of plated +boots as the men. On their heads they wear either black kerchiefs +wound in the manner of a turban, or a red fez, the top of which is +very broad, and covered with silver coins arranged in the form of a +cross. A coloured silk kerchief is wound round the fez, and a +wreath made of short black silk fringe is fastened on the top. This +wreath looks like a handsome rich fur-trimming, and is so arranged +that it forms a coronet, leaving the forehead exposed. The hair +falls in numerous thin tresses over the shoulders, and a heavy +silver chain hangs down behind from the turban. It is impossible to +imagine a head dress that looks better than this. + +Neither women or girls cover their faces, and I saw here several +very beautiful girls with truly noble features. The colour of the +skin is rather brown, the eyebrows and lashes were black, and the +hair dyed reddish-brown with henna. Among the lower orders small +nose rings are sometimes worn here. + +Mr. Mansur furnished me with a very good table in the morning, I had +buttermilk, bread, cucumber, and on one occasion dates roasted in +butter, which, however, was not very palatable; in the evening +mutton and rice, or a quodlibet of rice, barley, maize, cucumber, +onions and minced meat. I found it all very good as I was healthy, +and had a good appetite. The water and buttermilk are taken very +cold, and a piece of ice is always put into them. Ice is to be met +with in abundance not only in the towns, but also in every village. +It is brought from the mountains in the neighbourhood, the people +eat large pieces of it with great relish. + +In spite of the endeavours of Mr. Mansur and his relations to render +my stay bearable, or perhaps, indeed, pleasant, according to their +ideas, I was agreeably surprised when Ali came one morning bringing +the news that he had met with a small freight to Sauh-Bulak (seventy +miles) a place which laid on my road. That same evening I went to +the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July, was on the road +before sunrise. + +Mr. Mansur was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave me a +letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also provided me with +bread for the journey, some melons, cucumbers, and a small bottle of +sour milk. The latter was particularly acceptable to me, and I +would advise every traveller to remember this nourishing and +refreshing drink. + +Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part +filters through, and the solid part can be taken out with a spoon, +and mixed with water as desired. In the hot season, indeed, it +dries into cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes +very well, and in four or five days you come to places where the +supply may be renewed. + +On the first day we passed continually through narrow valleys +between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we +were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pass from +one valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as +much as was possible. We halted at Tschomarichen. + +19th July. The road and country was the same as those of yesterday, +except that we had more hilly ground to ascend. We very nearly +reached the height of the first snow region. + +Towards evening, we came to Raid, a miserable place with a half- +ruined citadel. Scarcely had we encamped, when several well-armed +soldiers, headed by an officer, made their appearance. They spoke +for some time with Ali, and at last the officer introduced himself +to me, took his place at my side, showed me a written paper, and +made several signs. As far as I could understand, he meant to say +that I was now in Persia, and that he wanted to see my passport. +However, I did not wish to take it out of my portmanteau in the +presence of the whole of the villagers, who were already assembled +round me, and, therefore, explained to him that I did not understand +him. With this assurance he left me, saying to Ali: "What shall I +do with her? She does not understand me, and may go on further." +{279} I do not think that I should have been so leniently dealt +with in any European state! + +In almost every village, a great part of the people immediately +assembled round me. The reader may imagine what a crowd had +gathered together during this discussion. To be continually stared +at in this way was one of the greatest inconveniences of my journey. +Sometimes I quite lost my patience, when the women and children +pressed round me, handling my clothes and head. Although quite +alone among them, I gave them several slight blows with my riding- +whip. This always had the desired effect; the people either went +away altogether or drew back in a ring. But here, a boy about +sixteen was inclined to punish my boldness. As usual, I went to the +river to fill my leathern flask, to wash my hands and face, and +bathe my feet. This boy slipped after me, picked up a stone, and +threatened to throw it at me. I dare not, of course, evince any +fear; and I went, therefore, quite composedly into the river. The +stone came flying, although I observed, by the way in which it was +thrown, that he was more desirous of frightening than hitting me; it +was not thrown with force, and fell several feet away. After +throwing a second and third, he went away; perhaps because he saw +that I did not heed him. + +20th July. Immediately outside Raid, we had to ascend a rather +considerable mountain by a bad and dangerous road, and then came out +upon an extensive elevated plain. We left the high mountains +further behind, the headlands were covered with short grass, but +there was again a great deficiency of trees. We met great numbers +of herds of goats and sheep. The latter were very large, with thick +wool and fat tails; the wool is said to be particularly good and +fine. + +My apprehensions on this journey were not quite groundless, as it +was seldom that a day passed in undisturbed quiet. Today, for +instance, a circumstance occurred which frightened me not a little: +our caravan consisted of six men and fourteen pack animals; we were +quietly pursuing our way, when suddenly a troop of mounted men came +dashing down upon us at full gallop. There were seven well-armed, +and five unarmed. The former carried lances, sabres, daggers, +knives, pistols, and shields; they were dressed like the common +people, with the exception of the turban, which was wound round with +a simple Persian shawl. I thought they had been robbers. They +stopped and surrounded us, and then inquired where we came from, +where we were going to, and what kind of goods we carried? When +they had received an explanation, they allowed us to go on. At +first I could not understand the meaning of the proceeding at all; +but, as we were stopped several times in the course of the day in a +similar manner, I concluded that these men were soldiers on duty. + +We remained at Coromaduda over night. + +21st July. The roads and prospects very similar to those of +yesterday. We were again stopped by a troop of soldiers, and this +time the affair seemed likely to be of more consequence. Ali must +have made some incorrect statements. They took possession of both +of his pack animals, threw their loads down on the ground, and one +of the soldiers was ordered to lead them away. Poor Ali begged and +entreated most pitifully. He pointed to me, and said that +everything belonged to me, and requested that they should have some +compassion with me as a helpless woman. The soldier turned to me +and asked if it was true. I did not think it advisable to give +myself out as their owner, and therefore appeared not to understand +him, but assumed an air of great concern and trouble. Ali, indeed, +began to cry. Our position would have been most desperate; for, +what could we have done with the goods in this barren uninhabited +district without our animals. At last, however, the leader of the +party relented, sent after the animals, and returned them to us. + +Late in the evening, we reached the little town of Sauh-Bulak. As +it was not fortified, we could still enter; however, the chans and +bazaars were all closed, and we had much trouble to get the people +of one of the chans to receive us. It was very spacious and +handsome; in the centre was a basin of water, and round it small +merchants' stalls and several niches for sleeping. The people--all +men--were mostly retired to rest; only a few remained at their +devotions. Their astonishment may be imagined when they saw a woman +enter with a guide. It was too late to give my letter today, and I +therefore seated myself composedly against the luggage, in the +belief that I should have to pass the night so; but a Persian came +to me and pointed out a niche to sleep in, carried my luggage there, +and, after a little while, brought me some bread and water. The +kindness of this man was the more admirable, as it is known how much +the Mahomedans hate the Christians. May God reward him for it. I +was truly in want of this refreshment. + +22nd July. Today I presented my letter, and the Persian merchant +received me with a welcome. He conducted me to a Christian family, +and promised to make arrangements for the continuation of my journey +as soon as possible. In this instance, also, the conversation was +carried on more by the means of signs than words. + +There were twenty Christian families in this town, who are under the +care of a French missionary and have a very pretty church. I looked +forward with pleasure to conversing again in a language with which I +was familiar, but learnt that the missionary was on a journey, so +that I was not better off than at Ravandus, as the people with whom +I lived spoke only Persian. + +The man, whose trade was that of a carpenter, had a wife, six +children, and an apprentice. They all lived in the same room, in +which they gave me a place with great readiness. The whole family +were uncommonly good and obliging towards me, were very open- +hearted, and if I bought fruit, eggs, or anything of the kind, and +offered them any, they accepted it with great modesty. But it was +not only towards myself that they were so kind, but also towards +others; no beggar went away from their threshold unrelieved; and yet +this family was terrible, and made my stay a complete purgatory. +The mother, a very stupid scolding woman, bawled and beat her +children the whole day. Ten minutes did not pass without her +dragging her children about by the hair, or kicking and thumping +them. The children were not slow in returning it; and, besides +that, fought among themselves; so that I had not a moment's quiet in +my corner, and was not unfrequently in danger of coming in for my +share, for they amused themselves by spitting and throwing large +blocks of wood at each other's heads. The eldest son several times +throttled his mother in such a way that she became black and blue in +the face. I always endeavoured, indeed, to establish peace; but it +was very seldom that I succeeded, as I was unfortunately not +sufficient master of the language to make them understand the +impropriety of their conduct. + +It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there was +any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight. + +I never met with such conduct among any people--even the poorest or +lowest classes of the so-called heathens or unbelievers; I never saw +their children attempt to strike their parents. When I left Sauh- +Bulak, I wrote a letter for the missionary, in which I directed his +attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to +counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist +merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church. + +My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus. I daily +entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if +the journey should be attended with some danger. He shook his head +and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I +travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded. + +I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer. +I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my +mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all +dangers or other circumstances. I knew that I should find American +missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety +about proceeding on further. + +The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild- +looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide. I was obliged, +in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay +four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be +able to get away. The bargain was made, and the guide pledged +himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in +three days. I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained +the other half until we came to our journey's end, so as to be able +to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement. + +I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded, +and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and +walked about outside the town. + +This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of +hills. Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never +annoyed out of doors. The bazaars are less beggarly than those at +Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable. I found the appearance +of the common people very repulsive. Tall and strongly built, with +marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression +of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or +murderers. + +In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind +not to sell my life cheaply. + +28th July. Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not +start until towards mid-day. I travelled on with my guide through +desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily +when any one met us. However, thank God, there were no adventures +to go through. We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous +swarms of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds. +They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large +wings of a red or blue colour. All the plants and grass in the +district were eaten away. I was told that the natives catch these +grasshoppers and dry and eat them. Unluckily I never saw any such +dish. + +After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and +inhabited valley. Today's journey seemed to promise a favourable +termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and +frequently passed villages. Some peasants were still working here +and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me: they +wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted +with their ragged dress. + +We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur. +If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of +turtle. I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even +in the fields, and had only to pick them up. But then to hunt for +wood, make a fire, and cook! No; I preferred eating a crust of +bread and a cucumber in quiet. + +29th July. This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of +Mahomed-Schar. To my astonishment my driver made preparations for +stopping here. I urged him to continue the journey, but he +explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan, +as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us. At the +same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining +stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few +hours a caravan was going our way. The whole day passed, and the +caravan did not appear. I thought that my guide was deceiving me; +and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my +mantle on the ground for me to sleep. It was now necessary that I +should make a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not +be treated like a child, and remain here as long as he thought fit. +Unfortunately I could not scold him in words, but I picked up the +mantle and threw it at his feet, and explained to him that I would +keep the remainder of the fare if he did not bring me to Oromia to- +morrow on the third day. I then turned my back to him (one of the +greatest slights), seated myself on the ground, and, resting my head +in my hands, gave myself up to the most melancholy reflections. +What should I have done here if my guide had left me, or had thought +fit to remain until a caravan happened to pass by. + +During my dispute with the guide, some women had come up from the +village. They brought me some milk and some hot food, seated +themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about. + +I endeavoured to explain the whole affair. They understood me and +took my part. They were vexed with my guide, and endeavoured to +console me. They did not stir from me, and pressed me so heartily +to partake of their food, that I found myself compelled to eat some. +It consisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up +together. Notwithstanding my trouble, I enjoyed it very much. When +I offered the good people a trifle for this meal they would not take +it. They seemed gratified that I was more at ease. + +30th July. About 1 o'clock at night my guide began to stir himself, +saddled my horse, and called me to mount. Still I was at a loss to +understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan. Could +he mean to take his revenge on me? Why did he travel at night +through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for? I did +not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation, +and did not wish to say anything more to the fellow about not +keeping his contract, so I was obliged to go--and I did go. + +With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide, who was +inclined to ride behind, to go on in front. I had no mind to be +attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols. I +listened to every sound, watched every movement of my guide, even +the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me; however, I did not +turn back. + +After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large +caravan train, which was guarded by half a dozen well-armed +peasants. It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and +that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan. +Nothing caused me more surprise on this occasion, than the indolence +of these people. As they are accustomed to travel in the night +during the hot season, they also continue the custom at other times, +and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger +would be much less during the day. + +After some hours we came to the Lake Oromia, which henceforth +continued on our right side; on the left lay barren hills, ravines +and mountains, extending for some miles, forming a most dreaded +place. Morning brought us into another beautiful fruitful valley, +studded with villages, the sight of which gave me courage to leave +the caravan, and hasten on. + +The Lake Oromia, from which the town takes its name, is more than +sixty miles long, and in many places more than thirty wide. It +appears closely surrounded by lofty mountains, although considerable +levels intervene. Its water contains so much salt, that neither +fish nor mollusca can live in it. It is a second Dead Sea--it is +said that a human body cannot sink in it. Large patches of the +shore are covered with thick, white saline incrustations, so that +the people have only to separate the salt they want from the ground. +Although the lake, and the country round it are very beautiful, they +do not present a very attractive prospect, as the surface of the +lake is not enlivened by any boats. + +Since I had left the sandy deserts round Baghdad, I had not seen any +camels, and thought that I should not see this animal again, as I +was travelling northwards. To my astonishment, we met several +trains of camels, and I learnt afterwards, that these animals were +used as beasts of burden by the Kurds, as well as the Arabs. This +is a proof that they are able to bear a colder climate; for in +winter the snow drifts to a depth of several feet in the valleys. +The camels in these districts are somewhat more robust, their feet +are thicker, their hair closer and longer, their necks longer, and +not nearly so slender, and their colour darker. I did not see any +light-coloured ones. + +The Kurds of the valleys employ beasts of burden for carrying their +crops, as well as waggons, which are however very simple and clumsy. +The body is formed of several long thin stems of trees bound +together; the axles of shorter stems, with disks of thick board for +wheels, of which each waggon has generally only two. Four oxen are +yoked to these, each pair being led by a guide, who sits very oddly +on the shaft between the yoke, with his back towards them. + +Late in the evening, we reached Oromia safely, after a hard ride of +more than sixteen hours. I had no letters to any of the +missionaries, and with the exception of Mr. Wright, they were all +absent. They lived with their wives and children in the country. +However, Mr. Wright received me with true Christian friendship, and +after many disagreeable days I again found comfort. + +The first evening I laughed heartily when Mr. Wright told me in what +manner the servant had informed him of my arrival. As I did not +know enough of Persian to be able to tell the servant to announce +me, I merely pointed to the stairs. He understood this, and went up +to his master, saying that there was a woman below who could not +speak any language. Afterwards I asked a servant for a glass of +water, in English; he rushed up stairs as if he had been possessed, +not, as I thought, to get what I wanted, but to tell his master that +I spoke English. + +Mr. Wright acquainted the other missionaries of my presence, and +they were so good as to come and visit me. They also invited me to +spend a few days with them in the country, but I accepted their +friendly invitation for one day only, as I had already lost so much +time on the road. They all advised me not to go any further alone; +although they admitted that the most dangerous part of the journey +was past, and recommended me to take with me some armed peasants +when passing the mountains near Kutschie. + +Mr. Wright was so good as to look out for a courageous and trusty +guide. I paid double fare, in order to reach Tebris in four, +instead of six days. In order to make the guide think that I was a +poor pilgrim, I gave Mr. Wright the half of the agreed price, and +begged him to pay it instead of myself, and also to say that he +would be paid the other half by Mr. Stevens, the English consul. + +I made as good use as possible of the day which I passed at Oromia. +In the morning I visited the town, and afterwards I visited, with +Mrs. Wright, several rich and poor families, in order to observe +their mode of life. + +The town contains 22,000 inhabitants, is surrounded by walls, but +not closed by gates; it is possible to pass in and out at any hour +of the night. It is built like all Turkish towns, with this +exception--that the streets are rather broad, and kept clean. +Outside the town are numerous large fruit and vegetable gardens, +which are surrounded by very high walls; pretty dwelling-houses +stand in the centre of the gardens. + +The women here go closely veiled. They cover over their heads and +breast with a white kerchief, in which thick impenetrable network is +inserted, at the places opposite the eyes. + +In the houses of the poorer classes two or three families live under +one roof. They possess little more than straw mats, blankets, +pillows, and a few cooking utensils, not to forget a large wooden +box in which the meal, their chief property, is kept. Here as +everywhere else where corn is cultivated, bread is the principal +food of the common people. Every family bake twice daily, morning +and evening. + +Many of the small houses have very pretty courts, which are planted +with flowers, vines, and shrubs, and looked like gardens. + +The dwellings of the wealthy are lofty, airy, and spacious; the +reception rooms have a large number of windows, and are covered with +carpets. I saw no divans, people always lie upon the carpets. As +we made the visits without being invited, we found the women in very +plain coloured cotton dresses, of course, made in their own fashion. + +In the afternoon I rode with the missionaries to their large +country-house, which is situated about six miles from the town, on +some low hills. The valley through which we rode was very large, +and altogether well cultivated and delightful. Although it is said +to lie about 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, cotton, castor- +oil plants, vines, tobacco, and every kind of fruit grow here as in +South Germany. The castor-oil plant, indeed, is not more than four +feet high, and the cotton but one foot; they produce, however, +rather abundantly. Several villages are half hid in orchards. I +came into this country at a fortunate time: there were beautiful +peaches, apricots, apples, grapes, etc., true fruits of my native +country, of which I had long been deprived. + +The house of the missionary society is most charmingly situated; it +commands a view of the whole valley, the town, the low range of +hills, and the mountains. The house itself is large, and furnished +with every possible convenience, so that I thought I was in the +country-house of wealthy private people, and not under the roof of +simple disciples of Christ. There were four women here, and a whole +troop of children, great and small. I passed several very pleasant +hours among them, and was heartily sorry that I was obliged to take +leave of them at 9 in the evening. + +Several native girls were also introduced to me who were educated by +the wives of the missionaries. They spoke and wrote a little +English, and were well acquainted with geography. I cannot avoid, +on this occasion, making some observations with regard to the +missionaries, whose mode of life and labours I had frequent +opportunities of observing during my journey. I met with +missionaries in Persia, China, and India, and everywhere found them +living in a very different manner to what I had imagined. + +In my opinion the missionaries were almost, if not complete martyrs, +and I thought that they were so absorbed with zeal and the desire to +convert the heathen, that, like the disciples of Christ, quite +forgetting their comforts and necessaries, they dwelt with them +under one roof, and ate from one dish, etc. Alas! these were +pictures and representations which I had gathered out of books; in +reality the case was very different. They lead the same kind of +life as the wealthy: they have handsome dwellings, which are fitted +up with luxurious furniture, and every convenience. They recline +upon easy divans, while their wives preside at the tea-table, and +the children attack the cakes and sweetmeats heartily; indeed their +position is pleasanter and freer from care than that of most people; +their occupation is not very laborious, and their income is certain, +whatever may be the national or political condition of their +country. + +In places where several missionaries reside meetings are held three +or four times a week. These meetings or assemblies are supposed to +be for the transaction of business; but are not much other than +soirees, at which the ladies and children make their appearance in +elegant full dress. One missionary receives his friends at +breakfast, a second at dinner, the third at tea, several equipages +and a number of servants stand in the court-yard. + +Business is also attended to: the gentleman generally retire for +half an hour or so; but the greater part of the time is passed in +mere social amusement. + +I do not think that it can be easy to gain the confidence of the +natives in this way. Their foreign dress, and elegant mode of life, +make the people feel too strongly the difference of rank, and +inspire them with fear and reserve rather than confidence and love. +They do not so readily venture to look up to people of wealth or +rank, and the missionaries have consequently to exert themselves for +some time until this timidity is overcome. The missionaries say +that it is necessary to make this appearance, in order to create an +impression and command respect; but I think that respect may be +inspired by noble conduct, and that virtue will attract men more +than external splendour. + +Many of the missionaries believe that they might effect a great deal +by preaching and issuing religious tracts in the native language in +the towns and villages. They give the most attractive report of the +multitude of people who crowd to hear their preaching and receive +their tracts, and it might reasonably be thought that, according to +their representations, at least half of their hearers would become +converts to Christianity; but unfortunately the listening and +receiving tracts is as good as no proof at all. Would not Chinese, +Indian, or Persian priests have just as great troops of hearers if +they appeared in their respective national costume in England or +France, and preached in the language of those countries? Would not +people flock round them? would they not receive the tracts given out +gratis, even if they could not read them? + +I have made the minutest inquiries in all places respecting the +results of missions, and have always heard that a baptism is one of +the greatest rarities. The few Christians in India, who here and +there form villages of twenty or thirty families, have resulted +principally from orphan children, who had been adopted and brought +up by the missionaries; but even these require to be supplied with +work, and comfortably attended to, in order to prevent them from +falling back into their superstitions. + +Preaching and tracts are insufficient to make religious doctrine +understandable, or to shake the superstitions which have been +imbibed in infancy. Missionaries must live among the people as +fathers or friends, labour with them--in short, share their trials +and pleasures, and draw them towards them by an exemplary and +unpretending mode of life, and gradually instruct them in a way they +are capable of understanding. They ought not to be married to +Europeans for the following reasons:--European girls who are +educated for missionaries frequently make this their choice only +that they be provided for as soon as possible. If a young European +wife has any children, if she is weak or delicate, they are then +unable to attend any longer to their calling, and require a change +of air, or even a journey to Europe. The children also are weak, +and must be taken there, at latest in their seventh year. Their +father accompanies them, and makes use of this pretext to return to +Europe for some time. If it is not possible to undertake this +journey, they go to some mountainous country, where it is cooler, or +he takes his wife and family to visit a Mela. {287} At the same +time, it must be remembered that these journeys are not made in a +very simple manner: as mine has been, for instance; the missionary +surrounds himself with numerous conveniences; he has palanquins +carried by men, pack-horses, or camels, with tents, beds, culinary, +and table utensils; servants and maids in sufficient number. And +who pays for all this? Frequently poor credulous souls in Europe +and North America, who often deny themselves the necessaries of +life, that their little savings may be squandered in this way in +distant parts of the world. + +If the missionaries were married to natives, the greater part of +these expenses and requirements would be unnecessary; there would be +few sick wives, the children would be strong and healthy, and would +not require to be taken to Europe. Schools might be established +here and there for their education, although not in such a luxurious +manner as those at Calcutta. + +I hope that my views may not be misunderstood; I have great respect +for missionaries, and all whom I have known were honourable men, and +good fathers; I am also convinced that there are many learned men +among them, who make valuable contributions to history and +philosophy, but whether they thus fulfil their proper object is +another question. I should consider that a missionary has other +duties than those of a philosopher. + +For my own part, I can only express my obligations to the +missionaries; everywhere they showed me the greatest kindness and +attention. Their mode of life certainly struck me, because I +involuntarily associate with the name "missionary" those men who at +first went out into the world, without support, to diffuse the +doctrines of Christ, taking nothing with them but a pilgrim's staff. + +Before concluding my description of Oromia, I must remark that this +neighbourhood is considered to be the birth-place of Zoroaster, who +is said to have lived 5,500 years before the birth of Christ, and +was the founder of the sect of Magi, or fire-worshippers. + +On the 1st of August, I rode ten hours to the village of Kutschie, +which lies near the Lake Oromia; we seldom caught sight of the lake, +although we were always very near to it all day. We passed through +large, fertile villages, which would have presented a charming +prospect if they had not been situated between barren and naked +hills and mountains. + +I had not enjoyed so pleasant a day during the whole journey from +Mosul, or from Baghdad. My guide was a remarkably good fellow, very +attentive to me, and provided everything carefully when we reached +Kutschie; he took me to a very cleanly peasant's cottage, among some +excellent people; they immediately laid down a nice carpet for me on +a small terrace, brought me a basin of water to wash, and a quantity +of large black mulberries on a lacquered plate. Afterwards I had +some strong soup with meat, fat, sour milk, and good bread, all in +clean vessels; but what was better than all, the people retired as +soon as they had set the food before me, and did not stare at me as +if I was a strange animal. When I offered to pay these good people, +they would not take anything; I had no opportunity of rewarding them +until the following morning, when I took two men of the family as +guard across the mountains, and gave them twice as much as they are +generally paid; they thanked me, with touching cordiality, and +wished me safety and good fortune on my journey. + +2nd August. It occupied three hours to pass the most dangerous part +of these desolate mountains. My two armed men would not, indeed, +have afforded me much protection against a band of robbers, although +they were the means of making the journey less terrible than it +would have been if I had gone with my old guide alone. We met +several large caravans, but all going towards Oromia. + +When we had crossed the mountains, the two men left us. We entered +into enormous valleys, which seemed to have been forgotten by +nature, and deserted by man. In my opinion, we were not in any +degree out of the danger, and I was right; for, as we were passing +three ruined cottages in this barren valley, several fellows rushed +out upon us, laid hold of our horses' reins, and commenced rummaging +my luggage. I expected nothing but an order to dismount, and +already saw my little property lost. They talked with my guide, who +told them the tale which I had imposed upon him--that I was a poor +pilgrim, and that the English consuls or missionaries paid all my +travelling expenses. My dress, the smallness of my baggage, and +being alone, agreed perfectly with this; they believed him, and my +silent supplicative look, and let me go; they even asked me if I +would have some water, of which there is a scarcity in these +villages. I begged them for a draught, and so we parted good +friends. Nevertheless I was for some time fearful that they might +repent their generosity and follow us. + +We came to the shores of the lake again today, and continued to +travel for some time at its side. After a ride of fourteen hours, +we rested at a chan in the village of Schech-Vali. + +3rd August. The oppressive sense of fear was now at an end. We +passed through peaceful inhabited valleys, where the people were +working in the fields, carrying home corn, tending cattle, etc. + +During the hot noon hours we rested at Dise-halil, a rather +considerable town, with very clean streets; the principal street is +intersected by a clear brook, and the court-yards of the houses +resemble gardens. Here also I saw outside the town a great number +of very large gardens surrounded by high walls. + +From the number of chans, this town would appear to be very much +visited. In the small street through which we passed, I counted +more than half a dozen. We dismounted at one of them, and I was +quite astonished at the conveniences which I found there. The +stalls were covered; the sleeping-places for the drivers were on +pretty walled terraces; and the rooms for travellers, although +destitute of all furniture, were very clean, and furnished with +stoves. The chans were open to every one, and there is nothing to +pay for using them; at the utmost, a small trifle is given to the +overseer, who provides the travellers' meals. + +In this respect, the Persians, Turks, and the so-called uncultivated +people, are much more generous than we are. In India, for example, +where the English build bungalows, travellers must pay a rupee per +night, or even for an hour, which does not include any provision for +the driver or the animals: they are obliged to take their rest in +the open air. The travellers who are not Christians are not allowed +to come into most of the bungalows at all; in a few they are +admitted, but only when the rooms are not required by a Christian; +if, however, one should arrive at night, the poor unbeliever is +obliged to turn out for him without pity. This humane custom +extends also to the open bungalows, which consist only of a roof and +three wooden walls. In the countries of the unbelievers, however, +those who come first have the place, whether they are Christians, +Turks, or Arabs; indeed, I am firmly convinced, that if all the +places were occupied by unbelievers, and a Christian was to come, +they would make room for him. + +In the afternoon, we went as far as Ali-Schach, a considerable +place, with a handsome chan. + +We here met with three travellers, who were also going to Tebris. +My guide agreed to travel with them, and that we should start at +night. Their society was not very agreeable to me, for they were +well armed, and looked very savage. I should have preferred waiting +until daybreak, and going without them, but my guide assured me that +they were honest people; and trusting more to my good fortune than +his word, I mounted my horse about 1 o'clock at night. + +4th August. I soon lost my fear, for we frequently met small +parties of three or four persons, who would scarcely have ventured +to travel at night if the road had been dangerous. Large caravans +also, of several hundred camels, passed us and took up the road in +such a way, that we were obliged to wait for half an hour to allow +them to pass. + +Towards noon we entered a valley in which lay a town, which was +certainly large, but of such an unpretending appearance, that I did +not at once inquire what was its name. The nearer we approached the +more ruined it appeared. The walls were half fallen, the streets +and squares full of heaps of rubbish, and many of the houses were in +ruins; it seemed as if a pestilence or an enemy had destroyed it. +At last I asked its name, and could hardly believe that I had +understood it rightly when I was told that it was Tebris. + +My guide conducted me to the house of Mr. Stevens, the English +consul, who, to my vexation, was not in the town, but ten miles away +in the country. A servant, however, told me that he would go +directly to a gentleman who could speak English. In a very short +time he came, and his first questions were: "How did you come here, +_alone_? Have you been robbed? Have you parted from your company +and only left them in the town?" But when I gave him my pass, and +explained everything to him, he appeared scarcely to believe me. He +thought it bordered upon the fabulous that a woman should have +succeeded, without any knowledge of the language, in penetrating +through such countries and such people. I also could not be too +thankful for the evident protection which Providence had afforded +me. I felt myself as happy and lively as if I had taken a new lease +of my life. + +Doctor Cassolani showed me to some rooms in Mr. Stevens's house, and +said that he would immediately send a messenger to him, and I might +meanwhile make known my wants to him. + +When I expressed to him my astonishment at the miserable appearance +and ugly entrance to this town, the second in the country, he told +me that the town could not be well seen from the side at which I +came in, and that the part which I saw was not considered the town, +but was chiefly old and, for the most part, deserted. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. SOJOURN IN TEBRIS. + + + +DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN--THE TOWN--PERIOD OF FASTING--BEHMEN MIRZA-- +ANECDOTES OF THE PERSIAN GOVERNMENT--INTRODUCTION TO THE VICEROY AND +HIS WIFE--BEHMEN MIRZA'S WIVES--VISIT TO A PERSIAN LADY--PERSECUTION +OF THE LOWER CLASSES, OF THE CHRISTIANS, AND OF THE JEWS--DEPARTURE. + +Tebris, or Tauris, is the capital of the province of Aderbeidschan, +and the residence of the successor to the throne of Persia, who +bears the title of Viceroy. It is situated in a treeless valley on +the rivers Piatscha and Atschi, and contains 160,000 inhabitants. +The town is handsomer than Teheran or Ispahan, possesses a number of +silk looms and leather manufactories, and is said to be one of the +principal seats of Asiatic commerce. + +The streets are tolerably broad, and are also kept clean, there is +in each an underground water canal with openings at regular +intervals for the purpose of dipping out water. + +There is no more to be seen of the houses than in any other Oriental +town. Lofty walls with low entrances, without windows, and with the +fronts always facing the court-yards, which are planted with flowers +and small trees, and generally adjoining a beautiful garden. The +reception rooms are large and lofty, with whole rows of windows, +forming a complete wall of glass. The decoration of the rooms is +not elegant, generally nothing beyond some few carpets; European +furniture and articles of luxury are rare. + +There are no handsome mosques, palaces, or monuments, either ancient +or modern, with the exception of the partly ruined mosque of Ali- +Schach, which, however, will not bear comparison in any respect with +those in India. + +The new bazaar is very handsome, its lofty, broad covered streets +and passages forcibly called to my remembrance the bazaar at +Constantinople; but it had a more pleasant appearance as it is +newer. The merchant's stalls also are larger, and the wares, +although not so magnificent and rich as some travellers represent, +are more tastefully displayed and can be more easily overlooked, +especially the carpets, fruits, and vegetables. The cookshops also +looked very inviting, and the various dishes seemed so palatable and +diffused such a savoury odour, that I could have sat down with +pleasure and partaken of them. The shoe department, on the +contrary, presented nothing attractive; there were only goods of the +plainest description exposed; while in Constantinople the most +costly shoes and slippers, richly embroidered with gold, and even +ornamented with pearls and precious stones, are to be seen under +glass cases. + +I had arrived at Tebris at a rather unfavourable time--namely, the +fast month. From sunrise to sunset nothing is eaten, nobody leaves +the house, there are neither visits nor company--indeed, nothing but +praying. This ceremony is so strictly observed that invalids +frequently fall victims to it, as they will take neither medicine +nor food during the day; they believe that if they were to eat only +a mouthful, they would forfeit the salvation to be obtained by +fasting. Many of the more enlightened make an exception to this +custom in cases of illness; however, in such an instance the +physician must send a written declaration to the priest, in which he +explains the necessity of taking medicine and food. If the priest +puts his seal to this document, pardon is obtained. I am not aware +whether this granting of indulgences was taken by the Mahomedans +from the Christians, or the reverse. Girls are obliged to keep +these fasts after their tenth year, and boys after their fifteenth. + +It was to the courteousness of Dr. Cassolani, and his intimacy with +some of the principal families in Tebris, that I was indebted for my +introduction to them, and even for my presentation at court, +notwithstanding the strict observance of the fast. + +There was no viceroy in Tebris until about six months since, but +only a governor; the present reigning schach, Nesr-I-Din, raised the +province of Aderbeidschan to a vice-royalty, and decreed that every +eldest son of the future inheritor of the empire should reside here +as viceroy until he came to the throne. + +The last governor of Tebris, Behmen Mirza, the schach's brother, was +a remarkably intelligent and just man. He brought the province of +Aderbeidschan into a flourishing condition in a few years, and +everywhere established order and security. This soon excited the +envy of the prime minister Haggi-Mirza-Aagassi; he urged the schach +to recall his brother, and represented to him that he would engage +the affections of the people too much, and that he might at last +make himself king. + +For a long time the schach paid no attention to these insinuations, +for he loved his brother sincerely; but the minister did not rest +until he had attained his wishes. Behmen Mirza, who knew all that +was going on at court, hastened to Teheran for the purpose of +exculpating himself before the schach. The latter assured him of +his love and confidence, and told him, candidly, that he might +retain his office if the minister would consent to it, and +recommended him to endeavour to gain his favour. + +Behmen Mirza learnt, however, through his friends, that the minister +entertained an inveterate hatred towards him, and that he ran the +risk of being deprived of his sight, or even made away with +altogether. They advised him to lose no time, but quit the country +immediately. He followed their advice, returned quickly to Tebris, +gathered his valuables together, and fled with a part of his family +to the neighbouring Russian dominions. Having arrived there, he +appealed to the Emperor of Russia by letter, soliciting his +protection, which was magnanimously afforded to him. The emperor +wrote to the schach declaring that the prince was no longer a +Persian subject, and that therefore every persecution of himself or +his family must cease; he also provided him with a pretty palace +near Tiflis, sent him costly presents, and, as I was informed, +allowed him a yearly pension of 20,000 ducats. + +It may be seen from this circumstance that the minister completely +governed the schach; indeed he succeeded to such an extent, that the +schach honoured him as a prophet, and unconditionally carried out +all his suggestions. He was, on one occasion, desirous of effecting +some very important object. He told the schach, at a morning visit, +that he woke in the night and felt himself being carried upwards. +He went up higher and higher, and finally entered heaven, where he +saw and spoke with the king's father, who requested him to describe +the government of his son. The deceased king was greatly rejoiced +to hear of his good conduct, and recommended that he should continue +to go on thus. The delighted king, who had cordially loved his +father, did not cease from asking further questions, and the artful +minister always contrived to bring in at the end of his answers--"It +was only this or that thing that the father wished to see done," and +of course the good son fulfilled his father's wishes, not for one +moment doubting the assertions of his minister. + +The king is said to be rather passionate, and when in such a state +of mind, will order the immediate execution of an offender. The +minister, on the other hand, possesses at least enough sense of +justice to endeavour to stay the sentence of death upon men whom he +does not fear. He has, therefore, given orders that when such a +circumstance occurs, he is to be sent for immediately, and that the +preparations for the execution are to be delayed until he comes. He +makes his appearance then as if accidentally, and asks what is going +on. The enraged sovereign tells him that he is about to have an +offender executed. The minister agrees with him completely, and +steps to the window to consult the sky, clouds, and sun. Presently +he cries out that it would be better to postpone the execution until +the following day, as the clouds, sun, or sky at the present moment +are not favourable to it, and that some misfortune to the king might +probably result from it. In the meanwhile, the king's rage abates, +and he consents that the condemned should be taken away, and +generally, that he shall be set free; the next morning the whole +affair is forgotten. + +The following circumstance is also interesting; the king had once a +particular hatred for one of his town governors, and ordered him to +the capital, with the intention of having him strangled. The +minister, who was a friend of the governor, was desirous of saving +him, and did so in the following manner. He said to the king, +"Sire, I bid you farewell, I am going to Mecca." The king, greatly +grieved at the prospect of losing his favourite for so long (the +journey to Mecca takes at least a year), hastily asked the reason of +his making this journey. "You know, sire, that I am childless, and +that I have adopted the governor whom you wish to have executed; I +shall then lose my son, and I wish to fetch another from Mecca." +The king answered that he knew nothing of this, but as such was the +case he would not have him executed, but allow him to retain his +office. + +The king has a great affection for his mother. When she visited +him, he always rose and continued standing, while she sat down. The +minister was much annoyed at this mark of respect, and said to him, +"You are king, and your mother must stand before you." And he +ultimately succeeded according to his wish. If, however, the king's +mother comes at a time when the minister is not present, her son +pays her this respect. He then gives strict orders to his people +not to say anything of it to the minister. + +I was told these and other things by a very trustworthy person, and +they may serve to give my readers some slight idea of the system of +government in Persia. + +I was presented to the viceroy a few days after my arrival. I was +conducted one afternoon by Dr. Cassolani to one of the royal summer- +houses. The house was situated in a small garden, which was +surrounded by another larger one, both enclosed by very high walls. +In the outer garden there were, besides meadows and fruit trees, +nothing deserving of much notice, except a number of tents, in which +the military were encamped. The soldiers wore the usual Persian +dress, with the single exception that the officers on duty had a +sword, and the soldiers a musket. They only appear in uniform on +the most rare occasions, and then they are, in some respects, like +European soldiers. + +Several eunuchs received us at the entrance of the small garden. +They conducted us to an unpretending looking house, one story high, +at the end of a field of flowers. I should never have looked for +the country seat of the successor to the Persian throne in this +house; but such it was. At the narrow entrance of the little house +were two small flights of stairs, one of which led to the reception- +room of the viceroy, the other to that of his wife. The doctor +entered the former and several female slaves took me to the +viceroy's wife. When I reached the top of the stairs, I took off my +shoes, and entered a small, comfortable room, the walls of which +consisted almost entirely of windows. The viceroy's wife, who was +only fifteen years of age, sat upon a plain easy chair, not far from +her stood a middle-aged woman, the duenna of the harem, and an easy +chair was placed for me opposite the princess. + +I was fortunate enough to be remarkably well received. Dr. +Cassolani had described me as an authoress, adding that I intended +to publish the experiences of my journey. The princess inquired +whether I should mention her also, and when she was answered in the +affirmative, she determined to show herself in full dress, in order +to give me an idea of the gorgeous and costly dress of her country. + +The young princess wore trousers of thick silk, which were so full +of plaits that they stood out stiff, like the hooped petticoats of +our good old times. These trousers are from twenty to five and +twenty yards wide, and reach down to the ankle. The upper part of +the body was covered as far as the hips by a bodice, which, however, +did not fit close to the body. The sleeves were long and narrow. +The corset resembled that of the time of the hooped petticoats; it +was made of thick silk, richly and tastefully embroidered round the +corners with coloured silk and gold. A very short white silk +chemise was to be seen under the corset. On her head she wore a +three-cornered white kerchief, extending in front round the face, +and fastened under the chin; behind, it fell down as far as the +shoulders. This kerchief was also very handsomely embroidered with +gold and silk. The jewellery consisted of precious stones and +pearls of great purity and size; but they had not much effect, as +they were not set in gold, but simply perforated and strung upon a +gold thread, which was fastened above the head kerchief, and came +down under the chin. + +The princess had on black silk open-worked gloves, over which were +several finger rings. Round the wrists sparkled costly bracelets of +precious stones and pearls. On her feet she wore white silk +stockings. + +She was not remarkably beautiful; her cheek bones were rather too +prominent; but altogether her appearance was very attractive. Her +eyes were large, handsome, and intellectual, her figure pretty, and +her age--fifteen years. + +Her face was a very delicate white and red; and the eyebrows were +covered with blue streaks, which, in my opinion, rather disfigured +than adorned them. On the temple a little of her brilliant black +hair was to be seen. + +Our conversation was carried on by signs. Dr. Cassolani, who spoke +Persian very well, was not allowed to cross the threshold today, and +the princess had received me, consequently, unveiled. During this +stupid interview, I found time enough to look at the distant view +from the windows. It was here that I first saw how extensive the +town was, and what an abundance of gardens it possessed. The latter +are, indeed, its peculiar ornament, for it contains no fine +buildings; and the large valley in which it lies, together with the +mountains round, are naked and barren, and present no attractions. +I expressed my surprise at the great size of the town and the number +of the gardens. + +Towards the end of the audience, a quantity of fruits and sweetmeats +were brought, of which, however, I alone partook--it being fast +time. + +Leaving the princess, I was conducted to her husband, the viceroy. +He was seventeen, and received me seated upon an easy chair at a +bow-window. I had to thank my character of authoress, that a chair +was placed ready for me. The walls of the large room were panelled +with wood, and ornamented with several mirrors, gilt-work, and oil- +paintings of heads and flowers. In the middle of the saloon stood +two large empty bedsteads. + +The prince wore a European dress: trousers of fine white cloth, +with broad gold lace; a dark blue coat, the collar, facings, and +corners of which were richly embroidered with gold; white silk +gloves and stockings. His head was covered by a Persian fur cap +nearly a yard high. This is not, however, his ordinary dress; he is +said to change his mode of dressing oftener than his wife, and +sometimes to wear the Persian costume, sometimes to envelop himself +in cashmere shawls, as his fancy may be. + +I should have supposed that he was at least twenty-two. He has a +pale, tawny complexion, and, altogether, no attractive, amiable, or +intellectual expression; never looks straightforward and openly at +you, and his glance is savage and repulsive. I pitied, in my mind, +all those who were his subjects. I would rather be the wife of a +poor peasant than his favourite princess. + +The prince put several questions to me, which Dr. Cassolani, who +stood a few paces from us, interpreted. They were nothing +remarkable, chiefly common-places about my journey. The prince can +read and write in his mother tongue, and has, as I was told, some +idea of geography and history. He receives a few European +newspapers and periodicals from which the interpreter has to make +extracts, and read to him. His opinion of the great revolutions of +the time was, that the European monarchs might have been very good, +but they were most remarkably stupid to allow themselves to be so +easily driven from the throne. He considered that the result would +have been very different if they had had plenty of people strangled. +As far as regards execution and punishment, he far exceeds his +father; and, unfortunately, has no controlling minister at his side. +His government is said to be that of a child; one moment he orders +something to be done, and an hour afterwards countermands it. But +what can be expected from a youth of seventeen, who has received +little or no education; was married at fifteen, and, two years +afterwards, takes the unlimited control of a large province with a +revenue of a million tomans (500,000 pounds), and with every means +of gratifying his desires. + +The prince has at present only one regular wife, although he is +allowed to have four; however, he has no scarcity of handsome female +friends. It is the custom in Persia, that when the king, or the +successor to the throne, hears that any one of his subjects has a +handsome daughter or sister, he demands her. The parents or +relations are greatly rejoiced at this command, for if the girl is +really handsome, she is, in any case, well provided for. If, after +some time, she no longer pleases the king or prince, she is married +to some minister or rich man; but, if she has a child, she is +immediately considered as the king's or prince's acknowledged wife, +and remains permanently at court. When, on the contrary, a girl +does not please the regent at first sight, her family are very much +disappointed, and consider themselves unfortunate. She is, in this +case, sent home again immediately, her reputation for beauty is +lost, and she has not, after this, much chance of making a good +match. + +The princess is already a mother, but, unfortunately, only of a +daughter. She is, for the present, the chief wife of the prince, +because no other female has given birth to a son; but whoever brings +the first son into the world will then take her place: she will be +honoured as the mother of the heir to the throne. In consequence of +this custom, the children are unfortunately liable to the danger of +being poisoned; for any woman who has a child excites the envy of +all those who are childless; and this is more particularly the case +when the child is a boy. When the princess accompanied her husband +to Tebris, she left her little daughter behind, under the protection +of its grandfather, the Schach of Persia, in order to secure it from +her rivals. + +When the viceroy rides out, he is preceded by several hundred +soldiers. They are followed by servants with large sticks, who call +upon the people to bow before the powerful ruler. The prince is +surrounded by officers, military, and servants, and the procession +is closed by more soldiers. The prince only is mounted, all the +rest are on foot. + +The prince's wives are also permitted to ride out at times, but they +are obliged to be thickly veiled, and entirely surrounded by +eunuchs, several of whom hasten on before, to tell the people that +the wives of the monarch are on the road. Every one must then leave +the streets, and retire into the houses and bye-lanes. + +The wives of the banished prince, Behmen, who were left behind, +learnt, through Dr. Cassolani, that I thought of going to Tiflis. +They requested me to visit them, that I might be able to tell the +prince that I had seen them and left them well. The doctor +conducted me into their presence. He had been the friend and +physician of the prince, who was not one of the fanatic class, and +allowed him the entree to the females. + +Nothing very worthy of notice took place at this visit. The house +and garden were plain, and the women had wrapped themselves in large +mantles, as the doctor was present, some, indeed, covered a part of +their faces while speaking with him. Several of them were young, +although they all appeared older than they really were. One, who +was twenty-two, I should have taken to be at least thirty. A rather +plump dark beauty of sixteen was also introduced to me as the latest +addition to the harem. She had been bought at Constantinople only a +short time since. The women appeared to treat her with great good- +nature; they told me that they took considerable pains to teach her +Persian. + +Among the children there was a remarkably beautiful girl of six, +whose pure and delicate countenance was fortunately not yet +disfigured by paint. This child, as well as the others, was dressed +in the same way as the women; and I remarked that the Persian dress +was really, as I had been told, rather indecorous. The corset fell +back at every quick movement; the silk or gauze chemise, which +scarcely reached over the breast, dragged up so high that the whole +body might be seen as far as the loins. I observed the same with +the female servants, who were engaged in making tea or other +occupations; every motion disarranged their dress. + +My visit to Haggi-Chefa-Hanoum, one of the principal and most- +cultivated women in Tebris, was far more interesting. Even at the +entrance of the court-yard and house, the presence of a well- +regulating mind might be perceived. I had never seen so much +cleanliness and taste in any Oriental house. I should have taken +the court-yard for the garden, if I had not afterwards seen the +latter from the windows. The gardens here are, indeed, inferior to +ours, but are magnificent when compared with those at Baghdad. They +have flowers, rows of vines and shrubs, and between the fruit-trees +pleasant basins of water and luxuriant grass-plots. + +The reception-room was very large and lofty; the front and back (of +which the former looked out into the court-yard, the latter into the +garden), consisted of windows, the panes of which were in very small +six and eight-sided pieces, framed in gilded wood; on the door-posts +there was also some gilding. The floor was covered with carpeting; +and at the place where the mistress of the house sat, another piece +of rich carpet was laid over. In Persia, there are no divans, but +only thick round pillows for leaning upon. + +Intimation had previously been given of my visit. I found a large +party of women and young girls assembled, who had probably been +attracted here by their curiosity to see a European woman. Their +dress was costly, like that of the princess, but there was a +difference in the jewellery. Several among them were very handsome, +although they had rather broad foreheads, and too prominent cheek- +bones. The most charming features of the Persians are their eyes, +which are remarkable, as well for their size as their beautiful form +and animated expression. Of course, there was no want of paint on +their skins and eye-brows. + +This party of women was the most agreeable and unconstrained that I +ever found in Oriental houses. I was able to converse in French +with the mistress of the house, by the help of her son, of about +eighteen, who had received an excellent education in Constantinople. +Not only the son, but also the mother and the other women, were read +and well-informed. Dr. Cassolani, moreover, assured me that the +girls of rich families could nearly all read and write. They are, +in this respect, far in advance of the Turks. + +The mistress of the house, her son, and myself, sat upon chairs, the +rest squatted down on carpets round us. A table, the first that I +had seen in a Persian house, was covered with a handsome cloth, and +set out with the most magnificent fruits, sherbets, and various +delicacies, which had been prepared by my host herself; among the +sweetmeats were sugared almonds and fruits, which not only appeared +inviting, but tasted deliciously. + +The sweet melons and peaches were just in their prime during my stay +at Tebris. They were so delicious, that it may well be said Persia +is their native country. The melons have more frequently a whitish, +or greenish, than a yellow pulp. They may be eaten entirely, with +the exception of the outermost thin rind; and, if it were possible +for anything to exceed sugar in sweetness, it would be these melons. +The peaches are also juicy, sweet, and aromatic. + +Before leaving Tebris, I must say a few words about the people. The +complexion of the common men is rather more than sunburnt; among the +upper classes, white is the prevailing colour of the skin. They all +have black hair and eyes. Their figures are tall and powerful, the +features very marked--especially the nose--and the look rather wild. +The women, both of the upper and lower classes, are uncommonly +thickly veiled when they go out. The better-dressed men wear, out +of doors, a very long mantle of dark cloth with slashed sleeves, +which reach to the ground; a girdle or shawl surrounds their waist, +and their head-dress consists of a pointed black fur cap more than a +foot high, which is made of the skins of unborn sheep. The women of +the labouring class do not appear to have much to do; during my +journey, I saw only a few at work in the fields, and I noticed also +in the town that all the hard work is done by the men. + +In Tebris, as well as throughout the whole of Persia, the Jews, +semi-Mahomedans, and Christians, are intolerably hated. Three +months since, the Jews and Christians in Tebris were in great +danger. Several crowds of people gathered together and marched +through the quarter where these people dwelt, when they commenced +plundering and destroying the houses, threatening the inhabitants +with death, and, in some cases, even putting their threats into +execution. Fortunately, this horrible proceeding was immediately +made known to the governor of the town; and he, being a brave and +determined man, lost not a moment's time even to throw his kaftan +over his house-dress, but hastened out into the midst of the crowd, +and succeeded, by means of a powerful speech, in dispersing the +people. + +On arriving at Tebris, I expressed my desire to continue my journey +from here to Tiflis by way of Natschivan and Erivan. It appeared at +first that there was not much hope of its possibility, as, since the +late political disturbances in Europe, the Russian government, like +the Chinese, had strictly prohibited the entrance of any foreigners; +however, Mr. Stevens promised to make use of all his power with the +Russian consul, Mr. Anitschow, in my favour. I was indebted to +this, together with my sex and age, for being made an exception. I +received from the Russian consul not only the permission, but also +several kind letters of introduction to people at Natschivan, +Erivan, and Tiflis. + +I was advised to ride from Tebris to Natschivan with post-horses, +and to take a servant with me as far as that place. I did so, and +commenced my journey at 9 o'clock in the morning of the 11th of +August. Several gentlemen, whose acquaintance I had made in Tebris, +accompanied me about a mile out of the town, and we encamped on the +bank of a beautiful little river, and partook of a cold breakfast. +Then I began my journey alone, indeed, but composedly and with good +courage, for now I thought I was entering a Christian country, +beneath the sceptre of a civilized, European, law and order-loving +monarch. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. ASIATIC RUSSIA--ARMENIA, GEORGIA, AND MINGRELIA. + + + +SOPHIA--MARAND--THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER--NATSCHIVAN--JOURNEY OF THE +CARAVAN--A NIGHT'S IMPRISONMENT--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY-- +ERIVAN--THE RUSSIAN POST--THE TARTARS--ARRIVAL IN TIFLIS--SOJOURN +THERE--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY--KUTAIS--MARAND--TRIP ON THE +RIBON--REDUTKALE. + +11th August. The stations between Tebris and Natschivan are very +irregular; one of the longest, however, is the first--namely, to the +village of Sophia, which occupied us six hours. The road lay +through valleys, which were, for the most part, barren and +uninhabited. + +As it was already 3 o'clock when we reached Sophia, the people there +endeavoured to prevent me from going any further. They pointed to +the sun, and at the same time signified that I might be attacked by +robbers, plundered, and even murdered; but such statements had no +influence with me; and after I had with great trouble ascertained +that it would only require four hours to reach the next station, I +determined to continue my journey; and to the vexation of my +servant, whom I had engaged as far as Natschivan, ordered him to +saddle fresh horses. + +Immediately after leaving Sophia, we entered barren, rocky valleys, +which my guide represented as being very dangerous, and which I +should not have liked to pass at night; but as the sun was shining +in full splendour, I urged on my horse, and amused myself by looking +at the beautiful colours and grouping of the rocks. Some were of a +glittering pale green; others covered with a whitish, half +transparent substance; others again terminated in numerous oddly +formed angles, and from the distance looked like beautiful groups of +trees. There was so much to see that I really had no time to think +of fear. + +About half-way lay a pretty little village in a valley, and beyond +it rose a steep mountain, on the summit of which a charming prospect +of mountain country kept me gazing for a long while. + +We did not reach Marand till nearly 8 o'clock; but still with our +heads, necks, and baggage, all safe. + +Marand lies in a fertile valley, and is the last Persian town which +I saw, and one of the most agreeable and handsome. It has broad, +clean streets, houses in good repair, and several small squares with +beautiful springs, which are, moreover, surrounded by trees. + +My shelter for the night was not so good as the town promised: I +was obliged to share the court with the post-horses. My supper +consisted of some roasted and very salt eggs. + +12th August. Our journey for today was as far as Arax, on the +Russian frontier. Although only one stage, it took us eleven hours. +We followed the course of a small brook, which wound through barren +valleys and ravines; not a single village lay on our road; and with +the exception of some little mills and the ruins of a mosque, I saw +no more buildings in Persia. Persia is, on the whole, very thinly +populated, on account of the scarcity of water. No country in the +world has more mountains, and fewer rivers, than Persia. The air +is, on this account, very dry and hot. + +The valley in which Arax is situated is large, and the extraordinary +formation of the mountains and rocks renders it very picturesque. +In the extreme distance rise lofty mountains, of which Ararat is +more than 16,000 feet in height, and in the valley itself there are +numerous rocky elevations. The principal of these, a beautiful +sharp rocky cone, of at least 1,000 feet in height, is called the +Serpent Mountain. + +The river Aras flows close to the headland. It separates Armenia +from Media, has a terrible fall, and high waves. It here forms the +boundary between the Russian and Persian dominions. We crossed in a +boat. On the opposite side of the river were several small houses +where travellers are obliged to stop and prove that they are not +robbers, and especially that they are not politically dangerous. +Occasionally they are detained in quarantine for some time, when the +plague or cholera happens to be prevalent in Persia. + +A letter from the Russian consul at Tebris ensured me a very +courteous reception; from the quarantine I was saved, as there was +no plague or cholera. I had, however, scarcely set my foot upon +Russian ground, when the impudent begging for drink-money began. +The officer had among his people a Cossack, who represented himself +as understanding German, and he was sent to me to ask what I wished +for. The rogue knew about as much German as I did Chinese--hardly +three or four words. I therefore signified to him that I did not +require his services, in spite of which he held out his hand, +begging for money. + +13th August. I left Arax betimes in the morning, in company with a +customs' officer, and rode to the town of Natschivan, which lies in +a large valley, surrounded by the lofty mountains of Ararat. The +country here is fertile, but there are very few trees. + +I never had so much trouble to obtain shelter in any place as in +this. I had two letters, one to a German physician, the other to +the governor. I did not wish to go to the latter in my travelling +dress, as I was again among cultivated people, who are accustomed to +judge of you by your dress, and there was no inn. I therefore +intended to ask accommodation in the doctor's house. I showed the +address, which was written in the native language, to several people +to read, that they might point out the house to me; but they all +shook their heads, and let me go on. At last I came to the custom- +house, where my little luggage was immediately taken possession of, +and myself conducted to the inspector. He spoke a little German, +but paid no regard to my request. He told me to go into the custom- +house, and unlock my portmanteau. + +The inspector's wife and sister accompanied me. I was much +astonished at this politeness, but found, however, too soon that +other reasons had induced them to come--both the ladies wished to +see what I had brought with me. They had chairs brought, and took +their places before my portmanteau, which was opened, when three +pair of hands were thrust in. A number of papers folded together, +coins, dried flowers, and other objects, obtained from Nineveh, were +instantly seized hold of, and thrown about; every ribbon, every cap, +was taken out; and it was clearly perceptible that the inspector's +wife had some difficulty in parting with them again. + +After this was sufficiently examined, a common box, which contained +my greatest treasure, a small relief from Nineveh, was brought +forward. One of the men took hold of a heavy wooden axe, for the +purpose of striking off the lid. This was rather too much for me, +and I would not allow it. To my great satisfaction, a German woman +came in just at this moment. I told her what was in the box, and +that I did not object to its being opened, although I wished them to +do it carefully with a chisel and pincers; but, strange to say, +there were no such tools in the place, although they were wanted +daily. I at last succeeded in persuading them to break off the lid +with care. Notwithstanding the anxiety I was in, I could not help +laughing at the foolish faces which both the women and the customs' +officer made when they saw the fragments of brick from Babylon, and +the somewhat damaged Ninevite head. They could not at all +comprehend why I should carry such objects with me. + +The German woman, Henriette Alexandwer, invited me to take coffee +with her; and when she heard of my perplexity with respect to a +lodging, she offered me a room in her house. On the following day, +I visited the governor, who received me very politely, and +overpowered me with favours,--I was obliged to move into his house +directly. He attended to my passport, and obtained all the +necessary vises, of which I required half a dozen since entering the +Christian dominions, and made an agreement for me with some Tartars, +whose caravan was going to Tiflis. I then looked round the +miserable half-ruined town with the good Mrs. Alexandwer, and saw +Noah's monument. + +According to Persian accounts, Natschivan is said to have been one +of the largest and handsomest towns of Armenia; and Armenian writers +affirm that Noah was the founder. The modern town is built quite in +the Oriental style; only a few of the houses have the windows and +doors turned towards the streets; generally the front faces the +small garden. The dress of the people is also rather like the +Persian, but the officials, merchants, etc., wear European costume. + +Nothing more remains of Noah's sepulchre than a small arched +chamber, without a cupola. It appears to have been formerly covered +with one, but it is not possible to decide from the few ruins that +now remain. In the interior, neither a sarcophagus nor grave are to +be seen; a single brick pillar stands in the centre, and supports +the roof. The whole is surrounded by a low wall. Many pilgrims +come here, Mahomedans as well as Christians; and both sects +entertain the remarkable belief, that if they press a stone into the +wall while thinking of something at the same time, and the stone +remains sticking to the wall, that their thoughts are either true or +will come to pass, and the reverse when the stone does not adhere. +The truth of the matter is, however, simply this: the cement or +mortar is always rather moist, and if a smooth stone is pushed a +little upwards while being pressed, it remains hanging; if it is +only pressed horizontally, it falls off again. + +Not far from Noah's tomb stands another very handsome monument; +unfortunately I could not learn to whose memory it was erected, or +to what age it belonged. It consists of a high building, resembling +a tower with twelve angles; the walls between the angles are +covered, from top to bottom, with the most artistic mathematical +figures in triangles and sexagons, and some places are inlaid with +glazed tiles. The monument is surrounded by a wall, forming a small +court-yard; at the entrance-gates stand half-ruined towers, like +minarets. + +17th August. I felt very unwell today, which was the more +unpleasant, as the caravan started in the evening. For several days +I had been unable to take any food, and suffered from excessive +lassitude. Nevertheless I left my rest, and mounted my caravan nag; +I thought that change of air would be the best restorative. + +Fortunately we went only a short distance beyond the city gate, and +remained there during the night and the following day. We did not +proceed any further until the evening of the 18th of August. The +caravan only conveyed goods, and the drivers were Tartars. The +journey from Natschivan to Tiflis is generally made in from twelve +to fourteen days; but with my caravan, to judge from the progress we +made at the commencement, it would have occupied six weeks, for on +the first day we went scarcely any distance, and on the second, very +little more than the first; I should have travelled quicker on foot. + +19th August. It is really unbearable. During the whole day we lay +in waste stubble-fields, exposed to the most scorching heat, and did +not mount our horses until 9 o'clock in the evening; about an hour +afterwards we halted, and encamped. The only thing good about this +caravan was the food. The Tartars do not live so frugally as the +Arabs. Every evening an excellent pillau was made with good-tasting +fat, frequently with dried grapes or plums. Almost every day +beautiful water and sugar-melons were brought to us to buy. The +sellers, mostly Tartars, always selected a small lot and offered it +to me as a present. + +The road led continually through large, fertile valleys round the +foot of Ararat. Today I saw the majestic mountain very clearly, and +in tolerable proximity. I should think we were not more than two or +three miles from it. It seemed, from its magnitude, as if separated +from the other mountains, and standing alone; but it is in fact, +connected with the chain of Taurus by a low range of hills. Its +highest summit is divided in such a way that between two peaks there +is a small plain, on which it is said that Noah's ark was left after +the deluge. There are people who affirm that it would still be +found there if the snow could be removed. + +In the more recent treatises on geography, the height of Ararat is +given as 16,000 feet; in the older ones, as 11,000. The Persians +and Armenians call this mountain Macis; the Grecian writers describe +it as a part of the Taurus range. Ararat is quite barren, and +covered above with perpetual snow; lower down lies the cloister, +Arakilvank, at the place where Noah is said to have taken up his +first abode. + +20th August. We encamped in the neighbourhood of the village Gadis. +Many commentators of the Scriptures place the garden of Eden in the +Armenian province of Ararat. In any case, Armenia has been the +scene of most important events. Nowhere have so many bloody battles +taken place as in this country, as all the great conquerors of Asia +have brought Armenia under their control. + +21st August. We still continued near Ararat; meanwhile we passed by +Russian and German colonies, the houses in the latter had exactly +the appearance of those in German mountain villages. The road was, +throughout, very uneven and stony, and I cannot imagine how the post +can travel upon it. + +Today I met with another very unpleasant adventure. My caravan +encamped in the neighbourhood of the station Sidin, about fifty +paces from the side of the post-road. Towards 8 in the evening I +walked out as far as the road, and as I was about to return I heard +the sound of post-horses coming; I remained in the road to see the +travellers, and noticed a Russian, seated in an open car, and by his +side a Cossack, with a musket. When the vehicle had passed, I +turned quietly round; but, to my astonishment, heard it stop, and +felt myself, almost at the same moment, seized forcibly by the arms. +It was the Cossack who held me, and endeavoured to drag me to the +car. I tried to release myself, pointed to the caravan, and said +that I belonged to it. The fellow immediately stopped my mouth with +his hand, and threw me into the car, where I was tightly held by the +other man. The Cossack immediately jumped up, and the driver urged +his horses on as quickly as they could go. The whole was done so +quickly that I scarcely knew what had happened to me. The men held +me tightly by the arms, and my mouth was kept covered up until we +were so far from the caravan that the people belonging to it could +no longer have heard my cries. + +Fortunately I was not frightened; I thought at once that these two +amiable Russians might, in their zeal, have taken me for a very +dangerous person, and have supposed they had made a very important +capture. When they uncovered my mouth, they commenced questioning +me as to my native country, name, etc. I understood enough Russian +to give them this information, but they were not satisfied with +that, and required to see my passport; I told them that they must +send for my portmanteau, and then I would show them that I had +permission to travel. + +We came, at last, to the post-house, where I was taken into a room; +the Cossack placed himself with his musket under the open door, so +as to keep his eye continually on me; and the other man, who, from +his dark-green velvet facings, I supposed to be one of the Emperor's +officers, remained some time in the room. At the end of half an +hour, the post-master, or whoever he was, came to examine me, and to +hear an account of the achievements of my captors, who hastened, +with laughing countenances, to give a complete statement of what had +happened. + +I was obliged to pass the night, under strict guard, upon a wooden +bench, without either a wrapper or a mantle with me, and suffering +from hunger and thirst. They neither gave me a coverlet nor a piece +of bread; and when I merely rose from the bench to walk up and down +the room, the Cossack rushed in immediately, seized my arms, and led +me back to the bench, telling me, at the same time, that I must +remain there quietly. + +Towards morning they brought me my luggage, when I showed them my +papers, and was set at liberty. Instead, however, of apologizing +for having treated me in such a way, they laughed at me; and when I +came out into the court, every one pointed at me with their fingers, +and joined my gaolers in their laughter. Oh! you good Turks, Arabs, +Persians, Hindoos, or whatever else you may be called, such +treatment was never shown to me amongst you! How pleasantly have I +always taken leave of all your countries; how attentively I was +treated at the Persian frontiers, when I would not understand that +my passport was required, and here, in a Christian empire, how much +incivility have I had to bear during this short journey! + +On the 22nd of August I rejoined my caravan, where I was received +with cordiality. + +23rd August. The country still presented the same features; one +large valley succeeding another. These valleys are less cultivated +than those in Persia; today, however, I saw one which was tolerably +well planted, and in which the villagers had even planted trees +before their huts. + +24th August. Station Erivan. I was happy to have reached this +town, as I hoped to meet with some of my country-people here, and, +by their help, to find a quicker mode of conveyance to Tiflis. I +was determined to leave the caravan, since we did not go more than +four hours a day. + +I had two letters; one to the town physician, the other to the +governor. The latter was in the country; Dr. Muller, however, +received me so well that I could not possibly have been better taken +care of. + +Erivan {305} is situated on the river Zengui, and is the capital of +Armenia; it contains about 17,000 inhabitants, and is built upon low +hills, in a large plain, surrounded on all sides with mountains. +The town has some fortified walls. Although the European mode of +architecture already begins to predominate greatly, this town is by +no means to be reckoned among either the handsome or cleanly ones. +I was most amused by the bazaars, not on account of their contents, +for these do not present any remarkable features, but because I +always saw there different, and for the most part unknown, national +costumes. There were Tartars, Cossacks, Circassians, Georgians, +Mingrelians, Turkonians, Armenians, etc.; chiefly powerful, handsome +people, with fine expressive features--particularly the Tartars and +Circassians. Their dress partly resembled the Persian; indeed that +of the Tartars differed from it only by points to the boots, and a +less lofty cap. The points on the boots are frequently as much as +four inches long, and turned inward and towards the end; the caps +are also pointed, and made of black fur, but not more than half as +high. Very few of the women of these tribes are seen in the +streets, and those are enveloped in wrappers; nevertheless, they do +not veil their faces. + +The Russians and the Cossacks have stupid coarse features, and their +behaviour corresponds completely to what their appearance indicates; +I never met with a people so covetous, coarse, and slavish as they +are. When I asked about anything, they either gave me a surly +answer, or none at all, or else laughed in my face. This rudeness +would not, perhaps, have appeared so remarkable if I had come from +Europe. + +It had already been my intention in Natschivan to travel with the +Russian post; but I had been dissuaded from doing so, as I was +assured that, as a solitary woman, I should not be able to agree +with the people. However, here I was determined to do so, and I +requested Dr. Muller to make the necessary preparations for me. + +In order to travel in Russia by the post, it is necessary to procure +a padroschne (certificate of permission), which is only to be had in +a town where there are several grades of officials, as this +important document requires to be taken to six of the number. 1st, +to the treasurer; 2nd, to the police (of course with the passport, +certificate of residence, etc.); 3rd, to the commandant; 4th, again +to the police; 5th, again to the treasurer; and 6th, to the police +again. In the padroschne an accurate account must be given of how +far the traveller wishes to go, as the postmaster dare not proceed a +single werst beyond the station named. Finally, a half kopec (half +kreutzer), must be paid per werst for each horse. This at first +does not appear much; but is, nevertheless, a considerable tax, when +it is remembered that seven wersts are only equal to a geographical +mile, and that three horses are always used. + +On the 26th of August, about 4 in the morning, the post was to have +been at the house; but it struck 6, and there was still no +appearance of it. If Dr. Muller had not been so kind as to go +there, I should not have started until the evening. About 7, I got +off--an excellent foretaste of my future progress. + +We travelled certainly with speed; but any one who had not a body of +iron, or a well-cushioned spring carriage, would not find this very +agreeable, and would certainly prefer to travel slower upon these +uneven, bad roads. + +The post carriage, for which ten kopecs a station is paid, is +nothing more than a very short, wooden, open car, with four wheels. +Instead of a seat, some hay is laid in it, and there is just room +enough for a small chest, upon which the driver sits. These cars +naturally jolt very much. There is nothing to take hold of, and it +requires some care to avoid being thrown out. The draught consists +of three horses abreast; over the centre one a wooden arch is fixed, +on which hang two or three bells, which continually made a most +disagreeable noise. In addition to this, imagine the rattling of +the carriage, and the shouting of the driver, who is always in great +activity urging on the poor animals, and it may be easily understood +that, as is often the case, the carriage arrives at the station +without the travellers. + +The division of the stations is very irregular, varying from +fourteen to thirty wersti. Between the second and third stations, I +passed over a very short space of ground, where I found a kind of +lava, exactly resembling the beautiful, brilliant, glassy lava of +Iceland (black agate, also called obsidian), which was stated to be +found in that island only. The second stage led through a newly- +erected Russian village, extending to Lake Liman. + +August 27th. Today I had another evidence of the pleasure of +travelling by the Russian post. On the previous evening I had +ordered and paid for everything before-hand; yet I was obliged in +the morning to awaken the post officers myself, as well as to see +after the driver, and to be constantly about among the people, in +order to get away. At the third station I was kept waiting three +hours for the horses; at the fourth they gave me none, and I was +obliged to stay all night, although I had gone only fifty-five +wersti the whole day. + +The character of the country changes before reaching Delischan: the +valleys contract to narrow gorges, and the mountains seldom leave +space for small villages and plots of ground. The naked masses of +rock cease, and luxuriant woods cover the heights. + +Near Pipis, the last stage that I went today, beautiful cliffs and +rocks rose close to the post-road, many of them presenting the +appearance of enormous columns. + +August 28th. Continual trouble with the post people. I am the +greatest enemy of scolding and harsh treatment; but I should have +best liked to have spoken to these people with a stick. No idea can +be formed of their stupidity, coarseness, and want of feeling. +Officers, as well as servants, are frequently found at all hours of +the day sleeping or drunk. In this state they do as they please, +will not stir from their places, and even laugh in the faces of the +unfortunate travellers. By the aid of much quarrelling and noise, +one is at last induced to drag out the car, a second to grease it, +another baits the horses, which have often to be harnessed, then the +straps are not in order, and must be first fastened and repaired; +and innumerable other things of this kind, which are done with the +greatest tardiness. When, afterwards, in the towns I expressed my +disapprobation of these wretched post establishments, I received as +answer that these countries had been too short a time under Russian +dominion, that the imperial city was too far distant, and that I, as +a single woman without servants, might consider myself fortunate in +having got through as I had. + +I did not know what reply to make to this, except that in the most +recently acquired colonial possessions of the English, which are +still farther from the capital, everything is excellently arranged; +and that there a woman without servants was as quickly attended to +as a gentleman, since they find her money not less acceptable than +that of the latter. The case is very different, however, at a +Russian post station; when an official or officer comes, every one +is active enough, cringing round the watering-place for fear of +flogging or punishment. Officers and officials belong, in Russia, +to the privileged class, and assume all kinds of despotism. If, for +example, they do not travel on duty, they should not, according to +the regulations, have any greater advantages than private +travellers. But, instead of setting a good example, and showing the +mass of the people that the laws and regulations must be observed, +it is precisely these people who set all laws at defiance. They +send a servant forward or borrow one from their fellow-travellers, +to the station to announce that on such a day they shall arrive, and +will require eight or twelve horses. If any hindrance occurs during +this time--a hunt or a dinner--or if the wife of the traveller has a +headache or the cramp, they postpone the journey without any ado to +another day or two; the horses stand constantly ready, and the +postmaster dare not venture to give them to private travellers. +{308} It may so happen that travellers have in such a case to wait +one or even two days at a station, and do not get through their +journey quicker by the post than by a caravan. In the course of my +journey by the Russian post, I several times went only a single +stage during a whole long day. When I saw an uniform I was always +in dread, and made up my mind that I should have no horses. + +In each post-house, there are one or two rooms for travellers, and a +married Cossack in charge, who, together with his wife, attends to +strangers, and cooks for them. No charge is made for the room, the +first comer is entitled to it. These attendants are as obliging as +the stable people, and it is often difficult to procure with money a +few eggs, milk, or anything of the kind. + +The journey through Persia was dangerous; that through Asiatic +Russia, however, was so troublesome, that I would prefer the former +under any circumstances. + +From Pipis the country again diminishes in beauty: the valleys +expand, the mountains become lower, and both are frequently without +trees, and barren. + +I met, today, several nomadic parties of Tartars. The people sat +upon oxen and horses, and others were loaded with their tents and +household utensils; the cows and sheep, of which there were always a +great number, were driven by the side. The Tartar women were mostly +richly clothed, and also very ragged. Their dress consisted almost +entirely of deep red silk, which was often even embroidered with +gold. They wore wide trousers, a long kaftan, and a shorter one +over that; on the head a kind of bee-hive, called schaube, made of +the bark of trees, painted red and ornamented with tinsel, coral, +and small coins. From the breast to the girdle their clothes were +also covered with similar things, over the shoulders hung a cord +with an amulet in the nose, they wore small rings. They had large +wrappers thrown round them; but left their faces uncovered. + +Their household goods consisted of tents, handsome rugs, iron pots, +copper coins, etc. The Tartars are mostly of the Mahomedan +religion. + +The permanent Tartars have very peculiar dwellings, which may be +called enormous mole-hills. Their villages are chiefly situated on +declivities, and hills, in which they dig holes of the size of +spacious rooms. The light falls only through the entrance, or +outlet. This is broader than it is high, and is protected by a long +and broad portico of planks, resting either upon beams or the stems +of trees. Nothing is more comical than to see such a village, +consisting of nothing but these porticoes, and neither windows, +doors, nor walls. + +Those who dwell in the plains make artificial mounds of earth, and +build their huts of stone or wood. They then throw earth over them, +which they stamp down tightly, so that the huts themselves cannot be +seen at all. Until within the last sixty years, it is said that +many such dwellings were to be seen in the town of Tiflis. + +29th August. This morning I had still one stage of twenty-four +wersti ere I reached Tiflis. The road was, as everywhere else, full +of holes, ruts and stones. I was obliged always to tie a +handkerchief tightly round my head, to ease the jolting; and still, +I was every day attacked with headache. Today, however, I learnt +the full nuisance of these carriages. It had rained, not only +during the whole night, but still continued so. The wheels threw up +such masses of mud, that I soon sat in a thick puddle, I was covered +even over the head, and my face did not escape. Small boards +hanging over the wheels would have easily remedied this +inconvenience; but none trouble themselves in this country about the +comfort of travellers. + +Tiflis comes in sight during the latter half of the stage. The +prospect of the town charmed me much; as, with the exception of a +few church towers, it was built in the European style; and, since +Valparaiso, I had not seen any town resembling the European. Tiflis +contains 50,000 inhabitants, it is the capital of Georgia, {309} and +is situated tolerably near the mountains. Many of the houses are +built on hills, on high steep rocks. From some of the hills there +is a beautiful view of the town and valley. The latter, at the time +of my visit, was not very attractive, as the harvest had deprived it +of all the charms of colour; there were also but few gardens, etc. +On the other hand, the river Kurry (generally called Cyrus) winds in +graceful curves through the town and valley, and in the far distance +sparkle the snow-crowned summits of the Caucasus. A strong citadel, +Naraklea, is situated upon steep rocks, immediately before the town. + +The houses are large, and tastefully ornamented with facades and +columns, and covered with sheet iron or bricks. The Erivanski Place +is very handsome. Among the buildings the Palace of the governor, +the Greek and Armenian seminaries, and several barracks are +conspicuous. The large theatre, in the centre of the Erivanski +Place, was not then finished. It is evident that the old town must +give place to the new one. Everywhere houses are being pulled down, +and new ones built; the narrow streets will soon only be known by +tradition, and the only remains of the Oriental architecture, are +the Greek and Armenian houses. The churches are far inferior in +splendour and magnitude to the other buildings; the towers are low, +round, and generally covered with green glazed tiles. The oldest +Christian church stands upon a high rock in the fortress, and is +used only for the prisoners. + +The bazaars and chan present no features worthy of notice; moreover, +there are already here, as in all European towns, shops and stores +in all the streets. Several wide bridges are thrown over the Kurry. +The town contains numerous warm sulphuretted springs, from which, +indeed, it derives its name: Tiflis or Ibilissi, meaning "warm +town." Unfortunately, the greater number of the many baths are in +the worst condition. The buildings, within which the springs are +enclosed, are surmounted by small cupolas with windows. The +reservoirs, the floor, and walls, are for the most part covered with +large stone slabs; very little marble is to be seen. There are +private and public baths, and men are not allowed to enter the +buildings where the women assemble; however, they are not nearly so +strict here as in the East. The gentleman who was so kind as to +accompany me to one of these baths, was permitted to come into the +anteroom, although it was separated from the bathing-place only by a +simple wooden partition. + +Not far from the baths lies the Botanic Garden, which has been laid +out, at great expense, on the declivity of a mountain. The +terraces, which had to be artificially cut, are supported by masonry +and filled with earth. Why such an unsuitable place was chosen I +cannot imagine; the less so as I saw only a few rare plants and +shrubs, and everywhere nothing but grape-vines; I fancied myself in +a vineyard. The most remarkable things in this garden are two vine- +stocks, whose stems were each a foot in diameter. They are so +extended in groves and long rows that they form pleasant walks. +More than a thousand flasks of wine are annually obtained from these +two vines. + +A large grotto has been excavated in one of the upper terraces whose +whole front side is open, and forms a high-arched hall. In the fine +summer evenings there is music, dancing, and even theatrical +performances. + +On Sundays and festivals the pretty gardens of the governor are +opened to the public. There are swings and winding-paths, and two +bands of music. The music executed by the Russian military was not +so good as that which I heard by the blacks in Rio Janeiro. + +When I visited the Armenian Church, the corpse of a child had just +been laid out. It was in a costly open bier, covered with red +velvet and richly ornamented with gold lace. The corpse was strewed +over with flowers, decorated with a crown, and covered with fine +white gauze. The priests, in sumptuous robes, conducted the funeral +ceremonies, which were very similar to the Catholic. The poor +mother, at whose side I accidentally happened to kneel, sobbed +loudly when preparations were made to carry away the dear remains. +I also could not restrain my tears: I wept not for the death of the +child, but for the deep grief of the afflicted parent. + +Leaving this place of mourning, I visited some Greek and Armenian +families. I was received in spacious rooms, which were fitted up in +the most simple manner. Along the walls stood painted wooden +benches partly covered with rugs. On these benches the people sit, +eat, and sleep. The women wear Grecian dresses. + +European and Asiatic costumes are seen so frequently together in the +streets, that neither the one nor the other appears peculiar. The +greatest novelty to me, in this respect, was the Circassian dress. +It consists of wide trousers, short coats full of folds, with narrow +sashes, and breast pockets for from six to ten cartridges; tight +half-boots, with points turned inwards, and close-fitting fur caps. +The more wealthy wore coats of fine dark-blue cloth, and the edges +were ornamented with silver. + +The Circassians are distinguished from all other Caucasian people by +their beauty. The men are tall, have very regular features and +great ease in their motions. The women are of a more delicate +build; their skin is whiter, their hair dark, their features +regular, their figures slender, with their busts well developed: in +the Turkish harems they are considered the greatest beauties. I +must confess, however, that I have seen many handsomer women in the +Persian harems than in the Turkish, even when they contained +Circassians. + +The Asiatic women, when in the streets here, wrap themselves in +large white mantles; many cover the mouth as well, and some few the +remainder of the face. + +Of the domestic life of the Russian officials and officers I cannot +say much. I had, indeed, a letter to the chancellor director, Herr +von Lille, and to the governor, Herr von Jermaloff; but both +gentlemen were not much pleased with me--my free expression of +opinion, perhaps, did not suit them. I made no scruple of speaking +my mind with regard to the ill-regulated posting establishments, and +the miserable roads. I, moreover, related my imprisonment, with a +few comments; and, what crowned all, I said that I had intended to +have gone on from here across the Caucasus to Moscow and +Petersburgh, but that I had been completely deterred from doing so +by my short experience of travelling in the country, and would take +the shortest road to get beyond the frontier as soon as possible. +If I had been a man and had spoken so, I should probably have been +treated with a temporary residence in Siberia. + +Herr von Lille, however, always received me with politeness when I +called on him for the purpose of having my passport prepared. The +governor did not treat me with a like consideration; first he put me +off from one day to another, then it pleased the mighty man to pass +two days in the country. When he came back, it was a Sunday; on +which day such a great work could not possibly be done, and so I did +not obtain my passport until the sixth day. + +Thus it fared with me, who was provided with letters to the chief +officers,--how do poor people come off? I heard, indeed, that they +are often kept waiting two or three weeks. + +The viceroy, Prince Woronzou, was unfortunately not in Tiflis at the +time. I regretted his absence the more, as I everywhere heard him +represented as an educated, just, and extremely amiable man. + +Far pleasanter than these visits to the Russian governor was that to +the Persian Prince Behmen Mirza, to whom I brought letters and +intelligence from his family, who were remaining in Tebris. +Although he was ill at the time, nevertheless he received me. I was +conducted into a large saloon, a complete hospital for eight sick +persons: the prince, four of his children, and three wives, laid +there upon rugs and cushions. They all suffered from fever. The +prince was a remarkably handsome and powerful man of five and +thirty; his full eyes were expressive of intelligence and goodness. +He spoke with great regret of his fatherland; a smile of painful +delight played round his features when I mentioned his children, +{312} and related how safely and well I had travelled through those +provinces which, but a short time before, had been under his +control. What a happiness would it be for Persia if such a man as +this was to come to the throne instead of the young viceroy. + +The most interesting, and, at the same time, useful acquaintance +which I made was that of Herr Salzmann, a German. This gentleman +possesses considerable knowledge of agriculture, and more than all, +a singularly good heart; he interests himself for all kinds of +people, and more especially his own countrymen. Wherever I +mentioned his name, people spoke of him with true respect. He had +just received a decoration from the Russian government, although he +was not in their service. + +Herr Salzmann has built a very handsome house, with every possible +convenience for the reception of travellers; besides this he owns a +large fruit-garden, ten wersti distant from the town, in the +neighbourhood of which are some naphtha springs. When he found that +I wished to see these he immediately invited me to join a party to +visit them. The springs are situated very near to the Kurry. +Square pits, about twenty-five fathoms deep, are dug, and the +naphtha is dipped out by means of wooden buckets. This naphtha, +however, is of the commonest kind, of a dark brown colour, and +thicker than oil. Asphalte, cart-grease, etc., are made from it. +The fine white naphtha, which can be used for lighting and fuel, is +peculiar to the Caspian Sea. + +A walk to the Chapel of David, which lies upon a hill immediately in +front of the town, repays the trouble. Besides the lovely country, +there is to be seen here a fine monument erected in memory of the +Russian ambassador, Gribojetof, who was murdered in Persia on the +occasion of a revolt. A cross, at the foot of which lies his +mourning wife, is very artistically cast in metal. + +On Monday, the 5th of September, I received my passport, about 11 +o'clock; I ordered the post carriage an hour afterwards. Herr +Salzmann proposed that I should visit some German settlements, which +were situated at about ten or twenty wersti from Tiflis, and offered +to accompany me there; but I had not much inclination to do so, more +particularly as I had heard everywhere that the settlers had already +much degenerated, and that idleness, fraud, dirt, drunkenness, etc., +was not less frequent among them than in the Russian colonies. + +I left Tiflis about 3 in the afternoon. Just outside the town +stands, by the roadside, a cross cast in metal, with the eye of +Providence upon a pedestal of polished granite, surrounded by an +iron railing. An inscription states that, on the 12th of October, +in the year 1837, his imperial majesty was upset here, but that he +had escaped without injury. "Erected by his grateful subjects." + +This incident appears, therefore, to have been one of the most +remarkable in the life of this powerful ruler, as it has been +commemorated by a monument. It has, certainly, not been erected +without the approval of the emperor. I am by no means certain which +is the most to be wondered at, the people who placed it here, or the +monarch who permitted it. + +I went only one stage today, but it was so long, that I had to +continue my journey into the evening. To go any further was not to +be thought of, as the country, not only here, but in the greater +part of this province, is so unsafe that it is impossible to travel +in the evening or night without the protection of Cossacks, for +which purpose a small company is placed at each station. + +The scenery was rather agreeable; pretty hills enclosed pleasant +looking valleys, and on the tops of some mountains stood ruins of +castles and fortified places. There were times in the history of +this kingdom as well as the German when one noble made war upon the +others, and no man was safe of his life and property. The nobles +lived in fortified castles upon hills and mountains, went out mailed +and harnessed like knights, and when threatened by hostile attacks, +their subjects fled to the castles. There are still said to be +people who wear, either over or under the clothes, shirts of mail, +and helmets instead of caps. I did not, however, see anything of +the kind. The river Kurry continued to run along by our road. Not +far from the station a long handsome bridge led across, but it was +so awkwardly placed that it was necessary to go out of the way a +whole werst to reach it. + +6th September. The journey became still more romantic. Bushes and +woods covered the hills and valleys, and the tall-stemmed, rich, +green Turkish corn waved in the fields. There were also numbers of +old castles and fortresses. Towards evening, after having with +great exertion travelled four stages, I reached the little town of +Gory, whose situation was exceedingly charming. Wooded mountains +surrounded it in wide circles, while nearer at hand rose pretty +groups of hills. Nearly in the centre of the mass of houses a hill +was to be seen, whose summit was crowned by a citadel. The little +town possesses some pretty churches, private houses, barracks, and a +neat hospital. Both towns and villages here lose the Oriental +character entirely. + +When the atmosphere is clear the Caucasian mountains are to be seen +rising in three ranges between the Caspian and Black seas, forming +the boundary between Asia and Europe. The highest points are the +Elberus and the Kasbeck; these, according to a new geography, are of +the respective heights of 16,800 and 14,000 feet. The mountains +were covered with snow far down their sides. + +7th September. Today I travelled one stage as far as Suram: I +could not proceed any further, as twelve horses were ordered for an +officer who was returning from a bathing-place, with his wife and +friends. + +Suram lies in a fruitful valley, in the centre of which rises a +beautiful mountain with the ruins of an old castle. In order to +dispel my bad humour I took a walk to this old castle. Although it +was considerably ruined, the lofty arches, stately walls, and +extensive fortifications showed that the noble knight had lived +tolerably sumptuously. On the return nothing astonished me more +than the number of animals yoked to the ploughs. The fields lay in +the finest plains, the ground was loose and free from stones, and +yet each plough was drawn by twelve or fourteen oxen. + +8th September. The mountains drew nearer and nearer together, the +prospect became more beautiful; climbing plants, wild hops, vines, +etc., twined round the trees to their highest branches, and the +underwood grew so thick and luxuriantly, that it called to my mind +the vegetation of the Brazils. + +The third stage was for the greater part of the way along the banks +of the river Mirabka through a narrow valley. The road between the +river and the mountain side was so narrow, that in many places there +was only room for one carriage. We had frequently to wait ten or +twenty minutes to allow the cars loaded with wood, of which we met a +great number, to pass us, and yet this was called a post-road. + +Georgia has been for fifty year under Russian dominion, and only +within a recent time have roads been commenced here and there. +Fifty years hence, they may, perhaps, be finished, or fallen again +into decay. Bridges are as scarce as roads. The rivers, such as +the Mirabka are crossed in miserable ferry boats, those which are +shallower must be forded. In time of rain, or sudden thaw in the +snow mountains, the rivers are overflowed, and travellers must then +either wait some days or risk their lives. What a tremendous +difference between the colonies of Russia and England! + +Late in the evening, I arrived, wet through and covered with mud, at +the station, two wersti from Kutais. It is remarkable that the +post-houses are generally one or two wersti from the villages or +towns. A traveller, in consequence of this custom, is exposed to +the inconvenience of making a special journey if he has anything to +attend to in those places. + +9th September. Kutais contains 10,000 inhabitants, and lies in a +natural park; all round is the most luxuriant vegetation. The +houses are neat and ornamental; the green painted church towers and +barracks peep invitingly from between. The large river Ribon {314} +separates the town from the large citadel which very picturesquely +occupies a neighbouring hill. + +The dresses of the people are as various as round Tiflis; the +headgear of the Mingrelian peasants appears truly comic. They wear +round black felt caps, in the shape of a plate, fastened by a string +under the chin. The women frequently wear the Tartarian schaube, +over which they throw a veil, which, however, is put back so that +the face is seen. The men wear, in the mornings, and in rainy +weather, large black collars (called burki) of sheep's wool, or +felt, which reach below the knees. I must here mention that the +beauty for which the Georgians are so famous must not be sought for +among the common people. I did not find them particularly handsome. + +The carts which the peasants use are remarkable, the front part +rests upon curved pieces of wood, or sledge-bars; the hinder part +upon two small thick discs of wood. + +My stay in Kutais was caused by the want of horses; it was not till +2 o'clock in the afternoon that I could continue my journey. I had +two stages to reach the village of Marand, which lies on the river +Ribon, where the post-cars are changed for a boat, by which the +journey to Redutkale, on the Black Sea, is made. + +The first stage passes chiefly through fine woods, the second +presents an open view over fields and meadows; the houses and huts +are quite buried beneath bushes and trees. We met a number of +peasants who, although they had only a few fowls, eggs, fruits, +etc., to carry to the town for sale, were nevertheless on horseback. +There was abundance of grass and willow trees, and consequently of +horses and horned cattle. + +At Marand I stopped, for want of an inn, with a Cossack. These +people, who also live here as settlers, have pretty wooden cottages, +with two or three rooms, and a piece of land which they use as field +and garden. Some of them receive travellers, and know how to charge +enough for the miserable accommodation they afford. I paid twenty +kopecs (8d.) for a dirty room without a bed, and as much for a +chicken. Beyond that I had nothing, for the people are too lazy to +fetch what they have not by them. If I wanted bread, or anything +that my hosts had not got, I might seek for it myself. As I have +said before, it is only for an officer that they will make any +exertion. + +I had left Tiflis about 3 in the afternoon of the 5th of September, +and reached this place in the evening of the 9th, five days to +travel 274 wersti (195 miles). I call that a respectable Russian +post! + +The boat did not start for Redutkale, a distance of eighty wersti, +until the morning of the 11th. It was bad weather; and the Ribon, +otherwise a fine river, cannot be navigated during a strong wind, on +account of the projecting trunks of trees and logs. The scenery +still continued beautiful and picturesque. The stream flows between +woods, maize, and millet fields, and the view extends over hills and +mountains to the distant and gigantic Caucasus. Their singular +forms, peaks, sunken plateaus, split domes, etc. appear sometimes on +the right, sometimes on the left, in front, and behind, according to +the ever-changing windings of the river. We frequently halted and +landed, every one running to the trees. Grapes and figs were +abundant, but the former were as sour as vinegar, and the latter +hard and small. I found a single one ripe, and that I threw away +when I had tasted it. The fig-trees were of a size such as I had +never seen, either in India or Sicily. I believe the whole sap is +here converted into wood and leaves. In the same way, the great +height of the vines may be the cause of the grapes being so small +and bad. There must certainly be a great field for improved +cultivation here. + +12th September. Our boat did not go far. There was a smart breeze, +and as we were already near the Black Sea, we were obliged to remain +at anchor. + +13th September. The wind had dropped, and we could, without danger, +trust ourselves on the sea, upon which we had to sail for some +hours, from the principal arm of the Ribon to that on which +Redutkale was situated. There was indeed a canal leading from the +one to the other, but it can only be passed at very high water, as +it is much filled with drift sand. + +In Redutkale, a speculating Cossack host also received me, who had +three little rooms for guests. + +According to the Russian calendar, this was the last day of August. +On the 1st of September, the steamer was to come, and sail again +after two hours. I therefore hastened to the commandant of the town +to have my passport signed, and to request admittance to the ship. +Government steamers ply twice every month, on the 1st and 15th, from +Redutkale to Odessa, by way of Kertsch. Sailing vessels rarely +offer an opportunity of passage. These steamers always keep close +into the coast; they touch at eighteen stations (fortresses and +military posts), carry military transports of all kinds, and convey +all passengers free. Travellers must, however, be content with a +deck place: the cabins are few, and belong to the crew and higher +officers, who frequently travel from one station to another. No +places can be had by paying for them. + +The commandant prepared my passport and ticket directly. I cannot +avoid remarking in this place that the prolixity of writing by the +Russian government officials far exceeds that of the Austrians, +which I had formerly considered impossible. Instead of a simple +signature, I received a large written sheet, of which several copies +were taken, the whole ceremony occupying more than half an hour. + +The steamer did not arrive until the 5th (Russian calendar). +Nothing is more tedious than to wait from hour to hour for a +conveyance, especially when it is necessary, in addition, to be +ready to start at any moment. Every morning I packed up. I did not +venture to cook a fowl or anything else, for fear I should be called +away from it as soon as ready; and it was not until the evening that +I felt a little safer, and could walk out a little. + +From what I could see of the neighbourhood of Redutkale and +Mingrelia altogether, the country is plentifully furnished with +hills and mountains, large valleys lie between, and the whole are +covered with rich woods. The air is on that account moist and +unhealthy, and it rains very frequently. The rising sun draws up +such dense vapours, that they float like impenetrable clouds, four +or five feet above the earth. These vapours are said to be the +cause of many diseases, especially fever and dropsy. In addition to +this, the people are so foolish as to build their houses in among +the bushes and under thick trees, instead of in open, airy, and +sunny places. Villages are frequently passed, and scarcely a house +is to be seen. The men are remarkably idle and stupid; they are +tawny and lean. The natives seldom reach the age of sixty; and it +is said that the climate is even more unhealthy for strangers. + +Still I believe that much might be done in this country by +industrious settlers and agriculturists. There is abundance of +land, and three-fourths of it certainly lies uncultivated. By +thinning the woods and draining the land, the badness of the climate +would be lessened. It is already, even without cultivation, very +fruitful; and how much this might be increased by a proper and +rational mode of treatment. Rich grass grows everywhere, mixed with +the best herbs and clover. Fruit grows wild; the vines run up to +the tops of the highest trees. It is said that in time of rain the +ground is so soft, that only wooden ploughs are used. Turkish corn +is most generally grown, and a kind of millet, called gom. + +The inhabitants prepare the wine in the most simple manner. They +hollow out the trunk of a tree, and tread the grapes in it; they +then pour the juice into earthen vessels, and bury these in the +ground. + +The character of the Mingrelians is said to be altogether bad, and +they are generally looked upon as thieves and robbers; murders are +said not to be unfrequent. They carry off one another's wives, and +are much addicted to drunkenness. The father trains the children to +stealing, and the mother to obscenity. + +Colchis or Mingrelia lies at the end of the Black Sea, and towards +the north on the Caucasian mountains. The neighbouring people were +formerly known under the name of Huns and Alani. The Amazons are +said to have dwelt in the country between the Caucasus and the +Caspian Sea. + +The little town of Redutkale may contain about 1,500 inhabitants. +The men are so indolent that, during the five days that I passed +here, I could not procure a few grapes or figs for love or money. I +went daily to the bazaar, and never found any for sale. The people +are too lazy to bring wood from the forest; they work only when the +greatest necessity compels them, and require to be paid +exorbitantly. I paid as much, if not more, for eggs, milk, and +bread as I would have done in Vienna. It might well be said that +the people are here in the midst of plenty, and yet almost starve. + +I was not better pleased by the thoughtless and meaningless +performance of religious ceremonies among these people. On all +occasions, they cross themselves before eating or drinking, before +entering a room, before putting on an article of clothing, etc. The +hands have nothing else to do but to make crosses. But the most +provoking thing of all is, that they stand still before every church +they pass, bow half a dozen times, and cross themselves without end. +When they are travelling, they stop their carriages to perform this +ceremony. + +While I was at Redutkale a vessel sailed. The priests were brought +on board, and were obliged to go all over the ship, and pronounce a +blessing upon it on every corner of the sails. They crept into +every cabin or hole, and at last blessed the sailors, who laughed at +them for their trouble. + +I constantly found that there was less real religion in those places +where there was the most parade made of it. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. EUROPEAN RUSSIA. + + + +DEPARTURE FROM REDUTKALE--ATTACK OF CHOLERA--ANAPKA--SUSPICIOUS +SHIP--KERTSCH--THE MUSEUM--TUMULI--CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY-- +THEODOSIA (CAFFA)--PRINCE WORONZOFF'S PALACE--THE FORTRESS OF +SEWASTOPOL--ODESSA. + +On the 17th of September, at 9 in the morning, the steamer arrived, +and an hour afterwards I was seated on the deck. The vessel was +called Maladetz; it was 140 horse power, and the commandant's name +was Zorin. + +The distance from Redutkale to Kertsch is only 420 miles in a +straight line, but for us, who continually kept close to the shore, +it amounted to nearly 580. + +The view of the Caucasus--the hills and headlands--the rich and +luxuriant country remains fresh in my memory to this day. In a +charming valley lies the village Gallansur, the first station, at +which we stopped for a short time. + +Towards 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached the fortified town +Sahun, which lies partly on the shore, and partly on a broad hill. +Here I saw, for the first time, Cossacks in full uniform; all those +I had previously seen were very badly dressed, and had no military +appearance; they wore loose linen trousers, and long ugly coats, +reaching down to their heels. These, however, wore close-fitting +spencers with breast-pockets, each of which was divided for eight +cartridges, wide trousers, which sat in folds upon the upper part of +the body, and dark blue cloth caps, trimmed with fur. They rowed a +staff officer to the ship. + +18th September. We remained the whole day in Sahun. The coal- +boats, from some inconceivable negligence, had not arrived; the +coals were taken on board after we had been some time at anchor, and +our supply was not completed until 6 o'clock in the evening, when we +again started. + +19th September. During the night there was much storm and rain. I +begged permission to seat myself on the cabin steps, which I +received; but, after a few minutes, an order came from the +commandant to take me under cover. I was much surprised and pleased +at this politeness, but I was soon undeceived when I was led into +the large sailors' cabin. The people smelt horribly of brandy, and +some of them had evidently taken too much. I hastened back on to +the deck, where, in spite of the raging of the elements, I felt more +comfortable than among these well-bred Christians. + +In the course of the day we stopped at Bambur, Pizunta, Gagri, +Adlar, and other places. Near Bambur I observed majestic groups of +rocks. + +20th September. The Caucasian mountains were now out of sight, and +the thick woods were also succeeded by wide open spaces. We were +still troubled with wind, storm, and rain. + +The engineer of the ship, an Englishman, Mr. Platt, had accidentally +heard of my journey (perhaps from my passport, which I had to give +up on entering the ship); he introduced himself to me today, and +offered me the use of his cabin during the day-time; he also spoke +to one of the officers for me, and succeeded in obtaining a cabin +for me, which, although it joined the sailors' cabin, was separated +from it by a door. I was very thankful to both the gentlemen for +their kindness, which was the greater, as the preference was given +to me, a stranger, over the Russian officers, of whom at least half +a dozen were on deck. + +We remained a long time at Sissasse. This is an important station; +there is a fine fortress upon a hill--round it stand pretty wooden +houses. + +21st September. This was a terrible night! One of the sailors, who +was healthy and well the day before, and had taken his supper with a +good appetite, was suddenly attacked with cholera. The cries of the +poor fellow disturbed me greatly, and I went upon deck, but the +heavy rain and piercing cold were not less terrible. I had nothing +but my mantle, which was soon wet through; my teeth chattered; the +frost made me shake throughout; so there was nothing to be done but +to go below again--to stop my ears, and remain close to the dying +man. He was, in spite of all help, a corpse before the end of eight +hours. The dead body was landed in the morning, at Bschada; it was +packed in a heap of sail-cloth, and kept secret from the travellers. +The cabin was thoroughly washed with vinegar, and scoured, and no +one else was attacked. + +I did not at all wonder that there was sickness on board, only I had +expected it would be among the poor soldiers, who were day and night +upon the deck, and had no further food than dry, black bread, and +had not even mantles or covering; I saw many half-frozen from cold, +dripping with rain, gnawing a piece of bread: how much greater +suffering must they have to undergo in the winter time! The passage +from Redutkale to Kertsch, I was told, then frequently occupied +twenty days. The sea is so rough that it is difficult to reach the +stations, and sometimes the ship lies for days opposite them. If it +should happen that a poor soldier has to proceed the whole distance, +it is really a wonder that he should reach the place of his +destination alive. According to the Russian system, however, the +common man is not worthy of any consideration. + +The sailors are indeed better, but, nevertheless, not well provided +for; they receive bread and spirits, a very small quantity of meat, +and a soup made of sour cabbage, called bartsch, twice a day. + +The number of officers, their wives, and soldiers on the deck, +increased at every station, very few being landed from the ship. + +The deck was soon so covered with furniture, chests, and trunks, +that there was scarcely a place to sit down, except on the top of a +pile of goods. I never saw such an encampment on board a ship. + +In fine weather, this life afforded me much amusement; there was +always something new to see; every one was animated and happy, and +appeared to belong to the same family; but if a heavy rain came on +suddenly, or a wave washed over the deck, the passengers began to +shout and cry, and the contents of every chest became public. One +cried, "How shall I shelter my sugar-loaves?" another, "Oh, my meal +will be spoiled." There a woman complained that her bonnet would be +full of spots; here, another, that the uniform of her husband would +certainly be injured. + +At some of the smaller stations, we had taken on board sick +soldiers, in order to carry them to the hospital at Kertsch. This +was done, as I was told, less on account of nursing them than as a +measure of safety. The former they would have received at the place +they came from; but all the small villages between Redutkale and +Anapka are still frequently disturbed by the Circassian-Tartars, who +undauntedly break out from the mountains and rob and murder. Very +lately they were reported to have fired a cannon at one of the +government steamers. The Circassians {320a} are as partial to the +Russians as the Chinese are to the English! + +The poor invalids were also laid on the deck, and but little +attention was shown to them, beyond stretching a sail-cloth over +them, to keep the wind partially off; but when it rained heavily, +the water ran in on all sides, so that they lay half in the wet. + +22nd September. We saw the handsome town and fortress Nowa +Russiska, which contains some very pretty private houses, hospitals, +barracks, and a fine church. The town and fortress lie upon a hill, +and were founded only ten years since. + +In the evening, we reached Anapka, which place was taken by the +Turks in 1829. Here the finely wooded mountains and hills, and the +somewhat desolate steppes {320b} of the Crimea commence. + +In the course of the day I had an opportunity of observing the +watchfulness and penetration of our commandant. A sailing-vessel +was quietly at anchor in a small creek. The commandant, perceiving +it, immediately ordered the steamer to stop, ordered out a boat, and +sent an officer to see what it was doing there. So far everything +had gone correctly; for in Russia, where the limits of every foreign +fly is known, what a whole ship is about, must also be seen to. But +now comes the comical part of the affair. The officer went near the +ship, but did not board it, and did not ask for the ship's papers, +but merely called out to the captain to know what he was about +there? The captain answered that contrary winds had compelled him +to anchor there, and that he waited for a favourable one to sail to +this place and that. This answer satisfied the officer and the +commandant completely. To me it seemed just as if any one was asked +whether he was an honourable man or a rogue, and then trusted to his +honour when he gave himself a good character. + +23rd September. Another bad night; nothing but wind and rain. How +I pitied the poor, sick fellows, and even those who were well, +exposed to this weather on the deck. + +Towards noon we arrived at Kertsch; the town can be seen very well +from the sea, as it stretches out in a semi-circle on the shore, and +rises a little up the hill Mithridates {321}, which lies behind. +Higher up the hill is the museum, in the style of a Grecian temple-- +circular, and surrounded with columns. The summit of the mountain +ends in a fine group of rocks, between which stand some obelisks and +monuments, which belong to the old burial-place. The country round +is a steppe, covered with artificial earth-mounds, which make the +graves of a very remote period. Besides the Mithridates, there is +no hill or mountain to be seen. + +Kertsch lies partly on the spot where Pantikapaum formerly stood. +It is now included in the government of Tauria; it is fortified, has +a safe harbour, and rather considerable commerce. The population +amounts to 12,000. The town contains many fine houses, which are +chiefly of modern date; the streets are broad, and furnished with +raised pavements for foot passengers. There is much gaiety in the +two squares on Sundays and festivals. A market of every possible +thing, but especially provisions, is held there. The extraordinary +vulgarity and rudeness of the common people struck me greatly; on +all sides I heard only abuse, shouting, and cursing. To my +astonishment I saw dromedaries yoked to many loaded carts. + +The Mithridates is 500 feet high, and beautiful flights of stone +steps and winding paths lead up its sides, forming the only walks of +the towns' people. This hill must formerly have been used by the +ancients as a burial-place, for everywhere, if the earth is only +scraped away, small narrow sarcophagi, consisting of four stone +slabs, are found. The view from the top is extensive, but tame; on +three sides a treeless steppe, whose monotony is broken only by +innumerable tumuli; and on the fourth side, the sea. The sight of +that is everywhere fine, and here the more so, as one sea joins +another, namely, the Black Sea and the Sea of Asoph. + +There was a tolerable number of ships in the roads, but very far +short of four or six hundred, as the statements in the newspapers +gave out, and as I had hoped to see. + +On my return, I visited the Museum, which consists of a single +apartment. It contains a few curiosities from the tumuli, but +everything handsome and costly that was found was taken to the +Museum at St. Petersburgh. The remains of sculptures, bas-reliefs, +sarcophagi, and epitaphs are very much decayed. What remains of the +statues indicates a high state of art. The most important thing in +the Museum is a sarcophagus of white marble, which, although much +dilapidated, is still very beautiful. The exterior is full with +fine reliefs, especially on one side, where a figure, in the form of +an angel, is represented holding two garlands of fruit together over +its head. On the lid of the sarcophagus are two figures in a +reclining posture. The heads are wanting; but all the other parts, +the bodies, their position, and the draping of the garments, are +executed in a masterly manner. + +Another sarcophagus of wood, shows great perfection in the carving +and turning of the wood. + +A collection of earthen jars, water jugs and lamps, called to my +mind those in the museum at Naples. The jars, burnt and painted +brown, have a form similar to those discovered at Herculaneum and +Pompeii. The water jugs are furnished with two ears, and are so +pointed at the bottom, that they will not stand unless rested +against something. This form of vessel is still used in Persia. +Among other glass-ware, there were some flasks which consisted +almost entirely of long necks, bracelets, rings and necklaces of +gold; some small four-cornered embossed sheets, which were worn +either on the head or chest, and some crowns, made of laurel +wreaths, were very elegant. There were chains and cauldrons in +copper, and ugly grotesque faces and ornaments of various kinds, +which were probably fixed on the exterior of the houses. I saw some +coins which were remarkably well stamped. + +I had now to visit the tumuli. I sought long and in vain for a +guide: very few strangers come to this place, and there are +consequently no regular guides. At last there was nothing left for +me but to apply to the Austrian Vice-consul, Herr Nicolits. This +gentleman was not only willing to comply with my wish, but was even +so obliging as to accompany me himself. + +The tumuli are monuments of an entirely peculiar character; they +consist of a passage about sixty feet long, fourteen broad, and +twenty-five high, and a very small chamber at the end of the +passage. The walls of the passage are sloping, like the roof of a +house, and contract so much at the top, that at the utmost one foot +is left between. They are built of long and very thick stone slabs, +which are placed over each other in such a way that the upper row +projects about six or seven inches beyond the under one. Upon the +opening at the top are placed massive slabs of stone. Looking down +from the entrance, the walls appear as if fluted. The room, which +is a lengthened quadrangle, is spanned by a small arched roof, and +is built in the same manner as the passage. After the sarcophagus +was deposited in the room, the whole monument was covered with +earth. + +The fine marble sarcophagus which is in the Museum, was taken from a +tumulus which was situated near the quarantine house, and is +considered to be that of King Bentik. + +The greater number of the monuments were opened by the Turks; the +remainder were uncovered by the Russian government. Many of the +bodies were found ornamented with jewels and crowns of leaves, like +those in the Museum; an abundance of coins was also found. + +The 26th of September was a great festival among the Russians, who +celebrated the finding of the cross. The people brought bread, +pastry, fruit, etc., to the church, by way of sacrifice. The whole +of these things were laid up in one corner. After the service, the +priest blessed them, gave some few morsels to the beggars round him, +and had the remainder packed into a large basket and sent to his +house. + +In the afternoon, nearly the whole of the people went to the burial- +ground. The common people took provisions with them, which were +also blessed by the priests, but were hastily consumed by the +owners. + +I saw only a few people in the Russian dress. This consists, both +for men and women, of long wide blue cloth coats; the men wear low +felt hats, with broad brims, and have their hair cut even all round; +the women bind small silk kerchiefs round their heads. + +Before finishing my account of Kertsch, I must mention that there +are naphtha springs in the neighbourhood; but I did not visit them, +as they were described to me as precisely similar to those at +Tiflis. + +The next part of my journey was to Odessa. I could go either by sea +or land. The latter was said to present many objects of beauty and +interest; but I preferred the former, as I had in the first place no +great admiration of the Russian post; and, secondly, I was heartily +anxious to turn my back upon the Russian frontiers. + +On the 27th of September, at 8 in the morning, I went on board the +Russian steamer Dargo, of 100 horse power. The distance from Odessa +to Constantinople amounts to 420 miles. The vessel was handsome and +very clean, and the fare very moderate. I paid for the second cabin +thirteen silver roubles, or twenty florins fifty kreutzers (2 pounds +1s. 4d.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian +steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was +told, pays for his office. All the travellers are compelled to take +their meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who +have often to pay him their last kopecs. + +About afternoon we came to Feodosia (Caffa), which was formerly the +largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was called the +second Constantinople. It was at the height of its prosperity about +the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genueser. +Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of 200,000. +It has now declined to a minor town, with 5,000 inhabitants. + +Half-ruined fortification walls and towers of the time of Genueser +remain, as well as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a +Christian church by the Russians. + +The town lies upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the declivity of +barren hills. Pretty gardens between the houses form the only +vegetation to be seen. + +28th September. We stopped this morning at Jalta, a very small +village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded +by the Prince Woronzoff. It is built in pure Gothic style, and +stands upon a hill outside of the village. The country is again +delightful here, and beautiful hills and mountains, partly covered +with fine woods, partly rising in steep precipices, extend close to +the sea-shore. + +The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta. I took advantage of +the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of +Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castle which is considered one of the +curiosities of the Crimea. The road to it passed over low ranges of +hills close to the sea through a true natural park, which had here +and there been embellished by the help of art. The most elegant +castles and country-houses belonging to the Russian nobles are +seated between woods and groves, gardens and vineyards, in open +spaces on hills and declivities. The whole prospect is so charming, +that it appears as if prosperity, happiness, and peace, only reigned +here. + +The first villa which attracted me was that of Count Leo Potocki. +The building is extremely tasteful. The gardens were laid out with +art and sumptuousness. The situation is delightful, with an +extensive view of the sea and neighbourhood. + +A second magnificent building, which, however, is more remarkable +for magnitude than beauty of construction, lies near the sea-shore. +It resembles an ordinary square house with several stories; and, as +I was informed, was built as a country bathing-place of the emperor, +but had not yet been made use of. This castle is called Oriander. + +Far handsomer than this palace was the charming country-house of +Prince Mirzewsky. It is seated on a hill, in the centre of a +magnificent park, and affords a delightful view of the mountains and +sea. The principal front is Gothic. + +The villa of Prince Gallizin is built entirely in the Gothic style. +The pointed windows, and two towers of which, decorated with a +cross, give to it the appearance of a church, and the beholder +involuntarily looks for the town to which this gorgeous building +belongs. + +This place lies nearly at the extremity of the fine country. From +here the trees are replaced by dwarf bushes, and finally by +brambles; the velvety-green turf is succeeded by stony ground, and +steep rocks rise behind, at the foot of which lie a quantity of +fallen fragments. + +Even here very pretty seats are to be seen; but they are entirely +artificial, and want the charm of nature. + +After travelling about thirteen wersti, the road winds round a stony +hill, and the castle of Prince Woronzoff comes in sight in its +entire extent. The appearance of it is not by any means so fine as +I had imagined. The castle is built entirely of stone, of the same +colour as the neighbouring rocks. If a large park surrounded the +castle, it would stand out more prominently, and the beauty and +magnificence of its architecture would be better shown. There is, +indeed, a well laid out garden, but it is yet new and not very +extensive. The head gardener, Herr Kebach (a German), is a master +in his art; he well knows how to manage the naked barren land, so +that it will bear not only the ordinary trees, plants, and flowers, +but even the choicest exotic plants. + +The castle is built in the Gothic style, and is full of towers, +pinnacles, and buttresses, such as are seen in similar well +preserved buildings of olden time. The principal front is turned +towards the sea. Two lions, in Carrara marble, artistically +sculptured, lie in comfortable ease at the top of the majestic +flight of steps which lead from the castle far down to the sea- +shore. + +The interior arrangement of the castle reminded me of the "Arabian +Nights;" every costly thing from all parts of the world, such as +fine woods and choice works of art, is to be seen here in the +greatest perfection and splendour. There are state apartments in +Oriental, Chinese, Persian, and European styles; and, above all, a +garden saloon, which is quite unique, for it not only contains the +finest and rarest flowers but even the tallest trees. Palms, with +their rich leafy crowns, extend to a great height, climbing plants +cover the walls, and on all sides are flowers and blossoms. The +most delightful odour diffused itself through the air, cushioned +divans stood half-buried under the floating leaves; in fact, +everything combined to produce the most magical impression upon the +senses. + +The owner of this fairy palace was unfortunately absent at a fete on +a neighbouring estate. I had letters to him, and should have been +glad to have made his acquaintance, as I had heard him spoken of +here, both by rich and poor, as a most noble, just and generous man. +I was, indeed, persuaded to wait his return, but I could not accept +this offer, as I should have had to wait eight days for the arrival +of the next steamer, and my time was already very limited. + +In the neighbourhood of the castle is a Tartar village, of which +there are many in the Crimea. The houses are remarkable for their +flat earth roofs, which are more used by the inhabitants than the +interior of the huts; as the climate is mild and fine they pass the +whole day at their work on the roofs, and at night sleep there. The +dress of the men differs somewhat from that of the Russian peasants, +the women dress in the Oriental fashion, and have their faces +uncovered. + +I never saw such admirably planted and clean vineyards as here. The +grapes are very sweet, and of a good flavour; the wine light and +good, and perfectly suited for making champagne, which indeed is +sometimes done. I was told that more than a hundred kinds of grapes +are grown in the gardens of Prince Woronzoff. + +When I returned to Jalta, I was obliged to wait more than two hours, +as the gentlemen with whom I was to go on board had not yet finished +their carouse. At last, when they broke up, one of them, an officer +of the steamer, was so much intoxicated that he could not walk. Two +of his companions and the landlord dragged him to the shore. The +jolly-boat of the steamer was indeed there, but the sailors refused +to take us, as the jolly-boat was ordered for the captain. We were +obliged to hire a boat, for which each had to pay twenty kopecs +(8d.) The gentlemen knew that I did not speak Russian but they did +not think I partially understood the language. I, however, +overheard one of them say to the other "I have no change with me, +let us leave the woman to pay." Upon this the other turned round to +me, and said in French, "The share that you have to pay is twenty +silver kopecs." These were gentlemen who made pretensions to +honesty and honour. + +29th September. Today we stopped at the strong and beautiful +fortress Sewastopol. The works are partly situated at the entrance +of the harbour, and partly in the harbour itself; they are executed +in massive stone, and possess a number of towers and outworks which +defend the entrance to the harbour. The harbour itself is almost +entirely surrounded by hills, and is one of the safest and most +excellent in the world. It can hold the largest fleets, and is so +deep that the most gigantic men-of-war can lie at anchor close to +the quays. Sluices, docks and quays have been constructed in +unlimited splendour and magnificence. The whole of the works were +not quite finished, and there was an unparalleled activity apparent. +Thousands of men were busy on all sides. Among the workmen I was +shown many of the captured Polish nobles who had been sent here as a +punishment for their attempt, in 1831, to shake of the Russian yoke. + +The works of the fortress and the barracks are so large that they +will hold about 30,000 men. + +The town itself is modern, and stands upon a range of barren hills. +The most attractive among the buildings is the Greek church, as it +stands quite alone on a hill, and is built in the style of a Grecian +temple. The library is situated on the highest ground. There is +also an open-columned hall near the club, with stone steps leading +to the sea-shore, which serves as the most convenient passage to the +town for those who land here. A Gothic monument to the memory of +Captain Cozar, who distinguished himself greatly at the battle of +Navarino, and was killed there, does not less excite the curiosity +of the traveller. Like the church, it stands alone upon a hill. + +The streets here, as in all the new Russian towns, are broad and +clean. + +30th September. Early in the morning we reached Odessa. The town +looks very well from the sea. It stands high; and consequently many +of the large and truly fine buildings can be seen at one glance. +Among these are the Palace of Prince Woronzoff, the Exchange, the +government offices, several large barracks, the quarantine +buildings, and many fine private houses. Although the surrounding +country is flat and barren, the number of gardens and avenues in the +town give it a pleasant appearance. In the harbour was a perfect +forest of masts. By far the greater number of ships do not lie +here, but in the quarantine harbour. Most of the ships come from +the Turkish shore, and are obliged to pass through a quarantine of +fourteen days, whether they have illness on board or not. + +Odessa, the chief town of the government of Cherson, is, from its +situation on the Black Sea, and at the mouth of the Dniester and +Dnieper, one of the most important places of commerce in South +Russia. It contains 50,000 inhabitants, was founded in 1794, and +declared a free port in 1817. A fine citadel entirely commands the +harbour. + +The Duke of Richelieu contributed most to the advancement of Odessa; +for after having made several campaigns against his native country +(France) in an emigrant corps, he went to Russia; and in 1803 was +made governor-general of Cherson. He filled this post until 1814, +during which time he brought the town to its present position. When +he was appointed it contained scarcely 5,000 inhabitants. One of +the finest streets bears the name of the duke, and several squares +are also named in honour of him. + +I remained only two days in Odessa. On the third I started by the +steamer for Constantinople. I went through the town and suburbs in +every direction. The finest part lies towards the sea, especially +the boulevard, which is furnished with fine avenues of trees, and +offers a delightful promenade; a life-size statue of the Duke +Richelieu forms a fine ornament to it. Broad flights of stone steps +lead from here down to the sea-shore; and in the background are rows +of handsome palaces and houses. The most remarkable among them are +the Government House, the Hotel St. Petersburgh, and the Palace of +Prince Woronzoff, built in the Italian style, with a tasteful garden +adjoining. At the opposite end of the boulevard is the Exchange, +also built in the Italian style, and surrounded by a garden. Not +far from this is the Academy of Arts, a rather mediocre one-story +building. The Theatre, with a fine portico, promises much outside, +but is nothing great within. Next to the theatre is the Palais +Royal, which consists of a pretty garden, round which are ranged +large handsome shops, filled with costly goods. Many articles are +also hung out, but the arrangement is not near so tasteful as is the +case in Vienna or Hamburgh. + +Among the churches the Russian cathedral is the most striking. It +has a lofty arched nave and a fine dome. The nave rests upon strong +columns covered with brilliant white plaster, which looks like +marble. The decorations of the churches with pictures, lamps, and +lustres, etc., is rich but not artistic. This was the first church +in which I found stoves, and really it was quite necessary that +these should be used, the difference of temperature between this +place and Jalta was very considerable for the short distance. + +A second Russian church stands in the new bazaar; it has a large +dome surrounded by four smaller ones, and has a very fine appearance +from the exterior; inside it is small and plain. + +The Catholic church, not yet quite finished, vies in point of +architecture with the Russian cathedral. + +The streets are all broad, handsome, and regular, it is almost +impossible to lose your way in this town. In every street there are +fine large houses, and this is the case even in the most remote +parts as well. + +In the interior of the town lies the so-called "crown garden," which +is not, indeed, very large or handsome, but still affords some +amusement, as great numbers of people assemble here on Sundays, and +festivals, and a very good band of music plays here in summer under +a tent; in winter the performances take place in a plain room. + +The botanic garden, three wersti from the town, has few exotic +plants, and is much neglected. The autumn changes, which I again +saw here for the first time for some years, made a truly sad +impression upon me. I could almost have envied the people who live +in hot climates, although the heat is very troublesome. + +The German language is understood by almost all but the lowest +orders in Odessa. + +On leaving the Russian dominions I had as much trouble with the +passport regulations as on entering. The passport which was +obtained on entering must be changed for another for which two +silver roubles are paid. Besides this, the traveller's name has to +be three times printed in the newspaper, so that if he has debts, +his creditors may know of his departure. With these delays it takes +at least eight days, frequently, however, two or three weeks to get +away; it is not, however, necessary to wait for these forms, if the +traveller provides security. + +The Austrian Consul, Herr Gutenthal, answered for me, and I was thus +able to bid adieu to Russia on the 2nd of October. That I did this +with a light heart it is not necessary for me to assure my readers. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS. + + + +CONSTANTINOPLE--CHANGES--TWO FIRES--VOYAGE TO GREECE--QUARANTINE AT +AEGINA--A DAY IN ATHENS--CALAMACHI--THE ISTHMUS--PATRAS--CORFU. + +Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople; we +continued out at sea and did not land anywhere. The distance is 420 +miles. The ship belonged to the Russian government, it was named +Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean, and neat. + +In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Russians, might +not be too much regretted, one of them was so good at the end of the +passage as to behave in a manner that was far from polite. During +the last night which was very mild and warm, I went out of the close +cabin on to the deck, and placed myself not far from the compass- +box, where I soon began to sleep, wrapt in my mantle. One of the +sailors came, and giving me a kick with his foot, told me to leave +the place. I thanked him quietly for the delicate way in which he +expressed himself, and requesting him to leave me at peace, +continued to sleep. + +Among the passengers were six English sailors, who had taken a new +ship to Odessa, and were returning home. I spoke with them several +times, and had soon quite won them. As they perceived that I was +without any companion, they asked me if I spoke enough Turkish to be +able to get what I wanted from the ship's people and porters. On my +answering that I did, they offered to manage everything for me if I +would go on shore with them. I willingly accepted their offer. + +As we approached land a customs' officer came on board to examine +our luggage. In order to avoid delay I gave him some money. When +we landed I wanted to pay, but the English sailors would not allow +it; they said I had paid for the customs' officer, and it was +therefore their time to pay for the boat. I saw that I should only +have affronted them if I had pressed them further to receive the +money. They settled with the porter for me, and we parted good +friends. How different was the behaviour of these English sailors +from that of the three well-bred Russian gentlemen at Jalta! + +The passage into the Bosphorus, as well as the objects of interest +in Constantinople, I have already described in my journey to the +Holy Land. I went immediately to my good friend Mrs. Balbiani; but, +to my regret, found that she was not in Constantinople; she had +given up her hotel. I was recommended to the hotel "Aux Quatre +Nations," kept by Madame Prust. She was a talkative French woman, +who was always singing the praises of her housekeeping, servants, +cookery, etc., in which, however, none of the travellers agreed with +her. She charged forty piasters (8s.), and put down a good round +sum in the bill for servants' fees and such like. + +Since my last stay here a handsome new wooden bridge had been +erected over the Golden Horn, and the women did not seem to be so +thickly veiled as on my first visit to Constantinople. Many of them +wore such delicately woven veils that their faces could almost be +seen through them: others had only the forehead and chin covered, +and left their eyes, nose, and cheeks exposed. + +The suburb of Pera looked very desolate. There had been a number of +fires, which were increased by two during my stay; they were called +"small," as by the first only a hundred and thirty shops, houses, +and cottages, and by the second, only thirty were burned to the +ground. They are accustomed to reckon the number destroyed by +thousands. + +The first fire broke out in the evening as we were seated at table. +One of the guests offered to accompany me to see it, as he thought I +should be interested by the sight if I had not seen such a one +before. The scene of the fire was rather distant from our house, +but we had scarcely gone a hundred steps when we found ourselves in +a great crowd of people, who all carried paper lanterns, {330a} by +which the streets were lighted. Every one was shouting and rushing +wildly about; the inhabitants of the houses threw open their windows +and inquired of the passers by the extent of the danger, and gazed +with anxiety and trembling at the reflection of the flames in the +sky. Every now and then sounded the shrill cry of "Guarda! guarda!" +(take care) of the people, who carried small fire-engines {330b} and +buckets of water on their shoulders, and knocked everything over +that was in their way. Mounted and foot soldiers and watchmen +rushed about, and Pashas rode down with their attendants to urge the +people on in extinguishing the fire, and to render them assistance. +Unfortunately almost all these labours are fruitless. The fire +takes such hold of the wooden buildings painted with oil colours, +and spreads with such incredible rapidity that it is stopped only by +open spaces or gardens. One fire often destroys several thousand +houses. The unfortunate inhabitants have scarce time to save +themselves; those who live some distance off hastily pack their +effects together and hold themselves prepared for flight at any +moment. It may easily be supposed that thieves are not rare on such +occasions, and it too often happens that the few things the poor +people have saved are torn away from them in the bustle and +confusion. + +The second fire broke out in the following night. Every one had +retired to sleep, but the fire-watch rushed through the street, +knocking with his iron-mounted staff at the doors of the houses and +waking the people. I sprang terrified out of bed, ran to the +window, and saw in the direction of the fire a faint red light in +the sky. In a few hours the noise and redness ceased. They have at +last begun to build stone houses, not only in Pera but also in +Constantinople. + +I left Constantinople on the evening of the 7th of October, by the +French steamer Scamander, one hundred and sixty-horse power. + +The passage from Constantinople to Smyrna, and through the Greek +Archipelago is described in my journey to the Holy Land, and I +therefore pass on at once to Greece. + +I had been told, in Constantinople, that the quarantine was held in +the Piraeus (six English miles from Athens), and lasted only four +days, as the state of health in Turkey was perfectly satisfactory. +Instead of this, I learnt on the steamer that it was held at the +island of AEgina (sixteen English miles from Piraeus), and lasted +twelve days, not on account of the plague but of the cholera. For +the plague it lasts twenty days. + +On the 10th of October we caught sight of the Grecian mainland. +Sailing near the coast, we saw on the lofty prominence of a rock +twelve large columns, the remains of the Temple of Minerva. Shortly +afterwards we came near the hill on which the beautiful Acropolis +stands. I gazed for a long time on all that was to be seen; the +statues of the Grecian heroes, the history of the country came back +to my mind; and I glowed with desire to set my foot on the land +which, from my earliest childhood, had appeared to me, after Rome +and Jerusalem, as the most interesting in the earth. How anxiously +I sought for the new town of Athens--it stands upon the same spot as +the old and famous one. Unfortunately, I did not see it, as it was +hidden from us by a hill. We turned into the Piraeus, on which a +new town has also been built, but only stopped to deliver up our +passports, and then sailed to AEgina. + +It was already night when we arrived; a boat was quickly put out, +and we were conveyed to the quay near the quarantine station. +Neither the porters nor servants of this establishment were there to +help us, and we were obliged to carry our own baggage to the +building, where we were shown into empty rooms. We could not even +get a light. I had fortunately a wax taper with me, which I cut +into several pieces and gave to my fellow-passengers. + +On the following morning I inquired about the regulations of the +quarantine--they were very bad and very dear. A small room, quite +empty, cost three drachmas (2s. 3d.) a-day; board, five drachmas +(3s. 9d.); very small separate portions, sixty or seventy leptas +(6d. or 7d.); the attendance, that is, the superintendence of the +guardian, two drachmas a-day; the supply of water, fifteen leptas +daily; the physician, a drachma; and another drachma on leaving, for +which he inspects the whole party, and examines the state of their +health. Several other things were to be had at a similar price, and +every article of furniture has to be hired. + +I cannot understand how it is that the government pays so little +attention to institutions which are established for sanitary +purposes and which the poor cannot avoid. They must suffer more +privation here than at home; they cannot have any hot meals, for the +landlord, who is not restricted in his prices, charges five or six +times the value. Several artizans who had come by the vessel were +put into the same room with a servant-girl. These people had no hot +food the twelve days; they lived entirely upon bread, cheese, and +dried figs. The girl, after a few days, begged me to let her come +into my room, as the people had not behaved properly to her. In +what a position the poor girl would have been placed if there had +not happened to be a woman among the passengers, or if I had refused +to receive her! + +Are such arrangements worthy of a public institution? Why are there +not a few rooms fitted up at the expense of government for the poor? +Why cannot they have a plain hot meal once in the day for a moderate +price? The poor surely suffer enough by not being able to earn +anything for so long a time, without being deprived of their hard +earnings in such a shameful manner! + +On the second day the court-yard was opened, and we were permitted +to walk about in an inclosed space a hundred and fifty paces wide, +on the sea-shore. The view was very beautiful; the whole of the +Cyclades lay before us: small, mountainous islands, mostly +uninhabited and covered over with woods. Probably they were +formerly a part of the mainland, and were separated by some violent +convulsion of nature. + +On the fourth day our range was extended, we were allowed to walk as +far as the hills surrounding the lazaretto under the care of a +guard. The remains of a temple stand upon these hills, fragments of +a wall, and a very much decayed column. The latter, which consisted +of a single piece of stone, was fluted, and, judging from the +circumference, had been very high. These ruins are said to be those +of the remarkably fine temple of Jupiter. + +21st October. This was the day we were set at liberty. We had +ordered a small vessel the evening before which was to take us to +Athens early in the morning. But my fellow-travellers would insist +upon first celebrating their freedom at a tavern, and from this +reason it was 11 o'clock before we started. I availed myself of +this time to look about the town and its environs. It is very small +and contains no handsome buildings. The only remains of antiquity +which I found were traces of the floor of a room in Mosaic work of +coloured stones. From what I could see of the island of AEgina, it +appeared extremely barren and naked, and it does not show any +indications of having been once a flourishing seat of art and +commerce. + +AEgina is a Greek island, about two square miles in extent, it was +formerly a separate state, and is said to have received the name of +AEgina from the daughter of AEsop. It is supposed that the first +money of Greece was coined in this island. + +Our passage to the Piraeus occupied a long time. There was not a +breath of wind, and the sailors were obliged to row; we did not land +at our destination until nearly 8 in the evening. We were first +visited by the health-officer, who read through the certificates +which we brought from the quarantine very leisurely. There was +unfortunately nobody among us who was inclined to make it more +understandable to him by a few drachmas. Of course we could not +neglect going to the police-office; but it was already closed, in +consequence of which we dare not leave the town. I went into a +large fine-looking coffee-house to look for night quarters. I was +conducted to a room in which half of the window-panes were broken. +The attendant said this was of no consequence, it was only necessary +to close the shutters. In other respects the room looked very well +but I had scarcely laid down on the bed when certain animals +compelled me to take to flight. I laid down upon the sofa, which +was no better. Lastly, I tried an easy chair, in which I passed the +night, not in the most agreeable position. + +I had already been told in AEgina of the great dirtiness and number +of vermin prevalent in the Piraean inns, and had been warned against +passing a night there; but what was to be done? for we could not +venture to leave the town without permission of the police. + +22nd October. The distance of the harbour of the Piraeus from +Athens is thirteen stadia, or six English miles. The road leads +through olive-plantations and between barren hills. The Acropolis +remains continually in sight; the town of Athens does not appear +till afterwards. I had intended to remain eight days in Athens, in +order to see all the monuments and remarkable places of the town and +environs leisurely; but I had scarcely got out of the carriage when +I heard the news of the breaking out of the Vienna revolution of +October. + +I had heard of the Paris revolution of the 24th February while in +Bombay; that of March in Germany, at Baghdad; and the other +political disturbances while at Tebris, Tiflis, and other places. +No news had astonished me so much in my whole life as that from +Vienna. My comfortable, peace-loving Austrians, and an overthrow of +the government! I thought the statement so doubtful, that I could +not give full credit to the verbal information of the Resident at +Baghdad; he was obliged to show it to me in black and white in the +newspaper to convince me. The affair of March so delighted and +inspirited me that I felt proud of being an Austrian. The later +occurrences of May, however, cooled my enthusiasm; and that of the +6th of October completely filled me with sadness and dejection. No +overthrow of a state ever began so promisingly. It would have stood +alone in history if the people had gone on in the spirit of the +March movement; and then to end in such a way! I was so grieved and +upset by the result of the 6th of October, that I lost all enjoyment +of everything. Moreover, I knew my friends were in Vienna, and I +had heard nothing from them. I should have hastened there +immediately if there had been an opportunity of doing so; but I was +obliged to wait till the next day, as the steamer did not start till +then. I made arrangements to go by it, and then took a cicerone to +show me all the objects of interest in the town, more for diversion +than pleasure. + +My fate had been very unfortunate; twelve days I had patiently +endured being shut up in the lazaretto at AEgina, in order to be +able to see the classic country, and now I was so anxious to leave +it that I had neither rest nor peace. + +Athens, the capital of the former State of Attica, is said to have +been founded in the year 1300, fourteen hundred years before Christ, +by Cecrops, from whom it then took the name of Cecropia, which in +after-times was retained only by the castle: under Eriktonius the +town was named "Athens." The original town stood upon a rock in the +centre of a plain, which was afterwards covered with buildings; the +upper part was called the "Acropolis," the lower the "Katopolis;" +only a part of the fortress, the famous Acropolis, remains on the +mountain, where the principal works of art of Athens stand. The +principal feature was the temple of Minerva, or the Parthenon; even +its ruins excite the astonishment of the world. The building is +said to have been 215 feet long, ninety-seven feet broad, and +seventy feet high; here stood the statue of Minerva, by Phidias. +This masterly work was executed in gold and ivory; its height was +forty-six feet, and it is said to have weighed more than 2000 +pounds. Fifty-five columns of the entrance to the temple still +remain, as well as parts of enormous blocks of marble which rest +upon them, and belonged to the arches and roof. + +This temple was destroyed by the Persians, and was again restored +with greater beauty by Pericles, about 440 years after the birth of +Christ. + +There are some fine remains of the temples of Minerva and Neptune, +and the extent of the amphitheatre can still be seen; there is but +little of the theatre of Bacchus remaining. + +Outside the Acropolis stands the temple of Theseus and that of +Jupiter Olympus; the one on the north, the other on the south side. +The former is in the Doric style, and is surrounded by thirty-six +fine columns. On the metope are represented the deeds of Theseus in +beautiful reliefs. The interior of the temple is full of fine +sculptures, epitaphs, and other works in stone, most of which belong +to the other temples, but are collected here. Outside the temple +stand several marble seats which have been brought from the +neighbouring Areopagus, the former place of assembly for the +patricians. Of the Areopagus itself nothing more is to be seen than +a chamber cut out of the rock, to which similarly cut steps lead. + +Of the temple of Jupiter Olympus so much of the foundation-walls +still remain as to show what its size was; there are also sixteen +beautiful columns, fifty-eight feet in height. This temple, which +was completed by Hadrian, is said to have exceeded in beauty and +magnificence all the buildings of Athens. The exterior was +decorated by one hundred and twenty fluted columns six feet in +diameter and fifty-nine in height. The gold and ivory statue of +Jupiter was, like that of Minerva, the production of the masterly +hand of Phidias. All the temples and buildings were of pure white +marble. + +Not far from the Areopagus is the Pnyx, where the free people of +Athens met in council. Of this nothing more remains than the +rostrum, hewn in the rock, and the seat of the scribe. What +feelings agitate the mind when it is remembered what men have stood +there and spoke from that spot! + +It was with sadness that I examined the cave near here where +Socrates was imprisoned and poisoned. Above this memorable grotto +stands a plain monument erected in memory of Philopapoe. + +The Turks surrounded the Acropolis with a broad wall, in the +building of which they made use of many fragments of columns and +other remains of the most beautiful temples. + +No remnants of antiquity are to be seen in the old town of Athens +except the Tower of the Winds, or, as others call it, Diogenes' +Lantern, a small temple in the form of an octagon, covered with fine +sculpture; also the monument of Lysicrates. This consists of a +pedestal, some columns, and a dome in the Corinthian style. + +The chapel Maria Maggiore, is said to have been built by the +Venetians, 700 years after Christ. Its greatest peculiarity is that +it was the first Christian church in Athens. + +The view of the whole country from the Acropolis is also very +interesting; there can be seen the Hymetos, the Pentelikon, towards +Eleusis, Marathon, Phylae, and Dekelea, the harbour, the sea, and +the course of the Ilissus. + +Athens contains a considerable number of houses, most of which are, +however, small and unimportant; the beautiful country-houses, on the +contrary, surrounded by tasty gardens, have a very agreeable +appearance. + +The small observatory was built by Baron Sina, the well-known banker +in Vienna, who is by birth a Greek. + +The royal palace, which is of modern date, is built of brilliant +white marble, in the form of a large quadrangle. On two sides, +which occupy a large part of the breadth of the wings, under a +peristyle, is a kind of small porch which rests upon pillars. The +one approach is for the ministers, ambassadors, etc., the other for +the royal family. With the exception of these two peristyles, the +whole building is very tasteless, and has not the least ornament; +the windows are in the ordinary form; and the high large walls +appear so naked, bare, and flat, that even the dazzling white of the +beautiful marble produces no effect; and it is only on a close +approach that it can be seen what a costly material has been +employed in the building. + +I regretted having seen this palace, especially opposite to the +Acropolis, on a spot which has made its works of art as classic as +its heroes. + +The palace is surrounded by a rather pretty though recently-formed +garden. In the front stand a few palms, which have been brought +from Syria, but they bear no fruit. The country is otherwise barren +and naked. + +The marble of which this palace is built, as well as the temples and +other buildings on the Acropolis, is obtained from the quarries of +the neighbouring mountain, Pentelikon, where the quantity of this +beautiful stone is so great that whole towns might be built of it. + +It was Sunday, and the weather was very fine, {335} to which I was +indebted for seeing all the fashionable world of Athens, and even +the Court, in the open promenade. This place is a plain avenue, at +the end of which a wooden pavilion is erected. It is not decorated +by either lawns or flower-beds. The military bands play every +Sunday from five to six. The King rides or drives with his Queen to +this place to show himself to the people. This time he came in an +open carriage with four horses, and stopped to hear several pieces +of music. He was in Greek costume; the Queen wore an ordinary +French dress. + +The Greek or rather Albanian costume is one of the handsomest there +is. The men wear full frocks, made of white perkal, which reach +from the hips to the knees, buskins from the knee to the feet, and +shoes generally of red leather. A close-fitting vest of coloured +silk without arms, over a silk shirt, and over this another close- +fitting spencer of fine red, blue, or brown cloth, which is fastened +only at the waist by a few buttons or a narrow band, and lays open +at the top. The sleeves of the spencer are slit up, and are either +left loose or slightly held together by some cords round the wrists; +the collar of the shirt is a little turned over. The vest and +spencer are tastily ornamented with cords, tassels, spangles and +buttons of gold, silver or silk, according to the means of the +wearer. The material, colour and ornament of the Zaruchi correspond +with those of the spencer and vest. A dagger is generally worn in +the girdle, together with a pair of pistols. The head-dress is a +red fez, with a blue tassel. + +The Greek dress is, as far as I saw, less worn by the women, and +even then much of its originality is lost. The principal part of +the dress consists of a French garment, which is open at the breast, +over this a close spencer is drawn on, which is also open, and the +sleeves wide and rather shorter than those of the gown. The front +edges of the gown and spencer are trimmed with gold lace. The women +and girls wear on their head a very small fez, which is bound round +with rose or other coloured crape. + +24th October. I left Athens by the small steamer Baron Kubeck, +seventy-horse power, and went as far as Calamachi (twenty-eight +miles). Here I had to leave the ship and cross the Isthmus, three +English miles broad. At Lutrachi we went on board another vessel. + +During the passage to Calamachi, which lasts only a few hours, the +little town of Megara is seen upon a barren hill. + +Nothing is more unpleasant in travelling than changing the +conveyance, especially when it is a good one, and you can only lose +by doing so. We were in this situation. Herr Leitenberg was one of +the best and most attentive of all captains that I had ever met with +in my travels, and we were all sorry to have to leave him and his +ship. Even in Calamachi, where we remained this day and the +following, as the ship which was to carry us on from Lutrachi did +not arrive, on account of contrary winds, until the 25th, he +attended to us with the greatest politeness. + +The village of Calamachi offers but little of interest, the few +houses have only been erected since the steamers plied, and the +tolerably high mountains on which it lies are for the most part +barren, or grown over with low brambles. We took several walks on +the Isthmus, and ascended minor heights, from whence on one side is +seen the gulf of Lepanto, and on the other the AEgean sea. In front +of us stood the large mountain, Akrokorinth, rising high above all +its companions. Its summit is embellished by a well-preserved +fortification, which is called the remains of the Castle of +Akrokorinth, and was used by the Turks in the last war as a +fortress. The formerly world-famous city of Corinth, after which +all the fittings of luxury and sumptuousness in the interior of +palaces were named, and which gave the name to a distinct order of +architecture, is reduced to a small town with scarcely a thousand +inhabitants, and lies at the foot of the mountain, in the midst of +fields and vineyards. It owes the whole of its present celebrity to +its small dried grapes, called currants. + +It is said that no town of Greece had so many beautiful statues of +stone and marble as Corinth. It was upon this isthmus, which +consists of a narrow ridge of mountains, and is covered with dense +fig-groves, in which stood a beautiful temple of Neptune, were held +the various Isthmian games. + +How greatly a people or a country may degenerate! The Grecian +people, at one time the first in the world, are now the furthest +behind! I was told by everyone that in Greece it was neither safe +to trust myself with a guide nor to wander about alone, as I had +done in other countries; indeed, I was warned here in Calamachi not +to go too far from the harbour, and to return before the dusk of the +evening. + +26th October. We did not start from Lutrachi until towards noon, by +the steamer Hellenos, of one hundred and twenty-horse power. + +We anchored for a few hours in the evening near Vostizza, the +ancient AEgion, now an unimportant village, at the foot of a +mountain. + +27th October, Patras. That portion of Greece which I had already +seen was neither rich in beauty, well cultivated, nor thickly +inhabited. Here were, at least, plains and hills covered with +meadows, fields, and vineyards. The town, on the Gulf of Lepanto, +was formerly an important place of trade; and before the breaking +out of the Greek revolution in 1821, contained 20,000 inhabitants; +it has now only 7,000. The town is defended by three fortresses, +one of which stands upon a hill, and two at the entrance of the +harbour. The town is neither handsome nor clean, and the streets +are narrow. The high mountains pleased me better; and their chain +can be followed for a considerable distance. + +I saw grapes here whose beauty and size induced me to buy some; but +I found them so hard, dry, and tasteless, that I did not even +venture to give them to a sailor, but threw them into the sea. + +28th October. Corfu is the largest of the Ionian Islands, which +formerly belonged to Greece, and lie at the entrance to the Adriatic +sea. Corfu, the ancient Corcyra, has been subject to England since +1815. + +The town of Corfu is situated in a more beautiful and fertile +country than Patras, and is far larger. It contains 18,000 +inhabitants. Adjoining the town are two romantic peaks of rock, +with strong fortified works, upon which stand the telegraph and the +lighthouse. Both are surrounded by artificial ditches, with draw- +bridges leading across. The immediate environs of the town, as well +as the whole island, are rich in delightful groves of olive and +orange trees. + +The town contains handsome houses and streets, with the exception of +the bye-streets, which are remarkably crooked and not very clean. +At the entrance of the town stands a large covered stone hall, in +which on one side are the stalls of the butchers; on the other, +those of the fishermen. In the open space in front are exposed the +choicest vegetables and most beautiful fruits. The theatre presents +a very pretty appearance; it would seem, from the sculptures upon +it, to have been used for a church. The principal square is large +and handsome; it is intersected by several avenues, and one side +faces the sea. The palace of the English governor stands here; a +fine building in the Grecian-Italian style. + +The famous and much-visited church of St. Spiridion is but small; it +contains many oil-paintings, some are good specimens of the old +Italian School. In a small dark chapel at the furthest end of the +church lies, in a silver sarcophagus, the body of St. Spiridion, who +is held in great veneration by the Ionians. The chapel is always +full of devotees who tenderly kiss the sarcophagus. + +On the 29th of October we saw the low mountain-country of Dalmatia, +and on the 30th I entered Trieste, whence I hastened on to Vienna +the day following. I was obliged to pass several days in the +greatest anxiety before the town, as it had been taken by storm on +the last day of October and was not opened until the 4th of +November. It was not until I had seen that all my relations were +safe that I was able to return thanks with a grateful heart to the +good Providence which, in all my dangers and troubles, had so +remarkably protected and preserved me in health and strength. With +equal gratitude I remembered those people who had treated me with +such kindness, had so disinterestedly received me, and through whose +help I had been enabled to overcome the frequent great hardships and +difficulties I encountered. + +From my readers I hope for a charitable judgment upon my book, which +in simple language describes what I have experienced, seen and felt, +and makes no higher pretension than that of being sincere and +trustworthy. + + + +NOTES. + + + +{9} The sextant is a mathematical instrument by which the different +degrees of longitude and latitude are determined, and the hour +known. The chronometers also are set by it. In order to find the +latitude the ship is in, an observation is taken at noon, but only +when the sun shines. This last is absolutely necessary, since it is +from the shadow cast upon the figures of the instrument that the +reckoning is made. The longitude can be determined both morning and +afternoon, as the sun, in this case, is not necessary. + +{11} The heat does not require to be very great in order to melt the +pitch in a ship's seams. I have seen it become soft, and form +bladders, when the thermometer stood at 81.5 in the sun. + +{12} Every four hours the state of the wind, how many miles the +vessel has made, in fact, every occurrence, is noted down in the log +with great exactitude. The captain is obliged to show this book to +the owners of the ship at the conclusion of the voyage. + +{13} Some years ago a sailor made an attempt to scale the Sugarloaf. +He succeeded in attaining the summit, but never came down again. +Most likely he made a false step and was precipitated into the sea. + +{14} The worthy Lallemand family received her, a few days after her +arrival into their house. + +{23a} The princess was three weeks old. + +{23b} Rockets and small fireworks are always let off at every +religious festival, some before the church, and others at a short +distance from it. The most ludicrous part of the affair is, that +this is always done in open day. + +{27} They are differently paid, according to what they can do. The +usual hire of a maid-servant is from ten to twelve shillings per +month; for a cook, twenty-four to forty; for a nurse, thirty-eight +to forty; for a skilful labourer, fifty to seventy. + +{34a} Truppa is a term used to designate ten mules driven by a +negro; in most instances a number of truppas are joined together, +and often make up teams or caravans of 100 or 200 mules. Everything +in the Brazils is conveyed upon mules. + +{34b} A cord, with a noose at the end; the native inhabitants of +South America use it so skilfully that they catch the most savage +animals with it. + +{38} Fazenda is equivalent to our word "plantation." + +{39} Kabi is African grass, which is planted all over the Brazils, +as grass never grows there of its own accord. It is very high and +reed-like. + +{40} Rost (roaster) is employed to denote partly a strip of low +brushwood, partly the place where a wood has stood previously to +being burnt. + +{42} All through Brazil, carna secca is one of the principal +articles of food, both for whites and blacks. It comes from Buenos +Ayres, and consists of beef cut into long, thin, broad stripes, +salted and dried in the open air. + +{47} Under the term "whites," are included not only those Europeans +who have lately immigrated, but also the Portuguese, who have been +settled in the country for centuries. + +{50} This wholesome plant grows very commonly in the Brazils. + +{53} In the southern hemisphere the seasons, as regards the months, +are exactly the contrary to what they are in the northern. For +instance, when it is winter on one side of the Equator it is summer +on the other, etc. + +{55} Maroon negroes are those negroes who have run away from their +masters. They generally collect in large bands, and retire into the +recesses of the virgin forests, whence, however, they often emerge +to steal and plunder; their depredations are not unfrequently +accompanied by murder. + +{59} The Rio Plata is one of the largest rivers in Brazil. + +{60} Other captains assured me that it was only possible for men-of- +war to pass through the Straits of Magellan, as the passage requires +a great number of hands. Every evening the ship must be brought to +an anchor, and the crew must constantly be in readiness to trim or +reef the sails, on account of the various winds which are always +springing up. + +{62} The glass sank in the day-time to 48 and 50 degrees, and at +night to 28 degrees below Zero. + +{73} All the Indians are Christians (Protestants), but I fear only +in name. + +{76} Elephantiasis, in this country, generally shows itself in the +feet, and extends up as far as the calves of the legs. These +portions of the body, when so affected, are greatly swollen, and +covered with scurf and blotches, so that they really might be taken +for those of an elephant. + +{78} I purposely abstain from mentioning the names of any of the +gentlemen at Tahiti, a piece of reserve which I think entitles me to +their thanks. + +{86} Up to the present period, Tahiti has produced nothing for +exportation, and therefore all vessels have to clear out in ballast. +The island is important to the French, as a port where their ships +in the Pacific may stop and refit. + +{91a} The expense of living at an hotel in Macao, Victoria, and +Canton is from four to six dollars a-day (16s. to 24s.). + +{91b} Carl Gutzlaff was born on the 8th of July, 1803, at Pyritz, in +Pomerania. As a boy he was distinguished for his piety and +extraordinary talent. His parents apprenticed him to a leather- +seller. In this capacity he was noted for his industry, although he +was far from contented with his position; and, in the year 1821, he +found an opportunity of presenting a poem, in which he expressed his +sentiments and wishes, to the King of Prussia. The king recognised +the talent of the struggling youth, and opened to him a career in +accordance with his inclination. In the year 1827 he proceeded as a +missionary to Batavia, and, at a later period, to Bintang, where he +applied himself with such assiduity to the study of Chinese, that in +the space of two years he knew it well enough to preach in it. In +December, 1831, he went to Macao, where he established a school for +Chinese children, and commenced his translation of the Bible into +Chinese. He founded, in conjunction with Morrison, a Society for +the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge in China, and edited a monthly +Chinese magazine, in which he endeavoured to interest the people +upon history, geography, and literature. In 1832 and 1833 he +penetrated as far as the province of Fo-Kien. + +Gutzlaff's Travels have made us acquainted with several very +important facts connected with the different Chinese dialects, and +are also of great worth to other scientific points of view. They +are especially useful in enabling us to form a correct opinion as to +the merits of the works that have lately appeared on China; and +everyone must acknowledge his rare talent, must value his immovable +fixedness of purpose, and must admire his zealous perseverance in +the cause of science, and his unshaken belief in the principles of +his religion. (Dr. Gutzlaff died in November, 1851). + +{93} All large vessels have two painted eyes let into the prow; with +these, as the Chinese believe, they are better able to find their +way. + +{95} There is only one mail a month from Europe. + +{101} When they copy a picture they divide it, like our own artists, +into squares. + +{102a} A pikul of raw opium is worth about 600 dollars (120 pounds). + +{102b} I had more especially reason to fear this latter +circumstance, as the people had given out that on the 12th or 13th +of August, at the latest, there would be a revolution, in which all +the Europeans would lose their lives. My state of mind may easily +be imagined, left, as I was, entirely alone with the Chinese +servants. + +{103} One of the ports which were opened to the English in 1842. + +{104} His costume was composed of a wide over-garment reaching to +the knees, and furnished with flowing arms, and, underneath this, +trousers of white silk. The upper garment was made of brocade of +very vivid colours and an extraordinary pattern. On his breast he +wore two birds as marks of his rank, and a necklace of precious +stones. His shoes, composed of black silk, were turned up into +points at the extremities. On his head he wore a conical velvet hat +with a gilt button. + +{105} The reader must know that these animals are looked upon as +particularly sacred. + +{108} The town of Canton is nine miles in circumference. It is the +residence of a Viceroy, and divided by walls into the Chinese and +the Tartar town. The population of the town itself is reckoned at +400,000, while it is calculated that 60,000 persons live in the +boats and schampans, and about 200,000 in the immediate vicinity. +The number of Europeans settled here is about 200. + +{110} The Chinese adopt white for mourning. + +{112} Noble Chinese ladies pass a much more secluded life than +Eastern women. They are allowed to visit one another very seldom, +and that only in well-closed litters. They have neither public +baths nor gardens in which they can meet. + +{114} The leaves of this gathering are plucked with the greatest +care by children and young people, who are provided with gloves and +are bound to pick every leaf separately. + +{116} 173 dollars the chief cabin, 117 the second (34 pounds 12s. +and 23 pounds 8s.) + +{118} These steamers carry the mails, and make the voyage from +Canton to Calcutta once a month, touching at Singapore on their way. + +{120a} Horses cannot be bred here; they have all to be imported. + +{120b} The East India Company, to which the island belongs, have a +governor and English troops here. + +{125} The mangostan is unanimously pronounced the finest fruit in +the world. + +{128} One of the four had been removed from the first cabin, because +it was asserted that he was somewhat cracked, and did not always +know what he said or did. + +{150} The finest and most costly muslin is manufactured in the +province of Dacca, and costs two rupees (4s.), or even two rupees +and a half the ell. + +{153} The hurgila, a kind of stork, that eats dead bodies, and is +frequently to be seen near the rivers in India. + +{158a} At the period of my visit there were about 782 of them. + +{158b} Rajmahal was, in the seventeenth century, the capital of +Bengal. + +{160a} Monghyr is termed the Birmingham of India, on account of its +extensive manufactories of cutlery and weapons. Its population is +about 30,000 souls. + +{160b} Patna is the capital of the province of "Bechar," and was +once celebrated for the number of its Buddhist temples. Near Patna +was situated the most famous town of ancient India, namely, +"Parlibothra." Patna contains a great many cotton and a few opium +factories. + +{161} In all Indian, Mahomedan, and in fact all countries which are +not Christian, it is a very difficult task to obtain anything like +an exact calculation of the number of inhabitants, as nothing is +more hateful to the population than such computations. + +{162} I landed with two travellers at Patna, and rode on to +Deinapore in the evening, where our steamer anchored for the night. + +{170} If a Hindoo has no son, he adopts one of his relations, in +order that he may fulfil the duties of a son at the funeral of his +adoptive father. + +{173} The dislike which the Hindoos evince towards the Europeans, is +chiefly in consequence of the latter showing no honour to the cow, +of their eating ox-flesh, and drinking brandy; and that they spit in +their houses, and even in the temples, and wash their mouths with +their fingers, etc. They call the Europeans "Parangi." This +disrespect is said to make the Hindoos dislike the Christian +religion. + +{177} Many of the more recent Indian towns were built by the +Mongolians, or were so much altered by them that they altogether +lost their original character. India was conquered by the +Mongolians as early as the tenth century. + +{183} At the time of its greatest prosperity it had 2,000,000 +inhabitants. + +{185} Some writers describe this colossal crystal as being twenty- +five feet long. + +{190} If these two towers did belong to a mosque, why were they +built of such different sizes? + +{193} The cheprasses are servants of the English government. They +wear red cloth scarfs, and a brass plate on the shoulders, with the +name of the town to which they belong engraved upon it. Each of the +higher English officials are allowed to have one or more of these +people in their service. The people consider them much superior to +the ordinary servants. + +{200} Children are generally considered as impure until the ninth +year, and are therefore not subject to the laws of their religion. + +{204} The god Vishnu is represented as a tortoise. + +{209} Although only the beginning of spring, the temperature rose +during the day as high as 95-99 degrees Fah. + +{212a} Mundsch is the royal tutor, writer, or interpreter. + +{212b} It is well known that saltpetre produces a considerable +reduction of temperature. + +{213} Indor lies 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. + +{225} Monsoons are the periodical winds which blow during one-half +the year from east to west, during the other half from west to east. + +{226} The Black Town is that part of the town in which the poorer +classes of inhabitants reside. That neither beauty nor cleanliness +are to be sought there, is a matter of course. + +{227} There are in all only 6,000 Parsees in the island of Bombay. + +{228} And yet Bombay is the principal seat of the Fire-worshippers. + +{268} This is an error: M. Botta made the first attempt to excavate +the Ninevite remains at Khorsabad. Mr. Layard had, moreover, +commenced his excavations before he received the countenance of the +British Museum authorities. See "Nineveh--the Buried City of the +East," one of the volumes of the "National Illustrated Library," for +the rectification of this and other errors in Madame Pfeiffer's +account. + +{270} The manuscripts of the journey through Hindostan as far as +Mosul miscarried for more than a year and a half. I gave them up as +lost. This was the cause of the delay in the publication of my +"Journey round the world." + +{279} I had picked up enough of the language between here and Mosul +to understand this much. + +{287} Mela is the name of the Indian religious festivals at which +thousands of people assemble. The missionaries frequently travel +hundreds of miles to them in order to preach to the people. + +{305} Tradition says that the country about Erivan is that part of +the earth which was first of all peopled. Noah and his family dwelt +here, both before and after the deluge; the Garden of Eden is also +said to have been situated here. Erivan was formerly called Terva, +and was the chief city of Armenia. Not far from Erivan lies the +chief sacred relic of the Armenian Christians--the cloister Ecs- +miazim. The church is simple in construction; the pillars, seventy- +three feet high, consist of blocks of stone joined together. In the +Treasury were, formerly, two of the nails with which Christ was +crucified, the lance with which he was stabbed in the side, and, +lastly, a seamless garment of Christ. It is asserted that in the +centre of the church is the spot where Noah, after his delivery, +erected an altar and offered sacrifice. Besides these, the church +is in the possession of innumerable important relics. + +{308} This is carried to such an extent that if a traveller has his +horses already put to, and is in the carriage, and an officer +arrives, the horses are taken off and given to the latter. + +{309} Georgia was called Iberia by the ancients. Formerly, this +country extended from Tauris and Erzerum, as far as the Tanais, and +was called Albania. It is a country of mountains. The river Kurry, +also called Cyrus, flows through the midst. On this river the +famous conqueror of Persia, Cyrus, was exposed in his childhood. +Tiflis was formerly one of the finest towns of Persia. + +{312} His wives I dare not speak of, as the Mussulmen consider this +an affront. + +{314} The River Ribon, also called Rione, is considered to be one of +the four rivers of Paradise, and was known by the name of Pison. +Its waters were formerly held sacred. On account of the number of +trunks of trees, it is unnavigable for large ships. + +{320a} The Circassians are so wild and warlike that no one dare +venture into the interior of the country. Little is known of their +habits, customs, or religion. Bordering on Circassia are the +Atkans, who inhabit the coast country between Mingrelia and +Circassia, and are also wild and given to plunder. + +{320b} Large plains covered with short grass. + +{321} Mithridates lived in Pantikapaum. The hill at Kertsch is +called to this day "Mithridates' Seat." During the excavations in +it, which have been made since 1832, many remains were found, such +as funeral urns, implements of sacrifice, Grecian inscriptions, +handsome figures, and groups. + +{330a} Constantinople is not lighted--whoever goes out without a +lantern is considered suspicious, and taken to the next watch-house. + +{330b} The streets of Constantinople are narrow, full of holes, and +uneven, so that carriages cannot be taken everywhere and people are +obliged to manage with small fire-engines carried by four men. + +{335} Here, where I arrived about four weeks after leaving Odessa, +the sun appeared as hot as with us in July. The vegetation was +greatly in want of rain, and the leaves were almost dying from the +heat; while in Odessa they were already killed by the cold. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD*** + + +******* This file should be named 11039.txt or 11039.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/0/3/11039 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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